Cook by the Book: Artisanal Cooking

According to Terrance Brennan "artisanal" means made with passion, pride, enthusiasm, care and attention to detail. In a nutshell, this is his approach to cooking. In Artisanal Cooking Brennan shares recipes for his signature dishes and in the process you get to know the chef. Brennan spent time in the kitchens of Roger Verge's Le Moulin de Mougins, Taillevent, Le Tour d'Argent, and La Gavroche, not surprisingly his recipes and sensibilities are mostly French in origin with tastes of Mediterranean and US thrown in for good measure.

While I've never eaten at any of Terrance Brennan's restaurants, I have a feeling I would find plenty to please me on the menus. Chestnut spaetzle, wild salmon with horseradish crust, rabbit au Riesling with rutabaga "sauerkraut" would all tempt me greatly. Fortunately his cookbook Artisanal Cooking takes on these dishes and they are easier to accomplish than you might think. Most recipes have less than ten ingredients altogether and techniques which a confident home cook can easily manage.

In addition, the book is filled with little treasures in the form of marmalades, chutneys, flavored oils, flavored salts---recipes which can add a lot of flair to your standard repertoire. His section on cheeses and how to serve them is terrific.

My only criticism is that after reading through Terrance Brennan's Artisanal Cooking I'm still not completely sure I know what's meant by that term. When Brennan says "When seeking a butter, take an artisanal attitude and select a distinctive, creamery butter with a fat content of 80% or higher" I have to admit, I get a little confused. An artisanal attitude towards butter? But regardless it's a terrific book with lots of home cook friendly recipes to savor.

Stilton and Port Fondue
Serves 6

1 cup port
1/4 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons cream cheese, at room temperature
12 ounces Stilton, crumbled (about 1 2/3 cups crumbled) at room temperature
kosher salt

In a medium bowl, combine the port and cornstarch, mixing well to dissolve the cornstarch. Pour the mixture into a fondue pot or heavy-bottomed, 2-quart, stainless steel saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

Once the liquid has come to a boil slowly, add the cream cheese, whisking continuously. Make sure each addition is completely melted and incorporated before the next addition. Then add the Stilton. Once all of the cheese has been added, cook over medium heat for one more minute.

Season with salt to taste. Remove from heat and serve.

The Reason Cream cheese is added to Stilton Stilton is a very fatty cheese, which means it separates more easily than other cheeses. The cream cheese helps stabilize the Stilton, preventing separation.

Embellishments Serve with cubed bread, Walnut bread is best, but any crusty bead will work well. Stilton Fondue may also be served with boiled fingerling potatoes, sauteed beef tips, pickled vegetables, air-dried beef, or cubed pears.

Reprinted by permission from Artisanal Cooking: A Chef Shares His Passion for Handcrafting Great Meals at Home, by Terrance Brennan and Andrew Friedman. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Copyright ©2005 by Terrance Brennan and Andrew Friedman. All rights reserved.