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"content": "\u003cp>Stroll through the Stonestown \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/farmers-market\">Farmers Market\u003c/a> on a sunny spring morning, and you might spot a stall smothered in chocolate. Behold, an array of bars, bonbons, chocolate caramels, dipped figs and — a particular treat for this time of year — a matching pair of remarkably detailed chocolate bunnies. The male bunny sports a waistcoat and walking stick; the female bunny swishes her skirt and carries a parasol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’re in their Easter Sunday best,” says the maker, David Upchurch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upchurch was originally an architect before he fell in love with pastry in Paris and career-changed into chocolate. During the recession, starting in 2009, he trained at City College of San Francisco and San Francisco Baking Institute. For the next five years, he worked at Recchiuti Confections, the craft chocolate tastemaker with a reputation for pulling fresh flavors from the farmers market. Upchurch started his own super-small-batch business during lockdown in 2020. Today, he shares a tiny production kitchen in SoMa while applying for a cottage license to work out of his home in Noe Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974476\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974476\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A man in pink shirt and glasses shows chocolates to a small boy at his farmers market stand.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upchurch, right, shows Lorenzo Paniagua, age 6, different types of chocolate at his farmers market stand. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He found the first male bunny while online shopping. As one does, Upchurch was doing a deep dive on eBay, shopping for antique chocolate molds. He scrolled across a dealer based in Brussels, who had a wide selection of molds from the early 20th century. He ordered a dozen, and the one of a male rabbit quickly became a favorite. It was made by Anton Reiche in Dresden, Germany, around 1920, Upchurch believes, according to its catalog number. “He’s extremely dapper,” Upchurch says. Many molds are designed to be perfectly symmetrical, but this rabbit has movement. “For lack of a better reference, he’s posed like a Neoclassical figure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He found the exact mate while browsing \u003ca href=\"https://omnivorebooks.myshopify.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>. Like any good resident of Noe Valley, Upchurch likes chatting with bookmonger Celia Sack, owner of the only cookbook shop in San Francisco, which also carries vintage menus and assorted antiques. When he spotted the female bunny on her website, he scurried over. “It was total kismet,” Upchurch says. They’re a matching pair, from the exact same maker and time period. If anything, the female bunny was in even better shape. “She aged more gracefully.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974477\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974477\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A man smiles at the elaborate chocolate bunny that he holds in the palm of his hand.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upchurch gazes lovingly at one of the chocolate bunnies he says reminds him of Mary Poppins. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upchurch affectionately calls his rabbits Bert and Mary, after the chimney sweep and nanny in \u003cem>Mary Poppins\u003c/em>. Let’s call it loose inspiration because of course we’re hopping countries and years a smidge: \u003cem>Mary Poppins\u003c/em> is set in London in 1910 during the Edwardian era — King Edward ruled from 1901 to 1910, and the era continued until 1914. So technically these molds were made just after, but the bunnies do wear old-fashioned clothes. “The lady bunny reminds me of Mary Poppins with her flowing skirt, parasol and boots,” Upchurch says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may buy one of these bunnies in either milk or dark chocolate. Upchurch has a passion for sourcing more interesting and nuanced chocolate from \u003ca href=\"https://www.conexionchocolate.com/\">Conexión\u003c/a> in Ecuador, instead of the ubiquitous Valrhona from France or Callebaut from Belgium. The milk chocolate is 40 percent cacao, with a pretty caramel color and flavor, and rich mouthfeel thanks to milk from grass-fed cows in the Andes. The dark chocolate is 64 percent cacao, with light bitterness and nutty and citrusy notes of pecan and lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974641\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974641\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed.jpg\" alt='A display of chocolate Easter bunnies wrapped in plastic. A chalkboard sign reads, \"Bunnies for Easter. Antique molds.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upchurch’s farmers market stand, where he sells his Edwardian-style chocolate bunnies during Easter season.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13939223,arts_13956809,arts_13925984']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The molds are made of tin, and it’s tricky working with antiques. Upchurch tempers the chocolate and starts brushing each mold by hand to hit every nook and cranny. He pours in a light layer, clamps the halves shut and turns to coat. Then he pours in a thick layer, lets the chocolate set for several minutes and turns out the excess, ultimately leaving a sturdy shell to set for several hours. The molds aren’t symmetrical, and they don’t always want to close tidily. Does it get messy? Of course. Upchurch has also invested in new plastic molds, available in the same pattern. They don’t have the same depth of detail, but they’re so much faster and easier to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He only makes a few dozen bunnies every year, so catch them if you can. Upchurch sells at the Stonestown Farmers Market on Sundays and Marin Farmers Market on Thursdays, as well as through a couple of shops like \u003ca href=\"https://www.chocolatecoveredsf.com\">Chocolate Covered\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/collagesf/\">Collage Gallery\u003c/a>. The rabbits are priced at $29 each, and yes of course, that’s more than your everyday drugstore bunny. Consider the quality and freshness of the chocolate, responsibly sourced from a farming cooperative and all shaped by hand. They stand about 7 inches tall and 3 inches around, so you’re holding between 5 to 7 ounces of good chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974478\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1333px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974478\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"An ornate chocolate bunny held in front of a colorful spring bouquet.\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED.jpg 1333w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A close-up of “Mary,” who stands about 7 inches tall. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the bunnies surely sell out, do not despair. Upchurch has a few other Easter treats, including smash eggs, caramel eggs and peanut butter bunny bars. Of course, there are also many talented confectioners in the Bay Area, happy to help fill baskets — \u003ca href=\"https://www.dandelionchocolate.com/products/easter-egg\">Dandelion\u003c/a> has marshmallow eggs, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.recchiuti.com/products/easter-eggs\">Recchiuti\u003c/a> offers ganache eggs, along with \u003ca href=\"https://www.elbowchocolates.com/easter-8-piece-chocolates.html\">Christopher Elbow\u003c/a>’s spaceship bunnies, \u003ca href=\"https://www.socolachocolates.com/collections/all/products/easter-egg-hunt-bars\">Socola\u003c/a>’s egg hunt bars, \u003ca href=\"https://www.formosachocolates.com/products/spring-2025-bonbon-collection\">Formosa\u003c/a>’s bonbon chicks and many more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet there’s something so enchanting about an early 20th century chocolate bunny, hopping between our elegant Edwardian homes painted in pastel colors in misty San Francisco. “Oh absolutely,” Upchurch agrees. “They’re very much at home here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>David Upchurch Chocolatier sells at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/stonestown\">\u003ci>Stonestown Farmers Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Francisco on Sundays from 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/thursday-marin\">\u003ci>Marin Farmers Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Rafael on Thursdays from 8 a.m.–1 p.m. A limited number of chocolate bunnies are available until sold out.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"headline": "Have You Spotted These Edwardian Chocolate Bunnies in San Francisco?",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Stroll through the Stonestown \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/farmers-market\">Farmers Market\u003c/a> on a sunny spring morning, and you might spot a stall smothered in chocolate. Behold, an array of bars, bonbons, chocolate caramels, dipped figs and — a particular treat for this time of year — a matching pair of remarkably detailed chocolate bunnies. The male bunny sports a waistcoat and walking stick; the female bunny swishes her skirt and carries a parasol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’re in their Easter Sunday best,” says the maker, David Upchurch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Upchurch was originally an architect before he fell in love with pastry in Paris and career-changed into chocolate. During the recession, starting in 2009, he trained at City College of San Francisco and San Francisco Baking Institute. For the next five years, he worked at Recchiuti Confections, the craft chocolate tastemaker with a reputation for pulling fresh flavors from the farmers market. Upchurch started his own super-small-batch business during lockdown in 2020. Today, he shares a tiny production kitchen in SoMa while applying for a cottage license to work out of his home in Noe Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974476\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974476\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A man in pink shirt and glasses shows chocolates to a small boy at his farmers market stand.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-7-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upchurch, right, shows Lorenzo Paniagua, age 6, different types of chocolate at his farmers market stand. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He found the first male bunny while online shopping. As one does, Upchurch was doing a deep dive on eBay, shopping for antique chocolate molds. He scrolled across a dealer based in Brussels, who had a wide selection of molds from the early 20th century. He ordered a dozen, and the one of a male rabbit quickly became a favorite. It was made by Anton Reiche in Dresden, Germany, around 1920, Upchurch believes, according to its catalog number. “He’s extremely dapper,” Upchurch says. Many molds are designed to be perfectly symmetrical, but this rabbit has movement. “For lack of a better reference, he’s posed like a Neoclassical figure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He found the exact mate while browsing \u003ca href=\"https://omnivorebooks.myshopify.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>. Like any good resident of Noe Valley, Upchurch likes chatting with bookmonger Celia Sack, owner of the only cookbook shop in San Francisco, which also carries vintage menus and assorted antiques. When he spotted the female bunny on her website, he scurried over. “It was total kismet,” Upchurch says. They’re a matching pair, from the exact same maker and time period. If anything, the female bunny was in even better shape. “She aged more gracefully.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974477\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974477\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A man smiles at the elaborate chocolate bunny that he holds in the palm of his hand.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-13-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upchurch gazes lovingly at one of the chocolate bunnies he says reminds him of Mary Poppins. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upchurch affectionately calls his rabbits Bert and Mary, after the chimney sweep and nanny in \u003cem>Mary Poppins\u003c/em>. Let’s call it loose inspiration because of course we’re hopping countries and years a smidge: \u003cem>Mary Poppins\u003c/em> is set in London in 1910 during the Edwardian era — King Edward ruled from 1901 to 1910, and the era continued until 1914. So technically these molds were made just after, but the bunnies do wear old-fashioned clothes. “The lady bunny reminds me of Mary Poppins with her flowing skirt, parasol and boots,” Upchurch says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may buy one of these bunnies in either milk or dark chocolate. Upchurch has a passion for sourcing more interesting and nuanced chocolate from \u003ca href=\"https://www.conexionchocolate.com/\">Conexión\u003c/a> in Ecuador, instead of the ubiquitous Valrhona from France or Callebaut from Belgium. The milk chocolate is 40 percent cacao, with a pretty caramel color and flavor, and rich mouthfeel thanks to milk from grass-fed cows in the Andes. The dark chocolate is 64 percent cacao, with light bitterness and nutty and citrusy notes of pecan and lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974641\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974641\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed.jpg\" alt='A display of chocolate Easter bunnies wrapped in plastic. A chalkboard sign reads, \"Bunnies for Easter. Antique molds.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EdwardianChocolateBunnies_GC-25_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upchurch’s farmers market stand, where he sells his Edwardian-style chocolate bunnies during Easter season.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The molds are made of tin, and it’s tricky working with antiques. Upchurch tempers the chocolate and starts brushing each mold by hand to hit every nook and cranny. He pours in a light layer, clamps the halves shut and turns to coat. Then he pours in a thick layer, lets the chocolate set for several minutes and turns out the excess, ultimately leaving a sturdy shell to set for several hours. The molds aren’t symmetrical, and they don’t always want to close tidily. Does it get messy? Of course. Upchurch has also invested in new plastic molds, available in the same pattern. They don’t have the same depth of detail, but they’re so much faster and easier to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He only makes a few dozen bunnies every year, so catch them if you can. Upchurch sells at the Stonestown Farmers Market on Sundays and Marin Farmers Market on Thursdays, as well as through a couple of shops like \u003ca href=\"https://www.chocolatecoveredsf.com\">Chocolate Covered\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/collagesf/\">Collage Gallery\u003c/a>. The rabbits are priced at $29 each, and yes of course, that’s more than your everyday drugstore bunny. Consider the quality and freshness of the chocolate, responsibly sourced from a farming cooperative and all shaped by hand. They stand about 7 inches tall and 3 inches around, so you’re holding between 5 to 7 ounces of good chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974478\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1333px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974478\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"An ornate chocolate bunny held in front of a colorful spring bouquet.\" width=\"1333\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED.jpg 1333w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/20250410_EDWARDIANCHOCOLATEBUNNIES_GC-17-KQED-1024x1536.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1333px) 100vw, 1333px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A close-up of “Mary,” who stands about 7 inches tall. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the bunnies surely sell out, do not despair. Upchurch has a few other Easter treats, including smash eggs, caramel eggs and peanut butter bunny bars. Of course, there are also many talented confectioners in the Bay Area, happy to help fill baskets — \u003ca href=\"https://www.dandelionchocolate.com/products/easter-egg\">Dandelion\u003c/a> has marshmallow eggs, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.recchiuti.com/products/easter-eggs\">Recchiuti\u003c/a> offers ganache eggs, along with \u003ca href=\"https://www.elbowchocolates.com/easter-8-piece-chocolates.html\">Christopher Elbow\u003c/a>’s spaceship bunnies, \u003ca href=\"https://www.socolachocolates.com/collections/all/products/easter-egg-hunt-bars\">Socola\u003c/a>’s egg hunt bars, \u003ca href=\"https://www.formosachocolates.com/products/spring-2025-bonbon-collection\">Formosa\u003c/a>’s bonbon chicks and many more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet there’s something so enchanting about an early 20th century chocolate bunny, hopping between our elegant Edwardian homes painted in pastel colors in misty San Francisco. “Oh absolutely,” Upchurch agrees. “They’re very much at home here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>David Upchurch Chocolatier sells at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/stonestown\">\u003ci>Stonestown Farmers Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Francisco on Sundays from 9 a.m.–1 p.m. and at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/thursday-marin\">\u003ci>Marin Farmers Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> in San Rafael on Thursdays from 8 a.m.–1 p.m. A limited number of chocolate bunnies are available until sold out.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "joe-matos-cheese-factory-santa-rosa-closing",
"title": "Joe Matos Cheese Factory to Close After 45 Years in Santa Rosa",
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"headTitle": "Joe Matos Cheese Factory to Close After 45 Years in Santa Rosa | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>I can never forget first discovering the \u003ca href=\"https://joematoscheeseco.com/\">Joe Matos Cheese Factory\u003c/a>, 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On my weekend rounds in west Santa Rosa, between visits to Imwalle Gardens, Willie Bird’s Deli and the Pasta King, I’d turn onto a long country road that eventually became gravel and mud. Past the chickens and cows, and inside a shack behind the farmhouse, was a tiny sales counter surrounded by a “Cash Only” sign, a decades-old calendar and an even older tape dispenser. A quiet Portuguese woman would appear from the back, offering a sample.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sale was only one variety of cheese, called St. Jorge. But it was such incredible cheese, made from an old Portuguese family recipe, that it kept me coming back time and time again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971028\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971028\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shelves at the Joe Matos Cheese Factory in Santa Rosa hold the last wheels of St. Jorge cheese on Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, the humble Joe Matos Cheese Factory is closing. After 45 years in business, its final day is Friday, Jan. 31. It marks the end for one of the region’s oldest handmade cheese producers, and a quintessential hidden gem on the region’s backroads, representing a different, more agricultural Sonoma County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sylvia Tucker runs the cheese farm. She knows the closure is hard for the many fans of St. Jorge cheese, which has been passed down through six generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve been having so many wonderful people come out,” Tucker tells me on a recent morning. “They all understand. They’re just sad to see us go. I’m sad to see us go, but Dad’s the most important thing right now.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971029\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971029\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Joe Matos Cheese Factory in West Santa Rosa was founded in 1979 by Joe and Mary Matos, who brought along an old family recipe when they immigrated from the Azores in Portugal in the 1960s. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Dad” is Joe Matos, the factory’s namesake, who along with his wife Mary immigrated from the Portuguese island of St. Jorge, in the Azores, in the 1960s. The couple started the cheese factory in 1979; Joe tended the cows while Mary pressed the cheese with a large brick attached to a two-by-four. Now 84 and in ailing health, Joe Matos requires Tucker’s around-the-clock care — a primary reason for the factory’s closure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adding to the decision is an increase in workers’ compensation premiums — Tucker refers to a “bogus” claim, disputed for two years, that caused monthly rates to triple and the operation to be helmed solely by Tucker and her daughter, Heather. Other cost factors include the shuttering in December of a local fermentation plant that supplied leftover cabbage as feed for the Matos cows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_139616']Tucker herself has been making St. Jorge cheese for 20 years — the same timespan that I’ve prized its complex flavors. Tangy, buttery and nutty, with hints of citrus, it pairs exceptionally well with fruit. I personally spent a year trying to find the best way to use it on homemade pizza, and landed on toppings of St. Jorge, pears, kale, and beets. Pure perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In anticipation of the closure, local restaurants like Handline in Sebastopol and wineries like Kendall-Jackson and Castello di Amarosa have stocked up on the cheese, offered in ages of 3, 6, 9 or 16 months, Tucker says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971030\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1119px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971030\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1119\" height=\"1119\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose.jpg 1119w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1119px) 100vw, 1119px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joe Matos Cheese Factory’s St. Jorge cheese was offered in four different ages: 3, 6, 9 and 16 months. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Joe Matos Cheese Factory)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During my visit, Kathy Tresch, a dairy farmer based in Two Rock, is among the many fans waiting in line at the sales shack to buy their last wheel or wedge. Tresch herself has bought cheese at Joe Matos for 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s sad because this has always been my favorite cheese,” Tresch says, remarking on its hard-to-describe flavor. “It goes with anything. You can melt it, you can cook with it, you can have it with wine. You can have it with fruit and nuts and grapes, or even just plain. Any way you have it, it’s great.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also the experience of driving out to the farm, with its chickens, cows, dogs, cats and geese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve had a lot of people tell us that coming here is like going back in time,” Tucker says, “because we still do everything just the way dad and his family did it back in the Azores in St. George.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971031\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971031\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sylvia Tucker represents the sixth generation of cheesemakers at the farmstead in West Santa Rosa. Her daughter, Heather, would be the seventh. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Those old methods may be losing ground in Sonoma County. The Sebastopol cheese producer \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/north-bay/bohemian-creamery-sebastopol/\">Bohemian Creamery closed\u003c/a> in late 2024 after 14 years in operation. As far as agricultural interests go, Tucker says, “I don’t think we’ve seen the worst yet. I think I think it’s going to get worse before it gets better again.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Joe Matos’ closure comes during a precipitous time for local food production in Sonoma County. The century-old Manzana, the county’s last working apple processing plant, is \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/article/manzana-sonoma-apple-plant-delay/?ref=related\">slowly closing its historic facility\u003c/a> in Graton. The 48-year-old La Tortilla Factory \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/article/la-tortilla-factorys-santa-rosa-plant-to-close-as-production-shifts-to-kan/?ref=related\">shut down its Santa Rosa plant\u003c/a> last year. Amy’s Kitchen in Petaluma \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/industrynews/amys-kitchen-layoffs-reorganization/?ref=related\">laid off over 300 workers\u003c/a> in October. And Wildbrine, which supplied the Joe Matos Cheese factory with its leftover cabbage to use as feed, \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/industrynews/sonoma-food-manufacturing-wildbrine-amys/\">closed its Santa Rosa plant\u003c/a> last month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='news_12018517']Even my own weekend rounds look different these days. A section of \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/news/santa-rosas-imwalle-gardens-a-farm-in-the-middle-of-the-city/\">Imwalle Gardens\u003c/a>’ farmland is now tract houses. Willie Bird’s Deli \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/news/end-of-an-era-willie-bird-turkey-store-deli-closing/\">closed\u003c/a>. The Pasta King still sells ravioli and lasagna on the honor system at the family kitchen on Stony Point Road, but \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/139616/the-pasta-king-trusted-us-on-our-honor\">Art Ibleto, the Pasta King himself, died in 2020\u003c/a>, and his summertime Spaghetti Palace at the fairgrounds has been torn down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Sonoma County still has plenty of farmers and small food producers. But as I drive back on the bumpy dirt road with my wedge of St. Jorge cheese one last time, I quietly say goodbye to one of its most special, and wonder: Do we have the will to keep supporting them?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I can never forget first discovering the \u003ca href=\"https://joematoscheeseco.com/\">Joe Matos Cheese Factory\u003c/a>, 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On my weekend rounds in west Santa Rosa, between visits to Imwalle Gardens, Willie Bird’s Deli and the Pasta King, I’d turn onto a long country road that eventually became gravel and mud. Past the chickens and cows, and inside a shack behind the farmhouse, was a tiny sales counter surrounded by a “Cash Only” sign, a decades-old calendar and an even older tape dispenser. A quiet Portuguese woman would appear from the back, offering a sample.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sale was only one variety of cheese, called St. Jorge. But it was such incredible cheese, made from an old Portuguese family recipe, that it kept me coming back time and time again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971028\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971028\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2427-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shelves at the Joe Matos Cheese Factory in Santa Rosa hold the last wheels of St. Jorge cheese on Wednesday, Jan. 29, 2025. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, the humble Joe Matos Cheese Factory is closing. After 45 years in business, its final day is Friday, Jan. 31. It marks the end for one of the region’s oldest handmade cheese producers, and a quintessential hidden gem on the region’s backroads, representing a different, more agricultural Sonoma County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sylvia Tucker runs the cheese farm. She knows the closure is hard for the many fans of St. Jorge cheese, which has been passed down through six generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve been having so many wonderful people come out,” Tucker tells me on a recent morning. “They all understand. They’re just sad to see us go. I’m sad to see us go, but Dad’s the most important thing right now.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971029\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971029\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2453-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Joe Matos Cheese Factory in West Santa Rosa was founded in 1979 by Joe and Mary Matos, who brought along an old family recipe when they immigrated from the Azores in Portugal in the 1960s. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Dad” is Joe Matos, the factory’s namesake, who along with his wife Mary immigrated from the Portuguese island of St. Jorge, in the Azores, in the 1960s. The couple started the cheese factory in 1979; Joe tended the cows while Mary pressed the cheese with a large brick attached to a two-by-four. Now 84 and in ailing health, Joe Matos requires Tucker’s around-the-clock care — a primary reason for the factory’s closure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adding to the decision is an increase in workers’ compensation premiums — Tucker refers to a “bogus” claim, disputed for two years, that caused monthly rates to triple and the operation to be helmed solely by Tucker and her daughter, Heather. Other cost factors include the shuttering in December of a local fermentation plant that supplied leftover cabbage as feed for the Matos cows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Tucker herself has been making St. Jorge cheese for 20 years — the same timespan that I’ve prized its complex flavors. Tangy, buttery and nutty, with hints of citrus, it pairs exceptionally well with fruit. I personally spent a year trying to find the best way to use it on homemade pizza, and landed on toppings of St. Jorge, pears, kale, and beets. Pure perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In anticipation of the closure, local restaurants like Handline in Sebastopol and wineries like Kendall-Jackson and Castello di Amarosa have stocked up on the cheese, offered in ages of 3, 6, 9 or 16 months, Tucker says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971030\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1119px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971030\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1119\" height=\"1119\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose.jpg 1119w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Matos.Cheese.upclose-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1119px) 100vw, 1119px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joe Matos Cheese Factory’s St. Jorge cheese was offered in four different ages: 3, 6, 9 and 16 months. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Joe Matos Cheese Factory)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During my visit, Kathy Tresch, a dairy farmer based in Two Rock, is among the many fans waiting in line at the sales shack to buy their last wheel or wedge. Tresch herself has bought cheese at Joe Matos for 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s sad because this has always been my favorite cheese,” Tresch says, remarking on its hard-to-describe flavor. “It goes with anything. You can melt it, you can cook with it, you can have it with wine. You can have it with fruit and nuts and grapes, or even just plain. Any way you have it, it’s great.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s also the experience of driving out to the farm, with its chickens, cows, dogs, cats and geese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve had a lot of people tell us that coming here is like going back in time,” Tucker says, “because we still do everything just the way dad and his family did it back in the Azores in St. George.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13971031\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13971031\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/IMG_2412-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sylvia Tucker represents the sixth generation of cheesemakers at the farmstead in West Santa Rosa. Her daughter, Heather, would be the seventh. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Those old methods may be losing ground in Sonoma County. The Sebastopol cheese producer \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/north-bay/bohemian-creamery-sebastopol/\">Bohemian Creamery closed\u003c/a> in late 2024 after 14 years in operation. As far as agricultural interests go, Tucker says, “I don’t think we’ve seen the worst yet. I think I think it’s going to get worse before it gets better again.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Joe Matos’ closure comes during a precipitous time for local food production in Sonoma County. The century-old Manzana, the county’s last working apple processing plant, is \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/article/manzana-sonoma-apple-plant-delay/?ref=related\">slowly closing its historic facility\u003c/a> in Graton. The 48-year-old La Tortilla Factory \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/article/la-tortilla-factorys-santa-rosa-plant-to-close-as-production-shifts-to-kan/?ref=related\">shut down its Santa Rosa plant\u003c/a> last year. Amy’s Kitchen in Petaluma \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/industrynews/amys-kitchen-layoffs-reorganization/?ref=related\">laid off over 300 workers\u003c/a> in October. And Wildbrine, which supplied the Joe Matos Cheese factory with its leftover cabbage to use as feed, \u003ca href=\"https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/article/industrynews/sonoma-food-manufacturing-wildbrine-amys/\">closed its Santa Rosa plant\u003c/a> last month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Even my own weekend rounds look different these days. A section of \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/news/santa-rosas-imwalle-gardens-a-farm-in-the-middle-of-the-city/\">Imwalle Gardens\u003c/a>’ farmland is now tract houses. Willie Bird’s Deli \u003ca href=\"https://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/news/end-of-an-era-willie-bird-turkey-store-deli-closing/\">closed\u003c/a>. The Pasta King still sells ravioli and lasagna on the honor system at the family kitchen on Stony Point Road, but \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/139616/the-pasta-king-trusted-us-on-our-honor\">Art Ibleto, the Pasta King himself, died in 2020\u003c/a>, and his summertime Spaghetti Palace at the fairgrounds has been torn down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Sonoma County still has plenty of farmers and small food producers. But as I drive back on the bumpy dirt road with my wedge of St. Jorge cheese one last time, I quietly say goodbye to one of its most special, and wonder: Do we have the will to keep supporting them?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "hijau-indonesian-coffee-pop-up-pandan-latte-san-jose",
"title": "An Indonesian Coffee Pop-up Brings Pandan Lattes to San Jose",
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"headTitle": "An Indonesian Coffee Pop-up Brings Pandan Lattes to San Jose | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>Indonesian coffee shops are sprouting up in the Bay Area, introducing local caffeine hounds to aromatic, uniquely tropical drinks. The newest addition to the scene is Hijau, a coffee pop-up in San Jose known for crafting lattes with flavors like pineapple, coconut, lemongrass and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>South Bay residents Lisa Maria and Ryan Prawiradjaja started Hijau in February of 2024. Maria was born and raised in Bekasi, the largest city in West Java, Indonesia, and immigrated to the United States 15 years ago for college. But when she was laid off from her job as a product manager at a tech startup last year, she decided to revisit an earlier dream. “I’ve always thought about starting a coffee shop,” Maria says. “My mom and dad were coffee roasters in the ’80s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her parents’ business supplied roasted coffee beans to local vendors in Bekasi. Maria was too young to enjoy the beverage at the time, but she remembers the aroma of coffee in her childhood home. Now, she and her husband are continuing the tradition by bringing the smell of freshly brewed coffee into the life of their newborn daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13969932\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13969932\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a latte with foam milk art, topped with a slice of roasted ginger.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inspired by a traditional Indonesian hot drink, Hijau’s wedang latte comes topped with a slice of torched ginger. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what exactly makes Hijau’s approach to coffee specifically Indonesian? For starters, some of the drinks are based on traditional Indonesian treats. As Maria puts it, “I think of coffee as my canvas to introduce Indonesian flavors.” Klepon, a pandan rice ball coated with shredded coconut and filled with molten palm sugar, inspired a latte made with pandan-infused palm sugar syrup, coconut milk and a coconut-flake garnish. Nastar, a bite-sized pineapple jam tart, gets reconstructed into a pineapple syrup–spiked latte humming with notes of clove and cinnamon. While the drinks are based on desserts, they’re not cloyingly sweet. Instead, they’re fine-tuned to allow the delicate flavors to shine through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For other drinks, Maria and Prawiradjaja drew inspiration from wedang, a category of hot drinks that can be made with peanuts, mung beans or ginger. Hijau’s wedang latte is made by infusing palm sugar syrup with torched ginger and lemongrass. It’s influenced by wedang jahe, a hot ginger drink popular in the highlands. Maria describes it as a seasonal alternative to a pumpkin spice latte. “We don’t even have that kind of coffee flavor in Indonesia,” says Maria. “So I can take inspiration from what is existing and introduce that flavor in coffee.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pandan, an aromatic leaf commonly used in Southeast Asian cooking, is a buzzy ingredient at cafes and pastry shops around the Bay, but Maria felt that many renditions weren’t living up to the herb’s potential. “I was underwhelmed by the flavor,” says Maria, “I couldn’t taste the fragrance. I really wanted to represent it well.” Her pandan latte is subtle, grassy and bright green — it’s Maria’s favorite creation and the shop’s most popular drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13969933\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13969933\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte.jpg\" alt=\"Iced coffee drink mixed with green-tinted milk.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An iced pandan latte — Hijau’s most popular drink. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, you won’t come across many bakeries offering freshly baked nastar or restaurants serving klepon for dessert. “Indonesia is the fourth most populous country in the world and the largest economy in Southeast Asia,” says Maria. “Why aren’t there more Indonesian establishments here?” In the past few years, a handful of Indonesian restaurants have opened up and gotten some buzz for their takes on classic dishes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908798/bakso-indonesian-street-food-noodle-soup-dgrobak-richmond\">bakso\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962220/fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda\">beef rendang\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963228,arts_13962220,arts_13929177']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>While Indonesia is one of the top coffee-producing countries in the world, its coffee is not as popular in the U.S. as the roasts coming from other, more well-known coffee regions (in South and Central America, for instance). Coffee beans from the Indonesian island of Sumatra have long been a staple at third-wave coffee shops, but until recently, there weren’t any cafes that used these beans exclusively or that specialized in Indonesian-inspired coffee drinks. So far there are only a couple other spots — most notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963228/indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek\">Kopi Bar\u003c/a> in Walnut Creek and Kopiku in San Francisco, which both source Indonesian coffee beans through Beaneka Coffee, a local roastery. Hijau doesn’t use Indonesian beans yet but plans to in the next phase of the business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maria believes part of the reason Indonesian cuisine is underrepresented in the Bay Area is due to the relatively recent arrival of that immigrant community. It wasn’t until the ’80s and ’90s that there was a large wave of Indonesian immigration to the States, she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of us put our roots down here,” says Maria. “More Indonesians are settling down in the U.S. and they want to keep the heritage and tastes of home here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13969934\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13969934\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a barista pour milk into a coffee drink.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A barista pours milk into one of Hijau’s Indonesian-inspired specialty coffee drinks. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She hopes that Hijau inspires more Indonesians to start their own businesses in the Bay Area. Her goal is to hook coffee lovers with Indonesian flavors before introducing them to the terroir of coffee beans from across Indonesia — specifically, those produced through giling basah (wet grinding), a process that originated in Indonesia that creates a distinct woody, earthy flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple plans to eventually open a brick-and-mortar coffee shop where they can continue to connect with the community. “It’s a bridge between my roots and future legacy,” says Maria. “I want our daughter to have her heritage represented when she grows up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wearehijau/\">\u003ci>Hijau\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at the San Jose Rose Garden farmers market (577 Dana Ave) every Saturday. They’ll have two more pop-ups this winter — on Jan. 4 and 11, from 9 a.m.–1 p.m. — before taking a break until March 15, For more information about future pop-ups, check out Hijau’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wearehijau/\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Indonesian coffee shops are sprouting up in the Bay Area, introducing local caffeine hounds to aromatic, uniquely tropical drinks. The newest addition to the scene is Hijau, a coffee pop-up in San Jose known for crafting lattes with flavors like pineapple, coconut, lemongrass and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>South Bay residents Lisa Maria and Ryan Prawiradjaja started Hijau in February of 2024. Maria was born and raised in Bekasi, the largest city in West Java, Indonesia, and immigrated to the United States 15 years ago for college. But when she was laid off from her job as a product manager at a tech startup last year, she decided to revisit an earlier dream. “I’ve always thought about starting a coffee shop,” Maria says. “My mom and dad were coffee roasters in the ’80s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her parents’ business supplied roasted coffee beans to local vendors in Bekasi. Maria was too young to enjoy the beverage at the time, but she remembers the aroma of coffee in her childhood home. Now, she and her husband are continuing the tradition by bringing the smell of freshly brewed coffee into the life of their newborn daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13969932\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13969932\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a latte with foam milk art, topped with a slice of roasted ginger.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Wedang-Latte-2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inspired by a traditional Indonesian hot drink, Hijau’s wedang latte comes topped with a slice of torched ginger. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what exactly makes Hijau’s approach to coffee specifically Indonesian? For starters, some of the drinks are based on traditional Indonesian treats. As Maria puts it, “I think of coffee as my canvas to introduce Indonesian flavors.” Klepon, a pandan rice ball coated with shredded coconut and filled with molten palm sugar, inspired a latte made with pandan-infused palm sugar syrup, coconut milk and a coconut-flake garnish. Nastar, a bite-sized pineapple jam tart, gets reconstructed into a pineapple syrup–spiked latte humming with notes of clove and cinnamon. While the drinks are based on desserts, they’re not cloyingly sweet. Instead, they’re fine-tuned to allow the delicate flavors to shine through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For other drinks, Maria and Prawiradjaja drew inspiration from wedang, a category of hot drinks that can be made with peanuts, mung beans or ginger. Hijau’s wedang latte is made by infusing palm sugar syrup with torched ginger and lemongrass. It’s influenced by wedang jahe, a hot ginger drink popular in the highlands. Maria describes it as a seasonal alternative to a pumpkin spice latte. “We don’t even have that kind of coffee flavor in Indonesia,” says Maria. “So I can take inspiration from what is existing and introduce that flavor in coffee.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pandan, an aromatic leaf commonly used in Southeast Asian cooking, is a buzzy ingredient at cafes and pastry shops around the Bay, but Maria felt that many renditions weren’t living up to the herb’s potential. “I was underwhelmed by the flavor,” says Maria, “I couldn’t taste the fragrance. I really wanted to represent it well.” Her pandan latte is subtle, grassy and bright green — it’s Maria’s favorite creation and the shop’s most popular drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13969933\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13969933\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte.jpg\" alt=\"Iced coffee drink mixed with green-tinted milk.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Iced-Pandan-Latte-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An iced pandan latte — Hijau’s most popular drink. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, you won’t come across many bakeries offering freshly baked nastar or restaurants serving klepon for dessert. “Indonesia is the fourth most populous country in the world and the largest economy in Southeast Asia,” says Maria. “Why aren’t there more Indonesian establishments here?” In the past few years, a handful of Indonesian restaurants have opened up and gotten some buzz for their takes on classic dishes like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908798/bakso-indonesian-street-food-noodle-soup-dgrobak-richmond\">bakso\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962220/fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda\">beef rendang\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>While Indonesia is one of the top coffee-producing countries in the world, its coffee is not as popular in the U.S. as the roasts coming from other, more well-known coffee regions (in South and Central America, for instance). Coffee beans from the Indonesian island of Sumatra have long been a staple at third-wave coffee shops, but until recently, there weren’t any cafes that used these beans exclusively or that specialized in Indonesian-inspired coffee drinks. So far there are only a couple other spots — most notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963228/indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek\">Kopi Bar\u003c/a> in Walnut Creek and Kopiku in San Francisco, which both source Indonesian coffee beans through Beaneka Coffee, a local roastery. Hijau doesn’t use Indonesian beans yet but plans to in the next phase of the business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maria believes part of the reason Indonesian cuisine is underrepresented in the Bay Area is due to the relatively recent arrival of that immigrant community. It wasn’t until the ’80s and ’90s that there was a large wave of Indonesian immigration to the States, she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of us put our roots down here,” says Maria. “More Indonesians are settling down in the U.S. and they want to keep the heritage and tastes of home here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13969934\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13969934\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a barista pour milk into a coffee drink.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/Pouring-Milk-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A barista pours milk into one of Hijau’s Indonesian-inspired specialty coffee drinks. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She hopes that Hijau inspires more Indonesians to start their own businesses in the Bay Area. Her goal is to hook coffee lovers with Indonesian flavors before introducing them to the terroir of coffee beans from across Indonesia — specifically, those produced through giling basah (wet grinding), a process that originated in Indonesia that creates a distinct woody, earthy flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple plans to eventually open a brick-and-mortar coffee shop where they can continue to connect with the community. “It’s a bridge between my roots and future legacy,” says Maria. “I want our daughter to have her heritage represented when she grows up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wearehijau/\">\u003ci>Hijau\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at the San Jose Rose Garden farmers market (577 Dana Ave) every Saturday. They’ll have two more pop-ups this winter — on Jan. 4 and 11, from 9 a.m.–1 p.m. — before taking a break until March 15, For more information about future pop-ups, check out Hijau’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wearehijau/\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "peruvian-tea-coffee-papachay-emoliente-san-carlos-mountain-view",
"title": "A Hidden Cafe on the Peninsula Serves Rare Peruvian Coffee and Tea",
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"content": "\u003cp>For the average Bay Area caffeine seeker, Peruvian coffee and tea probably aren’t very high on the list of familiar options. Yet, Peru is \u003ca href=\"https://teajourney.pub/tea-in-peru/\">one of the highest tea-consuming nations in the Western Hemisphere\u003c/a>, largely due to the country’s high elevation. (In townships along the Andean peaks, tea made with coca leaves — of cocaine fame — is believed to prevent altitude sickness.) Peruvians have also become increasingly fond of coffee in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many Bay Area residents probably have never even heard of Peru’s choice beverages, let alone know where to get them. And who can blame them? Though Peruvian cuisine has done extremely well in our region — from local restaurant chains like Limón to smaller mom-and-pop shops like El Cerrito’s El Mono — there isn’t much of a Peruvian cafe scene to speak of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I came across \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">Papachay\u003c/a>, a husband-and-wife-owned brick-and-mortar located on a sleepy back street in the Peninsula city of San Carlos, I made my trek over. (In Quechan, an indigenous language in Peru, papachay is akin to saying “what’s up?” to a male friend; “mamay” is used to greet women).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960416\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960416\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a man prepares a cup of fresh coffee inside a Peruvian cafe\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maximiliano Gambirazio, a Peruvian immigrant, has been operating Papachay for nearly 20 years. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The business is masterminded by Maximiliano Gambirazio (originally from Peru) and Juliana Zieira-Gambirazio (a Brazilian immigrant). Impressively, the couple started out in their San Carlos warehouse nearly 20 years ago, when they sold raw coffee beans to roasters before buying a roasting machine of their own and expanding their business to include wholesale roasted coffee. Now, they run a full-fledged cafe — which opened in 2018 — and pop up every Sunday at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It all started spreading by word of mouth. We would get notes under the door of people asking us to call [them] so they could visit to buy fresh brewed coffee,” Zieira-Gambirazio says. “That pushed us to open [the cafe], and we started getting a crowd of people. After that, we had some calls to the fire department because of the smoke coming from all the roasting we were doing. [The fire department] told us to put a sign that we’re coffee roasters. That brought us more people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zieira-Gambirazio isn’t aware of any other strictly Peruvian cafes in the greater Bay Area. What Papachay is doing might be unmatched. That’s because the couple owns two coffee farms in Peru — in a highly elevated rainforest on the eastern slope of the Andes, near the small town of Villa Rica. With the help of a family, they source their organic coffee beans directly from these farms. Translation: they’re legit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specializing in Peruvian-origin coffee — as the massive “Peruvian Coffee” sign announces from the rooftop, like a 1920s hotel in Beverly Hills — the shop also sells Peruvian chocolate and Brazilian treats like pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese balls). But what caught my eye more than anything were the Peruvian teas. At its Sunday farmers market stand, the cafe brews emoliente, a mix of flax seed, plantain leaf, alfalfa sprout, toasted barley, Andean horsetail herb, cinnamon and cat’s claw bark. Native to Peru, the refreshing herbal drink is believed to help with digestive, circulatory and respiratory issues. The medicinal tea tastes earthy but not bitter, toasted but not burnt, balanced but not bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Emoliente is a very common drink in Peru. You often see it being prepared and sold on the street. Everybody has their own recipe. We make ours from scratch,” says Zieira-Gambirazio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960419\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960419\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"dried coffee fruit pulp \" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cascara, the dried skin and pulp of discarded coffee cherries, is used to brew an increasingly popular beverage in Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Papachay also serves cascara, a tea-like beverage made from boiling the skin and pulp of dried coffee fruit husks to make a drink that has recently become more popular in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I don’t see many people having that in the Bay Area, or even in Peru, really,” she continues. “It’s new to Peruvians. It’s a mix of fruit flavor with a green tea texture on your tongue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13932089,arts_13930727,arts_13928571']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The reason you may have never heard of Peruvian cascara, or any other Peruvian coffee products for that matter, is due to the country’s internal political turmoil dating back to the 1980s, when \u003ca href=\"https://webarchive.archive.unhcr.org/20230521173955/https://www.refworld.org/docid/3f51fd694.html\">insurgent groups like Sendero Luminoso (the Shining Path) occupied isolated territories in Peru\u003c/a> that otherwise could have been used to cultivate coffee. Byproducts of the coffee industry such as cascara were therefore less available for decades. Instead, tea became popularized as the nation’s drink of choice, leading to emoliente’s rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first encountered Papachay at the Mountain View Farmers’ Market, a long line of coffee drinkers waited for their lattes and cold brew. Naturally, I ordered emoliente, something I’d never heard of until then. Though the drink is typically served hot, I asked to enjoy it with ice — something the owners were happy to do. After a few sips and light conversation with the friendly Latin Americans, they mentioned having a shop a few miles north.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960417\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960417\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"an imported coffee bag of Peruvian coffee beans\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Papachay imports their coffee beans directly from Villa Rica, Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some days later, I made the drive over to their home base in San Carlos. That’s where I ordered cascara. It isn’t the kind of sugary morning drink you might find at Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts. Instead, the old-world beverage — which predates coffee itself — is a tangy mix of sweet and sour notes, most reminiscent of tamarind. Like emoliente, it’s consumed in Peru’s high-altitude areas and beloved for its health properties and organic freshness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although it provides a jolt of caffeine, it’s not meant to zap you awake with a quick rush of energy. Rather, Peruvian culture — and its teas — are meant for the long haul, for those steady uphill climbs (think Machu Picchu). Both cascara and emoliente share a smooth drinkability that doesn’t feel like it should be solely limited to a morning commute. In fact, most Peruvians prefer to drink cascara and emoliente in the evenings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I’ll start to do the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">\u003ci>Papachay Peruvian Coffee\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1431 Old County Rd., San Carlos) is open Mon. through Fri. from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Every Sunday, they can be found at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a> (600 W. Evelyn Ave., Mountain View) from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For the average Bay Area caffeine seeker, Peruvian coffee and tea probably aren’t very high on the list of familiar options. Yet, Peru is \u003ca href=\"https://teajourney.pub/tea-in-peru/\">one of the highest tea-consuming nations in the Western Hemisphere\u003c/a>, largely due to the country’s high elevation. (In townships along the Andean peaks, tea made with coca leaves — of cocaine fame — is believed to prevent altitude sickness.) Peruvians have also become increasingly fond of coffee in recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many Bay Area residents probably have never even heard of Peru’s choice beverages, let alone know where to get them. And who can blame them? Though Peruvian cuisine has done extremely well in our region — from local restaurant chains like Limón to smaller mom-and-pop shops like El Cerrito’s El Mono — there isn’t much of a Peruvian cafe scene to speak of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when I came across \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">Papachay\u003c/a>, a husband-and-wife-owned brick-and-mortar located on a sleepy back street in the Peninsula city of San Carlos, I made my trek over. (In Quechan, an indigenous language in Peru, papachay is akin to saying “what’s up?” to a male friend; “mamay” is used to greet women).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960416\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960416\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a man prepares a cup of fresh coffee inside a Peruvian cafe\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3145-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Maximiliano Gambirazio, a Peruvian immigrant, has been operating Papachay for nearly 20 years. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The business is masterminded by Maximiliano Gambirazio (originally from Peru) and Juliana Zieira-Gambirazio (a Brazilian immigrant). Impressively, the couple started out in their San Carlos warehouse nearly 20 years ago, when they sold raw coffee beans to roasters before buying a roasting machine of their own and expanding their business to include wholesale roasted coffee. Now, they run a full-fledged cafe — which opened in 2018 — and pop up every Sunday at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It all started spreading by word of mouth. We would get notes under the door of people asking us to call [them] so they could visit to buy fresh brewed coffee,” Zieira-Gambirazio says. “That pushed us to open [the cafe], and we started getting a crowd of people. After that, we had some calls to the fire department because of the smoke coming from all the roasting we were doing. [The fire department] told us to put a sign that we’re coffee roasters. That brought us more people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zieira-Gambirazio isn’t aware of any other strictly Peruvian cafes in the greater Bay Area. What Papachay is doing might be unmatched. That’s because the couple owns two coffee farms in Peru — in a highly elevated rainforest on the eastern slope of the Andes, near the small town of Villa Rica. With the help of a family, they source their organic coffee beans directly from these farms. Translation: they’re legit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specializing in Peruvian-origin coffee — as the massive “Peruvian Coffee” sign announces from the rooftop, like a 1920s hotel in Beverly Hills — the shop also sells Peruvian chocolate and Brazilian treats like pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese balls). But what caught my eye more than anything were the Peruvian teas. At its Sunday farmers market stand, the cafe brews emoliente, a mix of flax seed, plantain leaf, alfalfa sprout, toasted barley, Andean horsetail herb, cinnamon and cat’s claw bark. Native to Peru, the refreshing herbal drink is believed to help with digestive, circulatory and respiratory issues. The medicinal tea tastes earthy but not bitter, toasted but not burnt, balanced but not bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Emoliente is a very common drink in Peru. You often see it being prepared and sold on the street. Everybody has their own recipe. We make ours from scratch,” says Zieira-Gambirazio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960419\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960419\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"dried coffee fruit pulp \" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3173-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cascara, the dried skin and pulp of discarded coffee cherries, is used to brew an increasingly popular beverage in Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Papachay also serves cascara, a tea-like beverage made from boiling the skin and pulp of dried coffee fruit husks to make a drink that has recently become more popular in Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I don’t see many people having that in the Bay Area, or even in Peru, really,” she continues. “It’s new to Peruvians. It’s a mix of fruit flavor with a green tea texture on your tongue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The reason you may have never heard of Peruvian cascara, or any other Peruvian coffee products for that matter, is due to the country’s internal political turmoil dating back to the 1980s, when \u003ca href=\"https://webarchive.archive.unhcr.org/20230521173955/https://www.refworld.org/docid/3f51fd694.html\">insurgent groups like Sendero Luminoso (the Shining Path) occupied isolated territories in Peru\u003c/a> that otherwise could have been used to cultivate coffee. Byproducts of the coffee industry such as cascara were therefore less available for decades. Instead, tea became popularized as the nation’s drink of choice, leading to emoliente’s rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I first encountered Papachay at the Mountain View Farmers’ Market, a long line of coffee drinkers waited for their lattes and cold brew. Naturally, I ordered emoliente, something I’d never heard of until then. Though the drink is typically served hot, I asked to enjoy it with ice — something the owners were happy to do. After a few sips and light conversation with the friendly Latin Americans, they mentioned having a shop a few miles north.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960417\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960417\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"an imported coffee bag of Peruvian coffee beans\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/06/IMG_3155-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Papachay imports their coffee beans directly from Villa Rica, Peru. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Some days later, I made the drive over to their home base in San Carlos. That’s where I ordered cascara. It isn’t the kind of sugary morning drink you might find at Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts. Instead, the old-world beverage — which predates coffee itself — is a tangy mix of sweet and sour notes, most reminiscent of tamarind. Like emoliente, it’s consumed in Peru’s high-altitude areas and beloved for its health properties and organic freshness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although it provides a jolt of caffeine, it’s not meant to zap you awake with a quick rush of energy. Rather, Peruvian culture — and its teas — are meant for the long haul, for those steady uphill climbs (think Machu Picchu). Both cascara and emoliente share a smooth drinkability that doesn’t feel like it should be solely limited to a morning commute. In fact, most Peruvians prefer to drink cascara and emoliente in the evenings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I’ll start to do the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/papachayperuviancoffee/\">\u003ci>Papachay Peruvian Coffee\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> (1431 Old County Rd., San Carlos) is open Mon. through Fri. from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Every Sunday, they can be found at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.cafarmersmkts.com/mountain-view-farmers-market\">Mountain View Farmers’ Market\u003c/a> (600 W. Evelyn Ave., Mountain View) from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How a Dumpling Chef Brought Dim Sum to Bay Area Farmers Markets",
"headTitle": "How a Dumpling Chef Brought Dim Sum to Bay Area Farmers Markets | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Editor’s note:\u003c/strong> This story is part of KQED’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/youthtakeover\">Youth Takeover\u003c/a>. Throughout the week of April 22-26, we’re publishing content by high school students from all over the Bay Area.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since I was five years old, one of my favorite traditions has been going to the Grand Lake Farmers Market with my dad every Saturday morning. \u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-13833985\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Nadege.headshot.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"160\" height=\"184\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The market has been open since 1998 near the shore of Lake Merritt in Oakland, and it’s the perfect place to find almost anything you can think of — organic produce, fresh flowers and hot meals cooked to order while you wait. When I came with my dad, we’d order fresh gaufres from the Belgian waffle vendor, then browse the ripe nectarines and strawberries that were in season. Sometimes, we’d get rotisserie chicken and potatoes for lunch from one of the food trucks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I even tried dim sum for the first time. One Saturday we noticed a stand called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/trugourmet\">Tru Gourmet\u003c/a> that sold all kinds of steamed dumplings and buns. We ordered dumplings and crispy chicken wings, which turned out to be our favorite. Then we found somewhere near the booth to eat it all standing up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was about 10 years ago. As it turns out, Tru Gourmet is still around, setting up its stand at the Grand Lake Farmers Market — and \u003ca href=\"http://trugourmet.com/locations/\">two other farmers markets around the Bay Area\u003c/a> — every week. When I visited their tent on a recent Saturday, the line was so long that it almost crossed in front of the vendor next door. Inside, the cooks were busy heating the dumplings in bamboo steamers. Everything smelled so good, it was hard to choose. When I finally bit into a savory scallion pancake and delighted in the softness of a juicy pork bun, I urged my dad to order seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956337\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956337\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop.jpg\" alt='A display showing different kinds of dim sum available, all arranged in bamboo steamers. A sign on the table reads, \"Cash Only.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of the different kinds of dim sum available at Tru Gourmet’s Grand Lake Farmers Market stand on a recent Saturday. \u003ccite>(Nadege Mulamba)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I realize now is that it isn’t very typical for dim sum to be sold at a farmers market — in fact, Tru Gourmet seems to be the only business doing it regularly here in the Bay Area. It made me curious: What made these chefs decide to set up their business outdoors instead of selling their dumplings inside a more traditional dim sum restaurant? And why doesn’t it seem like very many others are doing it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had the opportunity to interview the owner, Olivia Liu, who shared her story of how the business started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: When did you start this business? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Liu\u003c/b>: Tru Gourmet started with my mom, Cathy Tsui, back in August 2008.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Wow, almost sixteen years! Why did you want to create dim sum at the farmers market? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother and I had a weekly tradition of dining on dim sum and visiting our local farmers markets, which gave us the idea to combine those two and start a family business. Dim sum translates into “touch of the heart.” Our goal is to touch your heart with handcrafted dim sum made from our hearts. [At Tru Gourmet,] you will find traditional dumplings one might see at popular dim sum houses and modern-day creations that aim to expand one’s view of dim sum, like black truffle shrimp dumplings or spiny lobster dumplings. We also have vegan dumplings such as our kale dumpling and bok choy dumpling, and seasonal [specials] like our asparagus dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are proud to source most of our produce from the farmers markets we attend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you know of any other businesses that were selling dim sum at farmers markets at that time?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2008, we could have been the only ones. We have never seen [any other] dim sum at any farmers market, but it is common in food festivals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956335\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956335\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo.jpg\" alt=\"A young woman in a white chef's jacket serves dim sum to a guest at a fancy gala.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">True Gourmet’s Olivia Liu serves dim sum at an event at the Headlands Center for the Arts in Sausalito. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo, courtesy of Headlands Center for the Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>About 10 years ago, my dad and I actually had chicken wings at your Grand Lake market stand. They were so good, and I was sad that you only seemed to sell them once every two months. Do you guys still sell those?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C5-9z0xrCd0/\">spicy crispy chicken wings\u003c/a> are definitely popular, and we also make spicy crispy \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C5a6fWNr0cl/\">salmon\u003c/a>. We rotate our special every week, which is why it’s only served once in a while. My mother made these wings for me as a child, and they were my absolute favorite! I knew we had to put them on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are there any challenges with making dim sum work at the farmers market? Do you have to change certain recipes to make it work?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had never worked at a farmers market before, so we learned how to adapt and improve along the way. In our 15 years of business, we have learned ways to operate more efficiently and effectively, especially in setting up our booth.\u003cb>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have a commissary kitchen we work out of to prepare all of the dim sum. The dumplings are wrapped in the kitchen, and we steam everything fresh at the farmers markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is your favorite memory from running this business? Was there a specific customer that stood out to you? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s building relationships with my customers. So many regulars come every week and make my dim sum part of their weekly ritual. There have also been many regulars who moved away but make it a priority to stop by whenever they are visiting. Countless mothers ate my dim sum while pregnant, and I saw these babies grow up. Whenever a child wants my food for their birthday party, or if I cater a bar or bat mitzvah, quinceañera, holiday party or wedding, it feels so special to be included in their special day. Any time a first-time customer comes back after they try the dim sum to tell me how much they enjoyed it, it is one of my favorite things. The food industry is a labor of love, and it is incredibly gratifying to receive excellent feedback.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One rainy winter day when I first joined the Grand Lake Farmers Market, one of my regular customers, Jefferson, brought me a cup of tea because he saw me shivering in the cold. It was a small gesture, but it meant so much to me, and I still remember it over 10 years later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956336\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956336\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes.jpg\" alt=\"A stack of scallion pancakes on a white plate.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2379\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-800x991.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-1020x1264.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-160x198.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-768x952.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-1240x1536.jpg 1240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-1653x2048.jpg 1653w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stack of crispy, savory scallion pancakes. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Liu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>That’s really sweet!\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, and during the wildfires, a customer named Linda gave me and my mother masks because she was concerned since we work outdoors. Knowing I am more than just a food vendor to these customers warms my heart. Being a part of this amazing community is such a special thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[People from] all walks of life enjoy my dim sum, from babies to their grandparents, people who have never had it or those with food sensitivities. We have vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, seafood and meat options. There is something for everyone. Everyone loves dim sum!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your favorite item on your menu? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A VIP client of mine hired me to cater her mother’s birthday dinner. She had requested that I make something with black truffles. That is when the black truffle shrimp dumpling was born. It is my personal favorite dumpling and has also become a favorite for many regulars. It’s special how we add black truffle to the shrimp filling, and we also add black truffle to the top of the dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the traditional shrimp dumpling might be [better] for you if you are a purist. Some would say the shrimp dumpling is how to tell if a dim sum house is good or not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956334\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle.jpg\" alt=\"Two varieties of dim sum on a paper plate. One of them is topped with black truffle shavings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tru Gourmet’s more modern, creative dim sum items include a shrimp dumpling that incorporates black truffles. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Liu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the best thing about selling at the farmers market? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love working at the farmers market! It’s such a wonderful community. Most of my customers are regulars who come every week, rain or shine. I appreciate their support. Even during the beginning of COVID, regulars came every week. It was because of them that I was able to stay in business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have been in business for 15 years and hope for another 15 years to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://trugourmet.com/\">\u003ci>Tru Gourmet Dim Sum\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open at the Grand Lake Farmers Market (746 Grand Ave., Oakland) on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003ci>You can also find them at the Marin Farmers Market (3501 Civic Center Dr., San Rafael) on Sundays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., and at the California Avenue Farmers Market (400 California Ave., Palo Alto) on Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nNadege Mulamba is a senior at Oakland Technical High School enjoys listening to music, writing and baking in her free time. She is passionate about screenwriting and wants to major in film.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Editor’s note:\u003c/strong> This story is part of KQED’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/youthtakeover\">Youth Takeover\u003c/a>. Throughout the week of April 22-26, we’re publishing content by high school students from all over the Bay Area.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since I was five years old, one of my favorite traditions has been going to the Grand Lake Farmers Market with my dad every Saturday morning. \u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-13833985\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/Nadege.headshot.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"160\" height=\"184\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The market has been open since 1998 near the shore of Lake Merritt in Oakland, and it’s the perfect place to find almost anything you can think of — organic produce, fresh flowers and hot meals cooked to order while you wait. When I came with my dad, we’d order fresh gaufres from the Belgian waffle vendor, then browse the ripe nectarines and strawberries that were in season. Sometimes, we’d get rotisserie chicken and potatoes for lunch from one of the food trucks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I even tried dim sum for the first time. One Saturday we noticed a stand called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/trugourmet\">Tru Gourmet\u003c/a> that sold all kinds of steamed dumplings and buns. We ordered dumplings and crispy chicken wings, which turned out to be our favorite. Then we found somewhere near the booth to eat it all standing up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was about 10 years ago. As it turns out, Tru Gourmet is still around, setting up its stand at the Grand Lake Farmers Market — and \u003ca href=\"http://trugourmet.com/locations/\">two other farmers markets around the Bay Area\u003c/a> — every week. When I visited their tent on a recent Saturday, the line was so long that it almost crossed in front of the vendor next door. Inside, the cooks were busy heating the dumplings in bamboo steamers. Everything smelled so good, it was hard to choose. When I finally bit into a savory scallion pancake and delighted in the softness of a juicy pork bun, I urged my dad to order seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956337\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956337\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop.jpg\" alt='A display showing different kinds of dim sum available, all arranged in bamboo steamers. A sign on the table reads, \"Cash Only.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-stand-crop-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A display of the different kinds of dim sum available at Tru Gourmet’s Grand Lake Farmers Market stand on a recent Saturday. \u003ccite>(Nadege Mulamba)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I realize now is that it isn’t very typical for dim sum to be sold at a farmers market — in fact, Tru Gourmet seems to be the only business doing it regularly here in the Bay Area. It made me curious: What made these chefs decide to set up their business outdoors instead of selling their dumplings inside a more traditional dim sum restaurant? And why doesn’t it seem like very many others are doing it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had the opportunity to interview the owner, Olivia Liu, who shared her story of how the business started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The following interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: When did you start this business? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Liu\u003c/b>: Tru Gourmet started with my mom, Cathy Tsui, back in August 2008.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Wow, almost sixteen years! Why did you want to create dim sum at the farmers market? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother and I had a weekly tradition of dining on dim sum and visiting our local farmers markets, which gave us the idea to combine those two and start a family business. Dim sum translates into “touch of the heart.” Our goal is to touch your heart with handcrafted dim sum made from our hearts. [At Tru Gourmet,] you will find traditional dumplings one might see at popular dim sum houses and modern-day creations that aim to expand one’s view of dim sum, like black truffle shrimp dumplings or spiny lobster dumplings. We also have vegan dumplings such as our kale dumpling and bok choy dumpling, and seasonal [specials] like our asparagus dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are proud to source most of our produce from the farmers markets we attend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you know of any other businesses that were selling dim sum at farmers markets at that time?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2008, we could have been the only ones. We have never seen [any other] dim sum at any farmers market, but it is common in food festivals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956335\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956335\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo.jpg\" alt=\"A young woman in a white chef's jacket serves dim sum to a guest at a fancy gala.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-oivia-credit-andria-lo-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">True Gourmet’s Olivia Liu serves dim sum at an event at the Headlands Center for the Arts in Sausalito. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo, courtesy of Headlands Center for the Arts)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>About 10 years ago, my dad and I actually had chicken wings at your Grand Lake market stand. They were so good, and I was sad that you only seemed to sell them once every two months. Do you guys still sell those?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C5-9z0xrCd0/\">spicy crispy chicken wings\u003c/a> are definitely popular, and we also make spicy crispy \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C5a6fWNr0cl/\">salmon\u003c/a>. We rotate our special every week, which is why it’s only served once in a while. My mother made these wings for me as a child, and they were my absolute favorite! I knew we had to put them on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are there any challenges with making dim sum work at the farmers market? Do you have to change certain recipes to make it work?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had never worked at a farmers market before, so we learned how to adapt and improve along the way. In our 15 years of business, we have learned ways to operate more efficiently and effectively, especially in setting up our booth.\u003cb>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have a commissary kitchen we work out of to prepare all of the dim sum. The dumplings are wrapped in the kitchen, and we steam everything fresh at the farmers markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What is your favorite memory from running this business? Was there a specific customer that stood out to you? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s building relationships with my customers. So many regulars come every week and make my dim sum part of their weekly ritual. There have also been many regulars who moved away but make it a priority to stop by whenever they are visiting. Countless mothers ate my dim sum while pregnant, and I saw these babies grow up. Whenever a child wants my food for their birthday party, or if I cater a bar or bat mitzvah, quinceañera, holiday party or wedding, it feels so special to be included in their special day. Any time a first-time customer comes back after they try the dim sum to tell me how much they enjoyed it, it is one of my favorite things. The food industry is a labor of love, and it is incredibly gratifying to receive excellent feedback.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One rainy winter day when I first joined the Grand Lake Farmers Market, one of my regular customers, Jefferson, brought me a cup of tea because he saw me shivering in the cold. It was a small gesture, but it meant so much to me, and I still remember it over 10 years later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956336\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956336\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes.jpg\" alt=\"A stack of scallion pancakes on a white plate.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2379\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-800x991.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-1020x1264.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-160x198.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-768x952.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-1240x1536.jpg 1240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-scallion-pancakes-1653x2048.jpg 1653w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A stack of crispy, savory scallion pancakes. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Liu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>That’s really sweet!\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, and during the wildfires, a customer named Linda gave me and my mother masks because she was concerned since we work outdoors. Knowing I am more than just a food vendor to these customers warms my heart. Being a part of this amazing community is such a special thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[People from] all walks of life enjoy my dim sum, from babies to their grandparents, people who have never had it or those with food sensitivities. We have vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, seafood and meat options. There is something for everyone. Everyone loves dim sum!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your favorite item on your menu? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A VIP client of mine hired me to cater her mother’s birthday dinner. She had requested that I make something with black truffles. That is when the black truffle shrimp dumpling was born. It is my personal favorite dumpling and has also become a favorite for many regulars. It’s special how we add black truffle to the shrimp filling, and we also add black truffle to the top of the dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the traditional shrimp dumpling might be [better] for you if you are a purist. Some would say the shrimp dumpling is how to tell if a dim sum house is good or not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13956334\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13956334\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle.jpg\" alt=\"Two varieties of dim sum on a paper plate. One of them is topped with black truffle shavings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/04/tru-gourmet-black-truffle-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tru Gourmet’s more modern, creative dim sum items include a shrimp dumpling that incorporates black truffles. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Liu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the best thing about selling at the farmers market? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love working at the farmers market! It’s such a wonderful community. Most of my customers are regulars who come every week, rain or shine. I appreciate their support. Even during the beginning of COVID, regulars came every week. It was because of them that I was able to stay in business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have been in business for 15 years and hope for another 15 years to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://trugourmet.com/\">\u003ci>Tru Gourmet Dim Sum\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open at the Grand Lake Farmers Market (746 Grand Ave., Oakland) on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. \u003c/i>\u003ci>You can also find them at the Marin Farmers Market (3501 Civic Center Dr., San Rafael) on Sundays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., and at the California Avenue Farmers Market (400 California Ave., Palo Alto) on Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nNadege Mulamba is a senior at Oakland Technical High School enjoys listening to music, writing and baking in her free time. She is passionate about screenwriting and wants to major in film.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "A New Farmers Market in West Oakland Promises Healthy Foods and Community Flavor",
"headTitle": "A New Farmers Market in West Oakland Promises Healthy Foods and Community Flavor | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>The West Oakland neighborhood where Elliot Johnson grew up during the 1980s was filled with community abundance — but hampered, at times, by a lack of fresh, organic foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“On 14th and Center there was a store, but a real grocer wasn’t really around until Acorn Super. Then they closed,” he remembers. “The people were happy, but it was real bad poverty back then. You had to go to Alameda or Rockridge for fresh food. It was tough. So when [West Oakland Farmers Market] started, we knew we had to be part of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Johnson and his wife, Shawlaya, operate \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldisgourmetspices/?hl=en\">Goldi’s\u003c/a>, a small-batch spice business that pops up every Sunday at the quirky \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/westoaklandfarmersmarket/?hl=en\">West Oakland Farmers Market\u003c/a>. The new outdoor market — located in the Prescott neighborhood on Peralta Street, between 18th and 20th Streets — offers a mosaic of goods provided by a diverse spectrum of local vendors and artisans. The hope is to reflect the neighborhood’s robust past and evolving future in order to serve the community’s present needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any given Sunday, you can browse the market’s selection of tasty beverages and natural foods while strolling a quiet, two-block road sentineled by nearby Victorian homes. Perhaps more importantly, you’ll notice that the market is helping to open a fresh lane in the community: one that creates a path for aspiring entrepreneurs in the area’s overlooked pocket of healthy foods commerce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925807\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925807\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands in front of his spice booth at the market\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elliot Johnson grew up in West Oakland in the 1980s and now sells his spices at the new farmers market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Launched in the summer of 2022 with the support of Oakland Councilmember Carroll Fife and the \u003ca href=\"https://cao-94612.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Neighborhood-Council-Meeting-Schedule-2_2022-09-20-192105_fkcl.xlsx\">Prescott Neighborhood Council\u003c/a>, the market is currently the neighborhood’s only farmers market. Less than a year later, the market has turned into the only intersection in West Oakland where such a collection of organic farmers, florists, breadmakers, honey purveyors, ranchers, meat suppliers and wide-ranging community members like the Johnsons can share their homemade offerings to a steady base of market-goers..\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Featuring anywhere from 25 to 50 vendors each week — and predominantly representing Black, brown and Asian diasporas — the market spotlights a potpourri of creative offerings with an emphasis on providers who aren’t usually the biggest demographic at other farmers markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Working with future generations of diverse organic farmers, it’s harder for them to get into more established markets,” says Harvindar Singh, the founder of \u003ca href=\"https://www.foragersmarket.org/about\">Foragers Market\u003c/a>, the organization that operates West Oakland Farmers Market along with a handful of similar markets around the Bay Area. “But things are changing. [The idea of] traditional, old, white hippie farmers is beginning to open up to more diverse farmers and vendors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coming on the heels of last year’s sudden closure of \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2022/02/24/oakland-community-foods-brahm-ahmadi\">People’s Community Market\u003c/a>, one of West Oakland’s only grocery stores, the farmers market arrives at a time when the neighborhood once again finds itself with limited access to such resources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often described as a “food desert,” West Oakland — like many communities shaped by decades of segregation and systemically racist practices — has struggled to maintain a sustainable, concentrated supply of high-quality groceries, particularly in recent years as the Bay Area has only become increasingly unaffordable and inaccessible for working class families. Besides small, community-led sources like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bottomsupcommunitygarden/?hl=en\">Bottoms Up Community Garden\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.cityslickerfarms.org/about-us/\">City Slicker Farms\u003c/a>, which supply fresh produce directly to the immediate area, the neighborhood doesn’t have many options. \u003ca href=\"https://www.good.is/articles/change-through-food-bringing-an-oasis-to-the-west-oakland-food-desert\">Mandela Foods Cooperative\u003c/a> is a heralded beacon, providing the only walkable source of varietal produce for those who call the area home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within this complex landscape of food injustice, the West Oakland Farmers Market — which partners with Mandela to allow its vendors to distribute at the co-op in order to foster a mutually beneficial relationship — is hoping to shift the narrative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925810\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925810\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"the inside of a commercial building that is planning to be turned into a foodhall\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plans for a food hall near the West Oakland Farmers Market will feature local foodmakers. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the same time, it’s necessary to look at any emerging venture in West Oakland with a certain degree of skepticism — to perhaps wonder if this is another attempt to gain footing in an increasingly gentrifiying sliver of land. After all, the farmers market is funded by a commercial real estate developer, \u003ca href=\"https://srmernst.com/\">srmERNST Development Partners\u003c/a>, which is also in the process of building a new food hall nearby — an impressive space that will host local foodmakers as well. Joe Ernst, srmERNST’s founder, and the folks behind West Oakland Farmers Market all seem to have good intentions. They say they want to deliver a promising, collaborative space for the neighborhood’s residents. But the larger issue of community revitalization is layered and intersectional, and no single effort can resolve more than nearly a half-century of institutional neglect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What we know from mounting research over the past four to six years is that geographic access inequalities are actually a pretty poor explanation of dietary inequalities,” said Priya Fielding-Singh, author of \u003ci>How the Other Half Eats\u003c/i>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907528/how-the-other-half-eats-food-deserts-food-inequality-bay-area\">in a past interview with KQED\u003c/a>. In other words, food deserts are only a small part of the problem, and the addition of a single farmers market can only do so much to improve the way that people in West Oakland eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the West Oakland Farmers Market does represent a tide of change and opportunity, with potential to become a generative outlet for both vendors and market-goers. In \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/west-oakland-farmers-market-17782486.php\">a recent \u003ci>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i> interview\u003c/a>, Ernst, the developer, said he wants to “have an impact on the area, not just build and lease.” What better way to make an impact than through good food?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Singh, who has over 10 years of experience as the “local forager” for Whole Foods and has built relationships with farmers around Northern California, seems to be the right man for the task, with his empathetic outlook and understanding of what’s at stake for small businesses and community members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Markets like these are incubators,” Singh says. “They’re designed to give people a way to start up, scale, grow and then go to broader markets.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under Singh’s energetic leadership, the new farmers market is taking a community-first approach to ensure that the space will remain accessible — and useful — to local buyers and sellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, 80% of the vendors at the market are BIPOC and representative of the neighborhood, Singh tells me. It’s an intentional effort to provide a space for fledgling micro-businesses around the area. For many of the vendors, it’s one of the only markets they have a chance to sell at, allowing them to supplement their pop-up business while trying to expand sustainably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925808\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925808\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"two local siblings sell smoothies and granola at the market every Sunday\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cristian and Grisela Sánalo can be found selling smoothies every Sunday at the new market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One such vendor is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sanalo2022/\">Sánalo\u003c/a>, a smoothie and snack company founded by Cristian and Grisela Sánalo, two Mexican American siblings with roots in Oakland and Hayward. The young venture is a part-time hustle for the Sánalos, who work full-time jobs and side gigs on weekdays, then set up on weekends to serve treats like toast and granola.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Living in a major city, it can be difficult to find [a feeling of community],” says Cristian Sánalo. “But the culture [at West Oakland Farmers Market] is definitely inclined to feel like a community. They’re good people who want everyone to do their thing and be successful.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sánalo’s “Green Magic” smoothie is a rich blend of chia, dates, apple, kale, pineapple, celery and spinach. And the “Apapacho” (a hot beverage made from oats, kabocha squash, ginger and cinnamon) — whose Spanish name, derived from indigenous Nahuatl, roughly translates to “tender affection” — allows customers to tap into less commonly available flavors that reflect the Sánalos’ heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If beverages aren’t your thing, there’s amazing sourdough from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rizeupbakery/?hl=en\">Rize Up Bakery\u003c/a>, a Black-owned bakery from San Francisco that, \u003ca href=\"https://rizeupsourdough.com/pages/about\">according to founder Azikiwee Anderson\u003c/a>, was “born as a way to channel energy into something healing during the social unrest caused by the murder of George Floyd.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking for less carbs? Bassline Coffee — whose owner, Brad Katz, is \u003ca href=\"https://www.waveworksav.com/\">involved in the local music industry\u003c/a> as an audio-video engineer and first dipped into coffee-making during the pandemic — is pouring “a roast for every rhythm” and supplements his coffee company with his passion for mixtapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13905374,arts_13915889,arts_13908432']Don’t do caffeine? A few booths away you’ll come across \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/clandestinacocinaberkeley/?hl=en\">Clandestina Cocina\u003c/a>, a Berkeley-based Cuban eatery serving island-style soul food and classic favorites like ropa vieja (shredded steak in tomato sauce with bell peppers and onions) and the eternally-delicious Cubano sandwich. Havana-born chef Lilian Duran is happy to feed others, including Chari Parla, a Cuban American who used to work at the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My first day at the market was such an amazing, dreamlike treat to look up from my booth and see Clandestina across the way,” says Parla, originally from Miami. “I’ve been living [in Oakland] for six years, and I can count on one hand how many Cuban people I’ve met. We don’t find each other often. For me to see, smell, taste and hear all of those Cuban elements is really just warming.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the sort of feeling that Singh hopes to facilitate, often surveying customers and nearby residents about what else they would like to see. The Sunday market has featured live music and, at one point, curated open mic poetry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an effort to be inclusive, Singh has also lowered, or in some cases removed, the entrance fees for vendors in need, making it easier for non-traditional suppliers to participate. The market also donates products to \u003ca href=\"https://www.acdsal.org/farms\">Dig Deep Farms\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://westoaklandhealth.org/\">West Oakland Health Council\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1028996737152976&paipv=0&eav=AfY-Rcqphpmcxw2XqrXOeF-Er55s2YHMJsNxFrdjBL7sCfKrKHC4zSHr63ISC8UwZEo&_rdr\">Eritrean Task Force-Orthodox Church\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925809\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925809\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a group of friends pose for the camera while exploring the new market\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A group of friends pose for the camera while exploring the new market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, the West Oakland Farmers Market doesn’t feel like most other farmers markets. Singh’s track record of investing in nascent, grassroots business is a strong focus, and his compassionate compass helps him navigate the market’s larger civic goals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Fernando [from Catalan Farm] is an organic farmer from Alba,” says Singh. “He teaches immigrant farmers how to grow organically. He’s the perfect example of how this market is about uplifting space to converse and support locally. It’s gonna take time to build, but we’re in it for the long haul. I’m having a blast, I love this community and these customers communing and supporting each other.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the aforementioned food hall already under construction in partnership with the developer, Ernst — who initially funded the West Oakland Farmers Market during its start-up phase before it became self-sufficient — Singh says Foragers Market hopes to continue to provide enriching economic opportunities for vendors and accessible, affordable and natural foods that meet customers wherever they’re at. It will require care, awareness and precise management — much like a field of crops, I imagine — but if done right, could yield a cornucopia of possibilities. And for many, it’s what they’ve been waiting for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s like being back home,” Johnson, the spice vendor who grew up in West Oakland, says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>West Oakland Farmers Market is open every Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. (on Peralta Street between 18th and 20th Streets). WIC/EBT accepted.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The West Oakland neighborhood where Elliot Johnson grew up during the 1980s was filled with community abundance — but hampered, at times, by a lack of fresh, organic foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“On 14th and Center there was a store, but a real grocer wasn’t really around until Acorn Super. Then they closed,” he remembers. “The people were happy, but it was real bad poverty back then. You had to go to Alameda or Rockridge for fresh food. It was tough. So when [West Oakland Farmers Market] started, we knew we had to be part of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Johnson and his wife, Shawlaya, operate \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/goldisgourmetspices/?hl=en\">Goldi’s\u003c/a>, a small-batch spice business that pops up every Sunday at the quirky \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/westoaklandfarmersmarket/?hl=en\">West Oakland Farmers Market\u003c/a>. The new outdoor market — located in the Prescott neighborhood on Peralta Street, between 18th and 20th Streets — offers a mosaic of goods provided by a diverse spectrum of local vendors and artisans. The hope is to reflect the neighborhood’s robust past and evolving future in order to serve the community’s present needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On any given Sunday, you can browse the market’s selection of tasty beverages and natural foods while strolling a quiet, two-block road sentineled by nearby Victorian homes. Perhaps more importantly, you’ll notice that the market is helping to open a fresh lane in the community: one that creates a path for aspiring entrepreneurs in the area’s overlooked pocket of healthy foods commerce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925807\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925807\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands in front of his spice booth at the market\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/goldis_alanchazaro.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elliot Johnson grew up in West Oakland in the 1980s and now sells his spices at the new farmers market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Launched in the summer of 2022 with the support of Oakland Councilmember Carroll Fife and the \u003ca href=\"https://cao-94612.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Neighborhood-Council-Meeting-Schedule-2_2022-09-20-192105_fkcl.xlsx\">Prescott Neighborhood Council\u003c/a>, the market is currently the neighborhood’s only farmers market. Less than a year later, the market has turned into the only intersection in West Oakland where such a collection of organic farmers, florists, breadmakers, honey purveyors, ranchers, meat suppliers and wide-ranging community members like the Johnsons can share their homemade offerings to a steady base of market-goers..\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Featuring anywhere from 25 to 50 vendors each week — and predominantly representing Black, brown and Asian diasporas — the market spotlights a potpourri of creative offerings with an emphasis on providers who aren’t usually the biggest demographic at other farmers markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Working with future generations of diverse organic farmers, it’s harder for them to get into more established markets,” says Harvindar Singh, the founder of \u003ca href=\"https://www.foragersmarket.org/about\">Foragers Market\u003c/a>, the organization that operates West Oakland Farmers Market along with a handful of similar markets around the Bay Area. “But things are changing. [The idea of] traditional, old, white hippie farmers is beginning to open up to more diverse farmers and vendors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coming on the heels of last year’s sudden closure of \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2022/02/24/oakland-community-foods-brahm-ahmadi\">People’s Community Market\u003c/a>, one of West Oakland’s only grocery stores, the farmers market arrives at a time when the neighborhood once again finds itself with limited access to such resources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often described as a “food desert,” West Oakland — like many communities shaped by decades of segregation and systemically racist practices — has struggled to maintain a sustainable, concentrated supply of high-quality groceries, particularly in recent years as the Bay Area has only become increasingly unaffordable and inaccessible for working class families. Besides small, community-led sources like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bottomsupcommunitygarden/?hl=en\">Bottoms Up Community Garden\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.cityslickerfarms.org/about-us/\">City Slicker Farms\u003c/a>, which supply fresh produce directly to the immediate area, the neighborhood doesn’t have many options. \u003ca href=\"https://www.good.is/articles/change-through-food-bringing-an-oasis-to-the-west-oakland-food-desert\">Mandela Foods Cooperative\u003c/a> is a heralded beacon, providing the only walkable source of varietal produce for those who call the area home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within this complex landscape of food injustice, the West Oakland Farmers Market — which partners with Mandela to allow its vendors to distribute at the co-op in order to foster a mutually beneficial relationship — is hoping to shift the narrative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925810\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925810\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"the inside of a commercial building that is planning to be turned into a foodhall\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_foodhall_alanchazaro.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plans for a food hall near the West Oakland Farmers Market will feature local foodmakers. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the same time, it’s necessary to look at any emerging venture in West Oakland with a certain degree of skepticism — to perhaps wonder if this is another attempt to gain footing in an increasingly gentrifiying sliver of land. After all, the farmers market is funded by a commercial real estate developer, \u003ca href=\"https://srmernst.com/\">srmERNST Development Partners\u003c/a>, which is also in the process of building a new food hall nearby — an impressive space that will host local foodmakers as well. Joe Ernst, srmERNST’s founder, and the folks behind West Oakland Farmers Market all seem to have good intentions. They say they want to deliver a promising, collaborative space for the neighborhood’s residents. But the larger issue of community revitalization is layered and intersectional, and no single effort can resolve more than nearly a half-century of institutional neglect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What we know from mounting research over the past four to six years is that geographic access inequalities are actually a pretty poor explanation of dietary inequalities,” said Priya Fielding-Singh, author of \u003ci>How the Other Half Eats\u003c/i>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907528/how-the-other-half-eats-food-deserts-food-inequality-bay-area\">in a past interview with KQED\u003c/a>. In other words, food deserts are only a small part of the problem, and the addition of a single farmers market can only do so much to improve the way that people in West Oakland eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, the West Oakland Farmers Market does represent a tide of change and opportunity, with potential to become a generative outlet for both vendors and market-goers. In \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/west-oakland-farmers-market-17782486.php\">a recent \u003ci>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i> interview\u003c/a>, Ernst, the developer, said he wants to “have an impact on the area, not just build and lease.” What better way to make an impact than through good food?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Singh, who has over 10 years of experience as the “local forager” for Whole Foods and has built relationships with farmers around Northern California, seems to be the right man for the task, with his empathetic outlook and understanding of what’s at stake for small businesses and community members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Markets like these are incubators,” Singh says. “They’re designed to give people a way to start up, scale, grow and then go to broader markets.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under Singh’s energetic leadership, the new farmers market is taking a community-first approach to ensure that the space will remain accessible — and useful — to local buyers and sellers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, 80% of the vendors at the market are BIPOC and representative of the neighborhood, Singh tells me. It’s an intentional effort to provide a space for fledgling micro-businesses around the area. For many of the vendors, it’s one of the only markets they have a chance to sell at, allowing them to supplement their pop-up business while trying to expand sustainably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925808\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925808\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"two local siblings sell smoothies and granola at the market every Sunday\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/sanalo_alanchazaro-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cristian and Grisela Sánalo can be found selling smoothies every Sunday at the new market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One such vendor is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sanalo2022/\">Sánalo\u003c/a>, a smoothie and snack company founded by Cristian and Grisela Sánalo, two Mexican American siblings with roots in Oakland and Hayward. The young venture is a part-time hustle for the Sánalos, who work full-time jobs and side gigs on weekdays, then set up on weekends to serve treats like toast and granola.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Living in a major city, it can be difficult to find [a feeling of community],” says Cristian Sánalo. “But the culture [at West Oakland Farmers Market] is definitely inclined to feel like a community. They’re good people who want everyone to do their thing and be successful.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sánalo’s “Green Magic” smoothie is a rich blend of chia, dates, apple, kale, pineapple, celery and spinach. And the “Apapacho” (a hot beverage made from oats, kabocha squash, ginger and cinnamon) — whose Spanish name, derived from indigenous Nahuatl, roughly translates to “tender affection” — allows customers to tap into less commonly available flavors that reflect the Sánalos’ heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If beverages aren’t your thing, there’s amazing sourdough from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/rizeupbakery/?hl=en\">Rize Up Bakery\u003c/a>, a Black-owned bakery from San Francisco that, \u003ca href=\"https://rizeupsourdough.com/pages/about\">according to founder Azikiwee Anderson\u003c/a>, was “born as a way to channel energy into something healing during the social unrest caused by the murder of George Floyd.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking for less carbs? Bassline Coffee — whose owner, Brad Katz, is \u003ca href=\"https://www.waveworksav.com/\">involved in the local music industry\u003c/a> as an audio-video engineer and first dipped into coffee-making during the pandemic — is pouring “a roast for every rhythm” and supplements his coffee company with his passion for mixtapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Don’t do caffeine? A few booths away you’ll come across \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/clandestinacocinaberkeley/?hl=en\">Clandestina Cocina\u003c/a>, a Berkeley-based Cuban eatery serving island-style soul food and classic favorites like ropa vieja (shredded steak in tomato sauce with bell peppers and onions) and the eternally-delicious Cubano sandwich. Havana-born chef Lilian Duran is happy to feed others, including Chari Parla, a Cuban American who used to work at the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My first day at the market was such an amazing, dreamlike treat to look up from my booth and see Clandestina across the way,” says Parla, originally from Miami. “I’ve been living [in Oakland] for six years, and I can count on one hand how many Cuban people I’ve met. We don’t find each other often. For me to see, smell, taste and hear all of those Cuban elements is really just warming.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the sort of feeling that Singh hopes to facilitate, often surveying customers and nearby residents about what else they would like to see. The Sunday market has featured live music and, at one point, curated open mic poetry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an effort to be inclusive, Singh has also lowered, or in some cases removed, the entrance fees for vendors in need, making it easier for non-traditional suppliers to participate. The market also donates products to \u003ca href=\"https://www.acdsal.org/farms\">Dig Deep Farms\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://westoaklandhealth.org/\">West Oakland Health Council\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1028996737152976&paipv=0&eav=AfY-Rcqphpmcxw2XqrXOeF-Er55s2YHMJsNxFrdjBL7sCfKrKHC4zSHr63ISC8UwZEo&_rdr\">Eritrean Task Force-Orthodox Church\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13925809\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13925809\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a group of friends pose for the camera while exploring the new market\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/westoakfarmersmarket_shoppers_alanchazaro.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A group of friends pose for the camera while exploring the new market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, the West Oakland Farmers Market doesn’t feel like most other farmers markets. Singh’s track record of investing in nascent, grassroots business is a strong focus, and his compassionate compass helps him navigate the market’s larger civic goals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Fernando [from Catalan Farm] is an organic farmer from Alba,” says Singh. “He teaches immigrant farmers how to grow organically. He’s the perfect example of how this market is about uplifting space to converse and support locally. It’s gonna take time to build, but we’re in it for the long haul. I’m having a blast, I love this community and these customers communing and supporting each other.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the aforementioned food hall already under construction in partnership with the developer, Ernst — who initially funded the West Oakland Farmers Market during its start-up phase before it became self-sufficient — Singh says Foragers Market hopes to continue to provide enriching economic opportunities for vendors and accessible, affordable and natural foods that meet customers wherever they’re at. It will require care, awareness and precise management — much like a field of crops, I imagine — but if done right, could yield a cornucopia of possibilities. And for many, it’s what they’ve been waiting for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s like being back home,” Johnson, the spice vendor who grew up in West Oakland, says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
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