Beloved African and Caribbean Market Is Opening a New Restaurant in Oakland
Oakland’s First and Only Haitian Restaurant Is a Knockout
Tasty Tings Is an Underground Jamaican Patty Party in the Bay
Miss Ollie’s Will Reopen as a Takeout Window in Uptown Oakland
Miss Ollie's Closes: The End of an Era for Oakland's Black and Brown Communities
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"content": "\u003cp>A few weeks ago on a formerly quiet corner near Lake Merritt, anyone buzzing by on 18th Street might have spotted a freshly painted building in juicy mango yellow. A small crowd gathered around a colorful mural while tables and umbrellas spilled across the parking lot and the smoky scent of jollof rice and jerk chicken filled the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to the new flagship for \u003ca href=\"https://manmustwak.net\">Man Must Wak\u003c/a>, one of the few African and Caribbean markets in the Bay Area. The store celebrated the grand opening of its new Oakland location on Saturday, June 15, and announced plans to build out a fast-casual restaurant on the premises by summer 2025. “This is a decades-long dream,” says owner Queenkay Amamgbo. “I wanted a place where I could have a kitchen and a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man Must Wak has been serving the community for 26 years. “It’s one of the first African grocery stores in the Bay Area,” says Kemi Tijaniqudus of \u003ca href=\"https://thejollofkitchen.com\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, the Nigerian food truck. “That’s where I started going since the minute I stepped into this country.” She’s one of many local chefs who are regulars, along with Frantz Felix of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">T’chaka\u003c/a> and Roxanne Mosley of \u003ca href=\"https://sweetfingersrestaurant.com\">Sweet Fingers\u003c/a>. The original market on 8th Street in Old Oakland is the place to go for hard-to-find ingredients that offer a taste of home, like goat, stockfish, egusi (melon seeds) and plantain chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amamgbo, the owner, grew up in Lagos and comes from the Igbo tribe of southeast Nigeria. She moved to the States when she was 18 to live with an aunt in Washington, D.C., before continuing to Hollywood to pursue a career in acting. There she met her first husband Charles Emeka Amamgbo, a businessman headed to Holland or back to Nigeria. The couple compromised and settled in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Afro-Caribbean market Man Must Wak's bright yellow storefront with a mural depicting a woman strolling through a bustling African outdoor market.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The market’s new location — just a couple of blocks away from Lake Merritt — will eventually feature a fast-casual restaurant. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles opened the original Man Must Wak in downtown Oakland in 1998. Amamgbo says he was tired of working for European companies and loved serving the West African community. “He liked to help people. People came in for advice and to seek solace,” Amamgbo says. “I learned a lot from him, that you should have a safe space for people to come to.” The name Man Must Wak literally means “man must eat” in Nigerian Pidgin, so it’s slang for a universal truth: “Whether you’re paying with EBT or an Amex Black Card, we’ve all gotta eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charles died from leukemia in 2007 at only 43 years old. Amamgbo became a young widow at 33, with their two little boys then six and three. She had been busy working a corporate job and taking care of a sick husband. She knew the vendors and customers at the market but hadn’t looked at the books. When she inherited Man Must Wak, she realized the business was $100,000 in debt, had not paid taxes for four or five years, and was behind on payments to vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13936332,arts_13960580']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>She ran Man Must Wak by herself as a single mom for the next decade, with the support of close family and friends and loyal employees. In the beginning, she heard some people placed bets on how many months she would last before she closed shop and moved back to L.A. “I just went tunnel-vision and focused on survival mode,” Amamgbo says. “It’s through tragedy or loss that you know who really cares about you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later, a lady from church told Amamgbo to get coffee with this “really nice guy.” Amamgbo recognized Dennis Itua, a former customer who had moved away for a few years. She liked his dimples and creative streak as an interior designer, but wasn’t convinced — “he was very quiet.” When they did finally get together, Itua said, “You just be your Oprah, and I’ll be your Stedman,” referring to the TV star’s longtime partner. A couple of years ago, when the real Stedman Graham came into Man Must Wak, Itua happened to be in the shop to casually greet the celebrity. Shoppers in the store were delighted and it blew up on Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960860\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960860\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A married couple shares a laugh while standing behind the counter inside the market they run.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and husband Dennis Itua stand behind the counter at the E. 18th Street location of Man Must Wak. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The couple got married in 2017, and Itua has been an integral part of the business ever since. Along with their three boys: Chika Amamgbo (22 years old) recently graduated from Howard University, Lota Amamgbo (19) is going to study arts at SF State and Ero Itua (20) is at film school in L.A. They’ve all worked weekends and summers stocking shelves and bagging groceries. “We want to build a strong, solid legacy,” Amamgbo says. “You don’t have to work here, but this is going to be something you can be part of and run.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new market by Lake Merritt will eventually be triple the size of the original. Amamgbo took out an SBA loan to buy the entire standalone building. The market itself is 7,500 square feet, the parking lot is 2,000 square feet and they plan to build out and up, adding an extension and rooftop deck. For now, they started with a fresh coat of yellow paint and rolled in shelves. Amamgbo’s nephew, the artist Gabriel Olubori Babaoye, painted the mural on the storefront, inspired by an African woman wading through a bustling market. The big renovation is still to come, but the vision for the fast-casual restaurant is a hot bar lined with steaming trays of grilled meats, fried rice and more. So you’ll swing through the door, hit the hot bar right in the center, peruse the market over to the left, and snag a seat at one of the tables outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960962\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960962\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg\" alt=\"Meat cooking on a grill.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat sizzling on the grill during Man Must Wak’s grand opening event on June 15, 2024. \u003ccite>(Joseph Sintum Photography, courtesy of Man Must Wak)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960946\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960946\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A woman shows off a bag of Scotch bonnet peppers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo shows off a package of frozen Scotch bonnet peppers — just one of the many Afro-Caribbean specialty ingredients her market carries. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They plan to add the restaurant by summer 2025. Itua, the chef of the family, grew up in hospitality — his father owned hotels, restaurants and bakeries in Nigeria. He’s been cooking behind the scenes for years, handling all of the prepared foods and catering. “It’ll be a fusion of African and Caribbean cuisine,” Amamgbo says. “The best of both worlds.” She’s already talking big game about their jollof rice. “The best Nigerian jollof rice. Period.” Itua’s specialty is a whole fish which he seasons and grills “to perfection.” Jamaican favorites will include curry goat and jerk chicken, along with spinach sauce, okra sauce and moi moi (bean pudding).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of the Man Must Wak, it’ll be exciting to swing by and try hot items for the first time. And for a whole new audience of Oakland diners, it’s a rare opportunity to taste West African home cooking in a central location. Star chef Pierre Thiam, who just made the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8J_y75yhdm/?hl=en&img_index=1\">James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame\u003c/a>, says he can’t wait. “West African cuisine is finally getting recognized worldwide,” Thiam says. He cites restaurants like \u003ca href=\"https://www.tatiananyc.com\">Tatiana\u003c/a> in New York, an impossible-to-get reservation, and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/ikoyi\">Ikoyi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/akoko\">Akoko\u003c/a> in London, which finally snagged Michelin stars, and insists it’s just as important to have an accessible market and restaurant in the heart of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She’s a strong personality. She’s a queen,” he says of Amamgbo. “You have to respect that … Culture is so powerful, and that really is a blessing for us West Africans to have a place like that, and it’s a blessing for others who haven’t experienced it before.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960964\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960964\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A man and woman stand in front of the yellow mural that decorates the front of their Afro-Caribbean market.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and Itua stand in front of their new Lake Merritt storefront. The restaurant portion of the business is expected to open in summer 2025. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, while the restaurant is still in the works, Amamgbo plans to get this party started. The new market is already fully open for business, and Itua will be firing up the grill for more events in the parking lot this summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We are your home away from home, a place where you go to feel loved and accepted,” Amamgbo says. “You’re not judged for being too loud, because we are loud.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Man Must Wak’s new market and forthcoming restaurant is located at 401 E. 18th St. in Oakland, near Lake Merritt; its current hours are 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily. The original Old Oakland location remains open 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily at 547 8th St. Follow the market’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/manmustwak/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> page for updates and details about upcoming events.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A few weeks ago on a formerly quiet corner near Lake Merritt, anyone buzzing by on 18th Street might have spotted a freshly painted building in juicy mango yellow. A small crowd gathered around a colorful mural while tables and umbrellas spilled across the parking lot and the smoky scent of jollof rice and jerk chicken filled the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Welcome to the new flagship for \u003ca href=\"https://manmustwak.net\">Man Must Wak\u003c/a>, one of the few African and Caribbean markets in the Bay Area. The store celebrated the grand opening of its new Oakland location on Saturday, June 15, and announced plans to build out a fast-casual restaurant on the premises by summer 2025. “This is a decades-long dream,” says owner Queenkay Amamgbo. “I wanted a place where I could have a kitchen and a parking lot.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Man Must Wak has been serving the community for 26 years. “It’s one of the first African grocery stores in the Bay Area,” says Kemi Tijaniqudus of \u003ca href=\"https://thejollofkitchen.com\">Jollof Kitchen\u003c/a>, the Nigerian food truck. “That’s where I started going since the minute I stepped into this country.” She’s one of many local chefs who are regulars, along with Frantz Felix of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13936332/tchaka-haitian-restaurant-oakland\">T’chaka\u003c/a> and Roxanne Mosley of \u003ca href=\"https://sweetfingersrestaurant.com\">Sweet Fingers\u003c/a>. The original market on 8th Street in Old Oakland is the place to go for hard-to-find ingredients that offer a taste of home, like goat, stockfish, egusi (melon seeds) and plantain chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amamgbo, the owner, grew up in Lagos and comes from the Igbo tribe of southeast Nigeria. She moved to the States when she was 18 to live with an aunt in Washington, D.C., before continuing to Hollywood to pursue a career in acting. There she met her first husband Charles Emeka Amamgbo, a businessman headed to Holland or back to Nigeria. The couple compromised and settled in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Afro-Caribbean market Man Must Wak's bright yellow storefront with a mural depicting a woman strolling through a bustling African outdoor market.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-42-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The market’s new location — just a couple of blocks away from Lake Merritt — will eventually feature a fast-casual restaurant. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Charles opened the original Man Must Wak in downtown Oakland in 1998. Amamgbo says he was tired of working for European companies and loved serving the West African community. “He liked to help people. People came in for advice and to seek solace,” Amamgbo says. “I learned a lot from him, that you should have a safe space for people to come to.” The name Man Must Wak literally means “man must eat” in Nigerian Pidgin, so it’s slang for a universal truth: “Whether you’re paying with EBT or an Amex Black Card, we’ve all gotta eat.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Charles died from leukemia in 2007 at only 43 years old. Amamgbo became a young widow at 33, with their two little boys then six and three. She had been busy working a corporate job and taking care of a sick husband. She knew the vendors and customers at the market but hadn’t looked at the books. When she inherited Man Must Wak, she realized the business was $100,000 in debt, had not paid taxes for four or five years, and was behind on payments to vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>She ran Man Must Wak by herself as a single mom for the next decade, with the support of close family and friends and loyal employees. In the beginning, she heard some people placed bets on how many months she would last before she closed shop and moved back to L.A. “I just went tunnel-vision and focused on survival mode,” Amamgbo says. “It’s through tragedy or loss that you know who really cares about you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years later, a lady from church told Amamgbo to get coffee with this “really nice guy.” Amamgbo recognized Dennis Itua, a former customer who had moved away for a few years. She liked his dimples and creative streak as an interior designer, but wasn’t convinced — “he was very quiet.” When they did finally get together, Itua said, “You just be your Oprah, and I’ll be your Stedman,” referring to the TV star’s longtime partner. A couple of years ago, when the real Stedman Graham came into Man Must Wak, Itua happened to be in the shop to casually greet the celebrity. Shoppers in the store were delighted and it blew up on Facebook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960860\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960860\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A married couple shares a laugh while standing behind the counter inside the market they run.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-12-BL-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and husband Dennis Itua stand behind the counter at the E. 18th Street location of Man Must Wak. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The couple got married in 2017, and Itua has been an integral part of the business ever since. Along with their three boys: Chika Amamgbo (22 years old) recently graduated from Howard University, Lota Amamgbo (19) is going to study arts at SF State and Ero Itua (20) is at film school in L.A. They’ve all worked weekends and summers stocking shelves and bagging groceries. “We want to build a strong, solid legacy,” Amamgbo says. “You don’t have to work here, but this is going to be something you can be part of and run.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new market by Lake Merritt will eventually be triple the size of the original. Amamgbo took out an SBA loan to buy the entire standalone building. The market itself is 7,500 square feet, the parking lot is 2,000 square feet and they plan to build out and up, adding an extension and rooftop deck. For now, they started with a fresh coat of yellow paint and rolled in shelves. Amamgbo’s nephew, the artist Gabriel Olubori Babaoye, painted the mural on the storefront, inspired by an African woman wading through a bustling market. The big renovation is still to come, but the vision for the fast-casual restaurant is a hot bar lined with steaming trays of grilled meats, fried rice and more. So you’ll swing through the door, hit the hot bar right in the center, peruse the market over to the left, and snag a seat at one of the tables outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960962\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960962\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg\" alt=\"Meat cooking on a grill.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize.jpg 1600w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/A7400282_websize-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat sizzling on the grill during Man Must Wak’s grand opening event on June 15, 2024. \u003ccite>(Joseph Sintum Photography, courtesy of Man Must Wak)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960946\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960946\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A woman shows off a bag of Scotch bonnet peppers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-26-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo shows off a package of frozen Scotch bonnet peppers — just one of the many Afro-Caribbean specialty ingredients her market carries. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>They plan to add the restaurant by summer 2025. Itua, the chef of the family, grew up in hospitality — his father owned hotels, restaurants and bakeries in Nigeria. He’s been cooking behind the scenes for years, handling all of the prepared foods and catering. “It’ll be a fusion of African and Caribbean cuisine,” Amamgbo says. “The best of both worlds.” She’s already talking big game about their jollof rice. “The best Nigerian jollof rice. Period.” Itua’s specialty is a whole fish which he seasons and grills “to perfection.” Jamaican favorites will include curry goat and jerk chicken, along with spinach sauce, okra sauce and moi moi (bean pudding).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of the Man Must Wak, it’ll be exciting to swing by and try hot items for the first time. And for a whole new audience of Oakland diners, it’s a rare opportunity to taste West African home cooking in a central location. Star chef Pierre Thiam, who just made the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C8J_y75yhdm/?hl=en&img_index=1\">James Beard Cookbook Hall of Fame\u003c/a>, says he can’t wait. “West African cuisine is finally getting recognized worldwide,” Thiam says. He cites restaurants like \u003ca href=\"https://www.tatiananyc.com\">Tatiana\u003c/a> in New York, an impossible-to-get reservation, and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/ikoyi\">Ikoyi\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/greater-london/london/restaurant/akoko\">Akoko\u003c/a> in London, which finally snagged Michelin stars, and insists it’s just as important to have an accessible market and restaurant in the heart of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She’s a strong personality. She’s a queen,” he says of Amamgbo. “You have to respect that … Culture is so powerful, and that really is a blessing for us West Africans to have a place like that, and it’s a blessing for others who haven’t experienced it before.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13960964\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13960964\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg\" alt=\"A man and woman stand in front of the yellow mural that decorates the front of their Afro-Caribbean market.\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed.jpg 1999w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2024/07/240709-ManMustWak2-08-BL_qed-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Amamgbo and Itua stand in front of their new Lake Merritt storefront. The restaurant portion of the business is expected to open in summer 2025. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, while the restaurant is still in the works, Amamgbo plans to get this party started. The new market is already fully open for business, and Itua will be firing up the grill for more events in the parking lot this summer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We are your home away from home, a place where you go to feel loved and accepted,” Amamgbo says. “You’re not judged for being too loud, because we are loud.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Man Must Wak’s new market and forthcoming restaurant is located at 401 E. 18th St. in Oakland, near Lake Merritt; its current hours are 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily. The original Old Oakland location remains open 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily at 547 8th St. Follow the market’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/manmustwak/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> page for updates and details about upcoming events.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Oakland’s First and Only Haitian Restaurant Is a Knockout",
"headTitle": "Oakland’s First and Only Haitian Restaurant Is a Knockout | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Frantz Felix was tired of how the only time Americans ever seemed to talk about Haiti was in connection to some humanitarian disaster: a massive earthquake or mind-boggling act of government malfeasance. He wanted to show another side to his country of birth — the richness of its culture, the deliciousness of its foodways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, Felix opened \u003ca href=\"https://www.tchaka.online/\">T’chaka\u003c/a>, Oakland’s first and only Haitian restaurant, in the former \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">Miss Ollie\u003c/a>’s location in Old Oakland. And it only took one bite into a single dish — the unspeakably succulent chunks of fried, citrus-marinated pork known as griot (aka griyo) — for me to fully embrace what appears to be the restaurant’s central thesis: that Haitian food is freaking amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Felix, the path toward opening one of the Bay Area’s most exciting new restaurants started when he was a seven-year-old learning how to cook in his mother’s kitchen in Haiti. For the first 10 years after he relocated to the Bay Area, Felix was the kind of enthusiastic home cook that friends and family were always encouraging to open a restaurant — until finally, in 2009, he started selling Haitian food on weekends on the local festival circuit. Eventually, he parlayed that business into a food truck called Caribbean Spices, and then in 2019, seven months before the COVID lockdown hit, he opened a \u003ca href=\"https://caribbeanspicessanrafael.com/\">restaurant in San Rafael by the same name\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>T’chaka, on the other hand, is Felix’s most ambitious project yet. One of the reasons the new restaurant’s arrival is so heartening is because of its specific location: T’chaka’s predecessor at this corner spot at Swan’s Market was Miss Ollie’s, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">a beacon for Afro-Caribbean cooking\u003c/a> until it closed last year. For more than 10 years, Miss Ollie’s was a destination restaurant for Caribbean folks from all over the Bay Area, including Felix, who says he always appreciated the love that the chef, Sarah Kirnon, \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2019/07/24/food-spirituality-and-healing-chef-sarah-kirnons-personal-connection-to-haiti\">showed for Haitian cuisine\u003c/a> in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She’s like a pioneer to us,” he says, noting how few Caribbean restaurants existed locally when Miss Ollie’s first opened 11 years ago. “I take it as an honor to be in that location.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a kind of poetry to the city’s only Haitian restaurant taking up that mantle, but it’d all be for naught if the food didn’t actually hit. And hit it does, again and again. The aforementioned griot is essentially a flawless dish — deeply flavorful, juicy and tender with charred, crispy edges. I consider myself something of a pork connoisseur, and I’d easily put the dish at the very top of the top tier, especially once you factor in the A+ accompaniments. There were excellent rice and peas, sweet and savory plantains, the bright and tangy slaw known as pikliz and a punchy, mustard-hued house-made scotch bonnet hot sauce so delicious you’ll want to drizzle it on everything (and then buy a bottle to bring home).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plainly stated, the dish is a knockout. It’s easy to see why it’s the national dish in Haiti — the first thing they’ll serve you after you get off the plane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13936341\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13936341\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee.jpg\" alt=\"Saltfish and ackee: a scramble of ackee fruit (which looks like scrambled eggs) served on a blue plate with white rice, plantains and pikliz.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saltfish and ackee, a classic Caribbean brunch staple. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For first-timers to the cuisine, Felix explains that all of the Caribbean islands use more or less the same ingredients and spices, but what sets Haitian cooking apart is the marination of the meats and the particulars of the cooking process — which, in Felix’s view, yields a particularly succulent take on jerk chicken and a lighter, more toothsome version of rice and peas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m not going to say the other islands don’t cook well,” he says. “But for sure, Haitian food is one of the best foods in the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn’t even consider wading into the dangerous waters of adjudicating whether Haitian jerk chicken is better than the Jamaican version, or measuring how Haitian curry goat stacks up to its Bajan or Trinidadian counterparts. Suffice it to say that even though the griot ranks up there with the best things I’ve eaten this year, it might not have even been my favorite dish at T’chaka. That honor goes to the braised oxtails, a dish I’ll order anytime I see it on a menu, and this was as good as it gets — meaty beyond expectation, with all of the soft, gelatinous bits cooked to such a state of jiggly lusciousness that sucking on the bones was pure pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13936342\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13936342\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of Haitian-style braised oxtails, served with a mound of rice and peas, tostones and pikliz.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">T’chaka’s take on Caribbean braised oxtails is as good as it gets. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were also piping-hot fritters called akra, which imbued grated taro root with all the comforting qualities of a fast-food hash brown patty, but with no hint of grease. On the Sunday brunch menu, there was the Haitian version of saltfish and ackee, a fruit with the acidity of a tomato and the texture and appearance of scrambled eggs — delicious over plain white rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13910410,arts_13931303,arts_13931115']\u003c/span>All that and I haven’t even yet had a chance to try some of the more uniquely Haitian dishes on the menu — the crispy fried goat served on the bone, or the weekend-only t’chaka, the restaurant’s namesake dish, a soup made with beans, corn and salted pork. Felix chose the name to honor his mother, who passed away earlier this year. “My mom taught me pretty much everything,” he says. T’chaka was her favorite dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As delicious as the food at T’chaka is, Felix says his ambitions go even deeper than that. Every week, he says, it seems like there’s another negative news story about Haiti, and he wants his restaurant’s sun-dappled patio to be an antidote to all of that — a chance for diners in Oakland to get a taste of Haiti’s beautiful culture and amazing history of \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/the-haitian-revolution-and-the-hole-in-french-high-school-history\">anti-colonial resistance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I consider myself an ambassador for Haiti,” Felix says. “I want to prove to them that Haiti is one of the best countries in the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tchaka.online/\">T’chaka\u003c/a> is open Wed. through Sat. for lunch and dinner (11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–9 p.m.) and Sun. for all-day brunch (11 a.m.–6 p.m.). It’s located at Swan’s Market, 901 Washington St. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "T’chaka brings soulful oxtails, griots and Caribbean spice to the old Miss Ollie’s location.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Frantz Felix was tired of how the only time Americans ever seemed to talk about Haiti was in connection to some humanitarian disaster: a massive earthquake or mind-boggling act of government malfeasance. He wanted to show another side to his country of birth — the richness of its culture, the deliciousness of its foodways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, Felix opened \u003ca href=\"https://www.tchaka.online/\">T’chaka\u003c/a>, Oakland’s first and only Haitian restaurant, in the former \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">Miss Ollie\u003c/a>’s location in Old Oakland. And it only took one bite into a single dish — the unspeakably succulent chunks of fried, citrus-marinated pork known as griot (aka griyo) — for me to fully embrace what appears to be the restaurant’s central thesis: that Haitian food is freaking amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Felix, the path toward opening one of the Bay Area’s most exciting new restaurants started when he was a seven-year-old learning how to cook in his mother’s kitchen in Haiti. For the first 10 years after he relocated to the Bay Area, Felix was the kind of enthusiastic home cook that friends and family were always encouraging to open a restaurant — until finally, in 2009, he started selling Haitian food on weekends on the local festival circuit. Eventually, he parlayed that business into a food truck called Caribbean Spices, and then in 2019, seven months before the COVID lockdown hit, he opened a \u003ca href=\"https://caribbeanspicessanrafael.com/\">restaurant in San Rafael by the same name\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>T’chaka, on the other hand, is Felix’s most ambitious project yet. One of the reasons the new restaurant’s arrival is so heartening is because of its specific location: T’chaka’s predecessor at this corner spot at Swan’s Market was Miss Ollie’s, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">a beacon for Afro-Caribbean cooking\u003c/a> until it closed last year. For more than 10 years, Miss Ollie’s was a destination restaurant for Caribbean folks from all over the Bay Area, including Felix, who says he always appreciated the love that the chef, Sarah Kirnon, \u003ca href=\"https://www.splendidtable.org/story/2019/07/24/food-spirituality-and-healing-chef-sarah-kirnons-personal-connection-to-haiti\">showed for Haitian cuisine\u003c/a> in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She’s like a pioneer to us,” he says, noting how few Caribbean restaurants existed locally when Miss Ollie’s first opened 11 years ago. “I take it as an honor to be in that location.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a kind of poetry to the city’s only Haitian restaurant taking up that mantle, but it’d all be for naught if the food didn’t actually hit. And hit it does, again and again. The aforementioned griot is essentially a flawless dish — deeply flavorful, juicy and tender with charred, crispy edges. I consider myself something of a pork connoisseur, and I’d easily put the dish at the very top of the top tier, especially once you factor in the A+ accompaniments. There were excellent rice and peas, sweet and savory plantains, the bright and tangy slaw known as pikliz and a punchy, mustard-hued house-made scotch bonnet hot sauce so delicious you’ll want to drizzle it on everything (and then buy a bottle to bring home).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plainly stated, the dish is a knockout. It’s easy to see why it’s the national dish in Haiti — the first thing they’ll serve you after you get off the plane.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13936341\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13936341\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee.jpg\" alt=\"Saltfish and ackee: a scramble of ackee fruit (which looks like scrambled eggs) served on a blue plate with white rice, plantains and pikliz.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_ackee-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saltfish and ackee, a classic Caribbean brunch staple. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For first-timers to the cuisine, Felix explains that all of the Caribbean islands use more or less the same ingredients and spices, but what sets Haitian cooking apart is the marination of the meats and the particulars of the cooking process — which, in Felix’s view, yields a particularly succulent take on jerk chicken and a lighter, more toothsome version of rice and peas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m not going to say the other islands don’t cook well,” he says. “But for sure, Haitian food is one of the best foods in the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wouldn’t even consider wading into the dangerous waters of adjudicating whether Haitian jerk chicken is better than the Jamaican version, or measuring how Haitian curry goat stacks up to its Bajan or Trinidadian counterparts. Suffice it to say that even though the griot ranks up there with the best things I’ve eaten this year, it might not have even been my favorite dish at T’chaka. That honor goes to the braised oxtails, a dish I’ll order anytime I see it on a menu, and this was as good as it gets — meaty beyond expectation, with all of the soft, gelatinous bits cooked to such a state of jiggly lusciousness that sucking on the bones was pure pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13936342\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13936342\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of Haitian-style braised oxtails, served with a mound of rice and peas, tostones and pikliz.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/10/tchaka_oxtails-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">T’chaka’s take on Caribbean braised oxtails is as good as it gets. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were also piping-hot fritters called akra, which imbued grated taro root with all the comforting qualities of a fast-food hash brown patty, but with no hint of grease. On the Sunday brunch menu, there was the Haitian version of saltfish and ackee, a fruit with the acidity of a tomato and the texture and appearance of scrambled eggs — delicious over plain white rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>All that and I haven’t even yet had a chance to try some of the more uniquely Haitian dishes on the menu — the crispy fried goat served on the bone, or the weekend-only t’chaka, the restaurant’s namesake dish, a soup made with beans, corn and salted pork. Felix chose the name to honor his mother, who passed away earlier this year. “My mom taught me pretty much everything,” he says. T’chaka was her favorite dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As delicious as the food at T’chaka is, Felix says his ambitions go even deeper than that. Every week, he says, it seems like there’s another negative news story about Haiti, and he wants his restaurant’s sun-dappled patio to be an antidote to all of that — a chance for diners in Oakland to get a taste of Haiti’s beautiful culture and amazing history of \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/the-haitian-revolution-and-the-hole-in-french-high-school-history\">anti-colonial resistance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I consider myself an ambassador for Haiti,” Felix says. “I want to prove to them that Haiti is one of the best countries in the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tchaka.online/\">T’chaka\u003c/a> is open Wed. through Sat. for lunch and dinner (11 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–9 p.m.) and Sun. for all-day brunch (11 a.m.–6 p.m.). It’s located at Swan’s Market, 901 Washington St. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "tasty-tings-jamaican-beef-patties-sf-oakland",
"title": "Tasty Tings Is an Underground Jamaican Patty Party in the Bay",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>generation\u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci> local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jamaican beef patties are one of those foods you can only truly appreciate if you’ve ever lived outside of the Bay Area. Hefty enough to satiate your stomach, compact enough to grub on while walking to the bus stop and packing enough kick to light up your taste buds, these patties are a quintessentially Caribbean street food that West Coast cities generally lack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t until I migrated to the East Coast, where the Caribbean population is far more sizable than it is in California, that I fell in love with the gold-flaked zing of the Jamaican patty. Similar to an empanada, the patties are warm, spicy, beefed up and — very importantly — affordable enough to buy with whatever dollar bills you have crinkled up in your pockets. Often stuffed with various combinations of meats or veggies, Jamaican patties are a versatile vessel for deliciousness. They got me through my coldest winters in Boston and proved to be a worthy substitute for the street tacos I sorely missed, especially after late-night functions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since returning to the Bay, I’ve noticed the lack of Caribbean patties here. I missed them. So you can understand my excitement when I found Tasty Tings, a one-woman pop-up run by Bayview born-and-raised Alyssa Magdaluyo, who was vending the Jamaican baked goods on a sidewalk in Oakland. I immediately stopped what I was doing, crossed the street and ordered a few to take home to my wife, who misses Jamaican beef patties even more than I do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926981\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg\" alt=\"The owner of Tasty Tings poses in front of a sign for her Jamaican food pop up.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-800x795.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1020x1014.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-768x763.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1536x1526.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alyssa Magdaluyo poses at a food pop-up event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tasty Tings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Magdaluyo, who is a mix of Jamaican, Filipina, Chinese and Creole heritages, uses her food as a way to console herself and others. “I love eating,” she says. “But also I love being able to feed. To be able to share food with others is the most comforting experience.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s what the 28-year-old had to say about her Frisco flavors — served with a dash of Caribbean fire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: You’re a full-time food hustler. How did you get into foodmaking?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alyssa Magdaluyo: \u003c/b>I just love cooking. I’m the youngest of three siblings. By the time I was born my mom was over cooking. It was always make-your-own-dinner night. The fridge was always stocked, so that was an entryway into cooking. Growing up, I’ve always wanted [to own] a bakery or restaurant or to be a food columnist, but living in San Francisco is hella expensive to eat out all the time. Cooking became a survival thing and a way to eat food I can’t afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why did you start Tasty Tings?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to hit up Jamaica, the motherland — but then COVID happened. I hit up the Philippines before that though. I also visited New Orleans since I’m Creole. Since I couldn’t go to Jamaica, I started experimenting more with patties, and I put it on social media. People just wanted to keep eating my food. This is my third official year since shelter in place. Every year I’m just surprised. I think I’ll have to get a job serving again, but my people and my community have always held me and supported me. Like damn, I make really good food, and I hold it to the standards of any job I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell us about the Jamaican-style patties you serve.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s like an empanada. I do a lentil one — lentils stewed in coconut cream and garlic. You can tell I’m Filipino because of all the garlic (laughs). I love the mushroom, too. It’s spicy jerk mushroom and bell peppers. Sometimes I be making it a little too spicy ‘cause the marinade gets absorbed into the dough (laughs). The beef and cheese are really popular. I like cheese, so I’m always trying to add more cheese. The shrimp one is really fire — jerk shrimp with cheese. It has caramelized leeks and bell peppers. And curry chicken was my other favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year I try to do another [flavor] and perfect it. I usually do a sweet one for fun — coconut condensed milk and bananas. I wanna do a plantain one, a spicy one. But it would be hella dense. I’m trying to mix it up this year. October is Filipino Heritage Month, and I do try to do Filipino flavors, like longaniza. It’s longaniza pork in spicy papaya salad with an egg. It’s difficult putting that together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926977\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13926977\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"A Jamaican beef patty on a wooden table\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A classic Jamaican beef patty from Tasty Tings. \u003ccite>(Elliott Alexander)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your process for making a batch of patties?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a prep station at my house. It’s in my living room. It’s all super small-batch. I can probably yield 150 max. I usually just get everything from the store — Mandela or Berkeley Bowl, they have all those special seasonings. I used the smoked salt for the chicken and the jerk because it gives it that flavor since I can’t barbecue mushrooms. Jerk is like Jamaican-style barbecue, basically. I’m trying to infuse those flavors without actually grilling. I just be going crazy looking at patties after that (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You proudly grew up in San Francisco. How does that influence your approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13925984,arts_13922141,arts_13926878']I went to school in Pac Heights, and all my classmates were Chinese. And I lived in Bayview where all my neighbors were Black. They each saw me as the other. I just rolled with it. I lived on a hill, right in the middle, so I just created a balance. Took what I liked and kept it pushing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being from the city and watching it change all the time, especially from living in Bayview, you see it all change, and it’s disheartening. Police corruption, community issues. I like to walk down 24th Street to remember I live here, I’m from here. That’s a mental health walk for me. I’m so grateful. SF breaks my heart so much, but I still love it. It’s like a relationship. I ride so hard for being on this land, but it’s disheartening when it doesn’t want to push you forward also.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You often collaborate with local artists, including \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910221/family-not-a-group-san-francisco-rap\">\u003cb>Family Not A Group\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, the San Francisco collective. What’s your connection to them?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I fucking love FNG. Shout out to all 17 of y’all. I honestly have a personal relationship with everyone in FNG. Just from being raised in this city. The artist hub [in San Francisco] is so small. It makes sense for us to use our platforms to help each other. I wouldn’t be where I’m at without having the support of my community. It’s a beautiful space to be a part of. I’ve known \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thejenset/?hl=en\">DJ Jenset\u003c/a> since we were 15. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/everybodylovezmike/\">Mike Evans\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baghead.fng/\">Baghead\u003c/a> I knew from when we were in the Mario Woods Coalition together. I love being around them. Seeing them all together is even better because we’ve shared experiences together. FNG reminds me that we exist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/justice4mariowoodscoalition/\">\u003cb>Mario Woods Coalition\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a grip of people combating police brutality. We had meetings and set up protest dates. Being in that space helped me. I didn’t really have a group of friends in my community until I went to those meetings. Thank god I wasn’t the only one worrying about this. I was happy I found a safe space where we were trying to do something about it and not just being terrorized.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s one thing about San Francisco you think outsiders might not understand?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s pushed out so many people. [But] the community is what makes it beautiful. It’s not Lands End hype. [That’s] so fake. This isn’t what people are here for. They want the art, the music, the community leaders, the muralists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Alyssa Magdaluyo\"]“I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.”[/pullquote]I honestly got evicted out of my family home five years ago, and I came to Oakland. I didn’t think I would enjoy it… well that’s not true. I just love my home [in SF]. But I’ve learned about a new community, and Oakland holds it down. I’m eternally grateful to stay in the Bay. But I love my home and being able to feed you guys and go to all these cool shows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you have any favorite beef patty hideouts in the Bay Area besides your own?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I honestly haven’t had many beef patties in the Bay. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/peachespatties/?hl=en\">Peaches Patties\u003c/a> — she was at Outside Lands. Those are freakin’ good. I honestly went to New York and did some research and development (laughs). There’s this one in New York, I wish i could tell you where it was, a Senegalese spot; they make these curry goat patties. So good. But I’m not handling goat. That’s just next level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the realities of operating a pop-up food business in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just trying to find a balance between handling and saving my mental health and physical health and not burning out — having better boundaries. I can’t overextend myself and make 250 patties to sell out. I’m staying in my lane of 100 to 50 small-batch [so I can] have a real connection with the people I’m vending to rather than having only a transactional moment. I didn’t start it for that. This was a passion project to share comfort with friends and my community [during the pandemic], and it extended to a lot of people who needed food vendors. I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tasty_tings/\">\u003ci>Tasty Tings\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram for announcements on pop-up events and locations around the Bay Area. Catering is also available; send inquiries to \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"mailto:tastytings@gmail.com\">\u003ci>tastytings@gmail.com\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Tasty Tings Is an Underground Jamaican Patty Party in Oakland and SF | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>generation\u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci> local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jamaican beef patties are one of those foods you can only truly appreciate if you’ve ever lived outside of the Bay Area. Hefty enough to satiate your stomach, compact enough to grub on while walking to the bus stop and packing enough kick to light up your taste buds, these patties are a quintessentially Caribbean street food that West Coast cities generally lack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t until I migrated to the East Coast, where the Caribbean population is far more sizable than it is in California, that I fell in love with the gold-flaked zing of the Jamaican patty. Similar to an empanada, the patties are warm, spicy, beefed up and — very importantly — affordable enough to buy with whatever dollar bills you have crinkled up in your pockets. Often stuffed with various combinations of meats or veggies, Jamaican patties are a versatile vessel for deliciousness. They got me through my coldest winters in Boston and proved to be a worthy substitute for the street tacos I sorely missed, especially after late-night functions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since returning to the Bay, I’ve noticed the lack of Caribbean patties here. I missed them. So you can understand my excitement when I found Tasty Tings, a one-woman pop-up run by Bayview born-and-raised Alyssa Magdaluyo, who was vending the Jamaican baked goods on a sidewalk in Oakland. I immediately stopped what I was doing, crossed the street and ordered a few to take home to my wife, who misses Jamaican beef patties even more than I do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926981\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg\" alt=\"The owner of Tasty Tings poses in front of a sign for her Jamaican food pop up.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-800x795.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1020x1014.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-768x763.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1536x1526.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alyssa Magdaluyo poses at a food pop-up event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tasty Tings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Magdaluyo, who is a mix of Jamaican, Filipina, Chinese and Creole heritages, uses her food as a way to console herself and others. “I love eating,” she says. “But also I love being able to feed. To be able to share food with others is the most comforting experience.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s what the 28-year-old had to say about her Frisco flavors — served with a dash of Caribbean fire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: You’re a full-time food hustler. How did you get into foodmaking?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alyssa Magdaluyo: \u003c/b>I just love cooking. I’m the youngest of three siblings. By the time I was born my mom was over cooking. It was always make-your-own-dinner night. The fridge was always stocked, so that was an entryway into cooking. Growing up, I’ve always wanted [to own] a bakery or restaurant or to be a food columnist, but living in San Francisco is hella expensive to eat out all the time. Cooking became a survival thing and a way to eat food I can’t afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why did you start Tasty Tings?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to hit up Jamaica, the motherland — but then COVID happened. I hit up the Philippines before that though. I also visited New Orleans since I’m Creole. Since I couldn’t go to Jamaica, I started experimenting more with patties, and I put it on social media. People just wanted to keep eating my food. This is my third official year since shelter in place. Every year I’m just surprised. I think I’ll have to get a job serving again, but my people and my community have always held me and supported me. Like damn, I make really good food, and I hold it to the standards of any job I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell us about the Jamaican-style patties you serve.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s like an empanada. I do a lentil one — lentils stewed in coconut cream and garlic. You can tell I’m Filipino because of all the garlic (laughs). I love the mushroom, too. It’s spicy jerk mushroom and bell peppers. Sometimes I be making it a little too spicy ‘cause the marinade gets absorbed into the dough (laughs). The beef and cheese are really popular. I like cheese, so I’m always trying to add more cheese. The shrimp one is really fire — jerk shrimp with cheese. It has caramelized leeks and bell peppers. And curry chicken was my other favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year I try to do another [flavor] and perfect it. I usually do a sweet one for fun — coconut condensed milk and bananas. I wanna do a plantain one, a spicy one. But it would be hella dense. I’m trying to mix it up this year. October is Filipino Heritage Month, and I do try to do Filipino flavors, like longaniza. It’s longaniza pork in spicy papaya salad with an egg. It’s difficult putting that together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926977\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13926977\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"A Jamaican beef patty on a wooden table\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A classic Jamaican beef patty from Tasty Tings. \u003ccite>(Elliott Alexander)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your process for making a batch of patties?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a prep station at my house. It’s in my living room. It’s all super small-batch. I can probably yield 150 max. I usually just get everything from the store — Mandela or Berkeley Bowl, they have all those special seasonings. I used the smoked salt for the chicken and the jerk because it gives it that flavor since I can’t barbecue mushrooms. Jerk is like Jamaican-style barbecue, basically. I’m trying to infuse those flavors without actually grilling. I just be going crazy looking at patties after that (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You proudly grew up in San Francisco. How does that influence your approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I went to school in Pac Heights, and all my classmates were Chinese. And I lived in Bayview where all my neighbors were Black. They each saw me as the other. I just rolled with it. I lived on a hill, right in the middle, so I just created a balance. Took what I liked and kept it pushing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being from the city and watching it change all the time, especially from living in Bayview, you see it all change, and it’s disheartening. Police corruption, community issues. I like to walk down 24th Street to remember I live here, I’m from here. That’s a mental health walk for me. I’m so grateful. SF breaks my heart so much, but I still love it. It’s like a relationship. I ride so hard for being on this land, but it’s disheartening when it doesn’t want to push you forward also.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You often collaborate with local artists, including \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910221/family-not-a-group-san-francisco-rap\">\u003cb>Family Not A Group\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, the San Francisco collective. What’s your connection to them?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I fucking love FNG. Shout out to all 17 of y’all. I honestly have a personal relationship with everyone in FNG. Just from being raised in this city. The artist hub [in San Francisco] is so small. It makes sense for us to use our platforms to help each other. I wouldn’t be where I’m at without having the support of my community. It’s a beautiful space to be a part of. I’ve known \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thejenset/?hl=en\">DJ Jenset\u003c/a> since we were 15. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/everybodylovezmike/\">Mike Evans\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baghead.fng/\">Baghead\u003c/a> I knew from when we were in the Mario Woods Coalition together. I love being around them. Seeing them all together is even better because we’ve shared experiences together. FNG reminds me that we exist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/justice4mariowoodscoalition/\">\u003cb>Mario Woods Coalition\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a grip of people combating police brutality. We had meetings and set up protest dates. Being in that space helped me. I didn’t really have a group of friends in my community until I went to those meetings. Thank god I wasn’t the only one worrying about this. I was happy I found a safe space where we were trying to do something about it and not just being terrorized.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s one thing about San Francisco you think outsiders might not understand?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s pushed out so many people. [But] the community is what makes it beautiful. It’s not Lands End hype. [That’s] so fake. This isn’t what people are here for. They want the art, the music, the community leaders, the muralists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I honestly got evicted out of my family home five years ago, and I came to Oakland. I didn’t think I would enjoy it… well that’s not true. I just love my home [in SF]. But I’ve learned about a new community, and Oakland holds it down. I’m eternally grateful to stay in the Bay. But I love my home and being able to feed you guys and go to all these cool shows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you have any favorite beef patty hideouts in the Bay Area besides your own?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I honestly haven’t had many beef patties in the Bay. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/peachespatties/?hl=en\">Peaches Patties\u003c/a> — she was at Outside Lands. Those are freakin’ good. I honestly went to New York and did some research and development (laughs). There’s this one in New York, I wish i could tell you where it was, a Senegalese spot; they make these curry goat patties. So good. But I’m not handling goat. That’s just next level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the realities of operating a pop-up food business in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just trying to find a balance between handling and saving my mental health and physical health and not burning out — having better boundaries. I can’t overextend myself and make 250 patties to sell out. I’m staying in my lane of 100 to 50 small-batch [so I can] have a real connection with the people I’m vending to rather than having only a transactional moment. I didn’t start it for that. This was a passion project to share comfort with friends and my community [during the pandemic], and it extended to a lot of people who needed food vendors. I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tasty_tings/\">\u003ci>Tasty Tings\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram for announcements on pop-up events and locations around the Bay Area. Catering is also available; send inquiries to \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"mailto:tastytings@gmail.com\">\u003ci>tastytings@gmail.com\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Miss Ollie’s Will Reopen as a Takeout Window in Uptown Oakland",
"headTitle": "Miss Ollie’s Will Reopen as a Takeout Window in Uptown Oakland | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On its last day of business, longtime customers lined up outside Miss Ollie’s to put in one last order of Bajan-style fried chicken, drink one final rum punch and pay their respects to a restaurant that has been a haven for Afro-Caribbean food lovers in Oakland for the past 10 years—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">especially for the city’s Black, brown and queer communities\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Thankfully, chef-owner Sarah Kirnon made it clear that this wouldn’t be the end of the road for Miss Ollie’s. Though it has been less than a week since she \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CcT1R1BoHn4/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">finished clearing out\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> the old dining room, Kirnon is already moving on to the next iteration of her business: a takeout window that’ll be run out of a commissary kitchen in Uptown Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once the lease is finalized, Kirnon will announce the exact location, but she says it’s already a “done deal.” The as-yet-unnamed outpost won’t be called Miss Ollie’s—for now, Kirnon is reserving that name for the catering component of her business. But starting in June, the new takeout spot will serve a short, rotating menu of Miss Ollie’s favorites on a to-go basis. Which means devotees of Kirnon’s oxtails and fried chicken will still have a place where they can go to satisfy their craving.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People still want Miss Ollie’s in their homes,” Kirnon says. “It’s hard to lay her to rest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13912155\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13912155\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Woman in a face mask takes an order from customers at the bar counter of a restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Sarah Kirnon takes an order at her Old Oakland restaurant Miss Ollie’s a few weeks before it closed. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Reached by phone while on vacation in Barbados, Kirnon says one of the lessons she took away from the pandemic is that the sit-down restaurant model in the U.S. is fundamentally broken. She now wants to shift toward “micro spaces” that offer a more sustainable business model. The new takeout spot won’t have dine-in service at all, though it will set up some tables outside on weekends. It’ll open at 11am each morning and close whenever everything sells out. And the menu will be simple and concise—just a daily special plus one or two additional staples. The idea is for customers to be able to swing by on a certain day of the week for saltfish and ackee, and a different day if they want to snag a bucket of fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“What we did for the last 10 years, these are the top dishes that worked for us, and we’re going to showcase them on a daily basis,” Kirnon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For customers who do want more of the intimate, communal experience that Miss Ollie’s used to provide in Old Oakland, Kirnon plans on hosting a chef’s table once a month. For that one night only, the restaurant will open for in-person dining, and Kirnon will put together a tasting menu of, as she puts it, all the “weird Caribbean food” that she was never able to offer on a regular basis—dishes like the sea urchin and Dungeness crab porridge she used to serve when Miss Ollie’s first opened. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910462\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Sarah Kirnon holds a plate of Caribbean patties.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new coffee shop would provide a showcase for Miss Ollie’s popular Caribbean patties. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As challenging as the past three years have been, Kirnon expects the new takeout window to be a big success. There was such an outpouring of support in the weeks after she announced that the restaurant would be closing, Kirnon says, that she already has six big catering gigs lined up. And she feels ready now to explore new ways of creating community that aren’t your traditional full-service restaurant.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of those new ventures will be a Caribbean patty and coffee shop that she hopes to open in downtown Oakland, not far from the old Miss Ollie’s location. (She has signed a letter of intent on a space and is now waiting for a response.) The idea, Kirnon says, will be to provide a showcase for her popular Caribbean patties. She’ll also sell her Creole doughnuts and coffee sourced from a company in Haiti—just drip coffee with condensed milk, Kirnon says. (“We’re not trying to do lattes.”) And there will be Caribbean drinks—sorrel, sea moss, tamarind juice and ginger beer—made and bottled at the Uptown commissary kitchen.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13910410,arts_13904416']The cafe will also offer a selection of the kinds of traditional Caribbean sweet cakes and other sweets that Kirnon’s great-grandmother and grandmother (the original “Miss Ollie”) used to make in Barbados: dense coconut bread sweetened with brown sugar; black cake marinated in rum and molasses to be served during Christmastime; and conkies, a tamale-like steamed sweet made with pumpkin, cassava, yucca and sweet potato.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both locations will also sell bottles of Kirnon’s fiery pepper sauce and the green Bajan “seasoning” she uses for her fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kirnon says the cafe could be ready to open as early as later this summer if she’s able to secure a space for it. But the takeout window should be ready to start slinging fried chicken and oxtails by the beginning of June.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’ll throw a big party for Juneteenth,” Kirnon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For updates on both the cafe and takeout window openings, follow Miss Ollie’s on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/missolliesoakland/\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On its last day of business, longtime customers lined up outside Miss Ollie’s to put in one last order of Bajan-style fried chicken, drink one final rum punch and pay their respects to a restaurant that has been a haven for Afro-Caribbean food lovers in Oakland for the past 10 years—\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">especially for the city’s Black, brown and queer communities\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Thankfully, chef-owner Sarah Kirnon made it clear that this wouldn’t be the end of the road for Miss Ollie’s. Though it has been less than a week since she \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CcT1R1BoHn4/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">finished clearing out\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> the old dining room, Kirnon is already moving on to the next iteration of her business: a takeout window that’ll be run out of a commissary kitchen in Uptown Oakland. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Once the lease is finalized, Kirnon will announce the exact location, but she says it’s already a “done deal.” The as-yet-unnamed outpost won’t be called Miss Ollie’s—for now, Kirnon is reserving that name for the catering component of her business. But starting in June, the new takeout spot will serve a short, rotating menu of Miss Ollie’s favorites on a to-go basis. Which means devotees of Kirnon’s oxtails and fried chicken will still have a place where they can go to satisfy their craving.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People still want Miss Ollie’s in their homes,” Kirnon says. “It’s hard to lay her to rest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13912155\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13912155\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Woman in a face mask takes an order from customers at the bar counter of a restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/04/004_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Sarah Kirnon takes an order at her Old Oakland restaurant Miss Ollie’s a few weeks before it closed. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Reached by phone while on vacation in Barbados, Kirnon says one of the lessons she took away from the pandemic is that the sit-down restaurant model in the U.S. is fundamentally broken. She now wants to shift toward “micro spaces” that offer a more sustainable business model. The new takeout spot won’t have dine-in service at all, though it will set up some tables outside on weekends. It’ll open at 11am each morning and close whenever everything sells out. And the menu will be simple and concise—just a daily special plus one or two additional staples. The idea is for customers to be able to swing by on a certain day of the week for saltfish and ackee, and a different day if they want to snag a bucket of fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“What we did for the last 10 years, these are the top dishes that worked for us, and we’re going to showcase them on a daily basis,” Kirnon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For customers who do want more of the intimate, communal experience that Miss Ollie’s used to provide in Old Oakland, Kirnon plans on hosting a chef’s table once a month. For that one night only, the restaurant will open for in-person dining, and Kirnon will put together a tasting menu of, as she puts it, all the “weird Caribbean food” that she was never able to offer on a regular basis—dishes like the sea urchin and Dungeness crab porridge she used to serve when Miss Ollie’s first opened. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910462\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Sarah Kirnon holds a plate of Caribbean patties.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A new coffee shop would provide a showcase for Miss Ollie’s popular Caribbean patties. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As challenging as the past three years have been, Kirnon expects the new takeout window to be a big success. There was such an outpouring of support in the weeks after she announced that the restaurant would be closing, Kirnon says, that she already has six big catering gigs lined up. And she feels ready now to explore new ways of creating community that aren’t your traditional full-service restaurant.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One of those new ventures will be a Caribbean patty and coffee shop that she hopes to open in downtown Oakland, not far from the old Miss Ollie’s location. (She has signed a letter of intent on a space and is now waiting for a response.) The idea, Kirnon says, will be to provide a showcase for her popular Caribbean patties. She’ll also sell her Creole doughnuts and coffee sourced from a company in Haiti—just drip coffee with condensed milk, Kirnon says. (“We’re not trying to do lattes.”) And there will be Caribbean drinks—sorrel, sea moss, tamarind juice and ginger beer—made and bottled at the Uptown commissary kitchen.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The cafe will also offer a selection of the kinds of traditional Caribbean sweet cakes and other sweets that Kirnon’s great-grandmother and grandmother (the original “Miss Ollie”) used to make in Barbados: dense coconut bread sweetened with brown sugar; black cake marinated in rum and molasses to be served during Christmastime; and conkies, a tamale-like steamed sweet made with pumpkin, cassava, yucca and sweet potato.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both locations will also sell bottles of Kirnon’s fiery pepper sauce and the green Bajan “seasoning” she uses for her fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kirnon says the cafe could be ready to open as early as later this summer if she’s able to secure a space for it. But the takeout window should be ready to start slinging fried chicken and oxtails by the beginning of June.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’ll throw a big party for Juneteenth,” Kirnon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For updates on both the cafe and takeout window openings, follow Miss Ollie’s on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/missolliesoakland/\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Miss Ollie's Closes: The End of an Era for Oakland's Black and Brown Communities",
"headTitle": "Miss Ollie’s Closes: The End of an Era for Oakland’s Black and Brown Communities | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past 10 years, Miss Ollie’s has been a fixture in Oakland’s celebrated restaurant scene—a delicious beacon of fiery pepper sauce, pholourie and the best damn skillet-fried chicken in all the land. Even more than that, the restaurant has been a vital gathering place for Oakland’s Black, brown and queer communities. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, much to the sadness of longtime customers, the beloved Afro-Caribbean spot will close, serving its last rum cocktail and its final plate of fried chicken out of 901 Washington St. at the end of this month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The news shouldn’t come as a complete shock: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/22179428/oakland-restaurant-miss-ollies-turning-into-nonprofit-sanctuary\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A little over a year ago\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, chef and owner Sarah Kirnon announced her intention to close the restaurant with an eye toward transforming it into a nonprofit called Sanctuary, which would host sprawling outdoor events centered on Oakland’s Black and brown communities—a kind of cross between a food festival, an art gallery and the longstanding Caribbean tradition of Carnival. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kirnon wound up working out an arrangement with her landlord that enabled the restaurant to stay open for another year. In the end, Kirnon says, the economics of trying to keep a restaurant alive during the pandemic took too much of a toll—and that, really, even pre-COVID, the numbers had not been adding up for quite some time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Bars are doing well because people like to drink and forget. Restaurants are for joy and celebration. We’ve not had much of that lately.” Kirnon says. “We don’t see it as a sadness. For us, it’s a smart move to make.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With that in mind, Kirnon stresses that Miss Ollie’s will, in fact, live on in some form, likely as a small takeout window and catering operation based out of a to-be-determined new location in Oakland. And the nonprofit project is still very much in the works. But the physical restaurant that customers have come to know and love over the past 10 years will cease to exist.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Wearing a face mask, chef Sarah Kirnon holds a plate of fried chicken at Miss Ollie's, her Old Oakland restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Sarah Kirnon’s most famous dish is her skillet-fried chicken, a staple at her restaurant Miss Ollie’s, in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The decision marks the end of a chapter for a restaurant that was, very quietly, one of the most exciting places to eat in the entire Bay Area. Along with neighbors such as Cosecha, Miss Ollie’s helped revitalize Swan’s Market, turning Old Oakland into one of the Bay Area’s most dynamic, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904416/old-oakland-block-party-international-food-swans-market\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">most international\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, dining districts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>End of a Golden Age\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, Miss Ollie’s departure also marks the end of a very specific golden age for restaurants in Oakland. The late 2000s and early 2010s were when Oakland first came to national prominence as a notable food city—when publications like the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">started parachuting writers into Temescal and Piedmont Avenue to \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/03/travel/03hours.html\">document the burgeoning scene\u003c/a>. What struck me at the time was that the buzziest restaurants all seemed to be helmed by folks of color—women of color, in particular. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910459\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910459\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Customers look at the menu at the bar counter; the sign for "Miss Ollie's" is visible in the mirror's reflection..\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In its prime, the dining room at Miss Ollie’s was packed every night—in particular with the Bay Area’s Black, brown and queer communities. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/sarah-kirnons-revolutionary-new-restaurant-in-old-oakland-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born at the start of this era\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Miss Ollie’s was \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/ten-quintessential-oakland-restaurants-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">quintessential Oakland restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—the kind of place I would bring out-of-town visitors to when I wanted to show off the city. As I wrote in 2015, restaurants like Miss Ollie’s “crackled with electricity even on a random weeknight,” had food that was delicious enough to stop you in your tracks, and were reasonably affordable to boot. They were run by charismatic chefs who were cooking food that was deeply personal, reflecting the cultures that shaped their identities—Afro-Caribbean, Mexican, Korean, Lao. And, perhaps most striking, their dining rooms were some of the most diverse I’ve ever encountered.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It was Oakland at its finest,” Kirnon says. “Black and brown, people of color, queer folks, elders—we were cross-generational. And I’ve seen kids go off to college. We’ve done funerals. We were a neighborhood restaurant.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One by one, however, the restaurants I associate with that era have mostly all closed, many of them even before the pandemic hit. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/01/11/brown-sugar-kitchen-tanya-holland-closed/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Brown Sugar Kitchen is gone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. So is Juhu Beach Club, FuseBOX (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/fusebox-serves-food-for-the-people-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">remember FuseBOX\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">?) and the original Hawker Fare. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910458\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"A shrine with black-and-white photos of chef Sarah Kirnon's grandmother, Miss Ollie, sits on a shelf.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A shrine with photos of chef Sarah Kirnon’s grandmother, Miss Ollie, is one of the restaurant’s many personal touches. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Among their many virtues, all of those restaurants were known for serving delicious, ambitious food made with high-quality ingredients, but at a lower, still-accessible price point. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“How do you survive in that mid-range place in this economy?” says Preeti Mistry, the chef and founder of Juhu Beach Club. “Those types of restaurants are becoming an endangered species.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mistry still remembers how blown away they were by Kirnon’s fried chicken the first time they ate at Miss Ollie’s—and Kirnon’s matter-of-fact response when asked what she had put in that chicken to make it taste so good: “seasoning.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Mistry, what really set the restaurant apart was how personal everything felt, from the shrine set up for Kirnon’s grandmother—the original Miss Ollie—to the brightly colored vintage enamel plateware to the food itself. A hopeful energy marked so many of the restaurants run by women of color during that era, Mistry says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910461\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"A piece of fried chicken on blue-and-white checkered paper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The secret to the fried chicken at Miss Ollie’s is “seasoning.” \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The earlier generation it was mostly cis white men and some women [who were running restaurants]. This was a whole new generation,” Mistry says. “Everyone was not staying in the lines; there was a lot of experimentation. It was a way of not giving a fuck.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Deep Soul Connection\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ellen Sebastian Chang, the co-owner and general manager of FuseBOX, a Korean fusion restaurant that opened in West Oakland a few months earlier than Miss Ollie’s, says the thing that always struck her about Kirnon’s food was the “deep soul connection” that you felt when you were eating it. You could tell, Sebastian Chang says, that the food had been cooked with soul—that someone had put their “life force” into it, that sense of\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“if I don’t do it right, the ancestors in my family are going to haunt me in my dreams.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sebastian Chang struck up a friendship with Kirnon, and she remembers that when FuseBOX closed, Kirnon bought up all of the remaining house-made pickles that the restaurant had in stock and featured them in a special menu that she put together for Miss Ollie’s. “To me, that really speaks to respectful relationships,” Sebastian Chang says. “I see you. You see me. We’re not competing. We’re actually a long-distance collaboration.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Somehow, despite how much of a community fixture the restaurant became, Miss Ollie’s always felt a little bit underrated, even in its prime. Kirnon wasn’t feted with national awards the way that some of her peers in Oakland were. And local food media rarely credited the place for being what it was: one of the very best restaurants in the Bay Area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910462\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Sarah Kirnon holds a plate of Caribbean patties.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caribbean beef patties were one of the many Afro-Caribbean dishes served at Miss Ollie’s that were hard to find elsewhere in the Bay Area. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vinny Eng recalls that he met Kirnon when he was the wine director for Bar Tartine and she was the chef at Front Porch, on the other side of the Mission. According to Eng, what Kirnon doesn’t get enough credit for is how much of a mentor she has been to the chefs who worked in her kitchen and then went on further successes—what he calls a “quiet lineage of cooks” that she has trained. Miss Ollie’s was one of a relatively small number of kitchens that felt like they were safe havens for young, queer Black and brown chefs, in particular. And that sense of safety and community extended to the rest of the restaurant.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904416,arts_13895067']“Community activists and community organizers were always in that space,” Eng says. “More than just functioning as a place where people ate, this was a place where people \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">convened\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Filling the Void\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As time went on, however, Kirnon says demographic changes within Oakland wound up taking the restaurant’s core communities away even as the city became oversaturated with restaurants. “We lost lots of Black and brown people who moved out of the Bay Area,” she says, noting how a number of her longtime customers might only visit once every couple of months now because they had to move to Stockton or Sacramento. “We were really responding to a particular crowd of folks. And it feels like that doesn’t exist anymore.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What Kirnon fears is that the departure of Miss Ollie’s brick-and-mortar space will leave even more of a gap in the community of places where Black and brown folks can congregate. What, then, can she do, other than try to create something new to fill the void?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910463\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Two customers sit at a wooden table outside of Miss Ollie's in Old Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wesley and Antoinettemarie Williams made sure to eat at Miss Ollie’s while visiting from out of state. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the idea behind the nonprofit Sanctuary, which Kirnon says she’s hoping to move into a temporary location in Oakland. Initially, she hopes to run it as a kind of food hub, not entirely dissimilar to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895067/la-cocina-municipal-marketplace-food-hall-opening-tenderloin\">La Cocina’s Marketplace\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin, where multiple vendors will be able to host pop-ups and build new food businesses. It will function as a sort of “think tank,” Kirnon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And for those who will specifically miss the food at Miss Ollie’s, there’s some good news as well. Kirnon says she’s in the process of finding a new location in Oakland to house Miss Ollie’s, not as a proper restaurant, but at least as a takeout window where people can pick up food, order delivery via apps and get food catered for their companies or events.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the original Miss Ollie’s, the restaurant will host a number of farewell events in the coming weeks—keep an eye on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/missolliesoakland/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">their Instagram\u003c/a>. While the current plan is to stay open until the end of the month, Kirnon says longtime customers should come by in the next week or two the ensure a chance to say their final goodbyes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Opening in the early 2010s, Miss Ollie's quickly became a landmark for a golden age of restaurants in Oakland.",
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"description": "Opening in the early 2010s, Miss Ollie's quickly became a landmark for a golden age of restaurants in Oakland.",
"title": "Miss Ollie's Closes: The End of an Era for Oakland's Black and Brown Communities | KQED",
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"headline": "Miss Ollie's Closes: The End of an Era for Oakland's Black and Brown Communities",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past 10 years, Miss Ollie’s has been a fixture in Oakland’s celebrated restaurant scene—a delicious beacon of fiery pepper sauce, pholourie and the best damn skillet-fried chicken in all the land. Even more than that, the restaurant has been a vital gathering place for Oakland’s Black, brown and queer communities. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, much to the sadness of longtime customers, the beloved Afro-Caribbean spot will close, serving its last rum cocktail and its final plate of fried chicken out of 901 Washington St. at the end of this month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The news shouldn’t come as a complete shock: \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/22179428/oakland-restaurant-miss-ollies-turning-into-nonprofit-sanctuary\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A little over a year ago\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, chef and owner Sarah Kirnon announced her intention to close the restaurant with an eye toward transforming it into a nonprofit called Sanctuary, which would host sprawling outdoor events centered on Oakland’s Black and brown communities—a kind of cross between a food festival, an art gallery and the longstanding Caribbean tradition of Carnival. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kirnon wound up working out an arrangement with her landlord that enabled the restaurant to stay open for another year. In the end, Kirnon says, the economics of trying to keep a restaurant alive during the pandemic took too much of a toll—and that, really, even pre-COVID, the numbers had not been adding up for quite some time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Bars are doing well because people like to drink and forget. Restaurants are for joy and celebration. We’ve not had much of that lately.” Kirnon says. “We don’t see it as a sadness. For us, it’s a smart move to make.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With that in mind, Kirnon stresses that Miss Ollie’s will, in fact, live on in some form, likely as a small takeout window and catering operation based out of a to-be-determined new location in Oakland. And the nonprofit project is still very much in the works. But the physical restaurant that customers have come to know and love over the past 10 years will cease to exist.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910460\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Wearing a face mask, chef Sarah Kirnon holds a plate of fried chicken at Miss Ollie's, her Old Oakland restaurant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/015_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Sarah Kirnon’s most famous dish is her skillet-fried chicken, a staple at her restaurant Miss Ollie’s, in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The decision marks the end of a chapter for a restaurant that was, very quietly, one of the most exciting places to eat in the entire Bay Area. Along with neighbors such as Cosecha, Miss Ollie’s helped revitalize Swan’s Market, turning Old Oakland into one of the Bay Area’s most dynamic, and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904416/old-oakland-block-party-international-food-swans-market\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">most international\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, dining districts. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>End of a Golden Age\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In many ways, Miss Ollie’s departure also marks the end of a very specific golden age for restaurants in Oakland. The late 2000s and early 2010s were when Oakland first came to national prominence as a notable food city—when publications like the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">New York Times \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">started parachuting writers into Temescal and Piedmont Avenue to \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/03/travel/03hours.html\">document the burgeoning scene\u003c/a>. What struck me at the time was that the buzziest restaurants all seemed to be helmed by folks of color—women of color, in particular. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910459\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910459\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Customers look at the menu at the bar counter; the sign for "Miss Ollie's" is visible in the mirror's reflection..\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/005_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In its prime, the dining room at Miss Ollie’s was packed every night—in particular with the Bay Area’s Black, brown and queer communities. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/sarah-kirnons-revolutionary-new-restaurant-in-old-oakland-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born at the start of this era\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Miss Ollie’s was \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/ten-quintessential-oakland-restaurants-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">quintessential Oakland restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—the kind of place I would bring out-of-town visitors to when I wanted to show off the city. As I wrote in 2015, restaurants like Miss Ollie’s “crackled with electricity even on a random weeknight,” had food that was delicious enough to stop you in your tracks, and were reasonably affordable to boot. They were run by charismatic chefs who were cooking food that was deeply personal, reflecting the cultures that shaped their identities—Afro-Caribbean, Mexican, Korean, Lao. And, perhaps most striking, their dining rooms were some of the most diverse I’ve ever encountered.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It was Oakland at its finest,” Kirnon says. “Black and brown, people of color, queer folks, elders—we were cross-generational. And I’ve seen kids go off to college. We’ve done funerals. We were a neighborhood restaurant.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">One by one, however, the restaurants I associate with that era have mostly all closed, many of them even before the pandemic hit. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/01/11/brown-sugar-kitchen-tanya-holland-closed/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Brown Sugar Kitchen is gone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. So is Juhu Beach Club, FuseBOX (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/fusebox-serves-food-for-the-people-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">remember FuseBOX\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">?) and the original Hawker Fare. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910458\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"A shrine with black-and-white photos of chef Sarah Kirnon's grandmother, Miss Ollie, sits on a shelf.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/001_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A shrine with photos of chef Sarah Kirnon’s grandmother, Miss Ollie, is one of the restaurant’s many personal touches. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Among their many virtues, all of those restaurants were known for serving delicious, ambitious food made with high-quality ingredients, but at a lower, still-accessible price point. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“How do you survive in that mid-range place in this economy?” says Preeti Mistry, the chef and founder of Juhu Beach Club. “Those types of restaurants are becoming an endangered species.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mistry still remembers how blown away they were by Kirnon’s fried chicken the first time they ate at Miss Ollie’s—and Kirnon’s matter-of-fact response when asked what she had put in that chicken to make it taste so good: “seasoning.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Mistry, what really set the restaurant apart was how personal everything felt, from the shrine set up for Kirnon’s grandmother—the original Miss Ollie—to the brightly colored vintage enamel plateware to the food itself. A hopeful energy marked so many of the restaurants run by women of color during that era, Mistry says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910461\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"A piece of fried chicken on blue-and-white checkered paper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/016_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The secret to the fried chicken at Miss Ollie’s is “seasoning.” \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The earlier generation it was mostly cis white men and some women [who were running restaurants]. This was a whole new generation,” Mistry says. “Everyone was not staying in the lines; there was a lot of experimentation. It was a way of not giving a fuck.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Deep Soul Connection\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ellen Sebastian Chang, the co-owner and general manager of FuseBOX, a Korean fusion restaurant that opened in West Oakland a few months earlier than Miss Ollie’s, says the thing that always struck her about Kirnon’s food was the “deep soul connection” that you felt when you were eating it. You could tell, Sebastian Chang says, that the food had been cooked with soul—that someone had put their “life force” into it, that sense of\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“if I don’t do it right, the ancestors in my family are going to haunt me in my dreams.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sebastian Chang struck up a friendship with Kirnon, and she remembers that when FuseBOX closed, Kirnon bought up all of the remaining house-made pickles that the restaurant had in stock and featured them in a special menu that she put together for Miss Ollie’s. “To me, that really speaks to respectful relationships,” Sebastian Chang says. “I see you. You see me. We’re not competing. We’re actually a long-distance collaboration.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Somehow, despite how much of a community fixture the restaurant became, Miss Ollie’s always felt a little bit underrated, even in its prime. Kirnon wasn’t feted with national awards the way that some of her peers in Oakland were. And local food media rarely credited the place for being what it was: one of the very best restaurants in the Bay Area.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910462\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Sarah Kirnon holds a plate of Caribbean patties.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/002_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caribbean beef patties were one of the many Afro-Caribbean dishes served at Miss Ollie’s that were hard to find elsewhere in the Bay Area. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vinny Eng recalls that he met Kirnon when he was the wine director for Bar Tartine and she was the chef at Front Porch, on the other side of the Mission. According to Eng, what Kirnon doesn’t get enough credit for is how much of a mentor she has been to the chefs who worked in her kitchen and then went on further successes—what he calls a “quiet lineage of cooks” that she has trained. Miss Ollie’s was one of a relatively small number of kitchens that felt like they were safe havens for young, queer Black and brown chefs, in particular. And that sense of safety and community extended to the rest of the restaurant.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“Community activists and community organizers were always in that space,” Eng says. “More than just functioning as a place where people ate, this was a place where people \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">convened\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Filling the Void\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As time went on, however, Kirnon says demographic changes within Oakland wound up taking the restaurant’s core communities away even as the city became oversaturated with restaurants. “We lost lots of Black and brown people who moved out of the Bay Area,” she says, noting how a number of her longtime customers might only visit once every couple of months now because they had to move to Stockton or Sacramento. “We were really responding to a particular crowd of folks. And it feels like that doesn’t exist anymore.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What Kirnon fears is that the departure of Miss Ollie’s brick-and-mortar space will leave even more of a gap in the community of places where Black and brown folks can congregate. What, then, can she do, other than try to create something new to fill the void?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13910463\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13910463\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg\" alt=\"Two customers sit at a wooden table outside of Miss Ollie's in Old Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/03/013_KQEDArts_MissOllies_03042022-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wesley and Antoinettemarie Williams made sure to eat at Miss Ollie’s while visiting from out of state. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s the idea behind the nonprofit Sanctuary, which Kirnon says she’s hoping to move into a temporary location in Oakland. Initially, she hopes to run it as a kind of food hub, not entirely dissimilar to \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13895067/la-cocina-municipal-marketplace-food-hall-opening-tenderloin\">La Cocina’s Marketplace\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin, where multiple vendors will be able to host pop-ups and build new food businesses. It will function as a sort of “think tank,” Kirnon says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And for those who will specifically miss the food at Miss Ollie’s, there’s some good news as well. Kirnon says she’s in the process of finding a new location in Oakland to house Miss Ollie’s, not as a proper restaurant, but at least as a takeout window where people can pick up food, order delivery via apps and get food catered for their companies or events.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the original Miss Ollie’s, the restaurant will host a number of farewell events in the coming weeks—keep an eye on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/missolliesoakland/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">their Instagram\u003c/a>. While the current plan is to stay open until the end of the month, Kirnon says longtime customers should come by in the next week or two the ensure a chance to say their final goodbyes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/Reveal-p679597/",
"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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