Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi
Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built
Family Keeps Jewish Soulfood Alive At New York 'Appetizing' Store
On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli
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"disqusTitle": "Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi",
"title": "Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Now that you've all broken your week of unleavened, unfermented Passover eating with pizza and beer, it's time to jump back on the pastrami-sandwich bandwagon with a trip to San Francisco's newest Jewish-style deli, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shortygoldsteins.com\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Shorty Goldstein's, Michael Siegel\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Siegel, owner of Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, the name. Wince-worthy as it seemed on first hearing, owner Michael Siegel came by it honestly: Shorty was the nickname of his great-grandmother, Pauline Goldstein, and no Jewish deli-meister can hope for success without paying hommage to his \u003cem>bubbe.\u003c/em> Born in Tucson, Arizona, Siegel, who worked as a chef de cuisine at Betelnut for 5 years before jumping into restaurant ownership this year, grew up on the Jewish comfort food made by his Philadelphia and New York-bred relatives. Every year, \"Shorty\" would come visit for a month, enlisting the young Michael as her helper in rolling and stuffing the dozens of potato knishes she'd make for the family. Afterwards, Siegel's grandmother would dole them out, one at a time, making them last. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout his culinary career, through training in French, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, Siegel kept returning, in his mind, to the familiar briskets, latkes, and stuffed cabbages of his youth. And now, here they are, only done with a San Francisco spin, so that the cauliflower and beets are pickled in-house, the chopped chicken livers are packed in jam jars, and the rugulach are filled with apples and cardamom or strawberries and black pepper. (The small, fluffy knishes, however, are true to their originals.) So far, it's working: open for breakfast and lunch weekdays only in the Financial District, Shorty's has been enviably busy since its opening day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59594\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59594\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the first week, the line of suits and skirts-and-heels stretched back past the door by the dozens. Always curious about the next new thing--and never one to turn down the chance of tasty pastrami without the need for a plane ticket to New York or LA--we grabbed a counterside seat next to two nice ladies of a certain age. They were the kind who, in my New Jersey youth, would have been ace \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach/\">rugelach\u003c/a> bakers active in the synagogue sisterhood. Here, they were enjoying a corned beef sandwich and a tongue sandwich (a Thursday-only special), respectively. This being San Francisco, there's just no way to relate their enthusiasm for the tongue sandwich without it sounding irredeemably but unintentionally dirty, so I won't try, but suffice it say, it was a nice tongue sandwich, very much appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there's room for tables in the wood-floored, chalkboard-walled room, seats are limited to metal stools ranged along narrow counters clinging to the edges of the exposed brick walls. Despite friendly servers and pleasant amenities--cutlery with a nice heft to it, a tall glass dispenser of spa-like cucumber-mint water--the setup that doesn't encourage lingering, or ordering more than can fit in a single-plate line in front of you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Siegel, their house-cured pastrami is their top seller, outselling even the popular corned beef two to one. And, like the corned beef, it's some good stuff, flavorful and moist, maybe cut a little too thick, not quite as magically spicy/fatty/umami-fantastic as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons'\u003c/a>, but still an excellent reason to leave your desk. (They'll also double the meat, should you need the full mouth-stretching, Carnegie-Deli experience.) If only the bread were better. This beige, fluffy stuff hardly tastes of rye, and there's not a caraway seed in sight. Why not \u003ca href=\"http://www.semifreddis.com/products\">Semifreddi's Odessa Rye\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"http://acmebread.com/bread/rye\">Acme Bread's New York Rye\u003c/a>? After all, if the kitchen's going to all the trouble to make the Fridays-only tuna salad from super-scratch, using seared fresh albacore bound with house-made mayonnaise loaded with dill, red onions and celery, it should be embraced by bread that's worthy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59596\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59596\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bread is certainly better toasted, when small squares serve as a delivery vehicle for a jar of satisfyingly dense chopped chicken-liver spread, paired with surprisingly elegant wisps of pickled baby fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant has only a small flattop grill, making toasted sandwiches by the hundreds isn't an option; so far, the only hot sandwiches are the daily grilled cheese along with Wednesday's Rachel, which Siegel describes as a sister to the Reuben, made with pastrami, cole slaw, and Swiss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\" alt=\"Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59587\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's a very nice looking bowl of chicken soup with matzoh balls, although we were still having too much of a matzoh hangover from the past 8 days of Passover to try it. And while Shorty's is no \u003ca href=\"http://gracias-madre.com/\">Gracias Madre\u003c/a>, there is a daily vegetarian soup (potato-green garlic on a recent visit), the aforementioned grilled cheese and veggie sandwich, a well-stocked farmer's market salad (recently, baby lettuces, artichoke, avocado and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/our-cheese/aged-cheeses/midnight-moon.html#.UWElmDcTSx0\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> gouda, in a raisin-molasses dressing) and a pickle plate (currently, some pleasantly crisp cauliflower, tender asparagus and regrettably mushy, over-vinegared beets). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But enough of that. How's the egg cream? An egg cream, I must point out to you kombucha-swilling West Coasters, contains neither eggs nor cream. Essentially, it's an ice cream soda with no ice cream, made with a few fingers of chocolate syrup (purists swear by Brooklyn-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.foxs-syrups.com/\">Fox's U-Bet\u003c/a>) and milk foamed into a frothy, bubbly drink by a powerful jet of seltzer. Seltzer that's released, properly, from a glass siphon bottle, not a soda gun or worse, a screw-top bottle of lazy sparkling water. A real egg cream needs a sting behind it, the bubbles crisp and sharp on your tongue; otherwise, you might as well be drinking \u003ca href=\"http://www.drinkyoo-hoo.com/\">Yoo-hoo\u003c/a>. So far, no one in the Bay Area gets it right, to my taste--they're always too flat, too rich, too chocolatey-sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59589\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Salted Caramel Egg Cream\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted Caramel Egg Cream\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shorty's is getting close, although by my lights, their seltzer, even though it comes correctly out of a siphon, isn't quite powerfully fizzy enough. During opening week, the egg cream was an eyebrow-raising $5, making the comparison to \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJAc_aSM7E\">Pulp Fiction's $5 milkshake\u003c/a> inevitable. (It's since been dropped to $4.) But Siegel makes up for any lack of bubbles by offering seasonal flavors to go with the typical chocolate and vanilla. Right now, there's strawberry, made from a jammy concoction of fresh berries from \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Yerenafarms\">Yerena Farms\u003c/a> sweetened with agave syrup, and the pretty spectacular salted caramel, which is just as good as you'd think. Take that, New York!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/SGFIDI\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SGoldsteins\">@SGoldsteins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/6WlZm\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n126 Sutter St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94104\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 986-2676\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Fri 8am-4pm \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Salted caramel egg creams? Fresh albacore tuna salad? Michael Siegel, formerly a chef at Betelnut, gets back to his roots, San Francisco-style, at his new FiDi deli, Shorty Goldstein's. Stephanie Rosenbaum reports back on a pair of recent visits.",
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"description": "Salted caramel egg creams? Fresh albacore tuna salad? Michael Siegel, formerly a chef at Betelnut, gets back to his roots, San Francisco-style, at his new FiDi deli, Shorty Goldstein's. Stephanie Rosenbaum reports back on a pair of recent visits.",
"title": "Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi | KQED",
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"headline": "Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Now that you've all broken your week of unleavened, unfermented Passover eating with pizza and beer, it's time to jump back on the pastrami-sandwich bandwagon with a trip to San Francisco's newest Jewish-style deli, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shortygoldsteins.com\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Shorty Goldstein's, Michael Siegel\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Siegel, owner of Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, the name. Wince-worthy as it seemed on first hearing, owner Michael Siegel came by it honestly: Shorty was the nickname of his great-grandmother, Pauline Goldstein, and no Jewish deli-meister can hope for success without paying hommage to his \u003cem>bubbe.\u003c/em> Born in Tucson, Arizona, Siegel, who worked as a chef de cuisine at Betelnut for 5 years before jumping into restaurant ownership this year, grew up on the Jewish comfort food made by his Philadelphia and New York-bred relatives. Every year, \"Shorty\" would come visit for a month, enlisting the young Michael as her helper in rolling and stuffing the dozens of potato knishes she'd make for the family. Afterwards, Siegel's grandmother would dole them out, one at a time, making them last. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout his culinary career, through training in French, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, Siegel kept returning, in his mind, to the familiar briskets, latkes, and stuffed cabbages of his youth. And now, here they are, only done with a San Francisco spin, so that the cauliflower and beets are pickled in-house, the chopped chicken livers are packed in jam jars, and the rugulach are filled with apples and cardamom or strawberries and black pepper. (The small, fluffy knishes, however, are true to their originals.) So far, it's working: open for breakfast and lunch weekdays only in the Financial District, Shorty's has been enviably busy since its opening day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59594\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59594\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the first week, the line of suits and skirts-and-heels stretched back past the door by the dozens. Always curious about the next new thing--and never one to turn down the chance of tasty pastrami without the need for a plane ticket to New York or LA--we grabbed a counterside seat next to two nice ladies of a certain age. They were the kind who, in my New Jersey youth, would have been ace \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach/\">rugelach\u003c/a> bakers active in the synagogue sisterhood. Here, they were enjoying a corned beef sandwich and a tongue sandwich (a Thursday-only special), respectively. This being San Francisco, there's just no way to relate their enthusiasm for the tongue sandwich without it sounding irredeemably but unintentionally dirty, so I won't try, but suffice it say, it was a nice tongue sandwich, very much appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there's room for tables in the wood-floored, chalkboard-walled room, seats are limited to metal stools ranged along narrow counters clinging to the edges of the exposed brick walls. Despite friendly servers and pleasant amenities--cutlery with a nice heft to it, a tall glass dispenser of spa-like cucumber-mint water--the setup that doesn't encourage lingering, or ordering more than can fit in a single-plate line in front of you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Siegel, their house-cured pastrami is their top seller, outselling even the popular corned beef two to one. And, like the corned beef, it's some good stuff, flavorful and moist, maybe cut a little too thick, not quite as magically spicy/fatty/umami-fantastic as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons'\u003c/a>, but still an excellent reason to leave your desk. (They'll also double the meat, should you need the full mouth-stretching, Carnegie-Deli experience.) If only the bread were better. This beige, fluffy stuff hardly tastes of rye, and there's not a caraway seed in sight. Why not \u003ca href=\"http://www.semifreddis.com/products\">Semifreddi's Odessa Rye\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"http://acmebread.com/bread/rye\">Acme Bread's New York Rye\u003c/a>? After all, if the kitchen's going to all the trouble to make the Fridays-only tuna salad from super-scratch, using seared fresh albacore bound with house-made mayonnaise loaded with dill, red onions and celery, it should be embraced by bread that's worthy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59596\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59596\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bread is certainly better toasted, when small squares serve as a delivery vehicle for a jar of satisfyingly dense chopped chicken-liver spread, paired with surprisingly elegant wisps of pickled baby fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant has only a small flattop grill, making toasted sandwiches by the hundreds isn't an option; so far, the only hot sandwiches are the daily grilled cheese along with Wednesday's Rachel, which Siegel describes as a sister to the Reuben, made with pastrami, cole slaw, and Swiss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\" alt=\"Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59587\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's a very nice looking bowl of chicken soup with matzoh balls, although we were still having too much of a matzoh hangover from the past 8 days of Passover to try it. And while Shorty's is no \u003ca href=\"http://gracias-madre.com/\">Gracias Madre\u003c/a>, there is a daily vegetarian soup (potato-green garlic on a recent visit), the aforementioned grilled cheese and veggie sandwich, a well-stocked farmer's market salad (recently, baby lettuces, artichoke, avocado and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/our-cheese/aged-cheeses/midnight-moon.html#.UWElmDcTSx0\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> gouda, in a raisin-molasses dressing) and a pickle plate (currently, some pleasantly crisp cauliflower, tender asparagus and regrettably mushy, over-vinegared beets). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But enough of that. How's the egg cream? An egg cream, I must point out to you kombucha-swilling West Coasters, contains neither eggs nor cream. Essentially, it's an ice cream soda with no ice cream, made with a few fingers of chocolate syrup (purists swear by Brooklyn-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.foxs-syrups.com/\">Fox's U-Bet\u003c/a>) and milk foamed into a frothy, bubbly drink by a powerful jet of seltzer. Seltzer that's released, properly, from a glass siphon bottle, not a soda gun or worse, a screw-top bottle of lazy sparkling water. A real egg cream needs a sting behind it, the bubbles crisp and sharp on your tongue; otherwise, you might as well be drinking \u003ca href=\"http://www.drinkyoo-hoo.com/\">Yoo-hoo\u003c/a>. So far, no one in the Bay Area gets it right, to my taste--they're always too flat, too rich, too chocolatey-sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59589\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Salted Caramel Egg Cream\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted Caramel Egg Cream\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shorty's is getting close, although by my lights, their seltzer, even though it comes correctly out of a siphon, isn't quite powerfully fizzy enough. During opening week, the egg cream was an eyebrow-raising $5, making the comparison to \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJAc_aSM7E\">Pulp Fiction's $5 milkshake\u003c/a> inevitable. (It's since been dropped to $4.) But Siegel makes up for any lack of bubbles by offering seasonal flavors to go with the typical chocolate and vanilla. Right now, there's strawberry, made from a jammy concoction of fresh berries from \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Yerenafarms\">Yerena Farms\u003c/a> sweetened with agave syrup, and the pretty spectacular salted caramel, which is just as good as you'd think. Take that, New York!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/SGFIDI\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SGoldsteins\">@SGoldsteins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/6WlZm\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n126 Sutter St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94104\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 986-2676\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Fri 8am-4pm \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built",
"title": "Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n",
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"description": "What does it take to stay in business for 100 years selling herring? Stephanie Rosenbaum talks to Mark Russ Federman of New York City's legendary Russ & Daughters about his new memoir and the secret to his family's success. \r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes From The House That Herring Built by Mark Russ Federman\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-58235\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Overwhelming\" and \"unexpected\" is how smoked-fishmonger turned writer Mark Russ Federman describes the reaction to his recently published memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0805242945/kqedorg-20\">Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House That Herring Built\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt=\"Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters pink-and-green neon sign. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a>, for those of you who weren't lucky enough to grow up within Sunday-morning driving distance of its pink-and-green neon sign on the Lower East Side, is an \"appetizing\" store, a family business nearly 100 years old, still thriving under the ownership of the great-granddaughter and great-grandnephew of the original founder, Joel Russ. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wait, what's an \"appetizing\" store, you ask? Let's start with the smell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Push open the door at Russ & Daughters and the first thing to hit you is the store's unique aroma. It's a combination of smokiness from whitefish, salmon, sturgeon,and sable; the brininess of herrings and pickles; the yeastiness of freshly baked bagels and bialys, and the sweetness of rugelach, babka, chocolates, and halvah. How I wish I could bottle that singular scent--smoky, briny, yeasty and sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Russ Federman's description above shows, the \"appetizing\" store is a particularly Jewish-American category of business, specializing in smoked fish and dairy products. It arose out of kosher dietary laws, which forbid the mixing of milk and meat at the same meal or, indeed, in the same shop. So, when it came to prepared foods, the delicatessen, or deli, sold pastrami, corned beef, tongue, salami, chopped liver, chicken soup, and more, while the \"appetizing\" store stocked smoked and cured fish in all its forms, from pickled \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/Herring-on-menus-of-Bay-Area-restaurants-4283165.php\"> herring\u003c/a> to smoked salmon, along with the dairy to serve with it: cheese and cream cheese, plus pickles, sauerkraut, and often bagels, bialys, candies, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach\">rugelach\u003c/a>, chocolates, and dried fruit, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58237\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Tabletop600.jpg\" alt=\"A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration. Photo by Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58237\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Typical Appetizing Spread, Ready for a Family Celebration.\u003cbr>Photo by Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Appetizing stores--and Jewish bakeries, delis, restaurants, shops, and Yiddish theaters--flourished in New York City’s Lower East Side, where Jews from Russia, Poland, Hungary, and the rest of Central and Eastern Europe came fleeing persecution, seeking religious freedom or just looking, like so many other immigrants then and now, for economic opportunity and a better life for themselves and their children. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story that Russ Federman tells, of how his grandfather Joel Russ made it to the Lower East Side from a tiny village in Poland, and, with business savvy and a whole lot of grinding, day in-day out hard work, managed to go from selling herring from a barrel on the street to launching a store that remains a beloved New York landmark some 100 years later, is a classic American immigrant’s tale. But it also brings to life the lost Jewish world of the Lower East Side. My great-grandfather, also born in Poland, was a baker in the neighborhood; my grandmother, who came here as a child in the early 1900s, had stories of delivering hot rolls in a horse-drawn cart through the pushcarts crowding the tenement-lined streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That Joel Russ's three daughters Anne, Hattie, and Ida would work in the family business went without saying. As Russ Federman tells it, the family motto became \u003cem>\"Vi nempt men parnosa?\"\u003c/em> a Yiddish phrase he translates as \"From where do we take our living?\" The family's living came from the shop, and so the family, all of it, worked hard to make the shop successful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Joel Russ also recognized that his three smiling, pretty daughters were a draw that lured customers as much as a good price on schmaltz herring, and he turned the name of the business into Russ & Daughters. Son-in-laws were set up behind the counter, too, but the third generation, including Mark, weren't supposed to be shopkeepers. For them, the goal was college and a profession--a doctor, a lawyer, not a herring-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58234\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Federman600.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58234\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman. Photo: Belathée Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As expected, Russ Federman went to law school, passed the bar, and started practicing--only to discover that he wasn't happy practicing with a big uptown law firm. After years of being pressed into work at the shop during every school vacation and holiday, he came back to the shop in 1978 to learn the business and take some of the pressure off his aging parents. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My plan was to help them run the store part-time and practice law part-time. What was I smoking? The first day I took up my place behind the counter was the last day I practiced law. Even though I had worked there as a kid, I had no idea what it meant to be responsible for every piece of fish, every customer, and every employee every minute of the day.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It wasn't easy, stepping into the shoes of \"Mr. Russ,\" the public face and buck-stops-here owner. The men at the smokehouses where he bought their fish were tough, making him earn their respect, even slipping bad fish into his orders to see if he could pick them out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even when he had retired from active duty, after 35 years on the floor, customers who saw him in the shop thought nothing of ordering him to get behind the counter and fill their requests for lox and herring. As he writes in the beginning of the book, when one bossy elderly woman, ignoring the lines of waiting customers around her, insists that he should \"make her a herring\"--that is, skin, bone, and fillet a smoked herring for her while she waits, even though the case is filled with ready-to-go fillets, he loses patience and pulls rank. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>I went for the ultimate weapon in my arsenal. \"Lady, do you know who I am? I am Mr. Russ.\" I expected my pronouncement to end any further challenges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took less than a second for her response. \"I know you. You're not Mistar Russ. Your grandfadder vas Mistar Russ.\" \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>After passing on the business to his daughter Niki and nephew Josh in 2009, he found himself suddenly, if gratefully, no longer Mr. Russ. \"I wrote a book, basically, to give me something to do, keep me from just \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/yiddishisms.php\">potchking\u003c/a> [puttering] around. All those years, my persona was Mr. Russ, the guy behind the counter. You can get the bends, you stop too soon,\" he said in a recent phone interview. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He already had a built-in platform--the shop--for selling the book. He got an agent, then a publisher, and then, he just had to write it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Calvin] Bud Trillin said, 'Listen, Mark, you stay out of my business, I'll stay out of yours.' So then it was a challenge,\" he laughed. \"Who knew that writing could be harder than retail?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, Trillin, a popular writer and longtime fan of the shop, went on to write a heartfelt introduction to the book, updating a piece he'd written about the shop back in 1974. In the early 70s, Trillin, like my own father, was taking his daughters to the shop for their first tastes of halvah, herring, kippered salmon, and pickled lox. Now, he takes his grandchildren. As Trillin writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"But Russ and Daughters still looks about the same as it did when I described it, around forty years ago, as refutation of the false teaching that a store that sells pickled herring cannot have character and a clean display case at the same time...I know, because I can often be found there on a Sunday morning.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Russ Federman didn't just want to share whitefish-salad recipes and funny anecdotes of famous customers like Zero Mostel and Tony Bourdain. He wanted to capture his family's own stories, research their history, and \"make the Russ family proud of what we've been doing for the past 100 years,\" especially his 92 year old mother Anne and 100 year old aunt Hattie, the two remaining original Russ daughters. \"Because, for them, it was hard work and awful conditions.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Random House sent the first two copies of the book by FedEx to his mother and aunt in Florida, where they now live. Russ Federman opened the box with them and watched as they turned the pages peppered with old family photos. \"Of course, their first reaction was 'Why did you have to say that'? But then, they were totally thrilled. They were stopping, telling their own stories,\" as they went through the book. \"It took 3 years, but I accomplished my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book also details how the store went from neighbor herring purveyor to city institution, playing an essential part in the lives of its customers even as Jews left the Lower East Side, and the neighborhood sank into drug-fueled crime and squalor in the 70s and 80s, followed by artists and then ever-increasing gentrification over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even as, one by one, the old Jewish bakeries and delis closed, Russ & Daughters kept going, even after the downtown devastation of 9/11. You wanted to celebrate a bris, you ordered a smoked-fish platter. Sitting shiva after a death in the family, you ordered babka and rugalach, cookies and dried fruit for noshing. From the Yom Kippur break-fast to New Year's Day or just another Sunday morning, any day was a occasion made better with lox, sturgeon, smoked chub, herring salad, even caviar. The trick, of course, wasn't just the sterling quality of the fish; it was that the Russes had the \"schmooze gene,\" able to remember complete customer histories, not just of their tastes in sturgeon and lox but their medical histories, their foibles, and their family trees, and able to banter back and forth across the counter so that shopping there wasn't just shopping, it was an only-in-New-York experience, even for customers who'd long since relocated to Great Neck or New Rochelle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that everyone's got a crock of kraut going in the kitchen, does Russ Federman have advice for the next generation of would-be professional salmon-smokers and pickle makers dreaming of a storefront in Oakland or Bushwick? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forget cutesy names and logos, he tells me. \"Put your own name on the door. Because if your name is on it, every product, every bag, every thing that goes through that door has your ego, your personality, your life on it. Do that for 100 years. Then you'll be a success.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_58233\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/Beet-Salad600.jpg\" alt=\"Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-58233\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad. Photo: Matthew Hranek\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beet, Apple, and Herring Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Swedish mustard, which you can find at IKEA, has a sweet-spiced tang that matches very well with this combination of earthy beets, tart apple, and pickled herring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House that Herring Built, by Mark Russ Federman. Reprinted by permission.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPrep Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cooking Time: \u003c/strong>45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong> Total Time: \u003c/strong>1 hour 45 minutes, plus chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 6 to 8 servings\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6 to 8 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed (about 1 3/4-2 lbs)\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n2 tsp mild Swedish mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mustard Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp red wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp mild Swedish mustard\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp minced fresh dill\u003cbr>\nKosher salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4 inch dice\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n2 pickled herring fillets, cut into 1/4-inch dice\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup minced sour pickle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To prepare the beets, place them in a large saucepean and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beets are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain the beets and rinse with cold water until they are cool enough to handle. The skins should slip off easily. Cut the beets into quarters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk the red wine vinegar, oil, sugar, and mustard in a large bowl. Add the beets and toss to coat. Allow the beets to stand in the vinegar mixture for 2 hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To prepare the mustard sauce, combine the red wine vinegar, mustard, sugar, and honey in a medium bowl and whisk to blend. Slowly pour in the vegetable oil, whisking constantly. Whisk in the dill and salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Drain the beets and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Place them in a large bowl and add the apple, red onion, herring, and minced pickle. Pour half the mustard sauce over the salad and toss to blend. Add more mustard sauce a little at a time until the salad is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper as necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Russ Federman will be talking about his book with chef and cookbook author \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> on March 10 at 12pm at the San Francisco Jewish Community Center. The event is sold out, but the talk will be streamed live on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/lectures/culinary/brunch-w-russ-daughters/\">JCC website\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Family Keeps Jewish Soulfood Alive At New York 'Appetizing' Store",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 889px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters.jpg\" alt=\"Russ and Daughters, which opened on the Lower East Side in 1914, specializes in smoked fish. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\" width=\"889\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57756\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Russ & Daughters, which opened on the Lower East Side in 1914, specializes in smoked fish.\u003cbr>Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story on\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/03/173264635/family-keeps-jewish-soulfood-alive-at-new-york-appetizing-store\">Weekend Edition Sunday:\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/03/20130303_wesun_17.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Joel Rose, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/03/173264635/family-keeps-jewish-soulfood-alive-at-new-york-appetizing-store\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/1/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been more than 100 years since Joel Russ started peddling herring from a barrel on the streets of New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt='\"The House the Herring Built\" has served New York City for more than a century. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters' width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"The House the Herring Built\" has served New York City for more than a century. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, the restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a> is a destination for fans of smoked salmon, whitefish and caviar, among other delicacies. Longtime owner Mark Russ Federman has written a memoir about the family business called \u003cem>Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House the Herring Built\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"An appetizing store has the mingling odors of salt, smoke, pickle and sweet,\" says Federman, who ran Russ & Daughters from 1978 until he retired three years ago. \"So, all of that coming together makes for a unique sensory experience.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A century ago, the Lower East Side was packed with \"appetizing\" shops, where merchants would compete to satisfy the noshing needs of the neighborhood's Jewish clientele: pickled herring, smoked whitefish, sable and salmon, bagels and bialys, along with dried fruit, chocolate and candy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling fish is in Federman's blood. His grandfather Joel Russ immigrated to New York from what's now southeastern Poland and opened the store in 1914. Russ didn't have any sons — but he did have three daughters. And Federman says he put them to work behind the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Down here, there were 20, 30 appetizing stores. And a lot of them had a sign over the door that said, 'Saperstein and Son,' 'Cohen and Son,' whatever, and sons. Sons. Nobody had, 'and daughters,' \" Federman says. \"So, he put a sign that said Russ & Daughters. That made him unique.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Federman says Hattie, Ida and Anne helped the business in other ways, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57755\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-1939.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-1939-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman's mother, Anne, serves customers at Russ & Daughters in 1939. Photo: Courtesy of Russ & Daughters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57755\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman's mother, Anne, serves customers at Russ & Daughters in 1939. Photo: Courtesy of Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These pretty young girls would be fishing herrings out of barrels, and slicing lox, and charming and disarming the toughest of New York's customers,\" he says. \"And these were tough customers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike his aunts and mother, Mark Russ Federman did have a choice about working in the family business. Federman went to law school. He got a job at an uptown law firm — and hated it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1978, Federman came back to run the family business. And he was shocked at how hard the job was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're dealing with a finicky product,\" Federman says. \"We're talking about fish, most of it wild. Every fish is different. Every customer is different. Every employee is different. And the idea is to be able to line up fish and customer and counterman perfectly hundreds of times a day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the men and women behind the counter aren't all Russes. Some of them aren't even — heaven forbid — Jewish. Herman Vargas has been working here for 32 years, ever since he arrived in New York from the Dominican Republic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"There is something called \u003cem>bashert\u003c/em> in Yiddish, which is like destiny. Now I can say [it is] so,\" Vargas says of his chosen profession. \"But when I first came in no, no way.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Russ & Daughters survived long enough to be rediscovered by foodies and food writers. Now, Mark Federman has handed the business over to a fourth generation of Russes — his nephew, Josh Russ Tupper, and his daughter, Niki Russ Federman. They've tried to bring the store into the 21st century gently, with innovations like ordering over the Internet. Though not all of their customers are interested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"People will come back at me almost as if I've offended them,\" says Niki Federman. \"One person even said, 'Don't take my joy away from me. I have to come. I have to talk to Jose. He's my favorite counter guy. I've been seeing him for 30 years.'\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>All the Russes acknowledge that the success of the store is about more than the quality of its fish. That helps, says Federman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57758\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-and-daughters-owners.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-and-daughters-owners-290x218.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman (center) stands with the next generation of Russ and Daughters owners: his daughter Nikki and his nephew Josh Russ Tupper. Photo: Joel Rose/NPR \" width=\"290\" height=\"218\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57758\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman (center) stands with the next generation of Russ and Daughters owners: his daughter Nikki and his nephew Josh Russ Tupper.\u003cbr>Photo: Joel Rose/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But even after writing a book about the store, Federman says he's not quite sure why Russ and Daughters is still in business when so many appetizing stores aren't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"This store has a soul — a \u003cem>neshama\u003c/em>, as we say in Hebrew,\" says Federman. \"Some of the Russes get that. And that's what keeps us doing this kind of thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Even in retirement, Mark Russ Federman hasn't lost his enthusiasm for the store's products. His lunch order? Smoked salmon and sable on a bialy with cream cheese and tomato. \"To me, it's heaven,\" he says. \"If somebody asks me — and they have, actually — what's your dying meal, this is it.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Joel Rose, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/03/173264635/family-keeps-jewish-soulfood-alive-at-new-york-appetizing-store\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/1/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been more than 100 years since Joel Russ started peddling herring from a barrel on the streets of New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57757\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 217px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-night-217x290.jpg\" alt='\"The House the Herring Built\" has served New York City for more than a century. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters' width=\"217\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57757\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"The House the Herring Built\" has served New York City for more than a century. Photo: Courtesy of Jen Snow, Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, the restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Russ & Daughters\u003c/a> is a destination for fans of smoked salmon, whitefish and caviar, among other delicacies. Longtime owner Mark Russ Federman has written a memoir about the family business called \u003cem>Russ & Daughters: Reflections and Recipes from the House the Herring Built\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"An appetizing store has the mingling odors of salt, smoke, pickle and sweet,\" says Federman, who ran Russ & Daughters from 1978 until he retired three years ago. \"So, all of that coming together makes for a unique sensory experience.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A century ago, the Lower East Side was packed with \"appetizing\" shops, where merchants would compete to satisfy the noshing needs of the neighborhood's Jewish clientele: pickled herring, smoked whitefish, sable and salmon, bagels and bialys, along with dried fruit, chocolate and candy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling fish is in Federman's blood. His grandfather Joel Russ immigrated to New York from what's now southeastern Poland and opened the store in 1914. Russ didn't have any sons — but he did have three daughters. And Federman says he put them to work behind the counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Down here, there were 20, 30 appetizing stores. And a lot of them had a sign over the door that said, 'Saperstein and Son,' 'Cohen and Son,' whatever, and sons. Sons. Nobody had, 'and daughters,' \" Federman says. \"So, he put a sign that said Russ & Daughters. That made him unique.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Federman says Hattie, Ida and Anne helped the business in other ways, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57755\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-1939.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-daughters-1939-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman's mother, Anne, serves customers at Russ & Daughters in 1939. Photo: Courtesy of Russ & Daughters\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57755\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman's mother, Anne, serves customers at Russ & Daughters in 1939. Photo: Courtesy of Russ & Daughters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"These pretty young girls would be fishing herrings out of barrels, and slicing lox, and charming and disarming the toughest of New York's customers,\" he says. \"And these were tough customers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike his aunts and mother, Mark Russ Federman did have a choice about working in the family business. Federman went to law school. He got a job at an uptown law firm — and hated it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1978, Federman came back to run the family business. And he was shocked at how hard the job was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're dealing with a finicky product,\" Federman says. \"We're talking about fish, most of it wild. Every fish is different. Every customer is different. Every employee is different. And the idea is to be able to line up fish and customer and counterman perfectly hundreds of times a day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the men and women behind the counter aren't all Russes. Some of them aren't even — heaven forbid — Jewish. Herman Vargas has been working here for 32 years, ever since he arrived in New York from the Dominican Republic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"There is something called \u003cem>bashert\u003c/em> in Yiddish, which is like destiny. Now I can say [it is] so,\" Vargas says of his chosen profession. \"But when I first came in no, no way.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Russ & Daughters survived long enough to be rediscovered by foodies and food writers. Now, Mark Federman has handed the business over to a fourth generation of Russes — his nephew, Josh Russ Tupper, and his daughter, Niki Russ Federman. They've tried to bring the store into the 21st century gently, with innovations like ordering over the Internet. Though not all of their customers are interested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"People will come back at me almost as if I've offended them,\" says Niki Federman. \"One person even said, 'Don't take my joy away from me. I have to come. I have to talk to Jose. He's my favorite counter guy. I've been seeing him for 30 years.'\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>All the Russes acknowledge that the success of the store is about more than the quality of its fish. That helps, says Federman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57758\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-and-daughters-owners.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/russ-and-daughters-owners-290x218.jpg\" alt=\"Mark Russ Federman (center) stands with the next generation of Russ and Daughters owners: his daughter Nikki and his nephew Josh Russ Tupper. Photo: Joel Rose/NPR \" width=\"290\" height=\"218\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-57758\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mark Russ Federman (center) stands with the next generation of Russ and Daughters owners: his daughter Nikki and his nephew Josh Russ Tupper.\u003cbr>Photo: Joel Rose/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But even after writing a book about the store, Federman says he's not quite sure why Russ and Daughters is still in business when so many appetizing stores aren't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"This store has a soul — a \u003cem>neshama\u003c/em>, as we say in Hebrew,\" says Federman. \"Some of the Russes get that. And that's what keeps us doing this kind of thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Even in retirement, Mark Russ Federman hasn't lost his enthusiasm for the store's products. His lunch order? Smoked salmon and sable on a bialy with cream cheese and tomato. \"To me, it's heaven,\" he says. \"If somebody asks me — and they have, actually — what's your dying meal, this is it.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "On the Plate with Wise Sons Jewish Deli",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-39285\" title=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons\u003c/a> -- the first Jewish deli in the Mission and, arguably, the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. The powerful but petite eatery’s proprietors, Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, have become \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Inside Scoop\" href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/02/17/wise-sons-jewish-delicatessen-is-now-open-in-the-mission/\">local media darlings\u003c/a>, featured everywhere from a \u003ca title=\"Beckerman on Eater SF\" href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/02/14/hottest_chef_round_2.php\">fiery hot chef competition\u003c/a>, to \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Grub Street\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2012/02/step_inside_wise_sons_jewish_d.html\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons in J Weekly\" href=\"http://www.jweekly.com/article/full/64326/wise-sons-owners-new-deli-will-open-by-months-end/\">newspapers\u003c/a>, and upcoming in \u003ca title=\"Sunset Magazine\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sunset.com%2F&ei=UQtHT6CqGuiYiAKJyondDQ&usg=AFQjCNFJsO0Hsulmw8L7Vlb6TUO1v9LZsA\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine and perhaps on local TV show \u003ca title=\"Dine and Dish\" href=\"http://www.kron.com/Reporters/DineandDish.aspx\">Dine and Dish\u003c/a>. I myself, giddy after finding the long-craved \u003ca title=\"2nd Avenue Deli\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2ndavedeli.com%2F&ei=WBdHT-G5JOHViAKS8vXaDQ&usg=AFQjCNH2Bsbv7nUgpuxwKPW-dozvcavc-g\">2nd Avenue Deli\u003c/a>-quality eats of my people, gushed about them in this \u003ca title=\"SFoodie on Wise Sons\" href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/12/karen_solomons_2011_find_prope.php\">public love letter\u003c/a> earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging (mmmm…could we get some tongue on the menu, please?) what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food. “We’re not a factory,” explains Beckerman. “We’re all about education -- keeping this food and this culture alive and sharing it. The level of attention and detail we put into our work,” -- brining and smoking the meat, baking the rye, preserving the pickles and jams, and making every single thing in-house from scratch or buying from top-quality local purveyors who do so -- “this is truly slow food. That’s what people deserve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39292\" title=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bloom and Beckerman grew dissatisfied with their careers in construction management (Bloom) and non-profit medical development (Beckerman), and came together because of their love for food. Through kitchen experimentation and recipe development, the menu is a continuing work in progress. Its influences come from a number of sources -- the glossy cookbooks of \u003ca title=\"Joan Nathan\" href=\"http://joannathan.com/\">Joan Nathan\u003c/a> and \u003ca title=\"Secrets of a Jewish Baker\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads/dp/1580088449/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330059437&sr=1-1\">Secrets of a Jewish Baker\u003c/a>, as well as spiral-bound DIY cookbooks from synagogues, Jewish community centers, temple sisterhoods and the like, “each featuring six different recipes for Matzo Ball Soup, all slightly different, as well as Mrs. Schmendrick’s Husband’s Favorite Soup,” says Beckerman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wise Sons \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons menu\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/wisesons_menu_feb17.jpg\">menu\u003c/a> also owes a huge debt to Oliver, a family friend who was monumental in developing the house recipe for bialys (“Ollie’s Bialys,” quips Beckerman), as well as hand-written recipes on 3x5 index cards from Beckerman’s grandmother’s recipe file. “I went through that box with her before she passed away and asked her if I could take the ones I wanted. That was a nice passing on of recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\" classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowfullscreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed width=\"560\" height=\"420\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\" allowfullscreen=\"true\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing served, however, is verbatim of any written formula, family-derived or otherwise. The challah is on the sweet side, and even though Wise Sons is not a kosher eatery, they opt out of butter in the recipe to keep it \u003ca title=\"Definition of Parve\" href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=3809\">parve\u003c/a>. And because it’s 2012, it’s topped with flaked sea salt just to make it awesome. And while Beckerman, who oversees most of the baking while Bloom takes on the meat and the savories, wanted to make his grandmother’s babke with nuts, raisins, and meringue, they opted for chocolate instead. “We ended up going in a different direction,” says Beckerman. “As soon as you put in nuts and raisins, it narrows down the audience. People have allergies.” Right. This is, after all, San Francisco and not the 1947 Lower East Side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket for the pastrami and corned beef is cut to Wise Sons’ specifications by \u003ca title=\"Creekstone Farms\" href=\"http://www.creekstonefarms.com/\">Creekstone Farms\u003c/a> in Kansas. But why not use what’s local and grass fed? Beckerman unapologetically explains, “The truth is that we found out that grass fed animals are much smaller and too lean, and the pastrami doesn’t come out as nice. There aren’t enough cows in the Bay Area to do what we do,” -- which, on an average Tuesday at their Ferry Building kiosk, can easily mean 150-200 lbs. of beef and still a lengthy line-up of customers craving Reubens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\" alt=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beckerman and Bloom’s brand loyalty for ingredients is unbending. The chicken soup starts with \u003ca href=\"http://www.maryschickens.com/\">Mary’s\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.fultonvalley.com/\">Fulton Valley\u003c/a>. The matzo and matzo meal is \u003ca href=\"http://www.streitsmatzos.com/\">Streits\u003c/a>. The flour is \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto’s\u003c/a>. And, true story: I wanted to buy a whole babke to send to my mother for Chanukah last December, but I was out of luck because the particular \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> chocolate used in the recipe -- E. Guittard 72 percent cacao -- wasn’t available. And rather than settle for a chocolate substitute, Beckerman told me, there just wasn’t going to be any. This is the same reason you’ll only find bagels on Saturdays -- when \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's\u003c/a> can deliver them. “I’d rather serve no bagels than crappy bagels,” he says. “Do you want twice as much of something half as good?” Wise words, indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca title=\"Wise Sons Deli\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3150 24th St\u003cbr>\n(415)787-DELI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday. Serving Tuesdays at the Ferry Building 10am to 2pm.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Twitter\" href=\"http://twitter.com/WiseSonsDeli\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Facebook\" href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wise-Sons-Jewish-Delicatessen/165956736780396\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of Wise Sons -- the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-39285\" title=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wise-sons-store-front-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons Jewish Deli\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\">\u003c/a>Much ado has been made of the new permanent home of \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons\u003c/a> -- the first Jewish deli in the Mission and, arguably, the only Jewish deli in San Francisco worth eating. The powerful but petite eatery’s proprietors, Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman, have become \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Inside Scoop\" href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/2012/02/17/wise-sons-jewish-delicatessen-is-now-open-in-the-mission/\">local media darlings\u003c/a>, featured everywhere from a \u003ca title=\"Beckerman on Eater SF\" href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2012/02/14/hottest_chef_round_2.php\">fiery hot chef competition\u003c/a>, to \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Grub Street\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2012/02/step_inside_wise_sons_jewish_d.html\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons in J Weekly\" href=\"http://www.jweekly.com/article/full/64326/wise-sons-owners-new-deli-will-open-by-months-end/\">newspapers\u003c/a>, and upcoming in \u003ca title=\"Sunset Magazine\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sunset.com%2F&ei=UQtHT6CqGuiYiAKJyondDQ&usg=AFQjCNFJsO0Hsulmw8L7Vlb6TUO1v9LZsA\">Sunset\u003c/a> magazine and perhaps on local TV show \u003ca title=\"Dine and Dish\" href=\"http://www.kron.com/Reporters/DineandDish.aspx\">Dine and Dish\u003c/a>. I myself, giddy after finding the long-craved \u003ca title=\"2nd Avenue Deli\" href=\"http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2ndavedeli.com%2F&ei=WBdHT-G5JOHViAKS8vXaDQ&usg=AFQjCNH2Bsbv7nUgpuxwKPW-dozvcavc-g\">2nd Avenue Deli\u003c/a>-quality eats of my people, gushed about them in this \u003ca title=\"SFoodie on Wise Sons\" href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/12/karen_solomons_2011_find_prope.php\">public love letter\u003c/a> earlier this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the excitement of the experience has tongues wagging (mmmm…could we get some tongue on the menu, please?) what has not been fully explored is the uncompromising heritage and quality of the food. “We’re not a factory,” explains Beckerman. “We’re all about education -- keeping this food and this culture alive and sharing it. The level of attention and detail we put into our work,” -- brining and smoking the meat, baking the rye, preserving the pickles and jams, and making every single thing in-house from scratch or buying from top-quality local purveyors who do so -- “this is truly slow food. That’s what people deserve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39292\" title=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/interior-wise-sons560.jpg\" alt=\"Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wise Sons interior. Photo by Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bloom and Beckerman grew dissatisfied with their careers in construction management (Bloom) and non-profit medical development (Beckerman), and came together because of their love for food. Through kitchen experimentation and recipe development, the menu is a continuing work in progress. Its influences come from a number of sources -- the glossy cookbooks of \u003ca title=\"Joan Nathan\" href=\"http://joannathan.com/\">Joan Nathan\u003c/a> and \u003ca title=\"Secrets of a Jewish Baker\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Jewish-Baker-Recipes-Breads/dp/1580088449/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330059437&sr=1-1\">Secrets of a Jewish Baker\u003c/a>, as well as spiral-bound DIY cookbooks from synagogues, Jewish community centers, temple sisterhoods and the like, “each featuring six different recipes for Matzo Ball Soup, all slightly different, as well as Mrs. Schmendrick’s Husband’s Favorite Soup,” says Beckerman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wise Sons \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons menu\" href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/wisesons_menu_feb17.jpg\">menu\u003c/a> also owes a huge debt to Oliver, a family friend who was monumental in developing the house recipe for bialys (“Ollie’s Bialys,” quips Beckerman), as well as hand-written recipes on 3x5 index cards from Beckerman’s grandmother’s recipe file. “I went through that box with her before she passed away and asked her if I could take the ones I wanted. That was a nice passing on of recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\" classid=\"d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000\" codebase=\"http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"src\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowfullscreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed width=\"560\" height=\"420\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157629076046350%2F&set_id=72157629076046350&jump_to=\" allowfullscreen=\"true\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing served, however, is verbatim of any written formula, family-derived or otherwise. The challah is on the sweet side, and even though Wise Sons is not a kosher eatery, they opt out of butter in the recipe to keep it \u003ca title=\"Definition of Parve\" href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/tools/fooddictionary/entry/?id=3809\">parve\u003c/a>. And because it’s 2012, it’s topped with flaked sea salt just to make it awesome. And while Beckerman, who oversees most of the baking while Bloom takes on the meat and the savories, wanted to make his grandmother’s babke with nuts, raisins, and meringue, they opted for chocolate instead. “We ended up going in a different direction,” says Beckerman. “As soon as you put in nuts and raisins, it narrows down the audience. People have allergies.” Right. This is, after all, San Francisco and not the 1947 Lower East Side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brisket for the pastrami and corned beef is cut to Wise Sons’ specifications by \u003ca title=\"Creekstone Farms\" href=\"http://www.creekstonefarms.com/\">Creekstone Farms\u003c/a> in Kansas. But why not use what’s local and grass fed? Beckerman unapologetically explains, “The truth is that we found out that grass fed animals are much smaller and too lean, and the pastrami doesn’t come out as nice. There aren’t enough cows in the Bay Area to do what we do,” -- which, on an average Tuesday at their Ferry Building kiosk, can easily mean 150-200 lbs. of beef and still a lengthy line-up of customers craving Reubens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/door-quote-560.jpg\" alt=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\"In America You Can Eat Challah Everyday. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39295\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beckerman and Bloom’s brand loyalty for ingredients is unbending. The chicken soup starts with \u003ca href=\"http://www.maryschickens.com/\">Mary’s\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.fultonvalley.com/\">Fulton Valley\u003c/a>. The matzo and matzo meal is \u003ca href=\"http://www.streitsmatzos.com/\">Streits\u003c/a>. The flour is \u003ca href=\"http://giustos.com/\">Giusto’s\u003c/a>. And, true story: I wanted to buy a whole babke to send to my mother for Chanukah last December, but I was out of luck because the particular \u003ca href=\"http://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> chocolate used in the recipe -- E. Guittard 72 percent cacao -- wasn’t available. And rather than settle for a chocolate substitute, Beckerman told me, there just wasn’t going to be any. This is the same reason you’ll only find bagels on Saturdays -- when \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/beautysbagelshop\">Beauty's\u003c/a> can deliver them. “I’d rather serve no bagels than crappy bagels,” he says. “Do you want twice as much of something half as good?” Wise words, indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca title=\"Wise Sons Deli\" href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3150 24th St\u003cbr>\n(415)787-DELI\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Wednesday through Sunday, 9am to 3pm. Closed Monday. Serving Tuesdays at the Ferry Building 10am to 2pm.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Twitter\" href=\"http://twitter.com/WiseSonsDeli\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca title=\"Wise Sons on Facebook\" href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wise-Sons-Jewish-Delicatessen/165956736780396\">Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"perspectives": {
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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