Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic
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Goodfriend","firstName":"Wendy","lastName":"Goodfriend","slug":"wendy-goodfriend","email":"wendy@wendygoodfriend.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"I was the Senior Digital Producer for KQED Food up until July, 2018. Since 2001, I designed, produced, managed and contributed to mostly food-related websites and blogs for KQED including: KQED.org; KQED Food; Bay Area Bites; Check, Please! Bay Area; Taste This; Celebrity Chefs; seven of Jacques Pepin's TV series websites; and Joanne Weir's Cooking in the City. I initiated the majority of KQED Food's social media feeds and maintained them up until 2017. As far as content creation, photography is my passion and I also shoot video and write stories. My photos have been used in articles for KQED Food, News, Arts, and Science as well as for promotional purposes in print and online. Professional education and training includes: clinical psychology, photography, commercial cooking, web design, information architecture and UX.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":"bayareabites","instagram":null,"linkedin":"wendygoodfriend","sites":[{"site":"jpepinheart","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"about","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"science","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"food","roles":["author"]},{"site":"essentialpepin","roles":["administrator"]}],"headData":{"title":"Wendy Goodfriend | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/wendy-goodfriend"},"kim-laidlaw":{"type":"authors","id":"5015","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5015","found":true},"name":"Kim Laidlaw","firstName":"Kim","lastName":"Laidlaw","slug":"kim-laidlaw","email":"kim_laidlaw@yahoo.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kim Laidlaw is a cookbook author, editor, food writer, producer, project manager, and baker who has been in the kitchen covered in flour since she was big enough to stir the biscuit dough. She has over 16 years of experience in book and online publishing, and a lifetime of experience in the kitchen. \r\n\r\nHer first cookbook, Home Baked Comfort, was published in 2011; her second cookbook, Baby & Toddler On the Go, was published in April 2013; and her third cookbook, Williams-Sonoma Dessert of the Day, was published in October 2013. \r\n\r\nShe was the first blogger on KQED’s Bay Area Bites blog, which launched in 2005, and previously worked as a professional baker at La Farine French Bakery in Oakland, CA. She lives in Petaluma with her husband and their child, whom she cooks for everyday. Find out more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimlaidlaw.com\">http://www.kimlaidlaw.com\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/284503bc296b6f7822eb38b816292376?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":"kimilaw","instagram":null,"linkedin":"kimlaidlaw","sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Laidlaw | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/284503bc296b6f7822eb38b816292376?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/284503bc296b6f7822eb38b816292376?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kim-laidlaw"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_74260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_74260","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"74260","score":null,"sort":[1385229565000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"kqeds-forum-thanksgiving-advice-for-your-holiday-kitchen","title":"KQED's Forum: Thanksgiving Advice for Your Holiday Kitchen","publishDate":1385229565,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74358\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/apple-pie-hands1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/apple-pie-hands1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Pie by Stephanie Rosenbaum. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74358\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple Pie by Stephanie Rosenbaum. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to KQED's Forum: Thanksgiving Advice for Your Holiday Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201311221000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nFri, Nov 22, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\nhttp://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/11/20131122bforum.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving is less than a week away. Whether you're roasting your turkey, brining it or ditching the bird altogether, join KQED's Forum as they share recipes and ask cooking experts for their best techniques and tricks on how to spice up entrees, side dishes and desserts for the holiday season. Also, Forum shares a few recipes for \"Thanksgivukkah,\" since Thanksgiving and Hanukkah overlap this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Dave Iverson\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a>, cookbook author and contributor to KQED's Bay Area Bites blog\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephanie-rosenbaum/\">Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/a>, local food writer, blogger at KQED's Bay Area Bites, author of numerous cookbooks including \"The Art of Vintage Cocktails\" and former lead restaurant critic for San Francisco Magazine and the San Francisco Bay Guardian\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/18/qa-with-traci-des-jardins-happy-15th-birthday-jardiniere-restaurant/\">Traci Des Jardins\u003c/a>, chef and owner of Jardiniere in Hayes Valley and Mijita Cocina Mexicana in the San Francisco Ferry Building, two-time James Beard award winner and finalist on the Bravo TV show \"Top Chef Masters 3.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/holiday-recipes/\">Holiday recipes from Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/20/whats-trending-in-food-magazines-thanksgiving-classics/\">What's Trending in Food Magazines? Thanksgiving Classics\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>Thanksgiving Recipes from Traci Des Jardins\u003c/h2>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Grilled Brined Turkey\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8-10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 gallons water\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n3 carrots, peeled and diced\u003cbr>\n1 large onion, peeled and diced\u003cbr>\n1 bunch celery, diced\u003cbr>\n2 leeks, cleaned and diced\u003cbr>\n2 bay leaves\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon coriander seeds\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds\u003cbr>\n2 star anise\u003cbr>\n1 bunch fresh thyme\u003cbr>\n1 bunch fresh sage\u003cbr>\n1/2 bunch Italian parsley\u003cbr>\n4 Tablespoons olive oil or butter\u003cbr>\n1 8-10 pound whole turkey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring 2 gallons of water, salt, sugar, vegetables and spices to boil in a large stockpot. Cool completely. If you want to speed up the process, use half the water initially and then add ice to equal the 2 gallons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the giblets from the turkey. Add the turkey to the stockpot and place a plate on top to weigh the turkey down to insure full immersion. Refrigerate the whole turkey for 24-36 hours. Remove from brine and place the turkey in a large, disposable, aluminum-roasting pan. Allow the turkey to come to room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, start the grill. When the coals are white hot, bank them up high along the perimeter of the grill so they form a circle. Place the roasting pan on the grill rack and cover with the lid. Control the temperature of the grill by opening and closing the vents. If the grill is too hot, close the vents slightly, but not all of the way. If the grill is too cold, open the vents. While the turkey is cooking, baste frequently with olive oil or butter and pan juices. It may be necessary to add more coals during the cooking process. If so, fire the coals in a cone separately and add them when they are hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's important to know that brined turkeys cook more rapidly than un-brined turkeys. So you should check the internal temperature of the turkey after 1½ hours grilling time. Remove the turkey from the grill when the deepest part of the thigh reaches 160F. Let the turkey rest for 20 minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Mashed Potatoes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds yellow finn or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled\u003cbr>\n1/2 pound unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup milk\u003cbr>\nSalt and white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the potatoes in a pot of slightly salted water and cook until tender , but not mushy, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from the water and pass the potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer or use a potato masher. Place the milled potatoes into a heavy -bottomed pot and begin to stir with a wooden paddle. Add the butter a little at time, stirring vigorously until the butter is completely incorporated. Add the milk and mix until incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Gesier, Chestnut and Chanterelles Stuffing\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 12\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 quarts Batard bread, crust removed, cut into 1.5 inch cubes\u003cbr>\n4 eggs\u003cbr>\n2 cups celery, cut into 3/4 inch squares\u003cbr>\n2 cups onion, cut into 3/4 inch squares\u003cbr>\n2 cups leeks, cut into 3/4 inch squares\u003cbr>\n4 lbs chanterelles, cleaned and sliced\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n3 pounds chestnuts, roasted and peeled\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bread into a large mixing bowl and toss with a few tablespoons of duck fat. Place into a 400-degree oven on a cookie sheet and cook until browned, remove and place back into the mixing bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large sauté pan, sauté the chanterelles in the butter until golden brown, season with salt and pepper and add to the bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the vegetables into the same pan and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper and add to the bread mixture. Roughly chop the chestnuts and add to the mixture. Chop the gesiers and add to the mixture with a few tablespoons of duck fat. Add the Italian parsley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix everything together very well and taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper as necessary Beat the egg well and add to the mixture, mix together very well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place into a casserole dish and bake in a 350 degree oven for 25 minutes until golden brown on the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gesier:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pound gizzards (duck, chicken or turkey)\u003cbr>\n3 cups rendered duck fat\u003cbr>\n3 sprigs of thyme\u003cbr>\n4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heavily salt the gizzards, combine with the thyme and garlic and allow to sit overnight, or for at least a few hours. Place the melted fat and the gizzards into a hotel pan or deep casserole dish and place into a preheated oven at 225 degrees. Cook for 2 to 3 hours or until completely tender, remove from the fat and refrigerate.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Brussels Sprouts with Brown Butter and Grain Mustard\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving, but we have also used it at times in my restaurants for a side of vegetables. The sweet and bitter of the Brussels sprouts combine with the earthy mustard, toasty butter and the acid, making quite a magical flavor combination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds Brussels sprouts\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup butter\u003cbr>\n3 heaping tablespoons of whole grain mustard\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons banyuls vinegar, red wine vinegar can substitute\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup roughly chopped flat leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the rough exterior leaves of the Brussels sprouts along with any of the stem and discard. Remove a few layers of the greenish leaves until the yellow starts to show, keep the green leaves separate from the centers. Quarter the centers. Blanch the centers in salted boiling water until just al dente, about 4-5 minutes, and then spread on a large surface pan to cool. Very briefly plunge the green leaves into the water, remove and spread out to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To finish the dish, use a fairly large non-reactive and not black bottomed pan, place the butter in pan and put on a medium to medium-high heat. Cook the butter until golden brown and giving off a nutty aroma, add the grain mustard to the pan and toast slightly for just a moment. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook for about two minutes or just until the sprouts are hot throughout, add the vinegar and taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper as necessary and finish with the parsley.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Thanksgiving is less than a week away. Whether you're roasting your turkey, brining it or ditching the bird altogether, join KQED's Forum as they share recipes and ask cooking experts for their best techniques and tricks on how to spice up entrees, side dishes and desserts for the holiday season. Also, Forum shares a few recipes for \"Thanksgivukkah,\" since Thanksgiving and Hanukkah overlap this year.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1411089045,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1293},"headData":{"title":"KQED's Forum: Thanksgiving Advice for Your Holiday Kitchen | KQED","description":"Thanksgiving is less than a week away. Whether you're roasting your turkey, brining it or ditching the bird altogether, join KQED's Forum as they share recipes and ask cooking experts for their best techniques and tricks on how to spice up entrees, side dishes and desserts for the holiday season. Also, Forum shares a few recipes for "Thanksgivukkah," since Thanksgiving and Hanukkah overlap this year.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"KQED's Forum: Thanksgiving Advice for Your Holiday Kitchen","datePublished":"2013-11-23T17:59:25.000Z","dateModified":"2014-09-19T01:10:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"74260 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=74260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/23/kqeds-forum-thanksgiving-advice-for-your-holiday-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"KQED's Forum: Thanksgiving Advice for Your Holiday Kitchen","path":"/bayareabites/74260/kqeds-forum-thanksgiving-advice-for-your-holiday-kitchen","audioUrl":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/11/20131122bforum.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74358\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/apple-pie-hands1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/apple-pie-hands1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Apple Pie by Stephanie Rosenbaum. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74358\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple Pie by Stephanie Rosenbaum. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to KQED's Forum: Thanksgiving Advice for Your Holiday Kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201311221000\">Original Broadcast\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nFri, Nov 22, 2013 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/forum/2013/11/20131122bforum.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Thanksgiving is less than a week away. Whether you're roasting your turkey, brining it or ditching the bird altogether, join KQED's Forum as they share recipes and ask cooking experts for their best techniques and tricks on how to spice up entrees, side dishes and desserts for the holiday season. Also, Forum shares a few recipes for \"Thanksgivukkah,\" since Thanksgiving and Hanukkah overlap this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Dave Iverson\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a>, cookbook author and contributor to KQED's Bay Area Bites blog\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephanie-rosenbaum/\">Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/a>, local food writer, blogger at KQED's Bay Area Bites, author of numerous cookbooks including \"The Art of Vintage Cocktails\" and former lead restaurant critic for San Francisco Magazine and the San Francisco Bay Guardian\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/18/qa-with-traci-des-jardins-happy-15th-birthday-jardiniere-restaurant/\">Traci Des Jardins\u003c/a>, chef and owner of Jardiniere in Hayes Valley and Mijita Cocina Mexicana in the San Francisco Ferry Building, two-time James Beard award winner and finalist on the Bravo TV show \"Top Chef Masters 3.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/holiday-recipes/\">Holiday recipes from Bay Area Bites\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/20/whats-trending-in-food-magazines-thanksgiving-classics/\">What's Trending in Food Magazines? Thanksgiving Classics\u003c/a> (NPR Food)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>Thanksgiving Recipes from Traci Des Jardins\u003c/h2>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Grilled Brined Turkey\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8-10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 gallons water\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n3 carrots, peeled and diced\u003cbr>\n1 large onion, peeled and diced\u003cbr>\n1 bunch celery, diced\u003cbr>\n2 leeks, cleaned and diced\u003cbr>\n2 bay leaves\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n1 Tablespoon coriander seeds\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds\u003cbr>\n2 star anise\u003cbr>\n1 bunch fresh thyme\u003cbr>\n1 bunch fresh sage\u003cbr>\n1/2 bunch Italian parsley\u003cbr>\n4 Tablespoons olive oil or butter\u003cbr>\n1 8-10 pound whole turkey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring 2 gallons of water, salt, sugar, vegetables and spices to boil in a large stockpot. Cool completely. If you want to speed up the process, use half the water initially and then add ice to equal the 2 gallons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the giblets from the turkey. Add the turkey to the stockpot and place a plate on top to weigh the turkey down to insure full immersion. Refrigerate the whole turkey for 24-36 hours. Remove from brine and place the turkey in a large, disposable, aluminum-roasting pan. Allow the turkey to come to room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, start the grill. When the coals are white hot, bank them up high along the perimeter of the grill so they form a circle. Place the roasting pan on the grill rack and cover with the lid. Control the temperature of the grill by opening and closing the vents. If the grill is too hot, close the vents slightly, but not all of the way. If the grill is too cold, open the vents. While the turkey is cooking, baste frequently with olive oil or butter and pan juices. It may be necessary to add more coals during the cooking process. If so, fire the coals in a cone separately and add them when they are hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's important to know that brined turkeys cook more rapidly than un-brined turkeys. So you should check the internal temperature of the turkey after 1½ hours grilling time. Remove the turkey from the grill when the deepest part of the thigh reaches 160F. Let the turkey rest for 20 minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Mashed Potatoes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds yellow finn or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled\u003cbr>\n1/2 pound unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup milk\u003cbr>\nSalt and white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the potatoes in a pot of slightly salted water and cook until tender , but not mushy, approximately 15 minutes. Remove from the water and pass the potatoes through a food mill or potato ricer or use a potato masher. Place the milled potatoes into a heavy -bottomed pot and begin to stir with a wooden paddle. Add the butter a little at time, stirring vigorously until the butter is completely incorporated. Add the milk and mix until incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Gesier, Chestnut and Chanterelles Stuffing\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 12\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 quarts Batard bread, crust removed, cut into 1.5 inch cubes\u003cbr>\n4 eggs\u003cbr>\n2 cups celery, cut into 3/4 inch squares\u003cbr>\n2 cups onion, cut into 3/4 inch squares\u003cbr>\n2 cups leeks, cut into 3/4 inch squares\u003cbr>\n4 lbs chanterelles, cleaned and sliced\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n3 pounds chestnuts, roasted and peeled\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bread into a large mixing bowl and toss with a few tablespoons of duck fat. Place into a 400-degree oven on a cookie sheet and cook until browned, remove and place back into the mixing bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large sauté pan, sauté the chanterelles in the butter until golden brown, season with salt and pepper and add to the bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the vegetables into the same pan and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper and add to the bread mixture. Roughly chop the chestnuts and add to the mixture. Chop the gesiers and add to the mixture with a few tablespoons of duck fat. Add the Italian parsley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix everything together very well and taste for seasoning, add salt and pepper as necessary Beat the egg well and add to the mixture, mix together very well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place into a casserole dish and bake in a 350 degree oven for 25 minutes until golden brown on the top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gesier:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pound gizzards (duck, chicken or turkey)\u003cbr>\n3 cups rendered duck fat\u003cbr>\n3 sprigs of thyme\u003cbr>\n4 cloves garlic, lightly crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heavily salt the gizzards, combine with the thyme and garlic and allow to sit overnight, or for at least a few hours. Place the melted fat and the gizzards into a hotel pan or deep casserole dish and place into a preheated oven at 225 degrees. Cook for 2 to 3 hours or until completely tender, remove from the fat and refrigerate.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Brussels Sprouts with Brown Butter and Grain Mustard\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is a favorite of mine for Thanksgiving, but we have also used it at times in my restaurants for a side of vegetables. The sweet and bitter of the Brussels sprouts combine with the earthy mustard, toasty butter and the acid, making quite a magical flavor combination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds Brussels sprouts\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup butter\u003cbr>\n3 heaping tablespoons of whole grain mustard\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons banyuls vinegar, red wine vinegar can substitute\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup roughly chopped flat leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the rough exterior leaves of the Brussels sprouts along with any of the stem and discard. Remove a few layers of the greenish leaves until the yellow starts to show, keep the green leaves separate from the centers. Quarter the centers. Blanch the centers in salted boiling water until just al dente, about 4-5 minutes, and then spread on a large surface pan to cool. Very briefly plunge the green leaves into the water, remove and spread out to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To finish the dish, use a fairly large non-reactive and not black bottomed pan, place the butter in pan and put on a medium to medium-high heat. Cook the butter until golden brown and giving off a nutty aroma, add the grain mustard to the pan and toast slightly for just a moment. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook for about two minutes or just until the sprouts are hot throughout, add the vinegar and taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper as necessary and finish with the parsley.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/74260/kqeds-forum-thanksgiving-advice-for-your-holiday-kitchen","authors":["5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_45","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12694","bayareabites_1325","bayareabites_228","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_12693","bayareabites_1251","bayareabites_543"],"featImg":"bayareabites_74359","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_73893":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_73893","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"73893","score":null,"sort":[1385132258000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"talking-turkey-part-2-tips-and-techniques-for-cooking-your-thanksgiving-bird","title":"Talking Turkey, Part 2: Tips and Techniques for Cooking Your Thanksgiving Bird","publishDate":1385132258,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkey321.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkey321.jpg\" alt=\"Deconstructed Turkey - breast and wings cooked separately from legs and thighs. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74132\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deconstructed Turkey - breast and wings cooked separately from legs and thighs. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Turkey time is fast approaching. By now, we hope you've used our handy \u003ca href=\"//blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/19/talking-turkey-how-to-choose-your-thanksgiving-bird/\">Talking Turkey\u003c/a> guide to figure out what kind of bird you want. Once your bird's ordered, though, things can get a little panicky. As author Sam Sifton put it so memorably,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"You can go your whole life and then wake up one morning and look in the refrigerator at this animal carcass the size of a toddler and think: \u003cem>I have to cook that today.\"\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Ward off big-bird anxiety by chatting with your friendly neighborhood butcher. Bay Area Bites recently asked Monica Rocchino of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thelocalbutchershop.com\">The Local Butcher Shop\u003c/a> in Berkeley for her advice on avoiding the most typical turkey fails. Rocchino is a big advocate for the take-it-apart approach outlined by Kim Laidlaw in her recent column, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/13/deconstructed-turkey-a-succulent-alternative-to-a-thanksgiving-classic/\">Deconstructed Turkey\u003c/a>. For Rocchino's take on this bake-and-braise method, check out her Berkeleyside column from last year, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2012/11/14/why-norman-rockwells-turkey-dinner-sets-us-up-to-fail/\">Why Norman Rockwell's Turkey Dinner Sets Us Up to Fail.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/monica1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/monica1000.jpg\" alt=\"Monica Rocchino of The Local Butcher Shop in Berkeley. Photo: Jordan Davidson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74128\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monica Rocchino of The Local Butcher Shop in Berkeley. Photo: Jordan Davidson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Brining: yes or no?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rocchino:\u003c/strong> Brining definitely helps to keep your bird moist and protects it from overcooking. It also seasons the bird really well. It’s hard to properly season a whole bird with all of its nooks and crannies, and also get the cavity seasoned evenly. A brine solution allows the seasonings to get into all of the cracks evenly and also allows the salt to be absorbed into the meat, not just on the skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Is there one big mistake you think people make in preparing and/or cooking their turkeys? What's the best way to avoid it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rocchino:\u003c/strong> There are two big mistakes. Number one, you have to bring the bird up to room temperature before you put it in the oven. This allows for even cooking rather than the outside getting hammered with heat while the inside tries to catch up. Number two, you have to let the turkey rest before you carve it. This can take up to an hour. If you don’t allow the turkey to rest, all of the juices will spill out when you carve it, leaving a really juicy cutting board and a really dry turkey. It’s better to have a room temperature piece of turkey that is juicy with hot gravy on top rather than a piping hot slice of turkey that is super dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How do you know when your turkey is ready?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rocchino: \u003c/strong>Any instant read thermometer will do the trick. Make sure it is calibrated before you use it. When you take the bird’s temperature, make sure to test it in the thickest part of the thigh, which takes the longest to cook. Again, it’s best to cook the turkey in parts so that your breast is cooked correctly and your legs are also cooked correctly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/thanksgiving-samsifton.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/thanksgiving-samsifton-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thanksgiving: How to Cook It Well by Sam Sifton\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-74110\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still need a little hand-holding to get you through the run-up to the big day? What you need is a book that will make you feel like you're hanging out in the cozy kitchen of the writer as he or she stirs, fries, gossips, and bakes. On this front, nothing beats Sifton's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069912/kqedorg-20\">Thanksgiving: How to Cook it Well\u003c/a>. Sifton spent close to a decade as a writer and editor at the \u003ca href=\"http://nypress.com/\">New York Press\u003c/a>, a scrappy alternative weekly, before he was tapped for the dining section of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. So, despite two years as the Times' restaurant critic--an Olympian position if there ever was one--Sifton's voice is amusing and approachable, pretense-free but reassuringly knowledgable. For a couple of years he spent Thanksgiving Day in the newsroom of the Times, answering panicked questions from readers. As he writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I was a one-man Thanksgiving help line. The questions came fast and furious...I answered questions on the newspaper's Web site about burning turkeys and still-frozen ones, bland gravies and last-minute cranberry sauces, too-thick corn puddings, underdone squash, what to do with someone's vegan aunt or carnivorous boss. I consulted on failed pumpkin pies and epic turducken blunders. I worked the turkey-oven-temperature-time equation as if studying for a doctoral exam.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>He stands up for cloth napkins, nothing canned (except for canned pumpkin for pies, and, if you must, that wiggly cranberry jelly), and proper table settings and passed family-style platters rather than piles of plates next to serve-yourself pans on the kitchen counter. But he doesn't care if your table is plywood and your plates mismatched; it's the gesture, not the price of the wedding china, that counts. The main thing is finding joy in your companions and serenity, somewhere, in the cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if you have your recipes nailed down, his book is worth a read for its numerous helpful hints. Sketch out the pots and pans you'll need to cook each dish ahead of time, so you know what might be missing before you're elbow-deep in squash. Ditto laying out all the serving dishes and utensils on the dinner table a day or two beforehand. That way, you'll know, first, if they fit, and second, if you need to shop for (or borrow) an extra gravy boat, more serving spoons, or a bigger bowl for the mashed potatoes. (Plus, festive anticipation!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/homecooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/homecooking-185x290.jpg\" alt=\"Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin\" width=\"185\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-74114\">\u003c/a>Innumerable Thanksgivings across the land have been bettered by the Cornbread and Proscuitto Stuffing recipe detailed in \"Stuffing: A Confession\" in Laurie Colwin's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307474410/kqedorg-20\">Home Cooking,\u003c/a> and by the roast turkey, turkey jook, turkey salad, pecan-chestnut stuffing, and Cider Jelly in \"Turkey Angst\" and \"All the Trimmings\" from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060955317/kqedorg-20\">More Home Cooking.\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colwin, a much-loved novelist who died in 1992, has an unmistakable voice: funny, chatty, warm, encouraging and confident that anyone who wants to can turn out a decent meal. Speaking from happy experience, I can attest that just about all her recipes can be made in a tiny kitchen, using garage-sale equipment, with a much greater payoff in pleasure than their humble ingredients might warrant at first glance.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/morehomecooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/morehomecooking-189x290.jpg\" alt=\"More Home Cooking by Laurie Colwin\" width=\"189\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-74116\">\u003c/a>My copies of her two books of essays-with-recipes are annotated, soup-splashed, and falling apart with love and use. When I go into new friends' homes and see their own battered versions, I know we'll be not only good friends but like-minded partners in the kitchen. As Colwin writes about her leftover turkey salad, studded with scallions and capers and dressed with lemon-spiked mayonnaise, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"You need not feel greedy if this turkey salad is consumed entirely by you. A person who bastes a turkey all day long on behalf of other people's holiday pleasure deserves it. This person is a \u003cem>saint,\u003c/em> and if she or he has finished off all the nicest turkey bits plus the last of the capers, tough darts. Turkey roasting's heroes deserve rewards.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Colwin's approach, sensible and unfussy, is a less profane version than cooking teacher Mary Risley's now-classic moment of Thanksgiving reassurance, \u003cstrong>Just Put the F*cking Turkey in the Oven\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=foA0MGUbYH0]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if the thought of cooking that toddler-size carcass in the fridge is keeping you up at night, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0762444843/kqedorg-20\">Culinary Birds: The Ultimate Poultry Cookbook\u003c/a> will calm you down more effectively than chug-a-lugging the Pinot on Thursday morning. Longtime wine country chef, culinary instructor and cookbook author John Ash breaks down all the basics you need to know to get your bird on the table browned, juicy, and ready for carving. He offers two main Thanksgiving-classic recipes: \u003cstrong>Roast Turkey with herb gravy\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Smoked Turkey on the Grill\u003c/strong> (recipe below), both brined in a salt solution flavored with maple syrup, fresh ginger, soy sauce, and garlic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/TG-bookcover.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/TG-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary Birds: The Ultimate Poultry Cookbook by John Ash. Photo: Jessica Nicosia-Nadler\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-74107\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Smoked Turkey on the Grill\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0762444843/kqedorg-20\">Culinary Birds\u003c/a> by John Ash, Running Press 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll need a barbecue with a tight cover so that you can control the amount of oxygen and heat. To maximize the flavor and moisture, brine the bird first, then select a good hardwood to use as the smoking medium. You can find them in various sizes from sawdust to small chips to chunks. They all work. Hickory and oak are probably the most commonly available, but also look for fruit woods such as apple, pear, cherry, walnut, or pecan. You will need a good thermometer. I prefer the digital version, which you can leave in the bird the entire time. Use the indirect method described in the recipe and be sure to regulate the heat so that the bird doesn’t cook too quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The following recipe makes a gallon or so of brine, which should be plenty for a 12- to 14-pound turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MAKES 12 SERVINGS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups (400g) packed brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (250g) pure maple syrup\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup (170g) coarse salt\u003cbr>\n3 whole heads garlic, cloves separated and bruised\u003cbr>\n6 large bay leaves\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups (144g) coarsely chopped unpeeled fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons dried red chili flakes\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups (350mL) soy sauce\u003cbr>\n3 quarts (2.85L) water\u003cbr>\n12- to 14-pound (5.4 to 6.3kg) dressed fresh turkey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Combine all the ingredients except the turkey in a large enamel or stainless steel stockpot that is large enough to hold the brine and the turkey. Bring to a simmer and then remove from the heat and allow to cool thoroughly. Rinse the turkey well; remove the neck and giblets, and save them for stock or discard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Submerge the turkey in the cooled brine. Be sure there is enough brine to cover the bird. If not, add water to cover. Refrigerate for at least 2 days and up to 4. Turn the bird in the brine twice a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Remove the bird from the brine and pat dry. Lightly brush the bird with olive oil and set aside. Prepare the barbecue by lighting 24 charcoal briquettes (preferably in a chimney starter). When hot and spotted gray, divide the briquettes in half and push to opposite sides of the grate. Place a metal drip pan that is at least 1 inch deep in the center with the hot coals on either side. The pan should be large enough to catch the drips from anywhere on the turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place a half cup or so of the wood smoking chips in the center of a double layer of heavy duty foil cut approximately 10 inches square. Form the foil into a ball shape and poke some holes in it. Place on top of one of the mounds of hot coals*.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Put the upper rack of the barbecue in place and then center the turkey on the rack over the drip pan. Cover the barbecue and partially close the air vents to restrict the oxygen (but not so much so that you put out the coals). Within a few minutes, the wood chips should start smoking. Regulate the vents to keep the chips smoking and the coals slowly burning. Check every 25 minutes or so to make sure the coals are still hot and smoke is continuing. Add charcoal and additional chips as needed. The internal temperature of the barbecue should be in the 275°F to 300°F range.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Keep the smoke going for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. After that, remove any remaining wood chips and continue cooking without smoke until the bird is done. This ensures that the turkey will not be too smoky in flavor, but you can adjust to taste. The total cooking time for a 12- to 14-pound bird will be approximately 3 to 3 1/2 hours. The internal temperature of the bird should be 165°F when tested at the thickest part of the thigh or breast. Make sure the thermometer is not touching bone. You can also test by cutting a little incision at the leg-thigh joint and making sure the meat is cooked and juices run clear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Remove the turkey from the barbecue and allow it to rest at least 30 minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Alternatively, you can use a small 6-inch cast iron skillet to hold the wood chips. Look at garage sales and keep it for this purpose.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Thanksgiving is fast approaching. Bay Area Bites talks turkey with Local Butcher Shop's Monica Rocchino, collects some tips from favorite cookbooks, and finds a great recipe for Smoked Turkey on the Grill from the newest cookbook from the wine country's John Ash. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1388510840,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":36,"wordCount":2095},"headData":{"title":"Talking Turkey, Part 2: Tips and Techniques for Cooking Your Thanksgiving Bird | KQED","description":"Thanksgiving is fast approaching. Bay Area Bites talks turkey with Local Butcher Shop's Monica Rocchino, collects some tips from favorite cookbooks, and finds a great recipe for Smoked Turkey on the Grill from the newest cookbook from the wine country's John Ash. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Talking Turkey, Part 2: Tips and Techniques for Cooking Your Thanksgiving Bird","datePublished":"2013-11-22T14:57:38.000Z","dateModified":"2013-12-31T17:27:20.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"73893 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=73893","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/22/talking-turkey-part-2-tips-and-techniques-for-cooking-your-thanksgiving-bird/","disqusTitle":"Talking Turkey, Part 2: Tips and Techniques for Cooking Your Thanksgiving Bird","path":"/bayareabites/73893/talking-turkey-part-2-tips-and-techniques-for-cooking-your-thanksgiving-bird","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkey321.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkey321.jpg\" alt=\"Deconstructed Turkey - breast and wings cooked separately from legs and thighs. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74132\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deconstructed Turkey - breast and wings cooked separately from legs and thighs. Photo: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Turkey time is fast approaching. By now, we hope you've used our handy \u003ca href=\"//blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/19/talking-turkey-how-to-choose-your-thanksgiving-bird/\">Talking Turkey\u003c/a> guide to figure out what kind of bird you want. Once your bird's ordered, though, things can get a little panicky. As author Sam Sifton put it so memorably,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"You can go your whole life and then wake up one morning and look in the refrigerator at this animal carcass the size of a toddler and think: \u003cem>I have to cook that today.\"\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Ward off big-bird anxiety by chatting with your friendly neighborhood butcher. Bay Area Bites recently asked Monica Rocchino of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thelocalbutchershop.com\">The Local Butcher Shop\u003c/a> in Berkeley for her advice on avoiding the most typical turkey fails. Rocchino is a big advocate for the take-it-apart approach outlined by Kim Laidlaw in her recent column, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/13/deconstructed-turkey-a-succulent-alternative-to-a-thanksgiving-classic/\">Deconstructed Turkey\u003c/a>. For Rocchino's take on this bake-and-braise method, check out her Berkeleyside column from last year, \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2012/11/14/why-norman-rockwells-turkey-dinner-sets-us-up-to-fail/\">Why Norman Rockwell's Turkey Dinner Sets Us Up to Fail.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/monica1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/monica1000.jpg\" alt=\"Monica Rocchino of The Local Butcher Shop in Berkeley. Photo: Jordan Davidson\" width=\"1000\" height=\"665\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74128\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monica Rocchino of The Local Butcher Shop in Berkeley. Photo: Jordan Davidson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Brining: yes or no?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rocchino:\u003c/strong> Brining definitely helps to keep your bird moist and protects it from overcooking. It also seasons the bird really well. It’s hard to properly season a whole bird with all of its nooks and crannies, and also get the cavity seasoned evenly. A brine solution allows the seasonings to get into all of the cracks evenly and also allows the salt to be absorbed into the meat, not just on the skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Is there one big mistake you think people make in preparing and/or cooking their turkeys? What's the best way to avoid it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rocchino:\u003c/strong> There are two big mistakes. Number one, you have to bring the bird up to room temperature before you put it in the oven. This allows for even cooking rather than the outside getting hammered with heat while the inside tries to catch up. Number two, you have to let the turkey rest before you carve it. This can take up to an hour. If you don’t allow the turkey to rest, all of the juices will spill out when you carve it, leaving a really juicy cutting board and a really dry turkey. It’s better to have a room temperature piece of turkey that is juicy with hot gravy on top rather than a piping hot slice of turkey that is super dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How do you know when your turkey is ready?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rocchino: \u003c/strong>Any instant read thermometer will do the trick. Make sure it is calibrated before you use it. When you take the bird’s temperature, make sure to test it in the thickest part of the thigh, which takes the longest to cook. Again, it’s best to cook the turkey in parts so that your breast is cooked correctly and your legs are also cooked correctly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/thanksgiving-samsifton.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/thanksgiving-samsifton-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thanksgiving: How to Cook It Well by Sam Sifton\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-74110\">\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still need a little hand-holding to get you through the run-up to the big day? What you need is a book that will make you feel like you're hanging out in the cozy kitchen of the writer as he or she stirs, fries, gossips, and bakes. On this front, nothing beats Sifton's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400069912/kqedorg-20\">Thanksgiving: How to Cook it Well\u003c/a>. Sifton spent close to a decade as a writer and editor at the \u003ca href=\"http://nypress.com/\">New York Press\u003c/a>, a scrappy alternative weekly, before he was tapped for the dining section of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com\">New York Times\u003c/a>. So, despite two years as the Times' restaurant critic--an Olympian position if there ever was one--Sifton's voice is amusing and approachable, pretense-free but reassuringly knowledgable. For a couple of years he spent Thanksgiving Day in the newsroom of the Times, answering panicked questions from readers. As he writes,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I was a one-man Thanksgiving help line. The questions came fast and furious...I answered questions on the newspaper's Web site about burning turkeys and still-frozen ones, bland gravies and last-minute cranberry sauces, too-thick corn puddings, underdone squash, what to do with someone's vegan aunt or carnivorous boss. I consulted on failed pumpkin pies and epic turducken blunders. I worked the turkey-oven-temperature-time equation as if studying for a doctoral exam.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>He stands up for cloth napkins, nothing canned (except for canned pumpkin for pies, and, if you must, that wiggly cranberry jelly), and proper table settings and passed family-style platters rather than piles of plates next to serve-yourself pans on the kitchen counter. But he doesn't care if your table is plywood and your plates mismatched; it's the gesture, not the price of the wedding china, that counts. The main thing is finding joy in your companions and serenity, somewhere, in the cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if you have your recipes nailed down, his book is worth a read for its numerous helpful hints. Sketch out the pots and pans you'll need to cook each dish ahead of time, so you know what might be missing before you're elbow-deep in squash. Ditto laying out all the serving dishes and utensils on the dinner table a day or two beforehand. That way, you'll know, first, if they fit, and second, if you need to shop for (or borrow) an extra gravy boat, more serving spoons, or a bigger bowl for the mashed potatoes. (Plus, festive anticipation!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/homecooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/homecooking-185x290.jpg\" alt=\"Home Cooking: A Writer in the Kitchen by Laurie Colwin\" width=\"185\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-74114\">\u003c/a>Innumerable Thanksgivings across the land have been bettered by the Cornbread and Proscuitto Stuffing recipe detailed in \"Stuffing: A Confession\" in Laurie Colwin's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307474410/kqedorg-20\">Home Cooking,\u003c/a> and by the roast turkey, turkey jook, turkey salad, pecan-chestnut stuffing, and Cider Jelly in \"Turkey Angst\" and \"All the Trimmings\" from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060955317/kqedorg-20\">More Home Cooking.\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Colwin, a much-loved novelist who died in 1992, has an unmistakable voice: funny, chatty, warm, encouraging and confident that anyone who wants to can turn out a decent meal. Speaking from happy experience, I can attest that just about all her recipes can be made in a tiny kitchen, using garage-sale equipment, with a much greater payoff in pleasure than their humble ingredients might warrant at first glance.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/morehomecooking.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/morehomecooking-189x290.jpg\" alt=\"More Home Cooking by Laurie Colwin\" width=\"189\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-74116\">\u003c/a>My copies of her two books of essays-with-recipes are annotated, soup-splashed, and falling apart with love and use. When I go into new friends' homes and see their own battered versions, I know we'll be not only good friends but like-minded partners in the kitchen. As Colwin writes about her leftover turkey salad, studded with scallions and capers and dressed with lemon-spiked mayonnaise, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"You need not feel greedy if this turkey salad is consumed entirely by you. A person who bastes a turkey all day long on behalf of other people's holiday pleasure deserves it. This person is a \u003cem>saint,\u003c/em> and if she or he has finished off all the nicest turkey bits plus the last of the capers, tough darts. Turkey roasting's heroes deserve rewards.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Colwin's approach, sensible and unfussy, is a less profane version than cooking teacher Mary Risley's now-classic moment of Thanksgiving reassurance, \u003cstrong>Just Put the F*cking Turkey in the Oven\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/foA0MGUbYH0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/foA0MGUbYH0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if the thought of cooking that toddler-size carcass in the fridge is keeping you up at night, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0762444843/kqedorg-20\">Culinary Birds: The Ultimate Poultry Cookbook\u003c/a> will calm you down more effectively than chug-a-lugging the Pinot on Thursday morning. Longtime wine country chef, culinary instructor and cookbook author John Ash breaks down all the basics you need to know to get your bird on the table browned, juicy, and ready for carving. He offers two main Thanksgiving-classic recipes: \u003cstrong>Roast Turkey with herb gravy\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Smoked Turkey on the Grill\u003c/strong> (recipe below), both brined in a salt solution flavored with maple syrup, fresh ginger, soy sauce, and garlic. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/TG-bookcover.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/TG-bookcover.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary Birds: The Ultimate Poultry Cookbook by John Ash. Photo: Jessica Nicosia-Nadler\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-74107\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Smoked Turkey on the Grill\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reprinted with permission from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0762444843/kqedorg-20\">Culinary Birds\u003c/a> by John Ash, Running Press 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll need a barbecue with a tight cover so that you can control the amount of oxygen and heat. To maximize the flavor and moisture, brine the bird first, then select a good hardwood to use as the smoking medium. You can find them in various sizes from sawdust to small chips to chunks. They all work. Hickory and oak are probably the most commonly available, but also look for fruit woods such as apple, pear, cherry, walnut, or pecan. You will need a good thermometer. I prefer the digital version, which you can leave in the bird the entire time. Use the indirect method described in the recipe and be sure to regulate the heat so that the bird doesn’t cook too quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The following recipe makes a gallon or so of brine, which should be plenty for a 12- to 14-pound turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>MAKES 12 SERVINGS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups (400g) packed brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (250g) pure maple syrup\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup (170g) coarse salt\u003cbr>\n3 whole heads garlic, cloves separated and bruised\u003cbr>\n6 large bay leaves\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups (144g) coarsely chopped unpeeled fresh ginger\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons dried red chili flakes\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups (350mL) soy sauce\u003cbr>\n3 quarts (2.85L) water\u003cbr>\n12- to 14-pound (5.4 to 6.3kg) dressed fresh turkey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Combine all the ingredients except the turkey in a large enamel or stainless steel stockpot that is large enough to hold the brine and the turkey. Bring to a simmer and then remove from the heat and allow to cool thoroughly. Rinse the turkey well; remove the neck and giblets, and save them for stock or discard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Submerge the turkey in the cooled brine. Be sure there is enough brine to cover the bird. If not, add water to cover. Refrigerate for at least 2 days and up to 4. Turn the bird in the brine twice a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Remove the bird from the brine and pat dry. Lightly brush the bird with olive oil and set aside. Prepare the barbecue by lighting 24 charcoal briquettes (preferably in a chimney starter). When hot and spotted gray, divide the briquettes in half and push to opposite sides of the grate. Place a metal drip pan that is at least 1 inch deep in the center with the hot coals on either side. The pan should be large enough to catch the drips from anywhere on the turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place a half cup or so of the wood smoking chips in the center of a double layer of heavy duty foil cut approximately 10 inches square. Form the foil into a ball shape and poke some holes in it. Place on top of one of the mounds of hot coals*.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Put the upper rack of the barbecue in place and then center the turkey on the rack over the drip pan. Cover the barbecue and partially close the air vents to restrict the oxygen (but not so much so that you put out the coals). Within a few minutes, the wood chips should start smoking. Regulate the vents to keep the chips smoking and the coals slowly burning. Check every 25 minutes or so to make sure the coals are still hot and smoke is continuing. Add charcoal and additional chips as needed. The internal temperature of the barbecue should be in the 275°F to 300°F range.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Keep the smoke going for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. After that, remove any remaining wood chips and continue cooking without smoke until the bird is done. This ensures that the turkey will not be too smoky in flavor, but you can adjust to taste. The total cooking time for a 12- to 14-pound bird will be approximately 3 to 3 1/2 hours. The internal temperature of the bird should be 165°F when tested at the thickest part of the thigh or breast. Make sure the thermometer is not touching bone. You can also test by cutting a little incision at the leg-thigh joint and making sure the meat is cooked and juices run clear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Remove the turkey from the barbecue and allow it to rest at least 30 minutes before carving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Alternatively, you can use a small 6-inch cast iron skillet to hold the wood chips. Look at garage sales and keep it for this purpose.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/73893/talking-turkey-part-2-tips-and-techniques-for-cooking-your-thanksgiving-bird","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_12694","bayareabites_3217","bayareabites_12120","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_543"],"featImg":"bayareabites_74108","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_73876":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_73876","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"73876","score":null,"sort":[1384442031000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"thanksgiving-recipe-oh-so-decadent-wild-mushroom-gravy","title":"Thanksgiving Recipe: Oh-So-Decadent Wild Mushroom Gravy","publishDate":1384442031,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Thanksgiving Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":15012,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73894\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m a bit of a purist when it comes to Thanksgiving. I want the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the mashed potatoes, the yams, and of course, The Gravy (don’t worry, in addition to this starch-fest there are plenty of green veggies thrown in, but those tend to change year to year). Gravy just takes all of this over the top and makes it oh-so-decadent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can easily make this vegan by subbing olive oil for the butter and using vegetable stock. You can even make this gluten-free by swapping out the all-purpose flour for sweet rice flour. If you’d like a less chunky gravy just stick an immersion blender into it at the end and whiz away to your desired level of smoothness; run it through a sieve if you really want it to be smooth, you’ll still retain all that delicious flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73899\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\" alt=\"Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Wild Mushroom Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 small yellow onion, very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1 carrot, peeled and very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n10 ounces mixed wild or cultivated mushrooms, such as porcini, trumpet, maitake, matsutake, chanterelle, and/or cremini, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves\u003cbr>\nOlive oil\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup dry sherry\u003cbr>\nAbout 2 1/2 cups turkey, chicken, or vegetable stock, plus more as needed to thin the gravy to your desired consistency\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add the onion and carrot and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, thyme, a glug of olive oil, and a pinch of salt and sauté, stirring, until the mushrooms release their juices, become tender, and the juices mostly evaporate, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Add the flour, whisking to remove any lumps. Slowly add the sherry, stirring, until smooth. Slowly add the stock, stirring, until smooth. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then return the mushroom mixture to the saucepan, stirring to combine. Simmer until the flavors come together, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73908,73909,73913,73910,73911,73912,73914,73915,73916,73920,73922,73899\"]\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1571963569,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":10,"wordCount":488},"headData":{"title":"Thanksgiving Recipe: Oh-So-Decadent Wild Mushroom Gravy | KQED","description":"Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Thanksgiving Recipe: Oh-So-Decadent Wild Mushroom Gravy","datePublished":"2013-11-14T15:13:51.000Z","dateModified":"2019-10-25T00:32:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"73876 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=73876","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/14/thanksgiving-recipe-oh-so-decadent-wild-mushroom-gravy/","disqusTitle":"Thanksgiving Recipe: Oh-So-Decadent Wild Mushroom Gravy","path":"/bayareabites/73876/thanksgiving-recipe-oh-so-decadent-wild-mushroom-gravy","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73894\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73894\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushrooms1.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Wild Mushroom gravy: trumpets, maitakes, thyme, carrots, onion. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m a bit of a purist when it comes to Thanksgiving. I want the turkey, the stuffing, the cranberry sauce, the mashed potatoes, the yams, and of course, The Gravy (don’t worry, in addition to this starch-fest there are plenty of green veggies thrown in, but those tend to change year to year). Gravy just takes all of this over the top and makes it oh-so-decadent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Generally, I make my gravy at the last minute, using drippings from the turkey along with the turkey stock I’ve bubbled away for hours and the shredded meat from the neck. But I thought I’d switch it up and offer a new option: wild mushroom gravy. This is a simple but chunky gravy, full of the deep richness of mushrooms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can easily make this vegan by subbing olive oil for the butter and using vegetable stock. You can even make this gluten-free by swapping out the all-purpose flour for sweet rice flour. If you’d like a less chunky gravy just stick an immersion blender into it at the end and whiz away to your desired level of smoothness; run it through a sieve if you really want it to be smooth, you’ll still retain all that delicious flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73899\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mushroom-gravy-final.jpg\" alt=\"Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild Mushroom Gravy. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Wild Mushroom Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1 small yellow onion, very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1 carrot, peeled and very finely chopped\u003cbr>\n10 ounces mixed wild or cultivated mushrooms, such as porcini, trumpet, maitake, matsutake, chanterelle, and/or cremini, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves\u003cbr>\nOlive oil\u003cbr>\nKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup flour\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup dry sherry\u003cbr>\nAbout 2 1/2 cups turkey, chicken, or vegetable stock, plus more as needed to thin the gravy to your desired consistency\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter. Add the onion and carrot and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, thyme, a glug of olive oil, and a pinch of salt and sauté, stirring, until the mushrooms release their juices, become tender, and the juices mostly evaporate, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Add the flour, whisking to remove any lumps. Slowly add the sherry, stirring, until smooth. Slowly add the stock, stirring, until smooth. Simmer for about 5 minutes, then return the mushroom mixture to the saucepan, stirring to combine. Simmer until the flavors come together, about 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"file","ids":"73908,73909,73913,73910,73911,73912,73914,73915,73916,73920,73922,73899","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/73876/thanksgiving-recipe-oh-so-decadent-wild-mushroom-gravy","authors":["5015","5014"],"series":["bayareabites_15012"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10851","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12694","bayareabites_873","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_2962","bayareabites_543","bayareabites_12688","bayareabites_12689"],"featImg":"bayareabites_73895","label":"bayareabites_15012"},"bayareabites_72447":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_72447","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"72447","score":null,"sort":[1384357477000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"deconstructed-turkey-a-succulent-alternative-to-a-thanksgiving-classic","title":"Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic","publishDate":1384357477,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Thanksgiving Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":15012,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73816\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73816\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For as long as I can remember, I’ve played a big role in preparing Thanksgiving dinner for both family and friends. Growing up, we did turkey the way most folks did: stuff it, throw it in the oven, and roast it until the little plastic doo-hickey popped out. As I got older, and my culinary sense of adventure grew and matured, I started brining the turkey. Then one year, this was maybe 10 years ago or more, we got really crazy and threw the brined bird on the grill, slow grill-roasting and smoking it to a mahogany red.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73823\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"The raw \" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The raw \"petite\" turkey ready to be deconstructed. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After a number of years on Thanksgiving hiatus (due to the fact that we were traveling abroad), I finally found myself back home last year, and I couldn’t wait to host my first Thanksgiving in our new house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided to take the entire thing on myself, something I’d not done for many years, and I was ready to do something new. So in that spirit, I thought I’d try a whole new and slightly blasphemous approach: I would dismantle the turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a new idea, it was actually suggested to me a few years back by a close friend who is also an amazing chef. The idea is simple. White meat and dark meat simply don’t cook at the same rate, so why not treat them the way they want to be treated? Braise the dark meat until it’s falling-off-the-bone-tender and roast the breast meat just long enough to keep it tender and juicy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, I’d fallen into the brining camp years ago, but due to the lack of space for putting a whole 15-lb turkey into a vat of brining liquid, I decided to dry-brine the turkey by rubbing each part down with kosher salt and letting it wallow in the salt for a few days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results were incredible. Not only was I able to braise the legs early in the day and just warm the meat right before we sat down, but the breast took no time at all – a mere hour – and took up far less oven space than an entire turkey. It was also the very first time that every scrap of dark meat was devoured that very same night, something I’d never witnessed in all my years of turkey baking/roasting/grilling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Deconstructed Turkey & Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 10–12 with leftovers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>15 lb turkey, ideally organic*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 large yellow onions, 1 diced and 1 cut into large chunks (skins reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 stalks celery, 2 diced and 2 cut into large chunks (trimmed tops reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 3–4 tbsp kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large carrot, peeled and diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup dry white wine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups turkey stock or low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, plus more if needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Using a sharp knife or poultry shears, separate the legs and thighs from the breast and wing section. Remove the backbone and set aside. Rub the leg/thigh and breast sections all over (including under the skin) with kosher salt. Place the turkey pieces on a rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. If the turkey pieces don’t fit all on the baking sheet, put the breast section into a deep mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap before refrigerating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73828,73829,73830,73831,73832,73833,73834,73836,73838,73839,73841,73840\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, to make turkey stock, add the reserved backbone plus the neck, onion chunks and skins, and celery chunks and trimmed celery tops to a stockpot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, cover partially, and simmer for about 3 hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To braise the legs and thighs:\u003c/strong> Preheat the oven to 300°F. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels. In a large, heavy Dutch oven, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the thighs and drumsticks and sear until well browned all over, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the onion, celery, and carrot to the Dutch oven. Saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer about 5 minutes. Return the thighs and drumsticks to the Dutch oven and add about 4 cups of the turkey stock. Bring to a slow boil, then cover and place in the oven. Cook until the turkey is very tender, turning once about halfway through, about 1 hour. Transfer the turkey to a platter to cool. Strain the braising liquid and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73846,73847,73848,73849,73850,73851,73852,73853,73854,73855,73856,73857,73858,73859,73860\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>When the turkey is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the thighs and roughly shred. Return the drumsticks and thigh meat to the Dutch oven, moisten with some of the braising liquid, and set aside until ready to eat (or re-warm the meat in the oven before eating). Reserve the remaining braising liquid to make the pan gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To roast the turkey breast:\u003c/strong> Remove the turkey breast from the refrigerator about 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Pat the turkey breast dry with paper towels. Spread some of the butter under the turkey breast skin along with the chopped thyme. Spread the remaining butter over the skin, all over the turkey.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the turkey breast in a heavy cast-iron skillet just big enough to fit it snugly (I used a 12-inch pan). Place in the oven and roast the turkey breast for about 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F. Roast for about 1 hour, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 150°–160°F. Transfer the breast to a cutting board and let rest for about 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make pan gravy, over medium heat, add the flour to the drippings in the skillet, whisking to remove any lumps. Add some butter if you need more fat. Slowly add the reserved braising liquid, stirring, until smooth. Add more broth if needed to thin the gravy slightly. (\u003cem>not pictured\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the breast meat from the turkey carcass, and slice across the grain. Serve with the dark meat and drumsticks, and the gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"73863,73864,73865,73866,73867,73868\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>A note on the turkey you see in this post:\u003c/em> I jumped through hoops to get a turkey for this post, but after one snafu after another I ended up with a very tiny turkey (labeled “petite”) that almost looks like a chicken. This recipe is actually for a 15-pounder, but you can use anything from about 10 lbs up to 15 lbs.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1571963584,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1297},"headData":{"title":"Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic | KQED","description":"Perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic","datePublished":"2013-11-13T15:44:37.000Z","dateModified":"2019-10-25T00:33:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"72447 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=72447","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/13/deconstructed-turkey-a-succulent-alternative-to-a-thanksgiving-classic/","disqusTitle":"Deconstructed Turkey: A Succulent Alternative to a Thanksgiving Classic","path":"/bayareabites/72447/deconstructed-turkey-a-succulent-alternative-to-a-thanksgiving-classic","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73816\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73816\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/deconstructed-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deconstructed Turkey. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All Photos:\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">\u003cem>Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For as long as I can remember, I’ve played a big role in preparing Thanksgiving dinner for both family and friends. Growing up, we did turkey the way most folks did: stuff it, throw it in the oven, and roast it until the little plastic doo-hickey popped out. As I got older, and my culinary sense of adventure grew and matured, I started brining the turkey. Then one year, this was maybe 10 years ago or more, we got really crazy and threw the brined bird on the grill, slow grill-roasting and smoking it to a mahogany red.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-73823\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/raw-turkey1000.jpg\" alt=\"The raw \" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The raw \"petite\" turkey ready to be deconstructed. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After a number of years on Thanksgiving hiatus (due to the fact that we were traveling abroad), I finally found myself back home last year, and I couldn’t wait to host my first Thanksgiving in our new house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I decided to take the entire thing on myself, something I’d not done for many years, and I was ready to do something new. So in that spirit, I thought I’d try a whole new and slightly blasphemous approach: I would dismantle the turkey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a new idea, it was actually suggested to me a few years back by a close friend who is also an amazing chef. The idea is simple. White meat and dark meat simply don’t cook at the same rate, so why not treat them the way they want to be treated? Braise the dark meat until it’s falling-off-the-bone-tender and roast the breast meat just long enough to keep it tender and juicy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, I’d fallen into the brining camp years ago, but due to the lack of space for putting a whole 15-lb turkey into a vat of brining liquid, I decided to dry-brine the turkey by rubbing each part down with kosher salt and letting it wallow in the salt for a few days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results were incredible. Not only was I able to braise the legs early in the day and just warm the meat right before we sat down, but the breast took no time at all – a mere hour – and took up far less oven space than an entire turkey. It was also the very first time that every scrap of dark meat was devoured that very same night, something I’d never witnessed in all my years of turkey baking/roasting/grilling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, perhaps it is unthinkable to sit down to your Thanksgiving dinner without the ceremony of bringing a whole golden brown bird to the table and carving it to applause. But if it’s succulent flavor you are after, you really can’t go wrong with this version.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Deconstructed Turkey & Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 10–12 with leftovers\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>15 lb turkey, ideally organic*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 large yellow onions, 1 diced and 1 cut into large chunks (skins reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 stalks celery, 2 diced and 2 cut into large chunks (trimmed tops reserved)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 3–4 tbsp kosher salt, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large carrot, peeled and diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup dry white wine\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cups turkey stock or low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened, plus more if needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Using a sharp knife or poultry shears, separate the legs and thighs from the breast and wing section. Remove the backbone and set aside. Rub the leg/thigh and breast sections all over (including under the skin) with kosher salt. Place the turkey pieces on a rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. If the turkey pieces don’t fit all on the baking sheet, put the breast section into a deep mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap before refrigerating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"file","ids":"73828,73829,73830,73831,73832,73833,73834,73836,73838,73839,73841,73840","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, to make turkey stock, add the reserved backbone plus the neck, onion chunks and skins, and celery chunks and trimmed celery tops to a stockpot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat, cover partially, and simmer for about 3 hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To braise the legs and thighs:\u003c/strong> Preheat the oven to 300°F. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels. In a large, heavy Dutch oven, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the thighs and drumsticks and sear until well browned all over, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the onion, celery, and carrot to the Dutch oven. Saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer about 5 minutes. Return the thighs and drumsticks to the Dutch oven and add about 4 cups of the turkey stock. Bring to a slow boil, then cover and place in the oven. Cook until the turkey is very tender, turning once about halfway through, about 1 hour. Transfer the turkey to a platter to cool. Strain the braising liquid and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"file","ids":"73846,73847,73848,73849,73850,73851,73852,73853,73854,73855,73856,73857,73858,73859,73860","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>When the turkey is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the thighs and roughly shred. Return the drumsticks and thigh meat to the Dutch oven, moisten with some of the braising liquid, and set aside until ready to eat (or re-warm the meat in the oven before eating). Reserve the remaining braising liquid to make the pan gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>To roast the turkey breast:\u003c/strong> Remove the turkey breast from the refrigerator about 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Pat the turkey breast dry with paper towels. Spread some of the butter under the turkey breast skin along with the chopped thyme. Spread the remaining butter over the skin, all over the turkey.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the turkey breast in a heavy cast-iron skillet just big enough to fit it snugly (I used a 12-inch pan). Place in the oven and roast the turkey breast for about 30 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F. Roast for about 1 hour, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 150°–160°F. Transfer the breast to a cutting board and let rest for about 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make pan gravy, over medium heat, add the flour to the drippings in the skillet, whisking to remove any lumps. Add some butter if you need more fat. Slowly add the reserved braising liquid, stirring, until smooth. Add more broth if needed to thin the gravy slightly. (\u003cem>not pictured\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the breast meat from the turkey carcass, and slice across the grain. Serve with the dark meat and drumsticks, and the gravy.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"file","ids":"73863,73864,73865,73866,73867,73868","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>A note on the turkey you see in this post:\u003c/em> I jumped through hoops to get a turkey for this post, but after one snafu after another I ended up with a very tiny turkey (labeled “petite”) that almost looks like a chicken. This recipe is actually for a 15-pounder, but you can use anything from about 10 lbs up to 15 lbs.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/72447/deconstructed-turkey-a-succulent-alternative-to-a-thanksgiving-classic","authors":["5015","5014"],"series":["bayareabites_15012"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10851","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12694","bayareabites_10278","bayareabites_873","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_2962","bayareabites_543"],"featImg":"bayareabites_73872","label":"bayareabites_15012"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. 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