The first was a dish that Chef Dennis Lee of Namu made at the Foodbuzz Blogger Festival community dinner in early November.
His Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes were a work of art. Creative, complex, and soul-satisfying, in classic Namu-form. The Brussels sprouts were roasted to golden sweetness, the guanciale was appropriately full of crispy, fatty, pork goodness, and the bonito flakes added an element of surprise. The savory, smoky fish flavor blended well with the other ingredients at work, and the sight of them undulating like a creepy science project was just awesome.
Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette
The second take on Brussels sprouts that solidified my allegiance to the fan camp was one of the dishes that made my Thanksgiving potluck table this year: Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette. Potlucks can be a hit or miss, depending on the participants. We lucked out this year, as our hostess' roommate turned out to be a chef at E&O Trading Co in Larkspur.
Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird
To Chef Rene Caceres we owe not only one of the most succulent turkeys I've ever tasted (3 days of brining will do that), but a phenomenal Brussels sprouts recipe that doesn't even lean on a bacon crutch!
The freshness of the sprouts shines in this dish. And the balance of the caramelized sweet onion and acidity of the mustard vinaigrette are the perfect complement.
Naysayers, this may be your turning point. Just give it a try, and let me know if you don't find yourself popping these into your mouth like truffles.
Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette
Recipe adapted from Rene Caceres
Serves: 6-8
Ingredients:
1 lb. Brussels sprouts
1 small red onion
2 oz. whole grain mustard vinaigrette
½ oz. olive oil
For the vinaigrette:
1 cup whole grain mustard
½ cup white balsamic vinegar
1 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Preparation:
1. Cook the Brussels sprouts in boiling water for about 15 to 20 minutes. Let them cool and cut them in half.
2. Thinly slice the red onion and reserve.
3. Make the vinaigrette by combining the mustard with the vinegar. Whisk the oil slowly into the mixture and add the salt and sugar.
4. Sauté the red onion first for about one minute. Then add the Brussels sprouts face down. Cook until they get nice and caramelized. Turn them and add the vinaigrette. Toss them together and let them cook for about 1 minute.
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Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes
Recipe adapted from Dennis Lee, Namu
Serves: 6-8
Ingredients:
1 lb. Brussels sprouts
¼ lb. guanciale
1 tablespoon fried garlic
Note: You can mince and fry this yourself on the stove in a pan with enough oil (neutral oil, i.e. rice, canola, grapeseed) to coat the garlic. Fry over low heat until the garlic starts to brown, remove with metal screen strainer (it will continue to brown) and place on paper towel and spread to cool with a spoon or chopsticks. Otherwise they sell wonderful fried garlic in Asian markets in a jar.
4 oz. ponzu
Note: This can also be bought in an Asian grocer. If you want to make your own, its 2 parts dashi stock, 1 part soy, 1 part rice vinegar and citrus juice to taste (Meyer Lemon juice or Yuzu juice works great).
4 oz. soy dashi
Note: Comprised of bonito, konbu, and soy water; or instant dashi or tsuyu (liquid dashi concentrate) are sold in Asian grocers.
1 tablespoon butter
Extra virgin olive oil
Shichimi or Togarashi spice
Bonito flakes
Preparation:
For the Brussels Sprouts:
1. Quarter the heads or globes so the roots stay intact, keeping the leaves together.
2. Blanch the Brussels sprouts. Always blanch in a large pot (large enough that it won't stop boiling when you drop the sprouts into it) of water with a healthy dose of salt (2-3 tablespoons). While waiting for the water to boil, prepare an ice bath. Boil the sprouts until they turn bright green, then immediately shock them in the ice bath. This can be done up to a day in advance and the sprouts can be stored, in the refrigerator covered.
For the Guanciale:
1. Cut the guanciale into about ½ inch cubes (remember it will slightly shrink when it cooks).
2. Boil the guanciale in a pot with the water at about 1 ½ inches above the meat. Bring it to a boil and simmer until soft. Much of the fat will render, but the flavor will remain rich. Drain and discard the liquid. This can also be done in advance and stored in a refrigerator.
The Brussels sprouts can either be roasted or pan fried.
Method 1: Roasting
Roast the sprouts and guanciale in the oven at 375 degrees F until golden brown with enough olive oil to coat, making sure to stir it every 5 minutes or so to get an even color.