Updated July 23, 2021 at 10:29 AM ET
The next time you pick up some California-grown carrots or melons in the grocery store, consider the curious, contested odyssey of the water that fed them. Chances are, farmers pumped that water from underground aquifers on a scale that's become unsustainable, especially as the planet heats up.
Facing an ongoing drought that is squeezing surface water supplies, farmers are extracting groundwater at higher rates to continue growing food as usual.
California's farmers probably will pump an additional 6 to 7 million acre-feet of water from their wells this year, above what they normally use, according to Josue Medellin-Azuara, a water expert at UC Merced. That quantity would cover 10,000 square miles with a foot of water, and far exceeds the amount that naturally replenishes the aquifer, even during a year with normal rainfall.
"It's a huge amount," says Steve Jackson, a farmer in Visalia who helps to manage 40,000 acres of almonds and other crops. "I'd say 90% to 95% of our crop demands this year are going to be met by groundwater."
This year, however, may mark the beginning of the end of California's great groundwater grab. The state is preparing to phase in new limits on groundwater pumping that will force painful adjustments on the state's farmers.
California is a powerhouse of food production, growing some 40% of the country's fruit, vegetables and nuts. Yet the production depends on a supply of water that's increasingly fragile and unreliable as the climate warms.
"Drought reveals the lie of a place," says Mark Arax, the Fresno-based author of "The Dreamt Land," a history of California's water conflicts. "The lie is our ambition. We've taken on too much."
In good years, an intricate system of dams, aqueducts and irrigation canals captures water from rivers and melting snow, much of it in the northern part of the state, and moves that water to fields in the wide Central Valley where most crops are grown. The system also supplies coastal cities, but agriculture remains the largest consumer of water.
This year, rivers are running low. The state's biggest reservoirs contain less than half the average amount of water, and farmers have been forced to rely on their wells.
"This year, there is no allotment, because there is no water," says Kathy Briano, referring to the amount of water that farmers are assigned for irrigation use. Briano grows almonds near the town of Porterville, and she's relying on her wells instead.

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