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Mozzeria Closure Is a Double Loss for Deaf Diners
The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?
Food Bloggers Share Inside Tips for Summer Bay Area Food
"San Francisco Eats" Exhibit at Main Library
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On the side she's also a media consultant, specializing in all forms of digital goodness: audio, video, print, design, and social media.\r\n\r\nAfter leaving the tech world nearly a decade ago, \u003ca title=\"The Culinary Life Comfort Food Blog\" href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/\">Stephanie\u003c/a> made a career jump to her lifetime love, writing. She currently writes for the Huffington Post, KQED's Bay Area Bites, NPR, and other select media outlets. Her first cookbook,\u003ca title=\"Melt Macaroni and Cheese Website\" href=\"http://www.meltmacaroni.com/\">Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese\u003c/a>, is due out in fall 2013 on Little, Brown with coauthor Garrett McCord.\r\n\r\nBeing a recovering techy leaves an indelible mark, and everything Stephanie does is infused with her deep fascination with digital technology. 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I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. 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As San Francisco’s first and only Deaf-owned-and-operated restaurant, it was really two places simultaneously: A cozy eatery, appreciated by locals for its calm vibe, lack of booming music and crusty, wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and a Deaf-centric space that was a welcoming home for the all-Deaf staff and diners from around the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While the narrow space’s two-tops were often filled with hearing couples, the back of the room held the only space large enough to accommodate a big group. Celebrating a birthday, graduation or job well done with a bunch of Deaf friends was the perfect excuse for a festive night out at Mozzeria. But no excuse was needed. After a week of feeling isolated as the only Deaf person in a hearing workplace, Mozzeria was just the place to unwind and probably bump into Deaf friends or friends of friends and relax, chatting the night away.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID=\"bayareabites_35858\" \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">label=\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"Past Articles about Mozzeria.\"]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That rare instance of 100% communication access was a big draw for Deaf diners. As co-founder Russ Stein explained in\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/41883/thumbs-up-for-pizza-and-small-plates-at-deaf-owned-mozzeria\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a video interview for KQED\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a few months after Mozzeria’s opening:\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Growing up in my Deaf family, when we went out to restaurants, it was a very isolating feeling. We would always be the only Deaf people in the place. This restaurant provides one of the very few opportunities for the tables to be turned… When a waiter brings over the menu. Deaf customers can ask detailed questions for the first time. Deaf people are so used to the waiters rattling off the specials, while they kind of nod politely and just guess at what was said. Now when the server mentions the special, the customer can ask questions and find out about the ingredients and preparation. It’s very exciting… Deaf people have never really had this opportunity… .”\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139587\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139587\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-800x571.jpg\" alt=\"Melody and Russ Stein\" width=\"800\" height=\"571\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-768x549.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-2048x1463.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-1920x1371.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-owners Melody and Russ Stein. \u003ccite>(Ken Arcia / Arcia Photography, www.arcia.us)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Among its hearing customers (who definitely outnumbered their Deaf counterparts most nights), some knew that they were coming to a Deaf restaurant and came specifically to practice their American Sign Language (ASL). Others had no clue of Mozzeria’s uniqueness until their waiter affably gestured, pointed, and mimed. Many left having at least learned one sign: “thank you.”\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Steins met in 1995 \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when they were graduate business administration students at Gallaudet University in Washington, DC, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the world’s only university specifically designed for Deaf people\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Melody always nurtured the dream of owning a restaurant. Russ was game, if it could supply him with his favorite food, pizza. The pair did their homework to prepare.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before Mozzeria opened, Russ set up a wood-fired oven in their backyard and practiced making pizzas for two years. Melody traveled to Italy, where she learned how to make pasta in Rome and pizza in Sorrento and Positano.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After finally securing a space, they hired a Deaf electrician, Deaf wood refinishers, and a Deaf\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">woodworker to design and construct their tables, shelves, and marble-topped counter. They also featured Deaf artists on the walls of their restaurant.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mozzeria opened on December 9, 2011. Word quickly spread around the world from accounts in the New York Times, Washington Post and on TV news stories and scores of other media outlets. Soon they were welcoming Deaf visitors from across the globe, from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sweden, Italy, China, Australia, Brazil, Japan and other countries. (Even though each country uses a different sign language, when two Deaf people from different countries meet, their shared visual orientation, comfort with gesturing and the iconicity of some signs makes it much easier for them to quickly communicate the basics, compared to hearing people who speak different languages).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant, at times, reflected cross-cultural \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">clues in its menu, like Melody’s signature dish the Peking Duck Pizza topped with sliced cucumber, green onions and sesame seeds.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> The dish is an homage to Melody’s family owning several Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong and later San Francisco. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soya Mori, a Deaf \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">developmental economist and sign language linguist \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">from Tokyo, spent a year as a visiting scholar at University of California, Berkeley. “The first week of my stay at UC Berkeley, I visited Mozzeria with my family,” says Mori. “It was one of our dreams, because it was so famous to foreign visitors. Deaf-owned businesses like Mozzeria are so important for our Deaf community. We are really sorry to know of its closing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139588\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139588\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-800x572.jpg\" alt=\"Russ Stein making a margherita pizza.\" width=\"800\" height=\"572\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-800x572.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-1020x729.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-768x549.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-2048x1463.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-1920x1372.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ Stein making a margherita pizza. \u003ccite>(Ken Arcia / Arcia Photography, www.arcia.us)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Mozzeria inspired Deaf people all over the US that it is possible to open their own restaurant,” said Nichola Schmitz, a Deaf relay interpreter. “It also gave a host of jobs to Deaf workers, and not just as dishwashers, hidden away in the kitchen, but as cashiers, servers, everything. When hearing people read the reviews, instead of looking down on Deaf people, they looked up to the owners of Mozzeria and wanted to support them.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Melody and Russ were more than restaurateurs,” says Julie Rems-Smario, a Deaf Education Consultant for the California Department of Education. “They were very involved with the Deaf community. They sponsored a host of fundraisers at Mozzeria and gave us the whole place for free one Monday so we could shoot a film to bring awareness about domestic violence in the queer community. They also invited students at the California School for the Deaf in Fremont to have internships at Mozzeria,” Rems-Smario adds. “And when they graduated, many became employees there.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Part of Mozzeria’s decision to have an all-Deaf work force came from the intimate knowledge that Deaf people face huge hurdles in finding employment.\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/01/12/662925592/deaf-and-unemployed-1-000-applications-but-still-no-full-time-job\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Less than 40 percent work full time\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rachel Zemach, a Deaf writer and former teacher of Deaf children, speaks of the hope, empowerment and financial freedom that comes with having a job. “Mozzeria was important to counter the despair that Deaf people feel at being blocked from working, even at the lowest level jobs. Mozzeria gave Deaf people another way of thinking about their power in the world. It was a venue that raised up Deaf people in the world of work. Their impact went much deeper than food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Former employee Jason Wittig worked as a server at Mozzeria for three years before he got his dream job doing photography at SFMOMA. “Mozzeria was a great place for Deaf people who needed employment and experience to improve their skills in dealing with both the hearing and Deaf public. Melody and Russ Stein graciously provided a safe and wonderful environment for Deaf people, no matter what their skill level, to be employed, which can be very difficult in the hearing world. They knew it was important for Deaf people to be able to provide for themselves by making a living on their own terms.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2017, Mozzeria partnered with the CSD Social Venture Fund (CSD SVF), which supports Deaf entrepreneurs in growing their businesses. and expanded as Mozzeria Inc., to transform itself into a national brand. In September 2020, the second Mozzeria, in Washington DC, opened during the pandemic. Future plans for expansion are up in the air.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While San Francisco Mozzeria’s brick and mortar has closed, it still has a huge food truck, which regularly appears at \u003ca href=\"https://mozzeria.com/san-francisco/\">Off The Grid\u003c/a>, will still be used for \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">private events\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ryan Maliszewski, CEO of Mozzeria, Inc. says, “right now our primary focus is to maximize our food truck visibility across the Bay Area so that we can bring Mozzeria much closer to our current as well as new customers. We also plan to explore the idea of doing a traveling “\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mozzeria Food Truck Tour\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” across the Pacific Northwest or even southern California where we could also test new markets for potential brand expansion down the road.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Around the world, there are just a handful of Deaf-owned-and operated restaurants. Many have recently closed, but some, including\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.crepecrazy.com/#about\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Crêpe Crazy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Austin,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/1000et1Signes/\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1000&1 Signes\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a Moroccan restaurant in Paris,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://signwithme.in/\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sign with Me\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Social Café in Tokyo, and\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/bravocaffetaipei/\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bravo Caffe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Taipei, are struggling to stay afloat during the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As San Francisco’s first and only Deaf-centered restaurant closed last week, many mourned its loss. Writer Anna Mindess reflects on what it means for the community. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621555279,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1452},"headData":{"title":"Mozzeria Closure Is a Double Loss for Deaf Diners | KQED","description":"As San Francisco’s first and only Deaf-centered restaurant closed last week, many mourned its loss. Writer Anna Mindess reflects on what it means for the community. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Mozzeria Closure Is a Double Loss for Deaf Diners","datePublished":"2020-11-19T22:18:12.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T00:01:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139583 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139583","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/11/19/mozzeria-closure-is-a-double-loss-for-deaf-diners/","disqusTitle":"Mozzeria Closure Is a Double Loss for Deaf Diners","path":"/bayareabites/139583/mozzeria-closure-is-a-double-loss-for-deaf-diners","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A 49-seat pizza restaurant in the Mission is the latest casualty of the pandemic, closing November 12 almost nine years after Melody and Russ Stein opened the spot on 16\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">th\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Street. As San Francisco’s first and only Deaf-owned-and-operated restaurant, it was really two places simultaneously: A cozy eatery, appreciated by locals for its calm vibe, lack of booming music and crusty, wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas and a Deaf-centric space that was a welcoming home for the all-Deaf staff and diners from around the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While the narrow space’s two-tops were often filled with hearing couples, the back of the room held the only space large enough to accommodate a big group. Celebrating a birthday, graduation or job well done with a bunch of Deaf friends was the perfect excuse for a festive night out at Mozzeria. But no excuse was needed. After a week of feeling isolated as the only Deaf person in a hearing workplace, Mozzeria was just the place to unwind and probably bump into Deaf friends or friends of friends and relax, chatting the night away.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_35858","label":"\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">label=\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"Past Articles about Mozzeria.\""},"numeric":["\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan","style=\"font-weight:","400\">label=\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan","style=\"font-weight:","400\">\"Past","Articles","about","Mozzeria.\""]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That rare instance of 100% communication access was a big draw for Deaf diners. As co-founder Russ Stein explained in\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/41883/thumbs-up-for-pizza-and-small-plates-at-deaf-owned-mozzeria\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a video interview for KQED\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> a few months after Mozzeria’s opening:\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Growing up in my Deaf family, when we went out to restaurants, it was a very isolating feeling. We would always be the only Deaf people in the place. This restaurant provides one of the very few opportunities for the tables to be turned… When a waiter brings over the menu. Deaf customers can ask detailed questions for the first time. Deaf people are so used to the waiters rattling off the specials, while they kind of nod politely and just guess at what was said. Now when the server mentions the special, the customer can ask questions and find out about the ingredients and preparation. It’s very exciting… Deaf people have never really had this opportunity… .”\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139587\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139587\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-800x571.jpg\" alt=\"Melody and Russ Stein\" width=\"800\" height=\"571\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-768x549.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-2048x1463.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/2-Melody-and-Russ-Stein-6-1920x1371.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-owners Melody and Russ Stein. \u003ccite>(Ken Arcia / Arcia Photography, www.arcia.us)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Among its hearing customers (who definitely outnumbered their Deaf counterparts most nights), some knew that they were coming to a Deaf restaurant and came specifically to practice their American Sign Language (ASL). Others had no clue of Mozzeria’s uniqueness until their waiter affably gestured, pointed, and mimed. Many left having at least learned one sign: “thank you.”\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Steins met in 1995 \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when they were graduate business administration students at Gallaudet University in Washington, DC, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the world’s only university specifically designed for Deaf people\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Melody always nurtured the dream of owning a restaurant. Russ was game, if it could supply him with his favorite food, pizza. The pair did their homework to prepare.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before Mozzeria opened, Russ set up a wood-fired oven in their backyard and practiced making pizzas for two years. Melody traveled to Italy, where she learned how to make pasta in Rome and pizza in Sorrento and Positano.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After finally securing a space, they hired a Deaf electrician, Deaf wood refinishers, and a Deaf\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">woodworker to design and construct their tables, shelves, and marble-topped counter. They also featured Deaf artists on the walls of their restaurant.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mozzeria opened on December 9, 2011. Word quickly spread around the world from accounts in the New York Times, Washington Post and on TV news stories and scores of other media outlets. Soon they were welcoming Deaf visitors from across the globe, from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sweden, Italy, China, Australia, Brazil, Japan and other countries. (Even though each country uses a different sign language, when two Deaf people from different countries meet, their shared visual orientation, comfort with gesturing and the iconicity of some signs makes it much easier for them to quickly communicate the basics, compared to hearing people who speak different languages).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant, at times, reflected cross-cultural \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">clues in its menu, like Melody’s signature dish the Peking Duck Pizza topped with sliced cucumber, green onions and sesame seeds.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> The dish is an homage to Melody’s family owning several Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong and later San Francisco. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soya Mori, a Deaf \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">developmental economist and sign language linguist \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">from Tokyo, spent a year as a visiting scholar at University of California, Berkeley. “The first week of my stay at UC Berkeley, I visited Mozzeria with my family,” says Mori. “It was one of our dreams, because it was so famous to foreign visitors. Deaf-owned businesses like Mozzeria are so important for our Deaf community. We are really sorry to know of its closing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139588\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139588\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-800x572.jpg\" alt=\"Russ Stein making a margherita pizza.\" width=\"800\" height=\"572\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-800x572.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-1020x729.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-768x549.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-2048x1463.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/11/3.-margherita-pizza-1920x1372.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ Stein making a margherita pizza. \u003ccite>(Ken Arcia / Arcia Photography, www.arcia.us)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Mozzeria inspired Deaf people all over the US that it is possible to open their own restaurant,” said Nichola Schmitz, a Deaf relay interpreter. “It also gave a host of jobs to Deaf workers, and not just as dishwashers, hidden away in the kitchen, but as cashiers, servers, everything. When hearing people read the reviews, instead of looking down on Deaf people, they looked up to the owners of Mozzeria and wanted to support them.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Melody and Russ were more than restaurateurs,” says Julie Rems-Smario, a Deaf Education Consultant for the California Department of Education. “They were very involved with the Deaf community. They sponsored a host of fundraisers at Mozzeria and gave us the whole place for free one Monday so we could shoot a film to bring awareness about domestic violence in the queer community. They also invited students at the California School for the Deaf in Fremont to have internships at Mozzeria,” Rems-Smario adds. “And when they graduated, many became employees there.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Part of Mozzeria’s decision to have an all-Deaf work force came from the intimate knowledge that Deaf people face huge hurdles in finding employment.\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/01/12/662925592/deaf-and-unemployed-1-000-applications-but-still-no-full-time-job\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Less than 40 percent work full time\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rachel Zemach, a Deaf writer and former teacher of Deaf children, speaks of the hope, empowerment and financial freedom that comes with having a job. “Mozzeria was important to counter the despair that Deaf people feel at being blocked from working, even at the lowest level jobs. Mozzeria gave Deaf people another way of thinking about their power in the world. It was a venue that raised up Deaf people in the world of work. Their impact went much deeper than food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Former employee Jason Wittig worked as a server at Mozzeria for three years before he got his dream job doing photography at SFMOMA. “Mozzeria was a great place for Deaf people who needed employment and experience to improve their skills in dealing with both the hearing and Deaf public. Melody and Russ Stein graciously provided a safe and wonderful environment for Deaf people, no matter what their skill level, to be employed, which can be very difficult in the hearing world. They knew it was important for Deaf people to be able to provide for themselves by making a living on their own terms.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2017, Mozzeria partnered with the CSD Social Venture Fund (CSD SVF), which supports Deaf entrepreneurs in growing their businesses. and expanded as Mozzeria Inc., to transform itself into a national brand. In September 2020, the second Mozzeria, in Washington DC, opened during the pandemic. Future plans for expansion are up in the air.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While San Francisco Mozzeria’s brick and mortar has closed, it still has a huge food truck, which regularly appears at \u003ca href=\"https://mozzeria.com/san-francisco/\">Off The Grid\u003c/a>, will still be used for \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">private events\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ryan Maliszewski, CEO of Mozzeria, Inc. says, “right now our primary focus is to maximize our food truck visibility across the Bay Area so that we can bring Mozzeria much closer to our current as well as new customers. We also plan to explore the idea of doing a traveling “\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mozzeria Food Truck Tour\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” across the Pacific Northwest or even southern California where we could also test new markets for potential brand expansion down the road.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Around the world, there are just a handful of Deaf-owned-and operated restaurants. Many have recently closed, but some, including\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.crepecrazy.com/#about\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Crêpe Crazy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Austin,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/1000et1Signes/\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1000&1 Signes\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a Moroccan restaurant in Paris,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://signwithme.in/\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sign with Me\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Social Café in Tokyo, and\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/bravocaffetaipei/\"> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bravo Caffe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Taipei, are struggling to stay afloat during the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139583/mozzeria-closure-is-a-double-loss-for-deaf-diners","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_9938","bayareabites_10339","bayareabites_9941","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_9934","bayareabites_16900","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_8577"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139585","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_137260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_137260","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"137260","score":null,"sort":[1589930986000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","publishDate":1589930986,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Emiliana Puyana']'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Maria Moreno']'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postid='bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903' label='The Food Industry Adapts']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Vincent Medina']'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Jocelyn Jackson']' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621634313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":3353},"headData":{"title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It? | KQED","description":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","datePublished":"2020-05-19T23:29:46.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:58:33.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"137260 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/19/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it/","disqusTitle":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Emiliana Puyana","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Maria Moreno","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903","label":"The Food Industry Adapts "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Vincent Medina","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Jocelyn Jackson","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_16607","bayareabites_16575","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16603","bayareabites_16604","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16605","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_16602","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_16606","bayareabites_16608","bayareabites_8577"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137282","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_30336":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_30336","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"30336","score":null,"sort":[1311093202000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-bloggers-share-inside-tips-for-summer-bay-area-food","title":"Food Bloggers Share Inside Tips for Summer Bay Area Food","publishDate":1311093202,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/humphry-slocombe500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/humphry-slocombe500.jpg\" alt=\"Humphry Slocombe. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"Humphry Slocombe. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"500\" height=\"442\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30456\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Enjoying Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is finally seeing 75+ degree weather, and both locals and tourists are out in full force, soaking up some much-needed vitamin D. Dolores Park is packed from corner to corner, the bubble tea shops have lines out the door, and street food vendors are crowding the alleyways and sidewalks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the weather warrants sunscreen, what better activities are there to take part in than those that involve eating? Right now is the time to enjoy an \u003ca href=\"http://www.biritecreamery.com/menu.html\">epic ice cream sundae\u003c/a> while sitting enjoying the sun on a restaurant's outdoor patio, or grab a \u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriadelfina.com/\" title=\"Delfina Pizza\">gourmet pizza\u003c/a> and chow down in the park. But how do you know where to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure you can just grab a burrito from your favorite taqueria, or \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodstories.com/2010/04/12/neighborhood-guide-the-mission-district-san-francisco/\" title=\"Mission District Food Guide\">walk around the Mission District\u003c/a> while following your nose, but we thought we'd offer you a few tips on must-taste opportunities during these gorgeous summer days. We've tapped two local food bloggers to share their inside tips on the best edible offerings around town: meet Irvin Lin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatthelove.com/\" title=\"Eat the Love\">Eat the Love\u003c/a> and Sabrina Modelle of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thetomatotart.com/\" title=\"The Tomato Tart\">The Tomato Tart\u003c/a>, your honorary culinary guides for the summer, as they provide insider advice on the best summer fare around the bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CHEF-STRONG-SFCHEFS400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CHEF-STRONG-SFCHEFS400.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs -- Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"SF Chefs -- Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30470\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Chefs -- Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite summer food events? What makes them so special?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Irvin:\u003c/strong> Hands down, my favorite summer food event is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfstreetfoodfest.com/\" title=\"San Francisco Street Food Festival\">San Francisco Street Food Festival\u003c/a>. Street food is often where the innovation is happening in the food world. Though the lines are long, the food is always wonderful to eat and there is always a sense of discovery when you go there. This will be the third annual event (I believe it's scheduled August 20th), sponsored by the fantastic incubation kitchen La Cocina, and there will be established restaurants there as well as unknown vendors. This year sounds even better as they've not only expanded into some parking lots and it coincides with the National Street Food conference.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabrina:\u003c/strong> Since it began two years ago, the \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/event/Oakland/California/2011\" title=\"Eat Real Fest\">Eat Real Fest in Oakland\u003c/a> has fallen on my anniversary weekend and my husband and I have had a street food anniversary date. We love strolling around Jack London square drinking local beer, sampling real street food, taking in food demos, and hanging out by the water's edge. This year, it's moved back to September, but since that feels like our summer anyway, I'll include it. I'm also really looking forward to \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefs2011.com/\" title=\"SF Chefs\">SF Chefs\u003c/a> this year. It will be my first time attending, but the preview events started last weekend with an amazing pasta-making demo with Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda and Chef Charles Phan of The Slanted Door. You can catch me hanging out at upcoming preview events each Saturday in July. This Saturday will feature Rachel Saunders of \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefs2011.com/\" title=\"Blue Chair Jam\">Blue Chair Fruit Jam\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When the weather heats up, what are your favorite places to eat in San Francisco?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Irvin:\u003c/strong> I absolutely love going to \u003ca href=\"http://biritemarket.com/\" title=\"Bi-Rite Market\">Bi-Rite Market\u003c/a> and grabbing a sandwich and heading to the park. Though people complain that Bi-Rite Market is packed with people (navigating the crowds in the tiny store on a sunny weekend is a pain) the secret to getting a decent sandwich there and not going crazy is to call ahead. Just check out their \u003ca href=\"http://biritemarket.com/departments/sandwiches/\" title=\"Bi-Rite Market sandwiches\">website\u003c/a>, look at the deli section and call ahead and place your order for your sandwich. Then ten minutes later, pop on over and just pick it up at the register, no fuss. Walk on over to Dolores Park where the people watching is fantastic and the late summer sun will shine on your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabrina:\u003c/strong> When it's hot, I love eating on my little patio, of course. I'm in The Mission, so picking up some essentials from Bi-Rite and throwing together a \u003ca href=\"http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/heirloom-tomatoes-caprese-salad-recipe/\" title=\"Caprese Salad\">quick salad\u003c/a> is my preferred course of action. If we're going out, I love to eat sushi when it's warm. There's nothing that can compare to the freshness and simplicity of ingredients in well-prepared Japanese cuisine. I'm currently in love with \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI.html\" title=\"ICHI Sushi\">Ichi Sushi\u003c/a>. I think Tim Archuletta is amazing -- both because he's very talented and I've enjoyed sitting across the bar and chatting with him. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sushibistro.com/Home.html\" title=\"Sushi Bistro\">Sushi Bistro\u003c/a> on 24th is another favorite for really fresh nigiri, the sushi chef is just amazing and I suggest trying whatever he recommends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CAPRESE-PATIO500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CAPRESE-PATIO500-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"Caprese salad on the patio. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"Caprese salad on the patio. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-30472\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Caprese salad on the patio. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where is your favorite ice cream place in SF? What's your favorite flavor there?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Irvin:\u003c/strong> I adore \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/\" title=\"Humphry Slocombe\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a>, and I think \u003ca href=\"http://singleguychef.blogspot.com/2010/06/mr-and-mrs-miscellaneous-ice-cream-in.html\" title=\"Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous\">Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous\u003c/a> is fantastic, I'm a \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\" title=\"Bi-Rite Creamery\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> sort of guy. Again, part of it is the \u003ca href=\"http://missiondolorespark.com/\" title=\"Dolores Park\">Dolores Park\u003c/a> appeal, where you can buy some ice cream and walk over to the park, but part of it is the secret shortcuts that make me feel like I'm in the know. Everyone complains the lines are ridiculous (and they are) but rarely is the line long over a the soft serve window. Even better, if you know what flavors you like, go directly to the cold case in the main part of the ice cream shop and just buy a pint, bypassing the line completely. My partner AJ loves their signature Salted Caramel, but I'm a fan of the Honey Lavender. Rich, floral with a touch of sweetness, I get it every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabrina:\u003c/strong> I am a big fan of Humphry Slocombe. I'm exactly two blocks away from their store, and when we first moved in, I actually had a little problem. I had to set rules either one scoop of ice cream or one \u003ca href=\"http://www.dynamodonut.com/\" title=\"Dynamo Donut\">Dynamo Donut\u003c/a> once per week. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/%7C_Flavors_%7C.html\" title=\"Flavors\">ice cream pretty much always won out\u003c/a>. Now, I've slowed down on my consumption quite a bit, and I visit about once a month or so. I love their salted licorice, their brown butter, and of course, the first thing I ever tried the ancho chili chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/ICHI-SUSHI500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/ICHI-SUSHI500.jpg\" alt=\"Ichi Sushi. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"Ichi Sushi. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30473\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ichi Sushi. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Local Bay Area food bloggers share their inside tips on this summer's best food events and favorite hot weather eats.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1311289707,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":1027},"headData":{"title":"Food Bloggers Share Inside Tips for Summer Bay Area Food | KQED","description":"Local Bay Area food bloggers share their inside tips on this summer's best food events and favorite hot weather eats.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food Bloggers Share Inside Tips for Summer Bay Area Food","datePublished":"2011-07-19T16:33:22.000Z","dateModified":"2011-07-21T23:08:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"30336 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=30336","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/07/19/food-bloggers-share-inside-tips-for-summer-bay-area-food/","disqusTitle":"Food Bloggers Share Inside Tips for Summer Bay Area Food","path":"/bayareabites/30336/food-bloggers-share-inside-tips-for-summer-bay-area-food","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/humphry-slocombe500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/humphry-slocombe500.jpg\" alt=\"Humphry Slocombe. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"Humphry Slocombe. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"500\" height=\"442\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30456\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Enjoying Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is finally seeing 75+ degree weather, and both locals and tourists are out in full force, soaking up some much-needed vitamin D. Dolores Park is packed from corner to corner, the bubble tea shops have lines out the door, and street food vendors are crowding the alleyways and sidewalks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the weather warrants sunscreen, what better activities are there to take part in than those that involve eating? Right now is the time to enjoy an \u003ca href=\"http://www.biritecreamery.com/menu.html\">epic ice cream sundae\u003c/a> while sitting enjoying the sun on a restaurant's outdoor patio, or grab a \u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriadelfina.com/\" title=\"Delfina Pizza\">gourmet pizza\u003c/a> and chow down in the park. But how do you know where to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure you can just grab a burrito from your favorite taqueria, or \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodstories.com/2010/04/12/neighborhood-guide-the-mission-district-san-francisco/\" title=\"Mission District Food Guide\">walk around the Mission District\u003c/a> while following your nose, but we thought we'd offer you a few tips on must-taste opportunities during these gorgeous summer days. We've tapped two local food bloggers to share their inside tips on the best edible offerings around town: meet Irvin Lin of \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatthelove.com/\" title=\"Eat the Love\">Eat the Love\u003c/a> and Sabrina Modelle of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thetomatotart.com/\" title=\"The Tomato Tart\">The Tomato Tart\u003c/a>, your honorary culinary guides for the summer, as they provide insider advice on the best summer fare around the bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CHEF-STRONG-SFCHEFS400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CHEF-STRONG-SFCHEFS400.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs -- Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"SF Chefs -- Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30470\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>SF Chefs -- Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite summer food events? What makes them so special?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Irvin:\u003c/strong> Hands down, my favorite summer food event is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfstreetfoodfest.com/\" title=\"San Francisco Street Food Festival\">San Francisco Street Food Festival\u003c/a>. Street food is often where the innovation is happening in the food world. Though the lines are long, the food is always wonderful to eat and there is always a sense of discovery when you go there. This will be the third annual event (I believe it's scheduled August 20th), sponsored by the fantastic incubation kitchen La Cocina, and there will be established restaurants there as well as unknown vendors. This year sounds even better as they've not only expanded into some parking lots and it coincides with the National Street Food conference.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabrina:\u003c/strong> Since it began two years ago, the \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/event/Oakland/California/2011\" title=\"Eat Real Fest\">Eat Real Fest in Oakland\u003c/a> has fallen on my anniversary weekend and my husband and I have had a street food anniversary date. We love strolling around Jack London square drinking local beer, sampling real street food, taking in food demos, and hanging out by the water's edge. This year, it's moved back to September, but since that feels like our summer anyway, I'll include it. I'm also really looking forward to \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefs2011.com/\" title=\"SF Chefs\">SF Chefs\u003c/a> this year. It will be my first time attending, but the preview events started last weekend with an amazing pasta-making demo with Chef Anthony Strong of Locanda and Chef Charles Phan of The Slanted Door. You can catch me hanging out at upcoming preview events each Saturday in July. This Saturday will feature Rachel Saunders of \u003ca href=\"http://sfchefs2011.com/\" title=\"Blue Chair Jam\">Blue Chair Fruit Jam\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When the weather heats up, what are your favorite places to eat in San Francisco?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Irvin:\u003c/strong> I absolutely love going to \u003ca href=\"http://biritemarket.com/\" title=\"Bi-Rite Market\">Bi-Rite Market\u003c/a> and grabbing a sandwich and heading to the park. Though people complain that Bi-Rite Market is packed with people (navigating the crowds in the tiny store on a sunny weekend is a pain) the secret to getting a decent sandwich there and not going crazy is to call ahead. Just check out their \u003ca href=\"http://biritemarket.com/departments/sandwiches/\" title=\"Bi-Rite Market sandwiches\">website\u003c/a>, look at the deli section and call ahead and place your order for your sandwich. Then ten minutes later, pop on over and just pick it up at the register, no fuss. Walk on over to Dolores Park where the people watching is fantastic and the late summer sun will shine on your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabrina:\u003c/strong> When it's hot, I love eating on my little patio, of course. I'm in The Mission, so picking up some essentials from Bi-Rite and throwing together a \u003ca href=\"http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/heirloom-tomatoes-caprese-salad-recipe/\" title=\"Caprese Salad\">quick salad\u003c/a> is my preferred course of action. If we're going out, I love to eat sushi when it's warm. There's nothing that can compare to the freshness and simplicity of ingredients in well-prepared Japanese cuisine. I'm currently in love with \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI.html\" title=\"ICHI Sushi\">Ichi Sushi\u003c/a>. I think Tim Archuletta is amazing -- both because he's very talented and I've enjoyed sitting across the bar and chatting with him. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sushibistro.com/Home.html\" title=\"Sushi Bistro\">Sushi Bistro\u003c/a> on 24th is another favorite for really fresh nigiri, the sushi chef is just amazing and I suggest trying whatever he recommends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CAPRESE-PATIO500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/CAPRESE-PATIO500-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"Caprese salad on the patio. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"Caprese salad on the patio. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-30472\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Caprese salad on the patio. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where is your favorite ice cream place in SF? What's your favorite flavor there?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Irvin:\u003c/strong> I adore \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/\" title=\"Humphry Slocombe\">Humphry Slocombe\u003c/a>, and I think \u003ca href=\"http://singleguychef.blogspot.com/2010/06/mr-and-mrs-miscellaneous-ice-cream-in.html\" title=\"Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous\">Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous\u003c/a> is fantastic, I'm a \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\" title=\"Bi-Rite Creamery\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> sort of guy. Again, part of it is the \u003ca href=\"http://missiondolorespark.com/\" title=\"Dolores Park\">Dolores Park\u003c/a> appeal, where you can buy some ice cream and walk over to the park, but part of it is the secret shortcuts that make me feel like I'm in the know. Everyone complains the lines are ridiculous (and they are) but rarely is the line long over a the soft serve window. Even better, if you know what flavors you like, go directly to the cold case in the main part of the ice cream shop and just buy a pint, bypassing the line completely. My partner AJ loves their signature Salted Caramel, but I'm a fan of the Honey Lavender. Rich, floral with a touch of sweetness, I get it every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sabrina:\u003c/strong> I am a big fan of Humphry Slocombe. I'm exactly two blocks away from their store, and when we first moved in, I actually had a little problem. I had to set rules either one scoop of ice cream or one \u003ca href=\"http://www.dynamodonut.com/\" title=\"Dynamo Donut\">Dynamo Donut\u003c/a> once per week. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.humphryslocombe.com/%7C_Flavors_%7C.html\" title=\"Flavors\">ice cream pretty much always won out\u003c/a>. Now, I've slowed down on my consumption quite a bit, and I visit about once a month or so. I love their salted licorice, their brown butter, and of course, the first thing I ever tried the ancho chili chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/ICHI-SUSHI500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/ICHI-SUSHI500.jpg\" alt=\"Ichi Sushi. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" title=\"Ichi Sushi. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30473\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ichi Sushi. Photo: Sabrina Modelle\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/30336/food-bloggers-share-inside-tips-for-summer-bay-area-food","authors":["5120"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_2642","bayareabites_2566","bayareabites_312","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_8577","bayareabites_2625"],"featImg":"bayareabites_30338","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_19700":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_19700","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"19700","score":null,"sort":[1292179564000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"san-francisco-eats-exhibit-at-main-library","title":"\"San Francisco Eats\" Exhibit at Main Library","publishDate":1292179564,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/refugee-camp-restaurant.jpg\" alt=\"Refugee Camp Restaurant, 1906. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"Refugee Camp Restaurant, 1906. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"500\" height=\"405\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19792\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Refugee Camp Restaurant, 1906. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christmas in San Francisco, and what's on the menu? Sweetbreads. Squab. Canvasback duck. Cardoons, flageolet beans, porcini mushrooms. A choice of German or California asparagus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And let us not forget the oysters, lots and lots of oysters, or the sand dabs, frogs' legs, and Sacramento River salmon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_19791\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/palace-lunch-restaurant.jpg\" alt=\"Palace Lunch Restaurant, 1932. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"Palace Lunch Restaurant, 1932. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"250\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-19791\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palace Lunch Restaurant, 1932. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Such would have been your choices on December 25, 1910 at the Palace Hotel on Market Street, just a few years after the City's most devastating earthquake. At the Fairmont Hotel, on an ordinary evening in May 1908, the evening's menu was almost as elegant: East Coast blue point oysters, filet of striped bass, new potatoes, sweetbreads and squab, French peas, salad, ice cream, fancy cakes, and \u003cem>cafe noir\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone thinking that a California cuisine didn't exist until Wolfgang Puck put smoked salmon on a pizza (or Alice dropped goat cheese on a salad) should head over to the San Francisco Main Library and get a mouth-watering education at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpl.org/index.php?pg=1003109001\">San Francisco Eats,\u003c/a> a delectably entertaining exhibit of historic menus, photographs, and other restaurant ephemera (matchboxes! matchbooks!) on display now through March 20, 2011. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curated by Sheila Himmel, a longtime restaurant critic with the San Jose Mercury News, in conjunction with Lisa Vestal, the library's head curator, the exhibit pulled most of its items from the library's own San Francisco History and Historical Photograph Collections, with additional materials from restauranteur Pat Kuleto, the Cliff House, and the Alice Statler Library at City College, among others. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a former restaurant critic myself, I would have loved to have learned more about how the City's restaurant scene developed over the past century. Alas for restaurant geeks and city-history buffs, the commentary is limited to a paragraph or two on cards below each display case, along with a general introduction on the wall. (However, there is a great quote from Alice B. Toklas about the mad gustatory delights she and Gertrude enjoyed while dining out in the City.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there are small gems to be had: how lower Polk Street was known as \"Polkstrasse\" during the early half of the 20th century, thanks to its concentration of German restaurants and beer halls, or how pig's feet and lamb kidneys were common items, and how you could find both, along with Grape Nuts cereal, codfish in cream, and green tea, on the breakfast menu of the Clift Hotel, circa 1915. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all the menus are dated, but the bulk of them seem to date from the 1940s through the 60s, leading to much nostalgia on the part of the crowd on the exhibit's opening day. Blum's, the Magic Pan, Alfred's Steakhouse, Ernie's, Le Club, Le Trianon: you could see the years of shined shoes, hats and gloves, lipstick and martinis unspooling in memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Menus were big back then, tall and imposing. Open one and it covered your plate. A tassel might be involved, and a foreign language, probably French. A fancy night out meant this thing called Continental Cuisine, mixed up from a little French, a little Italian, maybe a dash of Spanish. Turtle soup, wine sauces, flaming desserts. Even restaurants that weren't exclusively French, like Masa's, often wrote their menus in French, connoting serious gastronomy (and perhaps, justifying their prices with a touch of Parisian glamor).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_19790\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/mandarin-restuarnt.jpg\" alt=\"The Mandarin Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"The Mandarin Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"250\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-19790\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Mandarin Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But what the exhibit shows most definitely is that San Francisco has always been an eating town, with something for everyone. There were chop-suey joints and elegant Chinese banquet halls, grab-and-go taquerias and gringo-ized Mexican places with singing senoritas, posh hotels and tiki lounges (sometimes in the same place), the Old Poodle Dog and the Koffee Kup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's interesting, of course, to compare prices, especially among the few contemporary menus; in 1997, an order of shaking beef (bo lu lac) at the Slanted Door cost $10.50; in 2010, it's $32. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some places remain the same, even after decades of dishing up. Tadich's, Sears, the Cinderella Bakery, Zuni, even the Hayes Street Grill. Other places define a moment, then fade away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During my decade as a critic, I probably ate in hundreds of restaurants all around the Bay Area. Only a few now-gone places still glow in recollection, the spots that made you feel like you were smack-dab in the exciting middle of things. Do I miss the actual place, or who we all were there, at that vibration in time? Still, it was easy to agree with chef and Bay Cafe host Joey Altman, during in a short panel discussion moderated by Himmel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Asked about San Francisco restaurant trends then and now, Altman pointed out, a little wistfully, that the City still has nothing to equal Stars in its splashy, 1980s, Jeremiah-Tower heyday, when Altman was a young chef in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Stars was incredibly relevant for the dining scene then. There's no one 'holding court' anymore like Jeremiah did. My friends and I, we'll still say, 'I wish there was a Stars to go to.' \"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpl.org/index.php?pg=1003109001\">San Francisco Eats\u003c/a> exhibit is on display at the San Francisco Main Library in the Jewett Gallery on the Lower Level and in the Skylight Gallery on the Sixth Floor through March 20, 2011.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/trader-vics.jpg\" alt=\"Trader Vics Restaurant, circa 1950. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"Trader Vics Restaurant, circa 1950. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"500\" height=\"398\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19789\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Trader Vics Restaurant, circa 1950. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Anyone thinking that a California cuisine didn't exist until Wolfgang Puck put smoked salmon on a pizza should head over to the San Francisco Main Library and get a mouth-watering education at San Francisco Eats, a delectably entertaining exhibit of historic menus, photographs, and other restaurant ephemera (matchboxes! matchbooks!) on display now through March 20, 2011. \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1295460908,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":940},"headData":{"title":"\"San Francisco Eats\" Exhibit at Main Library | KQED","description":"Anyone thinking that a California cuisine didn't exist until Wolfgang Puck put smoked salmon on a pizza should head over to the San Francisco Main Library and get a mouth-watering education at San Francisco Eats, a delectably entertaining exhibit of historic menus, photographs, and other restaurant ephemera (matchboxes! matchbooks!) on display now through March 20, 2011. \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"\"San Francisco Eats\" Exhibit at Main Library","datePublished":"2010-12-12T18:46:04.000Z","dateModified":"2011-01-19T18:15:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"19700 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=19700","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/12/san-francisco-eats-exhibit-at-main-library/","disqusTitle":"\"San Francisco Eats\" Exhibit at Main Library","path":"/bayareabites/19700/san-francisco-eats-exhibit-at-main-library","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/refugee-camp-restaurant.jpg\" alt=\"Refugee Camp Restaurant, 1906. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"Refugee Camp Restaurant, 1906. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"500\" height=\"405\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19792\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Refugee Camp Restaurant, 1906. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christmas in San Francisco, and what's on the menu? Sweetbreads. Squab. Canvasback duck. Cardoons, flageolet beans, porcini mushrooms. A choice of German or California asparagus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And let us not forget the oysters, lots and lots of oysters, or the sand dabs, frogs' legs, and Sacramento River salmon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_19791\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/palace-lunch-restaurant.jpg\" alt=\"Palace Lunch Restaurant, 1932. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"Palace Lunch Restaurant, 1932. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"250\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-19791\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Palace Lunch Restaurant, 1932. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Such would have been your choices on December 25, 1910 at the Palace Hotel on Market Street, just a few years after the City's most devastating earthquake. At the Fairmont Hotel, on an ordinary evening in May 1908, the evening's menu was almost as elegant: East Coast blue point oysters, filet of striped bass, new potatoes, sweetbreads and squab, French peas, salad, ice cream, fancy cakes, and \u003cem>cafe noir\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone thinking that a California cuisine didn't exist until Wolfgang Puck put smoked salmon on a pizza (or Alice dropped goat cheese on a salad) should head over to the San Francisco Main Library and get a mouth-watering education at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpl.org/index.php?pg=1003109001\">San Francisco Eats,\u003c/a> a delectably entertaining exhibit of historic menus, photographs, and other restaurant ephemera (matchboxes! matchbooks!) on display now through March 20, 2011. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curated by Sheila Himmel, a longtime restaurant critic with the San Jose Mercury News, in conjunction with Lisa Vestal, the library's head curator, the exhibit pulled most of its items from the library's own San Francisco History and Historical Photograph Collections, with additional materials from restauranteur Pat Kuleto, the Cliff House, and the Alice Statler Library at City College, among others. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a former restaurant critic myself, I would have loved to have learned more about how the City's restaurant scene developed over the past century. Alas for restaurant geeks and city-history buffs, the commentary is limited to a paragraph or two on cards below each display case, along with a general introduction on the wall. (However, there is a great quote from Alice B. Toklas about the mad gustatory delights she and Gertrude enjoyed while dining out in the City.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there are small gems to be had: how lower Polk Street was known as \"Polkstrasse\" during the early half of the 20th century, thanks to its concentration of German restaurants and beer halls, or how pig's feet and lamb kidneys were common items, and how you could find both, along with Grape Nuts cereal, codfish in cream, and green tea, on the breakfast menu of the Clift Hotel, circa 1915. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all the menus are dated, but the bulk of them seem to date from the 1940s through the 60s, leading to much nostalgia on the part of the crowd on the exhibit's opening day. Blum's, the Magic Pan, Alfred's Steakhouse, Ernie's, Le Club, Le Trianon: you could see the years of shined shoes, hats and gloves, lipstick and martinis unspooling in memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Menus were big back then, tall and imposing. Open one and it covered your plate. A tassel might be involved, and a foreign language, probably French. A fancy night out meant this thing called Continental Cuisine, mixed up from a little French, a little Italian, maybe a dash of Spanish. Turtle soup, wine sauces, flaming desserts. Even restaurants that weren't exclusively French, like Masa's, often wrote their menus in French, connoting serious gastronomy (and perhaps, justifying their prices with a touch of Parisian glamor).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_19790\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/mandarin-restuarnt.jpg\" alt=\"The Mandarin Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"The Mandarin Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"250\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-19790\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Mandarin Restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But what the exhibit shows most definitely is that San Francisco has always been an eating town, with something for everyone. There were chop-suey joints and elegant Chinese banquet halls, grab-and-go taquerias and gringo-ized Mexican places with singing senoritas, posh hotels and tiki lounges (sometimes in the same place), the Old Poodle Dog and the Koffee Kup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's interesting, of course, to compare prices, especially among the few contemporary menus; in 1997, an order of shaking beef (bo lu lac) at the Slanted Door cost $10.50; in 2010, it's $32. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some places remain the same, even after decades of dishing up. Tadich's, Sears, the Cinderella Bakery, Zuni, even the Hayes Street Grill. Other places define a moment, then fade away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During my decade as a critic, I probably ate in hundreds of restaurants all around the Bay Area. Only a few now-gone places still glow in recollection, the spots that made you feel like you were smack-dab in the exciting middle of things. Do I miss the actual place, or who we all were there, at that vibration in time? Still, it was easy to agree with chef and Bay Cafe host Joey Altman, during in a short panel discussion moderated by Himmel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Asked about San Francisco restaurant trends then and now, Altman pointed out, a little wistfully, that the City still has nothing to equal Stars in its splashy, 1980s, Jeremiah-Tower heyday, when Altman was a young chef in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Stars was incredibly relevant for the dining scene then. There's no one 'holding court' anymore like Jeremiah did. My friends and I, we'll still say, 'I wish there was a Stars to go to.' \"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpl.org/index.php?pg=1003109001\">San Francisco Eats\u003c/a> exhibit is on display at the San Francisco Main Library in the Jewett Gallery on the Lower Level and in the Skylight Gallery on the Sixth Floor through March 20, 2011.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/trader-vics.jpg\" alt=\"Trader Vics Restaurant, circa 1950. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" title=\"Trader Vics Restaurant, circa 1950. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\" width=\"500\" height=\"398\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19789\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Trader Vics Restaurant, circa 1950. Photo credit: San Francisco History Center, San Francisco Public Library\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/19700/san-francisco-eats-exhibit-at-main-library","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_8578","bayareabites_8579","bayareabites_8581","bayareabites_8580","bayareabites_8576","bayareabites_8577"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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