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Photo: Mark Andersen/Rubberball/Corbi\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85156\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Investigators at the U.S. Department of Agriculture have discovered cases of organic fraud abroad as well as in the U.S. In 2013, 19 farmers or food companies were fined a total of $87 million for misusing the organic label. Photo: Mark Andersen/Rubberball/Corbi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/23/334073167/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/07/20140723_atc_can_you_trust_that_organic_label.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/23/334073167/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/23/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe you've wondered, while looking at the price tag on some organic produce, whether that label is telling the truth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://peterlaufer.com/\">Peter Laufer\u003c/a>, a writer and professor of journalism at the University of Oregon, doesn't just wonder. He's an outright skeptic, especially because the organic label seems to him like a license to raise prices. And also because those products are arriving through supply chains that stretch to far corners of the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. imports organic soybeans from China, spices from India, and dried fruits from Turkey. \"It just screams to my perhaps prejudiced, cynical, journalist's mind: Is there anything wrong with this?\" Laufer says. \"This needs some checking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two products recently caught Laufer's attention when they showed up in his kitchen: a can of organic black beans from Bolivia and a bag of organic walnuts, which turned out to be rancid, labeled \"Product of Kazakhstan.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laufer's mental fraud alarm went off. \"I've done a lot of work in the former Soviet bloc, and when you look at the 'corrupt-o-meter,' it doesn't get much worse than Kazakhstan,\" he says. Bolivia, he says, isn't much better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Laufer tried to find out exactly where those products came from. As he recounts in his new book,\u003cem> Organic: A Journalist's Quest to Discover the Truth Behind Food Labeling\u003c/em>, he interrogated store managers, distributors and the company that certified the beans as organic. He had a hard time getting answers, which made him even more suspicious. \"It seems to me if everything is clean as a whistle, then you'd be proud to say where the food came from.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laufer says that's the first reason to distrust organic food. The second is a conflict of interest that's built into the system, at least in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The companies that inspect organic farmers and processors, and certify their products as organic \"are paid by those that they certify,\" he says. \"And there is competition among the 'certifiers.' So you can imagine, if the inspection is a little harsh, the company or the farm could say, 'Hey, there are other places I can do business with that wouldn't put me through this kind of rigor.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laufer is convinced that organic fraud is common — but his book doesn't actually uncover much evidence of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beans checked out. Laufer flew to Bolivia, had a nice conversation with the farmer who probably grew them, and came away convinced that those beans were organic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The walnuts from Kazakhstan, on the other hand, remain a mystery. After that first rancid batch, Laufer never spied any more Kazakh walnuts in the store. The U.S. Department of Agriculture investigated and found no evidence of organic walnut production in Kazakhstan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Trader Joe's customer service representative told Laufer that the company buys walnuts from Kazakhstan when it runs out of organic walnuts from California. But a spokesman for the company tells NPR that Trader Joe's never got organic walnuts from Kazakhstan. Uzbekistan, yes. But not Kazakhstan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their response to Laufer, organic industry executives say that the word \"organic\" is far more trustworthy than most labels you see on groceries. Unlike \"natural,\" for instance, it really means something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Organic farmers have rules to follow, and third-party certifiers inspect their operations to make sure they're following the rules. Those certifiers also test a certain percentage of the product each year for illicit use of pesticides. Although certifiers are paid by the companies that they certify, their work is audited by the USDA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have a covenant with our consumers that we have certification that can trace any product from the store shelf back to the field where it was grown,\" says George Kalogridis, an organic certification officer with \u003ca href=\"http://www.ecocert.com/en/organic-farming\">Ecocert ICO\u003c/a>, an organic certifier that's based in France and operates globally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Kalogridis, many people are suspicious of organic imports because they don't realize how widely the ideas of organic farming have spread — and that those ideas didn't originate in the U.S. in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kalogridis has firsthand experience with global organic production. About 30 years ago, he set up an organic produce business in Florida. When sales really took off, in the 1990s, he needed to find more suppliers. \"We were, quite literally, running out of product,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So he embarked on a search for more organic farmers, and found some in Mexico and Argentina. Organic missionaries, many of them from Europe — the birthplace of organic farming — had already been traveling the world, spreading the gospel of pesticide-free agriculture. Organic certifiers also were expanding internationally. Together, they provided the foundation for a global boom in international organic trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kalogridis ended up supplying a hungry American market with organic imports of all kinds. \"I went from handling half a dozen ingredients to almost 300 ingredients,\" he says. \"People would say, 'Thank you for finding this; can you go find that?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>USDA investigators have found cases of organic fraud, but they've discovered it \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcclatchydc.com/2012/08/09/161308/farmers-guilty-plea-may-signal.html\">here\u003c/a> in the U.S., as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateN&topNav=&leftNav=NationalOrganicProgram&page=NOPFraudulentCertificates&description=NOP%20Fraudulent%20Certificates\">abroad\u003c/a>. There's little evidence that fraud is widespread, but USDA, which oversees the organic program, is now putting more resources into preventing it. The budget for the USDA's organic program was \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5107310\">boosted\u003c/a> by 40 percent this year, and a big chunk of that increase will be devoted to \"compliance and enforcement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, the USDA has been getting about 200 complaints each year about organic products that somebody suspects really aren't organic. Last year, 19 farmers or food companies were fined a total of $87 million for misusing the organic label. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A new book claims the organic label can't be trusted, especially on food that's imported. Yet there is a global system for verifying the authenticity of organic food, and it mostly seems to work.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1406167578,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1043},"headData":{"title":"Can You Trust That Organic Label On Imported Food? | KQED","description":"A new book claims the organic label can't be trusted, especially on food that's imported. Yet there is a global system for verifying the authenticity of organic food, and it mostly seems to work.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Can You Trust That Organic Label On Imported Food?","datePublished":"2014-07-24T02:06:18.000Z","dateModified":"2014-07-24T02:06:18.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"85155 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=85155","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/23/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food/","disqusTitle":"Can You Trust That Organic Label On Imported Food?","nprByline":"Dan Charles","nprStoryId":"334073167","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=334073167&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/23/334073167/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food?ft=3&f=334073167","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 23 Jul 2014 19:27:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 23 Jul 2014 18:14:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 23 Jul 2014 19:27:39 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/07/20140723_atc_can_you_trust_that_organic_label.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=334073167","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1334494748-051e49.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=334073167","path":"/bayareabites/85155/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/07/20140723_atc_can_you_trust_that_organic_label.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85156\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/organic-labeling_slide-3388d413a848122755e3a9e66988872404f1aa56.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/organic-labeling_slide-3388d413a848122755e3a9e66988872404f1aa56.jpg\" alt=\"Investigators at the U.S. Department of Agriculture have discovered cases of organic fraud abroad as well as in the U.S. In 2013, 19 farmers or food companies were fined a total of $87 million for misusing the organic label. Photo: Mark Andersen/Rubberball/Corbi\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85156\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Investigators at the U.S. Department of Agriculture have discovered cases of organic fraud abroad as well as in the U.S. In 2013, 19 farmers or food companies were fined a total of $87 million for misusing the organic label. Photo: Mark Andersen/Rubberball/Corbi\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/23/334073167/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/07/20140723_atc_can_you_trust_that_organic_label.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/23/334073167/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/23/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe you've wondered, while looking at the price tag on some organic produce, whether that label is telling the truth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://peterlaufer.com/\">Peter Laufer\u003c/a>, a writer and professor of journalism at the University of Oregon, doesn't just wonder. He's an outright skeptic, especially because the organic label seems to him like a license to raise prices. And also because those products are arriving through supply chains that stretch to far corners of the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. imports organic soybeans from China, spices from India, and dried fruits from Turkey. \"It just screams to my perhaps prejudiced, cynical, journalist's mind: Is there anything wrong with this?\" Laufer says. \"This needs some checking.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two products recently caught Laufer's attention when they showed up in his kitchen: a can of organic black beans from Bolivia and a bag of organic walnuts, which turned out to be rancid, labeled \"Product of Kazakhstan.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laufer's mental fraud alarm went off. \"I've done a lot of work in the former Soviet bloc, and when you look at the 'corrupt-o-meter,' it doesn't get much worse than Kazakhstan,\" he says. Bolivia, he says, isn't much better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Laufer tried to find out exactly where those products came from. As he recounts in his new book,\u003cem> Organic: A Journalist's Quest to Discover the Truth Behind Food Labeling\u003c/em>, he interrogated store managers, distributors and the company that certified the beans as organic. He had a hard time getting answers, which made him even more suspicious. \"It seems to me if everything is clean as a whistle, then you'd be proud to say where the food came from.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laufer says that's the first reason to distrust organic food. The second is a conflict of interest that's built into the system, at least in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The companies that inspect organic farmers and processors, and certify their products as organic \"are paid by those that they certify,\" he says. \"And there is competition among the 'certifiers.' So you can imagine, if the inspection is a little harsh, the company or the farm could say, 'Hey, there are other places I can do business with that wouldn't put me through this kind of rigor.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laufer is convinced that organic fraud is common — but his book doesn't actually uncover much evidence of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beans checked out. Laufer flew to Bolivia, had a nice conversation with the farmer who probably grew them, and came away convinced that those beans were organic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The walnuts from Kazakhstan, on the other hand, remain a mystery. After that first rancid batch, Laufer never spied any more Kazakh walnuts in the store. The U.S. Department of Agriculture investigated and found no evidence of organic walnut production in Kazakhstan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Trader Joe's customer service representative told Laufer that the company buys walnuts from Kazakhstan when it runs out of organic walnuts from California. But a spokesman for the company tells NPR that Trader Joe's never got organic walnuts from Kazakhstan. Uzbekistan, yes. But not Kazakhstan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their response to Laufer, organic industry executives say that the word \"organic\" is far more trustworthy than most labels you see on groceries. Unlike \"natural,\" for instance, it really means something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Organic farmers have rules to follow, and third-party certifiers inspect their operations to make sure they're following the rules. Those certifiers also test a certain percentage of the product each year for illicit use of pesticides. Although certifiers are paid by the companies that they certify, their work is audited by the USDA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have a covenant with our consumers that we have certification that can trace any product from the store shelf back to the field where it was grown,\" says George Kalogridis, an organic certification officer with \u003ca href=\"http://www.ecocert.com/en/organic-farming\">Ecocert ICO\u003c/a>, an organic certifier that's based in France and operates globally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Kalogridis, many people are suspicious of organic imports because they don't realize how widely the ideas of organic farming have spread — and that those ideas didn't originate in the U.S. in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kalogridis has firsthand experience with global organic production. About 30 years ago, he set up an organic produce business in Florida. When sales really took off, in the 1990s, he needed to find more suppliers. \"We were, quite literally, running out of product,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So he embarked on a search for more organic farmers, and found some in Mexico and Argentina. Organic missionaries, many of them from Europe — the birthplace of organic farming — had already been traveling the world, spreading the gospel of pesticide-free agriculture. Organic certifiers also were expanding internationally. Together, they provided the foundation for a global boom in international organic trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kalogridis ended up supplying a hungry American market with organic imports of all kinds. \"I went from handling half a dozen ingredients to almost 300 ingredients,\" he says. \"People would say, 'Thank you for finding this; can you go find that?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>USDA investigators have found cases of organic fraud, but they've discovered it \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcclatchydc.com/2012/08/09/161308/farmers-guilty-plea-may-signal.html\">here\u003c/a> in the U.S., as well as \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateN&topNav=&leftNav=NationalOrganicProgram&page=NOPFraudulentCertificates&description=NOP%20Fraudulent%20Certificates\">abroad\u003c/a>. There's little evidence that fraud is widespread, but USDA, which oversees the organic program, is now putting more resources into preventing it. The budget for the USDA's organic program was \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5107310\">boosted\u003c/a> by 40 percent this year, and a big chunk of that increase will be devoted to \"compliance and enforcement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, the USDA has been getting about 200 complaints each year about organic products that somebody suspects really aren't organic. Last year, 19 farmers or food companies were fined a total of $87 million for misusing the organic label. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/85155/can-you-trust-that-organic-label-on-imported-food","authors":["byline_bayareabites_85155"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_11270","bayareabites_12697","bayareabites_11721","bayareabites_11696","bayareabites_10774","bayareabites_65","bayareabites_13612","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_85156","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_84398":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_84398","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"84398","score":null,"sort":[1404266869000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply","title":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply","publishDate":1404266869,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84399\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3258px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\" alt='Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP' width=\"3258\" height=\"1833\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84399\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/01/327248504/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (7/1/14) [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the most popular seafood in the U.S.? Shrimp. The average American eats more shrimp per capita than tuna and salmon combined. Most of that shrimp comes from Asia, and most of the salmon we eat is also imported. In fact, 91 percent of the seafood Americans eat comes from abroad, but one-third of the seafood Americans \u003cem>catch\u003c/em> gets sold to other countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp and salmon are two case studies in the unraveling of America's seafood economy, according to Paul Greenberg, author of the new book \u003cem>American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood.\u003c/em> Greenberg tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross about what's driving the changes in America's seafood economy and why you should buy wild salmon frozen when its out of season.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/327248318/american-catch-the-fight-for-our-local-seafood\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/fish-american-catch.jpg\" alt=\"American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood by Paul Greenberg\" width=\"300\" height=\"455\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-84407\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>On what Greenberg calls \"The Great Fish Swap\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I think we're doing is we're low-grading our seafood supply. In effect what we're doing is we're sending the really great, wild stuff that we harvest here on our shores abroad, and in exchange, we're importing farm stuff that, frankly, is of an increasingly dubious nature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We export millions of tons of wild, mostly Alaska salmon abroad and import mostly farmed salmon from abroad. So salmon for salmon, we're trading wild for farmed. Another great example of this fish swap is the swapping of Alaska pollack for tilapia and pangasius [catfish]. \u003ca href=\"http://www.laweekly.com/squidink/2014/02/26/is-mcdonalds-fish-sandwich-what-fast-food-is-supposed-to-be\">Alaska pollack\u003c/a> is the thing in [McDonald's] Filet-O-Fish sandwich; it's the thing in that fake crab that you find in your California roll. We use a lot of pollack ourselves, but we send 600 million pounds of it abroad every year. And in the other direction, we get a similarly white flaky fish — tilapia or pangasius — coming to us mostly from China and Vietnam. They fill a similar fish niche, but they're very different.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why the U.S. exports the best-quality fish \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only eat about 15 pounds of seafood per year per capita. That's half of the global average, so there's that. The other thing is that other countries really are hip to seafood. The Chinese love seafood; the Japanese, the Koreans — they love seafood. They're willing to pay top dollar for it. We just aren't willing to do so. We want our food cheap and easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of this fast-food commodification of seafood protein — because that's kind of what it is at this point — adds to that general preference for cheap stuff. Kind of in tandem and in league with that is the American tendency to avoid taste. ... Foodies [talk] about flavor and texture and the food movement and that kind of thing, and that's true of about 5 percent of Americans, but 95 percent of Americans really are not so into flavor. ... If we don't like the flavorsome fish — like bluefish, mackerel, things like oysters, things that really taste of the sea — if we don't like that, then we're going to go for these generic, homogenized, industrialized products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On sending American salmon to China and back for cheap labor \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84400\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-84400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A certain amount of Alaska salmon gets caught by Americans in Alaska, sent to China, defrosted, filleted, boned, refrozen and sent back to us. How's that for food miles? We don't want to pay the labor involved in boning fish and more and more of that fish that used to go make that round trip is actually staying in China because the Chinese are realizing how good it is, much to our detriment. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The labor is so much cheaper that it makes the shipping cost-effective. When you ship things via freighter, frozen, the cost per mile is relatively low compared to, say, air freighting or train travel or truck freighting.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you should buy wild salmon frozen, not fresh, if it's out of season \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's going to be frozen anyway. I sometimes will go to a supermarket in January and I'll see fresh, wild Alaska salmon sitting out there on ice and I just shake my head at it because I know that if it's January, there's a very little chance that that fish is fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly all of the salmon, when it comes into the processing plants in Alaska, gets immediately frozen. And that's great because if you freeze a fish right out of the water it will be of the highest quality that you can get out of a frozen product. So when you go to the supermarket in January, don't go to the fresh seafood counter for your salmon; go to the frozen bins and get those nice vacuum-packed Alaska salmon things. They're just going to be of higher quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On slave labor and the Thai shrimp industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The largest shrimp producer for us right now is Thailand. ... It turns out, a certain amount of the shrimp that come to us from Thailand seems to be coming to us in part as the result of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/21/world/asia/us-gives-thailand-and-malaysia-lowest-grade-on-human-trafficking.html\">slave labor\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp are fed wild fish ground up and turned into meal — trash fish, they're called, just random fish that are trolled up in the South China Sea. It turns out, a large amount of that fish is being caught by boats in which the labor onboard are slaves and that fish gets ground up and sold to Thai shrimp farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the decline of local fish markets \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We don't want fish markets in our view shed. We don't want to smell them. We don't want to look at them. So they really have been banished from the center of our cities and sequestered to a corner of our supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a process that aids all of the facelessness and commodification of seafood. ... Seafood has been taken out of the hands of the experts and put into the hands of the traders, so people really cannot identify the specificity of fish anymore. Because supermarkets rely on mass distribution systems, often frozen product, it means that the relationship between coastal producers of seafood is broken and so it's much easier for them to deal with the Syscos of the world, or these large purveyors that use these massive shrimp operations in Thailand or China, than it is for them to deal with the kind of knotty nature of local fishermen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"One-third of the seafood Americans catch is sold abroad, but most of the seafood we eat here is imported and often of lower quality. Why? Author Paul Greenberg says it has to do with American tastes.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1404266869,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1172},"headData":{"title":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply | KQED","description":"One-third of the seafood Americans catch is sold abroad, but most of the seafood we eat here is imported and often of lower quality. Why? Author Paul Greenberg says it has to do with American tastes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply","datePublished":"2014-07-02T02:07:49.000Z","dateModified":"2014-07-02T02:07:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"84398 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=84398","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/01/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply/","disqusTitle":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply","nprStoryId":"327248504","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=327248504&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/01/327248504/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply?ft=3&f=327248504","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 01 Jul 2014 15:46:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 01 Jul 2014 13:35:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 01 Jul 2014 15:44:19 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=327248504","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1327366423-863b6e.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=327248504","path":"/bayareabites/84398/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84399\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3258px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\" alt='Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP' width=\"3258\" height=\"1833\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84399\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/01/327248504/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (7/1/14) \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the most popular seafood in the U.S.? Shrimp. The average American eats more shrimp per capita than tuna and salmon combined. Most of that shrimp comes from Asia, and most of the salmon we eat is also imported. In fact, 91 percent of the seafood Americans eat comes from abroad, but one-third of the seafood Americans \u003cem>catch\u003c/em> gets sold to other countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp and salmon are two case studies in the unraveling of America's seafood economy, according to Paul Greenberg, author of the new book \u003cem>American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood.\u003c/em> Greenberg tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross about what's driving the changes in America's seafood economy and why you should buy wild salmon frozen when its out of season.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/327248318/american-catch-the-fight-for-our-local-seafood\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/fish-american-catch.jpg\" alt=\"American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood by Paul Greenberg\" width=\"300\" height=\"455\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-84407\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>On what Greenberg calls \"The Great Fish Swap\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I think we're doing is we're low-grading our seafood supply. In effect what we're doing is we're sending the really great, wild stuff that we harvest here on our shores abroad, and in exchange, we're importing farm stuff that, frankly, is of an increasingly dubious nature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We export millions of tons of wild, mostly Alaska salmon abroad and import mostly farmed salmon from abroad. So salmon for salmon, we're trading wild for farmed. Another great example of this fish swap is the swapping of Alaska pollack for tilapia and pangasius [catfish]. \u003ca href=\"http://www.laweekly.com/squidink/2014/02/26/is-mcdonalds-fish-sandwich-what-fast-food-is-supposed-to-be\">Alaska pollack\u003c/a> is the thing in [McDonald's] Filet-O-Fish sandwich; it's the thing in that fake crab that you find in your California roll. We use a lot of pollack ourselves, but we send 600 million pounds of it abroad every year. And in the other direction, we get a similarly white flaky fish — tilapia or pangasius — coming to us mostly from China and Vietnam. They fill a similar fish niche, but they're very different.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why the U.S. exports the best-quality fish \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only eat about 15 pounds of seafood per year per capita. That's half of the global average, so there's that. The other thing is that other countries really are hip to seafood. The Chinese love seafood; the Japanese, the Koreans — they love seafood. They're willing to pay top dollar for it. We just aren't willing to do so. We want our food cheap and easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of this fast-food commodification of seafood protein — because that's kind of what it is at this point — adds to that general preference for cheap stuff. Kind of in tandem and in league with that is the American tendency to avoid taste. ... Foodies [talk] about flavor and texture and the food movement and that kind of thing, and that's true of about 5 percent of Americans, but 95 percent of Americans really are not so into flavor. ... If we don't like the flavorsome fish — like bluefish, mackerel, things like oysters, things that really taste of the sea — if we don't like that, then we're going to go for these generic, homogenized, industrialized products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On sending American salmon to China and back for cheap labor \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84400\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-84400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A certain amount of Alaska salmon gets caught by Americans in Alaska, sent to China, defrosted, filleted, boned, refrozen and sent back to us. How's that for food miles? We don't want to pay the labor involved in boning fish and more and more of that fish that used to go make that round trip is actually staying in China because the Chinese are realizing how good it is, much to our detriment. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The labor is so much cheaper that it makes the shipping cost-effective. When you ship things via freighter, frozen, the cost per mile is relatively low compared to, say, air freighting or train travel or truck freighting.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you should buy wild salmon frozen, not fresh, if it's out of season \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's going to be frozen anyway. I sometimes will go to a supermarket in January and I'll see fresh, wild Alaska salmon sitting out there on ice and I just shake my head at it because I know that if it's January, there's a very little chance that that fish is fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly all of the salmon, when it comes into the processing plants in Alaska, gets immediately frozen. And that's great because if you freeze a fish right out of the water it will be of the highest quality that you can get out of a frozen product. So when you go to the supermarket in January, don't go to the fresh seafood counter for your salmon; go to the frozen bins and get those nice vacuum-packed Alaska salmon things. They're just going to be of higher quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On slave labor and the Thai shrimp industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The largest shrimp producer for us right now is Thailand. ... It turns out, a certain amount of the shrimp that come to us from Thailand seems to be coming to us in part as the result of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/21/world/asia/us-gives-thailand-and-malaysia-lowest-grade-on-human-trafficking.html\">slave labor\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp are fed wild fish ground up and turned into meal — trash fish, they're called, just random fish that are trolled up in the South China Sea. It turns out, a large amount of that fish is being caught by boats in which the labor onboard are slaves and that fish gets ground up and sold to Thai shrimp farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the decline of local fish markets \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We don't want fish markets in our view shed. We don't want to smell them. We don't want to look at them. So they really have been banished from the center of our cities and sequestered to a corner of our supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a process that aids all of the facelessness and commodification of seafood. ... Seafood has been taken out of the hands of the experts and put into the hands of the traders, so people really cannot identify the specificity of fish anymore. Because supermarkets rely on mass distribution systems, often frozen product, it means that the relationship between coastal producers of seafood is broken and so it's much easier for them to deal with the Syscos of the world, or these large purveyors that use these massive shrimp operations in Thailand or China, than it is for them to deal with the kind of knotty nature of local fishermen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/84398/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_376","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_11721","bayareabites_9498","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_864"],"featImg":"bayareabites_84399","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_63233":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_63233","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"63233","score":null,"sort":[1370901384000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-senate-farm-bill-catfish-imports","title":"The Farm Bill: A Senate Catfight Over Catfish","publishDate":1370901384,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63238\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/catfish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/catfish.jpg\" alt=\"These funny mustachioed fish are at the center of a farm bill fight in the House and Senate. Photo: Sasha Radosavljevic/iStockphoto.com\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63238\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">These funny mustachioed fish are at the center of a farm bill fight in the House and Senate.\u003cbr>Photo: Sasha Radosavljevic/iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/10/190328271/a-senate-catfight-over-catfish\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farm bill is expected to pass in the Senate on Monday night. And to the dismay of some, it likely won't include an amendment that would have eliminated a controversial program to keep a closer eye on a food product you probably weren't even worried about: catfish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.politico.com/story/2013/06/the-fishy-deal-on-catfish-92415.html\">op-ed\u003c/a> published Friday in \u003cem>Politico\u003c/em>, Sen. John McCain, R-Ariz., made the case for why $15 million a year to fund an \"absurd\" U.S. Department of Agriculture catfish office is a waste of taxpayer money. He and Jean Shaheen, D-N.H., sponsored the amendment in the Senate to kill the program. According to McCain and Shaheen, additional inspectors for domestic and imported catfish are nothing more than a gift to Southern catfish farmers seeking to burden their Asian competitors with extra compliance costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the backstory: U.S. catfish farmers have been struggling for a while. Total acreage of catfish ponds has dropped from a high of 196,760 acres of water in 2002 to 83,020 acres in January 2013. As Kristofer Husted \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/03/168203740/drought-puts-the-squeeze-on-already-struggling-fish-farms\">reported\u003c/a> for us in January, lack of water, high temperatures and feed prices are part of the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But more threatening, as far as the people still in business are concerned, are the foreign companies who now dominate 78 percent of the U.S. market for frozen catfish and similar species. How did these companies, mostly from Vietnam and China, manage that? They've found ways to raise catfish more cheaply and efficiently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, congressmen from Alabama, Arkansas and Mississippi, the top three catfish-producing states, have been looking for ways to bolster the domestic industry by limiting imports. And eventually, critics say, they figured more inspectors might do the trick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood inspection is the job of the Food and Drug Administration, and that's one reason both McCain and the Government Accountability Office are against having another agency duplicate the FDA's efforts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unless catfish have suddenly sprouted legs, USDA should stick to meat, poultry and egg inspections,\" McCain wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly $20 million has already been spent on the USDA's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fsis.usda.gov/about/OCIP/index.asp\">Office of Catfish Inspection\u003c/a> since its creation in 2008. Its supporters say the FDA is woefully underfunded and ill-equipped to monitor imported seafood — especially when it comes to testing for residues of drugs used by foreign producers — and needs USDA's help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those supporters include, unsurprisingly, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.catfishfarmersofamerica.com/\">Catfish Farmers of America\u003c/a>, a trade group that has argued that foreign catfish are riskier for consumers than what we grow here. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.safecatfish.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Catfish_Risk-_Report.pdf\">report\u003c/a> the group commissioned in 2010 found that salmonella, the pathogen most often associated with catfish, was found more frequently on imported catfish than on domestic catfish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA has indeed been regularly lambasted for not being able to keep up with testing of all imported seafood, not just catfish. The U.S. imports 90 percent of its seafood, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2011/05/16/136364253/somethings-fishy-with-fdas-oversight-of-imported-seafood\">according to\u003c/a> the Government Accountability Office, in 2009, the FDA performed drug residue testing on only 0.1 percent of the seafood coming into the country. (In its tests, the FDA is \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/downloads/AnimalVeterinary/GuidanceComplianceEnforcement/ComplianceEnforcement/UCM113433.pdf\">looking\u003c/a> for residue showing both use of unapproved drugs and misuse of approved drugs.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consumers Union is also in favor of USDA getting involved with catfish inspection. In \u003ca href=\"http://consumersunion.org/news/cu-comments-regarding-the-fsis-proposal-to-require-inspection-of-catfish/\">comments\u003c/a> prepared for Congress back in 2011, CU senior scientist Michael Hansen wrote, \"We believe that [USDA's Food Safety Inspection Service] is better suited than the FDA to ensure the safety of domestic and imported catfish, as FSIS does a more comprehensive review of food safety systems.\" In particular, Hansen wrote, his group was worried about foreign catfish producers' use of drugs unapproved for use in aquaculture in the U.S., which could affect consumers' health or contribute to antibiotic resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet the GAO \u003ca href=\"http://www.gao.gov/assets/600/590777.pdf\">has agreed\u003c/a> with Shaheen and McCain that the USDA catfish program won't add much to what the FDA is already doing. The GAO recommends that Congress instead help FDA do a better job inspecting seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Hill\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://thehill.com/blogs/on-the-money/agriculture/303989-southern-senators-outmaneuver-enemies-of-catfish-program-#ixzz2Vp5rUJY9\">reports\u003c/a> that the amendment to kill the catfish office may not get a vote at all. Why? Agriculture Committee leaders are unlikely to allow it or other \"non-controversial\" amendments to be brought up before a vote on final passage of the farm bill. Over in the House, the Agriculture Committee \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2013/05/usda-catfish-inspection-not-included-in-house-or-senate-farm-bills/#.UbYlGNjzN6O\">has voted\u003c/a> to repeal the inspection program, according to Food Safety News. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Inspecting seafood for safety hazards is currently the job of the Food and Drug Administration. But U.S. catfish producers want the Department of Agriculture involved, too. Critics say it's just a crackdown on foreign producers who are taking over the U.S. market.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1370901384,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":772},"headData":{"title":"The Farm Bill: A Senate Catfight Over Catfish | KQED","description":"Inspecting seafood for safety hazards is currently the job of the Food and Drug Administration. But U.S. catfish producers want the Department of Agriculture involved, too. Critics say it's just a crackdown on foreign producers who are taking over the U.S. market.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Farm Bill: A Senate Catfight Over Catfish","datePublished":"2013-06-10T21:56:24.000Z","dateModified":"2013-06-10T21:56:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"63233 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=63233","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/10/a-senate-farm-bill-catfish-imports/","disqusTitle":"The Farm Bill: A Senate Catfight Over Catfish","nprByline":"Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"190328271","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=190328271&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/10/190328271/a-senate-catfight-over-catfish?ft=3&f=190328271","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:22:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 10 Jun 2013 15:43:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 10 Jun 2013 16:22:16 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/63233/a-senate-farm-bill-catfish-imports","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63238\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/catfish.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/catfish.jpg\" alt=\"These funny mustachioed fish are at the center of a farm bill fight in the House and Senate. Photo: Sasha Radosavljevic/iStockphoto.com\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-63238\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">These funny mustachioed fish are at the center of a farm bill fight in the House and Senate.\u003cbr>Photo: Sasha Radosavljevic/iStockphoto.com\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/10/190328271/a-senate-catfight-over-catfish\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farm bill is expected to pass in the Senate on Monday night. And to the dismay of some, it likely won't include an amendment that would have eliminated a controversial program to keep a closer eye on a food product you probably weren't even worried about: catfish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.politico.com/story/2013/06/the-fishy-deal-on-catfish-92415.html\">op-ed\u003c/a> published Friday in \u003cem>Politico\u003c/em>, Sen. John McCain, R-Ariz., made the case for why $15 million a year to fund an \"absurd\" U.S. Department of Agriculture catfish office is a waste of taxpayer money. He and Jean Shaheen, D-N.H., sponsored the amendment in the Senate to kill the program. According to McCain and Shaheen, additional inspectors for domestic and imported catfish are nothing more than a gift to Southern catfish farmers seeking to burden their Asian competitors with extra compliance costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the backstory: U.S. catfish farmers have been struggling for a while. Total acreage of catfish ponds has dropped from a high of 196,760 acres of water in 2002 to 83,020 acres in January 2013. As Kristofer Husted \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/01/03/168203740/drought-puts-the-squeeze-on-already-struggling-fish-farms\">reported\u003c/a> for us in January, lack of water, high temperatures and feed prices are part of the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But more threatening, as far as the people still in business are concerned, are the foreign companies who now dominate 78 percent of the U.S. market for frozen catfish and similar species. How did these companies, mostly from Vietnam and China, manage that? They've found ways to raise catfish more cheaply and efficiently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, congressmen from Alabama, Arkansas and Mississippi, the top three catfish-producing states, have been looking for ways to bolster the domestic industry by limiting imports. And eventually, critics say, they figured more inspectors might do the trick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood inspection is the job of the Food and Drug Administration, and that's one reason both McCain and the Government Accountability Office are against having another agency duplicate the FDA's efforts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unless catfish have suddenly sprouted legs, USDA should stick to meat, poultry and egg inspections,\" McCain wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly $20 million has already been spent on the USDA's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fsis.usda.gov/about/OCIP/index.asp\">Office of Catfish Inspection\u003c/a> since its creation in 2008. Its supporters say the FDA is woefully underfunded and ill-equipped to monitor imported seafood — especially when it comes to testing for residues of drugs used by foreign producers — and needs USDA's help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those supporters include, unsurprisingly, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.catfishfarmersofamerica.com/\">Catfish Farmers of America\u003c/a>, a trade group that has argued that foreign catfish are riskier for consumers than what we grow here. A \u003ca href=\"http://www.safecatfish.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Catfish_Risk-_Report.pdf\">report\u003c/a> the group commissioned in 2010 found that salmonella, the pathogen most often associated with catfish, was found more frequently on imported catfish than on domestic catfish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA has indeed been regularly lambasted for not being able to keep up with testing of all imported seafood, not just catfish. The U.S. imports 90 percent of its seafood, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/health/2011/05/16/136364253/somethings-fishy-with-fdas-oversight-of-imported-seafood\">according to\u003c/a> the Government Accountability Office, in 2009, the FDA performed drug residue testing on only 0.1 percent of the seafood coming into the country. (In its tests, the FDA is \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/downloads/AnimalVeterinary/GuidanceComplianceEnforcement/ComplianceEnforcement/UCM113433.pdf\">looking\u003c/a> for residue showing both use of unapproved drugs and misuse of approved drugs.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Consumers Union is also in favor of USDA getting involved with catfish inspection. In \u003ca href=\"http://consumersunion.org/news/cu-comments-regarding-the-fsis-proposal-to-require-inspection-of-catfish/\">comments\u003c/a> prepared for Congress back in 2011, CU senior scientist Michael Hansen wrote, \"We believe that [USDA's Food Safety Inspection Service] is better suited than the FDA to ensure the safety of domestic and imported catfish, as FSIS does a more comprehensive review of food safety systems.\" In particular, Hansen wrote, his group was worried about foreign catfish producers' use of drugs unapproved for use in aquaculture in the U.S., which could affect consumers' health or contribute to antibiotic resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet the GAO \u003ca href=\"http://www.gao.gov/assets/600/590777.pdf\">has agreed\u003c/a> with Shaheen and McCain that the USDA catfish program won't add much to what the FDA is already doing. The GAO recommends that Congress instead help FDA do a better job inspecting seafood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \u003cem>The Hill\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://thehill.com/blogs/on-the-money/agriculture/303989-southern-senators-outmaneuver-enemies-of-catfish-program-#ixzz2Vp5rUJY9\">reports\u003c/a> that the amendment to kill the catfish office may not get a vote at all. Why? Agriculture Committee leaders are unlikely to allow it or other \"non-controversial\" amendments to be brought up before a vote on final passage of the farm bill. Over in the House, the Agriculture Committee \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2013/05/usda-catfish-inspection-not-included-in-house-or-senate-farm-bills/#.UbYlGNjzN6O\">has voted\u003c/a> to repeal the inspection program, according to Food Safety News. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/63233/a-senate-farm-bill-catfish-imports","authors":["byline_bayareabites_63233"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_11801","bayareabites_11803","bayareabites_135","bayareabites_2608","bayareabites_11721","bayareabites_11802","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_8913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_63238","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_62070":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_62070","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"62070","score":null,"sort":[1368749856000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america","title":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America","publishDate":1368749856,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 335px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\" alt=\"Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the 1971 film Lady Liberty. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\" width=\"335\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Liberty_(film)\">1971 film\u003c/a> \u003cem>Lady Liberty\u003c/em>. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/16/184553890/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/16/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American gourmets and lovers of Italian food products, your days as food smugglers are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No more stuffing your suitcases with delicacies bought in Italy, hoping the sniffer dogs at JFK or other American airports won't detect the banned-in-the-USA foodstuffs inside your luggage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., they're called cured meats, the French say \u003cem>charcuterie\u003c/em> and in Italy, the word for cured-pork products is \u003cem>salumi. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting May 28, a four-decades-old ban on the import of many Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/30/dining/ban-on-many-italian-pork-products-to-be-relaxed.html\">will be lifted\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. Department of Agriculture has announced that the Italian regions of Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto and Piedmont, and the provinces of Trento and Bolzano, are free of swine vesicular disease. Imports of pork products from those areas, says the USDA, present a low risk of introducing the disease into the U.S. The disease was first detected in the 1960s and can survive cooking and even long curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up to now, only a few Italian pork products were approved for import to the U.S.: prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele, as well as mortadella — which was \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-02-16/features/0002160286_1_italian-swine-fever-ban\">also banned until 2000.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting soon, as long as they receive USDA approval, hundreds of artisanal products will arrive on American tables. It's not yet clear, however, what standards the producers will have to meet and what the costs will be. But even without a ban, Italian cured meat producers must pay hefty fees as part of the process of getting certified for importation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For centuries, Italians have been making some of the highest-quality cured meats in Europe. It's time to start learning some of their names: \u003cem>sopressata,\u003c/em> a slow-cured dried pork, similar in appearance to salami; \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em>, bacon made from the pork belly, but unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em> is cured in salt and spices; \u003cem>coppa\u003c/em> or \u003cem>capocollo\u003c/em>, made from pork shoulder or neck and seasoned with wine, salt and spice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the secret behind the high quality of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many say it's the quality of the pigs, the climate where they're raised and what they're fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, many of them celebrated in weeklong folk festivals. There are fans of \u003cem>Coppa Piacentina\u003c/em> or those who swear by \u003cem>Coppa di Parma\u003c/em>; there's an infinite variety of salamis — from Brianza, Vicenza, Cremona and many more, spiced with garlic, juniper and myrtle berries, fennel and red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the delicacies that may soon reach U.S. shores is \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em>, named after the small town of the same name near Parma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the website \u003ca href=\"http://www.prosciuttopedia.com/\">prosciuttopedia\u003c/a>, \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em> traces its origins to the Middle Ages. The oldest pictorial representation is found in the Parma Baptistery, where one can see two salamis draped over a saucepan. And in 1905, the wording \"Salame di Felino\" was officially included in the dictionary of the Italian language.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62077\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 749px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\" alt=\"Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"749\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62077\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But what cured meat aficionados are most eagerly waiting for is the king of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Culatello.htm\">culatello\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, a product of the flatlands of Zibello and neighboring towns near Parma — a product whose secret ingredient is the dense winter fog that hovers at a particular bend in the Po River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> dates back at least to the 15th century. It's made with the muscular part of the hind leg of pigs born, raised and slaughtered in the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Italian poet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabriele_d'Annunzio\">Gabriele D'Annunzio\u003c/a>, a \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> enthusiast, wrote in 1891, \"It is aged only in the square of land surrounding Zibello, where the air of the Po is often humid and good for the mold that preserves this fatless cut of meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first experienced \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattorialabuca.com/english/start.htm\">Trattoria La Buca di Zibello\u003c/a>, a long-established restaurant run for four generations solely by women. A huge room is dedicated to curing the \u003cem>zibelli\u003c/em> — hundreds hang from the ceiling. The women told me one of the key steps is a loving massage that helps salt penetrate the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> is an expensive delicacy even in Italy, and of the two \u003cem>culatelli\u003c/em> produced by the same animal, one is always better than the other: It's said that pigs are animals of habit and always sleep on the same side, which ends up being the less tender of the two thighs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are some cured pork products that won't soon be imported to the U.S. The region of Tuscany is still on the USDA-restricted list. So, you'll still have to travel there to savor wild boar sausages (my favorite) and\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/curedmeats/r/blr0699.htm\"> finocchiona\u003c/a>\u003c/em> of Siena, a fennel-flavored salami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there's that most sinful of products (sinful for those who have to watch their cholesterol intake), \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Lardo-Di-Colonnata.htm\">lardo di Colonnata\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, the small town perched above the marble quarries of Carrara. That velvety white lard — pork fat from the back of the pig — is cured in marble vats. Locals claim it's the porous quality of the stone that's responsible for its unique, refined taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buon appetito. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>Culatello. Capocollo. Sopressata.\u003c/em> It will soon be legal to import a whole new world of Italian cured pork products, thanks to the USDA's decision to end a decades-long ban. Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive \u003cem>salumi.\u003c/em>","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1368749856,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":942},"headData":{"title":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America | KQED","description":"Culatello. Capocollo. Sopressata. It will soon be legal to import a whole new world of Italian cured pork products, thanks to the USDA's decision to end a decades-long ban. Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive salumi.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America","datePublished":"2013-05-17T00:17:36.000Z","dateModified":"2013-05-17T00:17:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"62070 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=62070","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/16/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america/","disqusTitle":"No More Smuggling: Many Cured Italian Meats Coming To America","nprByline":"Sylvia Poggioli","nprStoryId":"184553890","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=184553890&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/16/184553890/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america?ft=3&f=184553890","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 16 May 2013 18:36:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 16 May 2013 16:38:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 16 May 2013 18:36:20 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/62070/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 335px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/sophia-loren.jpg\" alt=\"Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the 1971 film Lady Liberty. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\" width=\"335\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even Sophia Loren felt compelled to smuggle mortadella, despite a U.S. ban -- well, her character did, anyway, in the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Liberty_(film)\">1971 film\u003c/a> \u003cem>Lady Liberty\u003c/em>. Photo: Warner Bros/The Kobal Collection\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/05/16/184553890/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/16/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American gourmets and lovers of Italian food products, your days as food smugglers are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No more stuffing your suitcases with delicacies bought in Italy, hoping the sniffer dogs at JFK or other American airports won't detect the banned-in-the-USA foodstuffs inside your luggage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., they're called cured meats, the French say \u003cem>charcuterie\u003c/em> and in Italy, the word for cured-pork products is \u003cem>salumi. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting May 28, a four-decades-old ban on the import of many Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/04/30/dining/ban-on-many-italian-pork-products-to-be-relaxed.html\">will be lifted\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. Department of Agriculture has announced that the Italian regions of Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto and Piedmont, and the provinces of Trento and Bolzano, are free of swine vesicular disease. Imports of pork products from those areas, says the USDA, present a low risk of introducing the disease into the U.S. The disease was first detected in the 1960s and can survive cooking and even long curing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Up to now, only a few Italian pork products were approved for import to the U.S.: prosciutto di Parma and prosciutto di San Daniele, as well as mortadella — which was \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-02-16/features/0002160286_1_italian-swine-fever-ban\">also banned until 2000.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting soon, as long as they receive USDA approval, hundreds of artisanal products will arrive on American tables. It's not yet clear, however, what standards the producers will have to meet and what the costs will be. But even without a ban, Italian cured meat producers must pay hefty fees as part of the process of getting certified for importation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For centuries, Italians have been making some of the highest-quality cured meats in Europe. It's time to start learning some of their names: \u003cem>sopressata,\u003c/em> a slow-cured dried pork, similar in appearance to salami; \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em>, bacon made from the pork belly, but unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian \u003cem>pancetta\u003c/em> is cured in salt and spices; \u003cem>coppa\u003c/em> or \u003cem>capocollo\u003c/em>, made from pork shoulder or neck and seasoned with wine, salt and spice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the secret behind the high quality of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many say it's the quality of the pigs, the climate where they're raised and what they're fed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Italian region and province, and even many towns have their own distinctive \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, many of them celebrated in weeklong folk festivals. There are fans of \u003cem>Coppa Piacentina\u003c/em> or those who swear by \u003cem>Coppa di Parma\u003c/em>; there's an infinite variety of salamis — from Brianza, Vicenza, Cremona and many more, spiced with garlic, juniper and myrtle berries, fennel and red wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the delicacies that may soon reach U.S. shores is \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em>, named after the small town of the same name near Parma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the website \u003ca href=\"http://www.prosciuttopedia.com/\">prosciuttopedia\u003c/a>, \u003cem>salame di Felino\u003c/em> traces its origins to the Middle Ages. The oldest pictorial representation is found in the Parma Baptistery, where one can see two salamis draped over a saucepan. And in 1905, the wording \"Salame di Felino\" was officially included in the dictionary of the Italian language.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_62077\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 749px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/pancetta.jpg\" alt=\"Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"749\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-62077\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various types of pancetta, bacon made from pork belly, on display in Turin, Italy. Unlike the American variety, which is smoked, Italian pancetta is cured in salt and spices. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But what cured meat aficionados are most eagerly waiting for is the king of Italian \u003cem>salumi\u003c/em>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Culatello.htm\">culatello\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, a product of the flatlands of Zibello and neighboring towns near Parma — a product whose secret ingredient is the dense winter fog that hovers at a particular bend in the Po River.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> dates back at least to the 15th century. It's made with the muscular part of the hind leg of pigs born, raised and slaughtered in the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy regions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Italian poet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gabriele_d'Annunzio\">Gabriele D'Annunzio\u003c/a>, a \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> enthusiast, wrote in 1891, \"It is aged only in the square of land surrounding Zibello, where the air of the Po is often humid and good for the mold that preserves this fatless cut of meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first experienced \u003cem>culatello\u003c/em> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattorialabuca.com/english/start.htm\">Trattoria La Buca di Zibello\u003c/a>, a long-established restaurant run for four generations solely by women. A huge room is dedicated to curing the \u003cem>zibelli\u003c/em> — hundreds hang from the ceiling. The women told me one of the key steps is a loving massage that helps salt penetrate the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Culatello\u003c/em> is an expensive delicacy even in Italy, and of the two \u003cem>culatelli\u003c/em> produced by the same animal, one is always better than the other: It's said that pigs are animals of habit and always sleep on the same side, which ends up being the less tender of the two thighs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are some cured pork products that won't soon be imported to the U.S. The region of Tuscany is still on the USDA-restricted list. So, you'll still have to travel there to savor wild boar sausages (my favorite) and\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/curedmeats/r/blr0699.htm\"> finocchiona\u003c/a>\u003c/em> of Siena, a fennel-flavored salami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there's that most sinful of products (sinful for those who have to watch their cholesterol intake), \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://italianfood.about.com/od/italianmeatrecipes/ig/Salumi--Italian-Cold-Cuts/Lardo-Di-Colonnata.htm\">lardo di Colonnata\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, the small town perched above the marble quarries of Carrara. That velvety white lard — pork fat from the back of the pig — is cured in marble vats. Locals claim it's the porous quality of the stone that's responsible for its unique, refined taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buon appetito. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/62070/no-more-smuggling-many-cured-italian-meats-coming-to-america","authors":["byline_bayareabites_62070"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_320","bayareabites_11718","bayareabites_11721","bayareabites_11719","bayareabites_318","bayareabites_11720","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_8913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_62072","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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