Harry’s Hofbrau Is a Late-Night Throwback for $20 Steak Dinners

The Midnight Diners is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist (and rotisserie chicken enthusiast) Briana Loewinsohn joined them in the hofbrau line.

It’s been a couple of decades since I’ve eaten at the EPCOT Center’s themed dining pavilions. But Harry’s Hofbrau in San Leandro might be the closest I’ve gotten to its pleasantly cheesy theme-park vibe while dining out in the Bay.

At Harry’s, you’re greeted at the door by a procession of jolly statues (a paunchy, mustachioed chef; a beer chugger in lederhosen), all gussied up in leprechaun green if you come the week before St. Patrick’s Day, as we did. The restaurant is huge, nostalgically appointed in the style of a German hunting lodge, and perpetually decked out with colorful streamers, balloons and twinkle lights for Christmas, or St. Patty’s, or Thanksgiving. You wait in a long cafeteria queue, and when you finally reach the front, one of the knife-wielding maestros in a jaunty white chef’s toque hands you a plastic tray with a plate piled high with gravy-drenched sliced meats.

It is perfection, in its way.

Above all else, Harry’s is a restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously. It’s a proper hofbrau — one of the last in a dying breed of cafeteria-style restaurants, mostly unique to the Bay Area, that specialize in freshly carved roasted meats and inexpensive draft beer. It also happens to be one of the few remaining places in the Bay where you can get a big steak (or roast turkey, or corned-beef-and-cabbage) dinner for around $20.

And, of special relevance to our interests, the place stays open late, too — until 11 p.m. on weekends.

That said, the crowd at Harry’s, at a little past 9 p.m. on a recent Friday, didn’t exactly feel like a crowd. There wasn’t much of a line at this late hour, and because the cavernous dining room is so big, only about a third of the tables were occupied. It was one of the more diverse dining rooms I’ve been in for a while, ethically and racially (an even split between Black, white, Latino and Asian), if not in terms of age. Indeed, apart from one lone table of teens, our middle-aged crew appeared to be the only party in the entire restaurant under the age of 60. One cushy booth was occupied by a group of older ladies in matching custodial uniforms. A number of solo diners quietly ate their plates of roast beef and mashed potatoes by themselves — tired and contemplative at the end of a long workday, it seemed.

This, too, is part of the restaurant’s charm. The San Leandro hofbrau — along with the original Redwood City location, which dates back to the 1950s — is one of the few Bay Area restaurants where you can walk in with a group of 10 or 15 at 10 o’clock on a Saturday night and have everyone seated and enjoying a hot meal within a matter of minutes. For a big, casual family reunion, last-minute birthday party or after-work group-decompression session, Harry’s is an easy crowdpleaser.

The heart of the carvery is the cafeteria-style steam table counter where diners can choose from a dizzying array of roasted meats, the most popular of which are the turkey (for a Thanksgiving anytime vibe), the roast beef and the corned beef — normally a Thursday dinner special, but served all week long in the lead-up to St. Patrick’s Day.

The most devoted Harry’s loyalist in our group stuck with her usual rotisserie chicken dinner, which she described as being just like the more famous turkey dinner “but cheaper and tastier.” For about $17, you get a half a chicken, a huge mound of mashed potatoes soaked in your choice of beef or turkey gravy (both excellent), a dinner roll and an additional side of your choosing. While you don’t come to a place like Harry’s expecting complicated spices or pasture-raised birds, the dark meat on that chicken was tender and succulent, the gravy made up for the slight dryness of the breast, and the skin was especially well seasoned and delicious — all in all, several steps up from a Boston Market (or your local equivalent).

The house-cured corned beef and cabbage, meanwhile, was just fine — sliced thick, generously portioned, and tasty enough, especially when drenched in the house au jus. The accompanying cabbage, carrots and potatoes were just plainly boiled, though. You’ll have to doctor them up with salt and butter at the table if you find them bland.

My favorite, by far, was the Santa Maria–style tri tip — a nod to California’s own homegrown style of barbecue — which Harry’s serves as a special on Friday nights. Even carved off the small nub of the roast left over at the end of the night, the thin slices of beef were still perfectly tender and pink, with a pronounced smoky flavor that lingered on the tongue. It was fantastic soaked in au jus, with a dab of the bottled horseradish cream available on each table.

(Pro tip: You can always ask for more au jus or gravy. Don’t make the same mistake I did, confidently walking up to a dispenser in the dining area to pour myself a tub. Those are hot coffee dispensers, not au jus or gravy dispensers — though I can’t be the only one who’s suggested that those would be an amazing amenity.)

The restaurant’s other signature is its mashed potatoes, which aren’t “gourmet” in any way, but look just like a version you might see on a 1950s picture postcard, and taste just as rich and nostalgic. While none of the other side dishes we tried were strictly delicious, the range of hot and cold options on the steam table is another part of what makes the Harry’s experience fun and vaguely buffet-like. For balance, I’d recommend getting some kind of green vegetable: I liked the mixed grilled veggies (exactly like you’d get at a backyard cookout) better than the limp Caesar salad with oddly soft croutons.

You’ll want to save a little bit of room for dessert too. Even though my tablemates mocked my enthusiasm for the blueberry pie — which they, in their ignorance, deemed too thick-crusted and overly sweet — I can never resist ordering a slice. This night’s specimen was especially perfect-looking, like a cartoon drawing of a slice of pie, with its crinkly sparkly-sugar topping and thick filling of glistening berries.

I polished off most of the pie by myself, with a cup of strong hot coffee. Like just about everything else at Harry’s, it tasted like the most pleasant memory.

Harry’s Hofbrau is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. and Friday to Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. at 14900 E. 14th St. in San Leandro. The restaurant’s other location, at 1909 El Camino Real in Redwood City, is open until 11 p.m. one additional night, on Thursdays.