If Big Food Buys Your Favorite 'Natural' Food Brand, Will You Trust It?
EcoFarm Conference, Day 2: Biodiversity and Livestock
Book Review: Gristle (Thinking Twice About the Meat We Eat)
Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto
Green Chile Kitchen Revisited, Reranted
Sponsored
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the poultry giant, acquired the Niman Ranch name and reputation of raising animals without antibiotics in September.","publishDate":1444760481,"status":"inherit","parent":102129,"modified":1444760893,"caption":"Perdue, the poultry giant, acquired the Niman Ranch name and reputation of raising animals without antibiotics in September.","credit":"John Greim/Universal Images Group/Getty Images ","description":"Perdue, the poultry giant, acquired the Niman Ranch name and reputation of raising animals without antibiotics in 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Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"},"stuartleavenworth":{"type":"authors","id":"5059","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5059","found":true},"name":"Stuart Leavenworth","firstName":"Stuart","lastName":"Leavenworth","slug":"stuartleavenworth","email":"sleavenworth@sacbee.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"I am a veteran newspaper reporter who has transcended to the life of a kitchen slave. In April, I took a leave from The Sacramento Bee, where I work as a columnist and editorial writer, to intern at Oliveto, an Italian restaurant in Oakland. Until at least September, I will be working five days a week at the restaurant, learning basic culinary skills and helping Oliveto prepare its nightly dishes. What will happen at the end of my sabbatical? Who knows? At the very least, I'll be a far better chef than when I started. I've been a dedicated home cook for more than 20 years, largely because of the inspiration of my wife, Micaela Massimino. Mickie and I have been fortunate enough to travel extensively in Italy, France, the Deep South, New Mexico, Vietnam and Japan, and we enjoy cooking food from all of those places. I also have some experience in writing about food -- particularly the environmental consequences of food production. In the 1990s, I covered the rise of industrial hog farming in North Carolina, while working at the Raleigh News & Observer. Since moving back to California in 1999 and joining The Bee, I've specialized in coverage of water issues and threats to the state's fisheries. When I am not cooking, eating or writing, I like to take long rides on my various bicycles, which helps build an appetite for more cooking, eating and writing.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/26ad3b6dc9f53084e56e616bc5fb34be?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stuart Leavenworth | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/26ad3b6dc9f53084e56e616bc5fb34be?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/26ad3b6dc9f53084e56e616bc5fb34be?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stuartleavenworth"},"andrewsimmons":{"type":"authors","id":"5060","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5060","found":true},"name":"Andrew Simmons","firstName":"Andrew","lastName":"Simmons","slug":"andrewsimmons","email":"adlsimmons@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Andrew is from Louisville, Kentucky. He lives in San Francisco, plays music, works with kids, and writes for a variety of magazines and newspapers, including The Oakland Tribune, The Contra Costa County Times, Wine Enthusiast, The Onion, and Thrasher. Pro: hush puppies, green garlic, caramel ice cream, Japanese sweet potatoes, smelts, Larb Ped, beer, wine, cocktails, and assorted dumplings; con: milk, chips, and candy.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/42e85c65b8e2ff85837caa9418e48a7a?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Andrew Simmons | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/42e85c65b8e2ff85837caa9418e48a7a?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/42e85c65b8e2ff85837caa9418e48a7a?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/andrewsimmons"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_102129":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102129","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102129","score":null,"sort":[1444761196000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"if-big-food-buys-your-favorite-natural-food-brand-will-you-trust-it","title":"If Big Food Buys Your Favorite 'Natural' Food Brand, Will You Trust It?","publishDate":1444761196,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151012_atc_if_big_food_buys_your_favorite_natural_food_brand_will_you_trust_it.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big food companies are buying up small ones. \u003ca href=\"http://www.coca-colacompany.com/brands/honest-tea\">Honest Tea\u003c/a> is now part of Coca-Cola. The French company Danone controls \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonyfield.com/\">Stonyfield\u003c/a> yogurt. Hormel owns \u003ca href=\"http://www.applegate.com/\">Applegate\u003c/a> natural and organic meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cornucopia Institute has put together a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cornucopia.org/who-owns-organic/\">poster\u003c/a> that shows the full extent of the merger wave, at least for the organic industry. In the latest deal, announced a few weeks ago, Perdue Farms, a big poultry producer based in Maryland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-09-08/perdue-farms-to-buy-natural-food-holdings-from-lnk-partners\">bought\u003c/a> Niman Ranch, which started as an idealistic group of farmers protesting against companies like Perdue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For shoppers who like their food natural, local and organic, though, these deals can be unsettling. Will they still trust a food brand if someone else now owns it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it happens, some of the founders of those companies wonder the same thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take these three: Bill Niman, Gene Kahn and Grant Lundberg. Niman started Niman Ranch, Kahn founded \u003ca href=\"http://www.cascadianfarm.com/\">Cascadian Farm\u003c/a>, a pioneer of organic food, and Grant Lundberg is CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lundberg.com/\">Lundberg Family Farms\u003c/a>, which sells organic rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each of these companies started with its own vision of a better way to grow food. \"For us, the innovation was raising animals without the use of pharmaceuticals and chemicals,\" Niman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At roughly the same time, in the early 1970s, Gene Kahn started a back-to-the-land experiment that turned into a business. \"I became enamored by the whole notion of agriculture, and farming, and improving the environmental performance of agriculture,\" he says. Grant Lundberg's grandparents, for their part, were influenced by the trauma of the Dust Bowl. \"Remembering some of those experiences, they started to farm a little different from their neighbors,\" Lundberg says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102134\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch.jpg\" alt=\"A grilled Niman Ranch pork chop. Perdue Farms, a big poultry producer based in Maryland, bought Niman Ranch in September. \" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-102134\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch.jpg 300w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-75x75.jpg 75w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A grilled Niman Ranch pork chop. Perdue Farms, a big poultry producer based in Maryland, bought Niman Ranch in September. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/eehgow/7146901015/\" target=\"_blank\">Ego Faylona/Flickr \u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to a vision, though, these companies had ambition. They wanted to expand, and they did, riding a wave of demand for humanely raised meat, organic fruit and organic rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's when big, conventional food companies started calling with marriage proposals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have offers a lot,\" Lundberg says. \"They want to explore, they want to talk about the idea of purchasing, or making an investment in the company.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So these founders (or, in the case of the Lundberg family, the grandchildren of the founders) all faced a choice. Should they sell? Would it be selling out?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gene Kahn, from Cascadian Farm, can't stand that phrase \"because it's so akin to selling out your soul to the devil.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says it's not that simple. Part of the pitch that the big companies typically make involves a promise to expand the company's vision, converting more land to organic farming, or raising more animals without hormones and drugs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Who do you want to work with, if you're really committed to improving agriculture?\" Kahn asks. \"Who is it that you want to talk [to]? Do you want to just talk to yourself? Or do you want to talk to the people who control all the acres?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of these food idealists has anything against the sheer size of big food companies, by the way. They agree: Big can be good. Efficiency makes food affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're a cynic if you say only small companies can ... have values, aren't you?\" Lundberg says. \"Somehow you have to believe that size doesn't matter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each founder, however, has pursued a different path.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lundberg family has spurned all offers. Grant Lundberg says that his company doesn't really need investors. And if you sell, he says, there's no way to make sure that the name Lundberg Family Farms \"would continue to represent that commitment to the environment, producing high-quality food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gene Kahn, though, sold Cascadian Farm to one of the biggest food companies in America: General Mills. That was 15 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says it's worked out really well. \"They've not only preserved the ethics and the whole vision of the company, they've improved it,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bill Niman, meanwhile, has complicated feelings about the recent sale of Niman Ranch to Perdue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Right now, I feel pretty good about it,\" he says. Niman has some emotional distance, by now, to the company that he founded. He actually left Niman Ranch eight years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The important thing is that Perdue is very capable of adhering to the same kind of standards for treating animals better, and treating farmers more respectably,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Perdue may be forced to follow that way of operating, Niman says. The poultry giant just spent a lot of money for the Niman Ranch name and reputation. It wouldn't want to ruin that asset, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Niman still worries that the new owners will just try to maintain that reputation through marketing, with slogans that don't mean much. \"These bigger outfits have a lot of marketing power, and they're able to spin things and create confusion in the marketplace, which is a little bit frightening for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He admits that he doesn't feel the same about Applegate products, now that Hormel owns it. He doesn't buy Stonyfield yogurt anymore. He says he just doesn't trust the new owners quite as much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To keep that trust, big food companies may have to do more than buy a brand. They may need to show skeptical consumers that they're sticking with the principles of that company's founders. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Many alternative food brands have been swallowed by big food companies. Recently, Perdue bought Niman Ranch, which sells \"natural\" meat. But after a sale, will shoppers feel the product is the same?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1444761196,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":936},"headData":{"title":"If Big Food Buys Your Favorite 'Natural' Food Brand, Will You Trust It? | KQED","description":"Many alternative food brands have been swallowed by big food companies. Recently, Perdue bought Niman Ranch, which sells "natural" meat. But after a sale, will shoppers feel the product is the same?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"If Big Food Buys Your Favorite 'Natural' Food Brand, Will You Trust It?","datePublished":"2015-10-13T18:33:16.000Z","dateModified":"2015-10-13T18:33:16.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"102129 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102129","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/13/if-big-food-buys-your-favorite-natural-food-brand-will-you-trust-it/","disqusTitle":"If Big Food Buys Your Favorite 'Natural' Food Brand, Will You Trust It?","nprByline":"Dan Charles, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"445005485","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=445005485&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/12/445005485/if-big-food-buys-your-favorite-natural-food-brand-will-you-trust-it?ft=nprml&f=445005485","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 13 Oct 2015 13:02:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 12 Oct 2015 16:04:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 13 Oct 2015 13:02:09 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151012_atc_if_big_food_buys_your_favorite_natural_food_brand_will_you_trust_it.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=297&p=2&story=445005485&t=progseg&e=448059114&seg=5&ft=nprml&f=445005485","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1448059256-525516.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=297&p=2&story=445005485&t=progseg&e=448059114&seg=5&ft=nprml&f=445005485","path":"/bayareabites/102129/if-big-food-buys-your-favorite-natural-food-brand-will-you-trust-it","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151012_atc_if_big_food_buys_your_favorite_natural_food_brand_will_you_trust_it.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=297&p=2&story=445005485&t=progseg&e=448059114&seg=5&ft=nprml&f=445005485","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2015/10/20151012_atc_if_big_food_buys_your_favorite_natural_food_brand_will_you_trust_it.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big food companies are buying up small ones. \u003ca href=\"http://www.coca-colacompany.com/brands/honest-tea\">Honest Tea\u003c/a> is now part of Coca-Cola. The French company Danone controls \u003ca href=\"http://www.stonyfield.com/\">Stonyfield\u003c/a> yogurt. Hormel owns \u003ca href=\"http://www.applegate.com/\">Applegate\u003c/a> natural and organic meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cornucopia Institute has put together a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cornucopia.org/who-owns-organic/\">poster\u003c/a> that shows the full extent of the merger wave, at least for the organic industry. In the latest deal, announced a few weeks ago, Perdue Farms, a big poultry producer based in Maryland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-09-08/perdue-farms-to-buy-natural-food-holdings-from-lnk-partners\">bought\u003c/a> Niman Ranch, which started as an idealistic group of farmers protesting against companies like Perdue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For shoppers who like their food natural, local and organic, though, these deals can be unsettling. Will they still trust a food brand if someone else now owns it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it happens, some of the founders of those companies wonder the same thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take these three: Bill Niman, Gene Kahn and Grant Lundberg. Niman started Niman Ranch, Kahn founded \u003ca href=\"http://www.cascadianfarm.com/\">Cascadian Farm\u003c/a>, a pioneer of organic food, and Grant Lundberg is CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lundberg.com/\">Lundberg Family Farms\u003c/a>, which sells organic rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each of these companies started with its own vision of a better way to grow food. \"For us, the innovation was raising animals without the use of pharmaceuticals and chemicals,\" Niman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At roughly the same time, in the early 1970s, Gene Kahn started a back-to-the-land experiment that turned into a business. \"I became enamored by the whole notion of agriculture, and farming, and improving the environmental performance of agriculture,\" he says. Grant Lundberg's grandparents, for their part, were influenced by the trauma of the Dust Bowl. \"Remembering some of those experiences, they started to farm a little different from their neighbors,\" Lundberg says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_102134\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch.jpg\" alt=\"A grilled Niman Ranch pork chop. Perdue Farms, a big poultry producer based in Maryland, bought Niman Ranch in September. \" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-102134\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch.jpg 300w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/nimanranch-75x75.jpg 75w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A grilled Niman Ranch pork chop. Perdue Farms, a big poultry producer based in Maryland, bought Niman Ranch in September. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/eehgow/7146901015/\" target=\"_blank\">Ego Faylona/Flickr \u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to a vision, though, these companies had ambition. They wanted to expand, and they did, riding a wave of demand for humanely raised meat, organic fruit and organic rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's when big, conventional food companies started calling with marriage proposals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have offers a lot,\" Lundberg says. \"They want to explore, they want to talk about the idea of purchasing, or making an investment in the company.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So these founders (or, in the case of the Lundberg family, the grandchildren of the founders) all faced a choice. Should they sell? Would it be selling out?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gene Kahn, from Cascadian Farm, can't stand that phrase \"because it's so akin to selling out your soul to the devil.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says it's not that simple. Part of the pitch that the big companies typically make involves a promise to expand the company's vision, converting more land to organic farming, or raising more animals without hormones and drugs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Who do you want to work with, if you're really committed to improving agriculture?\" Kahn asks. \"Who is it that you want to talk [to]? Do you want to just talk to yourself? Or do you want to talk to the people who control all the acres?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of these food idealists has anything against the sheer size of big food companies, by the way. They agree: Big can be good. Efficiency makes food affordable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're a cynic if you say only small companies can ... have values, aren't you?\" Lundberg says. \"Somehow you have to believe that size doesn't matter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each founder, however, has pursued a different path.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Lundberg family has spurned all offers. Grant Lundberg says that his company doesn't really need investors. And if you sell, he says, there's no way to make sure that the name Lundberg Family Farms \"would continue to represent that commitment to the environment, producing high-quality food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gene Kahn, though, sold Cascadian Farm to one of the biggest food companies in America: General Mills. That was 15 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says it's worked out really well. \"They've not only preserved the ethics and the whole vision of the company, they've improved it,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bill Niman, meanwhile, has complicated feelings about the recent sale of Niman Ranch to Perdue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Right now, I feel pretty good about it,\" he says. Niman has some emotional distance, by now, to the company that he founded. He actually left Niman Ranch eight years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The important thing is that Perdue is very capable of adhering to the same kind of standards for treating animals better, and treating farmers more respectably,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Perdue may be forced to follow that way of operating, Niman says. The poultry giant just spent a lot of money for the Niman Ranch name and reputation. It wouldn't want to ruin that asset, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Niman still worries that the new owners will just try to maintain that reputation through marketing, with slogans that don't mean much. \"These bigger outfits have a lot of marketing power, and they're able to spin things and create confusion in the marketplace, which is a little bit frightening for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He admits that he doesn't feel the same about Applegate products, now that Hormel owns it. He doesn't buy Stonyfield yogurt anymore. He says he just doesn't trust the new owners quite as much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To keep that trust, big food companies may have to do more than buy a brand. They may need to show skeptical consumers that they're sticking with the principles of that company's founders. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102129/if-big-food-buys-your-favorite-natural-food-brand-will-you-trust-it","authors":["byline_bayareabites_102129"],"categories":["bayareabites_12555","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_14964","bayareabites_14967","bayareabites_14965","bayareabites_14968","bayareabites_13489","bayareabites_947","bayareabites_65","bayareabites_13092","bayareabites_14966"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102130","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_22287":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_22287","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"22287","score":null,"sort":[1296716421000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"ecofarm-conference-day-2-biodiversity-and-livestock","title":"EcoFarm Conference, Day 2: Biodiversity and Livestock","publishDate":1296716421,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Where's the beef? These days, as numerous workshops at the recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-farm.org/programs/efc/\">EcoFarm Conference\u003c/a> revealed, it's on the farm—right alongside the sheep, the chickens, the ducks, and the goats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From a farming perspective, biodiversity used to mean replacing typical fenceline-to-fenceline monocropping (which you can still still see down in the Central Valley: huge tracts of dirt planted with nothing but straight lines of strawberries or lettuce) with a more photogenic mix of pollinator-feeding flowers, orchards, hedgerows, and assorted vegetables in colorful profusion, all working in sync to make the farm a happier habitat for beneficial bugs, predators, and people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, however, more and more small farms (and vineyards) are getting livestock into the mix. Whether they're providing milk, eggs, meat, or labor, animals and poultry are taking their place again alongside the tractor and the compost pile as integral parts of the contemporary, sustainable organic farm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 2011 conference had a much more concentrated interest in horns and hoofs than in years past. At least half a dozen workshops focused on animal issues, ranging from \"Ecosystem Services in Livestock Production\" and \"Cattle and Carbon: Rangeland Conservation & Climate Protection\" to \"Healthy Herds, Healthy Markets: Raising Heritage Breed Livestock and Poultry\" and \"Building a Local Meat Supply Chain.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Putting the proof onto the plate was \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/01/marin-sun-farms-tour/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>, our own local grass-fed meat company, whose in-kind sponsorship of the conference put excellent local chicken, bacon, and lamb onto the menu of Asilomar's dining room throughout the conference (which made, for the omnivores among us, a welcome alternative to the usual beans, kale, and quinoa). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why have animals on a farm? Well, as one of the owners of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a> pointed out, a productive, diversely-planted organic farm produces a lot of surplus food. Restaurants, retailers, CSA and farmers' market customers all want the good stuff. They'll pay for it, but it has to look and taste the best. And if you're not bathing your produce in pesticides to keep it the boring, munching, scarring bugs at bay, well, you're going to end up culling a whole lot of not-so-pretty, overripe or undersized stuff along the way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of it feeds your family and your workers. Some of it can feed your compost. But if you want to turn oversize zucchini and beat-up tomatoes into usable, high-quality protein (not to mention plenty of fertilizer), well, nothing beats feeding it to pigs, goats, or chickens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/goatschix.jpg\" alt=\"goats and chickens\" title=\"goats and chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22531\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Backyard goats and chickens enjoying some sweet and crunchy discards from Star Route Farm\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's all part of the closed-loop system advocated by \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolf_Steiner\">Rudolf Steiner\u003c/a>, the Austrian polymath who mixed biology and soil science with folk wisdom and time-tested peasant farming practices, codifying it into what we now call biodynamics. Stripped of its more arcane spiritual elements, it's more or less the same down-to-earth, interconnected system advocated by Joel Salatin, the nattily dressed farmer/author of Virginia's Polyface Farm, who gave an impassioned speech last month in Point Reyes Station. Drawing from his latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0963810960/kqedorg-20\">The Sheer Ecstasy of Being a Lunatic Farmer\u003c/a>, Salatin turned the hay-lined Toby's Feed Barn into a tent revival for smart pasturing practices and mixed-use farms. Real pork, he insisted, wasn't a \"white meat;\" instead, if the pig's been raised right, rooting around, living out its full pig-attude, its meat should be iron-rich and consequently rosy pink. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/Joel-Salatin.jpg\" alt=\"Joel Salatin\" title=\"Joel Salatin\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22529\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joel Salatin. Photo by Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even wineries are getting in on the act: at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/12/harvest-time-robert-sinskey-vineyards/\">Robert Sinskey\u003c/a>, in Napa, part of the vineyards' biodynamic practice involves grazing down the weeds with sweet-faced Romney sheep, whose wool is sold alongside the wine in the tasting room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, as much as we might hope to be going back to a more natural practice with grass-fed meat and pastured eggs, few consumers are ready to think of steak and omelets as exclusively seasonal products, dictated by water, daylight, and temperatures just as much as asparagus or raspberries. If you have backyard chickens, you know that laying slows down dramatically as the days get shorter. Grass-fed cows have to be managed according to the ecosystems of their particular pastures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rearing animals on grass takes time, and as talk with numerous small farmers and ranchers at the conference proved, no one small farm or ranch can provide a year-round supply of freshly slaughtered meat. The answer? Co-ops and partnerships. As the workshop \"Are CSAs Sustainable?\" proved, a single farm limited by acreage, climate, and resources can't always produce enough variety to keep customers coming back for a box year-round. Your cool, moist, ocean-fogged farm might produce spectacular greens and kales—but what happens in July, when \"greens fatigue\" sets in and your members are longing for peaches and tomatoes? You can preach the virtues of chard; scrape up another loan, lease another parcel of land and increase your payroll; or partner with an inland neighbor already dripping in stone fruit and create a box that shares the wealth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niman Ranch does this on a large scale; Marin Sun Farms, Straus Family Creamery, and North Coast Meats on a smaller one. Partnering with other ranches helps produce a steady supply, while selling meat through a CSA, like the one described by Tyler Dawley of \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbarosaranchers.com\">Barbarosa Ranchers\u003c/a> in Red Bluff, insures not only a pre-sold market for the animals, but a chance to familiarize customers with cuts beyond the usual chops and tenderloins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooperatives can also help with the biggest snag in the local-meat supply chain: getting access to a small-scale slaughterhouse, then finding a way through governmental wrapping and packing regulations scaled for the likes of Tyson Foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As State Director Dr. Glenda Humiston of \u003ca href=\"http://www.rurdev.usda.gov/CA-StateDirector.html\">USDA Rural Development\u003c/a> pointed out, one of the top requests her office gets from rural communities (right after broadband) is access to small-scale slaughterhouses, particularly mobile ones that can move from community to community. Throughout the workshops, farmers with pigs, goats, sheep, and cattle on their land got up to beg for solutions, giving details of sudden shut-downs at nearby slaughterhouses (some affiliated with local ag-training universities) or wrapping/packing facilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one, even the most carnivorous among us, likes to think too hard about how their main course went from animal to ingredient. But with meat moving out of the supermarket and into the farmers' market, thoughtful consumers have more and more chances to find out how their dinner lived, and to put their food dollars towards supporting land-healthy, humane practices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For more background on the challenges of creating a local meat supply chain, read the report \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwaterwatch.org/tools-and-resources/wheres-the-local-beef/\">Where's the Local Beef?\u003c/a> by Food and Water Watch. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"More and more, goats, chickens, sheep, and cows are becoming integral parts of the modern organic farm. At the most recent EcoFarm Conference, farmers and ranchers dig into the challenges of running farms with barns. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1296840715,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1144},"headData":{"title":"EcoFarm Conference, Day 2: Biodiversity and Livestock | KQED","description":"More and more, goats, chickens, sheep, and cows are becoming integral parts of the modern organic farm. At the most recent EcoFarm Conference, farmers and ranchers dig into the challenges of running farms with barns. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"EcoFarm Conference, Day 2: Biodiversity and Livestock","datePublished":"2011-02-03T07:00:21.000Z","dateModified":"2011-02-04T17:31:55.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"22287 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=22287","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/02/ecofarm-conference-day-2-biodiversity-and-livestock/","disqusTitle":"EcoFarm Conference, Day 2: Biodiversity and Livestock","path":"/bayareabites/22287/ecofarm-conference-day-2-biodiversity-and-livestock","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Where's the beef? These days, as numerous workshops at the recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-farm.org/programs/efc/\">EcoFarm Conference\u003c/a> revealed, it's on the farm—right alongside the sheep, the chickens, the ducks, and the goats. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From a farming perspective, biodiversity used to mean replacing typical fenceline-to-fenceline monocropping (which you can still still see down in the Central Valley: huge tracts of dirt planted with nothing but straight lines of strawberries or lettuce) with a more photogenic mix of pollinator-feeding flowers, orchards, hedgerows, and assorted vegetables in colorful profusion, all working in sync to make the farm a happier habitat for beneficial bugs, predators, and people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, however, more and more small farms (and vineyards) are getting livestock into the mix. Whether they're providing milk, eggs, meat, or labor, animals and poultry are taking their place again alongside the tractor and the compost pile as integral parts of the contemporary, sustainable organic farm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 2011 conference had a much more concentrated interest in horns and hoofs than in years past. At least half a dozen workshops focused on animal issues, ranging from \"Ecosystem Services in Livestock Production\" and \"Cattle and Carbon: Rangeland Conservation & Climate Protection\" to \"Healthy Herds, Healthy Markets: Raising Heritage Breed Livestock and Poultry\" and \"Building a Local Meat Supply Chain.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Putting the proof onto the plate was \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/01/marin-sun-farms-tour/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>, our own local grass-fed meat company, whose in-kind sponsorship of the conference put excellent local chicken, bacon, and lamb onto the menu of Asilomar's dining room throughout the conference (which made, for the omnivores among us, a welcome alternative to the usual beans, kale, and quinoa). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why have animals on a farm? Well, as one of the owners of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a> pointed out, a productive, diversely-planted organic farm produces a lot of surplus food. Restaurants, retailers, CSA and farmers' market customers all want the good stuff. They'll pay for it, but it has to look and taste the best. And if you're not bathing your produce in pesticides to keep it the boring, munching, scarring bugs at bay, well, you're going to end up culling a whole lot of not-so-pretty, overripe or undersized stuff along the way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of it feeds your family and your workers. Some of it can feed your compost. But if you want to turn oversize zucchini and beat-up tomatoes into usable, high-quality protein (not to mention plenty of fertilizer), well, nothing beats feeding it to pigs, goats, or chickens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/goatschix.jpg\" alt=\"goats and chickens\" title=\"goats and chickens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22531\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Backyard goats and chickens enjoying some sweet and crunchy discards from Star Route Farm\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's all part of the closed-loop system advocated by \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolf_Steiner\">Rudolf Steiner\u003c/a>, the Austrian polymath who mixed biology and soil science with folk wisdom and time-tested peasant farming practices, codifying it into what we now call biodynamics. Stripped of its more arcane spiritual elements, it's more or less the same down-to-earth, interconnected system advocated by Joel Salatin, the nattily dressed farmer/author of Virginia's Polyface Farm, who gave an impassioned speech last month in Point Reyes Station. Drawing from his latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0963810960/kqedorg-20\">The Sheer Ecstasy of Being a Lunatic Farmer\u003c/a>, Salatin turned the hay-lined Toby's Feed Barn into a tent revival for smart pasturing practices and mixed-use farms. Real pork, he insisted, wasn't a \"white meat;\" instead, if the pig's been raised right, rooting around, living out its full pig-attude, its meat should be iron-rich and consequently rosy pink. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/Joel-Salatin.jpg\" alt=\"Joel Salatin\" title=\"Joel Salatin\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22529\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joel Salatin. Photo by Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even wineries are getting in on the act: at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/12/harvest-time-robert-sinskey-vineyards/\">Robert Sinskey\u003c/a>, in Napa, part of the vineyards' biodynamic practice involves grazing down the weeds with sweet-faced Romney sheep, whose wool is sold alongside the wine in the tasting room. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, as much as we might hope to be going back to a more natural practice with grass-fed meat and pastured eggs, few consumers are ready to think of steak and omelets as exclusively seasonal products, dictated by water, daylight, and temperatures just as much as asparagus or raspberries. If you have backyard chickens, you know that laying slows down dramatically as the days get shorter. Grass-fed cows have to be managed according to the ecosystems of their particular pastures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rearing animals on grass takes time, and as talk with numerous small farmers and ranchers at the conference proved, no one small farm or ranch can provide a year-round supply of freshly slaughtered meat. The answer? Co-ops and partnerships. As the workshop \"Are CSAs Sustainable?\" proved, a single farm limited by acreage, climate, and resources can't always produce enough variety to keep customers coming back for a box year-round. Your cool, moist, ocean-fogged farm might produce spectacular greens and kales—but what happens in July, when \"greens fatigue\" sets in and your members are longing for peaches and tomatoes? You can preach the virtues of chard; scrape up another loan, lease another parcel of land and increase your payroll; or partner with an inland neighbor already dripping in stone fruit and create a box that shares the wealth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niman Ranch does this on a large scale; Marin Sun Farms, Straus Family Creamery, and North Coast Meats on a smaller one. Partnering with other ranches helps produce a steady supply, while selling meat through a CSA, like the one described by Tyler Dawley of \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbarosaranchers.com\">Barbarosa Ranchers\u003c/a> in Red Bluff, insures not only a pre-sold market for the animals, but a chance to familiarize customers with cuts beyond the usual chops and tenderloins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooperatives can also help with the biggest snag in the local-meat supply chain: getting access to a small-scale slaughterhouse, then finding a way through governmental wrapping and packing regulations scaled for the likes of Tyson Foods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As State Director Dr. Glenda Humiston of \u003ca href=\"http://www.rurdev.usda.gov/CA-StateDirector.html\">USDA Rural Development\u003c/a> pointed out, one of the top requests her office gets from rural communities (right after broadband) is access to small-scale slaughterhouses, particularly mobile ones that can move from community to community. Throughout the workshops, farmers with pigs, goats, sheep, and cattle on their land got up to beg for solutions, giving details of sudden shut-downs at nearby slaughterhouses (some affiliated with local ag-training universities) or wrapping/packing facilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one, even the most carnivorous among us, likes to think too hard about how their main course went from animal to ingredient. But with meat moving out of the supermarket and into the farmers' market, thoughtful consumers have more and more chances to find out how their dinner lived, and to put their food dollars towards supporting land-healthy, humane practices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For more background on the challenges of creating a local meat supply chain, read the report \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwaterwatch.org/tools-and-resources/wheres-the-local-beef/\">Where's the Local Beef?\u003c/a> by Food and Water Watch. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/22287/ecofarm-conference-day-2-biodiversity-and-livestock","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_8912","bayareabites_8915","bayareabites_621","bayareabites_8877","bayareabites_8878","bayareabites_1852","bayareabites_8901","bayareabites_8914","bayareabites_4159","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_947","bayareabites_8911","bayareabites_8913"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_12646":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_12646","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"12646","score":null,"sort":[1271775654000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"book-review-gristle","title":"Book Review: Gristle (Thinking Twice About the Meat We Eat)","publishDate":1271775654,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/159558191X/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/mobybook.jpg\" alt=\"Gristle Edited by Moby and Miyun Park\" title=\"Gristle Edited by Moby and Miyun Park\" width=\"190\" height=\"272\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-12658\">\u003c/a>Most reviews of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thenewpress.com/index.php?option=com_title&task=view_title&metaproductid=1679\">Gristle\u003c/a> will start with an assessment of \u003ca href=\"http://www.moby.com/\">Moby\u003c/a>, the fantastically irritating middle-aged multi-platinum electronic musician-turned-food policy expert who edited the book. Based on what I know of Moby, I do not like him. It wouldn't be fair to hate him. Hating is a tough thing to do, even when you really know someone well enough to feel okay about doing it. While, for a long time, Moby barely registered a chirp on my pop culture radar, he first became the subject of my considerable distaste in 1999, when his mega-smash album Play came out, saturating radio station playlists, television commercials, and department store dressing rooms with \"soulful\" \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Lomax\">Alan Lomax\u003c/a>-recorded blues samples wrapped in pulsing techno. The songs were inescapable and horrible. Much to my dismay, they chased me everywhere I went. More recently, in late March, weeks before this book arrived in my mailbox, I thought of Moby again when the New York Times published a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/28/nyregion/28routine.html\">Sunday Routine feature\u003c/a> about him. Every section reads as if the author (Moby, in his first-person voice, presumably as recorded and edited by writer Lizette Alvarez) cannot help but be astounded by his own charm and cleverness. He names his favorite kind of organic tea, brags about his wretched-sounding pancakes, revels in online Scrabble victories, rattles off a vile but fiercely healthy smoothie recipe, and (on account of Calvinist ancestors) admits to a few \"guilty\" pleasures -- including that leviathan of vice, \"mass market fiction.\" A friend linked to the article on Facebook, adding a highly derisive caption. A day later, a mutual friend commented on the post, sharing a shameful nugget of hearsay from yet another friend who apparently knows Moby quite well -- well enough to text with him, at least. According to this undoubtedly suspect source, when Moby texts, he dutifully concludes each message with a jaunty sign-off: \"This is Moby, on the text.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gristle's editor might come across as a smug self-righteous cartoon, an easy target given the trappings he's prone to wearing, the message he, co-editor \u003ca href=\"http://www.globalanimalpartnership.org/miyun.park.html\">Miyun Park\u003c/a>, and the host of noble experts they've gathered are pushing is real and worthy of very serious discussion. Simply put, this book -- a featherweight at 144 pages -- has forced me to re-contemplate the advantages of vegetarianism in the face of a corporation-clogged taxpayer-funded mainstream meat industry dedicated to processing artificially cheap, unhealthy, and potentially dangerous animal protein products for mass consumption, with a startling disregard for its underpaid workers and the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Gristle, each contributor handles a brief chapter with a one word title focusing on a single negative aspect of factory farming's effect on people, animals, and the world -- an issue to house arguments supported, in turn, by facts. It's a tidy assemblage of frill-free prose and grim, gray-scale visual aids. There's a uniformity to the writing and presentation uncommon to a collection of such far-flung perspectives, but the diversity nips any argument that Moby's cast of contributors are all cut from the same animal rights activist cloth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.brendanbrazier.com/\">Brendan Brazier\u003c/a>, Canadian Ironman triathlon competitor, weighing in on health. asserting that, \"leaving farm animals out of your diet is a simple decision with life-long benefits.\" Whole Foods honcho and dedicated libertarian \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Mackey_(businessman)\">John Mackey\u003c/a> talks taxes, revealing that Americans currently spend 8% of their incomes on food, whereas, one hundred years ago, they spent over five times as much -- a change brought about, in part, by government subsidies that distort markets \"tremendously.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=364x769257\">Christine Chavez and Julie Chavez Rodriguez\u003c/a>, human rights activists and granddaughters of Cesar Chavez, write about the abysmal working conditions in factory farms. Paul and Phyllis Willis, the manager of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx\">Niman Ranch Pork Company\u003c/a> and a community activist respectively, discuss how factory farms tear up communities: In just two decades, Iowa has seen an 84% decrease in the number of farms raising pigs, yet almost five times as many pigs. That means bigger farms, and less farmers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.feedprojects.org/\">Lauren Bush\u003c/a>, C.E.O. and co-founder of FEED as well as the niece of George W., focuses on the environment, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.smallplanet.org/\">Diet for a Small Planet author Frances Moore Lappe and her daughter Anne\u003c/a> address global warming, offering up a specific morsel I actually remember stewing over in my youth: 16 pounds of grain and soy are required to raise one pound of steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have written before about my own experiment with vegetarianism. I never ate much meat as a kid, largely because my parents didn't. I stopped altogether when I was 13, in 1993. I tasted fish again in 2001, and poultry a few years later. Before long, I was a full-bore bone-gnawing omnivore, even more adventurous and meat-centric once I began writing frequently about food for amusement and income. Reading Gristle sent me back to a time I often struggle to remember -- the moment I decided to stop eating meat -- and about halfway through the book, I wondered why I had. There was a time not long ago when I saw the meatless phase of my young life largely as a drawn-out gesture of gentle rebellion against my cultural surroundings, a politicized substitute for dying my hair green. I was only vocal and remotely militant about vegetarianism for a few years, and yet I remained a vegetarian for many more. Did I stick to my diet out of habit? Was I trapped by a desire to maintain consistency? Making sense of the flights of logic generated by my 16-year-old mind always requires major effort, but in this matter, I was probably never so stupid. Meat -- as most of America knows it, and has known it for decades -- might not be murder, but it is a huge unholy mess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I always liked animals, particularly cute ones like pigs and sheep, but I didn't stop eating them because they blinked, breathed, and made noises. The philosophical heft of my decision didn't approach Moby's. Once, as he describes in the aforementioned New York Times piece, \"the most pretentious person [he] has ever met, Moby outlines his reasoning in the introduction. Essentially, he followed the golden rule as extended to animals, with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pascal's_Wager\">Blaise Pascal's Gambit \u003c/a> wading in: \"I took the logic of [\"betting\" on God's existence as opposed to non-existence] and applied it. . .I decided that it's probably a better \"bet\" to extend compassion as far and wide as possible as opposed to restricting the lengths to which I would extend compassion.\" Me, I just had a vague aesthetic aversion. Meat seemed heavy, dirty, and unclean. There were just icky inklings, though I soon found facts to back them up. In Gristle, those facts come off as particularly devastating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/159558191X/kqedorg-20\">Gristle\u003c/a> rather delicately avoids directly damning all carnivorous acts. For all its polemics and pamphlet-esque tone, this book is, at its core, optimistic, hinging on the idea that, if people really know the facts about where the meat they eat comes from, they'll change their ways. They'll eat less meat, and make sure that the meat they do eat comes from truly reputable, responsible farms -- even if it's expensive or inconvenient to do so. Maybe they'll even eschew it entirely. In the introduction, Moby writes, \"if enough people find out about the hidden ramifications of industrialized farmed animal production, we'll eventually see a shift away from supporting these destructive industries, which would lead to a healthier, cleaner, and more humane world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not positive that would help. In his chapter, John Mackey suggests that, \"the only reason our abuse of animals is still tolerated is because most people aren't aware of it.\" While the average American may not know the details of how domesticated animals are treated in factory farms, the net of ills cast by the meat industry's participants is too huge, perfect, and ridiculous not to warrant suspicion -- especially considering how much attention a slew of best-sellers have devoted to it. Even with Moby's name attached, a wee volume from a smallish press is going to be read by the same people who already read Diet for a Small Planet, Fast Food Nation, and The Omnivore's Dilemma -- not exactly obscure texts, but not quite Oprah, MTV, and Good Morning America either. In her epilogue, Miyun Park writes: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[S]omehow industrial animal agribusiness has largely managed to get away with oppressing workers, making us and our children unhealthy, slowly but surely destroying rural communities, contributing to global warming and global hunger, cultivating the emergence of devastating zoonotic diseases, and polluting the water we drink, the air we breathe, and the land on which we all live -- all while getting subsidized by taxpayers.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> It's astonishing, and while saying \"enough\" to the injustice is fine, the problem isn't that the information hasn't at least begun to trickle down. The problem is that a lot of people really don't care that much. It's one thing to read about abused, confined fowl, tortured, manure-smeared stacks of swine, polluted rivers, and drug-resistant bacteria, and be horrified, but it's another thing entirely to implement a dramatic lifestyle shift. It isn't, as Brazier puts it, a \"simple change.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking personally, fast food restaurants -- where Americans inhale most of their factory-farmed meat -- are easy to avoid. At the same time, my favorite local ethnic eateries likely source from the same coops and lots. Grease-laden sidewalk tacos, Filipino breakfast \u003ca href=\"http://www.inuyaki.com/archives/33\">silogs\u003c/a>, sausages at Lao dives, Shanghai soup dumplings, Cambodian curries, and Korean short ribs don't always come with a Niman Ranch stamp. Enjoying those flavors, supporting those small businesses, and by extension, the communities from which they spring means eating meat that does harm. It's a tough call sometimes. At many area restaurants catering to diners with Slow Food-friendly values, menus proudly name the farms and ranches charged with raising the meat they serve. High-end grocery stores do the same, and they're rewarded with customers from the same relatively moneyed, socially-conscious pool. To put it mildly, the circumstances encourage elitism, and discourage a wider diffusion of responsibly raised animal products. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I take my meat-eating opportunities one bite at a time. I'm not nostalgic for the vegetarian days, but I struggle with guilt for grazing broadly, especially when I'm pretty sure I'm eating an animal whose life was miserable and brief. Eating in a professional capacity scrambles good intentions. One week, I shop at the right stores and eat very little meat, and only that which I know to be of worthy provenance, and the next, there's a new torta to taste, and taste it I must. Since reading Gristle -- an amped-up Cliff's Notes for the pro-vegetarian literature I inhaled as a teenager -- the predicament has been a little tougher. Dancing above my head like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/mango-and-j-lo/2667/\">Mango\u003c/a>, Moby is there, surveying every bite, sipping a cup of organic white tea, wagging a skinny little finger, eyes closed, his huge pale noggin shaking back and forth. You can't have the torta. No, no, no, he says softly. Sadly, I can't just smack him away. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Simply put, this book -- a featherweight at 144 pages -- has forced me to re-contemplate the advantages of vegetarianism in the face of a corporation-clogged taxpayer-funded mainstream meat industry dedicated to processing artificially cheap, unhealthy, and potentially dangerous animal protein products for mass consumption, with a startling disregard for its underpaid workers and the environment.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1271781945,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1899},"headData":{"title":"Book Review: Gristle (Thinking Twice About the Meat We Eat) | KQED","description":"Simply put, this book -- a featherweight at 144 pages -- has forced me to re-contemplate the advantages of vegetarianism in the face of a corporation-clogged taxpayer-funded mainstream meat industry dedicated to processing artificially cheap, unhealthy, and potentially dangerous animal protein products for mass consumption, with a startling disregard for its underpaid workers and the environment.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Book Review: Gristle (Thinking Twice About the Meat We Eat)","datePublished":"2010-04-20T15:00:54.000Z","dateModified":"2010-04-20T16:45:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"12646 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=12646","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/20/book-review-gristle/","disqusTitle":"Book Review: Gristle (Thinking Twice About the Meat We Eat)","path":"/bayareabites/12646/book-review-gristle","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/159558191X/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/mobybook.jpg\" alt=\"Gristle Edited by Moby and Miyun Park\" title=\"Gristle Edited by Moby and Miyun Park\" width=\"190\" height=\"272\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-12658\">\u003c/a>Most reviews of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thenewpress.com/index.php?option=com_title&task=view_title&metaproductid=1679\">Gristle\u003c/a> will start with an assessment of \u003ca href=\"http://www.moby.com/\">Moby\u003c/a>, the fantastically irritating middle-aged multi-platinum electronic musician-turned-food policy expert who edited the book. Based on what I know of Moby, I do not like him. It wouldn't be fair to hate him. Hating is a tough thing to do, even when you really know someone well enough to feel okay about doing it. While, for a long time, Moby barely registered a chirp on my pop culture radar, he first became the subject of my considerable distaste in 1999, when his mega-smash album Play came out, saturating radio station playlists, television commercials, and department store dressing rooms with \"soulful\" \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Lomax\">Alan Lomax\u003c/a>-recorded blues samples wrapped in pulsing techno. The songs were inescapable and horrible. Much to my dismay, they chased me everywhere I went. More recently, in late March, weeks before this book arrived in my mailbox, I thought of Moby again when the New York Times published a \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/28/nyregion/28routine.html\">Sunday Routine feature\u003c/a> about him. Every section reads as if the author (Moby, in his first-person voice, presumably as recorded and edited by writer Lizette Alvarez) cannot help but be astounded by his own charm and cleverness. He names his favorite kind of organic tea, brags about his wretched-sounding pancakes, revels in online Scrabble victories, rattles off a vile but fiercely healthy smoothie recipe, and (on account of Calvinist ancestors) admits to a few \"guilty\" pleasures -- including that leviathan of vice, \"mass market fiction.\" A friend linked to the article on Facebook, adding a highly derisive caption. A day later, a mutual friend commented on the post, sharing a shameful nugget of hearsay from yet another friend who apparently knows Moby quite well -- well enough to text with him, at least. According to this undoubtedly suspect source, when Moby texts, he dutifully concludes each message with a jaunty sign-off: \"This is Moby, on the text.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gristle's editor might come across as a smug self-righteous cartoon, an easy target given the trappings he's prone to wearing, the message he, co-editor \u003ca href=\"http://www.globalanimalpartnership.org/miyun.park.html\">Miyun Park\u003c/a>, and the host of noble experts they've gathered are pushing is real and worthy of very serious discussion. Simply put, this book -- a featherweight at 144 pages -- has forced me to re-contemplate the advantages of vegetarianism in the face of a corporation-clogged taxpayer-funded mainstream meat industry dedicated to processing artificially cheap, unhealthy, and potentially dangerous animal protein products for mass consumption, with a startling disregard for its underpaid workers and the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Gristle, each contributor handles a brief chapter with a one word title focusing on a single negative aspect of factory farming's effect on people, animals, and the world -- an issue to house arguments supported, in turn, by facts. It's a tidy assemblage of frill-free prose and grim, gray-scale visual aids. There's a uniformity to the writing and presentation uncommon to a collection of such far-flung perspectives, but the diversity nips any argument that Moby's cast of contributors are all cut from the same animal rights activist cloth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.brendanbrazier.com/\">Brendan Brazier\u003c/a>, Canadian Ironman triathlon competitor, weighing in on health. asserting that, \"leaving farm animals out of your diet is a simple decision with life-long benefits.\" Whole Foods honcho and dedicated libertarian \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Mackey_(businessman)\">John Mackey\u003c/a> talks taxes, revealing that Americans currently spend 8% of their incomes on food, whereas, one hundred years ago, they spent over five times as much -- a change brought about, in part, by government subsidies that distort markets \"tremendously.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=364x769257\">Christine Chavez and Julie Chavez Rodriguez\u003c/a>, human rights activists and granddaughters of Cesar Chavez, write about the abysmal working conditions in factory farms. Paul and Phyllis Willis, the manager of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx\">Niman Ranch Pork Company\u003c/a> and a community activist respectively, discuss how factory farms tear up communities: In just two decades, Iowa has seen an 84% decrease in the number of farms raising pigs, yet almost five times as many pigs. That means bigger farms, and less farmers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.feedprojects.org/\">Lauren Bush\u003c/a>, C.E.O. and co-founder of FEED as well as the niece of George W., focuses on the environment, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.smallplanet.org/\">Diet for a Small Planet author Frances Moore Lappe and her daughter Anne\u003c/a> address global warming, offering up a specific morsel I actually remember stewing over in my youth: 16 pounds of grain and soy are required to raise one pound of steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have written before about my own experiment with vegetarianism. I never ate much meat as a kid, largely because my parents didn't. I stopped altogether when I was 13, in 1993. I tasted fish again in 2001, and poultry a few years later. Before long, I was a full-bore bone-gnawing omnivore, even more adventurous and meat-centric once I began writing frequently about food for amusement and income. Reading Gristle sent me back to a time I often struggle to remember -- the moment I decided to stop eating meat -- and about halfway through the book, I wondered why I had. There was a time not long ago when I saw the meatless phase of my young life largely as a drawn-out gesture of gentle rebellion against my cultural surroundings, a politicized substitute for dying my hair green. I was only vocal and remotely militant about vegetarianism for a few years, and yet I remained a vegetarian for many more. Did I stick to my diet out of habit? Was I trapped by a desire to maintain consistency? Making sense of the flights of logic generated by my 16-year-old mind always requires major effort, but in this matter, I was probably never so stupid. Meat -- as most of America knows it, and has known it for decades -- might not be murder, but it is a huge unholy mess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I always liked animals, particularly cute ones like pigs and sheep, but I didn't stop eating them because they blinked, breathed, and made noises. The philosophical heft of my decision didn't approach Moby's. Once, as he describes in the aforementioned New York Times piece, \"the most pretentious person [he] has ever met, Moby outlines his reasoning in the introduction. Essentially, he followed the golden rule as extended to animals, with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pascal's_Wager\">Blaise Pascal's Gambit \u003c/a> wading in: \"I took the logic of [\"betting\" on God's existence as opposed to non-existence] and applied it. . .I decided that it's probably a better \"bet\" to extend compassion as far and wide as possible as opposed to restricting the lengths to which I would extend compassion.\" Me, I just had a vague aesthetic aversion. Meat seemed heavy, dirty, and unclean. There were just icky inklings, though I soon found facts to back them up. In Gristle, those facts come off as particularly devastating. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/159558191X/kqedorg-20\">Gristle\u003c/a> rather delicately avoids directly damning all carnivorous acts. For all its polemics and pamphlet-esque tone, this book is, at its core, optimistic, hinging on the idea that, if people really know the facts about where the meat they eat comes from, they'll change their ways. They'll eat less meat, and make sure that the meat they do eat comes from truly reputable, responsible farms -- even if it's expensive or inconvenient to do so. Maybe they'll even eschew it entirely. In the introduction, Moby writes, \"if enough people find out about the hidden ramifications of industrialized farmed animal production, we'll eventually see a shift away from supporting these destructive industries, which would lead to a healthier, cleaner, and more humane world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not positive that would help. In his chapter, John Mackey suggests that, \"the only reason our abuse of animals is still tolerated is because most people aren't aware of it.\" While the average American may not know the details of how domesticated animals are treated in factory farms, the net of ills cast by the meat industry's participants is too huge, perfect, and ridiculous not to warrant suspicion -- especially considering how much attention a slew of best-sellers have devoted to it. Even with Moby's name attached, a wee volume from a smallish press is going to be read by the same people who already read Diet for a Small Planet, Fast Food Nation, and The Omnivore's Dilemma -- not exactly obscure texts, but not quite Oprah, MTV, and Good Morning America either. In her epilogue, Miyun Park writes: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[S]omehow industrial animal agribusiness has largely managed to get away with oppressing workers, making us and our children unhealthy, slowly but surely destroying rural communities, contributing to global warming and global hunger, cultivating the emergence of devastating zoonotic diseases, and polluting the water we drink, the air we breathe, and the land on which we all live -- all while getting subsidized by taxpayers.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> It's astonishing, and while saying \"enough\" to the injustice is fine, the problem isn't that the information hasn't at least begun to trickle down. The problem is that a lot of people really don't care that much. It's one thing to read about abused, confined fowl, tortured, manure-smeared stacks of swine, polluted rivers, and drug-resistant bacteria, and be horrified, but it's another thing entirely to implement a dramatic lifestyle shift. It isn't, as Brazier puts it, a \"simple change.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking personally, fast food restaurants -- where Americans inhale most of their factory-farmed meat -- are easy to avoid. At the same time, my favorite local ethnic eateries likely source from the same coops and lots. Grease-laden sidewalk tacos, Filipino breakfast \u003ca href=\"http://www.inuyaki.com/archives/33\">silogs\u003c/a>, sausages at Lao dives, Shanghai soup dumplings, Cambodian curries, and Korean short ribs don't always come with a Niman Ranch stamp. Enjoying those flavors, supporting those small businesses, and by extension, the communities from which they spring means eating meat that does harm. It's a tough call sometimes. At many area restaurants catering to diners with Slow Food-friendly values, menus proudly name the farms and ranches charged with raising the meat they serve. High-end grocery stores do the same, and they're rewarded with customers from the same relatively moneyed, socially-conscious pool. To put it mildly, the circumstances encourage elitism, and discourage a wider diffusion of responsibly raised animal products. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I take my meat-eating opportunities one bite at a time. I'm not nostalgic for the vegetarian days, but I struggle with guilt for grazing broadly, especially when I'm pretty sure I'm eating an animal whose life was miserable and brief. Eating in a professional capacity scrambles good intentions. One week, I shop at the right stores and eat very little meat, and only that which I know to be of worthy provenance, and the next, there's a new torta to taste, and taste it I must. Since reading Gristle -- an amped-up Cliff's Notes for the pro-vegetarian literature I inhaled as a teenager -- the predicament has been a little tougher. Dancing above my head like \u003ca href=\"http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/mango-and-j-lo/2667/\">Mango\u003c/a>, Moby is there, surveying every bite, sipping a cup of organic white tea, wagging a skinny little finger, eyes closed, his huge pale noggin shaking back and forth. You can't have the torta. No, no, no, he says softly. Sadly, I can't just smack him away. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/12646/book-review-gristle","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_3899","bayareabites_3897","bayareabites_3900","bayareabites_3898","bayareabites_3901","bayareabites_3896","bayareabites_947","bayareabites_2568","bayareabites_3063"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_6883":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_6883","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"6883","score":null,"sort":[1253553417000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto","title":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto","publishDate":1253553417,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/swine500.jpg\" alt=\"Swine diagram\" title=\"Swine diagram\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6890\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This swine diagram in the Oliveto back office pretty much sums it up.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to his desk in the Oliveto back office, Chef Paul Canales has taped a diagram that captures the restaurant's reverence for pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The diagram shows a hog divided into sections, such as the shoulder and the leg. All of these sections are labeled \"Good,\" except for the belly. It is labeled \"Real Good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts -- shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an uninitiated guest to the kitchen, it can be startling to see a pig's head simmering in a stock pot or a chef hefting a hand saw on one half of a 200-pound carcass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-and-kelsey500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6887\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you want restaurants to be respectful of the meat they serve, extracting every ounce of flavor and using all parts of the animal, then these scenes shouldn't shock you. Many chefs run a far tidier kitchen by relying on industrial meat processors to do their butchery, delivering meat cuts that are shrink-wrapped and ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto's experiments with whole-hog cookery started more than a decade ago, when the restaurant, under owner Bob Klein and former Executive Chef Paul Bertolli, developed a relationship with Paul Willis and Bill Niman, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx%20\">Niman Ranch\u003c/a> meat company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Willis, a hog farmer from Iowa, met Niman in the mid-1990s, as industrial hog farming was transforming the landscape of the Midwest and North Carolina. Farmers such as Willis were trying to stay in business by marketing the quality and benefits of the pork that was raised without hormones and antibiotics, with the pigs allowed to range freely. That led to a partnership with Niman and the birth of Niman Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-willis-hog-500.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" title=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6888\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Willis supervises a network of 500 farmers who produce pork for more than 1,200 restaurants, ranging from chains such as Chipotle Mexican Grill to high-end restaurants such as Oliveto. His success has inspired many other farmers, including some here in California, to grow their own pigs and market them directly to restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Tuesday at Oliveto, a truck pulls up in the garage of the building, delivering a split carcass pig, usually from Willis. For the last several months it has been my job, along with Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito, to heft and these split carcasses (100 pounds) into the basement meat locker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/meat-locker500.jpg\" alt=\"meat locker\" title=\"meat locker\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6919\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hanging meat from hooks can be dangerous, as former Oliveto Sous Chef Curtis Di Fede demonstrates.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This can be a dangerous job. Pigs are slippery and tricky to hoist. Usually Tigre would lift from the bottom, using a small meat hook to grab hold of the carcass. My job was to grab the hind leg, attach a meat hook to the trotter, and hang the hooked carcass on the meat locker rod while Tigre hefted it from the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time we attempted this together, I inadvertently left my pinkie finger in between the hook and rod. My finger was nearly crushed as the full weight of the carcass came down on the rod. Luckily, I pulled my pinkie out at the last split second.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the pigs are in the locker, the chefs assemble a game plan for breaking them down and preparing dishes. That plan changes weekly, depending on the whims of the chefs and what dishes they haven't recently prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Technically, you want to use the loins and legs first, since those are most subject to spoilage,\" says Canales, who replaced Bertolli as executive chef in 2004. \"The shoulders will last the longest.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do the shoulders last longer? As Canales notes, shoulders and other heavily used muscles tend to have high levels of myoglobin, a protein that causes the red color in meat. Birds such as ducks and pigeons have high levels of myoglobin, because they fly such long distances. As a result, ducks and pigeons resist spoilage in a refrigerator longer than chickens do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a hog is delivered, Tigre tends to get the assignment of breaking down the hog into its component pieces. He also can be regularly seen trimming up the loin for one of the restaurant's prized dishes, the spit-roasted porchetta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/tigre-with-sausage500.jpg\" alt=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" title=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Porchetta is pork rolled with spices and salt into a log and then set on a rotisserie. As it roasts over hot coals, the fat renders out of the meat and keeps it juicy and savory. Slices of this log are then served with an accompaniment, such as a diavolo sauce made with chili peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, Oliveto generally takes cuts from the leg and turns them into scallopine or salami. Scraps from the leg are ground in a meat grinder and used in a ragu, a pasta sauce. The shoulders, meanwhile, are generally reserved for sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can imagine, all this cutting and trimming results in numerous scraps that some butchers might be tempted to throw away. At Oliveto, all these scraps are further trimmed to separate meat from fat. The meat pieces are cooked down into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/2009/05/paul-canales-recipe-for-a-sugo.html/022075.html?mi_rss=The%20Chef%20Apprentice\">sugo\u003c/a>, a heavily reduced pork stock, similar to a demi-glace. The rest might be used for a ciccioli, an intensely rich concoction that is made by cooking down fatty pieces of pork, compressing them and drying them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of the pigs it breaks down, Oliveto also receives special orders of pork, particularly pork bellies for pancetta. These bellies arrive every other week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, which originated as the online marketing arm for the Slow Food movement. Now a private company, it sells meat from small farmers who are raising and preserving heritage breeds of pigs, turkeys and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to support them, because they are trying to do the right thing, by these animal and the small farmers,\" says Canales. \"These guys have no outlet. Either they find a niche market, or they get forced out by Tyson or the big outfits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/stuwithbelly300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" title=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" width=\"300\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6889\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The author trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While apprenticing at Oliveto, I had a privilege to trim and cure pancetta a few times. It is not terribly hard, as \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/06/home-cured-pancetta.html\">Michael Ruhlman demonstrates\u003c/a> in this post. The slabs of pork are seasoned with salt, curing salt and peppercorns, and then hung in cold storage for a week or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time it is dried, thin sliced and then served, it is belly, belly good. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Oliveto, the true test of its pork obsession comes in February, with the annual Whole Hog dinners. The menu offers nearly every part of the animal, from the brains down to the trotters. Last year's \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/wholehog08.pdf%20\">menu\u003c/a>(pdf) featured a wild boar scaloppine alla Milanese, a spaghetti with pork cracklings and a spit-roasted pork belly with Sicilian chestnut honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/melon-and-coppa500.jpg\" alt=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" title=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" width=\"500\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A basic summer dish at Oliveto - cured coppa and melon.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations for these dinners are an all-year affair, since some types of meats - such as prosciutto and coppa - take many months to cure and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed this year's Whole Hog Dinner, but plan to be there in February. After six months of trimming, slicing, browning, simmering and curing pork, I feel a closer connection to this noble animal, along with an awareness of how much more there is to learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Leavenworth has concluded his apprenticeship at Oliveto, and this is his final post for Bay Area Bites. On Monday, he starts a new job as The Sacramento Bee's editorial page editor. You can contact him at sleavenworth@sacbee.com.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts --shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1253634920,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":1339},"headData":{"title":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto | KQED","description":"Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts --shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto","datePublished":"2009-09-21T17:16:57.000Z","dateModified":"2009-09-22T15:55:20.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"6883 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=6883","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/21/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto/","disqusTitle":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto","path":"/bayareabites/6883/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/swine500.jpg\" alt=\"Swine diagram\" title=\"Swine diagram\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6890\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This swine diagram in the Oliveto back office pretty much sums it up.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to his desk in the Oliveto back office, Chef Paul Canales has taped a diagram that captures the restaurant's reverence for pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The diagram shows a hog divided into sections, such as the shoulder and the leg. All of these sections are labeled \"Good,\" except for the belly. It is labeled \"Real Good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts -- shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an uninitiated guest to the kitchen, it can be startling to see a pig's head simmering in a stock pot or a chef hefting a hand saw on one half of a 200-pound carcass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-and-kelsey500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6887\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you want restaurants to be respectful of the meat they serve, extracting every ounce of flavor and using all parts of the animal, then these scenes shouldn't shock you. Many chefs run a far tidier kitchen by relying on industrial meat processors to do their butchery, delivering meat cuts that are shrink-wrapped and ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto's experiments with whole-hog cookery started more than a decade ago, when the restaurant, under owner Bob Klein and former Executive Chef Paul Bertolli, developed a relationship with Paul Willis and Bill Niman, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx%20\">Niman Ranch\u003c/a> meat company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Willis, a hog farmer from Iowa, met Niman in the mid-1990s, as industrial hog farming was transforming the landscape of the Midwest and North Carolina. Farmers such as Willis were trying to stay in business by marketing the quality and benefits of the pork that was raised without hormones and antibiotics, with the pigs allowed to range freely. That led to a partnership with Niman and the birth of Niman Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-willis-hog-500.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" title=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6888\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Willis supervises a network of 500 farmers who produce pork for more than 1,200 restaurants, ranging from chains such as Chipotle Mexican Grill to high-end restaurants such as Oliveto. His success has inspired many other farmers, including some here in California, to grow their own pigs and market them directly to restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Tuesday at Oliveto, a truck pulls up in the garage of the building, delivering a split carcass pig, usually from Willis. For the last several months it has been my job, along with Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito, to heft and these split carcasses (100 pounds) into the basement meat locker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/meat-locker500.jpg\" alt=\"meat locker\" title=\"meat locker\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6919\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hanging meat from hooks can be dangerous, as former Oliveto Sous Chef Curtis Di Fede demonstrates.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This can be a dangerous job. Pigs are slippery and tricky to hoist. Usually Tigre would lift from the bottom, using a small meat hook to grab hold of the carcass. My job was to grab the hind leg, attach a meat hook to the trotter, and hang the hooked carcass on the meat locker rod while Tigre hefted it from the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time we attempted this together, I inadvertently left my pinkie finger in between the hook and rod. My finger was nearly crushed as the full weight of the carcass came down on the rod. Luckily, I pulled my pinkie out at the last split second.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the pigs are in the locker, the chefs assemble a game plan for breaking them down and preparing dishes. That plan changes weekly, depending on the whims of the chefs and what dishes they haven't recently prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Technically, you want to use the loins and legs first, since those are most subject to spoilage,\" says Canales, who replaced Bertolli as executive chef in 2004. \"The shoulders will last the longest.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do the shoulders last longer? As Canales notes, shoulders and other heavily used muscles tend to have high levels of myoglobin, a protein that causes the red color in meat. Birds such as ducks and pigeons have high levels of myoglobin, because they fly such long distances. As a result, ducks and pigeons resist spoilage in a refrigerator longer than chickens do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a hog is delivered, Tigre tends to get the assignment of breaking down the hog into its component pieces. He also can be regularly seen trimming up the loin for one of the restaurant's prized dishes, the spit-roasted porchetta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/tigre-with-sausage500.jpg\" alt=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" title=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Porchetta is pork rolled with spices and salt into a log and then set on a rotisserie. As it roasts over hot coals, the fat renders out of the meat and keeps it juicy and savory. Slices of this log are then served with an accompaniment, such as a diavolo sauce made with chili peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, Oliveto generally takes cuts from the leg and turns them into scallopine or salami. Scraps from the leg are ground in a meat grinder and used in a ragu, a pasta sauce. The shoulders, meanwhile, are generally reserved for sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can imagine, all this cutting and trimming results in numerous scraps that some butchers might be tempted to throw away. At Oliveto, all these scraps are further trimmed to separate meat from fat. The meat pieces are cooked down into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/2009/05/paul-canales-recipe-for-a-sugo.html/022075.html?mi_rss=The%20Chef%20Apprentice\">sugo\u003c/a>, a heavily reduced pork stock, similar to a demi-glace. The rest might be used for a ciccioli, an intensely rich concoction that is made by cooking down fatty pieces of pork, compressing them and drying them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of the pigs it breaks down, Oliveto also receives special orders of pork, particularly pork bellies for pancetta. These bellies arrive every other week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, which originated as the online marketing arm for the Slow Food movement. Now a private company, it sells meat from small farmers who are raising and preserving heritage breeds of pigs, turkeys and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to support them, because they are trying to do the right thing, by these animal and the small farmers,\" says Canales. \"These guys have no outlet. Either they find a niche market, or they get forced out by Tyson or the big outfits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/stuwithbelly300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" title=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" width=\"300\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6889\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The author trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While apprenticing at Oliveto, I had a privilege to trim and cure pancetta a few times. It is not terribly hard, as \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/06/home-cured-pancetta.html\">Michael Ruhlman demonstrates\u003c/a> in this post. The slabs of pork are seasoned with salt, curing salt and peppercorns, and then hung in cold storage for a week or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time it is dried, thin sliced and then served, it is belly, belly good. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Oliveto, the true test of its pork obsession comes in February, with the annual Whole Hog dinners. The menu offers nearly every part of the animal, from the brains down to the trotters. Last year's \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/wholehog08.pdf%20\">menu\u003c/a>(pdf) featured a wild boar scaloppine alla Milanese, a spaghetti with pork cracklings and a spit-roasted pork belly with Sicilian chestnut honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/melon-and-coppa500.jpg\" alt=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" title=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" width=\"500\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A basic summer dish at Oliveto - cured coppa and melon.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations for these dinners are an all-year affair, since some types of meats - such as prosciutto and coppa - take many months to cure and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed this year's Whole Hog Dinner, but plan to be there in February. After six months of trimming, slicing, browning, simmering and curing pork, I feel a closer connection to this noble animal, along with an awareness of how much more there is to learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Leavenworth has concluded his apprenticeship at Oliveto, and this is his final post for Bay Area Bites. On Monday, he starts a new job as The Sacramento Bee's editorial page editor. You can contact him at sleavenworth@sacbee.com.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/6883/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_947","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_2717","bayareabites_2726","bayareabites_616","bayareabites_2718"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_977":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_977","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"977","score":null,"sort":[1209232185000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"green-chile-kitchen-revisited-reranted","title":"Green Chile Kitchen Revisited, Reranted","publishDate":1209232185,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/greenchile.jpg\" alt=\"green chile\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/10/22/green-chile-kitchen/\">Green Chile Kitchen\u003c/a>? We're going to have a little chat, and I'm going to talk and you're going to listen, 'kay? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've been going to and loving you for quite some time now. We are, quite possibly, your best customers. Hell, one of your checkout chicks commented to my husband, \"You haven't been here in awhile!\" (Quite true, we hadn't, but she noticed which was awesome!) Also, even if you don't have caller ID, there's no way you don't identify us as, \"those weird people who order the same salad every time -- you know, the ones who always, always want their fifth ingredient to just be more [redacted]?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You are a feast for us as much as you are a comfort. We revel in your fresh greens, we approve of your new and spicier guacamole, and we laud your Niman Ranchiness. (Sidetrack: Is it just me or is Niman Ranch sort of over? I mean, yes, it's undeniably good stuff, but I think the most sought-after meat names these days are not the ones that are known across the country. We're such spoiled Californians.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I say this with love: GET ANOTHER FREAKING REGISTER! Seriously? Waiting in line to pick up a take-out order behind all those baked witlings, who have wrapped themselves in blankets after spending the entire day in Alamo Square Park in order to smoke away every single synapse and then come to GCK, not knowing what the hell they want to order because they got distracted by a shiny object while standing in line and then try to inveigle your eminently patient checkout chicks in deep discussions about her back tattooes, all while my crispy tacos get so decidedly UNcrispy that they sog their bottoms out when I pick them up, well, there is a limit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You always do apologize, probably both for the long wait and idiot customers, but still, can we talk about solutions here? Please?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TWO REGISTERS! One for orders made there and for those intending to eat-in, and the other to ring up and dispense take-out orders. Plus, even if there aren't enough take-out orders at any given time to merit the other register, at least the line can be filtered over to a second reg, rendering the wait shorter and ALL of our lives easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously. I really just want this to work out.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1209406202,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":10,"wordCount":413},"headData":{"title":"Green Chile Kitchen Revisited, Reranted | KQED","description":"Okay, Green Chile Kitchen? We're going to have a little chat, and I'm going to talk and you're going to listen, 'kay? We've been going to and loving you for quite some time now. We are, quite possibly, your best customers. Hell, one of your checkout chicks commented to my husband, "You haven't been here","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Green Chile Kitchen Revisited, Reranted","datePublished":"2008-04-26T17:49:45.000Z","dateModified":"2008-04-28T18:10:02.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"977 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/26/green-chile-kitchen-revisited-reranted/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/26/green-chile-kitchen-revisited-reranted/","disqusTitle":"Green Chile Kitchen Revisited, Reranted","path":"/bayareabites/977/green-chile-kitchen-revisited-reranted","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/greenchile.jpg\" alt=\"green chile\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/10/22/green-chile-kitchen/\">Green Chile Kitchen\u003c/a>? We're going to have a little chat, and I'm going to talk and you're going to listen, 'kay? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've been going to and loving you for quite some time now. We are, quite possibly, your best customers. Hell, one of your checkout chicks commented to my husband, \"You haven't been here in awhile!\" (Quite true, we hadn't, but she noticed which was awesome!) Also, even if you don't have caller ID, there's no way you don't identify us as, \"those weird people who order the same salad every time -- you know, the ones who always, always want their fifth ingredient to just be more [redacted]?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You are a feast for us as much as you are a comfort. We revel in your fresh greens, we approve of your new and spicier guacamole, and we laud your Niman Ranchiness. (Sidetrack: Is it just me or is Niman Ranch sort of over? I mean, yes, it's undeniably good stuff, but I think the most sought-after meat names these days are not the ones that are known across the country. We're such spoiled Californians.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I say this with love: GET ANOTHER FREAKING REGISTER! Seriously? Waiting in line to pick up a take-out order behind all those baked witlings, who have wrapped themselves in blankets after spending the entire day in Alamo Square Park in order to smoke away every single synapse and then come to GCK, not knowing what the hell they want to order because they got distracted by a shiny object while standing in line and then try to inveigle your eminently patient checkout chicks in deep discussions about her back tattooes, all while my crispy tacos get so decidedly UNcrispy that they sog their bottoms out when I pick them up, well, there is a limit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You always do apologize, probably both for the long wait and idiot customers, but still, can we talk about solutions here? Please?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>TWO REGISTERS! One for orders made there and for those intending to eat-in, and the other to ring up and dispense take-out orders. Plus, even if there aren't enough take-out orders at any given time to merit the other register, at least the line can be filtered over to a second reg, rendering the wait shorter and ALL of our lives easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously. I really just want this to work out.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/977/green-chile-kitchen-revisited-reranted","authors":["5010"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_946","bayareabites_479","bayareabites_947","bayareabites_948"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us","airtime":"SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm","meta":{"site":"news","source":"wnyc"},"link":"/radio/program/on-the-media","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/","rss":"http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"}},"our-body-politic":{"id":"our-body-politic","title":"Our Body Politic","info":"Presented by KQED, KCRW and KPCC, and created and hosted by award-winning journalist Farai Chideya, Our Body Politic is unapologetically centered on reporting on not just how women of color experience the major political events of today, but how they’re impacting those very issues.","airtime":"SAT 6pm-7pm, SUN 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Our-Body-Politic-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://our-body-politic.simplecast.com/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kcrw"},"link":"/radio/program/our-body-politic","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/our-body-politic/id1533069868","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5zaW1wbGVjYXN0LmNvbS9feGFQaHMxcw","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/4ApAiLT1kV153TttWAmqmc","rss":"https://feeds.simplecast.com/_xaPhs1s","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/News--Politics-Podcasts/Our-Body-Politic-p1369211/"}},"pbs-newshour":{"id":"pbs-newshour","title":"PBS NewsHour","info":"Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3pm-4pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"pbs"},"link":"/radio/program/pbs-newshour","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/","rss":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"}},"perspectives":{"id":"perspectives","title":"Perspectives","tagline":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991","info":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Perspectives-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/perspectives/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"kqed","order":"15"},"link":"/perspectives","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id73801135","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"}},"planet-money":{"id":"planet-money","title":"Planet Money","info":"The economy explained. 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In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. 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The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.","airtime":"SAT 4pm-5pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/reveal300px.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/reveal","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/reveal/id886009669","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Reveal-p679597/","rss":"http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"}},"says-you":{"id":"says-you","title":"Says You!","info":"Public radio's game show of bluff and bluster, words and whimsy. 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