My favorite part of the Easter holiday, besides watching my young daughter scampering around Holly Park with hordes of other Bernal Heights kids searching for eggs, is Easter dinner. For me, Easter is a time to celebrate spring and re-birth and new growth, and all the yummy fresh new foods available after a winter of heavy root vegetables and greens.
At the center of my fantasy Easter dinner table (which always includes biscuits, some kind of asparagus dish, and scalloped potatoes), is a beautiful bone-in ham. Now, I say “fantasy” dinner because an entire ham doesn’t make sense unless I really have a crowd to feed, and most years, it’s just my immediate family or a few friends. But every so often, we do it up, invite loads of people and serve this magnificent piece of meat.
When we decided to make it this year, I went in search of my perfect ham (not an easy feat unless it’s around one of the ham-centric holidays, such as Easter). After calling around to a number of local places, I came to Chef Guy Sidey, chef of Bi-Rite Market in the Mission. Unbeknownst to me, Bi-Rite breaks down a whole hog every week and uses one of the whole legs to make their own in-house ham. They brine it for 6 days, let it dry for 1 day, then slow-smoke it over a mixture of apple, cherry, almond, and hickory wood. Then, typically, they serve it for their family-style dinners in the deli.
Well, this was one week that I got incredibly lucky. Chef Guy just so happened to have a ham available and was willing to sell me a whole ham. (In fact, around the holidays they do a few hams per week, so if you are lucky, and persistent, and call in advance, you too can get in on their ham action.)
Wherever you get your ham, make sure to purchase a fully cooked, smoked, uncut, unglazed bone-in ham (read: not spiral cut and certainly not honey-glazed unless that’s what you really like in which case you don’t need my recipe).
Choose a whole ham, which will weigh around 17–20 pounds or choose a smaller half ham, which should weigh around 9–11 pounds. If you go for the half ham, choose one from the shank end rather than the butt end, as it will be easier to slice and will contain less gristle.




