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Professional education and training includes: clinical psychology, photography, commercial cooking, web design, information architecture and UX.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":"bayareabites","instagram":null,"linkedin":"wendygoodfriend","sites":[{"site":"jpepinheart","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"about","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"science","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"food","roles":["author"]},{"site":"essentialpepin","roles":["administrator"]}],"headData":{"title":"Wendy Goodfriend | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/wendy-goodfriend"},"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"},"katewilliams":{"type":"authors","id":"5485","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5485","found":true},"name":"Kate Williams","firstName":"Kate","lastName":"Williams","slug":"katewilliams","email":"williaka@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kate Williams grew up outside of Atlanta, where twenty-pound baskets of peaches were an end-of-summer tradition. After spending time in Boston developing recipes for America's Test Kitchen and pretending to be a New Englander, she moved to sunny Berkeley. Here she works as a personal chef and food writer, covering topics ranging from taco trucks to modernist cookbooks. In addition to KQED's Bay Area Bites, Kate's work appears on Serious Eats, Berkeleyside NOSH, The Oxford American, America's Test Kitchen cookbooks, and Food52.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/25623fe56e181fe8b6ee92fd0ea077de?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"KateHWilliams","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kate Williams | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/25623fe56e181fe8b6ee92fd0ea077de?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/25623fe56e181fe8b6ee92fd0ea077de?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/katewilliams"},"trevorfelch":{"type":"authors","id":"11338","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11338","found":true},"name":"Trevor Felch","firstName":"Trevor","lastName":"Felch","slug":"trevorfelch","email":"trevor.felch@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"\u003cp class=\"p1\">I'm the SF Bay Area editor for Zagat. Before this post, I was a restaurants writer for Thrillist and SF Weekly, along with covering the wine industry for Vino 24/7. I've also dabbled in tech start-ups (of course) and TV journalism (most recently with NBC on their Rio Olympics research team). You'll find me at taquerias, bakeries, bars, pizzerias, corner bistros and tasting menu destinations throughout the Bay Area. Cheers!\u003c/p>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a65d07ea1835bde4c52ca144f9269930?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Trevor Felch | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a65d07ea1835bde4c52ca144f9269930?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a65d07ea1835bde4c52ca144f9269930?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/trevorfelch"},"7x7bayarea":{"type":"authors","id":"11590","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11590","found":true},"name":"7x7 Bay Area","firstName":"7x7 Bay Area","lastName":null,"slug":"7x7bayarea","email":"edit@7x7.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Founded in 2001, 7x7 is an independently owned and totally authentic guide to life in the San Francisco Bay Area. Our 24/7 online resource serves up stories on the best food and drink, arts and culture, style and design, hikes and wellness, regional travel, and more. Visit us anytime at \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/\">7x7.com\u003c/a>, and also find us on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/7x7/\">Facebook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/7x7bayarea/\">Instagram\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/7x7\">Twitter\u003c/a>. Plus, subscribe to our podcast, \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/7x7-bay-area-people-will-talk/id1444756628\">\"People Will Talk,\"\u003c/a> for insightful interviews with Bay Area luminaries; you'll find it on iTunes and wherever you get your podcasts.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1084e0a66476f14f77589475632b61a7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]}],"headData":{"title":"7x7 Bay Area | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1084e0a66476f14f77589475632b61a7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1084e0a66476f14f77589475632b61a7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/7x7bayarea"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_134496":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134496","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134496","score":null,"sort":[1566590455000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"at-singlethread-the-taste-of-tradition-in-a-piping-hot-donabe","title":"At Singlethread, the Taste of Tradition in a Piping Hot Donabe","publishDate":1566590455,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>by Nick Czap\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_133841,bayareabites_124357' label='More SingleThread News']\u003cbr>\nDonabe (doh-NAH-bay) is a kind of traditional Japanese clay cookware that is used over an open flame. The word is made from the Kanji characters do (\"clay\") and nabe (\"pot\"). The most sought-after donabe are made in Iga, a province 210 miles southwest of Tokyo, where, for nearly 1,300 years, potters have been transforming the local clay into vessels, and firing them in kilns fed by wood from the region's red pine forests. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes donabe from Iga so desirable is their porosity, a result of the fact that Iga's clay—dug from the remains of an ancient lake bed—is full of fossilized microorganisms that burn up in the heat of the kiln, leaving tiny air pockets which enhance the pottery's ability to retain heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kyle Connaughton developed a keen appreciation for the thermal properties of donabe long before he and his wife, Katina, opened the critically acclaimed restaurant and inn, \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">SingleThread\u003c/a>, in Healdsburg. In the early 2000s, Connaughton was living with his family in a tiny coastal village on Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost island, having moved there to work for Michel Bras, who had recently opened a restaurant in a hotel situated between Lake Toya and Uchiura Bay. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Katina, meanwhile, found work at a number of cooperative farms, where she discovered the passion for agriculture that would eventually lead to her current career, running the farm that supplies a multitude of vegetables, fruits, and other products to SingleThread's kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134500\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134500\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x.jpg\" alt=\"SingleThread in Healdsburg, CA.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SingleThread in Healdsburg, CA. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of SingleThread)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003csmall class=\"image-media media-photo-credit\">\u003c/small>\"Hokkaido is the Alaska of Japan,\" said Connaughton. \"It's off the coast of Siberia. The winters are long and very cold. We lived in a two-story townhouse and only had one small kerosene heater, which just didn't do the job. Donabe cooking was such a big part of how people live. You have a little burner, you have your hotpot running, and it's a very warm, filling, hearty meal. And the hotpot warms the whole house.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2011, Connaughton traveled to Iga to learn more about donabe. His guide was Naoko Takei Moore, a Tokyo native who had once been his pupil at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. Takei Moore, who currently lives in Los Angeles, imports Iga donabe to the States, selling them through her company, \u003ca href=\"https://toirokitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Toiro\u003c/a>, which she founded in 2008.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Naoko is really an expert on donabe cooking,\" said Connaughton, \"although she's more oriented in home cooking than on the professional side. She's been my guide to the world of different donabe and how to use them. I knew dishes from where we lived on Hokkaido, but on a professional level I'd never thought much about it. It's funny, because I started as her culinary school teacher, and she became my teacher.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Takei Moore introduced Connaughton to the Nagatani family, whose artisanal pottery, Natagani-en, was founded in Iga in 1832. At Takei Moore's suggestion, the two collaborated on \u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/239329/donabe-by-naoko-takei-moore-and-kyle-connaughton/9781607746997/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">a book\u003c/a> that explores the history, craft, and culture of donabe, as well as a multitude of traditional and modern recipes that can be stewed, braised, poached, or smoked in the versatile clay pots. Beautifully illustrated by the photographer Eric Wolfinger, it's an edifying, hunger-inducing read.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast.jpg\" alt=\"A donabe made an appearance at breakfast the following morning, in SingleThread's Japanese Breakfast.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A donabe made an appearance at breakfast the following morning, in SingleThread's Japanese Breakfast. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since opening SingleThread in December 2016, Connaughton had been pondering the idea of an in-room dining experience. Guests who stay at the inn a single night always eat at the restaurant, which in late 2018 was awarded three Michelin stars. For guests who stayed longer, Connaughton wanted to offer an alternative to the restaurant's 11-course tasting menu, which doesn't change from one evening to the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like the idea that the room has its own unique experience, like a secret menu,\" he continued, \"and that there's no other way to have that experience than to come and stay.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea of using donabe appealed to Connaughton on a number of levels. From a service perspective, donabe had certain advantages, namely their easy portability and their ability to keep food hot. There were other considerations as well, among them the desire to share something from his background in traditional Japanese cooking, in contrast to the food served at the restaurant, which has more of a contemporary, California feel. There was also the social aspect of donabe, which resonates deeply with Connaughton's philosophy of hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One thing I think that is often lost on chefs, especially on western chefs,\" he said, \"is that the focus is so much on the food and the dish, and that there's less consideration of the fact that the guests are there to experience themselves.\" In the case of donabe, he continued, \"it's interactive. You're sharing it together, it brings you closer together, you're serving one another. It's a moment that's extended. There's something comforting about it, and in the environment of the room, it's as if you're in your home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134506\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134506\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room.jpg\" alt=\"The interior design of SingleThread's guest rooms (including the master suite shown here) was a collaboration between Kyle and Katina Connaughton and their friends at the firm AvroKO.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior design of SingleThread's guest rooms (including the master suite shown here) was a collaboration between Kyle and Katina Connaughton and their friends at the firm AvroKO. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of SingleThread)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a brilliant spring afternoon, my wife and I took little time making ourselves at home in SingleThread's master suite, a vast, flowing space with exposed brick walls, soaring redwood-beam ceilings, and a private balcony overlooking Center Street in downtown Healdsburg. The interior design, with its beautiful furnishings and surfaces in a palette of inviting tones, is the product of a close collaboration between the Connaughtons and their friends at AvroKO, the firm responsible for the distinctive look of Eight Tables in San Francisco and numerous other restaurants worldwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Padding around the suite in a pair of complimentary Sasawashi slippers—which have since become an indispensable part of my at-home wardrobe—I perused the in-house literature: the always-enticing guide to the hotels and restaurants in the Relais & Châteaux collection, of which SingleThread is a member; the professional chefs' magazine \u003cem>Art Culinaire\u003c/em>; a collection of photography of Japanese cuisine; and Connaughton's and Takei Moore's book on donabe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The minibar merited a look as well, especially since all of its temptations are included in the stay. Among its most intriguing contents were a SingleThread Domesticated Wild Ale whose Brettanomyces-inflected deliciousness was conceived in collaboration with The Russian River Brewing Company, and SingleThread's own 2017 Chardonnay, made with fruit grown in San Lorenzo in the Russian River Valley and vinified in a concrete vessel at the inn's on-site winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latter we carried home. An utterly different species from the stereotypical, heavily oaked California chardonnay, it was as irresistibly drinkable as it is exclusive—available only in SingleThread's guest rooms, and by the glass or the bottle on the restaurant's wine list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was going on but not quite dinnertime, so I ordered some bubbles and bivalves. A perfectly timed interval later, there was a soft knock on the door, followed by a waiter bearing half a dozen kumamotos on ice in a ceramic bowl whose crackle-glazed surface epitomized the Japanese aesthetic concept of wabi-sabi, and close on his heels, SingleThread's wine director, Evan Hufford, with a 2014 \"Le Montants\" Verzy Grand Cru from Champagne Adrien Renoir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134503\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134503\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster.jpg\" alt=\"Kumamoto oysters with sansho mignonette and kanzuri.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kumamoto oysters with sansho mignonette and kanzuri. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Champagne was a beauty, bright and fruity, with a subtle saline finish. The oysters, for their part, were as plump as they were petite, and we sucked them down with alternating dabs of kanzuri—a spicy-savory chile paste particular to Niigata, Japan—and a mignonette seasoned with sansho, a zingy spice made from the unripe seedpods of the Japanese prickly ash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As dusk turned to dark, dinner got underway at the suite's dining table, with a first course called Early Spring in Sonoma, which consisted of six morsels, each served on a unique ceramic dish. Connaughton later explained that this kind of thing is typical in the prelude to a donabe. \"It's such a hearty thing,\" he said, \"that it's generally preceded by some lighter bites. When we're dining with a family who does donabe, they'll do a course of raw and picked things, and then get into the donabe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so we got into the groove. There was a wedge of simmered young bamboo shoot, its texture somewhat like that of a boiled parsnip, only somewhat more fibrous, with a mildly sweet flavor reminiscent of baby corn. And a small cut of sawara (Spanish mackerel), the flavor of whose pearlescent pink flesh might be mistaken for steak tartare except for the hint of ocean. Nestled in the concavity of another tiny vessel, a pink bay scallop, its creamy sweetness counterposed by the wild tang of a bit of pickled ramp. A small cut of lotus root, braised in something very savory and garnished with sesame seeds, brought a nutty, umami sweetness to the game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finishing it off, a small slice of densely chewy and delicately flavored mejina (rudderfish) curled around some braised konbu and a sliver of the green stem of negi, a type of Japanese onion; and aji (Japanese horse mackerel) garnished with a dot of pickled Indian lime and a pale pinkish-purple chive blossom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second act was a composition called North Coast Tide Pool. Served in a bowl made of exotic-looking, vividly grained wood, it was a minor parade of delicacies: luxuriously fatty slivers of akabana kanpachi (akabana being one of the more mature forms of kanpachi, also known as amberjack), crispy wild seaweeds, and the salty snap of sea beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134504\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134504\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide.jpg 980w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">North Coast Tide Pool course. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Accompanying this course was another hard-to-come-by wine: Domaine Vacheron's L' Enclos des Remparts, Franc de Pied. One hundred percent sauvignon blanc grown in the flinty soils of Sancerre, its softly tart lemon- and tangerine-like flavors went brilliantly with the unctuous fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a logic to all this fishiness, since from among the donabe options—which included American Waygu shabu shabu, pork meatball tan tan, and Kyoto vegetable and housemade tofu—we'd chosen the Hokkaido seafood hotpot. To prepare it, the cooks sweat some ginger and Japanese scallions with sake, mirin ,and a little sesame oil; then add dashi (the versatile Japanese soup stock), then vegetables and tofu; and finally the seafood, which cooks in the brief amount of time it takes the covered donabe to travel from the kitchen to the guest room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set down on the table atop a portable gas burner, the donabe, a lustrous black number from the Nagatani-en pottery, was ready to go. The burner—which was only serving as a pedestal at this point, as the pot was piping hot—would come into play later on to fire up the donabe for the shime (SHE-meh), a finishing course in which rice would be added to the dashi and cooked into a porridge-like concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From above, the Hokkaido hotpot looked like an entirely vegan affair—nothing but the most succulent-looking maitake mushrooms, savoy cabbage, Japanese onions, and watercress as far as the eye could see. The real action was down below, where scallops, mussels and clams hobnobbed with Santa Barbara abalone and prawns, and great big hunks of black cod and king salmon, each bite of which we embellished with one or another condiment, whether kanzuri, chirimen-jako (boiled and dried baby sardines), or spicy-citrusy-salty yuzu kosho.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134513\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments.jpg\" alt=\"The donabe was accompanied by several small, unique ceramic pieces, each with a different condiment.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The donabe was accompanied by several small, unique ceramic pieces, each with a different condiment. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As we slowly made our way through the dish, it became increasingly delicious, the dashi taking on a near-ambrosial quality as the flavors mingled over time, of which there was no shortage, thanks to that rarest of things, a table that was ours, and ours alone, for the duration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/singlethread-in-room-donabe-dinner-2639896590.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"SingleThread celebrates the tradition of donabe with a hearty, in-room dining experience.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1566590455,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":2061},"headData":{"title":"At Singlethread, the Taste of Tradition in a Piping Hot Donabe | KQED","description":"SingleThread celebrates the tradition of donabe with a hearty, in-room dining experience.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"At Singlethread, the Taste of Tradition in a Piping Hot Donabe","datePublished":"2019-08-23T20:00:55.000Z","dateModified":"2019-08-23T20:00:55.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134496 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134496","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/08/23/at-singlethread-the-taste-of-tradition-in-a-piping-hot-donabe/","disqusTitle":"At Singlethread, the Taste of Tradition in a Piping Hot Donabe","path":"/bayareabites/134496/at-singlethread-the-taste-of-tradition-in-a-piping-hot-donabe","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>by Nick Czap\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_133841,bayareabites_124357","label":"More SingleThread News "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nDonabe (doh-NAH-bay) is a kind of traditional Japanese clay cookware that is used over an open flame. The word is made from the Kanji characters do (\"clay\") and nabe (\"pot\"). The most sought-after donabe are made in Iga, a province 210 miles southwest of Tokyo, where, for nearly 1,300 years, potters have been transforming the local clay into vessels, and firing them in kilns fed by wood from the region's red pine forests. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes donabe from Iga so desirable is their porosity, a result of the fact that Iga's clay—dug from the remains of an ancient lake bed—is full of fossilized microorganisms that burn up in the heat of the kiln, leaving tiny air pockets which enhance the pottery's ability to retain heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kyle Connaughton developed a keen appreciation for the thermal properties of donabe long before he and his wife, Katina, opened the critically acclaimed restaurant and inn, \u003ca href=\"https://www.singlethreadfarms.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">SingleThread\u003c/a>, in Healdsburg. In the early 2000s, Connaughton was living with his family in a tiny coastal village on Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost island, having moved there to work for Michel Bras, who had recently opened a restaurant in a hotel situated between Lake Toya and Uchiura Bay. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Katina, meanwhile, found work at a number of cooperative farms, where she discovered the passion for agriculture that would eventually lead to her current career, running the farm that supplies a multitude of vegetables, fruits, and other products to SingleThread's kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134500\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134500\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x.jpg\" alt=\"SingleThread in Healdsburg, CA.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/980x-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SingleThread in Healdsburg, CA. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of SingleThread)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003csmall class=\"image-media media-photo-credit\">\u003c/small>\"Hokkaido is the Alaska of Japan,\" said Connaughton. \"It's off the coast of Siberia. The winters are long and very cold. We lived in a two-story townhouse and only had one small kerosene heater, which just didn't do the job. Donabe cooking was such a big part of how people live. You have a little burner, you have your hotpot running, and it's a very warm, filling, hearty meal. And the hotpot warms the whole house.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2011, Connaughton traveled to Iga to learn more about donabe. His guide was Naoko Takei Moore, a Tokyo native who had once been his pupil at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. Takei Moore, who currently lives in Los Angeles, imports Iga donabe to the States, selling them through her company, \u003ca href=\"https://toirokitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Toiro\u003c/a>, which she founded in 2008.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Naoko is really an expert on donabe cooking,\" said Connaughton, \"although she's more oriented in home cooking than on the professional side. She's been my guide to the world of different donabe and how to use them. I knew dishes from where we lived on Hokkaido, but on a professional level I'd never thought much about it. It's funny, because I started as her culinary school teacher, and she became my teacher.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Takei Moore introduced Connaughton to the Nagatani family, whose artisanal pottery, Natagani-en, was founded in Iga in 1832. At Takei Moore's suggestion, the two collaborated on \u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/239329/donabe-by-naoko-takei-moore-and-kyle-connaughton/9781607746997/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">a book\u003c/a> that explores the history, craft, and culture of donabe, as well as a multitude of traditional and modern recipes that can be stewed, braised, poached, or smoked in the versatile clay pots. Beautifully illustrated by the photographer Eric Wolfinger, it's an edifying, hunger-inducing read.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast.jpg\" alt=\"A donabe made an appearance at breakfast the following morning, in SingleThread's Japanese Breakfast.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-japanese-breakfast-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A donabe made an appearance at breakfast the following morning, in SingleThread's Japanese Breakfast. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since opening SingleThread in December 2016, Connaughton had been pondering the idea of an in-room dining experience. Guests who stay at the inn a single night always eat at the restaurant, which in late 2018 was awarded three Michelin stars. For guests who stayed longer, Connaughton wanted to offer an alternative to the restaurant's 11-course tasting menu, which doesn't change from one evening to the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like the idea that the room has its own unique experience, like a secret menu,\" he continued, \"and that there's no other way to have that experience than to come and stay.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea of using donabe appealed to Connaughton on a number of levels. From a service perspective, donabe had certain advantages, namely their easy portability and their ability to keep food hot. There were other considerations as well, among them the desire to share something from his background in traditional Japanese cooking, in contrast to the food served at the restaurant, which has more of a contemporary, California feel. There was also the social aspect of donabe, which resonates deeply with Connaughton's philosophy of hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One thing I think that is often lost on chefs, especially on western chefs,\" he said, \"is that the focus is so much on the food and the dish, and that there's less consideration of the fact that the guests are there to experience themselves.\" In the case of donabe, he continued, \"it's interactive. You're sharing it together, it brings you closer together, you're serving one another. It's a moment that's extended. There's something comforting about it, and in the environment of the room, it's as if you're in your home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134506\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134506\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room.jpg\" alt=\"The interior design of SingleThread's guest rooms (including the master suite shown here) was a collaboration between Kyle and Katina Connaughton and their friends at the firm AvroKO.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/room-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The interior design of SingleThread's guest rooms (including the master suite shown here) was a collaboration between Kyle and Katina Connaughton and their friends at the firm AvroKO. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of SingleThread)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a brilliant spring afternoon, my wife and I took little time making ourselves at home in SingleThread's master suite, a vast, flowing space with exposed brick walls, soaring redwood-beam ceilings, and a private balcony overlooking Center Street in downtown Healdsburg. The interior design, with its beautiful furnishings and surfaces in a palette of inviting tones, is the product of a close collaboration between the Connaughtons and their friends at AvroKO, the firm responsible for the distinctive look of Eight Tables in San Francisco and numerous other restaurants worldwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Padding around the suite in a pair of complimentary Sasawashi slippers—which have since become an indispensable part of my at-home wardrobe—I perused the in-house literature: the always-enticing guide to the hotels and restaurants in the Relais & Châteaux collection, of which SingleThread is a member; the professional chefs' magazine \u003cem>Art Culinaire\u003c/em>; a collection of photography of Japanese cuisine; and Connaughton's and Takei Moore's book on donabe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The minibar merited a look as well, especially since all of its temptations are included in the stay. Among its most intriguing contents were a SingleThread Domesticated Wild Ale whose Brettanomyces-inflected deliciousness was conceived in collaboration with The Russian River Brewing Company, and SingleThread's own 2017 Chardonnay, made with fruit grown in San Lorenzo in the Russian River Valley and vinified in a concrete vessel at the inn's on-site winery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latter we carried home. An utterly different species from the stereotypical, heavily oaked California chardonnay, it was as irresistibly drinkable as it is exclusive—available only in SingleThread's guest rooms, and by the glass or the bottle on the restaurant's wine list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was going on but not quite dinnertime, so I ordered some bubbles and bivalves. A perfectly timed interval later, there was a soft knock on the door, followed by a waiter bearing half a dozen kumamotos on ice in a ceramic bowl whose crackle-glazed surface epitomized the Japanese aesthetic concept of wabi-sabi, and close on his heels, SingleThread's wine director, Evan Hufford, with a 2014 \"Le Montants\" Verzy Grand Cru from Champagne Adrien Renoir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134503\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134503\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster.jpg\" alt=\"Kumamoto oysters with sansho mignonette and kanzuri.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/oyster-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kumamoto oysters with sansho mignonette and kanzuri. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Champagne was a beauty, bright and fruity, with a subtle saline finish. The oysters, for their part, were as plump as they were petite, and we sucked them down with alternating dabs of kanzuri—a spicy-savory chile paste particular to Niigata, Japan—and a mignonette seasoned with sansho, a zingy spice made from the unripe seedpods of the Japanese prickly ash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As dusk turned to dark, dinner got underway at the suite's dining table, with a first course called Early Spring in Sonoma, which consisted of six morsels, each served on a unique ceramic dish. Connaughton later explained that this kind of thing is typical in the prelude to a donabe. \"It's such a hearty thing,\" he said, \"that it's generally preceded by some lighter bites. When we're dining with a family who does donabe, they'll do a course of raw and picked things, and then get into the donabe.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so we got into the groove. There was a wedge of simmered young bamboo shoot, its texture somewhat like that of a boiled parsnip, only somewhat more fibrous, with a mildly sweet flavor reminiscent of baby corn. And a small cut of sawara (Spanish mackerel), the flavor of whose pearlescent pink flesh might be mistaken for steak tartare except for the hint of ocean. Nestled in the concavity of another tiny vessel, a pink bay scallop, its creamy sweetness counterposed by the wild tang of a bit of pickled ramp. A small cut of lotus root, braised in something very savory and garnished with sesame seeds, brought a nutty, umami sweetness to the game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finishing it off, a small slice of densely chewy and delicately flavored mejina (rudderfish) curled around some braised konbu and a sliver of the green stem of negi, a type of Japanese onion; and aji (Japanese horse mackerel) garnished with a dot of pickled Indian lime and a pale pinkish-purple chive blossom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second act was a composition called North Coast Tide Pool. Served in a bowl made of exotic-looking, vividly grained wood, it was a minor parade of delicacies: luxuriously fatty slivers of akabana kanpachi (akabana being one of the more mature forms of kanpachi, also known as amberjack), crispy wild seaweeds, and the salty snap of sea beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134504\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-134504\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/north-coast-tide.jpg 980w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">North Coast Tide Pool course. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Accompanying this course was another hard-to-come-by wine: Domaine Vacheron's L' Enclos des Remparts, Franc de Pied. One hundred percent sauvignon blanc grown in the flinty soils of Sancerre, its softly tart lemon- and tangerine-like flavors went brilliantly with the unctuous fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a logic to all this fishiness, since from among the donabe options—which included American Waygu shabu shabu, pork meatball tan tan, and Kyoto vegetable and housemade tofu—we'd chosen the Hokkaido seafood hotpot. To prepare it, the cooks sweat some ginger and Japanese scallions with sake, mirin ,and a little sesame oil; then add dashi (the versatile Japanese soup stock), then vegetables and tofu; and finally the seafood, which cooks in the brief amount of time it takes the covered donabe to travel from the kitchen to the guest room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set down on the table atop a portable gas burner, the donabe, a lustrous black number from the Nagatani-en pottery, was ready to go. The burner—which was only serving as a pedestal at this point, as the pot was piping hot—would come into play later on to fire up the donabe for the shime (SHE-meh), a finishing course in which rice would be added to the dashi and cooked into a porridge-like concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From above, the Hokkaido hotpot looked like an entirely vegan affair—nothing but the most succulent-looking maitake mushrooms, savoy cabbage, Japanese onions, and watercress as far as the eye could see. The real action was down below, where scallops, mussels and clams hobnobbed with Santa Barbara abalone and prawns, and great big hunks of black cod and king salmon, each bite of which we embellished with one or another condiment, whether kanzuri, chirimen-jako (boiled and dried baby sardines), or spicy-citrusy-salty yuzu kosho.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134513\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments.jpg\" alt=\"The donabe was accompanied by several small, unique ceramic pieces, each with a different condiment.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/singlethread-donabe-accompaniments-condiments-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The donabe was accompanied by several small, unique ceramic pieces, each with a different condiment. \u003ccite>(Nick Czap)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As we slowly made our way through the dish, it became increasingly delicious, the dashi taking on a near-ambrosial quality as the flavors mingled over time, of which there was no shortage, thanks to that rarest of things, a table that was ours, and ours alone, for the duration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/singlethread-in-room-donabe-dinner-2639896590.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134496/at-singlethread-the-taste-of-tradition-in-a-piping-hot-donabe","authors":["11590"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_15156"],"tags":["bayareabites_3328","bayareabites_10422","bayareabites_3472","bayareabites_9856"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134498","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_128414":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_128414","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"128414","score":null,"sort":[1527177881000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore","title":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore","publishDate":1527177881,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of that outrageously talented friend or colleague or family member in your life who is truly a Renaissance man or woman…you know, the one who is just so great at so many things from tennis to yoga to coding to playing the cello, and is a complete fountain of knowledge for everything from fixing dishwashers to knowing which Goethe poem is the best? Well, as far as restaurant-market-café-larders go in San Francisco, the closest equivalent is Merchant Roots, an eminently charming addition to the \u003ca href=\"http://statebirdsf.com/home/\">State Bird Provisions\u003c/a> side of Fillmore on the thoroughfare’s rapidly growing dining stretch south of Geary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to give a blanket label for this concept, long in the making by business and life partners Ryan Shelton and Madison Michael. There really is nothing quite like it in the Bay Area. You can come for a homemade scone and a cup of coffee at 9am. You can feel free to drop by for a plate of pasta (yes, homemade) and a glass of Prosecco to treat yourself to a late afternoon lunch feast. You can pick up a kale and chicken salad or a sandwich (on homemade focaccia, obviously) to-go en route to catching the 38R on Geary. You can buy dry or wet pasta for dinner at home and pair it with a bottle from the under-the-radar wine boutique that is tucked in the far corner of the tiny Merchant Roots space. Then there are homemade soaps, sipping chocolate mixes, homemade jams, freshly baked quiche slices…we could go on. Then the next stage of the project, \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>, comes in a few weeks as the next marquee tasting menu for a rapidly growing category in San Francisco, except this one might be considered the most whimsical — and intimate — of the elite bunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128492\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128492\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this resides in a 1000–square foot space that somehow manages to feel spacious and not seem cluttered whatsoever. Yes, it’s all pretty overwhelming but also so relaxed and calm when you step inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest comparison for Merchant Roots is \u003ca href=\"https://www.brooklynfare.com/pages/chefs-table\">Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare\u003c/a> in New York, a casual shop in the daytime and ambitious tasting menu in the nighttime hybrid that has received global accolades for its inventiveness. Healdsburg has \u003ca href=\"https://healdsburgshed.com/\">SHED\u003c/a> but that so-called “grange” is about 10 times bigger than Merchant Roots and has a twee-bucolic lifestyle theme that strikes many as precious with its fermentation lab, quinoa salads and rather pricey kitchen tools. In the end, they’re vaguely related but really hard to directly compare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing every guest notices while walking by Merchant Roots is the window’s eye-catching hand-painted sign by Bay Area artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/coolhandken/\">Ken Davis\u003c/a> that sets the tone for the shop’s contemporary interpretation of retro design inside. It could easily be a sign for a blacksmith shop in the Wild West, but also seems hip. It’s timeless and elegant cursive with artistic flair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then your eyes wander past the sign into the actual window where sous chef David Hamilton-Kidd will surely be rolling out pasta dough or cranking dough through the Torchio hand-press pasta maker. Fillmore pedestrians stop by, planned or unplanned nowadays, to watch the pasta making process like how people go window browsing around Union Square come Christmas time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Izd0upkwbYY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stepping inside, chances are high that your attention will immediately drift towards the gorgeous pastry case, where immaculate chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends and chocolate-dipped almond and anise biscotti ($3) beckon. You might be tempted by a muffin version of carrot cake with a ricotta cream cheese stuffing ($4) on one day and then a perfect slice of springtime via a strawberry and almond cream tart ($6) on the next visit. There usually will be doughnuts, perhaps a simple old-fashioned on one pedestal and a coconut-lime one made of mochi and milk dough, dusted with coconut flakes and lime zest ($3) on another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upon press time, the bakers were still perfecting a gluten-free brownie recipe but you can count on that being a major hit when it premiers soon because this town sure loves it’s gluten-free treats that actually taste as good as their flour-filled equivalents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg\" alt=\"Showstopper chocolate chip cookies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showstopper chocolate chip cookies. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, the showstopper of the crew is the chocolate chip cookie ($3) that takes the chocolate part very seriously. It’s Michael’s recipe and she is adamant about making sure that the cookie is thick and soft, but not overly doughy or cumbersome, with a just a smidge of crunch at the outer edges. You’ll certainly taste the butter in the cookie — there’s a lot of it. But, what you probably didn’t guess is that it’s actually brown cultured butter mixed with equal parts muscovado sugar and regular sugar that give it a certain alluringly sharp sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other major catch with the recipe is that Michael insists on the composition being more chocolate than cookie. That means there should be about 1.5 \u003ca href=\"https://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> dark chocolate wafers per cookie but you’ll see some cookies where that figure looks more like 3. Nobody will complain, though. A finish of fleur de sel tops what is no doubt going to be a contender in the competitive “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie” debates of San Francisco. Cookie Monster strongly approves of this new entry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg\" alt=\"Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is nothing wrong with having muffins and cookies for lunch but you’ll need real lunch food at some point. The aforementioned housemade focaccia serves as a base for a pair of sandwiches (termed sando) ($9). One is a fascinating shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot number where the shaved vegetable looks like slices of lox and comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/point-reyes-toma\">Pt. Reyes Toma cheese\u003c/a> and raisin jam. That same semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Marin joins tangy \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortadella\">mortadella\u003c/a> slices with arugula and Bavarian mustard in the other sandwich. Both are simple, precise and filling without being heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads include ever-trendy kale leaves lightly coated with preserved lemon vinaigrette. Shelton finishes it with chicken and Parmigiano Reggiano for a satisfying but virtuous midday meal ($13; $10 without chicken). Moroccan chicken salad is a completely different styled offering ($14) and brings together cashews, crispy chickpeas, yogurt and citrus-mint vinaigrette. Venturing beyond salads and sandwiches, Shelton has a little fun with an “everything” spiced, cream cheese and smoked salmon-topped quiche with a potato crust ($12). It’s a bagel and latke-minded quiche. Somebody is having fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128452\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are packaged to-go and all of them and the quiche are also available for enjoying plated in the café. Sandwiches, meanwhile, are all packaged to-go but can be consumed in Merchant Roots’ environs, along with being toasted on the spot. It’s a smart idea to have flexibility between takeout and eating-in because the lunch crowd can vary in a more residential-centered strip like this one. Future plans also call for a breakfast sandwich and a fried mortadella sando meant for dining in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re lingering for lunch, though, the must-try house meal really is the pasta, as the pasta making in the window might suggest. It’s Shelton’s specialty and one he has been fanatical about for life since being a boy growing up in San Jose as part of an Italian-American family. The enterprise could simply be Pasta Roots (or Semolina + Water?) for how important pasta is to the operation and how skilled Shelton is at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a pasta-crazed town as is proven by the dozens of Cal-Ital restaurants and even more informal red sauce and pizza joints. But, who makes their own dry and fresh pasta, pairs it with homemade sauces for enjoying in-house, and also sells both the sauces and pastas retail for you to make your own version at home? It’s definitely a tiny niche and this is a welcome addition to the diminutive club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128468\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade tomato chele pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade tomato chele pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find a handful of pastas each day on the “daily pastas” menu for freshly prepared lunch dishes. The early must-order is tomato chele ($24), shaped similarly to an unstuffed small tortellini, with just the right amount of indentations and curves to hold its sauce teammate, a lobster reduction made from the juice of lobster heads where their tails have been used as meat. Shelton finishes the dish lobster roll-style with curls of celery and buttered brioche “croutons” evoking the roll’s usual hot dog bun. Of course, the brioche is homemade, being surplus brioche from doughnut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128485\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128485\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere in the pasta neighborhood, spaghettine made on the chitarra (like a small string harp) is joined by hen ragu ($11), while ricotta cavatelli are snap pea-glazed and accompanied by lemon mascarpone and smoked prosciutto ($13). Gargatti (think short caterpillars) comes with spring vegetables and a confit tomato crema “parma rossa” sauce ($13). Sometimes there is even chilled pasta like gnochetti with pesto, roasted peppers and red onion ($9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Shelton will be serving his own charcuterie made at his commissary in the Mission (seriously, how do they make pasta, charcuterie AND pastries with with just Shelton, Michael, Hamilton-Kidd and sous chef Adriana Fleming handling almost of the day-to-day duties for the whole operation?). For now, he’s offering a charcuterie platter sourced from elsewhere ($16) and a cheese plate ($17) with good friend Eric Miller of Mission Cheese helping as a fromage whisperer/advisor. A combination of the two ($20) is also offered. On the cheese side for the combo, Pt. Reyes Toma comes with the ever popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/library-of-cheese/mt-tam\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam\u003c/a> and gooey, funky \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comt%C3%A9_cheese\">Comté\u003c/a> from France. The cured meats include pâté de campagne, speck from \u003ca href=\"http://www.redtablemeatco.com/\">Red Table\u003c/a> in Minneapolis and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soppressata\">sopressata\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.framani.com/\">Fra’Mani\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese and Charcuterie Plate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese and Charcuterie Plate \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this is very daytime-oriented food that is friendly on the wallet and has a universal appeal for all ages. Who doesn’t love a good cookie or plate of pasta? We’re all getting tired of restaurants and food makers calling themselves “craft” and “artisanal” but that is what sets Merchant Roots’ grocer component apart. There is that special homemade touch that makes nothing taste watered down. These are indeed artisan products and dishes by experts who know their way around a great doughnut and kale salad…and also know how to put on a lavish, avant-garde tasting menu feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that’s where \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong> comes into the picture, arriving in the next few weeks (probably in June). The Table is literally a monkeypod table that is used for casual communal dining during the day and will be an intimate eight-seat, one sitting dinner setting three nights a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Table at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128671\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Table at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There really is nothing like the daytime grocer part but there isn’t anything quite like the atypical, constantly evolving and bizarre nature of what Shelton and Michael are pursuing with The Table. The experience will be centered on various themes that go well beyond a time and place like the tableaus for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nextrestaurant.com/\">Next\u003c/a> in Chicago. The opening theme for The Table is “Elements” and runs nine courses from a yuzu sorbet rock for “moon” to an outrageously creative cotton candy and mint chocolate ganache “comet.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To give you an idea of how advanced these dishes are, one “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” That’s not all. The classic steak or prime rib sauces of horseradish cream and red wine demi-glace find their way onto the log. Yes, the log. The serving platter is probably even more noteworthy than anything for this one dish. Shelton made 10 of the log platters by heavily charring the gnarly wood over several weeks to the point that they were fully pitch black and then stained them to keep the striking, even haunting appearance in place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128471\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg\" alt=\"One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is just one course on one short-lived menu, but is a great reflection of the ambition on display and the ample creativity. The other bonus worth pointing out is that the opening $110 price tag per diner, while not at all cheap, is far below the total for its peers. The size and price of the menu will slightly fluctuate but several will stay in this format. Future menu themes include “Vanity Fair,” featuring everything ornate and gold-plated, and “Mermaids” with each dish literally made from sea ingredients all the way down to a bread that seems like a sourdough-fish sticks crossover. It’s made of kelp paste, haddock pureé and coconut flour (no yeast, just coconut flour paste that is inoculated over time with indigenous yeast!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clever? Mad scientist? Artist? Genius? Restless chef who is happy to be independent? Renaissance man?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shelton pretty much wears all those hats as Executive Chef/Proprietor and with Michael as Proprietress/co-pilot for the adventurous business plan. That’s the best way to understand how the grocer and The Table concepts both came about and why they can work in this particular situation. Look at their resumes and you’ll see how all of this can fit under one compact roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton is a trained pastry chef and was the lead Pastry Chef for Mountain View’s esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://cheztj.com/\">chez TJ\u003c/a>. His original South Bay home region then continued as the base for his culinary experience with time on the savory side as Chef de Cuisine at the molecular gastronomy-centric \u003ca href=\"http://www.maisonbaume.com/\">Baumé\u003c/a> in Palo Alto, followed by a short period as Executive Chef at (the now closed) Le Cigare Volant restaurant at Boony Doon Winery’s tasting room in Santa Cruz. His permanent career and residential move to San Francisco led him to Polk Street where he was Executive Chef for the highly rated but short-lived Verbena and its short-lived tenure as Reverb Kitchen & Bar (it’s now \u003ca href=\"http://www.mezcalitosf.com/\">Mezcalito\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael’s background is more in beverages as a certified sommelier and includes time working at bars like The Thomas in Napa (since closed) and the sensational Kauai tiki bar, \u003ca href=\"http://tikiiniki.com/\">Tiki Iniki\u003c/a>, in addition to restaurants with strong wine and bar programs like \u003ca href=\"http://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a> and Verbena/Reverb. But, she’s also gifted at a whole array of other food-oriented crafts and actually a certified cheese expert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for Merchant Roots’ grocer side has been in Shelton’s mind for many years but the wheels were truly set in motion after he and Michael worked 100 days straight at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/3/24/8283513/verbena-quietly-shifts-concept-will-re-open-this-week-as-reverb\">Reverb\u003c/a> — only to see the restaurant then close. Both knew that a sustainable quality of life had to be part of the equation for their personal project, an idea that sadly isn’t seen much in the restaurant and bar industry. So, Michael thought about the three-night-a-week Table to go with the five-day-a-week grocer as a balanced solution with their personal lives (Michael has a nine-year old son) and diverse talents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Michael’s chocolate chip cookie contribution may one day lead to a Cookie Roots spin-off but many of her contributions to Merchant Roots could honestly have their own spin-off. The most obvious, of course, would be the wine shop component. It will grow to have 84 labels of engaging wines from notable (mostly younger and less “famous”) producers in California, France, Spain, Italy and some of the lesser-known regions at home and abroad. Think of it as a wine-choosing app but…with the human concierge already making tough decisions for you. San Francisco isn’t lacking in great wine boutiques but several of the celebrated ones (K&L, Flatiron) can be daunting to navigate with too many choices and not enough help. Labels at Merchant Roots have standouts from the new California Wine front (Broc, Matthiasson) but also the equivalent upstart game-changers in Europe like Le Macchiole and Peter Later. Michael doesn’t delve into the pricey trophy wines of Napa and Bordeaux, and does keep value-minded options kindly in mind with a surprising number of enjoyable $10-$15 wines on hand. If you’re staying at the shop for lunch, a half-dozen of the wines are poured by-the-glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128491\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Larder\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Larder \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The larder on the wall opposite is also largely Michael’s domain. She makes preserves (all $7) in all sorts of tempting bright colors and flavors that are already at the top of the very small list of San Francisco-made jams, marmalades and jellies. A jar of mandarin jelly combines satsumas and clementines, while the yuzu marmalade features citrus rind and Navel orange. Right now in the heart of spring, there’s a rhubarb-pear jam and a Meyer lemon jam featuring whole pulp in the mix for an extra sweet and sour punch. Hopefully those jams will be served on toast one day (this is San Francisco, after all) but for now you can at least find the rhubarb jam dotting the cheese plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128488\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Merchant Roots jam\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merchant Roots jam \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salts in the larder are mixed in-house and will tempt home cooks just as much as the preserves. The roster of salts goes well beyond the ubiquitous sea salt with Elemental salt (eucalyptus, Szechuan peppercorn, volcanic salt, lemon) and Sicilian salt (Calabrian chile, oregano, rosemary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128496\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128496\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg\" alt=\"Salts in the larder are mixed in-house.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salts in the larder are mixed in-house. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, there are the soaps. Yes, soaps. Michael cleverly uses all cooking quality ingredients (coconut oil, avocado oil for example) to make the intensely fragrant soaps that make up their own line called “Milk & Raven.” Dare we say that we almost want to eat them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128487\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find drinking chocolate at the larder, hailing from Santa Cruz. It’s one of the few things not made at Merchant Roots but don’t start calling out Shelton and Michael for this. The high caffeine, intensely concentrated flavors of the mixes are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mutarichocolate.com/\">Mutari Chocolate\u003c/a>, a true master of the art and his products are hard to find in SF. The larder’s teas come from Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://leavesandflowers.com/\">Leaves and Flowers\u003c/a> and are available to be enjoyed in-house brews. It’s worth noting that coffee for enjoying only in-house comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> of Oakland and there actually is a hidden espresso maker if you ask for a cappuccino. Yes, this might be San Francisco’s first espresso speakeasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merchant Roots’ home is as adorable as the concept itself, thanks mostly to a large woven fiber art piece (Instagram alert!) by local weaver \u003ca href=\"https://www.meghanshimek.com/\">Meghan Bogden Shimek\u003c/a>. Foldable café tables are attached to the fiber piece’s wall (those tables will be collapsed for dinner service) and have extremely comfortable copper wire chairs draped with faux furs for sitting in. The Table itself resides between the art piece wall and the wine wall. Do note that The Table’s utensils won’t skimp on the luxurious quality with pottery by Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://koidestudio.com/index.html\">Kiyomi Kiode\u003c/a> and ferociously delicate and refined wine glasses by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sophienwald.com/en/\">Sophienwald\u003c/a> of Austria. And, yes this doesn’t seem like a WiFi kind of place and you’re right about that. Leave the laptop at home or bring the hot spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg\" alt=\"Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unfairly, Merchant Roots has become the answer to an inside joke within the restaurant industry for substantial opening delays. Restaurants and bars in San Francisco are routinely delayed for the city’s notorious permitting challenges and out of control expensive prices for virtually everything. Folks in the industry sometimes say, “Yes, that restaurant is taking forever to open but it’s not Merchant Roots-level delayed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s definitely not Shelton and Michael’s fault. The over yearlong delay from the original ETA is a smorgasbord of San Francisco restaurateur challenges. One that diners don’t often think about played a key part in adding the delay — construction crews favoring the thicker wallets of wealthier investment-backed restaurants (we won’t name names). Is this where San Francisco dining is going? Can independent restaurants be helped?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This part of Fillmore Street was historically filled with black-owned shops and restaurants, along with the jazz clubs that made this the Fillmore Jazz District. Except, there are basically no jazz clubs or black-owned businesses here anymore. One of the last ones of the corridor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Fillmore-singing-blues-over-jazz-district-6747312.php?utm_campaign=sfgate&utm_source=article&utm_medium=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.sfgate.com%252Finsidescoop%252Farticle%252FThe-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php%253Ft%253D157de05c32\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a>, had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/The-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php?t=157de05c32\">relocate\u003c/a>. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman just wrote an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Fernay-McPherson-and-the-movement-that-found-12907544.php\">excellent profile about this neighborhood\u003c/a> and this sad realization for the Fillmore’s demographics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s an unfortunate change for the neighborhood, albeit one that is very reflective of Divisadero just up the hill. Both are getting increasingly gentrified like their glossy nearby peers of Hayes Valley and Fillmore in Lower Pacific Heights. Yes, this is San Francisco 2018 and we could talk all day about gentrification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, this is a story about how the newer food businesses on Fillmore all started as small business concepts and have grown into thriving projects that should be celebrated. Wise Sons, Boba Guys and State Bird Provisions all weren’t glitzy or deep money-backed when they first opened. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatangelsf.com/\">Fat Angel\u003c/a> was the very first of Hi Neighbor’s restaurants and still isn’t very well-known beyond its regulars. Avery’s chef-partner Rodney Wages went through the ringer at many top kitchens in order to start a pop-up that morphed into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>. These restaurateurs worked hard to become names known citywide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton and Michael are no different — remember that 100 days we mentioned? They sure know this industry all too well. On the side, the two have even been offering doughnut and pasta making classes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.cozymeal.com/chefs/788/chef-ryan\">Cozymeal\u003c/a> not just because it’s fun but also to make money. (Full disclosure: this writer took a pasta making class from Shelton and is now at least not awful at the difficult art). They also do high-volume catering and various other projects because, hey, when your business isn’t making money in this pricey city, how do you make money?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, both have no shortage of talent, imagination or desire to fulfill their hopes. Shelton even has a tattoo of Merchant Roots’ 1365 address in roman numerals (MCCCLXV) and a tattoo of a quail, the California state bird. The chef certainly really cares about this project and where this project calls home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128489\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128489\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Restaurateurs and entrepreneurs like Shelton and Michael champion two universally beloved things in this city, whether you’re a techie millennial or lived here 55 years: bighearted small businesses that really focus on doing a few things and doing them extremely well; and clean, high quality food. A few modern tastes find their way into Merchant Roots (kale!) but there’s also a circa 1900 era vintage sausage stuffer and a small town, everybody is welcome vibe. It’s delicious, upbeat and family-friendly — heck, even dogs will appreciate the upcoming unveiling of peanut butter raviolis for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, Shelton and Michael are doing what they want to do and luckily for diners, they do it really, really well. You can’t help but root for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantroots.com/\">\u003cstrong>Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Merchant+Roots/@37.7821316,-122.4348981,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580bbd4c63a77:0xf77eb4da52eaec2!8m2!3d37.7821274!4d-122.4327041\">1365 Fillmore St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/merchantroots/?hl=en\">@merchantroots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/merchantroots/\"> Merchant Roots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MerchantRoots\">@MerchantRoots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; The Table will serve dinner Thursday-Saturday\u003cbr>\nPrice: The Shop: $-$$; The Table: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530251457,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":47,"wordCount":4384},"headData":{"title":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore | KQED","description":"With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore","datePublished":"2018-05-24T16:04:41.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T05:50:57.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"128414 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=128414","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/24/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore/","disqusTitle":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of that outrageously talented friend or colleague or family member in your life who is truly a Renaissance man or woman…you know, the one who is just so great at so many things from tennis to yoga to coding to playing the cello, and is a complete fountain of knowledge for everything from fixing dishwashers to knowing which Goethe poem is the best? Well, as far as restaurant-market-café-larders go in San Francisco, the closest equivalent is Merchant Roots, an eminently charming addition to the \u003ca href=\"http://statebirdsf.com/home/\">State Bird Provisions\u003c/a> side of Fillmore on the thoroughfare’s rapidly growing dining stretch south of Geary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to give a blanket label for this concept, long in the making by business and life partners Ryan Shelton and Madison Michael. There really is nothing quite like it in the Bay Area. You can come for a homemade scone and a cup of coffee at 9am. You can feel free to drop by for a plate of pasta (yes, homemade) and a glass of Prosecco to treat yourself to a late afternoon lunch feast. You can pick up a kale and chicken salad or a sandwich (on homemade focaccia, obviously) to-go en route to catching the 38R on Geary. You can buy dry or wet pasta for dinner at home and pair it with a bottle from the under-the-radar wine boutique that is tucked in the far corner of the tiny Merchant Roots space. Then there are homemade soaps, sipping chocolate mixes, homemade jams, freshly baked quiche slices…we could go on. Then the next stage of the project, \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>, comes in a few weeks as the next marquee tasting menu for a rapidly growing category in San Francisco, except this one might be considered the most whimsical — and intimate — of the elite bunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128492\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128492\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this resides in a 1000–square foot space that somehow manages to feel spacious and not seem cluttered whatsoever. Yes, it’s all pretty overwhelming but also so relaxed and calm when you step inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest comparison for Merchant Roots is \u003ca href=\"https://www.brooklynfare.com/pages/chefs-table\">Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare\u003c/a> in New York, a casual shop in the daytime and ambitious tasting menu in the nighttime hybrid that has received global accolades for its inventiveness. Healdsburg has \u003ca href=\"https://healdsburgshed.com/\">SHED\u003c/a> but that so-called “grange” is about 10 times bigger than Merchant Roots and has a twee-bucolic lifestyle theme that strikes many as precious with its fermentation lab, quinoa salads and rather pricey kitchen tools. In the end, they’re vaguely related but really hard to directly compare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing every guest notices while walking by Merchant Roots is the window’s eye-catching hand-painted sign by Bay Area artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/coolhandken/\">Ken Davis\u003c/a> that sets the tone for the shop’s contemporary interpretation of retro design inside. It could easily be a sign for a blacksmith shop in the Wild West, but also seems hip. It’s timeless and elegant cursive with artistic flair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then your eyes wander past the sign into the actual window where sous chef David Hamilton-Kidd will surely be rolling out pasta dough or cranking dough through the Torchio hand-press pasta maker. Fillmore pedestrians stop by, planned or unplanned nowadays, to watch the pasta making process like how people go window browsing around Union Square come Christmas time.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Izd0upkwbYY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Izd0upkwbYY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>After stepping inside, chances are high that your attention will immediately drift towards the gorgeous pastry case, where immaculate chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends and chocolate-dipped almond and anise biscotti ($3) beckon. You might be tempted by a muffin version of carrot cake with a ricotta cream cheese stuffing ($4) on one day and then a perfect slice of springtime via a strawberry and almond cream tart ($6) on the next visit. There usually will be doughnuts, perhaps a simple old-fashioned on one pedestal and a coconut-lime one made of mochi and milk dough, dusted with coconut flakes and lime zest ($3) on another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upon press time, the bakers were still perfecting a gluten-free brownie recipe but you can count on that being a major hit when it premiers soon because this town sure loves it’s gluten-free treats that actually taste as good as their flour-filled equivalents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg\" alt=\"Showstopper chocolate chip cookies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showstopper chocolate chip cookies. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, the showstopper of the crew is the chocolate chip cookie ($3) that takes the chocolate part very seriously. It’s Michael’s recipe and she is adamant about making sure that the cookie is thick and soft, but not overly doughy or cumbersome, with a just a smidge of crunch at the outer edges. You’ll certainly taste the butter in the cookie — there’s a lot of it. But, what you probably didn’t guess is that it’s actually brown cultured butter mixed with equal parts muscovado sugar and regular sugar that give it a certain alluringly sharp sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other major catch with the recipe is that Michael insists on the composition being more chocolate than cookie. That means there should be about 1.5 \u003ca href=\"https://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> dark chocolate wafers per cookie but you’ll see some cookies where that figure looks more like 3. Nobody will complain, though. A finish of fleur de sel tops what is no doubt going to be a contender in the competitive “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie” debates of San Francisco. Cookie Monster strongly approves of this new entry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg\" alt=\"Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is nothing wrong with having muffins and cookies for lunch but you’ll need real lunch food at some point. The aforementioned housemade focaccia serves as a base for a pair of sandwiches (termed sando) ($9). One is a fascinating shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot number where the shaved vegetable looks like slices of lox and comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/point-reyes-toma\">Pt. Reyes Toma cheese\u003c/a> and raisin jam. That same semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Marin joins tangy \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortadella\">mortadella\u003c/a> slices with arugula and Bavarian mustard in the other sandwich. Both are simple, precise and filling without being heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads include ever-trendy kale leaves lightly coated with preserved lemon vinaigrette. Shelton finishes it with chicken and Parmigiano Reggiano for a satisfying but virtuous midday meal ($13; $10 without chicken). Moroccan chicken salad is a completely different styled offering ($14) and brings together cashews, crispy chickpeas, yogurt and citrus-mint vinaigrette. Venturing beyond salads and sandwiches, Shelton has a little fun with an “everything” spiced, cream cheese and smoked salmon-topped quiche with a potato crust ($12). It’s a bagel and latke-minded quiche. Somebody is having fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128452\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are packaged to-go and all of them and the quiche are also available for enjoying plated in the café. Sandwiches, meanwhile, are all packaged to-go but can be consumed in Merchant Roots’ environs, along with being toasted on the spot. It’s a smart idea to have flexibility between takeout and eating-in because the lunch crowd can vary in a more residential-centered strip like this one. Future plans also call for a breakfast sandwich and a fried mortadella sando meant for dining in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re lingering for lunch, though, the must-try house meal really is the pasta, as the pasta making in the window might suggest. It’s Shelton’s specialty and one he has been fanatical about for life since being a boy growing up in San Jose as part of an Italian-American family. The enterprise could simply be Pasta Roots (or Semolina + Water?) for how important pasta is to the operation and how skilled Shelton is at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a pasta-crazed town as is proven by the dozens of Cal-Ital restaurants and even more informal red sauce and pizza joints. But, who makes their own dry and fresh pasta, pairs it with homemade sauces for enjoying in-house, and also sells both the sauces and pastas retail for you to make your own version at home? It’s definitely a tiny niche and this is a welcome addition to the diminutive club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128468\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade tomato chele pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade tomato chele pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find a handful of pastas each day on the “daily pastas” menu for freshly prepared lunch dishes. The early must-order is tomato chele ($24), shaped similarly to an unstuffed small tortellini, with just the right amount of indentations and curves to hold its sauce teammate, a lobster reduction made from the juice of lobster heads where their tails have been used as meat. Shelton finishes the dish lobster roll-style with curls of celery and buttered brioche “croutons” evoking the roll’s usual hot dog bun. Of course, the brioche is homemade, being surplus brioche from doughnut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128485\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128485\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere in the pasta neighborhood, spaghettine made on the chitarra (like a small string harp) is joined by hen ragu ($11), while ricotta cavatelli are snap pea-glazed and accompanied by lemon mascarpone and smoked prosciutto ($13). Gargatti (think short caterpillars) comes with spring vegetables and a confit tomato crema “parma rossa” sauce ($13). Sometimes there is even chilled pasta like gnochetti with pesto, roasted peppers and red onion ($9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Shelton will be serving his own charcuterie made at his commissary in the Mission (seriously, how do they make pasta, charcuterie AND pastries with with just Shelton, Michael, Hamilton-Kidd and sous chef Adriana Fleming handling almost of the day-to-day duties for the whole operation?). For now, he’s offering a charcuterie platter sourced from elsewhere ($16) and a cheese plate ($17) with good friend Eric Miller of Mission Cheese helping as a fromage whisperer/advisor. A combination of the two ($20) is also offered. On the cheese side for the combo, Pt. Reyes Toma comes with the ever popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/library-of-cheese/mt-tam\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam\u003c/a> and gooey, funky \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comt%C3%A9_cheese\">Comté\u003c/a> from France. The cured meats include pâté de campagne, speck from \u003ca href=\"http://www.redtablemeatco.com/\">Red Table\u003c/a> in Minneapolis and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soppressata\">sopressata\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.framani.com/\">Fra’Mani\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese and Charcuterie Plate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese and Charcuterie Plate \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this is very daytime-oriented food that is friendly on the wallet and has a universal appeal for all ages. Who doesn’t love a good cookie or plate of pasta? We’re all getting tired of restaurants and food makers calling themselves “craft” and “artisanal” but that is what sets Merchant Roots’ grocer component apart. There is that special homemade touch that makes nothing taste watered down. These are indeed artisan products and dishes by experts who know their way around a great doughnut and kale salad…and also know how to put on a lavish, avant-garde tasting menu feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that’s where \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong> comes into the picture, arriving in the next few weeks (probably in June). The Table is literally a monkeypod table that is used for casual communal dining during the day and will be an intimate eight-seat, one sitting dinner setting three nights a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Table at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128671\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Table at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There really is nothing like the daytime grocer part but there isn’t anything quite like the atypical, constantly evolving and bizarre nature of what Shelton and Michael are pursuing with The Table. The experience will be centered on various themes that go well beyond a time and place like the tableaus for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nextrestaurant.com/\">Next\u003c/a> in Chicago. The opening theme for The Table is “Elements” and runs nine courses from a yuzu sorbet rock for “moon” to an outrageously creative cotton candy and mint chocolate ganache “comet.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To give you an idea of how advanced these dishes are, one “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” That’s not all. The classic steak or prime rib sauces of horseradish cream and red wine demi-glace find their way onto the log. Yes, the log. The serving platter is probably even more noteworthy than anything for this one dish. Shelton made 10 of the log platters by heavily charring the gnarly wood over several weeks to the point that they were fully pitch black and then stained them to keep the striking, even haunting appearance in place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128471\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg\" alt=\"One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is just one course on one short-lived menu, but is a great reflection of the ambition on display and the ample creativity. The other bonus worth pointing out is that the opening $110 price tag per diner, while not at all cheap, is far below the total for its peers. The size and price of the menu will slightly fluctuate but several will stay in this format. Future menu themes include “Vanity Fair,” featuring everything ornate and gold-plated, and “Mermaids” with each dish literally made from sea ingredients all the way down to a bread that seems like a sourdough-fish sticks crossover. It’s made of kelp paste, haddock pureé and coconut flour (no yeast, just coconut flour paste that is inoculated over time with indigenous yeast!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clever? Mad scientist? Artist? Genius? Restless chef who is happy to be independent? Renaissance man?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shelton pretty much wears all those hats as Executive Chef/Proprietor and with Michael as Proprietress/co-pilot for the adventurous business plan. That’s the best way to understand how the grocer and The Table concepts both came about and why they can work in this particular situation. Look at their resumes and you’ll see how all of this can fit under one compact roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton is a trained pastry chef and was the lead Pastry Chef for Mountain View’s esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://cheztj.com/\">chez TJ\u003c/a>. His original South Bay home region then continued as the base for his culinary experience with time on the savory side as Chef de Cuisine at the molecular gastronomy-centric \u003ca href=\"http://www.maisonbaume.com/\">Baumé\u003c/a> in Palo Alto, followed by a short period as Executive Chef at (the now closed) Le Cigare Volant restaurant at Boony Doon Winery’s tasting room in Santa Cruz. His permanent career and residential move to San Francisco led him to Polk Street where he was Executive Chef for the highly rated but short-lived Verbena and its short-lived tenure as Reverb Kitchen & Bar (it’s now \u003ca href=\"http://www.mezcalitosf.com/\">Mezcalito\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael’s background is more in beverages as a certified sommelier and includes time working at bars like The Thomas in Napa (since closed) and the sensational Kauai tiki bar, \u003ca href=\"http://tikiiniki.com/\">Tiki Iniki\u003c/a>, in addition to restaurants with strong wine and bar programs like \u003ca href=\"http://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a> and Verbena/Reverb. But, she’s also gifted at a whole array of other food-oriented crafts and actually a certified cheese expert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for Merchant Roots’ grocer side has been in Shelton’s mind for many years but the wheels were truly set in motion after he and Michael worked 100 days straight at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/3/24/8283513/verbena-quietly-shifts-concept-will-re-open-this-week-as-reverb\">Reverb\u003c/a> — only to see the restaurant then close. Both knew that a sustainable quality of life had to be part of the equation for their personal project, an idea that sadly isn’t seen much in the restaurant and bar industry. So, Michael thought about the three-night-a-week Table to go with the five-day-a-week grocer as a balanced solution with their personal lives (Michael has a nine-year old son) and diverse talents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Michael’s chocolate chip cookie contribution may one day lead to a Cookie Roots spin-off but many of her contributions to Merchant Roots could honestly have their own spin-off. The most obvious, of course, would be the wine shop component. It will grow to have 84 labels of engaging wines from notable (mostly younger and less “famous”) producers in California, France, Spain, Italy and some of the lesser-known regions at home and abroad. Think of it as a wine-choosing app but…with the human concierge already making tough decisions for you. San Francisco isn’t lacking in great wine boutiques but several of the celebrated ones (K&L, Flatiron) can be daunting to navigate with too many choices and not enough help. Labels at Merchant Roots have standouts from the new California Wine front (Broc, Matthiasson) but also the equivalent upstart game-changers in Europe like Le Macchiole and Peter Later. Michael doesn’t delve into the pricey trophy wines of Napa and Bordeaux, and does keep value-minded options kindly in mind with a surprising number of enjoyable $10-$15 wines on hand. If you’re staying at the shop for lunch, a half-dozen of the wines are poured by-the-glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128491\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Larder\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Larder \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The larder on the wall opposite is also largely Michael’s domain. She makes preserves (all $7) in all sorts of tempting bright colors and flavors that are already at the top of the very small list of San Francisco-made jams, marmalades and jellies. A jar of mandarin jelly combines satsumas and clementines, while the yuzu marmalade features citrus rind and Navel orange. Right now in the heart of spring, there’s a rhubarb-pear jam and a Meyer lemon jam featuring whole pulp in the mix for an extra sweet and sour punch. Hopefully those jams will be served on toast one day (this is San Francisco, after all) but for now you can at least find the rhubarb jam dotting the cheese plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128488\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Merchant Roots jam\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merchant Roots jam \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salts in the larder are mixed in-house and will tempt home cooks just as much as the preserves. The roster of salts goes well beyond the ubiquitous sea salt with Elemental salt (eucalyptus, Szechuan peppercorn, volcanic salt, lemon) and Sicilian salt (Calabrian chile, oregano, rosemary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128496\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128496\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg\" alt=\"Salts in the larder are mixed in-house.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salts in the larder are mixed in-house. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, there are the soaps. Yes, soaps. Michael cleverly uses all cooking quality ingredients (coconut oil, avocado oil for example) to make the intensely fragrant soaps that make up their own line called “Milk & Raven.” Dare we say that we almost want to eat them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128487\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find drinking chocolate at the larder, hailing from Santa Cruz. It’s one of the few things not made at Merchant Roots but don’t start calling out Shelton and Michael for this. The high caffeine, intensely concentrated flavors of the mixes are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mutarichocolate.com/\">Mutari Chocolate\u003c/a>, a true master of the art and his products are hard to find in SF. The larder’s teas come from Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://leavesandflowers.com/\">Leaves and Flowers\u003c/a> and are available to be enjoyed in-house brews. It’s worth noting that coffee for enjoying only in-house comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> of Oakland and there actually is a hidden espresso maker if you ask for a cappuccino. Yes, this might be San Francisco’s first espresso speakeasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merchant Roots’ home is as adorable as the concept itself, thanks mostly to a large woven fiber art piece (Instagram alert!) by local weaver \u003ca href=\"https://www.meghanshimek.com/\">Meghan Bogden Shimek\u003c/a>. Foldable café tables are attached to the fiber piece’s wall (those tables will be collapsed for dinner service) and have extremely comfortable copper wire chairs draped with faux furs for sitting in. The Table itself resides between the art piece wall and the wine wall. Do note that The Table’s utensils won’t skimp on the luxurious quality with pottery by Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://koidestudio.com/index.html\">Kiyomi Kiode\u003c/a> and ferociously delicate and refined wine glasses by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sophienwald.com/en/\">Sophienwald\u003c/a> of Austria. And, yes this doesn’t seem like a WiFi kind of place and you’re right about that. Leave the laptop at home or bring the hot spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg\" alt=\"Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unfairly, Merchant Roots has become the answer to an inside joke within the restaurant industry for substantial opening delays. Restaurants and bars in San Francisco are routinely delayed for the city’s notorious permitting challenges and out of control expensive prices for virtually everything. Folks in the industry sometimes say, “Yes, that restaurant is taking forever to open but it’s not Merchant Roots-level delayed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s definitely not Shelton and Michael’s fault. The over yearlong delay from the original ETA is a smorgasbord of San Francisco restaurateur challenges. One that diners don’t often think about played a key part in adding the delay — construction crews favoring the thicker wallets of wealthier investment-backed restaurants (we won’t name names). Is this where San Francisco dining is going? Can independent restaurants be helped?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This part of Fillmore Street was historically filled with black-owned shops and restaurants, along with the jazz clubs that made this the Fillmore Jazz District. Except, there are basically no jazz clubs or black-owned businesses here anymore. One of the last ones of the corridor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Fillmore-singing-blues-over-jazz-district-6747312.php?utm_campaign=sfgate&utm_source=article&utm_medium=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.sfgate.com%252Finsidescoop%252Farticle%252FThe-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php%253Ft%253D157de05c32\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a>, had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/The-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php?t=157de05c32\">relocate\u003c/a>. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman just wrote an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Fernay-McPherson-and-the-movement-that-found-12907544.php\">excellent profile about this neighborhood\u003c/a> and this sad realization for the Fillmore’s demographics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s an unfortunate change for the neighborhood, albeit one that is very reflective of Divisadero just up the hill. Both are getting increasingly gentrified like their glossy nearby peers of Hayes Valley and Fillmore in Lower Pacific Heights. Yes, this is San Francisco 2018 and we could talk all day about gentrification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, this is a story about how the newer food businesses on Fillmore all started as small business concepts and have grown into thriving projects that should be celebrated. Wise Sons, Boba Guys and State Bird Provisions all weren’t glitzy or deep money-backed when they first opened. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatangelsf.com/\">Fat Angel\u003c/a> was the very first of Hi Neighbor’s restaurants and still isn’t very well-known beyond its regulars. Avery’s chef-partner Rodney Wages went through the ringer at many top kitchens in order to start a pop-up that morphed into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>. These restaurateurs worked hard to become names known citywide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton and Michael are no different — remember that 100 days we mentioned? They sure know this industry all too well. On the side, the two have even been offering doughnut and pasta making classes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.cozymeal.com/chefs/788/chef-ryan\">Cozymeal\u003c/a> not just because it’s fun but also to make money. (Full disclosure: this writer took a pasta making class from Shelton and is now at least not awful at the difficult art). They also do high-volume catering and various other projects because, hey, when your business isn’t making money in this pricey city, how do you make money?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, both have no shortage of talent, imagination or desire to fulfill their hopes. Shelton even has a tattoo of Merchant Roots’ 1365 address in roman numerals (MCCCLXV) and a tattoo of a quail, the California state bird. The chef certainly really cares about this project and where this project calls home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128489\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128489\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Restaurateurs and entrepreneurs like Shelton and Michael champion two universally beloved things in this city, whether you’re a techie millennial or lived here 55 years: bighearted small businesses that really focus on doing a few things and doing them extremely well; and clean, high quality food. A few modern tastes find their way into Merchant Roots (kale!) but there’s also a circa 1900 era vintage sausage stuffer and a small town, everybody is welcome vibe. It’s delicious, upbeat and family-friendly — heck, even dogs will appreciate the upcoming unveiling of peanut butter raviolis for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, Shelton and Michael are doing what they want to do and luckily for diners, they do it really, really well. You can’t help but root for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantroots.com/\">\u003cstrong>Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Merchant+Roots/@37.7821316,-122.4348981,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580bbd4c63a77:0xf77eb4da52eaec2!8m2!3d37.7821274!4d-122.4327041\">1365 Fillmore St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/merchantroots/?hl=en\">@merchantroots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/merchantroots/\"> Merchant Roots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MerchantRoots\">@MerchantRoots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; The Table will serve dinner Thursday-Saturday\u003cbr>\nPrice: The Shop: $-$$; The Table: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore","authors":["byline_bayareabites_128414"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_16170","bayareabites_9856"],"featImg":"bayareabites_128440","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_126767":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_126767","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"126767","score":null,"sort":[1523810330000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination","title":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination","publishDate":1523810330,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530252096,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":40,"wordCount":3452},"headData":{"title":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination | KQED","description":"San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination","datePublished":"2018-04-15T16:38:50.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T06:01:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"126767 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=126767","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/04/15/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination/","disqusTitle":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination","path":"/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination","authors":["11338","5014"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_10249","bayareabites_16101","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_16102","bayareabites_10086","bayareabites_9856"],"featImg":"bayareabites_126786","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_117580":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_117580","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"117580","score":null,"sort":[1495557304000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"reclaiming-tofu-asian-art-museum-honors-the-traditional-trendy-curd","title":"Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd","publishDate":1495557304,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117629\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117629\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Walk into any museum, and one of the first items you are likely to spot is a posted warning, a stern reminder not to consume any foods or beverages within its hallowed halls. Last Thursday night, however, visitors to the marble galleries of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/\">San Francisco Asian Art Museum\u003c/a> were met with welcoming signs promising savory tastings ahead. The event, entitled \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu-reclaiming-tofu\">Reclaiming Tofu\u003c/a>, was part of the museum’s two-year old \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu\">Tasting Menu program\u003c/a>, which Tim Hallman\u003cstrong>,\u003c/strong> Director of Communications & Business Development, describes as “exploring the connections between art and dining.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At the Asian Art Museum,” Hallman says, “we believe that food — just like art — is a beautiful way to share culture. Many of the artworks in our collection are related to food, and the museum is located in the heart of an incredibly dynamic culinary environment—one with deep influences from Asian cuisine. These factors make us a perfect venue for fostering dialogues on the creative elements of edible traditions—both local and global.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117630\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117630\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x512.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x491.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x652.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x754.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x614.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x153.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x240.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x332.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Attendees at the sold-out event on Thursday night were treated to a lively hour-long dialogue on the journey of the 2000-year old bean curd between Minh Tsai, founder of \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jennifer8lee.com/\">Jennifer 8. Lee\u003c/a>, a former New York Times reporter, producer of the film “The Search for General Tso” and the author of \u003cem>The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117631\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117631\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inspired by the fresh tofu he remembered enjoying with his grandfather in Vietnam, Tsai started a small, artisanal tofu-making business in 2004 with six cousins as partners. He began by trying to educate the palates of customers and get feedback from them at a single Farmers Market. The vicissitudes of running the small business discouraged his cousins who all bailed out. But Tsai persevered. And now he counts 700 stores and restaurants that stock his tofu products, including Chipotle and Sweet Greens, which he supplies from his West Oakland beanery. Increasingly, and perhaps even of more value, respected chefs from singular restaurants are exploring the spectrum of flavors and textures in Hodo’s premium products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117632\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117632\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-160x167.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-800x833.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-768x799.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1020x1061.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1180x1228.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-960x999.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-240x250.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-375x390.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-520x541.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With Lee’s prompts, Tsai discussed the unfortunate introduction of tofu in the US. back in the 70’s. The soft, jiggly bean curd was seen purely as a cheap, plant-based protein for vegetarians, and sold in big plastic tubs for $1.99. As a straight-up, meat-substitute, people tried grilling it alongside burgers, but it fell through the grill's gaps. That led to the “American invention of extra firm tofu” whose dense texture, Tsai describes, actually precluded it from absorbing the flavors of whatever sauce it was paired with, “leaving just a weird chalky taste.” In actuality, in most Asian cuisines, classic tofu dishes combine tofu and meat ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsai is not only a cheerleader for the many potential uses of his organic tofu, but a wise tofu guru, as well. Although he is focused on growing Hodo Soy, he sees value in promoting high quality tofu across America and generously offers to teach people to start their own tofu companies. During the question and answer period, a woman asked about tofu donuts that she had tried in Japan. Tsai encouraged her to start her own pop-up and even offered his help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee likened an appreciation of the many variations in tofu to that of cheese and asked Tsai how to encourage consumers to become equally sophisticated and snobby about soybean curds. \"What words can they use?\" she asked. Tsai responded, “fresh, buttery, creamy, beany.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117633\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1130\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117633\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x565.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x542.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x720.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x833.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x678.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x265.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x367.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the end of the discussion, three notable local chefs, clearly fans and loyal customers of Hodo, Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s, Annie Somerville of Greens and Stuart Brioza of State Bird Provisions and The Progress joined the pair to further sing the praises of cooking with tofu and introduce their dishes, which had attendees salivating in anticipation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2489\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117634\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-160x207.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-800x1037.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-768x996.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1020x1322.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1180x1530.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-960x1245.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-240x311.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-375x486.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-520x674.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somerville who started Greens restaurant in 1981, commented, ”We’ve served tofu from day one and had used another organic brand. When a friend insisted I try Hodo, I met Tsai back in 2004 at the Ferry Plaza Market and started using his products. I support his efforts, and especially think that with all the attention to climate change, this is an especially good time to explore tofu’s potential.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza who admitted to having a “tofu-disconnect” in his youth, is especially enthusiastic about using yuba (soy milk skin). “It is an amazing entrance into tofu; it caused me to totally rethink tofu. I have so many vegan friends and have also explored tofu in its places of origin such as Kyoto’s Buddhist monasteries. I appreciate its sophistication and we serve it at both restaurants.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the dialogue’s conclusion, attendees lined up at four stations to sample the tofu treats prepared by the chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117635\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1066\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117635\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hodo Soy’s own offering is what comes to mind when you think of tofu: minimalist white cubes; but these were topped with delicate dots of preserved yuzu kosho, edamame puree and umeboshi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117636\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Brandon Jew made his own creamy silken tofu out of Hodo’s soy milk and riffed on the classic mapo tofu with an explosion of spicy flavors in his rib eye cap sauce, with fermented black beans, bean paste and chilis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117637\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza had two offerings: cold yuba noodles with toasted quinoa, yuzu pickled mushrooms and tahini-chili oil. And a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117643\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg\" alt=\"State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117643\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Annie Somerville of Greens contributed a colorful, classic tofu dish, that still delivers a refreshing punch: fresh spring rolls with firm tofu, vegetable medley, rice noodles, mint, and a crunchy coconut peanut topping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117639\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Past Tasting Menu events have included last year’s homage to the \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/06/17/the-summer-of-pork-belly-hits-san-francisco-in-the-form-of-a-meat-shaped-stone/\">venerable pork belly\u003c/a>. Upcoming events for this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1179\">Flowering Teas\u003c/a> (where you can create your own blend) on June 29, and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1197\">Philippine Feast \u003c/a>on August 17.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a subsequent interview, Minh Tsai added, \" Hodo is at a very pivotal time and place for the good food, craft food movement. The story of Hodo tells us a lot about American culture and food. Like many other craft food makers in the US have done over the past few decades, I set out to recreate elusive memory, recapture a lost art. I wanted to make something that could not be found here. But I knew it existed in another place, other countries. So I knew that people here were missing something. But I also recognize that for tofu/yuba to grow, I will need to continue to innovate and collaborate with chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim Hall of the Asian Art Museum adds, “the goal of our Tasting Menu programs is to find access points for discovery, connections, and links that foster cultural empathy.”\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Freshly made tofu is winning the hearts of local Bay Area Chefs, who helped Minh Tsai, of Hodo Soy, celebrate this rediscovered, ancient ingredient at The Asian Art Museum's Tasting Menu event - Reclaiming Tofu.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1495648253,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1417},"headData":{"title":"Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd | KQED","description":"Freshly made tofu is winning the hearts of local Bay Area Chefs, who helped Minh Tsai, of Hodo Soy, celebrate this rediscovered, ancient ingredient at The Asian Art Museum's Tasting Menu event - Reclaiming Tofu.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd","datePublished":"2017-05-23T16:35:04.000Z","dateModified":"2017-05-24T17:50:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"117580 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=117580","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/05/23/reclaiming-tofu-asian-art-museum-honors-the-traditional-trendy-curd/","disqusTitle":"Reclaiming Tofu: Asian Art Museum Honors the Traditional & Trendy Curd","path":"/bayareabites/117580/reclaiming-tofu-asian-art-museum-honors-the-traditional-trendy-curd","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117629\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117629\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/1-welcome-sign-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The San Francisco Asian Art Museum hosts periodic Tasting Menu programs, inviting patrons to make the connection between food and art. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Walk into any museum, and one of the first items you are likely to spot is a posted warning, a stern reminder not to consume any foods or beverages within its hallowed halls. Last Thursday night, however, visitors to the marble galleries of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/\">San Francisco Asian Art Museum\u003c/a> were met with welcoming signs promising savory tastings ahead. The event, entitled \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu-reclaiming-tofu\">Reclaiming Tofu\u003c/a>, was part of the museum’s two-year old \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/regular/tasting-menu\">Tasting Menu program\u003c/a>, which Tim Hallman\u003cstrong>,\u003c/strong> Director of Communications & Business Development, describes as “exploring the connections between art and dining.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At the Asian Art Museum,” Hallman says, “we believe that food — just like art — is a beautiful way to share culture. Many of the artworks in our collection are related to food, and the museum is located in the heart of an incredibly dynamic culinary environment—one with deep influences from Asian cuisine. These factors make us a perfect venue for fostering dialogues on the creative elements of edible traditions—both local and global.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117630\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117630\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x512.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x491.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x652.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x754.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x614.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x153.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x240.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/2.hall-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x332.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee and Minh Tsai discuss the past and future of tofu in front of more than 200 attendees. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Attendees at the sold-out event on Thursday night were treated to a lively hour-long dialogue on the journey of the 2000-year old bean curd between Minh Tsai, founder of \u003ca href=\"http://hodosoy.com/\">Hodo Soy\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jennifer8lee.com/\">Jennifer 8. Lee\u003c/a>, a former New York Times reporter, producer of the film “The Search for General Tso” and the author of \u003cem>The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117631\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117631\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/3.-Greens-rolls-NEW-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Greens' fresh spring rolls with tofu wait to be assembled into the final dish. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inspired by the fresh tofu he remembered enjoying with his grandfather in Vietnam, Tsai started a small, artisanal tofu-making business in 2004 with six cousins as partners. He began by trying to educate the palates of customers and get feedback from them at a single Farmers Market. The vicissitudes of running the small business discouraged his cousins who all bailed out. But Tsai persevered. And now he counts 700 stores and restaurants that stock his tofu products, including Chipotle and Sweet Greens, which he supplies from his West Oakland beanery. Increasingly, and perhaps even of more value, respected chefs from singular restaurants are exploring the spectrum of flavors and textures in Hodo’s premium products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117632\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117632\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-160x167.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-800x833.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-768x799.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1020x1061.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-1180x1228.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-960x999.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-240x250.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-375x390.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-520x541.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/4-Minh-and-Stuart-NEW-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minh Tsai expresses his appreciation of the varied textures in Stuart Brioza's yuba (tofu skin) with toasted quinoa. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With Lee’s prompts, Tsai discussed the unfortunate introduction of tofu in the US. back in the 70’s. The soft, jiggly bean curd was seen purely as a cheap, plant-based protein for vegetarians, and sold in big plastic tubs for $1.99. As a straight-up, meat-substitute, people tried grilling it alongside burgers, but it fell through the grill's gaps. That led to the “American invention of extra firm tofu” whose dense texture, Tsai describes, actually precluded it from absorbing the flavors of whatever sauce it was paired with, “leaving just a weird chalky taste.” In actuality, in most Asian cuisines, classic tofu dishes combine tofu and meat ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsai is not only a cheerleader for the many potential uses of his organic tofu, but a wise tofu guru, as well. Although he is focused on growing Hodo Soy, he sees value in promoting high quality tofu across America and generously offers to teach people to start their own tofu companies. During the question and answer period, a woman asked about tofu donuts that she had tried in Japan. Tsai encouraged her to start her own pop-up and even offered his help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee likened an appreciation of the many variations in tofu to that of cheese and asked Tsai how to encourage consumers to become equally sophisticated and snobby about soybean curds. \"What words can they use?\" she asked. Tsai responded, “fresh, buttery, creamy, beany.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117633\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1130\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117633\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x113.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x565.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x542.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x720.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x833.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x678.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x170.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x265.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/5-all-speakers-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x367.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jennifer 8. Lee moderated the discussion between Minh Tsai, Stuart, Brioza, Brandon Jew and Annie Somerville. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the end of the discussion, three notable local chefs, clearly fans and loyal customers of Hodo, Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu’s, Annie Somerville of Greens and Stuart Brioza of State Bird Provisions and The Progress joined the pair to further sing the praises of cooking with tofu and introduce their dishes, which had attendees salivating in anticipation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2489\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117634\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-160x207.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-800x1037.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-768x996.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1020x1322.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-1180x1530.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-960x1245.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-240x311.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-375x486.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/6-Greens-Annie-NEW-520x674.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Annie Somerville of Greens Restaurant has known Minh Tsai and served Hodo Soy tofu since 2004. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somerville who started Greens restaurant in 1981, commented, ”We’ve served tofu from day one and had used another organic brand. When a friend insisted I try Hodo, I met Tsai back in 2004 at the Ferry Plaza Market and started using his products. I support his efforts, and especially think that with all the attention to climate change, this is an especially good time to explore tofu’s potential.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza who admitted to having a “tofu-disconnect” in his youth, is especially enthusiastic about using yuba (soy milk skin). “It is an amazing entrance into tofu; it caused me to totally rethink tofu. I have so many vegan friends and have also explored tofu in its places of origin such as Kyoto’s Buddhist monasteries. I appreciate its sophistication and we serve it at both restaurants.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the dialogue’s conclusion, attendees lined up at four stations to sample the tofu treats prepared by the chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117635\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1066\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117635\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/7-Hodos-tofu-cubes-photo-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Minimalist preparation lets flavor of Hodo's fresh tofu shine through. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hodo Soy’s own offering is what comes to mind when you think of tofu: minimalist white cubes; but these were topped with delicate dots of preserved yuzu kosho, edamame puree and umeboshi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117636\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/8-mapo-tofu-photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's contributed a fiery, flavorful mapo tofu. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Brandon Jew made his own creamy silken tofu out of Hodo’s soy milk and riffed on the classic mapo tofu with an explosion of spicy flavors in his rib eye cap sauce, with fermented black beans, bean paste and chilis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117637\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9.Stuarts-yuba-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuart Brioza's cold yuba noodles pairs the slippery tofu skin with crunchy toasted quinoa for a multi-sensory bite. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Stuart Brioza had two offerings: cold yuba noodles with toasted quinoa, yuzu pickled mushrooms and tahini-chili oil. And a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117643\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg\" alt=\"State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117643\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/10-state-birdNEW1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">State bird also prepared a silken soy milk tofu topped with manila clams and pickled ramps in rice wine vinegar, topped with ramp oil, aged tamari and micro greens. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Annie Somerville of Greens contributed a colorful, classic tofu dish, that still delivers a refreshing punch: fresh spring rolls with firm tofu, vegetable medley, rice noodles, mint, and a crunchy coconut peanut topping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1490px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls.\" width=\"1490\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117639\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW.jpg 1490w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-800x644.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-768x619.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1020x821.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-1180x950.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-960x773.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-240x193.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-375x302.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/11-Greens-dish-Photo-by-Quincy-Stamper-NEW-520x419.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1490px) 100vw, 1490px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crunchy rainbow of vegetables animate Annie Somerville's fresh spring rolls. \u003ccite>(Quincy Stamper, Asian Art Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Past Tasting Menu events have included last year’s homage to the \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/06/17/the-summer-of-pork-belly-hits-san-francisco-in-the-form-of-a-meat-shaped-stone/\">venerable pork belly\u003c/a>. Upcoming events for this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1179\">Flowering Teas\u003c/a> (where you can create your own blend) on June 29, and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.asianart.org/events/1197\">Philippine Feast \u003c/a>on August 17.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a subsequent interview, Minh Tsai added, \" Hodo is at a very pivotal time and place for the good food, craft food movement. The story of Hodo tells us a lot about American culture and food. Like many other craft food makers in the US have done over the past few decades, I set out to recreate elusive memory, recapture a lost art. I wanted to make something that could not be found here. But I knew it existed in another place, other countries. So I knew that people here were missing something. But I also recognize that for tofu/yuba to grow, I will need to continue to innovate and collaborate with chefs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim Hall of the Asian Art Museum adds, “the goal of our Tasting Menu programs is to find access points for discovery, connections, and links that foster cultural empathy.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/117580/reclaiming-tofu-asian-art-museum-honors-the-traditional-trendy-curd","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_8668","bayareabites_15500","bayareabites_9134","bayareabites_13462","bayareabites_3583","bayareabites_12409","bayareabites_9856","bayareabites_3585","bayareabites_3580"],"featImg":"bayareabites_117635","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79770":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79770","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79770","score":null,"sort":[1396368032000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"for-a-sophisticated-dinner-party-serve-a-diy-breadcrumb-tasting-menu","title":"For a Sophisticated Dinner Party, Serve a DIY Breadcrumb Tasting Menu","publishDate":1396368032,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/five-dishes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/five-dishes.jpg\" alt=\"Impress your friends with a 5-course breadcrumb tasting menu. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Impress your friends with a 5-course breadcrumb tasting menu. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ever since the hand-crushed fermented bread crumbs popped up on the tasting menu at Daniel Patterson's flagship restaurant, Coi, breadcrumbs have been the making their way onto trendy plates throughout the city. It seems that breadcrumbs are the new toast—an artisanal accessory food that can be dressed up or down for any occasion. Tired after a long day of work? Crumble a few slices of Acme levain and smother the crumbs with American cheese. Trying to impress your new brocoding boyfriend? Try a blend of Josey Baker crumbles topped with flakes off of a Tartine croissant. Throwing a dinner party in your up-and-coming mid-Market penthouse? Pull out the big guns by showcasing a 5-course tasting menu to explore all of the different flavors and textures present within this extraordinary food. Here’s how.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bread-pre-crumbs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bread-pre-crumbs.jpg\" alt=\"You will need a different type of bread for each course. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79775\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You will need a different type of bread for each course. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, you will need to source your bread. You’ll need at least one different selection per course, and it is best to buy the highest quality product possible. Check your local farmers’ markets first before searching through a grocery delivery app. You can also choose to buy bread through local retailers or a small, independent grocery store (but only if they sell local goods. Here, I’ve sourced a loaf of local levain, a local morning bun, a bag of local pita bread, a local everything bagel, and a (regrettably not local) loaf of whole wheat sandwich bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each type of bread necessitates a different preparation method to best highlight their unique texture profile. Follow along below to see the meal prepared in the order of its courses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/elevated-bagel.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/elevated-bagel.jpg\" alt=\"The Elevated Bagel. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"611\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79776\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Elevated Bagel. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First course: Elevated Bagel\u003c/strong> (untoasted everything crumbs, frothy buttermilk, baby parsley)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bagel crumbs should be rustic in their formation and untoasted in their nature. To prepare, slice the bagel into 1/4-inch thick rounds and transfer to a food processor. Pulse the bagel pieces until they have formed a diverse assemblage of crumbs, some pea-sized and some sand-sized. Transfer to a small bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bagel-crumbs-in-processor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bagel-crumbs-in-processor.jpg\" alt=\"Pulse the bagel pieces until rustically crumbed. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"742\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79774\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pulse the bagel pieces until rustically crumbed. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To plate the dish, place a Chinese soup spoon on the counter. Carefully pour shaken and strained buttermilk into the spoon. This creamy, frothy buttermilk mimics the tang of cream cheese without its gelatinous mouthfeel. Top the buttermilk with two large pinches of bagel crumbs, being sure to place a few golden pieces on top. Pinch off one baby parsley leaf and place on top for a perfect burst of fresh grassiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/a-taste-of-the-middle-east.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/a-taste-of-the-middle-east.jpg\" alt=\"A Taste of the Middle East. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"725\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79773\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Taste of the Middle East. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Second course: A Taste of the Middle East\u003c/strong> (hand-flaked olive oil-fried pita crumbs, za’atar, fry oil)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pita’s delicate nature deserves a gentle touch. To make the pita crumbs, first tear one pita into haphazard 3-inch pieces. Next, tear each of these pieces into smaller, pine nut sized flakes. Now pinch a small amount of the flakes in between your fingers and rub them together to crumble. Repeat with the remaining pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/pita-prep-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/pita-prep-3.jpg\" alt=\"For the best results, the pita bread must be hand crumbled between your fingers. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"649\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79784\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For the best results, the pita bread must be hand crumbled between your fingers. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, fry the pita crumbs by heating 1/4 inch of locally cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil in a small cast iron skillet. Add the crumbs and fry until they just turn golden and crisp. Drain the crumbs through a fine mesh strainer set over a small bowl. Reserve the leftover frying oil for plating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scatter 4 pinches of pita crumbs on a terra cotta plate. Using a baby spoon, drizzle the fry oil over the crumbs. The additional oil adds bitter depth and soft moisture to the crisp crumbs. Sprinkle approximately 1/16 teaspoon za’atar across the plate to add lively traditional zing to the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health.jpg\" alt=\"Health. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"710\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79781\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Health. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Third course: Health\u003c/strong> (whole wheat bread crumbs, toasted, no oil, no salt)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this exploration of the salubrious nature of crumbs, start with whole wheat sandwich bread (bonus points for scoring a loaf fortified with extra fiber and minerals). Remove the crusts from three slices of bread and throw these gummy strips in the garbage can. Slice the interior of each slice into 1 by 2-inch rectangles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\" alt=\"Toasting the whole wheat crumbs is essential to ensuring the nutritious texture of the dish. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"626\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79780\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toasting the whole wheat crumbs is essential to ensuring the nutritious texture of the dish. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pulse the bread rectangles in a food processor until they’ve formed fine, squishy crumbs. You could serve the crumbs raw, but I prefer to toast them in a 318° oven for 15 minutes. The long, slow baking process transforms the soft crumbles into crunchy, Grape Nuts-like gravel—a perfect representation of health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plate the health crumbs on a textured white plate in the shape of a curved comet trail. Do not add oil, butter, salt, or pepper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/four-crumbs-four-textures.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/four-crumbs-four-textures.jpg\" alt=\"Four Crumbs, Four Textures. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"780\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79779\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Crumbs, Four Textures. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fourth course: Four Crumbs, Four Textures\u003c/strong> (Acme pain au levain prepared four ways, maldon, cracked black pepper)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best way to experience a voyage of crumb textures is to experiment with size. I like to use a decent but not incredible naturally leavened loaf for this course. Acme’s pain au levain is a perfect choice. To prepare, slice off 1 1/4-inch thick piece, and then hand-separate the soft interior from the chewy crust. Next, hand-tear the soft interior into large 1-inch, crouton-like crumbs (“crouton” is really just another word for large breadcrumb), and then slice the crust into craggy 1-inch squares. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the collection of large crumbs, select the two most perfect interior crumbs and two most perfect crust crumbs. Set one of each aside for plating, and then place the remaining two interior and crust crumbs on a toasting platter to crisp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/large-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/large-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\" alt=\"Be sure to give each crumb plenty of breathing room on the toasting platter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"734\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79783\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be sure to give each crumb plenty of breathing room on the toasting platter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Toast the crumbs in a 321° oven for 5 to 6 minutes until they’re just starting to turn golden. If they turn too dark, the crisp portions will turn carcinogenic, so they’ll need to be discarded. Finally, plate the four crumbs on an oversized slate platter in order from softest to crispest, and then scatter flakes of Maldon salt and cracked black pepper over the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/investigating-breakfast-for-dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/investigating-breakfast-for-dinner.jpg\" alt=\"Investigating Breakfast for Dessert. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"704\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79782\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Investigating Breakfast for Dessert. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fifth course: Investigating Breakfast for Dessert\u003c/strong> (melting vanilla ice cream, whiff of chocolate, hand-flaked morning bun crumbs)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like pita bread, morning bun crumbs should always be hand-made. Separate the bun into four large sections, and then gently flake apart each layer using only the tips of your fingers. The crumb flakes should be thin and wispy. Discard any crumbs that do not flutter when tossed gently in the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/flaking-morning-bun.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/flaking-morning-bun.jpg\" alt=\"A proper hand-flaked morning bun should flutter in the air. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"636\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79778\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A proper hand-flaked morning bun should flutter in the air. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Using two spoons, scoop a miniature quenelle of well-sourced vanilla ice cream onto a small grey dessert plate. Place a square of high-quality, single-origin dark chocolate next to the ice cream for 5 seconds. Remove and discard, leaving only the faintest trace of the chocolate’s oil. Pile 1 1/2 tablespoons of morning bun crumbs next to the ice cream. Let the ice cream begin to melt and pool below the crumbs before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Breadcrumb Tasting Menu\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 1\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Note:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Recipe can be doubled, tripled, or quadrupled as needed, depending on the size of your party.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1\teverything bagel, sliced into 1/4-inch thick rounds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon buttermilk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tbaby parsley leaf\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tpita bread, torn into rustic 3-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tcup extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/16\tteaspoon za’atar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3\tslices whole wheat sandwich bread, crusts removed and interior sliced into 2 by 3-inch rectangles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\t1 1/4-inch thick slice Acme pan levain, soft interior separated from chewy crust\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon Maldon sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon cracked black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tmorning bun, separated into 4 large pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tsmall square high-quality, single origin dark chocolate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon high-quality vanilla ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Food processor\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Small cast iron skillet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine mesh strainer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Small bowl\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toasting platters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Chinese soup spoon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Terra cotta plate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>White textured plate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Oversized slate platter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Grey dessert plate\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Prepare crumbs as described above.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before serving, plate crumbs as described above.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Enjoy the delicate nature of each preparation of crumbs.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It seems that breadcrumbs are the new toast—an artisanal accessory food that can be dressed up or down for any occasion. Pull out the big guns by showcasing a 5-course tasting menu to explore all of the different flavors and textures present within this extraordinary food. Kate Williams will show you how. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1396453449,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1447},"headData":{"title":"For a Sophisticated Dinner Party, Serve a DIY Breadcrumb Tasting Menu | KQED","description":"It seems that breadcrumbs are the new toast—an artisanal accessory food that can be dressed up or down for any occasion. Pull out the big guns by showcasing a 5-course tasting menu to explore all of the different flavors and textures present within this extraordinary food. Kate Williams will show you how. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"For a Sophisticated Dinner Party, Serve a DIY Breadcrumb Tasting Menu","datePublished":"2014-04-01T16:00:32.000Z","dateModified":"2014-04-02T15:44:09.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"79770 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79770","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/01/for-a-sophisticated-dinner-party-serve-a-diy-breadcrumb-tasting-menu/","disqusTitle":"For a Sophisticated Dinner Party, Serve a DIY Breadcrumb Tasting Menu","path":"/bayareabites/79770/for-a-sophisticated-dinner-party-serve-a-diy-breadcrumb-tasting-menu","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/five-dishes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/five-dishes.jpg\" alt=\"Impress your friends with a 5-course breadcrumb tasting menu. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79777\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Impress your friends with a 5-course breadcrumb tasting menu. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ever since the hand-crushed fermented bread crumbs popped up on the tasting menu at Daniel Patterson's flagship restaurant, Coi, breadcrumbs have been the making their way onto trendy plates throughout the city. It seems that breadcrumbs are the new toast—an artisanal accessory food that can be dressed up or down for any occasion. Tired after a long day of work? Crumble a few slices of Acme levain and smother the crumbs with American cheese. Trying to impress your new brocoding boyfriend? Try a blend of Josey Baker crumbles topped with flakes off of a Tartine croissant. Throwing a dinner party in your up-and-coming mid-Market penthouse? Pull out the big guns by showcasing a 5-course tasting menu to explore all of the different flavors and textures present within this extraordinary food. Here’s how.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bread-pre-crumbs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bread-pre-crumbs.jpg\" alt=\"You will need a different type of bread for each course. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79775\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You will need a different type of bread for each course. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, you will need to source your bread. You’ll need at least one different selection per course, and it is best to buy the highest quality product possible. Check your local farmers’ markets first before searching through a grocery delivery app. You can also choose to buy bread through local retailers or a small, independent grocery store (but only if they sell local goods. Here, I’ve sourced a loaf of local levain, a local morning bun, a bag of local pita bread, a local everything bagel, and a (regrettably not local) loaf of whole wheat sandwich bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each type of bread necessitates a different preparation method to best highlight their unique texture profile. Follow along below to see the meal prepared in the order of its courses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/elevated-bagel.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/elevated-bagel.jpg\" alt=\"The Elevated Bagel. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"611\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79776\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Elevated Bagel. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First course: Elevated Bagel\u003c/strong> (untoasted everything crumbs, frothy buttermilk, baby parsley)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bagel crumbs should be rustic in their formation and untoasted in their nature. To prepare, slice the bagel into 1/4-inch thick rounds and transfer to a food processor. Pulse the bagel pieces until they have formed a diverse assemblage of crumbs, some pea-sized and some sand-sized. Transfer to a small bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bagel-crumbs-in-processor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/bagel-crumbs-in-processor.jpg\" alt=\"Pulse the bagel pieces until rustically crumbed. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"742\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79774\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pulse the bagel pieces until rustically crumbed. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To plate the dish, place a Chinese soup spoon on the counter. Carefully pour shaken and strained buttermilk into the spoon. This creamy, frothy buttermilk mimics the tang of cream cheese without its gelatinous mouthfeel. Top the buttermilk with two large pinches of bagel crumbs, being sure to place a few golden pieces on top. Pinch off one baby parsley leaf and place on top for a perfect burst of fresh grassiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/a-taste-of-the-middle-east.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/a-taste-of-the-middle-east.jpg\" alt=\"A Taste of the Middle East. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"725\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79773\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Taste of the Middle East. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Second course: A Taste of the Middle East\u003c/strong> (hand-flaked olive oil-fried pita crumbs, za’atar, fry oil)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pita’s delicate nature deserves a gentle touch. To make the pita crumbs, first tear one pita into haphazard 3-inch pieces. Next, tear each of these pieces into smaller, pine nut sized flakes. Now pinch a small amount of the flakes in between your fingers and rub them together to crumble. Repeat with the remaining pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/pita-prep-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/pita-prep-3.jpg\" alt=\"For the best results, the pita bread must be hand crumbled between your fingers. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"649\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79784\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For the best results, the pita bread must be hand crumbled between your fingers. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, fry the pita crumbs by heating 1/4 inch of locally cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil in a small cast iron skillet. Add the crumbs and fry until they just turn golden and crisp. Drain the crumbs through a fine mesh strainer set over a small bowl. Reserve the leftover frying oil for plating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scatter 4 pinches of pita crumbs on a terra cotta plate. Using a baby spoon, drizzle the fry oil over the crumbs. The additional oil adds bitter depth and soft moisture to the crisp crumbs. Sprinkle approximately 1/16 teaspoon za’atar across the plate to add lively traditional zing to the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health.jpg\" alt=\"Health. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"710\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79781\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Health. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Third course: Health\u003c/strong> (whole wheat bread crumbs, toasted, no oil, no salt)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this exploration of the salubrious nature of crumbs, start with whole wheat sandwich bread (bonus points for scoring a loaf fortified with extra fiber and minerals). Remove the crusts from three slices of bread and throw these gummy strips in the garbage can. Slice the interior of each slice into 1 by 2-inch rectangles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/health-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\" alt=\"Toasting the whole wheat crumbs is essential to ensuring the nutritious texture of the dish. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"626\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79780\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toasting the whole wheat crumbs is essential to ensuring the nutritious texture of the dish. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pulse the bread rectangles in a food processor until they’ve formed fine, squishy crumbs. You could serve the crumbs raw, but I prefer to toast them in a 318° oven for 15 minutes. The long, slow baking process transforms the soft crumbles into crunchy, Grape Nuts-like gravel—a perfect representation of health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plate the health crumbs on a textured white plate in the shape of a curved comet trail. Do not add oil, butter, salt, or pepper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/four-crumbs-four-textures.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/four-crumbs-four-textures.jpg\" alt=\"Four Crumbs, Four Textures. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"780\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79779\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four Crumbs, Four Textures. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fourth course: Four Crumbs, Four Textures\u003c/strong> (Acme pain au levain prepared four ways, maldon, cracked black pepper)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best way to experience a voyage of crumb textures is to experiment with size. I like to use a decent but not incredible naturally leavened loaf for this course. Acme’s pain au levain is a perfect choice. To prepare, slice off 1 1/4-inch thick piece, and then hand-separate the soft interior from the chewy crust. Next, hand-tear the soft interior into large 1-inch, crouton-like crumbs (“crouton” is really just another word for large breadcrumb), and then slice the crust into craggy 1-inch squares. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the collection of large crumbs, select the two most perfect interior crumbs and two most perfect crust crumbs. Set one of each aside for plating, and then place the remaining two interior and crust crumbs on a toasting platter to crisp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/large-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/large-crumbs-ready-to-toast.jpg\" alt=\"Be sure to give each crumb plenty of breathing room on the toasting platter. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"734\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79783\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Be sure to give each crumb plenty of breathing room on the toasting platter. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Toast the crumbs in a 321° oven for 5 to 6 minutes until they’re just starting to turn golden. If they turn too dark, the crisp portions will turn carcinogenic, so they’ll need to be discarded. Finally, plate the four crumbs on an oversized slate platter in order from softest to crispest, and then scatter flakes of Maldon salt and cracked black pepper over the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/investigating-breakfast-for-dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/investigating-breakfast-for-dinner.jpg\" alt=\"Investigating Breakfast for Dessert. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"704\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79782\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Investigating Breakfast for Dessert. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fifth course: Investigating Breakfast for Dessert\u003c/strong> (melting vanilla ice cream, whiff of chocolate, hand-flaked morning bun crumbs)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like pita bread, morning bun crumbs should always be hand-made. Separate the bun into four large sections, and then gently flake apart each layer using only the tips of your fingers. The crumb flakes should be thin and wispy. Discard any crumbs that do not flutter when tossed gently in the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/flaking-morning-bun.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/flaking-morning-bun.jpg\" alt=\"A proper hand-flaked morning bun should flutter in the air. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"636\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79778\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A proper hand-flaked morning bun should flutter in the air. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Using two spoons, scoop a miniature quenelle of well-sourced vanilla ice cream onto a small grey dessert plate. Place a square of high-quality, single-origin dark chocolate next to the ice cream for 5 seconds. Remove and discard, leaving only the faintest trace of the chocolate’s oil. Pile 1 1/2 tablespoons of morning bun crumbs next to the ice cream. Let the ice cream begin to melt and pool below the crumbs before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: DIY Breadcrumb Tasting Menu\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 1\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Note:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Recipe can be doubled, tripled, or quadrupled as needed, depending on the size of your party.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1\teverything bagel, sliced into 1/4-inch thick rounds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon buttermilk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tbaby parsley leaf\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tpita bread, torn into rustic 3-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tcup extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/16\tteaspoon za’atar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3\tslices whole wheat sandwich bread, crusts removed and interior sliced into 2 by 3-inch rectangles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\t1 1/4-inch thick slice Acme pan levain, soft interior separated from chewy crust\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon Maldon sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon cracked black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tmorning bun, separated into 4 large pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\tsmall square high-quality, single origin dark chocolate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1\ttablespoon high-quality vanilla ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Equipment:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Food processor\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Small cast iron skillet\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fine mesh strainer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Small bowl\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toasting platters\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Chinese soup spoon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Terra cotta plate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>White textured plate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Oversized slate platter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Grey dessert plate\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Prepare crumbs as described above.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before serving, plate crumbs as described above.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Enjoy the delicate nature of each preparation of crumbs.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79770/for-a-sophisticated-dinner-party-serve-a-diy-breadcrumb-tasting-menu","authors":["5485"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_334"],"tags":["bayareabites_3693","bayareabites_11111","bayareabites_13227","bayareabites_987","bayareabites_13228","bayareabites_9856","bayareabites_9782"],"featImg":"bayareabites_79789","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_34758":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_34758","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"34758","score":null,"sort":[1320437445000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"benu-a-meditative-meal","title":"Benu: A Meditative Meal","publishDate":1320437445,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744-e1319763520596.jpg\" alt=\"eel\" title=\"eel\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34767\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never been to \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\" title=\"The French Laundry\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>. Ever since my love for food evolved from outings to the Olive Garden to a lovely dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" title=\"Oliveto\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, it has represented to me the pinnacle of haute cuisine in America. Several years ago, when I happened to be spending the day in Yountville with an ex-boyfriend, I asked him to slowly drive past the restaurant in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the chef (as we weren't able to get a reservation). And lo -- there he was, the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\" title=\"Thomas Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, standing in the bucolic backyard and chatting with one of his staff. I squealed loudly like a teenage groupie and my ex-boyfriend remarked, \"Well, I can't compete with that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still haven't been to the restaurant. But after dining tonight at Benu, I almost feel that I have -- through one of its gifted progeny. Keller's former chef de cuisine of 4 1/2 years, \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/corey-lee\" title=\"Benu\">Corey Lee\u003c/a>, is the creative force behind this remarkable restaurant. He's been receiving loads of press, with renowned New York City chef David Chang recently declaring Benu, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/10/05/benu-named-best-restaurant-in-america_n_996423.html\" title=\"best restaurant\">the best restaurant in America.\u003c/a>\" It's been open for a little over a year, and it's still possible to easily get a prime time reservation on a weeknight. (I'm sure that'll change as they were recently awarded with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2011/10/26/bloomberg_articlesLTN8921A74E9.DTL\" title=\"michelin stars\">two Michelin stars\u003c/a>.) With my friend Scott Spencer of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/01/the-cyclist-chef-a-look-inside-spencers-pantry/\" title=\"spencer's pantry\">Spencer's Pantry\u003c/a> in tow, we headed to Hawthorne Lane in SOMA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you pass through the gate that leads to Benu's stone courtyard, you pass by a glass door on the right that offers you a glimpse of the spotless kitchen that emanates the same calm zen quality as the restaurant itself. The staff seems unhurried, working intently on their dishes at their stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\" alt=\"benu kitchen\" title=\"benu kitchen\" width=\"499\" height=\"321\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34783\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing I noticed about the spare, modernist interior after we sat down (designed by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/richard-bloch\" title=\"richard bloch\">Richard Bloch\u003c/a>) was the muted, gray tonality of the space that was gently illuminated with a neutral, balanced light. It reminded me of walking into an art museum at dusk or that first moment before a play is about to begin, with the house lights gradually dimmed before the performance. There's a cool stillness that evokes more of a contemplative mood -- rather than a romantic one -- in its atmosphere. With higher-end fine dining, I'm accustomed to walking into hushed, dark spaces lit only by candlelight and the other patrons shrouded in darkness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758-e1319757572334.jpg\" alt=\"benu dining room\" title=\"benu dining room\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34777\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott and I knew beforehand that we were going to order the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tasting.pdf\" title=\"tasting menu at benu\">19-course tasting menu\u003c/a> ($180 / person, which the whole table must order together). Yes, 19 courses -- and spoiler alert: each one was exquisite. I won't go through the entire tasting menu -- which you can see in the slideshow below -- so I'll just review some of the highlights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The square black wooden tables, sans white tablecloths, offer an appealing backdrop that is both casual in its presentation yet still retains a formal quality. Each dish is served in a beautiful Korean ceramic vessel (made by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/kwangjuyo\" title=\"kwangjuyo\">KwangJuYo\u003c/a>, seemingly crafted with each course in mind as they complemented the ingredients perfectly.) And most of the courses were eaten with a small silver spoon that lay on a stone rest. The service was impeccable; each dish was brought out by a rotation of different servers -- a nice touch that added a punctuation of freshness to each course -- who described the ingredients and the best way to indulge in the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A single bite of oyster and pork belly that wonderfully melded together and was encapsulated in a sugar glass-like kimchi-infused wrapper was probably the most delightful thing I've ever eaten in my life. And to think that was only the second course; my mind was already blown by the combination of the crunchy kimchi glass giving way to the luscious oyster and pork belly in one rapturous, melt-in-your-mouth bite. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">Umami\u003c/a> overload. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\" alt=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" title=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" width=\"499\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34763\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you know those colorful \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krupuk\" title=\"shrimp chips\">shrimp chips\u003c/a> that sometimes accompany dishes at Asian restaurants? Benu reinvented this snack favorite with their \"salt-and-pepper squid\" dish by creating a large, peppery black chip topped with tender cubes of squid and jalapeno for a bit of a spicy kick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\" alt=\"salt and pepper squid\" title=\"salt and pepper squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34769\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there were the soup dumplings. Not just any soup dumplings, but \"foie gras xiao long bao.\" (I'll digress here for a moment and say that dumplings are one of the core elements of my being. I am obsessed with dumplings, to the point where I contemplated starting my own independent dumpling enterprise.) They arrived on an elegant white circular porcelain platter that's a nod to the steamed bamboo baskets commonly seen in Chinese restaurants. After taking a small bite to release the warm foie gras broth into the spoon, I slurped up the rich soup before eating the rest of the tender pork dumpling. I was rather forlorn that there were only two; it was over much too soon. (And I suppose, come \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-07/foie-gras-lovers-in-california-fall-victim-to-rights-of-ducks.html\" title=\"foie gras ban\">next July\u003c/a>, this dish will be off the menu.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750-e1319758113895.jpg\" alt=\"soup dumpling\" title=\"soup dumpling\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" -- like the kimchi glass earlier in the meal -- drew upon Chef Lee's Korean roots. One secret to creating tender Korean beef barbecue is to add pear to the traditional soy sauce, garlic, onions and scallions marinade to help tenderize the beef. And the succulent (and I'm guessing, sous vide-prepared) beef was heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761-e1319763061365.jpg\" alt=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" title=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34778\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire tasting menu unfolded like the four seasons, starting off with lighter bites and spring-like tastes, then ending with deeper, richer autumnal flavors towards the end. A gorgeous dessert of \"fig, white chocolate, balsamic vinegar, sake lees (the sediment leftover after rice is pressed to make the alcohol)\" resembled a delicate snowfall on a winter's day. It was accompanied with \"malted rice tea, pine nut, pine needle honey\"; you'd drink the sweet tea, then eat a soft custard at the bottom of the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\" alt=\"dessert\" title=\"dessert\" width=\"499\" height=\"312\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34780\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three hours later, at the end of our feast -- concluded with fine chocolates from \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/la-foret\" title=\"la foret\">Napa-based La Forêt Chocolate & Confections\u003c/a> -- Scott and I were in a state of serene bliss. The flawlessly executed dishes -- with several an homage to Asian home-cooking favorites -- inspired lively discussion between us about technique, ingredients, and our love of food. Benu is a temple to fine dining, and I will make another pilgrimage on another special occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com\" title=\"benu\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94105 \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/kykzj\">map\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n(415) 685-4860\u003cbr>\nFor parties of seven or more, contact Kathryn Douglass at (415) 685-4860 x116\u003cbr>\nDinner service only. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Benu-Restaurant/115962055103723\" title=\"Facebook\">Benu on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"I spent 3 hours reveling in the exquisite 19-course tasting menu at Benu, which was recently awarded with two Michelin stars.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1320437445,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1120},"headData":{"title":"Benu: A Meditative Meal | KQED","description":"I spent 3 hours reveling in the exquisite 19-course tasting menu at Benu, which was recently awarded with two Michelin stars.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Benu: A Meditative Meal","datePublished":"2011-11-04T20:10:45.000Z","dateModified":"2011-11-04T20:10:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"34758 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=34758","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/04/benu-a-meditative-meal/","disqusTitle":"Benu: A Meditative Meal","path":"/bayareabites/34758/benu-a-meditative-meal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744-e1319763520596.jpg\" alt=\"eel\" title=\"eel\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34767\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never been to \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\" title=\"The French Laundry\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>. Ever since my love for food evolved from outings to the Olive Garden to a lovely dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" title=\"Oliveto\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, it has represented to me the pinnacle of haute cuisine in America. Several years ago, when I happened to be spending the day in Yountville with an ex-boyfriend, I asked him to slowly drive past the restaurant in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the chef (as we weren't able to get a reservation). And lo -- there he was, the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\" title=\"Thomas Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, standing in the bucolic backyard and chatting with one of his staff. I squealed loudly like a teenage groupie and my ex-boyfriend remarked, \"Well, I can't compete with that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still haven't been to the restaurant. But after dining tonight at Benu, I almost feel that I have -- through one of its gifted progeny. Keller's former chef de cuisine of 4 1/2 years, \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/corey-lee\" title=\"Benu\">Corey Lee\u003c/a>, is the creative force behind this remarkable restaurant. He's been receiving loads of press, with renowned New York City chef David Chang recently declaring Benu, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/10/05/benu-named-best-restaurant-in-america_n_996423.html\" title=\"best restaurant\">the best restaurant in America.\u003c/a>\" It's been open for a little over a year, and it's still possible to easily get a prime time reservation on a weeknight. (I'm sure that'll change as they were recently awarded with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2011/10/26/bloomberg_articlesLTN8921A74E9.DTL\" title=\"michelin stars\">two Michelin stars\u003c/a>.) With my friend Scott Spencer of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/01/the-cyclist-chef-a-look-inside-spencers-pantry/\" title=\"spencer's pantry\">Spencer's Pantry\u003c/a> in tow, we headed to Hawthorne Lane in SOMA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you pass through the gate that leads to Benu's stone courtyard, you pass by a glass door on the right that offers you a glimpse of the spotless kitchen that emanates the same calm zen quality as the restaurant itself. The staff seems unhurried, working intently on their dishes at their stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\" alt=\"benu kitchen\" title=\"benu kitchen\" width=\"499\" height=\"321\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34783\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing I noticed about the spare, modernist interior after we sat down (designed by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/richard-bloch\" title=\"richard bloch\">Richard Bloch\u003c/a>) was the muted, gray tonality of the space that was gently illuminated with a neutral, balanced light. It reminded me of walking into an art museum at dusk or that first moment before a play is about to begin, with the house lights gradually dimmed before the performance. There's a cool stillness that evokes more of a contemplative mood -- rather than a romantic one -- in its atmosphere. With higher-end fine dining, I'm accustomed to walking into hushed, dark spaces lit only by candlelight and the other patrons shrouded in darkness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758-e1319757572334.jpg\" alt=\"benu dining room\" title=\"benu dining room\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34777\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott and I knew beforehand that we were going to order the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tasting.pdf\" title=\"tasting menu at benu\">19-course tasting menu\u003c/a> ($180 / person, which the whole table must order together). Yes, 19 courses -- and spoiler alert: each one was exquisite. I won't go through the entire tasting menu -- which you can see in the slideshow below -- so I'll just review some of the highlights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The square black wooden tables, sans white tablecloths, offer an appealing backdrop that is both casual in its presentation yet still retains a formal quality. Each dish is served in a beautiful Korean ceramic vessel (made by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/kwangjuyo\" title=\"kwangjuyo\">KwangJuYo\u003c/a>, seemingly crafted with each course in mind as they complemented the ingredients perfectly.) And most of the courses were eaten with a small silver spoon that lay on a stone rest. The service was impeccable; each dish was brought out by a rotation of different servers -- a nice touch that added a punctuation of freshness to each course -- who described the ingredients and the best way to indulge in the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A single bite of oyster and pork belly that wonderfully melded together and was encapsulated in a sugar glass-like kimchi-infused wrapper was probably the most delightful thing I've ever eaten in my life. And to think that was only the second course; my mind was already blown by the combination of the crunchy kimchi glass giving way to the luscious oyster and pork belly in one rapturous, melt-in-your-mouth bite. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">Umami\u003c/a> overload. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\" alt=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" title=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" width=\"499\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34763\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you know those colorful \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krupuk\" title=\"shrimp chips\">shrimp chips\u003c/a> that sometimes accompany dishes at Asian restaurants? Benu reinvented this snack favorite with their \"salt-and-pepper squid\" dish by creating a large, peppery black chip topped with tender cubes of squid and jalapeno for a bit of a spicy kick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\" alt=\"salt and pepper squid\" title=\"salt and pepper squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34769\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there were the soup dumplings. Not just any soup dumplings, but \"foie gras xiao long bao.\" (I'll digress here for a moment and say that dumplings are one of the core elements of my being. I am obsessed with dumplings, to the point where I contemplated starting my own independent dumpling enterprise.) They arrived on an elegant white circular porcelain platter that's a nod to the steamed bamboo baskets commonly seen in Chinese restaurants. After taking a small bite to release the warm foie gras broth into the spoon, I slurped up the rich soup before eating the rest of the tender pork dumpling. I was rather forlorn that there were only two; it was over much too soon. (And I suppose, come \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-07/foie-gras-lovers-in-california-fall-victim-to-rights-of-ducks.html\" title=\"foie gras ban\">next July\u003c/a>, this dish will be off the menu.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750-e1319758113895.jpg\" alt=\"soup dumpling\" title=\"soup dumpling\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" -- like the kimchi glass earlier in the meal -- drew upon Chef Lee's Korean roots. One secret to creating tender Korean beef barbecue is to add pear to the traditional soy sauce, garlic, onions and scallions marinade to help tenderize the beef. And the succulent (and I'm guessing, sous vide-prepared) beef was heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761-e1319763061365.jpg\" alt=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" title=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34778\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire tasting menu unfolded like the four seasons, starting off with lighter bites and spring-like tastes, then ending with deeper, richer autumnal flavors towards the end. A gorgeous dessert of \"fig, white chocolate, balsamic vinegar, sake lees (the sediment leftover after rice is pressed to make the alcohol)\" resembled a delicate snowfall on a winter's day. It was accompanied with \"malted rice tea, pine nut, pine needle honey\"; you'd drink the sweet tea, then eat a soft custard at the bottom of the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\" alt=\"dessert\" title=\"dessert\" width=\"499\" height=\"312\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34780\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three hours later, at the end of our feast -- concluded with fine chocolates from \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/la-foret\" title=\"la foret\">Napa-based La Forêt Chocolate & Confections\u003c/a> -- Scott and I were in a state of serene bliss. The flawlessly executed dishes -- with several an homage to Asian home-cooking favorites -- inspired lively discussion between us about technique, ingredients, and our love of food. Benu is a temple to fine dining, and I will make another pilgrimage on another special occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com\" title=\"benu\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94105 \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/kykzj\">map\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n(415) 685-4860\u003cbr>\nFor parties of seven or more, contact Kathryn Douglass at (415) 685-4860 x116\u003cbr>\nDinner service only. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Benu-Restaurant/115962055103723\" title=\"Facebook\">Benu on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/34758/benu-a-meditative-meal","authors":["2100"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9366","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_8497","bayareabites_494","bayareabites_9855","bayareabites_9525","bayareabites_9856","bayareabites_286"],"featImg":"bayareabites_34767","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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