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"slug": "egg-tarts-san-jose-pop-up-bakery-a-m-patisserie-pastel-de-nata",
"title": "This San José Pop-Up Bakery Sells 18 Different Varieties of Egg Tarts",
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"content": "\u003cp>You might imagine that most egg tarts are relatively indistinguishable, with their pastry cups and plain, sunglow-colored custard filling. You wouldn’t necessarily expect the treats to get remixed into dozens of different flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That hasn’t stopped \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie\">A&M Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The San José–based bakery pop-up sells a whopping eighteen different egg tart flavors, many of them inspired by various Asian cuisines. At a makers’ market at the Santa Clara Convention Center in November, a perpetual line of at least fifty customers swarmed the A&M booth for hours, everyone scanning the banner menu to decide which of the palm-sized egg tarts to order. A wide range of unconventional toppings included things like toasted marshmallows, flame-kissed corn kernels, \u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/milk-crumb-382321\">milk crumbs\u003c/a> and caramelized banana slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alice Ngo and Minh Pham first started making egg tarts at home during the COVID lockdown. “We got laid off and had nothing to do,” says Pham. “Alice got bored and started baking.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ngo taught herself how to make Portuguese egg tarts (aka pastéis de nata) by watching YouTube videos. After getting positive feedback from friends and family, the couple started selling the pastries to the public through Instagram and Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984906\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984906\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham.jpg\" alt=\"An Asian woman and man in matching black hooded sweatshirts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A&M founders Alice Ngo (left) and Minh Pham. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I wasn’t a baker, I was a cook,” says Pham. “But I enjoy pastries since I was born in France.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He moved to the United States in 2016 to pursue a tech career, but decided against working a desk job. Instead, he started working in restaurants and took cooking classes through the hospitality management program at Mission College. These days, Pham is the primary egg tart producer, juggling the pop-up with his day job as a baker at Alexander’s Patisserie. Meanwhile, Ngo uses her experience working at a hotel to handle the pop-up’s front-of-house operations and customer service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The defining characteristic of a Portuguese-style egg tart is the custard filling’s blistered, caramelized top, which sets it apart from both British egg tarts and Cantonese \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/daan-tat-hong-kong-style-egg-tart-5208534\">dan tat\u003c/a> — the popular dim sum dish that is probably the best-known egg tart variation here in the Bay Area. Meanwhile, Macau, a former Portuguese territory, is known for egg tarts with a scorched custard that’s eggier and less sweet than pastel de nata. The distinctions between the styles have blurred over time, but originally British custard tarts used a shortbread crust and the others were made with puff pastry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984904\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984904\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case.jpg\" alt=\"Display case with 18 different varieties of egg tarts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"924\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case-160x74.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case-768x355.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case-1536x710.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All 18 flavors in the display case at an A&M pop-up event in November 2025. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ngo and Pham eventually shifted away from the traditional pastel de nata because they wanted their egg tarts to be lighter and less sweet. They make the puff pastry shell extra-crispy and flaky to complement their creamy custards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted something in between so I took the best of both and created my own,” says Pham. “It’s not Macau. It’s not Portuguese. It’s A&M’s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13983625,arts_13984330,arts_13981935']\u003c/span>But the biggest thing that sets A&M Pâtisserie’s egg tarts apart is the sheer variety of flavors. The menu is ever growing as the bakers draw inspiration from their favorite pastries and restaurant dishes. Their guava egg tart is modeled after the guava-and-cheese strudel at Porto’s, the legendary Los Angeles–based Cuban bakery. The corn cheese flavor was inspired by kon-chijeu, their favorite Korean banchan. A few of A&M’s egg tarts, like the honey-garlic flavor, even have savory elements. The bakery also sells cookies, macarons and canelés.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A&M’s first large pop-ups were at FoodieLand’s 2023 festival series, which spanned several cities including Sacramento, Berkeley and San Mateo. Now, the bakery’s busiest events of the year are SJMade’s November Holiday Fair and its Winter Wonder Market in December. “The first year, we brought 600 and sold out within three hours,” Pham says of the holiday fair. “Then, the second year we brought 800 and sold out by 2 p.m.” This year, they scaled up to 1,500 egg tarts for each day of the two-day event, which required an entire month of prep time. The most time-consuming component is the multi-layered puff pastry, which takes hours to assemble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984903\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984903\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM.jpg\" alt=\"Long line of customers waiting to buy egg tarts. A large banner overhead shows the different flavors available. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A long line of customers waiting to order at one of A&M’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During my visit to the A&M booth at last month’s SJMade Holiday Fair, I split a six-pack of egg tarts with my fiancée, my cousin and his girlfriend. After each bite, there was an audible “mmm” from each member of the party. We loved the classic egg tart custard’s glassy surface and creamy, light interior. My favorite was the yuzu egg tart, which had an intense acidity to balance the butteriness of the crust and strips of candied yuzu peel to mellow out the experience. A close second was the seasonal pistachio egg tart with chunks of pistachio on top for some crunch. Each person in the group had their own favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery’s next step will be to experiment with savory egg tarts that have a quiche-like filling. Pham plans to introduce these to the menu once he figures out a way to bring an oven into their pop-up space, so he can serve them warm. He and Ngo are also constantly improving their existing flavors — the matcha egg tart is being upgraded to matcha mochi, and the s’mores tart will soon incorporate homemade marshmallow. The pop-up’s next seasonal special is a salted egg yolk tart that’s scheduled to release around Lunar New Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have 18 flavors of egg tarts now,” says Pham. “I can say confidently we’re the only ones offering that many flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie/\">\u003ci>A&M Pâtisserie\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at events around the Bay. The next pop-up is at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjosemade.com/pages/winter-wonder-market-2025\">\u003ci>SJ Made Winter Wonder Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at South Hall (435 S. Market St., San José) on Dec. 13–14, 11 a.m.–6 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A&M Pâtisserie's pastries draw inspiration from Cuban guava strudels and Korean cheese corn.",
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"title": "This San José Pop-Up Bakery Sells 18 Different Varieties of Egg Tarts | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You might imagine that most egg tarts are relatively indistinguishable, with their pastry cups and plain, sunglow-colored custard filling. You wouldn’t necessarily expect the treats to get remixed into dozens of different flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That hasn’t stopped \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie\">A&M Pâtisserie\u003c/a>. The San José–based bakery pop-up sells a whopping eighteen different egg tart flavors, many of them inspired by various Asian cuisines. At a makers’ market at the Santa Clara Convention Center in November, a perpetual line of at least fifty customers swarmed the A&M booth for hours, everyone scanning the banner menu to decide which of the palm-sized egg tarts to order. A wide range of unconventional toppings included things like toasted marshmallows, flame-kissed corn kernels, \u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/milk-crumb-382321\">milk crumbs\u003c/a> and caramelized banana slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alice Ngo and Minh Pham first started making egg tarts at home during the COVID lockdown. “We got laid off and had nothing to do,” says Pham. “Alice got bored and started baking.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ngo taught herself how to make Portuguese egg tarts (aka pastéis de nata) by watching YouTube videos. After getting positive feedback from friends and family, the couple started selling the pastries to the public through Instagram and Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984906\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984906\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham.jpg\" alt=\"An Asian woman and man in matching black hooded sweatshirts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Alice-Ngo-and-Minh-Pham-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A&M founders Alice Ngo (left) and Minh Pham. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I wasn’t a baker, I was a cook,” says Pham. “But I enjoy pastries since I was born in France.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He moved to the United States in 2016 to pursue a tech career, but decided against working a desk job. Instead, he started working in restaurants and took cooking classes through the hospitality management program at Mission College. These days, Pham is the primary egg tart producer, juggling the pop-up with his day job as a baker at Alexander’s Patisserie. Meanwhile, Ngo uses her experience working at a hotel to handle the pop-up’s front-of-house operations and customer service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The defining characteristic of a Portuguese-style egg tart is the custard filling’s blistered, caramelized top, which sets it apart from both British egg tarts and Cantonese \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/daan-tat-hong-kong-style-egg-tart-5208534\">dan tat\u003c/a> — the popular dim sum dish that is probably the best-known egg tart variation here in the Bay Area. Meanwhile, Macau, a former Portuguese territory, is known for egg tarts with a scorched custard that’s eggier and less sweet than pastel de nata. The distinctions between the styles have blurred over time, but originally British custard tarts used a shortbread crust and the others were made with puff pastry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984904\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984904\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case.jpg\" alt=\"Display case with 18 different varieties of egg tarts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"924\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case-160x74.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case-768x355.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Display-Case-1536x710.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All 18 flavors in the display case at an A&M pop-up event in November 2025. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ngo and Pham eventually shifted away from the traditional pastel de nata because they wanted their egg tarts to be lighter and less sweet. They make the puff pastry shell extra-crispy and flaky to complement their creamy custards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted something in between so I took the best of both and created my own,” says Pham. “It’s not Macau. It’s not Portuguese. It’s A&M’s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>But the biggest thing that sets A&M Pâtisserie’s egg tarts apart is the sheer variety of flavors. The menu is ever growing as the bakers draw inspiration from their favorite pastries and restaurant dishes. Their guava egg tart is modeled after the guava-and-cheese strudel at Porto’s, the legendary Los Angeles–based Cuban bakery. The corn cheese flavor was inspired by kon-chijeu, their favorite Korean banchan. A few of A&M’s egg tarts, like the honey-garlic flavor, even have savory elements. The bakery also sells cookies, macarons and canelés.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A&M’s first large pop-ups were at FoodieLand’s 2023 festival series, which spanned several cities including Sacramento, Berkeley and San Mateo. Now, the bakery’s busiest events of the year are SJMade’s November Holiday Fair and its Winter Wonder Market in December. “The first year, we brought 600 and sold out within three hours,” Pham says of the holiday fair. “Then, the second year we brought 800 and sold out by 2 p.m.” This year, they scaled up to 1,500 egg tarts for each day of the two-day event, which required an entire month of prep time. The most time-consuming component is the multi-layered puff pastry, which takes hours to assemble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984903\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984903\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM.jpg\" alt=\"Long line of customers waiting to buy egg tarts. A large banner overhead shows the different flavors available. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/12/Line-of-customers-at-AM-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A long line of customers waiting to order at one of A&M’s pop-ups. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During my visit to the A&M booth at last month’s SJMade Holiday Fair, I split a six-pack of egg tarts with my fiancée, my cousin and his girlfriend. After each bite, there was an audible “mmm” from each member of the party. We loved the classic egg tart custard’s glassy surface and creamy, light interior. My favorite was the yuzu egg tart, which had an intense acidity to balance the butteriness of the crust and strips of candied yuzu peel to mellow out the experience. A close second was the seasonal pistachio egg tart with chunks of pistachio on top for some crunch. Each person in the group had their own favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bakery’s next step will be to experiment with savory egg tarts that have a quiche-like filling. Pham plans to introduce these to the menu once he figures out a way to bring an oven into their pop-up space, so he can serve them warm. He and Ngo are also constantly improving their existing flavors — the matcha egg tart is being upgraded to matcha mochi, and the s’mores tart will soon incorporate homemade marshmallow. The pop-up’s next seasonal special is a salted egg yolk tart that’s scheduled to release around Lunar New Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have 18 flavors of egg tarts now,” says Pham. “I can say confidently we’re the only ones offering that many flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/a.m.patisserie/\">\u003ci>A&M Pâtisserie\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> pops up at events around the Bay. The next pop-up is at the \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sanjosemade.com/pages/winter-wonder-market-2025\">\u003ci>SJ Made Winter Wonder Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> at South Hall (435 S. Market St., San José) on Dec. 13–14, 11 a.m.–6 p.m.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "hand-pulled-chinese-noodles-late-night-dao-artisan-noodle-san-leandro",
"title": "An East Bay Newcomer Slings Hand-Pulled Noodles and XLB Until Midnight",
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"headTitle": "An East Bay Newcomer Slings Hand-Pulled Noodles and XLB Until Midnight | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13983728\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13983728\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Man devours a bowl of Chinese noodles while his companion prepares to eat a soup dumpling. On the table are other assorted dishes: a cucumber salad, a steamer of soup dumplings, beef pancake, and bowl of salmon fried rice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of food at Dao Artisan Noodle. The San Leandro restaurant specializes in Lanzhou-style hand-pulled noodles and other dough-based Northern Chinese dishes. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tucked away in an unassuming suburban neighborhood in San Leandro, the 88 Manor Market shopping plaza had all but shut down for the night by the time we pulled up at 10:30 p.m. on a recent Friday. The Asian grocery, the chicken phở spot next door, the boba shop, the beauty parlor — all already closed for hours. Just a single storefront was still brightly lit up, bustling with a packed dining room full of hungry customers bent over steamers full of juicy soup dumplings and piping-hot bowls of noodles — an enticing offer as our fall evening grew chillier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/daoartisannoodle/\">Dao Artisan Noodle\u003c/a>, and while it’s only been open for a couple of months, it seems to have already established itself as \u003ci>the\u003c/i> place to grab a late-night bite in San Leandro, especially if you’re a noodle-loving Asian American (or other Asian food enthusiast).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have the good fortune to be experiencing something of a noodle renaissance here in the Bay Area, where until recently Chinese restaurants specializing in handmade noodles were a relative rarity. Now, it feels like every few weeks there’s another new restaurant rolling out fresh \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/25/22245029/huangcheng-noodle-house-opening-photos-oakland-shanxi-knife-cut-noodles\">Shanxi knife-cut noodles\u003c/a>, spicy \u003ca href=\"https://maps.apple.com/place?place-id=I39F1A23B05035EC0&address=358+11th+St%2C+Oakland%2C+CA++94607%2C+United+States&coordinate=37.8015093%2C-122.2702454&name=Mr+Liu+Noodle+House&_provider=9902\">Chongqing noodles\u003c/a> or the kind of stretchy \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/impression_of_lanzhou/?hl=en\">Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles\u003c/a> that you’ll find at Dao Artisan Noodle. And Dao is the only East Bay spot we’re aware of that’s selling hand-pulled noodles and handmade xiao long bao (XLB) until midnight every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lanzhou noodles might be the flashiest of the Chinese regional styles — maybe you’ve seen videos of veteran noodle masters acrobatically twisting and stretching the dough, then \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@lanfulanzhoulamian/video/7560248389233855751\">dividing it between their fingertips over and over\u003c/a>, like \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6CtXa1_sA\">Cat’s Cradle virtuosos\u003c/a>, until they’ve formed a pile of bouncy, impossibly thin noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the day, the whole song and dance of the noodle-making is one of Dao’s selling points, as diners can watch the chefs make the dumplings and noodles by hand inside the restaurant’s glass-encased show kitchen. By the time we sat down to eat, those uncles and aunties had long gone home, which also meant that the menu options were a little bit more limited. Instead of being able to choose between five different noodle shapes and thicknesses (ranging from “thin” to “knife cut”), only the “regular” round noodles, roughly the shape and thickness of bucatini, were available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what excellent noodles they were, with a Goldilocks-like level of chewiness, neither too soggy nor distractingly al dente — just right for slurping and soaking up the savoriness of the braised beef noodle soup that I ordered. The chunks of meat were tender; the beefy, clean-tasting broth had a pleasant undercurrent heat. It was an ideal bowl of comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also liked the soupless, oil-slicked beef short rib noodles, which had a tongue-tingling mala flavor profile and came with a big, showy hunk of meat on the bone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13983727\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13983727\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant at night. The bright neon-lit sign reads \"Dao Artisan Noodle.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is open until midnight every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dao has a broader, more varied menu than your standard noodle shop, though its specialties are its dough-based items. Apart from the noodles, Dao’s biggest selling point is its xiao long bao (aka soup dumplings), which come six to an order and are clearly handmade — thin-skinned and intricately pleated if a little rustic in appearance, and about 30 percent larger and plumper than I expected. None of that weak-hearted XLB-in-a-little-cupcake-sleeve here: These are soup dumplings you can pick up with your chopsticks and jiggle and bounce on your plate without a drop of the broth inside — the hot, savory, perfectly seasoned broth — leaking out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another surprise favorite: Dao’s beef wrap rolls, which look like the same meat-stuffed pancakes you can get at any number of Chinese restaurants in the Bay — except that the hoisin-soaked beef inside is much tenderer and more luxuriously fatty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13983249,arts_13980212,arts_13969092']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Dao’s classic Northern Chinese noodle and dumpling offerings are tasty enough to satisfy the most persnickety traditionalist. But the restaurant also has an edgy, modern streak that adds a dash of fun and whimsy to the menu — uni soft-boiled eggs and bright red, lychee-shaped fried shrimp balls. The cucumber salad we ordered had been drizzled in chili oil, like we expected, but also something sweet (condensed milk??) we couldn’t quite identify — a “secret recipe,” the server told us. Somehow the flavors worked. And one of our favorite dishes was a bowl of subtly earthy crab roe–infused salmon fried rice, which came topped with large chunks of skin-on salmon and a scattering of pleasantly crunchy flying fish eggs — a veritable bargain for $14.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, almost everything on the menu costs less than $15, making it easy to take a chance and try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the sidewalk outside, the restaurant had even put out a signboard advertising the soft launch of its newest creation: pistachio-topped \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12060700/dubai-chocolate-recipe-pistachios-climate-change-california\">\u003ci>Dubai chocolate\u003c/i>\u003c/a> xiao long bao. And sure, the whole concept of dessert XLB might be an abomination to the dumpling gods (I am nothing if not a traditionalist in this regard). But everything we’ve eaten at Dao so far has been a hit. In other words, I look forward to one of \u003ci>you\u003c/i> biting the bullet to taste these little bundles of melted chocolate. I can’t wait to hear how they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/daoartisannoodle/\">\u003ci>Dao Artisan Noodle\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 10:30 a.m.–midnight daily at 15032 Farnsworth St. in San Leandro.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "In San Leandro, Hand-Pulled Noodles and XLB Until Midnight | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13983728\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13983728\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Man devours a bowl of Chinese noodles while his companion prepares to eat a soup dumpling. On the table are other assorted dishes: a cucumber salad, a steamer of soup dumplings, beef pancake, and bowl of salmon fried rice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread of food at Dao Artisan Noodle. The San Leandro restaurant specializes in Lanzhou-style hand-pulled noodles and other dough-based Northern Chinese dishes. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tucked away in an unassuming suburban neighborhood in San Leandro, the 88 Manor Market shopping plaza had all but shut down for the night by the time we pulled up at 10:30 p.m. on a recent Friday. The Asian grocery, the chicken phở spot next door, the boba shop, the beauty parlor — all already closed for hours. Just a single storefront was still brightly lit up, bustling with a packed dining room full of hungry customers bent over steamers full of juicy soup dumplings and piping-hot bowls of noodles — an enticing offer as our fall evening grew chillier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/daoartisannoodle/\">Dao Artisan Noodle\u003c/a>, and while it’s only been open for a couple of months, it seems to have already established itself as \u003ci>the\u003c/i> place to grab a late-night bite in San Leandro, especially if you’re a noodle-loving Asian American (or other Asian food enthusiast).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have the good fortune to be experiencing something of a noodle renaissance here in the Bay Area, where until recently Chinese restaurants specializing in handmade noodles were a relative rarity. Now, it feels like every few weeks there’s another new restaurant rolling out fresh \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/1/25/22245029/huangcheng-noodle-house-opening-photos-oakland-shanxi-knife-cut-noodles\">Shanxi knife-cut noodles\u003c/a>, spicy \u003ca href=\"https://maps.apple.com/place?place-id=I39F1A23B05035EC0&address=358+11th+St%2C+Oakland%2C+CA++94607%2C+United+States&coordinate=37.8015093%2C-122.2702454&name=Mr+Liu+Noodle+House&_provider=9902\">Chongqing noodles\u003c/a> or the kind of stretchy \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/impression_of_lanzhou/?hl=en\">Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles\u003c/a> that you’ll find at Dao Artisan Noodle. And Dao is the only East Bay spot we’re aware of that’s selling hand-pulled noodles and handmade xiao long bao (XLB) until midnight every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lanzhou noodles might be the flashiest of the Chinese regional styles — maybe you’ve seen videos of veteran noodle masters acrobatically twisting and stretching the dough, then \u003ca href=\"https://www.tiktok.com/@lanfulanzhoulamian/video/7560248389233855751\">dividing it between their fingertips over and over\u003c/a>, like \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6CtXa1_sA\">Cat’s Cradle virtuosos\u003c/a>, until they’ve formed a pile of bouncy, impossibly thin noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the day, the whole song and dance of the noodle-making is one of Dao’s selling points, as diners can watch the chefs make the dumplings and noodles by hand inside the restaurant’s glass-encased show kitchen. By the time we sat down to eat, those uncles and aunties had long gone home, which also meant that the menu options were a little bit more limited. Instead of being able to choose between five different noodle shapes and thicknesses (ranging from “thin” to “knife cut”), only the “regular” round noodles, roughly the shape and thickness of bucatini, were available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what excellent noodles they were, with a Goldilocks-like level of chewiness, neither too soggy nor distractingly al dente — just right for slurping and soaking up the savoriness of the braised beef noodle soup that I ordered. The chunks of meat were tender; the beefy, clean-tasting broth had a pleasant undercurrent heat. It was an ideal bowl of comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also liked the soupless, oil-slicked beef short rib noodles, which had a tongue-tingling mala flavor profile and came with a big, showy hunk of meat on the bone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13983727\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13983727\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant at night. The bright neon-lit sign reads \"Dao Artisan Noodle.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/daonoodles-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is open until midnight every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dao has a broader, more varied menu than your standard noodle shop, though its specialties are its dough-based items. Apart from the noodles, Dao’s biggest selling point is its xiao long bao (aka soup dumplings), which come six to an order and are clearly handmade — thin-skinned and intricately pleated if a little rustic in appearance, and about 30 percent larger and plumper than I expected. None of that weak-hearted XLB-in-a-little-cupcake-sleeve here: These are soup dumplings you can pick up with your chopsticks and jiggle and bounce on your plate without a drop of the broth inside — the hot, savory, perfectly seasoned broth — leaking out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another surprise favorite: Dao’s beef wrap rolls, which look like the same meat-stuffed pancakes you can get at any number of Chinese restaurants in the Bay — except that the hoisin-soaked beef inside is much tenderer and more luxuriously fatty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Dao’s classic Northern Chinese noodle and dumpling offerings are tasty enough to satisfy the most persnickety traditionalist. But the restaurant also has an edgy, modern streak that adds a dash of fun and whimsy to the menu — uni soft-boiled eggs and bright red, lychee-shaped fried shrimp balls. The cucumber salad we ordered had been drizzled in chili oil, like we expected, but also something sweet (condensed milk??) we couldn’t quite identify — a “secret recipe,” the server told us. Somehow the flavors worked. And one of our favorite dishes was a bowl of subtly earthy crab roe–infused salmon fried rice, which came topped with large chunks of skin-on salmon and a scattering of pleasantly crunchy flying fish eggs — a veritable bargain for $14.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, almost everything on the menu costs less than $15, making it easy to take a chance and try something new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the sidewalk outside, the restaurant had even put out a signboard advertising the soft launch of its newest creation: pistachio-topped \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12060700/dubai-chocolate-recipe-pistachios-climate-change-california\">\u003ci>Dubai chocolate\u003c/i>\u003c/a> xiao long bao. And sure, the whole concept of dessert XLB might be an abomination to the dumpling gods (I am nothing if not a traditionalist in this regard). But everything we’ve eaten at Dao so far has been a hit. In other words, I look forward to one of \u003ci>you\u003c/i> biting the bullet to taste these little bundles of melted chocolate. I can’t wait to hear how they are.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/daoartisannoodle/\">\u003ci>Dao Artisan Noodle\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 10:30 a.m.–midnight daily at 15032 Farnsworth St. in San Leandro.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "hing-lung-new-chinese-barbecue-roast-duck-tenderloin-quack-house-chinatown",
"title": "A Quintessential SF Chinatown Barbecue Shop Moves to the Tenderloin",
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"content": "\u003cp>For more than four decades, Hing Lung Company was one of the crown jewels of San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a>. The cramped, slightly dingy, old-school Cantonese butcher shop consistently cranked out some of the juiciest roast duck and crispiest-skinned siu yuk (roast pork belly) in town. Because the shop didn’t have any seating to speak of, popping open a takeout carton of its luscious, wonderfully fatty roast duck in your parked car, or huddled on the sidewalk, was one of those quintessential San Francisco dining experiences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was the end of an era, then, when Hing Lung \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/hing-lung-chinatown-moving-19387517.php\">shuttered its Stockton Street storefront\u003c/a> last April, citing long, drawn-out rent negotiations with the landlord that fell through in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closure was especially bittersweet as it came right when brothers Eric and Simon Cheung were poised to bring the legacy business — which they \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Brothers-reinvent-their-father-s-meat-shop-in-12375005.php\">took over from their father, Wing, a decade ago\u003c/a> — to a new level of mainstream success. That same month, the Cheung brothers opened Go Duck Yourself, a swanky sit-down Chinese barbecue restaurant in Bernal Heights, to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13968986/best-dishes-bay-area-2024\">rave\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/go-duck-yourself-chinatown-19797728.php\">reviews\u003c/a>. And if all goes according to plan, the newest addition to the brothers’ roast meats empire will open in the Tenderloin in the next couple of weeks: a casual deli-style barbecue counter called Quack House.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968998\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968998\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of Cantonese roast duck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Go Duck Yourself’s signature Cantonese roast duck. At Quack House, the duck will also be available as a to-go rice plate. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Just like the old Hing Lung, Quack House won’t have any dine-in seating and will focus exclusively on quick-service to-go items — barbecue rice plates, whole ducks and chickens, and other Cantonese-style roast meats and charcuterie sold by the pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patricia Tien — Eric’s wife and a spokesperson for the business — acknowledges that it was sad to leave Chinatown behind. The Cheung brothers’ father passed away three years ago, and the Stockton Street storefront was really his legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We didn’t abandon you,” she says, addressing Hing Lung’s longtime customers directly. “We fought really hard to make Chinatown work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, Tien says, the building was just in too poor physical condition to justify the rent the landlords were demanding. “Every time it rained outside, it would rain in our kitchen. It would drip down into the oil pot, and you would get burned,” she recalls. “We worked like that for five or six years.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13982243\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13982243\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of crispy roast pork belly, cut into slics and packed in a to-go container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A siu yuk, or crispy-skinned pork belly, rice plate packed for takeout. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Go Duck Yourself)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, though, Quack House will mark a return to those old Hing Lung roots. The new brick-lined Tenderloin location — former home of the upscale \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/BqlMRaVH95d/?hl=en\">Meraki Market\u003c/a> — will be more modern-looking than the Stockton Street butcher shop and will rely on tablet stations instead of having customers line up at the counter to order deli-style. But customers who complained that you couldn’t grab a quick, affordable meal for one person at the sit-down restaurant in Bernal Heights will be heartened by the return of those rice plates, which will be priced at $18–$20 for rice, greens and a quarter pound of meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13976695,arts_13981793,arts_13968986']Home cooks will also be able to buy a variety of Chinese cured sausages, Chinese bacon and pressed salted duck, just like they could in the old Hing Lung days. And there will be some more modern twists as well, including a pork jerky sandwich the chefs are working on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The more central Tenderloin location will also allow Quack House to offer delivery service further into the Richmond and Sunset districts, where a lot of Hing Lung’s customers live. And of course it also won’t be too far away from Chinatown either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tien says that many of Hing Lung’s old customers have already trekked out to Bernal Heights to visit Go Duck Yourself at least once or twice. “When they come, we get two different reactions. One is that the prices are really high compared to what we had in Chinatown,” Tien says. “But we also have another reaction, which is, ‘Good for you guys.’ This kind of food \u003ci>should\u003c/i> be praised more, and you should really promote this to the Western world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tien says most of the old Chinatown customers wind up feeling happy with their Go Duck Yourself experience — happy, she says, that the restaurant didn’t “white down the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13982244\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13982244\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9.jpg\" alt=\"Two chefs work in a busy Chinese restaurant kitchen.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1271\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9-160x102.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9-1536x976.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cheung brothers at work in the kitchen at their Bernal Heights restaurant. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Go Duck Yourself)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For now, the Cheung brothers are retiring the Hing Lung name — in part to mark a new beginning, and also because there are so many other Chinese businesses called “Hing Lung” (meaning “prosperous”) in the Bay Area. But the new restaurant will be an homage to the original Hing Lung in many ways, including the (newly restored) original signage and a display of old photos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cheungs also haven’t ruled out the possibility of opening a new shop in Chinatown at some point in the future. If they do? They might just have to roll out the Hing Lung name once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Quack House is located at 927 Post St. in San Francisco. The owners hope to open sometime in October 2025. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For more than four decades, Hing Lung Company was one of the crown jewels of San Francisco \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a>. The cramped, slightly dingy, old-school Cantonese butcher shop consistently cranked out some of the juiciest roast duck and crispiest-skinned siu yuk (roast pork belly) in town. Because the shop didn’t have any seating to speak of, popping open a takeout carton of its luscious, wonderfully fatty roast duck in your parked car, or huddled on the sidewalk, was one of those quintessential San Francisco dining experiences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was the end of an era, then, when Hing Lung \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/hing-lung-chinatown-moving-19387517.php\">shuttered its Stockton Street storefront\u003c/a> last April, citing long, drawn-out rent negotiations with the landlord that fell through in the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closure was especially bittersweet as it came right when brothers Eric and Simon Cheung were poised to bring the legacy business — which they \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Brothers-reinvent-their-father-s-meat-shop-in-12375005.php\">took over from their father, Wing, a decade ago\u003c/a> — to a new level of mainstream success. That same month, the Cheung brothers opened Go Duck Yourself, a swanky sit-down Chinese barbecue restaurant in Bernal Heights, to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13968986/best-dishes-bay-area-2024\">rave\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/go-duck-yourself-chinatown-19797728.php\">reviews\u003c/a>. And if all goes according to plan, the newest addition to the brothers’ roast meats empire will open in the Tenderloin in the next couple of weeks: a casual deli-style barbecue counter called Quack House.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968998\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968998\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of Cantonese roast duck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/12/go-duck-yourself-duck-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Go Duck Yourself’s signature Cantonese roast duck. At Quack House, the duck will also be available as a to-go rice plate. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Just like the old Hing Lung, Quack House won’t have any dine-in seating and will focus exclusively on quick-service to-go items — barbecue rice plates, whole ducks and chickens, and other Cantonese-style roast meats and charcuterie sold by the pound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patricia Tien — Eric’s wife and a spokesperson for the business — acknowledges that it was sad to leave Chinatown behind. The Cheung brothers’ father passed away three years ago, and the Stockton Street storefront was really his legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We didn’t abandon you,” she says, addressing Hing Lung’s longtime customers directly. “We fought really hard to make Chinatown work.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, Tien says, the building was just in too poor physical condition to justify the rent the landlords were demanding. “Every time it rained outside, it would rain in our kitchen. It would drip down into the oil pot, and you would get burned,” she recalls. “We worked like that for five or six years.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13982243\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13982243\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of crispy roast pork belly, cut into slics and packed in a to-go container.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/CE7F71C2-DF88-40EC-971B-CA7A80189AE1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A siu yuk, or crispy-skinned pork belly, rice plate packed for takeout. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Go Duck Yourself)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In many ways, though, Quack House will mark a return to those old Hing Lung roots. The new brick-lined Tenderloin location — former home of the upscale \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/BqlMRaVH95d/?hl=en\">Meraki Market\u003c/a> — will be more modern-looking than the Stockton Street butcher shop and will rely on tablet stations instead of having customers line up at the counter to order deli-style. But customers who complained that you couldn’t grab a quick, affordable meal for one person at the sit-down restaurant in Bernal Heights will be heartened by the return of those rice plates, which will be priced at $18–$20 for rice, greens and a quarter pound of meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Home cooks will also be able to buy a variety of Chinese cured sausages, Chinese bacon and pressed salted duck, just like they could in the old Hing Lung days. And there will be some more modern twists as well, including a pork jerky sandwich the chefs are working on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The more central Tenderloin location will also allow Quack House to offer delivery service further into the Richmond and Sunset districts, where a lot of Hing Lung’s customers live. And of course it also won’t be too far away from Chinatown either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tien says that many of Hing Lung’s old customers have already trekked out to Bernal Heights to visit Go Duck Yourself at least once or twice. “When they come, we get two different reactions. One is that the prices are really high compared to what we had in Chinatown,” Tien says. “But we also have another reaction, which is, ‘Good for you guys.’ This kind of food \u003ci>should\u003c/i> be praised more, and you should really promote this to the Western world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tien says most of the old Chinatown customers wind up feeling happy with their Go Duck Yourself experience — happy, she says, that the restaurant didn’t “white down the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13982244\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13982244\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9.jpg\" alt=\"Two chefs work in a busy Chinese restaurant kitchen.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1271\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9-160x102.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9-768x488.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/10/946D1353-A981-43FC-8BF2-B826D21A6BB9-1536x976.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cheung brothers at work in the kitchen at their Bernal Heights restaurant. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Go Duck Yourself)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For now, the Cheung brothers are retiring the Hing Lung name — in part to mark a new beginning, and also because there are so many other Chinese businesses called “Hing Lung” (meaning “prosperous”) in the Bay Area. But the new restaurant will be an homage to the original Hing Lung in many ways, including the (newly restored) original signage and a display of old photos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cheungs also haven’t ruled out the possibility of opening a new shop in Chinatown at some point in the future. If they do? They might just have to roll out the Hing Lung name once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Quack House is located at 927 Post St. in San Francisco. The owners hope to open sometime in October 2025. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Techie \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/cupertino\">Cupertino\u003c/a> doesn’t \u003ci>usually\u003c/i> register in the San Francisco- and Oakland-centric discussions of top Bay Area food cities — unless, of course, you’re a hardcore Asian food connoisseur. In that case, you probably already know that Cupertino’s suburban strip malls are home to some of the Bay Area’s finest noodle shops, jook joints and hot pot emporiums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13897830,arts_13957666']If that’s your comfort food sweet spot, you may want to check out Cupertino’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.cupertino.gov/Your-City/Divisions/Economic-Development/Restaurant-Week\">first ever restaurant week\u003c/a>, which the city is hosting to celebrate its 70th anniversary. The weeklong extravaganza of discounted meal deals from more than 20 participating restaurants will run Oct. 6–12.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cupertino is the beating heart of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">South Bay’s vibrant Taiwanese food scene\u003c/a>, so it’s no surprise that the cuisine is well represented in this promotion. Duan’s Kitchen, one of the area’s better beef noodle soup shops, is offering free items for customers who spend at least $25 (fried fishcake) or $50 (one of the better Taiwanese-style pork chops around). And Chicha San Chen, probably the trendiest among the city’s roughly five bajillion \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">boba shops\u003c/a>, will host free Lishan oolong tea tastings for customers who \u003ca href=\"https://chichasanchennorcal.com/reservation/ola/services/lishan-oolong-tea-tasting\">sign up in advance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957736\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957736\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks on a park bench.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cupertino’s Chicha San Chen is the current title holder for buzziest boba shop in the Bay. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If hot pot is more your speed, the Cupertino branch of HaiDiLao — the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13970445/haidilao-hot-pot-fremont-late-night\">glitzy hot pot mega-chain\u003c/a> — and individual mini-pot specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.homeeat.com/cupertino\">Home Eat\u003c/a> will both offer discounted meals this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bargain hunters craving something other than East Asian cuisine will have plenty of options too — say, Aqui Cal-Mex’s $3 appetizer sampler or the 25% discount on all of the Indian pizzas at Curry Pizza House.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>See the Cupertino Restaurant Week \u003ca href=\"https://www.cupertino.gov/Your-City/Divisions/Economic-Development/Restaurant-Week\">promotion page\u003c/a> for a complete list of participating restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Techie \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/cupertino\">Cupertino\u003c/a> doesn’t \u003ci>usually\u003c/i> register in the San Francisco- and Oakland-centric discussions of top Bay Area food cities — unless, of course, you’re a hardcore Asian food connoisseur. In that case, you probably already know that Cupertino’s suburban strip malls are home to some of the Bay Area’s finest noodle shops, jook joints and hot pot emporiums.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>If that’s your comfort food sweet spot, you may want to check out Cupertino’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.cupertino.gov/Your-City/Divisions/Economic-Development/Restaurant-Week\">first ever restaurant week\u003c/a>, which the city is hosting to celebrate its 70th anniversary. The weeklong extravaganza of discounted meal deals from more than 20 participating restaurants will run Oct. 6–12.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cupertino is the beating heart of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">South Bay’s vibrant Taiwanese food scene\u003c/a>, so it’s no surprise that the cuisine is well represented in this promotion. Duan’s Kitchen, one of the area’s better beef noodle soup shops, is offering free items for customers who spend at least $25 (fried fishcake) or $50 (one of the better Taiwanese-style pork chops around). And Chicha San Chen, probably the trendiest among the city’s roughly five bajillion \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13957666/best-boba-shops-bay-area-berkeley-cupertino-sf\">boba shops\u003c/a>, will host free Lishan oolong tea tastings for customers who \u003ca href=\"https://chichasanchennorcal.com/reservation/ola/services/lishan-oolong-tea-tasting\">sign up in advance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13957736\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13957736\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg\" alt=\"Two boba drinks on a park bench.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/05/chicha-san-chen_crop-1536x864.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cupertino’s Chicha San Chen is the current title holder for buzziest boba shop in the Bay. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If hot pot is more your speed, the Cupertino branch of HaiDiLao — the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13970445/haidilao-hot-pot-fremont-late-night\">glitzy hot pot mega-chain\u003c/a> — and individual mini-pot specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.homeeat.com/cupertino\">Home Eat\u003c/a> will both offer discounted meals this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bargain hunters craving something other than East Asian cuisine will have plenty of options too — say, Aqui Cal-Mex’s $3 appetizer sampler or the 25% discount on all of the Indian pizzas at Curry Pizza House.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980220\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980220\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devour\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the last two years, San Bruno’s Z-One Kitchen has added ‘Texas’-style barbecue to its menu of Shaanxi drinking food. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we pulled into a cramped plaza in San Bruno, the bilingual sign above a modest-looking Chinese restaurant promised an ultra-rare, perhaps never-before-heard-of combination: “岐山肉夹馍 & Texas BBQ.” In other words, Xi’an-style rou jia mo (aka “Chinese hamburgers”) served alongside heaping stacks of Texas ’cue. What?!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the “Texas” part of the formula at Z-One Kitchen, as the restaurant is called, really stretches the limits of creative marketing. But that didn’t stop us from having an intensely meaty, rollicking good time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We arrived at around 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, our curiosity piqued by online reports of this unusual fusion cuisine. The place closes up shop at 10:30 — decently late, even if it isn’t on the extreme end of the late-night dining spectrum. (Curiously, it doesn’t appear to have any connection to the similarly named A-One Kitchen — another \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951914/dungeness-crab-garlic-noodles-san-bruno-late-night\">Midnight Diners’ favorite\u003c/a> — just a mile up the road.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in terms of rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes, Z-One has the part down to a tee, starting with the crowded parking lot, where a suped-up Volkswagen Beetle was gunning its engine. The dining room — a clutter of mismatched furniture and empty Tsingtao beer bottles — was loud, and so busy that we had to share a six-top booth with another party. The workers were all big, burly Chinese guys with Northern accents. After getting vague, slightly brusque responses to our questions about the menu, I finally interjected in Mandarin, prompting our server to cry out (also in Mandarin), “If you speak Chinese, why didn’t you just say so to begin with!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The overall effect was like we’d stumbled onto the kind of roadside food stand you might find somewhere in rural China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980221\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980221\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of a Chinese restaurant lit up at night. The sign above advertises 'Texas BBQ.'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though it’s only open until 10:30 p.m., the restaurant has its rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes down to a tee. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the restaurant’s signage and branding suggest, the menu is divided into two halves: one side has all the “Texas barbecue”; the other side is a mishmash of Chinese drinking food, most of it specific to Shaanxi province. For the barbecue, there’s a $35 all-you-can-eat option (!), or you can order a plate that comes with your choice of meat and two dishes for as little as $16 — not unlike the meat-and-two format you’d find at a classic barbecue joint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only difference? The spices, the seasoning, the flavor profile and probably the entirety of the cooking process. None of the meats we tried had seen the inside of a smoker. Instead, they appeared to have been braised in some soy sauce–based concoction, then finished on the grill. They tasted not Texan (you should just eliminate that expectation entirely) but rather wholly Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which isn’t to say this take on barbecue wasn’t tasty in its own right. The flavor reminded me of Chinese beef jerky more than anything else — savory with a whisper of honeyed sweetness. We especially loved the beef spare ribs, which were luscious and slightly sticky, with tender meat that pulled right off the bone. We also ordered slippery, gelatinous pigs’ feet and, our least favorite, pork ribs that came out a bit too dry. Next time we might just get three orders of beef ribs. You can also choose from an assortment of cumin-dusted meat skewers, similar to what you’ll find at other \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951382/chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay\">Chinese barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> around the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13979460,arts_13978355,arts_13976695']In truth, the sides are probably the most fusion-y part of Z-One’s menu, allowing you to pair the meats with, say, potato salad (creamy and surprisingly addicting) and a satisfyingly greasy, soy sauce–drenched version of egg fried rice. We loved them both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, when Z-One first opened in 2020, it was a straightforward Shaanxi restaurant, specializing in the northwestern Chinese regional cuisine that gained some mainstream prominence in the U.S. after \u003ca href=\"https://ny.eater.com/2018/6/8/17442082/xian-famous-foods-jason-wang-anthony-bourdain\">the rise of Xi’an Famous Foods\u003c/a>, in New York, in the late aughts. So while the barbecue is worth trying, Z-One’s real sweet spot is its Shaanxi food, especially those so-called “Chinese hamburgers.” These, too, aren’t a fusion thing; rou jia mo has a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger\">2,200-year history in China\u003c/a>. The burger comparison comes from the well-seasoned meat stuffed inside a crisp flatbread — more akin to a paratha or an extra-thin English muffin than a burger bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Z-One’s classic pork rou jia mo came crammed full of saucy, finely shredded meat. It was extraordinarily juicy and well-seasoned, with an occasional jolt of fresh chili heat. I liked the version stuffed with grilled cumin lamb and sliced onions even better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a warm summer night, the sandwiches pair perfectly with an order of liangpi — wide, crinkly cold noodles tossed in a spicy, tangy sesame sauce. Even better: Z-One serves one of the better versions of fried stinky tofu I’ve found in the Bay Area. The tofu cubes were expertly fried, super-crisp without getting dried out, served in a pool of deliciously garlicky chili sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything Z-One serves goes exceptionally well with cold beer, so it came as no surprise that guys at the table next to us were three or four Tsingtaos in. They kept calling out to the owner (“Lao ban! Lao ban!”), teasing him half-nonsensically. We were feeling a little bit giddy too by the end of the night, even though we hadn’t been drinking. Instead, we left with full bellies — the smell of cumin and garlic heavy on our breath, with two big boxes of leftovers to tote home — feeling like we’d been taken on an unexpected journey. Not to Texas, certainly. But somewhere we hadn’t been before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Z-One Kitchen is open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–10:30 p.m., at 130 El Camino Real Ste. C in San Bruno.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980220\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980220\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devour\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-1-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the last two years, San Bruno’s Z-One Kitchen has added ‘Texas’-style barbecue to its menu of Shaanxi drinking food. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we pulled into a cramped plaza in San Bruno, the bilingual sign above a modest-looking Chinese restaurant promised an ultra-rare, perhaps never-before-heard-of combination: “岐山肉夹馍 & Texas BBQ.” In other words, Xi’an-style rou jia mo (aka “Chinese hamburgers”) served alongside heaping stacks of Texas ’cue. What?!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the “Texas” part of the formula at Z-One Kitchen, as the restaurant is called, really stretches the limits of creative marketing. But that didn’t stop us from having an intensely meaty, rollicking good time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We arrived at around 9 o’clock on a recent Friday night, our curiosity piqued by online reports of this unusual fusion cuisine. The place closes up shop at 10:30 — decently late, even if it isn’t on the extreme end of the late-night dining spectrum. (Curiously, it doesn’t appear to have any connection to the similarly named A-One Kitchen — another \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951914/dungeness-crab-garlic-noodles-san-bruno-late-night\">Midnight Diners’ favorite\u003c/a> — just a mile up the road.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But in terms of rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes, Z-One has the part down to a tee, starting with the crowded parking lot, where a suped-up Volkswagen Beetle was gunning its engine. The dining room — a clutter of mismatched furniture and empty Tsingtao beer bottles — was loud, and so busy that we had to share a six-top booth with another party. The workers were all big, burly Chinese guys with Northern accents. After getting vague, slightly brusque responses to our questions about the menu, I finally interjected in Mandarin, prompting our server to cry out (also in Mandarin), “If you speak Chinese, why didn’t you just say so to begin with!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The overall effect was like we’d stumbled onto the kind of roadside food stand you might find somewhere in rural China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13980221\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13980221\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of a Chinese restaurant lit up at night. The sign above advertises 'Texas BBQ.'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/08/Untitled_Artwork-2-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though it’s only open until 10:30 p.m., the restaurant has its rowdy, slightly chaotic late-night vibes down to a tee. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the restaurant’s signage and branding suggest, the menu is divided into two halves: one side has all the “Texas barbecue”; the other side is a mishmash of Chinese drinking food, most of it specific to Shaanxi province. For the barbecue, there’s a $35 all-you-can-eat option (!), or you can order a plate that comes with your choice of meat and two dishes for as little as $16 — not unlike the meat-and-two format you’d find at a classic barbecue joint.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only difference? The spices, the seasoning, the flavor profile and probably the entirety of the cooking process. None of the meats we tried had seen the inside of a smoker. Instead, they appeared to have been braised in some soy sauce–based concoction, then finished on the grill. They tasted not Texan (you should just eliminate that expectation entirely) but rather wholly Chinese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which isn’t to say this take on barbecue wasn’t tasty in its own right. The flavor reminded me of Chinese beef jerky more than anything else — savory with a whisper of honeyed sweetness. We especially loved the beef spare ribs, which were luscious and slightly sticky, with tender meat that pulled right off the bone. We also ordered slippery, gelatinous pigs’ feet and, our least favorite, pork ribs that came out a bit too dry. Next time we might just get three orders of beef ribs. You can also choose from an assortment of cumin-dusted meat skewers, similar to what you’ll find at other \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13951382/chinese-skewers-are-the-last-bastion-of-late-night-dining-in-the-bay\">Chinese barbecue restaurants\u003c/a> around the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In truth, the sides are probably the most fusion-y part of Z-One’s menu, allowing you to pair the meats with, say, potato salad (creamy and surprisingly addicting) and a satisfyingly greasy, soy sauce–drenched version of egg fried rice. We loved them both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, when Z-One first opened in 2020, it was a straightforward Shaanxi restaurant, specializing in the northwestern Chinese regional cuisine that gained some mainstream prominence in the U.S. after \u003ca href=\"https://ny.eater.com/2018/6/8/17442082/xian-famous-foods-jason-wang-anthony-bourdain\">the rise of Xi’an Famous Foods\u003c/a>, in New York, in the late aughts. So while the barbecue is worth trying, Z-One’s real sweet spot is its Shaanxi food, especially those so-called “Chinese hamburgers.” These, too, aren’t a fusion thing; rou jia mo has a \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger\">2,200-year history in China\u003c/a>. The burger comparison comes from the well-seasoned meat stuffed inside a crisp flatbread — more akin to a paratha or an extra-thin English muffin than a burger bun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Z-One’s classic pork rou jia mo came crammed full of saucy, finely shredded meat. It was extraordinarily juicy and well-seasoned, with an occasional jolt of fresh chili heat. I liked the version stuffed with grilled cumin lamb and sliced onions even better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a warm summer night, the sandwiches pair perfectly with an order of liangpi — wide, crinkly cold noodles tossed in a spicy, tangy sesame sauce. Even better: Z-One serves one of the better versions of fried stinky tofu I’ve found in the Bay Area. The tofu cubes were expertly fried, super-crisp without getting dried out, served in a pool of deliciously garlicky chili sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything Z-One serves goes exceptionally well with cold beer, so it came as no surprise that guys at the table next to us were three or four Tsingtaos in. They kept calling out to the owner (“Lao ban! Lao ban!”), teasing him half-nonsensically. We were feeling a little bit giddy too by the end of the night, even though we hadn’t been drinking. Instead, we left with full bellies — the smell of cumin and garlic heavy on our breath, with two big boxes of leftovers to tote home — feeling like we’d been taken on an unexpected journey. Not to Texas, certainly. But somewhere we hadn’t been before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Z-One Kitchen is open Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m.–2 p.m. and 5–10:30 p.m., at 130 El Camino Real Ste. C in San Bruno.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "four-kings-sf-chinatown-late-night-cantonese-hong-kong-squab",
"title": "This Buzzy Late-Night Restaurant in Chinatown Lives Up to All the Hype",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13976699\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13976699\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a table full of Cantonese dishes, including roast squab, fried soft-shell crabs, and a pork chop rice bowl.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the excitement at Four Kings comes from covering the table with an abundance of dishes. The new-school Cantonese restaurant is open until 11 p.m. on the weekends in SF Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buzziest, most popular restaurant in San Francisco today sits in the heart of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a>, in a cheerful alleyway festooned with red lanterns, directly downstairs from a Kumon (as the restaurant’s young, first-gen Cantonese proprietors are fond of \u003ca href=\"https://www.itsfourkings.com/about\">pointing out\u003c/a>). In that way, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fourkings__/?hl=en\">Four Kings\u003c/a> feels a little bit like some metaphor for millennial Asian America, or maybe just the setting for a novel I’d like to read — one whose plot hinges on the re-creation of some particularly decadent and nostalgic version of claypot rice or Hong Kong pepper steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, we had come to this bustling Hong Kong–inspired diner late on a Friday night because we’d heard it stays open, and fully packed, until 11 p.m. on weekends — and because we finally wanted to see for ourselves if the place lived up to all the hype.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than a year after the restaurant’s feverishly anticipated debut, Four Kings \u003ci>still \u003c/i>gets booked up weeks in advance. Luckily for night owls, 9:30 p.m. is the most likely time you might be able to land a last-minute reservation. That’s also the best time to just show up and get in line, as we did, hoping to snag one of the tables they save for walk-ins. (We only had to wait about half an hour.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even apart from the food, Four Kings comes advertised as a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/four-kings-cantonese-chinatown-19431105.php\">rollicking good time\u003c/a>, and the vibes are indeed excellent from the moment you walk in: Posters of ’80s and ’90s Cantopop idols decorate the walls, and their songs provide a boisterous, deeply nostalgic \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/playlist/7m5GmSTmYNqJ0VpZFyPG6A?si=c8282f11eef64212&nd=1&dlsi=d4a6f3ea1bdf4a88\">soundtrack\u003c/a> for your meal — lots of moody, sentimental rock ballads with sick guitar riffs. The counter is lined with Polaroids, lucky cat dolls and shochu bottles, and everyone is talking loudly, waving around their chopsticks, throwing back Tsingtao lagers and almond-milk highballs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we loved about the place, even before we’d taken a bite of the food, was how casual and low-key it was compared to other similarly trendy, acclaimed Bay Area restaurants. The one-page menu is peppered with little cartoon drawings and doesn’t feel the need to name-check any farm or fine-dining technique (despite the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">chefs’ fancy pedigrees\u003c/a>). And while Four Kings isn’t an inexpensive restaurant, the kitchen’s bells and whistles don’t call attention to themselves, so even the most exciting dishes just feel like really, really good versions of classic Cantonese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13976700\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13976700\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1.jpg\" alt='Illustration: The exterior of a restaurant in Chinatown. The sign about says \"Kumon.\" And there are red lanterns strung up overhead.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is downstairs from a Kumon. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The chefs \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">have said\u003c/a> they designed the menu to consist mostly shareable small plates, not much bigger than a standard dim sum, because of the narrowness of their dining room. Budget-minded diners might complain about the price-to-portion-size ratio, but if you order prudently, you can eat really well for about $50 a person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said: We didn’t order prudently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best and worst thing about Four Kings is that there are so many amazing-sounding dishes, on both the regular menu and the handwritten specials board, that you really have to restrain yourself from ordering way too much food. (We could have assembled a whole feast out of dishes we lusted after but weren’t able to make room for this time: mapo spaghetti and Singaporean chili crab, clams with black bean sauce and whole fried petrale sole, and and and…)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The net effect was that we wound up filling our table with an abundance of little and not-so-little dishes, one after another. First the complimentary peanuts (roasted with bits of seaweed) and garlicky smacked cucumbers. Then, a sinus-clearing salad of hot mustard jellyfish, cut thick so they resembled udon noodles, but with a pleasing, cartilaginous crunch. Chili crisp pig’s head, cut into thin, fat-speckled rounds and topped with chrysanthemum greens. One perfect butter-seared scallop served on the half-shell over a nest of umami-drenched vermicelli.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13975908,arts_13967564,arts_13962759']If Four Kings has a signature dish, it’s probably the fried squab (i.e., young pigeon), which comes cut into succulent quarters, claws still attached, tiny head staring back at you on the plate. The bird’s bronzed, glistening skin was immaculately crisp, giving away to a burst of soft fat when we bit in. The pink meat was rich and earthy, like duck with an extra bit of oomph. We tore the squab apart with our hands, squeezing lemon over top and dipping each morsel into a dish of tongue-tingling Sichuan-pepper-salt. If you’re bold and willing to work at it a little, even the head makes for good eating — the bits of crispy skin and the sweet, creamy brain in the center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The prospect of 10 p.m. squab alone makes Four Kings an elite late-night dining destination, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t note that it wasn’t even our favorite dish of the night. That title goes to the “typhoon shelter” soft-shell crab, one of the daily specials. Popularized by a genre of floating restaurant that used to hold court in Hong Kong’s typhoon-safe protective harbors, the “typhoon shelter” style refers to seafood that’s batter-fried and topped with a ton of crispy fried garlic and, in this particular version, fried basil. To make the dish even more outlandishly luxurious, Four Kings also places the crunchy crustaceans on top of a layer of aioli — another rich counterpoint to the tender, sweet flesh inside the shell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there was so much more. A hefty fried pork chop rice bowl with sweet onions and velvety tomato-egg gravy. Water spinach electried with the pungent jolt of fermented shrimp paste. For dessert, mango pudding with tangy strawberry sorbet, served in a pool of liquified almond tofu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ate and we ate until we couldn’t possibly take another bite, and then we packed up our leftovers, leaning back ruefully, our hands on our bellies. That’s the kind of energy that Four Kings inspires: At almost every table, people were hunched over four or five different plates at once, crossing chopsticks, double-dipping, letting all those big flavors mingle together. Who’s going to stop you if you decide to dip a morsel of fried squab in the pig head chili oil? What’s to keep you from drizzling some of the fermented shrimp sauce from the ong choy over your pork chop rice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We didn’t regret any of it. And walking back out into the crisp Chinatown night, we were already dreaming about all those dishes we couldn’t wait to try next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fourkings__/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Four Kings\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Thursday through Saturday 6–11 p.m. and Sunday to Monday 6–10:30 p.m. at 710 Commercial St. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Four Kings in SF Chinatown Lives Up to the Hype | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13976699\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13976699\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men devouring a table full of Cantonese dishes, including roast squab, fried soft-shell crabs, and a pork chop rice bowl.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the excitement at Four Kings comes from covering the table with an abundance of dishes. The new-school Cantonese restaurant is open until 11 p.m. on the weekends in SF Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buzziest, most popular restaurant in San Francisco today sits in the heart of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a>, in a cheerful alleyway festooned with red lanterns, directly downstairs from a Kumon (as the restaurant’s young, first-gen Cantonese proprietors are fond of \u003ca href=\"https://www.itsfourkings.com/about\">pointing out\u003c/a>). In that way, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fourkings__/?hl=en\">Four Kings\u003c/a> feels a little bit like some metaphor for millennial Asian America, or maybe just the setting for a novel I’d like to read — one whose plot hinges on the re-creation of some particularly decadent and nostalgic version of claypot rice or Hong Kong pepper steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, we had come to this bustling Hong Kong–inspired diner late on a Friday night because we’d heard it stays open, and fully packed, until 11 p.m. on weekends — and because we finally wanted to see for ourselves if the place lived up to all the hype.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than a year after the restaurant’s feverishly anticipated debut, Four Kings \u003ci>still \u003c/i>gets booked up weeks in advance. Luckily for night owls, 9:30 p.m. is the most likely time you might be able to land a last-minute reservation. That’s also the best time to just show up and get in line, as we did, hoping to snag one of the tables they save for walk-ins. (We only had to wait about half an hour.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even apart from the food, Four Kings comes advertised as a \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/four-kings-cantonese-chinatown-19431105.php\">rollicking good time\u003c/a>, and the vibes are indeed excellent from the moment you walk in: Posters of ’80s and ’90s Cantopop idols decorate the walls, and their songs provide a boisterous, deeply nostalgic \u003ca href=\"https://open.spotify.com/playlist/7m5GmSTmYNqJ0VpZFyPG6A?si=c8282f11eef64212&nd=1&dlsi=d4a6f3ea1bdf4a88\">soundtrack\u003c/a> for your meal — lots of moody, sentimental rock ballads with sick guitar riffs. The counter is lined with Polaroids, lucky cat dolls and shochu bottles, and everyone is talking loudly, waving around their chopsticks, throwing back Tsingtao lagers and almond-milk highballs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we loved about the place, even before we’d taken a bite of the food, was how casual and low-key it was compared to other similarly trendy, acclaimed Bay Area restaurants. The one-page menu is peppered with little cartoon drawings and doesn’t feel the need to name-check any farm or fine-dining technique (despite the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">chefs’ fancy pedigrees\u003c/a>). And while Four Kings isn’t an inexpensive restaurant, the kitchen’s bells and whistles don’t call attention to themselves, so even the most exciting dishes just feel like really, really good versions of classic Cantonese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13976700\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13976700\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1.jpg\" alt='Illustration: The exterior of a restaurant in Chinatown. The sign about says \"Kumon.\" And there are red lanterns strung up overhead.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/05/4-kings1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is downstairs from a Kumon. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The chefs \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">have said\u003c/a> they designed the menu to consist mostly shareable small plates, not much bigger than a standard dim sum, because of the narrowness of their dining room. Budget-minded diners might complain about the price-to-portion-size ratio, but if you order prudently, you can eat really well for about $50 a person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said: We didn’t order prudently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best and worst thing about Four Kings is that there are so many amazing-sounding dishes, on both the regular menu and the handwritten specials board, that you really have to restrain yourself from ordering way too much food. (We could have assembled a whole feast out of dishes we lusted after but weren’t able to make room for this time: mapo spaghetti and Singaporean chili crab, clams with black bean sauce and whole fried petrale sole, and and and…)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The net effect was that we wound up filling our table with an abundance of little and not-so-little dishes, one after another. First the complimentary peanuts (roasted with bits of seaweed) and garlicky smacked cucumbers. Then, a sinus-clearing salad of hot mustard jellyfish, cut thick so they resembled udon noodles, but with a pleasing, cartilaginous crunch. Chili crisp pig’s head, cut into thin, fat-speckled rounds and topped with chrysanthemum greens. One perfect butter-seared scallop served on the half-shell over a nest of umami-drenched vermicelli.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>If Four Kings has a signature dish, it’s probably the fried squab (i.e., young pigeon), which comes cut into succulent quarters, claws still attached, tiny head staring back at you on the plate. The bird’s bronzed, glistening skin was immaculately crisp, giving away to a burst of soft fat when we bit in. The pink meat was rich and earthy, like duck with an extra bit of oomph. We tore the squab apart with our hands, squeezing lemon over top and dipping each morsel into a dish of tongue-tingling Sichuan-pepper-salt. If you’re bold and willing to work at it a little, even the head makes for good eating — the bits of crispy skin and the sweet, creamy brain in the center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The prospect of 10 p.m. squab alone makes Four Kings an elite late-night dining destination, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t note that it wasn’t even our favorite dish of the night. That title goes to the “typhoon shelter” soft-shell crab, one of the daily specials. Popularized by a genre of floating restaurant that used to hold court in Hong Kong’s typhoon-safe protective harbors, the “typhoon shelter” style refers to seafood that’s batter-fried and topped with a ton of crispy fried garlic and, in this particular version, fried basil. To make the dish even more outlandishly luxurious, Four Kings also places the crunchy crustaceans on top of a layer of aioli — another rich counterpoint to the tender, sweet flesh inside the shell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there was so much more. A hefty fried pork chop rice bowl with sweet onions and velvety tomato-egg gravy. Water spinach electried with the pungent jolt of fermented shrimp paste. For dessert, mango pudding with tangy strawberry sorbet, served in a pool of liquified almond tofu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ate and we ate until we couldn’t possibly take another bite, and then we packed up our leftovers, leaning back ruefully, our hands on our bellies. That’s the kind of energy that Four Kings inspires: At almost every table, people were hunched over four or five different plates at once, crossing chopsticks, double-dipping, letting all those big flavors mingle together. Who’s going to stop you if you decide to dip a morsel of fried squab in the pig head chili oil? What’s to keep you from drizzling some of the fermented shrimp sauce from the ong choy over your pork chop rice?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We didn’t regret any of it. And walking back out into the crisp Chinatown night, we were already dreaming about all those dishes we couldn’t wait to try next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/fourkings__/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Four Kings\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Thursday through Saturday 6–11 p.m. and Sunday to Monday 6–10:30 p.m. at 710 Commercial St. in San Francisco. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"headTitle": "This Classic Oakland Chinatown Restaurant Hits the Spot at 3 a.m. | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974388\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974388\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal.jpg\" alt=\"Two men devour a table full of Cantonese dishes, including chow mein and fried pork chops.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">New Gold Medal has been a local favorite for homey Cantonese food in Oakland Chinatown since 2007 \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in the days when everyone would complain about how nothing in Oakland was open past midnight (which is to say, literally the entire time I lived in Oakland), there was always New Gold Medal — the one no-frills Cantonese spot in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a> where you could get a steaming-hot plate of beef chow fun or a bowl of wonton soup until 3 o’clock in the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How many of us have rolled in through those doors, slightly hammered, with a crew seven or eight deep after the bars and clubs let out, or solo after getting off a late work shift, or halfway through an all-night study session? If you live in the East Bay and have ever gotten extremely, extremely hungry in the middle of the night these past two decades, it’s even odds that New Gold Medal has saved your life at least once or twice. (Going even further back, \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-hungry-insomniac-1/\">Sun Hong Kong\u003c/a> held court at the same 8th Street location, with a similar menu and late-night hours, starting in the ’80s.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The good news is that New Gold Medal is still around, \u003ci>still \u003c/i>open until 3 a.m. It still sits in the same classic Chinatown building with the tall, narrow windows and glazed tile eaves — still has the same picturesque tableau of glistening, well-bronzed ducks hanging in the window above a fat stack of fried dough sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most importantly? The food is just as good as it ever was and still hits perfectly when eaten at or around midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Admittedly, \u003ci>some \u003c/i>things have changed. For one, at least during our visit at around 11 o’clock on a weeknight, the crowd was a lot more subdued than I remember — less party time and more tired gig workers enjoying a late dinner before going home to crash for the night. If anything, this made for even more satisfying people-watching: There was an older Cantonese family — a lady with a walker hunched over a bowl of soup, a severe-looking gentleman with a black sport coat and tidy, slicked-back hair. The whole group of them looked like they’d be stone-cold killers at the mahjong table. In the corner, a middle-aged South Asian guy had ordered two dishes and a tureen of soup all for himself and was absolutely going to town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another change: I regret to inform you that the days of the $6.50 rice plate and $16 whole roast duck — staples of my 2010s initiation as an NGM devotee — are long gone. The prices have gone up here just like they have everywhere in the Bay, so these days most items on the menu will run you $15 to $20. But the portions are still as generous as they ever were, so the upshot is that you can drop about $60 on three dishes and a big tub of rice, eat until you’re stuffed, and go home happy and full, with plenty of leftovers for lunch the next day. Not exactly something to complain about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974391\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974391\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2.jpg\" alt='Exterior facade of a Chinese restaurant at night. The sign reads, \"New Gold Medal.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is one of just a handful of Chinatown spots that’s open late — until 3 a.m. most nights. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>New Gold Medal isn’t the kind of destination restaurant that has some rare specialty dish it’s famous for. But if you like homey Cantonese food, its vast menu covers all of the standards — and does almost all of them exceptionally well. It might be best known for its Cantonese-style barbecue, and on a good day, the crispy-skinned roast pork is as tasty as any version you can find in the East Bay. It can be hit or miss, though — and if you’re coming late at night, chances are, the only cuts left in the case will be sad and dry. We went instead with the duck, which is reliably juicy and succulent at all hours, roasted slowly until the fat renders down to a particularly luscious texture. I have to stop myself from eating half a bird all by myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13973430,arts_13972834,arts_13956218']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>On this visit, we also devoured a plate of the Gold Medal chow mein, a crispy nest of fried noodles topped with a slurry of assorted meats, seafood and enough bok choy and shiitake mushrooms to make you feel like you got your meal’s worth of veggies. The salt-and-pepper fried pork chops came out tremendously hot and crispy, sprinkled with sliced garlic and jalapeños, and cut into hefty pieces that were super satisfying to gnaw off the bone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it almost doesn’t matter what you order. Every regular has their own favorites, running the gamut from war wonton soup to the assortment of clay pot rice dishes and stir-fried noodles. My own personal favorite is the stir-fried shrimp and eggs, a dish I’ve ordered at at least a dozen other restaurants in the Bay. But the scallion-flecked eggs never come out as light and fluffy as they do here — slippery enough to make the dish all the more comforting when you scoop it up over a big bowl of white rice. For me, no trip to New Gold Medal is complete without this dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, a couple of middle-aged ladies who’ve been at the restaurant forever run the place with efficiency and good humor, cracking jokes with regulars — equally adept, it seems, in English, Cantonese and Mandarin, and probably several other dialects I’m not aware of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, all we hear about is how the Bay Area’s Chinatowns are dying, and how Oakland Chinatown, in particular, was killed off by the COVID era and its aftermath. All the more reason to celebrate the survivors, then — to give thanks that even now, you can stumble into New Gold Medal at 3 a.m. and eat probably the best meal you’ll eat all week.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>New Gold Medal is open 9 a.m.–3 a.m. daily except for Tuesdays, when it closes at midnight. The restaurant is located at 389 8th St. in Oakland.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974388\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974388\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal.jpg\" alt=\"Two men devour a table full of Cantonese dishes, including chow mein and fried pork chops.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">New Gold Medal has been a local favorite for homey Cantonese food in Oakland Chinatown since 2007 \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in the days when everyone would complain about how nothing in Oakland was open past midnight (which is to say, literally the entire time I lived in Oakland), there was always New Gold Medal — the one no-frills Cantonese spot in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chinatown\">Chinatown\u003c/a> where you could get a steaming-hot plate of beef chow fun or a bowl of wonton soup until 3 o’clock in the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How many of us have rolled in through those doors, slightly hammered, with a crew seven or eight deep after the bars and clubs let out, or solo after getting off a late work shift, or halfway through an all-night study session? If you live in the East Bay and have ever gotten extremely, extremely hungry in the middle of the night these past two decades, it’s even odds that New Gold Medal has saved your life at least once or twice. (Going even further back, \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/the-hungry-insomniac-1/\">Sun Hong Kong\u003c/a> held court at the same 8th Street location, with a similar menu and late-night hours, starting in the ’80s.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The good news is that New Gold Medal is still around, \u003ci>still \u003c/i>open until 3 a.m. It still sits in the same classic Chinatown building with the tall, narrow windows and glazed tile eaves — still has the same picturesque tableau of glistening, well-bronzed ducks hanging in the window above a fat stack of fried dough sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most importantly? The food is just as good as it ever was and still hits perfectly when eaten at or around midnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Admittedly, \u003ci>some \u003c/i>things have changed. For one, at least during our visit at around 11 o’clock on a weeknight, the crowd was a lot more subdued than I remember — less party time and more tired gig workers enjoying a late dinner before going home to crash for the night. If anything, this made for even more satisfying people-watching: There was an older Cantonese family — a lady with a walker hunched over a bowl of soup, a severe-looking gentleman with a black sport coat and tidy, slicked-back hair. The whole group of them looked like they’d be stone-cold killers at the mahjong table. In the corner, a middle-aged South Asian guy had ordered two dishes and a tureen of soup all for himself and was absolutely going to town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another change: I regret to inform you that the days of the $6.50 rice plate and $16 whole roast duck — staples of my 2010s initiation as an NGM devotee — are long gone. The prices have gone up here just like they have everywhere in the Bay, so these days most items on the menu will run you $15 to $20. But the portions are still as generous as they ever were, so the upshot is that you can drop about $60 on three dishes and a big tub of rice, eat until you’re stuffed, and go home happy and full, with plenty of leftovers for lunch the next day. Not exactly something to complain about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13974391\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13974391\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2.jpg\" alt='Exterior facade of a Chinese restaurant at night. The sign reads, \"New Gold Medal.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/04/newgoldmedal2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is one of just a handful of Chinatown spots that’s open late — until 3 a.m. most nights. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>New Gold Medal isn’t the kind of destination restaurant that has some rare specialty dish it’s famous for. But if you like homey Cantonese food, its vast menu covers all of the standards — and does almost all of them exceptionally well. It might be best known for its Cantonese-style barbecue, and on a good day, the crispy-skinned roast pork is as tasty as any version you can find in the East Bay. It can be hit or miss, though — and if you’re coming late at night, chances are, the only cuts left in the case will be sad and dry. We went instead with the duck, which is reliably juicy and succulent at all hours, roasted slowly until the fat renders down to a particularly luscious texture. I have to stop myself from eating half a bird all by myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>On this visit, we also devoured a plate of the Gold Medal chow mein, a crispy nest of fried noodles topped with a slurry of assorted meats, seafood and enough bok choy and shiitake mushrooms to make you feel like you got your meal’s worth of veggies. The salt-and-pepper fried pork chops came out tremendously hot and crispy, sprinkled with sliced garlic and jalapeños, and cut into hefty pieces that were super satisfying to gnaw off the bone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it almost doesn’t matter what you order. Every regular has their own favorites, running the gamut from war wonton soup to the assortment of clay pot rice dishes and stir-fried noodles. My own personal favorite is the stir-fried shrimp and eggs, a dish I’ve ordered at at least a dozen other restaurants in the Bay. But the scallion-flecked eggs never come out as light and fluffy as they do here — slippery enough to make the dish all the more comforting when you scoop it up over a big bowl of white rice. For me, no trip to New Gold Medal is complete without this dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, a couple of middle-aged ladies who’ve been at the restaurant forever run the place with efficiency and good humor, cracking jokes with regulars — equally adept, it seems, in English, Cantonese and Mandarin, and probably several other dialects I’m not aware of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, all we hear about is how the Bay Area’s Chinatowns are dying, and how Oakland Chinatown, in particular, was killed off by the COVID era and its aftermath. All the more reason to celebrate the survivors, then — to give thanks that even now, you can stumble into New Gold Medal at 3 a.m. and eat probably the best meal you’ll eat all week.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>New Gold Medal is open 9 a.m.–3 a.m. daily except for Tuesdays, when it closes at midnight. The restaurant is located at 389 8th St. in Oakland.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "haidilao-hot-pot-fremont-late-night",
"title": "HaiDiLao Brings a Bit of Razzle Dazzle to Fremont’s Late-Night Hot Pot Scene",
"publishDate": 1737076268,
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"headTitle": "HaiDiLao Brings a Bit of Razzle Dazzle to Fremont’s Late-Night Hot Pot Scene | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13970444\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13970444\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men watch a noodle maker while eating hot pot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At HaiDiLao, dinner might come with a tableside ‘dancing noodle’ show. The high-end hot pot restaurant’s Fremont location is open until 2 a.m. every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up in my immigrant Chinese-Taiwanese household in the ’80s and ’90s, my family thought of hot pot as the humblest of home foods — perfect for cold, lazy days when you couldn’t be bothered to cook, but not really even a meal suitable for company, much less something you’d splurge on at a fancy restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We never could have imagined today’s landscape of pristine malatang bars and all-you-can-eat \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965215/all-you-can-eat-wagyu-beef-hot-pot-shabu-shabu-mikiya-santa-clara\">wagyu beef shabu shabu\u003c/a>. Who could have guessed that hot pot would become a trendy luxury food, with high-end mega-chains multiplying across East Asia and eventually landing here in the Bay? And in many neighborhoods, these epicenters of hot, bubbling broth might be the only restaurant in the general vicinity that’s open late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s how we ended up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/haidilao_us/?hl=en\">HaiDiLao\u003c/a> in a Fremont strip mall at 10 o’clock on a Friday night, sliding into an open booth inside a bright, expansive dining room packed mostly with young Asian Americans. The restaurant is open until 2 a.m. every night, and its late-night hours are especially appealing to the budget-minded: On weekends starting at 9:30 p.m. (and 8:30 on weekdays), there’s a 31% happy hour discount on all hot pot dishes — or, as it’s phrased in Chinese, “69% price.” (Nice.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’ve heard of HaiDiLao, that’s probably because it’s literally the largest, most successful hot pot chain in the world, with an estimated \u003ca href=\"https://www.forbes.com/sites/blakemorgan/2024/05/15/the-5-secrets-of-haidilaos-114b-dollar-customer-experience-success/\">$14 billion market cap\u003c/a> and more than 1,300 locations in China, its home base, alone. In Asia, the chain is ubiquitous enough that hot pot snobs consider it tacky, with some haters going so far as to call it the “\u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/Taipei/comments/189mw16/comment/kbsd3je/\">overpriced McDonald’s of hot pot restaurants\u003c/a>.” Here in the Bay Area, however, it’s still a relative novelty, with just one other location (in Cupertino) — and both the food and the experience are good enough to outshine most of the local competition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>HaiDiLao’s claim to fame is its focus on providing a more luxurious, pampering approach to the customer experience, which expresses itself in what felt to me like particularly Chinese ways. The overflow waiting area (basically a bar counter) has several Chinese checkers boards, that little magnetic fishing game that every Chinese kid played when they were little and even an electronic eyeglass cleaner. You also get a whole apron, not just a bib, to keep your clothes clean of splattering broth. And little R2-D2–sized robot trolleys bring your raw ingredients to the table because why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13970443\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13970443\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant. The sign reads "Haidilao Hot Pot," and there's a statue of a panda in a cape in front.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The global mega-chain currently has two Bay Area outposts, in Fremont and Cupertino. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even with the late-night discount, this is an expensive meal — easily upwards of $50 a person depending on your appetite and ordering discipline, which puts it in the same price tier as the fanciest all-you-can-eat joints. So it’s good that the food mostly stacks up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start with the soup base, which HaiDiLao offers in eight varieties, listed on the iPad menu from spiciest (the Chengdu-style beef tallow hot pot brimming with red chilies) to not spicy at all (say, the mushroom- or tomato-based broths). We opted for a split pot, with the medium-hot spicy pork bone broth and a more mild broth made with pork stomach and chicken. The former was flecked pieces of kimchi, for a bit of a Korean vibe, and had a good depth of the flavor. The latter — our favorite — had the subtle medicinal quality of a home-cooked broth and a slight gaminess from the slices of chewy, tender stomach. This is one you actually want to drink as a soup, especially on a cold night. (Pro tip: If at the end of the meal you tell the server, “I like your soup base” — in English or Mandarin — they’ll give you an extra bag of broth to bring home with your leftovers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were also impressed by the sheer variety of offerings beyond the typical plates of thinly sliced meat. The fresh seafood options are especially robust. We loved the thick, lush slices of marinated basa, which came pre-seasoned, deliciously, with a hint of numbing Sichuan peppercorn. One of the more unusual offerings were little cigars of shrimp paste wrapped in some kind of spongy fungus and crowned with a scattering of flying fish roe at the tip. Once they firmed up in the broth, they bore an unfortunate resemblance to half-flaccid penises — but uncommonly tasty ones, especially when dipped into the garlicky sesame paste dipping sauce that I’d concocted at the serve-yourself sauce station.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13969092,arts_13965215,arts_13952384']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>And even though HaiDiLao doesn’t boast the innately decadent all-you-can-eat model of a high-end buffet like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965215/all-you-can-eat-wagyu-beef-hot-pot-shabu-shabu-mikiya-santa-clara\">Mikiya\u003c/a>, it does have its own elements of razzle dazzle and charm that help make for a fun night out. Wagyu lovers can splurge on the “wagyu tree,” which, true to its name, is a big mound of ice upon which they’ve arranged a portion of extremely well-marbled Japanese beef so that it does resemble a pink, meaty Christmas tree. Is it Instagram and TikTok bait? Of course. Is the meat some of the most extraordinarily soft and tender I’ve had for hot pot? Also yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most memorably, for just $5, you can order a tableside “dancing noodle” show, inspired by the style of flashy hand-pulled noodle-making you’ll see in parts of northern China. In our case, it turned out to be a young Latino guy who pulled up to our table and asked if we had any song requests before queuing up Pitbull’s “DJ Got Us Falling in Love” on his phone. The performance that followed was akin to watching a pizza man at a rave, as he stretched a piece of dough longer and longer, spinning it around, over his head and behind his back, whipping the noodle toward us — just kidding! — and causing it to form quick ripples. (Afterward, he explained that he’d started at HaiDiLao as a busboy and basically taught himself how to pull noodles just by watching the previous Chinese noodle master, who didn’t speak any English. Immigrants! They get the job done.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so distracted by the song and dance of it all — a spectacle I never could have imagined as a young, naive hot pot eater — that we almost forgot to fish the finished noodles out of the broth. Even gone a bit soft, they were thoroughly, slurpably enjoyable.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>HaiDiLao Hot Pot’s Fremont location is open Mon. to Thu. 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. and Fri. to Sun. 11 a.m.–2 a.m. at 43349 Boscell Rd. The restaurant also has a location in Cupertino.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "HaiDiLao Brings Late-Night Hot Pot to Fremont | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13970444\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13970444\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Two men watch a noodle maker while eating hot pot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At HaiDiLao, dinner might come with a tableside ‘dancing noodle’ show. The high-end hot pot restaurant’s Fremont location is open until 2 a.m. every night. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up in my immigrant Chinese-Taiwanese household in the ’80s and ’90s, my family thought of hot pot as the humblest of home foods — perfect for cold, lazy days when you couldn’t be bothered to cook, but not really even a meal suitable for company, much less something you’d splurge on at a fancy restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We never could have imagined today’s landscape of pristine malatang bars and all-you-can-eat \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965215/all-you-can-eat-wagyu-beef-hot-pot-shabu-shabu-mikiya-santa-clara\">wagyu beef shabu shabu\u003c/a>. Who could have guessed that hot pot would become a trendy luxury food, with high-end mega-chains multiplying across East Asia and eventually landing here in the Bay? And in many neighborhoods, these epicenters of hot, bubbling broth might be the only restaurant in the general vicinity that’s open late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s how we ended up at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/haidilao_us/?hl=en\">HaiDiLao\u003c/a> in a Fremont strip mall at 10 o’clock on a Friday night, sliding into an open booth inside a bright, expansive dining room packed mostly with young Asian Americans. The restaurant is open until 2 a.m. every night, and its late-night hours are especially appealing to the budget-minded: On weekends starting at 9:30 p.m. (and 8:30 on weekdays), there’s a 31% happy hour discount on all hot pot dishes — or, as it’s phrased in Chinese, “69% price.” (Nice.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’ve heard of HaiDiLao, that’s probably because it’s literally the largest, most successful hot pot chain in the world, with an estimated \u003ca href=\"https://www.forbes.com/sites/blakemorgan/2024/05/15/the-5-secrets-of-haidilaos-114b-dollar-customer-experience-success/\">$14 billion market cap\u003c/a> and more than 1,300 locations in China, its home base, alone. In Asia, the chain is ubiquitous enough that hot pot snobs consider it tacky, with some haters going so far as to call it the “\u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/Taipei/comments/189mw16/comment/kbsd3je/\">overpriced McDonald’s of hot pot restaurants\u003c/a>.” Here in the Bay Area, however, it’s still a relative novelty, with just one other location (in Cupertino) — and both the food and the experience are good enough to outshine most of the local competition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>HaiDiLao’s claim to fame is its focus on providing a more luxurious, pampering approach to the customer experience, which expresses itself in what felt to me like particularly Chinese ways. The overflow waiting area (basically a bar counter) has several Chinese checkers boards, that little magnetic fishing game that every Chinese kid played when they were little and even an electronic eyeglass cleaner. You also get a whole apron, not just a bib, to keep your clothes clean of splattering broth. And little R2-D2–sized robot trolleys bring your raw ingredients to the table because why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13970443\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13970443\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant. The sign reads "Haidilao Hot Pot," and there's a statue of a panda in a cape in front.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/01/haililao-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The global mega-chain currently has two Bay Area outposts, in Fremont and Cupertino. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even with the late-night discount, this is an expensive meal — easily upwards of $50 a person depending on your appetite and ordering discipline, which puts it in the same price tier as the fanciest all-you-can-eat joints. So it’s good that the food mostly stacks up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Start with the soup base, which HaiDiLao offers in eight varieties, listed on the iPad menu from spiciest (the Chengdu-style beef tallow hot pot brimming with red chilies) to not spicy at all (say, the mushroom- or tomato-based broths). We opted for a split pot, with the medium-hot spicy pork bone broth and a more mild broth made with pork stomach and chicken. The former was flecked pieces of kimchi, for a bit of a Korean vibe, and had a good depth of the flavor. The latter — our favorite — had the subtle medicinal quality of a home-cooked broth and a slight gaminess from the slices of chewy, tender stomach. This is one you actually want to drink as a soup, especially on a cold night. (Pro tip: If at the end of the meal you tell the server, “I like your soup base” — in English or Mandarin — they’ll give you an extra bag of broth to bring home with your leftovers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were also impressed by the sheer variety of offerings beyond the typical plates of thinly sliced meat. The fresh seafood options are especially robust. We loved the thick, lush slices of marinated basa, which came pre-seasoned, deliciously, with a hint of numbing Sichuan peppercorn. One of the more unusual offerings were little cigars of shrimp paste wrapped in some kind of spongy fungus and crowned with a scattering of flying fish roe at the tip. Once they firmed up in the broth, they bore an unfortunate resemblance to half-flaccid penises — but uncommonly tasty ones, especially when dipped into the garlicky sesame paste dipping sauce that I’d concocted at the serve-yourself sauce station.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>And even though HaiDiLao doesn’t boast the innately decadent all-you-can-eat model of a high-end buffet like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13965215/all-you-can-eat-wagyu-beef-hot-pot-shabu-shabu-mikiya-santa-clara\">Mikiya\u003c/a>, it does have its own elements of razzle dazzle and charm that help make for a fun night out. Wagyu lovers can splurge on the “wagyu tree,” which, true to its name, is a big mound of ice upon which they’ve arranged a portion of extremely well-marbled Japanese beef so that it does resemble a pink, meaty Christmas tree. Is it Instagram and TikTok bait? Of course. Is the meat some of the most extraordinarily soft and tender I’ve had for hot pot? Also yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most memorably, for just $5, you can order a tableside “dancing noodle” show, inspired by the style of flashy hand-pulled noodle-making you’ll see in parts of northern China. In our case, it turned out to be a young Latino guy who pulled up to our table and asked if we had any song requests before queuing up Pitbull’s “DJ Got Us Falling in Love” on his phone. The performance that followed was akin to watching a pizza man at a rave, as he stretched a piece of dough longer and longer, spinning it around, over his head and behind his back, whipping the noodle toward us — just kidding! — and causing it to form quick ripples. (Afterward, he explained that he’d started at HaiDiLao as a busboy and basically taught himself how to pull noodles just by watching the previous Chinese noodle master, who didn’t speak any English. Immigrants! They get the job done.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so distracted by the song and dance of it all — a spectacle I never could have imagined as a young, naive hot pot eater — that we almost forgot to fish the finished noodles out of the broth. Even gone a bit soft, they were thoroughly, slurpably enjoyable.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>HaiDiLao Hot Pot’s Fremont location is open Mon. to Thu. 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. and Fri. to Sun. 11 a.m.–2 a.m. at 43349 Boscell Rd. The restaurant also has a location in Cupertino.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "karaoke-south-san-francisco-hong-kong-late-night-restaurant-noodles-e-plus",
"title": "In South San Francisco, Noodles and Karaoke Are the Perfect Late-Night Combo",
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"headTitle": "In South San Francisco, Noodles and Karaoke Are the Perfect Late-Night Combo | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968150\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968150\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Three middle-aged men singing their hearts out at karaoke while a woman placidly eats a plate of spaghetti.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At South San Francisco’s E Plus Karaoke and Cafe, the food and the vibes are both top-notch. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week’s guest artist is local dentist — and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/18439/happy-20th-birthday-wonderwall\">\u003ci>Oasis\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> superfan — Raynato Castro.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe isn’t exactly the world’s most inviting restaurant. Located on a sparse, warehouse-y block of South San Francisco, the dimly lit building is easy to miss if you aren’t actively looking for the “WE ARE OPEN” banner hanging high up on the wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Was\u003c/i> it open? And was it even a restaurant, really? When we pulled up at 9 o’clock on a Friday night, the front door was locked shut, and a slightly passive-aggressive signboard half-scolded us: “Sorry no dine-in, TO-GO only.” After a minute of uncertainty, a burly security guard with extensive face tattoos finally emerged and asked us, affably, if we’d made a reservation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had. In fact, we’d been planning this night for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason we’d come to this slightly sketchy-looking shoebox of a karaoke joint was because, like so many of our Asian brethren, we live for karaoke — and also because we’d heard rumors that, in addition to having sweet private rooms (a.k.a. the only style of karaoke I abide) and superior song selection, E Plus also serves surprisingly good Cantonese food. Specifically, the sign in the window promises 港式西餐 — a genre of East-West fusion cuisine characteristic of Hong Kong–style coffee shops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be clear, though, the emphasis is on the karaoke. You aren’t even allowed to eat inside if you haven’t reserved one of those private karaoke rooms ahead of time. But apart from the karaoke, the place is probably best known for being one of just a handful of late-night takeout options in the immediate vicinity of the San Francisco International Airport. Both the kitchen and the karaoke are open until 1:30 a.m. every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of which is to say, it didn’t necessarily \u003ci>seem\u003c/i> like there was any incentive for the E Plus kitchen to crank out much better than C plus food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968154\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968154\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg\" alt='Illustration: The exterior of E Plus Karaoke and Cafe on a dark night with a full moon. The banner on top of the building reads, \"WE ARE OPEN.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be deceived by the building’s somewhat uninviting exterior. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One pro tip: Everyone knows the key to a successful karaoke night is assembling the right crew. That’s especially true at E Plus, because the smallest size room will run you $58 an hour (with a two-hour minimum) even before you factor in food and drink — Lord knows, a pricey date night in this economy. But if you can cobble together at least a group of four, E Plus offers a $38 per person combo deal that’s a legitimate bargain: Each person picks a dish and a non-alcoholic drink, and two hours of karaoke time are included.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, our group of four put in our order and then promptly forgot about it in the excitement of scoping out the room we’d been assigned, with its big, shiny couches, moody neon backlighting, and top-notch sound system. Before we knew it, we were fully in our feelings: broing out to an especially lonesome rendition of Savage Garden’s “Truly Madly Deeply” and straining our voices to hit the high notes of the late, great Biz Markie’s “Just a Friend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quietly, a staff member brought in the food we’d ordered, crouching down so she wouldn’t block our view of the lyrics. And would you believe that every dish was a hit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-style beef chow fun is a litmus test for any self-respecting \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">Canto food spot\u003c/a>, and E Plus’s version is as solid a rendition as I’ve had recently: soft, pliable noodles and well-charred beef, all glistening with a wonderfully savory soy sauce sheen. We took one bite and knew we were in good hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another house special is the spicy salt-and-pepper fried chicken cartilage, and it’s a knockout — a generous, piping-hot portion of crispy popcorn chicken, essentially, with a little bit of extra texture for good measure. This is the ideal accompaniment to cold beer or sake (both available for purchase) — and exactly the kind of finger food that’s convenient when you want to pop something in your mouth during, say, the 27-second instrumental intro to “Boys of Summer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13967564,arts_13965215,arts_13961613']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The roast duck pancake, meanwhile, turns out to be a kind of hybrid between jianbing (a kind of northern Chinese street food crepe) and a Peking duck wrap. The eggy crepe is flecked with black sesame seeds, brushed with hoisin sauce, and then piled with slices of roast duck and rolled up like a burrito. I loved the bit of crispy duck skin you get in every bite, but you’ll want to devour this quickly, as soon as it comes out, before the crepe goes limp and cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most classic Hong Kong cafe–style dish that we ordered was the baked pork chop spaghetti — a pile of sweet, ketchup-spiked red sauce spaghetti topped with two big, juicy pork chops and an outlandish amount of stretchy melted cheese. Friends, this is late-night comfort food at its carby finest (though, admittedly, not the easiest or neatest dish to share).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To drink, E Plus offers a very respectable rendition of Hong Kong milk tea, served either cold or hot. But more adventurous diners may want to try the most surprising and delightful — and most overtly Hong Kong — menu item: hot Coke with lemon. It is what it sounds like: regular ol’ Coca-Cola, heated up to the temperature of hot tea so that it loses its fizz and amps up its sweetness, then mixed with a few thin rounds of lemon. Served this way, the drink tastes faintly medicinal — and indeed, in Hong Kong it’s a popular home remedy for a cough or sore throat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to think it made our singing voices especially potent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, there were some of us who sang with the sweet, dulcet tones of a Filipino angel … and others who, well, compensated for our tone deafness by singing with our whole chest 100% of the time — and not hanging onto even one shred of our dignity. I’ll leave you to imagine who took Whitney’s part and who stepped in as Mariah in the big power-ballad duet moment of the night, “When You Believe.” Who crooned the most mournful old-man version of Gordon Lightfoot’s “If You Could Read My Mind.” And who hit the high notes in “Let It Go” so sweetly and perfectly, we \u003ci>all\u003c/i> thought we’d turned into Disney princesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, the first and only rule of (private room) karaoke is that you keep those memories for yourself. Bury the video evidence. Never speak of it again. At least until the next time you get an irrepressible hankering for Don Henley and deep-fried chicken cartilage, and round up the whole gang once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eplusstudio94080.com/\">\u003ci>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 3 p.m.–1:30 a.m. daily at 490 S. Airport Blvd. Ste. A in South San Francisco. Call ahead to reserve a karaoke room if you plan to dine in.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968150\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968150\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg\" alt=\"Illustration: Three middle-aged men singing their hearts out at karaoke while a woman placidly eats a plate of spaghetti.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/2-Karaoke-Room-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At South San Francisco’s E Plus Karaoke and Cafe, the food and the vibes are both top-notch. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week’s guest artist is local dentist — and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/18439/happy-20th-birthday-wonderwall\">\u003ci>Oasis\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> superfan — Raynato Castro.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe isn’t exactly the world’s most inviting restaurant. Located on a sparse, warehouse-y block of South San Francisco, the dimly lit building is easy to miss if you aren’t actively looking for the “WE ARE OPEN” banner hanging high up on the wall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Was\u003c/i> it open? And was it even a restaurant, really? When we pulled up at 9 o’clock on a Friday night, the front door was locked shut, and a slightly passive-aggressive signboard half-scolded us: “Sorry no dine-in, TO-GO only.” After a minute of uncertainty, a burly security guard with extensive face tattoos finally emerged and asked us, affably, if we’d made a reservation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had. In fact, we’d been planning this night for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason we’d come to this slightly sketchy-looking shoebox of a karaoke joint was because, like so many of our Asian brethren, we live for karaoke — and also because we’d heard rumors that, in addition to having sweet private rooms (a.k.a. the only style of karaoke I abide) and superior song selection, E Plus also serves surprisingly good Cantonese food. Specifically, the sign in the window promises 港式西餐 — a genre of East-West fusion cuisine characteristic of Hong Kong–style coffee shops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be clear, though, the emphasis is on the karaoke. You aren’t even allowed to eat inside if you haven’t reserved one of those private karaoke rooms ahead of time. But apart from the karaoke, the place is probably best known for being one of just a handful of late-night takeout options in the immediate vicinity of the San Francisco International Airport. Both the kitchen and the karaoke are open until 1:30 a.m. every night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of which is to say, it didn’t necessarily \u003ci>seem\u003c/i> like there was any incentive for the E Plus kitchen to crank out much better than C plus food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13968154\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13968154\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg\" alt='Illustration: The exterior of E Plus Karaoke and Cafe on a dark night with a full moon. The banner on top of the building reads, \"WE ARE OPEN.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/11/1-Exterior-1920x1920.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don’t be deceived by the building’s somewhat uninviting exterior. \u003ccite>(Raynato Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One pro tip: Everyone knows the key to a successful karaoke night is assembling the right crew. That’s especially true at E Plus, because the smallest size room will run you $58 an hour (with a two-hour minimum) even before you factor in food and drink — Lord knows, a pricey date night in this economy. But if you can cobble together at least a group of four, E Plus offers a $38 per person combo deal that’s a legitimate bargain: Each person picks a dish and a non-alcoholic drink, and two hours of karaoke time are included.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyway, our group of four put in our order and then promptly forgot about it in the excitement of scoping out the room we’d been assigned, with its big, shiny couches, moody neon backlighting, and top-notch sound system. Before we knew it, we were fully in our feelings: broing out to an especially lonesome rendition of Savage Garden’s “Truly Madly Deeply” and straining our voices to hit the high notes of the late, great Biz Markie’s “Just a Friend.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Quietly, a staff member brought in the food we’d ordered, crouching down so she wouldn’t block our view of the lyrics. And would you believe that every dish was a hit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-style beef chow fun is a litmus test for any self-respecting \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962284/four-kings-hong-kong-restaurant-san-francisco-chinatown-hella-hungry-interview\">Canto food spot\u003c/a>, and E Plus’s version is as solid a rendition as I’ve had recently: soft, pliable noodles and well-charred beef, all glistening with a wonderfully savory soy sauce sheen. We took one bite and knew we were in good hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another house special is the spicy salt-and-pepper fried chicken cartilage, and it’s a knockout — a generous, piping-hot portion of crispy popcorn chicken, essentially, with a little bit of extra texture for good measure. This is the ideal accompaniment to cold beer or sake (both available for purchase) — and exactly the kind of finger food that’s convenient when you want to pop something in your mouth during, say, the 27-second instrumental intro to “Boys of Summer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>The roast duck pancake, meanwhile, turns out to be a kind of hybrid between jianbing (a kind of northern Chinese street food crepe) and a Peking duck wrap. The eggy crepe is flecked with black sesame seeds, brushed with hoisin sauce, and then piled with slices of roast duck and rolled up like a burrito. I loved the bit of crispy duck skin you get in every bite, but you’ll want to devour this quickly, as soon as it comes out, before the crepe goes limp and cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most classic Hong Kong cafe–style dish that we ordered was the baked pork chop spaghetti — a pile of sweet, ketchup-spiked red sauce spaghetti topped with two big, juicy pork chops and an outlandish amount of stretchy melted cheese. Friends, this is late-night comfort food at its carby finest (though, admittedly, not the easiest or neatest dish to share).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To drink, E Plus offers a very respectable rendition of Hong Kong milk tea, served either cold or hot. But more adventurous diners may want to try the most surprising and delightful — and most overtly Hong Kong — menu item: hot Coke with lemon. It is what it sounds like: regular ol’ Coca-Cola, heated up to the temperature of hot tea so that it loses its fizz and amps up its sweetness, then mixed with a few thin rounds of lemon. Served this way, the drink tastes faintly medicinal — and indeed, in Hong Kong it’s a popular home remedy for a cough or sore throat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I like to think it made our singing voices especially potent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, there were some of us who sang with the sweet, dulcet tones of a Filipino angel … and others who, well, compensated for our tone deafness by singing with our whole chest 100% of the time — and not hanging onto even one shred of our dignity. I’ll leave you to imagine who took Whitney’s part and who stepped in as Mariah in the big power-ballad duet moment of the night, “When You Believe.” Who crooned the most mournful old-man version of Gordon Lightfoot’s “If You Could Read My Mind.” And who hit the high notes in “Let It Go” so sweetly and perfectly, we \u003ci>all\u003c/i> thought we’d turned into Disney princesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, the first and only rule of (private room) karaoke is that you keep those memories for yourself. Bury the video evidence. Never speak of it again. At least until the next time you get an irrepressible hankering for Don Henley and deep-fried chicken cartilage, and round up the whole gang once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eplusstudio94080.com/\">\u003ci>E Plus Karaoke and Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open 3 p.m.–1:30 a.m. daily at 490 S. Airport Blvd. Ste. A in South San Francisco. Call ahead to reserve a karaoke room if you plan to dine in.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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},
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"info": "The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/bbc-world-service",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/",
"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
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},
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"id": "californiareport",
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"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1MDAyODE4NTgz",
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},
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"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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},
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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},
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},
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
"link": "/forum",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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},
"freakonomics-radio": {
"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"info": "Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "http://mastersofscale.app.link/",
"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast",
"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"
}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
"meta": {
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