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Kurutob - by Zlerman - wikimedia commons","credit":null,"status":"inherit","fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1716337520","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_46043":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_46043","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"46043","score":null,"sort":[1342627796000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1342627796,"format":"aside","disqusTitle":" Just Say Yes to Marcus Samuelsson’s Memoir, \"Yes, Chef\"","title":" Just Say Yes to Marcus Samuelsson’s Memoir, \"Yes, Chef\"","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0385342608/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=marcusamue-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0385342608\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/yes_chef1.jpg\" alt=\"Yes, Chef\" title=\"Yes, Chef\" width=\"400\" height=\"608\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46057\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Yes, Chef: a memoir.\" Photo courtesy marcussamuelsson.com\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Food and flavors have become my first language. Not English, not Swedish, not Amharic...”\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>– Marcus Samuelsson in \u003cstrong>\"Yes, Chef\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marcussamuelsson.com/\">Marcus Samuelsson\u003c/a>, the award-winning chef and cookbook author who seems to be everywhere at once--including \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/06/28/155909328/marcus-samuelsson-on-becoming-a-top-chef\">NPR’s Fresh Air\u003c/a>, The Today Show and the New York Times’ Best Seller List--spent two days last week in the Bay Area, being fêted at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\">Jardinière\u003c/a>, and reading from his new memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0385342608/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=marcusamue-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0385342608\">\"Yes, Chef,\"\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\">Book Passage\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxcD8hkdFQM\">Google\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ethiopian-born chef was raised by a loving, adoptive family in Sweden and went on to garner great success at New York’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.aquavit.org/restaurant/newyork/index.asp\">Aquavit\u003c/a> and to open his own restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://redroosterharlem.com/\">Red Rooster\u003c/a>, in Harlem. He recounts his life “chasing flavors” in this compelling memoir, which chronicles his remarkable story, resilient spirit, indomitable work ethic and desire to give back to America, the country he loves and now calls home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samuelsson grew up in the port city of Göteborg with a Swedish family that adopted him and his sister after they recovered from the tuberculosis that took his mother’s life in Addis Ababa. Samuelsson’s love of cooking was kindled in his Swedish grandmother’s kitchen, where he describes, “The yeasty aroma of freshly baked bread or the tang of drying rose hips hit you as soon as you walked in.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With touching candor, he writes that his heart was broken at age 16, when he was kicked off his beloved soccer team because he was deemed “too small.” Samuelsson then decided to become a chef. In the book, he describes how his singular determination helped him work his way up through professional kitchens in Sweden, Switzerland, France and Austria. Besides painting a vivid picture of the rigors of the professional kitchen, he details the subtle discrimination he faced as he tried to advance to a higher level of restaurant, where his Swedish name might get him a meeting with a chef, but seeing his black skin would suddenly change the agenda. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Marcus_Samuelsson_author_photo_credit_Kwaku_Alston1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Marcus_Samuelsson_author_photo_credit_Kwaku_Alston1.jpg\" alt=\"Marcus_Samuelsson author photo credit Kwaku Alston\" title=\"Marcus_Samuelsson author photo credit Kwaku Alston\" width=\"400\" height=\"570\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46058\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marcus Samuelsson, photo credit: Kwaku Alston\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His summer working aboard a Norwegian cruise ship was life-changing for Samuelsson as he visited ports of call from Venezuela to Saint Petersburg, always in search of new flavors. He writes passionately of the inspiration he got from tasting local street food: Jamaican grilled fish, Puerto Rican \u003cem>camarones de mofongo\u003c/em> and Mexican tacos and how he kept a notebook with ideas for future dishes he might someday create. Aboard ship, he discovered other culinary traditions. “Norwegians were at the top of the heap, and the Filipinos who cleaned and actually ran the boat were at the bottom,” writes Samuelsson, who even though he was black was considered European. The staff mess hall had two menus: one for the Europeans, one for the Filipinos. But Samuelsson always ordered the latter and thus discovered chicken adobo and beef morcon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although, he had traveled the world, Samuelsson recounts the moment his plane touched down in New Yorks’s JFK airport, “First thing I noticed was all the black people…second thing I noticed that no one was looking at me differently. No, scratch that: No one was looking at me at all. Right then, I knew I’d come to the right place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He came to apprentice at New York’s Aquavit in 1994, and by 1995 was its executive chef and the youngest person to win a 3-star rating from the New York Times. In his work at Aquavit, he incorporated the notes he had taken during his travels. “I wanted to find ways to incorporate the efficiencies of Switzerland, the soulfulness of Austria, the reverence for ingredients I learned in France but I wanted to do it with a Swedish accent.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1999, while still working at Aquavit, Samuelsson got an invitation to return to Ethiopia for an article for Gourmet Magazine. There, he met his father and 18 siblings for the first time. He eloquently describes how fell he in love with Ethiopian cuisine, especially its signature \u003cem>berbere\u003c/em> spice blend. “It was both masculine and feminine, shouting for attention and whispering at me to come closer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010 he opened his Harlem restaurant Red Rooster. “I wanted Red Rooster to guard the history of black cooks in America while starting new conversations in food. [My mission] “as a black chef is clear: to document, to preserve, to capture, to inspire and to aspire.” Even though he acknowledges that he is a European immigrant when it comes to racial history, during the 15 years he’s lived in the U.S., he has developed several theories about why kitchens of major American restaurants remain so white, including: \u003cem>The Nest Egg Theory\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The I Didn’t Iron Clothes So You Could Flip Burgers Theory.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samuelsson’s desire to share his good fortune is evident throughout the book. Since he personally struggled with racism as a black chef, Samuelsson is more open to giving people a chance to prove themselves. In 2000, he met Michael Garrett, who is now his executive chef at Red Rooster. Garrett presented himself as a line cook with two restaurants on his resume, Houlihans and Olive Garden. Samuelsson immediately gave him a job at one of his restaurants when he knew that other chefs wouldn’t have even let him in the door. He explains, “It’s not just that I believe in food that is global. I believe there’s a door that opens from inside any great kitchen, a door that opens out and gives us the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/marcus-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/marcus-4.jpg\" alt=\"marcus at jardiniere\" title=\"marcus at jardiniere\" width=\"560\" height=\"550\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46048\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marcus Samuelsson and Traci des Jardins at the Scandinavian lunch in his honor at Jardinière\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Samuelsson at Jardinière last Thursday, where Traci des Jardins’ staff delighted him by preparing a Scandinavian lunch, including \u003cem>roll mops\u003c/em> with cured local sardines and cucumber dill salad and a \u003cem>smørrebrød\u003c/em> trio. Three open faced strips of rye bread topped with veal tongue and tomatoes, salmon, beets and egg and duck liver pate with radishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samuelsson, with an impish smile to match his colorful outfit (orange pants, navy pinstripe vest, checkered scarf and jaunty blue fedora) charmed fans by autographing copies of his book, visiting tables and chatting amiably with diners. After lunch he made a few remarks and answered questions. Highlights: “The kitchen is the new living room.” “What is my favorite kitchen tool? A fish spatula.” And, (unfortunately), “no plans to open a Bay Area restaurant.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/ms-at-j-.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/ms-at-j-.jpg\" alt=\"marcus samuelsson at jardiniere\" title=\"marcus samulesson at jardiniere\" width=\"560\" height=\"444\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46049\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an interview before last week’s lunch at Jardinière, Samuelsson answered BAB’s range of questions, on being an immigrant, developing his fried chicken recipe, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/22/eat-with-your-hands-for-a-sensuous-intimate-mindful-meal/\">eating with the hands\u003c/a> and food bloggers. His comments have been edited for clarity and brevity. (Three of his signature recipes follow.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You describe Sweden as a total knife and fork culture. In Ethiopia, by contrast, food is served family-style and eaten with the hands. Since you are connected to both cultures, do you feel more like a knife and fork person or a hand person?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m definitely a hand person. When you eat with your hands, it requires other things of you. You eat cleaner. With the ritual, you wash your hands more, then dry them on the towel offered to you. It becomes dining on a different level.\u003cbr>\nAt Red Rooster we serve cornbread that people eat with their hands, of course. We also have a lot of communal dishes -- like uptown chowder, for 6-8 people to share. It’s about breaking bread together as a concept. It could be with a knife and fork. It could be eating with hands. To me, it’s about not being stuck in one narrative of dining, but being open to numerous ways. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What ingredient or spice is your favorite flavor of the moment?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love berbere (\u003cem>recipe for the Ethiopian spice blend follows\u003c/em>), because I learned so much about myself and my life through berbere. Before, it was just another great spice blend, but when I started to travel to Ethiopia and understood my own culture and its rituals, I started to really develop an appreciation for berbere. It is the salt and pepper of Ethiopia; you taste it in snacks, in bread, in spiced butter and cheese and of course over fish and meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You are passionate about chasing flavors and combining different elements from the various cultures that you have explored. Do you have advice for home cooks on deepening or combining flavors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key is to be surrounded by diverse sets of people. Ask your friends and coworkers what to do with the pickles and spices from their parents’ or grandparents’ generation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You have personal experience as an immigrant yourself, plus many of the people in the kitchens where you’ve worked have been recent immigrants as well. How would you describe an immigrant’s food journey -- is it about loss, finding comfort, adapting?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It could be different for an immigrant or a refugee. As an immigrant from an upper middle class Scandinavian country, I can go back four times a year if I really want a herring. It’s definitely a privilege, but the loss is still there. When I don’t get my smoked cod roe fix in the morning, I’m still mad. So as an immigrant, I miss my food from a privileged point of view. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refugees have to fight in a different way, because they can’t go back. So a refugee has almost a spiritual context for their longing for a certain dish. As a refugee, it’s more hardcore. You cannot return. You eat something and feel the loss of your family; you eat something and feel the struggle that you had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My naturalization ceremony was an incredible experience that I wish that every American who bashes their own country could see. As immigrants and refugees, we fight everything to become Americans. It was one of the biggest honors of my life. I shared the room with 250 other people who maybe had to escape through six countries before they came here, or had to hide for twenty years before they could even say that they are here. So that’s the reason a dish tastes yummy to that person; what they’re tasting is the 25 years of loss and journey. That makes the food incredibly delicious and very deep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In your book, you had some strong words to say about food bloggers, “…who take the pulse of a restaurant every thirty seconds and sound a death knell if they don’t like the feel of a napkin.” What were you reacting to?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The majority of food bloggers I think are very good. With the democratization of dining, people will be engaged in many different ways. Twitter, The Chronicle, and radio are just alternate platforms. I’m fine with that as long as it is done with sincerity, care and respect for the place, because it took the person a long time to put it all together. But if it’s the opposite of that and bloggers want to trash the fact that you are kind and positive because it’s easier for them to get a click, then I don’t care for that. Because it’s the livelihood of not only the chefs and owners, it’s the busboy’s livelihood too. I can handle criticism. I come from the hospitality field where you train and you respect because hospitality is the highest art form of giving. I think that bloggers are fantastic…they just need to care as much as I would care about the blog they are putting out. Because you don’t just dismiss the big guy, you’re dismissing the dishwasher too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who are your favorite Bay Area chefs?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russell Moore of Camino, who made a great African-inspired menu last night with a lot of soul and spirit.\u003cbr>\nTraci [des Jardins], I’ve known her for a long time and we cooked together 15 years ago. She represents ‘the other’ for me, not just being a male chef. As a member of a minority, you relate to anybody who is ‘other’ and you want that person to succeed.\u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\"> Alice [Waters]\u003c/a> of course. It all started with Alice and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jonathanwaxman.com/\">Jonathan Waxman\u003c/a>. My friend, \u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a>. He’s always pushing it. I admire his guts. I have great respect for chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com/\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>. One of my favorite restaurants in the country is \u003ca href=\"http://slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Charles Phan opened the door for ethnic food with a wine list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You wrote that coming up with a fried chicken recipe was daunting because you didn’t grow up eating it and so many people have made versions that are so good. How did you go about it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By studying, eating a lot of it, taking my time, failing many times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What were you aiming for?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Authorship, by combining respect for the past plus bringing a new nuance to it by curing the chicken the way my grandmother did, by marinating it in buttermilk and coconut milk, frying it on low heat with seasoned oil, using seasoned flour and finishing it off with a shake of a special spice blend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Fried-Yardbird-Red-Rooster_3-11-11__00601.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Fried-Yardbird-Red-Rooster_3-11-11__006011.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Yardbird - Red Rooster recipe\" title=\"Fried Yardbird recipe\" width=\"400\" height=\"602\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46059\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red Rooster's \"Fried Yardbird.\" Photo credit: Paul Brissman\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Marcus Samuelsson’s FRIED YARDBIRD\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 chicken thighs, skin-on\u003cbr>\n4 chicken drumsticks, skin-on\u003cbr>\n1 cup salt\u003cbr>\n8 cups water\u003cbr>\n1 quart buttermilk\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup coconut milk\u003cbr>\n2 garlic cloves, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon Chicken Shake \u003cem>(recipe below)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1/2 pound all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n2 ounces semolina flour\u003cbr>\n1 ounce cornstarch\u003cbr>\n1/2 ounce ground white pepper\u003cbr>\n5 quarts frying oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Mix salt in water, until dissolved. Place chicken in brine and let sit for 1 1/2 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Combine buttermilk, coconut milk, garlic and Chicken Shake then place chicken in marinade overnight in refrigerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Combine all-purpose flour, semolina flour, cornstarch and white pepper to make breading.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove marinating chicken from fridge and allow excess marinade to drip off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Roll chicken in breading, shaking off excess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. In an 8-quart pot, fill with oil and bring to 300 F. Once oil is hot, drop chicken in to the oil and let fry for about 15 minutes (inner temperature should be at least 165 F).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Remove chicken from oil and place on paper towel. Season chicken with Shake, to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Chicken Shake\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 4 cups\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/8 cup ground garlic\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup celery salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup ground cumin\u003cbr>\n1 cup berbere \u003cem>(recipe follows)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 cup smoked spicy paprika\u003cbr>\n1/8 cup kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup ground white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCombine in a mixing bowl and stir until blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Berbere spice blend\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong>\t10 mins\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong>\t5 mins\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong>\t15 mins \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 tsp. coriander seeds\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. fenugreek seeds\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp. whole allspice\u003cbr>\n6 white cardamom pods\u003cbr>\n4 whole cloves\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dried onion flakes\u003cbr>\n5 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed, seeded,\u003cbr>\nand broken into small pieces\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp. paprika\u003cbr>\n2 tsp. kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. ground ginger\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a small skillet, combine coriander seeds, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns, allspice, cardamom pods, and cloves. Toast spices over medium heat, swirling skillet constantly, until fragrant, about 4 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Let cool slightly; transfer to a spice grinder along with onion flakes and grind until fine. Add chilies, and grind with the other spices until fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in paprika, salt, nutmeg, ginger, and cinnamon. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More Info at\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=111259\">\u003cstrong>The Writers' Block at KQED Arts\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMarcus Samuelsson, James Beard Award recipient and winner of Top Chef Masters, reads a passage from his memoir, Yes, Chef. (Running Time: 09:21)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the Reading:\u003c/strong> [audio src=\"http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/165329292/KQED_165329292.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"46043 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=46043","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/18/just-say-yes-to-marcus-samuelsson%e2%80%99s-memoir-yes-chef/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":true,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":2778,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":60},"modified":1353357118,"excerpt":"Marcus Samuelsson, the award-winning chef and cookbook author who seems to be everywhere at once--including NPR’s Fresh Air, The Today Show and the New York Times’ Best Seller List--spent two days last week in the Bay Area, being fêted at Camino and Jardinière, and reading from his new memoir, \"Yes, Chef,\" at Book Passage and Google. Bay Area Bites caught up with Samuelsson at Jardinière for an interview...Fried Yardbird (chicken) recipe included!","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Marcus Samuelsson, the award-winning chef and cookbook author who seems to be everywhere at once--including NPR’s Fresh Air, The Today Show and the New York Times’ Best Seller List--spent two days last week in the Bay Area, being fêted at Camino and Jardinière, and reading from his new memoir, "Yes, Chef," at Book Passage and Google. Bay Area Bites caught up with Samuelsson at Jardinière for an interview...Fried Yardbird (chicken) recipe included!","title":"Just Say Yes to Marcus Samuelsson’s Memoir, \"Yes, Chef\" | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":" Just Say Yes to Marcus Samuelsson’s Memoir, \"Yes, Chef\"","datePublished":"2012-07-18T09:09:56-07:00","dateModified":"2012-11-19T12:31:58-08:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"just-say-yes-to-marcus-samuelsson%e2%80%99s-memoir-yes-chef","status":"publish","path":"/bayareabites/46043/just-say-yes-to-marcus-samuelsson%e2%80%99s-memoir-yes-chef","audioUrl":"http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/165329292/KQED_165329292.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0385342608/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=marcusamue-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0385342608\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/yes_chef1.jpg\" alt=\"Yes, Chef\" title=\"Yes, Chef\" width=\"400\" height=\"608\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46057\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\"Yes, Chef: a memoir.\" Photo courtesy marcussamuelsson.com\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Food and flavors have become my first language. Not English, not Swedish, not Amharic...”\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>– Marcus Samuelsson in \u003cstrong>\"Yes, Chef\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marcussamuelsson.com/\">Marcus Samuelsson\u003c/a>, the award-winning chef and cookbook author who seems to be everywhere at once--including \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/06/28/155909328/marcus-samuelsson-on-becoming-a-top-chef\">NPR’s Fresh Air\u003c/a>, The Today Show and the New York Times’ Best Seller List--spent two days last week in the Bay Area, being fêted at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\">Jardinière\u003c/a>, and reading from his new memoir, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0385342608/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=marcusamue-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0385342608\">\"Yes, Chef,\"\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/\">Book Passage\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxcD8hkdFQM\">Google\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ethiopian-born chef was raised by a loving, adoptive family in Sweden and went on to garner great success at New York’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.aquavit.org/restaurant/newyork/index.asp\">Aquavit\u003c/a> and to open his own restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://redroosterharlem.com/\">Red Rooster\u003c/a>, in Harlem. He recounts his life “chasing flavors” in this compelling memoir, which chronicles his remarkable story, resilient spirit, indomitable work ethic and desire to give back to America, the country he loves and now calls home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samuelsson grew up in the port city of Göteborg with a Swedish family that adopted him and his sister after they recovered from the tuberculosis that took his mother’s life in Addis Ababa. Samuelsson’s love of cooking was kindled in his Swedish grandmother’s kitchen, where he describes, “The yeasty aroma of freshly baked bread or the tang of drying rose hips hit you as soon as you walked in.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With touching candor, he writes that his heart was broken at age 16, when he was kicked off his beloved soccer team because he was deemed “too small.” Samuelsson then decided to become a chef. In the book, he describes how his singular determination helped him work his way up through professional kitchens in Sweden, Switzerland, France and Austria. Besides painting a vivid picture of the rigors of the professional kitchen, he details the subtle discrimination he faced as he tried to advance to a higher level of restaurant, where his Swedish name might get him a meeting with a chef, but seeing his black skin would suddenly change the agenda. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Marcus_Samuelsson_author_photo_credit_Kwaku_Alston1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Marcus_Samuelsson_author_photo_credit_Kwaku_Alston1.jpg\" alt=\"Marcus_Samuelsson author photo credit Kwaku Alston\" title=\"Marcus_Samuelsson author photo credit Kwaku Alston\" width=\"400\" height=\"570\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46058\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marcus Samuelsson, photo credit: Kwaku Alston\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His summer working aboard a Norwegian cruise ship was life-changing for Samuelsson as he visited ports of call from Venezuela to Saint Petersburg, always in search of new flavors. He writes passionately of the inspiration he got from tasting local street food: Jamaican grilled fish, Puerto Rican \u003cem>camarones de mofongo\u003c/em> and Mexican tacos and how he kept a notebook with ideas for future dishes he might someday create. Aboard ship, he discovered other culinary traditions. “Norwegians were at the top of the heap, and the Filipinos who cleaned and actually ran the boat were at the bottom,” writes Samuelsson, who even though he was black was considered European. The staff mess hall had two menus: one for the Europeans, one for the Filipinos. But Samuelsson always ordered the latter and thus discovered chicken adobo and beef morcon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although, he had traveled the world, Samuelsson recounts the moment his plane touched down in New Yorks’s JFK airport, “First thing I noticed was all the black people…second thing I noticed that no one was looking at me differently. No, scratch that: No one was looking at me at all. Right then, I knew I’d come to the right place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He came to apprentice at New York’s Aquavit in 1994, and by 1995 was its executive chef and the youngest person to win a 3-star rating from the New York Times. In his work at Aquavit, he incorporated the notes he had taken during his travels. “I wanted to find ways to incorporate the efficiencies of Switzerland, the soulfulness of Austria, the reverence for ingredients I learned in France but I wanted to do it with a Swedish accent.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1999, while still working at Aquavit, Samuelsson got an invitation to return to Ethiopia for an article for Gourmet Magazine. There, he met his father and 18 siblings for the first time. He eloquently describes how fell he in love with Ethiopian cuisine, especially its signature \u003cem>berbere\u003c/em> spice blend. “It was both masculine and feminine, shouting for attention and whispering at me to come closer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010 he opened his Harlem restaurant Red Rooster. “I wanted Red Rooster to guard the history of black cooks in America while starting new conversations in food. [My mission] “as a black chef is clear: to document, to preserve, to capture, to inspire and to aspire.” Even though he acknowledges that he is a European immigrant when it comes to racial history, during the 15 years he’s lived in the U.S., he has developed several theories about why kitchens of major American restaurants remain so white, including: \u003cem>The Nest Egg Theory\u003c/em> and \u003cem>The I Didn’t Iron Clothes So You Could Flip Burgers Theory.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samuelsson’s desire to share his good fortune is evident throughout the book. Since he personally struggled with racism as a black chef, Samuelsson is more open to giving people a chance to prove themselves. In 2000, he met Michael Garrett, who is now his executive chef at Red Rooster. Garrett presented himself as a line cook with two restaurants on his resume, Houlihans and Olive Garden. Samuelsson immediately gave him a job at one of his restaurants when he knew that other chefs wouldn’t have even let him in the door. He explains, “It’s not just that I believe in food that is global. I believe there’s a door that opens from inside any great kitchen, a door that opens out and gives us the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/marcus-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/marcus-4.jpg\" alt=\"marcus at jardiniere\" title=\"marcus at jardiniere\" width=\"560\" height=\"550\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46048\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Marcus Samuelsson and Traci des Jardins at the Scandinavian lunch in his honor at Jardinière\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Samuelsson at Jardinière last Thursday, where Traci des Jardins’ staff delighted him by preparing a Scandinavian lunch, including \u003cem>roll mops\u003c/em> with cured local sardines and cucumber dill salad and a \u003cem>smørrebrød\u003c/em> trio. Three open faced strips of rye bread topped with veal tongue and tomatoes, salmon, beets and egg and duck liver pate with radishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samuelsson, with an impish smile to match his colorful outfit (orange pants, navy pinstripe vest, checkered scarf and jaunty blue fedora) charmed fans by autographing copies of his book, visiting tables and chatting amiably with diners. After lunch he made a few remarks and answered questions. Highlights: “The kitchen is the new living room.” “What is my favorite kitchen tool? A fish spatula.” And, (unfortunately), “no plans to open a Bay Area restaurant.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/ms-at-j-.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/ms-at-j-.jpg\" alt=\"marcus samuelsson at jardiniere\" title=\"marcus samulesson at jardiniere\" width=\"560\" height=\"444\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46049\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an interview before last week’s lunch at Jardinière, Samuelsson answered BAB’s range of questions, on being an immigrant, developing his fried chicken recipe, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/22/eat-with-your-hands-for-a-sensuous-intimate-mindful-meal/\">eating with the hands\u003c/a> and food bloggers. His comments have been edited for clarity and brevity. (Three of his signature recipes follow.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You describe Sweden as a total knife and fork culture. In Ethiopia, by contrast, food is served family-style and eaten with the hands. Since you are connected to both cultures, do you feel more like a knife and fork person or a hand person?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m definitely a hand person. When you eat with your hands, it requires other things of you. You eat cleaner. With the ritual, you wash your hands more, then dry them on the towel offered to you. It becomes dining on a different level.\u003cbr>\nAt Red Rooster we serve cornbread that people eat with their hands, of course. We also have a lot of communal dishes -- like uptown chowder, for 6-8 people to share. It’s about breaking bread together as a concept. It could be with a knife and fork. It could be eating with hands. To me, it’s about not being stuck in one narrative of dining, but being open to numerous ways. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What ingredient or spice is your favorite flavor of the moment?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love berbere (\u003cem>recipe for the Ethiopian spice blend follows\u003c/em>), because I learned so much about myself and my life through berbere. Before, it was just another great spice blend, but when I started to travel to Ethiopia and understood my own culture and its rituals, I started to really develop an appreciation for berbere. It is the salt and pepper of Ethiopia; you taste it in snacks, in bread, in spiced butter and cheese and of course over fish and meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You are passionate about chasing flavors and combining different elements from the various cultures that you have explored. Do you have advice for home cooks on deepening or combining flavors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The key is to be surrounded by diverse sets of people. Ask your friends and coworkers what to do with the pickles and spices from their parents’ or grandparents’ generation. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You have personal experience as an immigrant yourself, plus many of the people in the kitchens where you’ve worked have been recent immigrants as well. How would you describe an immigrant’s food journey -- is it about loss, finding comfort, adapting?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It could be different for an immigrant or a refugee. As an immigrant from an upper middle class Scandinavian country, I can go back four times a year if I really want a herring. It’s definitely a privilege, but the loss is still there. When I don’t get my smoked cod roe fix in the morning, I’m still mad. So as an immigrant, I miss my food from a privileged point of view. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refugees have to fight in a different way, because they can’t go back. So a refugee has almost a spiritual context for their longing for a certain dish. As a refugee, it’s more hardcore. You cannot return. You eat something and feel the loss of your family; you eat something and feel the struggle that you had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My naturalization ceremony was an incredible experience that I wish that every American who bashes their own country could see. As immigrants and refugees, we fight everything to become Americans. It was one of the biggest honors of my life. I shared the room with 250 other people who maybe had to escape through six countries before they came here, or had to hide for twenty years before they could even say that they are here. So that’s the reason a dish tastes yummy to that person; what they’re tasting is the 25 years of loss and journey. That makes the food incredibly delicious and very deep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In your book, you had some strong words to say about food bloggers, “…who take the pulse of a restaurant every thirty seconds and sound a death knell if they don’t like the feel of a napkin.” What were you reacting to?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The majority of food bloggers I think are very good. With the democratization of dining, people will be engaged in many different ways. Twitter, The Chronicle, and radio are just alternate platforms. I’m fine with that as long as it is done with sincerity, care and respect for the place, because it took the person a long time to put it all together. But if it’s the opposite of that and bloggers want to trash the fact that you are kind and positive because it’s easier for them to get a click, then I don’t care for that. Because it’s the livelihood of not only the chefs and owners, it’s the busboy’s livelihood too. I can handle criticism. I come from the hospitality field where you train and you respect because hospitality is the highest art form of giving. I think that bloggers are fantastic…they just need to care as much as I would care about the blog they are putting out. Because you don’t just dismiss the big guy, you’re dismissing the dishwasher too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who are your favorite Bay Area chefs?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russell Moore of Camino, who made a great African-inspired menu last night with a lot of soul and spirit.\u003cbr>\nTraci [des Jardins], I’ve known her for a long time and we cooked together 15 years ago. She represents ‘the other’ for me, not just being a male chef. As a member of a minority, you relate to anybody who is ‘other’ and you want that person to succeed.\u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\"> Alice [Waters]\u003c/a> of course. It all started with Alice and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jonathanwaxman.com/\">Jonathan Waxman\u003c/a>. My friend, \u003ca href=\"http://www.offalgood.com/\">Chris Cosentino\u003c/a>. He’s always pushing it. I admire his guts. I have great respect for chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com/\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>. One of my favorite restaurants in the country is \u003ca href=\"http://slanteddoor.com/\">The Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Charles Phan opened the door for ethnic food with a wine list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You wrote that coming up with a fried chicken recipe was daunting because you didn’t grow up eating it and so many people have made versions that are so good. How did you go about it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By studying, eating a lot of it, taking my time, failing many times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What were you aiming for?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Authorship, by combining respect for the past plus bringing a new nuance to it by curing the chicken the way my grandmother did, by marinating it in buttermilk and coconut milk, frying it on low heat with seasoned oil, using seasoned flour and finishing it off with a shake of a special spice blend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Fried-Yardbird-Red-Rooster_3-11-11__00601.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/Fried-Yardbird-Red-Rooster_3-11-11__006011.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Yardbird - Red Rooster recipe\" title=\"Fried Yardbird recipe\" width=\"400\" height=\"602\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46059\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red Rooster's \"Fried Yardbird.\" Photo credit: Paul Brissman\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Marcus Samuelsson’s FRIED YARDBIRD\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 chicken thighs, skin-on\u003cbr>\n4 chicken drumsticks, skin-on\u003cbr>\n1 cup salt\u003cbr>\n8 cups water\u003cbr>\n1 quart buttermilk\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup coconut milk\u003cbr>\n2 garlic cloves, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon Chicken Shake \u003cem>(recipe below)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1/2 pound all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n2 ounces semolina flour\u003cbr>\n1 ounce cornstarch\u003cbr>\n1/2 ounce ground white pepper\u003cbr>\n5 quarts frying oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Mix salt in water, until dissolved. Place chicken in brine and let sit for 1 1/2 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Combine buttermilk, coconut milk, garlic and Chicken Shake then place chicken in marinade overnight in refrigerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Combine all-purpose flour, semolina flour, cornstarch and white pepper to make breading.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove marinating chicken from fridge and allow excess marinade to drip off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Roll chicken in breading, shaking off excess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. In an 8-quart pot, fill with oil and bring to 300 F. Once oil is hot, drop chicken in to the oil and let fry for about 15 minutes (inner temperature should be at least 165 F).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Remove chicken from oil and place on paper towel. Season chicken with Shake, to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Chicken Shake\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 4 cups\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/8 cup ground garlic\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup celery salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup ground cumin\u003cbr>\n1 cup berbere \u003cem>(recipe follows)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 cup smoked spicy paprika\u003cbr>\n1/8 cup kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup ground white pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCombine in a mixing bowl and stir until blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Berbere spice blend\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong>\t10 mins\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong>\t5 mins\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong>\t15 mins \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 tsp. coriander seeds\u003cbr>\n1 tsp. fenugreek seeds\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp. whole allspice\u003cbr>\n6 white cardamom pods\u003cbr>\n4 whole cloves\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dried onion flakes\u003cbr>\n5 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed, seeded,\u003cbr>\nand broken into small pieces\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp. paprika\u003cbr>\n2 tsp. kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. ground ginger\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Directions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a small skillet, combine coriander seeds, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns, allspice, cardamom pods, and cloves. Toast spices over medium heat, swirling skillet constantly, until fragrant, about 4 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Let cool slightly; transfer to a spice grinder along with onion flakes and grind until fine. Add chilies, and grind with the other spices until fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in paprika, salt, nutmeg, ginger, and cinnamon. Store in an airtight container for up to 6 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More Info at\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=111259\">\u003cstrong>The Writers' Block at KQED Arts\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMarcus Samuelsson, James Beard Award recipient and winner of Top Chef Masters, reads a passage from his memoir, Yes, Chef. (Running Time: 09:21)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Listen to the Reading:\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/165329292/KQED_165329292.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/46043/just-say-yes-to-marcus-samuelsson%e2%80%99s-memoir-yes-chef","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_10544","bayareabites_10605","bayareabites_9033","bayareabites_10158","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_2008","bayareabites_10606","bayareabites_10608","bayareabites_10609","bayareabites_10545","bayareabites_9961","bayareabites_1251","bayareabites_10612"],"featImg":"bayareabites_46046","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_39132":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_39132","meta":{"index":"posts_1716263798","site":"bayareabites","id":"39132","score":null,"sort":[1329906340000]},"parent":0,"labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"blocks":[],"publishDate":1329906340,"format":"video","disqusTitle":"Eat with Your Hands for a Sensuous, Intimate, Mindful Meal","title":"Eat with Your Hands for a Sensuous, Intimate, Mindful Meal","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Video filmed and Edited by Kim Aronson\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultural misunderstandings always grab my attention—especially when food is involved. So I was hooked the moment I read this recent headline:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ndtv.com/article/india/norway-authorities-take-away-indian-couple-s-kids-say-feeding-with-hands-wrong-167660\">Norway authorities take away Indian couple's kids, say feeding with hands wrong\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although the details of this ongoing story have yet to be fully revealed, it spotlights cultural stereotypes often associated with dining etiquette. While North Americans and Northern Europeans deem that transferring edibles to the mouth with a metal-pronged stick is somehow more refined than using the utensils we were born with, members of the many cultures who have been eating with their hands for thousands of years beg to differ.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tajik-Kurutob-by-Zlerman-wikimedia-commons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tajik-Kurutob-by-Zlerman-wikimedia-commons.jpg\" alt=\"Tajik Kurutob - by Zlerman - wikimedia commons\" title=\"Tajik Kurutob - by Zlerman - wikimedia commons\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39183\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tajik Kurutob-photo courtesy Zlerman-Wikimedia Commons\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Africans, Arabs and Indians (to name only a few) describe in rhapsodic terms the advantages of eating with their fingers: the sensuous connection to the food, the feeling of sharing and community, practicality (in that it’s easier to pluck that last bit of meat off the bones) avoiding waste, even a lingering aroma on the fingers to sustain the memory of a marvelous meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After reading scores of impassioned comments that the above mentioned article garnered, I felt compelled to conduct my own interviews to get a first-hand perspective on this cultural divide, followed by a hands-on lesson (see video clip below.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Vijitha-spicesnaroma.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Vijitha-spicesnaroma.jpg\" alt=\"Vijitha - spicesnaroma\" title=\"Vijitha - spicesnaroma\" width=\"560\" height=\"365\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39180\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>photos courtesy of Vijitha Shyam of Indian food blog \u003ca href=\"http://spicesnaroma.blogspot.com/\">Spices and Aroma\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://culinarysmart.wordpress.com/about/\">Vinita Chopra Jacinto\u003c/a> grew up in Northern India and is now a chef instructor at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. She feels strongly that Indian food tastes best when eaten with one’s fingers. She tells me that Indians eat with their hands because they believe that food is, “more than just protein, carbs and fat it nourishes the mind, intellect and spirit. Eating should be sensual and mindful, employing all the senses: sight, smell, sound, taste and touch. Using your hands gives you a tactile connection with your food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jacinto clarifies some regional differences, “In the North, where breads are commonly consumed, you tear a piece of bread and wrap it around your food. While, in the South, rice is combined with curries, and each mouthful offers a unique blend of flavors. Traditionally in Southern India, plates are made of disposable, recyclable, banana leaves. Using a knife and fork on a banana leaf would shred your plate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Significantly, all cultures that shun silverware maintain a set of rules for eating with the hands. Before the meal, the hands must be washed, wiped or even rubbed with sand, as desert Arabs do. But the foremost rule is that only the right hand is employed for eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The left hand is never used for that,” Jacinto says, “It is considered unclean.” In principle, at least, this is because the left hand is saved for bodily cleaning. Another taboo Jacinto cautions against is \u003cem>jutha\u003c/em>, or double dipping your bread into a communal dish of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The secret to gracefully eating with your fingers,” Jacinto advises, “is to use your thumb. For example, a small amount of rice is formed into a little pile on your plate, blended with one or more bits of curried lentils, vegetables, meat or fish, and then picked up with a twist of the wrist, held onto by the fingers and maneuvered right up to your mouth. But don’t put your fingers into your mouth.” she instructs, “Just use your thumb to push the food inside.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fharzana Elankumaran, founder of \u003ca href=\"http://iheartcurry.com/\">I Heart Curry\u003c/a>, where she teaches Indian cooking classes, also grew up eating with her hands in Bangladesh. “I appreciate this way of eating because you have more control over your food,“ she says. “For example, if you’re eating fish or chicken, you don’t have to worry about cutting with a knife around the bones. When you use your fingers, you can get every last bit of meat and so waste less. It’s an expression of the great respect we have for the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her Indian cooking classes, Elankumaran encourages students to eat with their hands, but finds that it may be a challenge for first-timers. “ Sometimes my students tell me their hands get tired, because they are using a whole new set of muscles.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/rassam.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39140\" title=\"rassam sharif\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/rassam.jpg\" alt=\"rassam sharif\" width=\"560\" height=\"501\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Yemeni dish at Oasis Market and Restaurant\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a shopping trip to Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/oasis-food-market-oakland\">Oasis Market and Restaurant\u003c/a>, I spy manager Rassam Sharif eating his lunch by hand. It’s a Yemeni specialty, \u003cem>fahsa\u003c/em> (cooked boneless beef topped with whipped fenugreek, with a salsa-like sauce). Sharif kindly demonstrates his technique: he tears off a bit of tandoori bread, dips it into the meat and salsa, and brings it to his mouth with 3 fingers. Sharif prefers eating by hand because, he says, “You have more connection to your food. With a spoon, it’s just like shoveling something into your mouth to get full. In Islam, we are taught that the Prophet said to eat from your own side of the dish, slowly, with the right hand, just until you are not hungry. It makes you take your time and be mindful of what you’re eating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough talk, I decide, it’s time for me to get some hands-on tutoring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, my request for cross-cultural dining instruction interests Mostafa Raiss El Fenni, owner of Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.saharaimport.com/\">Sahara Home Décor\u003c/a>. He invites me to stay for lunch and we sit on intricately carved and painted chairs amid his stunning collection of Moroccan carpets, ottomans, embroidered textiles, brass lanterns, conical clay pots and delicate tea glasses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mostafa-and-hand.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39141\" title=\"mostafa and hand\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mostafa-and-hand.jpg\" alt=\"mostafa and hand\" width=\"560\" height=\"334\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostafa Raiss El Fenni -- Moroccan food\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raiss El Fenni, a former Cal student and chemist, whose shop promotes the works of artists from his homeland, tells me, “Eating with your hands is about sharing,” and as the youngest in a family of 12 children, he got a lot of practice doing that. There is an intimacy formed when you all eat from the same dish dipping in small pieces of bread, he explains. “ And if you find a piece of meat close to you that’s especially good, you can share it with your neighbor.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Does each person take the piece of meat and bread onto their own plate?” I ask.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We don’t have individual plates. We are a very collective society. But if we invite guests over who are not familiar with this way of eating, we show them how it’s done.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch my lesson in eating with the hands, Moroccan style:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the college dorm, it was a bit of culture shock for Raiss El Fenni that each student ate his own sandwich. “I couldn’t get used to eating by myself. So, I just waited with my food until they were done, and then said, “Hey, want to share? Eventually they got the idea and would offer to share some of their sandwiches with me too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raiss-El-Fenni also hosts Moroccan parties in colorful Berber tents set up outside his shop. Parties range from mint tea and pastries to an all-out catered feast with live music and belly dancers. And of course, he will encourage your guests to eat with their hands for the true Moroccan experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tanjia-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39136\" title=\"Tanjia \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tanjia-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Tanjia\" width=\"560\" height=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tanjia Moroccan Restaurant\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my tasty lesson, I invite my husband out for a Moroccan meal and tell him I’ll show him how to eat with his hands, so we head over to \u003ca href=\"http://tanjiaoakland.com/\">Tanjia\u003c/a>, an Oakland Moroccan restaurant we haven’t yet tried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We enter the lovely blue and red interior with low couches that let you sit close to your dining companion. But I am disappointed to see the tables set with forks and knives. When I tell the server we hoped to eat in Moroccan fashion, she gladly takes away the silverware and returns with a pot of water and washes our hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first course is an assortment of delicately spiced salads: carrots, eggplant, cucumbers, tomato and bell pepper. Easy to scoop up with chunks of home baked bread. But with the arrival of the lamb and eggplant and chicken with honey and prunes, which are so meltingly tender you can tell they have cooked slowly for hours, my husband chickens-out of the hands-on approach and, to keep him company, I ask for two forks. It’s not so easy to change a lifetimes's eating habits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Jamal Zahid recently took over the restaurant from his brother, Said who started Tanjia in 2000. It has always been a “silverware optional restaurant” but seeing the reaction of a younger generation of customers not used to the traditional Moroccan way of dining sans utensils, Zahid decided-- as an act of hospitality to his guests-- to set the table with forks and knives, a reversal of his brother’s default setting. Personally, Zahid favors eating with the hands as a way to feel connected to the food and savor the meal slowly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/ethiopian-dish.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39137\" title=\"ethiopian dish - Cafe Colucci\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/ethiopian-dish.jpg\" alt=\"ethiopian dish - Cafe Colucci\" width=\"560\" height=\"350\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ethiopian platter and injera - Cafe Colucci\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafecolucci.com/\">Café Colucci Ethiopian restaurant\u003c/a>, by contrast, forks are nowhere in sight. Injera, the spongy, slightly sour, crepe-like bread made from the teff grain, functions as tablecloth, plate and utensil and the food is served family style, atop a large injera circle. “Eating is almost a sacred ritual,” says owner Fetlework Tefferi, whose award-winning restaurant just celebrated its 20th year. Besides the rules of hand washing and right hand only, she adds another from her native Ethiopia, “Once the tray of food is laid on the table, no one rises until all are done and the tray removed. We chew slowly, with closed mouths and a calm dignity. The food is sacred. It’s not polite to rush through your meal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, eating with the hand is more than just a mechanism to get sustenance into the mouth. “On certain occasions,” explains Tefferi, “we feed each other by hand, it’s called \u003cem>goorsha\u003c/em> and it’s a loving act, an endearment. You might feed a child who is not eating enough or a guest you are entertaining. But if I were to make a bite for a man, “she chuckles,” I need to make sure it’s a big, well-packed roll of injera. I guess it’s a macho thing.” She adds, “We usually don’t eat alone. If you are in a restaurant in Ethiopia, for example, and the people at the next table get served first, they will probably ask you to join them or at least take a few bites with them. That kind of sharing is what holds us together.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Fetlework-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39138\" title=\"Fetlework Tefferi\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Fetlework-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Fetlework Tefferi\" width=\"560\" height=\"350\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tefferi demonstrates how to tear off a small square from the rolls of injera in the basket. She describes the technique as “wrap and roll.” You lay your piece of injera over some food and use all your fingers to gather up the filling and twist it into a little packed pouch, which you may dip into several different dishes on the tray. Our platter today has collard greens seasoned with black cumin, cabbage with carrots, potatoes with ginger, garlic and turmeric, lentils in red \u003cem>berbere\u003c/em> sauce, yellow split peas in turmeric sauce, Ethiopian cheese and kitfo, a highly seasoned raw meat dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/close-up-bite.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39139\" title=\"close-up injera\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/close-up-bite.jpg\" alt=\"close-up injera\" width=\"400\" height=\"377\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Children are taught to make a bite of food that’s just big enough to fit in their mouth all at once, without stuffing their cheeks and to eat only with their right hands.” Tefferi remembers her mother training her left-handed brother by having him sit with his left hand behind his back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In the restaurant, we get 97% American diners. If they ask for silverware, I tell them it will be $10 extra,” teases Tefferi, with a twinkle in her eye, “ I just want them to try eating with their hands.” This gracious cultural ambassador wants to encourage more people to appreciate the 3000-year old cuisine of her homeland. “We need to revisit the way people used to eat; how much they cared and believed that whatever they put into their mouths was sacred,” says Tefferi. “The aroma is important too. Even after you wash up at the end of the meal, the scent of the food remains on your hand. Later, you might hold up your hand to someone else and say “Smell my hand, see how good the food was!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(It was and I did.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"Eating with a fork and knife is like making love through an interpreter”\u003cbr>\n -- attributed variously to Prime Minister Nehru and the Shah of Iran\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related links:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/08/146583049/skip-the-spoon-babies-may-eat-better-when-they-feed-themselves?ft=1&f=1053\">A recent study\u003c/a> says babies may eat better when they feed themselves with their fingers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Chad Ward’s pointed history of the fork on \u003ca href=\"http://leitesculinaria.com/1157/writings-the-uncommon-origins-of-the-common-fork.html\">Leite’s Culinaria\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://researcharchive.calacademy.org/research/anthropology/utensil/index.html\">History of Eating Utensils\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","disqusIdentifier":"39132 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=39132","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/22/eat-with-your-hands-for-a-sensuous-intimate-mindful-meal/","stats":{"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"hasAudio":false,"hasPolis":false,"wordCount":2215,"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"paragraphCount":43},"modified":1428812890,"excerpt":"Eating with the hands is more than just a way to maneuver food to the mouth. It embodies cultural values including, a sensuous connection to the food, the feeling of sharing and community, practicality avoiding waste, even prolonging a delicious meal by enjoying the lingering aroma of it on the fingers. Many cultures, such as Indian, Arab and African have dined this way for thousands of years. In a video-clip, the writer receives a hands-on lesson in eating with the hands -- Moroccan style.\r\n","headData":{"twImgId":"","twTitle":"","ogTitle":"","ogImgId":"","twDescription":"","description":"Eating with the hands is more than just a way to maneuver food to the mouth. It embodies cultural values including, a sensuous connection to the food, the feeling of sharing and community, practicality avoiding waste, even prolonging a delicious meal by enjoying the lingering aroma of it on the fingers. Many cultures, such as Indian, Arab and African have dined this way for thousands of years. In a video-clip, the writer receives a hands-on lesson in eating with the hands -- Moroccan style.\r\n","title":"Eat with Your Hands for a Sensuous, Intimate, Mindful Meal | KQED","ogDescription":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Eat with Your Hands for a Sensuous, Intimate, Mindful Meal","datePublished":"2012-02-22T02:25:40-08:00","dateModified":"2015-04-11T21:28:10-07:00","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"eat-with-your-hands-for-a-sensuous-intimate-mindful-meal","status":"publish","videoEmbed":"http://www.youtube.com/embed/njalEx6KGU4","path":"/bayareabites/39132/eat-with-your-hands-for-a-sensuous-intimate-mindful-meal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Video filmed and Edited by Kim Aronson\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultural misunderstandings always grab my attention—especially when food is involved. So I was hooked the moment I read this recent headline:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ndtv.com/article/india/norway-authorities-take-away-indian-couple-s-kids-say-feeding-with-hands-wrong-167660\">Norway authorities take away Indian couple's kids, say feeding with hands wrong\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although the details of this ongoing story have yet to be fully revealed, it spotlights cultural stereotypes often associated with dining etiquette. While North Americans and Northern Europeans deem that transferring edibles to the mouth with a metal-pronged stick is somehow more refined than using the utensils we were born with, members of the many cultures who have been eating with their hands for thousands of years beg to differ.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tajik-Kurutob-by-Zlerman-wikimedia-commons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tajik-Kurutob-by-Zlerman-wikimedia-commons.jpg\" alt=\"Tajik Kurutob - by Zlerman - wikimedia commons\" title=\"Tajik Kurutob - by Zlerman - wikimedia commons\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39183\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tajik Kurutob-photo courtesy Zlerman-Wikimedia Commons\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Africans, Arabs and Indians (to name only a few) describe in rhapsodic terms the advantages of eating with their fingers: the sensuous connection to the food, the feeling of sharing and community, practicality (in that it’s easier to pluck that last bit of meat off the bones) avoiding waste, even a lingering aroma on the fingers to sustain the memory of a marvelous meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After reading scores of impassioned comments that the above mentioned article garnered, I felt compelled to conduct my own interviews to get a first-hand perspective on this cultural divide, followed by a hands-on lesson (see video clip below.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Vijitha-spicesnaroma.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Vijitha-spicesnaroma.jpg\" alt=\"Vijitha - spicesnaroma\" title=\"Vijitha - spicesnaroma\" width=\"560\" height=\"365\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39180\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>photos courtesy of Vijitha Shyam of Indian food blog \u003ca href=\"http://spicesnaroma.blogspot.com/\">Spices and Aroma\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://culinarysmart.wordpress.com/about/\">Vinita Chopra Jacinto\u003c/a> grew up in Northern India and is now a chef instructor at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. She feels strongly that Indian food tastes best when eaten with one’s fingers. She tells me that Indians eat with their hands because they believe that food is, “more than just protein, carbs and fat it nourishes the mind, intellect and spirit. Eating should be sensual and mindful, employing all the senses: sight, smell, sound, taste and touch. Using your hands gives you a tactile connection with your food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jacinto clarifies some regional differences, “In the North, where breads are commonly consumed, you tear a piece of bread and wrap it around your food. While, in the South, rice is combined with curries, and each mouthful offers a unique blend of flavors. Traditionally in Southern India, plates are made of disposable, recyclable, banana leaves. Using a knife and fork on a banana leaf would shred your plate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Significantly, all cultures that shun silverware maintain a set of rules for eating with the hands. Before the meal, the hands must be washed, wiped or even rubbed with sand, as desert Arabs do. But the foremost rule is that only the right hand is employed for eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The left hand is never used for that,” Jacinto says, “It is considered unclean.” In principle, at least, this is because the left hand is saved for bodily cleaning. Another taboo Jacinto cautions against is \u003cem>jutha\u003c/em>, or double dipping your bread into a communal dish of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The secret to gracefully eating with your fingers,” Jacinto advises, “is to use your thumb. For example, a small amount of rice is formed into a little pile on your plate, blended with one or more bits of curried lentils, vegetables, meat or fish, and then picked up with a twist of the wrist, held onto by the fingers and maneuvered right up to your mouth. But don’t put your fingers into your mouth.” she instructs, “Just use your thumb to push the food inside.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fharzana Elankumaran, founder of \u003ca href=\"http://iheartcurry.com/\">I Heart Curry\u003c/a>, where she teaches Indian cooking classes, also grew up eating with her hands in Bangladesh. “I appreciate this way of eating because you have more control over your food,“ she says. “For example, if you’re eating fish or chicken, you don’t have to worry about cutting with a knife around the bones. When you use your fingers, you can get every last bit of meat and so waste less. It’s an expression of the great respect we have for the food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her Indian cooking classes, Elankumaran encourages students to eat with their hands, but finds that it may be a challenge for first-timers. “ Sometimes my students tell me their hands get tired, because they are using a whole new set of muscles.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/rassam.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39140\" title=\"rassam sharif\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/rassam.jpg\" alt=\"rassam sharif\" width=\"560\" height=\"501\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Yemeni dish at Oasis Market and Restaurant\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a shopping trip to Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/oasis-food-market-oakland\">Oasis Market and Restaurant\u003c/a>, I spy manager Rassam Sharif eating his lunch by hand. It’s a Yemeni specialty, \u003cem>fahsa\u003c/em> (cooked boneless beef topped with whipped fenugreek, with a salsa-like sauce). Sharif kindly demonstrates his technique: he tears off a bit of tandoori bread, dips it into the meat and salsa, and brings it to his mouth with 3 fingers. Sharif prefers eating by hand because, he says, “You have more connection to your food. With a spoon, it’s just like shoveling something into your mouth to get full. In Islam, we are taught that the Prophet said to eat from your own side of the dish, slowly, with the right hand, just until you are not hungry. It makes you take your time and be mindful of what you’re eating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough talk, I decide, it’s time for me to get some hands-on tutoring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, my request for cross-cultural dining instruction interests Mostafa Raiss El Fenni, owner of Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.saharaimport.com/\">Sahara Home Décor\u003c/a>. He invites me to stay for lunch and we sit on intricately carved and painted chairs amid his stunning collection of Moroccan carpets, ottomans, embroidered textiles, brass lanterns, conical clay pots and delicate tea glasses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mostafa-and-hand.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39141\" title=\"mostafa and hand\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mostafa-and-hand.jpg\" alt=\"mostafa and hand\" width=\"560\" height=\"334\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostafa Raiss El Fenni -- Moroccan food\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raiss El Fenni, a former Cal student and chemist, whose shop promotes the works of artists from his homeland, tells me, “Eating with your hands is about sharing,” and as the youngest in a family of 12 children, he got a lot of practice doing that. There is an intimacy formed when you all eat from the same dish dipping in small pieces of bread, he explains. “ And if you find a piece of meat close to you that’s especially good, you can share it with your neighbor.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Does each person take the piece of meat and bread onto their own plate?” I ask.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We don’t have individual plates. We are a very collective society. But if we invite guests over who are not familiar with this way of eating, we show them how it’s done.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Watch my lesson in eating with the hands, Moroccan style:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the college dorm, it was a bit of culture shock for Raiss El Fenni that each student ate his own sandwich. “I couldn’t get used to eating by myself. So, I just waited with my food until they were done, and then said, “Hey, want to share? Eventually they got the idea and would offer to share some of their sandwiches with me too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raiss-El-Fenni also hosts Moroccan parties in colorful Berber tents set up outside his shop. Parties range from mint tea and pastries to an all-out catered feast with live music and belly dancers. And of course, he will encourage your guests to eat with their hands for the true Moroccan experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tanjia-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39136\" title=\"Tanjia \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tanjia-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Tanjia\" width=\"560\" height=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tanjia Moroccan Restaurant\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After my tasty lesson, I invite my husband out for a Moroccan meal and tell him I’ll show him how to eat with his hands, so we head over to \u003ca href=\"http://tanjiaoakland.com/\">Tanjia\u003c/a>, an Oakland Moroccan restaurant we haven’t yet tried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We enter the lovely blue and red interior with low couches that let you sit close to your dining companion. But I am disappointed to see the tables set with forks and knives. When I tell the server we hoped to eat in Moroccan fashion, she gladly takes away the silverware and returns with a pot of water and washes our hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first course is an assortment of delicately spiced salads: carrots, eggplant, cucumbers, tomato and bell pepper. Easy to scoop up with chunks of home baked bread. But with the arrival of the lamb and eggplant and chicken with honey and prunes, which are so meltingly tender you can tell they have cooked slowly for hours, my husband chickens-out of the hands-on approach and, to keep him company, I ask for two forks. It’s not so easy to change a lifetimes's eating habits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Jamal Zahid recently took over the restaurant from his brother, Said who started Tanjia in 2000. It has always been a “silverware optional restaurant” but seeing the reaction of a younger generation of customers not used to the traditional Moroccan way of dining sans utensils, Zahid decided-- as an act of hospitality to his guests-- to set the table with forks and knives, a reversal of his brother’s default setting. Personally, Zahid favors eating with the hands as a way to feel connected to the food and savor the meal slowly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/ethiopian-dish.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-39137\" title=\"ethiopian dish - Cafe Colucci\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/ethiopian-dish.jpg\" alt=\"ethiopian dish - Cafe Colucci\" width=\"560\" height=\"350\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ethiopian platter and injera - Cafe Colucci\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafecolucci.com/\">Café Colucci Ethiopian restaurant\u003c/a>, by contrast, forks are nowhere in sight. Injera, the spongy, slightly sour, crepe-like bread made from the teff grain, functions as tablecloth, plate and utensil and the food is served family style, atop a large injera circle. “Eating is almost a sacred ritual,” says owner Fetlework Tefferi, whose award-winning restaurant just celebrated its 20th year. Besides the rules of hand washing and right hand only, she adds another from her native Ethiopia, “Once the tray of food is laid on the table, no one rises until all are done and the tray removed. We chew slowly, with closed mouths and a calm dignity. The food is sacred. It’s not polite to rush through your meal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, eating with the hand is more than just a mechanism to get sustenance into the mouth. “On certain occasions,” explains Tefferi, “we feed each other by hand, it’s called \u003cem>goorsha\u003c/em> and it’s a loving act, an endearment. You might feed a child who is not eating enough or a guest you are entertaining. But if I were to make a bite for a man, “she chuckles,” I need to make sure it’s a big, well-packed roll of injera. I guess it’s a macho thing.” She adds, “We usually don’t eat alone. If you are in a restaurant in Ethiopia, for example, and the people at the next table get served first, they will probably ask you to join them or at least take a few bites with them. That kind of sharing is what holds us together.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Fetlework-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39138\" title=\"Fetlework Tefferi\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Fetlework-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Fetlework Tefferi\" width=\"560\" height=\"350\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tefferi demonstrates how to tear off a small square from the rolls of injera in the basket. She describes the technique as “wrap and roll.” You lay your piece of injera over some food and use all your fingers to gather up the filling and twist it into a little packed pouch, which you may dip into several different dishes on the tray. Our platter today has collard greens seasoned with black cumin, cabbage with carrots, potatoes with ginger, garlic and turmeric, lentils in red \u003cem>berbere\u003c/em> sauce, yellow split peas in turmeric sauce, Ethiopian cheese and kitfo, a highly seasoned raw meat dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/close-up-bite.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-39139\" title=\"close-up injera\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/close-up-bite.jpg\" alt=\"close-up injera\" width=\"400\" height=\"377\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Children are taught to make a bite of food that’s just big enough to fit in their mouth all at once, without stuffing their cheeks and to eat only with their right hands.” Tefferi remembers her mother training her left-handed brother by having him sit with his left hand behind his back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In the restaurant, we get 97% American diners. If they ask for silverware, I tell them it will be $10 extra,” teases Tefferi, with a twinkle in her eye, “ I just want them to try eating with their hands.” This gracious cultural ambassador wants to encourage more people to appreciate the 3000-year old cuisine of her homeland. “We need to revisit the way people used to eat; how much they cared and believed that whatever they put into their mouths was sacred,” says Tefferi. “The aroma is important too. Even after you wash up at the end of the meal, the scent of the food remains on your hand. Later, you might hold up your hand to someone else and say “Smell my hand, see how good the food was!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(It was and I did.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"Eating with a fork and knife is like making love through an interpreter”\u003cbr>\n -- attributed variously to Prime Minister Nehru and the Shah of Iran\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related links:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/02/08/146583049/skip-the-spoon-babies-may-eat-better-when-they-feed-themselves?ft=1&f=1053\">A recent study\u003c/a> says babies may eat better when they feed themselves with their fingers\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Chad Ward’s pointed history of the fork on \u003ca href=\"http://leitesculinaria.com/1157/writings-the-uncommon-origins-of-the-common-fork.html\">Leite’s Culinaria\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://researcharchive.calacademy.org/research/anthropology/utensil/index.html\">History of Eating Utensils\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/39132/eat-with-your-hands-for-a-sensuous-intimate-mindful-meal","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_9860","bayareabites_10158","bayareabites_10159","bayareabites_10168","bayareabites_10167","bayareabites_324","bayareabites_10160","bayareabites_9878","bayareabites_10164","bayareabites_10162","bayareabites_10161","bayareabites_10163"],"featImg":"bayareabites_39183","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":11},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":10},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. 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