Chez Panisse alum Sylvan Brackett has mastered the Japanese set meal format.
Izakaya Rintaro is widely considered among the best Japanese restaurants in the Bay Area, but until late last year served only dinner. That menu is divided into classic categories of sashimi, yakitori, fried, and “final dish,” with special sections for fresh tofu and house dish, along with dessert. There’s a lot going on in each main category’s few selections, resulting in numerous possibilities for composing a meal.
The new lunch service (Thu-Sat, 11:30am-2pm) offers a teishoku menu, or set meal, straight-shooting and traditional, but nonetheless invigorated with an abundance of local bounty, chef Sylvan Brackett’s calling card. Brackett, who was born in Japan and grew up in the Sierra Nevada, has been a mainstay on the local Japanese food scene since opening Peko Peko, a Japanese-influenced catering company (after six years in the Chez Panisse kitchen), then launching Izakaya Rintaro in 2014.