Stephen Colbert’s Long Goodbye Is Coming to an End, Leaving a Void
June’s Pizza Is Oakland’s Favorite Late-Night Slice Shop
This North Bay Taqueria Is Your New Destination for Late-Night Fried Fish Tacos
Santa Clara’s Tastiest Charcoal-Grilled Korean Barbecue Spot Stays Open Until Midnight
Harry’s Hofbrau Is a Late-Night Throwback for $20 Steak Dinners
In Oakland, This Nigerian Spot Serves Amazing Late-Night Oxtails and Jollof Rice
SF’s Most Legendary Chicken Phở Is Now Available Until 3 a.m.
Revisiting Smokehouse, a Berkeley Classic for Late-Night Burgers and Shakes
This Gas Station Food Truck Serves Amazing Kyrgyz Street Food in Santa Clara
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"title": "Stephen Colbert’s Long Goodbye Is Coming to an End, Leaving a Void",
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"content": "\u003cp>On his very first time hosting \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> back in 2015, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/tag/stephen-colbert\">Stephen Colbert\u003c/a> ripped into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/donald-trump\">Donald Trump \u003c/a>while gorging on Oreos, likening his inability to resist the cookies to his inability to resist going after the then-presidential candidate.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“Look, you don’t own me. I don’t need to play tape of you to have a successful TV show,” he warned an image of Trump. “Someone on television should have a modicum of dignity and it could be me.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Over the next 11 years, Colbert couldn’t curb his appetite for making Trump barbs, often turning his show into a full-throated rebuke of MAGA policies. Trump would call him a “dead man walking.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>The on-air feud between the two men seemingly ends Thursday as Colbert’s top-rated late-night TV program goes off the air for the final time, effectively silencing a high-profile White House critic.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“The legacy of this show needs to be that we remember it as the show that was canceled because a presidential administration wanted it off the air,” says Heather Hendershot, a professor of communication studies and journalism at Northwestern University. “We haven’t connected every single dot on that, but it’s very clear that this was a political decision. And I think 20, 30, 40 years later, that is going to be strongly remembered about this show — that this was a moment of authoritarian triumph.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">When comedy and politics collide\u003c/h2>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>When CBS announced last summer that Colbert’s show would end in May, the network said it was for economic reasons but others — including Colbert — have expressed skepticism that Trump’s repeated criticism of the show had nothing to do with it.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cancellation came after CBS parent company Paramount agreed to pay $16 million to settle Trump’s lawsuit over a \u003cem>60 Minutes\u003c/em> interview, as Paramount’s sale to Skydance Media awaited the Trump administration’s approval. Colbert had called the settlement a “big fat bribe.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Trump rejoiced over the cancellation in a Truth Social post, writing “I absolutely love” that the host “got fired.” He followed it with: “I hear Jimmy Kimmel is next.” Just two months later, ABC, buckling to pressure from Trump’s Federal Communications Commission chair and affiliate networks, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13981592/hundreds-of-stars-sign-letter-defending-free-speech-after-kimmel-suspension\">temporarily suspended Kimmel\u003c/a> — the host of its own late-night show — following his remarks about the assassination of conservative activist Charlie Kirk.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>TV experts said there are not many other examples of a hit show being shuttered due to political pressure. In 1969, CBS abruptly canceled \u003cem>The Smothers Brothers Comedy Hour\u003c/em>, which had aired comedy bits in opposition of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/vietnam-war\">Vietnam War\u003c/a> and in support of civil rights.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Colbert, a \u003cem>Daily Show\u003c/em> alum, spent nine years playing a buffoonish, conservative commentator on Comedy Central’s \u003cem>The Colbert Report\u003c/em>. He was not universally welcomed to \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> by those he had lampooned, with Rush Limbaugh saying “CBS has just declared war on the heartland of America.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Through Democratic and Republican administrations, Colbert and other late-night comedians have offered their take on the day’s events that offered something different from traditional news media.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“In given moments, like when something big happened, you really do want that perspective that says, ‘Here’s another way to look at it,’” says Dustin Kidd, a professor of sociology at Temple University. “Or when it feels really overwhelming, you want that reminder that there’s still some way to laugh at it. And so the more you lose those ways to laugh at it, the more we all decline.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"wp-block-image\">\n\u003cfigure class=\"aligncenter size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1335\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png\" alt=\"Four middle aged white men in suits laugh together sitting side-by-side on a grey couch in a late night TV studio. To their right, the host - another middle aged white man - claps his hands and laughs from behind a large desk labeled LATE SHOW.\" class=\"wp-image-13990043\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-768x513.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-1536x1025.png 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Stephen Colbert communes with fellow late night hosts on May 11, 2025. (L-R): Jimmy Kimmel, Seth Meyers, John Oliver and Jimmy Fallon. (Scott Kowalchyk/CBS via AP.)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/div>\n\n\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u003cstrong>Colbert put his own spin on late night\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> had celebrities, musical guests and jokes about Arby’s and Spirit Airlines, like other late-night shows. But Colbert put his own spin on things, like wearing his Catholic faith and his adoration of his wife and frequent guest, Evie McGee Colbert, on his sleeve.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>After the monologue, he had oddball segments like “Meanwhile,” a look at global affairs in “What’s Going On Over There?,” technology with “Cyborgasm” and youth slang in “Stephen Colbert Presents: That’s Yeet. Dabbing on Fleek, Fam!”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, which began in 1993 with host David Letterman, won two Emmys under Colbert, as well as a Peabody Award. Come Friday, the 11:35 p.m. time slot goes to \u003cem>Comics Unleashed\u003c/em>, a talk show that host Byron Allen has vowed will eschew politics.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“There’s just going to be a huge void,” says Lisa Rogak, the author of the 2011 biography \u003cem>And Nothing But the Truthiness: The Rise (and Further Rise) of Stephen Colbert\u003c/em>. “And I don’t think anybody’s going to really want to step up and fill it.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Among those sorry to see Colbert go is astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson, a frequent guest. Johnny Carson used to book scientists, but Tyson notes wryly that not many TV hosts do these days. Colbert even had a segment highlighting new discoveries called “The Sound of Science.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“Science doesn’t have many opportunities to access centerline pop culture,” says Tyson.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>In a departure from the infighting of decades ago, other late-night hosts have rallied around Colbert. Kimmel, Jimmy Fallon, John Oliver and Seth Meyers — who hosted the \u003cem>Strike Force Five\u003c/em> podcast with Colbert during the Hollywood strikes — visited \u003cem>The Late Show \u003c/em>recently.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>NBC’s \u003cem>The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon\u003c/em> and ABC’s \u003cem>Jimmy Kimmel Live!\u003c/em>, which typically air against \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, will instead broadcast reruns on Thursday.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u003cstrong>Catholics and Tolkien fans mourn, too\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Catholics will also mourn the loss of a late-night host who could quote Psalms by heart and who brought up issues of faith with guests and even what happens when we die with “The Colbert Questionert.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“We’re losing a very well-known Catholic and someone who shares his religious ideas freely and intellectually, too,” says Stephanie Brehm, author of \u003cem>America’s Most Famous Catholic (According to Himself): Stephen Colbert and American Religion in the Twenty-First Century\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>She pointed to poignant moments like Colbert’s chat with then-Vice President \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/joe-biden\">Joe Biden\u003c/a> about the death of his son, his discussion of grief with Anderson Cooper and his exploration of the relationship between faith and comedy with Dua Lipa.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Brehm saw Colbert make himself into a sort of moral authority and lean into the social justice camp of progressive Catholics: “He is playing up that moral quality by standing up for American moral values like freedom of speech, freedom of expression, and he’s doing it with a Catholic jargon, with Catholic language.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Then there are devotees of author J.R.R. Tolkien. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFRIjR-yimI\">Colbert is a superfan\u003c/a> of \u003cem>The Hobbit\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> and championed Tolkien in skits, references and competitions, memorably smoking James Franco in a few throwdowns.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I think if you step back and reflect on his career, everything he’s done is for the betterment of the community,” says Duane Cronkite, head of live programming for the Fellowship of Fans forum and news site.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Timothy Lenz, part of the leadership committee of The Mythopoeic Society, a group dedicated to the study and appreciation of Tolkien, says Colbert inspired new readers.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“Stephen Colbert is easily the most enthusiastic celebrity fan of Tolkien’s works,” he says. “That sort of public, unapologetic enthusiasm for stories that in Colbert’s youth would have been considered like nerdy and uncool, that really helps to encourage fans of all ages to let their geek flag fly.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Tolkien, fittingly, offers a next step for Colbert after his show goes dark. He’s co-writing a new \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> movie.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“He’s living the fan dream right now,” says Lenz.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>On his very first time hosting \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> back in 2015, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/tag/stephen-colbert\">Stephen Colbert\u003c/a> ripped into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/donald-trump\">Donald Trump \u003c/a>while gorging on Oreos, likening his inability to resist the cookies to his inability to resist going after the then-presidential candidate.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>On his very first time hosting \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> back in 2015, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/tag/stephen-colbert\">Stephen Colbert\u003c/a> ripped into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/donald-trump\">Donald Trump \u003c/a>while gorging on Oreos, likening his inability to resist the cookies to his inability to resist going after the then-presidential candidate.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“Look, you don’t own me. I don’t need to play tape of you to have a successful TV show,” he warned an image of Trump. “Someone on television should have a modicum of dignity and it could be me.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“Look, you don’t own me. I don’t need to play tape of you to have a successful TV show,” he warned an image of Trump. “Someone on television should have a modicum of dignity and it could be me.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Over the next 11 years, Colbert couldn’t curb his appetite for making Trump barbs, often turning his show into a full-throated rebuke of MAGA policies. Trump would call him a “dead man walking.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Over the next 11 years, Colbert couldn’t curb his appetite for making Trump barbs, often turning his show into a full-throated rebuke of MAGA policies. Trump would call him a “dead man walking.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>The on-air feud between the two men seemingly ends Thursday as Colbert’s top-rated late-night TV program goes off the air for the final time, effectively silencing a high-profile White House critic.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>The on-air feud between the two men seemingly ends Thursday as Colbert’s top-rated late-night TV program goes off the air for the final time, effectively silencing a high-profile White House critic.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“The legacy of this show needs to be that we remember it as the show that was canceled because a presidential administration wanted it off the air,” says Heather Hendershot, a professor of communication studies and journalism at Northwestern University. “We haven’t connected every single dot on that, but it’s very clear that this was a political decision. And I think 20, 30, 40 years later, that is going to be strongly remembered about this show — that this was a moment of authoritarian triumph.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“The legacy of this show needs to be that we remember it as the show that was canceled because a presidential administration wanted it off the air,” says Heather Hendershot, a professor of communication studies and journalism at Northwestern University. “We haven’t connected every single dot on that, but it’s very clear that this was a political decision. And I think 20, 30, 40 years later, that is going to be strongly remembered about this show — that this was a moment of authoritarian triumph.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>When CBS announced last summer that Colbert’s show would end in May, the network said it was for economic reasons but others — including Colbert — have expressed skepticism that Trump’s repeated criticism of the show had nothing to do with it.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>When CBS announced last summer that Colbert’s show would end in May, the network said it was for economic reasons but others — including Colbert — have expressed skepticism that Trump’s repeated criticism of the show had nothing to do with it.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>The cancellation came after CBS parent company Paramount agreed to pay $16 million to settle Trump’s lawsuit over a \u003cem>60 Minutes\u003c/em> interview, as Paramount’s sale to Skydance Media awaited the Trump administration’s approval. Colbert had called the settlement a “big fat bribe.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>The cancellation came after CBS parent company Paramount agreed to pay $16 million to settle Trump’s lawsuit over a \u003cem>60 Minutes\u003c/em> interview, as Paramount’s sale to Skydance Media awaited the Trump administration’s approval. Colbert had called the settlement a “big fat bribe.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Trump rejoiced over the cancellation in a Truth Social post, writing “I absolutely love” that the host “got fired.” He followed it with: “I hear Jimmy Kimmel is next.” Just two months later, ABC, buckling to pressure from Trump’s Federal Communications Commission chair and affiliate networks, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13981592/hundreds-of-stars-sign-letter-defending-free-speech-after-kimmel-suspension\">temporarily suspended Kimmel\u003c/a> — the host of its own late-night show — following his remarks about the assassination of conservative activist Charlie Kirk.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Trump rejoiced over the cancellation in a Truth Social post, writing “I absolutely love” that the host “got fired.” He followed it with: “I hear Jimmy Kimmel is next.” Just two months later, ABC, buckling to pressure from Trump’s Federal Communications Commission chair and affiliate networks, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13981592/hundreds-of-stars-sign-letter-defending-free-speech-after-kimmel-suspension\">temporarily suspended Kimmel\u003c/a> — the host of its own late-night show — following his remarks about the assassination of conservative activist Charlie Kirk.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>TV experts said there are not many other examples of a hit show being shuttered due to political pressure. In 1969, CBS abruptly canceled \u003cem>The Smothers Brothers Comedy Hour\u003c/em>, which had aired comedy bits in opposition of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/vietnam-war\">Vietnam War\u003c/a> and in support of civil rights.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>TV experts said there are not many other examples of a hit show being shuttered due to political pressure. In 1969, CBS abruptly canceled \u003cem>The Smothers Brothers Comedy Hour\u003c/em>, which had aired comedy bits in opposition of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/vietnam-war\">Vietnam War\u003c/a> and in support of civil rights.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Colbert, a \u003cem>Daily Show\u003c/em> alum, spent nine years playing a buffoonish, conservative commentator on Comedy Central’s \u003cem>The Colbert Report\u003c/em>. He was not universally welcomed to \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> by those he had lampooned, with Rush Limbaugh saying “CBS has just declared war on the heartland of America.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Colbert, a \u003cem>Daily Show\u003c/em> alum, spent nine years playing a buffoonish, conservative commentator on Comedy Central’s \u003cem>The Colbert Report\u003c/em>. He was not universally welcomed to \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> by those he had lampooned, with Rush Limbaugh saying “CBS has just declared war on the heartland of America.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Through Democratic and Republican administrations, Colbert and other late-night comedians have offered their take on the day’s events that offered something different from traditional news media.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Through Democratic and Republican administrations, Colbert and other late-night comedians have offered their take on the day’s events that offered something different from traditional news media.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“In given moments, like when something big happened, you really do want that perspective that says, ‘Here’s another way to look at it,’” says Dustin Kidd, a professor of sociology at Temple University. “Or when it feels really overwhelming, you want that reminder that there’s still some way to laugh at it. And so the more you lose those ways to laugh at it, the more we all decline.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“In given moments, like when something big happened, you really do want that perspective that says, ‘Here’s another way to look at it,’” says Dustin Kidd, a professor of sociology at Temple University. “Or when it feels really overwhelming, you want that reminder that there’s still some way to laugh at it. And so the more you lose those ways to laugh at it, the more we all decline.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"srcset": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-768x513.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-1536x1025.png 1536w",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\">\u003cimg src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png\" alt=\"Four middle aged white men in suits laugh together sitting side-by-side on a grey couch in a late night TV studio. To their right, the host - another middle aged white man - claps his hands and laughs from behind a large desk labeled LATE SHOW.\" class=\"wp-image-13990043\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-768x513.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-1536x1025.png 1536w\" sizes=\"(min-width: 992px) min(100vw, 1536px), (min-width: 768px) min(100vw, 1280px), min(100vw, 1020px)\" />\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Stephen Colbert communes with fellow late night hosts on May 11, 2025. (L-R): Jimmy Kimmel, Seth Meyers, John Oliver and Jimmy Fallon. \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n",
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"\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-block-image aligncenter size-full\">\u003cimg src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png\" alt=\"Four middle aged white men in suits laugh together sitting side-by-side on a grey couch in a late night TV studio. To their right, the host - another middle aged white man - claps his hands and laughs from behind a large desk labeled LATE SHOW.\" class=\"wp-image-13990043\" />\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Stephen Colbert communes with fellow late night hosts on May 11, 2025. (L-R): Jimmy Kimmel, Seth Meyers, John Oliver and Jimmy Fallon. \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n"
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"text": "Colbert put his own spin on late night",
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"\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u003cstrong>Colbert put his own spin on late night\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> had celebrities, musical guests and jokes about Arby’s and Spirit Airlines, like other late-night shows. But Colbert put his own spin on things, like wearing his Catholic faith and his adoration of his wife and frequent guest, Evie McGee Colbert, on his sleeve.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> had celebrities, musical guests and jokes about Arby’s and Spirit Airlines, like other late-night shows. But Colbert put his own spin on things, like wearing his Catholic faith and his adoration of his wife and frequent guest, Evie McGee Colbert, on his sleeve.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>After the monologue, he had oddball segments like “Meanwhile,” a look at global affairs in “What’s Going On Over There?,” technology with “Cyborgasm” and youth slang in “Stephen Colbert Presents: That’s Yeet. Dabbing on Fleek, Fam!”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>After the monologue, he had oddball segments like “Meanwhile,” a look at global affairs in “What’s Going On Over There?,” technology with “Cyborgasm” and youth slang in “Stephen Colbert Presents: That’s Yeet. Dabbing on Fleek, Fam!”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, which began in 1993 with host David Letterman, won two Emmys under Colbert, as well as a Peabody Award. Come Friday, the 11:35 p.m. time slot goes to \u003cem>Comics Unleashed\u003c/em>, a talk show that host Byron Allen has vowed will eschew politics.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, which began in 1993 with host David Letterman, won two Emmys under Colbert, as well as a Peabody Award. Come Friday, the 11:35 p.m. time slot goes to \u003cem>Comics Unleashed\u003c/em>, a talk show that host Byron Allen has vowed will eschew politics.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“There’s just going to be a huge void,” says Lisa Rogak, the author of the 2011 biography \u003cem>And Nothing But the Truthiness: The Rise (and Further Rise) of Stephen Colbert\u003c/em>. “And I don’t think anybody’s going to really want to step up and fill it.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“There’s just going to be a huge void,” says Lisa Rogak, the author of the 2011 biography \u003cem>And Nothing But the Truthiness: The Rise (and Further Rise) of Stephen Colbert\u003c/em>. “And I don’t think anybody’s going to really want to step up and fill it.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Among those sorry to see Colbert go is astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson, a frequent guest. Johnny Carson used to book scientists, but Tyson notes wryly that not many TV hosts do these days. Colbert even had a segment highlighting new discoveries called “The Sound of Science.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Among those sorry to see Colbert go is astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson, a frequent guest. Johnny Carson used to book scientists, but Tyson notes wryly that not many TV hosts do these days. Colbert even had a segment highlighting new discoveries called “The Sound of Science.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“Science doesn’t have many opportunities to access centerline pop culture,” says Tyson.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“Science doesn’t have many opportunities to access centerline pop culture,” says Tyson.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>In a departure from the infighting of decades ago, other late-night hosts have rallied around Colbert. Kimmel, Jimmy Fallon, John Oliver and Seth Meyers — who hosted the \u003cem>Strike Force Five\u003c/em> podcast with Colbert during the Hollywood strikes — visited \u003cem>The Late Show \u003c/em>recently.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>In a departure from the infighting of decades ago, other late-night hosts have rallied around Colbert. Kimmel, Jimmy Fallon, John Oliver and Seth Meyers — who hosted the \u003cem>Strike Force Five\u003c/em> podcast with Colbert during the Hollywood strikes — visited \u003cem>The Late Show \u003c/em>recently.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>NBC’s \u003cem>The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon\u003c/em> and ABC’s \u003cem>Jimmy Kimmel Live!\u003c/em>, which typically air against \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, will instead broadcast reruns on Thursday.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>NBC’s \u003cem>The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon\u003c/em> and ABC’s \u003cem>Jimmy Kimmel Live!\u003c/em>, which typically air against \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, will instead broadcast reruns on Thursday.\u003c/p>\n"
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"text": "Catholics and Tolkien fans mourn, too",
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Catholics will also mourn the loss of a late-night host who could quote Psalms by heart and who brought up issues of faith with guests and even what happens when we die with “The Colbert Questionert.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Catholics will also mourn the loss of a late-night host who could quote Psalms by heart and who brought up issues of faith with guests and even what happens when we die with “The Colbert Questionert.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“We’re losing a very well-known Catholic and someone who shares his religious ideas freely and intellectually, too,” says Stephanie Brehm, author of \u003cem>America’s Most Famous Catholic (According to Himself): Stephen Colbert and American Religion in the Twenty-First Century\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“We’re losing a very well-known Catholic and someone who shares his religious ideas freely and intellectually, too,” says Stephanie Brehm, author of \u003cem>America’s Most Famous Catholic (According to Himself): Stephen Colbert and American Religion in the Twenty-First Century\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>She pointed to poignant moments like Colbert’s chat with then-Vice President \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/joe-biden\">Joe Biden\u003c/a> about the death of his son, his discussion of grief with Anderson Cooper and his exploration of the relationship between faith and comedy with Dua Lipa.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>She pointed to poignant moments like Colbert’s chat with then-Vice President \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/joe-biden\">Joe Biden\u003c/a> about the death of his son, his discussion of grief with Anderson Cooper and his exploration of the relationship between faith and comedy with Dua Lipa.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Brehm saw Colbert make himself into a sort of moral authority and lean into the social justice camp of progressive Catholics: “He is playing up that moral quality by standing up for American moral values like freedom of speech, freedom of expression, and he’s doing it with a Catholic jargon, with Catholic language.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Brehm saw Colbert make himself into a sort of moral authority and lean into the social justice camp of progressive Catholics: “He is playing up that moral quality by standing up for American moral values like freedom of speech, freedom of expression, and he’s doing it with a Catholic jargon, with Catholic language.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Then there are devotees of author J.R.R. Tolkien. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFRIjR-yimI\">Colbert is a superfan\u003c/a> of \u003cem>The Hobbit\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> and championed Tolkien in skits, references and competitions, memorably smoking James Franco in a few throwdowns.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Then there are devotees of author J.R.R. Tolkien. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFRIjR-yimI\">Colbert is a superfan\u003c/a> of \u003cem>The Hobbit\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> and championed Tolkien in skits, references and competitions, memorably smoking James Franco in a few throwdowns.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“I think if you step back and reflect on his career, everything he’s done is for the betterment of the community,” says Duane Cronkite, head of live programming for the Fellowship of Fans forum and news site.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“I think if you step back and reflect on his career, everything he’s done is for the betterment of the community,” says Duane Cronkite, head of live programming for the Fellowship of Fans forum and news site.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Timothy Lenz, part of the leadership committee of The Mythopoeic Society, a group dedicated to the study and appreciation of Tolkien, says Colbert inspired new readers.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Timothy Lenz, part of the leadership committee of The Mythopoeic Society, a group dedicated to the study and appreciation of Tolkien, says Colbert inspired new readers.\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>“Stephen Colbert is easily the most enthusiastic celebrity fan of Tolkien’s works,” he says. “That sort of public, unapologetic enthusiasm for stories that in Colbert’s youth would have been considered like nerdy and uncool, that really helps to encourage fans of all ages to let their geek flag fly.”\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>“Stephen Colbert is easily the most enthusiastic celebrity fan of Tolkien’s works,” he says. “That sort of public, unapologetic enthusiasm for stories that in Colbert’s youth would have been considered like nerdy and uncool, that really helps to encourage fans of all ages to let their geek flag fly.”\u003c/p>\n"
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"innerHTML": "\n\u003cp>Tolkien, fittingly, offers a next step for Colbert after his show goes dark. He’s co-writing a new \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> movie.\u003c/p>\n",
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"\n\u003cp>Tolkien, fittingly, offers a next step for Colbert after his show goes dark. He’s co-writing a new \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> movie.\u003c/p>\n"
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On his very first time hosting \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> back in 2015, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/tag/stephen-colbert\">Stephen Colbert\u003c/a> ripped into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/donald-trump\">Donald Trump \u003c/a>while gorging on Oreos, likening his inability to resist the cookies to his inability to resist going after the then-presidential candidate.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“Look, you don’t own me. I don’t need to play tape of you to have a successful TV show,” he warned an image of Trump. “Someone on television should have a modicum of dignity and it could be me.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Over the next 11 years, Colbert couldn’t curb his appetite for making Trump barbs, often turning his show into a full-throated rebuke of MAGA policies. Trump would call him a “dead man walking.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>The on-air feud between the two men seemingly ends Thursday as Colbert’s top-rated late-night TV program goes off the air for the final time, effectively silencing a high-profile White House critic.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“The legacy of this show needs to be that we remember it as the show that was canceled because a presidential administration wanted it off the air,” says Heather Hendershot, a professor of communication studies and journalism at Northwestern University. “We haven’t connected every single dot on that, but it’s very clear that this was a political decision. And I think 20, 30, 40 years later, that is going to be strongly remembered about this show — that this was a moment of authoritarian triumph.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">When comedy and politics collide\u003c/h2>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>When CBS announced last summer that Colbert’s show would end in May, the network said it was for economic reasons but others — including Colbert — have expressed skepticism that Trump’s repeated criticism of the show had nothing to do with it.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cancellation came after CBS parent company Paramount agreed to pay $16 million to settle Trump’s lawsuit over a \u003cem>60 Minutes\u003c/em> interview, as Paramount’s sale to Skydance Media awaited the Trump administration’s approval. Colbert had called the settlement a “big fat bribe.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Trump rejoiced over the cancellation in a Truth Social post, writing “I absolutely love” that the host “got fired.” He followed it with: “I hear Jimmy Kimmel is next.” Just two months later, ABC, buckling to pressure from Trump’s Federal Communications Commission chair and affiliate networks, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13981592/hundreds-of-stars-sign-letter-defending-free-speech-after-kimmel-suspension\">temporarily suspended Kimmel\u003c/a> — the host of its own late-night show — following his remarks about the assassination of conservative activist Charlie Kirk.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>TV experts said there are not many other examples of a hit show being shuttered due to political pressure. In 1969, CBS abruptly canceled \u003cem>The Smothers Brothers Comedy Hour\u003c/em>, which had aired comedy bits in opposition of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/vietnam-war\">Vietnam War\u003c/a> and in support of civil rights.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Colbert, a \u003cem>Daily Show\u003c/em> alum, spent nine years playing a buffoonish, conservative commentator on Comedy Central’s \u003cem>The Colbert Report\u003c/em>. He was not universally welcomed to \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> by those he had lampooned, with Rush Limbaugh saying “CBS has just declared war on the heartland of America.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Through Democratic and Republican administrations, Colbert and other late-night comedians have offered their take on the day’s events that offered something different from traditional news media.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“In given moments, like when something big happened, you really do want that perspective that says, ‘Here’s another way to look at it,’” says Dustin Kidd, a professor of sociology at Temple University. “Or when it feels really overwhelming, you want that reminder that there’s still some way to laugh at it. And so the more you lose those ways to laugh at it, the more we all decline.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\u003cdiv class=\"wp-block-image\">\n\u003cfigure class=\"aligncenter size-full\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1335\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png\" alt=\"Four middle aged white men in suits laugh together sitting side-by-side on a grey couch in a late night TV studio. To their right, the host - another middle aged white man - claps his hands and laughs from behind a large desk labeled LATE SHOW.\" class=\"wp-image-13990043\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show.png 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-160x107.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-768x513.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/late-show-1536x1025.png 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Stephen Colbert communes with fellow late night hosts on May 11, 2025. (L-R): Jimmy Kimmel, Seth Meyers, John Oliver and Jimmy Fallon. (Scott Kowalchyk/CBS via AP.)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/div>\n\n\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u003cstrong>Colbert put his own spin on late night\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em> had celebrities, musical guests and jokes about Arby’s and Spirit Airlines, like other late-night shows. But Colbert put his own spin on things, like wearing his Catholic faith and his adoration of his wife and frequent guest, Evie McGee Colbert, on his sleeve.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>After the monologue, he had oddball segments like “Meanwhile,” a look at global affairs in “What’s Going On Over There?,” technology with “Cyborgasm” and youth slang in “Stephen Colbert Presents: That’s Yeet. Dabbing on Fleek, Fam!”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, which began in 1993 with host David Letterman, won two Emmys under Colbert, as well as a Peabody Award. Come Friday, the 11:35 p.m. time slot goes to \u003cem>Comics Unleashed\u003c/em>, a talk show that host Byron Allen has vowed will eschew politics.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“There’s just going to be a huge void,” says Lisa Rogak, the author of the 2011 biography \u003cem>And Nothing But the Truthiness: The Rise (and Further Rise) of Stephen Colbert\u003c/em>. “And I don’t think anybody’s going to really want to step up and fill it.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Among those sorry to see Colbert go is astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson, a frequent guest. Johnny Carson used to book scientists, but Tyson notes wryly that not many TV hosts do these days. Colbert even had a segment highlighting new discoveries called “The Sound of Science.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“Science doesn’t have many opportunities to access centerline pop culture,” says Tyson.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>In a departure from the infighting of decades ago, other late-night hosts have rallied around Colbert. Kimmel, Jimmy Fallon, John Oliver and Seth Meyers — who hosted the \u003cem>Strike Force Five\u003c/em> podcast with Colbert during the Hollywood strikes — visited \u003cem>The Late Show \u003c/em>recently.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>NBC’s \u003cem>The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon\u003c/em> and ABC’s \u003cem>Jimmy Kimmel Live!\u003c/em>, which typically air against \u003cem>The Late Show\u003c/em>, will instead broadcast reruns on Thursday.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003ch2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u003cstrong>Catholics and Tolkien fans mourn, too\u003c/strong>\u003c/h2>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Catholics will also mourn the loss of a late-night host who could quote Psalms by heart and who brought up issues of faith with guests and even what happens when we die with “The Colbert Questionert.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“We’re losing a very well-known Catholic and someone who shares his religious ideas freely and intellectually, too,” says Stephanie Brehm, author of \u003cem>America’s Most Famous Catholic (According to Himself): Stephen Colbert and American Religion in the Twenty-First Century\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>She pointed to poignant moments like Colbert’s chat with then-Vice President \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/joe-biden\">Joe Biden\u003c/a> about the death of his son, his discussion of grief with Anderson Cooper and his exploration of the relationship between faith and comedy with Dua Lipa.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Brehm saw Colbert make himself into a sort of moral authority and lean into the social justice camp of progressive Catholics: “He is playing up that moral quality by standing up for American moral values like freedom of speech, freedom of expression, and he’s doing it with a Catholic jargon, with Catholic language.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Then there are devotees of author J.R.R. Tolkien. \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFRIjR-yimI\">Colbert is a superfan\u003c/a> of \u003cem>The Hobbit\u003c/em> and \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> and championed Tolkien in skits, references and competitions, memorably smoking James Franco in a few throwdowns.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“I think if you step back and reflect on his career, everything he’s done is for the betterment of the community,” says Duane Cronkite, head of live programming for the Fellowship of Fans forum and news site.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Timothy Lenz, part of the leadership committee of The Mythopoeic Society, a group dedicated to the study and appreciation of Tolkien, says Colbert inspired new readers.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>“Stephen Colbert is easily the most enthusiastic celebrity fan of Tolkien’s works,” he says. “That sort of public, unapologetic enthusiasm for stories that in Colbert’s youth would have been considered like nerdy and uncool, that really helps to encourage fans of all ages to let their geek flag fly.”\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>Tolkien, fittingly, offers a next step for Colbert after his show goes dark. He’s co-writing a new \u003cem>Lord of the Rings\u003c/em> movie.\u003c/p>\n\n\n\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989677\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989677\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring pizza. There's a pile of basil leaves on the pan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June’s Pizza sells margherita slices — and sometimes pepperoni slices — from 9 p.m. to midnight, or until it sells out. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we pull up to the unmarked \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/west-oakland\">West Oakland\u003c/a> warehouse at a little past 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, there’s already a long line out the door. It’s a big, semi-industrial building — all exposed pipes and corrugated metal. The only signage to indicate that this is a place of business is an old, spray-painted wood board propped up on the ground: “June’s Pizza,” it reads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has emerged, somewhat unexpectedly, as one of the most celebrated pizza restaurants in the Bay Area on the back of its wood-fired, decadently cheese-strewn margherita pies. The pizzeria got plenty of acclaim during its renegade, early-COVID-era days as an unpermitted (and eventually \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/Oakland-s-pandemic-pizza-sensation-June-s-has-16513631.php\">shut down\u003c/a>) shipping container pop-up. Last year, after its brick-and-mortar opened on Mandela Parkway, \u003ci>Esquire \u003c/i>even named it one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a69501755/best-new-restaurants-america-2025/\">best new restaurants\u003c/a> in the entire country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the reason we decided to make this pilgrimage now is because we heard — also somewhat unexpectedly — that the place has become one of the East Bay’s most popular late-night restaurants. Unexpected in the sense that June’s really only sells one thing between the hours of 9 p.m. and midnight: margherita pizza by the slice. That’s it. Nothing else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Would that be enough to hold our wandering eyes? We had been a bit skeptical. But by the time we finish our meal, we’re hard-pressed to think of anything \u003ci>more \u003c/i>perfect to eat at the end of a long night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has become something of a destination restaurant for out-of-town visitors. But during its late-night hours, the place feels more like a locals’ hangout. Maybe a DJ is spinning records, or maybe the restaurant’s hosting a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DL6tw4mOljf/\">listening party for a new rap album\u003c/a>. But the overall vibe is akin to a big, convivial house party hosted in someone’s high-ceilinged living room. On the night of our visit, the crowd feels quintessentially Oakland — racially diverse, skewing toward twenty- and thirtysomething artistic types. At the table next to ours, a group of chic Asian Americans in designer eyeglasses chatters happily over their marg slices and a bottle of red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989679\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989679\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: the exterior of a warehouse-like restaurant, where several customers wait in line. On the ground, a handwritten sign reads, "June's Pizza."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The buzzy West Oakland restaurant is located in an unmarked warehouse on a semi-industrial stretch of Mandela Parkway. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>June’s is proof that giving the customer \u003ci>fewer \u003c/i>choices is sometimes the smartest move. Even during non-late-night hours, the restaurant only ever sells three types of pizza: margherita, pepperoni and a limited quantity of whatever seasonal special they’ve come up with that week (say, fingerling potatoes, green garlic and ham). There are no salads, no cute little appetizers, no bread sticks, no desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And after 9 p.m., when June’s starts serving slices, the menu winnows down even further. Most nights, they only offer the margherita, which could scarcely be simpler — just cheese and tomato sauce with a stack of super-fresh basil leaves on the side, so you can top each slice as you please. The kitchen’s signature move is sprinkling the bejesus out of every pizza with a flurry of grated parmesan, covering the whole surface with a feathery umami dust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first bite is blistering hot, super crispy at the thin tip, and soft and melty on top. We love the interplay between the bright red sauce, salty cheese and well-blistered crust. The dough has just a hint of sourdough tang, and it puffs up and gets chewier and more flavorful as we get closer to the crust, offering different textures from bite to bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13988856,arts_13959808,arts_13987415']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>We fold our slices in half, New York–style, and dip the crusts in the restaurant’s housemade sauces — an earthy roasted garlic number and a tangy, “limited edition” wakame Caesar dressing that has a strong anchovy umami punch. (That one is so good, I bring the leftovers home to make a helluva delicious salad the next day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One slice in, we understand perfectly now why June’s doesn’t offer a bunch of different pizzas, because this is a taste that we would never get tired of — one we could come back to week after week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tonight is our lucky night, though, because the restaurant is also selling pepperoni slices, which aren’t always available. These have an entirely different vibe, despite being built on the same base as the margherita — the pizza is much richer and more intensely flavored, and has a surprisingly spicy kick from the small, dense rounds of pepperoni.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, the success of June’s is a testament to the power of doing one thing really, really well. The lack of bells and whistles also helps keep the after-hours menu relatively affordable. Slices are $5 ($6 for pepperoni), and they’re big. Most diners won’t wind up eating more than two or three in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only danger? Not long after we arrive, we overhear the chef telling a customer that they only have three balls of raw dough left. By a little after 10 o’clock, there are maybe three pizzas’ worth of slices left, and it seems quite likely that they’re going to sell out before the hour is out. So as we head out into the night, we make plans to come back soon for another late-night pizza session — but maybe not \u003ci>too \u003c/i>late, to be safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/junes_pizza/\">June’s Pizza\u003c/a> is open 4 p.m.–midnight daily at 2408 Mandela Pkwy. in Oakland. The restaurant serves slices only starting at 9 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989677\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989677\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring pizza. There's a pile of basil leaves on the pan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June’s Pizza sells margherita slices — and sometimes pepperoni slices — from 9 p.m. to midnight, or until it sells out. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we pull up to the unmarked \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/west-oakland\">West Oakland\u003c/a> warehouse at a little past 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, there’s already a long line out the door. It’s a big, semi-industrial building — all exposed pipes and corrugated metal. The only signage to indicate that this is a place of business is an old, spray-painted wood board propped up on the ground: “June’s Pizza,” it reads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has emerged, somewhat unexpectedly, as one of the most celebrated pizza restaurants in the Bay Area on the back of its wood-fired, decadently cheese-strewn margherita pies. The pizzeria got plenty of acclaim during its renegade, early-COVID-era days as an unpermitted (and eventually \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/Oakland-s-pandemic-pizza-sensation-June-s-has-16513631.php\">shut down\u003c/a>) shipping container pop-up. Last year, after its brick-and-mortar opened on Mandela Parkway, \u003ci>Esquire \u003c/i>even named it one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/a69501755/best-new-restaurants-america-2025/\">best new restaurants\u003c/a> in the entire country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the reason we decided to make this pilgrimage now is because we heard — also somewhat unexpectedly — that the place has become one of the East Bay’s most popular late-night restaurants. Unexpected in the sense that June’s really only sells one thing between the hours of 9 p.m. and midnight: margherita pizza by the slice. That’s it. Nothing else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Would that be enough to hold our wandering eyes? We had been a bit skeptical. But by the time we finish our meal, we’re hard-pressed to think of anything \u003ci>more \u003c/i>perfect to eat at the end of a long night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June’s has become something of a destination restaurant for out-of-town visitors. But during its late-night hours, the place feels more like a locals’ hangout. Maybe a DJ is spinning records, or maybe the restaurant’s hosting a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DL6tw4mOljf/\">listening party for a new rap album\u003c/a>. But the overall vibe is akin to a big, convivial house party hosted in someone’s high-ceilinged living room. On the night of our visit, the crowd feels quintessentially Oakland — racially diverse, skewing toward twenty- and thirtysomething artistic types. At the table next to ours, a group of chic Asian Americans in designer eyeglasses chatters happily over their marg slices and a bottle of red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989679\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989679\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: the exterior of a warehouse-like restaurant, where several customers wait in line. On the ground, a handwritten sign reads, "June's Pizza."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/05/junes-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The buzzy West Oakland restaurant is located in an unmarked warehouse on a semi-industrial stretch of Mandela Parkway. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>June’s is proof that giving the customer \u003ci>fewer \u003c/i>choices is sometimes the smartest move. Even during non-late-night hours, the restaurant only ever sells three types of pizza: margherita, pepperoni and a limited quantity of whatever seasonal special they’ve come up with that week (say, fingerling potatoes, green garlic and ham). There are no salads, no cute little appetizers, no bread sticks, no desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And after 9 p.m., when June’s starts serving slices, the menu winnows down even further. Most nights, they only offer the margherita, which could scarcely be simpler — just cheese and tomato sauce with a stack of super-fresh basil leaves on the side, so you can top each slice as you please. The kitchen’s signature move is sprinkling the bejesus out of every pizza with a flurry of grated parmesan, covering the whole surface with a feathery umami dust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first bite is blistering hot, super crispy at the thin tip, and soft and melty on top. We love the interplay between the bright red sauce, salty cheese and well-blistered crust. The dough has just a hint of sourdough tang, and it puffs up and gets chewier and more flavorful as we get closer to the crust, offering different textures from bite to bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>We fold our slices in half, New York–style, and dip the crusts in the restaurant’s housemade sauces — an earthy roasted garlic number and a tangy, “limited edition” wakame Caesar dressing that has a strong anchovy umami punch. (That one is so good, I bring the leftovers home to make a helluva delicious salad the next day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One slice in, we understand perfectly now why June’s doesn’t offer a bunch of different pizzas, because this is a taste that we would never get tired of — one we could come back to week after week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tonight is our lucky night, though, because the restaurant is also selling pepperoni slices, which aren’t always available. These have an entirely different vibe, despite being built on the same base as the margherita — the pizza is much richer and more intensely flavored, and has a surprisingly spicy kick from the small, dense rounds of pepperoni.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, the success of June’s is a testament to the power of doing one thing really, really well. The lack of bells and whistles also helps keep the after-hours menu relatively affordable. Slices are $5 ($6 for pepperoni), and they’re big. Most diners won’t wind up eating more than two or three in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only danger? Not long after we arrive, we overhear the chef telling a customer that they only have three balls of raw dough left. By a little after 10 o’clock, there are maybe three pizzas’ worth of slices left, and it seems quite likely that they’re going to sell out before the hour is out. So as we head out into the night, we make plans to come back soon for another late-night pizza session — but maybe not \u003ci>too \u003c/i>late, to be safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/junes_pizza/\">June’s Pizza\u003c/a> is open 4 p.m.–midnight daily at 2408 Mandela Pkwy. in Oakland. The restaurant serves slices only starting at 9 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "el-tucan-baja-fish-tacos-san-rafael-marin-county-tijuana-late-night",
"title": "This North Bay Taqueria Is Your New Destination for Late-Night Fried Fish Tacos",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988853\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988853\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a large amount of tacos while seated at a picnic table. In back, string lights and heat lamps are visible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Tucán’s new location in San Rafael has an outdoor patio that looks out over the waterfront and a new menu addition: Baja-style fried fish and fried shrimp tacos. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos I’ve ever eaten in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/marin-county\">Marin County\u003c/a> are tucked away in the warren of warehouses and car dealerships that populate the eastern end of San Rafael. We pulled into the neighborhood at a little past 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night because we’d heard that one of our favorite taquerias, El Tucán, had finally opened its long-awaited location here — an outpost the owners had initially planned to debut \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903359/el-tucan-tijuana-tacos-quesabirria-san-rafael\">all the way back in 2021\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tucantacosandbeer/\">El Tucán Tacos & Beer\u003c/a> is meant to be a swankier, sit-down version of the original taqueria in Richmond. Importantly for our purposes, it stays open until 11 p.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Technically speaking, both the Richmond taqueria and the even newer El Tucán location \u003ca href=\"https://www.tacoseltucan.com/sf-info.html\">in San Francisco\u003c/a> are more prototypical late-night spots, slinging tacos until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Here in the North Bay, however, the new El Tucán is \u003ca href=\"https://next.kqed.org/arts/13953224/best-late-night-prime-rib-marin-petes-881-club-poker-room\">one of the very few places in town\u003c/a> that stays open late at all. In this particular semi-industrial corner of San Rafael, it was the only restaurant of any kind, open or closed, we saw for blocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As regulars at the original El Tucán, we came with the expectation that we’d be eating some of the tastiest carne asada in the Bay. What we didn’t expect was that the new restaurant would \u003ci>also \u003c/i>fry up the best Baja fish tacos we’ve eaten in a long, long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is bigger and fancier than it looks from the outside, with a long, gleamingly back-lit bar; trendy wicker light fixtures; and multiple flat-screen TVs for sports-watching. Along one wall there’s one of those cursive neon signs: “You are the salsa to my tacos.” On another, a colorful, very geometric mural of the restaurant’s namesake toucan. Not for nothing in Marin County, every other customer on this busy Friday night appeared to be Latino — a mix of twentysomethings sipping on gaudy, fluorescent-hued margaritas and older gentlemen in work boots. (El Tucán is located in San Rafael’s Canal District, where a dense cluster of apartment complexes houses the bulk of Marin County’s working class Latino population.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988852\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988852\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: a boxy, fairly nondescript-looking restaurant lit up at night. The neon sign reads, \"El Tucán Tacos & Beer,\" with a drawing of a toucan as its logo.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marin County doesn’t have a lot of notable late-night dining options, but El Tucán is open until 11 p.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The nicest part of the restaurant is the big, expansive deck in the back, adorned with string lights and a flotilla of heat lamps, that faces out toward the San Rafael Creek waterfront. We parked ourselves at one of the sturdy wooden picnic tables and proceeded to order about twice as many tacos as we had any business eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>El Tucán’s claim to fame is that it was one of the first taquerias to bring \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/12/5/20994943/tacos-el-tucan-tijuana-carne-asada-quesatacos-richmond\">Tijuana-style tacos\u003c/a> to the Bay Area, with its emphasis on meats grilled over fire (instead of on a flat-top), supple handmade tortillas, and the dollop of guacamole that comes on every taco by default. Arguably, the restaurant’s calling card is its quesatacos, which come laced with a thin layer of extremely crispy cheese. What experience has taught me, though, is that those cheesy tacos are too heavy for me to eat more than two or three in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So for our first meal in San Rafael, we instead started with a round of the standard (cheeseless) asada tacos, which were as phenomenal as we remembered; the steak was chopped finer, and came out so much juicier and more tender, than at your typical taco shop. Topped with a tangle of grilled onions and that big scoop of guacamole, the taco felt luxurious to eat, like a full meal in and of itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13988444,arts_13953224,arts_13963832']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Diners who want to splurge a bit can try one of the premium ($9) specialty tacos, like the arrachera (skirt steak) taco, which puts an entire mini steak on top of a tortilla. We loved how pleasantly chewy and crisp-edged the steak was — though we probably would have been even happier trading it for two more asada tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The real highlight of the restaurant, however, was another exemplar of Baja California cuisine: Baja-style fried fish tacos and shrimp tacos, which are only available at the San Rafael location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my controversial food opinions is that Baja fish tacos are the \u003ci>only\u003c/i> good fish tacos — you can keep your fussy little grilled fish tacos. But I also rarely order them in the Bay Area. There are so few places here that do them well (hello, \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/cholita-linda-to-bring-fish-tacos-and-eclectic-latin-to-temescal-1/\">Cholita Linda\u003c/a>!), and you wind up paying twice as much for a taco that’s only half as good as what you can get at, say, any random spot in San Diego.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m happy to report, then, that the fish tacos at El Tucán are spectacular. They’re pricey, yes, at $8 a pop. But they’re also \u003ci>huge\u003c/i>, with one plump, impeccably fried fillet that’s moist and tender, with an airy-light batter. There’s also limey chipotle crema and a tangle of delicately sliced cabbage and pickled onions. Taken all together, it makes for a flawlessly balanced bite. The Baja shrimp taco, which combines all of the same components with a pile of batter-fried shrimp, is just as good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like every other trend-hopping taqueria in the Bay, El Tucán has jumped on the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">quesabirria hype train\u003c/a>, with an assortment of birria-centric menu items that run the gamut from standard quesabirria tacos and consomé-dipped “red tacos” to super-sized birria “pizza.” We tried one of the red tacos with adobada (Tijuana-style al pastor) and found it tasty enough, if a little too heavy and cheesy for how stuffed we already felt at that stage in the meal. What we did enjoy, however, is El Tucán’s take on birria ramen — a rather elegant, stewy version, served with sliced avocado on top. It had a homey warmth to it that was especially nice on a chilly night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, there was a part of us that still preferred the old El Tucán in Richmond, where you stand in line, shoulder to shoulder with strangers, grab a plastic stool on the patio and wolf your food down in the semi-darkness. Certainly, it’s more chaotic, with a certain kind of romance. But if you’ve come with a group of friends and want to kick it for a while, that big deck overlooking the boats on the water is tough to beat. Especially with ice-cold Pacifica on draft and a couple of fish tacos in your belly.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tucantacosandbeer/\">\u003ci>El Tucán Tacos & Beer\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. at 15 Harbor St. in San Rafael.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988853\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988853\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a large amount of tacos while seated at a picnic table. In back, string lights and heat lamps are visible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/el-tucan-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Tucán’s new location in San Rafael has an outdoor patio that looks out over the waterfront and a new menu addition: Baja-style fried fish and fried shrimp tacos. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos I’ve ever eaten in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/marin-county\">Marin County\u003c/a> are tucked away in the warren of warehouses and car dealerships that populate the eastern end of San Rafael. We pulled into the neighborhood at a little past 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night because we’d heard that one of our favorite taquerias, El Tucán, had finally opened its long-awaited location here — an outpost the owners had initially planned to debut \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903359/el-tucan-tijuana-tacos-quesabirria-san-rafael\">all the way back in 2021\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tucantacosandbeer/\">El Tucán Tacos & Beer\u003c/a> is meant to be a swankier, sit-down version of the original taqueria in Richmond. Importantly for our purposes, it stays open until 11 p.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Technically speaking, both the Richmond taqueria and the even newer El Tucán location \u003ca href=\"https://www.tacoseltucan.com/sf-info.html\">in San Francisco\u003c/a> are more prototypical late-night spots, slinging tacos until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Here in the North Bay, however, the new El Tucán is \u003ca href=\"https://next.kqed.org/arts/13953224/best-late-night-prime-rib-marin-petes-881-club-poker-room\">one of the very few places in town\u003c/a> that stays open late at all. In this particular semi-industrial corner of San Rafael, it was the only restaurant of any kind, open or closed, we saw for blocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As regulars at the original El Tucán, we came with the expectation that we’d be eating some of the tastiest carne asada in the Bay. What we didn’t expect was that the new restaurant would \u003ci>also \u003c/i>fry up the best Baja fish tacos we’ve eaten in a long, long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is bigger and fancier than it looks from the outside, with a long, gleamingly back-lit bar; trendy wicker light fixtures; and multiple flat-screen TVs for sports-watching. Along one wall there’s one of those cursive neon signs: “You are the salsa to my tacos.” On another, a colorful, very geometric mural of the restaurant’s namesake toucan. Not for nothing in Marin County, every other customer on this busy Friday night appeared to be Latino — a mix of twentysomethings sipping on gaudy, fluorescent-hued margaritas and older gentlemen in work boots. (El Tucán is located in San Rafael’s Canal District, where a dense cluster of apartment complexes houses the bulk of Marin County’s working class Latino population.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988852\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988852\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: a boxy, fairly nondescript-looking restaurant lit up at night. The neon sign reads, \"El Tucán Tacos & Beer,\" with a drawing of a toucan as its logo.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/eltucan2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marin County doesn’t have a lot of notable late-night dining options, but El Tucán is open until 11 p.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The nicest part of the restaurant is the big, expansive deck in the back, adorned with string lights and a flotilla of heat lamps, that faces out toward the San Rafael Creek waterfront. We parked ourselves at one of the sturdy wooden picnic tables and proceeded to order about twice as many tacos as we had any business eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>El Tucán’s claim to fame is that it was one of the first taquerias to bring \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/12/5/20994943/tacos-el-tucan-tijuana-carne-asada-quesatacos-richmond\">Tijuana-style tacos\u003c/a> to the Bay Area, with its emphasis on meats grilled over fire (instead of on a flat-top), supple handmade tortillas, and the dollop of guacamole that comes on every taco by default. Arguably, the restaurant’s calling card is its quesatacos, which come laced with a thin layer of extremely crispy cheese. What experience has taught me, though, is that those cheesy tacos are too heavy for me to eat more than two or three in one sitting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So for our first meal in San Rafael, we instead started with a round of the standard (cheeseless) asada tacos, which were as phenomenal as we remembered; the steak was chopped finer, and came out so much juicier and more tender, than at your typical taco shop. Topped with a tangle of grilled onions and that big scoop of guacamole, the taco felt luxurious to eat, like a full meal in and of itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Diners who want to splurge a bit can try one of the premium ($9) specialty tacos, like the arrachera (skirt steak) taco, which puts an entire mini steak on top of a tortilla. We loved how pleasantly chewy and crisp-edged the steak was — though we probably would have been even happier trading it for two more asada tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The real highlight of the restaurant, however, was another exemplar of Baja California cuisine: Baja-style fried fish tacos and shrimp tacos, which are only available at the San Rafael location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my controversial food opinions is that Baja fish tacos are the \u003ci>only\u003c/i> good fish tacos — you can keep your fussy little grilled fish tacos. But I also rarely order them in the Bay Area. There are so few places here that do them well (hello, \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/cholita-linda-to-bring-fish-tacos-and-eclectic-latin-to-temescal-1/\">Cholita Linda\u003c/a>!), and you wind up paying twice as much for a taco that’s only half as good as what you can get at, say, any random spot in San Diego.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m happy to report, then, that the fish tacos at El Tucán are spectacular. They’re pricey, yes, at $8 a pop. But they’re also \u003ci>huge\u003c/i>, with one plump, impeccably fried fillet that’s moist and tender, with an airy-light batter. There’s also limey chipotle crema and a tangle of delicately sliced cabbage and pickled onions. Taken all together, it makes for a flawlessly balanced bite. The Baja shrimp taco, which combines all of the same components with a pile of batter-fried shrimp, is just as good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like every other trend-hopping taqueria in the Bay, El Tucán has jumped on the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">quesabirria hype train\u003c/a>, with an assortment of birria-centric menu items that run the gamut from standard quesabirria tacos and consomé-dipped “red tacos” to super-sized birria “pizza.” We tried one of the red tacos with adobada (Tijuana-style al pastor) and found it tasty enough, if a little too heavy and cheesy for how stuffed we already felt at that stage in the meal. What we did enjoy, however, is El Tucán’s take on birria ramen — a rather elegant, stewy version, served with sliced avocado on top. It had a homey warmth to it that was especially nice on a chilly night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, there was a part of us that still preferred the old El Tucán in Richmond, where you stand in line, shoulder to shoulder with strangers, grab a plastic stool on the patio and wolf your food down in the semi-darkness. Certainly, it’s more chaotic, with a certain kind of romance. But if you’ve come with a group of friends and want to kick it for a while, that big deck overlooking the boats on the water is tough to beat. Especially with ice-cold Pacifica on draft and a couple of fish tacos in your belly.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tucantacosandbeer/\">\u003ci>El Tucán Tacos & Beer\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. at 15 Harbor St. in San Rafael.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Santa Clara’s Tastiest Charcoal-Grilled Korean Barbecue Spot Stays Open Until Midnight",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988447\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988447\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring Korean barbecue while a server attends to the grill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Santa Clara’s Korean Spring BBQ, the late-night special is a massive $200 barbecue feast. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the moment you first step into a proper \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/korean-food\">Korean\u003c/a> barbecue restaurant: The sweet, smoky smell of charred meat instantly seeps into your clothing. The industrial-size hood vents whir and hum, working overtime. And when the server hustles over to your table to line the edge of the grill with aluminum foil, then lowers a tray of red-hot charcoal into the pit? That’s when you know it’s \u003ci>really\u003c/i> on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such are the charms of Korean Spring BBQ, one of the Bay Area’s last remaining Korean barbecue restaurants where the meat is still grilled over wood charcoal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a busy plaza in Santa Clara’s sprawling, informal Koreatown, Korean Spring doesn’t have the slick branding and Insta-optimized aesthetics of some of the newer high-end KBBQ hotspots and trendy \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965215/all-you-can-eat-wagyu-beef-hot-pot-shabu-shabu-mikiya-santa-clara\">AYCE wagyu purveyors\u003c/a>. Instead, the place has more of an old-school, mom-and-pop vibe. The dining room is all utilitarian metallic surfaces, with minimal decor, and the people who come here seem like they come purely for the love of the meat — and for the clean, smoky char you can never quite get with a gas grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of particular interest to us? The restaurant stays open until midnight six nights a week, and starting at 9 p.m., they serve a $200 “Midnight Menu” combo set that comes with four different cuts of USDA Prime beef, beef bone soup, a salad and a few other side dishes, plus your choice of soju, beer or soda. It’s a lavish barbecue feast for three or four meat lovers to share — and, as we soon learned, altogether too much food for two greedy midnight diners. Not that we went down without a fight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988449\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988449\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: facade of Korean Spring BBQ restaurant, lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located in the busy Kiely Plaza, the restaurant is open until midnight six nights a week. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At half past nine on a recent Friday night, the restaurant was about half full with parties of four or five — all Asians in their twenties and thirties, chatting happily in Mandarin and Korean. This is the kind of Korean barbecue joint where the staff grills the meat for you at the table, not one of those cook-it-yourself setups. Our friendly attendant got to work as soon as we placed our order, deftly flipping the meat on the hot grill and, in some cases, using scissors to cut it down into progressively smaller pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, even experienced Korean barbecue enthusiasts tend to stick with a handful of greatest hits — your ribeye bulgogi, pork belly and L.A. galbi. One nice thing about Korean Spring’s Midnight Menu is that it introduces a number of lesser-known but equally delicious cuts. We started with thinly sliced beef tongue, which was rich and earthy with a fun, snappy texture. Then came the outside skirt, one of our favorites, sliced about as thick as you would cut a steak for stir-fry and astonishingly tender; the flavor was deeply, deeply beefy. The rib finger — the meat between the rib bones, apparently — was the most steak-like of the cuts, with the same satisfying chew and juicy richness you might expect from a nicely grilled ribeye. And the thinly sliced brisket point had a lovely streak of fat in each piece that rendered out while the edges of the meat got nice and crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Notably, none of these cuts are marinated, so what you taste is the pure flavor of the Prime-grade beef, with its rich marbling, enhanced by the smoke and char from the charcoal grill. The set comes with a variety of dipping options: doenjang (fermented soybean paste), wasabi, some kind of purple sea salt and, by far our favorite, a slurry of salt, pepper and sesame oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also couldn’t resist ordering the marinated galbi, or short rib, as a $60 add-on. Here, they cut the well-marbled meat off the bone and grill it like thin strips of steak. We weren’t prepared for how soft and buttery this would be, the fatty parts literally melting away in our mouths. Afterwards, our friendly grill guy cut off the bits of meat and cartilage still attached to the bone and grilled those separately for another taste and texture — those crunchy-chewy bits of connective tissue were some of our favorite bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13988027,arts_13973430,arts_13961328']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Meanwhile, the non-barbecue side dishes that come with the set all felt incredibly thoughtful, like they’d been carefully calibrated to balance out our meal. I would never think to order something called “tofu salad w/ almond” at a Korean barbecue restaurant, but this was fantastic — salad greens topped with very soft tofu and sliced almonds, then dressed with a sweet doenjang-based dressing. Every time I felt like all of the meat was getting too rich and heavy, I’d take a bite of salad, and then I’d be ready to keep going. A bowl of cloudy beef bone soup, garnished with green onions and served unseasoned, with salt on the side, served a similar palate-refreshing purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the classic steamed egg, or gyeran-jjim, was one of the best versions I’ve had — immaculately fluffy and light. Too often this dish deflates into a sad pancake as soon as you cut into it, but Korean Spring’s held its shape, and its delectable texture, over the course of the meal. The only side we weren’t a fan of was the cheese fondue; dipping our barbecue in melted cheese was a fun novelty, but not something we wanted to do more than once or twice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taken all together, this was more or less our platonic ideal of a Korean barbecue meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note that Korean Spring isn’t one of those ssam specialists where they give you a half-dozen exotic lettuces to use to wrap your meats. Here, they only offered regular green lettuce — and we had to ask for it. The banchan selection is also pretty limited. Apart from the more substantial side dishes mentioned above, you really only get kimchi, a stack of marinated perilla leaves and a “salad” of pickled onions and jalapeños. But all of it is excellent. In particular, the kimchi is the kind made with whole napa cabbage, cut into bright, crunchy slivers. And I loved wrapping the beef inside the pickled perilla leaves, whose musky tang provided a nice counterpoint to the rich meat. Another essential for any KBBQ connoisseur: slices of raw garlic and jalapeños, refilled quickly and plentifully whenever we asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At $200 before any add-ons, the meal is a bit of a splurge even split between the three or four diners it’s intended to feed. But it’s a worthy splurge if you find yourself in a carnivorous mood and want to treat yourself late at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We dipped and double-dipped our meat in doenjang and sesame oil, wrapped it in lettuce accented with slivers of sharp, pungent garlic. We sipped our broth and then piled more meat on top of rice, reveling in the uniquely Korean pleasures of mixing and matching every bite, and then we went home with a ridiculous amount of leftovers. It was a good night.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Korean Spring BBQ is open Monday 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–9 p.m., Tuesday to Friday 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5 p.m.–midnight, and Saturday to Sunday 11 a.m.–midnight at 1062 Kiely Blvd. in Santa Clara. The “Midnight Menu” is available after 9 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988447\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988447\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring Korean barbecue while a server attends to the grill.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Santa Clara’s Korean Spring BBQ, the late-night special is a massive $200 barbecue feast. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the moment you first step into a proper \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/korean-food\">Korean\u003c/a> barbecue restaurant: The sweet, smoky smell of charred meat instantly seeps into your clothing. The industrial-size hood vents whir and hum, working overtime. And when the server hustles over to your table to line the edge of the grill with aluminum foil, then lowers a tray of red-hot charcoal into the pit? That’s when you know it’s \u003ci>really\u003c/i> on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such are the charms of Korean Spring BBQ, one of the Bay Area’s last remaining Korean barbecue restaurants where the meat is still grilled over wood charcoal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in a busy plaza in Santa Clara’s sprawling, informal Koreatown, Korean Spring doesn’t have the slick branding and Insta-optimized aesthetics of some of the newer high-end KBBQ hotspots and trendy \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965215/all-you-can-eat-wagyu-beef-hot-pot-shabu-shabu-mikiya-santa-clara\">AYCE wagyu purveyors\u003c/a>. Instead, the place has more of an old-school, mom-and-pop vibe. The dining room is all utilitarian metallic surfaces, with minimal decor, and the people who come here seem like they come purely for the love of the meat — and for the clean, smoky char you can never quite get with a gas grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of particular interest to us? The restaurant stays open until midnight six nights a week, and starting at 9 p.m., they serve a $200 “Midnight Menu” combo set that comes with four different cuts of USDA Prime beef, beef bone soup, a salad and a few other side dishes, plus your choice of soju, beer or soda. It’s a lavish barbecue feast for three or four meat lovers to share — and, as we soon learned, altogether too much food for two greedy midnight diners. Not that we went down without a fight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988449\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988449\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: facade of Korean Spring BBQ restaurant, lit up at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/04/KoreanSpring2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located in the busy Kiely Plaza, the restaurant is open until midnight six nights a week. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At half past nine on a recent Friday night, the restaurant was about half full with parties of four or five — all Asians in their twenties and thirties, chatting happily in Mandarin and Korean. This is the kind of Korean barbecue joint where the staff grills the meat for you at the table, not one of those cook-it-yourself setups. Our friendly attendant got to work as soon as we placed our order, deftly flipping the meat on the hot grill and, in some cases, using scissors to cut it down into progressively smaller pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, even experienced Korean barbecue enthusiasts tend to stick with a handful of greatest hits — your ribeye bulgogi, pork belly and L.A. galbi. One nice thing about Korean Spring’s Midnight Menu is that it introduces a number of lesser-known but equally delicious cuts. We started with thinly sliced beef tongue, which was rich and earthy with a fun, snappy texture. Then came the outside skirt, one of our favorites, sliced about as thick as you would cut a steak for stir-fry and astonishingly tender; the flavor was deeply, deeply beefy. The rib finger — the meat between the rib bones, apparently — was the most steak-like of the cuts, with the same satisfying chew and juicy richness you might expect from a nicely grilled ribeye. And the thinly sliced brisket point had a lovely streak of fat in each piece that rendered out while the edges of the meat got nice and crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Notably, none of these cuts are marinated, so what you taste is the pure flavor of the Prime-grade beef, with its rich marbling, enhanced by the smoke and char from the charcoal grill. The set comes with a variety of dipping options: doenjang (fermented soybean paste), wasabi, some kind of purple sea salt and, by far our favorite, a slurry of salt, pepper and sesame oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also couldn’t resist ordering the marinated galbi, or short rib, as a $60 add-on. Here, they cut the well-marbled meat off the bone and grill it like thin strips of steak. We weren’t prepared for how soft and buttery this would be, the fatty parts literally melting away in our mouths. Afterwards, our friendly grill guy cut off the bits of meat and cartilage still attached to the bone and grilled those separately for another taste and texture — those crunchy-chewy bits of connective tissue were some of our favorite bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Meanwhile, the non-barbecue side dishes that come with the set all felt incredibly thoughtful, like they’d been carefully calibrated to balance out our meal. I would never think to order something called “tofu salad w/ almond” at a Korean barbecue restaurant, but this was fantastic — salad greens topped with very soft tofu and sliced almonds, then dressed with a sweet doenjang-based dressing. Every time I felt like all of the meat was getting too rich and heavy, I’d take a bite of salad, and then I’d be ready to keep going. A bowl of cloudy beef bone soup, garnished with green onions and served unseasoned, with salt on the side, served a similar palate-refreshing purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the classic steamed egg, or gyeran-jjim, was one of the best versions I’ve had — immaculately fluffy and light. Too often this dish deflates into a sad pancake as soon as you cut into it, but Korean Spring’s held its shape, and its delectable texture, over the course of the meal. The only side we weren’t a fan of was the cheese fondue; dipping our barbecue in melted cheese was a fun novelty, but not something we wanted to do more than once or twice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taken all together, this was more or less our platonic ideal of a Korean barbecue meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note that Korean Spring isn’t one of those ssam specialists where they give you a half-dozen exotic lettuces to use to wrap your meats. Here, they only offered regular green lettuce — and we had to ask for it. The banchan selection is also pretty limited. Apart from the more substantial side dishes mentioned above, you really only get kimchi, a stack of marinated perilla leaves and a “salad” of pickled onions and jalapeños. But all of it is excellent. In particular, the kimchi is the kind made with whole napa cabbage, cut into bright, crunchy slivers. And I loved wrapping the beef inside the pickled perilla leaves, whose musky tang provided a nice counterpoint to the rich meat. Another essential for any KBBQ connoisseur: slices of raw garlic and jalapeños, refilled quickly and plentifully whenever we asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At $200 before any add-ons, the meal is a bit of a splurge even split between the three or four diners it’s intended to feed. But it’s a worthy splurge if you find yourself in a carnivorous mood and want to treat yourself late at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We dipped and double-dipped our meat in doenjang and sesame oil, wrapped it in lettuce accented with slivers of sharp, pungent garlic. We sipped our broth and then piled more meat on top of rice, reveling in the uniquely Korean pleasures of mixing and matching every bite, and then we went home with a ridiculous amount of leftovers. It was a good night.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Korean Spring BBQ is open Monday 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–9 p.m., Tuesday to Friday 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5 p.m.–midnight, and Saturday to Sunday 11 a.m.–midnight at 1062 Kiely Blvd. in Santa Clara. The “Midnight Menu” is available after 9 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Harry’s Hofbrau Is a Late-Night Throwback for $20 Steak Dinners",
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"headTitle": "Harry’s Hofbrau Is a Late-Night Throwback for $20 Steak Dinners | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988036\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Diners point at the dishes they want at a cafeteria-style counter. Chefs in white toques serve them their food.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">With locations in San Leandro and Redwood City, Harry’s Hofbrau is one of the last in a dying breed of cafeteria-style restaurants specializing in freshly carved roasted meats. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist (and rotisserie chicken enthusiast) \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brianabreaks/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Briana Loewinsohn\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> joined them in the hofbrau line.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been a couple of decades since I’ve eaten at the EPCOT Center’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2015/8/26/9192203/epcot-world-showcase-ranked\">themed dining pavilions\u003c/a>. But \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/harryshofbrausanleandro/\">Harry’s Hofbrau\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/san-leandro\">San Leandro\u003c/a> might be the closest I’ve gotten to its pleasantly cheesy theme-park vibe while dining out in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Harry’s, you’re greeted at the door by a procession of jolly statues (a paunchy, mustachioed chef; a beer chugger in lederhosen), all gussied up in leprechaun green if you come the week before St. Patrick’s Day, as we did. The restaurant is \u003ci>huge\u003c/i>, nostalgically appointed in the style of a German hunting lodge, and perpetually decked out with colorful streamers, balloons and twinkle lights for Christmas, or St. Patty’s, or Thanksgiving. You wait in a long cafeteria queue, and when you finally reach the front, one of the knife-wielding maestros in a jaunty white chef’s toque hands you a plastic tray with a plate piled high with gravy-drenched sliced meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is perfection, in its way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Above all else, Harry’s is a restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously. It’s a proper hofbrau — one of the last in a dying breed of cafeteria-style restaurants, mostly unique to the Bay Area, that specialize in freshly carved roasted meats and inexpensive draft beer. It also happens to be one of the few remaining places in the Bay where you can get a big steak (or roast turkey, or corned-beef-and-cabbage) dinner for around $20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, of special relevance to our interests, the place stays open late, too — until 11 p.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the crowd at Harry’s, at a little past 9 p.m. on a recent Friday, didn’t exactly \u003ci>feel\u003c/i> like a crowd. There wasn’t much of a line at this late hour, and because the cavernous dining room is so big, only about a third of the tables were occupied. It was one of the more diverse dining rooms I’ve been in for a while, ethnically and racially (an even split between Black, white, Latino and Asian), if not in terms of age. Indeed, apart from one lone table of teens, our middle-aged crew appeared to be the only party in the entire restaurant under the age of 60. One cushy booth was occupied by a group of older ladies in matching custodial uniforms. A number of solo diners quietly ate their plates of roast beef and mashed potatoes by themselves — tired and contemplative at the end of a long workday, it seemed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, too, is part of the restaurant’s charm. The San Leandro hofbrau — along with the original Redwood City location, which dates back to the 1950s — is one of the few Bay Area restaurants where you can walk in with a group of 10 or 15 at 10 o’clock on a Saturday night and have everyone seated and enjoying a hot meal within a matter of minutes. For a big, casual family reunion, last-minute birthday party or after-work group-decompression session, Harry’s is an easy crowdpleaser.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988037\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988037\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men sit in a leather booth over a large spread of roast meats and mashed potatoes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There isn’t much of a crowd at Harry’s Hofbrau late at night — which makes is perfect for an impromptu gathering. The restaurant stays open until 11 p.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The heart of the carvery is the cafeteria-style steam table counter where diners can choose from a dizzying array of roasted meats, the most popular of which are the turkey (for a Thanksgiving anytime vibe), the roast beef and the corned beef — normally a Thursday dinner special, but served all week long in the lead-up to St. Patrick’s Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most devoted Harry’s loyalist in our group stuck with her usual rotisserie chicken dinner, which she described as being just like the more famous turkey dinner “but cheaper \u003ci>and\u003c/i> tastier.” For about $17, you get a half a chicken, a huge mound of mashed potatoes soaked in your choice of beef or turkey gravy (both excellent), a dinner roll and an additional side of your choosing. While you don’t come to a place like Harry’s expecting complicated spices or pasture-raised birds, the dark meat on that chicken was tender and succulent, the gravy made up for the slight dryness of the breast, and the skin was especially well seasoned and delicious — all in all, several steps up from a Boston Market (or your local equivalent).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The house-cured corned beef and cabbage, meanwhile, was just fine — sliced thick, generously portioned, and tasty enough, especially when drenched in the house au jus. The accompanying cabbage, carrots and potatoes were just plainly boiled, though. You’ll have to doctor them up with salt and butter at the table if you find them bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13987415,arts_13963093,arts_13953224']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>My favorite, by far, was the Santa Maria–style tri tip — a nod to California’s own homegrown style of barbecue — which Harry’s serves as a special on Friday nights. Even carved off the small nub of the roast left over at the end of the night, the thin slices of beef were still perfectly tender and pink, with a pronounced smoky flavor that lingered on the tongue. It was fantastic soaked in au jus, with a dab of the bottled horseradish cream available on each table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Pro tip: You can always ask for more au jus or gravy. Don’t make the same mistake I did, confidently walking up to a dispenser in the dining area to pour myself a tub. Those are hot \u003ci>coffee \u003c/i>dispensers, not au jus or gravy dispensers — though I can’t be the only one who’s suggested that those would be an amazing amenity.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant’s other signature is its mashed potatoes, which aren’t “gourmet” in any way, but look just like a version you might see on a 1950s picture postcard, and taste just as rich and nostalgic. While none of the other side dishes we tried were strictly \u003ci>delicious\u003c/i>, the range of hot and cold options on the steam table is another part of what makes the Harry’s experience fun and vaguely buffet-like. For balance, I’d recommend getting some kind of green vegetable: I liked the mixed grilled veggies (exactly like you’d get at a backyard cookout) better than the limp Caesar salad with oddly soft croutons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll want to save a little bit of room for dessert too. Even though my tablemates mocked my enthusiasm for the blueberry pie — which they, in their ignorance, deemed too thick-crusted and overly sweet — I can never resist ordering a slice. This night’s specimen was especially perfect-looking, like a cartoon drawing of a slice of pie, with its crinkly sparkly-sugar topping and thick filling of glistening berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I polished off most of the pie by myself, with a cup of strong hot coffee. Like just about everything else at Harry’s, it tasted like the most pleasant memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/harryshofbrausanleandro/\">\u003ci>Harry’s Hofbrau\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. and Friday to Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. at 14900 E. 14th St. in San Leandro. The restaurant’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/harryshofbraurwc/\">\u003ci>other location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, at 1909 El Camino Real in Redwood City, is open until 11 p.m. one additional night, on Thursdays.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988036\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Diners point at the dishes they want at a cafeteria-style counter. Chefs in white toques serve them their food.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_1-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">With locations in San Leandro and Redwood City, Harry’s Hofbrau is one of the last in a dying breed of cafeteria-style restaurants specializing in freshly carved roasted meats. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist (and rotisserie chicken enthusiast) \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brianabreaks/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Briana Loewinsohn\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> joined them in the hofbrau line.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been a couple of decades since I’ve eaten at the EPCOT Center’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2015/8/26/9192203/epcot-world-showcase-ranked\">themed dining pavilions\u003c/a>. But \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/harryshofbrausanleandro/\">Harry’s Hofbrau\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/san-leandro\">San Leandro\u003c/a> might be the closest I’ve gotten to its pleasantly cheesy theme-park vibe while dining out in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Harry’s, you’re greeted at the door by a procession of jolly statues (a paunchy, mustachioed chef; a beer chugger in lederhosen), all gussied up in leprechaun green if you come the week before St. Patrick’s Day, as we did. The restaurant is \u003ci>huge\u003c/i>, nostalgically appointed in the style of a German hunting lodge, and perpetually decked out with colorful streamers, balloons and twinkle lights for Christmas, or St. Patty’s, or Thanksgiving. You wait in a long cafeteria queue, and when you finally reach the front, one of the knife-wielding maestros in a jaunty white chef’s toque hands you a plastic tray with a plate piled high with gravy-drenched sliced meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is perfection, in its way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Above all else, Harry’s is a restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously. It’s a proper hofbrau — one of the last in a dying breed of cafeteria-style restaurants, mostly unique to the Bay Area, that specialize in freshly carved roasted meats and inexpensive draft beer. It also happens to be one of the few remaining places in the Bay where you can get a big steak (or roast turkey, or corned-beef-and-cabbage) dinner for around $20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, of special relevance to our interests, the place stays open late, too — until 11 p.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the crowd at Harry’s, at a little past 9 p.m. on a recent Friday, didn’t exactly \u003ci>feel\u003c/i> like a crowd. There wasn’t much of a line at this late hour, and because the cavernous dining room is so big, only about a third of the tables were occupied. It was one of the more diverse dining rooms I’ve been in for a while, ethnically and racially (an even split between Black, white, Latino and Asian), if not in terms of age. Indeed, apart from one lone table of teens, our middle-aged crew appeared to be the only party in the entire restaurant under the age of 60. One cushy booth was occupied by a group of older ladies in matching custodial uniforms. A number of solo diners quietly ate their plates of roast beef and mashed potatoes by themselves — tired and contemplative at the end of a long workday, it seemed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, too, is part of the restaurant’s charm. The San Leandro hofbrau — along with the original Redwood City location, which dates back to the 1950s — is one of the few Bay Area restaurants where you can walk in with a group of 10 or 15 at 10 o’clock on a Saturday night and have everyone seated and enjoying a hot meal within a matter of minutes. For a big, casual family reunion, last-minute birthday party or after-work group-decompression session, Harry’s is an easy crowdpleaser.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13988037\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13988037\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men sit in a leather booth over a large spread of roast meats and mashed potatoes.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/Harrys_Hofbrau_2-600x600.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There isn’t much of a crowd at Harry’s Hofbrau late at night — which makes is perfect for an impromptu gathering. The restaurant stays open until 11 p.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The heart of the carvery is the cafeteria-style steam table counter where diners can choose from a dizzying array of roasted meats, the most popular of which are the turkey (for a Thanksgiving anytime vibe), the roast beef and the corned beef — normally a Thursday dinner special, but served all week long in the lead-up to St. Patrick’s Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most devoted Harry’s loyalist in our group stuck with her usual rotisserie chicken dinner, which she described as being just like the more famous turkey dinner “but cheaper \u003ci>and\u003c/i> tastier.” For about $17, you get a half a chicken, a huge mound of mashed potatoes soaked in your choice of beef or turkey gravy (both excellent), a dinner roll and an additional side of your choosing. While you don’t come to a place like Harry’s expecting complicated spices or pasture-raised birds, the dark meat on that chicken was tender and succulent, the gravy made up for the slight dryness of the breast, and the skin was especially well seasoned and delicious — all in all, several steps up from a Boston Market (or your local equivalent).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The house-cured corned beef and cabbage, meanwhile, was just fine — sliced thick, generously portioned, and tasty enough, especially when drenched in the house au jus. The accompanying cabbage, carrots and potatoes were just plainly boiled, though. You’ll have to doctor them up with salt and butter at the table if you find them bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>My favorite, by far, was the Santa Maria–style tri tip — a nod to California’s own homegrown style of barbecue — which Harry’s serves as a special on Friday nights. Even carved off the small nub of the roast left over at the end of the night, the thin slices of beef were still perfectly tender and pink, with a pronounced smoky flavor that lingered on the tongue. It was fantastic soaked in au jus, with a dab of the bottled horseradish cream available on each table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Pro tip: You can always ask for more au jus or gravy. Don’t make the same mistake I did, confidently walking up to a dispenser in the dining area to pour myself a tub. Those are hot \u003ci>coffee \u003c/i>dispensers, not au jus or gravy dispensers — though I can’t be the only one who’s suggested that those would be an amazing amenity.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant’s other signature is its mashed potatoes, which aren’t “gourmet” in any way, but look just like a version you might see on a 1950s picture postcard, and taste just as rich and nostalgic. While none of the other side dishes we tried were strictly \u003ci>delicious\u003c/i>, the range of hot and cold options on the steam table is another part of what makes the Harry’s experience fun and vaguely buffet-like. For balance, I’d recommend getting some kind of green vegetable: I liked the mixed grilled veggies (exactly like you’d get at a backyard cookout) better than the limp Caesar salad with oddly soft croutons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll want to save a little bit of room for dessert too. Even though my tablemates mocked my enthusiasm for the blueberry pie — which they, in their ignorance, deemed too thick-crusted and overly sweet — I can never resist ordering a slice. This night’s specimen was especially perfect-looking, like a cartoon drawing of a slice of pie, with its crinkly sparkly-sugar topping and thick filling of glistening berries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I polished off most of the pie by myself, with a cup of strong hot coffee. Like just about everything else at Harry’s, it tasted like the most pleasant memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/harryshofbrausanleandro/\">\u003ci>Harry’s Hofbrau\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. and Friday to Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. at 14900 E. 14th St. in San Leandro. The restaurant’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/harryshofbraurwc/\">\u003ci>other location\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, at 1909 El Camino Real in Redwood City, is open until 11 p.m. one additional night, on Thursdays.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13987423\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13987423\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: two men devouring oxtails and a whole fried fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The patio at Oakland’s 9jaGrills is like a permanent backyard party — one with delicious Nigerian oxtails and jollof rice. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/9jagrills/\">9jaGrills\u003c/a>, a newish Nigerian spot near \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/oakland\">Oakland’s\u003c/a> Jack London waterfront, the main dining room follows the standard blueprint for today’s shiny, Instagram-optimized restaurants: the lush faux greenery wall, the neon-lit catchphrase (“Food 🔥, Drinks & Vibes”) in glowing pink cursive. The space is tidy, bright and perfectly pleasant — but, at 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, it was also totally empty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, a couple dozen people had crowded out on the small tented patio in back, which was a distinct ecosystem unto itself: a haze of hookah smoke, disco lights, cheap furniture and mystery drinks in red plastic cups. On the big-screen TV, two \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wannixhandi/?hl=en\">identical twin DJs\u003c/a> from Nigeria spun Afrobeats on stage in Lagos. Everyone else on the patio appeared to be West African, and apart from one table of middle-aged gentlemen dipping fufu into a big bowl of stew, no one else seemed to have come for the food at this hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was more of a backyard party vibe. A kick back with a couple of cold \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/trophylagernigeria/?hl=en\">Trophy Lagers\u003c/a> vibe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that we were going to let that deter us from our mission. We had made the trip because we had a wicked craving for oxtails, and we’d heard on good authority that this food-truck-turned-brick-and-mortar-lounge was \u003ci>the \u003c/i>spot in Oakland for Nigerian-style oxtails and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">jollof rice\u003c/a> — and maybe the only spot where you can reliably score those dishes until midnight on the weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open since July of last year, 9jaGrills has one of the broader menus I’ve seen among the East Bay’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896069/jolly-jolly-nigerian-restaurant-west-oakland-jollof-rice-indomie\">Nigerian restaurants\u003c/a>, running the gamut from classics like pepper soup and suya meat skewers to lesser-known (at least in the U.S.) favorites like stir-fried Indomie instant noodles and a whole stewed goat’s head. The menu is divided up into grilled dishes, jollof rice plates, whole fried fish, and soups and stews meant to be scooped up with “swallows” (i.e. assorted starchy, dough-like rounds). Factor in the large variety of swallows and optional side sauces on offer, and just figuring out what to order might be a little bit intimidating to newcomers to West African cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13987424\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13987424\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills.jpg\" alt='Illustration: exterior of a Nigerian restaurant at nighttime. The awning reads, \"www.9jagrills.com\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located near the Jack London waterfront, 9jaGrills is open until midnight on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I can tell you for certain is that the plate of oxtails and jollof rice is a crowd pleaser. The rice alone was amazing: tomato-tinted and steaming hot, with a luxurious oiliness and a smoky, savory depth of flavor I couldn’t get enough of. It’s jollof so good you’d make a special trip just to eat it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the oxtails were slow-cooked in a dark, well-spiced gravy until they’d achieved just the right level of tenderness. When we sucked on each bone, all of the gelatinous skin and fat came clean off, and the prickle of chili heat in the sauce was incredibly addicting. These are oxtails so tasty that if you don’t watch your dining partner like a hawk, he’ll polish off the last several bones before you have a chance to protest. As a self-proclaimed \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">scholar of oxtails\u003c/a>, I couldn’t find a single flaw. On the side were some of the best fried plantains I’ve encountered in a long time — crisp and slightly charred on the outside, with an oozy sweetness that helped balance out all of the other heavier, more intense flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13986949,arts_13982096,arts_13983249']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The oxtail dish by itself satisfied our hunger, but of course we didn’t stop there. We also ordered the whole fried pompano — a flat fish, vaguely flounder-like in appearance, with delicate flesh and a rich, earthy taste. It was incredibly satisfying picking that fish clean — dunking strips of it into the bright, searingly hot housemade pepper sauce, and dipping the eye sockets (don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it) into a tub of suya spice mix. The plate came with a heaping portion of the same excellent jollof and fried plantains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, we dug into the fragrant, spicy, palm oil–based stew known as ayamase, which 9jaGrills’ friendly owner had tried to steer us away from, warning us that it came with a kind of “local” Nigerian rice that Americans don’t tend to like, and asking, with some concern, whether we’d eaten Nigerian food before. With that kind of introduction, of course we had to order it, and it may have been the most memorable dish of the night. Ayamase consists mostly of beef offal: the liver, the intestines and especially the skin, cooked until it’s so tender and slippery that it practically melts in your mouth. The stew was studded with flat, toothsome locust beans and a hard-boiled egg — all delicious when mashed into the sauce, then ladled over the nutty whole-grain ofada rice, which was perfect for soaking up the stew’s oily richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crouched over our feast in the semi-darkness of 9jaGrills’ backyard patio, we shoveled rice into our mouths like we hadn’t eaten for days, and held the oxtail bones in our hands, inspecting each one to make sure we’d picked it clean. Then, utterly stuffed and hyped up on Naija beats, we stumbled back into the bright lights of the restaurant proper, like we’d just woken up from the most beautiful dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/9jagrills/\">\u003ci>9jaGrills\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Wednesday to Thursday noon–9 p.m., Friday to Saturday noon–midnight, and Sunday 2–10 p.m. at 303 Broadway in Oakland.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13987423\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13987423\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: two men devouring oxtails and a whole fried fish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The patio at Oakland’s 9jaGrills is like a permanent backyard party — one with delicious Nigerian oxtails and jollof rice. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/9jagrills/\">9jaGrills\u003c/a>, a newish Nigerian spot near \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/oakland\">Oakland’s\u003c/a> Jack London waterfront, the main dining room follows the standard blueprint for today’s shiny, Instagram-optimized restaurants: the lush faux greenery wall, the neon-lit catchphrase (“Food 🔥, Drinks & Vibes”) in glowing pink cursive. The space is tidy, bright and perfectly pleasant — but, at 10 o’clock on a recent Friday night, it was also totally empty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, a couple dozen people had crowded out on the small tented patio in back, which was a distinct ecosystem unto itself: a haze of hookah smoke, disco lights, cheap furniture and mystery drinks in red plastic cups. On the big-screen TV, two \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wannixhandi/?hl=en\">identical twin DJs\u003c/a> from Nigeria spun Afrobeats on stage in Lagos. Everyone else on the patio appeared to be West African, and apart from one table of middle-aged gentlemen dipping fufu into a big bowl of stew, no one else seemed to have come for the food at this hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was more of a backyard party vibe. A kick back with a couple of cold \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/trophylagernigeria/?hl=en\">Trophy Lagers\u003c/a> vibe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that we were going to let that deter us from our mission. We had made the trip because we had a wicked craving for oxtails, and we’d heard on good authority that this food-truck-turned-brick-and-mortar-lounge was \u003ci>the \u003c/i>spot in Oakland for Nigerian-style oxtails and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">jollof rice\u003c/a> — and maybe the only spot where you can reliably score those dishes until midnight on the weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open since July of last year, 9jaGrills has one of the broader menus I’ve seen among the East Bay’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896069/jolly-jolly-nigerian-restaurant-west-oakland-jollof-rice-indomie\">Nigerian restaurants\u003c/a>, running the gamut from classics like pepper soup and suya meat skewers to lesser-known (at least in the U.S.) favorites like stir-fried Indomie instant noodles and a whole stewed goat’s head. The menu is divided up into grilled dishes, jollof rice plates, whole fried fish, and soups and stews meant to be scooped up with “swallows” (i.e. assorted starchy, dough-like rounds). Factor in the large variety of swallows and optional side sauces on offer, and just figuring out what to order might be a little bit intimidating to newcomers to West African cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13987424\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13987424\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills.jpg\" alt='Illustration: exterior of a Nigerian restaurant at nighttime. The awning reads, \"www.9jagrills.com\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/03/9jagrills-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located near the Jack London waterfront, 9jaGrills is open until midnight on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I can tell you for certain is that the plate of oxtails and jollof rice is a crowd pleaser. The rice alone was amazing: tomato-tinted and steaming hot, with a luxurious oiliness and a smoky, savory depth of flavor I couldn’t get enough of. It’s jollof so good you’d make a special trip just to eat it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the oxtails were slow-cooked in a dark, well-spiced gravy until they’d achieved just the right level of tenderness. When we sucked on each bone, all of the gelatinous skin and fat came clean off, and the prickle of chili heat in the sauce was incredibly addicting. These are oxtails so tasty that if you don’t watch your dining partner like a hawk, he’ll polish off the last several bones before you have a chance to protest. As a self-proclaimed \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">scholar of oxtails\u003c/a>, I couldn’t find a single flaw. On the side were some of the best fried plantains I’ve encountered in a long time — crisp and slightly charred on the outside, with an oozy sweetness that helped balance out all of the other heavier, more intense flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The oxtail dish by itself satisfied our hunger, but of course we didn’t stop there. We also ordered the whole fried pompano — a flat fish, vaguely flounder-like in appearance, with delicate flesh and a rich, earthy taste. It was incredibly satisfying picking that fish clean — dunking strips of it into the bright, searingly hot housemade pepper sauce, and dipping the eye sockets (don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it) into a tub of suya spice mix. The plate came with a heaping portion of the same excellent jollof and fried plantains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, we dug into the fragrant, spicy, palm oil–based stew known as ayamase, which 9jaGrills’ friendly owner had tried to steer us away from, warning us that it came with a kind of “local” Nigerian rice that Americans don’t tend to like, and asking, with some concern, whether we’d eaten Nigerian food before. With that kind of introduction, of course we had to order it, and it may have been the most memorable dish of the night. Ayamase consists mostly of beef offal: the liver, the intestines and especially the skin, cooked until it’s so tender and slippery that it practically melts in your mouth. The stew was studded with flat, toothsome locust beans and a hard-boiled egg — all delicious when mashed into the sauce, then ladled over the nutty whole-grain ofada rice, which was perfect for soaking up the stew’s oily richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crouched over our feast in the semi-darkness of 9jaGrills’ backyard patio, we shoveled rice into our mouths like we hadn’t eaten for days, and held the oxtail bones in our hands, inspecting each one to make sure we’d picked it clean. Then, utterly stuffed and hyped up on Naija beats, we stumbled back into the bright lights of the restaurant proper, like we’d just woken up from the most beautiful dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/9jagrills/\">\u003ci>9jaGrills\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Wednesday to Thursday noon–9 p.m., Friday to Saturday noon–midnight, and Sunday 2–10 p.m. at 303 Broadway in Oakland.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "SF’s Most Legendary Chicken Phở Is Now Available Until 3 a.m.",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986960\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986960\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg\" alt=\"A group of me devouring bowls of beef and chicken pho.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower, one of San Francisco’s most famous pho restaurants, has a new location in the Marina District. The restaurant is known for its northern-style chicken pho. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d made the mistake of coming to the Marina District at 10 o’clock on a Friday night, and on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/super-bowl\">Super Bowl\u003c/a> weekend, no less. The intersection of Fillmore and Greenwich was even \u003ci>more\u003c/i> chaotic than usual — both sides of the street swarming with half-drunk twentysomething frat-boy and sorority-girl types traveling in packs of six or eight. Everyone was decked out in their tightest skirts and bro-iest muscle shirts to stand in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/wine/article/balboa-cafe-bar-sf-19913258.php\">Balboa Cafe\u003c/a> or any of the half-dozen other bars that flank the block.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the Marina in a nutshell. Depending on your \u003ca href=\"https://sfstandard.com/2025/07/21/best-restaurants-bars-marina-sf/\">point of view\u003c/a>, it’s either the best or most obnoxious neighborhood in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe it goes without saying that our dowdy, middle-aged party did not trek to this corner of the Marina for espresso martinis or a night of sweaty, awkward flirtation. Instead, we’d come in search of much unlikelier treasure: the most wholesome bowl of chicken phở in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were hoping for, anyway, when we heard that \u003ca href=\"https://www.turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a> had opened a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reels/DToVxp2kt29/\">brand new location on Fillmore\u003c/a> — and, just as exciting, that it was dishing out hot phở until 3 a.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a serious phở slurper in San Francisco, you’re likely aware of Turtle Tower’s rise and fall and, now, rise again. Probably the most famous and widely beloved phở restaurant in San Francisco during its 25-year run, Turtle Tower operated four locations across the city at its peak. Regulars were understandably devastated, then, when the last location shut its doors in 2023 — and overjoyed when a new ownership group \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2025/3/19/24389523/san-francisco-turtle-tower-pho-restaurant-returns\">revived the business\u003c/a> with a sleek, well-appointed restaurant in the Financial District last spring. Then came the surprise news that Turtle Tower 2.0’s second location would be in the Marina, of all places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant. The sign up top reads, \"Turtle Tower.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower’s Marina location is open until 3 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open for about a month now, the new Fillmore Street restaurant has the look and feel of a swanky fusion restaurant, with low-pulsing electronic dance music and an abundance of stylishly backlit tropical greenery. A chic black-and-gold mural of what appears to be the Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long spans the back wall. All in all, it’s quite a makeover from the stripped-down, mom-and-pop vibe of the original Larkin Street restaurant, where I used to go for big weekend lunches with my family in the early aughts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The worry, of course, with the opening of a “fancier” Turtle Tower in a non-Asian neighborhood, is that the food is going to get whitewashed and watered down. Indeed, the first thing we noticed is that the menu didn’t list the “deluxe” version of the restaurant’s famous chicken phở (listed as “phở gà lòng” in the old days), which came with giblets and skin for a boost of texture and earthy oomph. When we asked our server about it, she smiled sheepishly and explained that, at least for now, they weren’t offering that version. “We weren’t sure if ‘Marina people’ would eat giblets,” she said. Which is, well, fair enough. (She noted, though, that a lot of Asian customers had been asking for them.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout our meal, there were other small signs of the “Marina-fication” of the restaurant: the (non-Asian) waitstaff’s confusion when one of us asked for some vinegar to mix into his dipping sauce for the phở meats. The fact that the phở arrived with only a single lime wedge and the tiniest imaginable pile of sliced jalapeños. (Not-so-pro tip: You just have to ask for more.) And, no surprise, the phở was priced about $5 higher than it was in the Tenderloin days, just a few years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when we actually dug into the food, we put aside all our skepticism. We started with an order of the fresh spring rolls stuffed with both shrimp and thin slices of pork — very light and very delicious, in large part because of the smokiness of the grilled pork, which lingered in our mouths. We also ordered the house-made crab chips (a perfect snack under any circumstance) and a plate of “Hanoi”-style chicken wings, which none of us remembered from any of the previous incarnations of Turtle Tower. These were whole, two-joint wings that we pulled apart with our hands, juicy and succulent, and fried to an attractive, crackly sheen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961997,arts_13954983,arts_13985780']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course the main attraction was the phở itself. Turtle Tower has always specialized in northern-style phở — one of the purest distillations of the form that you can find in the Bay Area. That means the broth is less sweet and incorporates fewer spices and fresh herbs; instead of the giant plate of basil and bean sprouts that you get at southern-style joints, the soup comes topped with just a flurry of chopped scallions and cilantro. What you’re meant to taste is the pure flavor of the chicken or beef itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It had been too long since I’d eaten at the old Turtle Tower for me to say with certainty that the chicken phở was exactly the same. But all it took was one sip of that broth — clear, refined, intensely chicken-y with just a hint of ginger — to be fully satisfied. The noodles were wide and soft and highly slurpable, and even without my precious giblets, I could appreciate the silkiness of the shreds of both dark and white chicken meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beef phở, which many of the restaurant’s Vietnamese regulars like even better than the chicken, is similarly minimalistic. Thin slices of rare beef come lightly pounded, in the northern style, for extra tenderness, and the broth, once again, homes in on the pure essence of beef flavor. Both phởs are the very embodiment of a soup that’ll cure what ails you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the new incarnation of Turtle Tower first opened in the Financial District, that location was also open late on weekends and ran a steeply discounted late-night happy hour menu starting at 11 p.m. — $2 oysters, $8 chicken wings, $4 beers and the like. Now that the Marina location is the only one keeping those late-night hours, the happy hour has been discontinued while the restaurant sorts out its liquor license. But once it does, a manager told us, they plan to start those deals up once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the night, we came away still a bit unsure of exactly what kind of “Marina person” the restaurant is hoping to attract, and how successful that effort has been. At least based on our visit, the crowd is a lot more restrained and low-key than we expected — no party people, just groups of two or three, mostly Asian Americans, quietly enjoying a bowl of phở at the end of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, everyone just seemed pleased to have found this little oasis of home-cooked goodness — a shelter from all the blustery noise outside. Most of them, I’d dare to venture, seemed like they could handle a bowl of giblets.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/turtletower.sf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Turtle Tower’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> Marina location is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–3 a.m. at 3145 Fillmore St. in San Francisco. The restaurant also has a location in the Financial District, at 220 California St., with shorter, non-late-night hours.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986960\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986960\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg\" alt=\"A group of me devouring bowls of beef and chicken pho.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower, one of San Francisco’s most famous pho restaurants, has a new location in the Marina District. The restaurant is known for its northern-style chicken pho. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d made the mistake of coming to the Marina District at 10 o’clock on a Friday night, and on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/super-bowl\">Super Bowl\u003c/a> weekend, no less. The intersection of Fillmore and Greenwich was even \u003ci>more\u003c/i> chaotic than usual — both sides of the street swarming with half-drunk twentysomething frat-boy and sorority-girl types traveling in packs of six or eight. Everyone was decked out in their tightest skirts and bro-iest muscle shirts to stand in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/wine/article/balboa-cafe-bar-sf-19913258.php\">Balboa Cafe\u003c/a> or any of the half-dozen other bars that flank the block.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the Marina in a nutshell. Depending on your \u003ca href=\"https://sfstandard.com/2025/07/21/best-restaurants-bars-marina-sf/\">point of view\u003c/a>, it’s either the best or most obnoxious neighborhood in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe it goes without saying that our dowdy, middle-aged party did not trek to this corner of the Marina for espresso martinis or a night of sweaty, awkward flirtation. Instead, we’d come in search of much unlikelier treasure: the most wholesome bowl of chicken phở in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were hoping for, anyway, when we heard that \u003ca href=\"https://www.turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a> had opened a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reels/DToVxp2kt29/\">brand new location on Fillmore\u003c/a> — and, just as exciting, that it was dishing out hot phở until 3 a.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a serious phở slurper in San Francisco, you’re likely aware of Turtle Tower’s rise and fall and, now, rise again. Probably the most famous and widely beloved phở restaurant in San Francisco during its 25-year run, Turtle Tower operated four locations across the city at its peak. Regulars were understandably devastated, then, when the last location shut its doors in 2023 — and overjoyed when a new ownership group \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2025/3/19/24389523/san-francisco-turtle-tower-pho-restaurant-returns\">revived the business\u003c/a> with a sleek, well-appointed restaurant in the Financial District last spring. Then came the surprise news that Turtle Tower 2.0’s second location would be in the Marina, of all places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant. The sign up top reads, \"Turtle Tower.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower’s Marina location is open until 3 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open for about a month now, the new Fillmore Street restaurant has the look and feel of a swanky fusion restaurant, with low-pulsing electronic dance music and an abundance of stylishly backlit tropical greenery. A chic black-and-gold mural of what appears to be the Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long spans the back wall. All in all, it’s quite a makeover from the stripped-down, mom-and-pop vibe of the original Larkin Street restaurant, where I used to go for big weekend lunches with my family in the early aughts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The worry, of course, with the opening of a “fancier” Turtle Tower in a non-Asian neighborhood, is that the food is going to get whitewashed and watered down. Indeed, the first thing we noticed is that the menu didn’t list the “deluxe” version of the restaurant’s famous chicken phở (listed as “phở gà lòng” in the old days), which came with giblets and skin for a boost of texture and earthy oomph. When we asked our server about it, she smiled sheepishly and explained that, at least for now, they weren’t offering that version. “We weren’t sure if ‘Marina people’ would eat giblets,” she said. Which is, well, fair enough. (She noted, though, that a lot of Asian customers had been asking for them.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout our meal, there were other small signs of the “Marina-fication” of the restaurant: the (non-Asian) waitstaff’s confusion when one of us asked for some vinegar to mix into his dipping sauce for the phở meats. The fact that the phở arrived with only a single lime wedge and the tiniest imaginable pile of sliced jalapeños. (Not-so-pro tip: You just have to ask for more.) And, no surprise, the phở was priced about $5 higher than it was in the Tenderloin days, just a few years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when we actually dug into the food, we put aside all our skepticism. We started with an order of the fresh spring rolls stuffed with both shrimp and thin slices of pork — very light and very delicious, in large part because of the smokiness of the grilled pork, which lingered in our mouths. We also ordered the house-made crab chips (a perfect snack under any circumstance) and a plate of “Hanoi”-style chicken wings, which none of us remembered from any of the previous incarnations of Turtle Tower. These were whole, two-joint wings that we pulled apart with our hands, juicy and succulent, and fried to an attractive, crackly sheen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course the main attraction was the phở itself. Turtle Tower has always specialized in northern-style phở — one of the purest distillations of the form that you can find in the Bay Area. That means the broth is less sweet and incorporates fewer spices and fresh herbs; instead of the giant plate of basil and bean sprouts that you get at southern-style joints, the soup comes topped with just a flurry of chopped scallions and cilantro. What you’re meant to taste is the pure flavor of the chicken or beef itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It had been too long since I’d eaten at the old Turtle Tower for me to say with certainty that the chicken phở was exactly the same. But all it took was one sip of that broth — clear, refined, intensely chicken-y with just a hint of ginger — to be fully satisfied. The noodles were wide and soft and highly slurpable, and even without my precious giblets, I could appreciate the silkiness of the shreds of both dark and white chicken meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beef phở, which many of the restaurant’s Vietnamese regulars like even better than the chicken, is similarly minimalistic. Thin slices of rare beef come lightly pounded, in the northern style, for extra tenderness, and the broth, once again, homes in on the pure essence of beef flavor. Both phởs are the very embodiment of a soup that’ll cure what ails you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the new incarnation of Turtle Tower first opened in the Financial District, that location was also open late on weekends and ran a steeply discounted late-night happy hour menu starting at 11 p.m. — $2 oysters, $8 chicken wings, $4 beers and the like. Now that the Marina location is the only one keeping those late-night hours, the happy hour has been discontinued while the restaurant sorts out its liquor license. But once it does, a manager told us, they plan to start those deals up once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the night, we came away still a bit unsure of exactly what kind of “Marina person” the restaurant is hoping to attract, and how successful that effort has been. At least based on our visit, the crowd is a lot more restrained and low-key than we expected — no party people, just groups of two or three, mostly Asian Americans, quietly enjoying a bowl of phở at the end of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, everyone just seemed pleased to have found this little oasis of home-cooked goodness — a shelter from all the blustery noise outside. Most of them, I’d dare to venture, seemed like they could handle a bowl of giblets.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/turtletower.sf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Turtle Tower’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> Marina location is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–3 a.m. at 3145 Fillmore St. in San Francisco. The restaurant also has a location in the Financial District, at 220 California St., with shorter, non-late-night hours.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Revisiting Smokehouse, a Berkeley Classic for Late-Night Burgers and Shakes",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985783\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985783\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smokehouse specializes in fire-grilled burgers and hot dogs. The Berkeley staple stays open until midnight on weekends. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brianabreaks/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Briana Loewinsohn\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> joined the burger party.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lit up like a beacon on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/berkeley\">Berkeley\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">Smokehouse\u003c/a> is a picture-postcard image of a classic American burger shack: the big, red, retro diner–style sign; the no-frills menu; the string lights twinkling over the cluster of picnic tables in back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent chilly Friday night, we could smell the smoke and the charred meat from all the way down the block. Jackpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d come because we were in the mood for a fast food–style char-grilled burger — and, like generations of Berkleyans before us, we knew that Smokehouse was \u003ci>the \u003c/i>spot to satisfy that craving, especially after 10 or 11 o’clock at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open since 1951, the restaurant has a frozen-in-time quality that we found incredibly charming. The one of us who’d been a Smokehouse regular as a high schooler in the ’90s spotted only a handful of visible changes: Now, you order outside from a guy manning a tablet set up on a wheelie cart instead of lining up inside the restaurant itself. There’s now an Impossible Burger on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/menu/\">menu\u003c/a>. And, after a \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2020/11/20/the-smokehouse-berkeley-burger-restaurant-reopening\">post-fire renovation\u003c/a> during the pandemic, the grassy back patio has gotten a nice little makeover — if you come earlier in the day, there are always a bunch of kids running around on the lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other gesture to modernity: Smokehouse now has one of those \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/IndustrialDesign/comments/hlr50d/what_you_guys_think_about_this_freestyle_coke/\">Coke Freestyle machines\u003c/a> — a relatively rare sighting in the non-movie-theater wilds — adding 60-some flavors’ worth of whimsy and mad science to your burger shop experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Otherwise, the place feels more or less the same as it always has. Even as the prices have crept up over the years, the burgers and hot dogs are still shockingly inexpensive by Bay Area standards — less than $9, for instance, for a double cheeseburger. Now, as always, the restaurant is the kind of place where \u003ci>everyone \u003c/i>in Berkeley goes. During our visit, we saw a multi-generational Filipino family, a handful of elderly couples who seemed like they lived in the neighborhood, a pack of teens, a couple of professor types, and several college kids enjoying the last gasp of their winter break. It was a nice, welcoming vibe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985784\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985784\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a burger shack lit up at night. The retro-style red sign reads, \"Smokehouse.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has been open on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey since 1951. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s be real, though: If you’ve come to Smokehouse, it’s probably because you want to see your food get set on fire. The big sign outside touts the restaurant’s “flame-grilled” hot dogs and burgers, and that’s something the line cooks take seriously. Every minute or so, the entire grill bursts into massive flames, engulfing everything on it. And that’s the taste I crave: The cheeseburgers at Smokehouse are super-simple (my order is lettuce, diced onion, caramelized onion, hold the tomato, add a little tub of cherry peppers on the side), but the deep smoky, charred flavor that they get on the patties is tough to beat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13985042,arts_13983249,arts_13954597']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The fire-grilling also makes for some of the tastiest hot dogs in town — snappy and juicy, but with that extra dimension of smokiness like you get when you cook over a campfire. (Be forewarned that when they ask if you want everything on your hot dog, they really do mean \u003ci>everything \u003c/i>— we probably could have done with a little less relish, onions and ketchup.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it went with the rest of what we ordered. Everything was better, or at least as good, as it needed to be: the thick-cut fries that were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The extra-crunchy, frizzled onion rings that were cooked perfectly so you could bite through them cleanly. The savory, bean-forward chili with exactly the right texture for adhering to your fries or hot dog. The just-thick-enough straight chocolate shake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not a “gourmet” destination meal by any stretch. But on many, many nights, it’s exactly the meal that hits the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">\u003ci>Smokehouse\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Mon. to Thursday 10:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 10:30 a.m.–midnight and Sun. 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. at 3115 Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985783\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985783\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smokehouse specializes in fire-grilled burgers and hot dogs. The Berkeley staple stays open until midnight on weekends. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brianabreaks/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Briana Loewinsohn\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> joined the burger party.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lit up like a beacon on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/berkeley\">Berkeley\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">Smokehouse\u003c/a> is a picture-postcard image of a classic American burger shack: the big, red, retro diner–style sign; the no-frills menu; the string lights twinkling over the cluster of picnic tables in back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent chilly Friday night, we could smell the smoke and the charred meat from all the way down the block. Jackpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d come because we were in the mood for a fast food–style char-grilled burger — and, like generations of Berkleyans before us, we knew that Smokehouse was \u003ci>the \u003c/i>spot to satisfy that craving, especially after 10 or 11 o’clock at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open since 1951, the restaurant has a frozen-in-time quality that we found incredibly charming. The one of us who’d been a Smokehouse regular as a high schooler in the ’90s spotted only a handful of visible changes: Now, you order outside from a guy manning a tablet set up on a wheelie cart instead of lining up inside the restaurant itself. There’s now an Impossible Burger on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/menu/\">menu\u003c/a>. And, after a \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2020/11/20/the-smokehouse-berkeley-burger-restaurant-reopening\">post-fire renovation\u003c/a> during the pandemic, the grassy back patio has gotten a nice little makeover — if you come earlier in the day, there are always a bunch of kids running around on the lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other gesture to modernity: Smokehouse now has one of those \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/IndustrialDesign/comments/hlr50d/what_you_guys_think_about_this_freestyle_coke/\">Coke Freestyle machines\u003c/a> — a relatively rare sighting in the non-movie-theater wilds — adding 60-some flavors’ worth of whimsy and mad science to your burger shop experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Otherwise, the place feels more or less the same as it always has. Even as the prices have crept up over the years, the burgers and hot dogs are still shockingly inexpensive by Bay Area standards — less than $9, for instance, for a double cheeseburger. Now, as always, the restaurant is the kind of place where \u003ci>everyone \u003c/i>in Berkeley goes. During our visit, we saw a multi-generational Filipino family, a handful of elderly couples who seemed like they lived in the neighborhood, a pack of teens, a couple of professor types, and several college kids enjoying the last gasp of their winter break. It was a nice, welcoming vibe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985784\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985784\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a burger shack lit up at night. The retro-style red sign reads, \"Smokehouse.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has been open on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey since 1951. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s be real, though: If you’ve come to Smokehouse, it’s probably because you want to see your food get set on fire. The big sign outside touts the restaurant’s “flame-grilled” hot dogs and burgers, and that’s something the line cooks take seriously. Every minute or so, the entire grill bursts into massive flames, engulfing everything on it. And that’s the taste I crave: The cheeseburgers at Smokehouse are super-simple (my order is lettuce, diced onion, caramelized onion, hold the tomato, add a little tub of cherry peppers on the side), but the deep smoky, charred flavor that they get on the patties is tough to beat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The fire-grilling also makes for some of the tastiest hot dogs in town — snappy and juicy, but with that extra dimension of smokiness like you get when you cook over a campfire. (Be forewarned that when they ask if you want everything on your hot dog, they really do mean \u003ci>everything \u003c/i>— we probably could have done with a little less relish, onions and ketchup.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it went with the rest of what we ordered. Everything was better, or at least as good, as it needed to be: the thick-cut fries that were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The extra-crunchy, frizzled onion rings that were cooked perfectly so you could bite through them cleanly. The savory, bean-forward chili with exactly the right texture for adhering to your fries or hot dog. The just-thick-enough straight chocolate shake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not a “gourmet” destination meal by any stretch. But on many, many nights, it’s exactly the meal that hits the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">\u003ci>Smokehouse\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Mon. to Thursday 10:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 10:30 a.m.–midnight and Sun. 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. at 3115 Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985045\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985045\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vostok is one of the only Bay Area food businesses that specializes in the cuisine of Kyrgyzstan: shwarma, plov and wok-fried lagman. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101891054/finding-amazing-food-in-unlikely-places\">Contrary to popular belief\u003c/a>, I don’t purchase \u003ci>all\u003c/i> of my meals from gas station convenience stores and food trucks parked outside of gas stations. But when I do, I’ve experienced close to a 100% rate of deliciousness — immaculately crunchy-skinned \u003ca href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20190412201350/https://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/the-best-fried-chicken-sf-just-might-be-mission-gas-station\">Cajun fried chicken\u003c/a>, juicy \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13950577/halal-king-yemeni-restaurant-gas-station-richmond\">Yemeni scrambled eggs\u003c/a> ladled over hot pita, and behemothic \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/2/11/22275500/tacos-el-rulas-truck-berkeley-quesabirria-torta-cubana-handmade-tortillas\">tortas Cubanas\u003c/a> oozing with melted cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somehow, the dodgier and more middle-of-nowhere the gas station, the tastier the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were feeling pretty hyped, then, when we pulled into the Platinum gas station in Santa Clara at 9 o’clock on a recent chilly Thursday night to try the cuisine of Kyrgyzstan for the first time in our lives. Tucked behind the gas station mini-mart, hidden in the semi-darkness, was the halal food truck we’d driven an hour to find, its name, “Vostok Gyro & Shawarma,” emblazoned on top in a jaunty, colorful typeface.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within the grand constellation of Bay Area food trucks, Vostok is a bit of an anomaly, due in part to its unusually long business hours, from noon to 11 p.m. daily. Based on the steady stream of customers we witnessed during our visit, the truck only gets busier as the night gets later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even more notably, Vostok is one of the only dedicated Kyrgyz food businesses in the Bay Area (I’m aware of just \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/dining-out-in-sf/204818/nursel-cuisine-kyrgyzstani-restaurant-peninsula-san-carlos\">one other\u003c/a>). There’s been a small uptick in Central Asian restaurants in the past few years — in places specializing in, say, Uyghur or Uzbek dishes. Afghan food, another cousin of these cuisines, has been a Bay Area staple going back to the ’80s and ’90s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kyrgyzstan, on the other hand, remains widely underrepresented. The country shares a border with Xinjiang, China, to the east, and Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan to the north and west. Its food, likewise, is an amalgamation of all of these regional influences — a kind of culinary middle ground between Russian pelmeni and borscht, Chinese noodles, and the well-spiced shawarma and kebabs that you can find in much of the Arabic-speaking world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985046\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985046\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: A food truck lit up at night. The sign on top reads, \"Vostok Gyro & Shawarma.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located in the parking lot of a Santa Clara gas station, Vostok is open from noon to 11 p.m. daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of which is to say that the food at Vostok is \u003ci>delicious\u003c/i>, and several degrees more ambitious than what you might expect from a typical food truck, thanks in part to the fact that it’s rigged with both vertical shawarma spits and a wok station. Just about everything on the menu is cooked to order and comes out piping hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were sold as soon as we had our first taste of the crispy fried pelmeni — tiny, crescent-shaped beef dumplings that burst with meaty juices when we bit in. They were especially tasty dipped in the accompanying tub of dill-infused sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Vostok’s Kyrgyz-style shawarma wraps, which come in regular or “king” size, have their own distinct vibe that sets them apart from the shawarma you might get at a Turkish or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894684/toum-shawarmaji-jordanian-restaurant-oakland-garlic-sauce\">Jordanian\u003c/a> spot. We opted for the beef shawarma, and the meat was both juicier and steakier than we expected. Instead of hitting us with a garlic bomb, the sauce was tangy and dill-forward, with a hint of sweetness. The combination of textures and flavors was fantastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What really won me over, though, was the plov, a casserole-like rice dish flecked with tender stew beef, whole garlic cloves, and slivers of carrot cooked very soft. The main thing is that the long-grain rice comes out slicked brown with the grease and juices from the beef, which makes the whole thing incredibly decadent and delicious — not unlike, say, Afghan Qabili palaw. On the side, you get a little tub of raw onions and tomato to use as a garnish, cutting into the richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the dish I’ll be coming back for again and again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13983739,arts_13973430,arts_13950577']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Finally, we dug into the wok lagman, which is the Kyrgyz and Uyghur take on wok-fried hand-pulled noodles — like a super-premium version of the stir-fried noodles you might get at a Chinese takeout spot. The noodles were thick, chewy and steaming-hot; the beef tender and slightly sweet, like pepper steak. The bowl came loaded with vegetables, too: bell peppers, onions, garlic and crisp wood ear mushrooms. Every part of the dish had that addictive charred, smoky, “wok hei” quality that you only get from high-heat wok cooking. It was the perfect thing to eat on a chilly night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to the truck, Vostok’s proprietors have set up a little tented dining area, with a patio heater and string lights — or they’re in the process of setting it up, anyway. During our visit, neither lights nor heater were working, but that didn’t stop the small gaggle of middle-aged men who were seated there in the darkness, chatting over shawarma wraps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But most customers took their food to go. Others, who didn’t want to wait, sat inside their cars, opened up their takeout cartons and immediately dug in. A few, like us, simply laid out our feast on the hood of our cars, spilling chalap (a fizzy salted yogurt drink) onto the fender, slurping up the lagman and shoveling plov into our mouths as quickly as we could. The food was so hot and soul-nourishing, we forgot all about the cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/vostok_shawarma/\">\u003ci>Vostok Gyro & Shawarma\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open noon–11 p.m. daily at 36 Washington St. in Santa Clara (in the Platinum gas station parking lot).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985045\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985045\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vostok is one of the only Bay Area food businesses that specializes in the cuisine of Kyrgyzstan: shwarma, plov and wok-fried lagman. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101891054/finding-amazing-food-in-unlikely-places\">Contrary to popular belief\u003c/a>, I don’t purchase \u003ci>all\u003c/i> of my meals from gas station convenience stores and food trucks parked outside of gas stations. But when I do, I’ve experienced close to a 100% rate of deliciousness — immaculately crunchy-skinned \u003ca href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20190412201350/https://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco/story/the-best-fried-chicken-sf-just-might-be-mission-gas-station\">Cajun fried chicken\u003c/a>, juicy \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13950577/halal-king-yemeni-restaurant-gas-station-richmond\">Yemeni scrambled eggs\u003c/a> ladled over hot pita, and behemothic \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/2/11/22275500/tacos-el-rulas-truck-berkeley-quesabirria-torta-cubana-handmade-tortillas\">tortas Cubanas\u003c/a> oozing with melted cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somehow, the dodgier and more middle-of-nowhere the gas station, the tastier the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were feeling pretty hyped, then, when we pulled into the Platinum gas station in Santa Clara at 9 o’clock on a recent chilly Thursday night to try the cuisine of Kyrgyzstan for the first time in our lives. Tucked behind the gas station mini-mart, hidden in the semi-darkness, was the halal food truck we’d driven an hour to find, its name, “Vostok Gyro & Shawarma,” emblazoned on top in a jaunty, colorful typeface.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within the grand constellation of Bay Area food trucks, Vostok is a bit of an anomaly, due in part to its unusually long business hours, from noon to 11 p.m. daily. Based on the steady stream of customers we witnessed during our visit, the truck only gets busier as the night gets later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even more notably, Vostok is one of the only dedicated Kyrgyz food businesses in the Bay Area (I’m aware of just \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/dining-out-in-sf/204818/nursel-cuisine-kyrgyzstani-restaurant-peninsula-san-carlos\">one other\u003c/a>). There’s been a small uptick in Central Asian restaurants in the past few years — in places specializing in, say, Uyghur or Uzbek dishes. Afghan food, another cousin of these cuisines, has been a Bay Area staple going back to the ’80s and ’90s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kyrgyzstan, on the other hand, remains widely underrepresented. The country shares a border with Xinjiang, China, to the east, and Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan to the north and west. Its food, likewise, is an amalgamation of all of these regional influences — a kind of culinary middle ground between Russian pelmeni and borscht, Chinese noodles, and the well-spiced shawarma and kebabs that you can find in much of the Arabic-speaking world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985046\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985046\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: A food truck lit up at night. The sign on top reads, \"Vostok Gyro & Shawarma.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/vostok2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located in the parking lot of a Santa Clara gas station, Vostok is open from noon to 11 p.m. daily. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of which is to say that the food at Vostok is \u003ci>delicious\u003c/i>, and several degrees more ambitious than what you might expect from a typical food truck, thanks in part to the fact that it’s rigged with both vertical shawarma spits and a wok station. Just about everything on the menu is cooked to order and comes out piping hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were sold as soon as we had our first taste of the crispy fried pelmeni — tiny, crescent-shaped beef dumplings that burst with meaty juices when we bit in. They were especially tasty dipped in the accompanying tub of dill-infused sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Vostok’s Kyrgyz-style shawarma wraps, which come in regular or “king” size, have their own distinct vibe that sets them apart from the shawarma you might get at a Turkish or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894684/toum-shawarmaji-jordanian-restaurant-oakland-garlic-sauce\">Jordanian\u003c/a> spot. We opted for the beef shawarma, and the meat was both juicier and steakier than we expected. Instead of hitting us with a garlic bomb, the sauce was tangy and dill-forward, with a hint of sweetness. The combination of textures and flavors was fantastic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What really won me over, though, was the plov, a casserole-like rice dish flecked with tender stew beef, whole garlic cloves, and slivers of carrot cooked very soft. The main thing is that the long-grain rice comes out slicked brown with the grease and juices from the beef, which makes the whole thing incredibly decadent and delicious — not unlike, say, Afghan Qabili palaw. On the side, you get a little tub of raw onions and tomato to use as a garnish, cutting into the richness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the dish I’ll be coming back for again and again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Finally, we dug into the wok lagman, which is the Kyrgyz and Uyghur take on wok-fried hand-pulled noodles — like a super-premium version of the stir-fried noodles you might get at a Chinese takeout spot. The noodles were thick, chewy and steaming-hot; the beef tender and slightly sweet, like pepper steak. The bowl came loaded with vegetables, too: bell peppers, onions, garlic and crisp wood ear mushrooms. Every part of the dish had that addictive charred, smoky, “wok hei” quality that you only get from high-heat wok cooking. It was the perfect thing to eat on a chilly night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to the truck, Vostok’s proprietors have set up a little tented dining area, with a patio heater and string lights — or they’re in the process of setting it up, anyway. During our visit, neither lights nor heater were working, but that didn’t stop the small gaggle of middle-aged men who were seated there in the darkness, chatting over shawarma wraps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But most customers took their food to go. Others, who didn’t want to wait, sat inside their cars, opened up their takeout cartons and immediately dug in. A few, like us, simply laid out our feast on the hood of our cars, spilling chalap (a fizzy salted yogurt drink) onto the fender, slurping up the lagman and shoveling plov into our mouths as quickly as we could. The food was so hot and soul-nourishing, we forgot all about the cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/vostok_shawarma/\">\u003ci>Vostok Gyro & Shawarma\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open noon–11 p.m. daily at 36 Washington St. in Santa Clara (in the Platinum gas station parking lot).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"radiolab": {
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"reveal": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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},
"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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