food history and celebritiesfood history and celebrities
5 Strange, Wonderful Food Video Series to Keep You Company in the Kitchen
Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'
Martin Yan Was a YouTube Celebrity Chef Before There Was YouTube
After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?
Eat & Drink Like You're in the 1920s, Two Nights a Week
First Taste: Kin Khao sister restaurant Nari bursts with flavor and sophistication
25 Historic Sonoma County Restaurants That Are Still Going Strong
Andrew Zimmern, Tanya Holland and More Gather to Discuss Change in the Culinary Industry
The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Whether it's due to quarantine, unexpected unemployment or another consequence of COVID-19, you might find yourself with more hours to fill at home these days. Though there are endless ways to spend that time, these food videos from across the globe should provide some relief. Let them feed your escapist tendencies as you shelter in place, all the while giving you ideas—some more bizarre than others—on how to spend your time in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dianxi Xiaoge's Yunnan Countryside Missives\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Hailing from China's southwestern Yunnan province, \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQG_fzADCunBTV1KwjkfAQQ/featured\">Dianxi Xiaoge\u003c/a>, a self-proclaimed \"local Yunnan girl,\" releases videos of herself farming, cooking and on occasion playing with her dog Dawang. Dianxi Xiaoge's videos are as much a visual delight as they are a sonic feast. Roots are plucked from the soil, rinsed in a bucket of water, chopped in her gorgeous wood kitchen and thrown into a fiery pan to sizzle. Dianxi barely speaks in the videos, but the impeccable quality and her expertise on the farm and in her kitchen are deeply compelling. One episode after another, her bucolic Yunnan life is a respite from the realities of quarantine and city life.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/bmDs7zkrzuY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/bmDs7zkrzuY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Strange Delight of Watching Bread Face\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/breadfaceblog/?hl=en\">Bread Face\u003c/a> is the pseudonym of the anonymous woman who smashes her face into bread and other starch food items like waffles, beignets, hush puppies and neatly stacked hard shell tacos. Her tagline reads, \"Giving the people something they didn't ask for,\" and she's amassed almost 200,000 followers on Instagram doing just that. There seems to be some catharsis Bread Face experiences by plunging her face into baked goods, and her popularity suggests that maybe her audience experiences something similar by proxy. In warmly lit corners of her apartment and at restaurants, Bread Face has kept up her work since 2016. On one occasion, the New York City-based blogger posted a recipe for a tofu, scallion and onion dish—but smashing her face into bread remains her staple.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003ch2>Bon Appétit Bustling Test Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Sometime early last year, the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen's YouTube channel hit peak popularity among my friends. We exchanged memes from the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/meme_appetit/?hl=en\">Meme Appétit\u003c/a> account, and discussed our favorite chefs and series on the channel. The test kitchen's cast of characters, often filmed with the comedic timing and cuts of \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Office\u003c/em>, provide great entertainment through their quips and idiosyncrasies while sharing recipes and techniques that can easily be adapted in a home kitchen. On \u003cem>Gourmet Makes\u003c/em>, pastry chef Claire Saffitz swings from resolute to desperate while making gourmet versions of childhood classic treats like Bagel Bites and Butterfingers. Brad Leone's \u003cem>It's Alive\u003c/em> series features all things fermented, with lots of useful wisdom on preserving food couched in humor from the affable New Jersey chef. Over the last two weeks, the test kitchen chefs have hinted on social media that they'll be filming from home while they obey New York's stay-at-home orders, so stay tuned for more pantry pasta and comforting classics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_136250' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg' 'label='Cook up chef Bryant Terry's Beans and Broccoli sandwich for dinner this week']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martin Yan is still convinced that if he can cook, so can you. At 71, the celebrated television show host and master chef is deeply optimistic about the power of food to bring people together. “Food brings the family together. Food brings friends closer. Food is diplomacy,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_125031' label='What does chef Yan cook at home?']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 1983, KQED broadcast the first season of \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yan Can Cook \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(the chef appeared on a Canadian television program a few years earlier). Zany and educational, Yan’s show, which still airs new episodes, gained a following across the nation. Like public television cooking favorites Julia Child and Jacques Pepin’s shows, the success of Yan’s cooking program was driven by his personality—an indisputable expertise made accessible by his commitment to silliness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A more singular challenge Yan faced was introducing Chinese cooking techniques to an audience whose idea of the cuisine was far less complex in 1983 than it is today. He recalls his weekly pilgrimages to San Francisco’s Chinatown to gather ingredients. “Thirty, forty years ago when we started, it was hard to find ingredients. Now there’s a whole isle of ethnic food,” he says. “A chef can go and pick up anything they want.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136189\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136189\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1.jpg\" alt='With his famous catchphrase \"If Yan can cook, you can too!\", chef Martin Yan introduced audiences to Chinese cooking techniques. ' width=\"1920\" height=\"1699\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-160x142.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-800x708.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-768x680.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-1020x903.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">With his famous catchphrase \"If Yan can cook, you can too!\", chef Martin Yan introduced audiences to Chinese cooking techniques. \u003ccite>(KQED Archives)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, personality-driven cooking shows are ubiquitous on television and streaming platforms. Among those, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appétit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s YouTube channel boasts over a billion views with shows focusing on the adventures and experiments of the editorial team from its bustling test kitchen. Moving away from “hands-and-pans” shots that insinuate neutral professionalism,\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Bon Appétit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">along with YouTube celebrities have placed humor and narrative at the center of their videos. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All this is something Yan has done since the beginning. “Some people do it with passion, some people do it as a job,” he says. “We have done this with passion and only when you have passion you don’t feel like you’re working.” His passion is contagious, as seen in the active comment section of fan uploads of \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em>, with people recalling watching when they stayed home from school and on weekend mornings. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today, Yan is still cooking and touring the world with his show, exploring different regional cuisines in China and nearby nations in east Asia. He also runs the successful M.Y. China restaurant on the 4th floor of San Francisco’s Westfield Center. “I continue to believe that if I do a good job, people will come together and cook more,” he says. “So if I can do it on air, everybody can do it.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For those of you want to relive the classic days of\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_PgxS3FkP7CL6Jg_8VENIhPSS8vul6cZ\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Yan Can Cook\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, KQED is releasing past episodes every Monday in 2020. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT5-z1dGL70&w=560&h=315]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Martin Yan is still convinced that if he can cook, so can you. At 71, the celebrated television show host and master chef is deeply optimistic about the power of food to bring people together. “Food brings the family together. Food brings friends closer. Food is diplomacy,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 1983, KQED broadcast the first season of \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yan Can Cook \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(the chef appeared on a Canadian television program a few years earlier). Zany and educational, Yan’s show, which still airs new episodes, gained a following across the nation. Like public television cooking favorites Julia Child and Jacques Pepin’s shows, the success of Yan’s cooking program was driven by his personality—an indisputable expertise made accessible by his commitment to silliness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A more singular challenge Yan faced was introducing Chinese cooking techniques to an audience whose idea of the cuisine was far less complex in 1983 than it is today. He recalls his weekly pilgrimages to San Francisco’s Chinatown to gather ingredients. “Thirty, forty years ago when we started, it was hard to find ingredients. Now there’s a whole isle of ethnic food,” he says. “A chef can go and pick up anything they want.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136189\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136189\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1.jpg\" alt='With his famous catchphrase \"If Yan can cook, you can too!\", chef Martin Yan introduced audiences to Chinese cooking techniques. ' width=\"1920\" height=\"1699\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-160x142.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-800x708.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-768x680.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Chef-Yan-w_-Dishes-1-1020x903.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">With his famous catchphrase \"If Yan can cook, you can too!\", chef Martin Yan introduced audiences to Chinese cooking techniques. \u003ccite>(KQED Archives)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, personality-driven cooking shows are ubiquitous on television and streaming platforms. Among those, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bon Appétit\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s YouTube channel boasts over a billion views with shows focusing on the adventures and experiments of the editorial team from its bustling test kitchen. Moving away from “hands-and-pans” shots that insinuate neutral professionalism,\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Bon Appétit \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">along with YouTube celebrities have placed humor and narrative at the center of their videos. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All this is something Yan has done since the beginning. “Some people do it with passion, some people do it as a job,” he says. “We have done this with passion and only when you have passion you don’t feel like you’re working.” His passion is contagious, as seen in the active comment section of fan uploads of \u003cem>Yan Can Cook\u003c/em>, with people recalling watching when they stayed home from school and on weekend mornings. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today, Yan is still cooking and touring the world with his show, exploring different regional cuisines in China and nearby nations in east Asia. He also runs the successful M.Y. China restaurant on the 4th floor of San Francisco’s Westfield Center. “I continue to believe that if I do a good job, people will come together and cook more,” he says. “So if I can do it on air, everybody can do it.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For those of you want to relive the classic days of\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_PgxS3FkP7CL6Jg_8VENIhPSS8vul6cZ\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Yan Can Cook\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, KQED is releasing past episodes every Monday in 2020. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/XT5-z1dGL70'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/XT5-z1dGL70'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?",
"title": "After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When D'Abruzzo opened its first food kiosk in New York City's Bryant Park a few years ago, I dashed over to taste the Italian mountainous region's trademark mutton arrosticini and capture photographic proof of its existence in America, as this is not a dish often seen on our shores.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='npr-food' num='2' label='More NPR Stories on KQED']\u003cbr>\nThanks to D'Abruzzo, hundreds, maybe thousands, of Americans would be able to sample the region's savory, salted, grilled sheep-meat-on-a-stick that is cooked with passion in Abruzzo, on its own specialized grill, called \u003cem>la furnacell\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moments after posting photos of D'Abruzzo's arrosticini and its menu on Facebook, responses from Abruzzese friends and family came flooding in. They were excited. Proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>One of us — in Manhattan!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were also uniformly thrown into a state of irascibility over one unforgivable sin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They use lamb, not mutton!\" venomously typed my Abruzzese friend, Ugo Budani, from 4,000 miles away. \"There can be no substitute!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should note that D'Abruzzo's lamb arrosticini tastes like heaven on a stick. But that's beside the point: On this side of the Atlantic, \u003cem>not \u003c/em>having a substitute for mutton in eateries could be professional suicide — because sheep meat never got a fighting chance in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is close to impossible to even find mutton in the U.S.,\" says Ken Albala, professor of history at California's University of the Pacific. \"It costs more to raise sheep for longer periods of time, and the decline in wool production in the U.S. is directly related to the decline in mutton as a culinary delicacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wasn't always the case. Old restaurant menus from the New York Public Library archives tell a different tale about mutton's desirability. A 1915 menu from Fraunces Tavern in New York City offered broiled English mutton chops with baked potatoes for $1.50 — 25 cents more than the price of its roast spring lamb. First-class passengers on the \u003cem>RMS Titanic\u003c/em> were served grilled mutton chops, while spring lamb was reserved for second class. And, at Keens Chophouse in NYC in 1941, the English mutton chop, kidney, sausage and bacon cost $1.61, just 60 cents less than its pricey filet mignon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the early 1900s there were 237 menus with mutton,\" says Keens Steakhouse manager Bonnie Jenkins. \"But after World War II, people were celebrating. They were forced to eat mutton during war time and they wanted to get away from it. You don't see it on menus in the 1950s and '60s.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Mutton: a casualty of war\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Few foods suffered quite the same public relations calamity as a result of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"U.S. GI's were fed canned Australian mutton, which by all accounts was just awful,\" says Bob Kennard, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.muchadoaboutmutton.com/\">Much Ado About Mutton\u003c/a>. Wherever he travels, the Welsh mutton expert says he hears a similar story: \"I am told that someone's uncle or father came home from the war and wouldn't allow sheep meat in the house — they never wanted to see it again. It just went completely out of fashion.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='news_11788566' align='left']\u003cbr>\nThe fact that mutton ever even rose to the ranks of high culinary fashion in the U.S. is nothing short of a miracle. The infamous sheep and cattle wars that took place in Western states like Texas, Arizona, Colorado and Wyoming between 1870 and 1920 threatened to bring the sheep industry to its knees. Shepherds, who were generally Native American or Latin American, required a free range and plenty of grass, which often left cattle subsiding on weeds and fighting for the same territory. Cattle farmers, who benefited from the support of government officials, viewed sheep as invaders. Armed conflicts ensued, leading to the slaughter of sheep — and men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act that regulated grazing on public land, shepherds and cattlemen could peacefully co-exist. But the fact that burgers — and not mutton chops — are served at every diner in America tells you all you need to know about who won the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The development of railroads and refrigerated railroad cars also meant that beef could be shipped all over the country, says Sarah Wassberg Johnson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefoodhistorian.com/\">food historian\u003c/a>. \"Once livestock husbandry began to become more and more specialized in the United States and people were no longer subsistence producers, mutton was relegated to more regional status — the purview of shepherds culling stock, rather than John Doe consumers in Chicago or New York City buying from the butcher,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135732 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-1020x573.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millennials and more experimental diners might be open to eating mutton. \u003ccite>(Robert Nickelsberg/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Slow meat in a fast-paced world\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Even if sheep had come out as victors, our faster paced post-war lifestyle — a shift from butcher shops to grocery stores, wool clothing to polyester blends, and an increase in women leaving kitchens and entering workplaces — may not have supported mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton is a high-maintenance meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You've got to cook mutton long and slow, which makes it less tough,\" Kennard says. \"A leg of mutton takes 25 minutes a pound to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's assuming you can even find mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In countries like the U.K., lamb meat comes from sheep aged up to 1 year, hogget from animals 1 to 2 years old, and true mutton from those 2 years and older. It's worth noting that Kennard says these categories are purely unofficial, but are what are generally accepted. There is no legal definition, apart from that of lamb. But the U.S. is limited in its categories and the majority of sheep butchered is what the U.K. would consider hogget — the U.S. doesn't recognize the difference between hogget and mutton, according to Eugenie McGuire, who breeds Black Welsh Mountain sheep at \u003ca href=\"http://desertweyr.com/\">Desert Weyr\u003c/a> ranch in Colorado.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134870']\u003cbr>\nKeens Steakhouse (formerly known as Keens Chophouse), one of the few traditional restaurants that serves what they refer to as a mutton chop, purchases older lambs aged 10 months to one year, and usually a bit older, says Jenkins. While not considered mutton by U.K. standards, the taste of a 10-month-old lamb is still very different than that of a 6- to 8-month-old spring lamb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quest to score actual mutton is tricky. The meat is popular among Navajo and Pueblo peoples, is often used in Pakistani, South African and Indian curry dishes, and can be found at small suppliers like Apple Creek Farm in Maine, which sells rosemary mutton sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A hard find\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Outside of farms and niche markets, mutton still poses unique challenges. To create a tender meat, it needs to be hung in a cold room that allows its enzymes to break down. When supermarkets took over meat production, they weren't eager to hang meat because it's money in the fridge, Kennard says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuire, who owns a modest farm, says she pays more than $150 per sheep just to have it processed, and that a severe lack of infrastructure to support sheep farming is to blame for why the meat is so expensive to maintain and ship. A local brewery buys her mutton to make a sausage dish affectionately called Baahwurst, but a local upscale chef, also a buyer, labels his \"lamb\"on menus. Despite the popularity of the dish, McGuire says customers can't get past the label \"mutton.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millennials and more experimental diners on both coasts might be open to eating mutton, McGuire says, but when one high-end restaurant in New York City purchased her USDA-inspected mutton, it \"cost a bloody fortune to ship — three times the cost of other meat.\" Mutton must be shipped overnight and packed in dry ice, and the additional costs, McGuire explains, include a Hazmat charge on top of an overnight shipping charge.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A mutton revival on the horizon?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Still, McGuire, Kennard and other champions for mutton say the meat has a lot to offer and that rebranding, re-education and investment in small processing plants are needed to create new buzz around the industry. In the U.K., where the Mutton Renaissance Campaign was founded by Prince Charles, those efforts include a push to categorize mutton by location and breed. In the U.S., farmers like McGuire are also eager to differentiate between breeds and diet (grass-fed mutton is tastier, according to experts), while celebrity butchers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/adam_danforth/?hl=en\">Adam Danforth\u003c/a> are using social media to impart knowledge on the delicious benefits of dry-aging sheep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Danforth, Americans have been informed, told, reminded and marketed by a commercial industry that tenderness is the ultimate characteristic of good meat, and he calls it a ploy that plays into their model — because tenderness comes from the opposite conditions that flavor does. Mutton is neither tough nor gamey, he argues, and is a superior eating experience to lamb. \"In fact, lamb these days is more and more being developed to taste less like the species of sheep and more like beef to better appeal to the mainstream,\" Danforth says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton's best days may actually be ahead of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Good mutton is like the best steak you've ever had,\" McGuire says. \"The biggest problem is getting people to try it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lisa Fogarty is a freelance writer from New York who covers food, health and culture. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": " Once the stuff of high-end cuisine, mutton consumption tanked thanks to competition from the cattle industry and GIs fed up with rations. Fans say it's time to re-embrace this underappreciated meat. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When D'Abruzzo opened its first food kiosk in New York City's Bryant Park a few years ago, I dashed over to taste the Italian mountainous region's trademark mutton arrosticini and capture photographic proof of its existence in America, as this is not a dish often seen on our shores.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThanks to D'Abruzzo, hundreds, maybe thousands, of Americans would be able to sample the region's savory, salted, grilled sheep-meat-on-a-stick that is cooked with passion in Abruzzo, on its own specialized grill, called \u003cem>la furnacell\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moments after posting photos of D'Abruzzo's arrosticini and its menu on Facebook, responses from Abruzzese friends and family came flooding in. They were excited. Proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>One of us — in Manhattan!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were also uniformly thrown into a state of irascibility over one unforgivable sin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They use lamb, not mutton!\" venomously typed my Abruzzese friend, Ugo Budani, from 4,000 miles away. \"There can be no substitute!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should note that D'Abruzzo's lamb arrosticini tastes like heaven on a stick. But that's beside the point: On this side of the Atlantic, \u003cem>not \u003c/em>having a substitute for mutton in eateries could be professional suicide — because sheep meat never got a fighting chance in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is close to impossible to even find mutton in the U.S.,\" says Ken Albala, professor of history at California's University of the Pacific. \"It costs more to raise sheep for longer periods of time, and the decline in wool production in the U.S. is directly related to the decline in mutton as a culinary delicacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wasn't always the case. Old restaurant menus from the New York Public Library archives tell a different tale about mutton's desirability. A 1915 menu from Fraunces Tavern in New York City offered broiled English mutton chops with baked potatoes for $1.50 — 25 cents more than the price of its roast spring lamb. First-class passengers on the \u003cem>RMS Titanic\u003c/em> were served grilled mutton chops, while spring lamb was reserved for second class. And, at Keens Chophouse in NYC in 1941, the English mutton chop, kidney, sausage and bacon cost $1.61, just 60 cents less than its pricey filet mignon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the early 1900s there were 237 menus with mutton,\" says Keens Steakhouse manager Bonnie Jenkins. \"But after World War II, people were celebrating. They were forced to eat mutton during war time and they wanted to get away from it. You don't see it on menus in the 1950s and '60s.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Mutton: a casualty of war\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Few foods suffered quite the same public relations calamity as a result of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"U.S. GI's were fed canned Australian mutton, which by all accounts was just awful,\" says Bob Kennard, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.muchadoaboutmutton.com/\">Much Ado About Mutton\u003c/a>. Wherever he travels, the Welsh mutton expert says he hears a similar story: \"I am told that someone's uncle or father came home from the war and wouldn't allow sheep meat in the house — they never wanted to see it again. It just went completely out of fashion.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThe fact that mutton ever even rose to the ranks of high culinary fashion in the U.S. is nothing short of a miracle. The infamous sheep and cattle wars that took place in Western states like Texas, Arizona, Colorado and Wyoming between 1870 and 1920 threatened to bring the sheep industry to its knees. Shepherds, who were generally Native American or Latin American, required a free range and plenty of grass, which often left cattle subsiding on weeds and fighting for the same territory. Cattle farmers, who benefited from the support of government officials, viewed sheep as invaders. Armed conflicts ensued, leading to the slaughter of sheep — and men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act that regulated grazing on public land, shepherds and cattlemen could peacefully co-exist. But the fact that burgers — and not mutton chops — are served at every diner in America tells you all you need to know about who won the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The development of railroads and refrigerated railroad cars also meant that beef could be shipped all over the country, says Sarah Wassberg Johnson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefoodhistorian.com/\">food historian\u003c/a>. \"Once livestock husbandry began to become more and more specialized in the United States and people were no longer subsistence producers, mutton was relegated to more regional status — the purview of shepherds culling stock, rather than John Doe consumers in Chicago or New York City buying from the butcher,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135732 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-1020x573.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millennials and more experimental diners might be open to eating mutton. \u003ccite>(Robert Nickelsberg/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Slow meat in a fast-paced world\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Even if sheep had come out as victors, our faster paced post-war lifestyle — a shift from butcher shops to grocery stores, wool clothing to polyester blends, and an increase in women leaving kitchens and entering workplaces — may not have supported mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton is a high-maintenance meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You've got to cook mutton long and slow, which makes it less tough,\" Kennard says. \"A leg of mutton takes 25 minutes a pound to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's assuming you can even find mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In countries like the U.K., lamb meat comes from sheep aged up to 1 year, hogget from animals 1 to 2 years old, and true mutton from those 2 years and older. It's worth noting that Kennard says these categories are purely unofficial, but are what are generally accepted. There is no legal definition, apart from that of lamb. But the U.S. is limited in its categories and the majority of sheep butchered is what the U.K. would consider hogget — the U.S. doesn't recognize the difference between hogget and mutton, according to Eugenie McGuire, who breeds Black Welsh Mountain sheep at \u003ca href=\"http://desertweyr.com/\">Desert Weyr\u003c/a> ranch in Colorado.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nKeens Steakhouse (formerly known as Keens Chophouse), one of the few traditional restaurants that serves what they refer to as a mutton chop, purchases older lambs aged 10 months to one year, and usually a bit older, says Jenkins. While not considered mutton by U.K. standards, the taste of a 10-month-old lamb is still very different than that of a 6- to 8-month-old spring lamb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quest to score actual mutton is tricky. The meat is popular among Navajo and Pueblo peoples, is often used in Pakistani, South African and Indian curry dishes, and can be found at small suppliers like Apple Creek Farm in Maine, which sells rosemary mutton sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A hard find\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Outside of farms and niche markets, mutton still poses unique challenges. To create a tender meat, it needs to be hung in a cold room that allows its enzymes to break down. When supermarkets took over meat production, they weren't eager to hang meat because it's money in the fridge, Kennard says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuire, who owns a modest farm, says she pays more than $150 per sheep just to have it processed, and that a severe lack of infrastructure to support sheep farming is to blame for why the meat is so expensive to maintain and ship. A local brewery buys her mutton to make a sausage dish affectionately called Baahwurst, but a local upscale chef, also a buyer, labels his \"lamb\"on menus. Despite the popularity of the dish, McGuire says customers can't get past the label \"mutton.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millennials and more experimental diners on both coasts might be open to eating mutton, McGuire says, but when one high-end restaurant in New York City purchased her USDA-inspected mutton, it \"cost a bloody fortune to ship — three times the cost of other meat.\" Mutton must be shipped overnight and packed in dry ice, and the additional costs, McGuire explains, include a Hazmat charge on top of an overnight shipping charge.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A mutton revival on the horizon?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Still, McGuire, Kennard and other champions for mutton say the meat has a lot to offer and that rebranding, re-education and investment in small processing plants are needed to create new buzz around the industry. In the U.K., where the Mutton Renaissance Campaign was founded by Prince Charles, those efforts include a push to categorize mutton by location and breed. In the U.S., farmers like McGuire are also eager to differentiate between breeds and diet (grass-fed mutton is tastier, according to experts), while celebrity butchers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/adam_danforth/?hl=en\">Adam Danforth\u003c/a> are using social media to impart knowledge on the delicious benefits of dry-aging sheep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Danforth, Americans have been informed, told, reminded and marketed by a commercial industry that tenderness is the ultimate characteristic of good meat, and he calls it a ploy that plays into their model — because tenderness comes from the opposite conditions that flavor does. Mutton is neither tough nor gamey, he argues, and is a superior eating experience to lamb. \"In fact, lamb these days is more and more being developed to taste less like the species of sheep and more like beef to better appeal to the mainstream,\" Danforth says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton's best days may actually be ahead of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Good mutton is like the best steak you've ever had,\" McGuire says. \"The biggest problem is getting people to try it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lisa Fogarty is a freelance writer from New York who covers food, health and culture. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>During opening hours at San Jose restaurant \u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/a>, more than a dozen instruments combine to create a soundtrack of ragtime and early 20th century jazz. But don’t expect to find musicians seated at the piano benches or rosining their violin bows. Orchestria’s vintage pianos, violins, pipes, bells and drums make music all on their own.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134907,bayareabites_133626' label='More Food History Articles']\u003cbr>\n“Quirky” is the word most often used to describe this Continental European-style restaurant in San Jose’s SoFA District, says owner Mark Williams, but it’s not just the stable of mechanical music machines that encircle the dining room and stand sentinel on the upstairs balcony that has earned the restaurant its moniker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brick-walled, turn-of-the-century warehouse is full of nods to early Americana, from a soda fountain churning out Prohibition-era fizzes like black forest phosphates and raspberry ambrosias to an old-school phone booth which patrons are encouraged to use for any cell phone chatter. Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls and Art Deco posters and Tiffany-style lamps are arranged throughout the space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135306\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135306\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg\" alt=\"A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s the self-playing music machines, though — the player pianos, the Wurlitzers, the phonograph jukeboxes — that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though relatively rare today, for a brief period in the early 20th century, bars and restaurants everywhere were stocked with a mechanical music machine. It was the first time in history that recorded music became accessible to all. Now that same music, all-but-forgotten novelty songs and syncopated dance tunes that were hits in their day, are resurrected within the walls of the Orchestria.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Music enters a new era with the help of the earliest computers\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135313\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135313\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg\" alt=\"It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the late 19th century, music only existed when musicians played it. So when early player pianos, or Pianolas, and phonographs began to appear, they were a massive technological shift. The first \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/ppworks.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fully-pneumatic commercial player piano\u003c/a> arrived in the 1890s. Using pressurized air, the piano contained concealed mechanisms that turned a paper roll printed with perforated holes. The distribution of the holes and the speed of the turning roll determined the tone and melody of the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the bigger machines could play rolls that contained up to ten songs, strung together one after another, while smaller pianos could only play rolls containing a single song at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After World War I, the popularity of the player piano skyrocketed, ushering in the “Jazz Age” of the 1920s. “The early hot music was the cakewalks and those morphed into ragtime,” explains Williams, “Jazz started coming in the mid-teens and by the ‘30s they were getting into swing.” But along with a change in musical style came a change in technology. As quickly as the pianola had risen, it fell back into obscurity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Basically this era was dead by ‘31,” Williams continues, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/pphist.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">due to\u003c/a> the one-two punch thrown by the crash of the industry along with the stock market in 1929 and the rise of new methods of electrical amplification and radio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades America’s leftover Pianolas gathered dust in basements and attics and warehouses around the country but, following the 1973 release of \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sting\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>The Sting\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a Paul Newman and Robert Redford film with a ragtime soundtrack, collectors developed a renewed interest in the vintage machines along with early jukeboxes like the Deca Disc phonograph which contained five records and the Electramuse which could play up to ten records. Williams was among them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small-time collector with a few player pianos to his name, Williams was inspired to enter the restaurant world in order to create a showcase for the musical technology that was once an essential aspect of eating out. An electrical engineer by trade, a job at which he still works 40 hours a week, Williams had become jaded with the start-up culture of Silicon Valley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All your successes are so fleeting,” he says.“The point of the [restaurant] was to acknowledge that all the stuff you’re doing now, something preceded it. This technology, these were the early computers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135307\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135307\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg\" alt=\"Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.orchestriapalmcourt.com/opcabout.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mechanical instruments and players\u003c/a> that now call the Orchestria Palm Court home have come from all over. Some, like the Imhof & Mukle “Commandant 2” Orchstrian (circa 1920), a high-backed wooden beauty with piano and violin pipes and percussion instruments hidden inside, were donated. Others were purchased by Williams and his partner. The Violano-Virtuoso Player Violin, a highly-advanced invention dating to around 1925 and Williams’ favorite machine, was acquired from the widow of a hobby collector in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pianolas can be purchased cheaply Williams says — you can even find them on Craigslist for free — but restoring them to playing condition is often a complex and expensive task.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Classic foods from a simpler time\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135311\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135311\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg\" alt=\"A Black Forest Phosphate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"3411\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-160x284.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-800x1421.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-768x1364.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-1020x1812.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-675x1200.jpg 675w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Black Forest Phosphate \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Orchestria Palm Court Restaurant)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Music may be the soul of the Orchestria Palm Court, but it’s the restaurant’s food that is at its heart. Orchestria produces rich, classic European dishes like Austrian goulash, chicken breast saltimbocca, and butternut-Marsala pasta made with organic produce and dairy, free-range chicken, and grass-fed beef. There’s no microwave or deep fryer in the kitchen and the menu changes weekly to feature fresh, seasonal foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food is, in fact, so important that, when the restaurant was struggling to fill its seats after opening in 2012, Williams chose to cut its hours to two evenings a week rather than compromise ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135308\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg\" alt=\"Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beer and wine are also on order but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. “In the ‘20s, soda fountains were all the rage because of Prohibition. They came up with all sorts of varieties and the stuff tastes so different than what you get out of a can. We’ve lost a lot there,” Williams says. Indeed, this may be the only place in the Bay Area where crafted sodas like the poppy dew, a sweet, tart orange drink, and the New York-style chocolate phosphate still appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From its carefully crafted menu to its lovingly restored 1910 digs, there’s a nostalgic authenticity to the Orchestria Palm Court. The 4-bit computer code technology used in the Pianolas and early jukeboxes here didn’t just form the foundation of early recorded music, but the foundation of early Silicon Valley, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, while the rest of the Bay Area is looking for the next big breakthrough, Williams is happy with his vintage machines. They’ll keep singing for their supper every Friday and Saturday night for the foreseeable future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Website\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/eNBWZDPzJixxenYu7\">27 E William St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Jose 95112\u003cbr>\nOpen Friday & Saturday, 5:45-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At San Jose's Orchestria Palm Court, time stands still with nods to early Americana like Prohibition-era fizzes and a beloved collection of self-playing music machines.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>During opening hours at San Jose restaurant \u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/a>, more than a dozen instruments combine to create a soundtrack of ragtime and early 20th century jazz. But don’t expect to find musicians seated at the piano benches or rosining their violin bows. Orchestria’s vintage pianos, violins, pipes, bells and drums make music all on their own.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“Quirky” is the word most often used to describe this Continental European-style restaurant in San Jose’s SoFA District, says owner Mark Williams, but it’s not just the stable of mechanical music machines that encircle the dining room and stand sentinel on the upstairs balcony that has earned the restaurant its moniker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brick-walled, turn-of-the-century warehouse is full of nods to early Americana, from a soda fountain churning out Prohibition-era fizzes like black forest phosphates and raspberry ambrosias to an old-school phone booth which patrons are encouraged to use for any cell phone chatter. Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls and Art Deco posters and Tiffany-style lamps are arranged throughout the space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135306\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135306\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg\" alt=\"A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-4-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A player piano at Orchestria Palm Court. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s the self-playing music machines, though — the player pianos, the Wurlitzers, the phonograph jukeboxes — that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though relatively rare today, for a brief period in the early 20th century, bars and restaurants everywhere were stocked with a mechanical music machine. It was the first time in history that recorded music became accessible to all. Now that same music, all-but-forgotten novelty songs and syncopated dance tunes that were hits in their day, are resurrected within the walls of the Orchestria.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Music enters a new era with the help of the earliest computers\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135313\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135313\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg\" alt=\"It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-6-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s the self-playing music machines that really make the Orchestria Palm Court stand out. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before the late 19th century, music only existed when musicians played it. So when early player pianos, or Pianolas, and phonographs began to appear, they were a massive technological shift. The first \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/ppworks.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fully-pneumatic commercial player piano\u003c/a> arrived in the 1890s. Using pressurized air, the piano contained concealed mechanisms that turned a paper roll printed with perforated holes. The distribution of the holes and the speed of the turning roll determined the tone and melody of the song.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the bigger machines could play rolls that contained up to ten songs, strung together one after another, while smaller pianos could only play rolls containing a single song at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After World War I, the popularity of the player piano skyrocketed, ushering in the “Jazz Age” of the 1920s. “The early hot music was the cakewalks and those morphed into ragtime,” explains Williams, “Jazz started coming in the mid-teens and by the ‘30s they were getting into swing.” But along with a change in musical style came a change in technology. As quickly as the pianola had risen, it fell back into obscurity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Basically this era was dead by ‘31,” Williams continues, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pianola.com/pphist.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">due to\u003c/a> the one-two punch thrown by the crash of the industry along with the stock market in 1929 and the rise of new methods of electrical amplification and radio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades America’s leftover Pianolas gathered dust in basements and attics and warehouses around the country but, following the 1973 release of \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sting\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>The Sting\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a Paul Newman and Robert Redford film with a ragtime soundtrack, collectors developed a renewed interest in the vintage machines along with early jukeboxes like the Deca Disc phonograph which contained five records and the Electramuse which could play up to ten records. Williams was among them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small-time collector with a few player pianos to his name, Williams was inspired to enter the restaurant world in order to create a showcase for the musical technology that was once an essential aspect of eating out. An electrical engineer by trade, a job at which he still works 40 hours a week, Williams had become jaded with the start-up culture of Silicon Valley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All your successes are so fleeting,” he says.“The point of the [restaurant] was to acknowledge that all the stuff you’re doing now, something preceded it. This technology, these were the early computers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135307\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135307\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg\" alt=\"Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2016\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-3-player-piano-rolls-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bookcases around the restaurant are stocked with hundreds of player piano rolls. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.orchestriapalmcourt.com/opcabout.htm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mechanical instruments and players\u003c/a> that now call the Orchestria Palm Court home have come from all over. Some, like the Imhof & Mukle “Commandant 2” Orchstrian (circa 1920), a high-backed wooden beauty with piano and violin pipes and percussion instruments hidden inside, were donated. Others were purchased by Williams and his partner. The Violano-Virtuoso Player Violin, a highly-advanced invention dating to around 1925 and Williams’ favorite machine, was acquired from the widow of a hobby collector in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pianolas can be purchased cheaply Williams says — you can even find them on Craigslist for free — but restoring them to playing condition is often a complex and expensive task.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Classic foods from a simpler time\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135311\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135311\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg\" alt=\"A Black Forest Phosphate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"3411\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-160x284.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-800x1421.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-768x1364.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-1020x1812.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/black-forest-phos-675x1200.jpg 675w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Black Forest Phosphate \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Orchestria Palm Court Restaurant)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Music may be the soul of the Orchestria Palm Court, but it’s the restaurant’s food that is at its heart. Orchestria produces rich, classic European dishes like Austrian goulash, chicken breast saltimbocca, and butternut-Marsala pasta made with organic produce and dairy, free-range chicken, and grass-fed beef. There’s no microwave or deep fryer in the kitchen and the menu changes weekly to feature fresh, seasonal foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quality of the food is, in fact, so important that, when the restaurant was struggling to fill its seats after opening in 2012, Williams chose to cut its hours to two evenings a week rather than compromise ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135308\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg\" alt=\"Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Orchestria-Palm-Court-2-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer and wine are available but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. \u003ccite>(Shoshi Parks/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Beer and wine are also on order but it’s the fountain drinks that really make the restaurant’s beverage program unique. “In the ‘20s, soda fountains were all the rage because of Prohibition. They came up with all sorts of varieties and the stuff tastes so different than what you get out of a can. We’ve lost a lot there,” Williams says. Indeed, this may be the only place in the Bay Area where crafted sodas like the poppy dew, a sweet, tart orange drink, and the New York-style chocolate phosphate still appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From its carefully crafted menu to its lovingly restored 1910 digs, there’s a nostalgic authenticity to the Orchestria Palm Court. The 4-bit computer code technology used in the Pianolas and early jukeboxes here didn’t just form the foundation of early recorded music, but the foundation of early Silicon Valley, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, while the rest of the Bay Area is looking for the next big breakthrough, Williams is happy with his vintage machines. They’ll keep singing for their supper every Friday and Saturday night for the foreseeable future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Orchestria Palm Court\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"orchestriapalmcourt.com\">Website\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/eNBWZDPzJixxenYu7\">27 E William St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Jose 95112\u003cbr>\nOpen Friday & Saturday, 5:45-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Taste: Kin Khao sister restaurant Nari bursts with flavor and sophistication",
"title": "First Taste: Kin Khao sister restaurant Nari bursts with flavor and sophistication",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='checkplease_18170,bayareabites_81166' label='More on Pim from KQED']\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>by Sarah Chorey\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The words \"let's go for Thai\" are typically happy-making. Who doesn't love to dip into a platter of peanut-y pad Thai noodles or a rich, steaming bowl of red curry?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while those dishes have a place in our hearts for cozy date nights or take-out at home, what we think of as \"traditional\" Thai food often isn't authentic at all (and more than likely it isn't fresh). Fortunately, we have Pim Techamuanvivit, a Michelin-class Thai chef, right here in our backyard. Through her first restaurant, the runaway success that is Kin Khao, and now her followup project, Nari, she's showing us the way to the true flavors of Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://www.kinkhao.com/\">Kin Khao\u003c/a> opened in 2014 on the ground floor of downtown's Parc 55 Hotel (a place rarely visited by locals), the whole city was basically blown away. The restaurant served made-from-scratch, intense, and stunningly delicious Thai food in a funky, low-budget space and, in 2016, earned a Michelin star, which it has retained every year since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But hold on, because Nari is not Kin Khao 2.0.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery.jpg\" alt=\"Greenery sprouts up throughout the space, lending an urban oasis feel.\" width=\"980\" height=\"735\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134955\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greenery sprouts up throughout the space, lending an urban oasis feel. \u003ccite>(Anson Smart)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The scope of the place is your first clue. Inside Japantown's \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/first-taste-hotel-kabuki-japantown-2533728836.html\">Hotel Kabuki\u003c/a>, the dining room can seat up to 100 guests for dinner plus another 40 in the upstairs bar and lounge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The interior is also decidedly more polished than Kin Khao's. Kitted out by \u003ca href=\"https://www.lundbergdesign.com/\">Lundberg Design\u003c/a>, the aesthetes behind the interiors at Mourad and Quince, Nari is modern and elegant—an open two-story space with floor-to-ceiling windows that shed light on lush ferns and trendy monstera growing up between half-circle booths upholstered in exquisite floral fabric. In Lundberg fashion, there is thoughtful woodwork and sculptural fixtures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Design-wise, you might call Nari the brighter yang to Kin Khao's darker yin, and while Techamuanvivit has always helmed Kin Khao, there are strong feminine wiles at work here. The restaurant's name itself means \"women\" in Thai, and the operation is run by a powerhouse team of femmes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Techamuanvivit, who developed the menu, is joined by chef de cuisine Meghan Clark (also of Kin Khao) and bar star Megan Daniel-Hoang (formerly of Whitechapel). The cocktails here are named after women characters in Thai novels; there is also an extensive wine list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails.jpg\" alt=\"Left to right: The Manora, the Rojana and the Montheo\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134956\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left to right: The Manora, the Rojana and the Montheo \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nari's cocktail program is reason enough to visit. The Manora is similar to a Thai version of a pisco sour, made with egg whites, pineapple sherbert, yellow chartreuse falernum, and lime. The Rojana brings together a light rum, Smith & Cross rum, lime cordial, pineapple gum, orgeat, and Thai bitters for am elevated play on a daiquiri. The Montheo is pleasantly tart thanks to a bit of sea gin made with seaweed, sherry, chareau, vanilla, absinthe, cucumber, muddled basil, and a hint of lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've settled in, it's time to forget about pad Thai and open your taste buds to a new dimension. Salty meets sweet in most of the dishes here, and funky-intense flavors come through thanks to ingredients such as shrimp paste and fish sauce. The best approach: Order with an open mind and no expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134957\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah.jpg\" alt=\"The kapi plah is an intensely flavorful chilled dip is made with gulf prawns and shrimp paste relish and comes with a spread of crisp radishes, beans, and sliced pear.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134957\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kapi plah is an intensely flavorful chilled dip is made with gulf prawns and shrimp paste relish and comes with a spread of crisp radishes, beans, and sliced pear. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Start with the punchy miang, an intensely green betel leaf topped with stone fruit, trout roe, and fish sauce caramel. Sample the yum tawai, a platter of haricots vert with bits of chicken, peanuts, sesame, and coconut and tamarind sauce. Indulge in a pretty spicy version of gaeng bumbai aubergine, a curry of eggplant with hints of lemon basil and topped with crunchy fried shallots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134958\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari.jpg\" alt=\"Nari's gaeng rawaeng\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134958\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nari's gaeng rawaeng \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The gaeng rawaeng is a menu standout. The whole cornish game hen is cooked in a rich rawaeng curry sauce, and served with buttery roti bread perfect for dipping up all the juices. Like next-level comfort food, it's guaranteed to become a Nari signature dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The desserts, like the cocktails, shine. Saved room for the babin coconut cake, a thick, pudding-like slice of coconut, basil, and ginger, topped with toasted coconut flakes. We did also love the makrut lime tart with bright strawberries, creaming creamy citrus filling, and crispy rice puffs rolled in powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134959\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134959\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nari's makrut lime tart \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/first-taste-nari-thai-restaurant-sf-2640493649.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>by Sarah Chorey\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The words \"let's go for Thai\" are typically happy-making. Who doesn't love to dip into a platter of peanut-y pad Thai noodles or a rich, steaming bowl of red curry?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while those dishes have a place in our hearts for cozy date nights or take-out at home, what we think of as \"traditional\" Thai food often isn't authentic at all (and more than likely it isn't fresh). Fortunately, we have Pim Techamuanvivit, a Michelin-class Thai chef, right here in our backyard. Through her first restaurant, the runaway success that is Kin Khao, and now her followup project, Nari, she's showing us the way to the true flavors of Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://www.kinkhao.com/\">Kin Khao\u003c/a> opened in 2014 on the ground floor of downtown's Parc 55 Hotel (a place rarely visited by locals), the whole city was basically blown away. The restaurant served made-from-scratch, intense, and stunningly delicious Thai food in a funky, low-budget space and, in 2016, earned a Michelin star, which it has retained every year since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But hold on, because Nari is not Kin Khao 2.0.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134955\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery.jpg\" alt=\"Greenery sprouts up throughout the space, lending an urban oasis feel.\" width=\"980\" height=\"735\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134955\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-interior-greenery-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greenery sprouts up throughout the space, lending an urban oasis feel. \u003ccite>(Anson Smart)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The scope of the place is your first clue. Inside Japantown's \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/first-taste-hotel-kabuki-japantown-2533728836.html\">Hotel Kabuki\u003c/a>, the dining room can seat up to 100 guests for dinner plus another 40 in the upstairs bar and lounge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The interior is also decidedly more polished than Kin Khao's. Kitted out by \u003ca href=\"https://www.lundbergdesign.com/\">Lundberg Design\u003c/a>, the aesthetes behind the interiors at Mourad and Quince, Nari is modern and elegant—an open two-story space with floor-to-ceiling windows that shed light on lush ferns and trendy monstera growing up between half-circle booths upholstered in exquisite floral fabric. In Lundberg fashion, there is thoughtful woodwork and sculptural fixtures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Design-wise, you might call Nari the brighter yang to Kin Khao's darker yin, and while Techamuanvivit has always helmed Kin Khao, there are strong feminine wiles at work here. The restaurant's name itself means \"women\" in Thai, and the operation is run by a powerhouse team of femmes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Techamuanvivit, who developed the menu, is joined by chef de cuisine Meghan Clark (also of Kin Khao) and bar star Megan Daniel-Hoang (formerly of Whitechapel). The cocktails here are named after women characters in Thai novels; there is also an extensive wine list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134956\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails.jpg\" alt=\"Left to right: The Manora, the Rojana and the Montheo\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134956\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-cocktails-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left to right: The Manora, the Rojana and the Montheo \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nari's cocktail program is reason enough to visit. The Manora is similar to a Thai version of a pisco sour, made with egg whites, pineapple sherbert, yellow chartreuse falernum, and lime. The Rojana brings together a light rum, Smith & Cross rum, lime cordial, pineapple gum, orgeat, and Thai bitters for am elevated play on a daiquiri. The Montheo is pleasantly tart thanks to a bit of sea gin made with seaweed, sherry, chareau, vanilla, absinthe, cucumber, muddled basil, and a hint of lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've settled in, it's time to forget about pad Thai and open your taste buds to a new dimension. Salty meets sweet in most of the dishes here, and funky-intense flavors come through thanks to ingredients such as shrimp paste and fish sauce. The best approach: Order with an open mind and no expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134957\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah.jpg\" alt=\"The kapi plah is an intensely flavorful chilled dip is made with gulf prawns and shrimp paste relish and comes with a spread of crisp radishes, beans, and sliced pear.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134957\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/nari-kapi-plah-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kapi plah is an intensely flavorful chilled dip is made with gulf prawns and shrimp paste relish and comes with a spread of crisp radishes, beans, and sliced pear. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Start with the punchy miang, an intensely green betel leaf topped with stone fruit, trout roe, and fish sauce caramel. Sample the yum tawai, a platter of haricots vert with bits of chicken, peanuts, sesame, and coconut and tamarind sauce. Indulge in a pretty spicy version of gaeng bumbai aubergine, a curry of eggplant with hints of lemon basil and topped with crunchy fried shallots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134958\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari.jpg\" alt=\"Nari's gaeng rawaeng\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134958\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/gaeng-rawaeng-nari-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nari's gaeng rawaeng \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The gaeng rawaeng is a menu standout. The whole cornish game hen is cooked in a rich rawaeng curry sauce, and served with buttery roti bread perfect for dipping up all the juices. Like next-level comfort food, it's guaranteed to become a Nari signature dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The desserts, like the cocktails, shine. Saved room for the babin coconut cake, a thick, pudding-like slice of coconut, basil, and ginger, topped with toasted coconut flakes. We did also love the makrut lime tart with bright strawberries, creaming creamy citrus filling, and crispy rice puffs rolled in powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134959\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134959\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/makrut-lime-tart-nari-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nari's makrut lime tart \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/first-taste-nari-thai-restaurant-sf-2640493649.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "25 Historic Sonoma County Restaurants That Are Still Going Strong",
"title": "25 Historic Sonoma County Restaurants That Are Still Going Strong",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_129955,bayareabites_134158' label='More Sonoma Bites']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the restaurant business, it’s saying something to make it through the first year, and rare to last more than ten. But in Sonoma County, there are more than a dozen that have survived well past their 30th year, and a handful which have outlasted generations of diners, stretching back more than a century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are well-worn eateries that have a proven formula. Most share a common heritage, built by Italian immigrants to the region, serving hearty family-style meals at approachable prices. It’s not a stretch to say that the farms, timber mills, railroads and vineyards of Sonoma County were built on pasta and meatballs. And maybe a steak or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We pay homage to 25 tried and true restaurants that have stood the test of time and are still going strong.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, Petaluma (1854)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>6650 Bloomfield Road, Petaluma, 795-0127, \u003ca href=\"http://www.stormysrestaurant.com/\">stormysrestaurant.com\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134909\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stormy's Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Established as a roadhouse, Stormy’s has hosted generations of West County diners. The restaurant turned into a steakhouse in the early 1970s, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/stormys-spirits-and-supper-still-thrives-in-bloomfield/\">remains a family-style dining destination\u003c/a> in Bloomfield.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Washoe House, Petaluma (1859)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2840 Stony Point, Petaluma, 795-4544.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134910\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134910\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Washoe House, illuminated at night. \u003ccite>(Chris Hardy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A former stagecoach stop connecting Petaluma, Santa Rosa and Bodega, this historic roadhouse is best known for two things: Dollar bills pinned to the bar ceiling and The Battle of the Washoe House. According to legend, following the 1865 assassination of Abraham Lincoln, a group of Petaluma militia were intent on creating trouble for Southern-leaning Santa Rosans. Their thirst got the best of them, and the group ended up getting drunk instead of rabble-rousing. The Washoe House was sold in 2015 to Petaluma Creamery owner Larry Peter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134911\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134911\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Personalized dollar bills hang from the ceiling at Washoe House in Petaluma. \u003ccite>(Beth Schlanker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Volpi’s Grocery, Petaluma (1925)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>124 Washington St., Petaluma, 762-2371.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134912\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134912\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-800x560.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-800x560.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-768x538.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-1020x714.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-1200x840.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Volpi's Ristorante and Historical Bar in Petaluma. \u003ccite>(Kent Porter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though it's operated as a grocery for most of its existence, Volpi’s major claim to fame was as a speakeasy in the 1920s. Locals know that the “secret” bar is still in operation, with a convenient escape door to the alley in case of a raid. Or your ex-wife. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134913\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134913\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-800x1057.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-800x1057.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-768x1014.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-908x1200.jpg 908w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brother and sister John and Sylvia Volpi grew up in an accordion-playing family and used to play Friday and Saturday nights and for special occasions at Volpi's Ristorante and Bar in Petaluma. Sylvia passed away in 2017. \u003ccite>(Kent Porter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The grocery became a restaurant in 1992, though there’s still an old Italian grocery vibe with well-worn wooden floors and walls lined with Italian tchotchkes, accordions, and candle wax-covered chianti bottles.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pinky's Pizza, Petaluma (1962)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>321 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, 707-763-2510, \u003ca href=\"http://pinkyspizzaparlor.com/\">pinkyspizzaparlor.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134914\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134914\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys-768x512.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinky's Pizza. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A hometown classic pizza joint loved by generations of Petalumans.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Union Hotel, Occidental (1891)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3731 Main St., Occidental, 874-3555, \u003ca href=\"http://www.unionhoteloccidental.com/\">unionhoteloccidental.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134915\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134915\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-800x529.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"529\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-800x529.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-768x508.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-1020x675.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Union Hotel, in Occidental. \u003ccite>(Christopher Chung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though there are several newer locations of this classic restaurant, the Occidental restaurant has been around for more than 125 years. What began as the Union Saloon and General Store grew into a family business, with four generations managing the restaurant serving Italian dinners over the years. The bakery and cafe is packed on the weekends, and rightly so, with some of the best pastries around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134916\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134916\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic-800x637.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"637\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic-160x127.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic-768x612.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hotel staff on the porch in 1918. \u003ccite>(Sonoma Heritage Collection -- Sonoma County Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Catelli’s, Geyserville (1936)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 857-7142, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mycatellis.com/\">mycatellis.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134917\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134917\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-800x558.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"558\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-800x558.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-1020x712.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-1200x837.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis.jpg 1390w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinner in the dinning room at Catelli's The Rex restaurant in Geyserville. \u003ccite>(Catelli's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Italian immigrants Santi and Virginia Catelli opened Catelli’s “The Rex” in tiny Geyserville as an unpretentious family eatery featuring spaghetti, minestrone and ravioli. The family closed the restaurant in 1986, but it was reopened in Healdsburg, where it stood until 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134918\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134918\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-800x567.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"567\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-800x567.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-768x544.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-1020x723.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Richard's meat sauce over ten layer lasagna at Catelli's in Geyserville. \u003ccite>(Jeff Kan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 2010, siblings Domenica and Nick Catelli reopened the restaurant at the original Geyserville location, where its been host to a number of celebrities, but remains an approachable family-style restaurant. Their paper-thin layers of lasagna noodles makes Catelli’s version one of the best in the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dinucci's Italian Dinners, Valley Ford (1939)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>14485 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford, 876-3260, \u003ca href=\"http://www.dinuccisrestaurant.com/\">dinuccisrestaurant.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134919\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134919\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinucci's Italian Dinners in Valley Ford, California. \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the building dates to 1908, serving train travelers, the current restaurant didn’t open until 1939. Run by Henry and Mabel Dinucci, the restaurant was a welcome stop for hearty family-style Italian dinners. The restaurant was sold to the Wagner family in 1968, but some of Mabel's recipes have stood the test of time, and are still in use today. The historic interior hasn’t changed much, with red and white checkered tablecloths right out of the 1940s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134920\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A photo of owner Jeanne Garcia's mother Betty Wagner, who originally owned the restaurant with her husband, hangs above the dining room at Dinucci's Italian Dinners in Valley Ford, California. \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Negri’s, Occidental (1942)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3700 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental, \u003ca href=\"http://negrisrestaurant.com/\">negrisrestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134921\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-800x581.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"581\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-160x116.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-768x558.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Negri's has been an Occidental mainstay, serving family style Italian dinners for over half a century. \u003ccite>(Sonoma Heritage Collection- Sonoma County Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This family-owned Italian restaurant started as a stopover for train travelers going from San Francisco to Eureka. The restaurant lore is that the original owner, Joe Negri Sr., an Italian immigrant, was once the personal chef of movie legend Rudolph Valentino. After moving to Santa Rosa, he opened Negri’s, which has continued to serve up traditional Italian pasta dinners, many using original recipes from the 1930s, ever since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134922\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134922\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-800x526.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"526\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-800x526.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-768x505.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-1020x671.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nonni's Ravioli features house made pasta, beef, pork, swiss chard, herbs and parmesan from Negri's Italian Dinners and Joe's Bar in Occidental. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Swiss Hotel, Sonoma(1892)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>18 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3298, \u003ca href=\"http://swisshotelsonoma.com/\">swisshotelsonoma.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134923\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134923\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-800x536.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-800x536.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Swiss Hotel in Sonoma, \u003ccite>(Crista Jeremiason)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The history of Sonoma is written on the walls of this historic inn, restaurant and bar. An Italian-focused menu reflects the generations oof family ownership.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Depot Hotel, Sonoma (1985)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>241 First St. West, Sonoma, 938-2980, \u003ca href=\"http://www.depotsonoma.com/\">depotsonoma.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134924\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot-768x512.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Depot Hotel, Sonoma. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though it's a bit of a sleeper, the off-square restaurant is located inside a historic 19th-century hotel, and features a hidden pool on the outdoor patio. Owner Michael Ghilarducci and his wife founded a cooking school in1987, and now their son, Antonio is the executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>La Casa, Sonoma (1967)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>121 East Spain St., Sonoma, 996-3406, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacasarestaurant.com/\">lacasarestaurant.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134925\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134925\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tacos at La Casa. \u003ccite>(Tom Ipri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With simple, traditional Mexican food just off the Sonoma Square, La Casa has seen the transformation of this sleepy rural town into the tourist destination it is today. The restaurant was purchased in 2015 by the Sherpa Brothers Group, Nepalese restaurateurs who’ve reinvigorated several of the town’s restaurant spaces. If you go, don’t miss the margaritas.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mary's Pizza Shack, Various Locations(1959)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://maryspizzashack.com/\">maryspizzashack.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134926\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134926\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mary's Pizza Shack Mary Fazio opened her first Mary's Pizza Shack in Boyes Hot Springs in 1959. Fazio died in 1999 but her restaurant now has 18 locations all the stores remain family owned with 750 employees. \u003ccite>(Mary's Pizza Shack)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the original Boyes Springs location is gone, Mary Fazio opened her first pizzeria with her family's recipes and her own pots and pans from home. The chain has grown exponentially throughout the Bay Area with 17 locations now in business.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mac's Deli, Santa Rosa (1952)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>630 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707-545-3785, \u003ca href=\"http://macsdeliandcafe.com./\">macsdeliandcafe.com.\u003c/a> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134927\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134927\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-800x543.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"543\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-800x543.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-768x522.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-1020x693.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cup of Joe with a club sandwich from Mac's Deli in downtown Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Billing itself as the oldest continuing breakfast and sandwich cafe in Sonoma County, it was originally opened by Mac Nesmon as a New York-style deli. The Soltani family bought the place in 1970 and have been running it since. The Rueben sandwich is a can't miss.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Villa, Santa Rosa (1976)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3901 Montgomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 528-7755, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevillarestaurant.com/\">thevillarestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134928\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134928\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Great views at The Villa. \u003ccite>(The Villa )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Great views and a popular bar have made this Italian restaurant a destination for generations. The fare is right out of the 1950s, with dishes like Beef Stroganoff, Sole Dore, Veal Picatta and Scaloppine, Shrimp Louie and spaghetti and meatballs, but newer additions like pizza and risotto are also popular. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll find plenty of goombas and early bird diners (dinner starts at 3pm), along with a newer generation at Happy Hour, enjoying the hilltop gathering place.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Don Taylor’s Omelette Express, Santa Rosa (1978)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 525-1690; 150 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 838-6920, \u003ca href=\"http://www.omeletteexpress.com/\">omeletteexpress.com\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134929\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134929\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don Taylor in front of Don Taylor’s Omelette Express. \u003ccite>(Don Taylor’s Omelette Express)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find owner Don Taylor at the door of the original Santa Rosa location most weekends, welcoming generations of families who’ve made breakfast at Omelette Express a tradition. Omelettes are, of course, a best bet, but there’s plenty more on the lengthy menu, including Benedicts, burgers, sandwiches, salads and some of the best coffee in town.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>La Gare, Santa Rosa (1979)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa. \u003ca href=\"http://lagarerestaurant.com/\">lagarerestaurant.com.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134930\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134930\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-800x515.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-800x515.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-1020x656.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Gare restaurant in 2002. \u003ccite>(La Gare )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Roger Praplan relishes the fact that he’s serving the grandchildren of some of La Gare’s early customers. Praplan’s parents were early entrepreneurs in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square, purchasing their lot for $25,000 in 1977. Though dining trends have come and gone during the restaurant’s 30-plus years, Praplan stays laser-focused on the traditional French cuisine that’s made the restaurant a popular birthday, anniversary and holiday restaurant for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People always want to reinvent. Just readjust, and stick to your vision,” said Praplan.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>John Ash & Co, Santa Rosa (1980)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, \u003ca href=\"https://www.vintnersinn.com/dining/john-ash-co/\">vintnersinn.com/dining/john-ash-co/\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134931\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134931\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Ash Camp & Co, Santa Rosa \u003ccite>(John Ash & Co)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to talk about Sonoma’s longstanding food scene without paying homage to its patriarch, John Ash. What began as an idea became a revolution — using nearby produce, meats and cheeses to create wholesome, ethical, lush food and pairing it with great local wines. Though it seems almost quaint now, Ash was an early pioneer at his Montgomery Village restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Ash is no longer in the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant, some of the top chefs and winemakers (Jeffrey Madura, Dan Kosta, Michael Browne) are alums of the historic eatery. Now headed by Chef Tom Schmidt, the restaurant still holds close its original vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cattlemens, Santa Rosa and Petaluma (1968)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Locations in Santa Rosa's Montgomery Village and Petaluma, \u003ca href=\"http://cattlemens.com/\">cattlemens.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134932\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134932\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-800x549.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"549\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-800x549.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-160x110.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-768x527.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saturday dinner hour at Cattlemens in Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(Crista Jeremiason)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This family-friendly steakhouse was started by ranchers, and quickly became a go-to for giant slabs of beef, beans and the Cowpie Brownie Sundae.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Betty's Fish and Chips, Santa Rosa (1967)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>4046 Sonoma Hwy., Santa Rosa, 707-539-0899, \u003ca href=\"http://bettysfishandchips.com/\">bettysfishandchips.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134933\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134933\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-800x496.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"496\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-800x496.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-160x99.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-768x476.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-1020x632.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Betty's Fish 'n Chips is located on Sonoma Highway just east of Farmers Lane. \u003ccite>(Jeff Kan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>English-style fish and chips served up with the world's best lemon pie have been Santa Rosa favorites for more than 50 years. The restaurant got a facelift in 1996 and has continued on the tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Restaurant at Madrona Manor, Healdsburg (1981)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 433-4321, \u003ca href=\"http://www.madronamanor.com/\">madronamanor.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134934\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134934\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-800x525.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-800x525.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-768x504.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-1020x669.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Madrona Manor, a Victorian estate built in 1881. \u003ccite>(Scott Manchester)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Healdsburg has grown up, so has this once-unassuming restaurant inside this Victorian bed and breakfast. In 1999, when Bill and Trudi Konrad purchased the property, they hired Chef Jesse Mallgren. An alum of Gary Danko’s at Chateau Souverain and SF’s legendary Stars, Mallgren grew up in Sonoma County. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134935\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-800x506.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-800x506.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-768x486.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-1020x645.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vanilla Passion Roulade with raspberry gel, almond streusel, calamansi sorbet and chocolate feather from Madrona Manor in Healdsburg. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though he defines his cuisine as first and foremost local and seasonally-inspired, about 10 years ago Mallgren began pushing boundaries with molecular gastronomy techniques that include using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. “We use the best techniques with the best products,” he said. What he credits with the restaurant’s continued success: Creative control in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Free of financial and time constraints of many other chefs, Mallgren can channel his energy into a showcase tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pick's Drive In, Cloverdale (1923)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>117 S. Cloverdale Blvd. Cloverdale, 707-894-2962, \u003ca href=\"http://healdsburger.com/\">healdsburger.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134936\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134936\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-800x538.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"538\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-768x516.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-1020x686.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pick's Drive In, one of the oldest hamburger restaurants in America. \u003ccite>(Beth Schlanker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the oldest hamburger restaurants in America, this Cloverdale drive-in has been serving up beefy burgers, hot dogs and shakes for nearly a century. The restaurant was acquired by David Alioto.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tide's Wharf, Bodega Bay (1950s)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>835 Bay Hwy, Bodega Bay,707-875-3652, \u003ca href=\"http://innatthetides.com/tides-wharf-restaurant.\">innatthetides.com/tides-wharf-restaurant.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134937\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134937\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-800x549.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"549\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-800x549.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-160x110.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-768x527.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors dine and enjoy drinks outside the Inn at the Tides restaurant in Bodega Bay, California. \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Made popular by the 1960's Alfred Hitchcock movie, \"The Birds\", this Bodega seafood restaurant has been a destination for more than 50 years. Stellar views of the Bay make it a magical place for a coastal stop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134938\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-800x568.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-800x568.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-768x545.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-1020x724.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-1200x852.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric.jpg 1392w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hazel Mitchell, on the set of \"The Birds\" in Bodega Bay in 1962. A waitress at the old Tides restaurant, she served film director Alfred Hitchcock the same meal each day during the filming - a piece of sole, a lettuce leaf and a few string beans. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Blue Heron, Duncans Mills (1977)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>25275 Steelhead Blvd, Duncans Mills, 707- 865-2261, \u003ca href=\"http://blueheronrestaurant.com/\">blueheronrestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134939\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134939\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Blue Heron, Duncan Mills. \u003ccite>(The Blue Heron)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the building was originally constructed in the late 1800s, the 1906 earthquake mostly destroyed the town. In 1976, a restoration project brought the town back to life. The Blue Heron has a lengthy menu that includes local seafood, burgers, salad and chowder.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tony’s Seafood Restaurant, Marshall (1948)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>18863 Shoreline Highway, Marshall, 415-663-1107, \u003ca href=\"http://tonysseafoodrestaurant.com/\">tonysseafoodrestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134940\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134940\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-800x545.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"545\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-800x545.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-1020x695.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clam chowder at Tony’s Seafood in Marshall. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For almost 70 years, the ramshackle little fish house was a coastal favorite run by a Croatian fishing family. But by the time the restaurant changed hands in 2017, the restaurant was a fading relic from another era. After a two-year remodel by the owners of Hog Island Oyster Co., Tony’s has been reborn into a vibrant, modern seafood house with some of the best food and best views of Tomales Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>William Tell House, Tomales (1877)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>26955 CA-1, Tomales, 707-879-2002, \u003ca href=\"http://williamtellhouse.com/\">williamtellhouse.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134941\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134941\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-800x529.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"529\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-800x529.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-768x508.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-1020x674.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local friends enjoy a a drink and appetizers at the bar at the William Tell House in Tomales. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the original house burned in the early 20th century, there’s still a historic feeling to what’s been called Marin’s Oldest Bar. \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/lifestyle/10023746-181/tomales-iconic-william-tell-house\">The menu was recently expanded\u003c/a> to include locally-sourced burgers, steaks, chowder and a seafood tower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134942\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-800x453.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-800x453.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-768x435.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-1020x578.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The William Tell House in Tomales was built in 1877, and burned down in 1906. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/historic-restaurants-of-sonoma-county/?slide=59#slide-59\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the restaurant business, it’s saying something to make it through the first year, and rare to last more than ten. But in Sonoma County, there are more than a dozen that have survived well past their 30th year, and a handful which have outlasted generations of diners, stretching back more than a century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are well-worn eateries that have a proven formula. Most share a common heritage, built by Italian immigrants to the region, serving hearty family-style meals at approachable prices. It’s not a stretch to say that the farms, timber mills, railroads and vineyards of Sonoma County were built on pasta and meatballs. And maybe a steak or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We pay homage to 25 tried and true restaurants that have stood the test of time and are still going strong.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Stormy’s Spirits and Supper, Petaluma (1854)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>6650 Bloomfield Road, Petaluma, 795-0127, \u003ca href=\"http://www.stormysrestaurant.com/\">stormysrestaurant.com\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134909\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/AJ1008_STORMYSSPIRITSSUPPER_10_800304.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stormy's Spirits and Supper, in Bloomfield, California \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Established as a roadhouse, Stormy’s has hosted generations of West County diners. The restaurant turned into a steakhouse in the early 1970s, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/stormys-spirits-and-supper-still-thrives-in-bloomfield/\">remains a family-style dining destination\u003c/a> in Bloomfield.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Washoe House, Petaluma (1859)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2840 Stony Point, Petaluma, 795-4544.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134910\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134910\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-house-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Washoe House, illuminated at night. \u003ccite>(Chris Hardy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A former stagecoach stop connecting Petaluma, Santa Rosa and Bodega, this historic roadhouse is best known for two things: Dollar bills pinned to the bar ceiling and The Battle of the Washoe House. According to legend, following the 1865 assassination of Abraham Lincoln, a group of Petaluma militia were intent on creating trouble for Southern-leaning Santa Rosans. Their thirst got the best of them, and the group ended up getting drunk instead of rabble-rousing. The Washoe House was sold in 2015 to Petaluma Creamery owner Larry Peter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134911\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134911\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/washoe-dollars.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Personalized dollar bills hang from the ceiling at Washoe House in Petaluma. \u003ccite>(Beth Schlanker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Volpi’s Grocery, Petaluma (1925)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>124 Washington St., Petaluma, 762-2371.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134912\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134912\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-800x560.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-800x560.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-768x538.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-1020x714.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-1200x840.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Volpi's Ristorante and Historical Bar in Petaluma. \u003ccite>(Kent Porter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though it's operated as a grocery for most of its existence, Volpi’s major claim to fame was as a speakeasy in the 1920s. Locals know that the “secret” bar is still in operation, with a convenient escape door to the alley in case of a raid. Or your ex-wife. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134913\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134913\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-800x1057.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1057\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-800x1057.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-768x1014.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old-908x1200.jpg 908w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/volpis-old.jpg 969w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brother and sister John and Sylvia Volpi grew up in an accordion-playing family and used to play Friday and Saturday nights and for special occasions at Volpi's Ristorante and Bar in Petaluma. Sylvia passed away in 2017. \u003ccite>(Kent Porter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The grocery became a restaurant in 1992, though there’s still an old Italian grocery vibe with well-worn wooden floors and walls lined with Italian tchotchkes, accordions, and candle wax-covered chianti bottles.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pinky's Pizza, Petaluma (1962)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>321 Petaluma Blvd. South, Petaluma, 707-763-2510, \u003ca href=\"http://pinkyspizzaparlor.com/\">pinkyspizzaparlor.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134914\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134914\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/pinkys-768x512.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinky's Pizza. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A hometown classic pizza joint loved by generations of Petalumans.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Union Hotel, Occidental (1891)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3731 Main St., Occidental, 874-3555, \u003ca href=\"http://www.unionhoteloccidental.com/\">unionhoteloccidental.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134915\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134915\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-800x529.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"529\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-800x529.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-768x508.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-1020x675.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Union Hotel, in Occidental. \u003ccite>(Christopher Chung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though there are several newer locations of this classic restaurant, the Occidental restaurant has been around for more than 125 years. What began as the Union Saloon and General Store grew into a family business, with four generations managing the restaurant serving Italian dinners over the years. The bakery and cafe is packed on the weekends, and rightly so, with some of the best pastries around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134916\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134916\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic-800x637.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"637\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic-160x127.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/union-hotel-historic-768x612.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hotel staff on the porch in 1918. \u003ccite>(Sonoma Heritage Collection -- Sonoma County Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Catelli’s, Geyserville (1936)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 857-7142, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mycatellis.com/\">mycatellis.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134917\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134917\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-800x558.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"558\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-800x558.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-1020x712.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-1200x837.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis.jpg 1390w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinner in the dinning room at Catelli's The Rex restaurant in Geyserville. \u003ccite>(Catelli's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Italian immigrants Santi and Virginia Catelli opened Catelli’s “The Rex” in tiny Geyserville as an unpretentious family eatery featuring spaghetti, minestrone and ravioli. The family closed the restaurant in 1986, but it was reopened in Healdsburg, where it stood until 2004. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134918\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134918\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-800x567.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"567\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-800x567.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-768x544.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna-1020x723.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/catellis-lasagna.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Richard's meat sauce over ten layer lasagna at Catelli's in Geyserville. \u003ccite>(Jeff Kan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 2010, siblings Domenica and Nick Catelli reopened the restaurant at the original Geyserville location, where its been host to a number of celebrities, but remains an approachable family-style restaurant. Their paper-thin layers of lasagna noodles makes Catelli’s version one of the best in the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dinucci's Italian Dinners, Valley Ford (1939)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>14485 Hwy. 1, Valley Ford, 876-3260, \u003ca href=\"http://www.dinuccisrestaurant.com/\">dinuccisrestaurant.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134919\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134919\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/dinuccis.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinucci's Italian Dinners in Valley Ford, California. \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the building dates to 1908, serving train travelers, the current restaurant didn’t open until 1939. Run by Henry and Mabel Dinucci, the restaurant was a welcome stop for hearty family-style Italian dinners. The restaurant was sold to the Wagner family in 1968, but some of Mabel's recipes have stood the test of time, and are still in use today. The historic interior hasn’t changed much, with red and white checkered tablecloths right out of the 1940s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134920\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/historic-dinnucis.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A photo of owner Jeanne Garcia's mother Betty Wagner, who originally owned the restaurant with her husband, hangs above the dining room at Dinucci's Italian Dinners in Valley Ford, California. \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Negri’s, Occidental (1942)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3700 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental, \u003ca href=\"http://negrisrestaurant.com/\">negrisrestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134921\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-800x581.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"581\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-160x116.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-768x558.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Negri's has been an Occidental mainstay, serving family style Italian dinners for over half a century. \u003ccite>(Sonoma Heritage Collection- Sonoma County Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This family-owned Italian restaurant started as a stopover for train travelers going from San Francisco to Eureka. The restaurant lore is that the original owner, Joe Negri Sr., an Italian immigrant, was once the personal chef of movie legend Rudolph Valentino. After moving to Santa Rosa, he opened Negri’s, which has continued to serve up traditional Italian pasta dinners, many using original recipes from the 1930s, ever since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134922\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134922\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-800x526.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"526\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-800x526.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-768x505.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris-1020x671.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/negris.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nonni's Ravioli features house made pasta, beef, pork, swiss chard, herbs and parmesan from Negri's Italian Dinners and Joe's Bar in Occidental. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Swiss Hotel, Sonoma(1892)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>18 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707-938-3298, \u003ca href=\"http://swisshotelsonoma.com/\">swisshotelsonoma.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134923\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134923\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-800x536.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-800x536.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/swiss-hotel.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Swiss Hotel in Sonoma, \u003ccite>(Crista Jeremiason)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The history of Sonoma is written on the walls of this historic inn, restaurant and bar. An Italian-focused menu reflects the generations oof family ownership.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Depot Hotel, Sonoma (1985)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>241 First St. West, Sonoma, 938-2980, \u003ca href=\"http://www.depotsonoma.com/\">depotsonoma.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134924\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/depot-768x512.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Depot Hotel, Sonoma. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though it's a bit of a sleeper, the off-square restaurant is located inside a historic 19th-century hotel, and features a hidden pool on the outdoor patio. Owner Michael Ghilarducci and his wife founded a cooking school in1987, and now their son, Antonio is the executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>La Casa, Sonoma (1967)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>121 East Spain St., Sonoma, 996-3406, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacasarestaurant.com/\">lacasarestaurant.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134925\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134925\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-casa.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tacos at La Casa. \u003ccite>(Tom Ipri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With simple, traditional Mexican food just off the Sonoma Square, La Casa has seen the transformation of this sleepy rural town into the tourist destination it is today. The restaurant was purchased in 2015 by the Sherpa Brothers Group, Nepalese restaurateurs who’ve reinvigorated several of the town’s restaurant spaces. If you go, don’t miss the margaritas.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mary's Pizza Shack, Various Locations(1959)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://maryspizzashack.com/\">maryspizzashack.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134926\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134926\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/marys-pizza-shack.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mary's Pizza Shack Mary Fazio opened her first Mary's Pizza Shack in Boyes Hot Springs in 1959. Fazio died in 1999 but her restaurant now has 18 locations all the stores remain family owned with 750 employees. \u003ccite>(Mary's Pizza Shack)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the original Boyes Springs location is gone, Mary Fazio opened her first pizzeria with her family's recipes and her own pots and pans from home. The chain has grown exponentially throughout the Bay Area with 17 locations now in business.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mac's Deli, Santa Rosa (1952)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>630 4th St, Santa Rosa, 707-545-3785, \u003ca href=\"http://macsdeliandcafe.com./\">macsdeliandcafe.com.\u003c/a> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134927\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134927\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-800x543.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"543\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-800x543.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-768x522.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli-1020x693.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/macs-deli.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cup of Joe with a club sandwich from Mac's Deli in downtown Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Billing itself as the oldest continuing breakfast and sandwich cafe in Sonoma County, it was originally opened by Mac Nesmon as a New York-style deli. The Soltani family bought the place in 1970 and have been running it since. The Rueben sandwich is a can't miss.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Villa, Santa Rosa (1976)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3901 Montgomery Dr., Santa Rosa, 528-7755, \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevillarestaurant.com/\">thevillarestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134928\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134928\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/the-villa-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Great views at The Villa. \u003ccite>(The Villa )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Great views and a popular bar have made this Italian restaurant a destination for generations. The fare is right out of the 1950s, with dishes like Beef Stroganoff, Sole Dore, Veal Picatta and Scaloppine, Shrimp Louie and spaghetti and meatballs, but newer additions like pizza and risotto are also popular. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll find plenty of goombas and early bird diners (dinner starts at 3pm), along with a newer generation at Happy Hour, enjoying the hilltop gathering place.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Don Taylor’s Omelette Express, Santa Rosa (1978)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>112 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 525-1690; 150 Windsor River Road, Windsor, 838-6920, \u003ca href=\"http://www.omeletteexpress.com/\">omeletteexpress.com\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134929\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134929\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/omlette-express.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don Taylor in front of Don Taylor’s Omelette Express. \u003ccite>(Don Taylor’s Omelette Express)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find owner Don Taylor at the door of the original Santa Rosa location most weekends, welcoming generations of families who’ve made breakfast at Omelette Express a tradition. Omelettes are, of course, a best bet, but there’s plenty more on the lengthy menu, including Benedicts, burgers, sandwiches, salads and some of the best coffee in town.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>La Gare, Santa Rosa (1979)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>208 Wilson St., Santa Rosa. \u003ca href=\"http://lagarerestaurant.com/\">lagarerestaurant.com.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134930\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134930\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-800x515.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-800x515.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience-1020x656.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/la-gare-ambience.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Gare restaurant in 2002. \u003ccite>(La Gare )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Roger Praplan relishes the fact that he’s serving the grandchildren of some of La Gare’s early customers. Praplan’s parents were early entrepreneurs in Santa Rosa’s Railroad Square, purchasing their lot for $25,000 in 1977. Though dining trends have come and gone during the restaurant’s 30-plus years, Praplan stays laser-focused on the traditional French cuisine that’s made the restaurant a popular birthday, anniversary and holiday restaurant for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People always want to reinvent. Just readjust, and stick to your vision,” said Praplan.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>John Ash & Co, Santa Rosa (1980)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa, \u003ca href=\"https://www.vintnersinn.com/dining/john-ash-co/\">vintnersinn.com/dining/john-ash-co/\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134931\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134931\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/john-ash-co.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Ash Camp & Co, Santa Rosa \u003ccite>(John Ash & Co)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to talk about Sonoma’s longstanding food scene without paying homage to its patriarch, John Ash. What began as an idea became a revolution — using nearby produce, meats and cheeses to create wholesome, ethical, lush food and pairing it with great local wines. Though it seems almost quaint now, Ash was an early pioneer at his Montgomery Village restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Ash is no longer in the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant, some of the top chefs and winemakers (Jeffrey Madura, Dan Kosta, Michael Browne) are alums of the historic eatery. Now headed by Chef Tom Schmidt, the restaurant still holds close its original vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cattlemens, Santa Rosa and Petaluma (1968)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Locations in Santa Rosa's Montgomery Village and Petaluma, \u003ca href=\"http://cattlemens.com/\">cattlemens.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134932\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134932\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-800x549.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"549\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-800x549.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-160x110.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-768x527.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/cattlemens.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saturday dinner hour at Cattlemens in Santa Rosa. \u003ccite>(Crista Jeremiason)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This family-friendly steakhouse was started by ranchers, and quickly became a go-to for giant slabs of beef, beans and the Cowpie Brownie Sundae.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Betty's Fish and Chips, Santa Rosa (1967)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>4046 Sonoma Hwy., Santa Rosa, 707-539-0899, \u003ca href=\"http://bettysfishandchips.com/\">bettysfishandchips.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134933\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134933\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-800x496.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"496\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-800x496.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-160x99.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-768x476.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips-1020x632.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/bettys-fish-and-chips.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Betty's Fish 'n Chips is located on Sonoma Highway just east of Farmers Lane. \u003ccite>(Jeff Kan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>English-style fish and chips served up with the world's best lemon pie have been Santa Rosa favorites for more than 50 years. The restaurant got a facelift in 1996 and has continued on the tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Restaurant at Madrona Manor, Healdsburg (1981)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>1001 Westside Road, Healdsburg, 433-4321, \u003ca href=\"http://www.madronamanor.com/\">madronamanor.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134934\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134934\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-800x525.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-800x525.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-768x504.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor-1020x669.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/mardona-manor.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Madrona Manor, a Victorian estate built in 1881. \u003ccite>(Scott Manchester)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Healdsburg has grown up, so has this once-unassuming restaurant inside this Victorian bed and breakfast. In 1999, when Bill and Trudi Konrad purchased the property, they hired Chef Jesse Mallgren. An alum of Gary Danko’s at Chateau Souverain and SF’s legendary Stars, Mallgren grew up in Sonoma County. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134935\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134935\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-800x506.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-800x506.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-768x486.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona-1020x645.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/fancy-madrona.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vanilla Passion Roulade with raspberry gel, almond streusel, calamansi sorbet and chocolate feather from Madrona Manor in Healdsburg. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though he defines his cuisine as first and foremost local and seasonally-inspired, about 10 years ago Mallgren began pushing boundaries with molecular gastronomy techniques that include using liquid nitrogen to make ice cream. “We use the best techniques with the best products,” he said. What he credits with the restaurant’s continued success: Creative control in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Free of financial and time constraints of many other chefs, Mallgren can channel his energy into a showcase tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pick's Drive In, Cloverdale (1923)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>117 S. Cloverdale Blvd. Cloverdale, 707-894-2962, \u003ca href=\"http://healdsburger.com/\">healdsburger.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134936\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134936\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-800x538.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"538\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-768x516.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in-1020x686.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/picks-drive-in.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pick's Drive In, one of the oldest hamburger restaurants in America. \u003ccite>(Beth Schlanker)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the oldest hamburger restaurants in America, this Cloverdale drive-in has been serving up beefy burgers, hot dogs and shakes for nearly a century. The restaurant was acquired by David Alioto.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tide's Wharf, Bodega Bay (1950s)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>835 Bay Hwy, Bodega Bay,707-875-3652, \u003ca href=\"http://innatthetides.com/tides-wharf-restaurant.\">innatthetides.com/tides-wharf-restaurant.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134937\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134937\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-800x549.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"549\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-800x549.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-160x110.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-768x527.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf-1020x700.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-wharf.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors dine and enjoy drinks outside the Inn at the Tides restaurant in Bodega Bay, California. \u003ccite>(Alvin Jornada)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Made popular by the 1960's Alfred Hitchcock movie, \"The Birds\", this Bodega seafood restaurant has been a destination for more than 50 years. Stellar views of the Bay make it a magical place for a coastal stop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134938\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134938\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-800x568.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-800x568.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-768x545.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-1020x724.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric-1200x852.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tides-histroric.jpg 1392w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hazel Mitchell, on the set of \"The Birds\" in Bodega Bay in 1962. A waitress at the old Tides restaurant, she served film director Alfred Hitchcock the same meal each day during the filming - a piece of sole, a lettuce leaf and a few string beans. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Blue Heron, Duncans Mills (1977)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>25275 Steelhead Blvd, Duncans Mills, 707- 865-2261, \u003ca href=\"http://blueheronrestaurant.com/\">blueheronrestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134939\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134939\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/blue-heron.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Blue Heron, Duncan Mills. \u003ccite>(The Blue Heron)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the building was originally constructed in the late 1800s, the 1906 earthquake mostly destroyed the town. In 1976, a restoration project brought the town back to life. The Blue Heron has a lengthy menu that includes local seafood, burgers, salad and chowder.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tony’s Seafood Restaurant, Marshall (1948)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>18863 Shoreline Highway, Marshall, 415-663-1107, \u003ca href=\"http://tonysseafoodrestaurant.com/\">tonysseafoodrestaurant.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134940\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134940\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-800x545.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"545\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-800x545.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam-1020x695.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tonys-clam.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Clam chowder at Tony’s Seafood in Marshall. \u003ccite>(Heather Irwin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For almost 70 years, the ramshackle little fish house was a coastal favorite run by a Croatian fishing family. But by the time the restaurant changed hands in 2017, the restaurant was a fading relic from another era. After a two-year remodel by the owners of Hog Island Oyster Co., Tony’s has been reborn into a vibrant, modern seafood house with some of the best food and best views of Tomales Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>William Tell House, Tomales (1877)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>26955 CA-1, Tomales, 707-879-2002, \u003ca href=\"http://williamtellhouse.com/\">williamtellhouse.com\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134941\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134941\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-800x529.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"529\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-800x529.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-768x508.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house-1020x674.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/william-tell-house.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local friends enjoy a a drink and appetizers at the bar at the William Tell House in Tomales. \u003ccite>(John Burgess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the original house burned in the early 20th century, there’s still a historic feeling to what’s been called Marin’s Oldest Bar. \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/lifestyle/10023746-181/tomales-iconic-william-tell-house\">The menu was recently expanded\u003c/a> to include locally-sourced burgers, steaks, chowder and a seafood tower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134942\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-800x453.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-800x453.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-160x91.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-768x435.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic-1020x578.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/tell-house-historic.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The William Tell House in Tomales was built in 1877, and burned down in 1906. \u003ccite>(Biteclub)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomamag.com/historic-restaurants-of-sonoma-county/?slide=59#slide-59\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Andrew Zimmern, Tanya Holland and More Gather to Discuss Change in the Culinary Industry",
"title": "Andrew Zimmern, Tanya Holland and More Gather to Discuss Change in the Culinary Industry",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_132814,bayareabites_125020' target=_blank label='More on Brown Sugar Kitchen']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was how Maryam Ahmed, the Culinary Institute of America’s Director of Public Programs, opened “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>,” the live talk series hosted by James Beard Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://andrewzimmern.com/\">Andrew Zimmern\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Held at downtown Napa’s Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, September 7th’s discussion entitled “Culture & Cuisine” included panelists Rick Bayless of \u003ca href=\"https://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/\">Frontera Grill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>’s Tayna Holland, \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>'s program manager Emiliana Puyana, and “The Cooking Gene” author \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Michael Twitty\u003c/a>. Over roughly 90 minutes, each esteemed food expert attempted to answer the question “What does it mean to be authentic and who gets to cook what?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About halfway through, Zimmern repeated those opening words. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg\" alt='\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center).' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center). \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>White males, no surprise there, have predominantly held that power—specifically the white males cooking French and Italian cuisine. The cuisine that’s the most revered, the “most respected, elevated of cuisines,” as Holland put it. “You’re thought of as an expert if you can cook those cuisines.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it doesn’t take much to look back at America’s culinary history and see that people of color were predominantly the ones in the kitchen. If one looked even a bit further, those people were revered for their unique cooking styles just as much as the white men cooking French and Italian are today.\u003cbr>\n[pullquote size='medium' align='left' citation='Andrew Zimmern']'Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.'[/pullquote]\u003cbr>\n“People, going back hundreds of years, have always created a mythology around who is cooking our food,” said Zimmern. “But for the vast majority of restaurants in this nation, the food we consume is done by people of color. A lot of that is based on maintaining the current power structure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs on CIA’s stage built their culinary careers by cooking a cuisine that doesn’t tell the same story as everyone else. Their journey hasn’t been pretty; there’s been no “baton being passed,” as Holland put it, to lead them to culinary glory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg\" alt='Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134845\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I had not seen a lot of people who looked like me cook the food I wanted, where the food, room, and service was elevated,” said Holland.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_120369,bayareabites_94637' target=_blank label='More from Michael Twitty']\u003cbr>\nHolland has elevated the cuisine she knows and loves—specifically modern soul—but it hasn’t been easy. She made a home for her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, in Oakland in part because it was the only neighborhood where landlords would rent to her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t matter that she had 20 years of experience, she explained to the packed crowd; it only seemed to matter that she didn’t have restaurant experience—or that’s what she was told. Today, Holland still isn’t where she wants to be but she strives to get there so that the next generation can look to her for guidance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Holland, Twitty has an uphill battle ahead to reach, what he says, his goal to become the “first black colonial antebellum masterchef since slavery.” Why? A black child born in America won’t have “the same resources passed down to [them as white people]. And even if you do come from money, your dollar is not worth that of a white man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/young-guns-rising-stars/2019/7/11/20688135/american-culinary-schools-problem-french-curriculum\">The (Mis)education of America’s culinary schools\u003c/a>,” writer Korsha Wilson asks why culinary schools like the CIA aren’t spending more time diving into regional cuisines like they do the traditional ones. “If you think about what it takes to make a mole sauce, or what it takes to make gumbo, it’s still the same level of time commitment and technique and expertise [as French and Italian cuisine], so why isn’t it valued in the same way?” asked Holland.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='la-cocina' label='More About La Cocina' num='2' target=_blank align='left']\u003cbr>\nOutside of the kitchen, equilibrium in the food world can only happen when our society stops assigning a certain price tag or level of service with only one type of cuisine but not another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is unfairly priced in America,” adds Zimmern. “and it’s designed to maintain an underclass.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elevated cuisine can’t just have a decorated or celebrated chef cooking it; the diner also needs to accept the lengthy food journey attached with each pretty plate. “For a strawberry to end up on your plate, it’s passed through many hands,” Puyana reminded everyone. “We need to accept the fact that food needs to cost more. And when we’re paying more for a pretty plate, we aren’t just paying for the design but paying for the labor that brought it to you.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is powerful, yes. But it’s only as powerful as the diners, cooking community, food media, and chefs deems worthy. Part of this series isn’t just about spotlighting the work needed to find harmony within the kitchen, but also educating guests about the inequality in today’s food history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners accept that all cuisine is worthy of elevating, food equilibrium will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>--- \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>” will be held on October 26 featuring Daniel Giusti of Brigaid, Matt Jozwiak from Rethink Food NYC, and Michel Nischan from Wholesome Wave. The final event in the series will be on December 7 around the topic “Setting the Equity Table.” \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "At the inaugural “Conversations at Copia,” Andrew Zimmern, Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty and Emiliana Puyana discussed food equity in and out of the kitchen.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was how Maryam Ahmed, the Culinary Institute of America’s Director of Public Programs, opened “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>,” the live talk series hosted by James Beard Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://andrewzimmern.com/\">Andrew Zimmern\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Held at downtown Napa’s Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia, September 7th’s discussion entitled “Culture & Cuisine” included panelists Rick Bayless of \u003ca href=\"https://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/frontera-grill/\">Frontera Grill\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>’s Tayna Holland, \u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>'s program manager Emiliana Puyana, and “The Cooking Gene” author \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Michael Twitty\u003c/a>. Over roughly 90 minutes, each esteemed food expert attempted to answer the question “What does it mean to be authentic and who gets to cook what?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About halfway through, Zimmern repeated those opening words. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is power. And history tells us that those who have that power want to keep it.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134842\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg\" alt='\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center).' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/22Conversations-at-Copia22-panelists_Emily-Johnston-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Conversations at Copia\" panelists (left to right) Tanya Holland, Rick Bayless, Michael Twitty, and Emiliana Puyana with host Andrew Zimmern (center). \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>White males, no surprise there, have predominantly held that power—specifically the white males cooking French and Italian cuisine. The cuisine that’s the most revered, the “most respected, elevated of cuisines,” as Holland put it. “You’re thought of as an expert if you can cook those cuisines.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it doesn’t take much to look back at America’s culinary history and see that people of color were predominantly the ones in the kitchen. If one looked even a bit further, those people were revered for their unique cooking styles just as much as the white men cooking French and Italian are today.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“People, going back hundreds of years, have always created a mythology around who is cooking our food,” said Zimmern. “But for the vast majority of restaurants in this nation, the food we consume is done by people of color. A lot of that is based on maintaining the current power structure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chefs on CIA’s stage built their culinary careers by cooking a cuisine that doesn’t tell the same story as everyone else. Their journey hasn’t been pretty; there’s been no “baton being passed,” as Holland put it, to lead them to culinary glory. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg\" alt='Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134845\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/conversations-at-copia-panel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern moderated the first live talk series \"Conversations at Copia\" on September 7, 2019. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I had not seen a lot of people who looked like me cook the food I wanted, where the food, room, and service was elevated,” said Holland.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nHolland has elevated the cuisine she knows and loves—specifically modern soul—but it hasn’t been easy. She made a home for her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen, in Oakland in part because it was the only neighborhood where landlords would rent to her. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It didn’t matter that she had 20 years of experience, she explained to the packed crowd; it only seemed to matter that she didn’t have restaurant experience—or that’s what she was told. Today, Holland still isn’t where she wants to be but she strives to get there so that the next generation can look to her for guidance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Holland, Twitty has an uphill battle ahead to reach, what he says, his goal to become the “first black colonial antebellum masterchef since slavery.” Why? A black child born in America won’t have “the same resources passed down to [them as white people]. And even if you do come from money, your dollar is not worth that of a white man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In “\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/young-guns-rising-stars/2019/7/11/20688135/american-culinary-schools-problem-french-curriculum\">The (Mis)education of America’s culinary schools\u003c/a>,” writer Korsha Wilson asks why culinary schools like the CIA aren’t spending more time diving into regional cuisines like they do the traditional ones. “If you think about what it takes to make a mole sauce, or what it takes to make gumbo, it’s still the same level of time commitment and technique and expertise [as French and Italian cuisine], so why isn’t it valued in the same way?” asked Holland.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nOutside of the kitchen, equilibrium in the food world can only happen when our society stops assigning a certain price tag or level of service with only one type of cuisine but not another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is unfairly priced in America,” adds Zimmern. “and it’s designed to maintain an underclass.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elevated cuisine can’t just have a decorated or celebrated chef cooking it; the diner also needs to accept the lengthy food journey attached with each pretty plate. “For a strawberry to end up on your plate, it’s passed through many hands,” Puyana reminded everyone. “We need to accept the fact that food needs to cost more. And when we’re paying more for a pretty plate, we aren’t just paying for the design but paying for the labor that brought it to you.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134844\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134844\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/Andrew-Zimmern_Rick-Bayless-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Zimmern listens on as Rick Bayless answers a question from the crowd. \u003ccite>(Emily Johnston)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Food is powerful, yes. But it’s only as powerful as the diners, cooking community, food media, and chefs deems worthy. Part of this series isn’t just about spotlighting the work needed to find harmony within the kitchen, but also educating guests about the inequality in today’s food history. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once diners accept that all cuisine is worthy of elevating, food equilibrium will come. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>--- \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next “\u003ca href=\"https://www.ciaatcopia.com/conversations-at-copia/\">Conversations at Copia\u003c/a>” will be held on October 26 featuring Daniel Giusti of Brigaid, Matt Jozwiak from Rethink Food NYC, and Michel Nischan from Wholesome Wave. The final event in the series will be on December 7 around the topic “Setting the Equity Table.” \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack",
"title": "The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134687,bayareabites_133932' target=_ label='More Food History']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year marks 300 years since the publication of Daniel Defoe's blockbuster novel \u003cem>Robinson Crusoe. \u003c/em>And while its hero is rightly hailed as fiction's most famous castaway, he can just as equally stake his claim to another — more culinary — title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robinson Crusoe: patron saint of the kitchen hack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the man who grew, ground and baked his own organic, artisanal bread from scratch — with nary a Kitchenaid mixer in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age when we are drowning in kitchen gizmos — whether it's a waterwheel-shaped device to cube a watermelon or a pint-sized mill to mince your herbs or a steel pot with buttons that promises Michelin magic — it's inspiring to recall the Herculean story of Crusoe's bread making and celebrate the kind of ingenuity it embodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shipwrecked on a deserted island, Crusoe has no plow, no scythe, no threshing floor, no mill, no sieve, no oven. No problem. Driven by desperation, he comes up with tools and methods to turn his precious store of corn into freshly baked loaves: a bough of a tree is his harrow and a cutlass his scythe; he uses his bare hands to rub the kernels from the ears for want of a threshing floor; a mortar and pestle scooped from tree wood serve as a mill; calico and muslin neckcloths retrieved from his ship sift the coarse meal; and as for an oven — that seemingly insurmountable hurdle — rough clay pans handcrafted by him work just fine. This is jerry-riggery at its finest, and results in what to him is the most delicious loaf of bread in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1838px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg\" alt=\"Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available.\" width=\"1838\" height=\"2451\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg 1838w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1838px) 100vw, 1838px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available. \u003ccite>(Buyenlarge/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Crusoe spirit is hardly unique. Throughout history, cooks across cultures have invented ways to overcome a lack of conventional cooking tools. This is especially true in conditions of war, captivity, scarcity – and student housing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America may be the cradle of the pointless gizmo but it is also the land, as food historian Frederick Opie reminds us, of the hoe cake — those crisp discs of cornbread supposedly named after the blade of the hoe on which they were baked by enslaved men and women forced to work the cotton fields of the South. \"They simply cleaned off their hoes, poured batter on it and baked their bread,\" says Opie. \"They were also known to use clam and oyster shells as knives; they sharpened them and used them to cut and grate vegetables.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vessels were scarce, but the humble gourd proved wonderfully versatile. In his memoir \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/45631/45631-h/45631-h.htm\">\u003cem>Twelve Years a Slave\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Solomon Northup sings its praise for dispensing \"with the necessity of pails, dippers, basins, and such tin and wooden superfluities altogether.\" During WWI, the Salvation Army women sent to France as part of the war effort \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/07/189514005/on-national-doughnut-day-free-food-and-feel-good-history\">churned out thousands of donuts for the GIs\u003c/a>, initially using shell casings for rolling pins and helmets filled with lard to fry braided crullers. They were a sensation with the soldiers, who dubbed them the \"Donut Lassies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spirit of innovation was recently saluted by food critic Ruth Reichl in a piece for \u003cem>Real Simple \u003c/em>magazine, where she called out the Great American Kitchen, with its \"battery of arcane appliances,\" as something of a hoax. (\"Utter nonsense\" was how she politely put it.) Reichl joyously recalled how she and her husband made do when they were young and penniless: a bottle of cheap wine was used to roll out pastry and — charmingly — discarded ceramic flower pots were called into service to bake cakes and bread. Theirs was a small, dishwasher-free kitchen with scavenged pallets for counters, but one full of music and happiness, hungry friends and good meals. \"I'm convinced I invented the microplane,\" Reichl jokes. \"When I needed to grate Parmesan, I riffled through my husband's tool box and borrowed his rasp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern cooking legend Edna Lewis would have smiled in approval. Ingenuity and thrift were values she was raised on, growing up as she did during the Depression on a farm in Freetown, Va., a town established by emancipated slaves. When she died in 2006, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/14/us/edna-lewis-89-dies-wrote-cookbooks-that-revived-refined-southern-cuisine.html\">New York Times obituary\u003c/a> noted, \"Without fancy cooking equipment, the family improvised, measuring baking powder on coins.\" Nothing was bought from the store if something at home could do the job. Buying specialized jelly bags (used to strain fruit for jelly-making) was out of the question. \"I always use the washed and bleached-out bags that Virginia hams come in, and you can also use the bags that hold popcorn rice,\" Lewis writes in \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pursuit-Flavor-Edna-Lewis/dp/0525655514/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=in+pursuit+of+flavor&qid=1568319551&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>In Pursuit of Flavor\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Just wash them well and hang them in the sun to dry and bleach.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lewis also described how, even in the summer, meat could be kept cold in a contraption called a \"spring box\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Because we had no electricity, fresh meat was not refrigerated, but we could store it and other perishables for a few days in the spring box, even during the hottest weeks of the summer. The spring box was a covered wooden box set over the run-off stream from the spring. It had holes in both ends so that a tiny trickle of cold, clear spring water passed through it and kept any food stored inside perfectly cold ... My aunt, who had a well for water rather than a spring, would put food in the bucket and keep it cold by lowering it down the well.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"I love the Edna Lewis story about refrigeration,\" says Nashville baker and author Anne Byrn, who has improvised all her life. \"I have used a sharp paring knife to cut slivers of lemon zest when there's no zester on a photo shoot, and I know the visual tests for candy making in case there's no thermometer around,\" she says. \"This has completely frustrated my husband, John, a lover of gadgets, especially because I tossed out his red plastic shrimp deveiner when we were first married. I thought, Who needs this when you've got a sharp paring knife? ... But, I bought him a replacement!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her book \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/American-Cake-Colonial-Gingerbread-Best-Loved/dp/1623365430/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=american+cake&qid=1568319514&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>American Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> Byrn notes that Shaker women used peach twigs to whisk egg whites in the forlorn hope that it would impart a peachy flavor to the meringue. \"The Shakers were truly innovative as well as minimalists,\" she says. \"They cared for nature, and it's no small coincidence that their contribution to cooking has been the lemon pie in which you use the entire lemon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Byrn's forthcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Skillet-Love-Steak-Recipes-Cast-Iron/dp/1538763184\">Skillet Love\u003c/a>, is a tribute to the pan that does everything. \"It's perfect for people who like to improvise and are gadget-weary. It can pound chicken flat into cutlets. And now it is my new go-to pan for baking cakes. A pound cake baked in a cast-iron skillet has a crunchy exterior and the most tender interior crumb. And oh ... while we're talking about baking, cooks used tin cans to stamp out biscuits and cookies. Which is why tin cookie cutters cut the best! \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Empty tins are a hacker's best friend. Ask the renowned chef of Italian food, Lidia Bastianich. \"For baking, I always have four empty tomato cans, cleaned, and I use them to prop up a hot baking sheet coming out of the oven to cool,\" she says. For British chef Jamie Oliver, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/02/chefs-favourite-kitchen-gadgets-equipment\">an empty jam jar\u003c/a> is his gadget \u003cem>du jour\u003c/em>. \"Super-cheap and super-useful, for anything from salad dressings and salsas to storing pulses and spices.\" One more use for the jam jar? It's the hipster's vessel of choice for drinking over-hopped, overpriced craft beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fertile nursery of innovation is the prison. \"I've done recent work with prisoners and have been simply amazed by the things they come up with,\" says Opie, who has a fascinating podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">\u003cem>Joint Genius, Prison Pop Ups and Moonshine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">.\u003c/a> \"In one prison, there is a commissary where inmates can buy a hot pot, something to heat food but not cook or boil in — since boiling water can be used as a weapon. But there are a couple of prisoners who are really clever and they simply rewired those pots and now they use them to cook and boil food. It's amazing. They also use their T-shirts as a sieve to make all kinds of alcoholic beverages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The T-shirt-as-sieve hack recalls Crusoe's neckcloth-as-sieve one. The bottle-as-rolling pin trick, of course, is hardly new, and Reichl will be pleased to know that when Gandhi was imprisoned by the British in 1932 during the Indian freedom struggle, he and his secretary, Mahadev Desai, used a glass bottle to roll out thin rotis (unleavened bread) when the jail warder didn't have a rolling pin handy. Opie calls these innovations \"universal ways of surviving.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If neckcloths, T-shirts, cutlasses and rasps can be pressed into service in the kitchen, kitchen products, too, can be called upon for non-culinary purposes. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebertinetkitchen.com/\">Richard Bertinet\u003c/a> says his scraper is indispensable \"for cleaning the car windscreen in winter,\" while Fergus Henderson gets lyrical about the wooden spoon: \"You can stir food, spank those who need spanking, conduct [an orchestra]. ...\" If one were to rewind all the way back to the Crusades, there is the Englishwoman named Margaret of Beverly, who defended herself in Jerusalem by\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>clapping a saucepan on her head for a helmet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In America, one of the most enduring icons of re-use is the feedsack dress, a fashionable garment that grew out of the hard years of the Depression, when creative rural housewives refashioned \u003ca href=\"https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1105750\">feed sacks\u003c/a> and flour bags to make clothes, curtains, towels and quilts for their families. Frugality aside, creating something beautiful out of ordinary packaging gave these women a sense of pride and joy that helped lighten those bleak years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food magazines and YouTube recognize this spirit and are constantly coming up with useful tips, whether it is using a wine stopper to make thumbprint cookies; a cooling rack to steam veggies; or a shower cap to cover a dish instead of fiddly plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who love hacks, gadgets are simply an impediment. To quote the Scottish poet Kathleen Jamie from another context, they have \"no more need of those implements than a deer has, browsing in a glade.\" The great Elizabeth David's rant against the \u003ca href=\"https://www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk/blog/2017/3/garlic-presses-are-utterly-useless-by-elizabeth-david\">\"utterly useless\" garlic press\u003c/a> — that most divisive of all kitchen gadgets — is now legendary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are other great chefs — Julia Child and James Beard among them — who love gadgets. Beard's joy on first encountering a food processor in Paris — he played a key role in making the Cuisinart processor a commercial success; it was a flop before he and Julia Child championed it — is perfectly understandable. The food processor, like the refrigerator, was life-changing, liberating cooks (mainly women) from the drudgery of chopping and grinding. But Beard also tended to get gulled by the flood of new and improved devices entering the market, and his editor Judith Jones complained bitterly about Corningware installing smooth-as-glass burners in his kitchen, which may have looked svelte but were as \"slow as molasses to heat up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all his love of gadgets, Beard knew that the most intelligent and sensuous tool in the kitchen was the human hand. \"Hands are our earliest tools,\" he said. \"Cooking starts with the hands, which are so sensitive that when they touch something, they transmit messages to your brain about texture and temperature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gadget debate will last forever, but most cooks will raise their glass to the one gadget that's simply indispensable. Poet Wendy Cope captured its profound importance when she wrote:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The day he moved out was terrible --\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> That evening she went through hell.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> His absence wasn't a problem\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> But the corkscrew had gone as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/17/760236914/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What would Robinson Crusoe have done with a watermelon cuber? His spirit of ingenuity lives on in the kitchen, as inventive cooks still think beyond the norm of conventional kitchen tools.",
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"description": "What would Robinson Crusoe have done with a watermelon cuber? His spirit of ingenuity lives on in the kitchen, as inventive cooks still think beyond the norm of conventional kitchen tools.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year marks 300 years since the publication of Daniel Defoe's blockbuster novel \u003cem>Robinson Crusoe. \u003c/em>And while its hero is rightly hailed as fiction's most famous castaway, he can just as equally stake his claim to another — more culinary — title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robinson Crusoe: patron saint of the kitchen hack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the man who grew, ground and baked his own organic, artisanal bread from scratch — with nary a Kitchenaid mixer in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age when we are drowning in kitchen gizmos — whether it's a waterwheel-shaped device to cube a watermelon or a pint-sized mill to mince your herbs or a steel pot with buttons that promises Michelin magic — it's inspiring to recall the Herculean story of Crusoe's bread making and celebrate the kind of ingenuity it embodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shipwrecked on a deserted island, Crusoe has no plow, no scythe, no threshing floor, no mill, no sieve, no oven. No problem. Driven by desperation, he comes up with tools and methods to turn his precious store of corn into freshly baked loaves: a bough of a tree is his harrow and a cutlass his scythe; he uses his bare hands to rub the kernels from the ears for want of a threshing floor; a mortar and pestle scooped from tree wood serve as a mill; calico and muslin neckcloths retrieved from his ship sift the coarse meal; and as for an oven — that seemingly insurmountable hurdle — rough clay pans handcrafted by him work just fine. This is jerry-riggery at its finest, and results in what to him is the most delicious loaf of bread in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1838px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg\" alt=\"Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available.\" width=\"1838\" height=\"2451\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg 1838w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1838px) 100vw, 1838px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available. \u003ccite>(Buyenlarge/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Crusoe spirit is hardly unique. Throughout history, cooks across cultures have invented ways to overcome a lack of conventional cooking tools. This is especially true in conditions of war, captivity, scarcity – and student housing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America may be the cradle of the pointless gizmo but it is also the land, as food historian Frederick Opie reminds us, of the hoe cake — those crisp discs of cornbread supposedly named after the blade of the hoe on which they were baked by enslaved men and women forced to work the cotton fields of the South. \"They simply cleaned off their hoes, poured batter on it and baked their bread,\" says Opie. \"They were also known to use clam and oyster shells as knives; they sharpened them and used them to cut and grate vegetables.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vessels were scarce, but the humble gourd proved wonderfully versatile. In his memoir \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/45631/45631-h/45631-h.htm\">\u003cem>Twelve Years a Slave\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Solomon Northup sings its praise for dispensing \"with the necessity of pails, dippers, basins, and such tin and wooden superfluities altogether.\" During WWI, the Salvation Army women sent to France as part of the war effort \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/07/189514005/on-national-doughnut-day-free-food-and-feel-good-history\">churned out thousands of donuts for the GIs\u003c/a>, initially using shell casings for rolling pins and helmets filled with lard to fry braided crullers. They were a sensation with the soldiers, who dubbed them the \"Donut Lassies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spirit of innovation was recently saluted by food critic Ruth Reichl in a piece for \u003cem>Real Simple \u003c/em>magazine, where she called out the Great American Kitchen, with its \"battery of arcane appliances,\" as something of a hoax. (\"Utter nonsense\" was how she politely put it.) Reichl joyously recalled how she and her husband made do when they were young and penniless: a bottle of cheap wine was used to roll out pastry and — charmingly — discarded ceramic flower pots were called into service to bake cakes and bread. Theirs was a small, dishwasher-free kitchen with scavenged pallets for counters, but one full of music and happiness, hungry friends and good meals. \"I'm convinced I invented the microplane,\" Reichl jokes. \"When I needed to grate Parmesan, I riffled through my husband's tool box and borrowed his rasp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern cooking legend Edna Lewis would have smiled in approval. Ingenuity and thrift were values she was raised on, growing up as she did during the Depression on a farm in Freetown, Va., a town established by emancipated slaves. When she died in 2006, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/14/us/edna-lewis-89-dies-wrote-cookbooks-that-revived-refined-southern-cuisine.html\">New York Times obituary\u003c/a> noted, \"Without fancy cooking equipment, the family improvised, measuring baking powder on coins.\" Nothing was bought from the store if something at home could do the job. Buying specialized jelly bags (used to strain fruit for jelly-making) was out of the question. \"I always use the washed and bleached-out bags that Virginia hams come in, and you can also use the bags that hold popcorn rice,\" Lewis writes in \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pursuit-Flavor-Edna-Lewis/dp/0525655514/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=in+pursuit+of+flavor&qid=1568319551&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>In Pursuit of Flavor\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Just wash them well and hang them in the sun to dry and bleach.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lewis also described how, even in the summer, meat could be kept cold in a contraption called a \"spring box\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Because we had no electricity, fresh meat was not refrigerated, but we could store it and other perishables for a few days in the spring box, even during the hottest weeks of the summer. The spring box was a covered wooden box set over the run-off stream from the spring. It had holes in both ends so that a tiny trickle of cold, clear spring water passed through it and kept any food stored inside perfectly cold ... My aunt, who had a well for water rather than a spring, would put food in the bucket and keep it cold by lowering it down the well.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"I love the Edna Lewis story about refrigeration,\" says Nashville baker and author Anne Byrn, who has improvised all her life. \"I have used a sharp paring knife to cut slivers of lemon zest when there's no zester on a photo shoot, and I know the visual tests for candy making in case there's no thermometer around,\" she says. \"This has completely frustrated my husband, John, a lover of gadgets, especially because I tossed out his red plastic shrimp deveiner when we were first married. I thought, Who needs this when you've got a sharp paring knife? ... But, I bought him a replacement!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her book \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/American-Cake-Colonial-Gingerbread-Best-Loved/dp/1623365430/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=american+cake&qid=1568319514&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>American Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> Byrn notes that Shaker women used peach twigs to whisk egg whites in the forlorn hope that it would impart a peachy flavor to the meringue. \"The Shakers were truly innovative as well as minimalists,\" she says. \"They cared for nature, and it's no small coincidence that their contribution to cooking has been the lemon pie in which you use the entire lemon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Byrn's forthcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Skillet-Love-Steak-Recipes-Cast-Iron/dp/1538763184\">Skillet Love\u003c/a>, is a tribute to the pan that does everything. \"It's perfect for people who like to improvise and are gadget-weary. It can pound chicken flat into cutlets. And now it is my new go-to pan for baking cakes. A pound cake baked in a cast-iron skillet has a crunchy exterior and the most tender interior crumb. And oh ... while we're talking about baking, cooks used tin cans to stamp out biscuits and cookies. Which is why tin cookie cutters cut the best! \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Empty tins are a hacker's best friend. Ask the renowned chef of Italian food, Lidia Bastianich. \"For baking, I always have four empty tomato cans, cleaned, and I use them to prop up a hot baking sheet coming out of the oven to cool,\" she says. For British chef Jamie Oliver, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/02/chefs-favourite-kitchen-gadgets-equipment\">an empty jam jar\u003c/a> is his gadget \u003cem>du jour\u003c/em>. \"Super-cheap and super-useful, for anything from salad dressings and salsas to storing pulses and spices.\" One more use for the jam jar? It's the hipster's vessel of choice for drinking over-hopped, overpriced craft beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fertile nursery of innovation is the prison. \"I've done recent work with prisoners and have been simply amazed by the things they come up with,\" says Opie, who has a fascinating podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">\u003cem>Joint Genius, Prison Pop Ups and Moonshine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">.\u003c/a> \"In one prison, there is a commissary where inmates can buy a hot pot, something to heat food but not cook or boil in — since boiling water can be used as a weapon. But there are a couple of prisoners who are really clever and they simply rewired those pots and now they use them to cook and boil food. It's amazing. They also use their T-shirts as a sieve to make all kinds of alcoholic beverages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The T-shirt-as-sieve hack recalls Crusoe's neckcloth-as-sieve one. The bottle-as-rolling pin trick, of course, is hardly new, and Reichl will be pleased to know that when Gandhi was imprisoned by the British in 1932 during the Indian freedom struggle, he and his secretary, Mahadev Desai, used a glass bottle to roll out thin rotis (unleavened bread) when the jail warder didn't have a rolling pin handy. Opie calls these innovations \"universal ways of surviving.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If neckcloths, T-shirts, cutlasses and rasps can be pressed into service in the kitchen, kitchen products, too, can be called upon for non-culinary purposes. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebertinetkitchen.com/\">Richard Bertinet\u003c/a> says his scraper is indispensable \"for cleaning the car windscreen in winter,\" while Fergus Henderson gets lyrical about the wooden spoon: \"You can stir food, spank those who need spanking, conduct [an orchestra]. ...\" If one were to rewind all the way back to the Crusades, there is the Englishwoman named Margaret of Beverly, who defended herself in Jerusalem by\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>clapping a saucepan on her head for a helmet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In America, one of the most enduring icons of re-use is the feedsack dress, a fashionable garment that grew out of the hard years of the Depression, when creative rural housewives refashioned \u003ca href=\"https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1105750\">feed sacks\u003c/a> and flour bags to make clothes, curtains, towels and quilts for their families. Frugality aside, creating something beautiful out of ordinary packaging gave these women a sense of pride and joy that helped lighten those bleak years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food magazines and YouTube recognize this spirit and are constantly coming up with useful tips, whether it is using a wine stopper to make thumbprint cookies; a cooling rack to steam veggies; or a shower cap to cover a dish instead of fiddly plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who love hacks, gadgets are simply an impediment. To quote the Scottish poet Kathleen Jamie from another context, they have \"no more need of those implements than a deer has, browsing in a glade.\" The great Elizabeth David's rant against the \u003ca href=\"https://www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk/blog/2017/3/garlic-presses-are-utterly-useless-by-elizabeth-david\">\"utterly useless\" garlic press\u003c/a> — that most divisive of all kitchen gadgets — is now legendary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are other great chefs — Julia Child and James Beard among them — who love gadgets. Beard's joy on first encountering a food processor in Paris — he played a key role in making the Cuisinart processor a commercial success; it was a flop before he and Julia Child championed it — is perfectly understandable. The food processor, like the refrigerator, was life-changing, liberating cooks (mainly women) from the drudgery of chopping and grinding. But Beard also tended to get gulled by the flood of new and improved devices entering the market, and his editor Judith Jones complained bitterly about Corningware installing smooth-as-glass burners in his kitchen, which may have looked svelte but were as \"slow as molasses to heat up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all his love of gadgets, Beard knew that the most intelligent and sensuous tool in the kitchen was the human hand. \"Hands are our earliest tools,\" he said. \"Cooking starts with the hands, which are so sensitive that when they touch something, they transmit messages to your brain about texture and temperature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gadget debate will last forever, but most cooks will raise their glass to the one gadget that's simply indispensable. Poet Wendy Cope captured its profound importance when she wrote:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The day he moved out was terrible --\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> That evening she went through hell.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> His absence wasn't a problem\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> But the corkscrew had gone as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/17/760236914/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "American Suburb: The Podcast",
"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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},
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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},
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},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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},
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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},
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
},
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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