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Through stories across various mediums, Ruth explores the creation and consumption of cultural products. You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"https://www.kotetakotet.com/\">here\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=mm&r=g","twitter":"root_g","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":[]}],"headData":{"title":"Ruth Gebreyesus | KQED","description":"Food Writer","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=mm&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=mm&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rgebreyesus"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_136801":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136801","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"136801","score":null,"sort":[1586396176000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1586396176,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"Cooking During COVID-19: Family Meals And Fantasies Of Future Dinner Parties","title":"Cooking During COVID-19: Family Meals And Fantasies Of Future Dinner Parties","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>As billions of people around the world face \u003ca href=\"https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2020/04/coronavirus-world-staying-home-200406122943899.html\">stay-at-home orders\u003c/a> because of COVID-19, family dinners — and breakfasts and lunches — are resurgent. Former \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> food editor Sam Sifton calls the shift to family meals one of the \"precious few good things\" happening as a result of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of us are really experiencing the joys of eating together with family regularly,\" he says. \"For me, it's been kind of joyful amid all the sorrow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136806\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136806\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday.jpg\" alt='\"See You on Sunday A Cookbook for Family and Friends\" by Sam Sifton, David Malosh and Simon Andrews.' width=\"300\" height=\"369\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday.jpg 300w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday-160x197.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"See You on Sunday A Cookbook for Family and Friends\" by Sam Sifton, David Malosh and Simon Andrews.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sifton was recently promoted to be \u003cem>The Times'\u003c/em> assistant managing editor, overseeing its culture and lifestyle coverage, but he \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/sam-sifton\">continues to write\u003c/a> about food and its role in helping people cope with the isolation of the pandemic. His new cookbook, \u003cem>See You on Sunday\u003c/em>, was inspired by the idea that regularly gathering and feeding friends and family is psychologically and spiritually nourishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're gathering for the purpose of sustenance, for the purpose of an almost literal communion,\" he says. \"If you do that regularly enough, you'll see a change in your relationship to both the cooking and the people — and perhaps see a change in yourself and how you regard the world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sifton emphasizes that now is not the time for dinner parties. Instead, he's staying home, enjoying meals with his own nuclear family — and fantasizing about the other side of the pandemic, when he can safely host a big Sunday dinner. His ideal post-coronavirus feast? A giant pot of steamed clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone crowded together around it when it's done, shoulders touching and people reaching over one another to get at the drawn butter and tearing off pieces of bread to dip into the broth,\" he says. \"That's gonna be joyous when that happens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview highlights \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how people are cooking both adventurously and pragmatically during the pandemic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may be a time to be more adventurous. It's also, conversely, a time to be simple. At \u003cem>The New York Times \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/\">\u003cem>NYT Cooking\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (our recipe site and app), we're seeing that play out in real time in what people are searching for and what people are asking us about. You see people, on the one hand, trying to perfect their sourdough bread-making skills, and on the other asking for what the simplest, easiest way to get a can of beans on the table to feed the family is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I think that's kind of neat, actually, that we can hold these two things in our minds at once. These projects that we'll try and execute over the course of hours and days and then also: How am I going to do this fast and quick and cheap and with what's available? And I hope we can deliver answers to both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On improvising with limited pantry items \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it depends what's in the pantry. ... I'm not like a lot of my colleagues [who] are a true chef. I'm a pretty good cook and I can follow any recipe you throw at me. I could work for a chef, but I can't kind of close my eyes and conjure up amazing combinations and flavors as someone like [food columnist] \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/ourcooks/melissa-clark/my-recipes\">Melissa Clark\u003c/a> can do for \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Instead, I rely on these jarred magical potions — which range from peanut butter, to pickled chilies, to soy sauce, to maple syrup — to deliver notes of flavor on top of whatever plain-Jane things happen to be in the bottom of the refrigerator crisper. ... And sometimes it doesn't work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On being open to substitutions \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that many people — me included — write recipes, because if you follow them, you will get the result that I got and that I want you to get. But if you substitute along the way, you may end up with something that you like — and that's even better. We joke about this a lot at \u003cem>The Times\u003c/em> ... about people who say, \"I tried the chicken, but I didn't have chicken, so I used sardines, and this is a terrible recipe.\" Your mileage may vary. But using the spices that you have or the flavors that you have on hand is more than perfectly all right. It's welcome. It's what we ought to do. It's in the nature of cooking often and being confident about what it is you're doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the versatility of tinned fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm loving the tinned fish right now. There's so many different things that you can do with those critters. If they're anchovies, I would use them like a condiment. They add this kind of salty \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15819485\">umami \u003c/a>pop to everything. I like sardines on crackers with a little mayonnaise and a little hot sauce. ... With tuna, there's so much you can do, particularly if the tuna is of good quality, then it can kind of stand on its own. If it's not, if it's just supermarket canned tuna, it's still pretty great. You mix it into a tuna salad with a little mayo, maybe with some curry powder if you have some going, a curried tuna salad is really terrific. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I find those canned fishes of all varieties to be hugely helpful in the manner of bringing variety to your diet and also a lot of good taste. I bet you, if you look deep enough, there may be a can of minced clams in the back [of the cupboard], and add that to a tomato sauce and spaghetti dinner is all the better this time for that addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On shopping infrequently because of the virus, and looking for ingredients that stretch \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that we should be getting out to shop as little as possible. I think social distancing means ... that we shouldn't all be crowding into the store every night as if we were living in an imaginary Paris to pick up our daily baguette and a couple of duck legs for dinner. Life isn't like that right now. I try to go as infrequently as possible to the market to stock up, and when I do, I try not to shop like a panicky person. But I do want meals that stretch. If I can find a pork shoulder that can become four meals over the course of a week, well, that's great. If I can land starches and grains to put next to those various pork dishes, I'm happy. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're cooking with a lot of cabbage right now. I think that's because I like cabbage for its ability to be many things, including once you get rid of those outer leaves ... you've got all that tender, fresh, clean, perfect cabbage flesh inside that makes a beautiful, crunchy, raw deliciousness thing on your plate at a time when sometimes fresh vegetables are few and far between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how the pandemic has impacted the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our reporters are laser-focused right now on this issue, and they came back to the paper with a report ... that suggested that it would not be insane to think that 70% of independent restaurants in the United States could be \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/20/dining/local-restaurants-coronavirus.html\">closed by the coronavirus pandemic\u003c/a>. And that's a staggering number. The size of the restaurant industry in the United States — the restaurant industry outside of the fast food industry — is gigantic. And it has ripple effects across the country with small farms, with larger farms, with fishermen, with wine salesmen, with all manner of related businesses that are going to suffer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had a story that spoke ... with a woman whose business is providing flowers for restaurants. That's gone. You think of the laundry services — gone. It's really scary. ... If a restaurant can't make payroll, it can't make rent. How long can they stay socially isolated and return in the same form? Everything is gonna be different on the other side of this — everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the importance of communal eating — even if it's just at home with your family\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wrote a book saying invite as many people [as you can], and you can always welcome the stranger. I believe that passionately. But that's not something that we can do right now. But I warrant that my argument holds true for those of us who are stuck at home right now: that it's not always easy to put that meal on the table at night these days, because it happens every single night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's something about the repetition. There is something about the practice of doing it that I think is going to bring a measure of something good to those who can see it for what it is: which is an act of giving to others — that the making of the food is important, because you are serving others, even if the person you are serving is super annoying right now because you've been living with them for four weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sam Briger and Mooj Zadie produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the Web.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 Fresh Air. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Cooking+During+COVID-19%3A+Family+Meals+And+Fantasies+Of+Future+Dinner+Parties&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"136801 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136801","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/04/08/cooking-during-covid-19-family-meals-and-fantasies-of-future-dinner-parties/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":1578,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":28},"modified":1586396176,"excerpt":"Food writer Sam Sifton says the resurgence of family meals is one of the \"precious few good things\" to come of the pandemic. He says his family is eating a lot of tinned fish and cabbage these days.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Food writer Sam Sifton says the resurgence of family meals is one of the "precious few good things" to come of the pandemic. He says his family is eating a lot of tinned fish and cabbage these days.","title":"Cooking During COVID-19: Family Meals And Fantasies Of Future Dinner Parties | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cooking During COVID-19: Family Meals And Fantasies Of Future Dinner Parties","datePublished":"2020-04-08T18:36:16-07:00","dateModified":"2020-04-08T18:36:16-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cooking-during-covid-19-family-meals-and-fantasies-of-future-dinner-parties","status":"publish","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=828498977&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Dave Davies, Heard on Fresh Air","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 07 Apr 2020 11:55:51 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 07 Apr 2020 12:49:36 -0400","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/2020/04/07/828498977/cooking-during-covid-19-family-meals-and-fantasies-of-future-dinner-parties?ft=nprml&f=828498977","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2020/04/20200407_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&aggIds=812054919&d=2056&p=13&story=828498977&ft=nprml&f=828498977","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprImageCredit":"supersizer","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1828921138-e9b80c.m3u?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&aggIds=812054919&d=2056&p=13&story=828498977&ft=nprml&f=828498977","nprStoryId":"828498977","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 07 Apr 2020 13:27:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/136801/cooking-during-covid-19-family-meals-and-fantasies-of-future-dinner-parties","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2020/04/20200407_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&aggIds=812054919&d=2056&p=13&story=828498977&ft=nprml&f=828498977","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As billions of people around the world face \u003ca href=\"https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2020/04/coronavirus-world-staying-home-200406122943899.html\">stay-at-home orders\u003c/a> because of COVID-19, family dinners — and breakfasts and lunches — are resurgent. Former \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> food editor Sam Sifton calls the shift to family meals one of the \"precious few good things\" happening as a result of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of us are really experiencing the joys of eating together with family regularly,\" he says. \"For me, it's been kind of joyful amid all the sorrow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136806\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136806\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday.jpg\" alt='\"See You on Sunday A Cookbook for Family and Friends\" by Sam Sifton, David Malosh and Simon Andrews.' width=\"300\" height=\"369\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday.jpg 300w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday-160x197.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"See You on Sunday A Cookbook for Family and Friends\" by Sam Sifton, David Malosh and Simon Andrews.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sifton was recently promoted to be \u003cem>The Times'\u003c/em> assistant managing editor, overseeing its culture and lifestyle coverage, but he \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/sam-sifton\">continues to write\u003c/a> about food and its role in helping people cope with the isolation of the pandemic. His new cookbook, \u003cem>See You on Sunday\u003c/em>, was inspired by the idea that regularly gathering and feeding friends and family is psychologically and spiritually nourishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're gathering for the purpose of sustenance, for the purpose of an almost literal communion,\" he says. \"If you do that regularly enough, you'll see a change in your relationship to both the cooking and the people — and perhaps see a change in yourself and how you regard the world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sifton emphasizes that now is not the time for dinner parties. Instead, he's staying home, enjoying meals with his own nuclear family — and fantasizing about the other side of the pandemic, when he can safely host a big Sunday dinner. His ideal post-coronavirus feast? A giant pot of steamed clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone crowded together around it when it's done, shoulders touching and people reaching over one another to get at the drawn butter and tearing off pieces of bread to dip into the broth,\" he says. \"That's gonna be joyous when that happens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview highlights \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how people are cooking both adventurously and pragmatically during the pandemic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may be a time to be more adventurous. It's also, conversely, a time to be simple. At \u003cem>The New York Times \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/\">\u003cem>NYT Cooking\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (our recipe site and app), we're seeing that play out in real time in what people are searching for and what people are asking us about. You see people, on the one hand, trying to perfect their sourdough bread-making skills, and on the other asking for what the simplest, easiest way to get a can of beans on the table to feed the family is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I think that's kind of neat, actually, that we can hold these two things in our minds at once. These projects that we'll try and execute over the course of hours and days and then also: How am I going to do this fast and quick and cheap and with what's available? And I hope we can deliver answers to both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On improvising with limited pantry items \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it depends what's in the pantry. ... I'm not like a lot of my colleagues [who] are a true chef. I'm a pretty good cook and I can follow any recipe you throw at me. I could work for a chef, but I can't kind of close my eyes and conjure up amazing combinations and flavors as someone like [food columnist] \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/ourcooks/melissa-clark/my-recipes\">Melissa Clark\u003c/a> can do for \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Instead, I rely on these jarred magical potions — which range from peanut butter, to pickled chilies, to soy sauce, to maple syrup — to deliver notes of flavor on top of whatever plain-Jane things happen to be in the bottom of the refrigerator crisper. ... And sometimes it doesn't work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On being open to substitutions \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that many people — me included — write recipes, because if you follow them, you will get the result that I got and that I want you to get. But if you substitute along the way, you may end up with something that you like — and that's even better. We joke about this a lot at \u003cem>The Times\u003c/em> ... about people who say, \"I tried the chicken, but I didn't have chicken, so I used sardines, and this is a terrible recipe.\" Your mileage may vary. But using the spices that you have or the flavors that you have on hand is more than perfectly all right. It's welcome. It's what we ought to do. It's in the nature of cooking often and being confident about what it is you're doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the versatility of tinned fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm loving the tinned fish right now. There's so many different things that you can do with those critters. If they're anchovies, I would use them like a condiment. They add this kind of salty \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15819485\">umami \u003c/a>pop to everything. I like sardines on crackers with a little mayonnaise and a little hot sauce. ... With tuna, there's so much you can do, particularly if the tuna is of good quality, then it can kind of stand on its own. If it's not, if it's just supermarket canned tuna, it's still pretty great. You mix it into a tuna salad with a little mayo, maybe with some curry powder if you have some going, a curried tuna salad is really terrific. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I find those canned fishes of all varieties to be hugely helpful in the manner of bringing variety to your diet and also a lot of good taste. I bet you, if you look deep enough, there may be a can of minced clams in the back [of the cupboard], and add that to a tomato sauce and spaghetti dinner is all the better this time for that addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On shopping infrequently because of the virus, and looking for ingredients that stretch \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that we should be getting out to shop as little as possible. I think social distancing means ... that we shouldn't all be crowding into the store every night as if we were living in an imaginary Paris to pick up our daily baguette and a couple of duck legs for dinner. Life isn't like that right now. I try to go as infrequently as possible to the market to stock up, and when I do, I try not to shop like a panicky person. But I do want meals that stretch. If I can find a pork shoulder that can become four meals over the course of a week, well, that's great. If I can land starches and grains to put next to those various pork dishes, I'm happy. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're cooking with a lot of cabbage right now. I think that's because I like cabbage for its ability to be many things, including once you get rid of those outer leaves ... you've got all that tender, fresh, clean, perfect cabbage flesh inside that makes a beautiful, crunchy, raw deliciousness thing on your plate at a time when sometimes fresh vegetables are few and far between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how the pandemic has impacted the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our reporters are laser-focused right now on this issue, and they came back to the paper with a report ... that suggested that it would not be insane to think that 70% of independent restaurants in the United States could be \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/20/dining/local-restaurants-coronavirus.html\">closed by the coronavirus pandemic\u003c/a>. And that's a staggering number. The size of the restaurant industry in the United States — the restaurant industry outside of the fast food industry — is gigantic. And it has ripple effects across the country with small farms, with larger farms, with fishermen, with wine salesmen, with all manner of related businesses that are going to suffer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had a story that spoke ... with a woman whose business is providing flowers for restaurants. That's gone. You think of the laundry services — gone. It's really scary. ... If a restaurant can't make payroll, it can't make rent. How long can they stay socially isolated and return in the same form? Everything is gonna be different on the other side of this — everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the importance of communal eating — even if it's just at home with your family\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wrote a book saying invite as many people [as you can], and you can always welcome the stranger. I believe that passionately. But that's not something that we can do right now. But I warrant that my argument holds true for those of us who are stuck at home right now: that it's not always easy to put that meal on the table at night these days, because it happens every single night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's something about the repetition. There is something about the practice of doing it that I think is going to bring a measure of something good to those who can see it for what it is: which is an act of giving to others — that the making of the food is important, because you are serving others, even if the person you are serving is super annoying right now because you've been living with them for four weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sam Briger and Mooj Zadie produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the Web.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 Fresh Air. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Cooking+During+COVID-19%3A+Family+Meals+And+Fantasies+Of+Future+Dinner+Parties&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136801/cooking-during-covid-19-family-meals-and-fantasies-of-future-dinner-parties","authors":["byline_bayareabites_136801"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136805","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136244":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136244","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"136244","score":null,"sort":[1581460218000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1581460218,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'","title":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_136250' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg' 'label='Cook up chef Bryant Terry's Beans and Broccoli sandwich for dinner this week']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"136244 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136244","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/02/11/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":760,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":14},"modified":1581467814,"excerpt":"The Oakland-based chef and author’s newest cookbook is an ode to the glory of vegetables.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"The Oakland-based chef and author’s newest cookbook is an ode to the glory of vegetables.","title":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom' | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'","datePublished":"2020-02-11T14:30:18-08:00","dateModified":"2020-02-11T16:36:54-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom","status":"publish","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136244/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136250","hero":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg","label":"'label='Cook up chef Bryant Terry's Beans and Broccoli sandwich for dinner this week'"},"numeric":["'label='Cook","up","chef","Bryant","Terry's","Beans","and","Broccoli","sandwich","for","dinner","this","week'"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136244/veganism-isnt-restrictive-in-bryant-terrys-abundant-vegetable-kingdom","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_1931","bayareabites_9094","bayareabites_112","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_236","bayareabites_15850","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_16399"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136246","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_128147":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_128147","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"128147","score":null,"sort":[1526399659000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1526399659,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"Gels, Foams and Purees: Cookbooks Serve Up Recipes For Those Who Struggle To Swallow","title":"Gels, Foams and Purees: Cookbooks Serve Up Recipes For Those Who Struggle To Swallow","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>In 2007 Diane Wolff, an Asian scholar about to move from California to New York City, got a call from her mother: Dementia had made it hard to take care of herself. Couldn't Diane move to Florida instead of New York? \"My mother was beautiful and headstrong, and even in her old age I thought of her like Scarlett O'Hara,\" says Wolff. \"She needed me, and I packed up and moved to Florida.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010, however, her mother's dementia led to a swallowing disorder called dysphagia. When Wolff tried to source soft foods, or recipes for those with dysphagia, she came up virtually empty handed. \"Commercially available pureed foods were horrible. One caregiver compared them to dog food, and I think that was being kind.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working with dieticians and speech pathologists, Wolff — who cared for her mother until her death in 2013 — began to develop a suite of techniques and recipes for pureeing delicious, nutritious foods, from pizza to roast chicken. Today she is known as \"The Queen of Puree.\" With 12 self-published books — including \u003ca href=\"https://essentialpuree.com/\">The Essential Puree: The A to Z Guidebook\u003c/a> — a blog, and a busy schedule training caregivers and medical professionals, she is helping pioneer a new approach to an increasingly common disorder. The essence: simple, intensely flavorful food that is easy on the throat and packed with good nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year \u003ca href=\"https://www.asha.org/PRPSpecificTopic.aspx?folderid=8589942550§ion=Incidence_and_Prevalence\">1 in 25 adults\u003c/a> experience a swallowing disorder. Dsyphagia has many causes — ranging from dementia to stroke, surgery and neurological disorders — but no matter the origin, the ability to safely consume foods is essential, according to speech pathologist David Fagen, at Fawcett Memorial Hospital in Port Charlotte, Fla. Some \u003ca href=\"file:///C:UsershpDropbox%20(Personal)NPR%20The%20SaltDisabled%20Foods%20Chefvitalcaretech.com\">60,000 dysphagia sufferers die each year\u003c/a>, mostly from aspiration pneumonia, which is caused when food or saliva is inhaled into the lungs. Those with dysphagia can also lose interest in eating if foods are too bland or swallowing is too difficult, \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3426263/\">leading to weight loss and poor nutrition.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff says there are essential tricks to a successful puree. One key is the careful application of flavor through sauces. \"When you puree a food,\" she explains, \"you increase the surface area by a factor of thousands, and you lose flavor. It tastes bland. Sauce becomes the all-important medium to carry flavor. A simple half-cup of sauce can make a puree delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>High-fiber foods will need to be strained after pureeing, and swapping ingredients can be essential. (A polenta pizza crust works well, whereas a traditional wheat flour crust does not). High-speed blenders are best for breaking down the cell walls of fruits and vegetables and liberating the nutrients within. Thickeners such as xanthan gum can be purchased either in gel or powder form; they allow liquids and purees to be thickened according to the patient's ability to swallow, as determined by a speech language pathologist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128149\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2361px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg\" alt=\"Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential.\" width=\"2361\" height=\"1498\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128149\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg 2361w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-800x508.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-768x487.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1020x647.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1200x761.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1180x749.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-960x609.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-240x152.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-375x238.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-520x330.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2361px) 100vw, 2361px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential. \u003ccite>(Matt Jewell/HammondCare)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another tip for caregivers: Before cooking, bring ingredients, such as vegetables and fruits, in to the patient, so they can see and smell them. Present the entire dish before it is pureed, as well. Prepare seasonal foods — the iconic dishes of summer, fall, winter and spring. \"Engage all their senses during meal preparation. Just because the form of the food has changed, doesn't mean eating has to be boring and tasteless,\" says Wolff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff isn't the only food professional addressing dysphagia. Peter Morgan-Jones is executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia, which operates facilities for patients with dementia, aged, and palliative care needs. He has published \u003ca href=\"http://www.hammond.com.au/services/food-culture/dont-give-me-eggs-that-bounce\">three cookbooks\u003c/a> for people who have trouble chewing and swallowing, or even using cutlery; his fourth — coauthored with palliative care specialist \u003ca href=\"http://sydney.edu.au/medicine/people/academics/profiles/rod.macleod.php\">Roderick MacLeod\u003c/a> of the University of Sydney — is forthcoming in late May. Many of his ingenious recipes draw on molecular gastronomy, utilizing whipping cream canisters to create \"molecular foams\" soaked in flavor but as light as air, dissolving on the tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I first tried a foam on my friend's son, who had been on a feeding tube for eight years,\" he explains. Morgan-Jones blended fresh strawberries and ice cream, passed them through a strainer, and added a binding agent. He then frothed the liquid into a foam. \"I put the bubble on his tongue and though it was full of fragrance and flavor, it just disappeared without swallowing. His eyes lit up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones utilizes thickening agents, such as agar-agar and xanthan gum, to create gels that can be easily consumed. He offers recipes for finger food, since some individuals suffering from dementia, arthritis or neurological conditions have difficulty using cutlery. His ingenuity extends to beverages: vodka and tonic ice blocks, a jellied mulled-wine ice cube, and a jelled Scotch-on-the-rocks that can be consumed by dipping cotton swabs into the blend, freezing them and then sucking gently. \"It's a new way of having a favorite tipple,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones believes the visual impression a food makes is essential: \"If you present someone with dementia a bowl of orange mush, they won't know if it's pumpkin, carrot, or squash. But if you mold it into the shape of a carrot, or pour a puree of pear into a pear-shaped mold, it will look familiar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using Morgan-Jones' books, Peter Welfare, a HammondCare chef, created a chicken drumstick satay and a pureed fruit salad for a 51-year-old mother of two with early onset dementia. She was living on ice cream, custard and fruit, and was facing a possible feeding tube because of her difficulty eating. The pureed chicken was molded into the shape of drumsticks; similarly, the pureed fruit was set on yogurt and sculpted to look like the fruits themselves. \"It was a smashing success. She ate it all,\" reports Welfare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individuals with swallowing difficulties are often presented with a difficult choice, says Prudence Ellis, a senior speech pathologist with HammondCare. \"They can eat and drink safely but lose the pleasure of food, or they can choose quality of life with delicious meals that may trigger choking or aspiration,\" Ellis says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cookbooks dedicated to dysphagia, that impossible choice may be changing. Ellis recalls treating a passionate wine lover with dysphagia. \"All he wanted for Christmas was a Shiraz, which is a popular wine made from a dark-skinned grape.\" By modifying Morgan-Jones' Scotch cotton swabs, Ellis was able to provide the patient a Christmas drink. \"I brought him joy, instead of taking from him something he loved.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"128147 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=128147","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/15/gels-foams-and-purees-cookbooks-serve-up-recipes-for-those-who-struggle-to-swallow/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":1135,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":17},"modified":1526399684,"excerpt":"Swallowing disorders are becoming increasingly common. Some chefs are now whipping up nutritious recipes that are not only easy on the throat, but help restore the joy of eating.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Swallowing disorders are becoming increasingly common. Some chefs are now whipping up nutritious recipes that are not only easy on the throat, but help restore the joy of eating.","title":"Gels, Foams and Purees: Cookbooks Serve Up Recipes For Those Who Struggle To Swallow | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Gels, Foams and Purees: Cookbooks Serve Up Recipes For Those Who Struggle To Swallow","datePublished":"2018-05-15T08:54:19-07:00","dateModified":"2018-05-15T08:54:44-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"gels-foams-and-purees-cookbooks-serve-up-recipes-for-those-who-struggle-to-swallow","status":"publish","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=609389349&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Jill Neimark, NPR Food","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 15 May 2018 09:59:40 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 15 May 2018 09:59:40 -0400","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/05/15/609389349/gels-foams-and-purees-cookbooks-serve-up-recipes-for-those-who-struggle-to-swall?ft=nprml&f=609389349","nprImageAgency":"HammondCare","nprImageCredit":"Matt Jewell","nprStoryId":"609389349","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 15 May 2018 09:59:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/128147/gels-foams-and-purees-cookbooks-serve-up-recipes-for-those-who-struggle-to-swallow","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In 2007 Diane Wolff, an Asian scholar about to move from California to New York City, got a call from her mother: Dementia had made it hard to take care of herself. Couldn't Diane move to Florida instead of New York? \"My mother was beautiful and headstrong, and even in her old age I thought of her like Scarlett O'Hara,\" says Wolff. \"She needed me, and I packed up and moved to Florida.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010, however, her mother's dementia led to a swallowing disorder called dysphagia. When Wolff tried to source soft foods, or recipes for those with dysphagia, she came up virtually empty handed. \"Commercially available pureed foods were horrible. One caregiver compared them to dog food, and I think that was being kind.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working with dieticians and speech pathologists, Wolff — who cared for her mother until her death in 2013 — began to develop a suite of techniques and recipes for pureeing delicious, nutritious foods, from pizza to roast chicken. Today she is known as \"The Queen of Puree.\" With 12 self-published books — including \u003ca href=\"https://essentialpuree.com/\">The Essential Puree: The A to Z Guidebook\u003c/a> — a blog, and a busy schedule training caregivers and medical professionals, she is helping pioneer a new approach to an increasingly common disorder. The essence: simple, intensely flavorful food that is easy on the throat and packed with good nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year \u003ca href=\"https://www.asha.org/PRPSpecificTopic.aspx?folderid=8589942550§ion=Incidence_and_Prevalence\">1 in 25 adults\u003c/a> experience a swallowing disorder. Dsyphagia has many causes — ranging from dementia to stroke, surgery and neurological disorders — but no matter the origin, the ability to safely consume foods is essential, according to speech pathologist David Fagen, at Fawcett Memorial Hospital in Port Charlotte, Fla. Some \u003ca href=\"file:///C:UsershpDropbox%20(Personal)NPR%20The%20SaltDisabled%20Foods%20Chefvitalcaretech.com\">60,000 dysphagia sufferers die each year\u003c/a>, mostly from aspiration pneumonia, which is caused when food or saliva is inhaled into the lungs. Those with dysphagia can also lose interest in eating if foods are too bland or swallowing is too difficult, \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3426263/\">leading to weight loss and poor nutrition.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff says there are essential tricks to a successful puree. One key is the careful application of flavor through sauces. \"When you puree a food,\" she explains, \"you increase the surface area by a factor of thousands, and you lose flavor. It tastes bland. Sauce becomes the all-important medium to carry flavor. A simple half-cup of sauce can make a puree delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>High-fiber foods will need to be strained after pureeing, and swapping ingredients can be essential. (A polenta pizza crust works well, whereas a traditional wheat flour crust does not). High-speed blenders are best for breaking down the cell walls of fruits and vegetables and liberating the nutrients within. Thickeners such as xanthan gum can be purchased either in gel or powder form; they allow liquids and purees to be thickened according to the patient's ability to swallow, as determined by a speech language pathologist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128149\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2361px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg\" alt=\"Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential.\" width=\"2361\" height=\"1498\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128149\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg 2361w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-800x508.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-768x487.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1020x647.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1200x761.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1180x749.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-960x609.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-240x152.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-375x238.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-520x330.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2361px) 100vw, 2361px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential. \u003ccite>(Matt Jewell/HammondCare)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another tip for caregivers: Before cooking, bring ingredients, such as vegetables and fruits, in to the patient, so they can see and smell them. Present the entire dish before it is pureed, as well. Prepare seasonal foods — the iconic dishes of summer, fall, winter and spring. \"Engage all their senses during meal preparation. Just because the form of the food has changed, doesn't mean eating has to be boring and tasteless,\" says Wolff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff isn't the only food professional addressing dysphagia. Peter Morgan-Jones is executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia, which operates facilities for patients with dementia, aged, and palliative care needs. He has published \u003ca href=\"http://www.hammond.com.au/services/food-culture/dont-give-me-eggs-that-bounce\">three cookbooks\u003c/a> for people who have trouble chewing and swallowing, or even using cutlery; his fourth — coauthored with palliative care specialist \u003ca href=\"http://sydney.edu.au/medicine/people/academics/profiles/rod.macleod.php\">Roderick MacLeod\u003c/a> of the University of Sydney — is forthcoming in late May. Many of his ingenious recipes draw on molecular gastronomy, utilizing whipping cream canisters to create \"molecular foams\" soaked in flavor but as light as air, dissolving on the tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I first tried a foam on my friend's son, who had been on a feeding tube for eight years,\" he explains. Morgan-Jones blended fresh strawberries and ice cream, passed them through a strainer, and added a binding agent. He then frothed the liquid into a foam. \"I put the bubble on his tongue and though it was full of fragrance and flavor, it just disappeared without swallowing. His eyes lit up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones utilizes thickening agents, such as agar-agar and xanthan gum, to create gels that can be easily consumed. He offers recipes for finger food, since some individuals suffering from dementia, arthritis or neurological conditions have difficulty using cutlery. His ingenuity extends to beverages: vodka and tonic ice blocks, a jellied mulled-wine ice cube, and a jelled Scotch-on-the-rocks that can be consumed by dipping cotton swabs into the blend, freezing them and then sucking gently. \"It's a new way of having a favorite tipple,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones believes the visual impression a food makes is essential: \"If you present someone with dementia a bowl of orange mush, they won't know if it's pumpkin, carrot, or squash. But if you mold it into the shape of a carrot, or pour a puree of pear into a pear-shaped mold, it will look familiar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using Morgan-Jones' books, Peter Welfare, a HammondCare chef, created a chicken drumstick satay and a pureed fruit salad for a 51-year-old mother of two with early onset dementia. She was living on ice cream, custard and fruit, and was facing a possible feeding tube because of her difficulty eating. The pureed chicken was molded into the shape of drumsticks; similarly, the pureed fruit was set on yogurt and sculpted to look like the fruits themselves. \"It was a smashing success. She ate it all,\" reports Welfare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individuals with swallowing difficulties are often presented with a difficult choice, says Prudence Ellis, a senior speech pathologist with HammondCare. \"They can eat and drink safely but lose the pleasure of food, or they can choose quality of life with delicious meals that may trigger choking or aspiration,\" Ellis says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cookbooks dedicated to dysphagia, that impossible choice may be changing. Ellis recalls treating a passionate wine lover with dysphagia. \"All he wanted for Christmas was a Shiraz, which is a popular wine made from a dark-skinned grape.\" By modifying Morgan-Jones' Scotch cotton swabs, Ellis was able to provide the patient a Christmas drink. \"I brought him joy, instead of taking from him something he loved.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/128147/gels-foams-and-purees-cookbooks-serve-up-recipes-for-those-who-struggle-to-swallow","authors":["byline_bayareabites_128147"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_16160"],"featImg":"bayareabites_128148","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_124555":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_124555","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"124555","score":null,"sort":[1516856966000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1516856966,"format":"audio","disqusTitle":"With 'Hawker Fare,' Chef James Syhabout Shares Laotian Food He Grew Up With","title":"With 'Hawker Fare,' Chef James Syhabout Shares Laotian Food He Grew Up With","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/01/20180124_atc_hawker_fare.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, \u003cem>Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, \u003c/em>he sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: Fire ant salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a traditional Lao dish that he ate in his mother's home village. The ants nest in mango trees, and little children are sent into the tree to harvest the ants and fresh egg sacs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We got this salad, came to the table and there's like ants crawling in and out of it,\" Syhabout says. \"You just bite them before they bite you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos shares a border with Thailand, and Lao cooking is a cousin to Thai — the distant cousin you've never met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout says that's kind of the point of his cookbook: To introduce more people to the cuisine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The food that we know as Thai food, it's sweeter ... I call it the Coca-Cola culture\" he says. \"We all love soda, candy, you know, things that are sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout's father is from Laos; his mother is Lao by language and culture, but was born in Thailand. The family came to California as refugees, fleeing violence and the aftermath of the Vietnam War when James was 2 years old. They settled in Oakland, but still ate food that tasted of home, such as curried green beans with candied pork — despite the family's meager means.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"With welfare and food stamps you're only able to buy certain things. We couldn't buy fresh meant — we would only buy Oscar Mayer bacon. So my mother was intuitive enough, and she used bacon to make the green beans for us,\" Syhabout says. \"From a chef's standpoint, I thought it was brilliant. She was just trying to survive and she was homesick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His mom opened a Thai restaurant. As a kid he remembers asking his mother, \"Why do you cook Lao for us at home and Thai for the restaurant?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her answer involved perception, saying, \"They'll probably say it smells bad and it's too spicy and it doesn't appear appetizing — like, 'look, it's murky green, this thing looks like a bowl of swamp. ' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He calls the Thai food that most Americans know the \"gateway drug\" to Lao food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\" alt=\"When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad.\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1993\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of Thai food as we know it — laap, papaya salad — it's originated in Laos, it's actually Lao food,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James says he spent a lot of hours at his mother's restaurant growing up. Because of that he says he missed a lot of events, such as birthday parties, and play dates while he was washing pots and pans and picking the stems off of chilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That being said, he loved how stimulating a kitchen could be. The smells, the sounds and getting to learn how to use the tools of the kitchen were all things he enjoyed. By his sophomore year of high school, his mind was made up: He would become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After culinary school, Shyabout moved to Europe and trained in classical French techniques, working in some of the best restaurants in the world. Eventually he got the itch to come back to Oakland, and opened the \u003ca href=\"http://commisrestaurant.com/\">city's only Michelin-starred restaurant, Commis\u003c/a> — serving fancy California cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, he said, nostalgia set in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What got me into cooking in the first place was this food that I crave and miss. It's a shame I that I [didn't] know how to cook it for myself. I didn't feel complete soulfully as a cook,\" Syhabout says. \"Make a perfect ice cream? I can do that. Make bread? I can do that. But make jeow padek? I have no clue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, Syhabout \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\">opened Hawker Fare\u003c/a> in San Francisco in 2011. It's a far more casual place in the Bay Area, serving Lao and Thai street food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\" alt=\"Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because "It's the little country that could"\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because \"It's the little country that could\" \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The cookbook it inspired features plenty of exotic-sounding dishes — including rice-fermented cabbage with pig's ear and scallions — but it's not all complicated. One of the simplest recipes in the cookbook involves just three ingredients: a ramen packet, water and an egg. That dish, Syhabout says, makes him feel like a child again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go home after a long day and you're like — I need a hug. So I make some ramen noodles,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the most part, the recipes in the cookbook are made for sharing, being able to serve four, six or eight people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shyabout says writing the book, remembering certain dishes, was like a time machine. Picturing a dish, he could remember \"who was in the room, what was the lighting like, what was the smells, the colors on the walls — all of a sudden I remember those things, immediately.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hawker Fare \u003c/em>isn't the definitive Lao cookbook — and it isn't meant to be. Shyabout simply calls it the \"food about how I grew up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says he is a champion of Lao food because \"it's this little country that could, [and] I always liked the underdogs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says Lao food is an underdog because everybody knows Thai, yet his book is full of cooking that most Americans have not tasted. At least not yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"124555 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=124555","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/01/24/with-hawker-fare-chef-james-syhabout-shares-laotian-food-he-grew-up-with/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":1015,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":29},"modified":1516856966,"excerpt":"When he started writing the cookbook, chef James Syhabout went to his mother's hometown in Laos to sample the food. Now, he hopes to introduce more people to the cuisine.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"When he started writing the cookbook, chef James Syhabout went to his mother's hometown in Laos to sample the food. Now, he hopes to introduce more people to the cuisine.","title":"With 'Hawker Fare,' Chef James Syhabout Shares Laotian Food He Grew Up With | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"With 'Hawker Fare,' Chef James Syhabout Shares Laotian Food He Grew Up With","datePublished":"2018-01-24T21:09:26-08:00","dateModified":"2018-01-24T21:09:26-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"with-hawker-fare-chef-james-syhabout-shares-laotian-food-he-grew-up-with","status":"publish","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=580433759&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Mary Louise Kelly, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/01/24/580433759/with-hawker-fare-chef-james-syhabout-shares-laotian-food-he-grew-up-with\">NPR Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 24 Jan 2018 23:36:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 24 Jan 2018 23:37:05 -0500","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/01/24/580433759/with-hawker-fare-chef-james-syhabout-shares-laotian-food-he-grew-up-with?ft=nprml&f=580433759","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/01/20180124_atc_hawker_fare.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=438&p=2&story=580433759&ft=nprml&f=580433759","nprImageAgency":"HaperCollins Publishers","nprImageCredit":"Eric Wolfinger","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1580433789-9f4311.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=438&p=2&story=580433759&ft=nprml&f=580433759","nprStoryId":"580433759","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 24 Jan 2018 23:37:00 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/124555/with-hawker-fare-chef-james-syhabout-shares-laotian-food-he-grew-up-with","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/01/20180124_atc_hawker_fare.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=438&p=2&story=580433759&ft=nprml&f=580433759","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/01/20180124_atc_hawker_fare.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, \u003cem>Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, \u003c/em>he sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: Fire ant salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a traditional Lao dish that he ate in his mother's home village. The ants nest in mango trees, and little children are sent into the tree to harvest the ants and fresh egg sacs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We got this salad, came to the table and there's like ants crawling in and out of it,\" Syhabout says. \"You just bite them before they bite you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos shares a border with Thailand, and Lao cooking is a cousin to Thai — the distant cousin you've never met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout says that's kind of the point of his cookbook: To introduce more people to the cuisine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The food that we know as Thai food, it's sweeter ... I call it the Coca-Cola culture\" he says. \"We all love soda, candy, you know, things that are sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout's father is from Laos; his mother is Lao by language and culture, but was born in Thailand. The family came to California as refugees, fleeing violence and the aftermath of the Vietnam War when James was 2 years old. They settled in Oakland, but still ate food that tasted of home, such as curried green beans with candied pork — despite the family's meager means.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"With welfare and food stamps you're only able to buy certain things. We couldn't buy fresh meant — we would only buy Oscar Mayer bacon. So my mother was intuitive enough, and she used bacon to make the green beans for us,\" Syhabout says. \"From a chef's standpoint, I thought it was brilliant. She was just trying to survive and she was homesick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His mom opened a Thai restaurant. As a kid he remembers asking his mother, \"Why do you cook Lao for us at home and Thai for the restaurant?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her answer involved perception, saying, \"They'll probably say it smells bad and it's too spicy and it doesn't appear appetizing — like, 'look, it's murky green, this thing looks like a bowl of swamp. ' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He calls the Thai food that most Americans know the \"gateway drug\" to Lao food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\" alt=\"When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad.\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1993\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of Thai food as we know it — laap, papaya salad — it's originated in Laos, it's actually Lao food,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James says he spent a lot of hours at his mother's restaurant growing up. Because of that he says he missed a lot of events, such as birthday parties, and play dates while he was washing pots and pans and picking the stems off of chilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That being said, he loved how stimulating a kitchen could be. The smells, the sounds and getting to learn how to use the tools of the kitchen were all things he enjoyed. By his sophomore year of high school, his mind was made up: He would become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After culinary school, Shyabout moved to Europe and trained in classical French techniques, working in some of the best restaurants in the world. Eventually he got the itch to come back to Oakland, and opened the \u003ca href=\"http://commisrestaurant.com/\">city's only Michelin-starred restaurant, Commis\u003c/a> — serving fancy California cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, he said, nostalgia set in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What got me into cooking in the first place was this food that I crave and miss. It's a shame I that I [didn't] know how to cook it for myself. I didn't feel complete soulfully as a cook,\" Syhabout says. \"Make a perfect ice cream? I can do that. Make bread? I can do that. But make jeow padek? I have no clue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, Syhabout \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\">opened Hawker Fare\u003c/a> in San Francisco in 2011. It's a far more casual place in the Bay Area, serving Lao and Thai street food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\" alt=\"Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because "It's the little country that could"\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because \"It's the little country that could\" \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The cookbook it inspired features plenty of exotic-sounding dishes — including rice-fermented cabbage with pig's ear and scallions — but it's not all complicated. One of the simplest recipes in the cookbook involves just three ingredients: a ramen packet, water and an egg. That dish, Syhabout says, makes him feel like a child again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go home after a long day and you're like — I need a hug. So I make some ramen noodles,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the most part, the recipes in the cookbook are made for sharing, being able to serve four, six or eight people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shyabout says writing the book, remembering certain dishes, was like a time machine. Picturing a dish, he could remember \"who was in the room, what was the lighting like, what was the smells, the colors on the walls — all of a sudden I remember those things, immediately.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hawker Fare \u003c/em>isn't the definitive Lao cookbook — and it isn't meant to be. Shyabout simply calls it the \"food about how I grew up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says he is a champion of Lao food because \"it's this little country that could, [and] I always liked the underdogs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says Lao food is an underdog because everybody knows Thai, yet his book is full of cooking that most Americans have not tasted. At least not yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/124555/with-hawker-fare-chef-james-syhabout-shares-laotian-food-he-grew-up-with","authors":["byline_bayareabites_124555"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588"],"tags":["bayareabites_9365","bayareabites_2894"],"featImg":"bayareabites_124556","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_124430":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_124430","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"124430","score":null,"sort":[1516111256000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1516111256,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"How to Make Vegetable Prep Easier with Your Food Processor","title":"How to Make Vegetable Prep Easier with Your Food Processor","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>While we definitely think that home cooks should develop their knife skills, we can all use a little assist in the ingredient prep stage of a recipe, especially when we have to chop, dice, slice, and/or shred our way through a laundry list of components.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The detailed lineup of ingredients in many \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/browse/vegetables?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_browse_slugs%5D%5B0%5D=vegetables&fR%5Bsearch_course_list%5D%5B0%5D=Main+Courses&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">vegetable-centric main dishes\u003c/a> can make these recipes seem intimidating, and often different vegetables need to be prepared in different ways. Luckily, a good \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/equipment_reviews/1649-food-processors\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">food processor\u003c/a> permits you to put down your \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/420-how-to-build-the-best-knife-set\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">knives\u003c/a> (and your \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/equipment_reviews/1511-mandolines\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mandoline\u003c/a> and your \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/equipment_reviews/1042-graters\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">grater\u003c/a>)—the food processor will act as your prep cook. You'll get more uniform results while saving time, energy, and your sanity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are a few tricks we've discovered for making vegetable (and other ingredient) prep easier in the food processor:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>1. The Slicing Disk Is Your Best Friend\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Some food processors have adjustable blades so you can change the thickness of the slices. You can also purchase smaller or larger slicing disks for most models. The way you feed ingredients into the processor affects the slices, so pay attention to the orientation of the ingredient in the feed tube. Slicing works best with firm ingredients, so we prefer tightly packed greens, like the heart of romaine (see below). You can also roll greens like kale to create a tightly packed bundle for slicing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-124433\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1462\" height=\"816\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM.png 1462w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-160x89.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-800x447.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-768x429.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-1020x569.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-1180x659.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-960x536.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-240x134.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-375x209.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-520x290.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1462px) 100vw, 1462px\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>2. Choose the Right Feed Tube\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Many food processors come with a small and large feed tube. Choosing the appropriate size for your ingredients will help you pack them tightly; you'll get cleaner, more consistent results if they don't have room to move around. Whole potatoes, onions, and big pieces like wedges of cabbage benefit from the larger tube, while smaller amounts of narrower carrots, zucchini, and celery work best in the smaller one.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>3. When In Doubt, Underprocess\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Our best advice for chopping in the processor is to err on the side of underprocessing—you can always give the ingredients another pulse to chop them more finely, but you can't go back. For this precise reason, we tend to use the pulse function instead of the processing function when chopping, grinding, or mincing ingredients in the food processor. Pulsing food offers more control than processing it; the food is chopped more evenly because the ingredients are redistributed—akin to stirring—with every pulse. This allows you more control over the final texture, as with something like \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/9035-paleo-cauliflower-rice\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cauliflower Rice\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery columns=\"2\" size=\"medium\" type=\"columns\" ids=\"124432,124431\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>4. Trim the Ingredients and Use Steady Pressure\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Depending on the size of your ingredient, you may need to do some trimming before placing it in the feed tube. Use steady pressure when pushing food through the tube into the blades. If you're slicing several different ingredients that will ultimately be combined, you can even put them all into the feed tube together.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>5. Shredding Disk Easy Cleaning\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The shredding disk can shred all kinds of ingredients into small, even pieces. You can power through pounds of potatoes and other firm ingredients (like carrots) in just seconds. To make cleanup easier, spray the feed tube, disk, and workbowl with a light coating of vegetable oil spray before you begin to keep the ingredients from gumming up the shredding disk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>For recipes to make with your food processor tonight, go \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/guides/food-processor-perfection/recipes-to-make-now\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen's food processor recipes\u003c/a>! \u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/642-how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"124430 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=124430","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/01/16/how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":594,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":14},"modified":1516068987,"excerpt":"Take a break from practicing your knife skills and let your food processor do the work.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Take a break from practicing your knife skills and let your food processor do the work.","title":"How to Make Vegetable Prep Easier with Your Food Processor | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How to Make Vegetable Prep Easier with Your Food Processor","datePublished":"2018-01-16T06:00:56-08:00","dateModified":"2018-01-15T18:16:27-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor","status":"publish","nprByline":"\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/642-how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>","path":"/bayareabites/124430/how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>While we definitely think that home cooks should develop their knife skills, we can all use a little assist in the ingredient prep stage of a recipe, especially when we have to chop, dice, slice, and/or shred our way through a laundry list of components.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The detailed lineup of ingredients in many \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/browse/vegetables?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_browse_slugs%5D%5B0%5D=vegetables&fR%5Bsearch_course_list%5D%5B0%5D=Main+Courses&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">vegetable-centric main dishes\u003c/a> can make these recipes seem intimidating, and often different vegetables need to be prepared in different ways. Luckily, a good \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/equipment_reviews/1649-food-processors\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">food processor\u003c/a> permits you to put down your \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/420-how-to-build-the-best-knife-set\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">knives\u003c/a> (and your \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/equipment_reviews/1511-mandolines\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">mandoline\u003c/a> and your \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/equipment_reviews/1042-graters\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">grater\u003c/a>)—the food processor will act as your prep cook. You'll get more uniform results while saving time, energy, and your sanity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are a few tricks we've discovered for making vegetable (and other ingredient) prep easier in the food processor:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>1. The Slicing Disk Is Your Best Friend\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Some food processors have adjustable blades so you can change the thickness of the slices. You can also purchase smaller or larger slicing disks for most models. The way you feed ingredients into the processor affects the slices, so pay attention to the orientation of the ingredient in the feed tube. Slicing works best with firm ingredients, so we prefer tightly packed greens, like the heart of romaine (see below). You can also roll greens like kale to create a tightly packed bundle for slicing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM.png\">\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-124433\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"1462\" height=\"816\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM.png 1462w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-160x89.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-800x447.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-768x429.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-1020x569.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-1180x659.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-960x536.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-240x134.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-375x209.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/Screen-Shot-2018-01-15-at-6.05.08-PM-520x290.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1462px) 100vw, 1462px\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>2. Choose the Right Feed Tube\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Many food processors come with a small and large feed tube. Choosing the appropriate size for your ingredients will help you pack them tightly; you'll get cleaner, more consistent results if they don't have room to move around. Whole potatoes, onions, and big pieces like wedges of cabbage benefit from the larger tube, while smaller amounts of narrower carrots, zucchini, and celery work best in the smaller one.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>3. When In Doubt, Underprocess\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Our best advice for chopping in the processor is to err on the side of underprocessing—you can always give the ingredients another pulse to chop them more finely, but you can't go back. For this precise reason, we tend to use the pulse function instead of the processing function when chopping, grinding, or mincing ingredients in the food processor. Pulsing food offers more control than processing it; the food is chopped more evenly because the ingredients are redistributed—akin to stirring—with every pulse. This allows you more control over the final texture, as with something like \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/9035-paleo-cauliflower-rice\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cauliflower Rice\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"columns":"2","size":"medium","type":"columns","ids":"124432,124431","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>4. Trim the Ingredients and Use Steady Pressure\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Depending on the size of your ingredient, you may need to do some trimming before placing it in the feed tube. Use steady pressure when pushing food through the tube into the blades. If you're slicing several different ingredients that will ultimately be combined, you can even put them all into the feed tube together.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>5. Shredding Disk Easy Cleaning\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The shredding disk can shred all kinds of ingredients into small, even pieces. You can power through pounds of potatoes and other firm ingredients (like carrots) in just seconds. To make cleanup easier, spray the feed tube, disk, and workbowl with a light coating of vegetable oil spray before you begin to keep the ingredients from gumming up the shredding disk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>For recipes to make with your food processor tonight, go \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/guides/food-processor-perfection/recipes-to-make-now\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen's food processor recipes\u003c/a>! \u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/642-how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/124430/how-to-make-vegetable-prep-easier-with-your-food-processor","authors":["byline_bayareabites_124430"],"categories":["bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695"],"tags":["bayareabites_16048"],"featImg":"bayareabites_124434","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_124260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_124260","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"124260","score":null,"sort":[1515002028000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1515002028,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"What Does a Test Cook Eat All Day Anyway?","title":"What Does a Test Cook Eat All Day Anyway?","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Associate editor Russell Selander has been a member of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a> books team for three years, during which he's worked on more than a dozen of our \u003ca href=\"http://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/?sourcekey=CAHBDBSL0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">best-selling cookbooks\u003c/a>. His favorite books to work on have been \u003ca href=\"http://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/just-released-cook-it-in-cast-iron.html?sourcekey=CARTZCKA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cook it In Cast Iron\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/the-complete-mediterranean-cookbook.html?sourcekey=CARTZMMA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">T\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/the-complete-mediterranean-cookbook.html?sourcekey=CARTZMMA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">he Complete Mediterranean Cookbook\u003c/a>. He enjoys simple preparations—a fresh oyster with a few drops of lemon juice, or a humble plate of charcuterie, cheese, and bread.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>__________________________________________________________________\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Developing recipes for America's Test Kitchen's book team is a pleasure—I get to eat a wide array of delicious foods from cuisines from across the globe. One day we might be developing a recipe for Moroccan-style couscous, and the next we might be tasting several variations of classic lasagna. Every day is different, and that keeps things fresh and exciting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we get to sample a lot of different types of food during the recipe development process, we also must eat a \u003cem>lot \u003c/em>of everything we cook in order to zero in on the best possible version of a given recipe. Curious to know just how much I eat at work, I decided to keep a food diary for a week. The answer was—unsurprisingly—a ton.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Monday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I started my day with breakfast, which consisted of four \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/7554-perfect-fried-eggs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">over-easy eggs\u003c/a> and a cup of \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/541-supermarket-green-tea\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tea\u003c/a>. I prefer \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/581-supermarket-medium-roast-coffee\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">coffee\u003c/a>, but I’d taken a break for the week. I was feeling good. I was working at my desk on this particular day, so no recipe development for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up were some just-out-of-the oven biscuits made for our upcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Food-Processor-Perfection-Amazing-Powerful/dp/1940352908?tag=akoarticle-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor Perfection\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. A call came through on the intercom letting us know what book the tasting was for, and what recipe we were about to taste. With a little \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1619-supermarket-honey\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">honey\u003c/a> (or \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/230-raspberry-preserves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">jam\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/548-unsalted-butter\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">butter\u003c/a>), the biscuits were irresistible. I ate three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some time passed as I was working and we got a call for a tasting for another book we’re developing, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Make-Ahead-Cookbook-Appetizers-Desserts-500/dp/1940352886/?tag=akoarticle-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>The Complete Make-Ahead Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. A team member had mushroom and barley stew ready for tasting. This was a fresh version—we like to taste a freshly prepared version of a recipe first to hammer out any kinks like flavor, texture, sauciness, etc., and then we test how making it ahead affects the recipe. We’ll often then conduct a side-by-side tasting of a freshly made version and one made the day before, two days before, three days before, or frozen. This particular tasting was a little too dry to be called a stew—it was more of a rich barley salad with tender mushrooms. The flavors were fantastic, but it wouldn’t fit in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/browse/soups\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">soups and stews\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/a>chapter unless we changed it drastically. At that point it’s up to the editors to move it to another chapter, or cut it from the book entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another call: butternut squash puree for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. Delicious—hard to go wrong with a simple, yet flavorful, recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lunch time came and went, and I was too full to even notice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pasta bake with broccoli rabe for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>came next. While pasta bakes are not my thing, this was very tasty. The pasta was not completely blown out, albeit a little soft, and the broccoli rabe was just tender, but very bitter (as is expected). The chicken was overcooked and the pasta was not saucy enough. The recipe would need some more testing before it made it into the pages of the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At about 3:00 p.m. we got another call: \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=apple+pie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">apple\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=pumpkin+pie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pumpkin pie\u003c/a> (two of each pie) for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. We compared from-frozen apple and from-frozen pumpkin pies to their fresh counterparts. We thought the fresh were better, but the frozen pies were also up to snuff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back at my desk, I was contemplating whether I would eat any dinner that night when another call came in. More pasta bake with broccoli rabe! The chicken was overcooked again, so we opted to take it out and sub in sausage. Cooking it less wasn’t an option as the pasta and broccoli rabe would be too firm. Pre-cooking the pasta or broccoli rabe longer was an option, but more fussy and the recipe would not line up with other pasta bakes in the book. The sauciness was nice; the flavors were rich and deep. A lot of food, but just another Monday in the test kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124263\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124263\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852.jpeg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-520x292.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taco dip, anyone? \u003ccite>(Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Tuesday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I started the day with a large bowl of Frosted Mini-Wheats with milk, and a cup of tea, before getting to work in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At about 10:00 a.m., the Tastings and Testings team were testing watermelon slicers, so there were a lot of watermelon pieces up for grabs. I grabbed a large bowl—it was very good watermelon for that late in the season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.cookscountry.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Cook’s Country\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a> team was practicing their recipes for the filming of the 2017 television season in the kitchen. There were some extra \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1695-supermarket-parmesan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">parmesan\u003c/a>-cheese-crusted potatoes; I hovered by the tasting until it was okay to take one. I then took numbers two, three, and four.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lunch time came and there was a call for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=chili\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">chili\u003c/a> times two. We tasted fresh chili and day-old chili—not surprisingly, the day-old was a little better! The meat was slightly more tender and the flavors had more time to meld, adding depth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once we finished the chili, another team member had a tasting: pumpkin pie! Classic and super tasty, and the crust was still crunchy—nothing to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was a call for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: day-old roasted poblano soup. Everything about the soup was great—the corn was still toothsome, and the poblanos had not become slimy, but were still tender and potent. It’s a warm, slightly spiced, lean soup. Perfect for any season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> call. This time we ate baked pasta with sausage and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was super bitter—it was blanched instead of cooked in the pasta bake from raw. We liked the change from chicken to sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now it was my turn to force a bunch of team members to eat. I was testing a recipe for baked pasta with corn and tomatoes for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>. We ate it fresh—instead of day-old—the first time around. It was a little dry, and there was corn cooked with cream and pureed that resulted in an unappetizing pulp in the pasta. We wanted more tomatoes, which were delicious and balanced the richness of the cream with their tart bites. We decided taking out the laborious step of pureeing the corn would make the recipe easier. To keep the sauce flavorful, I’d instead cook the corn kernels in the cream briefly. We also decided I should add additional broth, double the amount of tomatoes, and double the amount of thyme. It seemed like a lot of big changes, but the recipe was close. Once we’re tweaking a little bit of flavor or adding a bit of this or subtracting a bit of that, that usually means the recipe is almost finished.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Wednesday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Lawman Johnson, one of my team members who is working on a different book—our upcoming \u003cem>\u003cstrong>Complete\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Slow Cooker\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book—made a heaping plate of steak and eggs for breakfast that was too much for him. I happily accepted half before heading into the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first call of the day was for day-old \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=tomato+soup\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tomato soup\u003c/a>. It tasted great, as expected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the second call of the day: garden vegetable pasta sauce. It was a little too loose—the sauce did not cling to the pasta. We liked the tomatoes, but thought we wanted some that didn’t completely break down. I headed back to the kitchen to make some tweaks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photo team put some \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=pizza\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pizza\u003c/a> onto the counter for anyone to eat. I made sure to grab a slice; it wasn’t long before the cutting board was picked clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next call was for another soup: roasted poblano, two days old. Still good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My next attempt at garden vegetable pasta sauce went a little better. The sauce was deeply flavored, but reserving some tomatoes to add in later meant less of them broke down which meant the sauce was less clingy to the pasta. We thought the amount of sauce was right, however, which means I was correct with the amount of vegetable broth I took out of the recipe. The bell peppers, carrots, and zucchini were all perfectly cooked and were a good size for eating with pasta. Umami-rich porcini mushrooms added good depth without making the sauce “mushroomy.” Someone suggested adding in cremini mushrooms instead, but we thought it might not work for a garden vegetable soup because you can’t really grow your own mushrooms. Sticking with porcinis, what I consider a pantry staple, seemed like the best route.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> biscotti was next up. It had the right consistency, texture, and flavor. I wish, pretentiously, I had had a little cappuccino to go with it. I grabbed a cup of tea, but it wasn’t the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final call was for truffles (the \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/597-dark-chocolate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">chocolate\u003c/a> kind) from the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book—not a bad way to end the day. I smuggled some home to my wife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124262\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124262\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542.jpeg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-520x292.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Here, I call my fellow book team members to come taste a plate of lamb meatballs. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Thursday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I ate leftover biscuits for breakfast with a cup of tea. I’d barely settled in before there was a call for roasted poblano soup. It was three days old and it was still great!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next tasting was for my garden vegetable pasta sauce, which I’d made the day before and refrigerated. It reheated without complication. We really thought the zucchini would be overcooked if reheated, but it wasn’t. People wanted me to grate parmesan and serve it with the pasta—cheese makes everything better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next call was for pesto pasta this time. One day-old, one fresh. The fresh version looked better, but they tasted exactly the same. When this is the case, there’s nothing left to do but continue tasting the dish day after day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came another tomato soup tasting—it stores well, I think this was its third day in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A call for a salad recipe for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book came through next! I was happy because it seemed like this might be a healthy day in the test kitchen. It was for Caesar salad. Not the most vegetable forward salad—but it was a salad nevertheless, and anchovies are healthy, right? Anyway, the dressing was two days old and the fish taste was getting stronger. Stirring in lemon juice helped dramatically. Croutons were tooth crackingly hard—it’s something we’d need to figure out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A call for a farro salad for the \u003cem>\u003cstrong>Make-Ahead\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> book came next. It was tasty, but the dressing became muted the longer it sat. We decided we should reserve some dressing for stirring into the salad when we wanted to taste it next, rather than dumping it all in at the beginning. We’d try that next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Tastings and Testings team were tasting more watermelons, so there were more watermelon cubes. I think I ate more than a watermelon’s worth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photo team then dropped some Beef Wellington off on the space on the counter where we put food that is up for grabs. It was incredible. I went back for seconds. And thirds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came a baked pasta call for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: baked ziti with mushrooms. It was flavorful, but we wanted it to be saucier. There was too much cream in it; it seemed too rich. We ate it again a little bit later. It seemed to us like it should be a weeknight dinner if it could be made that fast—that’s always a good sign. It was very flavorful the second time around. I had seconds, as did everyone else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124261\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124261\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712.jpeg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-520x292.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though I had a rough idea of the amount of food I eat each week in the test kitchen, keeping a diary brought it all into sharp focus. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Friday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Breakfast was an overpriced chocolate croissant from the bakery next to my home. I ate it with a cup of tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first call of the day was for biscuits from the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. They were perfect—I stashed a few away to take home to my wife. After a couple minutes, I ate two more. It seemed I’d be taking less home to my wife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Cook’s Country\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> team was testing their TV recipes again. This time it was fried peach hand pie. Spectacular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up: pesto pasta for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. It was the same story as the day before: the flavor was great, but the fresh one looked brighter green than the multi-day-old one. Again, it was still tasty and acceptable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The test cooks working on the soup chapter for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> then called for four soups. First was a roasted red pepper soup. It was great—absolutely one of my favorite soups (and I'm not just saying that because it's a make-ahead adaptation of a recipe I created for the \u003ca href=\"https://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/the-complete-mediterranean-cookbook.html?sourcekey=CARTZMMA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Complete Mediterranean\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a> book). Because of the bulgur, the day-old version was not as good—the bulgur absorbed too much liquid, got too big, and got too mushy. The solution was to keep the bulgur out and stir it in when reheating the soup. I took an extra bowl to snack on later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next soup was fish stew. It was a bit seafood-y—the fish flavor was getting stronger, but all the vegetables and flavors held up after a day. I asked if we could serve it with lemon wedges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next soup was \u003cem>posole\u003c/em>, a Mexican soup that often features hominy, which is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cooksscience.com/articles/feature/transforming-corn/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nixtamalized corn\u003c/a> (or corn treated with lye or slaked lime). Hominy is essentially corn kernels without their shell, and they puff up like popcorn when cooked. The soup was great—one of my favorites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final soup of the tasting was chickpea and escarole soup. It was the first time I’d tasted it, and it was very good. The chickpeas held up, the escarole added a pleasant bitterness, and the broth was very flavorful. A well-rounded soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I held a tasting next for my garden vegetable pasta again. This time we were tasting a from-frozen version. It did not go well. Somehow the zucchini was both mushy and chewy. (Guess you can’t freeze this one.) We decided we’d test a four day-old version the following Monday. (Update: It went so well, I secretly high-fived myself in my head.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, a call for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> salad chapter came through: \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1517-canned-white-beans\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">cannellini bean\u003c/a> salad with sherry vinegar and red peppers. Very flavorful. The beans were tender and rich with an acidic dressing—it was very pleasant. The day-old version needed a bit more sherry vinegar added in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>\u003cstrong>Cook’s Country\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> team left some unguarded pulled pork tacos in the kitchen. As I passed the tacos, I caught eyes with Steve Klise, one of the test kitchen’s staff photographers—we both snuck a taco or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We noticed the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Cook’s Country\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> team was busy tasting flank steak tacos, so we hovered around until their tasting was over. There was plenty left over. Another taco down the hatch. Both the tacos were fantastic. Which was better you ask? Two different beasts, my friend, but they were both perfect in their own right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another salad for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: lentil salad with \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/514-feta-cheese\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>feta\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and herbs. This one was exquisite. Rich, tender lentils, topped with briny feta, and covered in a fresh, herby vinaigrette. I definitely grabbed a pint container to take some home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, a nectarine and blackberry tart appeared on the counter. I wasn’t sure where it came from, but it didn’t matter. The slice I grabbed was bigger than my plate. I ate it like a big slice of pizza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the last call of the week for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: defrosted mushroom bolognese heated up and tossed with pasta. It was exactly the same as fresh—no textural or flavor differences. Success! Finally, it was time to clean up and head home for the weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/440-what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"124260 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=124260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/01/03/what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day-anyway/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":2949,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":55},"modified":1515002028,"excerpt":"One of America's Test Kitchen's test chefs kept track of everything he ate over the course of a week. ","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"One of America's Test Kitchen's test chefs kept track of everything he ate over the course of a week. ","title":"What Does a Test Cook Eat All Day Anyway? | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"What Does a Test Cook Eat All Day Anyway?","datePublished":"2018-01-03T09:53:48-08:00","dateModified":"2018-01-03T09:53:48-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day-anyway","status":"publish","nprByline":"Russell Selander, \u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/440-what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>","path":"/bayareabites/124260/what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day-anyway","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Associate editor Russell Selander has been a member of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a> books team for three years, during which he's worked on more than a dozen of our \u003ca href=\"http://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/?sourcekey=CAHBDBSL0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">best-selling cookbooks\u003c/a>. His favorite books to work on have been \u003ca href=\"http://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/just-released-cook-it-in-cast-iron.html?sourcekey=CARTZCKA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cook it In Cast Iron\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/the-complete-mediterranean-cookbook.html?sourcekey=CARTZMMA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">T\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/the-complete-mediterranean-cookbook.html?sourcekey=CARTZMMA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">he Complete Mediterranean Cookbook\u003c/a>. He enjoys simple preparations—a fresh oyster with a few drops of lemon juice, or a humble plate of charcuterie, cheese, and bread.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>__________________________________________________________________\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Developing recipes for America's Test Kitchen's book team is a pleasure—I get to eat a wide array of delicious foods from cuisines from across the globe. One day we might be developing a recipe for Moroccan-style couscous, and the next we might be tasting several variations of classic lasagna. Every day is different, and that keeps things fresh and exciting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we get to sample a lot of different types of food during the recipe development process, we also must eat a \u003cem>lot \u003c/em>of everything we cook in order to zero in on the best possible version of a given recipe. Curious to know just how much I eat at work, I decided to keep a food diary for a week. The answer was—unsurprisingly—a ton.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Monday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I started my day with breakfast, which consisted of four \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/7554-perfect-fried-eggs\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">over-easy eggs\u003c/a> and a cup of \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/541-supermarket-green-tea\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tea\u003c/a>. I prefer \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/581-supermarket-medium-roast-coffee\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">coffee\u003c/a>, but I’d taken a break for the week. I was feeling good. I was working at my desk on this particular day, so no recipe development for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up were some just-out-of-the oven biscuits made for our upcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Food-Processor-Perfection-Amazing-Powerful/dp/1940352908?tag=akoarticle-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor Perfection\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. A call came through on the intercom letting us know what book the tasting was for, and what recipe we were about to taste. With a little \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1619-supermarket-honey\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">honey\u003c/a> (or \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/230-raspberry-preserves\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">jam\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/548-unsalted-butter\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">butter\u003c/a>), the biscuits were irresistible. I ate three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some time passed as I was working and we got a call for a tasting for another book we’re developing, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Make-Ahead-Cookbook-Appetizers-Desserts-500/dp/1940352886/?tag=akoarticle-20\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>The Complete Make-Ahead Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. A team member had mushroom and barley stew ready for tasting. This was a fresh version—we like to taste a freshly prepared version of a recipe first to hammer out any kinks like flavor, texture, sauciness, etc., and then we test how making it ahead affects the recipe. We’ll often then conduct a side-by-side tasting of a freshly made version and one made the day before, two days before, three days before, or frozen. This particular tasting was a little too dry to be called a stew—it was more of a rich barley salad with tender mushrooms. The flavors were fantastic, but it wouldn’t fit in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/browse/soups\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">soups and stews\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/a>chapter unless we changed it drastically. At that point it’s up to the editors to move it to another chapter, or cut it from the book entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another call: butternut squash puree for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. Delicious—hard to go wrong with a simple, yet flavorful, recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lunch time came and went, and I was too full to even notice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pasta bake with broccoli rabe for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>came next. While pasta bakes are not my thing, this was very tasty. The pasta was not completely blown out, albeit a little soft, and the broccoli rabe was just tender, but very bitter (as is expected). The chicken was overcooked and the pasta was not saucy enough. The recipe would need some more testing before it made it into the pages of the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At about 3:00 p.m. we got another call: \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=apple+pie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">apple\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=pumpkin+pie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pumpkin pie\u003c/a> (two of each pie) for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. We compared from-frozen apple and from-frozen pumpkin pies to their fresh counterparts. We thought the fresh were better, but the frozen pies were also up to snuff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back at my desk, I was contemplating whether I would eat any dinner that night when another call came in. More pasta bake with broccoli rabe! The chicken was overcooked again, so we opted to take it out and sub in sausage. Cooking it less wasn’t an option as the pasta and broccoli rabe would be too firm. Pre-cooking the pasta or broccoli rabe longer was an option, but more fussy and the recipe would not line up with other pasta bakes in the book. The sauciness was nice; the flavors were rich and deep. A lot of food, but just another Monday in the test kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124263\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124263\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852.jpeg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Taco_Dip_6852-520x292.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taco dip, anyone? \u003ccite>(Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Tuesday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I started the day with a large bowl of Frosted Mini-Wheats with milk, and a cup of tea, before getting to work in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At about 10:00 a.m., the Tastings and Testings team were testing watermelon slicers, so there were a lot of watermelon pieces up for grabs. I grabbed a large bowl—it was very good watermelon for that late in the season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.cookscountry.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Cook’s Country\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a> team was practicing their recipes for the filming of the 2017 television season in the kitchen. There were some extra \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1695-supermarket-parmesan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">parmesan\u003c/a>-cheese-crusted potatoes; I hovered by the tasting until it was okay to take one. I then took numbers two, three, and four.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lunch time came and there was a call for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=chili\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">chili\u003c/a> times two. We tasted fresh chili and day-old chili—not surprisingly, the day-old was a little better! The meat was slightly more tender and the flavors had more time to meld, adding depth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once we finished the chili, another team member had a tasting: pumpkin pie! Classic and super tasty, and the crust was still crunchy—nothing to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was a call for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: day-old roasted poblano soup. Everything about the soup was great—the corn was still toothsome, and the poblanos had not become slimy, but were still tender and potent. It’s a warm, slightly spiced, lean soup. Perfect for any season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> call. This time we ate baked pasta with sausage and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was super bitter—it was blanched instead of cooked in the pasta bake from raw. We liked the change from chicken to sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now it was my turn to force a bunch of team members to eat. I was testing a recipe for baked pasta with corn and tomatoes for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>. We ate it fresh—instead of day-old—the first time around. It was a little dry, and there was corn cooked with cream and pureed that resulted in an unappetizing pulp in the pasta. We wanted more tomatoes, which were delicious and balanced the richness of the cream with their tart bites. We decided taking out the laborious step of pureeing the corn would make the recipe easier. To keep the sauce flavorful, I’d instead cook the corn kernels in the cream briefly. We also decided I should add additional broth, double the amount of tomatoes, and double the amount of thyme. It seemed like a lot of big changes, but the recipe was close. Once we’re tweaking a little bit of flavor or adding a bit of this or subtracting a bit of that, that usually means the recipe is almost finished.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Wednesday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Lawman Johnson, one of my team members who is working on a different book—our upcoming \u003cem>\u003cstrong>Complete\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Slow Cooker\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book—made a heaping plate of steak and eggs for breakfast that was too much for him. I happily accepted half before heading into the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first call of the day was for day-old \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=tomato+soup\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">tomato soup\u003c/a>. It tasted great, as expected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the second call of the day: garden vegetable pasta sauce. It was a little too loose—the sauce did not cling to the pasta. We liked the tomatoes, but thought we wanted some that didn’t completely break down. I headed back to the kitchen to make some tweaks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photo team put some \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/search?dFR%5Bsearch_site_list%5D%5B0%5D=atk&display_format=grid&fR%5Bsearch_document_klass%5D%5B0%5D=recipe&q=pizza\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">pizza\u003c/a> onto the counter for anyone to eat. I made sure to grab a slice; it wasn’t long before the cutting board was picked clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next call was for another soup: roasted poblano, two days old. Still good!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My next attempt at garden vegetable pasta sauce went a little better. The sauce was deeply flavored, but reserving some tomatoes to add in later meant less of them broke down which meant the sauce was less clingy to the pasta. We thought the amount of sauce was right, however, which means I was correct with the amount of vegetable broth I took out of the recipe. The bell peppers, carrots, and zucchini were all perfectly cooked and were a good size for eating with pasta. Umami-rich porcini mushrooms added good depth without making the sauce “mushroomy.” Someone suggested adding in cremini mushrooms instead, but we thought it might not work for a garden vegetable soup because you can’t really grow your own mushrooms. Sticking with porcinis, what I consider a pantry staple, seemed like the best route.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> biscotti was next up. It had the right consistency, texture, and flavor. I wish, pretentiously, I had had a little cappuccino to go with it. I grabbed a cup of tea, but it wasn’t the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final call was for truffles (the \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/597-dark-chocolate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">chocolate\u003c/a> kind) from the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book—not a bad way to end the day. I smuggled some home to my wife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124262\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124262\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542.jpeg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_LambMeatballs_6542-520x292.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Here, I call my fellow book team members to come taste a plate of lamb meatballs. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Thursday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>I ate leftover biscuits for breakfast with a cup of tea. I’d barely settled in before there was a call for roasted poblano soup. It was three days old and it was still great!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next tasting was for my garden vegetable pasta sauce, which I’d made the day before and refrigerated. It reheated without complication. We really thought the zucchini would be overcooked if reheated, but it wasn’t. People wanted me to grate parmesan and serve it with the pasta—cheese makes everything better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next call was for pesto pasta this time. One day-old, one fresh. The fresh version looked better, but they tasted exactly the same. When this is the case, there’s nothing left to do but continue tasting the dish day after day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came another tomato soup tasting—it stores well, I think this was its third day in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A call for a salad recipe for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book came through next! I was happy because it seemed like this might be a healthy day in the test kitchen. It was for Caesar salad. Not the most vegetable forward salad—but it was a salad nevertheless, and anchovies are healthy, right? Anyway, the dressing was two days old and the fish taste was getting stronger. Stirring in lemon juice helped dramatically. Croutons were tooth crackingly hard—it’s something we’d need to figure out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A call for a farro salad for the \u003cem>\u003cstrong>Make-Ahead\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> book came next. It was tasty, but the dressing became muted the longer it sat. We decided we should reserve some dressing for stirring into the salad when we wanted to taste it next, rather than dumping it all in at the beginning. We’d try that next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Tastings and Testings team were tasting more watermelons, so there were more watermelon cubes. I think I ate more than a watermelon’s worth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photo team then dropped some Beef Wellington off on the space on the counter where we put food that is up for grabs. It was incredible. I went back for seconds. And thirds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came a baked pasta call for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: baked ziti with mushrooms. It was flavorful, but we wanted it to be saucier. There was too much cream in it; it seemed too rich. We ate it again a little bit later. It seemed to us like it should be a weeknight dinner if it could be made that fast—that’s always a good sign. It was very flavorful the second time around. I had seconds, as did everyone else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124261\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124261\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712.jpeg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-240x135.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-375x211.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/CAN_Fish_Tacos-1712-520x292.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though I had a rough idea of the amount of food I eat each week in the test kitchen, keeping a diary brought it all into sharp focus. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Friday\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Breakfast was an overpriced chocolate croissant from the bakery next to my home. I ate it with a cup of tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first call of the day was for biscuits from the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Food Processor\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. They were perfect—I stashed a few away to take home to my wife. After a couple minutes, I ate two more. It seemed I’d be taking less home to my wife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Cook’s Country\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> team was testing their TV recipes again. This time it was fried peach hand pie. Spectacular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up: pesto pasta for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> book. It was the same story as the day before: the flavor was great, but the fresh one looked brighter green than the multi-day-old one. Again, it was still tasty and acceptable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The test cooks working on the soup chapter for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> then called for four soups. First was a roasted red pepper soup. It was great—absolutely one of my favorite soups (and I'm not just saying that because it's a make-ahead adaptation of a recipe I created for the \u003ca href=\"https://americastestkitchen.buysub.com/homepage/the-complete-mediterranean-cookbook.html?sourcekey=CARTZMMA0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Complete Mediterranean\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a> book). Because of the bulgur, the day-old version was not as good—the bulgur absorbed too much liquid, got too big, and got too mushy. The solution was to keep the bulgur out and stir it in when reheating the soup. I took an extra bowl to snack on later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next soup was fish stew. It was a bit seafood-y—the fish flavor was getting stronger, but all the vegetables and flavors held up after a day. I asked if we could serve it with lemon wedges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next soup was \u003cem>posole\u003c/em>, a Mexican soup that often features hominy, which is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cooksscience.com/articles/feature/transforming-corn/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">nixtamalized corn\u003c/a> (or corn treated with lye or slaked lime). Hominy is essentially corn kernels without their shell, and they puff up like popcorn when cooked. The soup was great—one of my favorites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The final soup of the tasting was chickpea and escarole soup. It was the first time I’d tasted it, and it was very good. The chickpeas held up, the escarole added a pleasant bitterness, and the broth was very flavorful. A well-rounded soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I held a tasting next for my garden vegetable pasta again. This time we were tasting a from-frozen version. It did not go well. Somehow the zucchini was both mushy and chewy. (Guess you can’t freeze this one.) We decided we’d test a four day-old version the following Monday. (Update: It went so well, I secretly high-fived myself in my head.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, a call for the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> salad chapter came through: \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1517-canned-white-beans\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">cannellini bean\u003c/a> salad with sherry vinegar and red peppers. Very flavorful. The beans were tender and rich with an acidic dressing—it was very pleasant. The day-old version needed a bit more sherry vinegar added in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>\u003cstrong>Cook’s Country\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> team left some unguarded pulled pork tacos in the kitchen. As I passed the tacos, I caught eyes with Steve Klise, one of the test kitchen’s staff photographers—we both snuck a taco or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We noticed the \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Cook’s Country\u003c/em>\u003c/strong> team was busy tasting flank steak tacos, so we hovered around until their tasting was over. There was plenty left over. Another taco down the hatch. Both the tacos were fantastic. Which was better you ask? Two different beasts, my friend, but they were both perfect in their own right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another salad for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: lentil salad with \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/514-feta-cheese\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>feta\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and herbs. This one was exquisite. Rich, tender lentils, topped with briny feta, and covered in a fresh, herby vinaigrette. I definitely grabbed a pint container to take some home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, a nectarine and blackberry tart appeared on the counter. I wasn’t sure where it came from, but it didn’t matter. The slice I grabbed was bigger than my plate. I ate it like a big slice of pizza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I made the last call of the week for \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Make-Ahead\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>: defrosted mushroom bolognese heated up and tossed with pasta. It was exactly the same as fresh—no textural or flavor differences. Success! Finally, it was time to clean up and head home for the weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/440-what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">America's Test Kitchen\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/124260/what-does-a-test-cook-eat-all-day-anyway","authors":["byline_bayareabites_124260"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588"],"tags":["bayareabites_12147","bayareabites_14758","bayareabites_16044"],"featImg":"bayareabites_124264","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_121828":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_121828","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"121828","score":null,"sort":[1508579313000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1508579313,"format":"audio","disqusTitle":"In New Cookbook, Acclaimed Indian Restaurant Rasika Finally Spills Its Secrets","title":"In New Cookbook, Acclaimed Indian Restaurant Rasika Finally Spills Its Secrets","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/10/20171018_atc_in_new_cookbook_acclaimed_indian_restaurant_finally_spills_its_secrets.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika, an Indian restaurant in Washington, D.C., has won just about every recognition possible. \u003cem>The Washington Post\u003c/em> called it the No. 1 restaurant in the city. The chef has won a James Beard award — basically the Oscars of the food world. President Obama celebrated his birthday there — twice. And though the place has been open for more than a decade, it is only just now coming out with a cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121834\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 308px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rasika Flavors of India by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\" width=\"308\" height=\"389\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg 308w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-240x303.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 308px) 100vw, 308px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/558585080/rasika-flavors-of-india\">Rasika\u003c/a>\u003cbr>Flavors of India\u003cbr>by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rasika's owner, Ashok Bajaj, has run high-end restaurants in Washington since the 1980s — places where you might spot a senator or even the president. He had a fancy Indian restaurant in London, called Bombay Brasserie, but when he first tried to do something similar in D.C., he ran into walls. Every landlord told his location scout, \"We don't want our lobby to smell like curry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And I would say, put me in front of the landlord, let me talk to them,\" Bajaj says. \"It is no different than an Italian restaurant or an American restaurant, where you use a lot of garlic and other spices. And see how the cuisine has changed now? In most American restaurants, they use Indian spices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika takes a modern approach to traditional Indian flavors. The cookbook, \u003cem>Rasika: Flavors of India\u003c/em>, has recipes for Kerala bison and rhubarb chutney. Traditional flavor combinations get a modern twist. A classic dish of eggplant and potatoes comes stacked in an elegant tower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One trick of the cookbook is that a lot of stuff can be made in advance: Marinade the eggplant, mash the potatoes, simmer the sauce. When it's time to actually make dinner, it just takes a few minutes to heat and assemble everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Rasika's most popular dish, \u003cem>palak chaat\u003c/em>, needs to be prepared the moment before it's served. \u003cem>Palak\u003c/em> means spinach. \u003cem>Chaat\u003c/em> is a Hindi word for a bunch of different flavorful snacks. The restaurant has never revealed the recipe for the famous crispy spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Vikram Sunderam says they were always waiting for the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in the Rasika kitchen, he agrees to show us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important step in the dish is the frying,\" Sunderam says, explaining that the oil needs to be exactly 400 degrees — more and the spinach will burn, less and it'll get greasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also makes a beautiful yellow-orange batter with gram flour, turmeric and chili powder. He pours this over the spinach, almost like a salad dressing, and lightly tosses it. Once the spinach is perfectly crispy, it gets a cascade of toppings, including roasted cumin powder, chili powder and black salt; drizzles of yogurt and tamarind chutney; and sprinkles of chopped red onion and tomatoes. The restaurant makes about 200 bowls of this a day — every other table orders it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunderam tried to do something similar at a London restaurant, but it wasn't a hit. \"It wasn't as popular as it is here,\" he says. \"From day one it took off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think Americans are more adventurous,\" he says. \"They're more appreciative of the food and dishes like these, which are different.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121830\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/fullsizerender_vert-87a07504f84d232308281d0e35a353c26d15ced8-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, palak chaat, or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-large wp-image-121830\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, \u003cem>palak chaat,\u003c/em> or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam. \u003ccite>(Ari Shapiro/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And in Indian cuisine, there is plenty of room for adventure and creativity. \"Indian cuisine is a very personal cuisine. It's made from family to family, how they like to cook,\" says Sunderam. \"So there is the basic foundation of a dish, but it's always personalized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the sheer number of ingredients in Indian recipes can be daunting to home cooks. But Bajaj says it isn't difficult if you have the right pantry at home. Sunderam agrees, pointing out that the book helps with setting up an Indian pantry, with basic spices like cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, turmeric and cumin — all of which are widely used in Indian recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Bajaj: \"Don't be afraid of the spices!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bajaj says the acceptance of Indian food is generally much wider than it used to be when he opened his first restaurant more than 25 years ago. He credits this partly to the explosion of the Internet, but also says that many people are now traveling to India and coming back with a new appreciation for the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he says that younger generations are more open to trying foods of other cultures. \"They want to have an experience, and it doesn't have to be a French cuisine, or American or Italian. It can be any cuisine, as long as it has the flavor and the taste — the whole package is there.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"121828 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=121828","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/10/21/in-new-cookbook-acclaimed-indian-restaurant-rasika-finally-spills-its-secrets/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":830,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":22},"modified":1508579313,"excerpt":"Rasika, a top eatery in Washington, D.C., is famous for its crispy spinach and modern twists on classic dishes. Now the owner and chef are sharing some of their prized — and adventurous — recipes.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Rasika, a top eatery in Washington, D.C., is famous for its crispy spinach and modern twists on classic dishes. Now the owner and chef are sharing some of their prized — and adventurous — recipes.","title":"In New Cookbook, Acclaimed Indian Restaurant Rasika Finally Spills Its Secrets | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"In New Cookbook, Acclaimed Indian Restaurant Rasika Finally Spills Its Secrets","datePublished":"2017-10-21T02:48:33-07:00","dateModified":"2017-10-21T02:48:33-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-new-cookbook-acclaimed-indian-restaurant-rasika-finally-spills-its-secrets","status":"publish","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=558350731&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Ari Shapiro, NPR Food","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 18 Oct 2017 15:28:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:14:57 -0400","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/10/18/558350731/in-new-cookbook-acclaimed-indian-restaurant-finally-spills-its-secrets?ft=nprml&f=558350731","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/10/20171018_atc_in_new_cookbook_acclaimed_indian_restaurant_finally_spills_its_secrets.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=311&p=2&story=558350731&t=progseg&e=558477237&seg=19&ft=nprml&f=558350731","nprImageAgency":"NPR","nprImageCredit":"Ari Shapiro","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1558614430-8538c5.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=311&p=2&story=558350731&t=progseg&e=558477237&seg=19&ft=nprml&f=558350731","nprStoryId":"558350731","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 18 Oct 2017 20:18:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/121828/in-new-cookbook-acclaimed-indian-restaurant-rasika-finally-spills-its-secrets","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/10/20171018_atc_in_new_cookbook_acclaimed_indian_restaurant_finally_spills_its_secrets.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=311&p=2&story=558350731&t=progseg&e=558477237&seg=19&ft=nprml&f=558350731","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/10/20171018_atc_in_new_cookbook_acclaimed_indian_restaurant_finally_spills_its_secrets.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika, an Indian restaurant in Washington, D.C., has won just about every recognition possible. \u003cem>The Washington Post\u003c/em> called it the No. 1 restaurant in the city. The chef has won a James Beard award — basically the Oscars of the food world. President Obama celebrated his birthday there — twice. And though the place has been open for more than a decade, it is only just now coming out with a cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121834\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 308px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rasika Flavors of India by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\" width=\"308\" height=\"389\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg 308w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-240x303.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 308px) 100vw, 308px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/558585080/rasika-flavors-of-india\">Rasika\u003c/a>\u003cbr>Flavors of India\u003cbr>by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rasika's owner, Ashok Bajaj, has run high-end restaurants in Washington since the 1980s — places where you might spot a senator or even the president. He had a fancy Indian restaurant in London, called Bombay Brasserie, but when he first tried to do something similar in D.C., he ran into walls. Every landlord told his location scout, \"We don't want our lobby to smell like curry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And I would say, put me in front of the landlord, let me talk to them,\" Bajaj says. \"It is no different than an Italian restaurant or an American restaurant, where you use a lot of garlic and other spices. And see how the cuisine has changed now? In most American restaurants, they use Indian spices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika takes a modern approach to traditional Indian flavors. The cookbook, \u003cem>Rasika: Flavors of India\u003c/em>, has recipes for Kerala bison and rhubarb chutney. Traditional flavor combinations get a modern twist. A classic dish of eggplant and potatoes comes stacked in an elegant tower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One trick of the cookbook is that a lot of stuff can be made in advance: Marinade the eggplant, mash the potatoes, simmer the sauce. When it's time to actually make dinner, it just takes a few minutes to heat and assemble everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Rasika's most popular dish, \u003cem>palak chaat\u003c/em>, needs to be prepared the moment before it's served. \u003cem>Palak\u003c/em> means spinach. \u003cem>Chaat\u003c/em> is a Hindi word for a bunch of different flavorful snacks. The restaurant has never revealed the recipe for the famous crispy spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Vikram Sunderam says they were always waiting for the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in the Rasika kitchen, he agrees to show us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important step in the dish is the frying,\" Sunderam says, explaining that the oil needs to be exactly 400 degrees — more and the spinach will burn, less and it'll get greasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also makes a beautiful yellow-orange batter with gram flour, turmeric and chili powder. He pours this over the spinach, almost like a salad dressing, and lightly tosses it. Once the spinach is perfectly crispy, it gets a cascade of toppings, including roasted cumin powder, chili powder and black salt; drizzles of yogurt and tamarind chutney; and sprinkles of chopped red onion and tomatoes. The restaurant makes about 200 bowls of this a day — every other table orders it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunderam tried to do something similar at a London restaurant, but it wasn't a hit. \"It wasn't as popular as it is here,\" he says. \"From day one it took off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think Americans are more adventurous,\" he says. \"They're more appreciative of the food and dishes like these, which are different.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121830\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/fullsizerender_vert-87a07504f84d232308281d0e35a353c26d15ced8-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, palak chaat, or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-large wp-image-121830\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, \u003cem>palak chaat,\u003c/em> or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam. \u003ccite>(Ari Shapiro/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And in Indian cuisine, there is plenty of room for adventure and creativity. \"Indian cuisine is a very personal cuisine. It's made from family to family, how they like to cook,\" says Sunderam. \"So there is the basic foundation of a dish, but it's always personalized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the sheer number of ingredients in Indian recipes can be daunting to home cooks. But Bajaj says it isn't difficult if you have the right pantry at home. Sunderam agrees, pointing out that the book helps with setting up an Indian pantry, with basic spices like cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, turmeric and cumin — all of which are widely used in Indian recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Bajaj: \"Don't be afraid of the spices!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bajaj says the acceptance of Indian food is generally much wider than it used to be when he opened his first restaurant more than 25 years ago. He credits this partly to the explosion of the Internet, but also says that many people are now traveling to India and coming back with a new appreciation for the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he says that younger generations are more open to trying foods of other cultures. \"They want to have an experience, and it doesn't have to be a French cuisine, or American or Italian. It can be any cuisine, as long as it has the flavor and the taste — the whole package is there.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/121828/in-new-cookbook-acclaimed-indian-restaurant-rasika-finally-spills-its-secrets","authors":["byline_bayareabites_121828"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588"],"tags":["bayareabites_15993","bayareabites_9401"],"featImg":"bayareabites_121829","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_121453":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_121453","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"121453","score":null,"sort":[1507527395000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1507527395,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook","title":"A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>Although she'd never cooked until her early thirties, food was always an integral part of Archana Pidathala's life. The author of the self-published cookbook, \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, shortlisted earlier this year for the 2017 \u003ca href=\"https://artofeating.com/prize/?pgnc=1\">Art of Eating Prize\u003c/a>, cherishes memories of long, languid summers spent at her grandmother's home in the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother, Nirmala Reddy, a cookbook author herself, asked her grandchildren every day what they wanted to eat for each meal. \"She never once complained or felt overwhelmed by the incredible amount of cooking she did for us. And she always prepared all the dishes we asked for,\" recalls Pidathala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pidathala says her favorite recipes from \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em> have the power to instantly transport her to back those blissful summer afternoons. Sometimes, she would watch as her grandmother chopped vegetables and crushed spices on a stone pestle, releasing a fragrance that stirred her appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>pachchi pulusu\u003c/em> (a tangy peanut stew), the \u003cem>anapaginjala pulusu\u003c/em> (a hyacinth bean curry that her grandma loved) and her own personal favorite, the \u003cem>ulava charu\u003c/em> (a slow-cooked, thick stew made from horse gram beans) were the flavors of her childhood. It was the eggplant biryani, however, that always brought home to her the ingenuity of her grandmother's cooking. \"It was perfected after years of trial and improvisation,\" she says. \"No special occasion in our family is complete without serving this dish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1049\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121463\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The biryani calls for a rich curry thickened by sesame seeds, dried coconut and an array of Indian spices. The curry is then stuffed into an eggplant and slow-cooked. It turns out intensely aromatic, surprisingly light and bursting with flavor and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At mealtimes during those summer afternoons in Hyderabad, Pidathala remembers gathering the children of her family close while her grandmother lovingly ladled food onto one large plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal eating in this way wasn't uncommon in India. It happens in many families, though it is getting rarer today,\" Pidathala says. \"These early experiences brought home to me how food can nourish the soul as much as the body, how it can create enduring bonds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The five morsels in the book's title refers to these cousins, who bonded over such exquisite meals. They're represented in the recurring motif of the five grains of rice that prance across the soft yellow cloth-bound cover like snowflakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother's death in 2007, barely nine weeks after she was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, devastated the family. Pidathala, who had recently moved hundreds of miles away to Bengaluru to begin a career in IT, particularly reeled after the loss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had always promised her we'd work together on an English translation of her cookbook, written in Telugu [a language native to Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana],\" says Pidathala. The simple paperback had seen three print runs since it was published in 1974. It was the kind of book that emigrants sought to carry back with them overseas. By offering an authentic taste of home, it helped them ache less for what they'd left behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Ammamma\u003c/em>, as I called her, had always wanted to reach out to a much wider audience, but I thought I had all the time in the world to make that happen,\" Pidathala says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121464\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg\" alt=\"Today, Pidathala, author of <em>Five Morsels of Love</em>, is also an accomplished chef. "Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking," she says.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121464\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Today, Pidathala, author of \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, is also an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She spent the next few years immersed in the hundreds of recipes that her grandmother had painstakingly documented. They were everywhere — including on the backs of medical prescriptions and withered wedding invitations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Deciding to translate parts of the original cookbook first, she added recipes that were childhood favorites. However, she struggled to quantify ingredients — something that her grandmother, like most other Indian cooks, did with instinctive ease. \"I had no idea that recipe writing could be so nuanced,\" Pidathala laughs. \"It was a fascinating journey, and every day, I was learning something new. But I had to measure and cook each recipe several times to perfect it. For someone who had never cooked before — that was the real challenge.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2013, with help from a friend, Bengaluru-based food blogger Chinmayie Bhat (who shot the photos for the book), she tried out dozens of recipes over the weekends. When the cook who had her helped her grandmother through the years visited Pidathala, the trio made a formidable team — they prepared and photographed 60 dishes in 5 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And remarkably, a book that focuses on a tiny slice of Indian cuisine — the fiery, chili-laden food native to the state of Andhra Pradesh — soon made an impression on people from around the world after it was self-published in May 2016. Pidathala personally shipped the book to readers in 40 countries. It was also stocked internationally by niche and indie bookstores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chen Kariv, a graphic designer and her friend, Hili Enzel, a high school teacher, were the first from Tel Aviv, Israel, to order the book from the author's web site. \"Hili and I are food enthusiasts, and cooking meals is our way of hanging out together,\" says Kariv. \"At first it was a challenge to identify all the special ingredients. It was a very different [cuisine] from what we know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The duo were soon cooking for their friends. \"It's a great way to explore other cultures, by trying to learn their flavors,\" says Kariv.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Pidathala is an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she ponders over writing a second cookbook, culled from her grandmother's notes over the years, she's grateful for reclaiming the kitchen as a place that embodies creativity, self-expression and love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kamala Thiagarajan is a freelance journalist based in Madurai, South India. Her work has appeared in \u003c/em>The International New York Times\u003cem>, \u003c/em>BBC Travel\u003cem> and \u003c/em>Forbes India. \u003cem>You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/kamal_t?lang=en\">@kamal_t\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"121453 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=121453","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/10/08/a-granddaughters-powerful-love-story-told-through-an-indian-cookbook/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":1057,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":23},"modified":1507527395,"excerpt":"The author of \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em> fondly remembers summers at her grandmother's house, where home-cooked meals nourished both body and soul. Now, she wants to share that culinary passion with others.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"The author of Five Morsels of Love fondly remembers summers at her grandmother's house, where home-cooked meals nourished both body and soul. Now, she wants to share that culinary passion with others.","title":"A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook","datePublished":"2017-10-08T22:36:35-07:00","dateModified":"2017-10-08T22:36:35-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-granddaughters-powerful-love-story-told-through-an-indian-cookbook","status":"publish","nprByline":"Kamala Thiagarajan, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/contributors/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Courtesy of Archana Pidathala","path":"/bayareabites/121453/a-granddaughters-powerful-love-story-told-through-an-indian-cookbook","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Although she'd never cooked until her early thirties, food was always an integral part of Archana Pidathala's life. The author of the self-published cookbook, \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, shortlisted earlier this year for the 2017 \u003ca href=\"https://artofeating.com/prize/?pgnc=1\">Art of Eating Prize\u003c/a>, cherishes memories of long, languid summers spent at her grandmother's home in the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother, Nirmala Reddy, a cookbook author herself, asked her grandchildren every day what they wanted to eat for each meal. \"She never once complained or felt overwhelmed by the incredible amount of cooking she did for us. And she always prepared all the dishes we asked for,\" recalls Pidathala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pidathala says her favorite recipes from \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em> have the power to instantly transport her to back those blissful summer afternoons. Sometimes, she would watch as her grandmother chopped vegetables and crushed spices on a stone pestle, releasing a fragrance that stirred her appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>pachchi pulusu\u003c/em> (a tangy peanut stew), the \u003cem>anapaginjala pulusu\u003c/em> (a hyacinth bean curry that her grandma loved) and her own personal favorite, the \u003cem>ulava charu\u003c/em> (a slow-cooked, thick stew made from horse gram beans) were the flavors of her childhood. It was the eggplant biryani, however, that always brought home to her the ingenuity of her grandmother's cooking. \"It was perfected after years of trial and improvisation,\" she says. \"No special occasion in our family is complete without serving this dish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1049\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121463\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The biryani calls for a rich curry thickened by sesame seeds, dried coconut and an array of Indian spices. The curry is then stuffed into an eggplant and slow-cooked. It turns out intensely aromatic, surprisingly light and bursting with flavor and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At mealtimes during those summer afternoons in Hyderabad, Pidathala remembers gathering the children of her family close while her grandmother lovingly ladled food onto one large plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal eating in this way wasn't uncommon in India. It happens in many families, though it is getting rarer today,\" Pidathala says. \"These early experiences brought home to me how food can nourish the soul as much as the body, how it can create enduring bonds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The five morsels in the book's title refers to these cousins, who bonded over such exquisite meals. They're represented in the recurring motif of the five grains of rice that prance across the soft yellow cloth-bound cover like snowflakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother's death in 2007, barely nine weeks after she was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, devastated the family. Pidathala, who had recently moved hundreds of miles away to Bengaluru to begin a career in IT, particularly reeled after the loss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had always promised her we'd work together on an English translation of her cookbook, written in Telugu [a language native to Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana],\" says Pidathala. The simple paperback had seen three print runs since it was published in 1974. It was the kind of book that emigrants sought to carry back with them overseas. By offering an authentic taste of home, it helped them ache less for what they'd left behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Ammamma\u003c/em>, as I called her, had always wanted to reach out to a much wider audience, but I thought I had all the time in the world to make that happen,\" Pidathala says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121464\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg\" alt=\"Today, Pidathala, author of <em>Five Morsels of Love</em>, is also an accomplished chef. "Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking," she says.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121464\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Today, Pidathala, author of \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, is also an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She spent the next few years immersed in the hundreds of recipes that her grandmother had painstakingly documented. They were everywhere — including on the backs of medical prescriptions and withered wedding invitations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Deciding to translate parts of the original cookbook first, she added recipes that were childhood favorites. However, she struggled to quantify ingredients — something that her grandmother, like most other Indian cooks, did with instinctive ease. \"I had no idea that recipe writing could be so nuanced,\" Pidathala laughs. \"It was a fascinating journey, and every day, I was learning something new. But I had to measure and cook each recipe several times to perfect it. For someone who had never cooked before — that was the real challenge.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2013, with help from a friend, Bengaluru-based food blogger Chinmayie Bhat (who shot the photos for the book), she tried out dozens of recipes over the weekends. When the cook who had her helped her grandmother through the years visited Pidathala, the trio made a formidable team — they prepared and photographed 60 dishes in 5 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And remarkably, a book that focuses on a tiny slice of Indian cuisine — the fiery, chili-laden food native to the state of Andhra Pradesh — soon made an impression on people from around the world after it was self-published in May 2016. Pidathala personally shipped the book to readers in 40 countries. It was also stocked internationally by niche and indie bookstores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chen Kariv, a graphic designer and her friend, Hili Enzel, a high school teacher, were the first from Tel Aviv, Israel, to order the book from the author's web site. \"Hili and I are food enthusiasts, and cooking meals is our way of hanging out together,\" says Kariv. \"At first it was a challenge to identify all the special ingredients. It was a very different [cuisine] from what we know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The duo were soon cooking for their friends. \"It's a great way to explore other cultures, by trying to learn their flavors,\" says Kariv.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Pidathala is an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she ponders over writing a second cookbook, culled from her grandmother's notes over the years, she's grateful for reclaiming the kitchen as a place that embodies creativity, self-expression and love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kamala Thiagarajan is a freelance journalist based in Madurai, South India. Her work has appeared in \u003c/em>The International New York Times\u003cem>, \u003c/em>BBC Travel\u003cem> and \u003c/em>Forbes India. \u003cem>You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/kamal_t?lang=en\">@kamal_t\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/121453/a-granddaughters-powerful-love-story-told-through-an-indian-cookbook","authors":["byline_bayareabites_121453"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588"],"tags":["bayareabites_8435"],"featImg":"bayareabites_121454","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_119634":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_119634","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"119634","score":null,"sort":[1502040073000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1502040073,"format":"standard","disqusTitle":"Chris Bianco, 'Pizza Yoda,' Is Sharing His Wisdom In A New Cookbook, He Is","title":"Chris Bianco, 'Pizza Yoda,' Is Sharing His Wisdom In A New Cookbook, He Is","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>It's 8 a.m. on a Thursday in the empty dining room of Sessanta, an Italian restaurant in the New York City hotel Sixty SoHo, and Chris Bianco, the Arizona chef widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement, is running on adrenaline and just a few hours of sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh my goodness, it was a cavalcade of who's who,\" Bianco says, with mock seriousness, of the dinner party he flew in from Phoenix to host in this very space the previous evening, to celebrate the July release of his long-awaited first book,\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bianco-Pizza-Pasta-Other-Food/dp/0062224379/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1501686431&sr=1-1&keywords=bianco+pizza%2C+pasta%2C+and+other+food+i+like\">Bianco: Pizza, Pasta, and Other Food I Like\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were a lot of friends,\" from the food world, he says. And possibly \"just some people who were hungry and someone dragged them to the dinner and they probably thought there would be pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bite-sized focaccia squares were the closest thing to pizza on the four-course menu. Likewise, while Bianco's eponymous cookbook includes dough, sauce and pizza recipes, it expands beyond pizza to reflect his evolution as a chef and restaurateur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza, of course, is what put Bianco on the culinary map. Since starting \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/\">Pizzeria Bianco\u003c/a> in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, his thin-crust wood-fired pizza has consistently won accolades. In 2003, Bianco became the first pizza maker to receive a regional James Beard Award (Best Chef, Southwest). \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/07/dining/the-road-to-pizza-nirvana-goes-through-phoenix.html?_r=0\">The New York \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> lauded Bianco for \"making what just might be the best pizza in America.\" Food critic Jeffrey Steingarten, in Ed Levine's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pizza-Slice-Heaven-Ultimate-Companion/dp/B008SMUC0K\">Pizza: A Slice of Heaven\u003c/a>,\u003c/em> went further: \"Chris [Bianco] makes the finest pizzas in the United States and, in all frankness, the world.\" Because of Bianco, the Valley of the Sun has become a mecca for the pizza obsessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in the day, people used to go through my trash to find out what tomatoes we used — 'That must be the secret!' — or the flour — 'That's the secret!,'\" Bianco says, taking a sip of black coffee. \"I was like, dude, you want tomatoes? Here's a can.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you asked me, I told you anything,\" Bianco adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, Bianco has mentored and inspired pizza makers from across the country, including Paul Giannone, of \u003ca href=\"http://pauliegee.com/\">Paulie Gee's\u003c/a>, in Brooklyn; Brandon Pettit, of \u003ca href=\"http://delanceyseattle.com/\">Delancey\u003c/a>, in Seattle; and Nancy Silverton, of \u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriamozza.com/\">Pizzeria Mozza\u003c/a>, in Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119644\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement.\" width=\"600\" height=\"899\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119644\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-375x562.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"He's like a pizza Yoda, Chris is,\" says Adam Kuban, founder of the pizza blog \u003ca href=\"http://slice.seriouseats.com/\">Slice\u003c/a>, which is now part of the website Serious Eats. \"I think when pizza makers go to him, it's not so much how to learn to make pizza, it's just to kind of absorb this knowledge. It's almost like going to a Buddhist temple or something and taking in the knowledge and then applying that knowledge to what you do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Matthew Lyons, of \u003ca href=\"http://tributepizza.com/\">Tribute Pizza\u003c/a>, in San Diego, calls Bianco \"a very amicable cult leader.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just this cult of, like, caring an unreasonable amount about food and ingredients and people,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in the Bronx, Bianco is 55 and stocky, neither tall nor short, with a warm smile and pewter-colored hair that stands up in waves in the style of a mad scientist. He moved to Arizona when he was in his 20s, and in 1988 leased space in a gourmet market in order to start a pizza-making operation. In 1996, Pizzeria Bianco settled into its flagship location, a Prohibition-era red brick building in downtown Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Bianco's realm includes a second Pizzeria Bianco location; \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/bar-bianco/\">Bar Bianco\u003c/a>; the sandwich-focused \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/our-team/\">Pane Bianco\u003c/a>; and \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattophx.com/\">Tratto\u003c/a>, his first white tablecloth destination, all in Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bianco's cookbook is an expression of this broadened palate. This may rankle hardcore pizza aficionados, but it suits Bianco. \"I didn't want to do just a pizza book,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm of the belief that if know how to forage for a salad, if you go into the market and you kind of open your mind up, and you start to align yourself with seasonality, and ask 'What do I feel like eating? Who's it for? Is it a first course or a main course salad?'\" says Bianco. \"All the questions that go into that, all the thoroughness that goes into that, that's how I make pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119645\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1092\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119645\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1180x805.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Bianco\u003c/em> opens with recipes for the six pies served at the pizzeria, including the signature Pizza Rosa: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, red onion, fresh rosemary and a scattering of crushed Arizona-grown pistachios. There are instructions for hearty main dishes (meatballs; braciole), salads (panzanella; purslane and cucumber) and sweets (rice pudding; lemon cookies). Into the narratives that tie the book together, Bianco weaves threads of memory, tradition and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps it is Bianco's own growing family — he and his wife, Mia, have two young children and a baby due in September — that moved him after all these years to finally put his recipes and food philosophy between two covers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I know that someday on this Earth that I won't make anything,\" Bianco says. \"I won't even make a piece of toast. I won't be here in the physical sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His writing, therefore, is guided by a simple question: \"How can I make a template that will be really easy to follow, or as easy as possible, that will live, hopefully, a long time?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jaime Joyce is a writer and editor living in Brooklyn. Her stories have appeared in \u003c/em>The New Yorker\u003cem> and \u003c/em>The New York Times\u003cem>. She is the author of \u003c/em>Moonshine: A Cultural History of America's Infamous Liquor\u003cem>. Follow her on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaijoyce/\">@jaijoyce\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"119634 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=119634","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/08/06/chris-bianco-pizza-yoda-is-sharing-his-wisdom-in-a-new-cookbook-he-is/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":988,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":23},"modified":1502040073,"excerpt":"The Arizona chef, widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement, weaves threads of memory, tradition and family in a book that reflects his evolution as a chef and restaurateur.","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"The Arizona chef, widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement, weaves threads of memory, tradition and family in a book that reflects his evolution as a chef and restaurateur.","title":"Chris Bianco, 'Pizza Yoda,' Is Sharing His Wisdom In A New Cookbook, He Is | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Chris Bianco, 'Pizza Yoda,' Is Sharing His Wisdom In A New Cookbook, He Is","datePublished":"2017-08-06T10:21:13-07:00","dateModified":"2017-08-06T10:21:13-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chris-bianco-pizza-yoda-is-sharing-his-wisdom-in-a-new-cookbook-he-is","status":"publish","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/books-and-magazines/cookbooks/","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=540933428&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprByline":"Jaime Joyce, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 06 Aug 2017 07:00:28 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 06 Aug 2017 07:00:28 -0400","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/06/540933428/chris-bianco-pizza-yoda-is-sharing-his-wisdom-in-a-new-cookbook-he-is?ft=nprml&f=540933428","nprImageAgency":"David Loftus","source":"Cookbooks","nprStoryId":"540933428","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 06 Aug 2017 07:00:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/119634/chris-bianco-pizza-yoda-is-sharing-his-wisdom-in-a-new-cookbook-he-is","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It's 8 a.m. on a Thursday in the empty dining room of Sessanta, an Italian restaurant in the New York City hotel Sixty SoHo, and Chris Bianco, the Arizona chef widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement, is running on adrenaline and just a few hours of sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh my goodness, it was a cavalcade of who's who,\" Bianco says, with mock seriousness, of the dinner party he flew in from Phoenix to host in this very space the previous evening, to celebrate the July release of his long-awaited first book,\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bianco-Pizza-Pasta-Other-Food/dp/0062224379/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1501686431&sr=1-1&keywords=bianco+pizza%2C+pasta%2C+and+other+food+i+like\">Bianco: Pizza, Pasta, and Other Food I Like\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were a lot of friends,\" from the food world, he says. And possibly \"just some people who were hungry and someone dragged them to the dinner and they probably thought there would be pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bite-sized focaccia squares were the closest thing to pizza on the four-course menu. Likewise, while Bianco's eponymous cookbook includes dough, sauce and pizza recipes, it expands beyond pizza to reflect his evolution as a chef and restaurateur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza, of course, is what put Bianco on the culinary map. Since starting \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/\">Pizzeria Bianco\u003c/a> in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, his thin-crust wood-fired pizza has consistently won accolades. In 2003, Bianco became the first pizza maker to receive a regional James Beard Award (Best Chef, Southwest). \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/07/dining/the-road-to-pizza-nirvana-goes-through-phoenix.html?_r=0\">The New York \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> lauded Bianco for \"making what just might be the best pizza in America.\" Food critic Jeffrey Steingarten, in Ed Levine's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pizza-Slice-Heaven-Ultimate-Companion/dp/B008SMUC0K\">Pizza: A Slice of Heaven\u003c/a>,\u003c/em> went further: \"Chris [Bianco] makes the finest pizzas in the United States and, in all frankness, the world.\" Because of Bianco, the Valley of the Sun has become a mecca for the pizza obsessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in the day, people used to go through my trash to find out what tomatoes we used — 'That must be the secret!' — or the flour — 'That's the secret!,'\" Bianco says, taking a sip of black coffee. \"I was like, dude, you want tomatoes? Here's a can.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you asked me, I told you anything,\" Bianco adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, Bianco has mentored and inspired pizza makers from across the country, including Paul Giannone, of \u003ca href=\"http://pauliegee.com/\">Paulie Gee's\u003c/a>, in Brooklyn; Brandon Pettit, of \u003ca href=\"http://delanceyseattle.com/\">Delancey\u003c/a>, in Seattle; and Nancy Silverton, of \u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriamozza.com/\">Pizzeria Mozza\u003c/a>, in Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119644\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement.\" width=\"600\" height=\"899\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119644\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-375x562.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"He's like a pizza Yoda, Chris is,\" says Adam Kuban, founder of the pizza blog \u003ca href=\"http://slice.seriouseats.com/\">Slice\u003c/a>, which is now part of the website Serious Eats. \"I think when pizza makers go to him, it's not so much how to learn to make pizza, it's just to kind of absorb this knowledge. It's almost like going to a Buddhist temple or something and taking in the knowledge and then applying that knowledge to what you do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Matthew Lyons, of \u003ca href=\"http://tributepizza.com/\">Tribute Pizza\u003c/a>, in San Diego, calls Bianco \"a very amicable cult leader.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just this cult of, like, caring an unreasonable amount about food and ingredients and people,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in the Bronx, Bianco is 55 and stocky, neither tall nor short, with a warm smile and pewter-colored hair that stands up in waves in the style of a mad scientist. He moved to Arizona when he was in his 20s, and in 1988 leased space in a gourmet market in order to start a pizza-making operation. In 1996, Pizzeria Bianco settled into its flagship location, a Prohibition-era red brick building in downtown Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Bianco's realm includes a second Pizzeria Bianco location; \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/bar-bianco/\">Bar Bianco\u003c/a>; the sandwich-focused \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/our-team/\">Pane Bianco\u003c/a>; and \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattophx.com/\">Tratto\u003c/a>, his first white tablecloth destination, all in Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bianco's cookbook is an expression of this broadened palate. This may rankle hardcore pizza aficionados, but it suits Bianco. \"I didn't want to do just a pizza book,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm of the belief that if know how to forage for a salad, if you go into the market and you kind of open your mind up, and you start to align yourself with seasonality, and ask 'What do I feel like eating? Who's it for? Is it a first course or a main course salad?'\" says Bianco. \"All the questions that go into that, all the thoroughness that goes into that, that's how I make pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119645\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1092\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119645\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1180x805.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Bianco\u003c/em> opens with recipes for the six pies served at the pizzeria, including the signature Pizza Rosa: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, red onion, fresh rosemary and a scattering of crushed Arizona-grown pistachios. There are instructions for hearty main dishes (meatballs; braciole), salads (panzanella; purslane and cucumber) and sweets (rice pudding; lemon cookies). Into the narratives that tie the book together, Bianco weaves threads of memory, tradition and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps it is Bianco's own growing family — he and his wife, Mia, have two young children and a baby due in September — that moved him after all these years to finally put his recipes and food philosophy between two covers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I know that someday on this Earth that I won't make anything,\" Bianco says. \"I won't even make a piece of toast. I won't be here in the physical sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His writing, therefore, is guided by a simple question: \"How can I make a template that will be really easy to follow, or as easy as possible, that will live, hopefully, a long time?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jaime Joyce is a writer and editor living in Brooklyn. Her stories have appeared in \u003c/em>The New Yorker\u003cem> and \u003c/em>The New York Times\u003cem>. She is the author of \u003c/em>Moonshine: A Cultural History of America's Infamous Liquor\u003cem>. Follow her on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaijoyce/\">@jaijoyce\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/119634/chris-bianco-pizza-yoda-is-sharing-his-wisdom-in-a-new-cookbook-he-is","authors":["byline_bayareabites_119634"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_11028"],"tags":["bayareabites_15934","bayareabites_443"],"featImg":"bayareabites_119635","label":"source_bayareabites_119634"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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