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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Be sure to check out our full \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/summer-guide-2026\">2026 Summer Arts Guide to live music, movies, art, theater, festivals and more\u003c/a> in the Bay Area.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are living in a golden age of boba in the Bay Area. In certain swaths of Berkeley, San Jose and Cupertino, you can find a boba shop on every block, and the sheer variety of drinks — from the cheese foam–topped to the nitro-chilled — has never been more robust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, any true bubble tea connoisseur will tell you that beverage quality varies wildly from boba shop to boba shop — and, if I can say the quiet part out loud, the vast majority of Bay Area spots are mediocre at best. Unless you \u003ci>like\u003c/i> stale tapioca balls and excruciatingly sweet, watered-down tea made from powder mixes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But listen: Friends don’t let friends drink bad boba. And because I care about you, dear reader, I’ve decided to share my running list of the best the Bay Area has to offer. As the parched, sun-soaked days of summer draw near, these are the spots where I’ll be posting up to quench my thirst. \u003cstrong>New additions for 2026: Goolu Tea, Heytea, Dzui Cake & Tea.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957737\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957737\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks on a wooden table.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1482\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-800x618.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-1020x787.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-160x124.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-768x593.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-1536x1186.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">TP Tea is a good choice for boba drinkers who want to be able to taste the tea. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>TP Tea\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2383 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s where I’ll remind you that the boba balls themselves are merely a \u003ci>topping\u003c/i>, and an optional one at that. A boba shop serving tea that doesn’t taste good on its own would never survive in Taiwan (or any serious tea-drinking country). And so the highest praise I can give to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tptea.california/\">TP Tea\u003c/a> is that it’s the kind of boba shop where you can order the most basic-sounding tea (say, the “Signature Black Tea”) with minimal (30%) sugar added and no toppings whatsoever — and the drink will taste good as hell. The tea drinks here actually taste like tea, including the elegantly smooth Tie Guan Yin milk tea, a contender for my favorite milk tea in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s for good reason, then, that TP’s UC Berkeley location is by far the busiest boba shop on a couple-block stretch of Telegraph Avenue packed with six or seven others. (Also, “Taiwan Professional Tea” is the best name for a boba chain, hands down.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Asha Tea House\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2086 University Ave., Berkeley\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/two-local-teashops-that-could-make-you-care-about-tea-1/\">As the story goes\u003c/a>, this Berkeley institution opened as a vehicle for evangelizing the pleasures of fine Asian teas, and offered a simple boba menu as just one part of that mission. But the boba drinks were so wildly popular, they quickly overshadowed all of the shop’s higher-end offerings. More than probably any other Bay Area boba shop, the focus at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ashateahouse/?hl=en\">Asha\u003c/a> rests squarely on the quality of the tea itself rather than on any bells and whistles. All of my favorites have been on the menu from day one: the potent, condensed milk–sweetened Hong Kong milk tea, which is delicious hot or cold, with or without boba. Or any of the seasonal fruit teas, which rely on no artificial flavorings. Instead, they’re just pure tea, supplemented with one of Asha’s pulpy housemade fruit purees. When available, the strawberry black tea and the Asian pear oolong are especially elite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957738\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957738\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango.jpg\" alt=\"A mango smoothie topped with whipped cream.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dek Doi sells standard boba drinks, but its boba-adjacent Thai beverages — like the “Mango Sunset” — are where the Piedmont Avenue shop really shines. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Dek Doi Cafe\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>4125 Piedmont Ave., Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a testament to the beverage’s mainstream universal appeal these days that this little Thai cafe has a whole section of its menu dedicated to boba, which doesn’t have any traditional roots in Thailand. That said, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dekdoicafe/\">Dek Doi’s\u003c/a> boba drink selection is fairly basic, so you’d be better off choosing one of its boba-adjacent Thai drinks — like the “Mango Sunset,” which is just an S-tier exemplar of the kind of slushie mango smoothie that many shops sell. This version comes topped with whipped cream and crispy mung beans. Or try Thailand’s famous “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925310/dek-doi-cafe-pink-milk-thai-bl-oakland\">pink milk\u003c/a>,” or nom chompuu, which is made with red palm fruit syrup and resembles, and vaguely tastes similar to, a retro diner–style strawberry milk with tropical undertones. Note that the drinks here run sweet, but, like at any respectable boba shop, the sweetness level is customizable: For me, 50% was just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957746\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957746\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee.jpg\" alt=\"A creamy boba drink sits on a table in front of a pillow.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The crème brûlée milk tea is one of Urban Ritual’s many excellent toppings-forward drinks. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Urban Ritual\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>488 Fell St., San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just when I got done saying boba isn’t all about all the toppings, here comes a boba shop that is, to a large extent, \u003ci>all about the toppings\u003c/i>. And yet I love it, unreservedly. Actually, the tea at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/urbanritualcafe/?hl=en\">Urban Ritual\u003c/a> tastes quite good, and the texture of the boba itself is unimpeachable. But what sets the shop apart is its next-generation approach to creative flavor and topping combinations. The most obvious example is its signature crème brûlée milk tea, which combines black tea, cream, tapioca balls and crème brûlée — both the eggy pudding and the crunchy-smoky torched sugar bits. This is Urban Ritual’s greatest innovation: the way it introduces textures other than the classic “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897410/taiwanese-food-texture-q-boba-love-boat\">QQ\u003c/a>” chew of the boba.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you want to tell me that some of these drinks are more of a dessert than a beverage? You would be correct — but who is going to complain as long as they know that going in?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989533\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989533\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks placed on the edge of a planter box filled with colorful flowers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teaspoon’s Corte Madera location might be the best boba option in the North Bay. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Teaspoon\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>132 Corte Madera Town Center, Corte Madera\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915004,arts_13976236']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Marin County has long been a bit of a boba wasteland, as the big, trendy brands from Taiwan haven’t, to this point, seen the region’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11307601/why-is-marin-county-so-white\">small Asian population\u003c/a> as a worthwhile market. It was a happy day, then, when Teaspoon, one of the more well-regarded local (and now \u003ca href=\"https://order.teaspoonlife.com/\">national\u003c/a>) chains, opened a branch in a Corte Madera shopping plaza. The creamy, caramelly Black Sugar Assam is a well-executed take on the black sugar boba trend. And the “Grasshopper,” which combines lychee green tea and fresh cucumber juice, is fun and refreshing — a nod, perhaps, toward the kind of pepino agua fresca you might find at a local taqueria.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A note of caution: Teaspoon’s drinks were always a bit on the sweet side, but lately the chain has doubled down on the sugar, literally — what used to be the maximum (“regular”) sweetness level is now listed as 50% sweet, which means customers who don’t want a sugar bomb should probably opt for 10%.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989514\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989514\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash.jpg\" alt='Hand holding a boba drink with a Christmas tree in the background. The text on the cup reads, \"Goolutea Zesty Lime Smash\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goolu Tea, in Castro Valley, specializes in lime smash boba drinks, in which whole limes get smashed and muddled by hand. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Goolu Tea\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3646 Village Dr., Castro Valley\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A relative newcomer to the Bay Area scene, this independent boba shop specializes in hand-smashed lime teas, a style of drink that’s wildly popular in China and Hong Kong, where it’s often made with green lemons. The name of the drink is self-explanatory: Once you place your order, you’ll hear sound of those fresh limes getting pummeled — quite literally beaten to a pulp — by the staff, releasing not just the sour juices but also the slightly bitter fragrance of the rind. The end result is one of the most refreshing drinks you can find on a hot day. I’m especially fond of the light, slightly astringent Phoenix lime tea, made with a coveted oolong varietal from Guangdong, China.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Yifang Taiwan Fruit Tea \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>34133 Fremont Blvd., Fremont\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In some ways this may feel like a basic pick: This Taiwanese chain has had a foothold in Northern California for years now, with more than a dozen locations, and it’s been a minute since the brand was super-relevant on the Taipei scene. But what \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yifang.cal/?hl=en\">Yifang\u003c/a> still does better than any other Bay Area chain is its fruit-flavored teas — whether it’s pineapple teas (made with housemade pineapple jam), old-school Taiwanese tastes like winter melon tea or lemon aiyu or, best of all, the shop’s signature Yifang Fruit Tea, which comes loaded fresh apple, orange and passion fruit, like a beverage and fruit salad all in one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is another spot where you’ll want to be careful about the sweetness levels, which vary widely from drink to drink. I’ve ordered the Yifang Fruit Tea at 0% sweetness and still found it to be plenty sweet enough!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957754\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957754\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a man holding two boba drinks using boba totes made of twine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicha San Chen’s hallmark is that it brews the tea for each individual boba drink to order. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Chicha San Chen\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>20688 Stevens Creek Blvd., Cupertino\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904913,arts_13989331']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>This one is for the diehards — or at least for tea lovers who have about an hour to kill. The current title holder in the contest for buzziest Bay Area boba shop, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chichasanchen.norcal/?hl=en\">Chicha San Chen\u003c/a> touts its award-winning tea drinks, which are individually brewed to order using the company’s patented, very Third-Wave-esque “teaspresso” machines. Is it all a little bit precious? Sure. But it does make for tasty tea. Word to the wise: If you’re going to go through all the trouble of waiting in line for half an hour (and then \u003ci>another\u003c/i> half hour for them to make your drink), then you’d better be a person who appreciates the flavor of tea for tea’s sake — and you’d be well-advised to order one of the simpler drinks, so the taste of that tea actually shines through. I love the floral, slightly tannic, minimally sweetened honey osmanthus oolong in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonus points for packaging that’s cute \u003ci>and\u003c/i> convenient: Every cup comes with a disposable \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C13nPlqLXle/?hl=en\">boba tote\u003c/a> made of twine. And as the chain has slowly ramped up its \u003ca href=\"https://chichasanchennorcal.com/locations\">Bay Area footprint\u003c/a>, the crowds are starting get more manageable too. (During recent visits to the Berkeley location, I’ve snagged my drinks in less than 20 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957757\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957757\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful.jpg\" alt=\"A soy pudding drink with many colorful toppings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-1536x1151.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The #8 combination at Soyful desserts is a hybrid of boba, soy pudding and chè. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Soyful Desserts\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>999 Story Rd., San José\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the joys of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">San José’s vibrant, colorful drinks scene\u003c/a> is the way that Taiwanese, Chinese and Vietnamese influences have fused together to create their own unique, hybridized thing. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/soyfuldesserts/\">Soyful Desserts\u003c/a> is probably the peak example of that synthesis, with its concise menu of Hong Kong-style milk teas, soy pudding drinks and shaved ice–laden Vietnamese chè. As the shop’s name indicates, the star here is the soy pudding (aka tofu pudding), a silky, refreshing treat equally beloved in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vietnam. To experience this fusion in all its glory, try the #8 soy pudding combination, which comes filled to the brim with ginger syrup–soaked tofu pudding, shaved ice, basil seeds, pandan jelly, grass jelly, sweet red beans and probably a handful of other toppings I’m forgetting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m well aware that this is a “drink” that’s more solid than liquid — that it, in fact, constitutes a full meal in itself. But that doesn’t make it any less fun or delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13976427\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding.jpg\" alt='Coconut pudding topped with diced mango, served in a jar. The insignia on the jar reads, \"Tong Sui.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Tong Sui\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>927 E. Arques Ave. #151, Sunnyvale\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also in the realm of good boba at businesses that aren’t strictly boba shops, this popular dessert mini-chain stands out for its selection of seasonally rotating drinks that skew more toward tropical fruit than pure tea. The osmanthus oolong milk tea, topped with tea jelly and an airy coconut cream “cloud,” embodies the shop’s approach: The drinks are refreshing, texturally interesting, sweet but not \u003cem>too \u003c/em>sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the real reason to make a special trip to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tongsui.us/?hl=en\">Tong Sui\u003c/a> is the shop’s line of coconut puddings that are so tender and jiggly, they practically melt in your mouth. I especially love the one topped with a double layer of mango (both finely chopped and in soft mochi form).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989531\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989531\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose.jpg\" alt='Facade of a busy boba shop, with a line of people waiting outside the entrance. The sign above reads, \"HEYTEA.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The San José location of Heytea, one of the buzziest boba chains to come out of China in recent years. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Heytea\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>1628 Hostetter Rd. Ste. H, San José\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the trendiest boba chains to come out of China, Heytea has made rapid inroads in the Bay Area, with locations opening in San Francisco, Berkeley, Milpitas, Daly City and beyond, all in the past two years. During peak hours, I found the San José shop to be more than a little chaotic, with long and unpredictable wait times for drinks — quite tasty drinks, it turns out. The matcha and brown sugar drinks are big sellers, but Heytea’s real strength is its super-refreshing fruit teas. I’m a sucker for all of the grape flavors, including the enticingly named “Crisp Grape Boom,” which is essentially a slushie with chunks of peeled fresh grape mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989519\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989519\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Hand holding a cup of milk tea in front of Dzui Cake & Tea. The text on the cup reads, "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy durian."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy durian” — especially at Dzui Cake & Tea in San José. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Dzui Cake & Tea\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2451 Alvin Ave., San José\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its vast selection of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13986806/dzui-favorite-durian-dessert-shop-san-jose-banh-pia\">durian desserts\u003c/a> and hard-to-find Vietnamese pastries, Dzui’s is a lot more than just a boba shop. But the drinks are worth a trip in their own right. Of particular note is the “á đù…rian” milk tea, which is almost certainly the best durian milk tea you’ll find in the Bay. The salt-cream-topped drink is rich, creamy and apologetically funky, with a true durian flavor that gets stronger and more delicious the longer you drink it. Also excellent: the chè-like hambalang milk tea, which comes loaded with boba, flan, and an assortment of colorful jellies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"mceTemp\">\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"title": "The Best Boba Shops in the Bay Area | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Be sure to check out our full \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/summer-guide-2026\">2026 Summer Arts Guide to live music, movies, art, theater, festivals and more\u003c/a> in the Bay Area.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are living in a golden age of boba in the Bay Area. In certain swaths of Berkeley, San Jose and Cupertino, you can find a boba shop on every block, and the sheer variety of drinks — from the cheese foam–topped to the nitro-chilled — has never been more robust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, any true bubble tea connoisseur will tell you that beverage quality varies wildly from boba shop to boba shop — and, if I can say the quiet part out loud, the vast majority of Bay Area spots are mediocre at best. Unless you \u003ci>like\u003c/i> stale tapioca balls and excruciatingly sweet, watered-down tea made from powder mixes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But listen: Friends don’t let friends drink bad boba. And because I care about you, dear reader, I’ve decided to share my running list of the best the Bay Area has to offer. As the parched, sun-soaked days of summer draw near, these are the spots where I’ll be posting up to quench my thirst. \u003cstrong>New additions for 2026: Goolu Tea, Heytea, Dzui Cake & Tea.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957737\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957737\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks on a wooden table.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1482\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-800x618.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-1020x787.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-160x124.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-768x593.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tp-tea-1536x1186.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">TP Tea is a good choice for boba drinkers who want to be able to taste the tea. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>TP Tea\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2383 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s where I’ll remind you that the boba balls themselves are merely a \u003ci>topping\u003c/i>, and an optional one at that. A boba shop serving tea that doesn’t taste good on its own would never survive in Taiwan (or any serious tea-drinking country). And so the highest praise I can give to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tptea.california/\">TP Tea\u003c/a> is that it’s the kind of boba shop where you can order the most basic-sounding tea (say, the “Signature Black Tea”) with minimal (30%) sugar added and no toppings whatsoever — and the drink will taste good as hell. The tea drinks here actually taste like tea, including the elegantly smooth Tie Guan Yin milk tea, a contender for my favorite milk tea in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s for good reason, then, that TP’s UC Berkeley location is by far the busiest boba shop on a couple-block stretch of Telegraph Avenue packed with six or seven others. (Also, “Taiwan Professional Tea” is the best name for a boba chain, hands down.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Asha Tea House\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2086 University Ave., Berkeley\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/two-local-teashops-that-could-make-you-care-about-tea-1/\">As the story goes\u003c/a>, this Berkeley institution opened as a vehicle for evangelizing the pleasures of fine Asian teas, and offered a simple boba menu as just one part of that mission. But the boba drinks were so wildly popular, they quickly overshadowed all of the shop’s higher-end offerings. More than probably any other Bay Area boba shop, the focus at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ashateahouse/?hl=en\">Asha\u003c/a> rests squarely on the quality of the tea itself rather than on any bells and whistles. All of my favorites have been on the menu from day one: the potent, condensed milk–sweetened Hong Kong milk tea, which is delicious hot or cold, with or without boba. Or any of the seasonal fruit teas, which rely on no artificial flavorings. Instead, they’re just pure tea, supplemented with one of Asha’s pulpy housemade fruit purees. When available, the strawberry black tea and the Asian pear oolong are especially elite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957738\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957738\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango.jpg\" alt=\"A mango smoothie topped with whipped cream.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/dek-doi-mango-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dek Doi sells standard boba drinks, but its boba-adjacent Thai beverages — like the “Mango Sunset” — are where the Piedmont Avenue shop really shines. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Dek Doi Cafe\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>4125 Piedmont Ave., Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a testament to the beverage’s mainstream universal appeal these days that this little Thai cafe has a whole section of its menu dedicated to boba, which doesn’t have any traditional roots in Thailand. That said, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/dekdoicafe/\">Dek Doi’s\u003c/a> boba drink selection is fairly basic, so you’d be better off choosing one of its boba-adjacent Thai drinks — like the “Mango Sunset,” which is just an S-tier exemplar of the kind of slushie mango smoothie that many shops sell. This version comes topped with whipped cream and crispy mung beans. Or try Thailand’s famous “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925310/dek-doi-cafe-pink-milk-thai-bl-oakland\">pink milk\u003c/a>,” or nom chompuu, which is made with red palm fruit syrup and resembles, and vaguely tastes similar to, a retro diner–style strawberry milk with tropical undertones. Note that the drinks here run sweet, but, like at any respectable boba shop, the sweetness level is customizable: For me, 50% was just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957746\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957746\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee.jpg\" alt=\"A creamy boba drink sits on a table in front of a pillow.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/urban-ritual-creme-brulee-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The crème brûlée milk tea is one of Urban Ritual’s many excellent toppings-forward drinks. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Urban Ritual\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>488 Fell St., San Francisco\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just when I got done saying boba isn’t all about all the toppings, here comes a boba shop that is, to a large extent, \u003ci>all about the toppings\u003c/i>. And yet I love it, unreservedly. Actually, the tea at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/urbanritualcafe/?hl=en\">Urban Ritual\u003c/a> tastes quite good, and the texture of the boba itself is unimpeachable. But what sets the shop apart is its next-generation approach to creative flavor and topping combinations. The most obvious example is its signature crème brûlée milk tea, which combines black tea, cream, tapioca balls and crème brûlée — both the eggy pudding and the crunchy-smoky torched sugar bits. This is Urban Ritual’s greatest innovation: the way it introduces textures other than the classic “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897410/taiwanese-food-texture-q-boba-love-boat\">QQ\u003c/a>” chew of the boba.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you want to tell me that some of these drinks are more of a dessert than a beverage? You would be correct — but who is going to complain as long as they know that going in?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989533\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989533\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks placed on the edge of a planter box filled with colorful flowers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/teaspoon-corte-madera-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teaspoon’s Corte Madera location might be the best boba option in the North Bay. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Teaspoon\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>132 Corte Madera Town Center, Corte Madera\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Marin County has long been a bit of a boba wasteland, as the big, trendy brands from Taiwan haven’t, to this point, seen the region’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11307601/why-is-marin-county-so-white\">small Asian population\u003c/a> as a worthwhile market. It was a happy day, then, when Teaspoon, one of the more well-regarded local (and now \u003ca href=\"https://order.teaspoonlife.com/\">national\u003c/a>) chains, opened a branch in a Corte Madera shopping plaza. The creamy, caramelly Black Sugar Assam is a well-executed take on the black sugar boba trend. And the “Grasshopper,” which combines lychee green tea and fresh cucumber juice, is fun and refreshing — a nod, perhaps, toward the kind of pepino agua fresca you might find at a local taqueria.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A note of caution: Teaspoon’s drinks were always a bit on the sweet side, but lately the chain has doubled down on the sugar, literally — what used to be the maximum (“regular”) sweetness level is now listed as 50% sweet, which means customers who don’t want a sugar bomb should probably opt for 10%.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989514\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989514\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash.jpg\" alt='Hand holding a boba drink with a Christmas tree in the background. The text on the cup reads, \"Goolutea Zesty Lime Smash\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/goolu-lime-smash-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goolu Tea, in Castro Valley, specializes in lime smash boba drinks, in which whole limes get smashed and muddled by hand. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Goolu Tea\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>3646 Village Dr., Castro Valley\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A relative newcomer to the Bay Area scene, this independent boba shop specializes in hand-smashed lime teas, a style of drink that’s wildly popular in China and Hong Kong, where it’s often made with green lemons. The name of the drink is self-explanatory: Once you place your order, you’ll hear sound of those fresh limes getting pummeled — quite literally beaten to a pulp — by the staff, releasing not just the sour juices but also the slightly bitter fragrance of the rind. The end result is one of the most refreshing drinks you can find on a hot day. I’m especially fond of the light, slightly astringent Phoenix lime tea, made with a coveted oolong varietal from Guangdong, China.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Yifang Taiwan Fruit Tea \u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>34133 Fremont Blvd., Fremont\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In some ways this may feel like a basic pick: This Taiwanese chain has had a foothold in Northern California for years now, with more than a dozen locations, and it’s been a minute since the brand was super-relevant on the Taipei scene. But what \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yifang.cal/?hl=en\">Yifang\u003c/a> still does better than any other Bay Area chain is its fruit-flavored teas — whether it’s pineapple teas (made with housemade pineapple jam), old-school Taiwanese tastes like winter melon tea or lemon aiyu or, best of all, the shop’s signature Yifang Fruit Tea, which comes loaded fresh apple, orange and passion fruit, like a beverage and fruit salad all in one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is another spot where you’ll want to be careful about the sweetness levels, which vary widely from drink to drink. I’ve ordered the Yifang Fruit Tea at 0% sweetness and still found it to be plenty sweet enough!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957754\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957754\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a man holding two boba drinks using boba totes made of twine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_totes-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicha San Chen’s hallmark is that it brews the tea for each individual boba drink to order. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Chicha San Chen\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>20688 Stevens Creek Blvd., Cupertino\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>This one is for the diehards — or at least for tea lovers who have about an hour to kill. The current title holder in the contest for buzziest Bay Area boba shop, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chichasanchen.norcal/?hl=en\">Chicha San Chen\u003c/a> touts its award-winning tea drinks, which are individually brewed to order using the company’s patented, very Third-Wave-esque “teaspresso” machines. Is it all a little bit precious? Sure. But it does make for tasty tea. Word to the wise: If you’re going to go through all the trouble of waiting in line for half an hour (and then \u003ci>another\u003c/i> half hour for them to make your drink), then you’d better be a person who appreciates the flavor of tea for tea’s sake — and you’d be well-advised to order one of the simpler drinks, so the taste of that tea actually shines through. I love the floral, slightly tannic, minimally sweetened honey osmanthus oolong in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonus points for packaging that’s cute \u003ci>and\u003c/i> convenient: Every cup comes with a disposable \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C13nPlqLXle/?hl=en\">boba tote\u003c/a> made of twine. And as the chain has slowly ramped up its \u003ca href=\"https://chichasanchennorcal.com/locations\">Bay Area footprint\u003c/a>, the crowds are starting get more manageable too. (During recent visits to the Berkeley location, I’ve snagged my drinks in less than 20 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957757\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957757\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful.jpg\" alt=\"A soy pudding drink with many colorful toppings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/soyful-1536x1151.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The #8 combination at Soyful desserts is a hybrid of boba, soy pudding and chè. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Soyful Desserts\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>999 Story Rd., San José\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the joys of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">San José’s vibrant, colorful drinks scene\u003c/a> is the way that Taiwanese, Chinese and Vietnamese influences have fused together to create their own unique, hybridized thing. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/soyfuldesserts/\">Soyful Desserts\u003c/a> is probably the peak example of that synthesis, with its concise menu of Hong Kong-style milk teas, soy pudding drinks and shaved ice–laden Vietnamese chè. As the shop’s name indicates, the star here is the soy pudding (aka tofu pudding), a silky, refreshing treat equally beloved in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vietnam. To experience this fusion in all its glory, try the #8 soy pudding combination, which comes filled to the brim with ginger syrup–soaked tofu pudding, shaved ice, basil seeds, pandan jelly, grass jelly, sweet red beans and probably a handful of other toppings I’m forgetting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m well aware that this is a “drink” that’s more solid than liquid — that it, in fact, constitutes a full meal in itself. But that doesn’t make it any less fun or delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13976427\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding.jpg\" alt='Coconut pudding topped with diced mango, served in a jar. The insignia on the jar reads, \"Tong Sui.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/tong-sui-pudding-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Tong Sui\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>927 E. Arques Ave. #151, Sunnyvale\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also in the realm of good boba at businesses that aren’t strictly boba shops, this popular dessert mini-chain stands out for its selection of seasonally rotating drinks that skew more toward tropical fruit than pure tea. The osmanthus oolong milk tea, topped with tea jelly and an airy coconut cream “cloud,” embodies the shop’s approach: The drinks are refreshing, texturally interesting, sweet but not \u003cem>too \u003c/em>sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the real reason to make a special trip to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tongsui.us/?hl=en\">Tong Sui\u003c/a> is the shop’s line of coconut puddings that are so tender and jiggly, they practically melt in your mouth. I especially love the one topped with a double layer of mango (both finely chopped and in soft mochi form).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989531\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989531\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose.jpg\" alt='Facade of a busy boba shop, with a line of people waiting outside the entrance. The sign above reads, \"HEYTEA.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/heytea-san-jose-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The San José location of Heytea, one of the buzziest boba chains to come out of China in recent years. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Heytea\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>1628 Hostetter Rd. Ste. H, San José\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the trendiest boba chains to come out of China, Heytea has made rapid inroads in the Bay Area, with locations opening in San Francisco, Berkeley, Milpitas, Daly City and beyond, all in the past two years. During peak hours, I found the San José shop to be more than a little chaotic, with long and unpredictable wait times for drinks — quite tasty drinks, it turns out. The matcha and brown sugar drinks are big sellers, but Heytea’s real strength is its super-refreshing fruit teas. I’m a sucker for all of the grape flavors, including the enticingly named “Crisp Grape Boom,” which is essentially a slushie with chunks of peeled fresh grape mixed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13989519\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13989519\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Hand holding a cup of milk tea in front of Dzui Cake & Tea. The text on the cup reads, "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy durian."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/dzui-durian-milk-tea-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy durian” — especially at Dzui Cake & Tea in San José. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Dzui Cake & Tea\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>2451 Alvin Ave., San José\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its vast selection of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13986806/dzui-favorite-durian-dessert-shop-san-jose-banh-pia\">durian desserts\u003c/a> and hard-to-find Vietnamese pastries, Dzui’s is a lot more than just a boba shop. But the drinks are worth a trip in their own right. Of particular note is the “á đù…rian” milk tea, which is almost certainly the best durian milk tea you’ll find in the Bay. The salt-cream-topped drink is rich, creamy and apologetically funky, with a true durian flavor that gets stronger and more delicious the longer you drink it. Also excellent: the chè-like hambalang milk tea, which comes loaded with boba, flan, and an assortment of colorful jellies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"mceTemp\">\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Techie \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/cupertino\">Cupertino\u003c/a> doesn’t \u003ci>usually\u003c/i> register in the San Francisco- and Oakland-centric discussions of top Bay Area food cities — unless, of course, you’re a hardcore Asian food connoisseur. In that case, you probably already know that Cupertino’s suburban strip malls are home to some of the Bay Area’s finest noodle shops, jook joints and hot pot emporiums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13897830,arts_13957666']If that’s your comfort food sweet spot, you may want to check out Cupertino’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.cupertino.gov/Your-City/Divisions/Economic-Development/Restaurant-Week\">first ever restaurant week\u003c/a>, which the city is hosting to celebrate its 70th anniversary. The weeklong extravaganza of discounted meal deals from more than 20 participating restaurants will run Oct. 6–12.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cupertino is the beating heart of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">South Bay’s vibrant Taiwanese food scene\u003c/a>, so it’s no surprise that the cuisine is well represented in this promotion. Duan’s Kitchen, one of the area’s better beef noodle soup shops, is offering free items for customers who spend at least $25 (fried fishcake) or $50 (one of the better Taiwanese-style pork chops around). And Chicha San Chen, probably the trendiest among the city’s roughly five bajillion \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">boba shops\u003c/a>, will host free Lishan oolong tea tastings for customers who \u003ca href=\"https://chichasanchennorcal.com/reservation/ola/services/lishan-oolong-tea-tasting\">sign up in advance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957736\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957736\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks on a park bench.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cupertino’s Chicha San Chen is the current title holder for buzziest boba shop in the Bay. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If hot pot is more your speed, the Cupertino branch of HaiDiLao — the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13970445/haidilao-hot-pot-fremont-late-night\">glitzy hot pot mega-chain\u003c/a> — and individual mini-pot specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.homeeat.com/cupertino\">Home Eat\u003c/a> will both offer discounted meals this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bargain hunters craving something other than East Asian cuisine will have plenty of options too — say, Aqui Cal-Mex’s $3 appetizer sampler or the 25% discount on all of the Indian pizzas at Curry Pizza House.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>See the Cupertino Restaurant Week \u003ca href=\"https://www.cupertino.gov/Your-City/Divisions/Economic-Development/Restaurant-Week\">promotion page\u003c/a> for a complete list of participating restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>If that’s your comfort food sweet spot, you may want to check out Cupertino’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.cupertino.gov/Your-City/Divisions/Economic-Development/Restaurant-Week\">first ever restaurant week\u003c/a>, which the city is hosting to celebrate its 70th anniversary. The weeklong extravaganza of discounted meal deals from more than 20 participating restaurants will run Oct. 6–12.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cupertino is the beating heart of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">South Bay’s vibrant Taiwanese food scene\u003c/a>, so it’s no surprise that the cuisine is well represented in this promotion. Duan’s Kitchen, one of the area’s better beef noodle soup shops, is offering free items for customers who spend at least $25 (fried fishcake) or $50 (one of the better Taiwanese-style pork chops around). And Chicha San Chen, probably the trendiest among the city’s roughly five bajillion \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">boba shops\u003c/a>, will host free Lishan oolong tea tastings for customers who \u003ca href=\"https://chichasanchennorcal.com/reservation/ola/services/lishan-oolong-tea-tasting\">sign up in advance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957736\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957736\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks on a park bench.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cupertino’s Chicha San Chen is the current title holder for buzziest boba shop in the Bay. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If hot pot is more your speed, the Cupertino branch of HaiDiLao — the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13970445/haidilao-hot-pot-fremont-late-night\">glitzy hot pot mega-chain\u003c/a> — and individual mini-pot specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.homeeat.com/cupertino\">Home Eat\u003c/a> will both offer discounted meals this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bargain hunters craving something other than East Asian cuisine will have plenty of options too — say, Aqui Cal-Mex’s $3 appetizer sampler or the 25% discount on all of the Indian pizzas at Curry Pizza House.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Hua Hsu’s ‘Stay True’ Recaptures a 1990s Berkeley — and a Friendship Lost Too Soon",
"headTitle": "Hua Hsu’s ‘Stay True’ Recaptures a 1990s Berkeley — and a Friendship Lost Too Soon | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>What were the ’90s? I ask myself this question more and more lately. In the past month, I’ve watched \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@horsesweremylife/video/7143108449130401066?is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7143108449130401066\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a reunited Pavement\u003c/a> amble through a set of slacker anthems, witnessed \u003ca href=\"https://www.nylon.com/fashion/grunge-90s-fashion-clothes\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">high school fashion turn into grunge 2.0\u003c/a>, tried to ignore \u003ca href=\"https://pitchfork.com/features/lists-and-guides/the-best-albums-of-the-1990s/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">dumb internet lists\u003c/a> and endured daily questions about the decade from my 13-year-old daughter. “What was your favorite movie in the ’90s?” she asks me. “Was Weezer cool in the ’90s?” “Is this shirt ’90s?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Movies, music and fashion are all part of the decade, sure. Less easy to recall, 30 years later, is what daily life was actually like, and how people felt most of the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside label=\"Related Stories\" postID=\"forum_2010101889960,forum_2010101882386\"]I devoured Hua Hsu’s \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> (Doubleday; $26) in one sitting, finding new answers to the question on every page. A memoir of Hua’s college years at UC Berkeley, \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> is primarily about his relationship with his best friend, Ken. Confident, loud and outgoing, Ken belongs to a frat, listens to the Dave Matthews Band and comes from a Japanese American family, “bright and optimistic in a way I found suspect.” In other words: mainstream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hua, meanwhile, is one of the millions whose outlook was changed by Nirvana. Philosophical, cynical and quiet, he nonetheless strikes up an odd friendship with Ken, who is genuinely curious in his clothes, music and books. The two grow close through smoke breaks and road trips, and stay up late together talking about life. (“We came up with brilliant theories,” Hua writes, “but forgot to write them down.”)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suddenly, Ken is murdered in a senseless carjacking, and nothing is the same. Hua describes his grief: he leans on friends, blames himself, goes to therapy and saves nearly everything Ken left behind. Somehow, some way, he settles into acceptance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The details of this particular trauma are specific. But to the lingering question — what were the ’90s? — \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> also serves as an expertly pieced-together collage of life in Berkeley as a twentysomething in the Clinton years, a snapshot that will be immediately recognizable to readers who came of age in that decade. Part of this is achieved through simple markers, now out of date: the early internet of listservs, mall CD stores, fax machines. The book’s 173 pages are rife with obsolete objects, remembered from journals, clippings from his zine, and the many boxes of ephemera that he’s saved. (Hua is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/05/11/arts/music/popcast-collecting.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">prolific caretaker of stuff\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other part — the life that happens with the people close to you, around and between the stuff — is what Hua’s so good at capturing. It’s what’s in the faxes from his dad in Taiwan; what’s on the CDs from the mall and how his friends react to it all. \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> describes Berkeley institutions like Top Dog, Amoeba, the Daily Cal and Revolution Books; it also nails the experience of shopping at anglophile-indie record store Mod Lang, back when record stores were the only way to access new music, and clerks could afford to be haughty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 635px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline.jpg\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919839\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline.jpg\" alt=\"a young Asian man's student ID against an orange backdrop\" width=\"635\" height=\"357\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline.jpg 635w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline-160x90.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 635px) 100vw, 635px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hua Hsu’s UC Berkeley student ID. \u003ccite>(@huahsu/Twitter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One part early in the book \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2022/08/22/my-dad-and-kurt-cobain\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">describes life in 1980s Cupertino\u003c/a>, among the first wave of software engineers emigrating from Asia. Nostalgia is a curious driver of Hua’s work; he reassembles the past carefully, but not necessarily in the service of a rosy-eyed, things-used-to-be-better view. The Chinese immigrants who moved to the South Bay ten years later, Hua writes, “probably didn’t even know there was once only a single Asian grocer in the area, and it wasn’t even that good, and you had to drive a half hour to get there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the setting in Berkeley, political organizing plays a part in Hua’s life; Jesse Jackson speaks at Sproul Plaza, and Hua’s friends are excited, until three weeks later when he comes to speak again, and then later, again. Hua helps out at the Black Panthers’ storefront, protests the anti-affirmative action initiative Prop. 209, and eventually volunteers at a Richmond youth center and works with prisoners inside San Quentin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What were the ’90s? Honestly, most of it was boredom. Just as important, it was you and your friends’ various ways to alleviate boredom. That’s why I never felt comfortable with the ’90s being known as the “slacker” generation. Hua is bored, but to stave off stagnancy, he is constantly active — he makes zines and mixtapes, gets involved in causes, writes ridiculous movie scripts, marches in protests, saves \u003ca href=\"https://byhuahsu.com/listings\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a lot of things\u003c/a> along the way. He does most of it with a close group of friends by his side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what makes Ken’s death so heartbreaking. What’s worse: boredom or loss? How do you fill the hole left by a dead friend the same way you once filled long stretches of empty time, together? By the end of the book, it becomes clear that Hua’s achievement is the not-so-simple act, 24 years later, of keeping his friend alive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/688054/stay-true-by-hua-hsu/\">Stay True\u003c/a>’ is in stores now. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A new memoir from the New Yorker staff writer resists easy nostalgia, presenting an honest snapshot of the decade through mixtapes, zines, boredom and grief.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What were the ’90s? I ask myself this question more and more lately. In the past month, I’ve watched \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@horsesweremylife/video/7143108449130401066?is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v1&item_id=7143108449130401066\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a reunited Pavement\u003c/a> amble through a set of slacker anthems, witnessed \u003ca href=\"https://www.nylon.com/fashion/grunge-90s-fashion-clothes\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">high school fashion turn into grunge 2.0\u003c/a>, tried to ignore \u003ca href=\"https://pitchfork.com/features/lists-and-guides/the-best-albums-of-the-1990s/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">dumb internet lists\u003c/a> and endured daily questions about the decade from my 13-year-old daughter. “What was your favorite movie in the ’90s?” she asks me. “Was Weezer cool in the ’90s?” “Is this shirt ’90s?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Movies, music and fashion are all part of the decade, sure. Less easy to recall, 30 years later, is what daily life was actually like, and how people felt most of the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I devoured Hua Hsu’s \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> (Doubleday; $26) in one sitting, finding new answers to the question on every page. A memoir of Hua’s college years at UC Berkeley, \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> is primarily about his relationship with his best friend, Ken. Confident, loud and outgoing, Ken belongs to a frat, listens to the Dave Matthews Band and comes from a Japanese American family, “bright and optimistic in a way I found suspect.” In other words: mainstream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hua, meanwhile, is one of the millions whose outlook was changed by Nirvana. Philosophical, cynical and quiet, he nonetheless strikes up an odd friendship with Ken, who is genuinely curious in his clothes, music and books. The two grow close through smoke breaks and road trips, and stay up late together talking about life. (“We came up with brilliant theories,” Hua writes, “but forgot to write them down.”)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suddenly, Ken is murdered in a senseless carjacking, and nothing is the same. Hua describes his grief: he leans on friends, blames himself, goes to therapy and saves nearly everything Ken left behind. Somehow, some way, he settles into acceptance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The details of this particular trauma are specific. But to the lingering question — what were the ’90s? — \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> also serves as an expertly pieced-together collage of life in Berkeley as a twentysomething in the Clinton years, a snapshot that will be immediately recognizable to readers who came of age in that decade. Part of this is achieved through simple markers, now out of date: the early internet of listservs, mall CD stores, fax machines. The book’s 173 pages are rife with obsolete objects, remembered from journals, clippings from his zine, and the many boxes of ephemera that he’s saved. (Hua is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/05/11/arts/music/popcast-collecting.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">prolific caretaker of stuff\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other part — the life that happens with the people close to you, around and between the stuff — is what Hua’s so good at capturing. It’s what’s in the faxes from his dad in Taiwan; what’s on the CDs from the mall and how his friends react to it all. \u003cem>Stay True\u003c/em> describes Berkeley institutions like Top Dog, Amoeba, the Daily Cal and Revolution Books; it also nails the experience of shopping at anglophile-indie record store Mod Lang, back when record stores were the only way to access new music, and clerks could afford to be haughty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13919839\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 635px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline.jpg\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13919839\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline.jpg\" alt=\"a young Asian man's student ID against an orange backdrop\" width=\"635\" height=\"357\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline.jpg 635w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/09/Hua.inline-160x90.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 635px) 100vw, 635px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hua Hsu’s UC Berkeley student ID. \u003ccite>(@huahsu/Twitter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One part early in the book \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2022/08/22/my-dad-and-kurt-cobain\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">describes life in 1980s Cupertino\u003c/a>, among the first wave of software engineers emigrating from Asia. Nostalgia is a curious driver of Hua’s work; he reassembles the past carefully, but not necessarily in the service of a rosy-eyed, things-used-to-be-better view. The Chinese immigrants who moved to the South Bay ten years later, Hua writes, “probably didn’t even know there was once only a single Asian grocer in the area, and it wasn’t even that good, and you had to drive a half hour to get there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the setting in Berkeley, political organizing plays a part in Hua’s life; Jesse Jackson speaks at Sproul Plaza, and Hua’s friends are excited, until three weeks later when he comes to speak again, and then later, again. Hua helps out at the Black Panthers’ storefront, protests the anti-affirmative action initiative Prop. 209, and eventually volunteers at a Richmond youth center and works with prisoners inside San Quentin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What were the ’90s? Honestly, most of it was boredom. Just as important, it was you and your friends’ various ways to alleviate boredom. That’s why I never felt comfortable with the ’90s being known as the “slacker” generation. Hua is bored, but to stave off stagnancy, he is constantly active — he makes zines and mixtapes, gets involved in causes, writes ridiculous movie scripts, marches in protests, saves \u003ca href=\"https://byhuahsu.com/listings\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">a lot of things\u003c/a> along the way. He does most of it with a close group of friends by his side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what makes Ken’s death so heartbreaking. What’s worse: boredom or loss? How do you fill the hole left by a dead friend the same way you once filled long stretches of empty time, together? By the end of the book, it becomes clear that Hua’s achievement is the not-so-simple act, 24 years later, of keeping his friend alive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>‘\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/688054/stay-true-by-hua-hsu/\">Stay True\u003c/a>’ is in stores now. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Why Silicon Valley is Still the Heart of the Bay Area’s Taiwanese Restaurant Scene",
"headTitle": "Why Silicon Valley is Still the Heart of the Bay Area’s Taiwanese Restaurant Scene | KQED",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897834\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897834\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto.jpg\" alt=\"A pair of gua bao, or Taiwanese pork belly buns, on a white plate, against a stylized blue backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1277\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-1536x1022.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>(Photo by Beth LaBerge; design by Rebecca Kao)\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\">KQED’s \u003c/i>\u003c/em>Eating Taiwanese in the Bay\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\"> is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/eatingtaiwanese\">series of stories\u003c/a> exploring Taiwanese food culture in all of its glorious, delicious complexity.\u003c/i>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]D[/dropcap]riving down Stevens Creek Boulevard in Cupertino, it’s easier to find a boba drink than a Frappuccino. Hungry teenagers roam shopping centers looking for hot dogs wrapped in milk bread. And “bento,” more often than not, means a multi-compartmented Taiwanese feast of pork chop, rice, vegetables and braised egg. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not by chance that Silicon Valley became ground zero for the Bay Area’s Taiwanese food scene. Santa Clara County’s Taiwanese population is second in the U.S. only to Los Angeles County. Mom-and-pop Taiwanese eateries proliferated along with the rise of personal computers and the internet. Before long, Taiwanese Americans throughout Northern California knew that if they wanted a decent oyster omelet or beef noodle soup, chances were they’d have to trek out to a strip mall in Milpitas or Cupertino.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But just as new start-ups have forced the legacy tech companies to evolve, many of Silicon Valley’s most beloved Taiwanese restaurants now face a turning point as their founders age and the pandemic continues to hamstring their business. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Mama-Chens-Kitchen-292054490826/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mama Chen’s Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is a sunny Cupertino restaurant known for its Taiwanese small bites, including gua bao and stinky tofu—foods best enjoyed fresh out of the steamer or wok and shared with friends. Like Apple’s new offices across the street, however, the dining room’s glossy tables mostly sat empty during a recent lunch hour. “You can imagine how many people work there, I think more than 20,000 people,” owner Bobby Chan says of his depleted customer base. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897843\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1805px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897843\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of fried stinky tofu with a side of pickled cabbage on a white countertop.\" width=\"1805\" height=\"1203\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg 1805w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1805px) 100vw, 1805px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried stinky tofu: a classic Taiwanese street food dish. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chan started the restaurant in 2012 with his mother-in-law, affectionately known in the Taiwanese American community as “Mama Chen.” These days, it’s one of the many Taiwanese spots across the Valley that are struggling to reinvent themselves during the pandemic. But there’s good news too. A second generation of Taiwanese American restaurant owners have taken the reins from their parents, using social media to sell traditional foods in ways no one could have imagined when they first opened their doors. Their restaurants’ continued success speaks to an underlying truth that hasn’t changed in 20 or 30 years: If you want to understand the Bay Area’s Taiwanese food community, you have to spend time in Silicon Valley.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Taiwan’s Brain Drain and the Rise of High Tech\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I first moved to San Jose as a kid in the early 1980s. My family was part of a wave of Taiwanese Americans lured by growing companies such as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and Apple. Like many immigrants from Taiwan in the 1960s and ’70s, my parents came to the United States to pursue advanced degrees in science and engineering, part of the “brain drain” of the island’s most highly educated citizens who were newly eligible to go to America under the Immigration Act of 1965. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You had a larger number of immigrants that could come from China, from Taiwan,” explains Franklin Ng, professor of anthropology at Fresno State and author of \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Taiwanese Americans\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “A very, very fortuitously historic fact was that the United States was beginning to move into what you might call the computer age. And micro-conductors were very important at this time. And it just happened that UC Berkeley, Stanford, Stanford Industrial Park, Santa Clara, this area was important as a sort of petri dish for innovation.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But engineers weren’t necessarily good cooks. While there were restaurants serving American Chinese and Cantonese food, there weren’t many that could dish up the sweet and savory flavors, the oysters and squid, or the chewy rice and tapioca confections typical of my family’s Fujianese (or Hoklo) ancestors, who settled in Taiwan beginning in the 1600s. Nor was it easy to find the wheat-based noodles and pancakes popularized by the post-1949 transplants who arrived from China after the Chinese Civil War—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://ketagalanmedia.com/2018/12/08/history-taiwanese-identity/?fbclid=IwAR0DS4diOwKtO0AC855hk5V0x4BwonqRnmrdNIUAH5e58QfAnWd1PLo92yw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">self-described waishengren\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (literally, “people born outside the province” or “foreign-born people” in Mandarin).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My parents drove us all over the Valley searching for the madeleines of their youth: stretchy oyster omelets drizzled with sweet red chili-miso sauce, squid soup zingy with black vinegar or the warm goodness of fresh-pressed soy milk. Eventually, we found these foods and more, ordering xiaolongbao off the menu at a lunch-special joint and slurping pork chop noodles in the back of an ice cream parlor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897840\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1702px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897840\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg\" alt=\"A Taiwanese oyster omelette on a square plate, on a white countertop.\" width=\"1702\" height=\"1135\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg 1702w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1702px) 100vw, 1702px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mama Chen’s elegant version of an oyster omelet, a popular Taiwanese street food. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Luckily, changes in U.S. immigration policies also allowed for family reunification, which proved to be a further boon for the burgeoning Taiwanese restaurant scene. Chin-Shin Yang, known by her married last name “Mama Chen,” was one of the many Taiwanese immigrants who arrived in the United States in the 1980s. At first, she started selling \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pri.org/stories/2016-06-09/savory-treat-dragon-boat-festival-and-aunties-who-make-them\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bah tsàng\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, homemade leaf-wrapped rice dumplings stuffed with pork and other goodies, directly to the Taiwanese American community. By 1997 she developed enough of a following that she and her son-in-law opened their first restaurant in Milpitas, named Southland (“Tainan” in Chinese) after her hometown in Southern Taiwan. A year later, they opened another outpost in the Cupertino Village shopping center, anchored by a Ranch 99 supermarket. Those restaurants have since closed or been sold, but Mama Chen became well known in the community, often donating meals for church events or the annual Taiwanese American Cultural Festival. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897839\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1762px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897839\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg\" alt=\"Taiwanese bah tsang (or leaf-wrapped rice dumpling) in a white bowl on a white countertop.\" width=\"1762\" height=\"1175\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg 1762w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1762px) 100vw, 1762px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mama Chen started off just selling bah tsang within the local Taiwanese community. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2012, Chen and her son-in-law opened Mama Chen’s Kitchen at its current location on Stevens Creek Boulevard. Sitting down to a meal there reminds me of the area’s earliest Taiwanese restaurants—tidy family businesses that served small plates to be shared. After Chen herself passed away several years ago, Chan, her son-in-law, has continued to run the restaurant. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Many of Silicon Valley’s oldest Taiwanese restaurants opened in the late 1990s and early 2000s. In addition to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.southlandcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Southland Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Cupertino, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.queenhouserestaurant.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Queen House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened on Castro Street in Mountain View and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.taiwancafe.me/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set up shop in Milpitas. In 2000, I came back to my hometown after being away for most of the 1990s for college and work, and the changes were unmistakable. Computer chip manufacturers were moving overseas, and internet start-ups employed a steady stream of new immigrants from places like Taiwan. Boba shops had sprung up, selling deep-fried fish balls and five spice–scented popcorn chicken to go along with sweet milk teas, all to a Mandopop soundtrack.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Valley today, you can eat Taiwanese food from dawn until dusk, beginning with a bowl of sweet potato congee at Taiwan Porridge Kingdom and moving on to Southland’s savory rice pudding steamed in a bowl. You can snack on pillowy baked buns stuffed with taro or pork floss at one of the local bakeries and then finish the day with an icy lager and three-cup squid at a beer house like Red Hot Wok. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag='eating-taiwanese' label='Eating Taiwanese']Many of the Taiwanese restaurants which have risen to national prominence in recent years (Baohaus and Win Son in New York, Pine & Crane in Los Angeles) feature mostly “waisheng” menus. These dishes—like rich beef noodle soup and brothy xiaolongbao—often reflect the cattle and wheat of northern China. But Taiwan’s food is as complex and multilayered as its identity. Silicon Valley’s Taiwanese restaurants go beyond the most widely known corners of the cuisine, often emphasizing the foodways of the Hoklo, who make up an estimated 70% of the island’s population. The impact of 50 years of Japanese colonization is also writ large in the current proliferation of bentos, super-sized versions of the pork chop and rice \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://topics.amcham.com.tw/2019/01/the-biandang-from-japanese-days-to-the-present/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">lunch boxes sold on Taiwan’s railways\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Another popular dish, Chiayi chicken rice, reflects the legacy of U.S. military presence in Taiwan, spurring locals to create a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.chiayi.gov.tw/en/cp.aspx?n=530\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">meal using surplus poultry\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It’s still hard, however, to find the flavors of the island’s numerous indigenous tribes, though a charming restaurant called Cambowan in San Mateo used to serve black rice steamed in bamboo before it closed its doors for good during the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of the most beloved niche restaurants is less than three miles from Cisco headquarters. Stepping through the doors of Taiwan Cafe, with its brick walls and vintage neon signs, is like entering a village in the island’s rural south. “We like that country flavor, xiāng xià de wèi dào,” says owner Sue Chang, whose mother Lin Lan Chih opened the cafe in 2006. Some menu items are very specific to the family’s Hakka heritage. This Chinese minority group has been in Taiwan for hundreds of years; their culinary traditions, such as preserved daikon and bamboo shoots, often reflect scarcity and agricultural work. Taiwan Cafe’s specialty is Wan Luan pork, a mahogany braised hock served on a bed of tangy bamboo shoots, named after Chih’s hometown in tropical Pingtung County. Although Chang came to America at age ten, she speaks fondly and at length about traditional Hakka foods, including thick handmade ban tiao rice noodles and pork intestines stir-fried with ginger and vinegar. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Can Tech Save Taiwanese Restaurants? Third Generation and Beyond\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Many of these legacy Taiwanese restaurants were already in the midst of handing over the reins to the next generation when the pandemic sped up that process. The need to develop new revenue streams, such as deliveries or selling groceries, requires tech skills that the aging founders might not have. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a recent Saturday morning, a steady stream of customers arrived at Taiwan Cafe to pick up to-go orders which can be ordered once a week. These dishes include ready-to-eat bentos of sliced Wan Luan pork fanned over a bed of white rice topped with bamboo shoots in minced pork sauce, Hakka Delight featuring pressed tofu and pork strips stir-fried with celery and leeks, and Hoklo classics such as oyster omelet. Since March 2020, the nostalgic dining room has been closed, and it’s now filled with three industrial freezers holding vacuum-packed pork hocks, translucent pork-stuffed bah ûan and five-spice rolls waiting to be deep-fried. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, the restaurant is mostly focused on selling frozen specialties, which can be picked up locally or shipped to destinations as far-flung as Minnesota and New Jersey. Three generations are now in the business: Chang’s 23-year old daughter Stephanie Tseng handles the online orders and the Facebook page while her mother and brother run Cafe Taiwan in Pleasanton.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even more dramatic are the changes that have taken place at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://liangsvillage.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Liang’s Village\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Cupertino, best known for its beef noodle soup. The family business was first started in 1981 in the San Gabriel Valley as Mama’s Kitchen, a cafeteria featuring braised meats and tofu. The Cupertino outpost was opened by the original Mama Liang’s grandson Austin in 2010, after graduating from U.C. Berkeley. Today, Austin and his siblings Jessica and Erica run the company. In 2018, they raised $26,500 on Kickstarter to start a line of frozen foods inspired by the dishes their father sent with them to college. “Our dad had a restaurant, so we always took sauces home and froze it at school,” says Erica Liang. “Then you boil some noodles and pop it in, and it was just like the best home cooked meal.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897841\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897841\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of takeout dishes from Liang's Village in white takeout cartons.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of takeout dishes from Liang’s Village. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the beginning of the pandemic, they sold only two items: beef noodle soup and red oil wontons. Now, the newly minted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mamaliangs.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mama Liang’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> brand has a sleek, English-language website selling 19 products. Customers can get frozen meals like minced pork sauce, stewed pig’s feet and caramelized scallion noodles shipped nationwide. They’ve even dabbled in cooking videos: Earlier in May, Jessica did a demonstration of their beef noodle kit for this year’s online version of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tafestival.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese American Cultural Festival\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which is normally held in San Francisco’s Union Square. Meanwhile, the dining room remains closed, and Mama Liang’s grandchildren don’t know exactly what the future holds. “It’s a little bit hard to kind of decide on which way we’re going,” says Jessica Liang, who is waiting to see if conditions are ripe to allow restaurants to fully open this summer. “It’s really hard to justify opening a restaurant if it’s not 100% capacity.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, just a few blocks down Stevens Creek Boulevard, Bobby Chan is holding out hope of filling Mama Chen’s dining room soon. “People love to dine in instead of to-go,” he says. And he has a point. Takeout bentos and meal kits, like Zoom and FaceTime, have helped many people get through this year. But there’s something inherently un-Taiwanese about eating alone in front of a screen. Taiwanese people love to eat together. The sensory experience of trying restaurants with friends, or strolling through a crowded night market together, is as much part of the culture as the food itself.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And while it’s hard to know when these restaurants will return to some sense of normalcy, or how much more this next generation of small business owners will shake up the status quo, one thing’s for certain: Taiwanese restaurants in Silicon Valley are here to stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13897264\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"127\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-160x25.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-768x122.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Grace Hwang Lynch is a San Francisco Bay Area journalist and essayist, with an eye for Asian American culture and food. Her work can be found at PRI, NPR, Tin House and Catapult. She’s at work on a memoir about Taiwanese food and family. Follow her on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/GraceHwangLynch\">@GraceHwangLynch\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897834\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897834\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto.jpg\" alt=\"A pair of gua bao, or Taiwanese pork belly buns, on a white plate, against a stylized blue backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1277\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/SVTaiwanese_FinalInArticlePhoto-1536x1022.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>(Photo by Beth LaBerge; design by Rebecca Kao)\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\">KQED’s \u003c/i>\u003c/em>Eating Taiwanese in the Bay\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\"> is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/eatingtaiwanese\">series of stories\u003c/a> exploring Taiwanese food culture in all of its glorious, delicious complexity.\u003c/i>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">D\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>riving down Stevens Creek Boulevard in Cupertino, it’s easier to find a boba drink than a Frappuccino. Hungry teenagers roam shopping centers looking for hot dogs wrapped in milk bread. And “bento,” more often than not, means a multi-compartmented Taiwanese feast of pork chop, rice, vegetables and braised egg. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not by chance that Silicon Valley became ground zero for the Bay Area’s Taiwanese food scene. Santa Clara County’s Taiwanese population is second in the U.S. only to Los Angeles County. Mom-and-pop Taiwanese eateries proliferated along with the rise of personal computers and the internet. Before long, Taiwanese Americans throughout Northern California knew that if they wanted a decent oyster omelet or beef noodle soup, chances were they’d have to trek out to a strip mall in Milpitas or Cupertino.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But just as new start-ups have forced the legacy tech companies to evolve, many of Silicon Valley’s most beloved Taiwanese restaurants now face a turning point as their founders age and the pandemic continues to hamstring their business. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Mama-Chens-Kitchen-292054490826/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mama Chen’s Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is a sunny Cupertino restaurant known for its Taiwanese small bites, including gua bao and stinky tofu—foods best enjoyed fresh out of the steamer or wok and shared with friends. Like Apple’s new offices across the street, however, the dining room’s glossy tables mostly sat empty during a recent lunch hour. “You can imagine how many people work there, I think more than 20,000 people,” owner Bobby Chan says of his depleted customer base. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897843\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1805px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897843\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of fried stinky tofu with a side of pickled cabbage on a white countertop.\" width=\"1805\" height=\"1203\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg 1805w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/025_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1805px) 100vw, 1805px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried stinky tofu: a classic Taiwanese street food dish. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chan started the restaurant in 2012 with his mother-in-law, affectionately known in the Taiwanese American community as “Mama Chen.” These days, it’s one of the many Taiwanese spots across the Valley that are struggling to reinvent themselves during the pandemic. But there’s good news too. A second generation of Taiwanese American restaurant owners have taken the reins from their parents, using social media to sell traditional foods in ways no one could have imagined when they first opened their doors. Their restaurants’ continued success speaks to an underlying truth that hasn’t changed in 20 or 30 years: If you want to understand the Bay Area’s Taiwanese food community, you have to spend time in Silicon Valley.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Taiwan’s Brain Drain and the Rise of High Tech\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I first moved to San Jose as a kid in the early 1980s. My family was part of a wave of Taiwanese Americans lured by growing companies such as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and Apple. Like many immigrants from Taiwan in the 1960s and ’70s, my parents came to the United States to pursue advanced degrees in science and engineering, part of the “brain drain” of the island’s most highly educated citizens who were newly eligible to go to America under the Immigration Act of 1965. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You had a larger number of immigrants that could come from China, from Taiwan,” explains Franklin Ng, professor of anthropology at Fresno State and author of \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Taiwanese Americans\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “A very, very fortuitously historic fact was that the United States was beginning to move into what you might call the computer age. And micro-conductors were very important at this time. And it just happened that UC Berkeley, Stanford, Stanford Industrial Park, Santa Clara, this area was important as a sort of petri dish for innovation.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But engineers weren’t necessarily good cooks. While there were restaurants serving American Chinese and Cantonese food, there weren’t many that could dish up the sweet and savory flavors, the oysters and squid, or the chewy rice and tapioca confections typical of my family’s Fujianese (or Hoklo) ancestors, who settled in Taiwan beginning in the 1600s. Nor was it easy to find the wheat-based noodles and pancakes popularized by the post-1949 transplants who arrived from China after the Chinese Civil War—the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://ketagalanmedia.com/2018/12/08/history-taiwanese-identity/?fbclid=IwAR0DS4diOwKtO0AC855hk5V0x4BwonqRnmrdNIUAH5e58QfAnWd1PLo92yw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">self-described waishengren\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (literally, “people born outside the province” or “foreign-born people” in Mandarin).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My parents drove us all over the Valley searching for the madeleines of their youth: stretchy oyster omelets drizzled with sweet red chili-miso sauce, squid soup zingy with black vinegar or the warm goodness of fresh-pressed soy milk. Eventually, we found these foods and more, ordering xiaolongbao off the menu at a lunch-special joint and slurping pork chop noodles in the back of an ice cream parlor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897840\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1702px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897840\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg\" alt=\"A Taiwanese oyster omelette on a square plate, on a white countertop.\" width=\"1702\" height=\"1135\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg 1702w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/001_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1702px) 100vw, 1702px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mama Chen’s elegant version of an oyster omelet, a popular Taiwanese street food. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Luckily, changes in U.S. immigration policies also allowed for family reunification, which proved to be a further boon for the burgeoning Taiwanese restaurant scene. Chin-Shin Yang, known by her married last name “Mama Chen,” was one of the many Taiwanese immigrants who arrived in the United States in the 1980s. At first, she started selling \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pri.org/stories/2016-06-09/savory-treat-dragon-boat-festival-and-aunties-who-make-them\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bah tsàng\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, homemade leaf-wrapped rice dumplings stuffed with pork and other goodies, directly to the Taiwanese American community. By 1997 she developed enough of a following that she and her son-in-law opened their first restaurant in Milpitas, named Southland (“Tainan” in Chinese) after her hometown in Southern Taiwan. A year later, they opened another outpost in the Cupertino Village shopping center, anchored by a Ranch 99 supermarket. Those restaurants have since closed or been sold, but Mama Chen became well known in the community, often donating meals for church events or the annual Taiwanese American Cultural Festival. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897839\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1762px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897839\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg\" alt=\"Taiwanese bah tsang (or leaf-wrapped rice dumpling) in a white bowl on a white countertop.\" width=\"1762\" height=\"1175\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021.jpg 1762w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/006_Cupertino_MamaChensKitchen_05172021-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1762px) 100vw, 1762px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mama Chen started off just selling bah tsang within the local Taiwanese community. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2012, Chen and her son-in-law opened Mama Chen’s Kitchen at its current location on Stevens Creek Boulevard. Sitting down to a meal there reminds me of the area’s earliest Taiwanese restaurants—tidy family businesses that served small plates to be shared. After Chen herself passed away several years ago, Chan, her son-in-law, has continued to run the restaurant. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Many of Silicon Valley’s oldest Taiwanese restaurants opened in the late 1990s and early 2000s. In addition to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.southlandcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Southland Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Cupertino, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.queenhouserestaurant.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Queen House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened on Castro Street in Mountain View and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.taiwancafe.me/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwan Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set up shop in Milpitas. In 2000, I came back to my hometown after being away for most of the 1990s for college and work, and the changes were unmistakable. Computer chip manufacturers were moving overseas, and internet start-ups employed a steady stream of new immigrants from places like Taiwan. Boba shops had sprung up, selling deep-fried fish balls and five spice–scented popcorn chicken to go along with sweet milk teas, all to a Mandopop soundtrack.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the Valley today, you can eat Taiwanese food from dawn until dusk, beginning with a bowl of sweet potato congee at Taiwan Porridge Kingdom and moving on to Southland’s savory rice pudding steamed in a bowl. You can snack on pillowy baked buns stuffed with taro or pork floss at one of the local bakeries and then finish the day with an icy lager and three-cup squid at a beer house like Red Hot Wok. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Many of the Taiwanese restaurants which have risen to national prominence in recent years (Baohaus and Win Son in New York, Pine & Crane in Los Angeles) feature mostly “waisheng” menus. These dishes—like rich beef noodle soup and brothy xiaolongbao—often reflect the cattle and wheat of northern China. But Taiwan’s food is as complex and multilayered as its identity. Silicon Valley’s Taiwanese restaurants go beyond the most widely known corners of the cuisine, often emphasizing the foodways of the Hoklo, who make up an estimated 70% of the island’s population. The impact of 50 years of Japanese colonization is also writ large in the current proliferation of bentos, super-sized versions of the pork chop and rice \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://topics.amcham.com.tw/2019/01/the-biandang-from-japanese-days-to-the-present/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">lunch boxes sold on Taiwan’s railways\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Another popular dish, Chiayi chicken rice, reflects the legacy of U.S. military presence in Taiwan, spurring locals to create a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.chiayi.gov.tw/en/cp.aspx?n=530\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">meal using surplus poultry\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It’s still hard, however, to find the flavors of the island’s numerous indigenous tribes, though a charming restaurant called Cambowan in San Mateo used to serve black rice steamed in bamboo before it closed its doors for good during the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of the most beloved niche restaurants is less than three miles from Cisco headquarters. Stepping through the doors of Taiwan Cafe, with its brick walls and vintage neon signs, is like entering a village in the island’s rural south. “We like that country flavor, xiāng xià de wèi dào,” says owner Sue Chang, whose mother Lin Lan Chih opened the cafe in 2006. Some menu items are very specific to the family’s Hakka heritage. This Chinese minority group has been in Taiwan for hundreds of years; their culinary traditions, such as preserved daikon and bamboo shoots, often reflect scarcity and agricultural work. Taiwan Cafe’s specialty is Wan Luan pork, a mahogany braised hock served on a bed of tangy bamboo shoots, named after Chih’s hometown in tropical Pingtung County. Although Chang came to America at age ten, she speaks fondly and at length about traditional Hakka foods, including thick handmade ban tiao rice noodles and pork intestines stir-fried with ginger and vinegar. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Can Tech Save Taiwanese Restaurants? Third Generation and Beyond\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Many of these legacy Taiwanese restaurants were already in the midst of handing over the reins to the next generation when the pandemic sped up that process. The need to develop new revenue streams, such as deliveries or selling groceries, requires tech skills that the aging founders might not have. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a recent Saturday morning, a steady stream of customers arrived at Taiwan Cafe to pick up to-go orders which can be ordered once a week. These dishes include ready-to-eat bentos of sliced Wan Luan pork fanned over a bed of white rice topped with bamboo shoots in minced pork sauce, Hakka Delight featuring pressed tofu and pork strips stir-fried with celery and leeks, and Hoklo classics such as oyster omelet. Since March 2020, the nostalgic dining room has been closed, and it’s now filled with three industrial freezers holding vacuum-packed pork hocks, translucent pork-stuffed bah ûan and five-spice rolls waiting to be deep-fried. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, the restaurant is mostly focused on selling frozen specialties, which can be picked up locally or shipped to destinations as far-flung as Minnesota and New Jersey. Three generations are now in the business: Chang’s 23-year old daughter Stephanie Tseng handles the online orders and the Facebook page while her mother and brother run Cafe Taiwan in Pleasanton.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even more dramatic are the changes that have taken place at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://liangsvillage.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Liang’s Village\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Cupertino, best known for its beef noodle soup. The family business was first started in 1981 in the San Gabriel Valley as Mama’s Kitchen, a cafeteria featuring braised meats and tofu. The Cupertino outpost was opened by the original Mama Liang’s grandson Austin in 2010, after graduating from U.C. Berkeley. Today, Austin and his siblings Jessica and Erica run the company. In 2018, they raised $26,500 on Kickstarter to start a line of frozen foods inspired by the dishes their father sent with them to college. “Our dad had a restaurant, so we always took sauces home and froze it at school,” says Erica Liang. “Then you boil some noodles and pop it in, and it was just like the best home cooked meal.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897841\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897841\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A spread of takeout dishes from Liang's Village in white takeout cartons.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTakeout_GHL-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of takeout dishes from Liang’s Village. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the beginning of the pandemic, they sold only two items: beef noodle soup and red oil wontons. Now, the newly minted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mamaliangs.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mama Liang’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> brand has a sleek, English-language website selling 19 products. Customers can get frozen meals like minced pork sauce, stewed pig’s feet and caramelized scallion noodles shipped nationwide. They’ve even dabbled in cooking videos: Earlier in May, Jessica did a demonstration of their beef noodle kit for this year’s online version of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tafestival.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese American Cultural Festival\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which is normally held in San Francisco’s Union Square. Meanwhile, the dining room remains closed, and Mama Liang’s grandchildren don’t know exactly what the future holds. “It’s a little bit hard to kind of decide on which way we’re going,” says Jessica Liang, who is waiting to see if conditions are ripe to allow restaurants to fully open this summer. “It’s really hard to justify opening a restaurant if it’s not 100% capacity.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, just a few blocks down Stevens Creek Boulevard, Bobby Chan is holding out hope of filling Mama Chen’s dining room soon. “People love to dine in instead of to-go,” he says. And he has a point. Takeout bentos and meal kits, like Zoom and FaceTime, have helped many people get through this year. But there’s something inherently un-Taiwanese about eating alone in front of a screen. Taiwanese people love to eat together. The sensory experience of trying restaurants with friends, or strolling through a crowded night market together, is as much part of the culture as the food itself.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And while it’s hard to know when these restaurants will return to some sense of normalcy, or how much more this next generation of small business owners will shake up the status quo, one thing’s for certain: Taiwanese restaurants in Silicon Valley are here to stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13897264\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"127\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-160x25.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-768x122.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Grace Hwang Lynch is a San Francisco Bay Area journalist and essayist, with an eye for Asian American culture and food. Her work can be found at PRI, NPR, Tin House and Catapult. She’s at work on a memoir about Taiwanese food and family. Follow her on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/GraceHwangLynch\">@GraceHwangLynch\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How the Pandemic Brought Taiwanese Food Back to Me",
"headTitle": "How the Pandemic Brought Taiwanese Food Back to Me | KQED",
"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897689\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897689\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of Pintung cold noodles with peanut sauce, garnished with slivers of cucumber, against a blue backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1277\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-1536x1022.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>(Photo by Esmé Weijun Wang; design by Rebecca Kao)\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\">KQED’s \u003c/i>\u003c/em>Eating Taiwanese in the Bay\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\"> is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/eatingtaiwanese\">series of stories\u003c/a> exploring Taiwanese food culture in all of its glorious, delicious complexity.\u003c/i>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]I[/dropcap] grew up as the daughter of Taiwanese immigrants—first in San Jose, and later in a South Bay suburb clocked as having only a 5.1% Asian population in 1990, when I was in elementary school. Other Asian American students were rare, and Taiwanese American students were even rarer; there were no Taiwanese American kids in my day-to-day life, as far as I knew. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese cuisine, on the other hand, remained a large part of my childhood. At home I ate light meals of vegetables and fish, with little oil, cooked by my mother. On weekends, my family went to Marina Foods or Ranch 99 for groceries after lunch at Cupertino Village, a mostly Asian shopping and restaurant center where we’d feast on soup dumplings and beef noodle soup, leaf-wrapped zhongzi and spicy string beans limp on the plate. At the end of every meal, we’d go to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/FantasiaCupertino/\">boba tea cafe called Fantasia\u003c/a> for thick, buttered toast and boba. Even back then, before boba had been widely recognized by the non-Taiwanese palate, the place was already popular among high school students.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, as a San Francisco resident, I am sometimes asked about where to best enjoy Chinese food in the city, and my answer is usually a verbal shrug. Whereas San Francisco’s famous Chinatown is historically working-class Cantonese, most Taiwanese immigrants to the Bay Area ended up in places like Cupertino, Milpitas, Foster City and Fremont, which is why so many of the region’s Taiwanese restaurants opened there. After I moved to San Francisco, my consumption of Chinese food dropped dramatically—to say nothing of Taiwanese food, which became nonexistent. Approximately a decade had passed since I’d lived in the South Bay, and I didn’t know where to find the dishes that I had grown up eating; visiting Cupertino was no longer a regular part of my schedule. In San Francisco, I was even confused about where to find the Taiwanese grocery brands with which I was so familiar, and relied on my brother and his wife for deliveries of Bull Head barbecue sauce and pink net–wrapped packages of made-in-Taiwan rice noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Near the beginning of the pandemic, a friend sent me a link to \u003ca href=\"https://liangsvillage.com/pages/menu#\">Liang’s Village\u003c/a>, a Cupertino-based Taiwanese restaurant that had newly begun advertising Bay Area-wide delivery ever since it halted dine-in service during lockdown. I was delighted to find that their menu offered so many familiar dishes: preserved egg and tofu with pork sung and scallions, fried pork chop rice, beef and tendon noodle soup, and black bean with pork and bean curd noodles. These were dishes that my mother had made at home, or that I’d eaten during those weekend excursions to Cupertino.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897688\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2397px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897688\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW.jpg\" alt=\"Against a white background, a bowl of braised tofu topped with chili sauce; a spoon cuts into the tender tofu.\" width=\"2397\" height=\"1595\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW.jpg 2397w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2397px) 100vw, 2397px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The stewed tofu with oyster sauce from Liang’s Village provided comfort during the pandemic. \u003ccite>(Esmé Weijun Wang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over time, I began to order from Liang’s Village on a regular basis, rediscovering my favorites easily as the restaurant dropped large boxes of food on my doorstep. I’ve ordered four or five servings of the stewed tofu with oyster sauce at a time, enjoying the silken tofu wrapped in a wrinkled bean curd skin anytime I felt like it. When the package of Pingtung cold noodles arrived at my door—called “Cold Peanut Noodle” on the Liang’s Village menu—I dumped the entire mixture of slippery noodles, peanut-sesame sauce and julienned cucumbers into a bowl, which I gleefully enjoyed in bed. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pingtung, a city located in Southern Taiwan, is where the proprietors of Liang’s Village are from. As it happens, it’s also where my mother is from; I was supposed to visit family in the Pingtung countryside in 2020 before COVID derailed those plans. Eating Pingtung-style chilled noodles in peanut sauce was one way of nearing that experience. The Liang’s noodles were almost identical to the ones my mother made when I was growing up, minus the shredded chicken breast that she added along with the slender toothpicks of cucumber. It was a dish to be enjoyed in the summer, when the temperatures sometimes reached the triple digits and we couldn’t fathom eating a hot dish. My mother would summon us with the Taiwanese call, jia bng o’ (“come to eat”). We’d gather around the dining table, waiting for my father to dine first before we all slurped and sighed with gratitude.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag='eating-taiwanese' label='Eating Taiwanese']Another dish that brought a flood of memories was the stewed duck wings, which Liang’s delivered frozen. My father used to bring home warm baggies of these wings from the hot dish section of Marina Foods throughout my adolescence, stashing them in the fridge for late-night snacking. It was known within the family that the wings belonged primarily to him and me, because my mother and brother didn’t enjoy them. Now, years later, living in San Francisco, I placed the frozen, vacuum-sealed packet from Liang’s Village inside our fridge. Once defrosted, the duck wings had a chewy, occasionally gelatinous texture. Without my father to share them with me, I enjoyed the wings slowly, over a period of several days, though I missed the communal joy that he and I had shared. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of my favorite things from Liang’s is a fresh-squeezed, bottled beverage called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/B_dtcrOF_f9/\">Honey Grape Fruit Squeeze\u003c/a>. Like many fresh-squeezed juices in Taiwan, this one is cut with tea, and arrives with gorgeous jewels of pulp and chunks of peeled grapefruit that can be forked through the opening. It’s a pleasure that I enjoy by itself like a dessert—a final delight to follow the assortment of familiar dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It feels strange that it took a catastrophic, international pandemic—and a restaurant’s need to pivot its business during lockdown—to bring Taiwanese food back into my life. But I’ve been grateful for these familiar comforts. Being able to take solace in a spicy bowl of wrinkly bean curd has brought me closer not only to my family, but also to a culinary lineage of my ancestors.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My parents moved back to Taiwan approximately a decade ago. Only recently did I talk with my mother on the LINE app about visiting near the end of the year. I’ve reached the fabled two-week point after my second dose of the Moderna vaccine; I’ve been able to dream of getting on that thirteen-hour flight again. Meanwhile, however, I have a frozen package of duck wings in the fridge, waiting for me to snip it open and enjoy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13897264\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"127\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-160x25.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-768x122.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Esmé Weijun Wang is a Taiwanese American writer. She is the author of \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Border of Paradise\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bestseller \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Collected Schizophrenias\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897689\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897689\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of Pintung cold noodles with peanut sauce, garnished with slivers of cucumber, against a blue backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1277\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/PandemicTaiwanese-InArticle-1536x1022.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>(Photo by Esmé Weijun Wang; design by Rebecca Kao)\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\">KQED’s \u003c/i>\u003c/em>Eating Taiwanese in the Bay\u003cem>\u003ci data-stringify-type=\"italic\"> is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/eatingtaiwanese\">series of stories\u003c/a> exploring Taiwanese food culture in all of its glorious, delicious complexity.\u003c/i>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp> grew up as the daughter of Taiwanese immigrants—first in San Jose, and later in a South Bay suburb clocked as having only a 5.1% Asian population in 1990, when I was in elementary school. Other Asian American students were rare, and Taiwanese American students were even rarer; there were no Taiwanese American kids in my day-to-day life, as far as I knew. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Taiwanese cuisine, on the other hand, remained a large part of my childhood. At home I ate light meals of vegetables and fish, with little oil, cooked by my mother. On weekends, my family went to Marina Foods or Ranch 99 for groceries after lunch at Cupertino Village, a mostly Asian shopping and restaurant center where we’d feast on soup dumplings and beef noodle soup, leaf-wrapped zhongzi and spicy string beans limp on the plate. At the end of every meal, we’d go to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/FantasiaCupertino/\">boba tea cafe called Fantasia\u003c/a> for thick, buttered toast and boba. Even back then, before boba had been widely recognized by the non-Taiwanese palate, the place was already popular among high school students.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, as a San Francisco resident, I am sometimes asked about where to best enjoy Chinese food in the city, and my answer is usually a verbal shrug. Whereas San Francisco’s famous Chinatown is historically working-class Cantonese, most Taiwanese immigrants to the Bay Area ended up in places like Cupertino, Milpitas, Foster City and Fremont, which is why so many of the region’s Taiwanese restaurants opened there. After I moved to San Francisco, my consumption of Chinese food dropped dramatically—to say nothing of Taiwanese food, which became nonexistent. Approximately a decade had passed since I’d lived in the South Bay, and I didn’t know where to find the dishes that I had grown up eating; visiting Cupertino was no longer a regular part of my schedule. In San Francisco, I was even confused about where to find the Taiwanese grocery brands with which I was so familiar, and relied on my brother and his wife for deliveries of Bull Head barbecue sauce and pink net–wrapped packages of made-in-Taiwan rice noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Near the beginning of the pandemic, a friend sent me a link to \u003ca href=\"https://liangsvillage.com/pages/menu#\">Liang’s Village\u003c/a>, a Cupertino-based Taiwanese restaurant that had newly begun advertising Bay Area-wide delivery ever since it halted dine-in service during lockdown. I was delighted to find that their menu offered so many familiar dishes: preserved egg and tofu with pork sung and scallions, fried pork chop rice, beef and tendon noodle soup, and black bean with pork and bean curd noodles. These were dishes that my mother had made at home, or that I’d eaten during those weekend excursions to Cupertino.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13897688\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2397px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13897688\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW.jpg\" alt=\"Against a white background, a bowl of braised tofu topped with chili sauce; a spoon cuts into the tender tofu.\" width=\"2397\" height=\"1595\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW.jpg 2397w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/LiangsTofu_EsmeWW-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2397px) 100vw, 2397px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The stewed tofu with oyster sauce from Liang’s Village provided comfort during the pandemic. \u003ccite>(Esmé Weijun Wang)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over time, I began to order from Liang’s Village on a regular basis, rediscovering my favorites easily as the restaurant dropped large boxes of food on my doorstep. I’ve ordered four or five servings of the stewed tofu with oyster sauce at a time, enjoying the silken tofu wrapped in a wrinkled bean curd skin anytime I felt like it. When the package of Pingtung cold noodles arrived at my door—called “Cold Peanut Noodle” on the Liang’s Village menu—I dumped the entire mixture of slippery noodles, peanut-sesame sauce and julienned cucumbers into a bowl, which I gleefully enjoyed in bed. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pingtung, a city located in Southern Taiwan, is where the proprietors of Liang’s Village are from. As it happens, it’s also where my mother is from; I was supposed to visit family in the Pingtung countryside in 2020 before COVID derailed those plans. Eating Pingtung-style chilled noodles in peanut sauce was one way of nearing that experience. The Liang’s noodles were almost identical to the ones my mother made when I was growing up, minus the shredded chicken breast that she added along with the slender toothpicks of cucumber. It was a dish to be enjoyed in the summer, when the temperatures sometimes reached the triple digits and we couldn’t fathom eating a hot dish. My mother would summon us with the Taiwanese call, jia bng o’ (“come to eat”). We’d gather around the dining table, waiting for my father to dine first before we all slurped and sighed with gratitude.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Another dish that brought a flood of memories was the stewed duck wings, which Liang’s delivered frozen. My father used to bring home warm baggies of these wings from the hot dish section of Marina Foods throughout my adolescence, stashing them in the fridge for late-night snacking. It was known within the family that the wings belonged primarily to him and me, because my mother and brother didn’t enjoy them. Now, years later, living in San Francisco, I placed the frozen, vacuum-sealed packet from Liang’s Village inside our fridge. Once defrosted, the duck wings had a chewy, occasionally gelatinous texture. Without my father to share them with me, I enjoyed the wings slowly, over a period of several days, though I missed the communal joy that he and I had shared. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of my favorite things from Liang’s is a fresh-squeezed, bottled beverage called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/B_dtcrOF_f9/\">Honey Grape Fruit Squeeze\u003c/a>. Like many fresh-squeezed juices in Taiwan, this one is cut with tea, and arrives with gorgeous jewels of pulp and chunks of peeled grapefruit that can be forked through the opening. It’s a pleasure that I enjoy by itself like a dessert—a final delight to follow the assortment of familiar dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It feels strange that it took a catastrophic, international pandemic—and a restaurant’s need to pivot its business during lockdown—to bring Taiwanese food back into my life. But I’ve been grateful for these familiar comforts. Being able to take solace in a spicy bowl of wrinkly bean curd has brought me closer not only to my family, but also to a culinary lineage of my ancestors.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My parents moved back to Taiwan approximately a decade ago. Only recently did I talk with my mother on the LINE app about visiting near the end of the year. I’ve reached the fabled two-week point after my second dose of the Moderna vaccine; I’ve been able to dream of getting on that thirteen-hour flight again. Meanwhile, however, I have a frozen package of duck wings in the fridge, waiting for me to snip it open and enjoy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13897264\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"127\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-160x25.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/05/Taiwan.logobreak.greyish-768x122.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Esmé Weijun Wang is a Taiwanese American writer. She is the author of \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Border of Paradise\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and the \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bestseller \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Collected Schizophrenias\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Live streamers could be forgiven for wondering if the Oscars had moved to the Steve Jobs Theater in Cupertino Monday morning, because there were so many big Hollywood stars on stage. Steven Spielberg, Steve Carrell, J.J. Abrams, Reese Witherspoon, Jennifer Aniston, and… why am I burying the lede?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Oprah!\u003c/em> Why is \u003cem>she\u003c/em> working with Apple to deliver two documentaries and a book club? “Because they’re in a billion pockets, y’all! A billion pockets!” she roared to an adoring crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a reveal that lasted almost two hours, Apple announced major new forays into the worlds of news, gaming and entertainment. All three are mature industries with a lot of competition. But perhaps the tech giant’s gutsiest move is into entertainment. It’s hard to imagine how Apple TV+ — due to arrive sometime this fall — will be qualitatively different from the wide range of content already on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>See the “sizzle reel” from the Apple presentation.[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt5k5Ix_wS8]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, Apple has been late to a game before, and still redefined the field of play. \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnet.com/profiles/iansherr/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ian Sherr\u003c/a>, editor at large at CNET News, has seen it happen several times: with the personal computer, the tablet, and the smart phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That’s one of the fascinating things about Apple. They always wait to see what works and what doesn’t, and then they come in and they do their own version of it, and it tends to be really successful,” Sherr said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Apple’s relationship with customers has started to wane over the past few years as the company has seen the role of its hardware diminish in people’s lives,” said \u003ca href=\"https://www.forrester.com/James-L.-McQuivey\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">James McQuivey\u003c/a>, an analyst at Forrester tracking digital disruption. “Focusing on more media and entertainment experiences that are exclusive to the Apple experience will revivify Apple’s relationship with its customers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.blockandtackle.biz/home\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Ben Block\u003c/a>, who writes about the business of entertainment for a variety of media outlets, is more skeptical. “While it is hard to underestimate Apple, this moves them into an area where there is much greater competition. Entertainment is widely available at little or no cost, and competitors led by Netfilx and Amazon are already offering more than Apple, even with the star names involved,” Ben Block wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He added, “The lesson of Amazon is that they had to offer a lot more than entertainment to get people to sign up for Prime, and they floundered until they had a hit series with \u003cem>Mrs. Maisel\u003c/em> which got people to sign up and continue. Apple needs to find its \u003cem>Mrs. Maisel\u003c/em> quickly or it could lose a ton of money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Sherr believes Apple has the wherewithal to go up against the biggest names in streaming entertainment: Netflix, Amazon, and Disney. Notice how two of the three names on that list are also digital natives?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13850292,arts_13836539,arts_13852981' label='Related Coverage']The biggest threat, if it ever materializes, would be from federal antitrust regulators. “The tech industry broadly has been going towards this trend of what’s called verticalization, where they own every bit of what I’m buying,” Sherr said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One last thing: Apple is one of the most highly valued companies on the planet. And like its biggest rivals in Silicon Valley, Apple has the capacity to run at a massive loss. Maybe not indefinitely, but for longer than most Hollywood old-timers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There is always room for disruption,” Sherr said. “If Apple does it right.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Live streamers could be forgiven for wondering if the Oscars had moved to the Steve Jobs Theater in Cupertino Monday morning, because there were so many big Hollywood stars on stage. Steven Spielberg, Steve Carrell, J.J. Abrams, Reese Witherspoon, Jennifer Aniston, and… why am I burying the lede?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Oprah!\u003c/em> Why is \u003cem>she\u003c/em> working with Apple to deliver two documentaries and a book club? “Because they’re in a billion pockets, y’all! A billion pockets!” she roared to an adoring crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a reveal that lasted almost two hours, Apple announced major new forays into the worlds of news, gaming and entertainment. All three are mature industries with a lot of competition. But perhaps the tech giant’s gutsiest move is into entertainment. It’s hard to imagine how Apple TV+ — due to arrive sometime this fall — will be qualitatively different from the wide range of content already on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>See the “sizzle reel” from the Apple presentation.\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Bt5k5Ix_wS8'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Bt5k5Ix_wS8'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, Apple has been late to a game before, and still redefined the field of play. \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnet.com/profiles/iansherr/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ian Sherr\u003c/a>, editor at large at CNET News, has seen it happen several times: with the personal computer, the tablet, and the smart phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That’s one of the fascinating things about Apple. They always wait to see what works and what doesn’t, and then they come in and they do their own version of it, and it tends to be really successful,” Sherr said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Apple’s relationship with customers has started to wane over the past few years as the company has seen the role of its hardware diminish in people’s lives,” said \u003ca href=\"https://www.forrester.com/James-L.-McQuivey\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">James McQuivey\u003c/a>, an analyst at Forrester tracking digital disruption. “Focusing on more media and entertainment experiences that are exclusive to the Apple experience will revivify Apple’s relationship with its customers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.blockandtackle.biz/home\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alex Ben Block\u003c/a>, who writes about the business of entertainment for a variety of media outlets, is more skeptical. “While it is hard to underestimate Apple, this moves them into an area where there is much greater competition. Entertainment is widely available at little or no cost, and competitors led by Netfilx and Amazon are already offering more than Apple, even with the star names involved,” Ben Block wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He added, “The lesson of Amazon is that they had to offer a lot more than entertainment to get people to sign up for Prime, and they floundered until they had a hit series with \u003cem>Mrs. Maisel\u003c/em> which got people to sign up and continue. Apple needs to find its \u003cem>Mrs. Maisel\u003c/em> quickly or it could lose a ton of money.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Sherr believes Apple has the wherewithal to go up against the biggest names in streaming entertainment: Netflix, Amazon, and Disney. Notice how two of the three names on that list are also digital natives?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The biggest threat, if it ever materializes, would be from federal antitrust regulators. “The tech industry broadly has been going towards this trend of what’s called verticalization, where they own every bit of what I’m buying,” Sherr said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One last thing: Apple is one of the most highly valued companies on the planet. And like its biggest rivals in Silicon Valley, Apple has the capacity to run at a massive loss. Maybe not indefinitely, but for longer than most Hollywood old-timers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There is always room for disruption,” Sherr said. “If Apple does it right.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Hollywood has the Hollywood Sign. San Francisco has the Golden Gate Bridge.\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> \u003c/span>But there’s no one iconic visual the world recognizes as embodying Silicon Valley. \u003ci>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The garage in Palo Alto where Hewlett Packard began? Too humble, visually speaking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How about Apple’s snazzy new\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> corporate headquarters\u003c/span> in Cupertino? Too corporate, and frankly, a little chilling in this dystopian era of Big Tech choking the San Francisco Bay Area with traffic and rising real estate prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Electric Light Tower, a commanding if spindly precursor to the Eiffel Tower championed by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanjoselighttower.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Jose Light Tower Corporation\u003c/a> was inspiring in its day, but a modern version would likely prove more of a nostalgic nod to times past than a cohesive symbol of what we are today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s really no one visual that says “Silicon Valley.” Or “South Bay.”\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What are people going to Instagram when they come to San Jose and Silicon Valley?” asks \u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/author/sal-pizarro/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sal Pizarro\u003c/a>, Around Town columnist with the \u003ci>Mercury News\u003c/i>. One might argue the region doesn’t need an icon if one hasn’t organically emerged by now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Pizarro says a \u003ca href=\"https://sanjose.legistar.com/LegislationDetail.aspx?ID=3871636&GUID=6E11BF0F-5D33-4866-80BE-0811F12A3BEC&Options=&Search=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">new design competition\u003c/a> in San Jose — and the patronizing coverage that followed from various publications led by the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/09/technology/silicon-valley-monument-landmark.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> this past week — indicates that, perhaps, we do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13853000\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13853000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-800x646.png\" alt=\"The Electric Light Tower was proposed by the publisher of the San Jose Mercury, the precursor of the Mercury News. In 1881, the tower was a pioneering use of electricity for municipal purposes. \" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-800x646.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-160x129.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-768x620.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-1020x824.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-1200x970.png 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM.png 1260w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Electric Light Tower was proposed by the publisher of the San Jose Mercury, the precursor of the Mercury News. In 1881, the tower was a pioneering use of electricity for municipal purposes. \u003ccite>(Photo: Courtesy of San Jose State University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We do have a problem identifying who we are,” Pizarro acknowledges. “I think we’ve got a great culture, and a great arts scene here, and we have some really wonderful things to do. But when someone comes from out of town, it’s hard to say, ‘We have great Vietnamese restaurants. Take a picture in front of them.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That works for me. How \u003ci>about\u003c/i> a giant bowl of pho?\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why is it so hard to come up with one idea everyone can get behind?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one thing, there’s a problem conflating San Jose with Silicon Valley. The two aren’t the same thing. Also, there is no disputing in matters of taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"page\" title=\"Page 18\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"section\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"layoutArea\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"column\">\n\u003cp>The San Jose Light Tower Corporation’s plan is to hold an international competition to solicit concepts for a “world-class iconic landmark” tentatively intended for Guadalupe River Park at Arena Green.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"page\" title=\"Page 2\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"layoutArea\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"column\">\n\u003cp>Three finalists chosen by a seven-member jury will be awarded a monetary stipend to develop their ideas for further review and selection of the final design. Sometime in early 2020, the nonprofit will return to the San Jose City Council with a recommendation and seek authorization to proceed with design and development.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13853002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 747px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13853002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/giphy.gif\" alt='How HBO cracked the nut for its \"Silicon Valley\" show open.' width=\"747\" height=\"419\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">How HBO cracked the nut for its “Silicon Valley” show open. \u003ccite>(Photo: Courtesy of HBO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I’m confident that no matter how good the design, it will not work for everyone,” says San Jose Mayor Sam Liccardo. “There will be someone who has a reason to object. But that’s OK. We don’t need unanimity to move forward with something that is compelling, and hopefully inspiring.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, he has an idea to submit for the contest, and no, he’s not going to share it with us at this time. “Hell, no! I want it to win!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Hollywood has the Hollywood Sign. San Francisco has the Golden Gate Bridge.\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> \u003c/span>But there’s no one iconic visual the world recognizes as embodying Silicon Valley. \u003ci>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The garage in Palo Alto where Hewlett Packard began? Too humble, visually speaking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How about Apple’s snazzy new\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> corporate headquarters\u003c/span> in Cupertino? Too corporate, and frankly, a little chilling in this dystopian era of Big Tech choking the San Francisco Bay Area with traffic and rising real estate prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Electric Light Tower, a commanding if spindly precursor to the Eiffel Tower championed by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanjoselighttower.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">San Jose Light Tower Corporation\u003c/a> was inspiring in its day, but a modern version would likely prove more of a nostalgic nod to times past than a cohesive symbol of what we are today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s really no one visual that says “Silicon Valley.” Or “South Bay.”\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What are people going to Instagram when they come to San Jose and Silicon Valley?” asks \u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/author/sal-pizarro/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Sal Pizarro\u003c/a>, Around Town columnist with the \u003ci>Mercury News\u003c/i>. One might argue the region doesn’t need an icon if one hasn’t organically emerged by now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Pizarro says a \u003ca href=\"https://sanjose.legistar.com/LegislationDetail.aspx?ID=3871636&GUID=6E11BF0F-5D33-4866-80BE-0811F12A3BEC&Options=&Search=\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">new design competition\u003c/a> in San Jose — and the patronizing coverage that followed from various publications led by the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/09/technology/silicon-valley-monument-landmark.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> this past week — indicates that, perhaps, we do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13853000\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13853000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-800x646.png\" alt=\"The Electric Light Tower was proposed by the publisher of the San Jose Mercury, the precursor of the Mercury News. In 1881, the tower was a pioneering use of electricity for municipal purposes. \" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-800x646.png 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-160x129.png 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-768x620.png 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-1020x824.png 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM-1200x970.png 1200w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/5b218a82a2fa13a462b50dbe_Screen-Shot-2018-06-13-at-5.18.57-PM.png 1260w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Electric Light Tower was proposed by the publisher of the San Jose Mercury, the precursor of the Mercury News. In 1881, the tower was a pioneering use of electricity for municipal purposes. \u003ccite>(Photo: Courtesy of San Jose State University)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We do have a problem identifying who we are,” Pizarro acknowledges. “I think we’ve got a great culture, and a great arts scene here, and we have some really wonderful things to do. But when someone comes from out of town, it’s hard to say, ‘We have great Vietnamese restaurants. Take a picture in front of them.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That works for me. How \u003ci>about\u003c/i> a giant bowl of pho?\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why is it so hard to come up with one idea everyone can get behind?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one thing, there’s a problem conflating San Jose with Silicon Valley. The two aren’t the same thing. Also, there is no disputing in matters of taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"page\" title=\"Page 18\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"section\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"layoutArea\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"column\">\n\u003cp>The San Jose Light Tower Corporation’s plan is to hold an international competition to solicit concepts for a “world-class iconic landmark” tentatively intended for Guadalupe River Park at Arena Green.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"page\" title=\"Page 2\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"layoutArea\">\n\u003cdiv class=\"column\">\n\u003cp>Three finalists chosen by a seven-member jury will be awarded a monetary stipend to develop their ideas for further review and selection of the final design. Sometime in early 2020, the nonprofit will return to the San Jose City Council with a recommendation and seek authorization to proceed with design and development.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003c/div>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13853002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 747px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13853002\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/03/giphy.gif\" alt='How HBO cracked the nut for its \"Silicon Valley\" show open.' width=\"747\" height=\"419\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">How HBO cracked the nut for its “Silicon Valley” show open. \u003ccite>(Photo: Courtesy of HBO)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I’m confident that no matter how good the design, it will not work for everyone,” says San Jose Mayor Sam Liccardo. “There will be someone who has a reason to object. But that’s OK. We don’t need unanimity to move forward with something that is compelling, and hopefully inspiring.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, he has an idea to submit for the contest, and no, he’s not going to share it with us at this time. “Hell, no! I want it to win!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/arts/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
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"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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