Trinity County is a mountainous, remote part of Northern California, and when I visited in 2017 for my California Foodways project, I learned that it’s also one of the state’s most food insecure places. Many people don’t know where their next meal is coming from, even in the best of times.
But the spring of 2020, with the state under prolonged shelter-at-home orders because of the coronavirus pandemic, is clearly not the best of times. What's happening now in Trinity County, where so many people are in need? I decided to check in with Jeffry England, whom I got to know during my trip three years ago. He runs the county's food bank.
The morning we first met, it was just after sunrise, and Jeffry and three volunteers were almost done packing a couple of trucks. The vehicles were "loaded to the gills," as Jeffry put it, with produce, prepared foods and special boxes for seniors. He cobbles the food together from a web of local, state and federal programs and delivers it once a month to distribution centers scattered throughout the county.
I rode with him in the cab of a 20-year-old truck with a rattling refrigeration unit. He was heading out to the southern part of the county on the longest of his monthly routes: 230 miles.

