Table Talk: It’s Time for Rosé and Tacos and Cake and Amatriciana Pizza
Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History
Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her "Modern Art Desserts"
Apple Crumb Cake: A Naughty Version of the Nice
Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw
A Week at The San Francisco Baking Institute
Sponsored
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After attending culinary school and working within New York restaurants and Jeremiah Tower’s legendary Stars in San Francisco, Emily switched to the sweet side of the kitchen and didn’t look back. She was the pastry chef at Stars for eight years and also co-owned the retail bakery \u003cem>StarBake\u003c/em>.\r\n\r\nEmily was then Executive Pastry Chef at San Francisco’s \u003cem>Farallon\u003c/em> from 1997-2014 and Waterbar from 2008-2014. In 2014, she joined the dynamic and creative team at Big Night Restaurant Group (\u003cem>The Cavalier, Marlowe, Park Tavern, Leo’s Oyster Bar\u003c/em>).\r\n\r\nEmily’s pastry style is focused – she creates simple, elegant desserts that are full of flavor. “My goal in creating desserts is to make them fun, straightforward and flavorful – desserts designed to please, delight and just make life rosier,” she said.\r\n\r\nEmily has authored many books on the subject of pastry. Among them are \u003cem>Stars Desserts\u003c/em> (HarperCollins, 1991), \u003cem>Four Star Desserts\u003c/em> (HarperCollins, 1995), \u003cem>A Passion for Desserts\u003c/em>(Chronicle Books, 2003), \u003cem>A Passion for Ice Cream\u003c/em> (Chronicle Books, 2006) and \u003cem>The Fearless Baker\u003c/em> (Little, Brown and Company, 2011). Her first two books were re-released as\u003cem>Classic Stars Desserts\u003c/em> (Chronicle Books, 2007).\r\n\r\nEmily’s honors include the 1998 San Francisco \u003cem>Focus Magazine\u003c/em> Pastry Chef of the Year, the 2001 Women Chefs & Restaurateurs Golden Whisk Award, the 2003 \u003cem>Food Arts Magazine\u003c/em> Silver Spoon Award and the 2004 James Beard Foundation award for Outstanding Pastry Chef. In 2009 the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> chose Emily as one of the 20 Visionary Chefs in the Bay Area, and she was inducted into the Culinary Pioneers of America. In 2012, she was inducted into the James Beard Foundation Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America.\r\n\r\nEmily is passionate about teaching and mentoring chefs and restaurateurs, serving as a Dean at The International Culinary Center in New York. She is the founder of\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.emilyluchetti.com/dessertworthy\">dessertworthy\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> a movement to empower people to be more mindful of their sugar and fat indulgences.\r\n\r\nFrom 1994 to 1999, she served as Chairperson of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs. Emily has served on the James Beard Foundation Board of Trustees for the past 10 years, four years as the Chair of the James Beard Awards Committee and five years as the Chairperson for the Board of Trustees. She also serves as an Oxfam Sister of the Planet.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fffc375e4b7ec1ee51f1e17feb056562?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]}],"headData":{"title":"Emily Luchetti | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fffc375e4b7ec1ee51f1e17feb056562?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/fffc375e4b7ec1ee51f1e17feb056562?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/emilyluchetti"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_139251":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139251","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139251","score":null,"sort":[1602774036000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"flavors-at-home-a-virus-a-fire-a-wedding","title":"Flavors at Home: A Virus, A Fire, A Wedding","publishDate":1602774036,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>In light of the shelter-in-place order, many of us have resorted to cooking at home, revisiting old recipes and getting creative with our pantries. Instead of our usual Flavors Worth Finding column with recommendations from restaurants, KQED staffers are sharing the meals they’ve been making at home to find some comfort and grounding during uncertain times.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We needed a win. All the norms of my community of friends were gone in the time of coronavirus: the group house rental each summer, the potlucks in backyards, the gatherings for birthdays, new babies, and weddings. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Many friends had to postpone weddings meant for summer. One of them was a close friend who was supposed to get married on Memorial Day at our friend’s house in Wine Country. She played a crucial part in my wedding by becoming an overnight florist and providing all the greenery for our celebration. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her wedding, I was gifted the greatest job I could imagine: baking the wedding cake.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"flavors\" label=\"More Flavors at Home\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While that may sound overwhelming to some, this was a magical request for me. First off, I’d started baking a few years back, and instead of finding it overly meticulous, I found it gratifying. I took on increasingly more challenging tasks: scones, babka, a birthday cake made from scratch. A wedding cake felt like the next natural step. Second, this couple is super chill and super grateful, so I knew even a lump of sugary stuff would probably be fine. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So when the bride and groom cancelled their wedding and mourned the loss of their original event, I mourned the loss of being able to spend days designing and executing an edible piece of art.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks later, though, they decided on a new date and a new approach. After all, we needed a win.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It would be in August, same location, with just a handful of people in person and many others on Zoom. The only instruction the couple gave me was that one part of the dessert ought to be a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://food52.com/recipes/34383-chocolate-mochi-snack-cake\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">mochi cake\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, for the groom’s Hawaiian heritage.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139272\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139272\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Cake tins on a stove with different colors. One is yellow, one is res, one is green and one is blue. There is also a pot lid on the stove\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The four rainbow layers of the large cake cool on top of the oven. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I video chatted with a team of baking acquaintances for advice. They spoke in languages that were foreign to me, saying things like “crumb coat,” “icing smoother” and “cake leveler.” I spent several hours on YouTube, watching a whole host of characters with impeccably polished nails teach me how to bake, freeze, defrost, pipe. I was learning so much, about something of seemingly such little consequence, and I felt joy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I wasn’t chipping away at climate change, researching COVID-19 transmission or writing up any article like I did in my day job. I was just… baking.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139271\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139271\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Baker with apron on placing gold leaf on chocolate mochi cupcakes\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer Laura Klivans delicately placing gold lead on chocolate mochi cupcakes. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/ KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I finally settled on my recipes: one large, vanilla, four layer \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sallysbakingaddiction.com/vanilla-cake/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cake\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and several chocolate mochi cupcakes, all frosted with white \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sallysbakingaddiction.com/swiss-meringue-buttercream/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">swiss meringue buttercream\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (I didn’t even know there were different kinds of frosting before this experience) and dotted with gold leaf. The frosting would be white, but each layer inside would be a different color, revealing a rainbow when cut. A pop of life among the challenges of our times. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks before the wedding day, I started making the creations, getting a big assist from the freezer. I worked late at night, well past my bedtime, pumped up on sugar and adrenaline. I watched as mixtures took shape in my Kitchenaid, our counters crowded with cake pans, bags of flour, a borrowed rotating cake stand. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139275\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Unfrosted cake in two layers on a cake stand\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Assembling the bottom of the big cake. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the week before this newly scheduled wedding date, lightning struck—literally. That thunderstorm, rare for the Bay Area, awoke many of us from our sleep with unnerving thunder and the fear of what the storm might mean for fires, destruction and smoke. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My friends felt nervous and upset, their still-fresh wedding vision once again upended. They informed the small wedding group that they’d make a game-time decision, updating us as the event date neared. The home where they planned to celebrate was socked in by smoke and experiencing a heatwave. Nearby towns were evacuated. Closer to home in the Bay Area, smoke began to cover the sky. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I put my finishing touches on desserts intended for a heart-exploding event, with a deflated feeling that no one would eat them, and that my friends may very well feel cursed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139277\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 384px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-139277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-3.jpg\" alt=\"Swiss meringue buttercream in a pale blue Kitchen Aid stand mixer with the whisk attachment on and the attachment in the up position\" width=\"384\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-3.jpg 384w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-3-160x213.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swiss meringue buttercream is a frosting that’s incredibly smooth, and less sweet than traditional American buttercream. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The morning of the wedding, though, we got word that yes, it was on, relocated to the groom’s brother’s backyard in San Francisco’s Bayview \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And there, in a multi-leveled, funky, fenced-in backyard, somehow safeguarded from the smokey air, we celebrated. The bride, outfitted in a white jumpsuit, exuded a triumphant happiness. The groom performed a traditional hula with his mother— who joined him over video conference in Hawaii. The crowd of Zoomers cheered and the socially distanced home team cried. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139278\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-139278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-7.jpg\" alt=\"A rainbow cake that has been cut into with white buttercream frosting on the outside. It's on a teal cakestand with a table surrounded by flowers, gold-stripped plates, cutlery and wedding programs.\" width=\"512\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-7.jpg 512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-7-160x120.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A partially consumed rainbow love cake. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We broke bread with pizza from a local SF joint and then came \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> moment: The bride and groom cut into a towering, detailed white cake to find an array of color. They fed each other their baked treats, and I felt a deep happiness, one that I’d missed for months. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We got our win.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With so many norms upended, could we somehow make a wedding happen for our dear friends?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632005,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":973},"headData":{"title":"Flavors at Home: A Virus, A Fire, A Wedding | KQED","description":"With so many norms upended, could we somehow make a wedding happen for our dear friends?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Flavors at Home: A Virus, A Fire, A Wedding","datePublished":"2020-10-15T15:00:36.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:20:05.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139251 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139251","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/15/flavors-at-home-a-virus-a-fire-a-wedding/","disqusTitle":"Flavors at Home: A Virus, A Fire, A Wedding","nprByline":"Laura Klivans","path":"/bayareabites/139251/flavors-at-home-a-virus-a-fire-a-wedding","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>In light of the shelter-in-place order, many of us have resorted to cooking at home, revisiting old recipes and getting creative with our pantries. Instead of our usual Flavors Worth Finding column with recommendations from restaurants, KQED staffers are sharing the meals they’ve been making at home to find some comfort and grounding during uncertain times.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We needed a win. All the norms of my community of friends were gone in the time of coronavirus: the group house rental each summer, the potlucks in backyards, the gatherings for birthdays, new babies, and weddings. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Many friends had to postpone weddings meant for summer. One of them was a close friend who was supposed to get married on Memorial Day at our friend’s house in Wine Country. She played a crucial part in my wedding by becoming an overnight florist and providing all the greenery for our celebration. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her wedding, I was gifted the greatest job I could imagine: baking the wedding cake.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"flavors","label":"More Flavors at Home "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While that may sound overwhelming to some, this was a magical request for me. First off, I’d started baking a few years back, and instead of finding it overly meticulous, I found it gratifying. I took on increasingly more challenging tasks: scones, babka, a birthday cake made from scratch. A wedding cake felt like the next natural step. Second, this couple is super chill and super grateful, so I knew even a lump of sugary stuff would probably be fine. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So when the bride and groom cancelled their wedding and mourned the loss of their original event, I mourned the loss of being able to spend days designing and executing an edible piece of art.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks later, though, they decided on a new date and a new approach. After all, we needed a win.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It would be in August, same location, with just a handful of people in person and many others on Zoom. The only instruction the couple gave me was that one part of the dessert ought to be a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://food52.com/recipes/34383-chocolate-mochi-snack-cake\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">mochi cake\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, for the groom’s Hawaiian heritage.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139272\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139272\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Cake tins on a stove with different colors. One is yellow, one is res, one is green and one is blue. There is also a pot lid on the stove\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5249-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The four rainbow layers of the large cake cool on top of the oven. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I video chatted with a team of baking acquaintances for advice. They spoke in languages that were foreign to me, saying things like “crumb coat,” “icing smoother” and “cake leveler.” I spent several hours on YouTube, watching a whole host of characters with impeccably polished nails teach me how to bake, freeze, defrost, pipe. I was learning so much, about something of seemingly such little consequence, and I felt joy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I wasn’t chipping away at climate change, researching COVID-19 transmission or writing up any article like I did in my day job. I was just… baking.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139271\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139271\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Baker with apron on placing gold leaf on chocolate mochi cupcakes\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5270.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Writer Laura Klivans delicately placing gold lead on chocolate mochi cupcakes. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/ KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I finally settled on my recipes: one large, vanilla, four layer \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sallysbakingaddiction.com/vanilla-cake/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cake\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and several chocolate mochi cupcakes, all frosted with white \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sallysbakingaddiction.com/swiss-meringue-buttercream/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">swiss meringue buttercream\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (I didn’t even know there were different kinds of frosting before this experience) and dotted with gold leaf. The frosting would be white, but each layer inside would be a different color, revealing a rainbow when cut. A pop of life among the challenges of our times. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks before the wedding day, I started making the creations, getting a big assist from the freezer. I worked late at night, well past my bedtime, pumped up on sugar and adrenaline. I watched as mixtures took shape in my Kitchenaid, our counters crowded with cake pans, bags of flour, a borrowed rotating cake stand. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139275\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Unfrosted cake in two layers on a cake stand\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_5265-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Assembling the bottom of the big cake. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the week before this newly scheduled wedding date, lightning struck—literally. That thunderstorm, rare for the Bay Area, awoke many of us from our sleep with unnerving thunder and the fear of what the storm might mean for fires, destruction and smoke. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My friends felt nervous and upset, their still-fresh wedding vision once again upended. They informed the small wedding group that they’d make a game-time decision, updating us as the event date neared. The home where they planned to celebrate was socked in by smoke and experiencing a heatwave. Nearby towns were evacuated. Closer to home in the Bay Area, smoke began to cover the sky. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I put my finishing touches on desserts intended for a heart-exploding event, with a deflated feeling that no one would eat them, and that my friends may very well feel cursed.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139277\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 384px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-139277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-3.jpg\" alt=\"Swiss meringue buttercream in a pale blue Kitchen Aid stand mixer with the whisk attachment on and the attachment in the up position\" width=\"384\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-3.jpg 384w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-3-160x213.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swiss meringue buttercream is a frosting that’s incredibly smooth, and less sweet than traditional American buttercream. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The morning of the wedding, though, we got word that yes, it was on, relocated to the groom’s brother’s backyard in San Francisco’s Bayview \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And there, in a multi-leveled, funky, fenced-in backyard, somehow safeguarded from the smokey air, we celebrated. The bride, outfitted in a white jumpsuit, exuded a triumphant happiness. The groom performed a traditional hula with his mother— who joined him over video conference in Hawaii. The crowd of Zoomers cheered and the socially distanced home team cried. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139278\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 512px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-139278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-7.jpg\" alt=\"A rainbow cake that has been cut into with white buttercream frosting on the outside. It's on a teal cakestand with a table surrounded by flowers, gold-stripped plates, cutlery and wedding programs.\" width=\"512\" height=\"384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-7.jpg 512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/cake-7-160x120.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A partially consumed rainbow love cake. \u003ccite>(Laura Klivans/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We broke bread with pizza from a local SF joint and then came \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> moment: The bride and groom cut into a towering, detailed white cake to find an array of color. They fed each other their baked treats, and I felt a deep happiness, one that I’d missed for months. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We got our win.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139251/flavors-at-home-a-virus-a-fire-a-wedding","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139251"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16622","bayareabites_16576","bayareabites_16985","bayareabites_16873","bayareabites_16982","bayareabites_16983","bayareabites_16984","bayareabites_1126","bayareabites_15970"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139270","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_137859":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_137859","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"137859","score":null,"sort":[1588388373000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"mini-savory-cheesecakes-on-arugula-or-butterhead-lettuce","title":"Mini Savory Cheesecakes on Arugula or Butterhead Lettuce","publishDate":1588388373,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Jacques Pepin | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16657,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/07/216-jpepinmff-minicheesecakessalad-recipe.pdf\">\u003cb>Printer-friendly recipe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> [pdf]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When I was vacationing a few years ago in Alsace, a region in northeastern France, I was surprised to see that many restaurants featured a savory \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">tarte au fromage\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, a cheese tart made with farmer cheese and eggs and cooked in a pastry shell like a quiche. I decided to make these little savory cheesecakes in small soufflé molds. Instead of lining the molds with dough, I coat them with butter and bread crumbs, so the small cakes can be turned out easily. Serving the cheesecakes on a bed of salad lends an appealing freshness and crunch to the dish and cuts down a little on its richness. These make a great lunch or brunch main course and an elegant first course for dinner.\u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>4 first-course servings\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>Mini Cheesecakes\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 slice bread, processed in a food processor to make 1/2 cup bread crumbs\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 cup (one 8-ounce container) whipped cream cheese\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 large eggs\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/4 cup sour cream\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese, like Stilton or Roquefort\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>Salad\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">3 cups arugula or butterhead lettuce (Bibb or Boston leaves), or another tender, crunchy lettuce\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 teaspoon red wine vinegar\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dash salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For the mini cheesecakes:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously coat four small (3/4-cup) soufflé molds with the butter. Divide the bread crumbs among the molds and coat the bottoms and sides heavily with the crumbs, pressing them onto the buttered dish so they stick.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Put the cream cheese in a medium bowl and add the eggs, sour cream, salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the parsley. Mix well with a whisk and divide among the soufflé molds. Sprinkle the crumbled blue cheese on top of the cream cheese mixture in the molds. Top with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Arrange the molds on a baking sheet and bake for about 20 minutes. The cheesecakes will still be slightly wet and soft in the center. Let cool for 10 minutes before unmolding.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For the salad:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Meanwhile, toss the lettuce leaves with the oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper. Arrange on four plates.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Invert each cooled mini cheesecake into one of your hands to unmold it, then turn it over so it is right side up and place it in the center of one of the plates on top of the lettuce. Serve immediately.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1595012860,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":10,"wordCount":446},"headData":{"title":"Mini Savory Cheesecakes on Arugula or Butterhead Lettuce | KQED","description":"Quick and easy recipes from Jacques Pepin's More Fast Food My Way series. Learn how to make Mini Savory Cheesecakes on Arugula or Butterhead Lettuce","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Mini Savory Cheesecakes on Arugula or Butterhead Lettuce","datePublished":"2020-05-02T02:59:33.000Z","dateModified":"2020-07-17T19:07:40.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"137859 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137859","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/01/mini-savory-cheesecakes-on-arugula-or-butterhead-lettuce/","disqusTitle":"Mini Savory Cheesecakes on Arugula or Butterhead Lettuce","path":"/bayareabites/137859/mini-savory-cheesecakes-on-arugula-or-butterhead-lettuce","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jacques Pépin: More Fast Food My Way\u003c/span>\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/07/216-jpepinmff-minicheesecakessalad-recipe.pdf\">\u003cb>Printer-friendly recipe\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> [pdf]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When I was vacationing a few years ago in Alsace, a region in northeastern France, I was surprised to see that many restaurants featured a savory \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">tarte au fromage\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, a cheese tart made with farmer cheese and eggs and cooked in a pastry shell like a quiche. I decided to make these little savory cheesecakes in small soufflé molds. Instead of lining the molds with dough, I coat them with butter and bread crumbs, so the small cakes can be turned out easily. Serving the cheesecakes on a bed of salad lends an appealing freshness and crunch to the dish and cuts down a little on its richness. These make a great lunch or brunch main course and an elegant first course for dinner.\u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>4 first-course servings\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>Mini Cheesecakes\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 teaspoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 slice bread, processed in a food processor to make 1/2 cup bread crumbs\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 cup (one 8-ounce container) whipped cream cheese\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 large eggs\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/4 cup sour cream\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese, like Stilton or Roquefort\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>Salad\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">3 cups arugula or butterhead lettuce (Bibb or Boston leaves), or another tender, crunchy lettuce\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1 teaspoon red wine vinegar\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dash salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For the mini cheesecakes:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously coat four small (3/4-cup) soufflé molds with the butter. Divide the bread crumbs among the molds and coat the bottoms and sides heavily with the crumbs, pressing them onto the buttered dish so they stick.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Put the cream cheese in a medium bowl and add the eggs, sour cream, salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the parsley. Mix well with a whisk and divide among the soufflé molds. Sprinkle the crumbled blue cheese on top of the cream cheese mixture in the molds. Top with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Arrange the molds on a baking sheet and bake for about 20 minutes. The cheesecakes will still be slightly wet and soft in the center. Let cool for 10 minutes before unmolding.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For the salad:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Meanwhile, toss the lettuce leaves with the oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper. Arrange on four plates.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Invert each cooled mini cheesecake into one of your hands to unmold it, then turn it over so it is right side up and place it in the center of one of the plates on top of the lettuce. Serve immediately.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137859/mini-savory-cheesecakes-on-arugula-or-butterhead-lettuce","authors":["11707"],"series":["bayareabites_16657"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_16661","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_242","bayareabites_16756","bayareabites_16658","bayareabites_16705","bayareabites_16660","bayareabites_1815"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137696","label":"bayareabites_16657"},"bayareabites_131848":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_131848","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"131848","score":null,"sort":[1546451601000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"celebrity-chefs-recipes-emily-luchettis-chocolate-roulade-with-chocolate-chip-ice-cream","title":"Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Emily Luchetti's Chocolate Roulade with Chocolate Chip Ice Cream","publishDate":1546451601,"format":"video","headTitle":"Celebrity Chefs Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16039,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>Photos: \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/vicchin/\">Vic Chin\u003c/a>, Video: Vic Chin and Peter Ruocco\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jelly rolls are classic desserts that look nice but frankly taste boring. But if you make a chocolate cake and substitute ice cream for the jam, you have a must-eat dessert. Call it by its French name “roulade”, serve with caramel sauce, and your friends and family will be over-the-top impressed. The cake has the texture of the cookie on ice cream sandwiches that we all enjoyed as kids...and still do as adults.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"KIXFVmsgDvFdgpkOUVacearKxNXkP8sg\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to use this chocolate cake recipe with any of your favorite ice cream flavors. Serving it with caramel sauce makes the ultimate flavor-trifecta of vanilla, chocolate and caramel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make spreading the ice cream on the cake easier, put it, straight from the freezer, into the bowl of an electric mixer and mix on low speed with the paddle attachment. You can also let it sit out at room temperature for a few minutes before putting it into a bowl and mixing it with a wooden spoon to make it spreadable but still frozen. I don’t recommend the microwave as it can become a melted mess before you know it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This dessert can be made a day or two, or even a week, in advance. Wrap well in plastic wrap and keep frozen until ready to serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Chocolate Roulade with Chocolate Chip Ice Cream\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Serves 8 to 10\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131854\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/DSCF4732-e1546450813307.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate roulade filled with chocolate chip ice cream and topped with the best caramel sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate roulade filled with chocolate chip ice cream and topped with the best caramel sauce. \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ½ tablespoons water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 large eggs, at room temperature, separated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅔ cup granulated sugar, divided\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅛ teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 pints chocolate chip ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Confectioners sugar, to serve\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Best Ever Caramel Sauce, to serve (recipe follows)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>To make the cake:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray an 11-inch-by-17-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray and line the bottom with parchment paper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Melt the chocolate and water together in a double boiler over hot water. Stir until smooth. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a wire whisk, whip the egg yolks on high speed until light in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium and slowly add 1/3 cup of the sugar. Increase the speed to high, and continue to whip until thick and ribbony.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On low speed, stir in the melted chocolate, 1/4 cup of the cocoa powder, and the salt. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using a clean bowl and clean wire whisk, whip the egg whites on medium speed until foamy and beginning to increase in volume. Gradually add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar in a steady stream. Continue to whip on high speed until satiny, stiff peaks form. Place one-third of the egg whites on top of the chocolate mixture, and using a large rubber spatula, carefully fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Repeat with the remaining egg whites and fold just until there are no white streaks remaining.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently and evenly spread the mixture in the prepared pan taking care to get the batter all the way into the corners.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake until the top of the cake springs back when pressed with your fingertip and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 15-20 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the cake is baking, lay a clean thin cotton dish towel on the work surface with the short end toward you. Dust an area of the towel the size of the baking pan with the remaining 2 tablespoons cocoa powder. Remove the cake from the oven and immediately cut around the inside edges of the pan with a small, sharp knife to release the cake. Place one of the long ends of the cake pan on the right side of the towel and invert the pan and the cake on top of the towel so it falls at the end of the towel closest to you and on top of the cocoa dusted area.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully remove the pan and then gently, starting with a corner, peel off the parchment paper. If the cake is not sitting at the end of the towel, fold the towel under itself. From the end closest to you, carefully roll the cake and the towel up together like a jelly roll. Let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>To assemble the roulade:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, soften the ice cream while the cake is cooling. It should be firm but spreadable. Carefully unroll the cake. If it splits anywhere, gently push the broken pieces together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently spread the ice cream over the cake with a large, thin metal spatula, leaving a 1/4-inch border on all sides. Reroll the cake without the towel. Place on a large platter or baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Freeze until firm, about 3 hours, depending on your freezer.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When ready to serve, dust the top of the roulade lightly with confectioners sugar, cut into slices, and serve with a drizzle or puddle of the caramel sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"2C9XMXnzCyaaWgjTyEqOMl86H9OlAlsO\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Caramel sauce makes any dessert better. The trick in making caramel sauce is cooking it to the right color. It’s not hard, you just have to pay attention. You want a rich mahogany color. If it comes out more tan colored and a little thin, the next time cook it a little more. If it has a bit of a burnt taste, next time cook a little less. Using a pot with a light colored interior, like a stainless steel saucepan, will make it easier to see the color of the sugar. Making caramel does take a little practice, the second and third time you make it will be better than the first. It’s like riding a bike. Practice a few times and then you won’t forget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since caramel sauce goes with everything, it’s a good recipe to have in your pastry repertoire. The sauce is easily reheated in a microwave or on the stove top. Caramel sauce lasts for months in the refrigerator if kept in a covered jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Best Ever Caramel Sauce\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes 1 ¾ cups\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131853\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"Best ever caramel sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best ever caramel sauce \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 ½ cups granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy (whipping) cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a medium saucepan, using a heat-resistant spatula, stir together the sugar and the water. Heat over medium-high heat until the sugar is dissolved, 3-5 minutes. Do not stir once the mixture is clear.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Brush the insides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to eliminate any sugar sticking to the sides. Increase the heat to high and cook, without stirring, until the sugar is a rich amber color, 8-10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the pan from the heat. Wearing oven mitts, slowly add one-quarter of the cream to the hot sugar mixture. Be careful as the caramel will sputter as the cream is added. Using a wooden spoon or heat resistant spatula, gently stir the cream into the caramel. If the cream sputters, stop stirring. Let the bubbles subside before stirring again. Carefully add the remaining cream. Stir until combined.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let cool slightly before using.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131856\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131856\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/DSCF4743-e1546451283646.jpg\" alt=\"Emily Luchetti with slices of chocolate roulade with chocolate chip ice cream.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Emily Luchetti with slices of chocolate roulade with chocolate chip ice cream. \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Elevate an old-fashioned jelly roll with chocolate...and more chocolate!","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1547228621,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":1255},"headData":{"title":"Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Emily Luchetti's Chocolate Roulade with Chocolate Chip Ice Cream | KQED","description":"Elevate an old-fashioned jelly roll with chocolate...and more chocolate!","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Emily Luchetti's Chocolate Roulade with Chocolate Chip Ice Cream","datePublished":"2019-01-02T17:53:21.000Z","dateModified":"2019-01-11T17:43:41.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"131848 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=131848","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/01/02/celebrity-chefs-recipes-emily-luchettis-chocolate-roulade-with-chocolate-chip-ice-cream/","disqusTitle":"Celebrity Chefs Recipes: Emily Luchetti's Chocolate Roulade with Chocolate Chip Ice Cream","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/wNVi6wwpsdo","path":"/bayareabites/131848/celebrity-chefs-recipes-emily-luchettis-chocolate-roulade-with-chocolate-chip-ice-cream","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>Photos: \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/vicchin/\">Vic Chin\u003c/a>, Video: Vic Chin and Peter Ruocco\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jelly rolls are classic desserts that look nice but frankly taste boring. But if you make a chocolate cake and substitute ice cream for the jam, you have a must-eat dessert. Call it by its French name “roulade”, serve with caramel sauce, and your friends and family will be over-the-top impressed. The cake has the texture of the cookie on ice cream sandwiches that we all enjoyed as kids...and still do as adults.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to use this chocolate cake recipe with any of your favorite ice cream flavors. Serving it with caramel sauce makes the ultimate flavor-trifecta of vanilla, chocolate and caramel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make spreading the ice cream on the cake easier, put it, straight from the freezer, into the bowl of an electric mixer and mix on low speed with the paddle attachment. You can also let it sit out at room temperature for a few minutes before putting it into a bowl and mixing it with a wooden spoon to make it spreadable but still frozen. I don’t recommend the microwave as it can become a melted mess before you know it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This dessert can be made a day or two, or even a week, in advance. Wrap well in plastic wrap and keep frozen until ready to serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Chocolate Roulade with Chocolate Chip Ice Cream\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Serves 8 to 10\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131854\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/DSCF4732-e1546450813307.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate roulade filled with chocolate chip ice cream and topped with the best caramel sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate roulade filled with chocolate chip ice cream and topped with the best caramel sauce. \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ½ tablespoons water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 large eggs, at room temperature, separated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅔ cup granulated sugar, divided\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅛ teaspoon kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 pints chocolate chip ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Confectioners sugar, to serve\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Best Ever Caramel Sauce, to serve (recipe follows)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>To make the cake:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray an 11-inch-by-17-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray and line the bottom with parchment paper.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Melt the chocolate and water together in a double boiler over hot water. Stir until smooth. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a wire whisk, whip the egg yolks on high speed until light in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium and slowly add 1/3 cup of the sugar. Increase the speed to high, and continue to whip until thick and ribbony.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On low speed, stir in the melted chocolate, 1/4 cup of the cocoa powder, and the salt. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using a clean bowl and clean wire whisk, whip the egg whites on medium speed until foamy and beginning to increase in volume. Gradually add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar in a steady stream. Continue to whip on high speed until satiny, stiff peaks form. Place one-third of the egg whites on top of the chocolate mixture, and using a large rubber spatula, carefully fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture. Repeat with the remaining egg whites and fold just until there are no white streaks remaining.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently and evenly spread the mixture in the prepared pan taking care to get the batter all the way into the corners.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake until the top of the cake springs back when pressed with your fingertip and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 15-20 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the cake is baking, lay a clean thin cotton dish towel on the work surface with the short end toward you. Dust an area of the towel the size of the baking pan with the remaining 2 tablespoons cocoa powder. Remove the cake from the oven and immediately cut around the inside edges of the pan with a small, sharp knife to release the cake. Place one of the long ends of the cake pan on the right side of the towel and invert the pan and the cake on top of the towel so it falls at the end of the towel closest to you and on top of the cocoa dusted area.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Carefully remove the pan and then gently, starting with a corner, peel off the parchment paper. If the cake is not sitting at the end of the towel, fold the towel under itself. From the end closest to you, carefully roll the cake and the towel up together like a jelly roll. Let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>To assemble the roulade:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, soften the ice cream while the cake is cooling. It should be firm but spreadable. Carefully unroll the cake. If it splits anywhere, gently push the broken pieces together.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Gently spread the ice cream over the cake with a large, thin metal spatula, leaving a 1/4-inch border on all sides. Reroll the cake without the towel. Place on a large platter or baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Freeze until firm, about 3 hours, depending on your freezer.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When ready to serve, dust the top of the roulade lightly with confectioners sugar, cut into slices, and serve with a drizzle or puddle of the caramel sauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Caramel sauce makes any dessert better. The trick in making caramel sauce is cooking it to the right color. It’s not hard, you just have to pay attention. You want a rich mahogany color. If it comes out more tan colored and a little thin, the next time cook it a little more. If it has a bit of a burnt taste, next time cook a little less. Using a pot with a light colored interior, like a stainless steel saucepan, will make it easier to see the color of the sugar. Making caramel does take a little practice, the second and third time you make it will be better than the first. It’s like riding a bike. Practice a few times and then you won’t forget.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since caramel sauce goes with everything, it’s a good recipe to have in your pastry repertoire. The sauce is easily reheated in a microwave or on the stove top. Caramel sauce lasts for months in the refrigerator if kept in a covered jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Best Ever Caramel Sauce\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes 1 ¾ cups\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131853\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"Best ever caramel sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/caramel-sauce-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best ever caramel sauce \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 ½ cups granulated sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy (whipping) cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a medium saucepan, using a heat-resistant spatula, stir together the sugar and the water. Heat over medium-high heat until the sugar is dissolved, 3-5 minutes. Do not stir once the mixture is clear.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Brush the insides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water to eliminate any sugar sticking to the sides. Increase the heat to high and cook, without stirring, until the sugar is a rich amber color, 8-10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the pan from the heat. Wearing oven mitts, slowly add one-quarter of the cream to the hot sugar mixture. Be careful as the caramel will sputter as the cream is added. Using a wooden spoon or heat resistant spatula, gently stir the cream into the caramel. If the cream sputters, stop stirring. Let the bubbles subside before stirring again. Carefully add the remaining cream. Stir until combined.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Let cool slightly before using.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131856\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131856\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/12/DSCF4743-e1546451283646.jpg\" alt=\"Emily Luchetti with slices of chocolate roulade with chocolate chip ice cream.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Emily Luchetti with slices of chocolate roulade with chocolate chip ice cream. \u003ccite>(Vic Chin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/131848/celebrity-chefs-recipes-emily-luchettis-chocolate-roulade-with-chocolate-chip-ice-cream","authors":["11572"],"series":["bayareabites_16039"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_1595","bayareabites_147","bayareabites_49","bayareabites_312","bayareabites_14738"],"featImg":"bayareabites_131856","label":"bayareabites_16039"},"bayareabites_128873":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_128873","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"128873","score":null,"sort":[1528731502000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"table-talk-its-time-for-rose-and-tacos-and-cake-and-amatriciana-pizza","title":"Table Talk: It’s Time for Rosé and Tacos and Cake and Amatriciana Pizza","publishDate":1528731502,"format":"standard","headTitle":"KQED’s Table Talk | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16115,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>This week’s highlights should feel a bit summery with news about the Tacolicious guest chef taco lineup and a rosé tasting, plus there’s the Refugee Food Festival, an all-cake dessert menu at Bluestem Brasserie, and where to find amatriciana pizza in SF.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128882\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sujan Sarkar of ROOH served a pulled jackfruit masala taco, with pineapple kut, smoked avocado, bikaneri boondi, and baby radish for his Tacolicious guest chef taco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128882\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sujan Sarkar of ROOH served a pulled jackfruit masala taco, with pineapple kut, smoked avocado, bikaneri boondi, and baby radish for his Tacolicious guest chef taco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tacolicious)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Tacolicious Guest Chef Taco Series Returns\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/934MaFs9bko\">Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market, San Francisco\u003c/a> (stand outside)\u003cbr>\nJune 14–August 9, Thursdays 10am–2pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Summertime means the \u003cstrong>Tacolicious summer guest chef taco series\u003c/strong> returns to their Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market stand. Every Thursday, one of San Francisco’s top chefs slings their take on a taco. Coming up on June 14 is Daniel Sudar of \u003ca href=\"https://chinalivesf.com/\">China Live\u003c/a> (Betelnut’s minced chicken taco), June 21 is Monica Martinez of \u003ca href=\"https://www.donbugito.com/\">Don Bugito\u003c/a> (edible insects!), June 28 is Adam Tortosa of \u003ca href=\"http://robinsanfrancisco.com/\">Robin\u003c/a> (miso-roasted sweet potato with Japanese chimichurri), July 7 is Freedom Rains of \u003ca href=\"http://amanosf.com/\">a Mano\u003c/a> (Italy meets Mexico!), and July 12 is Chris Cosentino of \u003ca href=\"http://cockscombsf.com/\">Cockscomb\u003c/a> (could be offal, ha-ha). Check their \u003ca href=\"https://www.tacolicious.com/\">site\u003c/a> and social media channels for more chef updates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All proceeds of each chef’s taco benefits \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a> (the Center for Urban Education and Sustainable Agriculture). All Tacolicious locations, including their farmers’ market stand, will be giving away Guest Chef Series “punch cards” for visitors to bring back each week. The market-goers with the most punches will be entered to win a prize of two tickets to a CUESA Cocktail Series event, a local farm tour for two, a CUESA tote bag filled with market goodies, $25 in market coins, and a Tacolicious cookbook. Good luck!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new.jpg\" alt=\"Don’t miss the Refugee Food Festival in San Francisco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t miss the Refugee Food Festival in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Refugee Food Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Refugee Food Festival Comes to San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/620987854904577/permalink/624410277895668/\">Refugee Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nJune 19–23\u003cbr>\nVarious restaurants, San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June 20th is \u003ca href=\"http://www.un.org/en/events/refugeeday/\">World Refugee Day\u003c/a> and the third \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/620987854904577/permalink/624410277895668/\">Refugee Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> is coming to 14 cities around the world in June—and how fortuitous, the festival in SF (the first stateside location) corresponds with the date! The organization is pairing local chefs and refugee chefs together for five days of pop-up dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, the following chefs will participate, cooking alongside refugee chefs:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Tuesday, June 19: \u003ca href=\"https://hogislandoysters.com/locations/san-francisco\">Hog Island\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, featuring Pa Wah, a Burmese chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Wednesday, June 20: \u003ca href=\"http://www.tawlasf.com\">Tawla\u003c/a> in the Mission District, featuring Muna, an Iraqi chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Thursday June 21: \u003ca href=\"https://www.dosasf.com/dosa-fillmore\">DOSA on Fillmore\u003c/a>, featuring Anu, a Bhutanese chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Friday, June 22: \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonsaddition.com\">Son’s Addition\u003c/a> in the Mission District, featuring Muna, an Iraqi chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Saturday, June 23: \u003ca href=\"http://jardiniere.com\">Jardinière\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, featuring Vito, a Senegalese chef\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>This is not a ticketed event, and reservations can be made via each restaurant's reservation system. A portion of profits from each dinner will be donated to a local organization in the Bay Area promoting integrating refugees into communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First launched in Paris in 2016, this year’s festival will include more than 100 restaurants in cities like New York, Amsterdam, and Athens that will open their kitchens to refugee chefs from countries including Afghanistan, Iraq, and Syria. Participating restaurants range from casual kitchens to Michelin-star restaurants and many refugee chefs who joined the festival have launched careers in the food industry as a result. The Refugee Food Festival partnered with the \u003ca href=\"http://ggra.org/\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association\u003c/a> on the SF festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio.jpeg\" alt=\"The dreamy patio behind Arlequin.\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio.jpeg 1800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-1200x800.jpeg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-1180x787.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-960x640.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-240x160.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-375x250.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-520x347.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1800px) 100vw, 1800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dreamy patio behind Arlequin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of The Absinthe Group)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>A Rosé Tasting on the Patio at Arlequin Wine Merchant\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://arlequinwinemerchant.com/\">Arlequin Wine Merchant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/LnGrSvmCn942\">372 Hayes St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, June 23\u003cbr>\n3pm–6pm\u003cbr>\n$12 tasting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rosé season is in full swing, and \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://arlequinwinemerchant.com/\">Arlequin Wine Merchant\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in Hayes Valley has the perfect patio to celebrate on. Which is why you won’t want to miss their \u003cstrong>Rosé Rundown Tasting Event\u003c/strong> on Saturday, June 23. They’re hosting a tasting of 12 still and sparkling rosé wines from the U.S., France, Spain, and Germany. Tickets are just $12 (for 12 tastings), and during the event, you will receive 10% off all bottles of wine sampled at Arlequin Wine Merchant. You’ll be set for the summer!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128878\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new.jpg\" alt=\"Enjoy the Strawberry Tall Cake at Bluestem Brasserie.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128878\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enjoy the Strawberry Tall Cake at Bluestem Brasserie. \u003ccite>(Madison Ginnett)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>All-Cake Dessert Menu at Bluestem Brasserie\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Bluestem Brasserie\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/Hgt35gU8mdt\">1 Yerba Buena Lane, San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, June 23 through Labor Day\u003cbr>\nOpen daily from 11am–10pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let them eat cake! Would a dessert menu full of just cake make you happy? Yeah, me too. Then you’ll want to swing by \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluestembrasserie.com/\">Bluestem Brasserie\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> from June 23 through Labor Day (see, you can go by multiple times) as they celebrate their seventh birthday with nothing but cake on the dessert menu. Consulting pastry chef Lori Baker is one heck of a cake-maker, and will include flavors like Honolulu Hangover (chocolate cake, coconut rum filling, toasted coconut meringue) and Strawberry Tall Cake (yellow cake, strawberry cheesecake, strawberry buttercream), plus Banana Ice Cream Cake with peanut butter caramel and peanut brittle (seven in all). $1 from each cake slice sold over the summer will go to CUESA’s Foodwise Kids. Look for more fundraising events coming this summer in their \u003cem>Baking the World a Better Place \u003c/em>campaign.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new.jpg\" alt=\"It’s time for amatriciana pizza. The saucy version at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128879\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s time for amatriciana pizza. The saucy version at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Amatriciana Pizza, the Ultimate Italian Mash-Up\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Amatriciana, that much-adored Roman pasta dish of guanciale (cured pork jowl, AKA pure umami), tomato sauce, onion (sometimes, this can be \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2016/02/origins-history-of-roman-pasta-gricia-amatriciana-carbonara.html\">debated\u003c/a> heavily), and pecorino, with a kick of peperoncino (red chile), is one of the most perfect pasta dishes, especially when it’s served with the traditional choice of bucatini. You can find some good renditions here in SF, but did you know you can also find an \u003cstrong>amatriciana pizza\u003c/strong>? For this amatriciana \u003cem>and\u003c/em> pizza fanatic, it’s a special kind of mash-up heaven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, I’ve been enjoying the amatriciana pizza by Sharon Ardiana at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ragazzasf.com/\">Ragazza\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (311 Divisadero St.), made with tomato, Olli pancetta, Calabrian chilies, pecorino, oregano, and an organic egg ($18). While some folks could cry foul over the pancetta instead of guanciale, just remember, we’re talking about a pizza here. The egg also takes things in another direction, but it’s to the utterly delicious zone, so that’s great. You can also find the amatriciana pie at her pizzeria \u003ca href=\"https://www.gialina.com/\">Gialina\u003c/a> (2842 Diamond St.) in Glen Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to play the “authentic” amatriciana pizza game, which is kind of ridiculous, but okay, the version at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (multiple locations) is true to the original pasta dish, made with guanciale, chile, tomato, pecorino, and black pepper (which, actually, some people would argue about!). It’s $19, and the deep saucy flavor is like enjoying a bowl of the pasta, but on their tasty crust. Magic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to the Roman owner of \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montesacrosf.com/\">Montesacro Pinseria\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (510 Stevenson St.) in SoMa, Gianluca Legrottaglie, to offer an amatriciana version on their ancient Roman-style pinsa. Certo! Look for the Quadraro, with tomato, guanciale, red onion, hot chile, and of course, pecorino ($19).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another location serving an amatriciana pizza is \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://tonyspizzanapoletana.com\">Tony’s Pizza Napoletana\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (1570 Stockton St.) in North Beach. Tony Gemignani’s version comes on his California-style crust, and it’s a really saucy pie, almost close to a plate of pasta. His version ($23) comes with sliced Aiello mozzarella, amatriciana tomato sauce with guanciale, onion, olive oil, and grated romano. I recommend a drizzle of his spicy oil on the table to kick things up.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Get excited for guest chef tacos, a rosé tasting, an all-cake dessert menu, amatriciana pizza, and more.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1528900992,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1346},"headData":{"title":"Table Talk: It’s Time for Rosé and Tacos and Cake and Amatriciana Pizza | KQED","description":"Get excited for guest chef tacos, a rosé tasting, an all-cake dessert menu, amatriciana pizza, and more.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Table Talk: It’s Time for Rosé and Tacos and Cake and Amatriciana Pizza","datePublished":"2018-06-11T15:38:22.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-13T14:43:12.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"128873 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=128873","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/06/11/table-talk-its-time-for-rose-and-tacos-and-cake-and-amatriciana-pizza/","disqusTitle":"Table Talk: It’s Time for Rosé and Tacos and Cake and Amatriciana Pizza","path":"/bayareabites/128873/table-talk-its-time-for-rose-and-tacos-and-cake-and-amatriciana-pizza","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This week’s highlights should feel a bit summery with news about the Tacolicious guest chef taco lineup and a rosé tasting, plus there’s the Refugee Food Festival, an all-cake dessert menu at Bluestem Brasserie, and where to find amatriciana pizza in SF.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128882\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sujan Sarkar of ROOH served a pulled jackfruit masala taco, with pineapple kut, smoked avocado, bikaneri boondi, and baby radish for his Tacolicious guest chef taco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128882\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/tacolicious-rooh-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sujan Sarkar of ROOH served a pulled jackfruit masala taco, with pineapple kut, smoked avocado, bikaneri boondi, and baby radish for his Tacolicious guest chef taco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tacolicious)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Tacolicious Guest Chef Taco Series Returns\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/934MaFs9bko\">Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market, San Francisco\u003c/a> (stand outside)\u003cbr>\nJune 14–August 9, Thursdays 10am–2pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Summertime means the \u003cstrong>Tacolicious summer guest chef taco series\u003c/strong> returns to their Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market stand. Every Thursday, one of San Francisco’s top chefs slings their take on a taco. Coming up on June 14 is Daniel Sudar of \u003ca href=\"https://chinalivesf.com/\">China Live\u003c/a> (Betelnut’s minced chicken taco), June 21 is Monica Martinez of \u003ca href=\"https://www.donbugito.com/\">Don Bugito\u003c/a> (edible insects!), June 28 is Adam Tortosa of \u003ca href=\"http://robinsanfrancisco.com/\">Robin\u003c/a> (miso-roasted sweet potato with Japanese chimichurri), July 7 is Freedom Rains of \u003ca href=\"http://amanosf.com/\">a Mano\u003c/a> (Italy meets Mexico!), and July 12 is Chris Cosentino of \u003ca href=\"http://cockscombsf.com/\">Cockscomb\u003c/a> (could be offal, ha-ha). Check their \u003ca href=\"https://www.tacolicious.com/\">site\u003c/a> and social media channels for more chef updates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All proceeds of each chef’s taco benefits \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a> (the Center for Urban Education and Sustainable Agriculture). All Tacolicious locations, including their farmers’ market stand, will be giving away Guest Chef Series “punch cards” for visitors to bring back each week. The market-goers with the most punches will be entered to win a prize of two tickets to a CUESA Cocktail Series event, a local farm tour for two, a CUESA tote bag filled with market goodies, $25 in market coins, and a Tacolicious cookbook. Good luck!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new.jpg\" alt=\"Don’t miss the Refugee Food Festival in San Francisco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-1200x675.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/refugeefestival-new-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t miss the Refugee Food Festival in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Refugee Food Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Refugee Food Festival Comes to San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/620987854904577/permalink/624410277895668/\">Refugee Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nJune 19–23\u003cbr>\nVarious restaurants, San Francisco\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>June 20th is \u003ca href=\"http://www.un.org/en/events/refugeeday/\">World Refugee Day\u003c/a> and the third \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/events/620987854904577/permalink/624410277895668/\">Refugee Food Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> is coming to 14 cities around the world in June—and how fortuitous, the festival in SF (the first stateside location) corresponds with the date! The organization is pairing local chefs and refugee chefs together for five days of pop-up dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, the following chefs will participate, cooking alongside refugee chefs:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Tuesday, June 19: \u003ca href=\"https://hogislandoysters.com/locations/san-francisco\">Hog Island\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, featuring Pa Wah, a Burmese chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Wednesday, June 20: \u003ca href=\"http://www.tawlasf.com\">Tawla\u003c/a> in the Mission District, featuring Muna, an Iraqi chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Thursday June 21: \u003ca href=\"https://www.dosasf.com/dosa-fillmore\">DOSA on Fillmore\u003c/a>, featuring Anu, a Bhutanese chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Friday, June 22: \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonsaddition.com\">Son’s Addition\u003c/a> in the Mission District, featuring Muna, an Iraqi chef\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Saturday, June 23: \u003ca href=\"http://jardiniere.com\">Jardinière\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, featuring Vito, a Senegalese chef\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>This is not a ticketed event, and reservations can be made via each restaurant's reservation system. A portion of profits from each dinner will be donated to a local organization in the Bay Area promoting integrating refugees into communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First launched in Paris in 2016, this year’s festival will include more than 100 restaurants in cities like New York, Amsterdam, and Athens that will open their kitchens to refugee chefs from countries including Afghanistan, Iraq, and Syria. Participating restaurants range from casual kitchens to Michelin-star restaurants and many refugee chefs who joined the festival have launched careers in the food industry as a result. The Refugee Food Festival partnered with the \u003ca href=\"http://ggra.org/\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association\u003c/a> on the SF festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio.jpeg\" alt=\"The dreamy patio behind Arlequin.\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio.jpeg 1800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-1200x800.jpeg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-1180x787.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-960x640.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-240x160.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-375x250.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/arlequin-patio-520x347.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1800px) 100vw, 1800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dreamy patio behind Arlequin. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of The Absinthe Group)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>A Rosé Tasting on the Patio at Arlequin Wine Merchant\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://arlequinwinemerchant.com/\">Arlequin Wine Merchant\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/LnGrSvmCn942\">372 Hayes St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, June 23\u003cbr>\n3pm–6pm\u003cbr>\n$12 tasting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rosé season is in full swing, and \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://arlequinwinemerchant.com/\">Arlequin Wine Merchant\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> in Hayes Valley has the perfect patio to celebrate on. Which is why you won’t want to miss their \u003cstrong>Rosé Rundown Tasting Event\u003c/strong> on Saturday, June 23. They’re hosting a tasting of 12 still and sparkling rosé wines from the U.S., France, Spain, and Germany. Tickets are just $12 (for 12 tastings), and during the event, you will receive 10% off all bottles of wine sampled at Arlequin Wine Merchant. You’ll be set for the summer!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128878\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new.jpg\" alt=\"Enjoy the Strawberry Tall Cake at Bluestem Brasserie.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128878\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bluestem-StrawberryTall-Cake-Madison-Ginnett-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enjoy the Strawberry Tall Cake at Bluestem Brasserie. \u003ccite>(Madison Ginnett)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>All-Cake Dessert Menu at Bluestem Brasserie\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Bluestem Brasserie\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/Hgt35gU8mdt\">1 Yerba Buena Lane, San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, June 23 through Labor Day\u003cbr>\nOpen daily from 11am–10pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let them eat cake! Would a dessert menu full of just cake make you happy? Yeah, me too. Then you’ll want to swing by \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluestembrasserie.com/\">Bluestem Brasserie\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> from June 23 through Labor Day (see, you can go by multiple times) as they celebrate their seventh birthday with nothing but cake on the dessert menu. Consulting pastry chef Lori Baker is one heck of a cake-maker, and will include flavors like Honolulu Hangover (chocolate cake, coconut rum filling, toasted coconut meringue) and Strawberry Tall Cake (yellow cake, strawberry cheesecake, strawberry buttercream), plus Banana Ice Cream Cake with peanut butter caramel and peanut brittle (seven in all). $1 from each cake slice sold over the summer will go to CUESA’s Foodwise Kids. Look for more fundraising events coming this summer in their \u003cem>Baking the World a Better Place \u003c/em>campaign.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new.jpg\" alt=\"It’s time for amatriciana pizza. The saucy version at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128879\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/amatriciana-tonyspizza-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s time for amatriciana pizza. The saucy version at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Amatriciana Pizza, the Ultimate Italian Mash-Up\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Amatriciana, that much-adored Roman pasta dish of guanciale (cured pork jowl, AKA pure umami), tomato sauce, onion (sometimes, this can be \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2016/02/origins-history-of-roman-pasta-gricia-amatriciana-carbonara.html\">debated\u003c/a> heavily), and pecorino, with a kick of peperoncino (red chile), is one of the most perfect pasta dishes, especially when it’s served with the traditional choice of bucatini. You can find some good renditions here in SF, but did you know you can also find an \u003cstrong>amatriciana pizza\u003c/strong>? For this amatriciana \u003cem>and\u003c/em> pizza fanatic, it’s a special kind of mash-up heaven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, I’ve been enjoying the amatriciana pizza by Sharon Ardiana at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://ragazzasf.com/\">Ragazza\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (311 Divisadero St.), made with tomato, Olli pancetta, Calabrian chilies, pecorino, oregano, and an organic egg ($18). While some folks could cry foul over the pancetta instead of guanciale, just remember, we’re talking about a pizza here. The egg also takes things in another direction, but it’s to the utterly delicious zone, so that’s great. You can also find the amatriciana pie at her pizzeria \u003ca href=\"https://www.gialina.com/\">Gialina\u003c/a> (2842 Diamond St.) in Glen Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to play the “authentic” amatriciana pizza game, which is kind of ridiculous, but okay, the version at \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (multiple locations) is true to the original pasta dish, made with guanciale, chile, tomato, pecorino, and black pepper (which, actually, some people would argue about!). It’s $19, and the deep saucy flavor is like enjoying a bowl of the pasta, but on their tasty crust. Magic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to the Roman owner of \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montesacrosf.com/\">Montesacro Pinseria\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (510 Stevenson St.) in SoMa, Gianluca Legrottaglie, to offer an amatriciana version on their ancient Roman-style pinsa. Certo! Look for the Quadraro, with tomato, guanciale, red onion, hot chile, and of course, pecorino ($19).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another location serving an amatriciana pizza is \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://tonyspizzanapoletana.com\">Tony’s Pizza Napoletana\u003c/a>\u003c/strong> (1570 Stockton St.) in North Beach. Tony Gemignani’s version comes on his California-style crust, and it’s a really saucy pie, almost close to a plate of pasta. His version ($23) comes with sliced Aiello mozzarella, amatriciana tomato sauce with guanciale, onion, olive oil, and grated romano. I recommend a drizzle of his spicy oil on the table to kick things up.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/128873/table-talk-its-time-for-rose-and-tacos-and-cake-and-amatriciana-pizza","authors":["11398"],"series":["bayareabites_16115"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_16182","bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_443","bayareabites_12834","bayareabites_9966","bayareabites_767"],"featImg":"bayareabites_128881","label":"bayareabites_16115"},"bayareabites_116335":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_116335","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"116335","score":null,"sort":[1490645470000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"duncan-hines-the-original-road-warrior-who-shaped-restaurant-history","title":"Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History","publishDate":1490645470,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Duncan Hines, traveling salesman and future purveyor of boxed cake mix, considered himself an authority on a great many things: hot coffee, Kentucky country-cured ham and how to locate a tasty restaurant meal, in 1935, for under a dollar and a quarter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1950s, Hines' name would be plastered on boxes of cake mix; housewives would turn to his products for consistent quality and superior taste. Newspaper photographs featured Hines clad in a white chef's apron, hoisting a neatly frosted cake or thoughtfully dipping a spoon into a mixing bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116337\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg\" alt=\"Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road.\" width=\"640\" height=\"892\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116337\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-160x223.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-800x1115.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-768x1070.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1180x1645.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-960x1338.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-240x334.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-375x523.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-520x725.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67.jpg 1435w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But Duncan Hines wasn't a chef — in truth, he could barely cook. For most of his career, he had just been a businessman, desperate for a decent meal on the road. Through his search for the best restaurants across America, he became an accidental gourmand, an unlikely author and homegrown connoisseur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although boxed cake mix is the legacy that most people now associate with Duncan Hines (only after asking, \"Was he actually a real person?\") the supermarket foods that bear his name are only an epilogue to a storied life traveling America's back roads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was really his book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Adventures-Good-Eating-Highways-America/dp/B0013H5RUC/ref=sr_1_15?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1489697718&sr=1-15\">Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, that first put Duncan Hines on the map. And it was his tireless pursuit of good food that inspired his book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A decent meal\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines' appreciation for a good meal arose out of mere necessity. From the 1920s through the '40s, he motored across the country hawking letter openers and paperclips and subsisting on unreliable road food. It was an era long before any formal restaurant rating system existed in the U.S. The names and locations of good restaurants were conveyed by word of mouth; for an out-of-town traveler, locating a decent supper was often a daunting and discouraging mission. And although Europe had relied on \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/history-of-the-michelin-guide-2014-10\">The Michelin Guide\u003c/a>\u003c/em> since 1900, middle America in the 1920s and '30s was still a land of culinary mystery and inconsistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116338\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg\" alt='1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\"' width=\"640\" height=\"855\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-160x214.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-800x1068.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-768x1025.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1180x1575.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-960x1282.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-375x501.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-520x694.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4.jpg 1462w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\" \u003ccite>(Nicole Jankowski for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was also a time of growing wanderlust. Highways such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.theroute-66.com/history.html\">Route 66\u003c/a> were connecting small towns, and eager motorists often embarked on weekend road trips. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.umich.edu/~drivein/restaurant.html\">University of Michigan\u003c/a>, in the '20s \"the number of automobiles in America rose from eight million to twenty-three million and along with the increase came thousands of barbeque shacks, ice cream stands and diners.\" Many new restaurants were not listed on maps. And they were often hidden on dusty back roads that health inspectors didn't travel. (Even if they did, there was no standard for restaurant food safety in America at that time.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desperate for a clean place to dine, Hines became an investigative epicurean and self-made restaurant critic. He carried a tiny journal in his coat pocket, jotting down the precise locations of his favorite places. No restaurant was off limits for the inquisitive Hines. \"The kitchen is the first spot I inspect in an eating place,\" he wrote. \"More people will die from hit or miss eating than from hit and run driving,\" he joked — though Hines clearly thought food safety was no laughing matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He frequently popped into the kitchen to scrutinize how staff handled food and then swung around back to investigate the restaurant's garbage pile. He meticulously recorded the names of the most pristine diners, the inns with the tastiest prime roast beef, and where to find the stickiest honey buns. He appreciated regional cuisine, quickly discovering in which part of the country to brake for broiled lobster tail (New England) and where to stop for fried chicken (Kentucky).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines noted whether a restaurant had air conditioning, its hours of operation and its prices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. \"His restaurant notes were extraordinarily accurate,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.louishatchett.com/\">Louis Hatchett\u003c/a>, author of the book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Duncan-Hines-Traveling-Salesman-Trusted-ebook/dp/B00K6RV2RW/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1461969049&sr=1-2&linkCode=li3&tag=louishatchett-20&linkId=4f13ce70b762b7edff2e6f3db547bb9c\">Duncan Hines: How a Traveling Salesman Became the Most Trusted Name in Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \"As word spread among his family and friends, people were begging him to share the list he had created. There was nothing out there like it,\" he says. \"In 1935, sick of being pestered, he finally sent out a little blue pamphlet in his Christmas cards, containing a list of 167 restaurants across 33 states that he could safely recommend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, Hines was receiving postcards from from salesmen, newlyweds and other travelers all over America seeking his recommendations for good, clean restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1936, at 55, Hines self-published his first edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating \u003c/em>and sold them for $1 each. It contained the names and locations of 475 restaurants from coast to coast that had Hines' rigorous seal of approval. \"The books were sold through word of mouth, but they quickly sold out. The following year he raised the guide's price to $1.50 — and that's where the price would stay for the next 25 years,\" explains Hatchett.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year, until he retired in 1954, Hines broadened his exploration of America's restaurants and published an updated edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/em>. Restaurants fell in and out of Hines' favor — if they could not deliver a quality meal or allow a peek into the kitchen, they were removed from the book. He refused to accept any advertisements or endorsements from restaurants in exchange for reviews. Millions of discerning travelers kept his book in their glove compartments to guide them as they rumbled down gravelly country roads in unfamiliar locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg\" alt=\"A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1071\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-160x86.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-800x428.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-768x411.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1020x546.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1180x632.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-960x514.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-240x129.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-375x201.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-520x278.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Clinton Lewis/Kentucky Museum/Western Kentucky University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Recommended by Duncan Hines\" became the gold standard in dining by the 1950s. Restaurants endorsed by Hines tacked up metal signs in their front windows. As his authority grew, Hines published \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/stream/lodgingfornight00hinerich/lodgingfornight00hinerich_djvu.txt\">\u003cem>Lodging for a Night\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>(1938)\u003cem> \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/details/adventuresingood00hine\">\u003cem>Adventures\u003c/em>\u003cem> in Good Cooking (Famous Recipes) and the Art of Carving in the Home\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (1939). In 1952, when Hines was 72, he partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://parklibrary.mj.unc.edu/about/royhpark/\">Roy H. Park\u003c/a> to form Hines-Park in Ithaca, N.Y., allowing the \u003ca href=\"https://www.duncanhines.com/\">Duncan Hines name\u003c/a> to appear on everything from cartons of ice cream to the now-famous cake mixes. Two years before his death in March of 1959, the entire franchise was sold to Procter & Gamble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Renewed interest\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Ebay and rare book vendors, there is resurging interest in \u003cem>Adventures in Good Cooking\u003c/em>. History lovers and discriminating foodies congregate on the forums of \u003ca href=\"https://roadfood.com/\">Roadfood.com\u003c/a> to share modern forays into Hines' antiquated restaurant scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1572px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg\" alt='A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\"' width=\"1572\" height=\"2000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116340\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg 1572w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-160x204.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-800x1018.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-768x977.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1020x1298.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1180x1501.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-960x1221.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-240x305.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-375x477.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-520x662.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1572px) 100vw, 1572px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jim Pfefferle, a forum member and engineer from Wisconsin, views Duncan Hines' swift rise to fame as compelling as the material in his books. \"It's kind of meteoric, what Duncan Hines did,\" Pfefferle tells NPR. \"He was unknown when he published his first guidebook in 1936 and then there was a World War. By 1951 he was famous, the one person in the United States that anyone would go to for an authority on food. Less than 10 years later, he was gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pfefferle, along with other members of the forum, has spent the past two years painstakingly gathering a list of restaurants from Hines' books that are still in operation. He says it has been an intimidating task filled with many gastronomic dead-ends, but he believes that about 37 of the original 167 restaurants on Hines' 1935 list remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines often said, \"Nearly everyone wants at least one outstanding meal a day.\" This seems as true now as it did a half-century ago. But long before \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com\">Yelp\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.tripadvisor.com/\">TripAdvisor\u003c/a> offered restaurant reviews with the click of a button, Hines was doing it his own way, by traveling the highway with his pencil and notebook, changing the way America ate on the open road — one adventure at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nicole Jankowski is a freelance food, history and culture writer based in Detroit. You can find her on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/momof4istired/\">Facebook\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The name on that box of cake mix belonged to a real person. Hines was a traveling salesman who just wanted to find a decent meal on the road — and ended up being America's go-to restaurant expert.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1490645470,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1392},"headData":{"title":"Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History | KQED","description":"The name on that box of cake mix belonged to a real person. Hines was a traveling salesman who just wanted to find a decent meal on the road — and ended up being America's go-to restaurant expert.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History","datePublished":"2017-03-27T20:11:10.000Z","dateModified":"2017-03-27T20:11:10.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"116335 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=116335","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/03/27/duncan-hines-the-original-road-warrior-who-shaped-restaurant-history/","disqusTitle":"Duncan Hines: The Original Road Warrior Who Shaped Restaurant History","source":"Food History and Celebrities","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/food-history-and-celebrities/","nprByline":"Nicole Jankowski, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU","nprStoryId":"520866833","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=520866833&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/03/26/520866833/duncan-hines-the-original-road-warrior-who-shaped-restaurant-history?ft=nprml&f=520866833","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:00:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 26 Mar 2017 07:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 26 Mar 2017 09:34:43 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/116335/duncan-hines-the-original-road-warrior-who-shaped-restaurant-history","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Duncan Hines, traveling salesman and future purveyor of boxed cake mix, considered himself an authority on a great many things: hot coffee, Kentucky country-cured ham and how to locate a tasty restaurant meal, in 1935, for under a dollar and a quarter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the 1950s, Hines' name would be plastered on boxes of cake mix; housewives would turn to his products for consistent quality and superior taste. Newspaper photographs featured Hines clad in a white chef's apron, hoisting a neatly frosted cake or thoughtfully dipping a spoon into a mixing bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116337\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg\" alt=\"Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road.\" width=\"640\" height=\"892\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116337\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1020x1422.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-160x223.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-800x1115.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-768x1070.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-1180x1645.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-960x1338.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-240x334.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-375x523.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67-520x725.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhhat65_m_custom-c3cfa51a909bf427cf6aa0fc00cdd64c01232b67.jpg 1435w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Duncan Hines wasn't a chef, he was a businessman looking for a decent meal on the road. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But Duncan Hines wasn't a chef — in truth, he could barely cook. For most of his career, he had just been a businessman, desperate for a decent meal on the road. Through his search for the best restaurants across America, he became an accidental gourmand, an unlikely author and homegrown connoisseur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although boxed cake mix is the legacy that most people now associate with Duncan Hines (only after asking, \"Was he actually a real person?\") the supermarket foods that bear his name are only an epilogue to a storied life traveling America's back roads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was really his book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Adventures-Good-Eating-Highways-America/dp/B0013H5RUC/ref=sr_1_15?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1489697718&sr=1-15\">Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, that first put Duncan Hines on the map. And it was his tireless pursuit of good food that inspired his book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A decent meal\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines' appreciation for a good meal arose out of mere necessity. From the 1920s through the '40s, he motored across the country hawking letter openers and paperclips and subsisting on unreliable road food. It was an era long before any formal restaurant rating system existed in the U.S. The names and locations of good restaurants were conveyed by word of mouth; for an out-of-town traveler, locating a decent supper was often a daunting and discouraging mission. And although Europe had relied on \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.businessinsider.com/history-of-the-michelin-guide-2014-10\">The Michelin Guide\u003c/a>\u003c/em> since 1900, middle America in the 1920s and '30s was still a land of culinary mystery and inconsistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116338\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg\" alt='1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\"' width=\"640\" height=\"855\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1020x1362.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-160x214.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-800x1068.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-768x1025.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-1180x1575.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-960x1282.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-375x501.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4-520x694.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/fullsizerender-3-_vert-58e17d3f718db017e44db4721b202298eb93f3e4.jpg 1462w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1946 copy of \"Adventures in Good Eating.\" \u003ccite>(Nicole Jankowski for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It was also a time of growing wanderlust. Highways such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.theroute-66.com/history.html\">Route 66\u003c/a> were connecting small towns, and eager motorists often embarked on weekend road trips. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.umich.edu/~drivein/restaurant.html\">University of Michigan\u003c/a>, in the '20s \"the number of automobiles in America rose from eight million to twenty-three million and along with the increase came thousands of barbeque shacks, ice cream stands and diners.\" Many new restaurants were not listed on maps. And they were often hidden on dusty back roads that health inspectors didn't travel. (Even if they did, there was no standard for restaurant food safety in America at that time.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desperate for a clean place to dine, Hines became an investigative epicurean and self-made restaurant critic. He carried a tiny journal in his coat pocket, jotting down the precise locations of his favorite places. No restaurant was off limits for the inquisitive Hines. \"The kitchen is the first spot I inspect in an eating place,\" he wrote. \"More people will die from hit or miss eating than from hit and run driving,\" he joked — though Hines clearly thought food safety was no laughing matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He frequently popped into the kitchen to scrutinize how staff handled food and then swung around back to investigate the restaurant's garbage pile. He meticulously recorded the names of the most pristine diners, the inns with the tastiest prime roast beef, and where to find the stickiest honey buns. He appreciated regional cuisine, quickly discovering in which part of the country to brake for broiled lobster tail (New England) and where to stop for fried chicken (Kentucky).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines noted whether a restaurant had air conditioning, its hours of operation and its prices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. \"His restaurant notes were extraordinarily accurate,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.louishatchett.com/\">Louis Hatchett\u003c/a>, author of the book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Duncan-Hines-Traveling-Salesman-Trusted-ebook/dp/B00K6RV2RW/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1461969049&sr=1-2&linkCode=li3&tag=louishatchett-20&linkId=4f13ce70b762b7edff2e6f3db547bb9c\">Duncan Hines: How a Traveling Salesman Became the Most Trusted Name in Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \"As word spread among his family and friends, people were begging him to share the list he had created. There was nothing out there like it,\" he says. \"In 1935, sick of being pestered, he finally sent out a little blue pamphlet in his Christmas cards, containing a list of 167 restaurants across 33 states that he could safely recommend.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, Hines was receiving postcards from from salesmen, newlyweds and other travelers all over America seeking his recommendations for good, clean restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1936, at 55, Hines self-published his first edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating \u003c/em>and sold them for $1 each. It contained the names and locations of 475 restaurants from coast to coast that had Hines' rigorous seal of approval. \"The books were sold through word of mouth, but they quickly sold out. The following year he raised the guide's price to $1.50 — and that's where the price would stay for the next 25 years,\" explains Hatchett.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year, until he retired in 1954, Hines broadened his exploration of America's restaurants and published an updated edition of \u003cem>Adventures in Good Eating\u003c/em>. Restaurants fell in and out of Hines' favor — if they could not deliver a quality meal or allow a peek into the kitchen, they were removed from the book. He refused to accept any advertisements or endorsements from restaurants in exchange for reviews. Millions of discerning travelers kept his book in their glove compartments to guide them as they rumbled down gravelly country roads in unfamiliar locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg\" alt=\"A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1071\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-160x86.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-800x428.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-768x411.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1020x546.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-1180x632.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-960x514.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-240x129.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-375x201.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/2017.03.20_-kentucky-museum-_lewis-0007_custom-136a788861350cdb4c40acb85a38493a05bef947-520x278.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A roadside sign advertising Duncan Hines' Adventures in Good Eating is on display at the Kentucky Museum at Western Kentucky University. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Clinton Lewis/Kentucky Museum/Western Kentucky University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Recommended by Duncan Hines\" became the gold standard in dining by the 1950s. Restaurants endorsed by Hines tacked up metal signs in their front windows. As his authority grew, Hines published \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/stream/lodgingfornight00hinerich/lodgingfornight00hinerich_djvu.txt\">\u003cem>Lodging for a Night\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>(1938)\u003cem> \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://archive.org/details/adventuresingood00hine\">\u003cem>Adventures\u003c/em>\u003cem> in Good Cooking (Famous Recipes) and the Art of Carving in the Home\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (1939). In 1952, when Hines was 72, he partnered with \u003ca href=\"http://parklibrary.mj.unc.edu/about/royhpark/\">Roy H. Park\u003c/a> to form Hines-Park in Ithaca, N.Y., allowing the \u003ca href=\"https://www.duncanhines.com/\">Duncan Hines name\u003c/a> to appear on everything from cartons of ice cream to the now-famous cake mixes. Two years before his death in March of 1959, the entire franchise was sold to Procter & Gamble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Renewed interest\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Ebay and rare book vendors, there is resurging interest in \u003cem>Adventures in Good Cooking\u003c/em>. History lovers and discriminating foodies congregate on the forums of \u003ca href=\"https://roadfood.com/\">Roadfood.com\u003c/a> to share modern forays into Hines' antiquated restaurant scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1572px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg\" alt='A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\"' width=\"1572\" height=\"2000\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116340\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524.jpg 1572w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-160x204.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-800x1018.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-768x977.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1020x1298.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-1180x1501.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-960x1221.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-240x305.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-375x477.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/03/dhicecream_custom-63422629e17403e37441bfc4486005f7c6228524-520x662.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1572px) 100vw, 1572px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A 1950s ad for Duncan Hines ice cream quotes Hines as saying \"Many people tell me they first bought it because they regard my name as a guide to good eating.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Department of Special Collections-WKU)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jim Pfefferle, a forum member and engineer from Wisconsin, views Duncan Hines' swift rise to fame as compelling as the material in his books. \"It's kind of meteoric, what Duncan Hines did,\" Pfefferle tells NPR. \"He was unknown when he published his first guidebook in 1936 and then there was a World War. By 1951 he was famous, the one person in the United States that anyone would go to for an authority on food. Less than 10 years later, he was gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pfefferle, along with other members of the forum, has spent the past two years painstakingly gathering a list of restaurants from Hines' books that are still in operation. He says it has been an intimidating task filled with many gastronomic dead-ends, but he believes that about 37 of the original 167 restaurants on Hines' 1935 list remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hines often said, \"Nearly everyone wants at least one outstanding meal a day.\" This seems as true now as it did a half-century ago. But long before \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com\">Yelp\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.tripadvisor.com/\">TripAdvisor\u003c/a> offered restaurant reviews with the click of a button, Hines was doing it his own way, by traveling the highway with his pencil and notebook, changing the way America ate on the open road — one adventure at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nicole Jankowski is a freelance food, history and culture writer based in Detroit. You can find her on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/momof4istired/\">Facebook\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/116335/duncan-hines-the-original-road-warrior-who-shaped-restaurant-history","authors":["byline_bayareabites_116335"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090"],"tags":["bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_15799"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116336","label":"source_bayareabites_116335"},"bayareabites_60266":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_60266","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"60266","score":null,"sort":[1366744377000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"art-as-food-as-art-caitlin-freeman-and-her-modern-art-desserts","title":"Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her \"Modern Art Desserts\"","publishDate":1366744377,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\" alt=\"Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60359\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Andy Warhol as Jell-O, Jeff Koons as a gilded white hot chocolate, and Cindy Sherman as a pink ice cream float dusted with glitter are just a few of the edible art concepts cooked up by Caitlin Freeman, an artist who creates confections and fancy snacks based on special exhibitions at SFMOMA. Her new book, \"Modern Art Desserts,\" details recipes and stories from her self-made dream job: responding to art through food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Free_Modern-Art-Desserts600.jpg\" alt=\"Modern Art Desserts by Caitlin Freeman\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-60357\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman co-owned Miette pastry shops before opening the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/\">Blue Bottle Coffee\u003c/a> bar at SFMOMA’s rooftop garden with her husband \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/30/bay-area-coffee-roasters-food-wine-this-week/\">James\u003c/a>. From Miette, she brought along artist and pastry chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.leahrosenberg.com\">Leah Rosenberg\u003c/a>, and assistant Tess Wilson. The team’s desserts are innovative, creative and sometimes controversial. A cookie plate inspired by Richard Serra’s massive steel sculptures is likely the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/2013/04/setting-the-serra-story-straight/\">first dessert to have ever received a cease and desist letter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake\" alt=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60362\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float\" alt=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60361\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows\" alt=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60360\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman credits painter \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/spark/profile.jsp?essid=24225\">Wayne Thiebaud\u003c/a> with inspiring her to become a baker, and says the book is a love letter to him. Her favorite cakes to bake are buttercream party cakes, and that’s exactly what Thiebaud is known for painting. The two cake-loving artists haven’t met yet, but Freeman throws a birthday party for him every year at the cafe. Besides her most popular cakes modeled after works by Thiebaud and Piet Mondrian, 70 modern art desserts have been created over the past four years. Textile artist Ruth Laskey’s two-color weavings became conceptual sodas where flavors were assigned to each color, creating combinations like \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Laskey-Lemon-Soda-with-Bay-Ice-Cubes-51159600\">lemon soda with bay ice cubes\u003c/a>, and bubblegum soda (made from Dubble Bubble gum concentrate) with violet ice cubes. Freeman was interested in the overlap between colors and flavors, a concept that went through some trial and error when she focused on Andy Warhol’s self portrait in green, blue, red, and yellow. She tried to make a Bloody Mary gelée and explains, “I didn’t want to use food coloring but I figured we could use blue curacao. We made Campbell’s tomato soup Jell-O, celery, horseradish and Worcester Jell-O, and it was revolting. It shouldn’t be a surprise, but that was the one recipe that didn’t really work out.” Her aversion to food coloring had to be overcome for her Mondrian cake, a chocolate ganache grid with primary-colored cake blocks, but she’s not the only one who is wary of unnatural-looking cake dye. She says, “People easily gobble up the yellow and red, but often they’ll leave the blue square on the plate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60486\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's "Kerrville, Texas" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60486\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's \"Kerrville, Texas\" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Freeman’s latest concoction, inspired by a \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/visualarts/article.jsp?essid=117645\">Gary Winogrand\u003c/a> photograph, is an ambitious multimedia project. As she describes it, “The piece we chose is these two people dancing on a platform that looks just like an ice cream cake. So we’re making this ridiculous multimedia cake that involves Stevie Wonder’s “Sir Duke” playing from an MP3 player inside the plate, which happened to be the number seventeen song the year the photo was taken, and looks exactly like the song they would’ve been dancing to. We’ll have two images laser-cut as cake toppers that will be dancing on the cake.” The desserts are often conceptual, and sometimes literal, like the Jasper Johns-inspired grilled cheese that looks like his piece, \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_606w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2012/05/29/Style/Images/KENNCOTT002_1338319201.jpg\">Bread\u003c/a>. As Freeman describes the project, “The piece is a lead panel with a piece of bread on it, so we made a grilled cheese and served it on a to-scale board painted to look like lead. It was a giant, oversized board people would have to carry back to their table.” She likes that her creations can help make the art more accessible, and says that when she walks into a gallery of California painters, “especially Diebenkorn and Thiebaud,” she often wants to take the paintings home, and says: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Making desserts is my way of owning something, of really pretending that I’m stealing it, and making it my own.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[vimeo 63069294] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">Modern Art Desserts\u003c/a>\" was released this month by Ten Speed Press. Freeman’s Mondrian cakes will soon be available for purchase online (available for delivery, packed in dry ice). Keep up with her projects at \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernartdesserts.com/\">modernartdesserts.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos of desserts reprinted with permission from Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art, by Caitlin Freeman, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Photo credit: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cailtlin Freeman's new book details the drama and recipes behind her self-made dream job: responding to SFMOMA's art through food. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1366826565,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":807},"headData":{"title":"Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her \"Modern Art Desserts\" | KQED","description":"Cailtlin Freeman's new book details the drama and recipes behind her self-made dream job: responding to SFMOMA's art through food. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her \"Modern Art Desserts\"","datePublished":"2013-04-23T19:12:57.000Z","dateModified":"2013-04-24T18:02:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"60266 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=60266","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/23/art-as-food-as-art-caitlin-freeman-and-her-modern-art-desserts/","disqusTitle":"Art as Food as Art: Caitlin Freeman and her \"Modern Art Desserts\"","path":"/bayareabites/60266/art-as-food-as-art-caitlin-freeman-and-her-modern-art-desserts","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Freeman_Caitlin1000.jpg\" alt=\"Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\" width=\"1000\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60359\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caitlin Freeman. Photo: Charles Villyard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Andy Warhol as Jell-O, Jeff Koons as a gilded white hot chocolate, and Cindy Sherman as a pink ice cream float dusted with glitter are just a few of the edible art concepts cooked up by Caitlin Freeman, an artist who creates confections and fancy snacks based on special exhibitions at SFMOMA. Her new book, \"Modern Art Desserts,\" details recipes and stories from her self-made dream job: responding to art through food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Free_Modern-Art-Desserts600.jpg\" alt=\"Modern Art Desserts by Caitlin Freeman\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-60357\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman co-owned Miette pastry shops before opening the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/\">Blue Bottle Coffee\u003c/a> bar at SFMOMA’s rooftop garden with her husband \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/30/bay-area-coffee-roasters-food-wine-this-week/\">James\u003c/a>. From Miette, she brought along artist and pastry chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.leahrosenberg.com\">Leah Rosenberg\u003c/a>, and assistant Tess Wilson. The team’s desserts are innovative, creative and sometimes controversial. A cookie plate inspired by Richard Serra’s massive steel sculptures is likely the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.com/2013/04/setting-the-serra-story-straight/\">first dessert to have ever received a cease and desist letter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Thiebaud-Pink-Cake600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake\" alt=\"Thiebaud Pink Cake. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60362\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Sherman-Ice-Cream-Float600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float\" alt=\"Sherman Ice Cream Float. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60361\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Koons-White-Hot-Chocolate600-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows\" alt=\"Koons White Hot Chocolate with Lillet Marshmallows. Photo: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-60360\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freeman credits painter \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/spark/profile.jsp?essid=24225\">Wayne Thiebaud\u003c/a> with inspiring her to become a baker, and says the book is a love letter to him. Her favorite cakes to bake are buttercream party cakes, and that’s exactly what Thiebaud is known for painting. The two cake-loving artists haven’t met yet, but Freeman throws a birthday party for him every year at the cafe. Besides her most popular cakes modeled after works by Thiebaud and Piet Mondrian, 70 modern art desserts have been created over the past four years. Textile artist Ruth Laskey’s two-color weavings became conceptual sodas where flavors were assigned to each color, creating combinations like \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Laskey-Lemon-Soda-with-Bay-Ice-Cubes-51159600\">lemon soda with bay ice cubes\u003c/a>, and bubblegum soda (made from Dubble Bubble gum concentrate) with violet ice cubes. Freeman was interested in the overlap between colors and flavors, a concept that went through some trial and error when she focused on Andy Warhol’s self portrait in green, blue, red, and yellow. She tried to make a Bloody Mary gelée and explains, “I didn’t want to use food coloring but I figured we could use blue curacao. We made Campbell’s tomato soup Jell-O, celery, horseradish and Worcester Jell-O, and it was revolting. It shouldn’t be a surprise, but that was the one recipe that didn’t really work out.” Her aversion to food coloring had to be overcome for her Mondrian cake, a chocolate ganache grid with primary-colored cake blocks, but she’s not the only one who is wary of unnatural-looking cake dye. She says, “People easily gobble up the yellow and red, but often they’ll leave the blue square on the plate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_60486\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/winogrand-cake1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's "Kerrville, Texas" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-60486\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert is based on Garry Winogrand's \"Kerrville, Texas\" (1977). Photo: Willa Koerner.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Freeman’s latest concoction, inspired by a \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/visualarts/article.jsp?essid=117645\">Gary Winogrand\u003c/a> photograph, is an ambitious multimedia project. As she describes it, “The piece we chose is these two people dancing on a platform that looks just like an ice cream cake. So we’re making this ridiculous multimedia cake that involves Stevie Wonder’s “Sir Duke” playing from an MP3 player inside the plate, which happened to be the number seventeen song the year the photo was taken, and looks exactly like the song they would’ve been dancing to. We’ll have two images laser-cut as cake toppers that will be dancing on the cake.” The desserts are often conceptual, and sometimes literal, like the Jasper Johns-inspired grilled cheese that looks like his piece, \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_606w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2012/05/29/Style/Images/KENNCOTT002_1338319201.jpg\">Bread\u003c/a>. As Freeman describes the project, “The piece is a lead panel with a piece of bread on it, so we made a grilled cheese and served it on a to-scale board painted to look like lead. It was a giant, oversized board people would have to carry back to their table.” She likes that her creations can help make the art more accessible, and says that when she walks into a gallery of California painters, “especially Diebenkorn and Thiebaud,” she often wants to take the paintings home, and says: \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Making desserts is my way of owning something, of really pretending that I’m stealing it, and making it my own.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"vimeo","attributes":{"named":{"label":"63069294"},"numeric":["63069294"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Art-Desserts-Recipes-Confections/dp/1607743906\">Modern Art Desserts\u003c/a>\" was released this month by Ten Speed Press. Freeman’s Mondrian cakes will soon be available for purchase online (available for delivery, packed in dry ice). Keep up with her projects at \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernartdesserts.com/\">modernartdesserts.com\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos of desserts reprinted with permission from Modern Art Desserts: Recipes for Cakes, Cookies, Confections, and Frozen Treats Based on Iconic Works of Art, by Caitlin Freeman, copyright (c) 2013. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. Photo credit: Clay McLachlan (c) 2013\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/60266/art-as-food-as-art-caitlin-freeman-and-her-modern-art-desserts","authors":["5254"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_1248","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_1415","bayareabites_8472","bayareabites_3367","bayareabites_11583","bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_125","bayareabites_3592","bayareabites_3537","bayareabites_11584","bayareabites_782","bayareabites_11573","bayareabites_10063","bayareabites_11572"],"featImg":"bayareabites_60358","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_52121":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_52121","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"52121","score":null,"sort":[1356303004000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"apple-crumb-cake-a-naughty-version-of-the-nice","title":"Apple Crumb Cake: A Naughty Version of the Nice","publishDate":1356303004,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-62.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-62.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" title=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52126\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple Crumb Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first tasted this \u003cstrong>apple cake\u003c/strong> at a lovely brunch my friend, Leslie, hosted about a year ago. It was a simple, satisfying cake, full of juicy chunks of apples, warm spices, and a bit of crunch on the surface and around the edges. As I helped myself to a second serving, I grilled Leslie for the details and she promised it was silly easy -- a one bowl affair that didn’t even require a mixer. Sold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leslie’s apple cake is awesome as is. I made minor tweaks to it, cutting down a bit of the sugar and swapping in olive oil for the light vegetable oil. This cake feels wholesome. The kind of breakfast cake or snacking cake I could whip up on a whim and eat without feeling guilty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes though, times call for something...well, a little less wholesome. Sorry Les, I got nasty with this apple cake. I added two sticks of butter and layered it with thick swaths of decadent New York-style crumb topping. I know, I’m a depraved soul. Forgive me. Or, um...thank me. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-25.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-25.jpg\" alt=\"Bring on the crumb\" title=\"Bring on the crumb\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52123\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bring on the crumb\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inspiration for the crumb topping comes from one of my favorite baking blogs, \u003ca href=\"http://www.culinaryconcoctionsbypeabody.com/2010/07/13/baker-superiority-complex/\">Culinary Concoctions by Peabody\u003c/a>. Peabody and I met on a press trip over \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/events/harry-david-the-people-behind-the-pears/\">Harry & David pears\u003c/a> and I immediately respected her immodest use of butter. Peabody didn’t let me down, and indeed I found what I was looking for on her site. A thick, cakey, swoon-inducing crumb topping, the kind you find perched on top of old fashioned crumb cakes or crumb cake doughnuts, the kind that those Hostess Crumb Cakes never have enough of. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I had another brilliant idea. What’s better than crumb topping? Well, three layers of crumb topping, of course. Why be stingy with the good stuff?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part is, this is still a pretty low-maintenance cake. It basically requires three main steps:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>#1: Make the crumb topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-7.jpg\" alt=\"New York Style Crumb Topping\" title=\"New York Style Crumb Topping\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52122\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>New York Style Crumb Topping\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>#2: Make the apple cake batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-64.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-64.jpg\" alt=\"Apple cake batter\" title=\"Apple cake batter\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52128\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple cake batter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>#3: Layer it all together: crumb, apples, crumb, apples, crumb.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-65.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-65.jpg\" alt=\"Layers of goodness\" title=\"Layers of goodness\" width=\"373\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52129\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Layers of goodness\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really though, when all is said and done, you kind of lose track of where the crumb layers end and where the apple cake starts, and it all becomes one heavenly morsel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-53.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-53.jpg\" alt=\"apple crumb cake\" title=\"apple crumb cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52124\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Heaven\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This \u003cstrong>Apple Crumb Cake\u003c/strong> is simply out of this world. It has a comforting heft to it. It will remind you of apple picking and old fashioned doughnut shops. The cake on its own is wonderful, but the crumb topping just pushes it over the edge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, think of it this way...you now have a naughty \u003cem>and\u003c/em> nice version to choose from!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-63.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-63.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Crumb Cake with Glaze\" title=\"Apple Crumb Cake with Glaze\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52127\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple Crumb Cake with Glaze\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apple Crumb Cake\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is officially my new favorite coffee/breakfast/snack/anytime cake. It has a comforting heft to it. It will remind you of apple picking and old fashioned donut shops. The cake on its own is wonderful, but the crumb topping makes it swoon-worthy. You will eat every last crumb. Promise.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 30 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Apple Cake:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n3 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>\n2 medium apples, peeled, cored, and diced (about 3 cups) – I used 1 Granny Smith and 1 Honeycrisp\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Crumb Topping and Layers:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and still warm\u003cbr>\n3 1/2 cups cake flour *\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 350 F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make the crumb topping:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Whisk sugars, cinnamon, salt, and butter in a medium bowl to combine. Add cake flour and stir with a spatula or spoon until the mixture resembles thick crumbles; set aside to cool to room temperature, 10-15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make the apple cake batter:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Put all ingredients in one large bowl. Mix with your hands, gently, but thoroughly (do not use a spoon or mixer).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Assemble:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Lightly grease your bundt pan (or 9x13 pan). Now layer your crumb topping and apple cake mixture. Start with a bottom layer of a third of the crumb mixture, then half of the batter, second third of the crumbs, remaining half of the batter, and finally, the last of the crumbs.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 1 hour. Test that it’s done by inserting a knife or skewer. If it comes out clean it’s done. Loosen the edges with the edge of a knife and invert the cake onto your serving plate to cool.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cook’s Note: I think that this cake is plenty sweet as it is, but if you are looking to bring this over the edge on the presentation and indulgence front, feel free to drizzle on some powdered sugar icing after the cake has fully cooled. Recipe for the glaze below for your sweet tooth pleasure: \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Powdered Sugar Icing (aka White Fondant Glaze)\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups powdered sugar\u003cbr>\n6 tablespoons (or up to 1/2 cup) warm milk\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift 4 cups of powdered sugar into a bowl. Slowly add 6 tablespoons to 1/2 cup of warm milk, briskly whisking until all the sugar is dissolved. Only add as much milk as is needed to make a thick, smooth paste. Whisk in the vanilla. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>* If you don’t have cake flour, you can substitute using this handy formula:\u003cbr>\n1 cup AP flour – 2 tablespoons AP flour + 2 tablespoons corn starch = 1 cup cake flour.\u003cbr>\nBe sure to sift everything well, 3-4 times, before using.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-59.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-59.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" title=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52125\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple Crumb Cake: Naughty.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"This is officially my new favorite coffee/breakfast/snack/anytime cake. It has a comforting heft to it. It will remind you of apple picking and old fashioned donut shops. The cake on its own is wonderful, but the crumb topping makes it swoon-worthy. You will eat every last crumb. Promise.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1386121423,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":34,"wordCount":991},"headData":{"title":"Apple Crumb Cake: A Naughty Version of the Nice | KQED","description":"This is officially my new favorite coffee/breakfast/snack/anytime cake. It has a comforting heft to it. It will remind you of apple picking and old fashioned donut shops. The cake on its own is wonderful, but the crumb topping makes it swoon-worthy. You will eat every last crumb. Promise.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Apple Crumb Cake: A Naughty Version of the Nice","datePublished":"2012-12-23T22:50:04.000Z","dateModified":"2013-12-04T01:43:43.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"52121 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=52121","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/23/apple-crumb-cake-a-naughty-version-of-the-nice/","disqusTitle":"Apple Crumb Cake: A Naughty Version of the Nice","path":"/bayareabites/52121/apple-crumb-cake-a-naughty-version-of-the-nice","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-62.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-62.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" title=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52126\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple Crumb Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first tasted this \u003cstrong>apple cake\u003c/strong> at a lovely brunch my friend, Leslie, hosted about a year ago. It was a simple, satisfying cake, full of juicy chunks of apples, warm spices, and a bit of crunch on the surface and around the edges. As I helped myself to a second serving, I grilled Leslie for the details and she promised it was silly easy -- a one bowl affair that didn’t even require a mixer. Sold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leslie’s apple cake is awesome as is. I made minor tweaks to it, cutting down a bit of the sugar and swapping in olive oil for the light vegetable oil. This cake feels wholesome. The kind of breakfast cake or snacking cake I could whip up on a whim and eat without feeling guilty. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes though, times call for something...well, a little less wholesome. Sorry Les, I got nasty with this apple cake. I added two sticks of butter and layered it with thick swaths of decadent New York-style crumb topping. I know, I’m a depraved soul. Forgive me. Or, um...thank me. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-25.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-25.jpg\" alt=\"Bring on the crumb\" title=\"Bring on the crumb\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52123\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bring on the crumb\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inspiration for the crumb topping comes from one of my favorite baking blogs, \u003ca href=\"http://www.culinaryconcoctionsbypeabody.com/2010/07/13/baker-superiority-complex/\">Culinary Concoctions by Peabody\u003c/a>. Peabody and I met on a press trip over \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/events/harry-david-the-people-behind-the-pears/\">Harry & David pears\u003c/a> and I immediately respected her immodest use of butter. Peabody didn’t let me down, and indeed I found what I was looking for on her site. A thick, cakey, swoon-inducing crumb topping, the kind you find perched on top of old fashioned crumb cakes or crumb cake doughnuts, the kind that those Hostess Crumb Cakes never have enough of. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I had another brilliant idea. What’s better than crumb topping? Well, three layers of crumb topping, of course. Why be stingy with the good stuff?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part is, this is still a pretty low-maintenance cake. It basically requires three main steps:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>#1: Make the crumb topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-7.jpg\" alt=\"New York Style Crumb Topping\" title=\"New York Style Crumb Topping\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52122\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>New York Style Crumb Topping\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>#2: Make the apple cake batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-64.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-64.jpg\" alt=\"Apple cake batter\" title=\"Apple cake batter\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52128\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple cake batter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>#3: Layer it all together: crumb, apples, crumb, apples, crumb.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-65.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-65.jpg\" alt=\"Layers of goodness\" title=\"Layers of goodness\" width=\"373\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52129\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Layers of goodness\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Really though, when all is said and done, you kind of lose track of where the crumb layers end and where the apple cake starts, and it all becomes one heavenly morsel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-53.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-53.jpg\" alt=\"apple crumb cake\" title=\"apple crumb cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52124\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Heaven\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This \u003cstrong>Apple Crumb Cake\u003c/strong> is simply out of this world. It has a comforting heft to it. It will remind you of apple picking and old fashioned doughnut shops. The cake on its own is wonderful, but the crumb topping just pushes it over the edge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, think of it this way...you now have a naughty \u003cem>and\u003c/em> nice version to choose from!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-63.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-63.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Crumb Cake with Glaze\" title=\"Apple Crumb Cake with Glaze\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52127\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple Crumb Cake with Glaze\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Apple Crumb Cake\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is officially my new favorite coffee/breakfast/snack/anytime cake. It has a comforting heft to it. It will remind you of apple picking and old fashioned donut shops. The cake on its own is wonderful, but the crumb topping makes it swoon-worthy. You will eat every last crumb. Promise.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 30 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 30 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Apple Cake:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup olive oil\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n3 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>\n2 medium apples, peeled, cored, and diced (about 3 cups) – I used 1 Granny Smith and 1 Honeycrisp\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>For the Crumb Topping and Layers:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n2/3 cup brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and still warm\u003cbr>\n3 1/2 cups cake flour *\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Preheat oven to 350 F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make the crumb topping:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Whisk sugars, cinnamon, salt, and butter in a medium bowl to combine. Add cake flour and stir with a spatula or spoon until the mixture resembles thick crumbles; set aside to cool to room temperature, 10-15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make the apple cake batter:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Put all ingredients in one large bowl. Mix with your hands, gently, but thoroughly (do not use a spoon or mixer).\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Assemble:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> Lightly grease your bundt pan (or 9x13 pan). Now layer your crumb topping and apple cake mixture. Start with a bottom layer of a third of the crumb mixture, then half of the batter, second third of the crumbs, remaining half of the batter, and finally, the last of the crumbs.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 1 hour. Test that it’s done by inserting a knife or skewer. If it comes out clean it’s done. Loosen the edges with the edge of a knife and invert the cake onto your serving plate to cool.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cook’s Note: I think that this cake is plenty sweet as it is, but if you are looking to bring this over the edge on the presentation and indulgence front, feel free to drizzle on some powdered sugar icing after the cake has fully cooled. Recipe for the glaze below for your sweet tooth pleasure: \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Powdered Sugar Icing (aka White Fondant Glaze)\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups powdered sugar\u003cbr>\n6 tablespoons (or up to 1/2 cup) warm milk\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift 4 cups of powdered sugar into a bowl. Slowly add 6 tablespoons to 1/2 cup of warm milk, briskly whisking until all the sugar is dissolved. Only add as much milk as is needed to make a thick, smooth paste. Whisk in the vanilla. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>* If you don’t have cake flour, you can substitute using this handy formula:\u003cbr>\n1 cup AP flour – 2 tablespoons AP flour + 2 tablespoons corn starch = 1 cup cake flour.\u003cbr>\nBe sure to sift everything well, 3-4 times, before using.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-59.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/2012-11-10-apple-crumb-cake-59.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" title=\"Apple Crumb Cake\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-52125\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Apple Crumb Cake: Naughty.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/52121/apple-crumb-cake-a-naughty-version-of-the-nice","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_12744","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_469","bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_558","bayareabites_220","bayareabites_10892","bayareabites_1820"],"featImg":"bayareabites_53289","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_38315":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_38315","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"38315","score":null,"sort":[1328630454000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw","title":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw","publishDate":1328630454,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/HBC-300.jpg\" alt=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" title=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" width=\"300\" height=\"351\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-38612\">\u003c/a>The buttery-sweet smell of morning muffins, fresh from the oven. A lavishly frosted kid's birthday cake, awaiting its candles. A sticky spoonful of chocolate-chip cookie dough snuck from the bowl. What can be more comforting coming out of the kitchen than home-baked treats? \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">Home Baked Comfort\u003c/a>, Williams-Sonoma's latest addition into its line of comfort-food cookbooks, is very aptly named.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Written by longtime cookbook editor and Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Home Baked Comfort\u003c/em> jettisons the informative but anonymous tone typical to many Williams-Sonoma books for a warmer, more personal voice. Many of Laidlaw's recipes are inspired by family traditions or by cooking with friends, interspersed with photos and recipes from well-loved neighborhood bakeries, including our own \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also a few recipes from popular home baker-bloggers, like Deb Perelman of \u003ca href=\"http://www.smittenkitchen.com\" title=\"Smitten Kitchen\">Smitten Kitchen\u003c/a> and Aran Goyoaga of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cannellevanille.com/\">Cannelle et Vanille\u003c/a>. The short interviews with the owners of local bakeries are pithy and funny, and the brightly charming photos of each spot made me want to run right out and get a Banana Puddin' cupcake at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarmamasbakeshop.com\">Sugar Mama's Bakeshop\u003c/a> in Austin, Texas or a purple-studded, sugar-topped blueberry muffin at \u003ca href=\"http://www.huckleberrycafe.com\">Huckleberry Cafe & Bakery\u003c/a> in Santa Monica. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beautifully photographed by baker Eric Wolfinger (who also photographed the striking \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a>), the book looks both scrumptious and modern, neither cutesy-cozy nor bare-plate stark. Wolfinger, a baker himself, made every recipe he photographed, providing yet another round of useful recipe testing. Recipe pages without photographs are given a parchment-paper wash, a bit of visual interest presumably meant to evoke a family recipe scribbled on a time-yellowed slip of paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"300\" height=\"366\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-38615\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing's too daunting; nothing requires much more than the usual home-kitchen setup of cake pans, pie pans, and baking sheets. (Do pick up some buttermilk, sour cream, and a microplane citrus zester before you start, however.) And, like the pictures, the recipes are flavorful and engaging; you could serve them at a bake sale or a dinner party and earn the same enraptured, nothing-but-crumbs-on-the-plate reaction. As an dedicated home baker myself, I caught up with Laidlaw at her home in Noe Valley on the eve of her book's release to find out how it all came together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, how did Laidlaw go from editor to writer? Last year, as part of her job as an editor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.weldonowen.com/\">Weldon Owen\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based publisher which creates Williams-Sonoma's branded books in addition to other titles, Laidlaw was tasked with finding a writer/recipe developer for a planned home-baking book. (Full disclosure: As a freelance writer and editor, I have worked with Laidlaw and others at Weldon Owen professionally over the years.) The more she thought about the project, the more she realized, \"This is what I do!\" It wasn't just that she was a lifelong home baker; before becoming a full-time cookbook editor, she'd graduated from \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefs.edu/san-francisco\">CCA\u003c/a>'s Baking and Pastry program, then worked as a baker at Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafarine.com\">La Farine\u003c/a> bakery. She knew, having edited dozens of Williams-Sonoma cookbooks, just how important it was to produce the sort of meticulously tested, foolproof recipes that the brand was known for, and felt sure that she had both the baking and writing chops to do it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But just being an employee didn't give her an automatic in; like any other potential author, she had to present a detailed proposal outlining her recipes, her approach, and why she'd be the best choice for the job. It worked, and with a pressing deadline looming, she got busy whipping up layer cakes and butterscotch puddings in her cramped home kitchen, where there was no Viking stove or Sub-Zero fridge, just the usual generic appliances of any apartment rental. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing the book happened to coincide with Laidlaw's pregnancy--which translated into a mostly ravenous appetite. Laidlaw laughed when asked about the rapturous headnotes describing each recipe. \"I wrote it while I was pregnant! I would find myself eating half the batch of scones,\" in one sitting, and everything she made tasted like the best thing ever. Her husband, who had recently started a new job, earned instant popularity around the office as the guy with the recipe-testing wife; \"crazy amounts\" of tester cookies, brownies, cakes and more went with him to work almost daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, with the book just out, Laidlaw is still baking, only this time with her young daughter Poppy tucked in a carrier across her chest. \"We bake together. She loves it!\" Laidlaw said, and it's true: during my visit, Poppy was giggling and smiling, her eyes following her mother's deft movements as Laidlaw whisked together the batter for \u003cstrong>Pumpkin-Brandy Bread,\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>) a specialty of her own mother's. The finished product, still hot out of the oven, wasn't overly boozy, but it did have a wonderfully grown-up whiff of brandy to it, making it perfect for afternoon tea, especially during the holidays. Her trick for cooking while parenting? \"I cook everything in tiny steps, so I can stop anytime.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of her favorite recipes in the book are ones that come from her own family traditions, like the Christmas Breakfast Pie, something that she, her mother, and her brother make every Christmas, no matter where they are, and the Beer Rolls, originally made with just Bisquick and beer. \"My brother and I thought that was so cool, baking with beer!\" she said, which led her to develop a similar, from-scratch recipe that captured the appeal of the original. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She finds her inspiration in things she sees in bakeries, in restaurants, in flavor combinations she imagines. \"I'm kind of a lemon freak. There's a crazy amount of citrus zest in the book, it's kind of obnoxious!\" As for her favorite thing to bake, \"definitely pies and galettes,\" although she especially admires bread bakers. \"It's a real skill that can be kind of hard to do in a home kitchen. But it's so basic and satisfying.\" Flipping through the recipes, it's clear that Laidlaw has a taste for fruit; there are wonderful, not-too-sweet fruit desserts in every chapter. \u003cstrong>Pear Custard Tart\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>), inspired by a old Julia Child recipe, comes out delectably elegant, and the vanilla-poached pears are good enough to eat on their own. Laidlaw prefers a hint of salt to too much sweetness, and few recipes seem overly gooey or rich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an easy, appealing book, reflecting Laidlaw's own opinion, based in experience as both a professional and a home baker, that baking isn't that hard, and that its reputation as the stern, inflexible taskmistress of the kitchen is ill-deserved. Once you know the basic chemistry of baking and have a feel for how different baked goods work, you can mess around with your recipes, more than you might think. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The whole point of the book is to get more people baking, get them to see that it's not so daunting, make it approachable and fun.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>That said, are there common pitfalls that new bakers might avoid?\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>\"People overwork pastry and biscuit dough too much, then they get frustrated,\" when it doesn't turn out as flaky or fluffy as they hoped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In making quick breads, like muffins, that are raised with baking powder and/or baking soda, \"some people mix the batter and then just let it sit,\" rather than getting it into the oven, pronto. Once the batter is mixed, the chemical leavening process starts, and so delaying the baking process can produce a flat result.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And finally, people frequently overbake, paying more attention to the minutes specified in the recipe than to what their senses tell them about the finished product.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>It all comes down to not following recipes too rigidly.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I want people to relax and enjoy it, be more flexible. Not all ingredients are the same, and things change depending on how cold, hot, or wet the day is. Just relax! I think it's the best thing you can do for somebody, to bake something for them.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\" alt=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"500\" height=\"588\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38620\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pear-Custard Tart\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe first recipe from Julia Child that I ever made was her French custard apple tart, which I still love to this day. This delicately flavored tart, filled with vanilla-poached pears and brandy-spiked custard and topped with sugary toasted almonds, is an ode to her and that memorable dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFlaky Pie Dough for single crust (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>for the poached pears\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n3⁄4 cup (6 oz⁄185 g) Sugar\u003cbr>\n3 ripe but firm pears, preferably Bosc, peeled, quartered, and cored\u003cbr>\nPeel of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) sugar plus 1 tbsp\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz⁄125 ml) heavy cream\u003cbr>\n1 tsp pure vanilla extract or 2 tbsp brandy (optional)\u003cbr>\nPinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (1 oz⁄30 g) sliced almonds, lightly toasted \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes one 10-inch (25-cm) tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPrepare the flaky pie dough and chill as directed. (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To poach the pears, cut a circle of parchment paper that will fit in a medium saucepan. Cut a small circle in the middle of the parchment. In the saucepan, bring 3 cups (24 fl oz/750 ml) water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the pears and orange peel. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds with the back of a paring knife; add the pod and seeds to the saucepan. Lay the parchment in the saucepan to submerge the pears. Adjust the heat so that the liquid simmers gently and poach the pears until just tender, about 15 minutes. Let cool in the poaching liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a circle about 13 inches (33 cm) in diameter. Transfer the dough to a 10-inch (25-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom and ease into the pan. Trim away any excess dough. Line the tart shell with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is dried out and just starting to color a bit, about 20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights. Let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut each pear quarter lengthwise into 4 slices, then lay most of the pear slices in the crust in an overlapping circle close to the rim. Use the remaining slices to fill the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bowl, beat together the egg and the 1⁄4 cup sugar until thick and pale. Beat in the flour and then the cream, vanilla, if using, and salt. Pour evenly over the pears. Bake until the custard starts to puff up, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the toasted almonds and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar over the top of the tart. Continue to bake until the custard is set and lightly browned, 15–20 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack until warm or room temperature before slicing and serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTo turn this into an apple tart, gently sauté 3 peeled, cored, and sliced apples in 1 tablespoon butter until they just start to become tender. Spread evenly in the partially baked crust, pour over the custard, and proceed with the recipe from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Flaky Pie Dough for Single Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄4 cups (61⁄2 oz⁄200 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 tsp sugar (optional; omit if making a savory dish)\u003cbr>\n7 tbsp (31⁄2 oz⁄105 g) very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes\u003cbr>\n5 tbsp (3 fl oz⁄80 ml) ice water, plus more if needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes enough for one 9-inch (23-cm) pie or tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn the bowl of a food processor, stir together the flour, salt, and sugar, if using. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle the butter over the top and pulse for a few seconds, or just until the butter is slightly broken up into the flour but still in visible pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evenly sprinkle the water over the flour mixture, then process just until the mixture starts to come together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dump the dough into a large lock-top plastic bag, and press into a flat disk. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes or up to 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pumpkin Brandy Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGrowing up, I remember my mom baking this bread in metal coffee cans and how I loved the funny round shape. This recipe calls for a lot of brandy, more than you might be comfortable with, but it is honestly the best pumpkin bread I have ever tasted. You can cut the brandy in half if you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 large eggs\u003cbr>\n2 cups (1 lb⁄500 g) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (7 oz⁄220 g) firmly packed light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 fl oz⁄250 ml) canola oil\u003cbr>\n2⁄3 cup (5 fl oz⁄160 ml) brandy\u003cbr>\n1 can (15 oz⁄470 g) pumpkin puree\u003cbr>\n3 1⁄2 cups (171⁄2 oz⁄545 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n2 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) chopped pecans or walnuts, lightly toasted (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPosition a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Generously butter two 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm) loaf pans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugars. Add the oil, brandy, and pumpkin and whisk to combine. In another bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, pumpkin pie spice, and salt. Add to the pumpkin mixture along with the nuts, if using, and stir to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake until richly golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let cool slightly in the pans, then turn the loaves out onto a wire rack to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBaked in smaller, individual-sized loaf pans, this decadent bread makes excellent mini gifts during the holidays. Divide the batter between the pans. The baking time might vary depending on the size of the pans. Once the baked loaves have cooled, wrap each one in colorful cellophane, tie a ribbon around it, and bring on the good cheer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes and Photos appears with permission from Home Baked Comfort. Photographs by Eric Wolfinger Copyright 2011 by Weldon Owen Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Home Baked Comfort, Williams-Sonoma's latest baking book, promises to get you baking with over a hundred recipes for delectable, homemade treats.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1328635424,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":2536},"headData":{"title":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw | KQED","description":"Home Baked Comfort, Williams-Sonoma's latest baking book, promises to get you baking with over a hundred recipes for delectable, homemade treats.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw","datePublished":"2012-02-07T16:00:54.000Z","dateModified":"2012-02-07T17:23:44.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"38315 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=38315","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/07/cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw/","disqusTitle":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw","path":"/bayareabites/38315/cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/HBC-300.jpg\" alt=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" title=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" width=\"300\" height=\"351\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-38612\">\u003c/a>The buttery-sweet smell of morning muffins, fresh from the oven. A lavishly frosted kid's birthday cake, awaiting its candles. A sticky spoonful of chocolate-chip cookie dough snuck from the bowl. What can be more comforting coming out of the kitchen than home-baked treats? \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">Home Baked Comfort\u003c/a>, Williams-Sonoma's latest addition into its line of comfort-food cookbooks, is very aptly named.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Written by longtime cookbook editor and Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Home Baked Comfort\u003c/em> jettisons the informative but anonymous tone typical to many Williams-Sonoma books for a warmer, more personal voice. Many of Laidlaw's recipes are inspired by family traditions or by cooking with friends, interspersed with photos and recipes from well-loved neighborhood bakeries, including our own \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also a few recipes from popular home baker-bloggers, like Deb Perelman of \u003ca href=\"http://www.smittenkitchen.com\" title=\"Smitten Kitchen\">Smitten Kitchen\u003c/a> and Aran Goyoaga of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cannellevanille.com/\">Cannelle et Vanille\u003c/a>. The short interviews with the owners of local bakeries are pithy and funny, and the brightly charming photos of each spot made me want to run right out and get a Banana Puddin' cupcake at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarmamasbakeshop.com\">Sugar Mama's Bakeshop\u003c/a> in Austin, Texas or a purple-studded, sugar-topped blueberry muffin at \u003ca href=\"http://www.huckleberrycafe.com\">Huckleberry Cafe & Bakery\u003c/a> in Santa Monica. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beautifully photographed by baker Eric Wolfinger (who also photographed the striking \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a>), the book looks both scrumptious and modern, neither cutesy-cozy nor bare-plate stark. Wolfinger, a baker himself, made every recipe he photographed, providing yet another round of useful recipe testing. Recipe pages without photographs are given a parchment-paper wash, a bit of visual interest presumably meant to evoke a family recipe scribbled on a time-yellowed slip of paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"300\" height=\"366\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-38615\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing's too daunting; nothing requires much more than the usual home-kitchen setup of cake pans, pie pans, and baking sheets. (Do pick up some buttermilk, sour cream, and a microplane citrus zester before you start, however.) And, like the pictures, the recipes are flavorful and engaging; you could serve them at a bake sale or a dinner party and earn the same enraptured, nothing-but-crumbs-on-the-plate reaction. As an dedicated home baker myself, I caught up with Laidlaw at her home in Noe Valley on the eve of her book's release to find out how it all came together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, how did Laidlaw go from editor to writer? Last year, as part of her job as an editor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.weldonowen.com/\">Weldon Owen\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based publisher which creates Williams-Sonoma's branded books in addition to other titles, Laidlaw was tasked with finding a writer/recipe developer for a planned home-baking book. (Full disclosure: As a freelance writer and editor, I have worked with Laidlaw and others at Weldon Owen professionally over the years.) The more she thought about the project, the more she realized, \"This is what I do!\" It wasn't just that she was a lifelong home baker; before becoming a full-time cookbook editor, she'd graduated from \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefs.edu/san-francisco\">CCA\u003c/a>'s Baking and Pastry program, then worked as a baker at Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafarine.com\">La Farine\u003c/a> bakery. She knew, having edited dozens of Williams-Sonoma cookbooks, just how important it was to produce the sort of meticulously tested, foolproof recipes that the brand was known for, and felt sure that she had both the baking and writing chops to do it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But just being an employee didn't give her an automatic in; like any other potential author, she had to present a detailed proposal outlining her recipes, her approach, and why she'd be the best choice for the job. It worked, and with a pressing deadline looming, she got busy whipping up layer cakes and butterscotch puddings in her cramped home kitchen, where there was no Viking stove or Sub-Zero fridge, just the usual generic appliances of any apartment rental. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing the book happened to coincide with Laidlaw's pregnancy--which translated into a mostly ravenous appetite. Laidlaw laughed when asked about the rapturous headnotes describing each recipe. \"I wrote it while I was pregnant! I would find myself eating half the batch of scones,\" in one sitting, and everything she made tasted like the best thing ever. Her husband, who had recently started a new job, earned instant popularity around the office as the guy with the recipe-testing wife; \"crazy amounts\" of tester cookies, brownies, cakes and more went with him to work almost daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, with the book just out, Laidlaw is still baking, only this time with her young daughter Poppy tucked in a carrier across her chest. \"We bake together. She loves it!\" Laidlaw said, and it's true: during my visit, Poppy was giggling and smiling, her eyes following her mother's deft movements as Laidlaw whisked together the batter for \u003cstrong>Pumpkin-Brandy Bread,\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>) a specialty of her own mother's. The finished product, still hot out of the oven, wasn't overly boozy, but it did have a wonderfully grown-up whiff of brandy to it, making it perfect for afternoon tea, especially during the holidays. Her trick for cooking while parenting? \"I cook everything in tiny steps, so I can stop anytime.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of her favorite recipes in the book are ones that come from her own family traditions, like the Christmas Breakfast Pie, something that she, her mother, and her brother make every Christmas, no matter where they are, and the Beer Rolls, originally made with just Bisquick and beer. \"My brother and I thought that was so cool, baking with beer!\" she said, which led her to develop a similar, from-scratch recipe that captured the appeal of the original. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She finds her inspiration in things she sees in bakeries, in restaurants, in flavor combinations she imagines. \"I'm kind of a lemon freak. There's a crazy amount of citrus zest in the book, it's kind of obnoxious!\" As for her favorite thing to bake, \"definitely pies and galettes,\" although she especially admires bread bakers. \"It's a real skill that can be kind of hard to do in a home kitchen. But it's so basic and satisfying.\" Flipping through the recipes, it's clear that Laidlaw has a taste for fruit; there are wonderful, not-too-sweet fruit desserts in every chapter. \u003cstrong>Pear Custard Tart\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>), inspired by a old Julia Child recipe, comes out delectably elegant, and the vanilla-poached pears are good enough to eat on their own. Laidlaw prefers a hint of salt to too much sweetness, and few recipes seem overly gooey or rich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an easy, appealing book, reflecting Laidlaw's own opinion, based in experience as both a professional and a home baker, that baking isn't that hard, and that its reputation as the stern, inflexible taskmistress of the kitchen is ill-deserved. Once you know the basic chemistry of baking and have a feel for how different baked goods work, you can mess around with your recipes, more than you might think. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The whole point of the book is to get more people baking, get them to see that it's not so daunting, make it approachable and fun.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>That said, are there common pitfalls that new bakers might avoid?\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>\"People overwork pastry and biscuit dough too much, then they get frustrated,\" when it doesn't turn out as flaky or fluffy as they hoped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In making quick breads, like muffins, that are raised with baking powder and/or baking soda, \"some people mix the batter and then just let it sit,\" rather than getting it into the oven, pronto. Once the batter is mixed, the chemical leavening process starts, and so delaying the baking process can produce a flat result.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And finally, people frequently overbake, paying more attention to the minutes specified in the recipe than to what their senses tell them about the finished product.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>It all comes down to not following recipes too rigidly.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I want people to relax and enjoy it, be more flexible. Not all ingredients are the same, and things change depending on how cold, hot, or wet the day is. Just relax! I think it's the best thing you can do for somebody, to bake something for them.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\" alt=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"500\" height=\"588\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38620\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pear-Custard Tart\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe first recipe from Julia Child that I ever made was her French custard apple tart, which I still love to this day. This delicately flavored tart, filled with vanilla-poached pears and brandy-spiked custard and topped with sugary toasted almonds, is an ode to her and that memorable dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFlaky Pie Dough for single crust (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>for the poached pears\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n3⁄4 cup (6 oz⁄185 g) Sugar\u003cbr>\n3 ripe but firm pears, preferably Bosc, peeled, quartered, and cored\u003cbr>\nPeel of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) sugar plus 1 tbsp\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz⁄125 ml) heavy cream\u003cbr>\n1 tsp pure vanilla extract or 2 tbsp brandy (optional)\u003cbr>\nPinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (1 oz⁄30 g) sliced almonds, lightly toasted \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes one 10-inch (25-cm) tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPrepare the flaky pie dough and chill as directed. (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To poach the pears, cut a circle of parchment paper that will fit in a medium saucepan. Cut a small circle in the middle of the parchment. In the saucepan, bring 3 cups (24 fl oz/750 ml) water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the pears and orange peel. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds with the back of a paring knife; add the pod and seeds to the saucepan. Lay the parchment in the saucepan to submerge the pears. Adjust the heat so that the liquid simmers gently and poach the pears until just tender, about 15 minutes. Let cool in the poaching liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a circle about 13 inches (33 cm) in diameter. Transfer the dough to a 10-inch (25-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom and ease into the pan. Trim away any excess dough. Line the tart shell with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is dried out and just starting to color a bit, about 20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights. Let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut each pear quarter lengthwise into 4 slices, then lay most of the pear slices in the crust in an overlapping circle close to the rim. Use the remaining slices to fill the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bowl, beat together the egg and the 1⁄4 cup sugar until thick and pale. Beat in the flour and then the cream, vanilla, if using, and salt. Pour evenly over the pears. Bake until the custard starts to puff up, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the toasted almonds and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar over the top of the tart. Continue to bake until the custard is set and lightly browned, 15–20 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack until warm or room temperature before slicing and serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTo turn this into an apple tart, gently sauté 3 peeled, cored, and sliced apples in 1 tablespoon butter until they just start to become tender. Spread evenly in the partially baked crust, pour over the custard, and proceed with the recipe from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Flaky Pie Dough for Single Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄4 cups (61⁄2 oz⁄200 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 tsp sugar (optional; omit if making a savory dish)\u003cbr>\n7 tbsp (31⁄2 oz⁄105 g) very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes\u003cbr>\n5 tbsp (3 fl oz⁄80 ml) ice water, plus more if needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes enough for one 9-inch (23-cm) pie or tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn the bowl of a food processor, stir together the flour, salt, and sugar, if using. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle the butter over the top and pulse for a few seconds, or just until the butter is slightly broken up into the flour but still in visible pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evenly sprinkle the water over the flour mixture, then process just until the mixture starts to come together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dump the dough into a large lock-top plastic bag, and press into a flat disk. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes or up to 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pumpkin Brandy Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGrowing up, I remember my mom baking this bread in metal coffee cans and how I loved the funny round shape. This recipe calls for a lot of brandy, more than you might be comfortable with, but it is honestly the best pumpkin bread I have ever tasted. You can cut the brandy in half if you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 large eggs\u003cbr>\n2 cups (1 lb⁄500 g) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (7 oz⁄220 g) firmly packed light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 fl oz⁄250 ml) canola oil\u003cbr>\n2⁄3 cup (5 fl oz⁄160 ml) brandy\u003cbr>\n1 can (15 oz⁄470 g) pumpkin puree\u003cbr>\n3 1⁄2 cups (171⁄2 oz⁄545 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n2 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) chopped pecans or walnuts, lightly toasted (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPosition a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Generously butter two 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm) loaf pans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugars. Add the oil, brandy, and pumpkin and whisk to combine. In another bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, pumpkin pie spice, and salt. Add to the pumpkin mixture along with the nuts, if using, and stir to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake until richly golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let cool slightly in the pans, then turn the loaves out onto a wire rack to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBaked in smaller, individual-sized loaf pans, this decadent bread makes excellent mini gifts during the holidays. Divide the batter between the pans. The baking time might vary depending on the size of the pans. Once the baked loaves have cooled, wrap each one in colorful cellophane, tie a ribbon around it, and bring on the good cheer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes and Photos appears with permission from Home Baked Comfort. Photographs by Eric Wolfinger Copyright 2011 by Weldon Owen Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/38315/cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_253","bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_430","bayareabites_10139","bayareabites_1541","bayareabites_1510","bayareabites_1284","bayareabites_1393"],"featImg":"bayareabites_38612","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_17668":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_17668","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"17668","score":null,"sort":[1286892050000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-week-at-the-san-francisco-baking-institute","title":"A Week at The San Francisco Baking Institute ","publishDate":1286892050,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Learning-.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Learning-.jpg\" alt=\"Learning at San Francisco Baking Institute\" title=\"Learning at San Francisco Baking Institute\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17669\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Exploring Ingredients Class at San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week was big for me. I took a week off from work, returned very few emails, and my dogs suffered a severe lack of exercise. Why? I spent all week baking eight hours a day at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbi.com/\">San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/a>, brushing up on my skills and learning the \"how's\" and \"why's\" behind much of the baking I do at home (\u003cem>How exactly can I make this cookie chewier? Why add potato starch here? What effect does pastry flour have on this recipe?\u003c/em>). Each day I came home with boxes of treats to share with family, friends, and coworkers along with copious notes and a head spinning with information on technique and method. After spending the weekend debriefing, I thought I'd share the top ten things I learned from my one week in pastry school. Some of the tips here are relatively basic and fundamental, others are a bit more advanced. Each could certainly use its very own post. But sometimes broad coverage is nice--it's just enough to get you inspired to break out a muffin or cake recipe for the coming week. I'd love to hear any of your own baking tips/revelations, too! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Breakfast-Pastries.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Breakfast-Pastries.jpg\" alt=\"Breakfast Pastries\" title=\"Breakfast Pastries\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17670\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making Breakfast Pasties: Day 2\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Mixing Methods:\u003c/strong> It's important to understand the different mixing methods when baking. And then to follow them. For example, when using the \"Creaming Method\" for cookies, you're really just creaming together the sugar and butter until combined. However, when making brownies, you need to integrate a lot of air into your batter when mixing your sugar and butter. This acts as your leavening agent (look at most brownie recipes and you'll notice a lack of chemical leaveners like baking soda or powder). So you'll need to mix on a higher speed for a longer period of time. If you're interested in reading more on mixing methods, \u003ca href=\"http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/how_to_bake.htm\">The Reluctant Gourmet\u003c/a> has done a nice post covering them in more detail. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. Pay Attention to Your Flours:\u003c/strong> People use all different kinds of flour in pastry production for a variety of reasons. Cake flour and pastry flour have the lowest amount of protein whereas bread flour and all-purpose flour have the highest. As a general rule, the higher the amount of protein, the more structure the dough will have (think of how many cakes are so light and fluffy while traditional breads are heartier). Once you become familiar with how the various flours change the outcome of your pastries and baked goods, you can begin adapting recipes to create different textures simply by swapping the flours.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\n3. All About Super-Fine Sugar:\u003c/strong> I generally use granulated sugar at home. However, this past week we worked solely with superfine sugar (unless the recipe called for powdered or liquid sugar) and I learned why: superfine sugar melts in moisture more quickly than regular granulated sugar, and is really preferable for fine textured baked goods. Try it--you may just notice a difference. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/desserts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/desserts.jpg\" alt=\"desserts\" title=\"desserts\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17671\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From Angel Food Cake to Madelines: A Few of the Desserts\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\n4. Temperature Matters:\u003c/strong> Much of what you're doing when mixing various batters is creating a smooth emulsion. We've all made a recipe where the batter turned out a little too chunky or broken looking, haven't we? There are many reasons why this might happen, but the main one is that the ingredients aren't the proper temperature. If you don't have time to bring your eggs up to room temperature, mix them together in a small bowl and microwave them for 20-30 seconds until warm. And for many recipes (not including pie dough, obviously) you want your butter softened but not oily or completely melted. Pay attention to the temperature of your ingredients and you'll have smooth, silky dough more often than not.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\n5. Take it Slow:\u003c/strong> Ah, cakes...a relative cousin to the cookie but with much more moisture. Because of this increased moisture, you'll notice most recipes ask that you alternate between dry and wet ingredients when combining the two together. You don't want to break the emulsion (or bind) between the butter and the eggs or your batter will start to look broken or separated. Slow down. Take your time. If a recipe asks that you alternate between the wet and the dry, there's a reason for that: don't dump your ingredients in all at once. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. All About Pie Dough:\u003c/strong> I love making pies and quietly judge people who don't make their own crust. It's just so basic and tastes so much better than boxed pie crust. I was humbled this week though when I learned about the different kinds of pie crusts and why you'd want to choose one over the other depending on your fillings. It would take a few additional posts to cover the different kinds of pie doughs available to you. If you're interested in reading more, I'd check out: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Pastry-Bible-Rose-Levy-Beranbaum/dp/0684813483\">The Pie and Pastry Bible \u003c/a>by Rose Levy Beranbaum or \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Joy-Cooking-About-Pies-Tarts/dp/074322518X\">Joy of Cooking: All About Pies and Tarts \u003c/a>by Irma Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker. But for now, know that there are flaky and mealy crusts. The basic recipe is the same (a nice butter crust or a butter and lard crust), but a mealy dough is good for cream pies and wet fillings because you're incorporating the butter into the dough more (smaller chunks) thereby creating a coarse almost cornmeal like crust and a tighter dough. A flaky butter crust with large chunks of butter will always absorb more moisture making it much less ideal for cream pies and other wet fillings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/cookies.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/cookies.jpg\" alt=\"Meringues and Diamond Cookies\" title=\"Meringues and Diamond Cookies\" width=\"500\" height=\"295\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17672\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Meringues and Diamond Cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7. How Do I Make My Cookie ____ ?\u003c/strong> So you like your chocolate chip cookie crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside? Or maybe you like a tender, cakey cookie? How do you look at a recipe and alter it to fit your needs? A few good pointers: if you like a crispy cookie, you're looking for a recipe with low moisture and high fat and sugar. If you're looking for more of a soft cookie, the recipe will be lower in sugar and fat with a high moisture content. And if you're a chewy cookie fan, your recipe will call for more moisture and sugar and less fat. It'll also call for a stronger flour with more protein (like bread flour). What does this mean for the home baker? Experiment. If you want a chewy cookie and you're using the typical\u003ca href=\"http://allrecipes.com//Recipe/original-nestle-toll-house-chocolate-chip-cookies/Detail.aspx\"> Toll House Recipe\u003c/a>, try bread flour instead and use a bit more sugar. Take notes and compare. With the right information, you can have more control over your recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>8. Freezing and Storing:\u003c/strong> A good rule of thumb on this is to think about the moisture in your product. If there's a lot of moisture in something you've made (custards, lemon bars etc.), you generally want to avoid freezing after baking. Something with low moisture and high fat like a cookie is o.k. to freeze whereas a product with high moisture and lower fat like a soft, crumbly muffin really isn't great to freeze once baked. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>9. All About Chilling: \u003c/strong>Have you noticed lately that many cookie recipes ask you to chill your dough in the freezer before baking? What's going on here? The most likely answer is that chilling decreases the probability that your cookies will spread when baked. Another possbility is one the New York Times stands behind with their infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/091crex.html\">Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe\u003c/a>: that dough tends to develop flavors when allowed to overnight, resulting in a richer, more buttery/toffee-like dough. Try it. You decide. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>10. A Few Tips for Working with Chocolate:\u003c/strong> People spend years studying chocolate and confections, but for the purposes of home baking and simple pastry production, there are a few good things to know. First, when you're melting chocolate in a double boiler, you always want to cover the bowl that the chocolate's in. The second moisture hits the chocolate mixture, you're going to run the risk of grainy chocolate. Second, don't overheat your mixture. This, too, will create lumps. Last, don't let your bowl actually touch the water. You want space in between the bowl and the water below--this is where steam is trapped and this is what's going to melt your chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Megan Gordon details her week at San Francisco Baking Institute and the Top Ten Things she Learned about Pastry Production. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1286850148,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1432},"headData":{"title":"A Week at The San Francisco Baking Institute | KQED","description":"Megan Gordon details her week at San Francisco Baking Institute and the Top Ten Things she Learned about Pastry Production. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"A Week at The San Francisco Baking Institute ","datePublished":"2010-10-12T14:00:50.000Z","dateModified":"2010-10-12T02:22:28.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"17668 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=17668","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/10/12/a-week-at-the-san-francisco-baking-institute/","disqusTitle":"A Week at The San Francisco Baking Institute ","path":"/bayareabites/17668/a-week-at-the-san-francisco-baking-institute","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Learning-.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Learning-.jpg\" alt=\"Learning at San Francisco Baking Institute\" title=\"Learning at San Francisco Baking Institute\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17669\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Exploring Ingredients Class at San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week was big for me. I took a week off from work, returned very few emails, and my dogs suffered a severe lack of exercise. Why? I spent all week baking eight hours a day at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbi.com/\">San Francisco Baking Institute\u003c/a>, brushing up on my skills and learning the \"how's\" and \"why's\" behind much of the baking I do at home (\u003cem>How exactly can I make this cookie chewier? Why add potato starch here? What effect does pastry flour have on this recipe?\u003c/em>). Each day I came home with boxes of treats to share with family, friends, and coworkers along with copious notes and a head spinning with information on technique and method. After spending the weekend debriefing, I thought I'd share the top ten things I learned from my one week in pastry school. Some of the tips here are relatively basic and fundamental, others are a bit more advanced. Each could certainly use its very own post. But sometimes broad coverage is nice--it's just enough to get you inspired to break out a muffin or cake recipe for the coming week. I'd love to hear any of your own baking tips/revelations, too! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Breakfast-Pastries.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/Breakfast-Pastries.jpg\" alt=\"Breakfast Pastries\" title=\"Breakfast Pastries\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17670\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making Breakfast Pasties: Day 2\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Mixing Methods:\u003c/strong> It's important to understand the different mixing methods when baking. And then to follow them. For example, when using the \"Creaming Method\" for cookies, you're really just creaming together the sugar and butter until combined. However, when making brownies, you need to integrate a lot of air into your batter when mixing your sugar and butter. This acts as your leavening agent (look at most brownie recipes and you'll notice a lack of chemical leaveners like baking soda or powder). So you'll need to mix on a higher speed for a longer period of time. If you're interested in reading more on mixing methods, \u003ca href=\"http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/how_to_bake.htm\">The Reluctant Gourmet\u003c/a> has done a nice post covering them in more detail. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. Pay Attention to Your Flours:\u003c/strong> People use all different kinds of flour in pastry production for a variety of reasons. Cake flour and pastry flour have the lowest amount of protein whereas bread flour and all-purpose flour have the highest. As a general rule, the higher the amount of protein, the more structure the dough will have (think of how many cakes are so light and fluffy while traditional breads are heartier). Once you become familiar with how the various flours change the outcome of your pastries and baked goods, you can begin adapting recipes to create different textures simply by swapping the flours.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\n3. All About Super-Fine Sugar:\u003c/strong> I generally use granulated sugar at home. However, this past week we worked solely with superfine sugar (unless the recipe called for powdered or liquid sugar) and I learned why: superfine sugar melts in moisture more quickly than regular granulated sugar, and is really preferable for fine textured baked goods. Try it--you may just notice a difference. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/desserts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/desserts.jpg\" alt=\"desserts\" title=\"desserts\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17671\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From Angel Food Cake to Madelines: A Few of the Desserts\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\n4. Temperature Matters:\u003c/strong> Much of what you're doing when mixing various batters is creating a smooth emulsion. We've all made a recipe where the batter turned out a little too chunky or broken looking, haven't we? There are many reasons why this might happen, but the main one is that the ingredients aren't the proper temperature. If you don't have time to bring your eggs up to room temperature, mix them together in a small bowl and microwave them for 20-30 seconds until warm. And for many recipes (not including pie dough, obviously) you want your butter softened but not oily or completely melted. Pay attention to the temperature of your ingredients and you'll have smooth, silky dough more often than not.\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\n5. Take it Slow:\u003c/strong> Ah, cakes...a relative cousin to the cookie but with much more moisture. Because of this increased moisture, you'll notice most recipes ask that you alternate between dry and wet ingredients when combining the two together. You don't want to break the emulsion (or bind) between the butter and the eggs or your batter will start to look broken or separated. Slow down. Take your time. If a recipe asks that you alternate between the wet and the dry, there's a reason for that: don't dump your ingredients in all at once. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. All About Pie Dough:\u003c/strong> I love making pies and quietly judge people who don't make their own crust. It's just so basic and tastes so much better than boxed pie crust. I was humbled this week though when I learned about the different kinds of pie crusts and why you'd want to choose one over the other depending on your fillings. It would take a few additional posts to cover the different kinds of pie doughs available to you. If you're interested in reading more, I'd check out: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Pastry-Bible-Rose-Levy-Beranbaum/dp/0684813483\">The Pie and Pastry Bible \u003c/a>by Rose Levy Beranbaum or \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Joy-Cooking-About-Pies-Tarts/dp/074322518X\">Joy of Cooking: All About Pies and Tarts \u003c/a>by Irma Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker. But for now, know that there are flaky and mealy crusts. The basic recipe is the same (a nice butter crust or a butter and lard crust), but a mealy dough is good for cream pies and wet fillings because you're incorporating the butter into the dough more (smaller chunks) thereby creating a coarse almost cornmeal like crust and a tighter dough. A flaky butter crust with large chunks of butter will always absorb more moisture making it much less ideal for cream pies and other wet fillings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/cookies.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/10/cookies.jpg\" alt=\"Meringues and Diamond Cookies\" title=\"Meringues and Diamond Cookies\" width=\"500\" height=\"295\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17672\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Meringues and Diamond Cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7. How Do I Make My Cookie ____ ?\u003c/strong> So you like your chocolate chip cookie crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside? Or maybe you like a tender, cakey cookie? How do you look at a recipe and alter it to fit your needs? A few good pointers: if you like a crispy cookie, you're looking for a recipe with low moisture and high fat and sugar. If you're looking for more of a soft cookie, the recipe will be lower in sugar and fat with a high moisture content. And if you're a chewy cookie fan, your recipe will call for more moisture and sugar and less fat. It'll also call for a stronger flour with more protein (like bread flour). What does this mean for the home baker? Experiment. If you want a chewy cookie and you're using the typical\u003ca href=\"http://allrecipes.com//Recipe/original-nestle-toll-house-chocolate-chip-cookies/Detail.aspx\"> Toll House Recipe\u003c/a>, try bread flour instead and use a bit more sugar. Take notes and compare. With the right information, you can have more control over your recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>8. Freezing and Storing:\u003c/strong> A good rule of thumb on this is to think about the moisture in your product. If there's a lot of moisture in something you've made (custards, lemon bars etc.), you generally want to avoid freezing after baking. Something with low moisture and high fat like a cookie is o.k. to freeze whereas a product with high moisture and lower fat like a soft, crumbly muffin really isn't great to freeze once baked. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>9. All About Chilling: \u003c/strong>Have you noticed lately that many cookie recipes ask you to chill your dough in the freezer before baking? What's going on here? The most likely answer is that chilling decreases the probability that your cookies will spread when baked. Another possbility is one the New York Times stands behind with their infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/091crex.html\">Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe\u003c/a>: that dough tends to develop flavors when allowed to overnight, resulting in a richer, more buttery/toffee-like dough. Try it. You decide. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>10. A Few Tips for Working with Chocolate:\u003c/strong> People spend years studying chocolate and confections, but for the purposes of home baking and simple pastry production, there are a few good things to know. First, when you're melting chocolate in a double boiler, you always want to cover the bowl that the chocolate's in. The second moisture hits the chocolate mixture, you're going to run the risk of grainy chocolate. Second, don't overheat your mixture. This, too, will create lumps. Last, don't let your bowl actually touch the water. You want space in between the bowl and the water below--this is where steam is trapped and this is what's going to melt your chocolate. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/17668/a-week-at-the-san-francisco-baking-institute","authors":["5072"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_64"],"tags":["bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_147","bayareabites_2263","bayareabites_833","bayareabites_3015","bayareabites_2594","bayareabites_8442"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. 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Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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