Roast Sausage with Potatoes
Pork Liver Pâté
Braised Sweetbreads in Mirepoix
Fast Food Futures
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Its taste develops during the curing, which should take place in the refrigerator. I find black trumpet mushrooms, sometimes called “poor man’s truffles,” in the woods around my house. They can be used fresh or dried. You can substitute dried porcini mushrooms, if they are easier to find. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SAUSAGE\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup dried black trumpet mushrooms (see headnote)\u003cbr>\n1 pound ground pork about 18 to 20% fat\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup shelled pistachios\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons curing salt, preferably Morton Tender Quick\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon chopped garlic\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons dry white wine\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n1 medium onion, split into halves\u003cbr>\n15 small Red Bliss potatoes, (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled and halved\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FOR THE SAUSAGE:\u003c/strong> Cover the black trumpet mushrooms with 1 cup of water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and boil gently for about 10 minutes, until most of the moisture has evaporated. Drain well and coarsely chop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the mushrooms and all the remaining sausage ingredients together. Wrap in plastic wrap to create a log about 10 inches long and 1 1/2 inches thick. Let cure for at least 48 hours, in the refrigerator or as long as 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TO COOK THE SAUSAGE:\u003c/strong> Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Unroll the sausage from the plastic wrap very carefully, so as not to break it, and place in the saucepan. Brown on all sides over low heat, turning if gently, for 6 to 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the onion and potatoes, cover, and cook for 30 minutes; turn the sausages and potatoes after 15 minutes so that they brown all around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sausage to a platter and sprinkle the potatoes with the salt and pepper. Transfer the potatoes and onions to a warm serving platter. Slice the sausage, arrange next to the potatoes and onions, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright © 2011 by Jacques Pépin. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">More \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em> television episode information\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"This sausage is made without a casing, so its preparation is very easy. Its taste develops during the curing, which should take place in the refrigerator. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1596435605,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":388},"headData":{"title":"Roast Sausage with Potatoes | KQED","description":"Quick and easy recipes from the Essential Pépin series. Learn how to make Roast Sausage with Potatoes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Roast Sausage with Potatoes","datePublished":"2011-09-13T07:23:17.000Z","dateModified":"2020-08-03T06:20:05.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"138139 http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/?p=585","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/13/roast-sausage-with-potatoes/","disqusTitle":"Roast Sausage with Potatoes","path":"/bayareabites/138139/roast-sausage-with-potatoes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">From the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Essential Pépin\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> tv series, \u003c/span>Episode 107: Economical Offal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sausage is made without a casing, so its preparation is very easy. Its taste develops during the curing, which should take place in the refrigerator. I find black trumpet mushrooms, sometimes called “poor man’s truffles,” in the woods around my house. They can be used fresh or dried. You can substitute dried porcini mushrooms, if they are easier to find. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SAUSAGE\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup dried black trumpet mushrooms (see headnote)\u003cbr>\n1 pound ground pork about 18 to 20% fat\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup shelled pistachios\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons curing salt, preferably Morton Tender Quick\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon chopped garlic\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons dry white wine\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n1 medium onion, split into halves\u003cbr>\n15 small Red Bliss potatoes, (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled and halved\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FOR THE SAUSAGE:\u003c/strong> Cover the black trumpet mushrooms with 1 cup of water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and boil gently for about 10 minutes, until most of the moisture has evaporated. Drain well and coarsely chop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the mushrooms and all the remaining sausage ingredients together. Wrap in plastic wrap to create a log about 10 inches long and 1 1/2 inches thick. Let cure for at least 48 hours, in the refrigerator or as long as 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TO COOK THE SAUSAGE:\u003c/strong> Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Unroll the sausage from the plastic wrap very carefully, so as not to break it, and place in the saucepan. Brown on all sides over low heat, turning if gently, for 6 to 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the onion and potatoes, cover, and cook for 30 minutes; turn the sausages and potatoes after 15 minutes so that they brown all around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sausage to a platter and sprinkle the potatoes with the salt and pepper. Transfer the potatoes and onions to a warm serving platter. Slice the sausage, arrange next to the potatoes and onions, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright © 2011 by Jacques Pépin. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">More \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em> television episode information\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138139/roast-sausage-with-potatoes","authors":["5083"],"series":["bayareabites_16657"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_16661","bayareabites_16788","bayareabites_16789","bayareabites_16791","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_8476","bayareabites_16859","bayareabites_242","bayareabites_16658","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_2981","bayareabites_616","bayareabites_16792"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138253","label":"bayareabites_16657"},"bayareabites_138138":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_138138","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"138138","score":null,"sort":[1315897538000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pork-liver-pate","title":"Pork Liver Pâté","publishDate":1315897538,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Jacques Pepin | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16657,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">From the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Essential Pépin\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> tv series, \u003c/span>Episode 107: Economical Offal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the standard meat and liver pâté available in most supermarkets in France, as well as at small restaurants and bistros. A special curing salt gives the pâté its beautiful pink color and great taste. Customarily served cold with French mustard and small cornichons, it makes a good first course for an evening meal or a light lunch with a salad and country bread. Serve a robust red wine. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 ounces pork liver, nerves and sinews removed and diced\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground pork (about 70% lean and 30% fat; shoulder or Boston butt is good)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup dry white wine\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 teaspoons curing salt, preferably Morton Tender Quick\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground thyme\u003cbr>\n1 garlic clove, crushed and very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n2 bay leaves\u003cbr>\nCornichons (tiny French gherkins)\u003cbr>\nDijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drop the diced liver into a blender and blend for 35 to 50 seconds, or until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the ground pork to the livers, then add the wine, salt, pepper, thyme, and garlic and mix thoroughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the meat mixture into a terrine measuring 8 to 10 inches long, 4 to 5 inches wide, and 4 to 6 inches deep. Arrange the bay leaves on top. Cover the terrine with aluminum foil, set it in a baking pan, and pour enough lukewarm water around it to come at least three quarters of the way up the sides of the terrine. Bake for 2 1/2 hours, or until the pâté reaches an internal temperature of about 145 degrees. Remove from the water bath and allow to cool to room temperature, 2 to 3 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate the pâté overnight before serving. (The pâté will keep for up to 1 1/2 weeks refrigerated.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices and serve with cornichons and mustard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright © 2011 by Jacques Pépin. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">More \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em> television episode information\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Customarily served cold with French mustard and small cornichons, it makes a good first course for an evening meal or a light lunch with a salad and country bread. Serve a robust red wine.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1596435805,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":382},"headData":{"title":"Pork Liver Pâté | KQED","description":"Quick and easy recipes from the Essential Pépin series. Learn how to make Pork Liver Pâté.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Pork Liver Pâté","datePublished":"2011-09-13T07:05:38.000Z","dateModified":"2020-08-03T06:23:25.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"138138 http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/?p=569","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/13/pork-liver-pate/","disqusTitle":"Pork Liver Pâté","path":"/bayareabites/138138/pork-liver-pate","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">From the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Essential Pépin\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> tv series, \u003c/span>Episode 107: Economical Offal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the standard meat and liver pâté available in most supermarkets in France, as well as at small restaurants and bistros. A special curing salt gives the pâté its beautiful pink color and great taste. Customarily served cold with French mustard and small cornichons, it makes a good first course for an evening meal or a light lunch with a salad and country bread. Serve a robust red wine. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 ounces pork liver, nerves and sinews removed and diced\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground pork (about 70% lean and 30% fat; shoulder or Boston butt is good)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup dry white wine\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 teaspoons curing salt, preferably Morton Tender Quick\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground thyme\u003cbr>\n1 garlic clove, crushed and very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n2 bay leaves\u003cbr>\nCornichons (tiny French gherkins)\u003cbr>\nDijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drop the diced liver into a blender and blend for 35 to 50 seconds, or until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the ground pork to the livers, then add the wine, salt, pepper, thyme, and garlic and mix thoroughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the meat mixture into a terrine measuring 8 to 10 inches long, 4 to 5 inches wide, and 4 to 6 inches deep. Arrange the bay leaves on top. Cover the terrine with aluminum foil, set it in a baking pan, and pour enough lukewarm water around it to come at least three quarters of the way up the sides of the terrine. Bake for 2 1/2 hours, or until the pâté reaches an internal temperature of about 145 degrees. Remove from the water bath and allow to cool to room temperature, 2 to 3 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate the pâté overnight before serving. (The pâté will keep for up to 1 1/2 weeks refrigerated.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices and serve with cornichons and mustard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright © 2011 by Jacques Pépin. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">More \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em> television episode information\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138138/pork-liver-pate","authors":["5083"],"series":["bayareabites_16657"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_16661","bayareabites_16788","bayareabites_16789","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_8476","bayareabites_16859","bayareabites_242","bayareabites_16658","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_2981","bayareabites_16790"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138239","label":"bayareabites_16657"},"bayareabites_138137":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_138137","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"138137","score":null,"sort":[1315895673000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"braised-sweetbreads-in-mirepoix","title":"Braised Sweetbreads in Mirepoix","publishDate":1315895673,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Jacques Pepin | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16657,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">From the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Essential Pépin\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> tv series, \u003c/span>Episode 107: Economical Offal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this recipe, the sweetbreads are separated into pieces, braised in a vegetable sauce, and served in cream cheese barquettes. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 6\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Barquettes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces cream cheese\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n1 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sweetbreads\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 pounds sweetbreads, blanched and pressed\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n2 celery stalks, cut into 1/8-inch dice (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 leek, trimmed (leaving some green); split; washed; and cut into 1/8-inch pieces (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch dice (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 medium onion, cut into 1/8-inch dice (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 large or 2 medium tomatoes (10 ounces); peeled; halved; seeded; and chopped\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon chopped garlic\u003cbr>\n1 cup Brown Sauce (\u003cstrong>see recipe below\u003c/strong>)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dry white wine\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n4 or 5 fresh thyme sprigs\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon potato starch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FOR THE BARQUETTES:\u003c/strong> Combine the cream cheese and butter in a food processor and process about 5 seconds to mix well. Add the flour and process just long enough for the dough to hold together. Wrap the dough in plastic and allow it to rest in the refrigerator for a few hours to firm up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle the work surface with flour and roll out the dough, pressing on it lightly with your rolling pin. Keep rolling, extending the dough from the center outward in all directions, rather than just rolling back and forth, which tends to develop the gluten and toughen the dough. The dough should be about ¼ inch thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll it up onto the rolling pin and brush any flour off the dough. Arrange little barquette molds (about 4 inches long by 2 inches wide) side by side on the work surface, unroll it on top of the barquettes. Press the dough into the molds, then roll the rolling pin on top of the molds to trim off the extra dough. If the barquettes are not completely separated, press the dough on the edges of the barquettes to cut it off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prevent the dough from shrinking, falling on itself, or getting too many bubbles while cooking, press another mold on top of the dough in each barquette to thin it further and make it adhere well to the mold. In this way, the dough will conform to the inside of the bottom molds and keep its shape during cooking. (Leave these barquettes in place.) Let the barquettes rest for 1 hour to help prevent shrinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the over to 400 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange the molds on a cookie sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes; by then the dough will have set. Remove the top molds and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, to brown nicely. Remove the barquettes from their molds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FOR THE SWEETBREADS:\u003c/strong> Break the sweetbreads into 1-inch lumps, separating them from the connecting tissue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a large saucepan. When it is hot, add the celery, leeks, carrots, and onions and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are wilted and soft. Add the tomatoes, garlic, brown sauce, wine, salt, pepper, thyme sprigs, and sweetbreads, and bring to a boil, then cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the dissolved potato starch to the sweetbread mixture to thicken it slightly, then add the fluted mushrooms and warm for about 30 seconds in the sauce. Arrange a barquette in the middle of each plate. Fill with sweetbreads, and spoon more of the mixture around the plate. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BASIC BROWN SAUCE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes about 2 quarts\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A basic and essential ingredient for the cook, brown sauce is added to other sauces or used to create a sauce for meat or poultry. Mine is slightly thickened with flour, which loses its raw taste through the long cooking process. The sauce can be made with all chicken bones or with turkey bones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 pounds veal or beef bones (shins, necks, tails, etc.), cut into 3-inch pieces (you can have the butcher do this)\u003cbr>\n1 pound chicken bones (necks, wings, backs, etc.)\u003cbr>\n2 cups diced onions\u003cbr>\n1 cup diced carrots\u003cbr>\n1 cup diced celery\u003cbr>\n6 garlic cloves, crushed but not peeled\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup all-purpose flour, dissolved in 1½ cups water\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup tomato paste\u003cbr>\n8 quarts cold water\u003cbr>\n1 cup dry white wine\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons dark soy sauce\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n3 bay leaves\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon crushed dried thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the bones in a large stockpot and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for another 15 minutes, until they are browned and have rendered some fat. (There should be enough fat on the bones and in the skin to brown the bones.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook for another 15 minutes or so, stirring, until the bones and vegetables are lightly browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain the bones and vegetables in a colander to eliminate the fat and return them to the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the flour mixture, tomato paste, water, wine, soy sauce, peppercorns, bay leaves, and thyme to the pot and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer slowly, uncovered, for about 3 hours, until reduced to about 8 cups. Skim off and discard the foam that comes to the top after 30 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine strainer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sauce can be kept covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or it can be divided among small plastic containers and frozen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ALTERNATE METHOD:\u003c/strong> Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Arrange the bones in one layer in a large roasting pan or on a baking sheet and roast for 1 hour, stirring the bones to brown on all sides. Sprinkle the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic on top and roast for another 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain the bones and vegetables in a colander and discard the fat. Add the bones to a stockpot. Deglaze the roasting pan or cookie sheet with 2 to 3 cups water and heat to melt the solidified glaze. Add to the stockpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continue with the recipe, adding the flour, tomato paste, the water, and the other ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright © 2011 by Jacques Pépin. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">More \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em> television episode information\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In this recipe, the sweetbreads are separated into pieces, braised in a vegetable sauce, and served in cream cheese barquettes.\r\n ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1596574190,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":1101},"headData":{"title":"Braised Sweetbreads in Mirepoix | KQED","description":"Quick and easy recipes from the Essential Pépin series. Learn how to make Braised Sweetbreads in Mirepoix.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Braised Sweetbreads in Mirepoix","datePublished":"2011-09-13T06:34:33.000Z","dateModified":"2020-08-04T20:49:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"138137 http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/?p=552","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/12/braised-sweetbreads-in-mirepoix/","disqusTitle":"Braised Sweetbreads in Mirepoix","path":"/bayareabites/138137/braised-sweetbreads-in-mirepoix","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">From the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Essential Pépin\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> tv series, \u003c/span>Episode 107: Economical Offal\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this recipe, the sweetbreads are separated into pieces, braised in a vegetable sauce, and served in cream cheese barquettes. \u003cem>—Jacques Pépin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 6\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Barquettes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces cream cheese\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n1 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sweetbreads\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 pounds sweetbreads, blanched and pressed\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n2 celery stalks, cut into 1/8-inch dice (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 leek, trimmed (leaving some green); split; washed; and cut into 1/8-inch pieces (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch dice (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 medium onion, cut into 1/8-inch dice (about 1 cup)\u003cbr>\n1 large or 2 medium tomatoes (10 ounces); peeled; halved; seeded; and chopped\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon chopped garlic\u003cbr>\n1 cup Brown Sauce (\u003cstrong>see recipe below\u003c/strong>)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dry white wine\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n4 or 5 fresh thyme sprigs\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon potato starch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FOR THE BARQUETTES:\u003c/strong> Combine the cream cheese and butter in a food processor and process about 5 seconds to mix well. Add the flour and process just long enough for the dough to hold together. Wrap the dough in plastic and allow it to rest in the refrigerator for a few hours to firm up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle the work surface with flour and roll out the dough, pressing on it lightly with your rolling pin. Keep rolling, extending the dough from the center outward in all directions, rather than just rolling back and forth, which tends to develop the gluten and toughen the dough. The dough should be about ¼ inch thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll it up onto the rolling pin and brush any flour off the dough. Arrange little barquette molds (about 4 inches long by 2 inches wide) side by side on the work surface, unroll it on top of the barquettes. Press the dough into the molds, then roll the rolling pin on top of the molds to trim off the extra dough. If the barquettes are not completely separated, press the dough on the edges of the barquettes to cut it off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prevent the dough from shrinking, falling on itself, or getting too many bubbles while cooking, press another mold on top of the dough in each barquette to thin it further and make it adhere well to the mold. In this way, the dough will conform to the inside of the bottom molds and keep its shape during cooking. (Leave these barquettes in place.) Let the barquettes rest for 1 hour to help prevent shrinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the over to 400 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange the molds on a cookie sheet and bake for 15 to 20 minutes; by then the dough will have set. Remove the top molds and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, to brown nicely. Remove the barquettes from their molds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FOR THE SWEETBREADS:\u003c/strong> Break the sweetbreads into 1-inch lumps, separating them from the connecting tissue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a large saucepan. When it is hot, add the celery, leeks, carrots, and onions and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are wilted and soft. Add the tomatoes, garlic, brown sauce, wine, salt, pepper, thyme sprigs, and sweetbreads, and bring to a boil, then cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the dissolved potato starch to the sweetbread mixture to thicken it slightly, then add the fluted mushrooms and warm for about 30 seconds in the sauce. Arrange a barquette in the middle of each plate. Fill with sweetbreads, and spoon more of the mixture around the plate. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BASIC BROWN SAUCE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes about 2 quarts\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A basic and essential ingredient for the cook, brown sauce is added to other sauces or used to create a sauce for meat or poultry. Mine is slightly thickened with flour, which loses its raw taste through the long cooking process. The sauce can be made with all chicken bones or with turkey bones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 pounds veal or beef bones (shins, necks, tails, etc.), cut into 3-inch pieces (you can have the butcher do this)\u003cbr>\n1 pound chicken bones (necks, wings, backs, etc.)\u003cbr>\n2 cups diced onions\u003cbr>\n1 cup diced carrots\u003cbr>\n1 cup diced celery\u003cbr>\n6 garlic cloves, crushed but not peeled\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup all-purpose flour, dissolved in 1½ cups water\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup tomato paste\u003cbr>\n8 quarts cold water\u003cbr>\n1 cup dry white wine\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons dark soy sauce\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n3 bay leaves\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon crushed dried thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the bones in a large stockpot and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for another 15 minutes, until they are browned and have rendered some fat. (There should be enough fat on the bones and in the skin to brown the bones.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook for another 15 minutes or so, stirring, until the bones and vegetables are lightly browned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain the bones and vegetables in a colander to eliminate the fat and return them to the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the flour mixture, tomato paste, water, wine, soy sauce, peppercorns, bay leaves, and thyme to the pot and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer slowly, uncovered, for about 3 hours, until reduced to about 8 cups. Skim off and discard the foam that comes to the top after 30 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine strainer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sauce can be kept covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or it can be divided among small plastic containers and frozen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ALTERNATE METHOD:\u003c/strong> Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Arrange the bones in one layer in a large roasting pan or on a baking sheet and roast for 1 hour, stirring the bones to brown on all sides. Sprinkle the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic on top and roast for another 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain the bones and vegetables in a colander and discard the fat. Add the bones to a stockpot. Deglaze the roasting pan or cookie sheet with 2 to 3 cups water and heat to melt the solidified glaze. Add to the stockpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continue with the recipe, adding the flour, tomato paste, the water, and the other ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright © 2011 by Jacques Pépin. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">More \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em> television episode information\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138137/braised-sweetbreads-in-mirepoix","authors":["5083"],"series":["bayareabites_16657"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_16661","bayareabites_16788","bayareabites_16789","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_16787","bayareabites_8476","bayareabites_16859","bayareabites_242","bayareabites_16658","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_2981"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138261","label":"bayareabites_16657"},"bayareabites_10420":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_10420","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"10420","score":null,"sort":[1265742549000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"fast-food-futures","title":"Fast Food Futures","publishDate":1265742549,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/inandout.jpg\" alt=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" title=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10422\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An East Coaster gets his first taste of In-N-Out Burger. Photo by Michael V. Chopko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, my house was healthy. Bran stocked the cupboard, gallons of skim milk sat in the fridge. We didn't eat fast food except on rare occasions. On busy nights, my parents picked up sprout-laden sandwiches and baked potatoes from our nearest \u003ca href=\"http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3190/is_v19/ai_3680221/\">Fresher Cooker\u003c/a> franchise. After multi-million dollar losses year after year, the locally-owned company (conceived as a healthy alternative to burger joints) filed for bankruptcy, folded, and the restaurant in the strip mall parking lot near my house fell apart and came back together as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.skylinechili.com/\">Skyline Chili\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast food mainly happened on road trips then, when we'd drive from Louisville to New Orleans or Northern Florida for a vacation. I remember one drive down with my brother and dad. I must have been ten. We stopped for fries and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_Deluxe\">Arch Deluxes\u003c/a>. I had a fish sandwich. An hour later, not far from Tuscaloosa, Alabama, my brother started throwing up. He hadn't been poisoned; he was car-sick, a tendency worsened by his habit of doodling in notebooks as the Volvo heaved and pitched over I-65's pocked surface. We stopped at a gas station so my dad could clean him off and buy a styrofoam cooler. My brother was still throwing up, leaning out of the car, near the pump. A scraggly old yokel sauntered over. \"What's wrong with 'im?\" he asked, practically chuckling. My brother threw up into the cooler all the way to Hattiesburg. As soon as he was done, he wanted another burger. Vegetarianism dulled the allure of fast food for a while, but even in college, it permeated the culture. My senior year, I lived next to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rax_(restaurant)\">Rax\u003c/a>, a pitiful little lump of a franchise my friends and I always assumed was the last of its kind in the country -- so disconnected so under-patronized that perhaps -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edwina,_the_Dinosaur_Who_Didn't_Know_She_Was_Extinct\">Edwina, the cookie-baking dinosaur\u003c/a> -- it hadn't gotten wind of its own extinction. Then, for some people, going for fries at Rax was as palatably ironic an act as stacking toilet sculptures in the main quad or carefully growing a neat cop-style mustache to sport above a bemused smirk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, I avoid fast food. I strive to eat healthily, responsibly, and well -- and I manage to get two out of three right most of the time. In other words, if I'm going to eat fried chicken, it's going to be good fried chicken -- featuring a bird whose life was reasonably pleasant prior to its sudden conclusion. However, this general rule isn't always easy to follow. Over the last five years, I have spent a lot of time touring around the country playing music -- and eating on the road in any way resembling that to which I am accustomed in San Francisco is tough if not impossible. If I were more of an urban homesteader, I'd make my own jerky, dry fruit, and roast nuts for snacks. Instead, ducking into parking lights, entranced by warm neon glows, I forage along the inter-states with wildly varying results. Thanks to a soggy half-rotten \"veggie delight\" foot-long somewhere in Michigan, I haven't eaten anything from \u003ca href=\"http://www.subway.com/subwayroot/index.aspx\">Subway\u003c/a> in three years, and I never will again. On the other hand, I have learned that Arby's makes a decent vegetable soup. Its coffee shakes are good too. I have also learned that \u003ca href=\"http://www.carlsjr.com/\">Carl's Jr.\u003c/a> has one healthy sandwich that doesn't make me feel sick after I eat it: the grilled chicken with barbecue sauce and crunchy lettuce on a whole wheat bun. The sauce tastes like low-cal ketchup dosed with liquid smoke, but I don't quibble. I'm always happy to see that yellow star rising up on a pole in the dark next to the highway. In general, grocery stores are better than restaurants. Whenever I stumble across a reasonably well-appointed one, I buy carrots, bananas, bread, and peanut butter, or some deli turkey and cheese. While these eats assault my body with less malice, something remains appealing about fast food on the road, particularly when it's eaten in the car, as music hums from the stereo, and the windows rattles as the wheels tumble along. Towns give way to cities, suburbs, and towns again. The windshield steams up from unwrapped burgers. A greasy smell oozes into the upholstery and hangs in the air between the front seats. Ketchup packets fall on the van floor. Someone steps on one, and he is cursed as red spits across the carpet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the West Coast, \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/\">In-N-Out Burger\u003c/a> -- every famous chef's favorite drive-through -- reigns supreme. My band was heading up from Los Angeles last weekend. As we approached the parking lot, the keyboardist, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118715/trivia\">Lebowski\u003c/a> fan visiting from D.C., awoke from a two-hour nap and practically dived out of the rolling van to get his first taste. While little approaches a double-double animal-style, the Midwest and East Coast offer a few nice options you can't get out here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.wawa.com/WawaWeb/\">Wawa\u003c/a>, a Mid-Atlantic chain of convenience stores, has excellent sandwiches you can customize via touch-screen. Frequently found in service plazas along East Coast turnpikes, the Falls Church, Virginia-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.royrogersrestaurants.com/\">Roy Rogers\u003c/a> has the \"Gold Rush\" chicken sandwich, fried breast on a roll with bacon, melted provolone, and honey barbecue sauce. The closest \u003ca href=\"http://www.whitecastle.com/\">White Castle\u003c/a> outpost may be 1 and 1/3 days away from us by car -- in Shakopee, Minnesota to be exact -- but you can buy frozen sliders from Walgreen's stores anywhere. I know because I have done so from the one on 24th and Potrero. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fast food restaurants have short menus focusing on a specific culinary theme -- fried chicken and little besides fried chicken, just burgers, or chili -- and others, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.jackinthebox.com/\">Jack in the Box\u003c/a>, for example, try to be all things for all customers, offering tacos, egg rolls, and cheese-steaks as well as burgers and fries. In my experience, the former -- focused, quality-conscious enterprises in the vein of In-N-Out Burger -- tend to be more successful. To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/offalchris\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> and the proprietors of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/old-jerusalem-restaurant-san-francisco\">Old Jerusalem\u003c/a> would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mini-cassoulets. Sounds a little precious for sure, but I think even road-trippers in far-flung bastions of rigidity would warm up -- especially in snowy weather. I know I would have loved to stumble across a franchise of Le Petit Confit zipping across Nebraska several Februarys ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past fall, New York City Momofuku impresario \u003ca href=\"http://wineguyworld.blogspot.com/2009/11/blog-post.html\">David Chang\u003c/a> ticked off a bunch of sensitive locals when he semi-drunkenly accused low-watt San Francisco chefs of \"fuckin' just serving figs on a plate.\" He might have been taking a cue from an expat. Over the summer, former A16 and SPQR chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/02/dining/02nate.html\">Nate Appleman\u003c/a> abruptly abandoned local stardom to move to New York in search of a louder buzz. He popped up in a New York Times profile to lightly dis San Francisco diners: \"In San Francisco the audience is easy. You put tripe in a bowl and tell them it's from a humanely raised cow and they're going to eat it.\" In honor of both famous chefs' opinions, someone should start a faux-Chez Panisse fast food restaurant serving austere mockeries of the perfect-simple-thing-in-a-bowl motif: shriveled radish slices with table salt, canned pears with a touch of low-grade honey, and gassed half-green tomatoes with \"balsamic\" drizzles -- all served with pseudo-artisan sourdough bread. Bowls and Rolls -- it'll be huge, I'm telling you.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\r\n\r\nOffal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. Chris Cosentino and the proprietors of Old Jerusalem would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1265742592,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":1376},"headData":{"title":"Fast Food Futures | KQED","description":"To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\r\n\r\nOffal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. Chris Cosentino and the proprietors of Old Jerusalem would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Fast Food Futures","datePublished":"2010-02-09T19:09:09.000Z","dateModified":"2010-02-09T19:09:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"10420 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=10420","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/09/fast-food-futures/","disqusTitle":"Fast Food Futures","path":"/bayareabites/10420/fast-food-futures","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/02/inandout.jpg\" alt=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" title=\"East Coaster at In-N-Out Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10422\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>An East Coaster gets his first taste of In-N-Out Burger. Photo by Michael V. Chopko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, my house was healthy. Bran stocked the cupboard, gallons of skim milk sat in the fridge. We didn't eat fast food except on rare occasions. On busy nights, my parents picked up sprout-laden sandwiches and baked potatoes from our nearest \u003ca href=\"http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3190/is_v19/ai_3680221/\">Fresher Cooker\u003c/a> franchise. After multi-million dollar losses year after year, the locally-owned company (conceived as a healthy alternative to burger joints) filed for bankruptcy, folded, and the restaurant in the strip mall parking lot near my house fell apart and came back together as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.skylinechili.com/\">Skyline Chili\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast food mainly happened on road trips then, when we'd drive from Louisville to New Orleans or Northern Florida for a vacation. I remember one drive down with my brother and dad. I must have been ten. We stopped for fries and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch_Deluxe\">Arch Deluxes\u003c/a>. I had a fish sandwich. An hour later, not far from Tuscaloosa, Alabama, my brother started throwing up. He hadn't been poisoned; he was car-sick, a tendency worsened by his habit of doodling in notebooks as the Volvo heaved and pitched over I-65's pocked surface. We stopped at a gas station so my dad could clean him off and buy a styrofoam cooler. My brother was still throwing up, leaning out of the car, near the pump. A scraggly old yokel sauntered over. \"What's wrong with 'im?\" he asked, practically chuckling. My brother threw up into the cooler all the way to Hattiesburg. As soon as he was done, he wanted another burger. Vegetarianism dulled the allure of fast food for a while, but even in college, it permeated the culture. My senior year, I lived next to a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rax_(restaurant)\">Rax\u003c/a>, a pitiful little lump of a franchise my friends and I always assumed was the last of its kind in the country -- so disconnected so under-patronized that perhaps -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edwina,_the_Dinosaur_Who_Didn't_Know_She_Was_Extinct\">Edwina, the cookie-baking dinosaur\u003c/a> -- it hadn't gotten wind of its own extinction. Then, for some people, going for fries at Rax was as palatably ironic an act as stacking toilet sculptures in the main quad or carefully growing a neat cop-style mustache to sport above a bemused smirk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, I avoid fast food. I strive to eat healthily, responsibly, and well -- and I manage to get two out of three right most of the time. In other words, if I'm going to eat fried chicken, it's going to be good fried chicken -- featuring a bird whose life was reasonably pleasant prior to its sudden conclusion. However, this general rule isn't always easy to follow. Over the last five years, I have spent a lot of time touring around the country playing music -- and eating on the road in any way resembling that to which I am accustomed in San Francisco is tough if not impossible. If I were more of an urban homesteader, I'd make my own jerky, dry fruit, and roast nuts for snacks. Instead, ducking into parking lights, entranced by warm neon glows, I forage along the inter-states with wildly varying results. Thanks to a soggy half-rotten \"veggie delight\" foot-long somewhere in Michigan, I haven't eaten anything from \u003ca href=\"http://www.subway.com/subwayroot/index.aspx\">Subway\u003c/a> in three years, and I never will again. On the other hand, I have learned that Arby's makes a decent vegetable soup. Its coffee shakes are good too. I have also learned that \u003ca href=\"http://www.carlsjr.com/\">Carl's Jr.\u003c/a> has one healthy sandwich that doesn't make me feel sick after I eat it: the grilled chicken with barbecue sauce and crunchy lettuce on a whole wheat bun. The sauce tastes like low-cal ketchup dosed with liquid smoke, but I don't quibble. I'm always happy to see that yellow star rising up on a pole in the dark next to the highway. In general, grocery stores are better than restaurants. Whenever I stumble across a reasonably well-appointed one, I buy carrots, bananas, bread, and peanut butter, or some deli turkey and cheese. While these eats assault my body with less malice, something remains appealing about fast food on the road, particularly when it's eaten in the car, as music hums from the stereo, and the windows rattles as the wheels tumble along. Towns give way to cities, suburbs, and towns again. The windshield steams up from unwrapped burgers. A greasy smell oozes into the upholstery and hangs in the air between the front seats. Ketchup packets fall on the van floor. Someone steps on one, and he is cursed as red spits across the carpet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the West Coast, \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/\">In-N-Out Burger\u003c/a> -- every famous chef's favorite drive-through -- reigns supreme. My band was heading up from Los Angeles last weekend. As we approached the parking lot, the keyboardist, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0118715/trivia\">Lebowski\u003c/a> fan visiting from D.C., awoke from a two-hour nap and practically dived out of the rolling van to get his first taste. While little approaches a double-double animal-style, the Midwest and East Coast offer a few nice options you can't get out here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.wawa.com/WawaWeb/\">Wawa\u003c/a>, a Mid-Atlantic chain of convenience stores, has excellent sandwiches you can customize via touch-screen. Frequently found in service plazas along East Coast turnpikes, the Falls Church, Virginia-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.royrogersrestaurants.com/\">Roy Rogers\u003c/a> has the \"Gold Rush\" chicken sandwich, fried breast on a roll with bacon, melted provolone, and honey barbecue sauce. The closest \u003ca href=\"http://www.whitecastle.com/\">White Castle\u003c/a> outpost may be 1 and 1/3 days away from us by car -- in Shakopee, Minnesota to be exact -- but you can buy frozen sliders from Walgreen's stores anywhere. I know because I have done so from the one on 24th and Potrero. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fast food restaurants have short menus focusing on a specific culinary theme -- fried chicken and little besides fried chicken, just burgers, or chili -- and others, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.jackinthebox.com/\">Jack in the Box\u003c/a>, for example, try to be all things for all customers, offering tacos, egg rolls, and cheese-steaks as well as burgers and fries. In my experience, the former -- focused, quality-conscious enterprises in the vein of In-N-Out Burger -- tend to be more successful. To play with the idea, I've come up with a few unique fast food concepts -- inspired appropriately by San Francisco -- to diversify the field.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offal promises to stay hot in the food world. Falafel is a fast food Americans outside of cities don't know or trust yet. I was thinking a restaurant serving both could be both excellent and successful. \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/offalchris\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a> and the proprietors of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/old-jerusalem-restaurant-san-francisco\">Old Jerusalem\u003c/a> would have to consult. I would call it Fal-off-All in honor of Chik-fil-A and serve lavash wraps stuffed with fried sweetbreads, kidneys, and liver.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mini-cassoulets. Sounds a little precious for sure, but I think even road-trippers in far-flung bastions of rigidity would warm up -- especially in snowy weather. I know I would have loved to stumble across a franchise of Le Petit Confit zipping across Nebraska several Februarys ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past fall, New York City Momofuku impresario \u003ca href=\"http://wineguyworld.blogspot.com/2009/11/blog-post.html\">David Chang\u003c/a> ticked off a bunch of sensitive locals when he semi-drunkenly accused low-watt San Francisco chefs of \"fuckin' just serving figs on a plate.\" He might have been taking a cue from an expat. Over the summer, former A16 and SPQR chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/02/dining/02nate.html\">Nate Appleman\u003c/a> abruptly abandoned local stardom to move to New York in search of a louder buzz. He popped up in a New York Times profile to lightly dis San Francisco diners: \"In San Francisco the audience is easy. You put tripe in a bowl and tell them it's from a humanely raised cow and they're going to eat it.\" In honor of both famous chefs' opinions, someone should start a faux-Chez Panisse fast food restaurant serving austere mockeries of the perfect-simple-thing-in-a-bowl motif: shriveled radish slices with table salt, canned pears with a touch of low-grade honey, and gassed half-green tomatoes with \"balsamic\" drizzles -- all served with pseudo-artisan sourdough bread. Bowls and Rolls -- it'll be huge, I'm telling you.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/10420/fast-food-futures","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_2982","bayareabites_1435","bayareabites_3446","bayareabites_2981"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_8158":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_8158","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"8158","score":null,"sort":[1258305391000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"primal-napa","title":"Primal Napa ","publishDate":1258305391,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Have you tried the lamb brains?\" \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, it was just that sort of party. The lamb brains, so I was told, were simply smashing--like meaty custard, in the best possible way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.artofthebutcher.com\">Primal Napa\u003c/a> event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. There were the strips of grilled beef heart, for starters, and a whole roasted Musquee de Provence squash stuffed with chunks of pork liver. Then slim slices of headcheese, unctuous slathers of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/30/nduja-n-judah/\">nduja\u003c/a>, much salume, even entire smoke-blackened lambs' heads, complete with jutting teeth and curled, fibrous tongues. \"Yeah, just gnaw right on the jawbone,\" advised one chef-jacketed guy behind the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal1.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8187\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The setting was appropriately rustic, outside on a beautiful autumn afternoon, under the trees and up against the vines at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chasecellars.com/\">Chase Cellars' Hayne\u003c/a> vineyard in Napa, with hay bales scattered and, for Napa, quite a young and stylish crowd. There was definitely money here, cool money with BMWs parked in the grass, strolling over for scoops of lamb brains and chunks of rare goat right off the bone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal3.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8185\">Back in the hot zone, surrounded by smoking coals, piles of logs and a whole Mediterranean coastline of fresh rosemary branches was Mr. Meat himself, Incanto and Boccalone's\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\"> Chris Cosentino\u003c/a>, jogging from fire to fire in his flaming orange t-shirt emblazoned \"USDA Choice,\" his voice worn to a rasp. In fact, all the cooks seemed to be having a swell time, getting sweaty and grimy surrounded by fire and meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mopping \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harissa\">harissa\u003c/a> marinade over a long spitted row of feet-on chickens, nuzzling a flat of eggs into a pillow of hot ash, angling an entire spread-eagled goat (furry hooves intact) over a pile of flaming coals: the concept may have been based in subsistence cooking, but the style was deep in the smoky flair that only flambeing can bring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mood was definitely gleeful--meat does that to people--and in a funny way, honest. There was no getting away from the fact that eating here meant eating something that once had a face, because that face, or at least the edible bits of it--the tongue, the cheeks, even the eyeballs--were probably right there on the table next to the legs or ribs or tenderloin. And the animals had a pedigree: ask any cook, and they could tell you where the meat they were roasting came from, who raised it and how. \u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elbowing up to the platter of slow-cooked pork \u003ca href=\"http://www.hudsonvineyards.com/hudson-ranch.html\">Hudson Ranch\u003c/a> pork belly (divine), one could eavesdrop on any number of serious discussions about heritage pig breeding. Get distracted for a few moments by the leather-and-chocolate Pinots from \u003ca href=\"http://www.hirschvineyards.com\">Hirsch Vineyards\u003c/a>, and the roasted goat legs would be all but picked clean, although a few succulent morsels could always be chiseled off and shared by the kind woman wielding a chef's knife on the other side of the table. This wasn't down-home (the highlights and sunglasses on display were much too expensive for that) but there weren't any waiters or coddling, either. In fact, you had to do a little begging just to score a little paper plate and skimpy napkin. Some of the meat was in bite-sized slices; some was simply hacked up and plattered, letting the hungry pull through the shreds and fat with eager hands and plastic forks. \u003cem>We cooked it,\u003c/em> the attitude seemed to be. \u003cem>You figure it out. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal4.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8184\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up front were hands-on displays of rock-star butchering (a cross-coast trend recently chronicled in the New York Times under the headline \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html\">Slaughterhouse Live\u003c/a>) with \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> founder Taylor Boetticher whipping through a beef forequarter with deft strokes and cool aplomb. Neatly wiggling out the ball of a shoulder, he pointed out that this particular breakdown didn't require too much finesse, since all the meat was destined for sliders, a rough grind of aged meat and creamy fat made into mini-burgers for the hungry hordes. (Too true: with all the variety meats on display, the table handing out hot dogs and burgers was the one with the surging six-deep, hands-out crowd, right from the moment the patties hit the grill.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal2.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8186\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, the list of participants read like a who's who of current carnivorishness: Fatted Calf, 4505 Meats, Boccalone, Avedano's, Perbacco, Star Meats...and Ubuntu? Wait, \u003cstrong>that\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>, Napa's famous yoga-studio/vegetarian restaurant, the place my vegan cousin and his new bride had a nearly religious experience over the cauliflower three ways? Thankfully, Ubuntu chef Jeremy Fox (not himself a vegetarian) joined the party to show that open fire-cooking can do wonderful things to vegetables, too. There were terra cotta pots brimming with Rancho Gordo beans in spicy broth, slippery whole roasted torpedo onions, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun slipped away and the strings of white lights lit up across the wine-pouring booths, the heavy hitters came out, finally ready after their hours in the hot zone, staked and salted, roasted and smoky. It was primal, and it was delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sorry, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">Mr. Foer\u003c/a>. You may not eat it any more, but you know how good it can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos by Stacy Cahill\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The lamb brains, I was told, were simply smashing. Like meaty custard, in the best possible way. But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first Primal Napa event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1258348706,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":893},"headData":{"title":"Primal Napa | KQED","description":"The lamb brains, I was told, were simply smashing. Like meaty custard, in the best possible way. But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first Primal Napa event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Primal Napa ","datePublished":"2009-11-15T17:16:31.000Z","dateModified":"2009-11-16T05:18:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"8158 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=8158","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/15/primal-napa/","disqusTitle":"Primal Napa ","path":"/bayareabites/8158/primal-napa","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Have you tried the lamb brains?\" \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, it was just that sort of party. The lamb brains, so I was told, were simply smashing--like meaty custard, in the best possible way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the lamb brains weren't the half of it. The outdoor tables at last weekend's first \u003ca href=\"http://www.artofthebutcher.com\">Primal Napa\u003c/a> event were a head-to-tail, guts-and-all celebration of going deep with meat. There were the strips of grilled beef heart, for starters, and a whole roasted Musquee de Provence squash stuffed with chunks of pork liver. Then slim slices of headcheese, unctuous slathers of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/30/nduja-n-judah/\">nduja\u003c/a>, much salume, even entire smoke-blackened lambs' heads, complete with jutting teeth and curled, fibrous tongues. \"Yeah, just gnaw right on the jawbone,\" advised one chef-jacketed guy behind the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal1.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8187\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The setting was appropriately rustic, outside on a beautiful autumn afternoon, under the trees and up against the vines at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chasecellars.com/\">Chase Cellars' Hayne\u003c/a> vineyard in Napa, with hay bales scattered and, for Napa, quite a young and stylish crowd. There was definitely money here, cool money with BMWs parked in the grass, strolling over for scoops of lamb brains and chunks of rare goat right off the bone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal3.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Chris Cosentino at Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8185\">Back in the hot zone, surrounded by smoking coals, piles of logs and a whole Mediterranean coastline of fresh rosemary branches was Mr. Meat himself, Incanto and Boccalone's\u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\"> Chris Cosentino\u003c/a>, jogging from fire to fire in his flaming orange t-shirt emblazoned \"USDA Choice,\" his voice worn to a rasp. In fact, all the cooks seemed to be having a swell time, getting sweaty and grimy surrounded by fire and meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mopping \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harissa\">harissa\u003c/a> marinade over a long spitted row of feet-on chickens, nuzzling a flat of eggs into a pillow of hot ash, angling an entire spread-eagled goat (furry hooves intact) over a pile of flaming coals: the concept may have been based in subsistence cooking, but the style was deep in the smoky flair that only flambeing can bring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mood was definitely gleeful--meat does that to people--and in a funny way, honest. There was no getting away from the fact that eating here meant eating something that once had a face, because that face, or at least the edible bits of it--the tongue, the cheeks, even the eyeballs--were probably right there on the table next to the legs or ribs or tenderloin. And the animals had a pedigree: ask any cook, and they could tell you where the meat they were roasting came from, who raised it and how. \u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elbowing up to the platter of slow-cooked pork \u003ca href=\"http://www.hudsonvineyards.com/hudson-ranch.html\">Hudson Ranch\u003c/a> pork belly (divine), one could eavesdrop on any number of serious discussions about heritage pig breeding. Get distracted for a few moments by the leather-and-chocolate Pinots from \u003ca href=\"http://www.hirschvineyards.com\">Hirsch Vineyards\u003c/a>, and the roasted goat legs would be all but picked clean, although a few succulent morsels could always be chiseled off and shared by the kind woman wielding a chef's knife on the other side of the table. This wasn't down-home (the highlights and sunglasses on display were much too expensive for that) but there weren't any waiters or coddling, either. In fact, you had to do a little begging just to score a little paper plate and skimpy napkin. Some of the meat was in bite-sized slices; some was simply hacked up and plattered, letting the hungry pull through the shreds and fat with eager hands and plastic forks. \u003cem>We cooked it,\u003c/em> the attitude seemed to be. \u003cem>You figure it out. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal4.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8184\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up front were hands-on displays of rock-star butchering (a cross-coast trend recently chronicled in the New York Times under the headline \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html\">Slaughterhouse Live\u003c/a>) with \u003ca href=\"http://www.fattedcalf.com/\">Fatted Calf\u003c/a> founder Taylor Boetticher whipping through a beef forequarter with deft strokes and cool aplomb. Neatly wiggling out the ball of a shoulder, he pointed out that this particular breakdown didn't require too much finesse, since all the meat was destined for sliders, a rough grind of aged meat and creamy fat made into mini-burgers for the hungry hordes. (Too true: with all the variety meats on display, the table handing out hot dogs and burgers was the one with the surging six-deep, hands-out crowd, right from the moment the patties hit the grill.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/primal2.jpg\" alt=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" title=\"Primal Napa - photo by Stacy Cahill\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8186\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, the list of participants read like a who's who of current carnivorishness: Fatted Calf, 4505 Meats, Boccalone, Avedano's, Perbacco, Star Meats...and Ubuntu? Wait, \u003cstrong>that\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>, Napa's famous yoga-studio/vegetarian restaurant, the place my vegan cousin and his new bride had a nearly religious experience over the cauliflower three ways? Thankfully, Ubuntu chef Jeremy Fox (not himself a vegetarian) joined the party to show that open fire-cooking can do wonderful things to vegetables, too. There were terra cotta pots brimming with Rancho Gordo beans in spicy broth, slippery whole roasted torpedo onions, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the sun slipped away and the strings of white lights lit up across the wine-pouring booths, the heavy hitters came out, finally ready after their hours in the hot zone, staked and salted, roasted and smoky. It was primal, and it was delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sorry, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">Mr. Foer\u003c/a>. You may not eat it any more, but you know how good it can be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Photos by Stacy Cahill\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/8158/primal-napa","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_50"],"tags":["bayareabites_1596","bayareabites_2982","bayareabites_1531","bayareabites_2983","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_2981","bayareabites_2980","bayareabites_2979","bayareabites_2105"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. 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