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Cheers!\u003c/p>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a65d07ea1835bde4c52ca144f9269930?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Trevor Felch | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a65d07ea1835bde4c52ca144f9269930?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a65d07ea1835bde4c52ca144f9269930?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/trevorfelch"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_126767":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_126767","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"126767","score":null,"sort":[1523810330000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination","title":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination","publishDate":1523810330,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530252096,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":40,"wordCount":3452},"headData":{"title":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination | KQED","description":"San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination","datePublished":"2018-04-15T16:38:50.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T06:01:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"126767 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=126767","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/04/15/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination/","disqusTitle":"Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination","path":"/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>San Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The French Laundry has its salmon tartare cornets. Benu wows every guest with lobster coral xiao long bao. Saison presents diners with an ethereal sea urchin-topped slice of grilled bread each evening when the precious uni is in season. Chef Rodney Wages’ showstopper of a dish, simply called ‘tortellini en brodo,’ packs an equally profound wallop in the same rapid series of powerful flavors as those Northern California hall of fame dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126802\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1949-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, hold on a second. Wages’ debut full-time restaurant, Avery, was just unveiled to the shark-infested waters of the discerning SF dining public and can’t be and shouldn’t be talked about in the same ways as those world-renowned legends at such a young age. However, that signature dish of his pop-up, R.T.B., lives on as a new and defining few bites and spoonfuls at the pop-up’s brick and mortar personality, Avery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish is a remarkable creation in the same pleasurable “hammer you over the head with dense, unrelenting luxurious flavors” as those aforementioned tasting menu staples from the Bay Area’s top toques. Wages takes a rustic Bolognese classic and fills the petite-sized tortellini with cultured butter and mushrooms. Then he partners them with brined and smoked foie gras morsels that boast so much of the latter’s intensity you’d swear they were marinated with mezcal. Then the foie gras and tortellini float in a brodo based on garlic skins — a little seasonal California spark. Everything explodes with precise flavors — fat, umami, nuttiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the pop-up’s days, the dish saw a few different broths, often one based on grilled bacon that really amped up the smoky-rich-meaty profile, but has been tweaked for Avery. It likely will continue to evolve and may even leave the menu tomorrow. Or, it may stay on the menu for decades like Thomas Keller’s salmon cornets. Who knows? Wages is without question a chef and an artist — and artists never settle for anything. This work is just one of several masterpieces diners will encounter in Avery’s opening days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It shouldn’t be too surprising that there is an artistic angle to the restaurant — from Wages’ food on the delicate plates and ceramics procured from all over the world to the pristine, two-level space — because Avery’s namesake is the early to mid 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century American artist, \u003ca href=\"https://www.wikiart.org/en/milton-avery\">Milton Avery\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>R.T.B.’s namesake is the playful abbreviation for Wages’ given nickname from some fellow chefs: “Rod the Bod.” Avery, on the other hand, doesn’t have much of a personal connection. It’s not like Milton Avery is Wages’ artistic idol or that there is some deep meaning that opened his eyes to the world and Avery convinced him to be a chef. Wages and his business partner/Avery’s general manager, Matthew Mako, are fascinated by the artist’s intense color explorations and abstract presentations of nature and see similarities between that and their idea for Avery as an imaginative, high-end fine dining stripped down to a casual, relaxed experience. Plus, Avery is a short and sweet name and starts with “A.” So, there’s that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126931\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1512px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg\" alt=\"Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog.\" width=\"1512\" height=\"2048\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126931\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k.jpg 1512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-160x217.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-800x1084.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-768x1040.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1020x1382.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-886x1200.jpg 886w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-1180x1598.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-960x1300.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-240x325.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-375x508.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/40700623681_51679c84f6_k-520x704.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1512px) 100vw, 1512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matthew Mako and Chef Rodney Wages and his dog. \u003ccite>(Isabel Baer)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the SF pop-up world, there are chefs who came out of nowhere (Lazy Bear) and then there are the majority of the chefs who have worked their way up the ladder in the region’s best restaurants (Liholiho Yacht Club) and decided it’s time to do their own thing. Wages is squarely in the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef is a native of Kansas and much of his culinary vision can be credited to what is lacking across his home state’s prairies but is abundant in the Bay Area. Wages’ started restaurant cooking (and dishwashing) as a 15-year old in Leavenworth, Kansas, a town best known for its prison that housed Michael Vick for operating a dog-fighting ring and James Earl Ray a decade before he assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later in high school, Rodney helped those restaurant owners in Leavenworth open a fried chicken concept one town away and that’s when he acknowledges first seriously catching the cooking bug. He graduated from high school a semester early after seeing a cooking school ad in a newspaper and that led him to the Cordon Bleu school in Minneapolis. An internship at the French Laundry proved to be his golden ticket in the industry, spending four years moving around the kitchen in Yountville under its then-chef de cuisine Corey Lee (now chef-owner of Benu) before Wages left to help open (recently closed) RN74 in San Francisco. Wages credits a dinner that he cooked with Lee in Lee’s native Seoul, South Korea as opening his eyes to the techniques and ingredients of East Asian cuisines that was a key part of R.T.B’s style and now Avery’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages later joined Lee to open Benu and then delved deeper into East Asian cooking (specifically Japan) as chef de cuisine of Morimoto in Napa. He returned to San Francisco fine dining afterwards at Saison, where his name started popping up on “future chefs to watch” radars in the city after two and a half years at the SoMa fixture. That’s where he picked up a love for live-fire cooking — Saison’s signature style and one that occurs again and again at Avery. The chef briefly left the restaurant world to start his own caviar business but decided that cooking for diners is more of his style than selling to customers. So, it was off to Atelier Crenn for a year as chef de cuisine, where he learned more about the business side of restaurants by helping with communications and operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That can only mean one thing for highly talented San Francisco chefs — next stop: pop-up then permanent restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1759-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s staff comes mainly from those final two SF heavyweights on Wages’ resume. Chef de cuisine Kristina Compton was executive sous chef for Wages at Atelier Crenn. Sommelier Daniel Bromberg worked at Les Clos, a now closed wine bar sibling to Saison. Mako was a maître’d at Saison, in addition to working on the opening team at Benu where he met Wages. In short, it’s all in the family of SF tasting menu restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Compared to the likes of Saison, Benu and Atelier Crenn, Avery is a downright bargain. Of course, it’s a pricey night out but it’s not on the same level of credit card blowout as those peers. The “Cello Player” of seven to nine courses is $89 and the “Shades of Spring” featuring 10-15 courses is $189. Don’t worry, the longer menu will change its name each season. Yes, both menus are indeed named for works by Milton Avery. And, if you are seeking that next-level extravagant menu, then there’s always “Avery’s Room,” the private dining room with a $289 special menu for six to eight guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wages’ cooking falls into the category of lots of ‘kind ofs’ where it’s New American meets contemporary Californian and abstract modernism, with lots of live-fire cooking, some distinct influences from East Asian cuisines and a few hints of European classics tossed in. Confused? Yes, so let’s bypass the labels and sum it up as a deeply personal, highly stylized and very ambitious style of cooking that originates from California’s seasons and covers a wide spectrum of concepts from there, led by live-fire grilling and East Asia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similar to R.T.B., the menu descriptions are what you might call \u003cem>simple\u003c/em>. There are no shout outs to the farms of Bolinas and in-depth lists of the sauce ingredients. The ‘tortellini en brodo’ is called just that and resides in the middle of both hand-written menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menus will constantly change but, for now, a broth with grains starts both menus. A few dishes from the longer menu, like ‘caviar,’ ‘jamon Iberico,’ ‘Fort Bragg sea urchin’ and ‘snow beef’ made from Wagyu, are offered as supplements on the $89 menu. Otherwise, they have the same core dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone will enjoy a golden spoonful of smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame. It arrives paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi, that might be sea bream one night and kanpachi on the next night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126776\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126776\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7676-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked trout roe hiding an aioli-like concoction made of whipped avocado and sesame \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126775\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126775\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7675-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paired with ‘raw,’ some delicate sashimi \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oysters and aebleskivers come next. It’s not a natural pairing of two dishes being served together but should be. Each oyster is slightly charred to the point of being raw and smoky, joining grilled asparagus and grilled ramps in a French-inspired white wine broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126779\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7698-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oysters \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>‘Aebleskivers’ are Danish doughnut holes or beignets, often served in the traditional sphere-shape and adorned with various glazes or stuffed with fillings. For the world’s gastronomic jet set crowd, aebleskivers are known as a photogenic and frequent staple at Noma in Copenhagen, filled with a tiny fish called \u003cem>muikko\u003c/em> with the head and tail poking out both ends. Wages one-ups Redzepi’s aebleskiver creativity with a labor intensive version based on an egg-enriched batter that fluffs up into a shape and consistency like a Parker House roll. It’s filled with diced broccoli that has been blanched in a seaweed broth and grilled with onion butter, then joins garlic puree in the center of the orbs. Then the orbs are topped with garlic mayonnaise, fried shrimp and charred scallions, completing a bread-crispy seafood-mayonnaise trifecta that is as much an example of Japanese takoyaki as it is a stylized Danish doughnut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126778\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Aebleskivers\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126778\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7693-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aebleskivers \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jumping from France and Denmark to Southeast Asia, the seafaring dishes continue with a ‘lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil. Again, the seafood of choice is ever so lightly grilled and chopped into minute pieces, ready to be enjoyed spoonful by spoonful with ‘bamboo rice’ and lentils.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg\" alt=\"'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7701-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Lobster curry’ fortified by Thai spices, yogurt and coconut oil \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then comes the ‘tortellini en brodo,’ followed by ‘Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline. Lamb from Mendocino comes in two forms — raw tenderloin draped over wild nettles and morel mushrooms; and belly that is heavily charred to the point of almost bacon. Abalone with seaweed and coastal greens rounds out the dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tortellini en brodo\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7709-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tortellini en brodo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg\" alt=\"Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7722-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">'Northern coast,’ an abstract surf and turf ode to our San Francisco to Eureka coastline \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s cheese course isn’t just a cart wheeled out and served with compotes and toast. It’s actually a cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison, a bloomy-rind cheese wrapped in spruce bark from the esteemed Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. ‘Cake’ and an ice cream course (sometimes made with foie gras at R.T.B.) complete the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126777\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126777\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7690-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese-pecan pie tart, where a buckwheat shell houses a layer of pecan pie filling accented with honey mustard and topped with Harbison \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As mentioned before, Wages’ cooking style doesn’t always showcase East Asia flavors but several dishes do as shown above. On cue, the food’s main drinking partner will be sake from an extensive list created by Bromberg. He is an esteemed sake sommelier who helped launch SF’s go-to sake boutique, TrueSake in Hayes Valley, and even interned at Dassai, a sake brewery in Yamaguchi, Japan. His sake roster opens with 50 labels and will eventually grow to over 100 — a rarity in this city at non-expense account sushi and kaiseki restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sake in wine cellar at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126774\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1724-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sake in wine cellar at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no better opportunity in San Francisco to explore aged sakes and the whole flavor spectrum of sake — from\u003cem> nama\u003c/em> (unpasteurized) to pure, premium \u003cem>daiginjo\u003c/em> — than what Bromberg presents at Avery, especially if you opt for the sake-only pairing (the same price as the tasting menus). Wine lovers, don’t worry — Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery. Of course, there are also plenty of impressive New World and Old World bottles and glass pours to accompany dinner, along with a mixed drinks (wine, beer, sake and sparkling wine) pairing also for either $89 or $189.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg\" alt=\"Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1693-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Champagne is the other main beverage specialty at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>R.T.B’s home for the latter stages of its pop-up is now where Avery resides, at a prominent position on Fillmore by Geary that’s mainly known as being the Block of State Bird Provisions. The space previously was another tasting menu restaurant, Mosu, that opened as exclusively a $198 tasting menu and became a gentrification symbol much in the same way as Google buses. Diners (other than \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/When-new-restaurants-push-the-price-too-far-too-8380503.php\">one prominent critic\u003c/a>) felt the food was indeed spectacular (this writer was in that camp) but the space was austere and simple to the point of almost seeming too harsh for appreciating such complex food. Mosu’s chef-owner, Sung Anh, has moved on to open a concept in Seoul and this opportunity presented itself for Wages. There is a definite connection of why this hand off took place so seamlessly compared to most SF restaurant changes. The two worked together at the French Laundry under Corey Lee and Wages considers Sung a mentor. Compton also was a sous chef for Sung during Mosu’s one-year run.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco-based designer Noz Nozawa of \u003ca href=\"http://nozdesign.co/xz8dmu6fydhlbarrtb4bhxdv75t6bs\">Noz Design\u003c/a> reinvigorated the Mosu interior, with the help of Wages and Mako, keeping the same semi-hidden upstairs-downstairs set-up that makes the space somewhat quirky and like dining in a loft with bunk bed-style dining rooms. The entryway has no second story, giving off a grand welcome with the frosted floor to ceiling windows streaming in sunlight but blocking out the Fillmore street activity. A screen-like, semi-secret black wall blocks off the ground floor’s ten seats from the door, adding intrigue to the downstairs dining area where the longer tasting menu is served. The screen-like wall rises to the ceiling and also provides a pseudo-hidden feel for the upstairs dining area where 16 diners can enjoy the shorter tasting menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area at Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1843-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Avery’s two levels are attached by a stairway to the left side of the front door and the immaculate kitchen is attached to the downstairs dining room and appears in clear view with no walls or doors, in the rear of the space. A private dining room, called “Avery’s Room,” is right above the kitchen on the second floor. It’s there that you’ll find some of the wine collection in a gorgeous cellar, ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator, and all sorts of minute design elements like…Corey Lee’s Benu cookbook and some books on Milton Avery paintings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg\" alt='Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Private dining area \"Avery’s Room\" with wine cellar upstairs at Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126772\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg\" alt=\" Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in refrigerator\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126772\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1683-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ducks and lamb bones dry aging and vegetables pickling in a refrigerator \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Much of the interior’s look is inspired by the earth and sea, bringing together bold swaths of charcoal black, teal and deep green that combine for a design motif that does actually seem to be one part ocean, one part forest and one part stark modernism. Chic black banquettes and bare black tables simply adorned with shell-like candle spheres and tiny plants in coral-like miniature pots serve as a contemporary juxtaposition to the retro, almost “Mad Men” era-evoking white chairs with delightfully oversized backs designed by the legendary Italian firm, Calligaris. Soft, gray mohair blankets on the banquettes invite cozying up, which some diners might be tempted by after course eight and the third glass of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, make sure to look up to appreciate the dramatic light fixtures and the skylight in the Avery room, along with looking down to see the elegant patterned carpeting that can look like tide pools along the coast from certain angles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of this design talk, let’s not get ahead of ourselves — the striking interior elements in the two dining spaces are most certainly the custom Venetian plaster wall treatments with murals by \u003ca href=\"http://<a%20href=\" https:>San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\u003c/a>. They’re so impressive that there is a museum-like label and description of the work in the alcove between the downstairs dining room and the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg\" alt=\"Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1739-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Upstairs dining area at Avery with Venetian plaster wall treatments by San Francisco-based artist Victor Reyes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Growing up in Milwaukee and Orange County, Reyes was inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.francis-bacon.com/paintings\">Francis Bacon\u003c/a>’s provocatively dark, yet beautiful works and eventually that led Reyes to become an artist — a graffiti artist, that is. Reyes’ outdoor art and murals really got noticed after his move to San Francisco and a project of painting each letter of the alphabet in the Mission. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, he has received lots of attention and praise for his fascinating artistic sense of exploration and pursuit of mystery through breaking down recognizable objects. Like most modern art, everyone will have their own opinion of what the dining room mural is presenting but there’s no doubt that the sweeping brushes of sea blue against the pale plaster call to mind ocean waves (there’s the earth and sea element, again) and a gritty edge to the elegance provided by luxurious glassware and the finest ingredients on the table. Dare we say, it’s almost a little like a work Avery might do?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, the restaurant’s look is a thrilling, eloquent clash of the unfinished and the refined, the industrial and the polished — something we’ve seen for two decades at bistros, bars and gastropubs and we’re seeing more and more of at higher-end restaurants (see: Benu). Avery has hip hop on the soundtrack, exposed pipes running along the ceiling and plenty of jamon Iberico, foie gras and smoked trout roe for the crowd — yes, the days of Masa’s and Ernie’s are over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also plans for an investor to bring in an actual Avery painting to be a part of the interior design, so stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re certainly starting to see culinary art literally work together with visual art. It’s an exciting direction for dining to go towards. Remember, it was Corey Lee who brought an innovative restaurant concept, In Situ, to SF MoMA. Now the roles are reversed — the restaurant welcomes the art museum — or, at least is welcoming the artist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, isn’t the best kind of art the edible kind? Don’t we all wish we could take a bite out of the still lifes by Cézanne? Well, this art at Avery is very edible and each tasting menu is as striking as the restaurant namesake’s portfolio of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Avery\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_1836-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Avery \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.averysf.com\">\u003cstrong>Avery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1552 Fillmore St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/RTB+Fillmore/@37.7840602,-122.434765,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80858062edd49d5f:0xd5dacdc7799506e!8m2!3d37.784056!4d-122.432571\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94116\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 817-1187\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Wed–Sun from 5:30pm-9:30pm; closed Monday and Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/averyinsf/\">Avery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/avery_sf/\">@avery_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$ (tasting menus begin at $89 per person)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination","authors":["11338","5014"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_10249","bayareabites_16101","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_16102","bayareabites_10086","bayareabites_9856"],"featImg":"bayareabites_126786","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_34758":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_34758","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"34758","score":null,"sort":[1320437445000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"benu-a-meditative-meal","title":"Benu: A Meditative Meal","publishDate":1320437445,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744-e1319763520596.jpg\" alt=\"eel\" title=\"eel\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34767\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never been to \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\" title=\"The French Laundry\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>. Ever since my love for food evolved from outings to the Olive Garden to a lovely dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" title=\"Oliveto\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, it has represented to me the pinnacle of haute cuisine in America. Several years ago, when I happened to be spending the day in Yountville with an ex-boyfriend, I asked him to slowly drive past the restaurant in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the chef (as we weren't able to get a reservation). And lo -- there he was, the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\" title=\"Thomas Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, standing in the bucolic backyard and chatting with one of his staff. I squealed loudly like a teenage groupie and my ex-boyfriend remarked, \"Well, I can't compete with that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still haven't been to the restaurant. But after dining tonight at Benu, I almost feel that I have -- through one of its gifted progeny. Keller's former chef de cuisine of 4 1/2 years, \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/corey-lee\" title=\"Benu\">Corey Lee\u003c/a>, is the creative force behind this remarkable restaurant. He's been receiving loads of press, with renowned New York City chef David Chang recently declaring Benu, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/10/05/benu-named-best-restaurant-in-america_n_996423.html\" title=\"best restaurant\">the best restaurant in America.\u003c/a>\" It's been open for a little over a year, and it's still possible to easily get a prime time reservation on a weeknight. (I'm sure that'll change as they were recently awarded with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2011/10/26/bloomberg_articlesLTN8921A74E9.DTL\" title=\"michelin stars\">two Michelin stars\u003c/a>.) With my friend Scott Spencer of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/01/the-cyclist-chef-a-look-inside-spencers-pantry/\" title=\"spencer's pantry\">Spencer's Pantry\u003c/a> in tow, we headed to Hawthorne Lane in SOMA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you pass through the gate that leads to Benu's stone courtyard, you pass by a glass door on the right that offers you a glimpse of the spotless kitchen that emanates the same calm zen quality as the restaurant itself. The staff seems unhurried, working intently on their dishes at their stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\" alt=\"benu kitchen\" title=\"benu kitchen\" width=\"499\" height=\"321\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34783\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing I noticed about the spare, modernist interior after we sat down (designed by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/richard-bloch\" title=\"richard bloch\">Richard Bloch\u003c/a>) was the muted, gray tonality of the space that was gently illuminated with a neutral, balanced light. It reminded me of walking into an art museum at dusk or that first moment before a play is about to begin, with the house lights gradually dimmed before the performance. There's a cool stillness that evokes more of a contemplative mood -- rather than a romantic one -- in its atmosphere. With higher-end fine dining, I'm accustomed to walking into hushed, dark spaces lit only by candlelight and the other patrons shrouded in darkness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758-e1319757572334.jpg\" alt=\"benu dining room\" title=\"benu dining room\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34777\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott and I knew beforehand that we were going to order the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tasting.pdf\" title=\"tasting menu at benu\">19-course tasting menu\u003c/a> ($180 / person, which the whole table must order together). Yes, 19 courses -- and spoiler alert: each one was exquisite. I won't go through the entire tasting menu -- which you can see in the slideshow below -- so I'll just review some of the highlights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The square black wooden tables, sans white tablecloths, offer an appealing backdrop that is both casual in its presentation yet still retains a formal quality. Each dish is served in a beautiful Korean ceramic vessel (made by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/kwangjuyo\" title=\"kwangjuyo\">KwangJuYo\u003c/a>, seemingly crafted with each course in mind as they complemented the ingredients perfectly.) And most of the courses were eaten with a small silver spoon that lay on a stone rest. The service was impeccable; each dish was brought out by a rotation of different servers -- a nice touch that added a punctuation of freshness to each course -- who described the ingredients and the best way to indulge in the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A single bite of oyster and pork belly that wonderfully melded together and was encapsulated in a sugar glass-like kimchi-infused wrapper was probably the most delightful thing I've ever eaten in my life. And to think that was only the second course; my mind was already blown by the combination of the crunchy kimchi glass giving way to the luscious oyster and pork belly in one rapturous, melt-in-your-mouth bite. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">Umami\u003c/a> overload. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\" alt=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" title=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" width=\"499\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34763\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you know those colorful \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krupuk\" title=\"shrimp chips\">shrimp chips\u003c/a> that sometimes accompany dishes at Asian restaurants? Benu reinvented this snack favorite with their \"salt-and-pepper squid\" dish by creating a large, peppery black chip topped with tender cubes of squid and jalapeno for a bit of a spicy kick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\" alt=\"salt and pepper squid\" title=\"salt and pepper squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34769\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there were the soup dumplings. Not just any soup dumplings, but \"foie gras xiao long bao.\" (I'll digress here for a moment and say that dumplings are one of the core elements of my being. I am obsessed with dumplings, to the point where I contemplated starting my own independent dumpling enterprise.) They arrived on an elegant white circular porcelain platter that's a nod to the steamed bamboo baskets commonly seen in Chinese restaurants. After taking a small bite to release the warm foie gras broth into the spoon, I slurped up the rich soup before eating the rest of the tender pork dumpling. I was rather forlorn that there were only two; it was over much too soon. (And I suppose, come \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-07/foie-gras-lovers-in-california-fall-victim-to-rights-of-ducks.html\" title=\"foie gras ban\">next July\u003c/a>, this dish will be off the menu.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750-e1319758113895.jpg\" alt=\"soup dumpling\" title=\"soup dumpling\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" -- like the kimchi glass earlier in the meal -- drew upon Chef Lee's Korean roots. One secret to creating tender Korean beef barbecue is to add pear to the traditional soy sauce, garlic, onions and scallions marinade to help tenderize the beef. And the succulent (and I'm guessing, sous vide-prepared) beef was heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761-e1319763061365.jpg\" alt=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" title=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34778\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire tasting menu unfolded like the four seasons, starting off with lighter bites and spring-like tastes, then ending with deeper, richer autumnal flavors towards the end. A gorgeous dessert of \"fig, white chocolate, balsamic vinegar, sake lees (the sediment leftover after rice is pressed to make the alcohol)\" resembled a delicate snowfall on a winter's day. It was accompanied with \"malted rice tea, pine nut, pine needle honey\"; you'd drink the sweet tea, then eat a soft custard at the bottom of the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\" alt=\"dessert\" title=\"dessert\" width=\"499\" height=\"312\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34780\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three hours later, at the end of our feast -- concluded with fine chocolates from \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/la-foret\" title=\"la foret\">Napa-based La Forêt Chocolate & Confections\u003c/a> -- Scott and I were in a state of serene bliss. The flawlessly executed dishes -- with several an homage to Asian home-cooking favorites -- inspired lively discussion between us about technique, ingredients, and our love of food. Benu is a temple to fine dining, and I will make another pilgrimage on another special occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com\" title=\"benu\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94105 \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/kykzj\">map\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n(415) 685-4860\u003cbr>\nFor parties of seven or more, contact Kathryn Douglass at (415) 685-4860 x116\u003cbr>\nDinner service only. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Benu-Restaurant/115962055103723\" title=\"Facebook\">Benu on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"I spent 3 hours reveling in the exquisite 19-course tasting menu at Benu, which was recently awarded with two Michelin stars.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1320437445,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1120},"headData":{"title":"Benu: A Meditative Meal | KQED","description":"I spent 3 hours reveling in the exquisite 19-course tasting menu at Benu, which was recently awarded with two Michelin stars.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Benu: A Meditative Meal","datePublished":"2011-11-04T20:10:45.000Z","dateModified":"2011-11-04T20:10:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"34758 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=34758","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/04/benu-a-meditative-meal/","disqusTitle":"Benu: A Meditative Meal","path":"/bayareabites/34758/benu-a-meditative-meal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150744-e1319763520596.jpg\" alt=\"eel\" title=\"eel\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34767\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never been to \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\" title=\"The French Laundry\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>. Ever since my love for food evolved from outings to the Olive Garden to a lovely dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" title=\"Oliveto\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, it has represented to me the pinnacle of haute cuisine in America. Several years ago, when I happened to be spending the day in Yountville with an ex-boyfriend, I asked him to slowly drive past the restaurant in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the chef (as we weren't able to get a reservation). And lo -- there he was, the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\" title=\"Thomas Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, standing in the bucolic backyard and chatting with one of his staff. I squealed loudly like a teenage groupie and my ex-boyfriend remarked, \"Well, I can't compete with that.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still haven't been to the restaurant. But after dining tonight at Benu, I almost feel that I have -- through one of its gifted progeny. Keller's former chef de cuisine of 4 1/2 years, \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/corey-lee\" title=\"Benu\">Corey Lee\u003c/a>, is the creative force behind this remarkable restaurant. He's been receiving loads of press, with renowned New York City chef David Chang recently declaring Benu, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/10/05/benu-named-best-restaurant-in-america_n_996423.html\" title=\"best restaurant\">the best restaurant in America.\u003c/a>\" It's been open for a little over a year, and it's still possible to easily get a prime time reservation on a weeknight. (I'm sure that'll change as they were recently awarded with \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/g/a/2011/10/26/bloomberg_articlesLTN8921A74E9.DTL\" title=\"michelin stars\">two Michelin stars\u003c/a>.) With my friend Scott Spencer of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/09/01/the-cyclist-chef-a-look-inside-spencers-pantry/\" title=\"spencer's pantry\">Spencer's Pantry\u003c/a> in tow, we headed to Hawthorne Lane in SOMA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you pass through the gate that leads to Benu's stone courtyard, you pass by a glass door on the right that offers you a glimpse of the spotless kitchen that emanates the same calm zen quality as the restaurant itself. The staff seems unhurried, working intently on their dishes at their stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150771-e1319736214190.jpg\" alt=\"benu kitchen\" title=\"benu kitchen\" width=\"499\" height=\"321\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34783\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing I noticed about the spare, modernist interior after we sat down (designed by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/richard-bloch\" title=\"richard bloch\">Richard Bloch\u003c/a>) was the muted, gray tonality of the space that was gently illuminated with a neutral, balanced light. It reminded me of walking into an art museum at dusk or that first moment before a play is about to begin, with the house lights gradually dimmed before the performance. There's a cool stillness that evokes more of a contemplative mood -- rather than a romantic one -- in its atmosphere. With higher-end fine dining, I'm accustomed to walking into hushed, dark spaces lit only by candlelight and the other patrons shrouded in darkness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150758-e1319757572334.jpg\" alt=\"benu dining room\" title=\"benu dining room\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34777\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott and I knew beforehand that we were going to order the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/tasting.pdf\" title=\"tasting menu at benu\">19-course tasting menu\u003c/a> ($180 / person, which the whole table must order together). Yes, 19 courses -- and spoiler alert: each one was exquisite. I won't go through the entire tasting menu -- which you can see in the slideshow below -- so I'll just review some of the highlights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The square black wooden tables, sans white tablecloths, offer an appealing backdrop that is both casual in its presentation yet still retains a formal quality. Each dish is served in a beautiful Korean ceramic vessel (made by \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/kwangjuyo\" title=\"kwangjuyo\">KwangJuYo\u003c/a>, seemingly crafted with each course in mind as they complemented the ingredients perfectly.) And most of the courses were eaten with a small silver spoon that lay on a stone rest. The service was impeccable; each dish was brought out by a rotation of different servers -- a nice touch that added a punctuation of freshness to each course -- who described the ingredients and the best way to indulge in the dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A single bite of oyster and pork belly that wonderfully melded together and was encapsulated in a sugar glass-like kimchi-infused wrapper was probably the most delightful thing I've ever eaten in my life. And to think that was only the second course; my mind was already blown by the combination of the crunchy kimchi glass giving way to the luscious oyster and pork belly in one rapturous, melt-in-your-mouth bite. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Umami\" title=\"umami\">Umami\u003c/a> overload. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150736-e1319757460537.jpg\" alt=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" title=\"oyster pork belly kimchi\" width=\"499\" height=\"339\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34763\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you know those colorful \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krupuk\" title=\"shrimp chips\">shrimp chips\u003c/a> that sometimes accompany dishes at Asian restaurants? Benu reinvented this snack favorite with their \"salt-and-pepper squid\" dish by creating a large, peppery black chip topped with tender cubes of squid and jalapeno for a bit of a spicy kick. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150746-e1319757145759.jpg\" alt=\"salt and pepper squid\" title=\"salt and pepper squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34769\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there were the soup dumplings. Not just any soup dumplings, but \"foie gras xiao long bao.\" (I'll digress here for a moment and say that dumplings are one of the core elements of my being. I am obsessed with dumplings, to the point where I contemplated starting my own independent dumpling enterprise.) They arrived on an elegant white circular porcelain platter that's a nod to the steamed bamboo baskets commonly seen in Chinese restaurants. After taking a small bite to release the warm foie gras broth into the spoon, I slurped up the rich soup before eating the rest of the tender pork dumpling. I was rather forlorn that there were only two; it was over much too soon. (And I suppose, come \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-09-07/foie-gras-lovers-in-california-fall-victim-to-rights-of-ducks.html\" title=\"foie gras ban\">next July\u003c/a>, this dish will be off the menu.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150750-e1319758113895.jpg\" alt=\"soup dumpling\" title=\"soup dumpling\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34771\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" -- like the kimchi glass earlier in the meal -- drew upon Chef Lee's Korean roots. One secret to creating tender Korean beef barbecue is to add pear to the traditional soy sauce, garlic, onions and scallions marinade to help tenderize the beef. And the succulent (and I'm guessing, sous vide-prepared) beef was heavenly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150761-e1319763061365.jpg\" alt=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" title=\"beef braised in pear, beech mushroom, sunflower seeds and leaves\" width=\"499\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34778\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The entire tasting menu unfolded like the four seasons, starting off with lighter bites and spring-like tastes, then ending with deeper, richer autumnal flavors towards the end. A gorgeous dessert of \"fig, white chocolate, balsamic vinegar, sake lees (the sediment leftover after rice is pressed to make the alcohol)\" resembled a delicate snowfall on a winter's day. It was accompanied with \"malted rice tea, pine nut, pine needle honey\"; you'd drink the sweet tea, then eat a soft custard at the bottom of the glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/P1150763-e1319759843887.jpg\" alt=\"dessert\" title=\"dessert\" width=\"499\" height=\"312\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34780\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three hours later, at the end of our feast -- concluded with fine chocolates from \u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com/la-foret\" title=\"la foret\">Napa-based La Forêt Chocolate & Confections\u003c/a> -- Scott and I were in a state of serene bliss. The flawlessly executed dishes -- with several an homage to Asian home-cooking favorites -- inspired lively discussion between us about technique, ingredients, and our love of food. Benu is a temple to fine dining, and I will make another pilgrimage on another special occasion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://benusf.com\" title=\"benu\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n22 Hawthorne Street\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco CA 94105 \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://g.co/maps/kykzj\">map\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n(415) 685-4860\u003cbr>\nFor parties of seven or more, contact Kathryn Douglass at (415) 685-4860 x116\u003cbr>\nDinner service only. Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30pm to 9:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Benu-Restaurant/115962055103723\" title=\"Facebook\">Benu on Facebook\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=109615\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627863822111%2F&set_id=72157627863822111&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/34758/benu-a-meditative-meal","authors":["2100"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9366","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_8497","bayareabites_494","bayareabites_9855","bayareabites_9525","bayareabites_9856","bayareabites_286"],"featImg":"bayareabites_34767","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_22474":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_22474","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"22474","score":null,"sort":[1296658838000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"happy-chinese-new-year-%e2%80%93-eat-well-and-prosper","title":"Happy Chinese New Year – Eat Well and Prosper","publishDate":1296658838,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chinese-lessons.com/sounds/cantonese/culture/gungheifaatchoih.mp3\">Gung Hay Fat Choy\u003c/a>! \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/27/food-and-wine-this-week-chinese-new-year/\">Happy Chinese New Year\u003c/a>, everyone! Tomorrow marks the start of the \u003cstrong>Year of the Rabbit\u003c/strong>, which means that celebrants of this Lunar New Year festival all over the world will be gathering with family, feasting on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/10/chinese-new-year-feast/\">lucky dishes\u003c/a>, and adorning their homes with fresh flowers and red decorations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who are into astrology and fun stuff like that, people born under the sign of the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_Zodiac\">Rabbit\u003c/a> are said to be gracious, calm-natured, amiable, intuitive, compassionate, and appreciative of the aesthetic and beautiful in life (among a myriad of other \"attributes\"). \u003cstrong>James Beard\u003c/strong> (born 1903) was a rabbit, \u003cstrong>Michael Ruhlman\u003c/strong> (born 1963) is a rabbit, as is \u003cstrong>Jamie Oliver\u003c/strong> (born 1975). Fortunetellers' \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/n/a/2011/01/28/international/i172726S77.DTL&type=living\">predictions\u003c/a> for this year are tumultuous, it won't put a damper on the festivities. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.chineseparade.com/\">Chinese New Year Parade\u003c/a> in San Francisco will take place Saturday 2/19, 5:15–8:00 pm (Market and Second Street to Kearny and Jackson; here's the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chineseparade.com/route.asp\">parade route\u003c/a>). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you've worked up an appetite, lion dancing and such, continue celebrating with some good \u003cstrong>Chinese Eats\u003c/strong>. Here are a few standout dishes that will have firecrackers going off in your mouth: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1) Egg Tarts (Golden Gate Bakery)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/don-tat-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/don-tat-1.jpg\" alt=\"Egg Tarts (don tat), Golden Gate Bakery\" title=\"Egg Tarts (don tat), Golden Gate Bakery\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22477\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Egg Tarts (don tat), Golden Gate Bakery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/king-sized-egg-custard-tart-dai-don-tot/\">Egg Tarts (\u003cem>don tat\u003c/em>)\u003c/a> are the quintessential Chinese pastry, found in any self-respectable Chinese bakery or dim sum house. Growing up, whenever it was holiday time, someone would always bring a box of these sweet treats to the hostess (kind of like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuLOqk57gIQ\">bundt cake\u003c/a> of our culture, if you will). The pink bakery box (why is it that the red ribbon holding it together always had a gazillion impossible knots to get through before you could dig in?) would sit on the kitchen counter all day along with the other items put out for grazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/11/27/bliss-at-golden-gate-bakery/\">Golden Gate Bakery\u003c/a> is a mecca for egg tart lovers. Devout worshippers line up out the door as fresh batches of these egg custard pastries -- with their warm creamy filling, flaky crust, and gentle price -- are churned out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2) Prawns with Honey Walnuts (Canton Dim Sum & Seafood)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shrimp2-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shrimp2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Prawns with Honey Walnuts, Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\" title=\"Prawns with Honey Walnuts, Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22479\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Prawns with Honey Walnuts, Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cantonsf.com/\">Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\u003c/a> in SoMa features not only dim sum on its daily menu, but it also offers some traditional banquet dishes as well. Their \u003cstrong>Prawns with Honey Walnuts\u003c/strong> is a classic favorite. Succulent shrimp are dusted in cornstarch and fried. They are then coated in a slightly sweet mayonnaise sauce (similar to tartar sauce) and served with candied walnuts sprinkled with sesame seeds. The sweet-savory combo in this dish is great. For a DIY version, I like this \u003ca href=\"http://rasamalaysia.com/chinese-food-recipe-honey-walnut/\">Honey Walnut Shrimp\u003c/a> recipe from \u003ca href=\"http://rasamalaysia.com/\">Rasa Malaysia\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3) Marinated Tofu (Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/asia-pearl-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/asia-pearl-1.jpg\" alt=\"Marinated Tofu, Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\" title=\"Marinated Tofu, Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marinated Tofu, Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know, it isn't very often that a tofu dish gets my panties in a bunch. I mean, how exciting can tofu get? That was before I tasted the \u003cstrong>Marinated Tofu\u003c/strong> at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/03/desperately-seeking-dim-sum/\">Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>. In Cantonese, this dish is called Lo Sui Dao Fu, which literally translated, means \"old water tofu.\" My mom tells me it's because restaurants that make this kind of tofu marinate it in stocks and juices leftover from other dishes. May not sound so appealing, but believe me, whatever is in that old water is working some magic because this dish will turn any tofu-hater into a believer. The silky smooth texture of the tofu is unreal, and seems even more so highlighted by the contrasting crunchiness of the fried casing around it. Light as air, this tofu will have you floating into the new year with a smile on your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4) Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Dumpling King) \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shanghai-dumpling-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shanghai-dumpling-1.jpg\" alt=\"Xiao Long Bao Soup Dumplings, Shanghai Dumpling King\" title=\"Xiao Long Bao Soup Dumplings, Shanghai Dumpling King\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22478\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Xiao Long Bao Soup Dumplings, Shanghai Dumpling King\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/24/pork-and-shrimp-dumplings-jiao-zi/\">Dumplings\u003c/a> are a traditional lucky food to ring in the New Year, said to bring good fortune and wealth because of its money purse-like shape. My dumpling of choice? \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2009/03/27/shanghai-dumpling-king-restaurant-info/\">Shanghai Dumpling King's\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Xiao Long Bao\u003c/strong>, these labor-intensive steamed soup dumplings of love are soul-satisfying. Once you bite through the thin, smooth wrapping, your mouth is flooded with a shock of hot, rich broth, and savory pork filling. Also utterly addictive are the \u003cstrong>Shanghai Style Crispy Salt Pancakes\u003c/strong>. They look nothing like pancakes, and resemble more of a rectangular folded crepe. Cut into pieces, the amazingly crispy, sesame seed-sprinkled, fried exterior gives way to a molten center of cabbage and coconut milk-scented batter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5) Faux Shark's Fin Soup (Benu)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/benu-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/benu-1.jpg\" alt=\"“Shark's Fin” Soup, Benu\" title=\"“Shark's Fin” Soup, Benu\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Shark's Fin\" Soup, Benu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Corey Lee at \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a> has taken the celebrated (and controversial) Chinese delicacy, shark's fin soup, and elevated it to mind-blowing proportions with his faux \u003cstrong>\"Shark's Fin\" Soup\u003c/strong>. His creation is a work of art, from the harmonious melding of flavors right down to the custom-made bowl it's served in. The dish is presented with a silky black truffle custard at the bottom of the bowl. Lee doesn't skimp on this luxurious treat either – there is more portioned than you think because the bowl has a special indented groove carved out of the bottom. Placed on top of the custard is a piece of sweet Dungeness crab and strands of faux shark's fin (the texture, by the way, is spot on -– you'd never know it wasn't real shark's fin). Your server then pours into the bowl an intensely flavored broth of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jinhua_ham\">Jinhua dry-cured ham\u003c/a>. Now that is a way to start of the New Year like an emperor. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Celebrate Chinese New Year with some of the Bay's best Chinese dishes.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1296632086,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":939},"headData":{"title":"Happy Chinese New Year – Eat Well and Prosper | KQED","description":"Celebrate Chinese New Year with some of the Bay's best Chinese dishes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Happy Chinese New Year – Eat Well and Prosper","datePublished":"2011-02-02T15:00:38.000Z","dateModified":"2011-02-02T07:34:46.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"22474 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=22474","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/02/happy-chinese-new-year-%e2%80%93-eat-well-and-prosper/","disqusTitle":"Happy Chinese New Year – Eat Well and Prosper","path":"/bayareabites/22474/happy-chinese-new-year-%e2%80%93-eat-well-and-prosper","audioUrl":"http://www.chinese-lessons.com/sounds/cantonese/culture/gungheifaatchoih.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chinese-lessons.com/sounds/cantonese/culture/gungheifaatchoih.mp3\">Gung Hay Fat Choy\u003c/a>! \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/27/food-and-wine-this-week-chinese-new-year/\">Happy Chinese New Year\u003c/a>, everyone! Tomorrow marks the start of the \u003cstrong>Year of the Rabbit\u003c/strong>, which means that celebrants of this Lunar New Year festival all over the world will be gathering with family, feasting on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/10/chinese-new-year-feast/\">lucky dishes\u003c/a>, and adorning their homes with fresh flowers and red decorations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who are into astrology and fun stuff like that, people born under the sign of the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_Zodiac\">Rabbit\u003c/a> are said to be gracious, calm-natured, amiable, intuitive, compassionate, and appreciative of the aesthetic and beautiful in life (among a myriad of other \"attributes\"). \u003cstrong>James Beard\u003c/strong> (born 1903) was a rabbit, \u003cstrong>Michael Ruhlman\u003c/strong> (born 1963) is a rabbit, as is \u003cstrong>Jamie Oliver\u003c/strong> (born 1975). Fortunetellers' \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/n/a/2011/01/28/international/i172726S77.DTL&type=living\">predictions\u003c/a> for this year are tumultuous, it won't put a damper on the festivities. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.chineseparade.com/\">Chinese New Year Parade\u003c/a> in San Francisco will take place Saturday 2/19, 5:15–8:00 pm (Market and Second Street to Kearny and Jackson; here's the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chineseparade.com/route.asp\">parade route\u003c/a>). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you've worked up an appetite, lion dancing and such, continue celebrating with some good \u003cstrong>Chinese Eats\u003c/strong>. Here are a few standout dishes that will have firecrackers going off in your mouth: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1) Egg Tarts (Golden Gate Bakery)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/don-tat-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/don-tat-1.jpg\" alt=\"Egg Tarts (don tat), Golden Gate Bakery\" title=\"Egg Tarts (don tat), Golden Gate Bakery\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22477\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Egg Tarts (don tat), Golden Gate Bakery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/king-sized-egg-custard-tart-dai-don-tot/\">Egg Tarts (\u003cem>don tat\u003c/em>)\u003c/a> are the quintessential Chinese pastry, found in any self-respectable Chinese bakery or dim sum house. Growing up, whenever it was holiday time, someone would always bring a box of these sweet treats to the hostess (kind of like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuLOqk57gIQ\">bundt cake\u003c/a> of our culture, if you will). The pink bakery box (why is it that the red ribbon holding it together always had a gazillion impossible knots to get through before you could dig in?) would sit on the kitchen counter all day along with the other items put out for grazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/11/27/bliss-at-golden-gate-bakery/\">Golden Gate Bakery\u003c/a> is a mecca for egg tart lovers. Devout worshippers line up out the door as fresh batches of these egg custard pastries -- with their warm creamy filling, flaky crust, and gentle price -- are churned out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2) Prawns with Honey Walnuts (Canton Dim Sum & Seafood)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shrimp2-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shrimp2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Prawns with Honey Walnuts, Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\" title=\"Prawns with Honey Walnuts, Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22479\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Prawns with Honey Walnuts, Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cantonsf.com/\">Canton Dim Sum & Seafood\u003c/a> in SoMa features not only dim sum on its daily menu, but it also offers some traditional banquet dishes as well. Their \u003cstrong>Prawns with Honey Walnuts\u003c/strong> is a classic favorite. Succulent shrimp are dusted in cornstarch and fried. They are then coated in a slightly sweet mayonnaise sauce (similar to tartar sauce) and served with candied walnuts sprinkled with sesame seeds. The sweet-savory combo in this dish is great. For a DIY version, I like this \u003ca href=\"http://rasamalaysia.com/chinese-food-recipe-honey-walnut/\">Honey Walnut Shrimp\u003c/a> recipe from \u003ca href=\"http://rasamalaysia.com/\">Rasa Malaysia\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3) Marinated Tofu (Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/asia-pearl-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/asia-pearl-1.jpg\" alt=\"Marinated Tofu, Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\" title=\"Marinated Tofu, Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22475\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marinated Tofu, Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know, it isn't very often that a tofu dish gets my panties in a bunch. I mean, how exciting can tofu get? That was before I tasted the \u003cstrong>Marinated Tofu\u003c/strong> at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/03/desperately-seeking-dim-sum/\">Asian Pearl Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a>. In Cantonese, this dish is called Lo Sui Dao Fu, which literally translated, means \"old water tofu.\" My mom tells me it's because restaurants that make this kind of tofu marinate it in stocks and juices leftover from other dishes. May not sound so appealing, but believe me, whatever is in that old water is working some magic because this dish will turn any tofu-hater into a believer. The silky smooth texture of the tofu is unreal, and seems even more so highlighted by the contrasting crunchiness of the fried casing around it. Light as air, this tofu will have you floating into the new year with a smile on your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4) Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Dumpling King) \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shanghai-dumpling-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/shanghai-dumpling-1.jpg\" alt=\"Xiao Long Bao Soup Dumplings, Shanghai Dumpling King\" title=\"Xiao Long Bao Soup Dumplings, Shanghai Dumpling King\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22478\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Xiao Long Bao Soup Dumplings, Shanghai Dumpling King\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/24/pork-and-shrimp-dumplings-jiao-zi/\">Dumplings\u003c/a> are a traditional lucky food to ring in the New Year, said to bring good fortune and wealth because of its money purse-like shape. My dumpling of choice? \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/2009/03/27/shanghai-dumpling-king-restaurant-info/\">Shanghai Dumpling King's\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>Xiao Long Bao\u003c/strong>, these labor-intensive steamed soup dumplings of love are soul-satisfying. Once you bite through the thin, smooth wrapping, your mouth is flooded with a shock of hot, rich broth, and savory pork filling. Also utterly addictive are the \u003cstrong>Shanghai Style Crispy Salt Pancakes\u003c/strong>. They look nothing like pancakes, and resemble more of a rectangular folded crepe. Cut into pieces, the amazingly crispy, sesame seed-sprinkled, fried exterior gives way to a molten center of cabbage and coconut milk-scented batter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5) Faux Shark's Fin Soup (Benu)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/benu-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/benu-1.jpg\" alt=\"“Shark's Fin” Soup, Benu\" title=\"“Shark's Fin” Soup, Benu\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22476\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Shark's Fin\" Soup, Benu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Corey Lee at \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a> has taken the celebrated (and controversial) Chinese delicacy, shark's fin soup, and elevated it to mind-blowing proportions with his faux \u003cstrong>\"Shark's Fin\" Soup\u003c/strong>. His creation is a work of art, from the harmonious melding of flavors right down to the custom-made bowl it's served in. The dish is presented with a silky black truffle custard at the bottom of the bowl. Lee doesn't skimp on this luxurious treat either – there is more portioned than you think because the bowl has a special indented groove carved out of the bottom. Placed on top of the custard is a piece of sweet Dungeness crab and strands of faux shark's fin (the texture, by the way, is spot on -– you'd never know it wasn't real shark's fin). Your server then pours into the bowl an intensely flavored broth of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jinhua_ham\">Jinhua dry-cured ham\u003c/a>. Now that is a way to start of the New Year like an emperor. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/22474/happy-chinese-new-year-%e2%80%93-eat-well-and-prosper","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_8908","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_8907","bayareabites_1784","bayareabites_8905","bayareabites_8910","bayareabites_554","bayareabites_8906","bayareabites_4183","bayareabites_3585","bayareabites_8909"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_21404":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_21404","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"21404","score":null,"sort":[1295289636000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-ichi-sushi%e2%80%99s-tim-and-erin-archuleta","title":"Food Secrets of ICHI Sushi’s Tim and Erin Archuleta","publishDate":1295289636,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/Tim-Erin-Archuleta500.jpg\" alt=\"Tim and Erin Archuleta. Photo Credit: Rebecca Hinsdale\" title=\"Tim and Erin Archuleta. Photo Credit: Rebecca Hinsdale\" width=\"500\" height=\"357\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21406\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tim and Erin Archuleta. Photo Credit: Rebecca Hinsdale\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim & Erin Archuleta are the co-founders & owners of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI.html\">ICHI Catering\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI_Lucky_Cat_Deli.html\">ICHI Lucky Cat Deli\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI_Sushi.html\">ICHI Sushi\u003c/a>. Tim is the ICHI Executive Chef and spent the past 13 years honing his skills behind the sushi bars of some of the most bustling, popular sushi and Asian-fusion restaurants in Northern California, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.tokyogogo.com/\">Tokyo Go Go\u003c/a> in San Francisco and Sushi on the River in Sacramento.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has worked as a sous chef, kitchen manager, and restaurant manager before stepping out in 2006 to form ICHI Catering. April of 2010 marked the opening of ICHI’s first retail location, ICHI Lucky Cat Deli in Bernal Heights, at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/331-cortland-san-francisco\">331 Cortland\u003c/a>. In September 2010, the Archuletas opened the doors to their first restaurant and sushi bar, ICHI Sushi. ICHI has won Best of the Bay recognition by the SF Bay Guardian, SF Weekly, and SFGate.com’s Bay List.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to helping launch the ICHI businesses, Erin writes for \u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com/\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a> and is the Director of Field Operations and Strategy for the literacy nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.826national.org/\">826 National\u003c/a>. The Everett Middle School community honored Erin with two César Chávez Peace Awards for her service in the 826 Valencia Writers’ Room. In addition, she was part of the team who won a Moonbeam Spirit Child Wellness Award for Children’s Literature with Wallenberg Traditional High School, and was recently a nominee for the Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (W.I.S.E.) 2010 Woman Entrepreneur of the Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SUSHI HAPPY HOURS LEAD TO SUCCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple said: “We’ll be forever grateful to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theknockoutsf.com/\">The KnockOut\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bendersbar.com/\">Bender’s\u003c/a>, MR. (R.I.P), \u003ca href=\"http://www.swigbar.com/\">Swig\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.p1sf.com/\">ProjectOne\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.111minnagallery.com/\">111 Minna\u003c/a> for hosting our ICHI Sushi Happy Hours. The KnockOut gave us our start and the family who owns that place is tops! We’re still serving up sushi every Monday night at Bender’s and we love our Mission neighbors crew! Many of the gang there have been at Tim’s sushi bar either at Tokyo GoGo or at other happy hours, for years. We’re lucky to have such a great bar staff there, and love Cassie’s cocktails. Watch out— they’re pint-sized!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Archuletas live at the bottom of the Bernal Heights hill, near ICHI Sushi. Tim is from Sacramento and Erin is from Flint, Michigan. Flint is the capital of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coney_Island_hot_dog\">Coney Island hot dogs\u003c/a> (which have nothing to do with Coney Island, they’re a loose meat hot dog combo.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAVORITE LOCAL FOOD & DRINK SPOTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re Bernal Heights folks, and we’re so spoiled to have great eats in the area. We are lucky to have such good business-mates at 331 Cortland and love (equally) \u003ca href=\"http://www.elportenosf.com/locations.html\">El Porteño’s Champiñones\u003c/a> Empanadas, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pauliespickling.com/Paulies_Plickling/Paulies_Pickling_1.html\">Paulie’s Pickling’s\u003c/a> Chopped Liver, and \u003ca href=\"http://dezysdrinks.blogspot.com/p/contact.html\">Dezy’s\u003c/a> handmade Nettle Refreshers. We use \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/11/331_cortland_spice_hound.php\">SpiceHound’s\u003c/a> salts at ICHI Sushi, and call on Josh at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bernalcutlery.com/\">Bernal Cutlery\u003c/a> for knife know-how. Many of the 331 Cortland gang catch a nightcap together from time-to-time at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/wild-side-west-san-francisco\">Wild Side West\u003c/a> .” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON BOOKS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When we need inspiration, we hop on over to Noe Valley’s \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/17/secrets-of-a-curator-omnivore-books-celia-sack/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> for the latest Canal House or another treasure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THEIR SAN FRANCISCO LIST\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our favorite dinners out on nights off in the neighborhood are at husband-wife owned \u003ca href=\"http://www.laciccia.com/\">La Ciccia\u003c/a> (Oh God, the tripe and that massive wine list!), \u003ca href=\"http://www.blueplatesf.com/\">The Blue Plate\u003c/a> where some cool progressive American dishes are happening (be sure to try the unique take on chicken thighs) by one of our dearest friends Chef de Cuisine Sean Thomas, and grabbing a cocktail next door with a big ‘ol meatball sub and perfectly homemade fries by our buddy Barry at \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a>. We have a big brunch crush on \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefrontporchsf.com/main.html\">The Front Porch\u003c/a> and are regulars. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we get out of the neighborhood for a dinner or a drink, we like to try things all over the map. Recently, we had Christmas Eve Dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect \u003c/a> by Chef Ravi Kapur, and it was phenomenal. We’re still dreaming of the warm bourbon apple ciders, and the best foie gras we’ve had—ever, anywhere. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our favorite dim sum, (great for counteracting a Saturday night when Tim’s customers may have gifted him with hearty sake pours one after another), is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/s-and-t-hong-kong-seafood-restaurant-san-francisco\">Hong Kong Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a> at 33rd and Noriega. This place is no frills. But, it’s got everything you want in a good dim sum experience — pork, seafood, hearty soups, and strong green tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, (and we love to go out for sushi), we frequent \u003ca href=\"http://www.sushikoo.com/\">Koo\u003c/a> in the Inner Sunset, \u003ca href=\"http://www.oyajirestaurant.com/\">Oyaji\u003c/a> in the Outer Richmond, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/kiss-seafood-san-francisco\">Kiss Seafood\u003c/a> just off Japantown. Behind the bar at Koo is Tim’s mentor, Kiyoshi Hiyakawa, who is always on the lookout for the best fish and seasonal Japanese omakase. Oyaji is a father-son team with a slender sushi bar (wait for a seat at the bar, it’s worth it). After you’re super-full from the grilled pork belly, or even too much of a good thing with sashimi, you can stumble next door to an old-school San Francisco Bar, \u003ca href=\"http://www.teeoffbarandgrill.com/\">The Tee Off Bar & Grill\u003c/a> for a shot of Fernet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.comstocksaloon.com/\">Comstock Saloon\u003c/a> has such great cocktails. We love to take out-of-towners there for the romantic (and even a little scandalous) history of the place. There’s nothing quite like the Barbary Coast to get a tour of the Painted Ladies off your guests’ 8:30 AM itinerary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re both dying to try \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, and just need a night off together to get there. Same for \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> . Shamefully, we haven’t been there, either. With build-out after build-out under our belts for the last couple of years, we’ve specialized in lunch, with favorites like \u003ca href=\"http://www.hardknoxcafe.com/\">Hard Knox Café\u003c/a> in the Dogpatch, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenettesf.com/\">Kitchenette\u003c/a>. We’re happy to welcome new neighbors to Bayview, near our catering kitchen, and are eager to try \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/smokin-warehouse-barbecue-san-francisco\">Smokin’ Warehouse Barbecue\u003c/a>. That will make sitting out front waiting for the traffic headed to Candlestick a bit easier to take.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DATE SPOTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We tend to have date lunches, because Tim is usually behind the sushi bar at night. Tim’s favorite burger is the Turkey Burger at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigmouthburgerssf.com/\">Big Mouth\u003c/a> on 24th Street. In Berkeley, we recently had a phenomenal lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.seasaltrestaurant.com/\">Sea Salt\u003c/a>. Our next date night will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a> in Oakland. We’re excited to try James Syhabout’s menu and our friend Carlos Salgado’s pastry dishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we get the occasional evening to ourselves, a fantastic cocktail and meaty charcuterie is waiting at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a>. And, we went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogandrocks.com/\">Hog and Rocks\u003c/a> and had a wonderful time over oysters, ham, and frothy whisky sours for our anniversary. The photos on the wall there are reminiscent of the old Playboy Gourmet cookbook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GUILTY PLEASURE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Old Italian men in suits! We love \u003ca href=\"http://joesofwestlake.com/\">Joe's of Westlake\u003c/a>. Erin used to work at an assisted living community in the Sunset when she first moved to San Francisco, and the waiters all made the women stepping off her bus feel like the Queens of Spain; taking their coats, telling them how beautiful they were. You better believe she takes all my visiting older Aunties there. Same for \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ristorante-marcello-san-francisco\">Marcello’s\u003c/a> in the Parkside: what an old-school San Francisco treat. Men in goldenrod tuxedos are not to be ignored.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>KARAOKE LEADS TO LOVE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple said: \"We met six years ago at a karaoke birthday party. It was Tim’s rendition of '\u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=840B27zYfOk\">Total Eclipse of the Heart\u003c/a>' (complete with dance moves), that won Erin’s heart. We married in the Presidio in 2008 and had our reception at the historic Regency Center in the Lodge. Dear chef friends of ours, Freedom Rains (of Flour + Water), and Nana Guardia (at Prospect) produced the best meals our families could have ever dreamt about. Another one of our closest friends Derek McCarthy (Presidio Social Club) cooked our rehearsal dinner. Erin’s Mom still boasts to her co-workers about ‘the pork.’ We will be forever grateful to all of them. Some may think it would be tough to work with your spouse, but building ICHI together has truly strengthened our marriage, our ties to our community, and our senses of humor.” \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tim & Erin Archuleta are the co-founders & owners of ICHI Catering, ICHI Lucky Cat Deli, and ICHI Sushi. They share their favorite spots for dining, drinking, date night, books and guilty pleasures.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1295337877,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1459},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of ICHI Sushi’s Tim and Erin Archuleta | KQED","description":"Tim & Erin Archuleta are the co-founders & owners of ICHI Catering, ICHI Lucky Cat Deli, and ICHI Sushi. They share their favorite spots for dining, drinking, date night, books and guilty pleasures.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food Secrets of ICHI Sushi’s Tim and Erin Archuleta","datePublished":"2011-01-17T18:40:36.000Z","dateModified":"2011-01-18T08:04:37.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"21404 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=21404","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/17/food-secrets-of-ichi-sushi%e2%80%99s-tim-and-erin-archuleta/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of ICHI Sushi’s Tim and Erin Archuleta","path":"/bayareabites/21404/food-secrets-of-ichi-sushi%e2%80%99s-tim-and-erin-archuleta","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/Tim-Erin-Archuleta500.jpg\" alt=\"Tim and Erin Archuleta. Photo Credit: Rebecca Hinsdale\" title=\"Tim and Erin Archuleta. Photo Credit: Rebecca Hinsdale\" width=\"500\" height=\"357\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21406\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tim and Erin Archuleta. Photo Credit: Rebecca Hinsdale\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tim & Erin Archuleta are the co-founders & owners of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI.html\">ICHI Catering\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI_Lucky_Cat_Deli.html\">ICHI Lucky Cat Deli\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ichisushi.com/ICHI/ICHI_Sushi.html\">ICHI Sushi\u003c/a>. Tim is the ICHI Executive Chef and spent the past 13 years honing his skills behind the sushi bars of some of the most bustling, popular sushi and Asian-fusion restaurants in Northern California, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.tokyogogo.com/\">Tokyo Go Go\u003c/a> in San Francisco and Sushi on the River in Sacramento.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has worked as a sous chef, kitchen manager, and restaurant manager before stepping out in 2006 to form ICHI Catering. April of 2010 marked the opening of ICHI’s first retail location, ICHI Lucky Cat Deli in Bernal Heights, at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/331-cortland-san-francisco\">331 Cortland\u003c/a>. In September 2010, the Archuletas opened the doors to their first restaurant and sushi bar, ICHI Sushi. ICHI has won Best of the Bay recognition by the SF Bay Guardian, SF Weekly, and SFGate.com’s Bay List.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to helping launch the ICHI businesses, Erin writes for \u003ca href=\"http://tablehopper.com/\">tablehopper.com\u003c/a> and is the Director of Field Operations and Strategy for the literacy nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.826national.org/\">826 National\u003c/a>. The Everett Middle School community honored Erin with two César Chávez Peace Awards for her service in the 826 Valencia Writers’ Room. In addition, she was part of the team who won a Moonbeam Spirit Child Wellness Award for Children’s Literature with Wallenberg Traditional High School, and was recently a nominee for the Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (W.I.S.E.) 2010 Woman Entrepreneur of the Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SUSHI HAPPY HOURS LEAD TO SUCCESS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple said: “We’ll be forever grateful to \u003ca href=\"http://www.theknockoutsf.com/\">The KnockOut\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bendersbar.com/\">Bender’s\u003c/a>, MR. (R.I.P), \u003ca href=\"http://www.swigbar.com/\">Swig\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.p1sf.com/\">ProjectOne\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.111minnagallery.com/\">111 Minna\u003c/a> for hosting our ICHI Sushi Happy Hours. The KnockOut gave us our start and the family who owns that place is tops! We’re still serving up sushi every Monday night at Bender’s and we love our Mission neighbors crew! Many of the gang there have been at Tim’s sushi bar either at Tokyo GoGo or at other happy hours, for years. We’re lucky to have such a great bar staff there, and love Cassie’s cocktails. Watch out— they’re pint-sized!” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Archuletas live at the bottom of the Bernal Heights hill, near ICHI Sushi. Tim is from Sacramento and Erin is from Flint, Michigan. Flint is the capital of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coney_Island_hot_dog\">Coney Island hot dogs\u003c/a> (which have nothing to do with Coney Island, they’re a loose meat hot dog combo.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAVORITE LOCAL FOOD & DRINK SPOTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re Bernal Heights folks, and we’re so spoiled to have great eats in the area. We are lucky to have such good business-mates at 331 Cortland and love (equally) \u003ca href=\"http://www.elportenosf.com/locations.html\">El Porteño’s Champiñones\u003c/a> Empanadas, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pauliespickling.com/Paulies_Plickling/Paulies_Pickling_1.html\">Paulie’s Pickling’s\u003c/a> Chopped Liver, and \u003ca href=\"http://dezysdrinks.blogspot.com/p/contact.html\">Dezy’s\u003c/a> handmade Nettle Refreshers. We use \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/11/331_cortland_spice_hound.php\">SpiceHound’s\u003c/a> salts at ICHI Sushi, and call on Josh at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bernalcutlery.com/\">Bernal Cutlery\u003c/a> for knife know-how. Many of the 331 Cortland gang catch a nightcap together from time-to-time at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/wild-side-west-san-francisco\">Wild Side West\u003c/a> .” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON BOOKS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When we need inspiration, we hop on over to Noe Valley’s \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/17/secrets-of-a-curator-omnivore-books-celia-sack/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> for the latest Canal House or another treasure.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THEIR SAN FRANCISCO LIST\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our favorite dinners out on nights off in the neighborhood are at husband-wife owned \u003ca href=\"http://www.laciccia.com/\">La Ciccia\u003c/a> (Oh God, the tripe and that massive wine list!), \u003ca href=\"http://www.blueplatesf.com/\">The Blue Plate\u003c/a> where some cool progressive American dishes are happening (be sure to try the unique take on chicken thighs) by one of our dearest friends Chef de Cuisine Sean Thomas, and grabbing a cocktail next door with a big ‘ol meatball sub and perfectly homemade fries by our buddy Barry at \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a>. We have a big brunch crush on \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefrontporchsf.com/main.html\">The Front Porch\u003c/a> and are regulars. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we get out of the neighborhood for a dinner or a drink, we like to try things all over the map. Recently, we had Christmas Eve Dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.prospectsf.com/\">Prospect \u003c/a> by Chef Ravi Kapur, and it was phenomenal. We’re still dreaming of the warm bourbon apple ciders, and the best foie gras we’ve had—ever, anywhere. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our favorite dim sum, (great for counteracting a Saturday night when Tim’s customers may have gifted him with hearty sake pours one after another), is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/s-and-t-hong-kong-seafood-restaurant-san-francisco\">Hong Kong Seafood Restaurant\u003c/a> at 33rd and Noriega. This place is no frills. But, it’s got everything you want in a good dim sum experience — pork, seafood, hearty soups, and strong green tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, (and we love to go out for sushi), we frequent \u003ca href=\"http://www.sushikoo.com/\">Koo\u003c/a> in the Inner Sunset, \u003ca href=\"http://www.oyajirestaurant.com/\">Oyaji\u003c/a> in the Outer Richmond, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/kiss-seafood-san-francisco\">Kiss Seafood\u003c/a> just off Japantown. Behind the bar at Koo is Tim’s mentor, Kiyoshi Hiyakawa, who is always on the lookout for the best fish and seasonal Japanese omakase. Oyaji is a father-son team with a slender sushi bar (wait for a seat at the bar, it’s worth it). After you’re super-full from the grilled pork belly, or even too much of a good thing with sashimi, you can stumble next door to an old-school San Francisco Bar, \u003ca href=\"http://www.teeoffbarandgrill.com/\">The Tee Off Bar & Grill\u003c/a> for a shot of Fernet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.comstocksaloon.com/\">Comstock Saloon\u003c/a> has such great cocktails. We love to take out-of-towners there for the romantic (and even a little scandalous) history of the place. There’s nothing quite like the Barbary Coast to get a tour of the Painted Ladies off your guests’ 8:30 AM itinerary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’re both dying to try \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, and just need a night off together to get there. Same for \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> . Shamefully, we haven’t been there, either. With build-out after build-out under our belts for the last couple of years, we’ve specialized in lunch, with favorites like \u003ca href=\"http://www.hardknoxcafe.com/\">Hard Knox Café\u003c/a> in the Dogpatch, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenettesf.com/\">Kitchenette\u003c/a>. We’re happy to welcome new neighbors to Bayview, near our catering kitchen, and are eager to try \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/smokin-warehouse-barbecue-san-francisco\">Smokin’ Warehouse Barbecue\u003c/a>. That will make sitting out front waiting for the traffic headed to Candlestick a bit easier to take.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DATE SPOTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We tend to have date lunches, because Tim is usually behind the sushi bar at night. Tim’s favorite burger is the Turkey Burger at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bigmouthburgerssf.com/\">Big Mouth\u003c/a> on 24th Street. In Berkeley, we recently had a phenomenal lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.seasaltrestaurant.com/\">Sea Salt\u003c/a>. Our next date night will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a> in Oakland. We’re excited to try James Syhabout’s menu and our friend Carlos Salgado’s pastry dishes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we get the occasional evening to ourselves, a fantastic cocktail and meaty charcuterie is waiting at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berettasf.com/\">Beretta\u003c/a>. And, we went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogandrocks.com/\">Hog and Rocks\u003c/a> and had a wonderful time over oysters, ham, and frothy whisky sours for our anniversary. The photos on the wall there are reminiscent of the old Playboy Gourmet cookbook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GUILTY PLEASURE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Old Italian men in suits! We love \u003ca href=\"http://joesofwestlake.com/\">Joe's of Westlake\u003c/a>. Erin used to work at an assisted living community in the Sunset when she first moved to San Francisco, and the waiters all made the women stepping off her bus feel like the Queens of Spain; taking their coats, telling them how beautiful they were. You better believe she takes all my visiting older Aunties there. Same for \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ristorante-marcello-san-francisco\">Marcello’s\u003c/a> in the Parkside: what an old-school San Francisco treat. Men in goldenrod tuxedos are not to be ignored.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>KARAOKE LEADS TO LOVE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple said: \"We met six years ago at a karaoke birthday party. It was Tim’s rendition of '\u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=840B27zYfOk\">Total Eclipse of the Heart\u003c/a>' (complete with dance moves), that won Erin’s heart. We married in the Presidio in 2008 and had our reception at the historic Regency Center in the Lodge. Dear chef friends of ours, Freedom Rains (of Flour + Water), and Nana Guardia (at Prospect) produced the best meals our families could have ever dreamt about. Another one of our closest friends Derek McCarthy (Presidio Social Club) cooked our rehearsal dinner. Erin’s Mom still boasts to her co-workers about ‘the pork.’ We will be forever grateful to all of them. Some may think it would be tough to work with your spouse, but building ICHI together has truly strengthened our marriage, our ties to our community, and our senses of humor.” \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/21404/food-secrets-of-ichi-sushi%e2%80%99s-tim-and-erin-archuleta","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_8837","bayareabites_8834","bayareabites_8835","bayareabites_8836"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_18365":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_18365","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"18365","score":null,"sort":[1289157262000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook","title":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook","publishDate":1289157262,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\" alt=\"Amanda Hesser\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18377\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Sarah Shatz\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amanda Hesser is hungry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's five p.m. on Saturday and she's been signing her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393061035/kqedorg-20\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century\u003c/a>, since nine in the morning. Just lifting the 932-page, tomato-soup-colored tome would be a workout, packed as it is with hundreds recipes spanning the Times' entire 150-year history of food writing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's scheduled to have a potluck dinner later with contributors to \u003ca href=\"http://www.food52.com\">food52\u003c/a>, her online community of enthusiastic home cooks, but at this moment, she's wilting, the music in the hotel bar too loud and the crowd already raucous. Thinking of Negronis, maybe a little pizza, I offer up Bruce Hill's new \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerozerosf.com/\">Zero Zero\u003c/a>, but on our way over there, Hesser suggests a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, Corey Lee's Asian-inspired revamp of the old Two/Hawthorne Lane space, which she's been curious to see. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's not open yet, nor do they have a bar, but then again, Lee earned his chops at the French Laundry. This is not a place that's in the business of saying no. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also helps that the server who answers our knock instantly recognizes Hesser. Not that they open early for us, but an elegantly suited gentleman brings us out a wine list, followed by two glasses of Roederer Estate sparkler to pass the time while we wait on a bench outside the door. Looking over the serenely feng-shui'ed courtyard lined with vine-draped pergolas, Hesser notes the expansiveness and welcome that sets some San Francisco restaurants apart from their equally high-end NYC brethren. \"I haven't even been inside, and I already like this place,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once inside, we discover that while Benu may not have a bar menu, they have invested in an extremely nice line of amuse-gueles, especially, I imagine, when the \u003cem>guele\u003c/em> to be amused is Hesser's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up: two cubes of mountain-yam souffle, each sitting on its own little slatted wooden bench as if ready for a sauna. I tell Amanda that the first thing I looked for in the book was the Banana Tea Bread recipe immortalized in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/New-York-Times-Cookbook-1961/dp/B000UDS3JM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1289155098&sr=8-3\">The New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>, circa 1961, the only banana bread recipe that anyone in the world should ever need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Claiborne book was an instant classic, elegantly laid out, spare on chat but thorough on instructions and technique. It was a cookbook for ambitious homemakers and sophisticated urbanites alike, and still, if I go into the kitchen of any woman of my mother's generation, I know without looking that the distinctive blue-green-gold spine will be there in the kitchen, right between the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SILVER-PALATE-COOKBOOK-MANHATTANS-CELEBRATED/dp/B001G6TBTS/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289155154&sr=1-4\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Julia-Child/e/B000AQ0XXS/ref=sr_tc_ep?qid=1289155409\">Julia Child\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Claiborne made no attempt to ingratiate himself with readers. He didn't tell you about himself; instead, he told you, in a voice of authority that brooked no dissent, how to make profiteroles, set a tea table, or stuff a breast of veal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wisely, Hesser made no attempt to update Claiborne's version. Particularly beloved recipes from his book, like that banana bread, do turn up in hers, precisely because they're now part of our collective cooking history. Claiborne chose his recipes from among those popular with readers, back when responding to a newspaper with praise or condemnation required setting pen (or typewriter) to paper and finding a stamp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six years in the making, the book began in 2004, when Hesser, then the food editor of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/pages/magazine/index.html\">New York Times Magazine\u003c/a>, put out a call to readers asking them to send her their crumpled, their stained, their most-loved, most-used Times recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over 6,000 readers replied, with picks that Hesser and her business partner Merrill Stubbs eventually winnowed (and ruthlessly tested) down to some 400 greatest hits, mostly culled from the last 40 years. Then, Hesser dived into the Times' extensive archives, reaching back all the way through the second half of the 19th century. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Although, as she writes, \"Sharp-eyed readers may suspect that I slacked off during the 1940s and 50s, but if you could taste some of the recipes I made from this era, you would see that I am saving you from a world of hurt,\" i.e., broiled peanut-butter-and-bacon canapes.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result, comprehensive and lively, is a scrapbook of how we eat now, showing the stops along the way that led us from \u003cem>Le Cirque's Pasta Primavera\u003c/em> (1977) to \u003cem>Bulgar Salad with Pomegranate Dressing\u003c/em> (2006), from \u003cem>Green Goddess Salad\u003c/em> (invented at San Francisco's Palace Hotel in 1923, but not mentioned in the Times until 1948) to Alice Water's \u003cem>Baked Goat Cheese with Salad\u003c/em> (1983). There are snappy timelines, cross-indexed menus for every occasion, and useful lists of go-with dishes at the end of every recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're fascinated by the social history of food, and food trends, the chapter introductions and headnotes will provide plenty of interesting bedtime reading. And if you just want a good recipe for meatloaf, cheesecake, or apple pie, well, you'll find that too, in many iterations. In collating all the reader responses, Hesser and Stubbs discovered, over and over, what the Times community was really cooking. A lot of meatloaves. Many cheesecakes. Any dessert featuring chocolate, apples, or lemon. Butternut squash soup and gazpacho, no-knead bread and no-cook fresh tomato sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everything caught on; even with all those woks in the cabinets, few people were cooking Chinese at home. Covering food news for the Times, Hesser realized, \"You broadcast out, saying this is a trend happening, but it doesn't stop there. The real curation happens with the readers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's helpful to know that the chapters are ordered chronologically, so that scallops, for example, might show up in several different places within the same chapter, rather than being clustered together. This was a deliberate decision on Hesser's part, to give each chapter a historic and narrative arc, so that in, say, the dessert chapter, you can see how the 1870s fad for blancmange, a quivery, milk-based pudding with medieval roots, was followed, some hundred years later, by an equally intense 1990s craze for quivery, cream-based panna cotta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a book of newspaper recipes from such an august arbiter of taste as the Times, the tone--friendly, breezy, chatty--is surprisingly personal. In every headnote, the guiding voice is Hesser's, telling you, for example, how she loves the accolades she earns serving writer Kay Rentschler's \u003cem>Chilled Corn Soup with Honeydew Polka Dots\u003c/em>, even as Rentschler's nit-picky, madly complicated directions lead her to swear at Rentschler's recipes like other people shout at Glenn Beck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she writes of the soup, \"It looks pretty and people praise me. And I quietly feel great respect for Rentschler, while disliking her just the same.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Testing recipes from her predecessors in the 1970s and 80s, Hesser was prepared to cook the equivalent of those bad-haircut high school photos. \u003cem>Tuna au poivre\u003c/em>: how much more \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bonfire_of_the_Vanities\">Bonfire of the Vanities\u003c/a> could you get? \"But you know what?\" Hesser laughs. \"Done right, it was great! There's a reason why it was so popular.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we talk, a quiet parade of doll-size snacks has been appearing on our low cube of a table. Half a preserved quail egg, bright with ginger and nestled in a tiny spoon. What looks like a cigarette rolled by elves and perched on a miniature ashtray turns out to be a succulent sliver of eel wrapped in crunchy brik pastry next to a dab of creme fraiche topped with salt and lime zest. We shatter through a couple of strips of nori-speckled flatbread, then make our way out, back onto the busy SoMa streets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gifttool.com/registrar/ShowEventDetails?ID=1767&EID=8008\">The Art of Food Writing: An Adult Writers' Seminar\u003c/a>, a benefit for \u003ca href=\"http://www.826valencia.org\">826 Valencia\u003c/a>, will be held at the Women's Building in San Francisco on Sunday, Nov. 7th, from 7-9pm. Amanda Hesser will be in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/17/secrets-of-a-curator-omnivore-books-celia-sack/\">Celia Sack\u003c/a>, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/23/le-fooding-fights-daniel-patterson-on-east-vs-west/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, executive chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. $100/person.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow Amanda Hesser on Twitter \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/amandahesser\">@amandahesser\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Amanda Hesser talks with Stephanie Rosenbaum about her brand-new magnum opus, \u003cem>The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century\u003c/em>, spanning 150 years, 932 pages, and a lot of recipes for meatloaf, chicken, and cheesecake.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1289161379,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1379},"headData":{"title":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook | KQED","description":"Amanda Hesser talks with Stephanie Rosenbaum about her brand-new magnum opus, The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century, spanning 150 years, 932 pages, and a lot of recipes for meatloaf, chicken, and cheesecake.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook","datePublished":"2010-11-07T19:14:22.000Z","dateModified":"2010-11-07T20:22:59.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"18365 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=18365","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/07/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook/","disqusTitle":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook","path":"/bayareabites/18365/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\" alt=\"Amanda Hesser\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18377\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Sarah Shatz\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amanda Hesser is hungry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's five p.m. on Saturday and she's been signing her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393061035/kqedorg-20\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century\u003c/a>, since nine in the morning. Just lifting the 932-page, tomato-soup-colored tome would be a workout, packed as it is with hundreds recipes spanning the Times' entire 150-year history of food writing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's scheduled to have a potluck dinner later with contributors to \u003ca href=\"http://www.food52.com\">food52\u003c/a>, her online community of enthusiastic home cooks, but at this moment, she's wilting, the music in the hotel bar too loud and the crowd already raucous. Thinking of Negronis, maybe a little pizza, I offer up Bruce Hill's new \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerozerosf.com/\">Zero Zero\u003c/a>, but on our way over there, Hesser suggests a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, Corey Lee's Asian-inspired revamp of the old Two/Hawthorne Lane space, which she's been curious to see. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's not open yet, nor do they have a bar, but then again, Lee earned his chops at the French Laundry. This is not a place that's in the business of saying no. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also helps that the server who answers our knock instantly recognizes Hesser. Not that they open early for us, but an elegantly suited gentleman brings us out a wine list, followed by two glasses of Roederer Estate sparkler to pass the time while we wait on a bench outside the door. Looking over the serenely feng-shui'ed courtyard lined with vine-draped pergolas, Hesser notes the expansiveness and welcome that sets some San Francisco restaurants apart from their equally high-end NYC brethren. \"I haven't even been inside, and I already like this place,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once inside, we discover that while Benu may not have a bar menu, they have invested in an extremely nice line of amuse-gueles, especially, I imagine, when the \u003cem>guele\u003c/em> to be amused is Hesser's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up: two cubes of mountain-yam souffle, each sitting on its own little slatted wooden bench as if ready for a sauna. I tell Amanda that the first thing I looked for in the book was the Banana Tea Bread recipe immortalized in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/New-York-Times-Cookbook-1961/dp/B000UDS3JM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1289155098&sr=8-3\">The New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>, circa 1961, the only banana bread recipe that anyone in the world should ever need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Claiborne book was an instant classic, elegantly laid out, spare on chat but thorough on instructions and technique. It was a cookbook for ambitious homemakers and sophisticated urbanites alike, and still, if I go into the kitchen of any woman of my mother's generation, I know without looking that the distinctive blue-green-gold spine will be there in the kitchen, right between the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SILVER-PALATE-COOKBOOK-MANHATTANS-CELEBRATED/dp/B001G6TBTS/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289155154&sr=1-4\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Julia-Child/e/B000AQ0XXS/ref=sr_tc_ep?qid=1289155409\">Julia Child\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Claiborne made no attempt to ingratiate himself with readers. He didn't tell you about himself; instead, he told you, in a voice of authority that brooked no dissent, how to make profiteroles, set a tea table, or stuff a breast of veal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wisely, Hesser made no attempt to update Claiborne's version. Particularly beloved recipes from his book, like that banana bread, do turn up in hers, precisely because they're now part of our collective cooking history. Claiborne chose his recipes from among those popular with readers, back when responding to a newspaper with praise or condemnation required setting pen (or typewriter) to paper and finding a stamp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six years in the making, the book began in 2004, when Hesser, then the food editor of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/pages/magazine/index.html\">New York Times Magazine\u003c/a>, put out a call to readers asking them to send her their crumpled, their stained, their most-loved, most-used Times recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over 6,000 readers replied, with picks that Hesser and her business partner Merrill Stubbs eventually winnowed (and ruthlessly tested) down to some 400 greatest hits, mostly culled from the last 40 years. Then, Hesser dived into the Times' extensive archives, reaching back all the way through the second half of the 19th century. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Although, as she writes, \"Sharp-eyed readers may suspect that I slacked off during the 1940s and 50s, but if you could taste some of the recipes I made from this era, you would see that I am saving you from a world of hurt,\" i.e., broiled peanut-butter-and-bacon canapes.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result, comprehensive and lively, is a scrapbook of how we eat now, showing the stops along the way that led us from \u003cem>Le Cirque's Pasta Primavera\u003c/em> (1977) to \u003cem>Bulgar Salad with Pomegranate Dressing\u003c/em> (2006), from \u003cem>Green Goddess Salad\u003c/em> (invented at San Francisco's Palace Hotel in 1923, but not mentioned in the Times until 1948) to Alice Water's \u003cem>Baked Goat Cheese with Salad\u003c/em> (1983). There are snappy timelines, cross-indexed menus for every occasion, and useful lists of go-with dishes at the end of every recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're fascinated by the social history of food, and food trends, the chapter introductions and headnotes will provide plenty of interesting bedtime reading. And if you just want a good recipe for meatloaf, cheesecake, or apple pie, well, you'll find that too, in many iterations. In collating all the reader responses, Hesser and Stubbs discovered, over and over, what the Times community was really cooking. A lot of meatloaves. Many cheesecakes. Any dessert featuring chocolate, apples, or lemon. Butternut squash soup and gazpacho, no-knead bread and no-cook fresh tomato sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everything caught on; even with all those woks in the cabinets, few people were cooking Chinese at home. Covering food news for the Times, Hesser realized, \"You broadcast out, saying this is a trend happening, but it doesn't stop there. The real curation happens with the readers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's helpful to know that the chapters are ordered chronologically, so that scallops, for example, might show up in several different places within the same chapter, rather than being clustered together. This was a deliberate decision on Hesser's part, to give each chapter a historic and narrative arc, so that in, say, the dessert chapter, you can see how the 1870s fad for blancmange, a quivery, milk-based pudding with medieval roots, was followed, some hundred years later, by an equally intense 1990s craze for quivery, cream-based panna cotta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a book of newspaper recipes from such an august arbiter of taste as the Times, the tone--friendly, breezy, chatty--is surprisingly personal. In every headnote, the guiding voice is Hesser's, telling you, for example, how she loves the accolades she earns serving writer Kay Rentschler's \u003cem>Chilled Corn Soup with Honeydew Polka Dots\u003c/em>, even as Rentschler's nit-picky, madly complicated directions lead her to swear at Rentschler's recipes like other people shout at Glenn Beck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she writes of the soup, \"It looks pretty and people praise me. And I quietly feel great respect for Rentschler, while disliking her just the same.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Testing recipes from her predecessors in the 1970s and 80s, Hesser was prepared to cook the equivalent of those bad-haircut high school photos. \u003cem>Tuna au poivre\u003c/em>: how much more \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bonfire_of_the_Vanities\">Bonfire of the Vanities\u003c/a> could you get? \"But you know what?\" Hesser laughs. \"Done right, it was great! There's a reason why it was so popular.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we talk, a quiet parade of doll-size snacks has been appearing on our low cube of a table. Half a preserved quail egg, bright with ginger and nestled in a tiny spoon. What looks like a cigarette rolled by elves and perched on a miniature ashtray turns out to be a succulent sliver of eel wrapped in crunchy brik pastry next to a dab of creme fraiche topped with salt and lime zest. We shatter through a couple of strips of nori-speckled flatbread, then make our way out, back onto the busy SoMa streets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gifttool.com/registrar/ShowEventDetails?ID=1767&EID=8008\">The Art of Food Writing: An Adult Writers' Seminar\u003c/a>, a benefit for \u003ca href=\"http://www.826valencia.org\">826 Valencia\u003c/a>, will be held at the Women's Building in San Francisco on Sunday, Nov. 7th, from 7-9pm. Amanda Hesser will be in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/17/secrets-of-a-curator-omnivore-books-celia-sack/\">Celia Sack\u003c/a>, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/23/le-fooding-fights-daniel-patterson-on-east-vs-west/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, executive chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. $100/person.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow Amanda Hesser on Twitter \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/amandahesser\">@amandahesser\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/18365/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_8493","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_8389","bayareabites_8494","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_8495","bayareabites_3226"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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