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Alexis Madrigal: Welcome to Forum. I’m Alexis Madrigal. There’s a new program coming to the state this September called Doors Open California. For twenty bucks, you get access to a slate of historic places. Our own Pendarvis Harshaw wrote up the program for KQED Arts, and along with our show on Fisherman’s Wharf a couple weeks ago, we got to thinking: where are the best local tourist locations that not too many locals actually go to?
So we’ve got a couple of experts with us to talk about that. Pen Harshaw, columnist at KQED Arts. Thanks for joining us, Pen.
Pendarvis Harshaw: Hey. Good morning. How’s it going?
Alexis Madrigal: Good. Always good to talk with you, man. We’ve also got Peter Hartlaub, culture critic for the San Francisco Chronicle. Welcome, Peter.
Peter Hartlaub: Thank you so much for having me. I’m glad to be here.
Alexis Madrigal: And, of course, we want to hear from all of you out there as well. I think you’ll understand the assignment on this. Like, if someone doesn’t call in with the Ruth Bancroft Garden and Nursery in Walnut Creek, or the Dutra Dredging Museum up in Rio Vista, or Locke’s World Chinatown up in the Delta, I’ll be so disappointed. You don’t want that to happen.
So what’s a place in the Bay Area — or your hometown — that you think is worth visiting? An attraction, a hike, a beach, a place? Give us a call: 866-733-6786. That’s 866-733-6786. Email your comments and questions to forum@kqed.org. You can find us on social media — Bluesky, Instagram, etc. We’re @KQEDForum.
Pen, you wrote up this program. What did the California Preservation Foundation say they wanted to do with it?
Pendarvis Harshaw: Yeah. I really just took it from what was written on their website and got a sense of what they’re offering. Seventy different spots across the state, a number of them scattered throughout the Bay Area, where you can access them for twenty dollars. These are historic locations.
When I read about it, I thought, this is cool for the history nerd in me. Maybe a couple of people would like it. There’s so much going on in the world right now, I just wanted to offer something light. And lo and behold, it’s one of the most popular articles I’ve ever written. Thousands, hundreds of thousands of views on this piece.
And then the comments on Instagram really gave insight into why people were interested. It ranged from folks saying, “Oh, this is an opportunity to do a music video at this historic location,” to, “Oh, I can make up for that field trip I missed in middle school.”
Alexis Madrigal: That’s so funny. One of the best locations — I’ve actually been inside — is the historic Sixteenth Street Train Station in West Oakland, right off Wood Street. It’s so interesting. It’s been added to the National Register of Historic Places. People are fighting to keep it around. Have you ever been, Pen?
Pendarvis Harshaw: Oh, multiple times. My fondest memory in there is recording a short film called Dear Beloved, which was produced by KQED. It’s about three mothers who’ve lost children to gun violence, offering letters to the memories of their lost sons.
Recording in there, having that beautiful space filled with that spirit and emotion, working with the collectives Be-Imaginative and the group SOL Development — it was a beautiful experience. The video ended up being shown widely and even won an Emmy. But beyond that, I’ve also been there for a boxing match.
Alexis Madrigal: Oh my God. Yeah, it’s kind of everything in there at some level. My understanding is it’s largely been closed off for events, but people used to film music videos there. They called it the Grand Central Station of the West. It was the terminus of the Transcontinental Railroad. It was also a major site of Black worker organizing. It’s one of those places you just need to see — not only for the history, but also because the inside is visually stunning.
Pendarvis Harshaw: Yeah. You mentioned music videos — E-40, Keak da Sneak, and Lil Jon filmed Tell Me When to Go there. That’s monumental. And at the same time, hundreds of thousands of Black folks came up from the South during the Great Migration, came through those doors, and started life anew in the Bay Area. It’s definitely hallowed ground.
Alexis Madrigal: You know, the other funny story I heard about that place is that HBO wanted to film a show about World War II. They fixed up the train station — not to look pristine, but to look like a busted-up World War II train station in Europe. What a strange thing. That’s one reason why it’s partially restored, but not all the way. And then, of course, it’s been years since then, so there’s been this kind of natural decay.
But it’s not exactly in pristine condition.
Pendarvis Harshaw: No, it’s not. But there are always plans in development.
Alexis Madrigal: Yeah, of course. Another spot you highlighted that I’ve been to — and it’s so beautiful — is the Berkeley City Club. Tell us about that.
Pendarvis Harshaw: Yeah, I’ve never been. That’s the field trip I missed. I’ve obviously been around it and knew about it, but I’ve never gone in. So how is it? Tell me.
Alexis Madrigal: Well, I joined because I was trying to learn how to swim. And the thing about that place: it has the most beautiful swimming pool — maybe in the entire state. It’s gorgeous. Designed by Julia Morgan, who also designed Hearst Castle. People know her for that, but she did so much more.
It’s kind of like Hearst Castle in miniature. The pool has these massive windows. It’s warm. It’s just a really beautiful place. And of course, they host all kinds of events there too.
Let me bring in Peter Hartlaub, because I know you’re a big fan of being a tourist in your hometown as well. What’s the most made-fun-of, but actually fun, place in the Bay Area?
Peter Hartlaub: I think Pier 39. I’ve gone full circle on Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf. I used to make fun of it. My blood pressure would rise if I got near it. And now, if I have a week off, there’s a good chance I’ll go up there. I’ll check out Musée Mécanique with all the historic arcade machines, get a double Irish coffee at Buena Vista Cafe — which you can get to go — then head to Aquatic Park and watch the swimmers.
There’s so much interesting stuff to do. Tourism is a misunderstood part of our community, and I’ve just completely done a 180.
Alexis Madrigal: And you’ve truly crisscrossed the city doing all these different things for the Chronicle — hikes across the city, taking all the bus lines. What’s a place that’s not really known as a tourist attraction, but has that feel?
Peter Hartlaub: A big one is our ferry system. You don’t think of it as something you do for fun. It’s a commuter ferry. Maybe you think about going down to Fisherman’s Wharf and paying fifty dollars for a Bay cruise. But you can pay $4.70 and do a loop to Jack London Square and Alameda and back. It’s the same sights, it’s relaxing, and they sell beer on the ferry. Your blood pressure will drop.
No one thinks to do it as a fun thing. Take the ferry out to Vallejo. Nine bucks. Downtown is interesting, there’s historic Mare Island — a lot to do. Just hopping on the ferry is a great outing.
Pendarvis Harshaw: I echo that. I did the Vallejo one for the first time this year, and I’m fascinated by new perspectives of the Bay Area. I had never seen the water that way. And yeah, Vallejo gets all the love. I’m with it.
Alexis Madrigal: Same thing when I went out to Angel Island with my daughter. We visited the immigrant detention center for the history lesson, but we were also in this incredibly beautiful location. That’s what’s most jarring about Angel Island — the complex, difficult history, and at the same time these stunning new views of the Bay.
Peter Hartlaub: Exactly. It makes you think differently about things. Same with theaters and bookstores. We’ll make a day out of going to a destination restaurant — like in St. Helena. Why don’t we do the same for theaters and bookstores? Going to the Grand Lake Theater and then Walden Pond Books is a really awesome day. You’ve got an organ player at the Grand Lake. It’s an experience, just like those fancy restaurants we plan for.
Alexis Madrigal: Man after my own heart, Peter Hartlaub. We’re talking about being a tourist in your own hometown, joined by Peter Hartlaub, culture critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, and Pendarvis Harshaw, columnist with KQED Arts.
We want to hear from you. Time to come clean: I’ve never been to Alcatraz. What’s a Bay Area iconic location that everyone talks about but you’ve never visited? What’s kept you from going?
The number is 866-733-6786. That’s 866-733-6786. The email is forum@kqed.org. I’m Alexis Madrigal. Stay tuned.
