Give Chickpeas A Chance: Why Hummus Unites, And Divides, The Mideast
The Birth And Afterlife Of Israel's Precious Etrog Fruit
Beyond The Kibbutz: A Jewish Farm Renaissance
The Complications of Getting Running Water in the West Bank
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And so hummus became a symbol, she tells us, \"a symbol of all the tension in the Middle East.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The war began over a 4,532-pound plate of hummus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, Fadi Abboud — the minister of tourism -- led Lebanon to break the world record for making the largest tub of hummus in the world. At the time, Abboud was also chairman of the Lebanese Industrialists Association. \"A group of us just came from a food exhibition in France. There they were telling us that hummus is an Israeli traditional dish,\" he says. \"I mean, the world now thinks that Israel invented hummus.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Abboud could not let that stand. \"I thought the best way to tell the world that the hummus is Lebanese is to break the Guinness Book of Records.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the ceremony, when Guinness awarded Lebanon the prize for its epic plate of hummus, Abboud announced, \"We want the whole world to know that hummus and tabouli are Lebanese, and by breaking [into] the Guinness Book of World Records, the world should know our cuisine, our culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event was big news all over the Mideast region. \"It was [a] big issue that hummus was Lebanese,\" says Jawdat Ibrahim, an Arab-Israeli entrepreneur and owner of the popular Abu Gosh restaurant in an Arab village of the same name near Jerusalem. \"I said, 'No, hummus is for everybody.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so, \"I hold a meeting in the village and I say, 'We are going to break Guinness Book of World Record.' Not the Israeli government, the people of Abu Gosh.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they did just that, in January 2010, the news was broadcast around the world. \"In the town of Abu Gosh this morning, Israel retook the title for the world's largest hummus dish, weighing 4 tons and served in a satellite dish,\" one news announcer intoned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Yes,\" Ibrahim recalls, \"a satellite dish. It's a dish, no?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110819\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193.jpg\" alt=\"Counterattack: On Jan. 8, 2010, the Arab Israeli village of Abu Gosh served up this giant satellite dish full of hummus, weighing over 4 tons — about twice as much as the previous record set by Lebanon just months earlier.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110819\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Counterattack: On Jan. 8, 2010, the Arab Israeli village of Abu Gosh served up this giant satellite dish full of hummus, weighing over 4 tons — about twice as much as the previous record set by Lebanon just months earlier. \u003ccite>( Alessio Romenzi/AFP/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It drew more cameras than when Obama visited the country, Ibrahim says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within hours, the Lebanese planned a counterattack -- and within months, they presented the world with a vat filled with 23,042 pounds of hummus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, Abboud says, Lebanon was also trying to register the word \"hummus\" with the European Union, with a protective designation of origin — in the same way Champagne is registered by France, Parmigiano Reggiano by the Italians, and the Greeks lay claim to feta cheese. Abboud was asking the EU to ban any country other than Lebanon from calling their product hummus. The Lebanese Industrialists Association called its campaign \"Hands Off Our Dishes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The word for chickpea in Arabic is hummus,\" says Abboud, who has been studying the history of hummus for some time now. \"So the actual name comes from the Arabic for chickpea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the end, the EU did not allow Lebanon to register hummus as its own, because it is the food of an entire region.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>'The Hummus Is Our Tradition'\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>That region includes Israel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vered, the food journalist with \u003cem>Haaretz,\u003c/em> has been chronicling the arc of Israeli food and cooking for years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the country is only 68 years old, and its citizens came from all over the world, it lacked a unifying food tradition. So hummus became a common ground for Israelis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Palestinians also made hummus a symbol,\" Vered notes — a symbol \"that we didn't only take their land, we took their food as well and made it ours.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palestinian Nuha Musleh agrees. \"The hummus is our tradition. Tabouli is our tradition,\" says Musleh, who works as a fixer with international journalists and owns a rug and antiques store in Ramallah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110820\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-400x533.jpg\" alt='\"The hummus is our tradition,\" says Palestinian Nuha Musleh, seen here in her kitchen.' width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-110820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-1440x1920.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"The hummus is our tradition,\" says Palestinian Nuha Musleh, seen here in her kitchen. \u003ccite>(Davia Nelson for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We travel with Musleh from Jerusalem to the West Bank and Ramallah. After a long wait at a checkpoint while making the crossing, Musleh stops her SUV at one of her favorite restaurants in Ramallah so we can taste Palestinian hummus. \"People run to get hummus when they are in Ramallah,\" she says. \"It's like getting a good pizza in downtown Rome. Or getting a good T-bone steak in Texas, I imagine — I haven't been.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant owner, Ali Abu Anas, leads us into his kitchen, where plates of hummus piled with radishes, pickles and sumac are being made. \"What distinguishes any hummus from another is \u003cem>nafs\u003c/em> — which is 'soul' in Arabic,\" he says. Here, they pound the hummus by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They pound it, they pound it, they pound it. They don't use a machine,\" he says, as Musleh translates for us. \"They use good tahini, sesame seeds crushed, sumac, lemons from Jericho, olive oil from the Hebron hills.\" He tells us that Palestinians don't mind that Lebanon is proud of its hummus, or that Egypt makes hummus as well. This is a dish that brings Arabs together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this same dish that unites Arabs doesn't always have the same effect between Palestinians and Israel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the first two decades of the state, the Israeli people didn't really eat local food. They stuck to their old habits,\" Vered explains. \"It's also a political issue. If I eat Palestinian food, in a way, I acknowledge that they exist, that there are other people here who have food of their own.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the late 1950s, the Israeli army started serving hummus in mess halls, and soon the average Israeli came to know hummus as an everyday food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the local fare became more familiar to the Israeli immigrants from Europe, hummus became hip, something young people began to eat, says Dafna Hirsch, a sociologist at the Open University of Israel in Tel Aviv and author of the article \"\u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1548-1425.2011.01326.x/abstract\">Hummus is best when it is fresh and made by Arabs.\"\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hummus became appropriated as the food of the new\u003cem> sabra\u003c/em>,\" she says, using the term for an Israeli Jew born in Israeli territory, someone rooted in the land. \"In Israel, hummus is considered a masculine dish,\" says Hirsch. \"It's a kind of masculine ritual to go with a group of men to the \u003cem>hummusiya\u003c/em> and eat hummus, wiping with these large circular gestures.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days hummus isn't merely a dish -- it's a subculture, says Shooky Galili, a young Tel Aviv entrepreneur who runs \u003ca href=\"http://humus101.com/EN/\">hummus101.com\u003c/a>. The blog features recipes, reviews and recommendations for \u003cem>hummusiya\u003c/em>, or hummus joints. There's a community around hummus, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Musleh -- the Palestinian woman who has been showing us around Ramallah — is far from taken with the subculture that Galili and many Israelis are feeding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hummus, unfortunately, has become in the category of fast foods,\" Musleh says. \"But actually in [the Arab world] and all of Palestine, hummus is a Friday honorable breakfast. The father wakes up in the morning, makes hummus, makes food, invites all his daughters and daughters-in-law and sons. It's a way to get together in the morning of a Friday, when the family wants to throw all their worries and problems away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>'Food Is Maybe The Only Thing That Gets People To Sit Together'\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>As Musleh drives us back to Jerusalem, back toward the checkpoint, she explains, \"there's usually congestion, because there's the refugee camp on left, a village called Qalandia on the right, and there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126000690\">no man's land, Kufr Aqab\u003c/a>. You have 130,000 people using one road.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we get closer, we notice the rug merchants and food vendors who have set up makeshift businesses along the crawling route. \"I never think of eating breakfast on days when I have to go through the checkpoint,\" Musleh says, \"because, look, there's a kebab stand and there's vendors selling \u003cem>ka'ak,\u003c/em> the bread with sesame and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/11/190672515/zaatar-a-spice-mix-with-biblical-roots-and-brain-food-reputation\">za'atar\u003c/a>.\" These vendors do a big business. \"Because you're stressed, you need something. You could get shot. The checkpoint could close. You could get a gas bomb. Suddenly you're not a human being. The kitchen of the checkpoint is really crucial to connect people together as human beings,\" Musah says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in a cab in Tel Aviv, we notice the tattoo on our taxi driver, David Varon, and ask, \"What does it say?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\" 'No fear,' \" he says. \"Some people are afraid to live in a country where there is so much blood and wars and conflict over thousands of years. You cannot live in fear in Israel.\" Because, he adds, \"this conflict is about religion, and it will not be over until religion is over.\" He drives, and continues, \"Hummus and falafel — food is maybe the only thing that gets people to sit together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the hummus makers at the \u003cem>hummusiyat\u003c/em> we visited in Israel -- Lena's in Jerusalem, Abu Hassam in Tel Aviv, Hummus Said in Akko -- echoed Varon's thoughts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Dafna Hirsh from the Open University of Israel isn't buying it. \"This kind of approach says, 'Oh, if we eat together, peace will come through the stomach.' But no. As long as colonization continues, as long as occupation continues, then hummus is not going to solve it.\" Many of the Palestinian hummus makers we spoke with expressed similar sentiments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Jawdat Ibrahim has a vision -- a kitchen vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ibrahim grew up in poverty in Abu Gosh, an Arab living in an Arab village in Israel. He came to America in his early 20s with just a quarter in his pocket, then won a $23 million lottery in 1973 in Chicago and returned to his village in Israel to open his hummus restaurant. \"We broke the Guinness world record, but to make hummus is not the issue. To put people together, that is the main thing. People talk about blood and killing, and I want to take it to a different way,\" he says. \"People can talk about the Middle East about nice things, not killing and shooting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Hummus Wars continue. But, Ibrahim says, \"Nobody gets hurt with this war.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Basic Hummus\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2012/10/15/162805706/jerusalem-a-love-letter-to-food-and-memories-of-home\">This recipe\u003c/a> comes courtesy of British-Israeli chef and restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/\">Yotam Ottolenghi\u003c/a>, who grew up in Jewish West Jerusalem, and his business partner and co-chef Sami Tamimi, who grew up in the Muslim neighborhoods of East Jerusalem. It is excerpted from \u003cem>Jerusalem: A Cookbook.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This hummus is smooth and rich in tahini (sesame paste), just the way we like it.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups dried chickpeas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 1/2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons light tahini paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 1/2 tablespoons ice cold water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night before, put the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover them with cold water at least twice their volume. Leave to soak overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next day, drain the chickpeas. Place a medium saucepan over high heat and add the drained chickpeas and baking soda. Cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cook, skimming off any foam and any skins that float to the surface. The chickpeas will need to cook for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the type and freshness, sometimes even longer. Once done, they should be very tender, breaking up easily when pressed between your thumb and finger, almost but not quite mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain the chickpeas. You should have roughly 3 2/3 cups now. Place the chickpeas in a food processor and process until you get a stiff paste. Then, with the machine sill running, add the tahini paste, lemon juice, garlic, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Finally, slowly drizzle in the ice water and allow it to mix for about five minutes, until you get a very smooth and creamy paste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. If not using straightaway, refrigerate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Nothing is simple in Mideast relations. Not even hummus. Lebanon, Israel and Palestinians are entangled over who owns the dish. Not even the title of world's largest hummus platter settled the matter.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1468863632,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":58,"wordCount":2126},"headData":{"title":"Give Chickpeas A Chance: Why Hummus Unites, And Divides, The Mideast | KQED","description":"Nothing is simple in Mideast relations. Not even hummus. Lebanon, Israel and Palestinians are entangled over who owns the dish. Not even the title of world's largest hummus platter settled the matter.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Give Chickpeas A Chance: Why Hummus Unites, And Divides, The Mideast","datePublished":"2016-07-18T17:34:57.000Z","dateModified":"2016-07-18T17:40:32.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"110817 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=110817","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/18/give-chickpeas-a-chance-why-hummus-unites-and-divides-the-mideast/","disqusTitle":"Give Chickpeas A Chance: Why Hummus Unites, And Divides, The Mideast","nprImageCredit":"Ramzi Haidar","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"AFP/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"483715410","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=483715410&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/07/18/483715410/give-chickpeas-a-chance-why-hummus-unites-and-divides-the-mideast?ft=nprml&f=483715410","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 18 Jul 2016 11:07:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 18 Jul 2016 04:51:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 18 Jul 2016 11:07:40 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160718_me_give_chickpeas_a_chance_why_hummus_unites_and_divides_the_mideast.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=420&p=3&story=483715410&t=progseg&e=486423783&seg=8&ft=nprml&f=483715410","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1486432965-035be2.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&d=420&p=3&story=483715410&t=progseg&e=486423783&seg=8&ft=nprml&f=483715410","path":"/bayareabites/110817/give-chickpeas-a-chance-why-hummus-unites-and-divides-the-mideast","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160718_me_give_chickpeas_a_chance_why_hummus_unites_and_divides_the_mideast.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2016/07/20160718_me_give_chickpeas_a_chance_why_hummus_unites_and_divides_the_mideast.mp3\u003cbr>\nThey call it \"The Hummus Wars.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lebanon accused the Israeli people of trying to steal hummus and make it their national dish, explains Ronit Vered, a food journalist with the newspaper \u003cem>Haaretz\u003c/em> in Tel Aviv. And so hummus became a symbol, she tells us, \"a symbol of all the tension in the Middle East.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The war began over a 4,532-pound plate of hummus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2009, Fadi Abboud — the minister of tourism -- led Lebanon to break the world record for making the largest tub of hummus in the world. At the time, Abboud was also chairman of the Lebanese Industrialists Association. \"A group of us just came from a food exhibition in France. There they were telling us that hummus is an Israeli traditional dish,\" he says. \"I mean, the world now thinks that Israel invented hummus.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Abboud could not let that stand. \"I thought the best way to tell the world that the hummus is Lebanese is to break the Guinness Book of Records.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the ceremony, when Guinness awarded Lebanon the prize for its epic plate of hummus, Abboud announced, \"We want the whole world to know that hummus and tabouli are Lebanese, and by breaking [into] the Guinness Book of World Records, the world should know our cuisine, our culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event was big news all over the Mideast region. \"It was [a] big issue that hummus was Lebanese,\" says Jawdat Ibrahim, an Arab-Israeli entrepreneur and owner of the popular Abu Gosh restaurant in an Arab village of the same name near Jerusalem. \"I said, 'No, hummus is for everybody.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so, \"I hold a meeting in the village and I say, 'We are going to break Guinness Book of World Record.' Not the Israeli government, the people of Abu Gosh.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they did just that, in January 2010, the news was broadcast around the world. \"In the town of Abu Gosh this morning, Israel retook the title for the world's largest hummus dish, weighing 4 tons and served in a satellite dish,\" one news announcer intoned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Yes,\" Ibrahim recalls, \"a satellite dish. It's a dish, no?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110819\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193.jpg\" alt=\"Counterattack: On Jan. 8, 2010, the Arab Israeli village of Abu Gosh served up this giant satellite dish full of hummus, weighing over 4 tons — about twice as much as the previous record set by Lebanon just months earlier.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-110819\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-1440x959.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusworldrecord_enl-3f5fe29471dcd0d8df71396c3c3951c04080a193-960x639.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Counterattack: On Jan. 8, 2010, the Arab Israeli village of Abu Gosh served up this giant satellite dish full of hummus, weighing over 4 tons — about twice as much as the previous record set by Lebanon just months earlier. \u003ccite>( Alessio Romenzi/AFP/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It drew more cameras than when Obama visited the country, Ibrahim says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within hours, the Lebanese planned a counterattack -- and within months, they presented the world with a vat filled with 23,042 pounds of hummus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, Abboud says, Lebanon was also trying to register the word \"hummus\" with the European Union, with a protective designation of origin — in the same way Champagne is registered by France, Parmigiano Reggiano by the Italians, and the Greeks lay claim to feta cheese. Abboud was asking the EU to ban any country other than Lebanon from calling their product hummus. The Lebanese Industrialists Association called its campaign \"Hands Off Our Dishes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The word for chickpea in Arabic is hummus,\" says Abboud, who has been studying the history of hummus for some time now. \"So the actual name comes from the Arabic for chickpea.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in the end, the EU did not allow Lebanon to register hummus as its own, because it is the food of an entire region.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>'The Hummus Is Our Tradition'\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>That region includes Israel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vered, the food journalist with \u003cem>Haaretz,\u003c/em> has been chronicling the arc of Israeli food and cooking for years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the country is only 68 years old, and its citizens came from all over the world, it lacked a unifying food tradition. So hummus became a common ground for Israelis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Palestinians also made hummus a symbol,\" Vered notes — a symbol \"that we didn't only take their land, we took their food as well and made it ours.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palestinian Nuha Musleh agrees. \"The hummus is our tradition. Tabouli is our tradition,\" says Musleh, who works as a fixer with international journalists and owns a rug and antiques store in Ramallah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_110820\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-400x533.jpg\" alt='\"The hummus is our tradition,\" says Palestinian Nuha Musleh, seen here in her kitchen.' width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-110820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-1440x1920.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/07/hummusstoryphoto_enl-c78a653f289ca17ca12f8b785f65f76f5044b2ca.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"The hummus is our tradition,\" says Palestinian Nuha Musleh, seen here in her kitchen. \u003ccite>(Davia Nelson for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We travel with Musleh from Jerusalem to the West Bank and Ramallah. After a long wait at a checkpoint while making the crossing, Musleh stops her SUV at one of her favorite restaurants in Ramallah so we can taste Palestinian hummus. \"People run to get hummus when they are in Ramallah,\" she says. \"It's like getting a good pizza in downtown Rome. Or getting a good T-bone steak in Texas, I imagine — I haven't been.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant owner, Ali Abu Anas, leads us into his kitchen, where plates of hummus piled with radishes, pickles and sumac are being made. \"What distinguishes any hummus from another is \u003cem>nafs\u003c/em> — which is 'soul' in Arabic,\" he says. Here, they pound the hummus by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They pound it, they pound it, they pound it. They don't use a machine,\" he says, as Musleh translates for us. \"They use good tahini, sesame seeds crushed, sumac, lemons from Jericho, olive oil from the Hebron hills.\" He tells us that Palestinians don't mind that Lebanon is proud of its hummus, or that Egypt makes hummus as well. This is a dish that brings Arabs together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this same dish that unites Arabs doesn't always have the same effect between Palestinians and Israel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the first two decades of the state, the Israeli people didn't really eat local food. They stuck to their old habits,\" Vered explains. \"It's also a political issue. If I eat Palestinian food, in a way, I acknowledge that they exist, that there are other people here who have food of their own.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the late 1950s, the Israeli army started serving hummus in mess halls, and soon the average Israeli came to know hummus as an everyday food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the local fare became more familiar to the Israeli immigrants from Europe, hummus became hip, something young people began to eat, says Dafna Hirsch, a sociologist at the Open University of Israel in Tel Aviv and author of the article \"\u003ca href=\"http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1548-1425.2011.01326.x/abstract\">Hummus is best when it is fresh and made by Arabs.\"\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hummus became appropriated as the food of the new\u003cem> sabra\u003c/em>,\" she says, using the term for an Israeli Jew born in Israeli territory, someone rooted in the land. \"In Israel, hummus is considered a masculine dish,\" says Hirsch. \"It's a kind of masculine ritual to go with a group of men to the \u003cem>hummusiya\u003c/em> and eat hummus, wiping with these large circular gestures.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days hummus isn't merely a dish -- it's a subculture, says Shooky Galili, a young Tel Aviv entrepreneur who runs \u003ca href=\"http://humus101.com/EN/\">hummus101.com\u003c/a>. The blog features recipes, reviews and recommendations for \u003cem>hummusiya\u003c/em>, or hummus joints. There's a community around hummus, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Musleh -- the Palestinian woman who has been showing us around Ramallah — is far from taken with the subculture that Galili and many Israelis are feeding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hummus, unfortunately, has become in the category of fast foods,\" Musleh says. \"But actually in [the Arab world] and all of Palestine, hummus is a Friday honorable breakfast. The father wakes up in the morning, makes hummus, makes food, invites all his daughters and daughters-in-law and sons. It's a way to get together in the morning of a Friday, when the family wants to throw all their worries and problems away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>'Food Is Maybe The Only Thing That Gets People To Sit Together'\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>As Musleh drives us back to Jerusalem, back toward the checkpoint, she explains, \"there's usually congestion, because there's the refugee camp on left, a village called Qalandia on the right, and there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=126000690\">no man's land, Kufr Aqab\u003c/a>. You have 130,000 people using one road.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we get closer, we notice the rug merchants and food vendors who have set up makeshift businesses along the crawling route. \"I never think of eating breakfast on days when I have to go through the checkpoint,\" Musleh says, \"because, look, there's a kebab stand and there's vendors selling \u003cem>ka'ak,\u003c/em> the bread with sesame and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/11/190672515/zaatar-a-spice-mix-with-biblical-roots-and-brain-food-reputation\">za'atar\u003c/a>.\" These vendors do a big business. \"Because you're stressed, you need something. You could get shot. The checkpoint could close. You could get a gas bomb. Suddenly you're not a human being. The kitchen of the checkpoint is really crucial to connect people together as human beings,\" Musah says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in a cab in Tel Aviv, we notice the tattoo on our taxi driver, David Varon, and ask, \"What does it say?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\" 'No fear,' \" he says. \"Some people are afraid to live in a country where there is so much blood and wars and conflict over thousands of years. You cannot live in fear in Israel.\" Because, he adds, \"this conflict is about religion, and it will not be over until religion is over.\" He drives, and continues, \"Hummus and falafel — food is maybe the only thing that gets people to sit together.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the hummus makers at the \u003cem>hummusiyat\u003c/em> we visited in Israel -- Lena's in Jerusalem, Abu Hassam in Tel Aviv, Hummus Said in Akko -- echoed Varon's thoughts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Dafna Hirsh from the Open University of Israel isn't buying it. \"This kind of approach says, 'Oh, if we eat together, peace will come through the stomach.' But no. As long as colonization continues, as long as occupation continues, then hummus is not going to solve it.\" Many of the Palestinian hummus makers we spoke with expressed similar sentiments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Jawdat Ibrahim has a vision -- a kitchen vision.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ibrahim grew up in poverty in Abu Gosh, an Arab living in an Arab village in Israel. He came to America in his early 20s with just a quarter in his pocket, then won a $23 million lottery in 1973 in Chicago and returned to his village in Israel to open his hummus restaurant. \"We broke the Guinness world record, but to make hummus is not the issue. To put people together, that is the main thing. People talk about blood and killing, and I want to take it to a different way,\" he says. \"People can talk about the Middle East about nice things, not killing and shooting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Hummus Wars continue. But, Ibrahim says, \"Nobody gets hurt with this war.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Basic Hummus\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2012/10/15/162805706/jerusalem-a-love-letter-to-food-and-memories-of-home\">This recipe\u003c/a> comes courtesy of British-Israeli chef and restaurateur \u003ca href=\"http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/\">Yotam Ottolenghi\u003c/a>, who grew up in Jewish West Jerusalem, and his business partner and co-chef Sami Tamimi, who grew up in the Muslim neighborhoods of East Jerusalem. It is excerpted from \u003cem>Jerusalem: A Cookbook.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This hummus is smooth and rich in tahini (sesame paste), just the way we like it.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups dried chickpeas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 1/2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons light tahini paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 1/2 tablespoons ice cold water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The night before, put the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover them with cold water at least twice their volume. Leave to soak overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next day, drain the chickpeas. Place a medium saucepan over high heat and add the drained chickpeas and baking soda. Cook for about three minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cook, skimming off any foam and any skins that float to the surface. The chickpeas will need to cook for 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the type and freshness, sometimes even longer. Once done, they should be very tender, breaking up easily when pressed between your thumb and finger, almost but not quite mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain the chickpeas. You should have roughly 3 2/3 cups now. Place the chickpeas in a food processor and process until you get a stiff paste. Then, with the machine sill running, add the tahini paste, lemon juice, garlic, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Finally, slowly drizzle in the ice water and allow it to mix for about five minutes, until you get a very smooth and creamy paste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the hummus to a bowl, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes. If not using straightaway, refrigerate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/110817/give-chickpeas-a-chance-why-hummus-unites-and-divides-the-mideast","authors":["byline_bayareabites_110817"],"categories":["bayareabites_12869","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_11123","bayareabites_2658","bayareabites_12203","bayareabites_15537","bayareabites_13334","bayareabites_15539","bayareabites_9983","bayareabites_15538"],"featImg":"bayareabites_110818","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_88395":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_88395","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"88395","score":null,"sort":[1412354865000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit","title":"The Birth And Afterlife Of Israel's Precious Etrog Fruit","publishDate":1412354865,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88396\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog3_wide-621cd57ace3be6130c5e8154b9ccbf900bfea2ca-e1412354326844.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog3_wide-621cd57ace3be6130c5e8154b9ccbf900bfea2ca-e1412354326844.jpg\" alt=\"A man picks up an etrog, one of four plant species used during the celebration of Sukkot, in the ultra-Orthodox city of Bnei Brak in central Israel in September, 2012. Photo: Jack Guez /AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88396\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A man picks up an etrog, one of four plant species used during the celebration of Sukkot, in the ultra-Orthodox city of Bnei Brak in central Israel in September, 2012. Photo: Jack Guez /AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Emily Harris, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/03/353311090/the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/3/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a temporary warehouse in Israel's ultra-Orthodox town of Bnei Brak, Shaul Kalimi examines etrogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From boxes stacked nearby, he takes one bumpy green citrus at a time out of padded wrapping, holds it in both hands, brings it close to his nose and peers over his glasses for a good look. He rotates each etrog slowly, checking if it's suitable to serve as a \"beautiful fruit\" — as the Bible calls for — in ceremonies during the Jewish holiday known as Sukkot. Sukkot, which commences sundown on Oct. 8, marks the harvest and the Biblical tale of Jewish people wandering the desert for 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm looking to see if it's symmetrical, not leaning,\" he says. \"I'm checking that the top third is free of blemishes. As for the color, I'll put it with an apple and it should turn yellow in two days.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88397\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog21_custom-9b55dd2265094028bac5a1707b3daa4f07b48d35-e1412354460541.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog21_custom-9b55dd2265094028bac5a1707b3daa4f07b48d35-e1412354460541.jpg\" alt=\"A wholesaler picking out fruit in an Israeli etrog orchard weighs a large Yemen-style etrog against a smaller variety. He prefers the small ones, and will search through stacks of boxes to find those he considers most beautiful. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88397\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A wholesaler picking out fruit in an Israeli etrog orchard weighs a large Yemen-style etrog against a smaller variety. He prefers the small ones, and will search through stacks of boxes to find those he considers most beautiful. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kalimi's eight-year-old son, Shoam, watches his dad and examines fruit, too. For those who value a perfect etrog, the secret of finding one is worth passing on through generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Called \"citron\" in English and etrog in Hebrew, this fruit is believed to be the first citrus to arrive on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Archeological evidence — pollen imprints in the walls of a Persian palace in what's now Jerusalem — points to etrogs appearing in the area as early as the 7th century BC, says \u003ca href=\"http://departments.agri.huji.ac.il/horticulture/staff-eng/goldschmidt.html\">Eleizer E. Goldschmidt\u003c/a>, a professor of agriculture and etrog specialist at Hebrew University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says etrogs have been used in Sukkot religious rituals since at least the second century BC. It's one of four species, representing different aspects of agriculture, that observant Jews wave and pray over during the holiday ceremonies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Etrog isn't specifically named in the Hebrew bible, but it has played the role of \"beautiful fruit\" for millennia because it has been considered so special for so long, Goldschmidt says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have no idea how exotic citrus fruits were\" when they first arrived around the Mediterranean, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since perhaps that long ago, rabbis have debated both the proper look of an etrog and its symbolism. Some suggest it represents the heart, says Rabbi \u003ca href=\"http://www.rabbidavidrosen.net/\">David Rosen\u003c/a>, the international director of interreligious affairs for the AJC (formerly the American Jewish Committee). The three other plants used in Sukkot ceremonies — palm, willow and myrtle — represent other parts of the body, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So when we take the four species together, it's a symbol of the whole body and all its components being devoted and dedication to God,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another popular view is that these plants, each with a different balance of taste and fragrance, represent the mix of good deeds and knowledge among people. The willow offers neither taste nor fragrance, Rosen notes. Myrtle smells good but has no taste. Palms produce delicious dates but no significant scent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Etrog skin, when rubbed, is intoxicating and fragrant, somewhat like a lemon. Although hardly a meal, the thick white pith inside is edible, and mildly sweet. One etrog variety has very small juice sacs in the center, although the giant Yemenite etrog has no juice inside at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Etrog are tricky to grow, especially with the unblemished skin desirable for Sukkot ceremonies. In Israel's muggy lowlands, 77-year-old Arieh Antman has been growing etrogs for decades. It's a hassle, he says. Trees bear fruit for less than a decade, the crop must be sprayed with pesticides twice daily. And the leaves, with sharp, serrated edges, must be tied back so none might brush and blemish the skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he sticks with it, in part because he finds the whole cycle beautiful. One tree can have blossoms, green leaves and fruit all at the same time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've fallen in love with this crop,\" he says. \"Otherwise, I'd quit farming it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog1_wide-1ae9a0303f6db9a772f6726505d1f2173c751564-e1412354641429.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog1_wide-1ae9a0303f6db9a772f6726505d1f2173c751564-e1412354641429.jpg\" alt=\"Israeli farmer Arieh Antman has been growing the labor-intensive etrog for decades. Leaves must be tied away from the fruit so their serrated edges won't mar the etrog skin. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88398\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Israeli farmer Arieh Antman has been growing the labor-intensive etrog for decades. Leaves must be tied away from the fruit so their serrated edges won't mar the etrog skin. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some people prize an etrog with a \u003cem>girdel\u003c/em>, an indentation around the middle that makes the fruit resemble images of a woman's figure. Others will only consider an etrog with the \u003cem>pitam\u003c/em>, a small, stem-like extrusion on the end of the fruit that does not attach to the tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter the specs, every etrog is most valuable right before Sukkot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \"perfect\" etrog sell for hundreds of dollars. Israel grows about one million etrogs each year, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.moag.gov.il/agri/English/About+the+Ministry/Minister+of+Agriculture/default.htm\">Ministry of Agriculture\u003c/a>. A third are exported, most to the U.S. Israel imports etrogs, too, particularly from Morocco and Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Jews weren't the only people to prize the fruit – ancient Greeks and Romans loved the scent and ate the pith in salads. Candied citron is critical to many an English Christmas table and citron preserve is important to pastry making in Italy. But the big etrog party happens in Jewish homes in the fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The average retail price in Israel before Sukkot, according to government figures, is 40 Israeli shekels, or about $11, for one etrog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after Sukkot, they're worth almost nothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbi Rosen says it breaks no religious rules just to toss the etrog out with other holiday leftovers. \"It doesn't have any sanctity,\" he says. \"It isn't something like a Torah scroll that has God's name written in it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nevertheless, because it's used for a religious service,\" he adds, \"One doesn't want to be disrespectful.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So there are some \u003ca href=\"http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/112933/dont-discard-that-etrog\">common options\u003c/a> to the garbage bin. Jam is popular. So is making etrog liquor. Some people poke cloves in the etrog skin and use it in weekly Sabbath prayers as long as it stays fragrant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man with the most answers may be Uzi Eli, otherwise known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.etrogman.com/\">Etrog Man\u003c/a>. At a small shop in Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda market, the 72-year-old and his son Or sell fresh etrog juice, etrog skin cream, etrog spray, etrog mustard, etrog jam and soap and candles made with and in the shape of an etrog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Young people buy the spray for acne,\" Uzi says. \"The skin cream is very popular with ladies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He makes a rub to clear sinuses, made of menthol, ginger, cayenne, camphor, along, of course, with etrog. Another concoction is intended to fight morning sickness. Etrog has a traditional association as being helpful in pregnancies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If a pregnant woman eats a lot of etrog in the ninth month, the smell of her baby will be like etrog,\" says Uzi's son Or.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For their business, looks don't matter, so they can pick up etrog, especially after Sukkot, for about $2 a pound.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"An odd, beautiful and persnickety citrus fruit has its big moment during the Jewish fall festival of Sukkot. But then what do you do with it?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1412354865,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":32,"wordCount":1234},"headData":{"title":"The Birth And Afterlife Of Israel's Precious Etrog Fruit | KQED","description":"An odd, beautiful and persnickety citrus fruit has its big moment during the Jewish fall festival of Sukkot. But then what do you do with it?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Birth And Afterlife Of Israel's Precious Etrog Fruit","datePublished":"2014-10-03T16:47:45.000Z","dateModified":"2014-10-03T16:47:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"88395 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=88395","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/10/03/the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit/","disqusTitle":"The Birth And Afterlife Of Israel's Precious Etrog Fruit","nprByline":"Emily Harris","nprStoryId":"353311090","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=353311090&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/03/353311090/the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit?ft=3&f=353311090","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 03 Oct 2014 11:09:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 03 Oct 2014 11:09:25 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 03 Oct 2014 11:09:25 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/88395/the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88396\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog3_wide-621cd57ace3be6130c5e8154b9ccbf900bfea2ca-e1412354326844.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog3_wide-621cd57ace3be6130c5e8154b9ccbf900bfea2ca-e1412354326844.jpg\" alt=\"A man picks up an etrog, one of four plant species used during the celebration of Sukkot, in the ultra-Orthodox city of Bnei Brak in central Israel in September, 2012. Photo: Jack Guez /AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88396\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A man picks up an etrog, one of four plant species used during the celebration of Sukkot, in the ultra-Orthodox city of Bnei Brak in central Israel in September, 2012. Photo: Jack Guez /AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Emily Harris, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/03/353311090/the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/3/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a temporary warehouse in Israel's ultra-Orthodox town of Bnei Brak, Shaul Kalimi examines etrogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From boxes stacked nearby, he takes one bumpy green citrus at a time out of padded wrapping, holds it in both hands, brings it close to his nose and peers over his glasses for a good look. He rotates each etrog slowly, checking if it's suitable to serve as a \"beautiful fruit\" — as the Bible calls for — in ceremonies during the Jewish holiday known as Sukkot. Sukkot, which commences sundown on Oct. 8, marks the harvest and the Biblical tale of Jewish people wandering the desert for 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm looking to see if it's symmetrical, not leaning,\" he says. \"I'm checking that the top third is free of blemishes. As for the color, I'll put it with an apple and it should turn yellow in two days.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88397\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog21_custom-9b55dd2265094028bac5a1707b3daa4f07b48d35-e1412354460541.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog21_custom-9b55dd2265094028bac5a1707b3daa4f07b48d35-e1412354460541.jpg\" alt=\"A wholesaler picking out fruit in an Israeli etrog orchard weighs a large Yemen-style etrog against a smaller variety. He prefers the small ones, and will search through stacks of boxes to find those he considers most beautiful. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88397\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A wholesaler picking out fruit in an Israeli etrog orchard weighs a large Yemen-style etrog against a smaller variety. He prefers the small ones, and will search through stacks of boxes to find those he considers most beautiful. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kalimi's eight-year-old son, Shoam, watches his dad and examines fruit, too. For those who value a perfect etrog, the secret of finding one is worth passing on through generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Called \"citron\" in English and etrog in Hebrew, this fruit is believed to be the first citrus to arrive on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Archeological evidence — pollen imprints in the walls of a Persian palace in what's now Jerusalem — points to etrogs appearing in the area as early as the 7th century BC, says \u003ca href=\"http://departments.agri.huji.ac.il/horticulture/staff-eng/goldschmidt.html\">Eleizer E. Goldschmidt\u003c/a>, a professor of agriculture and etrog specialist at Hebrew University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says etrogs have been used in Sukkot religious rituals since at least the second century BC. It's one of four species, representing different aspects of agriculture, that observant Jews wave and pray over during the holiday ceremonies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Etrog isn't specifically named in the Hebrew bible, but it has played the role of \"beautiful fruit\" for millennia because it has been considered so special for so long, Goldschmidt says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have no idea how exotic citrus fruits were\" when they first arrived around the Mediterranean, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since perhaps that long ago, rabbis have debated both the proper look of an etrog and its symbolism. Some suggest it represents the heart, says Rabbi \u003ca href=\"http://www.rabbidavidrosen.net/\">David Rosen\u003c/a>, the international director of interreligious affairs for the AJC (formerly the American Jewish Committee). The three other plants used in Sukkot ceremonies — palm, willow and myrtle — represent other parts of the body, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So when we take the four species together, it's a symbol of the whole body and all its components being devoted and dedication to God,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another popular view is that these plants, each with a different balance of taste and fragrance, represent the mix of good deeds and knowledge among people. The willow offers neither taste nor fragrance, Rosen notes. Myrtle smells good but has no taste. Palms produce delicious dates but no significant scent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Etrog skin, when rubbed, is intoxicating and fragrant, somewhat like a lemon. Although hardly a meal, the thick white pith inside is edible, and mildly sweet. One etrog variety has very small juice sacs in the center, although the giant Yemenite etrog has no juice inside at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Etrog are tricky to grow, especially with the unblemished skin desirable for Sukkot ceremonies. In Israel's muggy lowlands, 77-year-old Arieh Antman has been growing etrogs for decades. It's a hassle, he says. Trees bear fruit for less than a decade, the crop must be sprayed with pesticides twice daily. And the leaves, with sharp, serrated edges, must be tied back so none might brush and blemish the skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he sticks with it, in part because he finds the whole cycle beautiful. One tree can have blossoms, green leaves and fruit all at the same time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've fallen in love with this crop,\" he says. \"Otherwise, I'd quit farming it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog1_wide-1ae9a0303f6db9a772f6726505d1f2173c751564-e1412354641429.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/etrog1_wide-1ae9a0303f6db9a772f6726505d1f2173c751564-e1412354641429.jpg\" alt=\"Israeli farmer Arieh Antman has been growing the labor-intensive etrog for decades. Leaves must be tied away from the fruit so their serrated edges won't mar the etrog skin. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88398\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Israeli farmer Arieh Antman has been growing the labor-intensive etrog for decades. Leaves must be tied away from the fruit so their serrated edges won't mar the etrog skin. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some people prize an etrog with a \u003cem>girdel\u003c/em>, an indentation around the middle that makes the fruit resemble images of a woman's figure. Others will only consider an etrog with the \u003cem>pitam\u003c/em>, a small, stem-like extrusion on the end of the fruit that does not attach to the tree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No matter the specs, every etrog is most valuable right before Sukkot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \"perfect\" etrog sell for hundreds of dollars. Israel grows about one million etrogs each year, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.moag.gov.il/agri/English/About+the+Ministry/Minister+of+Agriculture/default.htm\">Ministry of Agriculture\u003c/a>. A third are exported, most to the U.S. Israel imports etrogs, too, particularly from Morocco and Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Jews weren't the only people to prize the fruit – ancient Greeks and Romans loved the scent and ate the pith in salads. Candied citron is critical to many an English Christmas table and citron preserve is important to pastry making in Italy. But the big etrog party happens in Jewish homes in the fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The average retail price in Israel before Sukkot, according to government figures, is 40 Israeli shekels, or about $11, for one etrog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But after Sukkot, they're worth almost nothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rabbi Rosen says it breaks no religious rules just to toss the etrog out with other holiday leftovers. \"It doesn't have any sanctity,\" he says. \"It isn't something like a Torah scroll that has God's name written in it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nevertheless, because it's used for a religious service,\" he adds, \"One doesn't want to be disrespectful.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So there are some \u003ca href=\"http://www.tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/112933/dont-discard-that-etrog\">common options\u003c/a> to the garbage bin. Jam is popular. So is making etrog liquor. Some people poke cloves in the etrog skin and use it in weekly Sabbath prayers as long as it stays fragrant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man with the most answers may be Uzi Eli, otherwise known as \u003ca href=\"http://www.etrogman.com/\">Etrog Man\u003c/a>. At a small shop in Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda market, the 72-year-old and his son Or sell fresh etrog juice, etrog skin cream, etrog spray, etrog mustard, etrog jam and soap and candles made with and in the shape of an etrog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Young people buy the spray for acne,\" Uzi says. \"The skin cream is very popular with ladies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He makes a rub to clear sinuses, made of menthol, ginger, cayenne, camphor, along, of course, with etrog. Another concoction is intended to fight morning sickness. Etrog has a traditional association as being helpful in pregnancies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If a pregnant woman eats a lot of etrog in the ninth month, the smell of her baby will be like etrog,\" says Uzi's son Or.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For their business, looks don't matter, so they can pick up etrog, especially after Sukkot, for about $2 a pound.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/88395/the-birth-and-afterlife-of-israels-precious-etrog-fruit","authors":["byline_bayareabites_88395"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_13862","bayareabites_13863","bayareabites_9677","bayareabites_12203","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_3532","bayareabites_13843"],"featImg":"bayareabites_88396","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_88076":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_88076","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"88076","score":null,"sort":[1411842366000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"beyond-the-kibbutz-a-jewish-farm-renaissance","title":"Beyond The Kibbutz: A Jewish Farm Renaissance","publishDate":1411842366,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 680px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/pumpkins_ElatChayyim-e1411361885521-680x331.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/pumpkins_ElatChayyim-e1411361885521-680x331.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\" width=\"680\" height=\"331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/jfrochtzwajg/\" target=\"_blank\">Jonathan Frochtzwajg\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/22/beyond-the-kibbutz-the-jewish-farm-renaissance/\" target=\"_blank\">Civil Eats\u003c/a> (9/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Editor’s note: This is the first in a multipart series about the connections between faith and farming\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every fall, Paul Dinberg builds a kind of thatch-roofed hut on \u003ca href=\"http://littlegnomefarm.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\">his 10-acre farm in Ridgefield, Washington\u003c/a>. This “sukkah,” a ceremonial structure Jews are commanded to construct and (for the very observant) live in for the holiday of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukkot\" target=\"_blank\">Sukkot\u003c/a>, commemorates the Israelites’ 40 years of desert-wandering. But sukkahs also have agricultural roots, possibly harking back to temporary structures ancient Jewish farmers would live in during harvest time. For a modern-day Jewish farmer like Dinberg, that gives Sukkot—which begins at sundown October 8 this year—special meaning. “We observe all the different festivals, but as a family, Sukkot is our favorite,” he says. “What gives me satisfaction is the connection to the agricultural cycle.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though many American Jews observe Sukkot, visiting their synagogue’s sukkah or building one in their backyard (or on their fire escape, as many do in urban areas), only a tiny minority can claim such an authentic connection to the holiday. Despite a history as a largely agricultural society, as well as modern traditions such as the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kibbutz\" target=\"_blank\">kibbutz\u003c/a> (a farming-based collective community), it’s safe to say most American Jews are no longer strongly connected to the land: according to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewforum.org/2013/10/01/jewish-american-beliefs-attitudes-culture-survey/\" target=\"_blank\">2013 Pew Research Center survey\u003c/a>, 96 percent live in urban or suburban areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As interest in farming and food has grown among Americans in general, though, increasing numbers of this thoroughly citified minority are going back to the land—and bringing with them a millenia-old, rich agrarian heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s been an incredible amount of growth over the past 15 years,” says Liz Traison, a program associate at the Jewish sustainability organization \u003ca href=\"http://hazon.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Hazon\u003c/a>. A \u003ca href=\"http://hazon.org/transformative-experiences/jofee/\" target=\"_blank\">study the group released earlier this year\u003c/a> found that the annual number of participants in immersive “Jewish Outdoor, Food, and Environmental Education” (JOFEE) programs increased twelvefold between 2000 and 2012. “When people can see where food comes from and feel like they’re part of their community, that’s a powerful and spiritual experience,” Traison says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jewish Environmental Fellowship is one of several farming-focused JOFFE programs that have cropped up in the last decade or so. It brings a cohort of young adults to \u003ca href=\"http://hazon.org/adamah/\" target=\"_blank\">Adamah\u003c/a>, the country’s leading Jewish educational farm, for three months of organic farming and self-cultivation. Fellows bookend days working on the six-acre tract in Falls Village, Connecticut with morning meditation and evening classes on agriculture-related theology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s an opportunity for folks to reconnect with a culture that has been forcibly removed from any relationship with the land for thousands of years,” says Shamu Sadeh, Adamah’s director. “What does it mean to look at liturgy, or Bible stories, or kosher laws through the eyes of a farmer? It brings that stuff to life in a way you’re not otherwise going to get.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88079\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/onions_ElatChayyim.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/onions_ElatChayyim.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"685\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88079\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Outside of institutions such as Adamah, there’s growing energy around the concept of Jewish “intentional communities” featuring farming elements. The first-ever Jewish Intentional Communities Conference, put on by Hazon last fall, drew 188 people. Among the attendees were delegates from Israeli \u003cem>kibbutzim\u003c/em>—institutions with which no Jewish, agriculture-based intentional community in America can avoid comparison. Indeed, many of the ideals that inspired pioneering “kibbutzniks”—self-reliance, honest work—echo in the contemporary U.S. intentional-community movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s still so much to learn in the intentional-community world about the rise and fall of the traditional kibbutz movement in Israel,” Traison says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there are individual Jewish farmers—like Paul Dinberg. After getting laid off from a job with the City of Portland, Oregon, Dinberg decided to leave behind the cubicle farm for, well, an actual farm. (He’d worked summers as a farm worker during grad school.) Part of his motivation, he says, came from the Jewish concept of \u003cem>tikkun olam\u003c/em>, or “repairing the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a social-action part of being a Jew, where you’re supposed to do something good in the world,” Dinberg explains. “Farming allows me to do that—care for the earth, be a partner with God, provide opportunities for people through good food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the 51-year-old runs an organic farm and community-supported agriculture (CSA) program just over the Columbia River from Portland. \u003ca href=\"http://littlegnomefarm.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Little Gnome Farm\u003c/a> (“little-known”—get it?) operates according to such biodynamic farming methods as planting and harvesting on a lunar calendar—exactly, Dinberg notes, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hebrew_calendar\" target=\"_blank\">as his ancient Jewish forebears did\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seated at his beat-up patio table in a John Deere cap and shorts, Dinberg argues that the lessons Jewish scripture offers about agriculture are more relevant than ever as the globe warms. “The Torah,” he says, “lays out how we’re supposed to relate to planet Earth and how if you idolize things like money, you’ll be pushed off the earth that sustains you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinberg’s not the only new Jewish back-to-lander who has drawn a connection between farming and the Judaic value of humility. Traison observes that Judaism and farming alike teach that “we live in a world we can’t quite control”—and provide their practitioners with a path to help navigate it. Adamah’s Sadeh, too, sees in agriculture a means for Jews (and everyone) to gain a broader, more spiritual perspective. At Adamah, he says, “we’re trying to provide a connection to wonder that comes from working within natural systems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The foundation of any religion is not about laws, or what you eat, or how you practice specific rituals,” Sadeh says. “It’s about ‘wow.’ It’s about the fundamental human experience of awe. Farming’s a great way to get back to that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Writer\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n Jonathan Frochtzwajg is a Portland, Oregon–based freelance journalist whose work has been published in T\u003cem>he Oregonian, Portland Monthly, BUST, Bitch, Modern Farmer, Willamette Week, Oregon Business, the Portland Mercury, Smith Journal\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Los Angeles CityBeat\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"“There’s a social-action part of being a Jew, where you’re supposed to do something good in the world,” Dinberg explains. “Farming allows me to do that—care for the earth, be a partner with God, provide opportunities for people through good food.”","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1411842366,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1114},"headData":{"title":"Beyond The Kibbutz: A Jewish Farm Renaissance | KQED","description":"“There’s a social-action part of being a Jew, where you’re supposed to do something good in the world,” Dinberg explains. “Farming allows me to do that—care for the earth, be a partner with God, provide opportunities for people through good food.”","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Beyond The Kibbutz: A Jewish Farm Renaissance","datePublished":"2014-09-27T18:26:06.000Z","dateModified":"2014-09-27T18:26:06.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"88076 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=88076","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/09/27/beyond-the-kibbutz-a-jewish-farm-renaissance/","disqusTitle":"Beyond The Kibbutz: A Jewish Farm Renaissance","path":"/bayareabites/88076/beyond-the-kibbutz-a-jewish-farm-renaissance","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 680px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/pumpkins_ElatChayyim-e1411361885521-680x331.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/pumpkins_ElatChayyim-e1411361885521-680x331.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\" width=\"680\" height=\"331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/jfrochtzwajg/\" target=\"_blank\">Jonathan Frochtzwajg\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/09/22/beyond-the-kibbutz-the-jewish-farm-renaissance/\" target=\"_blank\">Civil Eats\u003c/a> (9/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Editor’s note: This is the first in a multipart series about the connections between faith and farming\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every fall, Paul Dinberg builds a kind of thatch-roofed hut on \u003ca href=\"http://littlegnomefarm.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\">his 10-acre farm in Ridgefield, Washington\u003c/a>. This “sukkah,” a ceremonial structure Jews are commanded to construct and (for the very observant) live in for the holiday of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukkot\" target=\"_blank\">Sukkot\u003c/a>, commemorates the Israelites’ 40 years of desert-wandering. But sukkahs also have agricultural roots, possibly harking back to temporary structures ancient Jewish farmers would live in during harvest time. For a modern-day Jewish farmer like Dinberg, that gives Sukkot—which begins at sundown October 8 this year—special meaning. “We observe all the different festivals, but as a family, Sukkot is our favorite,” he says. “What gives me satisfaction is the connection to the agricultural cycle.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though many American Jews observe Sukkot, visiting their synagogue’s sukkah or building one in their backyard (or on their fire escape, as many do in urban areas), only a tiny minority can claim such an authentic connection to the holiday. Despite a history as a largely agricultural society, as well as modern traditions such as the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kibbutz\" target=\"_blank\">kibbutz\u003c/a> (a farming-based collective community), it’s safe to say most American Jews are no longer strongly connected to the land: according to a \u003ca href=\"http://www.pewforum.org/2013/10/01/jewish-american-beliefs-attitudes-culture-survey/\" target=\"_blank\">2013 Pew Research Center survey\u003c/a>, 96 percent live in urban or suburban areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As interest in farming and food has grown among Americans in general, though, increasing numbers of this thoroughly citified minority are going back to the land—and bringing with them a millenia-old, rich agrarian heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s been an incredible amount of growth over the past 15 years,” says Liz Traison, a program associate at the Jewish sustainability organization \u003ca href=\"http://hazon.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Hazon\u003c/a>. A \u003ca href=\"http://hazon.org/transformative-experiences/jofee/\" target=\"_blank\">study the group released earlier this year\u003c/a> found that the annual number of participants in immersive “Jewish Outdoor, Food, and Environmental Education” (JOFEE) programs increased twelvefold between 2000 and 2012. “When people can see where food comes from and feel like they’re part of their community, that’s a powerful and spiritual experience,” Traison says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jewish Environmental Fellowship is one of several farming-focused JOFFE programs that have cropped up in the last decade or so. It brings a cohort of young adults to \u003ca href=\"http://hazon.org/adamah/\" target=\"_blank\">Adamah\u003c/a>, the country’s leading Jewish educational farm, for three months of organic farming and self-cultivation. Fellows bookend days working on the six-acre tract in Falls Village, Connecticut with morning meditation and evening classes on agriculture-related theology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s an opportunity for folks to reconnect with a culture that has been forcibly removed from any relationship with the land for thousands of years,” says Shamu Sadeh, Adamah’s director. “What does it mean to look at liturgy, or Bible stories, or kosher laws through the eyes of a farmer? It brings that stuff to life in a way you’re not otherwise going to get.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_88079\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/onions_ElatChayyim.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/onions_ElatChayyim.jpg\" alt=\"Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"685\" class=\"size-full wp-image-88079\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo courtesy of the Adamah farm at the Isabella Freedman Jewish Retreat Center.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Outside of institutions such as Adamah, there’s growing energy around the concept of Jewish “intentional communities” featuring farming elements. The first-ever Jewish Intentional Communities Conference, put on by Hazon last fall, drew 188 people. Among the attendees were delegates from Israeli \u003cem>kibbutzim\u003c/em>—institutions with which no Jewish, agriculture-based intentional community in America can avoid comparison. Indeed, many of the ideals that inspired pioneering “kibbutzniks”—self-reliance, honest work—echo in the contemporary U.S. intentional-community movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s still so much to learn in the intentional-community world about the rise and fall of the traditional kibbutz movement in Israel,” Traison says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there are individual Jewish farmers—like Paul Dinberg. After getting laid off from a job with the City of Portland, Oregon, Dinberg decided to leave behind the cubicle farm for, well, an actual farm. (He’d worked summers as a farm worker during grad school.) Part of his motivation, he says, came from the Jewish concept of \u003cem>tikkun olam\u003c/em>, or “repairing the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a social-action part of being a Jew, where you’re supposed to do something good in the world,” Dinberg explains. “Farming allows me to do that—care for the earth, be a partner with God, provide opportunities for people through good food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the 51-year-old runs an organic farm and community-supported agriculture (CSA) program just over the Columbia River from Portland. \u003ca href=\"http://littlegnomefarm.blogspot.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Little Gnome Farm\u003c/a> (“little-known”—get it?) operates according to such biodynamic farming methods as planting and harvesting on a lunar calendar—exactly, Dinberg notes, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hebrew_calendar\" target=\"_blank\">as his ancient Jewish forebears did\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seated at his beat-up patio table in a John Deere cap and shorts, Dinberg argues that the lessons Jewish scripture offers about agriculture are more relevant than ever as the globe warms. “The Torah,” he says, “lays out how we’re supposed to relate to planet Earth and how if you idolize things like money, you’ll be pushed off the earth that sustains you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dinberg’s not the only new Jewish back-to-lander who has drawn a connection between farming and the Judaic value of humility. Traison observes that Judaism and farming alike teach that “we live in a world we can’t quite control”—and provide their practitioners with a path to help navigate it. Adamah’s Sadeh, too, sees in agriculture a means for Jews (and everyone) to gain a broader, more spiritual perspective. At Adamah, he says, “we’re trying to provide a connection to wonder that comes from working within natural systems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The foundation of any religion is not about laws, or what you eat, or how you practice specific rituals,” Sadeh says. “It’s about ‘wow.’ It’s about the fundamental human experience of awe. Farming’s a great way to get back to that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Writer\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n Jonathan Frochtzwajg is a Portland, Oregon–based freelance journalist whose work has been published in T\u003cem>he Oregonian, Portland Monthly, BUST, Bitch, Modern Farmer, Willamette Week, Oregon Business, the Portland Mercury, Smith Journal\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Los Angeles CityBeat\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/88076/beyond-the-kibbutz-a-jewish-farm-renaissance","authors":["5583"],"categories":["bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_12493","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_13845","bayareabites_13844","bayareabites_12203","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_13842","bayareabites_13841","bayareabites_13843"],"featImg":"bayareabites_88080","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_68060":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_68060","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"68060","score":null,"sort":[1376333463000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank","title":"The Complications of Getting Running Water in the West Bank ","publishDate":1376333463,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-full.jpg\" alt=\"Big green storage tanks hold water for the planned Palestinian town of Rawabi in the West Bank, where water is often a source of contention. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big green storage tanks hold water for the planned Palestinian town of Rawabi in the West Bank, where water is often a source of contention. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/08/12/205736028/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130812_me_02.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/193955788/emily-harris\">Emily Harris\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/08/12/205736028/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank\">Parallels at NPR\u003c/a> (8/12/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four enormous water tanks sit high on a hill in the West Bank. These hold the lifeblood for Rawabi, the first planned, privately developed Palestinian community, about 25 miles north of Jerusalem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After five years, the first neighborhood is nearly built. But developer Bashar al-Masri is worried, because when it comes to water, Israel controls the spigot in the occupied West Bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're about to have people move into the city,\" he says, \"and we still do not have a solid solution for the water.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, a 2-inch temporary pipe brings in less than half the water needed for construction and to run the offices. The rest is trucked in to those storage tanks, an extra expense and hassle. Rawabi's first residents are due to move in at the end of this year. Eventually, developers hope, 40,000 people will call Rawabi home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68081\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water2.jpg\" alt=\"Cement mixers in Rawabi, a planned Palestinian town in the West Bank, about 25 miles north of Jerusalem. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"743\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68081\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cement mixers in Rawabi, a planned Palestinian town in the West Bank, about 25 miles north of Jerusalem. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They also hope this will be a new kind of living experience. Rawabi is designed to offer an environmentally friendly, middle-class lifestyle. There will be walking and biking paths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like in Israel, but unlike in any other Palestinian city, wastewater here will be cleaned and reused to irrigate landscaping. Homes will have meters to help monitor water use and instant hot water to reduce waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amir Dajani, the deputy managing director of the project, says these are big cultural changes. Most Palestinian homes have their own water tanks on the roof, because in the West Bank water comes through the pipes erratically. Some places get it several times a week; some places less than once a month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People hug their tanks in the summer,\" Dajani says. \"If they go up on the roof and feel the tank, they know that there is enough water to keep them going.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Seeking Israeli Approval\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get enough water to keep Rawabi going, a new pipe needs to be laid. And because that pipe would run across territory entirely controlled by Israel, in what's called \"Area C\" in the West Bank, the community needs Israeli permission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An application is in to a joint Israeli-Palestinian commission. But Israeli water expert professor Alon Tal says it's a lopsided relationship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Israel doesn't need Palestinian permission to undertake any number of water development projects,\" he says. \"Palestinians are required to get Israeli permission to do so.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says he believes Rawabi will get its pipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think all the major decision makers, including our prime minister, see Rawabi as a good thing,\" says Tal, who supports the idea himself. \"It sends a message to the world that Israel's not trying to sabotage Palestinian development; it sends a message to the Palestinians: It pays to cooperate; we're going to let you guys develop new cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the first city in the West Bank in what, 100 years?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Developer Masri is not so sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have had positive feedback from the Israeli authorities since day one,\" he says. \"But the delivery is very slow and always incomplete. Always incomplete.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Political Pressure\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an example, he points to Rawabi's attempt to get a road built to the city big enough to handle, first, construction traffic, then residents. The road also crosses part of Area C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water3.jpg\" alt=\"Palestinian flags at the top of Rawabi, where residents are planning to move in shortly. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"415\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68082\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palestinian flags at the top of Rawabi, where residents are planning to move in shortly. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Israel eventually permitted a temporary road. A Western official told NPR that Tony Blair, the former British prime minister who now serves as the official envoy of the Mideast Quartet, had raised the issue with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Israeli professor Tal says the question of Rawabi's water could also get caught up in politics – even in peace negotiations, if they begin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Israel grants a certain amount of water, under agreement, to the Palestinians,\" he says, noting that the amount Israel provides the West Bank has grown since figures were first worked out under the Oslo Accords two decades ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very easy for us to increase that. But that's a concession. What are they going to do for us? At least this is the thinking of Israeli politicians,\" Tal says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry is pushing a $4 billion economic investment plan for the West Bank, to parallel potential political negotiations with Israel. No details have been made public, but Kerry has spoken about removing \"bottlenecks and barriers\" to business in the West Bank. Experts in the West Bank economy say allowing development in Area C could be an important piece of that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rawabi's developer says even if Israel gave the green light for a water line right now, he would expect to continue hauling water even as early residents move in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But whether we haul it for three or four months or three or four years – that's the big question,\" he says.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Rawabi, a privately developed Palestinian community, sits in the West Bank. The first residents are due to move in later this year, but its developer is worried about water. To get a pipe laid, Rawabi needs Israeli permission. Israel has cooperated, but the Palestinian developer says the cooperation has been \"very slow and always incomplete.\"","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1376333463,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":904},"headData":{"title":"The Complications of Getting Running Water in the West Bank | KQED","description":"Rawabi, a privately developed Palestinian community, sits in the West Bank. The first residents are due to move in later this year, but its developer is worried about water. To get a pipe laid, Rawabi needs Israeli permission. Israel has cooperated, but the Palestinian developer says the cooperation has been "very slow and always incomplete."","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Complications of Getting Running Water in the West Bank ","datePublished":"2013-08-12T18:51:03.000Z","dateModified":"2013-08-12T18:51:03.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"68060 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=68060","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/12/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank/","disqusTitle":"The Complications of Getting Running Water in the West Bank ","nprByline":"Emily Harris","nprStoryId":"205736028","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=205736028&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/08/12/205736028/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank?ft=3&f=205736028","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 12 Aug 2013 08:53:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 12 Aug 2013 04:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 12 Aug 2013 08:53:43 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130812_me_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1009&ft=3&f=205736028","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1211279124-71381a.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1009&ft=3&f=205736028","path":"/bayareabites/68060/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130812_me_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1009&ft=3&f=205736028","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water-full.jpg\" alt=\"Big green storage tanks hold water for the planned Palestinian town of Rawabi in the West Bank, where water is often a source of contention. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Big green storage tanks hold water for the planned Palestinian town of Rawabi in the West Bank, where water is often a source of contention. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/08/12/205736028/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130812_me_02.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/193955788/emily-harris\">Emily Harris\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/08/12/205736028/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank\">Parallels at NPR\u003c/a> (8/12/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four enormous water tanks sit high on a hill in the West Bank. These hold the lifeblood for Rawabi, the first planned, privately developed Palestinian community, about 25 miles north of Jerusalem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After five years, the first neighborhood is nearly built. But developer Bashar al-Masri is worried, because when it comes to water, Israel controls the spigot in the occupied West Bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're about to have people move into the city,\" he says, \"and we still do not have a solid solution for the water.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, a 2-inch temporary pipe brings in less than half the water needed for construction and to run the offices. The rest is trucked in to those storage tanks, an extra expense and hassle. Rawabi's first residents are due to move in at the end of this year. Eventually, developers hope, 40,000 people will call Rawabi home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68081\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water2.jpg\" alt=\"Cement mixers in Rawabi, a planned Palestinian town in the West Bank, about 25 miles north of Jerusalem. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"743\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68081\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cement mixers in Rawabi, a planned Palestinian town in the West Bank, about 25 miles north of Jerusalem. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They also hope this will be a new kind of living experience. Rawabi is designed to offer an environmentally friendly, middle-class lifestyle. There will be walking and biking paths.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like in Israel, but unlike in any other Palestinian city, wastewater here will be cleaned and reused to irrigate landscaping. Homes will have meters to help monitor water use and instant hot water to reduce waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amir Dajani, the deputy managing director of the project, says these are big cultural changes. Most Palestinian homes have their own water tanks on the roof, because in the West Bank water comes through the pipes erratically. Some places get it several times a week; some places less than once a month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People hug their tanks in the summer,\" Dajani says. \"If they go up on the roof and feel the tank, they know that there is enough water to keep them going.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Seeking Israeli Approval\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get enough water to keep Rawabi going, a new pipe needs to be laid. And because that pipe would run across territory entirely controlled by Israel, in what's called \"Area C\" in the West Bank, the community needs Israeli permission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An application is in to a joint Israeli-Palestinian commission. But Israeli water expert professor Alon Tal says it's a lopsided relationship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Israel doesn't need Palestinian permission to undertake any number of water development projects,\" he says. \"Palestinians are required to get Israeli permission to do so.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says he believes Rawabi will get its pipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think all the major decision makers, including our prime minister, see Rawabi as a good thing,\" says Tal, who supports the idea himself. \"It sends a message to the world that Israel's not trying to sabotage Palestinian development; it sends a message to the Palestinians: It pays to cooperate; we're going to let you guys develop new cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the first city in the West Bank in what, 100 years?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Developer Masri is not so sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have had positive feedback from the Israeli authorities since day one,\" he says. \"But the delivery is very slow and always incomplete. Always incomplete.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Political Pressure\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an example, he points to Rawabi's attempt to get a road built to the city big enough to handle, first, construction traffic, then residents. The road also crosses part of Area C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/water3.jpg\" alt=\"Palestinian flags at the top of Rawabi, where residents are planning to move in shortly. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"415\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68082\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palestinian flags at the top of Rawabi, where residents are planning to move in shortly. Photo: Emily Harris/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Israel eventually permitted a temporary road. A Western official told NPR that Tony Blair, the former British prime minister who now serves as the official envoy of the Mideast Quartet, had raised the issue with Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Israeli professor Tal says the question of Rawabi's water could also get caught up in politics – even in peace negotiations, if they begin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Israel grants a certain amount of water, under agreement, to the Palestinians,\" he says, noting that the amount Israel provides the West Bank has grown since figures were first worked out under the Oslo Accords two decades ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very easy for us to increase that. But that's a concession. What are they going to do for us? At least this is the thinking of Israeli politicians,\" Tal says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry is pushing a $4 billion economic investment plan for the West Bank, to parallel potential political negotiations with Israel. No details have been made public, but Kerry has spoken about removing \"bottlenecks and barriers\" to business in the West Bank. Experts in the West Bank economy say allowing development in Area C could be an important piece of that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rawabi's developer says even if Israel gave the green light for a water line right now, he would expect to continue hauling water even as early residents move in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But whether we haul it for three or four months or three or four years – that's the big question,\" he says.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/68060/the-complications-of-getting-running-water-in-the-west-bank","authors":["byline_bayareabites_68060"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_12203","bayareabites_12204","bayareabites_1344","bayareabites_12202"],"featImg":"bayareabites_68079","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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