Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee
Beyond the Fruit Bomb: The New California Wine by Jon Bonné
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Myrow","firstName":"Rachael","lastName":"Myrow","slug":"rachael-myrow","email":"rmyrow@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":["news"],"title":"Senior Editor of KQED's Silicon Valley News Desk","bio":"Rachael Myrow is Senior Editor of KQED's Silicon Valley News Desk. You can hear her work on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/search?query=Rachael%20Myrow&page=1\">NPR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://theworld.org/people/rachael-myrow\">The World\u003c/a>, WBUR's \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/search?q=Rachael%20Myrow\">\u003ci>Here & Now\u003c/i>\u003c/a> and the BBC. \u003c/i>She also guest hosts for KQED's \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/tag/rachael-myrow\">Forum\u003c/a>\u003c/i>. Over the years, she's talked with Kamau Bell, David Byrne, Kamala Harris, Tony Kushner, Armistead Maupin, Van Dyke Parks, Arnold Schwarzenegger and Tommie Smith, among others.\r\n\r\nBefore all this, she hosted \u003cem>The California Report\u003c/em> for 7+ years, reporting on topics like \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/rmyrow/on-a-mission-to-reform-assisted-living\">assisted living facilities\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/alltechconsidered/2014/12/01/367703789/amazon-unleashes-robot-army-to-send-your-holiday-packages-faster\">robot takeover\u003c/a> of Amazon, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/50822/in-search-of-the-chocolate-persimmon\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">chocolate persimmons\u003c/a>.\r\n\r\nAwards? Sure: Peabody, Edward R. Murrow, Regional Edward R. Murrow, RTNDA, Northern California RTNDA, SPJ Northern California Chapter, LA Press Club, Golden Mic. Prior to joining KQED, Rachael worked in Los Angeles at KPCC and Marketplace. She holds degrees in English and journalism from UC Berkeley (where she got her start in public radio on KALX-FM).\r\n\r\nOutside of the studio, you'll find Rachael hiking Bay Area trails and whipping up Instagram-ready meals in her kitchen.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/87bf8cb5874e045cdff430523a6d48b1?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"rachaelmyrow","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":"https://www.linkedin.com/in/rachaelmyrow/","sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"news","roles":["edit_others_posts","editor"]},{"site":"futureofyou","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"stateofhealth","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"science","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"forum","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Rachael Myrow | KQED","description":"Senior Editor of KQED's Silicon Valley News Desk","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/87bf8cb5874e045cdff430523a6d48b1?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/87bf8cb5874e045cdff430523a6d48b1?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rachael-myrow"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_75055":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_75055","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"75055","score":null,"sort":[1387302471000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","title":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","publishDate":1387302471,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Lots of beautiful cookbooks from Bay Area restaurants, chefs, and writers are gracing our shelves this year. But how to match the perfect gift to just the right gift-ee? We've paired our favorite food and wine books with those most likely to appreciate them. And remember the great benefit of giving cookbooks: anyone to whom you give one of these great books should feel compelled to cook from it for you at least once. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Fancy Diners Who Actually Use Their Kitchen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Kinch\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\" alt=\"Manresa: An Edible Reflection by David Kinch\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75178\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps (lucky you!) these are your in-laws or longtime family friends, these well-heeled folks who have actually, gracefully, splattered their copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651267/kqedorg-20\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a> with use. Want to keep getting invited to their wonderful dinner parties? Splurge on a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/a>, by chef David Kinch. This is a big, show-stopping doorstopper of a book, with 300+ pages lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos by Eric Wolfinger. The recipes are accompanied by Kinch's thoughts on the hyper-seasonal, hyper-local (the restaurant has its own dedicated micro-farm) cuisine he's been turning out since 2002 at his renowned Los Gatos restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\" alt=\"Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75175\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or are your recipients strictly city people? Instead of sending them down to the peninsula, wrap up the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson. Unlike most chefs, who rely on professional co-authors to shape their stories into evocative (or at least serviceable) prose, Patterson wrote his own text (and recipes), so nothing gets in the way of his strong personality and vision as he delves into the philosophies at work in his North Beach restaurant. The recipes, such as they are, are essays in themselves, densely written in small-font corona type alongside detailed origin stories by Patterson. Each recipe is scaled to precise tasting-menu size, with no corners cut for sous-chef-deprived home cooks; just making the restaurant's cultured butter takes more than a dozen steps and the better part of a week. Still, if your friends or family like a challenge in the kitchen, it doesn't get more sensual-cerebral than this. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Cheese Heads\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75177\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something old, something new, something goat, something blue: For those who just can't get enough of that wonderful stuff, the top contender for dairy lovers is, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a>. Owners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley tell their inspiring story of how a couple of Berkeley chefs (Smith at Chez Panisse, Conley at Bette's Oceanview Diner) ended up as the doyennes of Northern California cheese, making their own award-winning cheeses while spreading the good word about the culinary artisans and dairy farmers of West Marin and beyond. It includes a comprehensive set of recipes, many inspired by the menu at Sidekick, their Ferry Building prepared-foods counter, covering everything from egg creams and frosty flavored milks to cheese plates, cheese pairings and condiments, salads, sandwiches, and all manner of gooey, cheesy delights like crunchy Fricos (\u003cem>recipe below\u003c/em>), Smokey Blue and Bacon Souffle, and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Mushrooms and Spinach. (For more on the book, check out Brie Mazurek's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/\"> CUESA interview with Sue Conley\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Pinterest-ing Cook\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>One Good Dish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Tanis\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\" alt=\"One Good Dish by David Tanis\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75195\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Your niece is just out of college and IKEA-furnishing her first apartment. She loves to Instagram, she loves to pin, and she wants her food to look just as good as it tastes, but she's still figuring out her way around the kitchen. Any of Ina Gartner's easy, reliable books might feed her and her friends well, but for the hip young things among us, Ina is the mom jeans of cookbook authors. Show her you're still the cool aunt or uncle with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">One Good Dish\u003c/a> by David Tanis. Here are appealingly simple recipes with plenty of casual style but no fuss, showing there's no need to spend a whole paycheck just to get a shareable dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Bake Sale Baker\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113831/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\" alt=\"The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of Napa's Model Bakery, the recipe for their signature English muffins--so fat! so fluffy!--alone would be worth the price. But this bright, cheery baking book includes recipes for 74 more all-American favorites, starting the day off right with Cranberry-Buttermilk Scones, carroty-coconutty Morning Glory Muffins, cinnamon-sugar Morning Buns, and almond-crunchy Bear Claws, then moving on to Red Velvet Cupcakes, Carmelita Bars, triple-decker Chocolate Mousse Cake, Peach Streusel Pie, and more. (Lots of useful holiday recipes, too, from Festive Sugar Cookies, Gingerbread Cookies, Gingerbread Houses, and a chocolate-and-coffee Buche de Noel.) Prolific cookbook author Rick Rodgers provides easy-to-follow, well-tested translations of the bakery's recipes for home cooks, while mother-daughter owners Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen describe how they turned this historic bakery into a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Chocolate Chemist\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579655114/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Alice Medrich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\" alt=\"Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker’s Guide to Chocolate by Alice Medrich\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>62 percent. 70 percent. 82 percent. Now that nearly all high-end (and plenty of supermarket) brands of eating and baking chocolate are labeled with their percentage of cocoa solids, home bakers can increasingly bake with the precision of professional pastry chefs. Alice Medrich, the Bay Area's longtime queen of chocolate, has thoroughly revised and updated her 2003 classic \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651607/kqedorg-20\">Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate\u003c/a> to reflect the changes in today's chocolate. Explaining how the chemistry of different chocolate percentages can affect finished recipes, Medrich takes the guesswork out of chocolate dessert-making and ensures top-quality results every time. Plus, she doesn't subscribe to darker-is-better snobbery; instead, you'll find plenty of recipes working with good quality milk and even white chocolate here. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Grain Brain\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Chad Robertson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75180\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you even have to ask? For the bread baking geek in your life, this holiday season is just a countdown to the publishing date of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a>, Chad Robertson's follow-up to his exquisitely detailed, method-driven \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\"> Tartine Bread\u003c/a>. Like so many of his chef compatriots, Robertson has moved beyond French culinary influences, heading north to discover the dark, cold-weather grains and baking traditions in Germany and Scandinavia. Subtitled \u003cem>Modern Ancient Classic Whole\u003c/em>, this book goes funky and deep with recipes for dense loaves based not just on whole grain flours but on sprouted whole grains and seeds as well as cooked-grain porridges. Next year's must-have party snack? Robertson's stunning homemade crispbreads, whose doughs are flavored with whole herbs and spices then thinned through a pasta machine to great stained-glass effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this isn't a gluten-free book (Robertson uses plenty of rye and barley), it does cover a lot of interesting grains, including emmer, kamut, einkorn, and spelt (all precursors to modern wheat strains) to inspire those looking to bake with options beyond standard supermarket flours. The book isn't limited to breads and crackers, either; there are a number of surprising, inventive sweets, including Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies, Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies, Bohemian Apple Layer Cake, Lemon-Poppy Seed Kefir Pound Cake, and even whole-grain versions of classic French pastries like palmiers, pithiviers, sables, and eclairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The DIY Carnivore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743434/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf’s Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happily, sourcing locally pastured, humanely raised meats isn't difficult in the Bay Area anymore. Now, your kitchen table bragging rights come from what you can do with these well-bred meats. Husband and wife team Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller of the Fatted Calf share their secrets for (safely) making delicious charcuterie at home, along with a delectable number of dolled-up, rolled-up, flavored-up roasted, grilled, and braised meat dishes. Salt, spices, care, pork fat, and time will get you through most of the recipes in this book. (For more on the book, check out Kate Williams' \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/\">Bay Area Bites interview with Boetticher and Miller\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Wine Locavore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743000/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Jon Bonne \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonne\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75174\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonne explores the new world of California winemaking, talking to a current crop of winemakers who are more interested in making balanced, restrained, and food-friendly wines than high-alcohol, big-fruit Cabs and Chards that made California a player on the international wine scene in past years. Using offbeat varietals and, often, more natural techniques, these growers and winemakers are opening up California wines to a new generation, and Bonne is a staunch advocate with a clear, well-informed style that's accessible to both interested drinkers and dedicated collectors. (For more on the book, check out \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/\">Rachael Myrow’s interview with Jon Bonne\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cheese Fricos\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Chronicle Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditional fricos are thin, crisp disks formed from small mounds of grated Parmesan, but you can make fricos from most hard-aged grating cheeses. Some folks like to add flour or spices to fricos, but we don’t. We think the best fricos are made simply of cheese and used as a crispy finish to a salad or a bowl of polenta. It’s easiest to make fricos in your oven using parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet as the liner for a metal baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75176\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 16 fricos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (115 gms) Parmesan cheese, grated (or any hard grating cheese)\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 375°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Use a tablespoon to measure a spoonful of the grated cheese. With your fingers, shape the cheese into mounds, arranged about 4 in/10 cm apart.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake just until the fricos begin to color, turning golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. It’s easy to burn them, so as soon as you notice them darken and smell their fragrance, take them out of the oven. Let them cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes and then use a metal spatula to transfer the fricos to a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you like, you can make these up to 2 days ahead. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot with wax paper between them so they don’t stick together.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Warm Mocha Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks of nonstop shortbread testing produced an unorthodox surprise: perfect shortbread made with melted butter. That shortbread became an exquisitely crunchy and flavorful base for lemon bars, a crust for cheesecake, and, ultimately, my favorite sweet tart crust. I even bake brownie batter on top of it. This remarkable crust barely shrinks in the pan, so there is no need to weight or even prick it before baking. To ensure that the bottom remains crunchy, bake the crust fully, to a deep golden brown, before pouring in the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time I was playing with the new tart crust, I was experimenting with different cocoas, tasting and comparing natural and Dutch-process in all kinds of recipes. Voilà, rich warm cocoa custard in the simplest crust. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"1000\" height=\"784\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 tart, serves 8 to 10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Crust\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Filling\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (\u003cem>see Chocolate Note\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder (such as Medaglia d’Oro), or 1½ teaspoons instant coffee powder or crystals\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the tart crust: Mix the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour and mix just until well blended. Don’t worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of the dough very thinly and evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the filling: Place the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture is blended and smooth and begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat and stir in the espresso powder and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg thoroughly into the hot chocolate mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the filling into the hot crust and turn off the oven. Leave the tart in the oven until it quivers like tender Jell-O in the center when the pan is nudged, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Variation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Espresso Walnut Tart:\u003c/strong> The same tart in a walnut cookie crust produces a subtler but still delicious effect. You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts—then I would omit the espresso powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce the butter to 6 tablespoons (85 grams) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt, and vanilla. In a food processor, pulverize 1/3 cup (35 grams) walnut pieces with 3/4 cup (105 grams) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour. Proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEither natural or Dutch-process cocoa works well here. The former has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while the latter has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. You choose.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"How to match this season's best cookbooks with the special friends and family on your gift list? Our holiday cookbook guide offers the most mouthwatering books from the Bay Area's favorite food and wine writers. Includes recipes for Parmesan Fricos and Warm Mocha Tart. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1387395864,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":2429},"headData":{"title":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee | KQED","description":"How to match this season's best cookbooks with the special friends and family on your gift list? Our holiday cookbook guide offers the most mouthwatering books from the Bay Area's favorite food and wine writers. Includes recipes for Parmesan Fricos and Warm Mocha Tart. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","datePublished":"2013-12-17T17:47:51.000Z","dateModified":"2013-12-18T19:44:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"75055 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=75055","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/17/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee/","disqusTitle":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","path":"/bayareabites/75055/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Lots of beautiful cookbooks from Bay Area restaurants, chefs, and writers are gracing our shelves this year. But how to match the perfect gift to just the right gift-ee? We've paired our favorite food and wine books with those most likely to appreciate them. And remember the great benefit of giving cookbooks: anyone to whom you give one of these great books should feel compelled to cook from it for you at least once. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Fancy Diners Who Actually Use Their Kitchen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Kinch\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\" alt=\"Manresa: An Edible Reflection by David Kinch\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75178\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps (lucky you!) these are your in-laws or longtime family friends, these well-heeled folks who have actually, gracefully, splattered their copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651267/kqedorg-20\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a> with use. Want to keep getting invited to their wonderful dinner parties? Splurge on a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/a>, by chef David Kinch. This is a big, show-stopping doorstopper of a book, with 300+ pages lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos by Eric Wolfinger. The recipes are accompanied by Kinch's thoughts on the hyper-seasonal, hyper-local (the restaurant has its own dedicated micro-farm) cuisine he's been turning out since 2002 at his renowned Los Gatos restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\" alt=\"Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75175\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or are your recipients strictly city people? Instead of sending them down to the peninsula, wrap up the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson. Unlike most chefs, who rely on professional co-authors to shape their stories into evocative (or at least serviceable) prose, Patterson wrote his own text (and recipes), so nothing gets in the way of his strong personality and vision as he delves into the philosophies at work in his North Beach restaurant. The recipes, such as they are, are essays in themselves, densely written in small-font corona type alongside detailed origin stories by Patterson. Each recipe is scaled to precise tasting-menu size, with no corners cut for sous-chef-deprived home cooks; just making the restaurant's cultured butter takes more than a dozen steps and the better part of a week. Still, if your friends or family like a challenge in the kitchen, it doesn't get more sensual-cerebral than this. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Cheese Heads\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75177\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something old, something new, something goat, something blue: For those who just can't get enough of that wonderful stuff, the top contender for dairy lovers is, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a>. Owners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley tell their inspiring story of how a couple of Berkeley chefs (Smith at Chez Panisse, Conley at Bette's Oceanview Diner) ended up as the doyennes of Northern California cheese, making their own award-winning cheeses while spreading the good word about the culinary artisans and dairy farmers of West Marin and beyond. It includes a comprehensive set of recipes, many inspired by the menu at Sidekick, their Ferry Building prepared-foods counter, covering everything from egg creams and frosty flavored milks to cheese plates, cheese pairings and condiments, salads, sandwiches, and all manner of gooey, cheesy delights like crunchy Fricos (\u003cem>recipe below\u003c/em>), Smokey Blue and Bacon Souffle, and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Mushrooms and Spinach. (For more on the book, check out Brie Mazurek's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/\"> CUESA interview with Sue Conley\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Pinterest-ing Cook\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>One Good Dish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Tanis\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\" alt=\"One Good Dish by David Tanis\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75195\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Your niece is just out of college and IKEA-furnishing her first apartment. She loves to Instagram, she loves to pin, and she wants her food to look just as good as it tastes, but she's still figuring out her way around the kitchen. Any of Ina Gartner's easy, reliable books might feed her and her friends well, but for the hip young things among us, Ina is the mom jeans of cookbook authors. Show her you're still the cool aunt or uncle with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">One Good Dish\u003c/a> by David Tanis. Here are appealingly simple recipes with plenty of casual style but no fuss, showing there's no need to spend a whole paycheck just to get a shareable dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Bake Sale Baker\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113831/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\" alt=\"The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of Napa's Model Bakery, the recipe for their signature English muffins--so fat! so fluffy!--alone would be worth the price. But this bright, cheery baking book includes recipes for 74 more all-American favorites, starting the day off right with Cranberry-Buttermilk Scones, carroty-coconutty Morning Glory Muffins, cinnamon-sugar Morning Buns, and almond-crunchy Bear Claws, then moving on to Red Velvet Cupcakes, Carmelita Bars, triple-decker Chocolate Mousse Cake, Peach Streusel Pie, and more. (Lots of useful holiday recipes, too, from Festive Sugar Cookies, Gingerbread Cookies, Gingerbread Houses, and a chocolate-and-coffee Buche de Noel.) Prolific cookbook author Rick Rodgers provides easy-to-follow, well-tested translations of the bakery's recipes for home cooks, while mother-daughter owners Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen describe how they turned this historic bakery into a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Chocolate Chemist\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579655114/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Alice Medrich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\" alt=\"Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker’s Guide to Chocolate by Alice Medrich\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>62 percent. 70 percent. 82 percent. Now that nearly all high-end (and plenty of supermarket) brands of eating and baking chocolate are labeled with their percentage of cocoa solids, home bakers can increasingly bake with the precision of professional pastry chefs. Alice Medrich, the Bay Area's longtime queen of chocolate, has thoroughly revised and updated her 2003 classic \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651607/kqedorg-20\">Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate\u003c/a> to reflect the changes in today's chocolate. Explaining how the chemistry of different chocolate percentages can affect finished recipes, Medrich takes the guesswork out of chocolate dessert-making and ensures top-quality results every time. Plus, she doesn't subscribe to darker-is-better snobbery; instead, you'll find plenty of recipes working with good quality milk and even white chocolate here. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Grain Brain\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Chad Robertson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75180\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you even have to ask? For the bread baking geek in your life, this holiday season is just a countdown to the publishing date of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a>, Chad Robertson's follow-up to his exquisitely detailed, method-driven \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\"> Tartine Bread\u003c/a>. Like so many of his chef compatriots, Robertson has moved beyond French culinary influences, heading north to discover the dark, cold-weather grains and baking traditions in Germany and Scandinavia. Subtitled \u003cem>Modern Ancient Classic Whole\u003c/em>, this book goes funky and deep with recipes for dense loaves based not just on whole grain flours but on sprouted whole grains and seeds as well as cooked-grain porridges. Next year's must-have party snack? Robertson's stunning homemade crispbreads, whose doughs are flavored with whole herbs and spices then thinned through a pasta machine to great stained-glass effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this isn't a gluten-free book (Robertson uses plenty of rye and barley), it does cover a lot of interesting grains, including emmer, kamut, einkorn, and spelt (all precursors to modern wheat strains) to inspire those looking to bake with options beyond standard supermarket flours. The book isn't limited to breads and crackers, either; there are a number of surprising, inventive sweets, including Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies, Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies, Bohemian Apple Layer Cake, Lemon-Poppy Seed Kefir Pound Cake, and even whole-grain versions of classic French pastries like palmiers, pithiviers, sables, and eclairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The DIY Carnivore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743434/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf’s Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happily, sourcing locally pastured, humanely raised meats isn't difficult in the Bay Area anymore. Now, your kitchen table bragging rights come from what you can do with these well-bred meats. Husband and wife team Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller of the Fatted Calf share their secrets for (safely) making delicious charcuterie at home, along with a delectable number of dolled-up, rolled-up, flavored-up roasted, grilled, and braised meat dishes. Salt, spices, care, pork fat, and time will get you through most of the recipes in this book. (For more on the book, check out Kate Williams' \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/\">Bay Area Bites interview with Boetticher and Miller\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Wine Locavore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743000/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Jon Bonne \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonne\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75174\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonne explores the new world of California winemaking, talking to a current crop of winemakers who are more interested in making balanced, restrained, and food-friendly wines than high-alcohol, big-fruit Cabs and Chards that made California a player on the international wine scene in past years. Using offbeat varietals and, often, more natural techniques, these growers and winemakers are opening up California wines to a new generation, and Bonne is a staunch advocate with a clear, well-informed style that's accessible to both interested drinkers and dedicated collectors. (For more on the book, check out \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/\">Rachael Myrow’s interview with Jon Bonne\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cheese Fricos\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Chronicle Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditional fricos are thin, crisp disks formed from small mounds of grated Parmesan, but you can make fricos from most hard-aged grating cheeses. Some folks like to add flour or spices to fricos, but we don’t. We think the best fricos are made simply of cheese and used as a crispy finish to a salad or a bowl of polenta. It’s easiest to make fricos in your oven using parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet as the liner for a metal baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75176\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 16 fricos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (115 gms) Parmesan cheese, grated (or any hard grating cheese)\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 375°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Use a tablespoon to measure a spoonful of the grated cheese. With your fingers, shape the cheese into mounds, arranged about 4 in/10 cm apart.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake just until the fricos begin to color, turning golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. It’s easy to burn them, so as soon as you notice them darken and smell their fragrance, take them out of the oven. Let them cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes and then use a metal spatula to transfer the fricos to a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you like, you can make these up to 2 days ahead. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot with wax paper between them so they don’t stick together.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Warm Mocha Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks of nonstop shortbread testing produced an unorthodox surprise: perfect shortbread made with melted butter. That shortbread became an exquisitely crunchy and flavorful base for lemon bars, a crust for cheesecake, and, ultimately, my favorite sweet tart crust. I even bake brownie batter on top of it. This remarkable crust barely shrinks in the pan, so there is no need to weight or even prick it before baking. To ensure that the bottom remains crunchy, bake the crust fully, to a deep golden brown, before pouring in the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time I was playing with the new tart crust, I was experimenting with different cocoas, tasting and comparing natural and Dutch-process in all kinds of recipes. Voilà, rich warm cocoa custard in the simplest crust. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"1000\" height=\"784\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 tart, serves 8 to 10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Crust\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Filling\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (\u003cem>see Chocolate Note\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder (such as Medaglia d’Oro), or 1½ teaspoons instant coffee powder or crystals\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the tart crust: Mix the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour and mix just until well blended. Don’t worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of the dough very thinly and evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the filling: Place the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture is blended and smooth and begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat and stir in the espresso powder and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg thoroughly into the hot chocolate mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the filling into the hot crust and turn off the oven. Leave the tart in the oven until it quivers like tender Jell-O in the center when the pan is nudged, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Variation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Espresso Walnut Tart:\u003c/strong> The same tart in a walnut cookie crust produces a subtler but still delicious effect. You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts—then I would omit the espresso powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce the butter to 6 tablespoons (85 grams) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt, and vanilla. In a food processor, pulverize 1/3 cup (35 grams) walnut pieces with 3/4 cup (105 grams) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour. Proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEither natural or Dutch-process cocoa works well here. The former has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while the latter has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. You choose.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/75055/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_600","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_14758","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_2763","bayareabites_1531","bayareabites_1684","bayareabites_11545","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_12791","bayareabites_12602"],"featImg":"bayareabites_75205","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_70795":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_70795","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"70795","score":null,"sort":[1382964614000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne","title":"Beyond the Fruit Bomb: The New California Wine by Jon Bonné","publishDate":1382964614,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"no\" src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/116900251&color=ff6600&auto_play=false&show_artwork=true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems like there are three classes of wine consumers: those happy to buy Two Buck Chuck at Trader Joe’s; a small, monied group of aesthetes quibbling over the wine list at top restaurants; and a vast middle class picking out something with a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/11/drinking-with-your-eyes-how-wine-labels-trick-us-into-buying/\">pretty label\u003c/a> at the supermarket for $15-30 dollars. Jon Bonné professes to write for all three types. He’s the wine editor of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/wine/\">\u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and he’s just come out with a book called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-New-California-Wine-Revolution/dp/1607743000\">\u003cem>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/new-ca-wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/new-ca-wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-72756\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What can there possibly be to say about California wine that’s new? “The reason I sort of set out to write this was I realized there’s an entire generation of winemakers who people, for the most part, haven’t really heard of,\" Bonné told \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiareport.org/\">The California Report\u003c/a>. \"What they were doing was not only interesting and important and of course delicious, but it was really as significant, culturally, as what the first modern generation of pioneers did -- the Robert Mondavis and the Warren Winiarskis -- in terms of looking at California with a global perspective, seeing that this was an amazing place to grow wine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might be thinking \"Hasn't that been well established by now?\" Yes and no. A lot depends these days on how you come down about the trend toward making \"fruit bombs.\" That is to say, big, jammy, fruit-forward wines full of alcohol and sugar dominate the California wine market and have for years. That's put off sophisticated palates, if not the wider drinking public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/jon-bonne1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/jon-bonne1000.jpg\" alt=\"Author Jon Bonné. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72755\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Jon Bonné. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Count Bonné among the sophisticates. Fruit bombs, he says, \"are very appealing to folks who are just getting into wine, and of course, it’s big, it’s expressive. You can kind of pick out big fruit flavors in it. But ultimately, when you look at the grand culture of wine, the reasons that significant areas have been significant -- it’s because they speak with a specific sense of place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Folks in the wine world refer to that as \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em> -- the taste of the earth and climate in a particular place, as expressed in a bottle of wine. But given that wine grapes are growing all over the state now, and vintners mix and match for taste and cost, how is a wine drinker who wants to taste what a region tastes like know he’s getting terroir?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Even the French didn’t find these perfect little pieces of land,\" Bonné says. \"There was politics involved. There was convenience involved.” As in which places were ideal for sending wines to market in Paris. “\u003cem>Terroir\u003c/em> is always influenced by man. It's no different here. This is in no way to question that Napa Valley is an amazing place to grow grapes, because it absolutely is, but it is not sort of divine providence that Napa Valley is the best place in the world to grow grapes and Lodi isn’t, or the Sierra foothills aren’t. It’s just that Napa had really good marketing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonné says he's hoping \u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em> brings attention to the state's lesser known wine regions -- and winemakers -- that are just on the verge of blowing up in terms of consumer awareness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72757\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Prudy-Fox1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Prudy-Fox1000.jpg\" alt='Prudy Foxx of Corralitos (near Santa Cruz) has been nicknamed the \"grape whisperer, discovering neglected plantings, and matching grapes to the right winemaker. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro' width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prudy Foxx of Corralitos (near Santa Cruz) has been nicknamed the \"grape whisperer, discovering neglected plantings, and matching grapes to the right winemaker. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, he says, winemakers are looking for great places with great soil that “just happened to have been overlooked in the past,” places like the southern Santa Cruz Mountains. One of the people Bonné profiles in the book is Bonny Doon Vineyard alum Prudy Foxx. She's been nicknamed the \"Grape Whisperer.\" She specializes in discovering neglected plantings, helping farmers improve their technique, and matching grapes to the right winemaker. Bonné writes Foxx is determined to get the region back on the map, but her day to day life is about solving problems for local winemakers. \"Nobody calls me because they're happy,\" she tells him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72763\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Mansfield1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Mansfield1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ron Mansfield's nickname is the "Johnny Grapeseed" of the Sierra Foothills. Photo: Ten Speed Press / Erik Castro\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72763\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ron Mansfield's nickname is the \"Johnny Grapeseed\" of the Sierra Foothills. Photo: Ten Speed Press / Erik Castro\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also profiled in the book: Ron Mansfield of Placerville, a place known as much for its apple orchards as for its grapes. Mansfield realized the local, granite-rich soil many were using for Zinfadel naturally lends itself to Grenache and Gamay Noir, grapes that lead to Rhone style wines. He also differs from the California norm in the way he grows his grapes. Head-trained vines are trellised to a single wooden stake. Mansifeld jokingly calls it the \"Mansfield Vertical Cordon,\" but it's a practice commonly seen in the Rhone -- as well as old-time California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farming techniques have changed in a number of other ways. Many winemakers are thinking seriously, critically, about where, exactly, they grow certain varietals. They're backing away from heavy use of new oak. Ripeness levels are drifting downward, especially with varietals that are prone to accumulating sugar to begin with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em> is more of a coffee table book than it is a reference guide, and yet it's more of a reference guide than your typical coffee table book. It's really a compendium of bite-sized introductions to winemakers trying to take California in a different stylistic direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time and again, as Bonné arrives at a winemaker's table, he notes a bottle of Old World wine on the table. Bonné is, of course, self-selecting people who share his European-biased palette. But this also serves as a signal to people who've dismissed California fruit bombs to reconsider: come on back, he seems to be saying. The wine is fine.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Bonné says he's hoping \u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em> brings attention to the state's lesser known wine regions -- and winemakers -- that are just on the verge of blowing up in terms of consumer awareness.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1383063864,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://w.soundcloud.com/player/"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1013},"headData":{"title":"Beyond the Fruit Bomb: The New California Wine by Jon Bonné | KQED","description":"Bonné says he's hoping The New California Wine brings attention to the state's lesser known wine regions -- and winemakers -- that are just on the verge of blowing up in terms of consumer awareness.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Beyond the Fruit Bomb: The New California Wine by Jon Bonné","datePublished":"2013-10-28T12:50:14.000Z","dateModified":"2013-10-29T16:24:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"70795 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=70795","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/","disqusTitle":"Beyond the Fruit Bomb: The New California Wine by Jon Bonné","path":"/bayareabites/70795/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" scrolling=\"no\" frameborder=\"no\" src=\"https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https%3A//api.soundcloud.com/tracks/116900251&color=ff6600&auto_play=false&show_artwork=true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems like there are three classes of wine consumers: those happy to buy Two Buck Chuck at Trader Joe’s; a small, monied group of aesthetes quibbling over the wine list at top restaurants; and a vast middle class picking out something with a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/11/drinking-with-your-eyes-how-wine-labels-trick-us-into-buying/\">pretty label\u003c/a> at the supermarket for $15-30 dollars. Jon Bonné professes to write for all three types. He’s the wine editor of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/wine/\">\u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>\u003c/a> and he’s just come out with a book called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-New-California-Wine-Revolution/dp/1607743000\">\u003cem>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/new-ca-wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/new-ca-wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-72756\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What can there possibly be to say about California wine that’s new? “The reason I sort of set out to write this was I realized there’s an entire generation of winemakers who people, for the most part, haven’t really heard of,\" Bonné told \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiareport.org/\">The California Report\u003c/a>. \"What they were doing was not only interesting and important and of course delicious, but it was really as significant, culturally, as what the first modern generation of pioneers did -- the Robert Mondavis and the Warren Winiarskis -- in terms of looking at California with a global perspective, seeing that this was an amazing place to grow wine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You might be thinking \"Hasn't that been well established by now?\" Yes and no. A lot depends these days on how you come down about the trend toward making \"fruit bombs.\" That is to say, big, jammy, fruit-forward wines full of alcohol and sugar dominate the California wine market and have for years. That's put off sophisticated palates, if not the wider drinking public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/jon-bonne1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/jon-bonne1000.jpg\" alt=\"Author Jon Bonné. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72755\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Jon Bonné. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Count Bonné among the sophisticates. Fruit bombs, he says, \"are very appealing to folks who are just getting into wine, and of course, it’s big, it’s expressive. You can kind of pick out big fruit flavors in it. But ultimately, when you look at the grand culture of wine, the reasons that significant areas have been significant -- it’s because they speak with a specific sense of place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Folks in the wine world refer to that as \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em> -- the taste of the earth and climate in a particular place, as expressed in a bottle of wine. But given that wine grapes are growing all over the state now, and vintners mix and match for taste and cost, how is a wine drinker who wants to taste what a region tastes like know he’s getting terroir?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Even the French didn’t find these perfect little pieces of land,\" Bonné says. \"There was politics involved. There was convenience involved.” As in which places were ideal for sending wines to market in Paris. “\u003cem>Terroir\u003c/em> is always influenced by man. It's no different here. This is in no way to question that Napa Valley is an amazing place to grow grapes, because it absolutely is, but it is not sort of divine providence that Napa Valley is the best place in the world to grow grapes and Lodi isn’t, or the Sierra foothills aren’t. It’s just that Napa had really good marketing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonné says he's hoping \u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em> brings attention to the state's lesser known wine regions -- and winemakers -- that are just on the verge of blowing up in terms of consumer awareness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72757\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Prudy-Fox1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Prudy-Fox1000.jpg\" alt='Prudy Foxx of Corralitos (near Santa Cruz) has been nicknamed the \"grape whisperer, discovering neglected plantings, and matching grapes to the right winemaker. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro' width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prudy Foxx of Corralitos (near Santa Cruz) has been nicknamed the \"grape whisperer, discovering neglected plantings, and matching grapes to the right winemaker. Photo: Ten Speed Press/Erik Castro\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, he says, winemakers are looking for great places with great soil that “just happened to have been overlooked in the past,” places like the southern Santa Cruz Mountains. One of the people Bonné profiles in the book is Bonny Doon Vineyard alum Prudy Foxx. She's been nicknamed the \"Grape Whisperer.\" She specializes in discovering neglected plantings, helping farmers improve their technique, and matching grapes to the right winemaker. Bonné writes Foxx is determined to get the region back on the map, but her day to day life is about solving problems for local winemakers. \"Nobody calls me because they're happy,\" she tells him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72763\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Mansfield1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/Mansfield1000.jpg\" alt=\"Ron Mansfield's nickname is the "Johnny Grapeseed" of the Sierra Foothills. Photo: Ten Speed Press / Erik Castro\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72763\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ron Mansfield's nickname is the \"Johnny Grapeseed\" of the Sierra Foothills. Photo: Ten Speed Press / Erik Castro\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Also profiled in the book: Ron Mansfield of Placerville, a place known as much for its apple orchards as for its grapes. Mansfield realized the local, granite-rich soil many were using for Zinfadel naturally lends itself to Grenache and Gamay Noir, grapes that lead to Rhone style wines. He also differs from the California norm in the way he grows his grapes. Head-trained vines are trellised to a single wooden stake. Mansifeld jokingly calls it the \"Mansfield Vertical Cordon,\" but it's a practice commonly seen in the Rhone -- as well as old-time California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farming techniques have changed in a number of other ways. Many winemakers are thinking seriously, critically, about where, exactly, they grow certain varietals. They're backing away from heavy use of new oak. Ripeness levels are drifting downward, especially with varietals that are prone to accumulating sugar to begin with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em> is more of a coffee table book than it is a reference guide, and yet it's more of a reference guide than your typical coffee table book. It's really a compendium of bite-sized introductions to winemakers trying to take California in a different stylistic direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time and again, as Bonné arrives at a winemaker's table, he notes a bottle of Old World wine on the table. Bonné is, of course, self-selecting people who share his European-biased palette. But this also serves as a signal to people who've dismissed California fruit bombs to reconsider: come on back, he seems to be saying. The wine is fine.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/70795/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne","authors":["251"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_12529","bayareabites_11545","bayareabites_12601","bayareabites_12602","bayareabites_14748","bayareabites_12553"],"featImg":"bayareabites_72754","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. 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