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"title": "Acorns Aren’t the Only Thing Korean and Ohlone Elders Have in Common",
"headTitle": "Acorns Aren’t the Only Thing Korean and Ohlone Elders Have in Common | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]O[/dropcap]n a crisp Friday afternoon in November, an intimate group of community elders gathered at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/cafe-ohlone\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/a> for a multi-course outdoor feast made with ingredients native to Northern California: acorn flour and fernbrake, pickleweed and sweet huckleberries. Founders Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino greeted the group in the Ohlone Chochenyo language, and as the dappled Berkeley sunlight gave way to evening, they spoke of how important it was for colonized peoples to keep their cultures alive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many ways, it was a typical dinner service at the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13912976/cafe-ohlone-hearst-museum-opening-singing-trees\">only dedicated Ohlone restaurant\u003c/a>, except for one notable difference: Nearly all of the diners in attendance were Korean elders, many of them monolingual. They had come to Cafe Ohlone to break bread with Ohlone neighbors they had met for the first time that day — to savor both the Korean \u003ci>and\u003c/i> Ohlone ways of preparing shared cultural ingredients such as acorn, and to hear and share stories that showed the many points of commonality between their two communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We both value respect for our elders, making sure that they’re taken care of and loved, and that their wisdom is carried on into the future,” Medina said in his introductory remarks. “Our peoples have also survived hard times, and so we always keep our cultures close.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930528\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930528\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088.jpg\" alt=\"Two indigenous Ohlone men address a group of elderly Koreans while a female Korean translator looks on from the side. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medina (right) spoke of the many points of connection between the Korean and Ohlone cultures, including a respect for elders and resilience in the face of hardship. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The “story sharing supper” was a collaboration between Cafe Ohlone and a Korean American community organization called \u003ca href=\"https://www.ssiyagi.com/\">Ssi Ya Gi\u003c/a> (pronounced “shee-ya-ghee,” meaning “Seed Story” in Korean), whose members are based in Los Angeles and the Bay Area. It was the second in-person event of its kind — and the first in the Bay Area — for a group born out of the heightened sense of isolation that many homebound, elderly Korean immigrants experienced during the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hannah Pae, a Los Angeles-based landscape designer who co-founded Ssi Ya Gi in 2021, recalls how her own grandmother was living at a nursing home when the first wave of COVID hit the United States. “During lockdown, when my family could not visit her, her health deteriorated. She wasn’t eating Korean food; people in the nursing home couldn’t speak Korean,” Pae says. “It was just heartbreaking to feel so helpless and see her health decline so rapidly because of the isolation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930531\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930531\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115.jpg\" alt=\"On a dining table, a boat-shaped paper tray of Korean acorn jellies molded into the shape of actual acorns. Decorative lemons and walnuts in their shell form a centerpiece for the table.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Acorn was served two ways: traditional Ohlone chilled acorn soup and, pictured here, Korean acorn jellies topped with soy sauce and scallions. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pae’s grandmother wound up passing away not long after the start of the pandemic. Driven by that painful experience, Pae started talking to Hyunch Sung, a landscape design colleague based in the East Bay, about putting together a project that would allow young Korean Americans to forge a “human-to-human connection” with seniors in their community to help alleviate some of that isolation. Eventually, the two of them teamed up a handful of other like-minded folks: plant designer Ginny Hwang, Yoon Ju Ellie Lee of the diasporic Korean arts collective \u003ca href=\"https://gyopo.us/\">GYOPO\u003c/a>, and community nonprofit consultant Grace Jiyun Lee, who’d spent those early months of the pandemic organizing hot meal deliveries for Korean elders through San Francisco’s Korean American Community Foundation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We knew we wanted to connect over food and plants,” Lee says. “We wanted to do this for our seniors but also for ourselves — as a learning for us and also [to share] information that would otherwise be lost with other interested community members.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930530\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930530\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031.jpg\" alt=\"A group of Korean elders seated at an outdoor wooden table toast each other with cups of makgeolli, a type of Korean rice alcohol.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Korean seniors toasted each other with cups of makgeolli, a milky-white rice liquor that’s traditional to Korea. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Power of a Zine\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>What they came up with was a sort of cultural memory program that checked all of those boxes. First, Ssi Ya Gi volunteers would conduct extensive interviews with Korean elders about their food memories, as well as their lives at large. The interviews themselves — the act of \u003ci>really \u003c/i>listening to an elder’s story — helped provide some of the human connection that so many homebound seniors were missing during the pandemic. And because food is such an integral part of Korean culture, Ssi Yagi’s founders all agreed that it would make the perfect interview topic, providing a way to bridge language barriers and intergenerational barriers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13899524,arts_13911528']\u003c/span>“We were thinking a lot about plants and food sustenance and the fact that historically, before the Industrial Revolution, Korea was a very agrarian country,” Lee explains. “So our seniors would have interesting stories about foods that they had in their childhood that couldn’t be found here — plants they would forage or grow in their home gardens.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the interviews, Ssi Ya Gi would collaborate with artists to create gorgeously illustrated zines based on each of the seniors’ food stories, both in English and translated back into Korean. The zines served a dual purpose: They made for lovely, personalized gifts to give back to those elders who had shared their stories. They also document a kind of oral history that’s too often lost to time and make those stories accessible to a whole new generation — starting with the zine-collecting folks in their 20s and 30s who make up the majority of Ssi Ya Gi’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ssiyagi/?hl=en\">social media followers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930540\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930540\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012.jpg\" alt=\"A young Korean American woman looks on while an elderly Korean man in a face mask reads a zine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Myung Kwang Shik reads a zine about his own food memories — about jjajangmyeon and his family’s rice farm. Hannah Pae (left), the zine’s author and illustrator, looks on. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Pae, who wrote and illustrated four of the zines herself, the interview process was at times quite challenging, requiring a lot of “gentle digging” to get these older immigrants to open up about their past lives. “Some of our seniors, we found it to be a little bit difficult to ask them about their favorite food memory because there was so little food at that time,” she explains. For Korean immigrants who came of age during Japanese occupation, the Korean War and the war’s aftermath, the hardships were what dominated their memories of those times. In some cases, the stories they eventually shared with Ssi Ya Gi’s interviewers were things they’d never even discussed with their own family members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One senior in Los Angeles’ Koreatown talked about how, as a single mother of five, she had supported her family by working as a dairy farmer. Another recalled the shop in her coastal hometown that specialized in all different cuts of boiled whale meat. (“It tasted similar to pork belly.”) Yet another reveled in the memory of eating freshly harvested rice from his family’s rice farm. “Shiny and greasy,” as the elder described it, Korea’s original rice was, in his memory, so much more delicious than the high-yield, modern-day rice strain that was introduced in the 1970s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In total, Ssi Ya Gi has published 10 zines to date — \u003ca href=\"https://www.ssiyagi.com/portfolio-2\">all available for purchase\u003c/a> as a way to support the organization’s ongoing community work with Korean elders in both Los Angeles and the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930547\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930547\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151.jpg\" alt=\"A woman sits in front of a spread of Korean and Ohlone dishes, including a colorful salad flecked with berries and nuts, and a bowl of bright red Korean spicy beef soup.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ssi Ya Gi’s Yoon Ju Ellie Lee enjoys a spread of Ohlone and Korean dishes, including a bountiful Ohlone salad and a bowl of soul-warming Korean fernbrake soup. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>An Acorn Story\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The zines featured prominently at Ssi Ya Gi’s Cafe Ohlone dinner. Several elders whose stories had been memorialized in a zine were in attendance, and at one point, Myung Kwang Shik, the Los Angeles-based senior who’d shared the story of his family’s rice farm, stood up and proudly read a short excerpt from his zine. Mostly, Lee says, the dinner was one more way for the Ssi Ya Gi team to show their appreciation to these Korean elders who had entrusted them with their food memories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was also a part of the group’s plan to expand its work with elders to beyond just the Korean immigrant community. Ssi Ya Gi had hosted an earlier event at a community garden run by \u003ca href=\"https://www.cultivala.org/\">CultivaLA\u003c/a>, an urban agriculture nonprofit focused on providing healthy food access for the local Latinx community. The idea was to provide a forum for intercultural connection — to allow Latino and Korean elders to listen to each other’s stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930535\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930535\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170.jpg\" alt=\"A elderly Korean woman in glasses looks on with a wistful expression on her face.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Korean elders listened with rapt attention as Cafe Ohlone’s founders spoke of the connections between their two cultures. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dinner at Cafe Ohlone was a strong point of evidence for the Ssi Ya Gi story-sharing model’s power for cross-cultural communication. The collaboration came about because Terremoto, the landscape design firm where Pae and fellow Ssi Ya Gi co-founder Hyunch Sung first met, had helped design \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13912976/cafe-ohlone-hearst-museum-opening-singing-trees\">Cafe Ohlone’s new space\u003c/a> at UC Berkeley’s Hearst Museum of Anthropology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having established a relationship with Medina and Trevino, Pae and Sung were struck by how many similarities there were between the Korean and Ohlone cultures. In addition to their mutual respect for elders and having both experienced the long-lasting effects of being colonized, Koreans and Ohlones also had a surprising number of food staples in common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are so few cultures around the world who eat acorn,” Pae says. “We share acorn; we share fernbrake; we share buckwheat and mugwort. And we thought that this could be an incredible way to bridge our cultures.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930536\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930536\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181.jpg\" alt=\"Chia porridge topped with a scattering of berries and roasted hazelnuts. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For dessert, there was Ohlone-style chia porridge topped with sweet huckleberries. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To showcase those similarities, Cafe Ohlone and Ssi Ya Gi put together a feast cooked by local Korean chefs and the Cafe Ohlone team. The meal began with two different preparations of acorn: There was cold, velvety Ohlone black oak acorn soup, mild and refreshing. And then there were savory Korean acorn jellies, molded into the shape of actual acorns and topped with soy sauce, green onions and sesame seeds. [pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Hannah Pae\"]“There are so few cultures around the world who eat acorn. … And we thought that this could be an incredible way to bridge our cultures.”[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A procession of similarly abundant dishes followed. A spread of variously pickled and fermented Korean banchan to be eaten with steamed rice. A colorful Ohlone salad of watercress, pickleweed, roasted hazelnuts and at least three different kinds of berries, luxuriously dressed in walnut oil and blackberry-bay laurel coulis. And, courtesy of Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://seoulgomtang.co/\">Seoul Gom Tang\u003c/a>, bowls of hot, soul-warming yukgaejang, a Korean spicy beef soup made with fernbrake — also a typical Ohlone ingredient — cooked until impossibly tender and delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At one point, Cafe Ohlone’s Trevino demonstrated the traditional Ohlone method for removing the skin from acorns using a 100-year-old wooden basket, gently rocking it back and forth in order to toss the peeled acorns up into the air and catch them again. Though most of the Korean elders couldn’t understand what Trevino was saying until after the translator spoke, they watched with rapt attention, completely engrossed in what he was doing. Several of the older Korean ladies imitated his sifting motion, chattering excitedly among themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930533\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930533\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120.jpg\" alt=\"Man in glasses tosses acorns into the air using a small wooden basket.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cafe Ohlone’s Louis Trevino demonstrates the traditional method for winnowing acorns. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930532\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930532\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118.jpg\" alt=\"Man in glasses tosses acorns into the air using a small wooden basket.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As it turns out, the technique is nearly identical to the one used in Korea. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, one of them stood up and said, “We have that.” As it turns out, the traditional Korean method for winnowing acorns is almost entirely the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How many people could say they’ve shared in common an experience as specific as that?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ssi Ya Gi’s founders say that’s precisely the kind of intercultural connection that they hope to foster. As Lee puts it, “Even though all of us in the collective are Korean American and our focus has been on interviewing Korean seniors, the themes are universal — and the desire to create community and retain cultural memories.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930537\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930537\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192.jpg\" alt=\"An elderly Korean woman in tinted glasses smiles as she shakes hands with an Ohlone man.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joanne Selby Kim, the subject of a zine about her memories of her father’s castella cakes, shakes hands with Medina at the end of the evening. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930538\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930538\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200.jpg\" alt=\"A Korean elder whimsically wears a colorful Ohlone blanket.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As the evening cooled, the Cafe Ohlone team passed out colorful Ohlone blankets to keep their Korean guests warm. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In September, Ssi Ya Gi will continue that work by hosting a similar “listening supper” to celebrate Chuseok, the Korean harvest festival, in collaboration with the AAPI grassroots nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://www.cutfruitcollective.org/\">Cut Fruit Collective\u003c/a>. Held in Oakland Chinatown, the event will bring together two different communities of elders — Korean and Chinese. Later this winter, the group will also host another event in Los Angeles to showcase oral histories that they’re collecting from both Korean and Latinx elders centered on the gochu, or chili pepper. The focus, once again, will be on cross-cultural exchange.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in Berkeley, the landmark Korean-Ohlone dinner wound down with laughter and embraces, as the Korean seniors thanked their Ohlone hosts for the delicious, one-of-a-kind meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Come visit us again,” Cafe Ohlone’s Medina said as he leaned over to give one elderly Korean woman a hug. “We share so much in common.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930539\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930539\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238.jpg\" alt=\"A group photo features Ssi Ya Gi's staff of Korean American volunteers as well as the Ohlone co-owners of Cafe Ohlone.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Team Ssi Ya Gi + team Cafe Ohlone. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For updates on Ssi Ya Gi’s upcoming events in both Los Angeles and the Bay Area (specific dates TBD), following them on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ssiyagi/\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Ssi Ya Gi used food memories to connect with elderly Korean immigrants isolated by the pandemic.",
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"twTitle": "Acorns Aren’t the Only Thing Korean and Ohlone Elders Have in Common",
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"description": "Ssi Ya Gi used food memories to connect with elderly Korean immigrants isolated by the pandemic.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">O\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>n a crisp Friday afternoon in November, an intimate group of community elders gathered at \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/cafe-ohlone\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/a> for a multi-course outdoor feast made with ingredients native to Northern California: acorn flour and fernbrake, pickleweed and sweet huckleberries. Founders Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino greeted the group in the Ohlone Chochenyo language, and as the dappled Berkeley sunlight gave way to evening, they spoke of how important it was for colonized peoples to keep their cultures alive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In many ways, it was a typical dinner service at the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13912976/cafe-ohlone-hearst-museum-opening-singing-trees\">only dedicated Ohlone restaurant\u003c/a>, except for one notable difference: Nearly all of the diners in attendance were Korean elders, many of them monolingual. They had come to Cafe Ohlone to break bread with Ohlone neighbors they had met for the first time that day — to savor both the Korean \u003ci>and\u003c/i> Ohlone ways of preparing shared cultural ingredients such as acorn, and to hear and share stories that showed the many points of commonality between their two communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We both value respect for our elders, making sure that they’re taken care of and loved, and that their wisdom is carried on into the future,” Medina said in his introductory remarks. “Our peoples have also survived hard times, and so we always keep our cultures close.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930528\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930528\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088.jpg\" alt=\"Two indigenous Ohlone men address a group of elderly Koreans while a female Korean translator looks on from the side. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_088-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medina (right) spoke of the many points of connection between the Korean and Ohlone cultures, including a respect for elders and resilience in the face of hardship. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The “story sharing supper” was a collaboration between Cafe Ohlone and a Korean American community organization called \u003ca href=\"https://www.ssiyagi.com/\">Ssi Ya Gi\u003c/a> (pronounced “shee-ya-ghee,” meaning “Seed Story” in Korean), whose members are based in Los Angeles and the Bay Area. It was the second in-person event of its kind — and the first in the Bay Area — for a group born out of the heightened sense of isolation that many homebound, elderly Korean immigrants experienced during the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hannah Pae, a Los Angeles-based landscape designer who co-founded Ssi Ya Gi in 2021, recalls how her own grandmother was living at a nursing home when the first wave of COVID hit the United States. “During lockdown, when my family could not visit her, her health deteriorated. She wasn’t eating Korean food; people in the nursing home couldn’t speak Korean,” Pae says. “It was just heartbreaking to feel so helpless and see her health decline so rapidly because of the isolation.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930531\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930531\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115.jpg\" alt=\"On a dining table, a boat-shaped paper tray of Korean acorn jellies molded into the shape of actual acorns. Decorative lemons and walnuts in their shell form a centerpiece for the table.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_115-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Acorn was served two ways: traditional Ohlone chilled acorn soup and, pictured here, Korean acorn jellies topped with soy sauce and scallions. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pae’s grandmother wound up passing away not long after the start of the pandemic. Driven by that painful experience, Pae started talking to Hyunch Sung, a landscape design colleague based in the East Bay, about putting together a project that would allow young Korean Americans to forge a “human-to-human connection” with seniors in their community to help alleviate some of that isolation. Eventually, the two of them teamed up a handful of other like-minded folks: plant designer Ginny Hwang, Yoon Ju Ellie Lee of the diasporic Korean arts collective \u003ca href=\"https://gyopo.us/\">GYOPO\u003c/a>, and community nonprofit consultant Grace Jiyun Lee, who’d spent those early months of the pandemic organizing hot meal deliveries for Korean elders through San Francisco’s Korean American Community Foundation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We knew we wanted to connect over food and plants,” Lee says. “We wanted to do this for our seniors but also for ourselves — as a learning for us and also [to share] information that would otherwise be lost with other interested community members.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930530\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930530\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031.jpg\" alt=\"A group of Korean elders seated at an outdoor wooden table toast each other with cups of makgeolli, a type of Korean rice alcohol.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_031-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Korean seniors toasted each other with cups of makgeolli, a milky-white rice liquor that’s traditional to Korea. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Power of a Zine\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>What they came up with was a sort of cultural memory program that checked all of those boxes. First, Ssi Ya Gi volunteers would conduct extensive interviews with Korean elders about their food memories, as well as their lives at large. The interviews themselves — the act of \u003ci>really \u003c/i>listening to an elder’s story — helped provide some of the human connection that so many homebound seniors were missing during the pandemic. And because food is such an integral part of Korean culture, Ssi Yagi’s founders all agreed that it would make the perfect interview topic, providing a way to bridge language barriers and intergenerational barriers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>“We were thinking a lot about plants and food sustenance and the fact that historically, before the Industrial Revolution, Korea was a very agrarian country,” Lee explains. “So our seniors would have interesting stories about foods that they had in their childhood that couldn’t be found here — plants they would forage or grow in their home gardens.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the interviews, Ssi Ya Gi would collaborate with artists to create gorgeously illustrated zines based on each of the seniors’ food stories, both in English and translated back into Korean. The zines served a dual purpose: They made for lovely, personalized gifts to give back to those elders who had shared their stories. They also document a kind of oral history that’s too often lost to time and make those stories accessible to a whole new generation — starting with the zine-collecting folks in their 20s and 30s who make up the majority of Ssi Ya Gi’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ssiyagi/?hl=en\">social media followers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930540\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930540\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012.jpg\" alt=\"A young Korean American woman looks on while an elderly Korean man in a face mask reads a zine.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_012-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Myung Kwang Shik reads a zine about his own food memories — about jjajangmyeon and his family’s rice farm. Hannah Pae (left), the zine’s author and illustrator, looks on. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Pae, who wrote and illustrated four of the zines herself, the interview process was at times quite challenging, requiring a lot of “gentle digging” to get these older immigrants to open up about their past lives. “Some of our seniors, we found it to be a little bit difficult to ask them about their favorite food memory because there was so little food at that time,” she explains. For Korean immigrants who came of age during Japanese occupation, the Korean War and the war’s aftermath, the hardships were what dominated their memories of those times. In some cases, the stories they eventually shared with Ssi Ya Gi’s interviewers were things they’d never even discussed with their own family members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One senior in Los Angeles’ Koreatown talked about how, as a single mother of five, she had supported her family by working as a dairy farmer. Another recalled the shop in her coastal hometown that specialized in all different cuts of boiled whale meat. (“It tasted similar to pork belly.”) Yet another reveled in the memory of eating freshly harvested rice from his family’s rice farm. “Shiny and greasy,” as the elder described it, Korea’s original rice was, in his memory, so much more delicious than the high-yield, modern-day rice strain that was introduced in the 1970s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In total, Ssi Ya Gi has published 10 zines to date — \u003ca href=\"https://www.ssiyagi.com/portfolio-2\">all available for purchase\u003c/a> as a way to support the organization’s ongoing community work with Korean elders in both Los Angeles and the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930547\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930547\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151.jpg\" alt=\"A woman sits in front of a spread of Korean and Ohlone dishes, including a colorful salad flecked with berries and nuts, and a bowl of bright red Korean spicy beef soup.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_151-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ssi Ya Gi’s Yoon Ju Ellie Lee enjoys a spread of Ohlone and Korean dishes, including a bountiful Ohlone salad and a bowl of soul-warming Korean fernbrake soup. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>An Acorn Story\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The zines featured prominently at Ssi Ya Gi’s Cafe Ohlone dinner. Several elders whose stories had been memorialized in a zine were in attendance, and at one point, Myung Kwang Shik, the Los Angeles-based senior who’d shared the story of his family’s rice farm, stood up and proudly read a short excerpt from his zine. Mostly, Lee says, the dinner was one more way for the Ssi Ya Gi team to show their appreciation to these Korean elders who had entrusted them with their food memories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was also a part of the group’s plan to expand its work with elders to beyond just the Korean immigrant community. Ssi Ya Gi had hosted an earlier event at a community garden run by \u003ca href=\"https://www.cultivala.org/\">CultivaLA\u003c/a>, an urban agriculture nonprofit focused on providing healthy food access for the local Latinx community. The idea was to provide a forum for intercultural connection — to allow Latino and Korean elders to listen to each other’s stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930535\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930535\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170.jpg\" alt=\"A elderly Korean woman in glasses looks on with a wistful expression on her face.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_170-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Korean elders listened with rapt attention as Cafe Ohlone’s founders spoke of the connections between their two cultures. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dinner at Cafe Ohlone was a strong point of evidence for the Ssi Ya Gi story-sharing model’s power for cross-cultural communication. The collaboration came about because Terremoto, the landscape design firm where Pae and fellow Ssi Ya Gi co-founder Hyunch Sung first met, had helped design \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13912976/cafe-ohlone-hearst-museum-opening-singing-trees\">Cafe Ohlone’s new space\u003c/a> at UC Berkeley’s Hearst Museum of Anthropology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having established a relationship with Medina and Trevino, Pae and Sung were struck by how many similarities there were between the Korean and Ohlone cultures. In addition to their mutual respect for elders and having both experienced the long-lasting effects of being colonized, Koreans and Ohlones also had a surprising number of food staples in common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are so few cultures around the world who eat acorn,” Pae says. “We share acorn; we share fernbrake; we share buckwheat and mugwort. And we thought that this could be an incredible way to bridge our cultures.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930536\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930536\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181.jpg\" alt=\"Chia porridge topped with a scattering of berries and roasted hazelnuts. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_181-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For dessert, there was Ohlone-style chia porridge topped with sweet huckleberries. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To showcase those similarities, Cafe Ohlone and Ssi Ya Gi put together a feast cooked by local Korean chefs and the Cafe Ohlone team. The meal began with two different preparations of acorn: There was cold, velvety Ohlone black oak acorn soup, mild and refreshing. And then there were savory Korean acorn jellies, molded into the shape of actual acorns and topped with soy sauce, green onions and sesame seeds. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A procession of similarly abundant dishes followed. A spread of variously pickled and fermented Korean banchan to be eaten with steamed rice. A colorful Ohlone salad of watercress, pickleweed, roasted hazelnuts and at least three different kinds of berries, luxuriously dressed in walnut oil and blackberry-bay laurel coulis. And, courtesy of Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://seoulgomtang.co/\">Seoul Gom Tang\u003c/a>, bowls of hot, soul-warming yukgaejang, a Korean spicy beef soup made with fernbrake — also a typical Ohlone ingredient — cooked until impossibly tender and delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At one point, Cafe Ohlone’s Trevino demonstrated the traditional Ohlone method for removing the skin from acorns using a 100-year-old wooden basket, gently rocking it back and forth in order to toss the peeled acorns up into the air and catch them again. Though most of the Korean elders couldn’t understand what Trevino was saying until after the translator spoke, they watched with rapt attention, completely engrossed in what he was doing. Several of the older Korean ladies imitated his sifting motion, chattering excitedly among themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930533\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930533\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120.jpg\" alt=\"Man in glasses tosses acorns into the air using a small wooden basket.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_120-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cafe Ohlone’s Louis Trevino demonstrates the traditional method for winnowing acorns. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930532\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930532\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118.jpg\" alt=\"Man in glasses tosses acorns into the air using a small wooden basket.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_118-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As it turns out, the technique is nearly identical to the one used in Korea. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, one of them stood up and said, “We have that.” As it turns out, the traditional Korean method for winnowing acorns is almost entirely the same.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How many people could say they’ve shared in common an experience as specific as that?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ssi Ya Gi’s founders say that’s precisely the kind of intercultural connection that they hope to foster. As Lee puts it, “Even though all of us in the collective are Korean American and our focus has been on interviewing Korean seniors, the themes are universal — and the desire to create community and retain cultural memories.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930537\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930537\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192.jpg\" alt=\"An elderly Korean woman in tinted glasses smiles as she shakes hands with an Ohlone man.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_192-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joanne Selby Kim, the subject of a zine about her memories of her father’s castella cakes, shakes hands with Medina at the end of the evening. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930538\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930538\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200.jpg\" alt=\"A Korean elder whimsically wears a colorful Ohlone blanket.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_200-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">As the evening cooled, the Cafe Ohlone team passed out colorful Ohlone blankets to keep their Korean guests warm. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In September, Ssi Ya Gi will continue that work by hosting a similar “listening supper” to celebrate Chuseok, the Korean harvest festival, in collaboration with the AAPI grassroots nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://www.cutfruitcollective.org/\">Cut Fruit Collective\u003c/a>. Held in Oakland Chinatown, the event will bring together two different communities of elders — Korean and Chinese. Later this winter, the group will also host another event in Los Angeles to showcase oral histories that they’re collecting from both Korean and Latinx elders centered on the gochu, or chili pepper. The focus, once again, will be on cross-cultural exchange.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in Berkeley, the landmark Korean-Ohlone dinner wound down with laughter and embraces, as the Korean seniors thanked their Ohlone hosts for the delicious, one-of-a-kind meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Come visit us again,” Cafe Ohlone’s Medina said as he leaned over to give one elderly Korean woman a hug. “We share so much in common.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13930539\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13930539\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238.jpg\" alt=\"A group photo features Ssi Ya Gi's staff of Korean American volunteers as well as the Ohlone co-owners of Cafe Ohlone.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/06/OhloneKorean_HW_238-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Team Ssi Ya Gi + team Cafe Ohlone. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Hardy Wilson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For updates on Ssi Ya Gi’s upcoming events in both Los Angeles and the Bay Area (specific dates TBD), following them on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ssiyagi/\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "At the World’s Only Ohlone Restaurant, Even the Trees Will Sing in Chochenyo",
"headTitle": "At the World’s Only Ohlone Restaurant, Even the Trees Will Sing in Chochenyo | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the better part of the pandemic, Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino didn’t even think about reopening \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The world’s only Ohlone restaurant never did outdoor dining. It only started offering a tiny number of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">take-home meal kits\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> many months after takeout had become the new normal—and just for one Sunday a month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Medina and Trevino found an even higher calling: While the restaurant hibernated, they huddled close within their own community and dedicated themselves to hosting weekly language classes over Zoom, teaching young children and 90-year-old elders how to speak Chochenyo and Rumsen Ohlone.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, all that cultural work is paying dividends for the restaurant, too. When Cafe Ohlone opens next month at its new location at UC Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hearst Museum of Anthropology\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, even the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">trees \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">will speak and sing in Chochenyo—trees hooked up to a state-of-the-art sound system playing recordings of those same Chochenyo students, to be specific. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The singing trees are just one of the showpieces in Cafe Ohlone’s new outdoor dining room, which is finally gearing up to open after the restaurant \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">lost its original, back-of-a-bookstore Berkeley location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> fairly early on during shelter in place. According to Medina, every aspect of the new restaurant is meant to evoke “a beautiful reality that looks like an Ohlone village when you walk in.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913051\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913051\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A sampler plate of Ohlone food includes a small dish of acorn soup, fried sea lettuce and a skewer of venison backstrap.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sampling of Cafe Ohlone’s food given out at an April 23 preview event. Small bites included fried sea lettuce, roasted fiddlehead ferns, venison backstrap and cold black oak acorn soup for dipping. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re calling it a love song to Ohlone culture,” Medina told guests at an April preview event held at the restaurant, “because every element of the space has been designed to be specific to our beautiful Ohlone culture—to our language, to our plants, to our foods, to our values, to our aesthetics.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID=arts_13899524,arts_13913184]Even after Cafe Ohlone lost its home during the early months of the pandemic, Medina and Trevino were always insistent that the restaurant would return bigger and better than ever. But the two felt conflicted at first when the Hearst Museum offered them the opportunity to reopen. After all, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13899524/cafe-ohlone-restaurant-hearst-museum-berkeley-opening\">the museum’s relationship with the Ohlones had been deeply fraught\u003c/a>: Alfred Kroeber, the museum’s longtime director, was the one who was largely responsible for the Ohlones losing their federal recognition when his \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Handbook of the Indians of California\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> declared them to be “culturally extinct” in 1925. Subsequently, the museum itself looted the Ohlone shellmounds and took possession of many of their sacred objects and ancestral remains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, Medina and Trevino decided to take the museum’s offer to host Cafe Ohlone as a first step toward righting some of those past wrongs. “In the past, the university has not been on our side,” Medina says. “But no one wants to stay stuck in a place of frustration. This is something that can go in a really beautiful direction, especially when it’s paired with Ohlone people having a permanent presence here.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913047\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Vincent Medina holds a wooden post with the name of an Ohlone community member inscribed on it.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meyer Sound speakers will be attached to wooden posts next to each singing tree in the main dining area at cafe Ohlone. Each post will have the name of the Ohlone community whose voice recording is attached to that tree. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthrolopogy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The design of the space itself is meant to make Cafe Ohlone feel like a portal to a “whole world reimagined,” as Medina puts it—a place that reflects an Ohlone worldview down to the last detail. When guests first enter the open-air restaurant, they’ll cross through a redwood-framed “shadow box” of sorts, with plants native to the Ohlone lands illuminated onto a screen. Walking down a winding path, they’ll see two 5,000-pound granite boulders that will serve as the seats for one dining area. At the center of the restaurant, handmade tables and chairs made of reclaimed redwood will form several socially distanced “dining pods.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On the wall along one side of the dining room, there will be a building-sized mural by the native artist Jean LaMarr that will depict the great-grandparents of today’s Ohlones looking down on the restaurant, with chipped glass on top made to look like stars illuminating the night sky. At the very back of the restaurant, next to a newly built shellmound, there will be one final, elevated dining area overlooking the entire restaurant—“one communal table for our elders to sit and take it all in,” Medina explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, the central area of the restaurant is where the singing trees will live. The idea came about through a collaboration with Meyer Sound, a Berkeley-based company known for its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/91355/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">groundbreaking restaurant sound systems\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. At the new Cafe Ohlone, the Meyer Sound–donated sound system will be set up so that the trees scattered throughout the outdoor dining room—valley oak, hazel, manzanita and sycamore—will have speakers attached that will fill the space with the living Chochenyo language. Each speaker will feature the recorded voice of a member of the Ohlone community—a student in Medina and Trevino’s ongoing Chochenyo classes, in fact. So, as guests sit down to enjoy their meal, the trees will also converse and share gossip with one another in Chochenyo. “One tree will tell a joke, and another will start laughing,” Medina says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913049\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913049\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of rosehip tea.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of lightly sweetened rosehip tea. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthropology)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yes, the trees will even sing. Medina explains that he and Trevino have translated some of the 1960s pop songs that their grandparents played at home. For instance, they’ve recorded a Chochenyo version of the old love song “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu2dAQ3xb8s\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Angel Baby\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” but they’ve changed it so that the song is now addressed to “holše noono,” which means “beautiful language”—a love song to Chochenyo itself. The song starts with a single tree—a single elder from the community—singing by itself until the others join in one by one. It ends with a ten-year-old girl named Amaya Ruano—a star pupil of those Chochenyo language classes—singing a solo to represent the passing of the torch to the next generation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the food itself, one important change is that Medina and Trevino will train members of the Cal Dining staff to prepare most of the food that will be served at the original restaurant. Another is that the menu will have a little bit more of a modern feel. In addition to the most traditional, precolonial Ohlone food preparations, the new Cafe Ohlone will also serve rancheria dishes that became popular within the community during the late 1800s—things like rabbit mole, venison chile colorado and California’s native Olympia oysters, served both raw and smoked. Medina says he also plans to introduce some Ohlone-ized pasta dishes like the ones his great-great-great-grandfather—a Sicilian who took asylum at Mission San Jose and fell in love with an Ohlone woman—would have introduced to the community. So, Medina is playing around with handmade pasta dishes that incorporate native edible flowers like violet and nasturtium or a dandelion green pesto. “All these things are part of the Ohlone tradition,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Medina estimates that the construction and design work on the restaurant is currently about 60% complete, though major components like the mural and the sound system still need to be installed. If all goes well, Cafe Ohlone will start serving a series of meals for members of the Ohlone community later this month. By June, Medina says, the restaurant should be ready for its grand opening. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cafe Ohlone is slated to open in June at the Hearst Museum of Anthropology, at 102 Anthropology and Art Practice Building on Bancroft Way at College Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the better part of the pandemic, Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino didn’t even think about reopening \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The world’s only Ohlone restaurant never did outdoor dining. It only started offering a tiny number of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">take-home meal kits\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> many months after takeout had become the new normal—and just for one Sunday a month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Medina and Trevino found an even higher calling: While the restaurant hibernated, they huddled close within their own community and dedicated themselves to hosting weekly language classes over Zoom, teaching young children and 90-year-old elders how to speak Chochenyo and Rumsen Ohlone.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, all that cultural work is paying dividends for the restaurant, too. When Cafe Ohlone opens next month at its new location at UC Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hearst Museum of Anthropology\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, even the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">trees \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">will speak and sing in Chochenyo—trees hooked up to a state-of-the-art sound system playing recordings of those same Chochenyo students, to be specific. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The singing trees are just one of the showpieces in Cafe Ohlone’s new outdoor dining room, which is finally gearing up to open after the restaurant \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">lost its original, back-of-a-bookstore Berkeley location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> fairly early on during shelter in place. According to Medina, every aspect of the new restaurant is meant to evoke “a beautiful reality that looks like an Ohlone village when you walk in.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913051\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913051\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A sampler plate of Ohlone food includes a small dish of acorn soup, fried sea lettuce and a skewer of venison backstrap.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sampling of Cafe Ohlone’s food given out at an April 23 preview event. Small bites included fried sea lettuce, roasted fiddlehead ferns, venison backstrap and cold black oak acorn soup for dipping. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re calling it a love song to Ohlone culture,” Medina told guests at an April preview event held at the restaurant, “because every element of the space has been designed to be specific to our beautiful Ohlone culture—to our language, to our plants, to our foods, to our values, to our aesthetics.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Even after Cafe Ohlone lost its home during the early months of the pandemic, Medina and Trevino were always insistent that the restaurant would return bigger and better than ever. But the two felt conflicted at first when the Hearst Museum offered them the opportunity to reopen. After all, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13899524/cafe-ohlone-restaurant-hearst-museum-berkeley-opening\">the museum’s relationship with the Ohlones had been deeply fraught\u003c/a>: Alfred Kroeber, the museum’s longtime director, was the one who was largely responsible for the Ohlones losing their federal recognition when his \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Handbook of the Indians of California\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> declared them to be “culturally extinct” in 1925. Subsequently, the museum itself looted the Ohlone shellmounds and took possession of many of their sacred objects and ancestral remains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, Medina and Trevino decided to take the museum’s offer to host Cafe Ohlone as a first step toward righting some of those past wrongs. “In the past, the university has not been on our side,” Medina says. “But no one wants to stay stuck in a place of frustration. This is something that can go in a really beautiful direction, especially when it’s paired with Ohlone people having a permanent presence here.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913047\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Vincent Medina holds a wooden post with the name of an Ohlone community member inscribed on it.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meyer Sound speakers will be attached to wooden posts next to each singing tree in the main dining area at cafe Ohlone. Each post will have the name of the Ohlone community whose voice recording is attached to that tree. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthrolopogy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The design of the space itself is meant to make Cafe Ohlone feel like a portal to a “whole world reimagined,” as Medina puts it—a place that reflects an Ohlone worldview down to the last detail. When guests first enter the open-air restaurant, they’ll cross through a redwood-framed “shadow box” of sorts, with plants native to the Ohlone lands illuminated onto a screen. Walking down a winding path, they’ll see two 5,000-pound granite boulders that will serve as the seats for one dining area. At the center of the restaurant, handmade tables and chairs made of reclaimed redwood will form several socially distanced “dining pods.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On the wall along one side of the dining room, there will be a building-sized mural by the native artist Jean LaMarr that will depict the great-grandparents of today’s Ohlones looking down on the restaurant, with chipped glass on top made to look like stars illuminating the night sky. At the very back of the restaurant, next to a newly built shellmound, there will be one final, elevated dining area overlooking the entire restaurant—“one communal table for our elders to sit and take it all in,” Medina explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, the central area of the restaurant is where the singing trees will live. The idea came about through a collaboration with Meyer Sound, a Berkeley-based company known for its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/91355/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">groundbreaking restaurant sound systems\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. At the new Cafe Ohlone, the Meyer Sound–donated sound system will be set up so that the trees scattered throughout the outdoor dining room—valley oak, hazel, manzanita and sycamore—will have speakers attached that will fill the space with the living Chochenyo language. Each speaker will feature the recorded voice of a member of the Ohlone community—a student in Medina and Trevino’s ongoing Chochenyo classes, in fact. So, as guests sit down to enjoy their meal, the trees will also converse and share gossip with one another in Chochenyo. “One tree will tell a joke, and another will start laughing,” Medina says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913049\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913049\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of rosehip tea.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of lightly sweetened rosehip tea. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthropology)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yes, the trees will even sing. Medina explains that he and Trevino have translated some of the 1960s pop songs that their grandparents played at home. For instance, they’ve recorded a Chochenyo version of the old love song “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu2dAQ3xb8s\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Angel Baby\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” but they’ve changed it so that the song is now addressed to “holše noono,” which means “beautiful language”—a love song to Chochenyo itself. The song starts with a single tree—a single elder from the community—singing by itself until the others join in one by one. It ends with a ten-year-old girl named Amaya Ruano—a star pupil of those Chochenyo language classes—singing a solo to represent the passing of the torch to the next generation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the food itself, one important change is that Medina and Trevino will train members of the Cal Dining staff to prepare most of the food that will be served at the original restaurant. Another is that the menu will have a little bit more of a modern feel. In addition to the most traditional, precolonial Ohlone food preparations, the new Cafe Ohlone will also serve rancheria dishes that became popular within the community during the late 1800s—things like rabbit mole, venison chile colorado and California’s native Olympia oysters, served both raw and smoked. Medina says he also plans to introduce some Ohlone-ized pasta dishes like the ones his great-great-great-grandfather—a Sicilian who took asylum at Mission San Jose and fell in love with an Ohlone woman—would have introduced to the community. So, Medina is playing around with handmade pasta dishes that incorporate native edible flowers like violet and nasturtium or a dandelion green pesto. “All these things are part of the Ohlone tradition,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Medina estimates that the construction and design work on the restaurant is currently about 60% complete, though major components like the mural and the sound system still need to be installed. If all goes well, Cafe Ohlone will start serving a series of meals for members of the Ohlone community later this month. By June, Medina says, the restaurant should be ready for its grand opening. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cafe Ohlone is slated to open in June at the Hearst Museum of Anthropology, at 102 Anthropology and Art Practice Building on Bancroft Way at College Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "There’s a New Indigenous Restaurant Coming to Fruitvale",
"headTitle": "There’s a New Indigenous Restaurant Coming to Fruitvale | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past 10 years, customers have been asking Crystal Wahpepah when she would turn her Oakland-based Indigenous catering business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://wahpepahskitchen.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah’s Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, into a proper restaurant. Her response was always the same: “Right time, right place.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CTQbMpjvHHt/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">that time has come\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: Wahpepah has taken over the Fruitvale BART–adjacent space formerly occupied by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Reem’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the groundbreaking Arab bakery. When the new Wahpepah’s Kitchen opens there later this fall—hopefully by the end of October, Wahpepah says—it will be an all-day Indigenous restaurant serving blue corn waffles, blueberry bison meatballs and a variety of colorful Native salads and stews. It will be the only place of its kind in Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13903544\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13903544\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A chef holds a wooden bowl inside her restaurant.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Wahpepah poses inside her new restaurant in Fruitvale—the old Reem’s space. \u003ccite>(Wahpepah's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Reem’s, which converted its Fruitvale location into a commissary kitchen during the pandemic, will \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Arab-hit-Reem-s-is-moving-its-original-Oakland-16449156.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">move its wholesale and catering operations just around the corner\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Wahpepah, who was born and raised in East Oakland, the restaurant’s debut will also be a homecoming. “I went to elementary school not too far from here; I live a few blocks away,” she says. “What better opportunity to literally serve the community you grew up in?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant is also part of a modern Indigenous cooking movement that has been ascendant in the United States for several years now, most visibly in the Bay Area through \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13899524/cafe-ohlone-restaurant-hearst-museum-berkeley-opening\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Berkeley’s Cafe Ohlone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and Wahpepah’s own catering business, whose popularity helped land the chef a spot on the Food Network cooking competition show \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Wahpepah was the first Native chef chosen to participate. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah, who identifies as Indigenous Black American, says her business was thriving before the pandemic brought all catering to a standstill, forcing the chef to give up her commercial kitchen space. “I was trying to make ends meet,” Wahpepah says, when she started inquiring about potential kitchen spaces in Fruitvale. Reem’s founder Reem Assil wound up reaching out to her a little over a year ago, and the two women connected over their shared vision for serving Fruitvale. At the time, Assil was already contemplating a move to a larger kitchen, and she told Wahpepah that she wanted to pass the original Reem’s space on to her. “That touched my heart big time,” Wahpepah says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It was really important that we pass the torch to someone from the neighborhood,” Assil says. “It was also really important to be an ally to an Indigenous Black chef as fierce as Crystal and to continue the legacy of a strong, diverse ecosystem of local business that serves the community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It wound up taking a year to complete the transition, during which time Wahpepah kept her business afloat by selling \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://wahpepahskitchen.com/new-products\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a line of nutrition bars\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> made with Indigenous ingredients, including a chocolate and chokeberry bar she’s especially proud of.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13903548\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13903548\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of meat stew topped with tortilla chips.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the hearty stews that will feature prominently on the Wahpepah’s Kitchen menu. \u003ccite>(Wahpepah's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a registered member of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kickapootribeofoklahoma.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kickapoo Tribe of Oklahoma\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Wahpepah is part of what she describes as a small but vibrant Kickapoo community in Oakland. (“When I run into another Kickapoo, it’s pretty cool,” she says.) Naturally, Kickapoo dishes will be well represented on the restaurant’s menu, with crowd pleasers like Wahpepah’s Kickapoo chili, which she likes to serve with a side of cornbread, and a version of the hominy and venison soup that her grandmother made back home in Oklahoma. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah is no purist, though. She talks about growing up in Oakland’s “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://wahpepahskitchen.com/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">multi-tribal, tight-knit, urban Native community\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” whose foodways spanned ingredients and influences far beyond those specific to any one tribe. The Ohlones and the Pomo tribe, both native to Northern California, were particularly influential. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I’ve seen so many different beautiful tribes and different foods,” Wahpepah says. “So all these foods that I cook, it’s something that I grew up with and something that means a lot to me.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13903549\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13903549\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of fried salmon and sweet potato fries, with berry sauce for dipping.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A plate of corn-crusted salmon with fries. \u003ccite>(Wahpepah's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That approach translates into a modern, varied cuisine that isn’t locked into any one tradition. The food at Wahpepah’s Kitchen is “just kind of what’s going on in Native cooking today,” as Wahpepah puts it. She’s probably best known for her blue corn blueberry bison meatballs, her vibrant, colorful salads made with whatever’s in season—gorgeously multi-colored flint corn, for instance—and her various hearty, wholesome corn and squash stews. But she’ll also serve french fries seasoned with sage or cedar salt. She’s experimented with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CRK0xzkrXEh/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">snow cones\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that feature Indigenous flavors like blackberry-sage. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the restaurant, the meal Wahpepah is most excited to serve is breakfast, which will feature things like sweet potato hash and waffles made with acorn or blue corn batter. “I just love creating with Indigenous ingredients,” she says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13899524,news_11789158']“Crystal has always been as much about this place, the Bay Area, as she is Native and Indigenous foods,” says Caleb Zigas, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/letterfromcaleb\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">departing executive director\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of the La Cocina kitchen incubator, recalling the time when Wahpepah went through the program about a decade ago. “That kind of relationship to place is so special to me, and I think you can really taste it in her food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah says the restaurant’s prominent location should give her the opportunity to reach new customers who haven’t experienced Indigenous food, but she believes her Native customers (“my number one clients”) will continue to form the backbone of the business. And Wahpepah sees herself as very much aligned with the broader movement to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/17/dining/new-native-american-cuisine.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">revitalize Native cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the U.S.—a movement that’s deeply connected to issues of food sovereignty and healing from trauma, she says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ultimately, Wahpepah wants Native customers who walk into her restaurant to feel inspired. “If they see a dish from their tribe, I want them to feel pride. I want people to taste and feel the love. To know that these foods matter.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wapepah’s Kitchen is tentatively slated to open in late October at 1419 34th Avenue in Oakland, adjacent to the Fruitvale BART station. Follow the business on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wahpepahskitchen/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for updates.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Wahpepah’s Kitchen will serve bison meatballs and colorful Native salads in the former Reem’s space in Oakland.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the past 10 years, customers have been asking Crystal Wahpepah when she would turn her Oakland-based Indigenous catering business, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://wahpepahskitchen.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah’s Kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, into a proper restaurant. Her response was always the same: “Right time, right place.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CTQbMpjvHHt/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">that time has come\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">: Wahpepah has taken over the Fruitvale BART–adjacent space formerly occupied by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.reemscalifornia.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Reem’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the groundbreaking Arab bakery. When the new Wahpepah’s Kitchen opens there later this fall—hopefully by the end of October, Wahpepah says—it will be an all-day Indigenous restaurant serving blue corn waffles, blueberry bison meatballs and a variety of colorful Native salads and stews. It will be the only place of its kind in Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13903544\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13903544\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A chef holds a wooden bowl inside her restaurant.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_portrait-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Wahpepah poses inside her new restaurant in Fruitvale—the old Reem’s space. \u003ccite>(Wahpepah's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Reem’s, which converted its Fruitvale location into a commissary kitchen during the pandemic, will \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Arab-hit-Reem-s-is-moving-its-original-Oakland-16449156.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">move its wholesale and catering operations just around the corner\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Wahpepah, who was born and raised in East Oakland, the restaurant’s debut will also be a homecoming. “I went to elementary school not too far from here; I live a few blocks away,” she says. “What better opportunity to literally serve the community you grew up in?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant is also part of a modern Indigenous cooking movement that has been ascendant in the United States for several years now, most visibly in the Bay Area through \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13899524/cafe-ohlone-restaurant-hearst-museum-berkeley-opening\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Berkeley’s Cafe Ohlone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and Wahpepah’s own catering business, whose popularity helped land the chef a spot on the Food Network cooking competition show \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Wahpepah was the first Native chef chosen to participate. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah, who identifies as Indigenous Black American, says her business was thriving before the pandemic brought all catering to a standstill, forcing the chef to give up her commercial kitchen space. “I was trying to make ends meet,” Wahpepah says, when she started inquiring about potential kitchen spaces in Fruitvale. Reem’s founder Reem Assil wound up reaching out to her a little over a year ago, and the two women connected over their shared vision for serving Fruitvale. At the time, Assil was already contemplating a move to a larger kitchen, and she told Wahpepah that she wanted to pass the original Reem’s space on to her. “That touched my heart big time,” Wahpepah says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It was really important that we pass the torch to someone from the neighborhood,” Assil says. “It was also really important to be an ally to an Indigenous Black chef as fierce as Crystal and to continue the legacy of a strong, diverse ecosystem of local business that serves the community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It wound up taking a year to complete the transition, during which time Wahpepah kept her business afloat by selling \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://wahpepahskitchen.com/new-products\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a line of nutrition bars\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> made with Indigenous ingredients, including a chocolate and chokeberry bar she’s especially proud of.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13903548\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13903548\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of meat stew topped with tortilla chips.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_stew-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the hearty stews that will feature prominently on the Wahpepah’s Kitchen menu. \u003ccite>(Wahpepah's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a registered member of the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kickapootribeofoklahoma.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kickapoo Tribe of Oklahoma\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Wahpepah is part of what she describes as a small but vibrant Kickapoo community in Oakland. (“When I run into another Kickapoo, it’s pretty cool,” she says.) Naturally, Kickapoo dishes will be well represented on the restaurant’s menu, with crowd pleasers like Wahpepah’s Kickapoo chili, which she likes to serve with a side of cornbread, and a version of the hominy and venison soup that her grandmother made back home in Oklahoma. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah is no purist, though. She talks about growing up in Oakland’s “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://wahpepahskitchen.com/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">multi-tribal, tight-knit, urban Native community\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” whose foodways spanned ingredients and influences far beyond those specific to any one tribe. The Ohlones and the Pomo tribe, both native to Northern California, were particularly influential. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I’ve seen so many different beautiful tribes and different foods,” Wahpepah says. “So all these foods that I cook, it’s something that I grew up with and something that means a lot to me.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13903549\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13903549\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of fried salmon and sweet potato fries, with berry sauce for dipping.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/09/wahpepah_fries-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A plate of corn-crusted salmon with fries. \u003ccite>(Wahpepah's Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That approach translates into a modern, varied cuisine that isn’t locked into any one tradition. The food at Wahpepah’s Kitchen is “just kind of what’s going on in Native cooking today,” as Wahpepah puts it. She’s probably best known for her blue corn blueberry bison meatballs, her vibrant, colorful salads made with whatever’s in season—gorgeously multi-colored flint corn, for instance—and her various hearty, wholesome corn and squash stews. But she’ll also serve french fries seasoned with sage or cedar salt. She’s experimented with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CRK0xzkrXEh/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">snow cones\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that feature Indigenous flavors like blackberry-sage. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the restaurant, the meal Wahpepah is most excited to serve is breakfast, which will feature things like sweet potato hash and waffles made with acorn or blue corn batter. “I just love creating with Indigenous ingredients,” she says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“Crystal has always been as much about this place, the Bay Area, as she is Native and Indigenous foods,” says Caleb Zigas, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://lacocinasf.org/letterfromcaleb\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">departing executive director\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of the La Cocina kitchen incubator, recalling the time when Wahpepah went through the program about a decade ago. “That kind of relationship to place is so special to me, and I think you can really taste it in her food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wahpepah says the restaurant’s prominent location should give her the opportunity to reach new customers who haven’t experienced Indigenous food, but she believes her Native customers (“my number one clients”) will continue to form the backbone of the business. And Wahpepah sees herself as very much aligned with the broader movement to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/17/dining/new-native-american-cuisine.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">revitalize Native cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the U.S.—a movement that’s deeply connected to issues of food sovereignty and healing from trauma, she says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ultimately, Wahpepah wants Native customers who walk into her restaurant to feel inspired. “If they see a dish from their tribe, I want them to feel pride. I want people to taste and feel the love. To know that these foods matter.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Wapepah’s Kitchen is tentatively slated to open in late October at 1419 34th Avenue in Oakland, adjacent to the Fruitvale BART station. Follow the business on \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/wahpepahskitchen/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for updates.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Embracing a Painful History, the World's Only Ohlone Restaurant Finds Unlikely New Home",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]W[/dropcap]hen \u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/a> shut its doors last summer, its owners promised they would be back before long. Now, a year later, the world’s only Ohlone restaurant is gearing up for a triumphant return: Owners Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Groundbreaking-food-pop-up-Cafe-Ohlone-s-16239430.php\">announced earlier this month\u003c/a> that the restaurant will reopen in Berkeley this November\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The new, larger incarnation of the restaurant will be located in the outdoor courtyard of UC Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hearst Museum of Anthropology\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It will continue to serve the pre-colonial dishes the original Cafe Ohlone was known for—the kind you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the Bay Area, like venison meatballs, chia seed bread and cold, luxuriously silky acorn soup. What will be new, however, is the introduction of dishes that evoke more recent periods in Ohlone history. And, perhaps most significantly, Medina and Trevino hope the courtyard restaurant will usher in a new era of cooperation with an institution that has, historically, inflicted great pain on the Ohlone people—including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/politics/article/California-bill-seeks-to-give-tribes-more-15759223.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">thousands of ancestral remains and sacred objects\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that the Hearst Museum has not yet returned to the Ohlone people.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We have a very complex and not necessarily positive history, up until recently, with the Hearst,” Medina says. “They want to do the right thing, but they need to know \u003cem>how\u003c/em> to do the right thing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Painful History\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The plan to bring Cafe Ohlone to the Hearst came about fairly quickly. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">The restaurant had been on indefinite hiatus\u003c/a> when University Press Books, whose back patio it occupied, closed—a casualty of COVID-related financial pressures. Left without a home, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/12/dining/cafe-ohlone-review-berkeley.html\">nationally acclaimed\u003c/a> restaurant was forced to end its two-year run of perennially sold-out ticketed dinners, transitioning instead to a monthly \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/28/21535007/cafe-ohlone-takeout-box-meal-kit\">meal kit takeout program\u003c/a> that it has run for the past several months out of a commissary kitchen in Old Oakland. As Medina and Trevino looked for a new permanent home for the restaurant, they initially concentrated their search in the San Lorenzo area, where many of the East Bay Ohlones live. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899538\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899538\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"One of Cafe Ohlone's meal kits, packaged in a handmade wooden box, with fresh flowers and tubs of ingredients visible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Cafe Ohlone’s meal kits, packaged in a handmade wooden box. \u003ccite>(Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, Kent Lightfoot, an anthropology professor at UC Berkeley, suggested the Hearst as a possible destination for the restaurant—a possibility that, as Medina explains, felt extremely fraught. Alfred Kroeber, the museum’s \u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/un-naming-kroeber-hall-a-message-from-the-directors/\">longtime director from 1908 to 1946\u003c/a> (back when it was called the University of California Museum of Anthropology), had a direct hand in causing the Ohlones to lose federal recognition when his 1925 \u003ci>Handbook of the Indians of California \u003c/i>declared them to be “culturally extinct.” Phoebe Hearst, the museum’s current namesake, lived in a mansion that she built on Ohlone land in the Amador Valley, near Pleasanton—right on the other side of the river where Medina’s great-grandparents’ generation lived in one-room shacks. “The Hearst family got richer and richer as our family was disenfranchised,” Medina says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Perhaps most painfully, once the Ohlones lost their federal recognition, the Hearst Museum went onto their land and looted the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11704679/there-were-once-more-than-425-shellmounds-in-the-bay-area-where-did-they-go\">shellmounds\u003c/a>. “They went in and removed our ancestors from their cemeteries; they removed our cultural objects,” he says. “They just took as much as they could without any care about the sacred.” Medina says he still vividly remembers how during the mid-’90s, when he was seven or eight years old, an Ohlone elder told him about how those remains were being kept in pink containers under the tennis courts at UC Berkeley: “It’s always stuck with me, the anger that was there in her voice.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Vincent Medina\"]“They want to do the right thing, but they need to know \u003cem>how\u003c/em> to do the right thing.”[/pullquote]But Medina also notes that in more recent years, since Cafe Ohlone opened its original location near campus, the Hearst has said all the right things about wanting to repatriate those remains and sacred objects, and to promote Ohlone visibility. The hope, he says, is that working closely with the Hearst will help speed up that process. “If we can be there to encourage greater respect of Ohlone people, then we’re going to do that,” Medina says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='news_11788912,news_11698712']In fact, Trevino and Medina felt there would be something very beautiful about hosting meals right outside the space where so many of their people’s relics are located—about bringing Cafe Ohlone’s own modern-day Ohlone baskets and mortars and pestles into that courtyard to take their place among those older objects.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Initially, when Medina and Trevino thought about the post-pandemic future of the restaurant, they’d imagined it as a community center of sorts, where they’d be able to host their language and other cultural classes, and where Ohlone people across generations would be able to gather on a regular basis. They’d still like to create a separate place for that in the San Lorenzo area sometime in the future, but the restaurant will be a cultural center in its own way. At the university, Ohlone visitors will be able to access the actual archives where their language is documented. They’ll be able to see, in person, the baskets woven by their ancestors, which they’ve previously only seen in photos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Ohlone-izing the Menu\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the meals themselves, much will remain the same: They’ll still be pre-ticketed prix fixe affairs, held just once a week when they start in November. One thing that will be new, however, is a deeper exploration of foods that don’t fit as neatly into the general public’s understanding of “traditional” native cuisines—dishes and ingredients that aren’t “pre-contact,” but are no less authentically Ohlone. “Throughout different stages of colonization and missionization,” Medina explains, “there were ingredients that were introduced here by either the Spanish during the mission times or by Mexican folks, or later by Americans, that were embraced by our family here and ‘Ohlone-ized.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The pandemic gave Medina and Trevino time to really explore these more recent additions to the Ohlone table. In their May takeout box, they included venison chile colorado, a dish that combines venison—a traditional Ohlone ingredient—with spices and cooking techniques that developed in Mexico. It’s a dish Medina’s great-grandparents might have prepared on the rancheria. Cafe Ohlone customers ate the stew with chia flour tortillas and acorn bread.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“What we want people to know is that Ohlone folks have been there every step of the way,” Medina says. “And sometimes that means we embrace an ingredient that’s not native, but there’s this consistent way of doing it on our own terms.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899539\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899539\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"An Ohlone salad in a cardboard takeout box, with bright orange edible flowers and locally gathered greens and nuts.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Ohlone salad, made with locally gathered ingredients. \u003ccite>(Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Throughout the pandemic, Cafe Ohlone has erred on the side of caution, citing the Ohlone people’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/14/21219066/cafe-ohlone-berkeley-closed-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">long history of having infectious diseases weaponized against them\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, particularly in the Spanish missions. And even now, as California opens up and vaccination rates creep upward, Medina says the restaurant will continue to take a conservative approach. Instead of having customers all sit together at one long communal table, they’ll be spread out on the museum’s large garden terrace, where Medina and Trevino will set up a mobile kitchen. If all goes according to plan, it will be a lovely setting for a meal, full of lush greenery—native plants arranged to create natural buffers between the tables, allowing for socially distanced dining.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899542\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899542\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Pan-fried halibut with a hazelnut flour curst and a colorful gooseberry salsa\" width=\"2048\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-scaled.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pan-fried local halibut with a California hazelnut crust and a summertime gooseberry and tomato salsa. \u003ccite>(Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the meantime, while the new restaurant space is built out, Cafe Ohlone will continue its monthly “Sunday Supper” meal kit program, with boxes currently \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/reserve\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">available to be reserved for July 18 and August 8\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While COVID may have put the restaurant on ice for more than a year, Medina says he’s grateful for the time he and Trevino were able to devote to uplifting other aspects of Ohlone culture, especially within the community itself. For instance, they recently marked the 58th consecutive week of holding language classes via Zoom, focusing on both the Chochenyo and Rumsen Ohlone languages, spoken by the East Bay and Monterey/Carmel area Ohlones, respectively. Participants range from a 90-year-old auntie to literal babies—one soon-to-be mother attended the classes all throughout her pregnancy, and then she Zoomed in from the maternity ward after giving birth.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“She wanted the baby’s first language to be Chochenyo,” Medina says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Near the start of the pandemic, when things were at their bleakest, Medina and Trevino shared \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/B-OE0bDBasu/?utm_source=ig_embed&ig_rid=d5617e27-1e98-41b5-b301-c612d4d9d00a\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">an oration that they had composed in Chochenyo, in the classic Ohlone oratory style\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, as an exhortation to their community to stay home for the time being: “Now we must stay apart. / So that our elders are safe / So that our young ones are safe / So that those who are vulnerable are safe, too.” But “makkin rootesin hemmen rocket,” the oration also promised: “We will be together again soon.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, as the restaurant gears up for its reopening, Medina says, “This is us making good on our word.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cafe Ohlone will reopen at UC Berkeley's Hearst Museum in November.",
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"title": "Embracing a Painful History, the World's Only Ohlone Restaurant Finds Unlikely New Home | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">W\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>hen \u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/a> shut its doors last summer, its owners promised they would be back before long. Now, a year later, the world’s only Ohlone restaurant is gearing up for a triumphant return: Owners Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Groundbreaking-food-pop-up-Cafe-Ohlone-s-16239430.php\">announced earlier this month\u003c/a> that the restaurant will reopen in Berkeley this November\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The new, larger incarnation of the restaurant will be located in the outdoor courtyard of UC Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hearst Museum of Anthropology\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. It will continue to serve the pre-colonial dishes the original Cafe Ohlone was known for—the kind you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the Bay Area, like venison meatballs, chia seed bread and cold, luxuriously silky acorn soup. What will be new, however, is the introduction of dishes that evoke more recent periods in Ohlone history. And, perhaps most significantly, Medina and Trevino hope the courtyard restaurant will usher in a new era of cooperation with an institution that has, historically, inflicted great pain on the Ohlone people—including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/politics/article/California-bill-seeks-to-give-tribes-more-15759223.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">thousands of ancestral remains and sacred objects\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that the Hearst Museum has not yet returned to the Ohlone people.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We have a very complex and not necessarily positive history, up until recently, with the Hearst,” Medina says. “They want to do the right thing, but they need to know \u003cem>how\u003c/em> to do the right thing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Painful History\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The plan to bring Cafe Ohlone to the Hearst came about fairly quickly. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">The restaurant had been on indefinite hiatus\u003c/a> when University Press Books, whose back patio it occupied, closed—a casualty of COVID-related financial pressures. Left without a home, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/12/dining/cafe-ohlone-review-berkeley.html\">nationally acclaimed\u003c/a> restaurant was forced to end its two-year run of perennially sold-out ticketed dinners, transitioning instead to a monthly \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/28/21535007/cafe-ohlone-takeout-box-meal-kit\">meal kit takeout program\u003c/a> that it has run for the past several months out of a commissary kitchen in Old Oakland. As Medina and Trevino looked for a new permanent home for the restaurant, they initially concentrated their search in the San Lorenzo area, where many of the East Bay Ohlones live. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899538\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899538\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"One of Cafe Ohlone's meal kits, packaged in a handmade wooden box, with fresh flowers and tubs of ingredients visible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_box-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Cafe Ohlone’s meal kits, packaged in a handmade wooden box. \u003ccite>(Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, Kent Lightfoot, an anthropology professor at UC Berkeley, suggested the Hearst as a possible destination for the restaurant—a possibility that, as Medina explains, felt extremely fraught. Alfred Kroeber, the museum’s \u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/un-naming-kroeber-hall-a-message-from-the-directors/\">longtime director from 1908 to 1946\u003c/a> (back when it was called the University of California Museum of Anthropology), had a direct hand in causing the Ohlones to lose federal recognition when his 1925 \u003ci>Handbook of the Indians of California \u003c/i>declared them to be “culturally extinct.” Phoebe Hearst, the museum’s current namesake, lived in a mansion that she built on Ohlone land in the Amador Valley, near Pleasanton—right on the other side of the river where Medina’s great-grandparents’ generation lived in one-room shacks. “The Hearst family got richer and richer as our family was disenfranchised,” Medina says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Perhaps most painfully, once the Ohlones lost their federal recognition, the Hearst Museum went onto their land and looted the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11704679/there-were-once-more-than-425-shellmounds-in-the-bay-area-where-did-they-go\">shellmounds\u003c/a>. “They went in and removed our ancestors from their cemeteries; they removed our cultural objects,” he says. “They just took as much as they could without any care about the sacred.” Medina says he still vividly remembers how during the mid-’90s, when he was seven or eight years old, an Ohlone elder told him about how those remains were being kept in pink containers under the tennis courts at UC Berkeley: “It’s always stuck with me, the anger that was there in her voice.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>But Medina also notes that in more recent years, since Cafe Ohlone opened its original location near campus, the Hearst has said all the right things about wanting to repatriate those remains and sacred objects, and to promote Ohlone visibility. The hope, he says, is that working closely with the Hearst will help speed up that process. “If we can be there to encourage greater respect of Ohlone people, then we’re going to do that,” Medina says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>In fact, Trevino and Medina felt there would be something very beautiful about hosting meals right outside the space where so many of their people’s relics are located—about bringing Cafe Ohlone’s own modern-day Ohlone baskets and mortars and pestles into that courtyard to take their place among those older objects.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Initially, when Medina and Trevino thought about the post-pandemic future of the restaurant, they’d imagined it as a community center of sorts, where they’d be able to host their language and other cultural classes, and where Ohlone people across generations would be able to gather on a regular basis. They’d still like to create a separate place for that in the San Lorenzo area sometime in the future, but the restaurant will be a cultural center in its own way. At the university, Ohlone visitors will be able to access the actual archives where their language is documented. They’ll be able to see, in person, the baskets woven by their ancestors, which they’ve previously only seen in photos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Ohlone-izing the Menu\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the meals themselves, much will remain the same: They’ll still be pre-ticketed prix fixe affairs, held just once a week when they start in November. One thing that will be new, however, is a deeper exploration of foods that don’t fit as neatly into the general public’s understanding of “traditional” native cuisines—dishes and ingredients that aren’t “pre-contact,” but are no less authentically Ohlone. “Throughout different stages of colonization and missionization,” Medina explains, “there were ingredients that were introduced here by either the Spanish during the mission times or by Mexican folks, or later by Americans, that were embraced by our family here and ‘Ohlone-ized.’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The pandemic gave Medina and Trevino time to really explore these more recent additions to the Ohlone table. In their May takeout box, they included venison chile colorado, a dish that combines venison—a traditional Ohlone ingredient—with spices and cooking techniques that developed in Mexico. It’s a dish Medina’s great-grandparents might have prepared on the rancheria. Cafe Ohlone customers ate the stew with chia flour tortillas and acorn bread.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“What we want people to know is that Ohlone folks have been there every step of the way,” Medina says. “And sometimes that means we embrace an ingredient that’s not native, but there’s this consistent way of doing it on our own terms.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899539\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899539\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"An Ohlone salad in a cardboard takeout box, with bright orange edible flowers and locally gathered greens and nuts.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_salad-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Ohlone salad, made with locally gathered ingredients. \u003ccite>(Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Throughout the pandemic, Cafe Ohlone has erred on the side of caution, citing the Ohlone people’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/14/21219066/cafe-ohlone-berkeley-closed-coronavirus\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">long history of having infectious diseases weaponized against them\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, particularly in the Spanish missions. And even now, as California opens up and vaccination rates creep upward, Medina says the restaurant will continue to take a conservative approach. Instead of having customers all sit together at one long communal table, they’ll be spread out on the museum’s large garden terrace, where Medina and Trevino will set up a mobile kitchen. If all goes according to plan, it will be a lovely setting for a meal, full of lush greenery—native plants arranged to create natural buffers between the tables, allowing for socially distanced dining.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13899542\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13899542\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Pan-fried halibut with a hazelnut flour curst and a colorful gooseberry salsa\" width=\"2048\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-scaled.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-160x200.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-768x960.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/06/CafeOhlone_fish-1920x2400.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pan-fried local halibut with a California hazelnut crust and a summertime gooseberry and tomato salsa. \u003ccite>(Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the meantime, while the new restaurant space is built out, Cafe Ohlone will continue its monthly “Sunday Supper” meal kit program, with boxes currently \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/reserve\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">available to be reserved for July 18 and August 8\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While COVID may have put the restaurant on ice for more than a year, Medina says he’s grateful for the time he and Trevino were able to devote to uplifting other aspects of Ohlone culture, especially within the community itself. For instance, they recently marked the 58th consecutive week of holding language classes via Zoom, focusing on both the Chochenyo and Rumsen Ohlone languages, spoken by the East Bay and Monterey/Carmel area Ohlones, respectively. Participants range from a 90-year-old auntie to literal babies—one soon-to-be mother attended the classes all throughout her pregnancy, and then she Zoomed in from the maternity ward after giving birth.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“She wanted the baby’s first language to be Chochenyo,” Medina says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Near the start of the pandemic, when things were at their bleakest, Medina and Trevino shared \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/B-OE0bDBasu/?utm_source=ig_embed&ig_rid=d5617e27-1e98-41b5-b301-c612d4d9d00a\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">an oration that they had composed in Chochenyo, in the classic Ohlone oratory style\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, as an exhortation to their community to stay home for the time being: “Now we must stay apart. / So that our elders are safe / So that our young ones are safe / So that those who are vulnerable are safe, too.” But “makkin rootesin hemmen rocket,” the oration also promised: “We will be together again soon.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, as the restaurant gears up for its reopening, Medina says, “This is us making good on our word.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"link": "/radio/program/reveal",
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"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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