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"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='anthony-bourdain' num=\"2\" label='More News About Anthony Bourdain'].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article was updated November 18, 2019.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yesterday, the team behind Anthony Bourdain’s award-winning show \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> decided to update the branding on their \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook page\u003c/a> — which now does not feature the iconic host and all posts have been deleted except one uploaded around the time the branding was changed featuring \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/photos/a.181838311261/10156360860706262/?type=3&theater\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a photo of him\u003c/a>. (The name was also changed from \u003cem>Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations \u003c/em>to simply \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.) For a logo redesign, the blowback from the \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> audience online was swift — and scathing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain, who died in June 2018, was known for his adventures in global cuisine, and his drive to change perceptions about local foods with his straightforward, honest observations. Thanks to his shows \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em>, his blog and his books, he visited and supported many communities of marginalized people — making him a beloved figure both within the food industry and the wider public imagination. Bourdain’s standing may go some way to explaining the negative fan reaction to the new-look \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” As people have called out, the colors and design don’t remind viewers of Bourdain himself — or even much resemble the show he left behind. The day after the new look was revealed, fans noticed \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/posts/10162819925475232?comment_id=10162821227250232&reply_comment_id=10162821517735232\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">they could no longer find the Facebook Page\u003c/a> — it is uncertain whether it was deleted or unpublished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1572\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-160x252.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-800x1258.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-768x1207.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-763x1200.png 763w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” \u003ccite>('No Reservations' Facebook Page)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bright colors and the plump font appear to be an antithesis of Anthony Bourdain and his hunger for all of the things he talked about around food: the people, the politics or the culture. Instead, it puts consumption in the forefront with hot dogs, pizzas, generic-looking chocolate chip cookies and more — hardly the international foods Bourdain celebrated so much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bourdain appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/10/27/499308031/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR’s Fresh Air in 2016\u003c/a>, he said, \"I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do you think of \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>’ new look? Tell us on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KQEDcheckplease\">Twitter\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article was updated November 18, 2019.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yesterday, the team behind Anthony Bourdain’s award-winning show \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> decided to update the branding on their \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook page\u003c/a> — which now does not feature the iconic host and all posts have been deleted except one uploaded around the time the branding was changed featuring \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/noreservations/photos/a.181838311261/10156360860706262/?type=3&theater\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a photo of him\u003c/a>. (The name was also changed from \u003cem>Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations \u003c/em>to simply \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.) For a logo redesign, the blowback from the \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> audience online was swift — and scathing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain, who died in June 2018, was known for his adventures in global cuisine, and his drive to change perceptions about local foods with his straightforward, honest observations. Thanks to his shows \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em>, his blog and his books, he visited and supported many communities of marginalized people — making him a beloved figure both within the food industry and the wider public imagination. Bourdain’s standing may go some way to explaining the negative fan reaction to the new-look \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” As people have called out, the colors and design don’t remind viewers of Bourdain himself — or even much resemble the show he left behind. The day after the new look was revealed, fans noticed \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/posts/10162819925475232?comment_id=10162821227250232&reply_comment_id=10162821517735232\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">they could no longer find the Facebook Page\u003c/a> — it is uncertain whether it was deleted or unpublished.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1572\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM.png 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-160x252.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-800x1258.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-768x1207.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Screen-Shot-2019-11-14-at-2.02.36-PM-763x1200.png 763w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Comments about the artwork from Facebook users on the show’s Page have termed the redesign “gross,” “nonsensical,” and “a disgrace.” \u003ccite>('No Reservations' Facebook Page)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bright colors and the plump font appear to be an antithesis of Anthony Bourdain and his hunger for all of the things he talked about around food: the people, the politics or the culture. Instead, it puts consumption in the forefront with hot dogs, pizzas, generic-looking chocolate chip cookies and more — hardly the international foods Bourdain celebrated so much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Bourdain appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/10/27/499308031/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR’s Fresh Air in 2016\u003c/a>, he said, \"I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What do you think of \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em>’ new look? Tell us on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/KQEDcheckplease/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Facebook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KQEDcheckplease\">Twitter\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>During opening hours at San Jose restaurant \u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/a>, more than a dozen instruments combine to create a soundtrack of ragtime and early 20th century jazz. But don’t expect to find musicians seated at the piano benches or rosining their violin bows. Orchestria’s vintage pianos, violins, pipes, bells and drums make music all on their own.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134907,bayareabites_133626' label='More Food History Articles']\u003cbr>\n“Quirky” is the word most often used to describe this Continental European-style restaurant in San Jose’s SoFA District, says owner Mark Williams, but it’s not just the stable of mechanical music machines that encircle the dining room and stand sentinel on the upstairs balcony that has earned the restaurant its moniker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brick-walled, turn-of-the-century warehouse is full of nods to early Americana, from a soda fountain churning out Prohibition-era fizzes like black forest phosphates and raspberry ambrosias to an old-school phone booth which patrons are encouraged to use for any cell phone chatter. Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls and Art Deco posters and Tiffany-style lamps are arranged throughout the space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135306\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135306\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg\" alt=\"A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s the self-playing music machines, though — the player pianos, the Wurlitzers, the phonograph jukeboxes — that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though relatively rare today, for a brief period in the early 20th century, bars and restaurants everywhere were stocked with a mechanical music machine. It was the first time in history that recorded music became accessible to all. Now that same music, all-but-forgotten novelty songs and syncopated dance tunes that were hits in their day, are resurrected within the walls of the Orchestria.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Music enters a new era with the help of the earliest computers\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135313\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135313\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg\" alt=\"It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the late 19th century, music only existed when musicians played it. So when early player pianos, or Pianolas, and phonographs began to appear, they were a massive technological shift. The first \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/ppworks.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fully-pneumatic commercial player piano\u003c/a> arrived in the 1890s. Using pressurized air, the piano contained concealed mechanisms that turned a paper roll printed with perforated holes. The distribution of the holes and the speed of the turning roll determined the tone and melody of the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the bigger machines could play rolls that contained up to ten songs, strung together one after another, while smaller pianos could only play rolls containing a single song at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After World War I, the popularity of the player piano skyrocketed, ushering in the “Jazz Age” of the 1920s. “The early hot music was the cakewalks and those morphed into ragtime,” explains Williams, “Jazz started coming in the mid-teens and by the ‘30s they were getting into swing.” But along with a change in musical style came a change in technology. As quickly as the pianola had risen, it fell back into obscurity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Basically this era was dead by ‘31,” Williams continues, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/pphist.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">due to\u003c/a> the one-two punch thrown by the crash of the industry along with the stock market in 1929 and the rise of new methods of electrical amplification and radio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades America’s leftover Pianolas gathered dust in basements and attics and warehouses around the country but, following the 1973 release of \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sting\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>The Sting\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a Paul Newman and Robert Redford film with a ragtime soundtrack, collectors developed a renewed interest in the vintage machines along with early jukeboxes like the Deca Disc phonograph which contained five records and the Electramuse which could play up to ten records. Williams was among them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small-time collector with a few player pianos to his name, Williams was inspired to enter the restaurant world in order to create a showcase for the musical technology that was once an essential aspect of eating out. An electrical engineer by trade, a job at which he still works 40 hours a week, Williams had become jaded with the start-up culture of Silicon Valley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All your successes are so fleeting,” he says.“The point of the [restaurant] was to acknowledge that all the stuff you’re doing now, something preceded it. This technology, these were the early computers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135307\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135307\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg\" alt=\"Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.orchestriapalmcourt.com/opcabout.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mechanical instruments and players\u003c/a> that now call the Orchestria Palm Court home have come from all over. Some, like the Imhof & Mukle “Commandant 2” Orchstrian (circa 1920), a high-backed wooden beauty with piano and violin pipes and percussion instruments hidden inside, were donated. Others were purchased by Williams and his partner. The Violano-Virtuoso Player Violin, a highly-advanced invention dating to around 1925 and Williams’ favorite machine, was acquired from the widow of a hobby collector in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pianolas can be purchased cheaply Williams says — you can even find them on Craigslist for free — but restoring them to playing condition is often a complex and expensive task.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Classic foods from a simpler time\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135311\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135311\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg\" alt=\"A Black Forest Phosphate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"3411\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-160x284.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-800x1421.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-768x1364.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-1020x1812.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-675x1200.jpg 675w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Black Forest Phosphate \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Orchestria Palm Court Restaurant)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Music may be the soul of the Orchestria Palm Court, but it’s the restaurant’s food that is at its heart. Orchestria produces rich, classic European dishes like Austrian goulash, chicken breast saltimbocca, and butternut-Marsala pasta made with organic produce and dairy, free-range chicken, and grass-fed beef. There’s no microwave or deep fryer in the kitchen and the menu changes weekly to feature fresh, seasonal foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food is, in fact, so important that, when the restaurant was struggling to fill its seats after opening in 2012, Williams chose to cut its hours to two evenings a week rather than compromise ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135308\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg\" alt=\"Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beer and wine are also on order but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. “In the ‘20s, soda fountains were all the rage because of Prohibition. They came up with all sorts of varieties and the stuff tastes so different than what you get out of a can. We’ve lost a lot there,” Williams says. Indeed, this may be the only place in the Bay Area where crafted sodas like the poppy dew, a sweet, tart orange drink, and the New York-style chocolate phosphate still appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From its carefully crafted menu to its lovingly restored 1910 digs, there’s a nostalgic authenticity to the Orchestria Palm Court. The 4-bit computer code technology used in the Pianolas and early jukeboxes here didn’t just form the foundation of early recorded music, but the foundation of early Silicon Valley, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, while the rest of the Bay Area is looking for the next big breakthrough, Williams is happy with his vintage machines. They’ll keep singing for their supper every Friday and Saturday night for the foreseeable future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Website\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/eNBWZDPzJixxenYu7\">27 E William St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Jose 95112\u003cbr>\nOpen Friday & Saturday, 5:45-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At San Jose's Orchestria Palm Court, time stands still with nods to early Americana like Prohibition-era fizzes and a beloved collection of self-playing music machines.",
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"description": "At San Jose's Orchestria Palm Court, time stands still with nods to early Americana like Prohibition-era fizzes and a beloved collection of self-playing music machines.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>During opening hours at San Jose restaurant \u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/a>, more than a dozen instruments combine to create a soundtrack of ragtime and early 20th century jazz. But don’t expect to find musicians seated at the piano benches or rosining their violin bows. Orchestria’s vintage pianos, violins, pipes, bells and drums make music all on their own.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“Quirky” is the word most often used to describe this Continental European-style restaurant in San Jose’s SoFA District, says owner Mark Williams, but it’s not just the stable of mechanical music machines that encircle the dining room and stand sentinel on the upstairs balcony that has earned the restaurant its moniker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brick-walled, turn-of-the-century warehouse is full of nods to early Americana, from a soda fountain churning out Prohibition-era fizzes like black forest phosphates and raspberry ambrosias to an old-school phone booth which patrons are encouraged to use for any cell phone chatter. Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls and Art Deco posters and Tiffany-style lamps are arranged throughout the space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135306\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135306\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg\" alt=\"A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s the self-playing music machines, though — the player pianos, the Wurlitzers, the phonograph jukeboxes — that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though relatively rare today, for a brief period in the early 20th century, bars and restaurants everywhere were stocked with a mechanical music machine. It was the first time in history that recorded music became accessible to all. Now that same music, all-but-forgotten novelty songs and syncopated dance tunes that were hits in their day, are resurrected within the walls of the Orchestria.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Music enters a new era with the help of the earliest computers\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135313\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135313\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg\" alt=\"It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the late 19th century, music only existed when musicians played it. So when early player pianos, or Pianolas, and phonographs began to appear, they were a massive technological shift. The first \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/ppworks.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fully-pneumatic commercial player piano\u003c/a> arrived in the 1890s. Using pressurized air, the piano contained concealed mechanisms that turned a paper roll printed with perforated holes. The distribution of the holes and the speed of the turning roll determined the tone and melody of the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the bigger machines could play rolls that contained up to ten songs, strung together one after another, while smaller pianos could only play rolls containing a single song at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After World War I, the popularity of the player piano skyrocketed, ushering in the “Jazz Age” of the 1920s. “The early hot music was the cakewalks and those morphed into ragtime,” explains Williams, “Jazz started coming in the mid-teens and by the ‘30s they were getting into swing.” But along with a change in musical style came a change in technology. As quickly as the pianola had risen, it fell back into obscurity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Basically this era was dead by ‘31,” Williams continues, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/pphist.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">due to\u003c/a> the one-two punch thrown by the crash of the industry along with the stock market in 1929 and the rise of new methods of electrical amplification and radio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades America’s leftover Pianolas gathered dust in basements and attics and warehouses around the country but, following the 1973 release of \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sting\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>The Sting\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a Paul Newman and Robert Redford film with a ragtime soundtrack, collectors developed a renewed interest in the vintage machines along with early jukeboxes like the Deca Disc phonograph which contained five records and the Electramuse which could play up to ten records. Williams was among them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small-time collector with a few player pianos to his name, Williams was inspired to enter the restaurant world in order to create a showcase for the musical technology that was once an essential aspect of eating out. An electrical engineer by trade, a job at which he still works 40 hours a week, Williams had become jaded with the start-up culture of Silicon Valley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All your successes are so fleeting,” he says.“The point of the [restaurant] was to acknowledge that all the stuff you’re doing now, something preceded it. This technology, these were the early computers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135307\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135307\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg\" alt=\"Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.orchestriapalmcourt.com/opcabout.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mechanical instruments and players\u003c/a> that now call the Orchestria Palm Court home have come from all over. Some, like the Imhof & Mukle “Commandant 2” Orchstrian (circa 1920), a high-backed wooden beauty with piano and violin pipes and percussion instruments hidden inside, were donated. Others were purchased by Williams and his partner. The Violano-Virtuoso Player Violin, a highly-advanced invention dating to around 1925 and Williams’ favorite machine, was acquired from the widow of a hobby collector in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pianolas can be purchased cheaply Williams says — you can even find them on Craigslist for free — but restoring them to playing condition is often a complex and expensive task.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Classic foods from a simpler time\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135311\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135311\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg\" alt=\"A Black Forest Phosphate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"3411\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-160x284.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-800x1421.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-768x1364.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-1020x1812.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-675x1200.jpg 675w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Black Forest Phosphate \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Orchestria Palm Court Restaurant)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Music may be the soul of the Orchestria Palm Court, but it’s the restaurant’s food that is at its heart. Orchestria produces rich, classic European dishes like Austrian goulash, chicken breast saltimbocca, and butternut-Marsala pasta made with organic produce and dairy, free-range chicken, and grass-fed beef. There’s no microwave or deep fryer in the kitchen and the menu changes weekly to feature fresh, seasonal foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food is, in fact, so important that, when the restaurant was struggling to fill its seats after opening in 2012, Williams chose to cut its hours to two evenings a week rather than compromise ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135308\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg\" alt=\"Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beer and wine are also on order but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. “In the ‘20s, soda fountains were all the rage because of Prohibition. They came up with all sorts of varieties and the stuff tastes so different than what you get out of a can. We’ve lost a lot there,” Williams says. Indeed, this may be the only place in the Bay Area where crafted sodas like the poppy dew, a sweet, tart orange drink, and the New York-style chocolate phosphate still appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From its carefully crafted menu to its lovingly restored 1910 digs, there’s a nostalgic authenticity to the Orchestria Palm Court. The 4-bit computer code technology used in the Pianolas and early jukeboxes here didn’t just form the foundation of early recorded music, but the foundation of early Silicon Valley, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, while the rest of the Bay Area is looking for the next big breakthrough, Williams is happy with his vintage machines. They’ll keep singing for their supper every Friday and Saturday night for the foreseeable future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Website\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/eNBWZDPzJixxenYu7\">27 E William St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Jose 95112\u003cbr>\nOpen Friday & Saturday, 5:45-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Keep your \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13865555/thirty-seconds-to-mars-jared-leto-started-a-cult-because-of-course-he-did\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Jareds\u003c/a>, your \u003ca href=\"https://www.thefader.com/2019/09/24/a-history-of-sunday-service-kanye-west\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Kanyes\u003c/a> and your \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/keanu-reeves-is-too-good-for-this-world\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Keanus\u003c/a> (I could actually never forsake Keanu Reeves, but I’m trying to make a point here), because this Halloween, the only idol I'm considering following is good old Guy Fieri, a Bay Area treasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People love to dunk on the Mayor of Flavortown, but he deserves some respect for wholeheartedly, albeit comically, enjoying every sip and bite he takes on-screen. He also \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13811485/guy-fieri-brings-barbecue-smoker-to-santa-rosa-fire-evacuation-center\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">helped feed evacuees of fires in 2017\u003c/a>, and is at it again with the ongoing Kincade fire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite his haters, Fieri can usually be found in high spirits, and his Twitter account proves that he can take the jokes and even dish some towards himself. This Halloween, his nod to his influence on pop culture—and, truly, giving us a gift in the process—is a thread for fans to share their best Guy Fieri costumes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The people have not disappointed. Here are some favorites out of the many Guy Fieri costumes his 3.3 million followers have shared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's start with this one, where the user @RawBeautyKristi did her own classic Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives opener:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/RawBeautyKristi/status/1189309993885020162?s=09\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this one, an entire group of people went so far as dressing up as Fieri, and then went on a party bus. Where was our invite?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/maus_14/status/1189284101188136961?s=09\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A group of Guy Fieris slow-mo walking into the party with sliders in hand? Dynamite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/mirandalyle/status/1189310074067521541?s=09\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also some bomb-dot-com Photoshop entries that would make Fieri proud. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/mkimis128/status/1189362398752395264?s=09\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even the kids are getting into it:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/kyldrea/status/1189287042167070720?s=09\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Say what you will about Fieri's bleached tips, silly lingo and exuberant eating style, but he's definitely a good sport: he says he'll retweet his favorite costumes until Oct. 31. See \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/GuyFieri/status/1189282695647518720\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the full thread\u003c/a> for yourself. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Keep your \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13865555/thirty-seconds-to-mars-jared-leto-started-a-cult-because-of-course-he-did\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Jareds\u003c/a>, your \u003ca href=\"https://www.thefader.com/2019/09/24/a-history-of-sunday-service-kanye-west\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Kanyes\u003c/a> and your \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/keanu-reeves-is-too-good-for-this-world\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Keanus\u003c/a> (I could actually never forsake Keanu Reeves, but I’m trying to make a point here), because this Halloween, the only idol I'm considering following is good old Guy Fieri, a Bay Area treasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People love to dunk on the Mayor of Flavortown, but he deserves some respect for wholeheartedly, albeit comically, enjoying every sip and bite he takes on-screen. He also \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13811485/guy-fieri-brings-barbecue-smoker-to-santa-rosa-fire-evacuation-center\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">helped feed evacuees of fires in 2017\u003c/a>, and is at it again with the ongoing Kincade fire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite his haters, Fieri can usually be found in high spirits, and his Twitter account proves that he can take the jokes and even dish some towards himself. This Halloween, his nod to his influence on pop culture—and, truly, giving us a gift in the process—is a thread for fans to share their best Guy Fieri costumes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The people have not disappointed. Here are some favorites out of the many Guy Fieri costumes his 3.3 million followers have shared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's start with this one, where the user @RawBeautyKristi did her own classic Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives opener:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Say what you will about Fieri's bleached tips, silly lingo and exuberant eating style, but he's definitely a good sport: he says he'll retweet his favorite costumes until Oct. 31. See \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/GuyFieri/status/1189282695647518720\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">the full thread\u003c/a> for yourself. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too",
"title": "The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_129463,bayareabites_101583' label='More Taco Stories']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late L.A. Times restaurant critic, Jonathan Gold used to say about tacos, “...when we move to New York or Paris, it is tacos that haunt our dreams; when we are hungry after a night of dancing, it is the taqueros who nourish us, who appear precisely where and when we need them the most.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gold was right, and if he were alive today, he would be incredibly proud to see that \u003ca href=\"https://www.lataco.com/a-cold-email-from-a-food-obsessed-teen-why-i-owe-everything-to-jonathan-gold/\">his former restaurant scout, Javier Cabral\u003c/a> (now editor of L.A. Taco) became an associate producer and taco scout behind the recently premiered Netflix series, \u003cem>Las Crónicas del Taco\u003c/em> (Taco Chronicles). The show takes viewers on a journey through various parts of Mexico, to dissect how tacos such as asada, al pastor, carnitas, barbacoa, canasta, and guisados land on your plate, their history, and the labor of love behind them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134410\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/las-cronicas-del-taco-concept-art-e1565712544229.jpg\" alt=\"Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' was released in July 2019.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Netflix)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cabral became involved with the project thanks to the creator of the series, Mexican producer, Pablo Cruz. For those not familiar with his work, Cruz is behind projects such as the movie \u003cem>Miss Bala\u003c/em> starring Gina Rodriguez, the AMC TV show, \u003cem>Fear The Walking Dead\u003c/em>, and the Spanish series, \u003cem>Luis Miguel\u003c/em> (now streaming on Netflix).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We had an instant creative food chemistry, we both love food in a very obsessive and human level,” Cabral said. “We love the stories of the people behind it, especially now in this day and age where that stuff really matters for political and ethical reasons.” The two initially met years prior over Korean style smoked duck bbq at a restaurant in L.A.'s Koreatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their eye, not only for the delectable visions of the tacos in each episode but also the personal stories behind it, genuinely sets the series apart from others currently streaming on the platform. And so, Cabral set off on a year-long mission to find the taqueros and their respective taquerias that would ultimately land in the show. The hashtag \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/tacosforpablo/\">#tacosforpablo\u003c/a> on Instagram showcases his journey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.instagram.com/p/Bv5-jg0BZNT/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What they wanted was for viewers in both Mexico and the United States to feel connected to each episode. Living in L.A., Cabral captured noticeable cultural differences between the way tacos are seen in Mexico versus here in the states. “In the U.S., tacos are taken for granted, its deliciousness, and cost-effectiveness,” Cabral said of some people expecting a taco to be cheap. “In Mexico, tacos are just tacos, people just love them. Tacos are celebrated as a way of life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Tacos are a collective experience,” Cruz said. “Mexicans don’t take them for granted.” For Cruz, tacos are unequivocal, the maximum representative of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working on the series, he also wanted to avoid the Taco Chronicles from being seen from an outside perspective. Instead of celebrity chefs, each episode is narrated by the taco itself thanks to the work of voiceover actors. “We wanted to give each type of taco a personality,” Cruz said of the distinctive voice narrating each episode. The goal, Cruz added was to showcase the actual taqueros. “There’s no one better to talk about their creative food journey, than the taqueros themselves.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process taqueros work through—how they develop their craft—is something he knows doesn’t only happen in Mexico, and can also be seen here in the states. His favorite place comes out of the neighborhood in L.A. where he resides. “Just imagine the story, an immigrant family from Oaxaca, they come [to the states] and set up their taco stand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Series creator Cruz said, “the taco is an art, [and] this series pays homage to tradition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, there are countless similar stories of perseverance. Some of the best food you have probably eaten comes thanks to the labor of immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134412\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Business partners Leonel Oblea and Victor Guzman in front of their taco truck, La Santa Torta. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For business partners Leonel (Leo) Oblea and Victor Guzman, opening the taco truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lasantatorta/?hl=en\">La Santa Torta\u003c/a> where they specialize in Jalisco style birria and consome was a result of wrongdoings by the Trump Administration. Both Oblea and Guzman are Dreamers (a name given to young adults who came to the States as kids at no fault of their own). Both are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nilc.org/issues/daca/\">DACA\u003c/a> recipients (the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals is a policy implemented by the Obama Administration which granted Dreamers the opportunity to apply for a work permit).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March of 2018, the program was rescinded by the then Attorney General Jeff Sessions. It meant that thousands of Dreamers were put back in limbo, and many whose work permits expired that year would lose their status. Oblea and Guzman were two of those Dreamers who lost their jobs after their work permits expired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134419\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134419\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Oblea, the labor of love behind the food at La Santa Torta is deeply personal for him. “My goal [with my food] is to make people feel like they are back in Jalisco,” Oblea who is unable to return to Mexico said. Thanks to a ruling in the U.S. district court in the District of Columbia, he and Guzman are able to renew their work permits once more (DACA recipients who previously held a work permit can submit the $495 fee to renew their two-year work permit).\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_132646,bayareabites_118885' align='left' label='Eat More Tacos']\u003cbr>\nIn the year-and-half, since they opened, Oblea and Guzman already have a second truck, and their goal is to expand to a brick and mortar in Oakland. They see their food and service as a way to help those who are much like them and cannot travel back to Mexico. “Our spices come from the mercado de abastos in Guadalajara,” Oblea said. “My grandma goes out there and brings us back chiles de Yahualica which we use in our salsa, and spices for the birria.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our food is comfort food,” Oblea said of making his customers feel close to home. “It tastes like Mexico, it takes them back [in the form a taco de birria].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134413\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg\" alt=\"Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dominic Prado)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not far from the Jack London Square neighborhood where you can find La Santa Torta, another taco truck is gaining notoriety and a cult following. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselultimobaile/?hl=en\">Tacos El Último Baile\u003c/a> started off as a taco stand, much like Pablo Cruz’s favorite place in L.A.. Back in 2016, Dominic Prado, the taquero behind it, started out of the outdoor space of The Legionnaire Saloon, a bar in the Uptown neighborhood of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Prado is the proud owner of an actual truck. Most weekends, you’ll catch him at “23rd and Telegraph,” as he often advertises on the business’s Instagram account. Other times, you might see the truck outside of Bandcamp off Broadway, but still in the same vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Prado who spent time in Mexico, the best tacos al pastor he’s ever tried are from the Mexican state of Morelos in the city of Cuernavaca. The best asada out of the many places here in the States and in Mexico where he has tried tacos? “In Tijuana, but also, Calexico has better tacos than Mexicali,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prado takes pride in making the asada and chicken meat al carbon. A process which basically means grilling meat over mesquite charcoal. “Not all charcoal is the same,” Prado said. He has a favorite type which is a quintessential part of his secrets behind how he grills the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134414\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area taquero scene is such that instead of competitiveness, you’ll often see taqueros like Miguel Escobedo of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alpastorpapi415/?hl=en\">Al Pastor Papi\u003c/a> rooting for other comrades and posting pictures of them on his social media. \"Those are the homies,” he said of La Santa Torta and Tacos El Último Baile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Escobedo is a recognized name and face in the Bay Area food scene. For many years, he was part-owner of a popular Mexican restaurant in San Francisco. In 2012, he competed in the Food Network show \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Escobedo also competed in \u003cem>Throwdown with Bobby Flay\u003c/em>, where his triple threat burrito was the champion against the Food Network chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before his departure from the restaurant in San Francisco, Escobedo had been looking into incorporating tacos al pastor into the menu, but he also wanted his tacos to represent their pure form. “I wanted to go back home and keep it one hundred percent real,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134415\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134415\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg\" alt=\"A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to do this, his first order of business was to order a trompo, the vertical grill in which the pork meat is slowly cooked. “When I received the trompo, and I opened and touched it, I felt like when I was 14 and received my first turntables,” the now retired formerly known DJ MR.E said. He knew he was onto something with his soon to be Al Pastor Papi taco truck.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_117626,bayareabites_103206' label='Make Your Own Tacos']\u003cbr>\nIn order to bring a piece of Mexico City (where he was born) back with him and make his al pastor tacos a success, Escobedo knew had to go back there to delve into what it would take to preserve the culture of this now ancestral dish. “I needed to get some street game,” he said of traveling to Mexico to talk to local taqueros but also to take a crash course at the Instituto de Gastronomía México.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, he was able to learn the mother recipe of al pastor from one of the chefs teaching the course. “He [the chef] solidified my sentiments that this is where I needed to be,” Escobedo said, and everything he learned about the making of the al pastor meat was brought back to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134416\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134416\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1441\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1020x766.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1200x901.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Escobedo takes pride in each taco he serves, and much like the owners of La Santa Torta, he sees the gleaming faces of chilangos (a name given to those from Mexico City) who come by Al Pastor Papi to gets tacos and with each bite feel like they are back home, “the usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lack of taquerias equipped with trompos is partly to blame for the lack of authentic tacos al pastor in the Bay Area. Another hurdle is an ordinance with the health department which doesn’t allow for the meat to be sliced off the trompo and served immediately on the tortilla. The meat that goes in the tacos has to first be put on the flat top, then inside the tortilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This added step deviates from the original way of serving tacos al pastor like they do back in Mexico City. “I want to lead the fight in educating the health department [inspectors] on what can be done to be able to get the meat right off the trompo,” Escobedo said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134409\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg\" alt=\"Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
"disqusIdentifier": "134397 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134397",
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"excerpt": "Just as tacos are honored in 'Las Crónicas Del Taco', taqueros in the Bay Area are sharing and celebrating their own stories and traditions through their own taco offerings.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late L.A. Times restaurant critic, Jonathan Gold used to say about tacos, “...when we move to New York or Paris, it is tacos that haunt our dreams; when we are hungry after a night of dancing, it is the taqueros who nourish us, who appear precisely where and when we need them the most.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gold was right, and if he were alive today, he would be incredibly proud to see that \u003ca href=\"https://www.lataco.com/a-cold-email-from-a-food-obsessed-teen-why-i-owe-everything-to-jonathan-gold/\">his former restaurant scout, Javier Cabral\u003c/a> (now editor of L.A. Taco) became an associate producer and taco scout behind the recently premiered Netflix series, \u003cem>Las Crónicas del Taco\u003c/em> (Taco Chronicles). The show takes viewers on a journey through various parts of Mexico, to dissect how tacos such as asada, al pastor, carnitas, barbacoa, canasta, and guisados land on your plate, their history, and the labor of love behind them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134410\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/las-cronicas-del-taco-concept-art-e1565712544229.jpg\" alt=\"Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' was released in July 2019.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Netflix)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cabral became involved with the project thanks to the creator of the series, Mexican producer, Pablo Cruz. For those not familiar with his work, Cruz is behind projects such as the movie \u003cem>Miss Bala\u003c/em> starring Gina Rodriguez, the AMC TV show, \u003cem>Fear The Walking Dead\u003c/em>, and the Spanish series, \u003cem>Luis Miguel\u003c/em> (now streaming on Netflix).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We had an instant creative food chemistry, we both love food in a very obsessive and human level,” Cabral said. “We love the stories of the people behind it, especially now in this day and age where that stuff really matters for political and ethical reasons.” The two initially met years prior over Korean style smoked duck bbq at a restaurant in L.A.'s Koreatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their eye, not only for the delectable visions of the tacos in each episode but also the personal stories behind it, genuinely sets the series apart from others currently streaming on the platform. And so, Cabral set off on a year-long mission to find the taqueros and their respective taquerias that would ultimately land in the show. The hashtag \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/tacosforpablo/\">#tacosforpablo\u003c/a> on Instagram showcases his journey.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What they wanted was for viewers in both Mexico and the United States to feel connected to each episode. Living in L.A., Cabral captured noticeable cultural differences between the way tacos are seen in Mexico versus here in the states. “In the U.S., tacos are taken for granted, its deliciousness, and cost-effectiveness,” Cabral said of some people expecting a taco to be cheap. “In Mexico, tacos are just tacos, people just love them. Tacos are celebrated as a way of life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Tacos are a collective experience,” Cruz said. “Mexicans don’t take them for granted.” For Cruz, tacos are unequivocal, the maximum representative of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working on the series, he also wanted to avoid the Taco Chronicles from being seen from an outside perspective. Instead of celebrity chefs, each episode is narrated by the taco itself thanks to the work of voiceover actors. “We wanted to give each type of taco a personality,” Cruz said of the distinctive voice narrating each episode. The goal, Cruz added was to showcase the actual taqueros. “There’s no one better to talk about their creative food journey, than the taqueros themselves.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process taqueros work through—how they develop their craft—is something he knows doesn’t only happen in Mexico, and can also be seen here in the states. His favorite place comes out of the neighborhood in L.A. where he resides. “Just imagine the story, an immigrant family from Oaxaca, they come [to the states] and set up their taco stand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Series creator Cruz said, “the taco is an art, [and] this series pays homage to tradition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, there are countless similar stories of perseverance. Some of the best food you have probably eaten comes thanks to the labor of immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134412\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Business partners Leonel Oblea and Victor Guzman in front of their taco truck, La Santa Torta. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For business partners Leonel (Leo) Oblea and Victor Guzman, opening the taco truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lasantatorta/?hl=en\">La Santa Torta\u003c/a> where they specialize in Jalisco style birria and consome was a result of wrongdoings by the Trump Administration. Both Oblea and Guzman are Dreamers (a name given to young adults who came to the States as kids at no fault of their own). Both are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nilc.org/issues/daca/\">DACA\u003c/a> recipients (the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals is a policy implemented by the Obama Administration which granted Dreamers the opportunity to apply for a work permit).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March of 2018, the program was rescinded by the then Attorney General Jeff Sessions. It meant that thousands of Dreamers were put back in limbo, and many whose work permits expired that year would lose their status. Oblea and Guzman were two of those Dreamers who lost their jobs after their work permits expired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134419\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134419\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Oblea, the labor of love behind the food at La Santa Torta is deeply personal for him. “My goal [with my food] is to make people feel like they are back in Jalisco,” Oblea who is unable to return to Mexico said. Thanks to a ruling in the U.S. district court in the District of Columbia, he and Guzman are able to renew their work permits once more (DACA recipients who previously held a work permit can submit the $495 fee to renew their two-year work permit).\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIn the year-and-half, since they opened, Oblea and Guzman already have a second truck, and their goal is to expand to a brick and mortar in Oakland. They see their food and service as a way to help those who are much like them and cannot travel back to Mexico. “Our spices come from the mercado de abastos in Guadalajara,” Oblea said. “My grandma goes out there and brings us back chiles de Yahualica which we use in our salsa, and spices for the birria.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our food is comfort food,” Oblea said of making his customers feel close to home. “It tastes like Mexico, it takes them back [in the form a taco de birria].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134413\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg\" alt=\"Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dominic Prado)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not far from the Jack London Square neighborhood where you can find La Santa Torta, another taco truck is gaining notoriety and a cult following. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselultimobaile/?hl=en\">Tacos El Último Baile\u003c/a> started off as a taco stand, much like Pablo Cruz’s favorite place in L.A.. Back in 2016, Dominic Prado, the taquero behind it, started out of the outdoor space of The Legionnaire Saloon, a bar in the Uptown neighborhood of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Prado is the proud owner of an actual truck. Most weekends, you’ll catch him at “23rd and Telegraph,” as he often advertises on the business’s Instagram account. Other times, you might see the truck outside of Bandcamp off Broadway, but still in the same vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Prado who spent time in Mexico, the best tacos al pastor he’s ever tried are from the Mexican state of Morelos in the city of Cuernavaca. The best asada out of the many places here in the States and in Mexico where he has tried tacos? “In Tijuana, but also, Calexico has better tacos than Mexicali,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prado takes pride in making the asada and chicken meat al carbon. A process which basically means grilling meat over mesquite charcoal. “Not all charcoal is the same,” Prado said. He has a favorite type which is a quintessential part of his secrets behind how he grills the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134414\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area taquero scene is such that instead of competitiveness, you’ll often see taqueros like Miguel Escobedo of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alpastorpapi415/?hl=en\">Al Pastor Papi\u003c/a> rooting for other comrades and posting pictures of them on his social media. \"Those are the homies,” he said of La Santa Torta and Tacos El Último Baile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Escobedo is a recognized name and face in the Bay Area food scene. For many years, he was part-owner of a popular Mexican restaurant in San Francisco. In 2012, he competed in the Food Network show \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Escobedo also competed in \u003cem>Throwdown with Bobby Flay\u003c/em>, where his triple threat burrito was the champion against the Food Network chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before his departure from the restaurant in San Francisco, Escobedo had been looking into incorporating tacos al pastor into the menu, but he also wanted his tacos to represent their pure form. “I wanted to go back home and keep it one hundred percent real,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134415\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134415\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg\" alt=\"A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to do this, his first order of business was to order a trompo, the vertical grill in which the pork meat is slowly cooked. “When I received the trompo, and I opened and touched it, I felt like when I was 14 and received my first turntables,” the now retired formerly known DJ MR.E said. He knew he was onto something with his soon to be Al Pastor Papi taco truck.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIn order to bring a piece of Mexico City (where he was born) back with him and make his al pastor tacos a success, Escobedo knew had to go back there to delve into what it would take to preserve the culture of this now ancestral dish. “I needed to get some street game,” he said of traveling to Mexico to talk to local taqueros but also to take a crash course at the Instituto de Gastronomía México.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, he was able to learn the mother recipe of al pastor from one of the chefs teaching the course. “He [the chef] solidified my sentiments that this is where I needed to be,” Escobedo said, and everything he learned about the making of the al pastor meat was brought back to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134416\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134416\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1441\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1020x766.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1200x901.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Escobedo takes pride in each taco he serves, and much like the owners of La Santa Torta, he sees the gleaming faces of chilangos (a name given to those from Mexico City) who come by Al Pastor Papi to gets tacos and with each bite feel like they are back home, “the usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lack of taquerias equipped with trompos is partly to blame for the lack of authentic tacos al pastor in the Bay Area. Another hurdle is an ordinance with the health department which doesn’t allow for the meat to be sliced off the trompo and served immediately on the tortilla. The meat that goes in the tacos has to first be put on the flat top, then inside the tortilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This added step deviates from the original way of serving tacos al pastor like they do back in Mexico City. “I want to lead the fight in educating the health department [inspectors] on what can be done to be able to get the meat right off the trompo,” Escobedo said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134409\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg\" alt=\"Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "This Fearless Woman Is Fighting To Keep Slavery Out Of Your Seafood",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_111409,bayareabites_133521' label='More on Seafood']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulca\">G\u003cem>host Fleet\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is a gripping new documentary about modern-day slaves in the Thai fishing industry. The film delves into the sordid labor practices of an industry that supplies the United States, Europe and Asia with seafood, but it does so by focusing on the compelling work of Bangkok-based Patima Tungpuchayakul, an abolitionist who has devoted her life to helping \"lost\" men return home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She works with a former slave, Tun Lin, who was kidnapped when he was 14 and forced to fish without pay for 11 years. Together, they visit remote islands in Southeast Asia, where captive men have lived for years — never seeing their families until Tungpuchayakul and her team show up and free them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The documentary grew out of a piece co-director Shannon Service and a colleague \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2012/06/19/155045295/confined-to-a-thai-fishing-boat-for-three-years\">did for NPR\u003c/a> in 2012 — a story then followed up by \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, AP, the\u003cem> Guardian\u003c/em>, and others. But the film has an emotional power that's missing from the news reports, captured in the lines etched on the men's faces, in their tears, in the remote tropical locations where the film takes place, and in the strength of the protagonist, Tungpuchayakul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shannon took time out of her busy screening schedule for the film (\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/ghostfleet/thefilm\">which is currently playing in selected theatres in the U.S.\u003c/a>) to talk about the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/uws9Pk33gqs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did the film come about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on this story for seven years. I started with another reporter, Becky Palstrom, and together we spent six months looking into slavery in the Thai fishing industry. We were investigating how it was that tens or hundreds of thousands of men have crossed borders, gone into policed ports, gone out to sea, and disappeared, and nobody was really talking about it. The story took us across Southeast Asia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we were doing this reporting, it also became obvious that the underbelly of the fishing industry was a crazy, fascinating world. Each one of the men we interviewed could have had a Hollywood film scripted about him. These men left home with the best of intentions to support their family; they were convinced to go into Thailand, or they just walked into a bar and were drugged and woke up on board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're living in the space of an 18-wheeler, saving each others' lives, keeping each other sane and enduring incredible hardship. Some of them had never seen the ocean before, or swam, and suddenly they're on a boat for many years. If they do see land, they'll grab something that floats, jump into the water to escape, land on an island, and then sleep in trees to avoid snakes. Or they'll marry into an indigenous community, but their actual family thinks they're dead. And they have no hope of getting home. Doing the radio doc, it became clear to me it needed to be a film. And luckily Jeffrey Waldron (co-director) and Greg Kwedar (co-producer) heard the radio piece and contacted me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1259px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck.\" width=\"1259\" height=\"709\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg 1259w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-800x451.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1200x676.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1259px) 100vw, 1259px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ghost Fleet)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the process of making this film over so many years?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You go shoot a little bit, raise money, shoot more, raise more money. Luckily, there were ocean-focused groups who really saw what we saw: That slavery is the Achilles' heel of overfishing — these boats went further and further from shore and they needed a labor force. So human traffickers stepped into the gap and started selling people. If you have to adhere to good labor standards, decent pay, and get men home to their families, you can't send these boats around the world skirting international and national laws to catch fish. We got a number of oceans organizations and people on board, including the director of \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KRD8e20fBo\">The Cove\u003c/a>,\" co-producer and \u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/\">Vulcan Productions\u003c/a>, and they've been absolutely critical. They understood that the film was about the intersection of food, human rights and environmental advocacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Was there pushback because your characters do not speak English — they aren't the white environmentalist saving the world? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're right, and it's definitely been a longer and harder road because of that. This is about a woman of color saving men — so it turns the typical Hollywood narrative on its head. We actually had a lot of opportunities to get fully funded if we could \"find a character that the audience can relate to.\" And that's code for white, straight men. There are a lot of Western groups that have been doing amazing work on this issue, but they are not doing the kind of work that Patima and Tun Lin are doing — which is incredibly cinematic, front line, incredibly human, daring work. We heard things like, \"OK, we'll give you the funding as soon as you find the Western hero that speaks English.\" And the message is, these issues are only solved by Western heroes, which is rarely the case. But we stood our ground. I'm very proud of the film for that and proud of our team, but it's definitely been much harder.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='pop_10684' label='More Documentaries to Watch']\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>So what has been the reception for the film?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been extremely strong at film festivals, playing to mostly sold-out rooms. People are very moved. There are a lot of tears. It's a very emotional film and people are really receiving it with a lot of openness. We're getting the same reception from the seafood industry. We didn't do a name-and-shame film where we point out one company, because it's a systemic issue; if that particular company were to shift, people would think the problem was solved when it's not. So it's really opened doors in seafood circles in a reflective way, rather than in a bad-PR way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>And what's the status of slavery in the seafood industry? You show Patima's dramatic work freeing these workers, but is slavery still the status quo?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is, more or less. It's extremely difficult to get solid numbers on it, because it's a black market. The Thai government says this is all in the past, but that is belied by the fact that there are rescues going on all the time. The government is taking admirable steps in the right direction in terms of putting more boots on boats, but they lag way behind in prosecuting captains or owners. And while Thailand is not alone — there are certainly incidents on boats ranging from South Korea to Scotland — Thailand still leads the pack in terms of the scale of this problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Samuel Fromartz is the editor-in-chief of the Food & Environment Reporting Network and author of \u003c/em>Organic Inc.\u003cem>, and \u003c/em>In Search of the Perfect Loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/15/741138111/this-fearless-woman-is-fighting-to-keep-slavery-out-of-your-seafood\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulca\">G\u003cem>host Fleet\u003c/em>\u003c/a> is a gripping new documentary about modern-day slaves in the Thai fishing industry. The film delves into the sordid labor practices of an industry that supplies the United States, Europe and Asia with seafood, but it does so by focusing on the compelling work of Bangkok-based Patima Tungpuchayakul, an abolitionist who has devoted her life to helping \"lost\" men return home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She works with a former slave, Tun Lin, who was kidnapped when he was 14 and forced to fish without pay for 11 years. Together, they visit remote islands in Southeast Asia, where captive men have lived for years — never seeing their families until Tungpuchayakul and her team show up and free them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The documentary grew out of a piece co-director Shannon Service and a colleague \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2012/06/19/155045295/confined-to-a-thai-fishing-boat-for-three-years\">did for NPR\u003c/a> in 2012 — a story then followed up by \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, AP, the\u003cem> Guardian\u003c/em>, and others. But the film has an emotional power that's missing from the news reports, captured in the lines etched on the men's faces, in their tears, in the remote tropical locations where the film takes place, and in the strength of the protagonist, Tungpuchayakul.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shannon took time out of her busy screening schedule for the film (\u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/ghostfleet/thefilm\">which is currently playing in selected theatres in the U.S.\u003c/a>) to talk about the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/uws9Pk33gqs'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/uws9Pk33gqs'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did the film come about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on this story for seven years. I started with another reporter, Becky Palstrom, and together we spent six months looking into slavery in the Thai fishing industry. We were investigating how it was that tens or hundreds of thousands of men have crossed borders, gone into policed ports, gone out to sea, and disappeared, and nobody was really talking about it. The story took us across Southeast Asia. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we were doing this reporting, it also became obvious that the underbelly of the fishing industry was a crazy, fascinating world. Each one of the men we interviewed could have had a Hollywood film scripted about him. These men left home with the best of intentions to support their family; they were convinced to go into Thailand, or they just walked into a bar and were drugged and woke up on board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're living in the space of an 18-wheeler, saving each others' lives, keeping each other sane and enduring incredible hardship. Some of them had never seen the ocean before, or swam, and suddenly they're on a boat for many years. If they do see land, they'll grab something that floats, jump into the water to escape, land on an island, and then sleep in trees to avoid snakes. Or they'll marry into an indigenous community, but their actual family thinks they're dead. And they have no hope of getting home. Doing the radio doc, it became clear to me it needed to be a film. And luckily Jeffrey Waldron (co-director) and Greg Kwedar (co-producer) heard the radio piece and contacted me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1259px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck.\" width=\"1259\" height=\"709\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85.jpg 1259w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-800x451.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/fishing-boat-1260x709_custom-c3f2ec1e8e35dff56099d8cec58b0a478a26766f-s1600-c85-1200x676.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1259px) 100vw, 1259px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of an Asian fishing vessel, with men asleep on deck. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Ghost Fleet)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What was the process of making this film over so many years?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You go shoot a little bit, raise money, shoot more, raise more money. Luckily, there were ocean-focused groups who really saw what we saw: That slavery is the Achilles' heel of overfishing — these boats went further and further from shore and they needed a labor force. So human traffickers stepped into the gap and started selling people. If you have to adhere to good labor standards, decent pay, and get men home to their families, you can't send these boats around the world skirting international and national laws to catch fish. We got a number of oceans organizations and people on board, including the director of \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KRD8e20fBo\">The Cove\u003c/a>,\" co-producer and \u003ca href=\"https://www.vulcanproductions.com/\">Vulcan Productions\u003c/a>, and they've been absolutely critical. They understood that the film was about the intersection of food, human rights and environmental advocacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Was there pushback because your characters do not speak English — they aren't the white environmentalist saving the world? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're right, and it's definitely been a longer and harder road because of that. This is about a woman of color saving men — so it turns the typical Hollywood narrative on its head. We actually had a lot of opportunities to get fully funded if we could \"find a character that the audience can relate to.\" And that's code for white, straight men. There are a lot of Western groups that have been doing amazing work on this issue, but they are not doing the kind of work that Patima and Tun Lin are doing — which is incredibly cinematic, front line, incredibly human, daring work. We heard things like, \"OK, we'll give you the funding as soon as you find the Western hero that speaks English.\" And the message is, these issues are only solved by Western heroes, which is rarely the case. But we stood our ground. I'm very proud of the film for that and proud of our team, but it's definitely been much harder.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>So what has been the reception for the film?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been extremely strong at film festivals, playing to mostly sold-out rooms. People are very moved. There are a lot of tears. It's a very emotional film and people are really receiving it with a lot of openness. We're getting the same reception from the seafood industry. We didn't do a name-and-shame film where we point out one company, because it's a systemic issue; if that particular company were to shift, people would think the problem was solved when it's not. So it's really opened doors in seafood circles in a reflective way, rather than in a bad-PR way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>And what's the status of slavery in the seafood industry? You show Patima's dramatic work freeing these workers, but is slavery still the status quo?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is, more or less. It's extremely difficult to get solid numbers on it, because it's a black market. The Thai government says this is all in the past, but that is belied by the fact that there are rescues going on all the time. The government is taking admirable steps in the right direction in terms of putting more boots on boats, but they lag way behind in prosecuting captains or owners. And while Thailand is not alone — there are certainly incidents on boats ranging from South Korea to Scotland — Thailand still leads the pack in terms of the scale of this problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Samuel Fromartz is the editor-in-chief of the Food & Environment Reporting Network and author of \u003c/em>Organic Inc.\u003cem>, and \u003c/em>In Search of the Perfect Loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/15/741138111/this-fearless-woman-is-fighting-to-keep-slavery-out-of-your-seafood\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Samin Nosrat Is Making Space At The Table",
"title": "Samin Nosrat Is Making Space At The Table",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_130841,bayareabites_131646' label='More Samin Nosrat News']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of her food journalism, the food world has been well aware of Samin Nosrat for several years. But she became a household name when two things happened: First, her book \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid Heat: Mastering The Art of Good Cooking\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/cookbook-club-review-salt-fat-acid-heat\">became a runaway bestseller last year\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book explored the mysteries of cooking for the home chef, and garnered just about every award a cookbook could get. In the words of Nosrat's mentor, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a> (chef-owner of the legendary Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse,) \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/em> \"not only teaches you how to cook, but captures how it should feel to cook: full of exploration, spontaneity and joy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/codeswitch/2019/05/20190529_codeswitch_1230am_samin_nosrat.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that weren't enough, \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/2oKbs4jAf7M\">Nosrat filmed a four-part docuseries with Netflix last fall\u003c/a>, and which was also called \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/em>. In it, she travels to Italy to explore the importance of fat (olive oil! Parmesan!); to Japan to see salt harvested and soy and miso fermented; then to Yucatán, Mexico to see how acid, in the form of sour oranges, enhances dishes; and finally back to California to show us how heat transforms meats and vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the Netflix series, Nosrat became so well known it became hard to walk down the street or into her favorite grocery store without being stopped by fans and yes, people with questions. (So many questions!) And sometimes just thanks. She recalled the Iranian father in Oakland who thanked her for speaking to his daughters, who were Iranian and African American. \"Thank you for showing them what is possible,\" he told her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat is that rare thing: a woman of color in the upper echelons of the snarky, hyper-competitive food world. Her columns appear regularly in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, she travels the country lecturing about food and culture and doing cooking demonstrations. She is acutely aware of her unicorn status, and spends a lot of time thinking about how to push wider the door she's managed to open so she won't be the Only One in the public eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently she was in Los Angeles, and stopped by Shereen Marisol Meraji's home to cook and chat with Shereen and me in the backyard. Since summer's officially started, we asked her about \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020213-mast-o-khiar-persian-cucumber-and-herb-yogurt\">Mast-o Khiar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020212-salad-e-shirazi-persian-cucumber-tomato-and-onion-salad?action=click&module=RecirculationRibbon&pgType=recipedetails&rank=4\">Salad-e Shirazi\u003c/a>, a couple of Persian dishes that work well on hot days. (These came from her \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> article \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/14/dining/persian-food-recipes-samin-nosrat.html\">Samin Nosrat's Ten Essential Persian Recipes\u003c/a> — you can get the recipes without having to go behind the paywall until June 12.) Her recipes are as delicious as her laugh, which burbles into conversation often and easily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an excerpt from our interview. It has been edited and condensed for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Code Switch:\u003c/strong> You were born and grew up in San Diego, the child of parents who immigrated from Iran. A lot of immigrant families, wherever they're from, try to get comfortable in their new country by cooking what they ate in the old one. But American grocery stores are...American. They probably were missing a lot of stuff your mom needed when she first got here, decades ago. Did she have to forage for ingredients? Do you have to now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Samin Nosrat:\u003c/strong> My mom would go everywhere she could to find the right thing, but if it didn't turn up, you know, we'd use flour tortillas instead of lavash bread to make the \u003ca href=\"https://www.saltfatacidheat.com/heat/pavo-en-escabeche\">Tahdig\u003c/a>. So I think cooking is all about being scrappy, no matter where you're from and where you are. It's using what you've got to make something good. I think immigrants in general are put into a lot more challenging situations. But I think that lead to a lot of really incredible creativity when we went to school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Did you and your sister bring your lunch?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> Yeah. We had PB&J, but we also had these things called \u003cem>kotlets --\u003c/em> they're sort of like little meatloaf patties. And \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/persian-herb-and-leek-frittata\">\u003cem>kuku sabzi\u003c/em>\u003c/a> -- kind of a really herby, green frittata. [My mom] also made a lot of Iranian spaghetti.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Iranian spaghetti?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> Yep, we call it espaghetti; it's like an Iranian fantasy of what Italian meat sauce is. It had chopped mushrooms, onions, beef (because there's no pork in Iran) and a ton of tomato sauce. And a ton of dried oregano. And she would cook it and then she would mix it and then she put it back in the pot and make tahdig out of it. So there's like a spaghetti tahdig which is really good. The pasta was absorbing the excess liquid from the sauce and it was super delicious! And for leftovers for school we would put the espaghetti in a pita pocket --double carbs!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> So food was one way your mother held onto her culture and passed it on to you. She also spoke Farsi to you, y'all went to Persian school...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> On \u003cem>Saturday\u003c/em>! While everyone else got to watch cartoons and hang out! But now I'm so grateful for it. I think she did such a good job — I was never ashamed I was Iranian, never embarrassed about it at all. So that was a nice thing. I did feel very different than everyone else in San Diego, though.\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-133817\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-salad-e-shirazi-002-_custom-3864db6c5fa1e2fe93e7421059468b9d4cef3b2e-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Salad-E Shirazi\" width=\"700\" height=\"436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-salad-e-shirazi-002-_custom-3864db6c5fa1e2fe93e7421059468b9d4cef3b2e-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-salad-e-shirazi-002-_custom-3864db6c5fa1e2fe93e7421059468b9d4cef3b2e-s700-c85-160x100.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Iranian? Persian? Most of us don't know the culture very well, and we don't want to offend by using the wrong word. Or are they different words for the same thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> I tend to use both words, Persian and Iranian, interchangeably, but not everybody does that. To me, I feel like often we're forced to hide behind the term Persian to decide to create distance between this image of what Iranians are that has been perpetuated in the media, certainly for my entire lifetime, which is one of two things: a terrorist or [the reality show] \u003ca href=\"https://www.bravotv.com/shahs-of-sunset\">\u003cem>Shahs of Sunset\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. There's so much more! But you see one Iranian person and suddenly everyone uses that as the point of reference to know everything about your whole culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Talk a little bit about the pressure of identity. You kind of stand out among your food world peers, none of whom look like you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> It's so hard. It's really hard. I mean, I think about trying my best to convey in every word and action that I'm only representing me. But it doesn't matter what I say. You know because people are gonna perceive what they want to perceive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The example I always use is this joke: True diversity is not when there's the excellent black person, the excellent Iranian chef or whatever. It's when there's as much black and brown and queer mediocrity as there is white mediocrity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> We imagine that when these recipes came out, identified as Ten Essentials, you got a lot of feedback—and clapback—from your fellow Iranians. Maybe you used an ingredient they didn't or you cooked the dish a slightly different way and how dare you? That kind of thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> Most of the feedback has been positive, but there have been times when they weren't. Like my mom is in one of the episodes of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, and we cooked Persian rice together. It didn't turn out perfectly for many reasons, including television production is hard! My mom was on a schedule and we didn't have time to do it again. So in fact right after we took it out, I said—on camera—\"every Iranian lady in the world is going to have something to say about this!\" There was one tweet the other day where somebody was like \"Ok, she and her mother ruined the Tahdig on the show—what a waste of saffron!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I blocked him—then I unblocked him and retweeted it with a comment saying, \"Call me when \u003cem>you\u003c/em> take \u003cem>your \u003c/em>immigrant mother on camera and make a perfect tahdig!\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-133818\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-mast-o-khiar-002-_custom-677458d7ac515b3a6596a3afee880f1b1b419e46-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-mast-o-khiar-002-_custom-677458d7ac515b3a6596a3afee880f1b1b419e46-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-mast-o-khiar-002-_custom-677458d7ac515b3a6596a3afee880f1b1b419e46-s700-c85-160x100.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Sometimes when there's only one person from a certain background in a particular space, that pioneering person opens the door for others, so it isn't fused shut again. But some want to shut the door behind them, and be the Only One in the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> I don't want to be the only one, but there's something special about being the only one, right? I'm the child of immigrants, and there was always a garage filled with food, just in case, and you kept money under the mattress. You were always prepared, because you couldn't trust that you were being taken care of. So that translated into my life into a lot of opportunity hoarding. My first urge when I get asked to do things is, \"Oh this is my last shot; this is mine. I'm going to say yes to this, because if you don't ask me, who are you going to get?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you know what? I had to calm down and trust that if I say \"no\" this time, it will come around again. Or another chance will. I'll get another shot, and it actually doesn't harm me at all to help somebody else. I have just gotten so much more out of sharing than I ever have from hoarding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2019/05/30/726375712/samin-nosrat-is-making-space-at-the-table\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of her food journalism, the food world has been well aware of Samin Nosrat for several years. But she became a household name when two things happened: First, her book \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid Heat: Mastering The Art of Good Cooking\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/cookbook-club-review-salt-fat-acid-heat\">became a runaway bestseller last year\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book explored the mysteries of cooking for the home chef, and garnered just about every award a cookbook could get. In the words of Nosrat's mentor, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a> (chef-owner of the legendary Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse,) \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/em> \"not only teaches you how to cook, but captures how it should feel to cook: full of exploration, spontaneity and joy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that weren't enough, \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/2oKbs4jAf7M\">Nosrat filmed a four-part docuseries with Netflix last fall\u003c/a>, and which was also called \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/em>. In it, she travels to Italy to explore the importance of fat (olive oil! Parmesan!); to Japan to see salt harvested and soy and miso fermented; then to Yucatán, Mexico to see how acid, in the form of sour oranges, enhances dishes; and finally back to California to show us how heat transforms meats and vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the Netflix series, Nosrat became so well known it became hard to walk down the street or into her favorite grocery store without being stopped by fans and yes, people with questions. (So many questions!) And sometimes just thanks. She recalled the Iranian father in Oakland who thanked her for speaking to his daughters, who were Iranian and African American. \"Thank you for showing them what is possible,\" he told her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat is that rare thing: a woman of color in the upper echelons of the snarky, hyper-competitive food world. Her columns appear regularly in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, she travels the country lecturing about food and culture and doing cooking demonstrations. She is acutely aware of her unicorn status, and spends a lot of time thinking about how to push wider the door she's managed to open so she won't be the Only One in the public eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recently she was in Los Angeles, and stopped by Shereen Marisol Meraji's home to cook and chat with Shereen and me in the backyard. Since summer's officially started, we asked her about \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020213-mast-o-khiar-persian-cucumber-and-herb-yogurt\">Mast-o Khiar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020212-salad-e-shirazi-persian-cucumber-tomato-and-onion-salad?action=click&module=RecirculationRibbon&pgType=recipedetails&rank=4\">Salad-e Shirazi\u003c/a>, a couple of Persian dishes that work well on hot days. (These came from her \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> article \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/05/14/dining/persian-food-recipes-samin-nosrat.html\">Samin Nosrat's Ten Essential Persian Recipes\u003c/a> — you can get the recipes without having to go behind the paywall until June 12.) Her recipes are as delicious as her laugh, which burbles into conversation often and easily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's an excerpt from our interview. It has been edited and condensed for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Code Switch:\u003c/strong> You were born and grew up in San Diego, the child of parents who immigrated from Iran. A lot of immigrant families, wherever they're from, try to get comfortable in their new country by cooking what they ate in the old one. But American grocery stores are...American. They probably were missing a lot of stuff your mom needed when she first got here, decades ago. Did she have to forage for ingredients? Do you have to now?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Samin Nosrat:\u003c/strong> My mom would go everywhere she could to find the right thing, but if it didn't turn up, you know, we'd use flour tortillas instead of lavash bread to make the \u003ca href=\"https://www.saltfatacidheat.com/heat/pavo-en-escabeche\">Tahdig\u003c/a>. So I think cooking is all about being scrappy, no matter where you're from and where you are. It's using what you've got to make something good. I think immigrants in general are put into a lot more challenging situations. But I think that lead to a lot of really incredible creativity when we went to school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Did you and your sister bring your lunch?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> Yeah. We had PB&J, but we also had these things called \u003cem>kotlets --\u003c/em> they're sort of like little meatloaf patties. And \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/persian-herb-and-leek-frittata\">\u003cem>kuku sabzi\u003c/em>\u003c/a> -- kind of a really herby, green frittata. [My mom] also made a lot of Iranian spaghetti.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Iranian spaghetti?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> Yep, we call it espaghetti; it's like an Iranian fantasy of what Italian meat sauce is. It had chopped mushrooms, onions, beef (because there's no pork in Iran) and a ton of tomato sauce. And a ton of dried oregano. And she would cook it and then she would mix it and then she put it back in the pot and make tahdig out of it. So there's like a spaghetti tahdig which is really good. The pasta was absorbing the excess liquid from the sauce and it was super delicious! And for leftovers for school we would put the espaghetti in a pita pocket --double carbs!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> So food was one way your mother held onto her culture and passed it on to you. She also spoke Farsi to you, y'all went to Persian school...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> On \u003cem>Saturday\u003c/em>! While everyone else got to watch cartoons and hang out! But now I'm so grateful for it. I think she did such a good job — I was never ashamed I was Iranian, never embarrassed about it at all. So that was a nice thing. I did feel very different than everyone else in San Diego, though.\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-133817\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-salad-e-shirazi-002-_custom-3864db6c5fa1e2fe93e7421059468b9d4cef3b2e-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Salad-E Shirazi\" width=\"700\" height=\"436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-salad-e-shirazi-002-_custom-3864db6c5fa1e2fe93e7421059468b9d4cef3b2e-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-salad-e-shirazi-002-_custom-3864db6c5fa1e2fe93e7421059468b9d4cef3b2e-s700-c85-160x100.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Iranian? Persian? Most of us don't know the culture very well, and we don't want to offend by using the wrong word. Or are they different words for the same thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> I tend to use both words, Persian and Iranian, interchangeably, but not everybody does that. To me, I feel like often we're forced to hide behind the term Persian to decide to create distance between this image of what Iranians are that has been perpetuated in the media, certainly for my entire lifetime, which is one of two things: a terrorist or [the reality show] \u003ca href=\"https://www.bravotv.com/shahs-of-sunset\">\u003cem>Shahs of Sunset\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. There's so much more! But you see one Iranian person and suddenly everyone uses that as the point of reference to know everything about your whole culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Talk a little bit about the pressure of identity. You kind of stand out among your food world peers, none of whom look like you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> It's so hard. It's really hard. I mean, I think about trying my best to convey in every word and action that I'm only representing me. But it doesn't matter what I say. You know because people are gonna perceive what they want to perceive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The example I always use is this joke: True diversity is not when there's the excellent black person, the excellent Iranian chef or whatever. It's when there's as much black and brown and queer mediocrity as there is white mediocrity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> We imagine that when these recipes came out, identified as Ten Essentials, you got a lot of feedback—and clapback—from your fellow Iranians. Maybe you used an ingredient they didn't or you cooked the dish a slightly different way and how dare you? That kind of thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> Most of the feedback has been positive, but there have been times when they weren't. Like my mom is in one of the episodes of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, and we cooked Persian rice together. It didn't turn out perfectly for many reasons, including television production is hard! My mom was on a schedule and we didn't have time to do it again. So in fact right after we took it out, I said—on camera—\"every Iranian lady in the world is going to have something to say about this!\" There was one tweet the other day where somebody was like \"Ok, she and her mother ruined the Tahdig on the show—what a waste of saffron!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I blocked him—then I unblocked him and retweeted it with a comment saying, \"Call me when \u003cem>you\u003c/em> take \u003cem>your \u003c/em>immigrant mother on camera and make a perfect tahdig!\"\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-133818\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-mast-o-khiar-002-_custom-677458d7ac515b3a6596a3afee880f1b1b419e46-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"436\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-mast-o-khiar-002-_custom-677458d7ac515b3a6596a3afee880f1b1b419e46-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/samin-nosrat-mast-o-khiar-002-_custom-677458d7ac515b3a6596a3afee880f1b1b419e46-s700-c85-160x100.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>CS:\u003c/strong> Sometimes when there's only one person from a certain background in a particular space, that pioneering person opens the door for others, so it isn't fused shut again. But some want to shut the door behind them, and be the Only One in the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SN:\u003c/strong> I don't want to be the only one, but there's something special about being the only one, right? I'm the child of immigrants, and there was always a garage filled with food, just in case, and you kept money under the mattress. You were always prepared, because you couldn't trust that you were being taken care of. So that translated into my life into a lot of opportunity hoarding. My first urge when I get asked to do things is, \"Oh this is my last shot; this is mine. I'm going to say yes to this, because if you don't ask me, who are you going to get?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you know what? I had to calm down and trust that if I say \"no\" this time, it will come around again. Or another chance will. I'll get another shot, and it actually doesn't harm me at all to help somebody else. I have just gotten so much more out of sharing than I ever have from hoarding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='jacques-pepin' label='More Pépin' sites='arts,bayareabites,checkplease']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003cb>May 3, 2019\u003c/b>, Jacques Pépin will receive a Lifetime Achievement Award at the Daytime Emmys. In honor of the occasion, we took a look back at the 16-time James Beard Award winner, French Legion of Honor member chef, author and TV personality's vibrant career. Pépin's friends, family and colleagues also got together on camera to celebrate the well-deserved honor (you will see some recognizable faces in the video above).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fellow PBS chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=25270\">Martin Yan\u003c/a> also puts it best, saying, \"Jacques, you have more lifetime awards than a cat has lives. Then again, I cannot think of anyone more deserving. For me, it is a privilege of a lifetime to learn from you, to be inspired by you. Congratulations, my friend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over his career, Pépin hosted 12 PBS cooking shows, like '\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/w/morefastfoodmyway/\">Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way\u003c/a>,' '\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">Essential Pepin\u003c/a>' and '\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jpepinheart/\">Jacques Pépin Heart & Soul\u003c/a>' to name a few. All of his programs were filmed at KQED, and it is an honor and a joy to see a member of the KQED family receive this distinguished, well-deserved award.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Congratulations, Chef!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>An abbreviated version of the video above will air at the Emmys ceremony.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \u003cb>May 3, 2019\u003c/b>, Jacques Pépin will receive a Lifetime Achievement Award at the Daytime Emmys. In honor of the occasion, we took a look back at the 16-time James Beard Award winner, French Legion of Honor member chef, author and TV personality's vibrant career. Pépin's friends, family and colleagues also got together on camera to celebrate the well-deserved honor (you will see some recognizable faces in the video above).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fellow PBS chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=25270\">Martin Yan\u003c/a> also puts it best, saying, \"Jacques, you have more lifetime awards than a cat has lives. Then again, I cannot think of anyone more deserving. For me, it is a privilege of a lifetime to learn from you, to be inspired by you. Congratulations, my friend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over his career, Pépin hosted 12 PBS cooking shows, like '\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/w/morefastfoodmyway/\">Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way\u003c/a>,' '\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">Essential Pepin\u003c/a>' and '\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/jpepinheart/\">Jacques Pépin Heart & Soul\u003c/a>' to name a few. All of his programs were filmed at KQED, and it is an honor and a joy to see a member of the KQED family receive this distinguished, well-deserved award.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Congratulations, Chef!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>BottleRock Napa Valley returns May 24–26, but no festival is complete without food and drink to get you through three days of fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's where the Williams Sonoma Culinary Stage comes in as a mini food festival within the larger music festival. This year's star-studded lineup is even bigger with stars like \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em>‘s Padma Lakshmi and Gail Simmons, Trisha Yearwood, \u003cem>Queer Eye\u003c/em>’s Antoni Porowski, Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto and Travel Channel star Andrew Zimmern headlining the Culinary Stage (KCBS “Foodie Chap” Liam Mayclem will be the event's emcee).\u003cbr>\n[aside postID=\"arts_13848210\" label=\"See Who's Playing\"]\u003cbr>\nLast year, we saw Martha Stewart cook with Macklemore and Giada De Laurentiis make pasta with Halsey. The Culinary Stage even broke a World Record with Snoop Dogg and Michael Voltaggio collaborating to make the World’s Largest Gin and Juice. The antics continue this year with even more celebrity pairings to entertain attendees with demonstrations, performances and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Celebrity chefs include \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> host Graham Elliot, \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em>’s Voltaggio Brothers of Estuary restaurant, Aarón Sánchez of Fox’s Masterchef, Food Network star Duff Goldman, Vice Network star Matty Matheson, \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> Masters Ludo LeFebvre, \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> Richard Blais, \u003cem>Top Chef Masters\u003c/em> Hubert Keller, Travel Channel star Adam Richman, Flour Shop bakery founder Amirah Kassem and Nic Jones from Goose & Gander in St. Helena Napa Valley. As part of winning the latest season of \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> chef Kelsey Barnard Clark will also be making her debut appearance on the Williams Sonoma Culinary Stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joining the culinary talent on the Williams Sonoma Stage are musicians Alice Cooper, Questlove, Big Boi, Lukas Nelson, Juanes, Tré Cool of Green Day, Ben McKee of Imagine Dragons, Daniel Platzman of Imagine Dragons, Taylor Hawkins of Chevy Metal, Cypress Hill, Michael Franti, Too $hort, AJR, Game of Thrones's Kristian Nairn, The Regrettes and Shannon Shaw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>WWE star wrestlers The Bella Twins, along with sports legends Ken Griffey Jr., former MLB Pitcher Jake Peavy and Marshawn Lynch will also join the fun, as well as celebrities \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13844589/jeff-goldblum-the-jazz-artist-life-uh-finds-a-way\">Jeff Goldblum\u003c/a>, Will & Grace’s Eric McCormack, Ali Lartner of the Resident Evil films, Gary Dell A'Bate (Baba Booey) of The Howard Stern Show, KTVU Sports Director Mark Ibanez and Napa City Mayor Jill Techel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the Williams Sonoma Culinary Stage, there will be a variety of dining options throughout the festival grounds featuring many of the most celebrated chefs and restaurateurs from the Napa Valley and beyond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>VIP passes are already sold out, but limited 3-day and single-day general admission passes are available \u003ca href=\"https://www.bottlerocknapavalley.com/\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BottleRock Napa Valley runs May 24–26 at the Napa Valley Expo. \u003ca href=\"https://www.bottlerocknapavalley.com/\">Details here.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>The Bay Area's \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a> partnered with the producers of the beloved Emmy winning \u003ca href=\"https://www.netflix.com/title/80160037\">\u003ci>Queer Eye\u003c/i>\u003c/a> to serve up a new unique flavor just in time for the Season 3 premiere on March 15th. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"bayareabites_18541\" label=\"Food Secrets of Humphry Slocombe's Jake Godby + Sean Vahey\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chef and co-founder Jake Godby says, \"Like the flavor itself, working with \u003ci>Queer Eye\u003c/i> was an unexpected pleasure that seemed to come out of nowhere. The process was definitely collaborative (they know what they're doing) and the resulting flavor is a true representation of both our brands.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what is the new flavor? Called Cookies + Graham, this ice cream collaboration features chocolate cookies and graham cracker in olive oil ice cream, and this \"unexpected combination of flavors takes something ordinary and transforms it into something new that surprises and delights with every bite.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surprising and delightful? Sounds like just the right combo for our Fab Five favs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.instagram.com/p/BusK4T6nsuf/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ci>Queer Eye\u003c/i> team is just as excited about the flavor, saying, “Can you believe there is a Fab 5 flavor now?! Not to be dramatic, but we are beyond excited to serve you some literal ice cream, henny! At \u003ci>Queer Eye\u003c/i>, we like to bring together the unexpected to make something different and better. The Humphry Slocombe x Queer Eye Cookies + Graham flavor is exactly that – an adult version of cookies and cream with a touch of the Fab 5 magic!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"pop_104854\" label=\"Following the 'Queer Eye' Fab 5 on Instagram Might Just Fix Your Life\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This ice cream collaboration is now available in all Humphry Slocombe scoop shops for the whole month of March, so grab a pint and cozy up on the couch while watching the Fab Five change some lives for the better (and making the audience cry as a result). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want to get out of the house for a special treat? Head to a Humphry Slocombe location (listed below) to try the Queer Eye Smores Sundae: 1 scoop of Cookies + Graham topped with hot fudge and torched marshmallow fluff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pints will be launching for nationwide delivery via \u003ca href=\"https://www.goldbelly.com/humphry-slocombe\">Goldbelly\u003c/a> in April, and in May, you can find these pints in retail stores, starting with Safeway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Humphry Slocombe\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003cb>San Francisco:\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nMission district: 2790A Harrison St.\u003cbr>\nFerry Building: One Ferry Building\u003cbr>\n\u003cb>East Bay:\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nOakland: The Hive, 2335 Broadway\u003cbr>\nComing Soon: 2948 College Ave in Berkeley\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/humphryslocombe/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/humphryslocombe/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/humphryslocombe\">Twitter\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This ice cream collaboration is now available in all Humphry Slocombe scoop shops for the whole month of March, so grab a pint and cozy up on the couch while watching the Fab Five change some lives for the better (and making the audience cry as a result). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want to get out of the house for a special treat? Head to a Humphry Slocombe location (listed below) to try the Queer Eye Smores Sundae: 1 scoop of Cookies + Graham topped with hot fudge and torched marshmallow fluff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pints will be launching for nationwide delivery via \u003ca href=\"https://www.goldbelly.com/humphry-slocombe\">Goldbelly\u003c/a> in April, and in May, you can find these pints in retail stores, starting with Safeway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Humphry Slocombe\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003cb>San Francisco:\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nMission district: 2790A Harrison St.\u003cbr>\nFerry Building: One Ferry Building\u003cbr>\n\u003cb>East Bay:\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nOakland: The Hive, 2335 Broadway\u003cbr>\nComing Soon: 2948 College Ave in Berkeley\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/humphryslocombe/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/humphryslocombe/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/humphryslocombe\">Twitter\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Any kid with a cellphone or social media account is likely to be following one or more of thousands of social media influencers who regularly post about what they do, what they like and what they eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally, these are people in their 20s who are successful, outgoing, positive, energetic and \"highly appealing\" to the younger crowd, according to \u003ca href=\"https://www.liverpool.ac.uk/psychology/staff/anna-coates/\">Anna Coates\u003c/a>, a doctoral student at the School of Psychology at the University of Liverpool in the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coates wanted to know just how much kids' diets could be influenced by these video bloggers. So she and her colleagues conducted a study involving 176 children ages 9 to 11. The kids were divided into three groups. All the groups were shown images from real YouTube videos posted by popular vloggers in the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One group viewed vloggers who were not eating but holding an iPhone or sneaker, for example. Another group viewed images of vloggers eating healthy snacks like fruits or carrots. The third group viewed images of junk food being consumed, which included items like Mars chocolate bars, chocolate biscuits, and cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After viewing the images, children had 10 minutes to choose between healthy snacks (carrot sticks and grapes) and unhealthy snacks (jelly beans and chocolate buttons). Watching the social media influencers consume healthy snacks did not make a significant difference in which foods — or how much — the children chose to eat after viewing the images.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those children who viewed vloggers eating unhealthy snacks, it was a different story: They consumed 32 percent more calories from unhealthy snacks compared with the children who viewed no food being eaten. And that translated to an extra 90 calories per day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It only takes an extra 70 calories a day for a child of normal weight to become overweight,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.drnataliemuth.com/\">Dr. Natalie Muth\u003c/a>, a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.aap.org/en-us/Pages/Default.aspx\">American Academy of Pediatrics\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a pediatrician, Muth says many of her patients are overweight or obese, which puts them at risk for a variety of diseases later in life — or even while they're still in childhood: She says she's seeing an increase in the number of children diagnosed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.diabetes.org/diabetes-basics/type-2/\">Type 2 diabetes\u003c/a>, a disease formerly suffered by mostly adults.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's well-known that junk food ads on TV can strongly \u003ca href=\"https://publichealthlawcenter.org/topics/healthy-eating/food-marketing-kids\">influence\u003c/a> what kids want to eat. Muth worries that the added influence of social media will exacerbate an already unhealthy food environment, where kids are constantly being \"bombarded by media images to eat junk food and drink unhealthy sugary drinks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coates and her co-authors conclude that food marketing restrictions should be applied to new forms of digital marketing, particularly on social media, where \"vulnerable young people spend a lot of their time.\" More research is needed to understand the impact of digital food marketing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Coates suggests that parents prepare their children for the junk food onslaught by talking with them about what's healthy and what's not. Her study is \u003ca href=\"https://doi.org/10.1542/peds.2018-2554\">published \u003c/a>this week in the journal \u003cem>Pediatrics\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/03/04/699588187/social-media-may-sway-kids-to-eat-more-cookies-and-more-calories\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Any kid with a cellphone or social media account is likely to be following one or more of thousands of social media influencers who regularly post about what they do, what they like and what they eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally, these are people in their 20s who are successful, outgoing, positive, energetic and \"highly appealing\" to the younger crowd, according to \u003ca href=\"https://www.liverpool.ac.uk/psychology/staff/anna-coates/\">Anna Coates\u003c/a>, a doctoral student at the School of Psychology at the University of Liverpool in the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coates wanted to know just how much kids' diets could be influenced by these video bloggers. So she and her colleagues conducted a study involving 176 children ages 9 to 11. The kids were divided into three groups. All the groups were shown images from real YouTube videos posted by popular vloggers in the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One group viewed vloggers who were not eating but holding an iPhone or sneaker, for example. Another group viewed images of vloggers eating healthy snacks like fruits or carrots. The third group viewed images of junk food being consumed, which included items like Mars chocolate bars, chocolate biscuits, and cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After viewing the images, children had 10 minutes to choose between healthy snacks (carrot sticks and grapes) and unhealthy snacks (jelly beans and chocolate buttons). Watching the social media influencers consume healthy snacks did not make a significant difference in which foods — or how much — the children chose to eat after viewing the images.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those children who viewed vloggers eating unhealthy snacks, it was a different story: They consumed 32 percent more calories from unhealthy snacks compared with the children who viewed no food being eaten. And that translated to an extra 90 calories per day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It only takes an extra 70 calories a day for a child of normal weight to become overweight,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.drnataliemuth.com/\">Dr. Natalie Muth\u003c/a>, a spokesperson for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.aap.org/en-us/Pages/Default.aspx\">American Academy of Pediatrics\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a pediatrician, Muth says many of her patients are overweight or obese, which puts them at risk for a variety of diseases later in life — or even while they're still in childhood: She says she's seeing an increase in the number of children diagnosed with \u003ca href=\"http://www.diabetes.org/diabetes-basics/type-2/\">Type 2 diabetes\u003c/a>, a disease formerly suffered by mostly adults.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's well-known that junk food ads on TV can strongly \u003ca href=\"https://publichealthlawcenter.org/topics/healthy-eating/food-marketing-kids\">influence\u003c/a> what kids want to eat. Muth worries that the added influence of social media will exacerbate an already unhealthy food environment, where kids are constantly being \"bombarded by media images to eat junk food and drink unhealthy sugary drinks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coates and her co-authors conclude that food marketing restrictions should be applied to new forms of digital marketing, particularly on social media, where \"vulnerable young people spend a lot of their time.\" More research is needed to understand the impact of digital food marketing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Coates suggests that parents prepare their children for the junk food onslaught by talking with them about what's healthy and what's not. Her study is \u003ca href=\"https://doi.org/10.1542/peds.2018-2554\">published \u003c/a>this week in the journal \u003cem>Pediatrics\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/03/04/699588187/social-media-may-sway-kids-to-eat-more-cookies-and-more-calories\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Palestinian Chefs Building a Bridge to Their Culture Through Food",
"title": "The Palestinian Chefs Building a Bridge to Their Culture Through Food",
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"content": "\u003cp>When Lamees Dahbour set up her weekly tent at Off The Grid, the San Francisco-based food truck fair, this year, she didn’t just unpack trays of fragrant falafel, crisp \u003cem>ejja\u003c/em> (vegetable fritters), and creamy \u003cem>mutabal\u003c/em> (eggplant dip). She also unfurled a red, black, white, and green Palestinian flag and displayed it proudly. The flag was a conversation-starter: \u003ca href=\"https://www.mamalamees.com/our-story\">Mama Lamees\u003c/a>, as she is affectionately known, says that people often came up and asked about it, although some confused Palestine with Pakistan. It was also a way to proudly share her identity, at a time when many Americans know little about Palestinian culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We want to spread the word and the taste of some dishes, [and make it clear] that there is a culture called Palestinian, and there is a food belonging to that country,” says Dahbour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dahbour is featured in an upcoming episode of KCET’s documentary series “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kcet.org/shows/the-migrant-kitchen\">The Migrant Kitchen\u003c/a>,” alongside \u003ca href=\"https://www.thrillist.com/best-new-restaurants-2018?article=best-chef\">rising star\u003c/a> and fellow Palestinian chef, Reem Assil. The episode, which airs tonight, highlights the chefs’ work and sheds a rare light on Palestinians and the Arab world through food. At a time when anti-Arab sentiment is front and center in many parts of the U.S., Assil and Dahbour serve up a message of understanding and acceptance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131657\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Lamees Dahbour.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamees Dahbour. \u003ccite>(Jim Sulllivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Palestinians have been cooking forever, but we kind of hide behind our food,” says Assil. “We’ll call it ‘Mediterranean,’ we don’t call it what it is, because we’re afraid.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The antidote, for both these chefs, is visibility. At \u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s California\u003c/a>, Assil’s Oakland-based bakery, she made the deliberate decision to call the menu “Arab street food.” For her, it’s a kind of reclamation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We should be proud to be Arab,” she says. “We’re a beautiful people, we’re not terrorists, we’re not all these backwards images that the media puts out about us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside Reem’s, voices singing in Arabic play over the speakers, a mural of a Palestinian activist graces the wall, and profiles of Middle Eastern artists, musicians, and thinkers are printed on each of the numbered order cards—like baseball cards for the culturally literate. And at \u003ca href=\"https://www.dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>, the critically acclaimed Oakland restaurant Assil opened in April with Bay Area chef and restauranteur Daniel Patterson’s restaurant group, she’s bringing Syrian-Palestinian cuisine—often relegated to cheap-eats establishments—to a fine-dining setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>An Unlikely Journey to Owning a Food Business\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Though Dahbour is of Palestinian heritage, she was born in Kuwait. Her father left Palestine to escape political turmoil, undertaking an arduous desert crossing during which many of his friends died. In Kuwait, Dahbour grew up as the middle child in a large family. Around age 11 or 12, her mother was hospitalized for a time and Dahbour found herself in charge of the kitchen. She loved it. “[It] gave me a chance to be kind of the head of the household!” she laughs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131658\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131658\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Lamees Dahbour at work in the kitchen.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamees Dahbour at work in the kitchen. \u003ccite>(Jim Sulllivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At that point, operating a food business never crossed her mind. Instead, she pursued higher education, eventually working in business administration for the United Nations, a job that took her all over the Middle East. In 2006, she decided to move to the U.S. with her husband and small children to follow her extended family. Dahbour is frank about surviving domestic violence from her former husband, and she’s measured when she talks about her divorce and living as a single mother with three kids in elementary school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was really tough financially to do and run everything in the family,” she says. “I spent almost six years in court, in family court, in criminal courts, just to get my family situation stable.” Around the time when her kids were graduating from elementary and middle school, that time of year when many families bring teachers and principals gifts, Dahbour made some calculations: She couldn’t afford to buy gifts for all her children’s teachers, but she could cook up a Palestinian feast, and offer “traditional dishes that are not in the market.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response to her food was overwhelmingly positive, and guests asked her, “Why aren’t you opening a restaurant?” The manager of her housing complex, who always followed the incredible smells coming out of her apartment and eventually joined the family for meals, agreed—and it was this manager who introduced Dahbour to La Cocina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> is a nonprofit incubator kitchen in San Francisco that supports working class food entrepreneurs, with a primary focus on immigrants and women of color. Now in their thirteenth year, La Cocina provides business resources and consulting for 35 to 40 entrepreneurs a year from their space in the city’s Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Moving Forward, Despite Controversy\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Assil is also a La Cocina alum and her path to working in food was just as nonlinear as Dahbour’s. Before baking had even crossed her mind, Assil was a community organizer and activist. Her trajectory toward food began after 9/11, when a crescendo of anti-Arab sentiment fed into her sense of anxiety and a lack of belonging. She got sick, left college in 2003, and came to stay with family in California. Here, she says, she nursed herself back to health through food, anti-war activism, and “finding my voice as an Arab woman.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was one dish that Assil found especially captivating: \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em>, a chewy flatbread with crisp edges. It was \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> that she made with her family, and \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> that she saw again and again in local bakeries while on what she calls “a soul-searching trip to Lebanon and Syria.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131659\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil making man’oushe at Reem’s California.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil making man’oushe at Reem’s California. \u003ccite>(Jim Sullivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“For those of us from the Middle East, [\u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em>] is a household name, it’s something we grew up eating,” says Ramzi Salti, a Lecturer in Arabic at Stanford University. Salti, who is also featured in “The Migrant Kitchen,” is author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.arabology.org/\">Arabology\u003c/a>, a blog that highlights culture from the Arab world. Watching the growth in popularity of \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> here in the States has been something of a pleasant surprise, Salti says. “You live long enough, you see everything!” he laughs. In addition to being delicious, he adds, the flatbread is “supposed to have very healing qualities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Assil, this healing wasn’t just physical, she also found it profound to explore the role bread plays in Arab cultures. “Bread is the lifeline, the oral history of my people,” she says. “It’s something that is accessible to both the rich and the poor and across cultures; everybody resonates with bread.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In even the most remote mountain villages in the Middle East, Assil says, you’ll find a post office and a bakery. These bakeries are cornerstones in their communities, and seeing this inspired Assil to develop the concept for Reem’s at La Cocina in 2015. When a spot opened up at the busy Fruitvale Station transit hub in East Oakland the following year, it made perfect sense. Here, at a sunny corner spot just under the train platform, she serves up \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> covered in flavorful \u003ci>za’atar\u003c/i>, \u003ci>shakshuka\u003c/i>, lamb baked in turnovers, chewy sesame-coated bread called \u003ci>khobz sim sim\u003c/i>, and rows of sweet pastries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131660\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131660\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil holding her baby at Reem’s California. \" width=\"350\" height=\"519\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519-160x237.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519-240x356.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil holding her baby at Reem’s California. \u003ccite>(Jim Sullivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has not been free from controversy, however. The large, colorful mural that decorates one wall of Reem’s Bakery—of a woman named Rasmea Odeh who, in 1970, at 21, was convicted by Israeli courts of participating in a bombing that killed two Israeli students—became a hot-button issue within weeks of the shop opening. While Assil sees Odeh as a civic leader and a symbol of resilience, \u003ca href=\"https://www.jweekly.com/2017/05/30/an-bakery-that-dishes-out-hatred/\">an op-ed\u003c/a> in The Jewish News of Northern California denounced the bakery for lionizing a “terrorist.” Hate mail and negative Yelp reviews followed, but Assil’s community rallied around her and the bakery. Today, the protesters have moved on, and the mural remains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Assil and Dahbour stress the allyship they’ve seen from Jewish customers and friends. When her bakery was targeted, Assil says, “the first people to come to my side were my white and Jewish allies.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a similar note, Dahbour remembers how surprised she was when Israeli customers came to talk with her at her food tent, telling her where they were from and asking if they could reserve seats at her restaurant (there’s no brick-and mortar restaurant yet, however). The lawyer who volunteered to help register Dahbour’s business is Jewish and one of her closest friends; since he and his family keep kosher, she cooks vegetarian dishes for the meals they share so their families can eat together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For both chefs, the lesson has been to model openness and civility, even when faced with opposition. “I feel like … food puts some peace between people,” says Dahbour, thoughtfully. “Food brings everyone to one table peacefully. I don’t think you’re going to cook for someone you hate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One of the ways to counteract extremism or xenophobia is to show another side to the culture, or to the people, and what better way is there to do that than through food and cuisine?” asks Salti. His words are measured and cautiously optimistic. “Showing that side of the culture will perhaps lead to a better understanding of the region itself and show a better, more harmonious tomorrow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was produced in partnership with KCET’s “The Migrant Kitchen” and originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2018/12/05/the-palestinian-chefs-building-a-bridge-to-their-culture-through-food/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>. Now in its third season, “The Migrant Kitchen” will air an episode profiling Dahbour and Assil on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcet.org/shows/the-migrant-kitchen/episodes/manoushe\">December 5\u003c/a>. The trailer for the episode is embedded below.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All photos by Jim Sullivan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"//players.brightcove.net/136368194/V1xBaDVb6l_default/index.html?videoId=5975995498001\" frameborder=\"0\" width=\"640\" height=\"360></iframe\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Featured on the new season of KCET’s ‘Migrant Kitchen,’ Reem Assil and Lamees Dahbour are redefining their cuisine and culture, and serving up a message of peace.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When Lamees Dahbour set up her weekly tent at Off The Grid, the San Francisco-based food truck fair, this year, she didn’t just unpack trays of fragrant falafel, crisp \u003cem>ejja\u003c/em> (vegetable fritters), and creamy \u003cem>mutabal\u003c/em> (eggplant dip). She also unfurled a red, black, white, and green Palestinian flag and displayed it proudly. The flag was a conversation-starter: \u003ca href=\"https://www.mamalamees.com/our-story\">Mama Lamees\u003c/a>, as she is affectionately known, says that people often came up and asked about it, although some confused Palestine with Pakistan. It was also a way to proudly share her identity, at a time when many Americans know little about Palestinian culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We want to spread the word and the taste of some dishes, [and make it clear] that there is a culture called Palestinian, and there is a food belonging to that country,” says Dahbour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dahbour is featured in an upcoming episode of KCET’s documentary series “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kcet.org/shows/the-migrant-kitchen\">The Migrant Kitchen\u003c/a>,” alongside \u003ca href=\"https://www.thrillist.com/best-new-restaurants-2018?article=best-chef\">rising star\u003c/a> and fellow Palestinian chef, Reem Assil. The episode, which airs tonight, highlights the chefs’ work and sheds a rare light on Palestinians and the Arab world through food. At a time when anti-Arab sentiment is front and center in many parts of the U.S., Assil and Dahbour serve up a message of understanding and acceptance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131657\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Lamees Dahbour.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-Lamees-family-kitchen-700x467-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamees Dahbour. \u003ccite>(Jim Sulllivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Palestinians have been cooking forever, but we kind of hide behind our food,” says Assil. “We’ll call it ‘Mediterranean,’ we don’t call it what it is, because we’re afraid.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The antidote, for both these chefs, is visibility. At \u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s California\u003c/a>, Assil’s Oakland-based bakery, she made the deliberate decision to call the menu “Arab street food.” For her, it’s a kind of reclamation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We should be proud to be Arab,” she says. “We’re a beautiful people, we’re not terrorists, we’re not all these backwards images that the media puts out about us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside Reem’s, voices singing in Arabic play over the speakers, a mural of a Palestinian activist graces the wall, and profiles of Middle Eastern artists, musicians, and thinkers are printed on each of the numbered order cards—like baseball cards for the culturally literate. And at \u003ca href=\"https://www.dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>, the critically acclaimed Oakland restaurant Assil opened in April with Bay Area chef and restauranteur Daniel Patterson’s restaurant group, she’s bringing Syrian-Palestinian cuisine—often relegated to cheap-eats establishments—to a fine-dining setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>An Unlikely Journey to Owning a Food Business\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Though Dahbour is of Palestinian heritage, she was born in Kuwait. Her father left Palestine to escape political turmoil, undertaking an arduous desert crossing during which many of his friends died. In Kuwait, Dahbour grew up as the middle child in a large family. Around age 11 or 12, her mother was hospitalized for a time and Dahbour found herself in charge of the kitchen. She loved it. “[It] gave me a chance to be kind of the head of the household!” she laughs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131658\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131658\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Lamees Dahbour at work in the kitchen.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-lamees-cooking-700x467-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lamees Dahbour at work in the kitchen. \u003ccite>(Jim Sulllivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At that point, operating a food business never crossed her mind. Instead, she pursued higher education, eventually working in business administration for the United Nations, a job that took her all over the Middle East. In 2006, she decided to move to the U.S. with her husband and small children to follow her extended family. Dahbour is frank about surviving domestic violence from her former husband, and she’s measured when she talks about her divorce and living as a single mother with three kids in elementary school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was really tough financially to do and run everything in the family,” she says. “I spent almost six years in court, in family court, in criminal courts, just to get my family situation stable.” Around the time when her kids were graduating from elementary and middle school, that time of year when many families bring teachers and principals gifts, Dahbour made some calculations: She couldn’t afford to buy gifts for all her children’s teachers, but she could cook up a Palestinian feast, and offer “traditional dishes that are not in the market.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response to her food was overwhelmingly positive, and guests asked her, “Why aren’t you opening a restaurant?” The manager of her housing complex, who always followed the incredible smells coming out of her apartment and eventually joined the family for meals, agreed—and it was this manager who introduced Dahbour to La Cocina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> is a nonprofit incubator kitchen in San Francisco that supports working class food entrepreneurs, with a primary focus on immigrants and women of color. Now in their thirteenth year, La Cocina provides business resources and consulting for 35 to 40 entrepreneurs a year from their space in the city’s Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Moving Forward, Despite Controversy\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Assil is also a La Cocina alum and her path to working in food was just as nonlinear as Dahbour’s. Before baking had even crossed her mind, Assil was a community organizer and activist. Her trajectory toward food began after 9/11, when a crescendo of anti-Arab sentiment fed into her sense of anxiety and a lack of belonging. She got sick, left college in 2003, and came to stay with family in California. Here, she says, she nursed herself back to health through food, anti-war activism, and “finding my voice as an Arab woman.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was one dish that Assil found especially captivating: \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em>, a chewy flatbread with crisp edges. It was \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> that she made with her family, and \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> that she saw again and again in local bakeries while on what she calls “a soul-searching trip to Lebanon and Syria.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131659\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil making man’oushe at Reem’s California.\" width=\"700\" height=\"467\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-manoushe-700x467-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil making man’oushe at Reem’s California. \u003ccite>(Jim Sullivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“For those of us from the Middle East, [\u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em>] is a household name, it’s something we grew up eating,” says Ramzi Salti, a Lecturer in Arabic at Stanford University. Salti, who is also featured in “The Migrant Kitchen,” is author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.arabology.org/\">Arabology\u003c/a>, a blog that highlights culture from the Arab world. Watching the growth in popularity of \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> here in the States has been something of a pleasant surprise, Salti says. “You live long enough, you see everything!” he laughs. In addition to being delicious, he adds, the flatbread is “supposed to have very healing qualities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Assil, this healing wasn’t just physical, she also found it profound to explore the role bread plays in Arab cultures. “Bread is the lifeline, the oral history of my people,” she says. “It’s something that is accessible to both the rich and the poor and across cultures; everybody resonates with bread.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In even the most remote mountain villages in the Middle East, Assil says, you’ll find a post office and a bakery. These bakeries are cornerstones in their communities, and seeing this inspired Assil to develop the concept for Reem’s at La Cocina in 2015. When a spot opened up at the busy Fruitvale Station transit hub in East Oakland the following year, it made perfect sense. Here, at a sunny corner spot just under the train platform, she serves up \u003cem>man’oushe\u003c/em> covered in flavorful \u003ci>za’atar\u003c/i>, \u003ci>shakshuka\u003c/i>, lamb baked in turnovers, chewy sesame-coated bread called \u003ci>khobz sim sim\u003c/i>, and rows of sweet pastries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131660\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131660\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil holding her baby at Reem’s California. \" width=\"350\" height=\"519\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519-160x237.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/181205-lamees-reem-palestinian-chefs-kcet-migrant-kitchen-baby-350x519-240x356.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil holding her baby at Reem’s California. \u003ccite>(Jim Sullivan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant has not been free from controversy, however. The large, colorful mural that decorates one wall of Reem’s Bakery—of a woman named Rasmea Odeh who, in 1970, at 21, was convicted by Israeli courts of participating in a bombing that killed two Israeli students—became a hot-button issue within weeks of the shop opening. While Assil sees Odeh as a civic leader and a symbol of resilience, \u003ca href=\"https://www.jweekly.com/2017/05/30/an-bakery-that-dishes-out-hatred/\">an op-ed\u003c/a> in The Jewish News of Northern California denounced the bakery for lionizing a “terrorist.” Hate mail and negative Yelp reviews followed, but Assil’s community rallied around her and the bakery. Today, the protesters have moved on, and the mural remains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both Assil and Dahbour stress the allyship they’ve seen from Jewish customers and friends. When her bakery was targeted, Assil says, “the first people to come to my side were my white and Jewish allies.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a similar note, Dahbour remembers how surprised she was when Israeli customers came to talk with her at her food tent, telling her where they were from and asking if they could reserve seats at her restaurant (there’s no brick-and mortar restaurant yet, however). The lawyer who volunteered to help register Dahbour’s business is Jewish and one of her closest friends; since he and his family keep kosher, she cooks vegetarian dishes for the meals they share so their families can eat together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For both chefs, the lesson has been to model openness and civility, even when faced with opposition. “I feel like … food puts some peace between people,” says Dahbour, thoughtfully. “Food brings everyone to one table peacefully. I don’t think you’re going to cook for someone you hate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One of the ways to counteract extremism or xenophobia is to show another side to the culture, or to the people, and what better way is there to do that than through food and cuisine?” asks Salti. His words are measured and cautiously optimistic. “Showing that side of the culture will perhaps lead to a better understanding of the region itself and show a better, more harmonious tomorrow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was produced in partnership with KCET’s “The Migrant Kitchen” and originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2018/12/05/the-palestinian-chefs-building-a-bridge-to-their-culture-through-food/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>. Now in its third season, “The Migrant Kitchen” will air an episode profiling Dahbour and Assil on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcet.org/shows/the-migrant-kitchen/episodes/manoushe\">December 5\u003c/a>. The trailer for the episode is embedded below.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All photos by Jim Sullivan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"soldout": {
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