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"content": "\u003cp>For the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/street-food\">street food\u003c/a> lover, Singapore’s hawker centers are one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007/09/03/three-chopsticks\">great wonders of the world\u003c/a>. Visit any one of these sprawling, semi-outdoor pavilions, and you might find 100 of the most delicious food stalls you’ve ever encountered, all lined up in a row — curry puff specialist next to bak kut teh vendor next to fourth-generation laksa maker next to Michelin-recommended chicken rice stand. Even splurging wildly, you can feed a family of four for less than $20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, the Bay Area has never had anything remotely close to a true Singaporean-style hawker center. But for one day this weekend, a group of homesick Singaporeans will aim to create the next best thing — a hawker center–style food court that brings several of the Bay Area’s top Singaporean chefs together for a day-long bonanza of laksa, char kway teow and kaya toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the vision, anyway, for the first ever \u003ca href=\"https://singaporefest.com/\">Singapore Festival\u003c/a>, which will be held this Sunday, Sept. 21, at the San Mateo County Event Center, in celebration of Singapore’s 60th year of independence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981443\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981443\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of diners seated inside a Singaporean hawker center.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinnertime at Maxwell Food Centre, one of Singapore’s most popular hawker centers. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The brainchild of \u003ca href=\"https://www.singaporeconnect.org/about\">Singapore Connect\u003c/a>, a social club for Bay Area Singaporeans, the festival will feature a \u003ca href=\"https://singaporefest.com/assets/flyers/program.pdf\">slate of performances\u003c/a> by Singaporean musicians (including \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/linying._/?hl=en\">Linying\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisischerylk/?hl=en\">Cheryl K\u003c/a> and the rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yungraja/?hl=en\">Yung Raja\u003c/a>) and stand-up comics, a crafts marketplace, and large-scale models of Singaporean landmarks like the Merlion and the Supertrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, for many visitors the biggest attraction will be the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think we all grew up eating at hawker centers,” says Emily Lim, the chef-owner of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dabaosingapore/?hl=en\">Dabao Singapore\u003c/a>, one of the featured vendors. “It’s Singapore’s pastime, basically, to go eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nora Haron, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13980465/kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast\">chef-owner of Kopi Bar & Bakery\u003c/a>, explains that Singapore Connect’s members always hold a big feast for Singapore’s National Day. This year, however, they decided to open up that celebration to the general public — not just Singaporeans. And so the group asked Haron to co-chair a food committee, along with Jai Kandayah of Pleasanton’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/curryleavesbistro/\">Curry Leaves Bistro\u003c/a>, with the idea of curating a hawker center–like experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981447\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981447\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi.jpg\" alt=\"Woman pours coffee into a cup from a great height.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi.jpg 1500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kopi Bar’s Nora Haron prepares a cup of Singaporean-style coffee, or kopi, in the traditional way, pouring it from a great height. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Nora Haron)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t an easy task. The reality is that most cities in the Bay Area are lucky if they have \u003ci>one \u003c/i>solid, or even middling, Singaporean restaurant. In that sense, a big part of Singapore Festival’s appeal is one of sheer, unprecedented abundance: \u003ca href=\"https://food.hipster-virtual.com/\">10 of the Bay Area’s best Singaporean (and Malaysian and Indonesian) food businesses\u003c/a> gathered under one roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Haron’s top priorities from the very beginning was for the festival’s food offerings to showcase the incredible breadth of Singapore’s food culture — a culture, she says, that’s “built on diversity and shared traditions.” In addition to the country’s Chinese Singaporean majority, she wanted to also include Indonesians, Malaysians and Indians — all ethnicities well represented in Singapore’s cultural landscape and, of course, at its hawker centers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, the ad hoc hawker center will feature seafood laksa and Hainanese chicken rice from Dabao, and kaya toast and curry puffs from San Jose’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/myselerabistro/\">MYSelera Bistro\u003c/a>. Kopi Bar will pour hot and iced kopi (coffee with condensed milk) and kopi-O (black coffee), like you’d find at a traditional Singaporean coffee shop, or kopitiem. Curry Leaves Bistro will serve Malaysian-style nasi lemak and roti prata with curry. Other vendors will sell South Indian biriyani, Indonesian shaved ice and nasi padang, and mochi donuts with Southeast Asian flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981449\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981449\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti.jpg\" alt=\"Roti flatbread with a bowl of bright orange chicken curry on the side.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1225\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti-160x98.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti-768x470.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti-1536x941.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malaysian-style roti prata with a side of chicken curry, courtesy of Pleasanton’s Curry Leaves Bistro. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Curry Leaves Bistro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kandayah, who owns both Curry Leaves Bistro and MYSelera, says he’s a prime example of the festival’s multicultural approach: He’s co-chairing the food committee as a Malaysian immigrant of Chinese-Indian descent. Kandayah explains that Malaysian cuisine and Singaporean cuisine share a lot of dishes in common anyway. As he puts it, “We always say, ‘Same-same but different.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13980465,arts_13953078,arts_13925835']\u003c/span>Kandayah says his hope is that the festival will be a chance for second-generation kids to have something close to an authentic experience of their parents’ food culture — how they’d sometimes eat hawker center fried noodles for breakfast and kaya toast at 10 p.m. “It’s like the tag line for my restaurant,” he says. “‘Any time is makan time.’ Any time is eating time.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Lim, a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2024/4/10/23651870/dabao-singapore-restaurant-opening-james-beard\">James Beard Award–nominated chef\u003c/a> who started Dabao after getting furloughed from her restaurant job during the pandemic, the festival is an expression of Singaporean pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re just trying to make ourselves more known,” she says. “In Singapore, folks tend to think that Western cuisine — Italian, French, whatever it may be — is of more value than the local cuisine. So I felt like I needed to represent [our local food] a little more.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981445\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981445\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of bright orange laksa noodle soup topped with shrimp and fish balls.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diners routinely drive from an hour away to eat Dabao Singapore’s seafood laksa. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dabao Singapore)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, the demand only seems to be growing. Dabao recently opened its first brick-and-mortar location at the Metreon in downtown San Francisco, and Lim says, “I’ve had folks who drive from an hour away to the freaking Metreon just to eat my food court laksa, because they miss those flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Sunday, Singapore Festival’s organizers are expecting a turnout of upwards of 3,000 people, Lim says. Some will enjoy their first bowl of coconut curry laksa, dunk their first slice of kaya toast into the yolk of a soft-boiled egg (heaven!). And for Singaporeans?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The event is a little taste of home,” Lim says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://singaporefest.com/\">Singapore Fest\u003c/a> will take place on Sunday, September 21, from 10 a.m.–8 p.m.. at the San Mateo County Event Center (1346 Saratoga Dr., San Mateo). \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://tickets.singaporefest.com/\">\u003ci>Tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> start at $21 (the code “\u003c/i>\u003ci>SGKQED10” provides a\u003c/i>\u003ci> 10% discount), $11 for children. Food and drinks will be sold a la carte; visitors can \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://food.hipster-virtual.com/\">\u003ci>pre-order\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> specific dishes ahead of time if they want to be sure they don’t sell out.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In San Mateo, the inaugural Singapore Festival will celebrate the country’s 60th birthday.",
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"title": "A New Festival Brings a Singaporean Hawker Center to San Mateo | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/street-food\">street food\u003c/a> lover, Singapore’s hawker centers are one of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007/09/03/three-chopsticks\">great wonders of the world\u003c/a>. Visit any one of these sprawling, semi-outdoor pavilions, and you might find 100 of the most delicious food stalls you’ve ever encountered, all lined up in a row — curry puff specialist next to bak kut teh vendor next to fourth-generation laksa maker next to Michelin-recommended chicken rice stand. Even splurging wildly, you can feed a family of four for less than $20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, the Bay Area has never had anything remotely close to a true Singaporean-style hawker center. But for one day this weekend, a group of homesick Singaporeans will aim to create the next best thing — a hawker center–style food court that brings several of the Bay Area’s top Singaporean chefs together for a day-long bonanza of laksa, char kway teow and kaya toast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the vision, anyway, for the first ever \u003ca href=\"https://singaporefest.com/\">Singapore Festival\u003c/a>, which will be held this Sunday, Sept. 21, at the San Mateo County Event Center, in celebration of Singapore’s 60th year of independence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981443\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981443\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of diners seated inside a Singaporean hawker center.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/maxwell-food-centre-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinnertime at Maxwell Food Centre, one of Singapore’s most popular hawker centers. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The brainchild of \u003ca href=\"https://www.singaporeconnect.org/about\">Singapore Connect\u003c/a>, a social club for Bay Area Singaporeans, the festival will feature a \u003ca href=\"https://singaporefest.com/assets/flyers/program.pdf\">slate of performances\u003c/a> by Singaporean musicians (including \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/linying._/?hl=en\">Linying\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisischerylk/?hl=en\">Cheryl K\u003c/a> and the rapper \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yungraja/?hl=en\">Yung Raja\u003c/a>) and stand-up comics, a crafts marketplace, and large-scale models of Singaporean landmarks like the Merlion and the Supertrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, for many visitors the biggest attraction will be the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think we all grew up eating at hawker centers,” says Emily Lim, the chef-owner of San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dabaosingapore/?hl=en\">Dabao Singapore\u003c/a>, one of the featured vendors. “It’s Singapore’s pastime, basically, to go eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nora Haron, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13980465/kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast\">chef-owner of Kopi Bar & Bakery\u003c/a>, explains that Singapore Connect’s members always hold a big feast for Singapore’s National Day. This year, however, they decided to open up that celebration to the general public — not just Singaporeans. And so the group asked Haron to co-chair a food committee, along with Jai Kandayah of Pleasanton’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/curryleavesbistro/\">Curry Leaves Bistro\u003c/a>, with the idea of curating a hawker center–like experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981447\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981447\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi.jpg\" alt=\"Woman pours coffee into a cup from a great height.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi.jpg 1500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/kopi-bar-kopi-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kopi Bar’s Nora Haron prepares a cup of Singaporean-style coffee, or kopi, in the traditional way, pouring it from a great height. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Nora Haron)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t an easy task. The reality is that most cities in the Bay Area are lucky if they have \u003ci>one \u003c/i>solid, or even middling, Singaporean restaurant. In that sense, a big part of Singapore Festival’s appeal is one of sheer, unprecedented abundance: \u003ca href=\"https://food.hipster-virtual.com/\">10 of the Bay Area’s best Singaporean (and Malaysian and Indonesian) food businesses\u003c/a> gathered under one roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Haron’s top priorities from the very beginning was for the festival’s food offerings to showcase the incredible breadth of Singapore’s food culture — a culture, she says, that’s “built on diversity and shared traditions.” In addition to the country’s Chinese Singaporean majority, she wanted to also include Indonesians, Malaysians and Indians — all ethnicities well represented in Singapore’s cultural landscape and, of course, at its hawker centers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, the ad hoc hawker center will feature seafood laksa and Hainanese chicken rice from Dabao, and kaya toast and curry puffs from San Jose’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/myselerabistro/\">MYSelera Bistro\u003c/a>. Kopi Bar will pour hot and iced kopi (coffee with condensed milk) and kopi-O (black coffee), like you’d find at a traditional Singaporean coffee shop, or kopitiem. Curry Leaves Bistro will serve Malaysian-style nasi lemak and roti prata with curry. Other vendors will sell South Indian biriyani, Indonesian shaved ice and nasi padang, and mochi donuts with Southeast Asian flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981449\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981449\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti.jpg\" alt=\"Roti flatbread with a bowl of bright orange chicken curry on the side.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1225\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti-160x98.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti-768x470.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/curry-leaves-roti-1536x941.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malaysian-style roti prata with a side of chicken curry, courtesy of Pleasanton’s Curry Leaves Bistro. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Curry Leaves Bistro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kandayah, who owns both Curry Leaves Bistro and MYSelera, says he’s a prime example of the festival’s multicultural approach: He’s co-chairing the food committee as a Malaysian immigrant of Chinese-Indian descent. Kandayah explains that Malaysian cuisine and Singaporean cuisine share a lot of dishes in common anyway. As he puts it, “We always say, ‘Same-same but different.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Kandayah says his hope is that the festival will be a chance for second-generation kids to have something close to an authentic experience of their parents’ food culture — how they’d sometimes eat hawker center fried noodles for breakfast and kaya toast at 10 p.m. “It’s like the tag line for my restaurant,” he says. “‘Any time is makan time.’ Any time is eating time.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Lim, a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2024/4/10/23651870/dabao-singapore-restaurant-opening-james-beard\">James Beard Award–nominated chef\u003c/a> who started Dabao after getting furloughed from her restaurant job during the pandemic, the festival is an expression of Singaporean pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re just trying to make ourselves more known,” she says. “In Singapore, folks tend to think that Western cuisine — Italian, French, whatever it may be — is of more value than the local cuisine. So I felt like I needed to represent [our local food] a little more.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981445\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981445\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of bright orange laksa noodle soup topped with shrimp and fish balls.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/dabao-laksa-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diners routinely drive from an hour away to eat Dabao Singapore’s seafood laksa. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dabao Singapore)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, the demand only seems to be growing. Dabao recently opened its first brick-and-mortar location at the Metreon in downtown San Francisco, and Lim says, “I’ve had folks who drive from an hour away to the freaking Metreon just to eat my food court laksa, because they miss those flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Sunday, Singapore Festival’s organizers are expecting a turnout of upwards of 3,000 people, Lim says. Some will enjoy their first bowl of coconut curry laksa, dunk their first slice of kaya toast into the yolk of a soft-boiled egg (heaven!). And for Singaporeans?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The event is a little taste of home,” Lim says.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://singaporefest.com/\">Singapore Fest\u003c/a> will take place on Sunday, September 21, from 10 a.m.–8 p.m.. at the San Mateo County Event Center (1346 Saratoga Dr., San Mateo). \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://tickets.singaporefest.com/\">\u003ci>Tickets\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> start at $21 (the code “\u003c/i>\u003ci>SGKQED10” provides a\u003c/i>\u003ci> 10% discount), $11 for children. Food and drinks will be sold a la carte; visitors can \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://food.hipster-virtual.com/\">\u003ci>pre-order\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> specific dishes ahead of time if they want to be sure they don’t sell out.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Ben & Jerry’s co-founder Jerry Greenfield is leaving the ice cream brand after 47 years, saying that the independence it once had to speak up on social issues has been stifled by parent company Unilever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a letter that co-founder Ben Cohen posted on social media platform X on Greenfield’s behalf, Greenfield said that he felt the independence the brand had to speak on social issues and events was lost to Unilever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='bayareabites_12463']“For more than 20 years under their ownership, Ben & Jerry’s stood up and spoke out in support of peace, justice and human rights, not as abstract concepts, but in relation to real events happening in our world,” he wrote. “That independence existed in no small part because of the unique merger agreement Ben and I negotiated with Unilever, one that enshrined our social mission and values in the company’s governance structure in perpetuity. It’s profoundly disappointing to come to the conclusion that that independence, the very basis of our sale to Unilever, is gone.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Greenfield said that the loss of independence was coming “at a time when our country’s current administration is attacking civil rights, voting rights, the rights of immigrants, women and the LGBTQ community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Standing up for the values of justice, equity, and our shared humanity has never been more important, and yet Ben & Jerry’s has been silenced, sidelined for fear of upsetting those in power,” he said. “It’s easy to stand up and speak out when there’s nothing at risk. The real test of values is when times are challenging and you have something to lose.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Greenfield noted that Ben & Jerry’s, famous for its colorful ice cream containers with flavor names such as Cherry Garcia and Phish Food, “was always about more than just ice cream; it was a way to spread love and invite others into the fight for equity, justice and a better world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever, based in London, is spinning off its ice cream business including Ben & Jerry’s into a stand-alone company called The Magnum Ice Cream Company. Greenfield and Cohen have been pushing for Ben & Jerry’s to be allowed to become an independently owned company again, saying in a letter to Magnum’s board that they don’t believe the brand should be part of a corporation that doesn’t support its founding mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='bayareabites_121193']A spokesperson for Magnum said in a statement on Wednesday that it would be forever grateful to Greenfield for his contributions to Ben & Jerry’s and thanked him for his service, but was not aligned with his viewpoint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We disagree with his perspective and have sought to engage both co-founders in a constructive conversation on how to strengthen Ben & Jerry’s powerful values-based position in the world,” the spokesperson said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Magnum said that it is still committed to Ben & Jerry’s mission and remains “focused on carrying forward the legacy of peace, love, and ice cream of this iconic, much-loved brand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13955963\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13955963 size-full\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_.jpg\" alt=\"A woman's hand with pink painted nails holds two cones of ice cream in the air\" width=\"1500\" height=\"844\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_.jpg 1500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ben & Jerry’s flavors include options like Cherry Garcia and Phish Food — reflecting the hippie values of the company’s founders. \u003ccite>(Ben & Jerry's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ben & Jerry’s has been at odds with Unilever for a while. In March Ben & Jerry’s said that its CEO was unlawfully removed by Unilever in retaliation for the ice cream maker’s social and political activism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a federal court filing, Ben & Jerry’s said that Unilever informed its board on March 3 that it was removing and replacing Ben & Jerry’s CEO David Stever. Ben & Jerry’s said that violated its merger agreement with Unilever, which states that any decisions regarding a CEO’s removal must come after a consultation with an advisory committee from Ben & Jerry’s board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever said in a statement at the time that it hoped Ben & Jerry’s board would engage in the agreed-upon process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever acquired Ben & Jerry’s in 2000 for $326 million. At the time, Ben & Jerry’s said the partnership would help the progressive Vermont-based ice cream company expand its social mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13981369']But lately, the marriage hasn’t been a happy one. In 2021, Ben & Jerry’s announced it would stop serving Israeli settlements in the occupied West Bank and contested east Jerusalem. The following year, Unilever sold its Israeli business to a local company that said it would sell Ben & Jerry’s under its Hebrew and Arabic name throughout Israel and the West Bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March 2024 Unilever announced the spinoff of the ice cream business — including Ben & Jerry’s — by the end of 2025 as part of a larger restructuring. Unilever also owns personal hygiene brands like Dove soap and food brands like Hellmann’s mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the acrimony continued. In November, Ben & Jerry’s sued Unilever in federal court in New York, accusing it of silencing Ben & Jerry’s statements in support of Palestinians in the Gaza war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In its complaint, Ben & Jerry’s said Unilever also refused to let the company release a social media post that identified issues it believed would be challenged during President Donald Trump’s second term, including minimum wages, universal health care, abortion and climate change.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“For more than 20 years under their ownership, Ben & Jerry’s stood up and spoke out in support of peace, justice and human rights, not as abstract concepts, but in relation to real events happening in our world,” he wrote. “That independence existed in no small part because of the unique merger agreement Ben and I negotiated with Unilever, one that enshrined our social mission and values in the company’s governance structure in perpetuity. It’s profoundly disappointing to come to the conclusion that that independence, the very basis of our sale to Unilever, is gone.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Greenfield said that the loss of independence was coming “at a time when our country’s current administration is attacking civil rights, voting rights, the rights of immigrants, women and the LGBTQ community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Standing up for the values of justice, equity, and our shared humanity has never been more important, and yet Ben & Jerry’s has been silenced, sidelined for fear of upsetting those in power,” he said. “It’s easy to stand up and speak out when there’s nothing at risk. The real test of values is when times are challenging and you have something to lose.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Greenfield noted that Ben & Jerry’s, famous for its colorful ice cream containers with flavor names such as Cherry Garcia and Phish Food, “was always about more than just ice cream; it was a way to spread love and invite others into the fight for equity, justice and a better world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever, based in London, is spinning off its ice cream business including Ben & Jerry’s into a stand-alone company called The Magnum Ice Cream Company. Greenfield and Cohen have been pushing for Ben & Jerry’s to be allowed to become an independently owned company again, saying in a letter to Magnum’s board that they don’t believe the brand should be part of a corporation that doesn’t support its founding mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>A spokesperson for Magnum said in a statement on Wednesday that it would be forever grateful to Greenfield for his contributions to Ben & Jerry’s and thanked him for his service, but was not aligned with his viewpoint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We disagree with his perspective and have sought to engage both co-founders in a constructive conversation on how to strengthen Ben & Jerry’s powerful values-based position in the world,” the spokesperson said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Magnum said that it is still committed to Ben & Jerry’s mission and remains “focused on carrying forward the legacy of peace, love, and ice cream of this iconic, much-loved brand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13955963\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13955963 size-full\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_.jpg\" alt=\"A woman's hand with pink painted nails holds two cones of ice cream in the air\" width=\"1500\" height=\"844\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_.jpg 1500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Ben.Jerrys.IceCream.free_-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ben & Jerry’s flavors include options like Cherry Garcia and Phish Food — reflecting the hippie values of the company’s founders. \u003ccite>(Ben & Jerry's)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ben & Jerry’s has been at odds with Unilever for a while. In March Ben & Jerry’s said that its CEO was unlawfully removed by Unilever in retaliation for the ice cream maker’s social and political activism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a federal court filing, Ben & Jerry’s said that Unilever informed its board on March 3 that it was removing and replacing Ben & Jerry’s CEO David Stever. Ben & Jerry’s said that violated its merger agreement with Unilever, which states that any decisions regarding a CEO’s removal must come after a consultation with an advisory committee from Ben & Jerry’s board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever said in a statement at the time that it hoped Ben & Jerry’s board would engage in the agreed-upon process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unilever acquired Ben & Jerry’s in 2000 for $326 million. At the time, Ben & Jerry’s said the partnership would help the progressive Vermont-based ice cream company expand its social mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>But lately, the marriage hasn’t been a happy one. In 2021, Ben & Jerry’s announced it would stop serving Israeli settlements in the occupied West Bank and contested east Jerusalem. The following year, Unilever sold its Israeli business to a local company that said it would sell Ben & Jerry’s under its Hebrew and Arabic name throughout Israel and the West Bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March 2024 Unilever announced the spinoff of the ice cream business — including Ben & Jerry’s — by the end of 2025 as part of a larger restructuring. Unilever also owns personal hygiene brands like Dove soap and food brands like Hellmann’s mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the acrimony continued. In November, Ben & Jerry’s sued Unilever in federal court in New York, accusing it of silencing Ben & Jerry’s statements in support of Palestinians in the Gaza war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In its complaint, Ben & Jerry’s said Unilever also refused to let the company release a social media post that identified issues it believed would be challenged during President Donald Trump’s second term, including minimum wages, universal health care, abortion and climate change.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "a-santa-cruz-gardening-collective-cultivates-belonging-for-queer-and-trans-asian-americans",
"title": "A Santa Cruz Gardening Collective Cultivates Belonging for Queer and Trans Asian Americans",
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"content": "\u003cp>It’s a cloudy June morning at a community garden in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/santa-cruz\">Santa Cruz\u003c/a>, a verdant green space tucked into the U-shaped end of a residential cul-de-sac. Grassy pathways wind past small garden plots, each an expression of the interests or culture of its caretaker. Some beds burst with vegetables and herbs while others sit bare, their damp soil just waiting for new seeds to take root.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the eastern edge of the garden, a rainbow flag flutters in the wind, signaling the location of the Bitter Cotyledons, a queer and trans Asian American gardening collective. Here, four longtime members talk excitedly about their plans for their plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A thick bush of Japanese buckwheat, with its distinct heart-shaped leaves and tiny white flowers, is earmarked for an experiment in milling soba noodle flour. A type of mugwort native to Korea and Japan is set aside for making mochi or herbal cigarettes. Chrysanthemum bushes that produce white, fluffy flowers in the fall are reserved for a traditional Chinese tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We basically grow Asian vegetables to understand and explore our cultural identities and ancestries, but through our queer experiences of being in diaspora,” said Kellee Matsushita-Tseng, a fourth-generation Japanese American and third-generation Chinese American farmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2019, she co-founded the Bitter Cotyledons with her partner, Tam Welch, a Korean American who works in the arts. As Matsushita-Tseng explained, the name of the collective carries ideas about the nourishing qualities of bitter Asian foods and queer communities — and how both can grow despite being underappreciated. (A cotyledon is the first leaf that emerges from a plant embryo, providing it with nutrients while it grows.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980873\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kellee Matsushita-Tseng, founder of Bitter Cotyledons, poses for a portrait at the collective’s community garden in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. Bitter Cotyledons strives to build a community for queer and Asian individuals to connect with their culture through gardening and food. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every weekend, the Bitter Cotyledons meet to tend their plot at the community garden, a city-owned space. With twelve regularly active members, the collective is growing around 35 different vegetables and herbs, including Chinese licorice, Japanese Akahana Mame beans, Vietnamese coriander and perilla. It’s a lot for their 750 square feet of land (300 of which is on loan from a neighboring gardener). If given more space, they’d keep expanding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they aren’t alone. \u003ca href=\"https://www.nass.usda.gov/Publications/Highlights/2024/Census22_HL_AsianProducers.pdf\">According\u003c/a> to the USDA, an increasing number of Asian Americans are getting into agriculture. Between 2017 and 2022, the number of Asian farmers and ranchers in the U.S. rose by 8 percent, even as the total number of farmers and ranchers fell by about 1 percent. California leads the way with the highest number of Asian farmers, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.masumoto.com/\">Matsumoto Family Farm\u003c/a> near Fresno, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897752/radical-family-farms-asian-produce-taiwanese-identity-sonoma\">Leslie Wiser at Radical Family Farms\u003c/a> and Kristyn Leach at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13928023/kristyn-leach-asian-american-farmer-gohyang-seed-campus-sebastopol\">Gohyang Fields\u003c/a>, both in Sebastopol. In some ways, the Bitter Cotyledons reflect this broader trend. But they aren’t growing crops for mass distribution or profit — they’re cultivating queer and cultural belonging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of us have difficult or distant relationships with our blood families in part because of our queer identities,” Matsushita-Tseng explained. Coming together around plants is a way to connect with their cultures on their own terms and in alignment with their own values.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Chrysanthemum dreams\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Outside the garden, the collective gets together periodically to cook, share meals and exchange recipes. Hot pot loaded with the different vegetables they’ve grown is a particular favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, the group has selected which plants to cultivate together, but this year, each member is responsible for one plant on their own, nurturing it from seed to the kitchen. “The one I’m focusing on this season is the chrysanthemum,” said Louise Leong, a Chinese American artist. She’s already tossed the edible greens from one variety of the flower into soup and rolled them into a batter with shrimp to make fritters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980874\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of Bitter Cotyledons tend to their gardening plot in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Leong joined the Bitter Cotyledons after responding to a call for new members on Lex, an app for finding LGBTQ+ friends. “It said something like, ‘Queer Asians who want to learn how to grow vegetables — join here,’” Leong said, chuckling. “At that time, I was getting more interested in my heritage and learning how to cook more Chinese dishes.” Bitter Cotyledons gave her a safe space to express the “shame” she felt for not already knowing how, she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if Leong had had that knowledge, sourcing the ingredients on her own wouldn’t have been easy. Santa Cruz’s lack of an Asian grocery store is a reason Leong and other collective members often hear for why Asian Americans wind up leaving the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Santa Cruz County has only a 6 percent Asian American population — a stark \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/quickfacts/fact/table/santaclaracountycalifornia,santacruzcountycalifornia/PST045224\">contrast\u003c/a> to 43 percent “over the hill” in Santa Clara County, where Asian grocers and restaurants are far more abundant. Before they started growing their own produce, collective members routinely had to drive 30 miles to San Jose to shop at places like 99 Ranch, Mitsuwa Marketplace, Đại-Thành Supermarket or H-Mart if they wanted to cook anything with “special vegetables,” Matsushita-Tseng said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That includes choy sum, gobo (Japanese burdock root), gai lan (Chinese broccoli) and mustard greens. Now, the collective’s garden allows members to cultivate hard-to-find varieties that aren’t available in grocery stores at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A need for community\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>At the Santa Cruz plot, the four gardeners who’d come to tend to their plots this day observed with concern that their mugwort had spread wildly, threatening to overrun the surrounding plants. Without hesitation, Nat L., one of the oldest members, took action, snipping off the tall stalks with garden shears while the others looked on, amused by their quick response.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was just three of us for a while,” said Nat, a biologist born and raised in Singapore who declined to give their last name. Nat met Matsushita-Tseng and Welch at a plant swap and joined Bitter Cotyledons during a time of intense isolation and introspection in the spring of 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980878\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980878\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A black sesame plant grows on Bitter Cotyledons’ plot in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>California was slowly reopening after an almost yearlong lockdown. Anti-Asian rhetoric and hate crimes had surged after Donald Trump’s claims that China was to blame for COVID-19. A gunman had shot and killed eight people, six of Asian descent, at Young’s Asian Massage Parlor in Georgia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was trying to figure out my place here, in a very white community, when all these massive discussions and questions around race and racial justice were happening,” Nat said. “There was a real need to be able to talk about it and have community, sometimes to just express frustrations at the system.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before she started the collective, Matsushita-Tseng came from a similar place. As a farmer, she often found herself in environments where she was the only queer person and person of color. Bitter Cotyledons was born out of “necessity,” she explained. “For queer folks, at least in my experience, our survival and well-being depend on the ability to be in community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now involved in multiple land-based collectives, she also works with \u003ca href=\"https://www.secondgenerationseeds.com/\">Second Generation Seeds\u003c/a>, a group of farmers preserving Asian heirloom seeds — some of which have found their way into the Bitter Cotyledons plot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As morning gave way to afternoon, other community gardeners slowly began arriving to work their soil and water their plants. Gophers tunneled underground, gnawing on roots and occasionally popping their heads up to sniff the air. One surfaced near Leong, who sat low to the ground in a small, repurposed classroom chair, reflecting on the benefits of collective gardening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980876\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harvested tomatoes fill containers. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like others in the group, she said gardening with other queer Asian Americans has supported her mental health, something she thinks about deeply as a therapist’s wife. “Our families have all experienced trauma from migration or war, separation or interpersonal relationships,” Leong said. “But then there’s also this aspect where you don’t really talk about it. I think that’s fairly common in Asian families and Asian communities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, research indicates that \u003ca href=\"https://www.mdpi.com/1660-4601/17/18/6740\">community gardening\u003c/a> and access to \u003ca href=\"https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7829482/\">culturally significant foods\u003c/a> are both powerful tools for promoting mental well-being. Gardening with others in a group enhances resilience and reduces depression. And expressing one’s cultural identity through food has been associated with pleasure, belonging and comfort.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, these wellness resources are particularly important, as financial barriers and a lack of gender- and culturally-affirming providers pose major obstacles to mental healthcare for queer and trans Asian Americans and Pacific Islanders, according to Jasmine Hoo, the healing justice organizer at \u003ca href=\"https://lavenderphoenix.org/\">Lavender Phoenix\u003c/a>, a Bay Area organization dedicated to meeting the needs of this population. While not a panacea, collective growing can provide gentle support, with benefits that sometimes extend beyond the garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bitter Cotyledons co-founder Welch, those benefits include being able to keep a roof over their head. For the last three years, the National Low Income Housing Coalition has \u003ca href=\"https://nlihc.org/sites/default/files/oor/2025_OOR-California.pdf\">ranked\u003c/a> Santa Cruz County the most costly place to rent, not only in California but in the nation. So when Welch’s landlord sold their apartment building, giving them two months to find a new place after 15 years of tenancy, the Bitter Cotyledons were the ones who stepped in, helping with the move and offering food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13980880 size-full\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tam Welch, co-founder of Bitter Cotyledons, poses for a portrait at the collective’s garden in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Without this group, I would not have stayed in Santa Cruz,” Welch said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before co-founding the gardening collective, Welch said it had been challenging to build a queer Asian community, as potential friends often moved away for more affordable housing. Now, Welch no longer worries about finding community because they know they’ll find it at their shared garden plot every weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bitter Cotyledons has gotten large enough now that most people hear about it through word of mouth. Recognizing the diversity of the Asian diaspora, the group is expanding to include Pacific Islanders, Southwest Asians and North Africans (\u003ca href=\"https://swanaalliance.com/about\">SWANA\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a lot of interest in learning about culinary Asian ancestral foodways,” Welch said, noting that even straight people have inquired about joining the collective. However, Welch and Matsushita-Tseng are committed to preserving this uniquely queer space, ensuring their community has a place to feel rooted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "The Bitter Cotyledons collective grows Asian crops to connect with their ancestors and help queer folks feel rooted.\r\n",
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"title": "A Santa Cruz Gardening Collective Cultivates Belonging for Queer and Trans Asian Americans | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It’s a cloudy June morning at a community garden in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/santa-cruz\">Santa Cruz\u003c/a>, a verdant green space tucked into the U-shaped end of a residential cul-de-sac. Grassy pathways wind past small garden plots, each an expression of the interests or culture of its caretaker. Some beds burst with vegetables and herbs while others sit bare, their damp soil just waiting for new seeds to take root.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the eastern edge of the garden, a rainbow flag flutters in the wind, signaling the location of the Bitter Cotyledons, a queer and trans Asian American gardening collective. Here, four longtime members talk excitedly about their plans for their plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A thick bush of Japanese buckwheat, with its distinct heart-shaped leaves and tiny white flowers, is earmarked for an experiment in milling soba noodle flour. A type of mugwort native to Korea and Japan is set aside for making mochi or herbal cigarettes. Chrysanthemum bushes that produce white, fluffy flowers in the fall are reserved for a traditional Chinese tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We basically grow Asian vegetables to understand and explore our cultural identities and ancestries, but through our queer experiences of being in diaspora,” said Kellee Matsushita-Tseng, a fourth-generation Japanese American and third-generation Chinese American farmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2019, she co-founded the Bitter Cotyledons with her partner, Tam Welch, a Korean American who works in the arts. As Matsushita-Tseng explained, the name of the collective carries ideas about the nourishing qualities of bitter Asian foods and queer communities — and how both can grow despite being underappreciated. (A cotyledon is the first leaf that emerges from a plant embryo, providing it with nutrients while it grows.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980873\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00282_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kellee Matsushita-Tseng, founder of Bitter Cotyledons, poses for a portrait at the collective’s community garden in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. Bitter Cotyledons strives to build a community for queer and Asian individuals to connect with their culture through gardening and food. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Every weekend, the Bitter Cotyledons meet to tend their plot at the community garden, a city-owned space. With twelve regularly active members, the collective is growing around 35 different vegetables and herbs, including Chinese licorice, Japanese Akahana Mame beans, Vietnamese coriander and perilla. It’s a lot for their 750 square feet of land (300 of which is on loan from a neighboring gardener). If given more space, they’d keep expanding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they aren’t alone. \u003ca href=\"https://www.nass.usda.gov/Publications/Highlights/2024/Census22_HL_AsianProducers.pdf\">According\u003c/a> to the USDA, an increasing number of Asian Americans are getting into agriculture. Between 2017 and 2022, the number of Asian farmers and ranchers in the U.S. rose by 8 percent, even as the total number of farmers and ranchers fell by about 1 percent. California leads the way with the highest number of Asian farmers, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.masumoto.com/\">Matsumoto Family Farm\u003c/a> near Fresno, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897752/radical-family-farms-asian-produce-taiwanese-identity-sonoma\">Leslie Wiser at Radical Family Farms\u003c/a> and Kristyn Leach at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13928023/kristyn-leach-asian-american-farmer-gohyang-seed-campus-sebastopol\">Gohyang Fields\u003c/a>, both in Sebastopol. In some ways, the Bitter Cotyledons reflect this broader trend. But they aren’t growing crops for mass distribution or profit — they’re cultivating queer and cultural belonging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of us have difficult or distant relationships with our blood families in part because of our queer identities,” Matsushita-Tseng explained. Coming together around plants is a way to connect with their cultures on their own terms and in alignment with their own values.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Chrysanthemum dreams\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Outside the garden, the collective gets together periodically to cook, share meals and exchange recipes. Hot pot loaded with the different vegetables they’ve grown is a particular favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, the group has selected which plants to cultivate together, but this year, each member is responsible for one plant on their own, nurturing it from seed to the kitchen. “The one I’m focusing on this season is the chrysanthemum,” said Louise Leong, a Chinese American artist. She’s already tossed the edible greens from one variety of the flower into soup and rolled them into a batter with shrimp to make fritters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980874\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00370_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of Bitter Cotyledons tend to their gardening plot in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Leong joined the Bitter Cotyledons after responding to a call for new members on Lex, an app for finding LGBTQ+ friends. “It said something like, ‘Queer Asians who want to learn how to grow vegetables — join here,’” Leong said, chuckling. “At that time, I was getting more interested in my heritage and learning how to cook more Chinese dishes.” Bitter Cotyledons gave her a safe space to express the “shame” she felt for not already knowing how, she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if Leong had had that knowledge, sourcing the ingredients on her own wouldn’t have been easy. Santa Cruz’s lack of an Asian grocery store is a reason Leong and other collective members often hear for why Asian Americans wind up leaving the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Santa Cruz County has only a 6 percent Asian American population — a stark \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/quickfacts/fact/table/santaclaracountycalifornia,santacruzcountycalifornia/PST045224\">contrast\u003c/a> to 43 percent “over the hill” in Santa Clara County, where Asian grocers and restaurants are far more abundant. Before they started growing their own produce, collective members routinely had to drive 30 miles to San Jose to shop at places like 99 Ranch, Mitsuwa Marketplace, Đại-Thành Supermarket or H-Mart if they wanted to cook anything with “special vegetables,” Matsushita-Tseng said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That includes choy sum, gobo (Japanese burdock root), gai lan (Chinese broccoli) and mustard greens. Now, the collective’s garden allows members to cultivate hard-to-find varieties that aren’t available in grocery stores at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A need for community\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>At the Santa Cruz plot, the four gardeners who’d come to tend to their plots this day observed with concern that their mugwort had spread wildly, threatening to overrun the surrounding plants. Without hesitation, Nat L., one of the oldest members, took action, snipping off the tall stalks with garden shears while the others looked on, amused by their quick response.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It was just three of us for a while,” said Nat, a biologist born and raised in Singapore who declined to give their last name. Nat met Matsushita-Tseng and Welch at a plant swap and joined Bitter Cotyledons during a time of intense isolation and introspection in the spring of 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980878\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980878\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00703_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A black sesame plant grows on Bitter Cotyledons’ plot in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>California was slowly reopening after an almost yearlong lockdown. Anti-Asian rhetoric and hate crimes had surged after Donald Trump’s claims that China was to blame for COVID-19. A gunman had shot and killed eight people, six of Asian descent, at Young’s Asian Massage Parlor in Georgia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was trying to figure out my place here, in a very white community, when all these massive discussions and questions around race and racial justice were happening,” Nat said. “There was a real need to be able to talk about it and have community, sometimes to just express frustrations at the system.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before she started the collective, Matsushita-Tseng came from a similar place. As a farmer, she often found herself in environments where she was the only queer person and person of color. Bitter Cotyledons was born out of “necessity,” she explained. “For queer folks, at least in my experience, our survival and well-being depend on the ability to be in community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now involved in multiple land-based collectives, she also works with \u003ca href=\"https://www.secondgenerationseeds.com/\">Second Generation Seeds\u003c/a>, a group of farmers preserving Asian heirloom seeds — some of which have found their way into the Bitter Cotyledons plot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As morning gave way to afternoon, other community gardeners slowly began arriving to work their soil and water their plants. Gophers tunneled underground, gnawing on roots and occasionally popping their heads up to sniff the air. One surfaced near Leong, who sat low to the ground in a small, repurposed classroom chair, reflecting on the benefits of collective gardening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980876\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00512_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harvested tomatoes fill containers. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like others in the group, she said gardening with other queer Asian Americans has supported her mental health, something she thinks about deeply as a therapist’s wife. “Our families have all experienced trauma from migration or war, separation or interpersonal relationships,” Leong said. “But then there’s also this aspect where you don’t really talk about it. I think that’s fairly common in Asian families and Asian communities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, research indicates that \u003ca href=\"https://www.mdpi.com/1660-4601/17/18/6740\">community gardening\u003c/a> and access to \u003ca href=\"https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7829482/\">culturally significant foods\u003c/a> are both powerful tools for promoting mental well-being. Gardening with others in a group enhances resilience and reduces depression. And expressing one’s cultural identity through food has been associated with pleasure, belonging and comfort.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, these wellness resources are particularly important, as financial barriers and a lack of gender- and culturally-affirming providers pose major obstacles to mental healthcare for queer and trans Asian Americans and Pacific Islanders, according to Jasmine Hoo, the healing justice organizer at \u003ca href=\"https://lavenderphoenix.org/\">Lavender Phoenix\u003c/a>, a Bay Area organization dedicated to meeting the needs of this population. While not a panacea, collective growing can provide gentle support, with benefits that sometimes extend beyond the garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bitter Cotyledons co-founder Welch, those benefits include being able to keep a roof over their head. For the last three years, the National Low Income Housing Coalition has \u003ca href=\"https://nlihc.org/sites/default/files/oor/2025_OOR-California.pdf\">ranked\u003c/a> Santa Cruz County the most costly place to rent, not only in California but in the nation. So when Welch’s landlord sold their apartment building, giving them two months to find a new place after 15 years of tenancy, the Bitter Cotyledons were the ones who stepped in, helping with the move and offering food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13980880 size-full\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/250830_AAPIGARDENINGCOLLECTIVE00812_TV-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tam Welch, co-founder of Bitter Cotyledons, poses for a portrait at the collective’s garden in Santa Cruz on Aug. 30, 2025. \u003ccite>(Tâm Vũ/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Without this group, I would not have stayed in Santa Cruz,” Welch said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before co-founding the gardening collective, Welch said it had been challenging to build a queer Asian community, as potential friends often moved away for more affordable housing. Now, Welch no longer worries about finding community because they know they’ll find it at their shared garden plot every weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bitter Cotyledons has gotten large enough now that most people hear about it through word of mouth. Recognizing the diversity of the Asian diaspora, the group is expanding to include Pacific Islanders, Southwest Asians and North Africans (\u003ca href=\"https://swanaalliance.com/about\">SWANA\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a lot of interest in learning about culinary Asian ancestral foodways,” Welch said, noting that even straight people have inquired about joining the collective. However, Welch and Matsushita-Tseng are committed to preserving this uniquely queer space, ensuring their community has a place to feel rooted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>On a bright, sun-soaked Sunday afternoon last September, a crowd of 400-plus food lovers gathered in style at an \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/oakland\">Oakland\u003c/a> nightclub to close out the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13964180/bay-area-african-restaurant-week-nigerian-ethiopian-jollof-oakland\">first ever African Restaurant Week\u003c/a>. While the DJ spun AfroBeats, chefs and caterers representing various corners of the African diaspora passed out sizzling suya skewers and big heaping plates of jollof rice and whole grilled fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People loved it,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/\">Jollof Kitchen’s\u003c/a> Kemi Tijaniqudus, who co-organized the event. “I loved that all kinds of people came just to taste the different foods. It wasn’t just Africans.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The annual celebration of African food returns to the Bay Area this week and will run from Sept. 12–21, kicking off with an opening night party at Parliament in Oakland on Sept. 12.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to a typical restaurant week, Bay Area African Restaurant Week features a lineup of 28 participating restaurants that will offer deals and special menu items over the course of the 10-day promotion. The list of participants is like a who’s who of diasporic African food in the Bay, running the gamut from decades-old neighborhood staples like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/redseaoakland/?hl=en\">Red Sea\u003c/a> in Oakland and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bissapbaobab/?hl=en\">Bissap Baobab\u003c/a> in the Mission, to splashy up-and-comers like Old Oakland’s Afro-Caribbean cocktail spot \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nosso.oak/?hl=en\">Nosso Bar\u003c/a> and Jack London Nigerian newcomer \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/9jagrills/?hl=en\">9jaGrills\u003c/a>. Most will give a 10% discount to customers who mention African Restaurant Week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The promotion launched last year as a collaboration between Tijaniqudus and Akin Akinsanya, founder of a New York–based company that puts on similar \u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/about-african-restaurant-week/\">African Restaurant Week\u003c/a> events all over the country. Tijaniqudus says when she came up with the idea for the event, her explicit goal was to shine a light on the tremendous diversity of African food in the Bay Area, where certain cuisines, like Nigerian food and Ethiopian food, have achieved a certain degree of mainstream popularity. But what about the cuisines of Zimbabwe or Gambia? What about Ghana or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13954267/tanzanian-restaurant-swahili-spot-west-oakland-curry\">Tanzania\u003c/a>? Tijanqudus’ dream was that Bay Area food enthusiasts would fall in love with those cuisines as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960583\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960583\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop.jpg\" alt=\"Customers eating jollof rice out of black plastic takeout containers.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-1536x1057.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers enjoying their orders of Jollof Kitchen’s Nigerian-style jollof rice. Owner Kemi Tijaniqudus is one of the co-organizers of Bay Area African Restaurant Week. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jollof Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The challenge, Tijanqudus explains, is that most of the Bay Area chefs specializing in those cuisines don’t have restaurants of their own, so they can’t really participate in a traditional restaurant week. The solution was to close out the event with a big African food festival — the aforementioned Oakland courtyard gathering, which has been expanded to two days this year, Sept. 20 and Sept. 21, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fortheculture701/\">For the Culture \u003c/a>in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jason Wealth, a Ghanaian American who runs \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaybabas_kitchen/\">JayBaba’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, says he started his pop-up and catering company three years ago as a way to spread his love for Ghanaian cooking and to show how luxurious African food can be. He explains that the cuisine is similar to Nigerian food except a lot less spicy — but still packed with flavor. And despite Ghanaian food’s relatively low visibility in the Bay, Wealth says his stand was the most popular one at last year’s African Restaurant Week closing festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was the only person who had over 50 people waiting in line to get my food,” he says with evident pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest hits? His whole tilapia, which he and his team grilled over hot coals right there in the courtyard. At this year’s two-day festival, Wealth will bring the tilapia back, along with his waakye (a rice and bean dish) and Ghanaian-style jollof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981323\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981323\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia.jpg\" alt=\"Whole fish cooking over hot coals.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole tilapia cooking over hot coals, courtesy of JayBaba’s Kitchen. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of JayBaba's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests who want to explore the Bay Area’s harder-to-find African cuisines can also check out the Sept. 12 kickoff party at Parliament, where Jollof Kitchen (Nigerian) will be joined by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tutifrutisbazaar/?hl=en\">Tuti Fruti’s Bazaar\u003c/a> (Gambian) and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/vumbamtskitchen/?hl=en\">Vumba Mts Kitchen\u003c/a> (Zimbabwean). All three vendors will be selling their food at the closing festival as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13978846,arts_13960580']\u003c/span>Both the opening and closing celebrations will be open to guests 21-years-old and up, since the venues are bars and nightclubs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tijaniqudus, who first made a name for herself as a two-time winner of the Bay Area \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">Jollof Festival\u003c/a>, says what she loves about African Restaurant Week is that there isn’t any sense of competition with the other vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We just want everybody to come represent,” she says. “This is more of an exhibit, just showing off what you have and introducing our cultures to other people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Bay Area African Restaurant Week will run from Sept. 12–21. You can view the current list of \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">\u003ci>participating restaurants\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on the African Restaurant Week website. The kickoff party will be held on Friday, Sept. 12 from 6–10 p.m. at Parliament (811 Washington St., Oakland). The two-day \u003c/i>\u003ci>closing festival\u003c/i>\u003ci> will be held at For the Culture (701 Clay St., Oakland) on Saturday, Sept. 20 and Sunday, Sept. 21, from noon–6 p.m. Food and beverages will be sold a la carte. Note: Both the opening and closing events are ages 21+ only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On a bright, sun-soaked Sunday afternoon last September, a crowd of 400-plus food lovers gathered in style at an \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/oakland\">Oakland\u003c/a> nightclub to close out the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13964180/bay-area-african-restaurant-week-nigerian-ethiopian-jollof-oakland\">first ever African Restaurant Week\u003c/a>. While the DJ spun AfroBeats, chefs and caterers representing various corners of the African diaspora passed out sizzling suya skewers and big heaping plates of jollof rice and whole grilled fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People loved it,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jollofkitchen/\">Jollof Kitchen’s\u003c/a> Kemi Tijaniqudus, who co-organized the event. “I loved that all kinds of people came just to taste the different foods. It wasn’t just Africans.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The annual celebration of African food returns to the Bay Area this week and will run from Sept. 12–21, kicking off with an opening night party at Parliament in Oakland on Sept. 12.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to a typical restaurant week, Bay Area African Restaurant Week features a lineup of 28 participating restaurants that will offer deals and special menu items over the course of the 10-day promotion. The list of participants is like a who’s who of diasporic African food in the Bay, running the gamut from decades-old neighborhood staples like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/redseaoakland/?hl=en\">Red Sea\u003c/a> in Oakland and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bissapbaobab/?hl=en\">Bissap Baobab\u003c/a> in the Mission, to splashy up-and-comers like Old Oakland’s Afro-Caribbean cocktail spot \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nosso.oak/?hl=en\">Nosso Bar\u003c/a> and Jack London Nigerian newcomer \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/9jagrills/?hl=en\">9jaGrills\u003c/a>. Most will give a 10% discount to customers who mention African Restaurant Week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The promotion launched last year as a collaboration between Tijaniqudus and Akin Akinsanya, founder of a New York–based company that puts on similar \u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/about-african-restaurant-week/\">African Restaurant Week\u003c/a> events all over the country. Tijaniqudus says when she came up with the idea for the event, her explicit goal was to shine a light on the tremendous diversity of African food in the Bay Area, where certain cuisines, like Nigerian food and Ethiopian food, have achieved a certain degree of mainstream popularity. But what about the cuisines of Zimbabwe or Gambia? What about Ghana or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13954267/tanzanian-restaurant-swahili-spot-west-oakland-curry\">Tanzania\u003c/a>? Tijanqudus’ dream was that Bay Area food enthusiasts would fall in love with those cuisines as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960583\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960583\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop.jpg\" alt=\"Customers eating jollof rice out of black plastic takeout containers.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/jollof-kitchen-crop-1536x1057.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers enjoying their orders of Jollof Kitchen’s Nigerian-style jollof rice. Owner Kemi Tijaniqudus is one of the co-organizers of Bay Area African Restaurant Week. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jollof Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The challenge, Tijanqudus explains, is that most of the Bay Area chefs specializing in those cuisines don’t have restaurants of their own, so they can’t really participate in a traditional restaurant week. The solution was to close out the event with a big African food festival — the aforementioned Oakland courtyard gathering, which has been expanded to two days this year, Sept. 20 and Sept. 21, at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fortheculture701/\">For the Culture \u003c/a>in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jason Wealth, a Ghanaian American who runs \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaybabas_kitchen/\">JayBaba’s Kitchen\u003c/a>, says he started his pop-up and catering company three years ago as a way to spread his love for Ghanaian cooking and to show how luxurious African food can be. He explains that the cuisine is similar to Nigerian food except a lot less spicy — but still packed with flavor. And despite Ghanaian food’s relatively low visibility in the Bay, Wealth says his stand was the most popular one at last year’s African Restaurant Week closing festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was the only person who had over 50 people waiting in line to get my food,” he says with evident pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest hits? His whole tilapia, which he and his team grilled over hot coals right there in the courtyard. At this year’s two-day festival, Wealth will bring the tilapia back, along with his waakye (a rice and bean dish) and Ghanaian-style jollof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981323\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981323\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia.jpg\" alt=\"Whole fish cooking over hot coals.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/jaybaba-tilapia-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole tilapia cooking over hot coals, courtesy of JayBaba’s Kitchen. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of JayBaba's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests who want to explore the Bay Area’s harder-to-find African cuisines can also check out the Sept. 12 kickoff party at Parliament, where Jollof Kitchen (Nigerian) will be joined by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tutifrutisbazaar/?hl=en\">Tuti Fruti’s Bazaar\u003c/a> (Gambian) and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/vumbamtskitchen/?hl=en\">Vumba Mts Kitchen\u003c/a> (Zimbabwean). All three vendors will be selling their food at the closing festival as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Both the opening and closing celebrations will be open to guests 21-years-old and up, since the venues are bars and nightclubs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tijaniqudus, who first made a name for herself as a two-time winner of the Bay Area \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13960580/jollof-festival-oakland-west-african-food-competition-nigerian-sierra-leone\">Jollof Festival\u003c/a>, says what she loves about African Restaurant Week is that there isn’t any sense of competition with the other vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We just want everybody to come represent,” she says. “This is more of an exhibit, just showing off what you have and introducing our cultures to other people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Bay Area African Restaurant Week will run from Sept. 12–21. You can view the current list of \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://africanrestaurantweek.com/bayarea/\">\u003ci>participating restaurants\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on the African Restaurant Week website. The kickoff party will be held on Friday, Sept. 12 from 6–10 p.m. at Parliament (811 Washington St., Oakland). The two-day \u003c/i>\u003ci>closing festival\u003c/i>\u003ci> will be held at For the Culture (701 Clay St., Oakland) on Saturday, Sept. 20 and Sunday, Sept. 21, from noon–6 p.m. Food and beverages will be sold a la carte. Note: Both the opening and closing events are ages 21+ only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Year’s Oakland Chinatown Night Market Will Be Even Bigger",
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"content": "\u003cp>Before last year’s inaugural Oakland Chinatown Night Market, community leaders had long dreamed of hosting a big, rollicking night market event — the sort of outdoor bash you’ll find in cities across Asia. Oakland Chinatown Improvement Council (OCIC) Executive Director Tony Trinh says the hardest part was getting the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a> shopkeepers and restaurant owners themselves to believe such a thing was possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of the merchants were very doubtful that we could pull off an event like that. Historically, Chinatown is a ghost town by like four o’clock,” Trinh says. When \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13892437/oaklanders-combat-chinatown-attacks-with-volunteering-mutual-aid\">fears of anti-Asian violence surged\u003c/a> during the COVID era, he explains, “Everybody was just too afraid to be out here.” As a result, only a couple of Chinatown restaurants set up booths at last year’s market. Most of the food vendors wound up coming from outside the neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In that sense, the inaugural event was a proof of concept — a test to see if Oakland Chinatown actually \u003ci>could \u003c/i>host a bustling night market. And it proved to be even more successful than Trinh and his team had dared to hope: 14,000 people poured into the streets of Chinatown on a Saturday night. Food vendors were completely sold out by 8 p.m. Even the restaurants that chose not to actively participate still benefited, reporting a 200% increase in revenue that night, Trinh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981226\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981226\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of people eating at outdoors tables in Chinatown at nighttime.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">About 14,000 people came to the 2024 night market, according to the Oakland Chinatown Improvement Council. \u003ccite>(Gianpaolo Pabros, courtesy of OCIC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s with bolstered confidence, then, that OCIC is running the event back this year. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.ocic-ca.org/2025-night-market\">second annual Oakland Chinatown Night Market\u003c/a> will take place this Saturday, Sept. 13, 5–10 p.m., bringing the neighborhood to life with a mix of street food, antique trinkets, sports and live music — this time with much more robust participation from businesses within Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Now the food vendors believe in us,” Trinh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of what that means is that many more restaurants will set up booths selling street food in front of their shops, including neighborhood staples like Alice Bakery and Shooting Star Cafe. Though one of last year’s core vendors, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13956218/late-night-taiwanese-beef-noodle-soup-stinky-tofu-oakland-chinatown\">Lounge Chinatown\u003c/a>, has since closed, its Jack London sister restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13918993/dragon-gate-oakland-taiwanese-restaurant-reopening-karaoke\">Dragon Gate\u003c/a>, will also have a booth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963258,arts_13974383']\u003c/span>This year’s featured food theme will be a “Taste of Chinatown,” highlighting the kind of classic dishes that are most emblematic of the neighborhood: chicken wings and spring rolls from New Gold Medal, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13974383/oakland-chinatown-new-gold-medal-late-night\">legendary late-night spot\u003c/a>, and a roast duck rice plate from newcomer Hay Yue. Both of those plates will be available at OCIC’s own booth at the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All told, there will be more than 20 food vendors. The layout of the event will be inspired by Hong Kong’s traditional night markets, with a mix of food and retail, including Chinese antique vendors from the Laney College Flea Market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981229\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981229\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131.jpg\" alt=\"A rapper viewed from behind as he performs in front of a large crowd in the streets of Oakland.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oakland rapper Seiji Oda performing at the 2024 Oakland Chinatown Night Market. \u003ccite>(Gianpaolo Pabros, courtesy of OCIC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This year’s night market will also have a car show, curated by Castro Valley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nakayamamotorsports/?hl=en\">Nakayama Motorsports\u003c/a>. And it will bring back the most popular elements from last year’s event, including a performance stage featuring live music and DJs. This year’s featured artists will include Oakland’s own “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957194/seiji-oda-bay-area-rap-lo-fi-minimalist-hyphy\">minimalist hyphy\u003c/a>” rapper Seiji Oda, up-and-coming R&B singer \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894289/pass-the-aux-new-tracks-by-kiyomi-beeda-weeda-tyler-holmes-kelly-mcfarling-and-more\">Kiyomi\u003c/a> and a traditional Cantonese cover band Midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also returning from last year: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DOPo8JUEZtv/?hl=en&img_index=1\">pan-Asian basketball tournament\u003c/a> at the Lincoln Square Park rec center starting at 1:30 p.m., with local squads representing China, Japan, Laos/Cambodia and the Philippines. Led by two popular streetball influencers, the Filipino squad took last year’s cup. But Trinh says the other teams have powered up with new recruits this year — they’ll be out for revenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981232\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981232\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95.jpg\" alt=\"On an outdoor basketball court, a Filipino American player scoops the ball toward the basket as two opponents look on.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Team Philippines (in the blue and gold shorts) beat out Team China at the 2024 ‘Asia Cup’ tournament. \u003ccite>(Gianpaolo Pabros, courtesy of OCIC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trinh says that he’s been to other night markets around Oakland, but this one will always feel “just a little more special.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It really showed a sense of community,” he says. “It was a lot of people coming out and just supporting because they know that Chinatown has dealt with so much.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ocic-ca.org/2025-night-market\">\u003ci>Oakland Chinatown Night Market \u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>will take place on Saturday, Sept. 13, 5–10 p.m. on 8th Street in Oakland, between Webster and Broadway.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Before last year’s inaugural Oakland Chinatown Night Market, community leaders had long dreamed of hosting a big, rollicking night market event — the sort of outdoor bash you’ll find in cities across Asia. Oakland Chinatown Improvement Council (OCIC) Executive Director Tony Trinh says the hardest part was getting the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a> shopkeepers and restaurant owners themselves to believe such a thing was possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of the merchants were very doubtful that we could pull off an event like that. Historically, Chinatown is a ghost town by like four o’clock,” Trinh says. When \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13892437/oaklanders-combat-chinatown-attacks-with-volunteering-mutual-aid\">fears of anti-Asian violence surged\u003c/a> during the COVID era, he explains, “Everybody was just too afraid to be out here.” As a result, only a couple of Chinatown restaurants set up booths at last year’s market. Most of the food vendors wound up coming from outside the neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In that sense, the inaugural event was a proof of concept — a test to see if Oakland Chinatown actually \u003ci>could \u003c/i>host a bustling night market. And it proved to be even more successful than Trinh and his team had dared to hope: 14,000 people poured into the streets of Chinatown on a Saturday night. Food vendors were completely sold out by 8 p.m. Even the restaurants that chose not to actively participate still benefited, reporting a 200% increase in revenue that night, Trinh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981226\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981226\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of people eating at outdoors tables in Chinatown at nighttime.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-150-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">About 14,000 people came to the 2024 night market, according to the Oakland Chinatown Improvement Council. \u003ccite>(Gianpaolo Pabros, courtesy of OCIC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s with bolstered confidence, then, that OCIC is running the event back this year. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.ocic-ca.org/2025-night-market\">second annual Oakland Chinatown Night Market\u003c/a> will take place this Saturday, Sept. 13, 5–10 p.m., bringing the neighborhood to life with a mix of street food, antique trinkets, sports and live music — this time with much more robust participation from businesses within Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Now the food vendors believe in us,” Trinh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of what that means is that many more restaurants will set up booths selling street food in front of their shops, including neighborhood staples like Alice Bakery and Shooting Star Cafe. Though one of last year’s core vendors, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13956218/late-night-taiwanese-beef-noodle-soup-stinky-tofu-oakland-chinatown\">Lounge Chinatown\u003c/a>, has since closed, its Jack London sister restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13918993/dragon-gate-oakland-taiwanese-restaurant-reopening-karaoke\">Dragon Gate\u003c/a>, will also have a booth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>This year’s featured food theme will be a “Taste of Chinatown,” highlighting the kind of classic dishes that are most emblematic of the neighborhood: chicken wings and spring rolls from New Gold Medal, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13974383/oakland-chinatown-new-gold-medal-late-night\">legendary late-night spot\u003c/a>, and a roast duck rice plate from newcomer Hay Yue. Both of those plates will be available at OCIC’s own booth at the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All told, there will be more than 20 food vendors. The layout of the event will be inspired by Hong Kong’s traditional night markets, with a mix of food and retail, including Chinese antique vendors from the Laney College Flea Market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981229\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981229\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131.jpg\" alt=\"A rapper viewed from behind as he performs in front of a large crowd in the streets of Oakland.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-131-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oakland rapper Seiji Oda performing at the 2024 Oakland Chinatown Night Market. \u003ccite>(Gianpaolo Pabros, courtesy of OCIC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This year’s night market will also have a car show, curated by Castro Valley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/nakayamamotorsports/?hl=en\">Nakayama Motorsports\u003c/a>. And it will bring back the most popular elements from last year’s event, including a performance stage featuring live music and DJs. This year’s featured artists will include Oakland’s own “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957194/seiji-oda-bay-area-rap-lo-fi-minimalist-hyphy\">minimalist hyphy\u003c/a>” rapper Seiji Oda, up-and-coming R&B singer \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894289/pass-the-aux-new-tracks-by-kiyomi-beeda-weeda-tyler-holmes-kelly-mcfarling-and-more\">Kiyomi\u003c/a> and a traditional Cantonese cover band Midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also returning from last year: a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DOPo8JUEZtv/?hl=en&img_index=1\">pan-Asian basketball tournament\u003c/a> at the Lincoln Square Park rec center starting at 1:30 p.m., with local squads representing China, Japan, Laos/Cambodia and the Philippines. Led by two popular streetball influencers, the Filipino squad took last year’s cup. But Trinh says the other teams have powered up with new recruits this year — they’ll be out for revenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981232\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981232\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95.jpg\" alt=\"On an outdoor basketball court, a Filipino American player scoops the ball toward the basket as two opponents look on.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95-160x128.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95-768x614.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/ocic_jeepeezee_final-95-1536x1229.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Team Philippines (in the blue and gold shorts) beat out Team China at the 2024 ‘Asia Cup’ tournament. \u003ccite>(Gianpaolo Pabros, courtesy of OCIC)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trinh says that he’s been to other night markets around Oakland, but this one will always feel “just a little more special.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It really showed a sense of community,” he says. “It was a lot of people coming out and just supporting because they know that Chinatown has dealt with so much.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ocic-ca.org/2025-night-market\">\u003ci>Oakland Chinatown Night Market \u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>will take place on Saturday, Sept. 13, 5–10 p.m. on 8th Street in Oakland, between Webster and Broadway.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "toyose-korean-chicken-garage-late-night-san-francisco",
"title": "SF’s Famous Chicken Garage Is a Late-Night Korean Classic",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981038\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981038\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Man devours stretchy cheesy corn while looking over a table crammed full of Korean pub food; his dining companion fills a mug with beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toyose is one of San Francisco’s most popular late-night restaurants, serving classic Korean pub food until 2 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a little past 9 on a recent Friday night, we pulled up to what mostly looked like an ordinary house in the Outer Sunset, a few blocks from Ocean Beach. An angry cartoon chicken, lit up like a beacon next to the unmarked garage door, was the only real indication that this was a restaurant — let alone the most famous \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/late-night\">late-night dining\u003c/a> spot in the neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as we stepped inside the converted garage restaurant, it was easy to see the charm. The dim, cramped dining room was vaguely reminiscent of the hold of an old-timey ship — ropes coiled around wooden beams, half-enebriated diners wobbling their way to the restroom, like they hadn’t quite gotten their sea legs yet. Every table had a big pitcher of Korean lager or a bottle of soju, and a mountainous spread of steaming hot dishes: fiery, gochujang-stained rice cakes; crispy chicken wings; and burbling stone cauldrons of kimchi and soybean paste soup — the kind of simple, satisfying meal you’d expect to find at a classic Korean soju pub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13980212,arts_13961328,arts_13973430']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Even though it was our first time at Toyose, I’d been hearing about the place for years, sometimes by name, or just as often as “the Korean chicken garage” or simply The Garage. Over the years, no other Korean restaurant in the city had been recommended to me more frequently or more enthusiastically — and almost always by non-Koreans. That sounds like shade, though I don’t mean it that way: As far as I can tell, Toyose and Dan Sung Sa (aka Porno Palace, in Oakland) were two of the first restaurants to bring the spicy, soju-and-OB-fueled pleasures of \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-pub-life-korean-style-1/\">Korean pub life\u003c/a> to the Bay Area mainstream in the early aughts. And if the diverse, jam-packed and \u003ci>extremely happy\u003c/i> dining room we encountered during our meal at Toyose was any indication, the restaurant’s popularity has simply extended far beyond its original niche audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is to say, Toyose belongs to all of San Francisco now. Or maybe it always has. And even after all these years, the restaurant is still cranking out huge portions of hot comfort food until 2 a.m. on the weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981039\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981039\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of Toyose restaurant at night. A sign with a cartoon bird is lit up next to an unmarked garage door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located just blocks away from Ocean Beach, the restaurant has been an Outer Sunset staple since 2001. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant doesn’t really have a signature dish, though popular standards like its kimchi fried rice and seafood pancakes each have their legion of loyalists, quick to proclaim Toyose’s version the best in the city. My personal list of must-order items starts with the whole fried chicken, or tongdak — an entire bird cut up into big, bone-in pieces and then deep-fried. This is the OG style of Korean fried chicken, predating today’s more ubiquitous sweet and spicy sauce-slathered versions (though it’s still a staple \u003ca href=\"https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/sijang-tongdak\">at traditional markets\u003c/a> in Korea). Toyose’s tongdak is a sight to behold — a mountain of fried chicken! — and comes to the table scorchingly hot, with a thin, extra-crispy batter that shatters when you take a bite. It’s especially delicious dipped into the little dish of pepper salt that comes on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toyose’s \u003ca href=\"https://496af86d-33ba-475e-bbdb-31e2a5abb6f7.filesusr.com/ugd/50518f_7d7113e602464ca1a01097eb9b493650.pdf\">menu\u003c/a> isn’t so different from what you’ll find at other soju bangs around the Bay, but the food comes out fast and it’s all solidly prepared — the stretchy, golden-brown cheese corn; the puffed-up steamed egg that tastes so juicy and savory spooned over white rice. We were especially fond of a spicy-sweet calamari stir-fry noodle dish, wherein the squid tentacle segments mirrored the thickness and bouncy chew of the accompanying udon noodles. And we were surprised by how rustic and homey the vegetable and seafood–laden doenjang (fermented soybean paste) stew was — a soothing counterpoint when everything else you’ve ordered is spicy or deep-fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really, though, where Toyose shines is in its atmosphere, which only gets more raucous and high-energy later into the night. If you want to have a quiet chat, you can grab one of the partitioned-off booths in front, which even have roll-down bamboo blinds for extra privacy. But the whole back of the restaurant \u003ci>feels\u003c/i> like you’re packed inside a friend’s crowded basement or garage, all the tables jammed right next to each other, the volume of everyone’s collective conversations loud enough that you need to raise your voice to be heard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time we left, at around 11, every table was filled. And while it’s true that the diners at the table nearest to us didn’t appear to be Korean, or even Asian American, they’d done admirable work on a big pot of budae jjigae and a plate of spicy stir-fried pork. They, too, were having a good night.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/toyose_sf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Toyose\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sunday through Thursday, 6 p.m.–midnight, and Fridays and Saturdays 6 p.m.–2 a.m., at 3814 Noriega St. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981038\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981038\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Man devours stretchy cheesy corn while looking over a table crammed full of Korean pub food; his dining companion fills a mug with beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toyose is one of San Francisco’s most popular late-night restaurants, serving classic Korean pub food until 2 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a little past 9 on a recent Friday night, we pulled up to what mostly looked like an ordinary house in the Outer Sunset, a few blocks from Ocean Beach. An angry cartoon chicken, lit up like a beacon next to the unmarked garage door, was the only real indication that this was a restaurant — let alone the most famous \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/late-night\">late-night dining\u003c/a> spot in the neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as we stepped inside the converted garage restaurant, it was easy to see the charm. The dim, cramped dining room was vaguely reminiscent of the hold of an old-timey ship — ropes coiled around wooden beams, half-enebriated diners wobbling their way to the restroom, like they hadn’t quite gotten their sea legs yet. Every table had a big pitcher of Korean lager or a bottle of soju, and a mountainous spread of steaming hot dishes: fiery, gochujang-stained rice cakes; crispy chicken wings; and burbling stone cauldrons of kimchi and soybean paste soup — the kind of simple, satisfying meal you’d expect to find at a classic Korean soju pub.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Even though it was our first time at Toyose, I’d been hearing about the place for years, sometimes by name, or just as often as “the Korean chicken garage” or simply The Garage. Over the years, no other Korean restaurant in the city had been recommended to me more frequently or more enthusiastically — and almost always by non-Koreans. That sounds like shade, though I don’t mean it that way: As far as I can tell, Toyose and Dan Sung Sa (aka Porno Palace, in Oakland) were two of the first restaurants to bring the spicy, soju-and-OB-fueled pleasures of \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-pub-life-korean-style-1/\">Korean pub life\u003c/a> to the Bay Area mainstream in the early aughts. And if the diverse, jam-packed and \u003ci>extremely happy\u003c/i> dining room we encountered during our meal at Toyose was any indication, the restaurant’s popularity has simply extended far beyond its original niche audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is to say, Toyose belongs to all of San Francisco now. Or maybe it always has. And even after all these years, the restaurant is still cranking out huge portions of hot comfort food until 2 a.m. on the weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13981039\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13981039\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of Toyose restaurant at night. A sign with a cartoon bird is lit up next to an unmarked garage door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/09/Toyose-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Located just blocks away from Ocean Beach, the restaurant has been an Outer Sunset staple since 2001. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant doesn’t really have a signature dish, though popular standards like its kimchi fried rice and seafood pancakes each have their legion of loyalists, quick to proclaim Toyose’s version the best in the city. My personal list of must-order items starts with the whole fried chicken, or tongdak — an entire bird cut up into big, bone-in pieces and then deep-fried. This is the OG style of Korean fried chicken, predating today’s more ubiquitous sweet and spicy sauce-slathered versions (though it’s still a staple \u003ca href=\"https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/sijang-tongdak\">at traditional markets\u003c/a> in Korea). Toyose’s tongdak is a sight to behold — a mountain of fried chicken! — and comes to the table scorchingly hot, with a thin, extra-crispy batter that shatters when you take a bite. It’s especially delicious dipped into the little dish of pepper salt that comes on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toyose’s \u003ca href=\"https://496af86d-33ba-475e-bbdb-31e2a5abb6f7.filesusr.com/ugd/50518f_7d7113e602464ca1a01097eb9b493650.pdf\">menu\u003c/a> isn’t so different from what you’ll find at other soju bangs around the Bay, but the food comes out fast and it’s all solidly prepared — the stretchy, golden-brown cheese corn; the puffed-up steamed egg that tastes so juicy and savory spooned over white rice. We were especially fond of a spicy-sweet calamari stir-fry noodle dish, wherein the squid tentacle segments mirrored the thickness and bouncy chew of the accompanying udon noodles. And we were surprised by how rustic and homey the vegetable and seafood–laden doenjang (fermented soybean paste) stew was — a soothing counterpoint when everything else you’ve ordered is spicy or deep-fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really, though, where Toyose shines is in its atmosphere, which only gets more raucous and high-energy later into the night. If you want to have a quiet chat, you can grab one of the partitioned-off booths in front, which even have roll-down bamboo blinds for extra privacy. But the whole back of the restaurant \u003ci>feels\u003c/i> like you’re packed inside a friend’s crowded basement or garage, all the tables jammed right next to each other, the volume of everyone’s collective conversations loud enough that you need to raise your voice to be heard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time we left, at around 11, every table was filled. And while it’s true that the diners at the table nearest to us didn’t appear to be Korean, or even Asian American, they’d done admirable work on a big pot of budae jjigae and a plate of spicy stir-fried pork. They, too, were having a good night.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/toyose_sf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Toyose\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Sunday through Thursday, 6 p.m.–midnight, and Fridays and Saturdays 6 p.m.–2 a.m., at 3814 Noriega St. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "wah-jee-wah-indian-bbq-closed-hayward-fremont-milpitas",
"title": "The East Bay’s Most Famous Indian Barbecue Spot Has Closed — For Now",
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"content": "\u003cp>For the past four years, Wah Jee Wah has tantalized street food lovers with its open-fire, charcoal-grilled Indian \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/barbecue\">barbecue\u003c/a> — a rarity in the Bay Area. On busy summer nights, crowds would line up outside the low-slung Hayward restaurant as chef-owner Ron Dumra and his team grilled yogurt-marinated chicken and sizzling lamb seekh kebabs over hot coals. Diners devoured the skewers in a haze of smoke at the picnic tables outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Wah Jee Wah fans will have to travel elsewhere to get their Indian barbecue fix: The Hayward restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DNv-wYhZCbz/\">closed earlier this month\u003c/a> after the landlord nearly tripled the rent. Now Dumra is looking to relocate the restaurant, and he says he already has tentative plans in place to open a smaller, takeout-oriented kitchen in Milpitas, a regular pop-up in Fremont and, eventually, a new flagship location closer to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s not the end,” Dumra says of his business. “It’s a new beginning.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reached by phone, Dumra explained that he was forced to close the Hayward location after the landlord increased the rent from $4,000 to more than $11,000 a month after factoring in maintenance and other fees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Dumra, that large of an increase just didn’t seem reasonable. In particular, he noted that because Wah Jee Wah is an outdoor barbecue restaurant, business tends to be very slow during the winter months. What’s more, Dumra’s father passed away last year, and he’d had to pay a lot of expenses related to that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Dumra says, “We couldn’t afford to pay that much.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980838\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1336px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980838\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron.jpg\" alt=\"A chef grilling meat skewers outdoors while a crowd looks on.\" width=\"1336\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron.jpg 1336w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron-768x1150.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron-1026x1536.jpg 1026w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1336px) 100vw, 1336px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef-owner Ron Dumra tends the grill during a past pop-up event. \u003ccite>(Jordan Foster, courtesy of Wah Jee Wah)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, it appears that longtime Wah Jee Wah customers won’t have to wait long for the next iteration of the business to emerge. Dumra already has one recurring \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DN4MgC5gTCl/\">Thursday night pop-up\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/californiacraftbeer/?hl=en\">California Craft Beer\u003c/a>, a brewpub in Fremont. Starting as early as mid-September, he expects to launch another pop-up at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bayarea.chowpatti/\">Chowpatti food truck park\u003c/a>, also in Fremont, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963258,arts_13980212,arts_13962220']\u003c/span>Meanwhile, Dumra has a tentative deal in place to open a small, takeout-oriented restaurant in Milpitas that he hopes to have up and running by no later than November. And Dumra says he’s in talks to open a larger flagship restaurant, with both indoor and outdoor seating, at a location in South San Francisco. If it works out, the new restaurant would require an extensive build-out and wouldn’t likely be ready to open until sometime later next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The important thing, Dumra says, is to find a spot where he can grill outdoors over a live fire just like he did in Hayward — like he’s been doing since he was a seven-year-old kid helping out at his father’s restaurant in Fremont.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think it’s part of our culture — it’s just the way we cook,” Dumra says. “I don’t even own a gas grill, and I don’t think I ever will.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Wah Jee Wah currently pops up at California Craft Beer (43377 Mission Blvd., Fremont) on Thursday nights, 5:30–9 p.m. For updates on other pop-ups and reopening plans, follow the restaurant \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wahjeewah/\">\u003ci>on Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For the past four years, Wah Jee Wah has tantalized street food lovers with its open-fire, charcoal-grilled Indian \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/barbecue\">barbecue\u003c/a> — a rarity in the Bay Area. On busy summer nights, crowds would line up outside the low-slung Hayward restaurant as chef-owner Ron Dumra and his team grilled yogurt-marinated chicken and sizzling lamb seekh kebabs over hot coals. Diners devoured the skewers in a haze of smoke at the picnic tables outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Wah Jee Wah fans will have to travel elsewhere to get their Indian barbecue fix: The Hayward restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DNv-wYhZCbz/\">closed earlier this month\u003c/a> after the landlord nearly tripled the rent. Now Dumra is looking to relocate the restaurant, and he says he already has tentative plans in place to open a smaller, takeout-oriented kitchen in Milpitas, a regular pop-up in Fremont and, eventually, a new flagship location closer to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s not the end,” Dumra says of his business. “It’s a new beginning.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reached by phone, Dumra explained that he was forced to close the Hayward location after the landlord increased the rent from $4,000 to more than $11,000 a month after factoring in maintenance and other fees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Dumra, that large of an increase just didn’t seem reasonable. In particular, he noted that because Wah Jee Wah is an outdoor barbecue restaurant, business tends to be very slow during the winter months. What’s more, Dumra’s father passed away last year, and he’d had to pay a lot of expenses related to that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Dumra says, “We couldn’t afford to pay that much.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980838\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1336px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980838\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron.jpg\" alt=\"A chef grilling meat skewers outdoors while a crowd looks on.\" width=\"1336\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron.jpg 1336w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron-768x1150.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/wah-jee-wah_ron-1026x1536.jpg 1026w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1336px) 100vw, 1336px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef-owner Ron Dumra tends the grill during a past pop-up event. \u003ccite>(Jordan Foster, courtesy of Wah Jee Wah)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, it appears that longtime Wah Jee Wah customers won’t have to wait long for the next iteration of the business to emerge. Dumra already has one recurring \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DN4MgC5gTCl/\">Thursday night pop-up\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/californiacraftbeer/?hl=en\">California Craft Beer\u003c/a>, a brewpub in Fremont. Starting as early as mid-September, he expects to launch another pop-up at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bayarea.chowpatti/\">Chowpatti food truck park\u003c/a>, also in Fremont, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Meanwhile, Dumra has a tentative deal in place to open a small, takeout-oriented restaurant in Milpitas that he hopes to have up and running by no later than November. And Dumra says he’s in talks to open a larger flagship restaurant, with both indoor and outdoor seating, at a location in South San Francisco. If it works out, the new restaurant would require an extensive build-out and wouldn’t likely be ready to open until sometime later next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The important thing, Dumra says, is to find a spot where he can grill outdoors over a live fire just like he did in Hayward — like he’s been doing since he was a seven-year-old kid helping out at his father’s restaurant in Fremont.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think it’s part of our culture — it’s just the way we cook,” Dumra says. “I don’t even own a gas grill, and I don’t think I ever will.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Wah Jee Wah currently pops up at California Craft Beer (43377 Mission Blvd., Fremont) on Thursday nights, 5:30–9 p.m. For updates on other pop-ups and reopening plans, follow the restaurant \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wahjeewah/\">\u003ci>on Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "598-guerrero-san-francisco-restaurant-curse-mission-history-handroll-project-als-yuzuki-ebb-craigs",
"title": "We Just Figured Out Why 598 Guerrero Is the Most Cursed Restaurant Location in SF",
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"headTitle": "We Just Figured Out Why 598 Guerrero Is the Most Cursed Restaurant Location in SF | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>This week, yet another restaurant boldly moved into 598 Guerrero St. in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, despite the Mission District location’s many years of proving how cursed it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of \u003ca href=\"https://www.handrollproject.com/\">Handroll Project\u003c/a>, the location’s most recent tenant, will reopen the restaurant as Hamburger Project Two — a second location for \u003ca href=\"https://www.hamburgerproject.com/\">the burger spot at 808 Divisadero\u003c/a>. Handroll Project took over the high-ceilinged space on the corner of 18th Street in 2022 and survived just over three years, having taken over from \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/als-deli-san-francisco\">AL’s Deli\u003c/a>, which soldiered on there for just eight months until March 2020. (At the time of that departure, owner \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/3/10/21173569/als-deli-aaron-london-mission-closed\">Aaron London told Eater\u003c/a>, “It just never really hit the mass appeal to make that model make sense.”)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13976828']Remarkably, AL’s Deli wasn’t even the shortest-lived restaurant to occupy 598 Guerrero. That honor belongs to \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ebb-and-flow-san-francisco\">Ebb & Flow\u003c/a>, which lasted just six months in 2010. Before that, \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/craigs-place-san-francisco\">Craig’s Place\u003c/a> served diner food between 2007 and 2008. The location’s longest restaurant success story was \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swCTYmTmq2U\">Izakaya Yuzuki\u003c/a>, which endured from 2011 to 2019.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer number of restaurants that have tried and failed to make this spot work belies good sense. Situated opposite \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/tartine\">Tartine\u003c/a>’s always bustling original location, and a short walk from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/delfina\">Delfina\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/bi-rite-market\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> and other popular neighborhood spots, the repeated failures at 598 Guerrero have been perplexing. (Just a few doors down, \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/fayes-san-francisco\">Faye’s\u003c/a> has been going strong since 1998.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Handroll Project was a usually busy sushi joint that I believed would break the spell. I wasn’t the first to think a restaurant could actually survive there. Writing about Izakaya Yuzuki for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> in 2017, Chris Ying remained idealistic: “It turns out there are no cursed restaurants. It comes down to the right idea taking root, and, when something great begins to grow from it, diners nurturing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Izakaya Yuzuki was gone two years later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what exactly \u003cem>is\u003c/em> wrong with 598 Guerrero? While claims of a curse have long been pooh-poohed by skeptics (and optimistic new tenants), the answer might be just as strange as rumored.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A paranormal property\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>It turns out that, all the way back in 1889, 598 Guerrero was occupied by a “trance medium” and fortune teller by the name of Mrs. C. Mayo-Steers. Mayo-Steers held healing circles (“skeptics invited”), “psychometric readings,” “psychic delineations,” and claimed to provide “diagnosis of diseases.” For at least 15 years, Mayo-Steers operated out of locations all over San Francisco — Turk, Market, Oak, Grove, 24th and 17th Streets included — but 598 Guerrero was where she communed with spirits in daily “sittings,” at least for a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a member of the Progressive Mediums’ Society, Mayo-Steers was well known in Victorian San Francisco’s spookier society corners, once speaking at a meeting for Progressive Spiritualists in 1889 and appearing at the State Spiritualist Convention of 1896. In a 1903 edition of \u003cem>Now\u003c/em> — a journal “devoted to the science and art of soul culture” — the editor wrote that “among the Spiritualists, our friend … Mrs. C. Mayo-Steers [has] resumed work in the city. In work along New Thought and psychic lines, our city is wide awake.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13919589']If in fact Mayo-Steers turned 598 Guerrero into a psychic hotspot, that could explain what happened there in 2022, shortly after Handroll Project moved in. At the time, Eater reported that staff members \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/10/17/23403425/handroll-project-san-francisco-haunted\">believed there was paranormal activity\u003c/a> at the restaurant. Lights were said to inexplicably flicker on and off, and containers seemed to fly across the room on their own volition. One employee even claimed to see a long-haired apparition in the basement break room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s just too crazy,” restaurant partner Geoffrey Lee said at the time. “Customers have been saying the veil between the living and the dead is very thin right now because of Halloween and Dia De Los Muertos and I’m like, ‘I’m not trying to hear that stuff.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some observers at the time attributed the paranormal activity to an incident in 2003, just three months after Central American bistro \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/platanos-san-francisco\">Platanos\u003c/a> had moved into 598 Guerrero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After leaving work late one night, Platanos’ executive chef Carlos Perez got into an altercation and died on Valencia near 22nd. The fight reportedly started over the volume of Perez’s car stereo. According to a report in the \u003cem>San Francisco Examiner\u003c/em> that February, police considered the death a result of self-defense. However, Platanos’ co-owner Lisa Lazarus told the newspaper, “I just saw him in the casket [and] this was not a guy hit with a couple of blows and then stopped breathing … He was beaten to death.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lazarus sold Platanos to a new owner, Pascal Rigo, in September 2005. Nine months later, the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>’s Michael Bauer wrote: “The food has now taken an even more delectable turn, and customers are returning.” Within a year, Platanos was gone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980643\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980643\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero.jpg\" alt=\"A black and white photograph of a 1930s-era streetcar traveling along a residential street in San Francisco.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1176\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero-160x94.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero-768x452.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero-1536x903.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The corner of Guerrero and 18th in December 1939. On the left, out of frame, would be 958 Guerrero. The photographer probably left it out lest their camera burst into flames. \u003ccite>(OpenSFHistory/wnp14.1438)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Raided by federal agents\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>So what was at 598 Guerrero between the psychic lady and the failed restaurants? Well, a speakeasy, for one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The building’s post-1906 earthquake iteration arrived in about 1909, when it appeared for sale in the \u003cem>San Francisco Examiner\u003c/em>’s “City Real Estate” classifieds as a “clean, level lot 25 x 80” complete with “gas, water, sewer.” By 1920, the address was an entertainment venue under the proprietorship of a J. Hoegeman. That year, Hoegeman advertised the availability of a beverage at his joint called New Crow, marketed as “the California drink that makes YOU FORGET prohibition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='arts_13881990']Clearly, New Crow did not achieve its stated goal. On Sept. 29, 1922, 598 Guerrero was raided by federal prohibition agents who hit venues all over the Mission that night. The speakeasy was forcibly closed for violating alcohol laws, and its operators at the time, Peter Jacobs and Jack Warren — as well as building owner Ellen Boardman — were charged in abatement suits by Assistant United States Attorney Garton D. Keystone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shortly after prohibition hammered 598 Guerrero’s doors closed, the building transformed into a pharmacy — Dunnigan’s in the ’20s and ’30s, and Mission Prescription Pharmacy in the ’50s and ’60s. In the 1970s, the location became a produce store that wound up listed for sale in the \u003cem>Examiner\u003c/em>’s “Business Offers” in 1982. It was, the ad noted, “priced to sell.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever happens to Hamburger Project Two, you have to admire the devil-may-care confidence to stay at 598 Guerrero. May the ghost of Mrs. C. Mayo-Steers enjoy smash burgers and loaded fries as much as the rest of us.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Project Handroll is the latest casualty of the corner spot — one with a history of murder, mediums and ghosts.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This week, yet another restaurant boldly moved into 598 Guerrero St. in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, despite the Mission District location’s many years of proving how cursed it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners of \u003ca href=\"https://www.handrollproject.com/\">Handroll Project\u003c/a>, the location’s most recent tenant, will reopen the restaurant as Hamburger Project Two — a second location for \u003ca href=\"https://www.hamburgerproject.com/\">the burger spot at 808 Divisadero\u003c/a>. Handroll Project took over the high-ceilinged space on the corner of 18th Street in 2022 and survived just over three years, having taken over from \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/als-deli-san-francisco\">AL’s Deli\u003c/a>, which soldiered on there for just eight months until March 2020. (At the time of that departure, owner \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/3/10/21173569/als-deli-aaron-london-mission-closed\">Aaron London told Eater\u003c/a>, “It just never really hit the mass appeal to make that model make sense.”)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Remarkably, AL’s Deli wasn’t even the shortest-lived restaurant to occupy 598 Guerrero. That honor belongs to \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ebb-and-flow-san-francisco\">Ebb & Flow\u003c/a>, which lasted just six months in 2010. Before that, \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/craigs-place-san-francisco\">Craig’s Place\u003c/a> served diner food between 2007 and 2008. The location’s longest restaurant success story was \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swCTYmTmq2U\">Izakaya Yuzuki\u003c/a>, which endured from 2011 to 2019.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer number of restaurants that have tried and failed to make this spot work belies good sense. Situated opposite \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/tartine\">Tartine\u003c/a>’s always bustling original location, and a short walk from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/delfina\">Delfina\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/bi-rite-market\">Bi-Rite\u003c/a> and other popular neighborhood spots, the repeated failures at 598 Guerrero have been perplexing. (Just a few doors down, \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/fayes-san-francisco\">Faye’s\u003c/a> has been going strong since 1998.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Handroll Project was a usually busy sushi joint that I believed would break the spell. I wasn’t the first to think a restaurant could actually survive there. Writing about Izakaya Yuzuki for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> in 2017, Chris Ying remained idealistic: “It turns out there are no cursed restaurants. It comes down to the right idea taking root, and, when something great begins to grow from it, diners nurturing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Izakaya Yuzuki was gone two years later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what exactly \u003cem>is\u003c/em> wrong with 598 Guerrero? While claims of a curse have long been pooh-poohed by skeptics (and optimistic new tenants), the answer might be just as strange as rumored.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A paranormal property\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>It turns out that, all the way back in 1889, 598 Guerrero was occupied by a “trance medium” and fortune teller by the name of Mrs. C. Mayo-Steers. Mayo-Steers held healing circles (“skeptics invited”), “psychometric readings,” “psychic delineations,” and claimed to provide “diagnosis of diseases.” For at least 15 years, Mayo-Steers operated out of locations all over San Francisco — Turk, Market, Oak, Grove, 24th and 17th Streets included — but 598 Guerrero was where she communed with spirits in daily “sittings,” at least for a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a member of the Progressive Mediums’ Society, Mayo-Steers was well known in Victorian San Francisco’s spookier society corners, once speaking at a meeting for Progressive Spiritualists in 1889 and appearing at the State Spiritualist Convention of 1896. In a 1903 edition of \u003cem>Now\u003c/em> — a journal “devoted to the science and art of soul culture” — the editor wrote that “among the Spiritualists, our friend … Mrs. C. Mayo-Steers [has] resumed work in the city. In work along New Thought and psychic lines, our city is wide awake.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>If in fact Mayo-Steers turned 598 Guerrero into a psychic hotspot, that could explain what happened there in 2022, shortly after Handroll Project moved in. At the time, Eater reported that staff members \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/10/17/23403425/handroll-project-san-francisco-haunted\">believed there was paranormal activity\u003c/a> at the restaurant. Lights were said to inexplicably flicker on and off, and containers seemed to fly across the room on their own volition. One employee even claimed to see a long-haired apparition in the basement break room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s just too crazy,” restaurant partner Geoffrey Lee said at the time. “Customers have been saying the veil between the living and the dead is very thin right now because of Halloween and Dia De Los Muertos and I’m like, ‘I’m not trying to hear that stuff.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some observers at the time attributed the paranormal activity to an incident in 2003, just three months after Central American bistro \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/platanos-san-francisco\">Platanos\u003c/a> had moved into 598 Guerrero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After leaving work late one night, Platanos’ executive chef Carlos Perez got into an altercation and died on Valencia near 22nd. The fight reportedly started over the volume of Perez’s car stereo. According to a report in the \u003cem>San Francisco Examiner\u003c/em> that February, police considered the death a result of self-defense. However, Platanos’ co-owner Lisa Lazarus told the newspaper, “I just saw him in the casket [and] this was not a guy hit with a couple of blows and then stopped breathing … He was beaten to death.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lazarus sold Platanos to a new owner, Pascal Rigo, in September 2005. Nine months later, the \u003cem>Chronicle\u003c/em>’s Michael Bauer wrote: “The food has now taken an even more delectable turn, and customers are returning.” Within a year, Platanos was gone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980643\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980643\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero.jpg\" alt=\"A black and white photograph of a 1930s-era streetcar traveling along a residential street in San Francisco.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1176\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero-160x94.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero-768x452.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/18th-and-guerrero-1536x903.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The corner of Guerrero and 18th in December 1939. On the left, out of frame, would be 958 Guerrero. The photographer probably left it out lest their camera burst into flames. \u003ccite>(OpenSFHistory/wnp14.1438)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Raided by federal agents\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>So what was at 598 Guerrero between the psychic lady and the failed restaurants? Well, a speakeasy, for one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The building’s post-1906 earthquake iteration arrived in about 1909, when it appeared for sale in the \u003cem>San Francisco Examiner\u003c/em>’s “City Real Estate” classifieds as a “clean, level lot 25 x 80” complete with “gas, water, sewer.” By 1920, the address was an entertainment venue under the proprietorship of a J. Hoegeman. That year, Hoegeman advertised the availability of a beverage at his joint called New Crow, marketed as “the California drink that makes YOU FORGET prohibition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Clearly, New Crow did not achieve its stated goal. On Sept. 29, 1922, 598 Guerrero was raided by federal prohibition agents who hit venues all over the Mission that night. The speakeasy was forcibly closed for violating alcohol laws, and its operators at the time, Peter Jacobs and Jack Warren — as well as building owner Ellen Boardman — were charged in abatement suits by Assistant United States Attorney Garton D. Keystone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shortly after prohibition hammered 598 Guerrero’s doors closed, the building transformed into a pharmacy — Dunnigan’s in the ’20s and ’30s, and Mission Prescription Pharmacy in the ’50s and ’60s. In the 1970s, the location became a produce store that wound up listed for sale in the \u003cem>Examiner\u003c/em>’s “Business Offers” in 1982. It was, the ad noted, “priced to sell.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever happens to Hamburger Project Two, you have to admire the devil-may-care confidence to stay at 598 Guerrero. May the ghost of Mrs. C. Mayo-Steers enjoy smash burgers and loaded fries as much as the rest of us.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "contra-costa-county-fruit-rescue-gleaning-picking-pears-apples-peaches-volunteer",
"title": "Meet the Scrappy Volunteers Rescuing Fruit From Your Backyard",
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"content": "\u003cp>It was around 9 p.m. on a recent Sunday when the four-alarm email came through: A large number of volunteers were needed in Brentwood first thing Wednesday morning to harvest 80 peach trees — ideally before all of the lovely, softball-sized fruit dropped to the ground and went to waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With apologies for the short notice, the email asked, might I be able to help?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are the kinds of messages that pop into your inbox when you join \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/\">Contra Costa Fruit Rescue\u003c/a>’s scrappy band of volunteer fruit pickers. The volunteers harvest surplus cherries, peaches, apples and pears — whatever’s in season — from backyard orchards throughout Contra Costa County, donating the rescued fruit to local food pantries and soup kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fruit Rescue is just one of a handful of fruit gleaning operations overseen by the Castro Valley–based nonprofit ForestR, which runs similar programs in \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/solano-gleans/\">Dixon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/gleaning/\">Castro Valley\u003c/a>. And while a peach emergency might not seem like the \u003ci>most\u003c/i> pressing matter during this era of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12052452/you-cant-trust-anyone-in-oakland-fear-of-ice-raids-grips-day-laborers\">ICE raids\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12032030/uc-berkeley-faculty-rally-to-defend-free-speech-and-protest-cuts\">free speech crackdowns\u003c/a>, the group’s efforts are making a real impact. So far in 2025, in Contra Costa County alone, Fruit Rescue has harvested and donated more than 75,000 pounds of usable fruit that would have otherwise gone to waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those donations are even more crucial now, with the country teetering on the \u003ca href=\"https://fortune.com/2025/08/22/recession-warning-economic-outlook-trump-tariffs-inflation-immigration-crackdown-zandi/\">brink of a recession\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/bayarea/article/food-bank-trump-usda-cuts-20265038.php\">food insecurity on the rise\u003c/a>. Program lead Pat Schultz says the food banks she works with have seen their budgets slashed by a quarter or more, the result of \u003ca href=\"http://banks\">funding cuts by both the Trump administration and the state of California\u003c/a>. Meanwhile, the number of people who need food assistance \u003ca href=\"https://calmatters.org/california-divide/2023/12/food-insecurity-california/\">has only gone up\u003c/a> since the height of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980091\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980091\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Two women in matching green Fruit Rescue T-shirts stand in a pear orchard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ForestR CEO Nimone Li-Hardisty (left) and Pat Schultz, program lead and Lamorinda area harvest leader, stop at their first location of the morning — a Martinez home registered for “gleaning,” the practice of harvesting excess crops to donate to food partners. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Especially with the high cost that we have in the Bay Area, it’s easy to go from ‘everything is fine’ to ‘I’m on the street or food insecure.’ Most people are one month away from disaster,” Schultz says. “The need for this type of work is only increasing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even apart from the altruistic aspect of the work, Fruit Rescue’s gleaning events — which are open to anyone who signs up through the group’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/o/fruit-rescue-57801496893\">Eventbrite page\u003c/a> — are a fun, family-friendly way to spend a morning. The aforementioned peach-picking session didn’t wind up happening (backyard fruit can be a fickle enterprise), but my nine-year-old daughter and I drove out to Martinez’s Alhambra Valley on an impossibly clear-skied Tuesday morning to harvest about a dozen Bartlett pear trees in a tidy, picturesque frontyard orchard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980089\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980089\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"People picking pears from trees in an orchard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Volunteers harvest pears in the frontyard orchard. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Amber Martinez, who heads up Fruit Rescue’s Martinez gleaning events, showed us how to use long, lacrosse-stick-like fruit-picker poles to nudge the ripe pears off the tree branches and gave a quick rundown of dos and don’ts. (DON’T climb the trees. DO place squishy, rotten pears into blue buckets so they can be composted later.) Working alongside seven or eight other volunteers — mostly affable retirees for this midweek session — we picked the trees clean in about an hour and a half, ready to move on to the next harvest site.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an added bonus? The pears were so plentiful that each volunteer wound up taking home a bagful for themselves — including fruit with slight imperfections that many food pantries can’t accept.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980090\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980090\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Crates of pears loaded into the truck of a car.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A volunteer’s vehicle filled with crates of fruit, snacks and tools. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nancy Hobart, the homeowner, says she’s had fruit gleaners come harvest the pear and Fuyu persimmon trees on her property for the past 15 years because she hates to see food going to waste. Fruit Rescue has been the most reliable of these services. “They’re so professional,” she says. “There’s hardly a leaf left out in the orchard.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nimone Li-Hardisty says she and her husband, Yonaton Hardisty, founded ForestR — the nonprofit that operates Fruit Rescue — shortly after a conversation with their then-teenage children, who told them they weren’t planning on ever having kids of their own. “The world is burning,” Li-Hardisty recalls her children saying. “You guys messed it up.” Today, she remembers that conversation as an “oh shit” moment that made her want to be proactive about improving the planet. “We don’t want our kids to have to be on Mars,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Li-Hardisty explains it, ForestR takes a highly localized, three-pronged approach to environmental beautification that includes cleaning (mainly of a stretch of highway in Castro Valley), greening (e.g. through planting trees and creating small “\u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/pocket-parks/\">pocket parks\u003c/a>”) \u003ci>and \u003c/i>gleaning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980084\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980084\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman reaches up into a tree with a fruit-picking tool.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Li-Hardisty leans in to pick a pear. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Schultz, the Contra Costa Fruit Rescue lead, joined forces with ForestR in 2022 to revive the gleaning program she’d been involved in for about a decade but had shut down during the pandemic. A retired music teacher, Schultz says her interest in food rescue stems from her Depression-era parents, who taught her that wasting food was not okay. “They were the original recyclers,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, Schultz says interest in this kind of work accelerated during the pandemic, which “made people far more aware of food,” she says. Suddenly, in affluent parts of Contra Costa County like Lafayette, where Schultz lives, “You had to stand in line [at the grocery store,] and you may or may not get what you want.” Many people started gardening during that time, getting in touch with their yards in a deeper way — and they wanted to make sure the food they grew wouldn’t go to waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The upshot is that more and more people have \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/fruit-rescue-tree-donors/\">reached out to Fruit Rescue\u003c/a> to have their fruit trees gleaned. And it isn’t primarily folks like Hobart who have mini-orchards, essentially, in their yard, Schultz stresses. Most of the people who participate in the program only have one or two trees. “But one apple tree can easily yield 200 to 300 pounds,” she says. “One grapefruit tree can be 400 pounds.” In fact, Schultz says there’s one elderly gentleman who calls her every year about his apple tree, which only yields 10 pounds of apples — “but for him, it’s critical that this fruit not go to waste.” Schultz goes by herself each year to personally harvest his tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980088\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980088\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in work gloves holding pears.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aurora, a volunteer with Contra Costa Fruit Rescue for four years, holds pears that she harvested. She says cherry season is her favorite time to pick. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruit Rescue isn’t unique. A handful of similar organizations operate around the Bay Area, like \u003ca href=\"https://www.villageharvest.org/\">Village Harvest\u003c/a>, which is mostly based in the South Bay and Peninsula, and \u003ca href=\"https://urbantilth.org/grow/orchard-for-all/\">Urban Tilth\u003c/a>, which oversees a network of small backyard orchards in Richmond. But these gleaning programs aren’t exactly super-common either, which is why Schultz hopes fruit lovers in other cities might be inspired to replicate Fruit Rescue and ForestR’s model.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13976236,arts_13966665,news_12036573']\u003c/span>My own Tuesday morning fruit expedition ended at another backyard orchard in Martinez. There, a single large apple tree had at least three different varieties of apples grafted onto it, including a crop of Pink Ladies that were wonderfully crisp and tart straight off the tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final tally for a couple of hours of work? 974 pounds of apples and pears, all donated to Concord’s \u003ca href=\"https://whiteponyexpress.org/\">White Pony Express\u003c/a>, whose food rescue program distributes the surplus fruit to food pantries and other nonprofit service providers across the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, Schultz says, the bottom-line goal is simple: “To get the fruit and then get it to someone who can use it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/contracosta_fruitrescue/\">\u003ci>Contra Costa Fruit Rescue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> posts upcoming gleaning events on its \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/\">\u003ci>website\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/o/fruit-rescue-57801496893\">\u003ci>Eventbrite page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Right now, mostly pears and apples are being harvested, including events in Walnut Creek and on Bethel Island on Saturday, Aug. 30, and one in Lamorinda on Sunday, Aug. 31. On Saturday, Sept. 6, Fruit Rescue will harvest several backyard orchards in the Pleasanton/San Ramon/Danville area. Fill out this \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/fruit-rescue-tree-donors/\">\u003ci>online form\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> to register your own fruit tree(s) to be gleaned.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>ForestR will be at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edenareachamber.com/fall-fest/\">\u003ci>Castro Valley Fall Festival\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Sept. 6 and 7, where it will give away fruit and sell homemade jams made from the gleaned fruit. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With its fruit gleaning events, ForestR does its part to reduce food waste and feed the hungry.",
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"title": "The Scrappy Volunteers Rescuing Fruit From East Bay Backyards | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It was around 9 p.m. on a recent Sunday when the four-alarm email came through: A large number of volunteers were needed in Brentwood first thing Wednesday morning to harvest 80 peach trees — ideally before all of the lovely, softball-sized fruit dropped to the ground and went to waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With apologies for the short notice, the email asked, might I be able to help?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These are the kinds of messages that pop into your inbox when you join \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/\">Contra Costa Fruit Rescue\u003c/a>’s scrappy band of volunteer fruit pickers. The volunteers harvest surplus cherries, peaches, apples and pears — whatever’s in season — from backyard orchards throughout Contra Costa County, donating the rescued fruit to local food pantries and soup kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fruit Rescue is just one of a handful of fruit gleaning operations overseen by the Castro Valley–based nonprofit ForestR, which runs similar programs in \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/solano-gleans/\">Dixon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/gleaning/\">Castro Valley\u003c/a>. And while a peach emergency might not seem like the \u003ci>most\u003c/i> pressing matter during this era of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12052452/you-cant-trust-anyone-in-oakland-fear-of-ice-raids-grips-day-laborers\">ICE raids\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12032030/uc-berkeley-faculty-rally-to-defend-free-speech-and-protest-cuts\">free speech crackdowns\u003c/a>, the group’s efforts are making a real impact. So far in 2025, in Contra Costa County alone, Fruit Rescue has harvested and donated more than 75,000 pounds of usable fruit that would have otherwise gone to waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those donations are even more crucial now, with the country teetering on the \u003ca href=\"https://fortune.com/2025/08/22/recession-warning-economic-outlook-trump-tariffs-inflation-immigration-crackdown-zandi/\">brink of a recession\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/bayarea/article/food-bank-trump-usda-cuts-20265038.php\">food insecurity on the rise\u003c/a>. Program lead Pat Schultz says the food banks she works with have seen their budgets slashed by a quarter or more, the result of \u003ca href=\"http://banks\">funding cuts by both the Trump administration and the state of California\u003c/a>. Meanwhile, the number of people who need food assistance \u003ca href=\"https://calmatters.org/california-divide/2023/12/food-insecurity-california/\">has only gone up\u003c/a> since the height of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980091\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980091\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Two women in matching green Fruit Rescue T-shirts stand in a pear orchard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ForestR CEO Nimone Li-Hardisty (left) and Pat Schultz, program lead and Lamorinda area harvest leader, stop at their first location of the morning — a Martinez home registered for “gleaning,” the practice of harvesting excess crops to donate to food partners. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Especially with the high cost that we have in the Bay Area, it’s easy to go from ‘everything is fine’ to ‘I’m on the street or food insecure.’ Most people are one month away from disaster,” Schultz says. “The need for this type of work is only increasing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even apart from the altruistic aspect of the work, Fruit Rescue’s gleaning events — which are open to anyone who signs up through the group’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/o/fruit-rescue-57801496893\">Eventbrite page\u003c/a> — are a fun, family-friendly way to spend a morning. The aforementioned peach-picking session didn’t wind up happening (backyard fruit can be a fickle enterprise), but my nine-year-old daughter and I drove out to Martinez’s Alhambra Valley on an impossibly clear-skied Tuesday morning to harvest about a dozen Bartlett pear trees in a tidy, picturesque frontyard orchard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980089\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980089\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"People picking pears from trees in an orchard.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-25-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Volunteers harvest pears in the frontyard orchard. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Amber Martinez, who heads up Fruit Rescue’s Martinez gleaning events, showed us how to use long, lacrosse-stick-like fruit-picker poles to nudge the ripe pears off the tree branches and gave a quick rundown of dos and don’ts. (DON’T climb the trees. DO place squishy, rotten pears into blue buckets so they can be composted later.) Working alongside seven or eight other volunteers — mostly affable retirees for this midweek session — we picked the trees clean in about an hour and a half, ready to move on to the next harvest site.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an added bonus? The pears were so plentiful that each volunteer wound up taking home a bagful for themselves — including fruit with slight imperfections that many food pantries can’t accept.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980090\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980090\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Crates of pears loaded into the truck of a car.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-26-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A volunteer’s vehicle filled with crates of fruit, snacks and tools. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nancy Hobart, the homeowner, says she’s had fruit gleaners come harvest the pear and Fuyu persimmon trees on her property for the past 15 years because she hates to see food going to waste. Fruit Rescue has been the most reliable of these services. “They’re so professional,” she says. “There’s hardly a leaf left out in the orchard.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nimone Li-Hardisty says she and her husband, Yonaton Hardisty, founded ForestR — the nonprofit that operates Fruit Rescue — shortly after a conversation with their then-teenage children, who told them they weren’t planning on ever having kids of their own. “The world is burning,” Li-Hardisty recalls her children saying. “You guys messed it up.” Today, she remembers that conversation as an “oh shit” moment that made her want to be proactive about improving the planet. “We don’t want our kids to have to be on Mars,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Li-Hardisty explains it, ForestR takes a highly localized, three-pronged approach to environmental beautification that includes cleaning (mainly of a stretch of highway in Castro Valley), greening (e.g. through planting trees and creating small “\u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/pocket-parks/\">pocket parks\u003c/a>”) \u003ci>and \u003c/i>gleaning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980084\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980084\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman reaches up into a tree with a fruit-picking tool.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-6-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Li-Hardisty leans in to pick a pear. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Schultz, the Contra Costa Fruit Rescue lead, joined forces with ForestR in 2022 to revive the gleaning program she’d been involved in for about a decade but had shut down during the pandemic. A retired music teacher, Schultz says her interest in food rescue stems from her Depression-era parents, who taught her that wasting food was not okay. “They were the original recyclers,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, Schultz says interest in this kind of work accelerated during the pandemic, which “made people far more aware of food,” she says. Suddenly, in affluent parts of Contra Costa County like Lafayette, where Schultz lives, “You had to stand in line [at the grocery store,] and you may or may not get what you want.” Many people started gardening during that time, getting in touch with their yards in a deeper way — and they wanted to make sure the food they grew wouldn’t go to waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The upshot is that more and more people have \u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/fruit-rescue-tree-donors/\">reached out to Fruit Rescue\u003c/a> to have their fruit trees gleaned. And it isn’t primarily folks like Hobart who have mini-orchards, essentially, in their yard, Schultz stresses. Most of the people who participate in the program only have one or two trees. “But one apple tree can easily yield 200 to 300 pounds,” she says. “One grapefruit tree can be 400 pounds.” In fact, Schultz says there’s one elderly gentleman who calls her every year about his apple tree, which only yields 10 pounds of apples — “but for him, it’s critical that this fruit not go to waste.” Schultz goes by herself each year to personally harvest his tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980088\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980088\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in work gloves holding pears.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/250812_RESCUING-FRUIT-IN-CONTRA-COSTA-COUNTY-_GH-24-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aurora, a volunteer with Contra Costa Fruit Rescue for four years, holds pears that she harvested. She says cherry season is her favorite time to pick. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruit Rescue isn’t unique. A handful of similar organizations operate around the Bay Area, like \u003ca href=\"https://www.villageharvest.org/\">Village Harvest\u003c/a>, which is mostly based in the South Bay and Peninsula, and \u003ca href=\"https://urbantilth.org/grow/orchard-for-all/\">Urban Tilth\u003c/a>, which oversees a network of small backyard orchards in Richmond. But these gleaning programs aren’t exactly super-common either, which is why Schultz hopes fruit lovers in other cities might be inspired to replicate Fruit Rescue and ForestR’s model.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>My own Tuesday morning fruit expedition ended at another backyard orchard in Martinez. There, a single large apple tree had at least three different varieties of apples grafted onto it, including a crop of Pink Ladies that were wonderfully crisp and tart straight off the tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final tally for a couple of hours of work? 974 pounds of apples and pears, all donated to Concord’s \u003ca href=\"https://whiteponyexpress.org/\">White Pony Express\u003c/a>, whose food rescue program distributes the surplus fruit to food pantries and other nonprofit service providers across the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, Schultz says, the bottom-line goal is simple: “To get the fruit and then get it to someone who can use it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/contracosta_fruitrescue/\">\u003ci>Contra Costa Fruit Rescue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> posts upcoming gleaning events on its \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/\">\u003ci>website\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/o/fruit-rescue-57801496893\">\u003ci>Eventbrite page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Right now, mostly pears and apples are being harvested, including events in Walnut Creek and on Bethel Island on Saturday, Aug. 30, and one in Lamorinda on Sunday, Aug. 31. On Saturday, Sept. 6, Fruit Rescue will harvest several backyard orchards in the Pleasanton/San Ramon/Danville area. Fill out this \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.forestr.org/fruit-rescue/fruit-rescue-tree-donors/\">\u003ci>online form\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> to register your own fruit tree(s) to be gleaned.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>ForestR will be at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.edenareachamber.com/fall-fest/\">\u003ci>Castro Valley Fall Festival\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Sept. 6 and 7, where it will give away fruit and sell homemade jams made from the gleaned fruit. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast",
"title": "Showing Soon at BAMPFA: Avocado Iced Coffee and Art-Inspired Cakes",
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"content": "\u003cp>When Nora Haron visited the vacant cafe space at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/bampfa\">Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive\u003c/a> earlier this summer, the museum had just put up a beautiful \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13977115/bampfa-routed-west-african-american-quilts-review\">exhibition of African American quilts\u003c/a>. Her chef brain was immediately inspired by the colorful patterns: What if she baked a Swiss roll that emulated one of the designs? What if she turned one of the quilts into a cookie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a no-brainer, then, for Haron to put in a bid to take over BAMPFA’s upstairs cafe, which has sat empty since its former tenant, Babette, moved out at the end of 2021. And as it turns out, the Berkeley museum was just as enthusiastic about her vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a couple of months, Haron will reopen the BAMPFA cafe as a new incarnation of her Indonesian-inspired coffee shop, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/?hl=en\">Kopi Bar & Bakery\u003c/a>. The idea, she says, is to bring a slice of Indonesian and Singaporean cafe culture to Berkeley. Think kaya toast; pastries made with pandan, coconut and palm sugar; and, perhaps Haron’s most famous creation, the iced coffee drink known as the Kopi Avocado.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, Haron hopes the cafe will establish itself as an “extended visit for museumgoers” — in other words, that no trip to BAMPFA will feel complete without a stop at Kopi Bar. And yes, part of that will include creating a special art-themed cake or pastry to complement every big new exhibition that opens at the museum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980472\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980472\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34.jpg\" alt=\"A big spread of pastries at a cafe\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Selection of pastries at the original Kopi Bar in Walnut Creek. \u003ccite>(Adahlia Cole, courtesy of Kopi Bar & Bakery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, the project is a dream come true for Haron. “I always wanted to go to Berkeley,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For East Bay food lovers, Haron’s comeback is big news in and of itself. Back in March, the chef made the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/closings/203254/sandai-kopi-bar-closing-walnut-creek-east-bay\">difficult decision to close\u003c/a> SanDai, her two-year-old Indonesian-Singaporean restaurant in downtown Walnut Creek, and the original Kopi Bar coffee shop that shared the space. Reached by phone, Haron explained that business had been terribly slow for well over a year — much too slow to justify the nearly $29,000 rent. At first she’d hoped that another restaurant would move into the space, allowing her to continue running Kopi Bar next door. But she never wound up finding the right collaborator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SanDai was a rare East Bay destination for Indonesian food — elegant, umami-packed versions of classics like beef rendang and seafood mee goreng. For the museum cafe, the savory side of the menu will be greatly simplified, consisting mostly of soups, sandwiches and congee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980473\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980473\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora.jpg\" alt=\"An Asian woman poses for a portrait inside an empy cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Nora Haron poses inside the soon-to-be-reopened BAMPFA cafe space. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Nora Horan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13929177,arts_13953078,arts_13969923']\u003c/span>The rotating selection of fusion pastries and creative coffee drinks, on the other hand, will be similar to what she served at the original Kopi Bar, where the Kopi Avocado — a cool, creamy blend of espresso, avocado and coconut condensed milk — was a particular standout. The cafe will also be one of the only places in the East Bay where diners can get the classic Singaporean breakfast of buttered toast slathered with coconut jam. (As a nod to the Bay Area, Kopi Bar’s kaya toast will feature sourdough bread made with a starter Haron has been feeding for 10 years.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Haron also plans to continue to hold special events at the cafe, like the occasional \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963228/indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek\">Indonesian-Singaporean high tea series\u003c/a> that she used to host in Walnut Creek.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haron says she expects the renovation process to be fairly quick. One of the only big changes that she’s excited to make is hanging up the collection of Balinese carvings that she used to display at the old restaurant. If all goes well, she hopes to open no later than October.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To start out,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Kopi Bar & Bakery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will be open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. (and from 9–11 a.m. for UC Berkeley students and staff only) on the second floor at the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive (2155 Center St., Berkeley).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When Nora Haron visited the vacant cafe space at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/bampfa\">Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive\u003c/a> earlier this summer, the museum had just put up a beautiful \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13977115/bampfa-routed-west-african-american-quilts-review\">exhibition of African American quilts\u003c/a>. Her chef brain was immediately inspired by the colorful patterns: What if she baked a Swiss roll that emulated one of the designs? What if she turned one of the quilts into a cookie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a no-brainer, then, for Haron to put in a bid to take over BAMPFA’s upstairs cafe, which has sat empty since its former tenant, Babette, moved out at the end of 2021. And as it turns out, the Berkeley museum was just as enthusiastic about her vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a couple of months, Haron will reopen the BAMPFA cafe as a new incarnation of her Indonesian-inspired coffee shop, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/?hl=en\">Kopi Bar & Bakery\u003c/a>. The idea, she says, is to bring a slice of Indonesian and Singaporean cafe culture to Berkeley. Think kaya toast; pastries made with pandan, coconut and palm sugar; and, perhaps Haron’s most famous creation, the iced coffee drink known as the Kopi Avocado.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all, Haron hopes the cafe will establish itself as an “extended visit for museumgoers” — in other words, that no trip to BAMPFA will feel complete without a stop at Kopi Bar. And yes, part of that will include creating a special art-themed cake or pastry to complement every big new exhibition that opens at the museum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980472\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980472\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34.jpg\" alt=\"A big spread of pastries at a cafe\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/KopiSelect-34-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Selection of pastries at the original Kopi Bar in Walnut Creek. \u003ccite>(Adahlia Cole, courtesy of Kopi Bar & Bakery)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, the project is a dream come true for Haron. “I always wanted to go to Berkeley,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For East Bay food lovers, Haron’s comeback is big news in and of itself. Back in March, the chef made the \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/closings/203254/sandai-kopi-bar-closing-walnut-creek-east-bay\">difficult decision to close\u003c/a> SanDai, her two-year-old Indonesian-Singaporean restaurant in downtown Walnut Creek, and the original Kopi Bar coffee shop that shared the space. Reached by phone, Haron explained that business had been terribly slow for well over a year — much too slow to justify the nearly $29,000 rent. At first she’d hoped that another restaurant would move into the space, allowing her to continue running Kopi Bar next door. But she never wound up finding the right collaborator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SanDai was a rare East Bay destination for Indonesian food — elegant, umami-packed versions of classics like beef rendang and seafood mee goreng. For the museum cafe, the savory side of the menu will be greatly simplified, consisting mostly of soups, sandwiches and congee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980473\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980473\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora.jpg\" alt=\"An Asian woman poses for a portrait inside an empy cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/chef-nora-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Nora Haron poses inside the soon-to-be-reopened BAMPFA cafe space. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Nora Horan)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>The rotating selection of fusion pastries and creative coffee drinks, on the other hand, will be similar to what she served at the original Kopi Bar, where the Kopi Avocado — a cool, creamy blend of espresso, avocado and coconut condensed milk — was a particular standout. The cafe will also be one of the only places in the East Bay where diners can get the classic Singaporean breakfast of buttered toast slathered with coconut jam. (As a nod to the Bay Area, Kopi Bar’s kaya toast will feature sourdough bread made with a starter Haron has been feeding for 10 years.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Haron also plans to continue to hold special events at the cafe, like the occasional \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963228/indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek\">Indonesian-Singaporean high tea series\u003c/a> that she used to host in Walnut Creek.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haron says she expects the renovation process to be fairly quick. One of the only big changes that she’s excited to make is hanging up the collection of Balinese carvings that she used to display at the old restaurant. If all goes well, she hopes to open no later than October.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To start out,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kopibar.us/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Kopi Bar & Bakery\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will be open Wednesday through Sunday 11 a.m.–3 p.m. (and from 9–11 a.m. for UC Berkeley students and staff only) on the second floor at the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive (2155 Center St., Berkeley).\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980220\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980220\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devour\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the last two years, San Bruno’s Z-One Kitchen has added ‘Texas’-style barbecue to its menu of Shaanxi drinking food. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we pulled into a cramped plaza in San Bruno, the bilingual sign above a modest-looking Chinese restaurant promised an ultra-rare, perhaps never-before-heard-of combination: “岐山肉夹馍 & Texas BBQ.” In other words, Xi’an-style rou jia mo (aka “Chinese hamburgers”) served alongside heaping stacks of Texas ’cue. What?!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the “Texas” part of the formula at Z-One Kitchen, as the restaurant is called, really stretches the limits of creative marketing. But that didn’t stop us from having an intensely meaty, rollicking good time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We arrived at around 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, our curiosity piqued by online reports of this unusual fusion cuisine. The place closes up shop at 10:30 — decently late, even if it isn’t on the extreme end of the late-night dining spectrum. (Curiously, it doesn’t appear to have any connection to the similarly named A-One Kitchen — another \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951914/dungeness-crab-garlic-noodles-san-bruno-late-night\">Midnight Diners’ favorite\u003c/a> — just a mile up the road.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in terms of rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes, Z-One has the part down to a tee, starting with the crowded parking lot, where a suped-up Volkswagen Beetle was gunning its engine. The dining room — a clutter of mismatched furniture and empty Tsingtao beer bottles — was loud, and so busy that we had to share a six-top booth with another party. The workers were all big, burly Chinese guys with Northern accents. After getting vague, slightly brusque responses to our questions about the menu, I finally interjected in Mandarin, prompting our server to cry out (also in Mandarin), “If you speak Chinese, why didn’t you just say so to begin with!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The overall effect was like we’d stumbled onto the kind of roadside food stand you might find somewhere in rural China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980221\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980221\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of a Chinese restaurant lit up at night. The sign above advertises 'Texas BBQ.'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though it’s only open until 10:30 p.m., the restaurant has its rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes down to a tee. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the restaurant’s signage and branding suggest, the menu is divided into two halves: one side has all the “Texas barbecue”; the other side is a mishmash of Chinese drinking food, most of it specific to Shaanxi province. For the barbecue, there’s a $35 all-you-can-eat option (!), or you can order a plate that comes with your choice of meat and two dishes for as little as $16 — not unlike the meat-and-two format you’d find at a classic barbecue joint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only difference? The spices, the seasoning, the flavor profile and probably the entirety of the cooking process. None of the meats we tried had seen the inside of a smoker. Instead, they appeared to have been braised in some soy sauce–based concoction, then finished on the grill. They tasted not Texan (you should just eliminate that expectation entirely) but rather wholly Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which isn’t to say this take on barbecue wasn’t tasty in its own right. The flavor reminded me of Chinese beef jerky more than anything else — savory with a whisper of honeyed sweetness. We especially loved the beef spare ribs, which were luscious and slightly sticky, with tender meat that pulled right off the bone. We also ordered slippery, gelatinous pigs’ feet and, our least favorite, pork ribs that came out a bit too dry. Next time we might just get three orders of beef ribs. You can also choose from an assortment of cumin-dusted meat skewers, similar to what you’ll find at other \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951382/chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay\">Chinese barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> around the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13979460,arts_13978355,arts_13976695']In truth, the sides are probably the most fusion-y part of Z-One’s menu, allowing you to pair the meats with, say, potato salad (creamy and surprisingly addicting) and a satisfyingly greasy, soy sauce–drenched version of egg fried rice. We loved them both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, when Z-One first opened in 2020, it was a straightforward Shaanxi restaurant, specializing in the northwestern Chinese regional cuisine that gained some mainstream prominence in the U.S. after \u003ca href=\"https://ny.eater.com/2018/6/8/17442082/xian-famous-foods-jason-wang-anthony-bourdain\">the rise of Xi’an Famous Foods\u003c/a>, in New York, in the late aughts. So while the barbecue is worth trying, Z-One’s real sweet spot is its Shaanxi food, especially those so-called “Chinese hamburgers.” These, too, aren’t a fusion thing; rou jia mo has a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger\">2,200-year history in China\u003c/a>. The burger comparison comes from the well-seasoned meat stuffed inside a crisp flatbread — more akin to a paratha or an extra-thin English muffin than a burger bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Z-One’s classic pork rou jia mo came crammed full of saucy, finely shredded meat. It was extraordinarily juicy and well-seasoned, with an occasional jolt of fresh chili heat. I liked the version stuffed with grilled cumin lamb and sliced onions even better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a warm summer night, the sandwiches pair perfectly with an order of liangpi — wide, crinkly cold noodles tossed in a spicy, tangy sesame sauce. Even better: Z-One serves one of the better versions of fried stinky tofu I’ve found in the Bay Area. The tofu cubes were expertly fried, super-crisp without getting dried out, served in a pool of deliciously garlicky chili sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything Z-One serves goes exceptionally well with cold beer, so it came as no surprise that guys at the table next to us were three or four Tsingtaos in. They kept calling out to the owner (“Lao ban! Lao ban!”), teasing him half-nonsensically. We were feeling a little bit giddy too by the end of the night, even though we hadn’t been drinking. Instead, we left with full bellies — the smell of cumin and garlic heavy on our breath, with two big boxes of leftovers to tote home — feeling like we’d been taken on an unexpected journey. Not to Texas, certainly. But somewhere we hadn’t been before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Z-One Kitchen is open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–10:30 p.m., at 130 El Camino Real Ste. C in San Bruno.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980220\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980220\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devour\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the last two years, San Bruno’s Z-One Kitchen has added ‘Texas’-style barbecue to its menu of Shaanxi drinking food. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we pulled into a cramped plaza in San Bruno, the bilingual sign above a modest-looking Chinese restaurant promised an ultra-rare, perhaps never-before-heard-of combination: “岐山肉夹馍 & Texas BBQ.” In other words, Xi’an-style rou jia mo (aka “Chinese hamburgers”) served alongside heaping stacks of Texas ’cue. What?!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the “Texas” part of the formula at Z-One Kitchen, as the restaurant is called, really stretches the limits of creative marketing. But that didn’t stop us from having an intensely meaty, rollicking good time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We arrived at around 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, our curiosity piqued by online reports of this unusual fusion cuisine. The place closes up shop at 10:30 — decently late, even if it isn’t on the extreme end of the late-night dining spectrum. (Curiously, it doesn’t appear to have any connection to the similarly named A-One Kitchen — another \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951914/dungeness-crab-garlic-noodles-san-bruno-late-night\">Midnight Diners’ favorite\u003c/a> — just a mile up the road.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in terms of rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes, Z-One has the part down to a tee, starting with the crowded parking lot, where a suped-up Volkswagen Beetle was gunning its engine. The dining room — a clutter of mismatched furniture and empty Tsingtao beer bottles — was loud, and so busy that we had to share a six-top booth with another party. The workers were all big, burly Chinese guys with Northern accents. After getting vague, slightly brusque responses to our questions about the menu, I finally interjected in Mandarin, prompting our server to cry out (also in Mandarin), “If you speak Chinese, why didn’t you just say so to begin with!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The overall effect was like we’d stumbled onto the kind of roadside food stand you might find somewhere in rural China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980221\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980221\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of a Chinese restaurant lit up at night. The sign above advertises 'Texas BBQ.'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though it’s only open until 10:30 p.m., the restaurant has its rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes down to a tee. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the restaurant’s signage and branding suggest, the menu is divided into two halves: one side has all the “Texas barbecue”; the other side is a mishmash of Chinese drinking food, most of it specific to Shaanxi province. For the barbecue, there’s a $35 all-you-can-eat option (!), or you can order a plate that comes with your choice of meat and two dishes for as little as $16 — not unlike the meat-and-two format you’d find at a classic barbecue joint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only difference? The spices, the seasoning, the flavor profile and probably the entirety of the cooking process. None of the meats we tried had seen the inside of a smoker. Instead, they appeared to have been braised in some soy sauce–based concoction, then finished on the grill. They tasted not Texan (you should just eliminate that expectation entirely) but rather wholly Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which isn’t to say this take on barbecue wasn’t tasty in its own right. The flavor reminded me of Chinese beef jerky more than anything else — savory with a whisper of honeyed sweetness. We especially loved the beef spare ribs, which were luscious and slightly sticky, with tender meat that pulled right off the bone. We also ordered slippery, gelatinous pigs’ feet and, our least favorite, pork ribs that came out a bit too dry. Next time we might just get three orders of beef ribs. You can also choose from an assortment of cumin-dusted meat skewers, similar to what you’ll find at other \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951382/chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay\">Chinese barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> around the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In truth, the sides are probably the most fusion-y part of Z-One’s menu, allowing you to pair the meats with, say, potato salad (creamy and surprisingly addicting) and a satisfyingly greasy, soy sauce–drenched version of egg fried rice. We loved them both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, when Z-One first opened in 2020, it was a straightforward Shaanxi restaurant, specializing in the northwestern Chinese regional cuisine that gained some mainstream prominence in the U.S. after \u003ca href=\"https://ny.eater.com/2018/6/8/17442082/xian-famous-foods-jason-wang-anthony-bourdain\">the rise of Xi’an Famous Foods\u003c/a>, in New York, in the late aughts. So while the barbecue is worth trying, Z-One’s real sweet spot is its Shaanxi food, especially those so-called “Chinese hamburgers.” These, too, aren’t a fusion thing; rou jia mo has a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger\">2,200-year history in China\u003c/a>. The burger comparison comes from the well-seasoned meat stuffed inside a crisp flatbread — more akin to a paratha or an extra-thin English muffin than a burger bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Z-One’s classic pork rou jia mo came crammed full of saucy, finely shredded meat. It was extraordinarily juicy and well-seasoned, with an occasional jolt of fresh chili heat. I liked the version stuffed with grilled cumin lamb and sliced onions even better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a warm summer night, the sandwiches pair perfectly with an order of liangpi — wide, crinkly cold noodles tossed in a spicy, tangy sesame sauce. Even better: Z-One serves one of the better versions of fried stinky tofu I’ve found in the Bay Area. The tofu cubes were expertly fried, super-crisp without getting dried out, served in a pool of deliciously garlicky chili sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything Z-One serves goes exceptionally well with cold beer, so it came as no surprise that guys at the table next to us were three or four Tsingtaos in. They kept calling out to the owner (“Lao ban! Lao ban!”), teasing him half-nonsensically. We were feeling a little bit giddy too by the end of the night, even though we hadn’t been drinking. Instead, we left with full bellies — the smell of cumin and garlic heavy on our breath, with two big boxes of leftovers to tote home — feeling like we’d been taken on an unexpected journey. Not to Texas, certainly. But somewhere we hadn’t been before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "At This San Jose Fusion Restaurant, Mexican and Jordanian Flavors Collide",
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"content": "\u003cp>Located on a quiet corner of South \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/san-jose\">San Jose\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/asimexicanfusion/?hl=en\">Así Mexican Fusion Bistro\u003c/a> would be easy to miss if it weren’t for the vibrant butterfly mural on the wall — one of the butterfly’s wings is a Mexican flag, and the other is a Jordanian flag. Inside, where customers sip on micheladas and catch sports on the TV, the restaurant feels like a standard Mexican spot until the basket of pita chips and tortilla chips arrives at the table: Instead of guacamole, you dip the chips in hummus topped with salsa macha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dip is typical of Así’s hybrid approach, which supplements the restaurant’s traditional Mexican menu with dishes that incorporate Middle Eastern ingredients in surprisingly delicious ways. Mini blue tostadas come topped with ribbons of beef shawarma, toum (garlic sauce) and sumac pickled onions. The shakshuka a la Mexicana, meanwhile, is a cross between traditional shakshuka and huevos rancheros, combining eggs, salty cheese, cilantro and a sumac-spiced tomato sauce — again, all on top of a tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Lourdes Barraza quit her job as a Group Supervisor at Santa Cruz Juvenile Hall to start a taco catering business in August 2018. “I’m a mom of three girls,” says Barraza, noting that catering allowed her to keep a flexible schedule. “For me, having my career was important, but being a mom was always number one.” Six years later, in January 2024, Barraza opened Así Mexican Fusion Bistro along with her eldest daughter, Isabella Astorga, who manages the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13979657\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13979657\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallo%CC%81n-Left-to-right.jpg\" alt=\"Four women pose for a portrait in front of a mural.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left to right: Lourdes Barraza and her daughters Isabella Astorga, Sophia Gallón and Ana Colin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Así Mexican Fusion Bistro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the brick-and-mortar, the mother and daughter wanted to go beyond traditional Mexican food. “We thought, ‘Let’s do Middle Eastern fusion,’” says Barraza. As it turns out, Astorga’s partner is from Jordan, and as she became more familiar with that country’s cuisine, she was intrigued by how similar it was to Mexican food — and how well the two cuisines’ spices and cooking techniques blended together. The fusion dishes at Así don’t come across as a gimmick, then, but rather a love letter to both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also a lot of fun. Some of the restaurant’s most creative fusion creations include a falafel-stuffed burrito and fries loaded with chicken shawarma, black beans, feta and pickled turnips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe development starts by breaking dishes down into their components and examining potential twists. For example, if a Mexican dish has oregano, the chefs consider fortifying that earthy flavor by adding Middle Eastern spices like za’atar or sumac. “It’s trial and error,” says Barraza. “As we go, we make changes we feel necessary. It seems to be working, people seem to love it.” One of their greatest hits is the tahini-chipotle crema, which serves as a nutty, smoky complement to grilled meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13979658\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13979658\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken kebab, grilled tomatoes, cucumber salad and various sauces on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Así’s take on al pastor is like a deconstructed chicken kebab skewer. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s worth noting that there’s a long history of Mediterranean and Mexican fusion. Al pastor was created thanks to Lebanese immigrants who \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/02/08/584057034/building-a-latino-muslim-coalition-with-tacotrucksateverymosque\">introduced spit-roasted meat to Mexico in the 1930s\u003c/a>. Así shakes things up a bit by serving both chicken shawarma (cooked on a traditional vertical spit) and a pollo al pastor plate that’s essentially a deconstructed kebab: big, kebab-like chunks of spiced chicken paired with charred tomatoes, onion and a heaping pile of cucumber salad. The experience of loading up a freshly made corn tortilla with chicken kebab, tzatziki, toum and salsa verde is something you’re unlikely to find anywhere else in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13977033,arts_13971280,arts_13976236']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Así is also a fusion of the family’s experiences and skills. Barraza brings her cooking experience as well as knowledge of family recipes — Así’s salsas are the same ones her father served at his taqueria in Southern California. Meanwhile, Astorga puts her communications degree to use by running an efficient floor and creating a strong sense of community with customers. Barraza’s youngest daughter helps out as a server and makes \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAl2EuYSxlV/?hl=en\">social media videos\u003c/a> for the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Así is relatively new, it has already earned a dedicated following, with some customers stopping in as many as five times a week. “We’ve become a pillar in the short time we’ve been in the community,” Astorga says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13979656\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13979656\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada.jpg\" alt=\"Tostada topped with egg cooked in tomato sauce.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Shakshuka a la Mexicana’ is a cross between traditional shakshuka and huevos rancheros. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The success can be attributed in part to Barraza’s willingness to adapt. When she noticed that a majority of Así’s customers were Muslims who had concerns about cross-contamination from pork, she decided to remove it from the menu. Now, all of the food they serve is halal. Meanwhile, Barraza says many Latino customers have been hesitant to try the restaurant’s Middle Eastern–influenced dishes. She hopes to entice them by pairing those items with more familiar Mexican dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family has bright hopes for the restaurant’s future, with plans to eventually open a nicer sit-down location with full table service. However, they’re in no rush to expand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The restaurant is in its toddler stages,” Barraza says. “Before we open another location, I need it walking on its own.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/asimexicanfusion/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Así Mexican Fusion Bistro\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 6239 Santa Teresa Blvd. in San Jose.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Located on a quiet corner of South \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/san-jose\">San Jose\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/asimexicanfusion/?hl=en\">Así Mexican Fusion Bistro\u003c/a> would be easy to miss if it weren’t for the vibrant butterfly mural on the wall — one of the butterfly’s wings is a Mexican flag, and the other is a Jordanian flag. Inside, where customers sip on micheladas and catch sports on the TV, the restaurant feels like a standard Mexican spot until the basket of pita chips and tortilla chips arrives at the table: Instead of guacamole, you dip the chips in hummus topped with salsa macha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dip is typical of Así’s hybrid approach, which supplements the restaurant’s traditional Mexican menu with dishes that incorporate Middle Eastern ingredients in surprisingly delicious ways. Mini blue tostadas come topped with ribbons of beef shawarma, toum (garlic sauce) and sumac pickled onions. The shakshuka a la Mexicana, meanwhile, is a cross between traditional shakshuka and huevos rancheros, combining eggs, salty cheese, cilantro and a sumac-spiced tomato sauce — again, all on top of a tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Lourdes Barraza quit her job as a Group Supervisor at Santa Cruz Juvenile Hall to start a taco catering business in August 2018. “I’m a mom of three girls,” says Barraza, noting that catering allowed her to keep a flexible schedule. “For me, having my career was important, but being a mom was always number one.” Six years later, in January 2024, Barraza opened Así Mexican Fusion Bistro along with her eldest daughter, Isabella Astorga, who manages the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13979657\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13979657\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallo%CC%81n-Left-to-right.jpg\" alt=\"Four women pose for a portrait in front of a mural.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1125\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Lourdes-Barraza-Isabella-Astorga-Ana-Colin-and-Sophia-Gallón-Left-to-right-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left to right: Lourdes Barraza and her daughters Isabella Astorga, Sophia Gallón and Ana Colin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Así Mexican Fusion Bistro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the brick-and-mortar, the mother and daughter wanted to go beyond traditional Mexican food. “We thought, ‘Let’s do Middle Eastern fusion,’” says Barraza. As it turns out, Astorga’s partner is from Jordan, and as she became more familiar with that country’s cuisine, she was intrigued by how similar it was to Mexican food — and how well the two cuisines’ spices and cooking techniques blended together. The fusion dishes at Así don’t come across as a gimmick, then, but rather a love letter to both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also a lot of fun. Some of the restaurant’s most creative fusion creations include a falafel-stuffed burrito and fries loaded with chicken shawarma, black beans, feta and pickled turnips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipe development starts by breaking dishes down into their components and examining potential twists. For example, if a Mexican dish has oregano, the chefs consider fortifying that earthy flavor by adding Middle Eastern spices like za’atar or sumac. “It’s trial and error,” says Barraza. “As we go, we make changes we feel necessary. It seems to be working, people seem to love it.” One of their greatest hits is the tahini-chipotle crema, which serves as a nutty, smoky complement to grilled meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13979658\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13979658\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken kebab, grilled tomatoes, cucumber salad and various sauces on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Pollo-Al-Pastor-Kebab-Plate-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Así’s take on al pastor is like a deconstructed chicken kebab skewer. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s worth noting that there’s a long history of Mediterranean and Mexican fusion. Al pastor was created thanks to Lebanese immigrants who \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/02/08/584057034/building-a-latino-muslim-coalition-with-tacotrucksateverymosque\">introduced spit-roasted meat to Mexico in the 1930s\u003c/a>. Así shakes things up a bit by serving both chicken shawarma (cooked on a traditional vertical spit) and a pollo al pastor plate that’s essentially a deconstructed kebab: big, kebab-like chunks of spiced chicken paired with charred tomatoes, onion and a heaping pile of cucumber salad. The experience of loading up a freshly made corn tortilla with chicken kebab, tzatziki, toum and salsa verde is something you’re unlikely to find anywhere else in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Así is also a fusion of the family’s experiences and skills. Barraza brings her cooking experience as well as knowledge of family recipes — Así’s salsas are the same ones her father served at his taqueria in Southern California. Meanwhile, Astorga puts her communications degree to use by running an efficient floor and creating a strong sense of community with customers. Barraza’s youngest daughter helps out as a server and makes \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DAl2EuYSxlV/?hl=en\">social media videos\u003c/a> for the restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Así is relatively new, it has already earned a dedicated following, with some customers stopping in as many as five times a week. “We’ve become a pillar in the short time we’ve been in the community,” Astorga says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13979656\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13979656\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada.jpg\" alt=\"Tostada topped with egg cooked in tomato sauce.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1126\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Shakshuka-a-la-Mexicana-tostada-1536x865.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Shakshuka a la Mexicana’ is a cross between traditional shakshuka and huevos rancheros. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The success can be attributed in part to Barraza’s willingness to adapt. When she noticed that a majority of Así’s customers were Muslims who had concerns about cross-contamination from pork, she decided to remove it from the menu. Now, all of the food they serve is halal. Meanwhile, Barraza says many Latino customers have been hesitant to try the restaurant’s Middle Eastern–influenced dishes. She hopes to entice them by pairing those items with more familiar Mexican dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family has bright hopes for the restaurant’s future, with plans to eventually open a nicer sit-down location with full table service. However, they’re in no rush to expand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The restaurant is in its toddler stages,” Barraza says. “Before we open another location, I need it walking on its own.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/asimexicanfusion/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Así Mexican Fusion Bistro\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 6239 Santa Teresa Blvd. in San Jose.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"id": "american-suburb-podcast",
"title": "American Suburb: The Podcast",
"tagline": "The flip side of gentrification, told through one town",
"info": "Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?",
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},
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},
"baycurious": {
"id": "baycurious",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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},
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},
"californiareport": {
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"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"order": 8
},
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}
},
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"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"order": 10
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
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"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Masters-of-Scale-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
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