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Remember all those afternoon cocktails Darrin served to his boss Larry Tate in their mid-century modern living room? Bardo’s decor is decked out in the same regalia — and with more cocktail options on the menu than even Don Draper could handle. Downstairs, the main floor could also be repurposed from the punctilious set of \u003cem>Mad Men.\u003c/em> The owners, husband and wife team Seth and Jenni Bregman, have conjured up a period appropriate and visually distinctive escape from the 21st century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two chefs run the kitchen, Brian Starkey and Anthony Salguero. They started working together about ten years ago at the Plumed Horse in Saratoga where they became good friends. Years later they became co-chefs at Michel Bistro, a French restaurant that used to inhabit the space Bardo currently occupies. When the Bregmans bought Michel Bistro, Starkey and Salguero decided to team up with them to build their new concept. Starkey, in a recent telephone interview, told me that the inspiration for Bardo arrived, in part, from some books that Seth had from the late 1950s and early 1960s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131332\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-131332\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the Bardo kitchen (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We were thumbing through them, looking for ideas,” Starkey says. “One was literally called How to Throw a Party.” At first, the food looked “comically plain and unappetizing.” But then they came across a dish called “Covered Olives.” He recalled the moment they discovered it. “We were reading about it, and it was basically pimento olives covered in cream cheese and Worcestershire sauce.” They thought It didn’t sound terrible and might even work as a bar snack. The chefs decided to take really good olives, make their own cream cheese, pimentos, along with an in-house Worcestershire sauce, cover the whole thing in homemade breadcrumbs and bake it in the oven. That’s when Starkey realized, “Now we’re onto something.’\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Then we started to make a few other dishes like that,” he explained. Meaning, using fresh California ingredients to update stodgy or novelty recipes from the past. But they didn’t build the entire menu around these vintage dishes. Starkey clarified their overall intent, “We're not trying to be a themed restaurant or bar. We're only in week three, but I think we're getting some good results.” The chef talked me through some of the specific choices they’d made on the upstairs dinner menu. Bardo calls it a supper menu and encourages their diners to share the courses with the entire table. But if you’re eating out on a romantic date night for two, it’s essentially a prix fixe menu ($59 per person).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131333\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-131333\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-800x498.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-800x498.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-160x100.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-768x478.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-1020x635.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-1200x747.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-1180x734.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-960x597.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-240x149.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-375x233.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-520x324.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deviled duck eggs (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For East Bay vegans interested in a seasonal dish, you won’t find a heartier dish than the pumpkin tart appetizer — a variation on a savory pumpkin pie. The pie shell, Starkey explained, is made almost entirely out of pumpkin seeds. “We blend them raw with a tiny bit of coconut flour, water and butter,” he says. The pumpkin mousse is made with tofu and topped with yuba and a bit of fennel. From the first bite, you can taste a melange of global cuisines coming through. Those mid-century cookbooks offered another takeaway for the chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There appeared to be this experimentation with international dishes, which would now be considered clichés,” Starkey noted. “Dishes like chop suey and Hungarian goulash. We looked at those and wanted to branch out.” While developing the menu, his sister had brought back a bag of dried jerk spice from a trip to Saint Lucia. He and Salguero thought a chilled chicken dish would work, inspired by drunken chicken from a Chinese menu. In this case, using the jerk spice made it their own. “We turned the spice into a paste with fresh ginger and scallions. We brine the chickens for six hours and fill them with jerk paste. Then we sous vide them for about two hours — that’s what gives them that shape.” It’s served in little rounds discs with a crisped, puffy wild rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-131334 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-800x894.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"894\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-800x894.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-160x179.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-768x858.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-1020x1140.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-1074x1200.jpg 1074w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-1180x1319.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-960x1073.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-240x268.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-375x419.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-520x581.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prepping apps at Bardo (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I ate at Bardo with a friend, we paired those appetizers with sweet and tangy cocktails. Pilot Maxine ($10) was “refreshing and light with berry notes” as the menu promised. And even with tonic water, lime juice and rhubarb bitters, your nose will have no problem detecting the blackberry-washed gin. Beer, if you’re so inclined, is served by draft, in a bottle or a can. And the wine menu is California-forward, but not exclusively so. But for those seeking sober beverages, there are just as many non-alcoholic cocktails to choose from. We tried the aptly named Loving Sobriety ($8), a tangy combination of blackberry syrup, rosemary, lime juice and seltzer water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131335\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-131335\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Loving Sobriety, one of many non-alcoholic cocktails (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We also shared a dessert that sounds like a questionable choice: apple jello topped by homemade “cooler whip” (a refreshed take on Cool Whip). The idea didn’t come from one of Seth’s cookbooks but was, in fact, inspired by a snack Starkey’s father used to eat when he was a kid. “Growing up, he would make orange Jell-O and with Cool Whip in a bowl,” he says. Starkey admits that it gets mixed reviews. I suggest it’s because of the vadouvan crumb that’s redolent of curry powder. “It's an adventurous combination, but it's a fitting homage to the era.” A fitting mission statement for Bardo itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bardooakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bardo Lounge & Supper Club\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/BLqEGanEnX72\">3343 Lakeshore Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94610\u003cbr>\n510-836-8737\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/bardooakland\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bardo_oakland/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Supper is served in our mezzanine from 5:30pm - 10pm Wednesday - Saturday, 5:30pm - 9pm Sunday. Open seating for cocktails and lounge fare menu.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $$-$$$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"We visit Bardo Lounge in Oakland, an homage in food and style to the late 50s and early 60s.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1545166574,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":1047},"headData":{"title":"Passing Through the Bardo on Lakeshore Avenue in Oakland | KQED","description":"We visit Bardo Lounge in Oakland, an homage in food and style to the late 50s and early 60s.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Passing Through the Bardo on Lakeshore Avenue in Oakland","datePublished":"2018-12-12T17:13:53.000Z","dateModified":"2018-12-18T20:56:14.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"131329 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=131329","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/12/12/passing-through-the-bardo-on-lakeshore-avenue-in-oakland/","disqusTitle":"Passing Through the Bardo on Lakeshore Avenue in Oakland","path":"/bayareabites/131329/passing-through-the-bardo-on-lakeshore-avenue-in-oakland","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Samantha and Darrin Stevens would feel, if not exactly bewitched, right at home at Bardo, a new lounge and supper club on Lakeshore Avenue in Oakland. Remember all those afternoon cocktails Darrin served to his boss Larry Tate in their mid-century modern living room? Bardo’s decor is decked out in the same regalia — and with more cocktail options on the menu than even Don Draper could handle. Downstairs, the main floor could also be repurposed from the punctilious set of \u003cem>Mad Men.\u003c/em> The owners, husband and wife team Seth and Jenni Bregman, have conjured up a period appropriate and visually distinctive escape from the 21st century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two chefs run the kitchen, Brian Starkey and Anthony Salguero. They started working together about ten years ago at the Plumed Horse in Saratoga where they became good friends. Years later they became co-chefs at Michel Bistro, a French restaurant that used to inhabit the space Bardo currently occupies. When the Bregmans bought Michel Bistro, Starkey and Salguero decided to team up with them to build their new concept. Starkey, in a recent telephone interview, told me that the inspiration for Bardo arrived, in part, from some books that Seth had from the late 1950s and early 1960s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131332\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-131332\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5002-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the Bardo kitchen (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We were thumbing through them, looking for ideas,” Starkey says. “One was literally called How to Throw a Party.” At first, the food looked “comically plain and unappetizing.” But then they came across a dish called “Covered Olives.” He recalled the moment they discovered it. “We were reading about it, and it was basically pimento olives covered in cream cheese and Worcestershire sauce.” They thought It didn’t sound terrible and might even work as a bar snack. The chefs decided to take really good olives, make their own cream cheese, pimentos, along with an in-house Worcestershire sauce, cover the whole thing in homemade breadcrumbs and bake it in the oven. That’s when Starkey realized, “Now we’re onto something.’\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Then we started to make a few other dishes like that,” he explained. Meaning, using fresh California ingredients to update stodgy or novelty recipes from the past. But they didn’t build the entire menu around these vintage dishes. Starkey clarified their overall intent, “We're not trying to be a themed restaurant or bar. We're only in week three, but I think we're getting some good results.” The chef talked me through some of the specific choices they’d made on the upstairs dinner menu. Bardo calls it a supper menu and encourages their diners to share the courses with the entire table. But if you’re eating out on a romantic date night for two, it’s essentially a prix fixe menu ($59 per person).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131333\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-131333\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-800x498.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-800x498.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-160x100.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-768x478.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-1020x635.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-1200x747.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-1180x734.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-960x597.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-240x149.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-375x233.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4978-520x324.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Deviled duck eggs (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For East Bay vegans interested in a seasonal dish, you won’t find a heartier dish than the pumpkin tart appetizer — a variation on a savory pumpkin pie. The pie shell, Starkey explained, is made almost entirely out of pumpkin seeds. “We blend them raw with a tiny bit of coconut flour, water and butter,” he says. The pumpkin mousse is made with tofu and topped with yuba and a bit of fennel. From the first bite, you can taste a melange of global cuisines coming through. Those mid-century cookbooks offered another takeaway for the chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There appeared to be this experimentation with international dishes, which would now be considered clichés,” Starkey noted. “Dishes like chop suey and Hungarian goulash. We looked at those and wanted to branch out.” While developing the menu, his sister had brought back a bag of dried jerk spice from a trip to Saint Lucia. He and Salguero thought a chilled chicken dish would work, inspired by drunken chicken from a Chinese menu. In this case, using the jerk spice made it their own. “We turned the spice into a paste with fresh ginger and scallions. We brine the chickens for six hours and fill them with jerk paste. Then we sous vide them for about two hours — that’s what gives them that shape.” It’s served in little rounds discs with a crisped, puffy wild rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-131334 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-800x894.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"894\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-800x894.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-160x179.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-768x858.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-1020x1140.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-1074x1200.jpg 1074w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-1180x1319.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-960x1073.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-240x268.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-375x419.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_5012-520x581.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prepping apps at Bardo (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I ate at Bardo with a friend, we paired those appetizers with sweet and tangy cocktails. Pilot Maxine ($10) was “refreshing and light with berry notes” as the menu promised. And even with tonic water, lime juice and rhubarb bitters, your nose will have no problem detecting the blackberry-washed gin. Beer, if you’re so inclined, is served by draft, in a bottle or a can. And the wine menu is California-forward, but not exclusively so. But for those seeking sober beverages, there are just as many non-alcoholic cocktails to choose from. We tried the aptly named Loving Sobriety ($8), a tangy combination of blackberry syrup, rosemary, lime juice and seltzer water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131335\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-131335\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/11/IMG_4985-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Loving Sobriety, one of many non-alcoholic cocktails (Scott Carroll)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We also shared a dessert that sounds like a questionable choice: apple jello topped by homemade “cooler whip” (a refreshed take on Cool Whip). The idea didn’t come from one of Seth’s cookbooks but was, in fact, inspired by a snack Starkey’s father used to eat when he was a kid. “Growing up, he would make orange Jell-O and with Cool Whip in a bowl,” he says. Starkey admits that it gets mixed reviews. I suggest it’s because of the vadouvan crumb that’s redolent of curry powder. “It's an adventurous combination, but it's a fitting homage to the era.” A fitting mission statement for Bardo itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bardooakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bardo Lounge & Supper Club\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/BLqEGanEnX72\">3343 Lakeshore Ave.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94610\u003cbr>\n510-836-8737\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/bardooakland\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bardo_oakland/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Supper is served in our mezzanine from 5:30pm - 10pm Wednesday - Saturday, 5:30pm - 9pm Sunday. Open seating for cocktails and lounge fare menu.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $$-$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/131329/passing-through-the-bardo-on-lakeshore-avenue-in-oakland","authors":["42"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1844","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"featImg":"bayareabites_131331","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_131123":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_131123","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"131123","score":null,"sort":[1541009711000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"isla-vida-looks-to-make-waves-of-impact-in-the-fillmore","title":"Isla Vida Looks to Make Waves of Impact in the Fillmore","publishDate":1541009711,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The Cubano served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.islavidasf.com\">Isla Vida\u003c/a>, a recently opened Caribbean-centric restaurant in the Fillmore, is a profound sandwich. It’s packed with tender morsels of pork from Isla Vida’s impressive wood-fired contraption, a two-part specimen that was specially brought in from an expert producer in Bellingham, Washington. It is believed to be the only one of its kind in San Francisco — both a rotisserie capable of spinning 70 chickens at a time under the heat of cherry, almond and/or oak wood (depends on the day), while having an attached wood-fired grill. The invention is impressive and the most entertainment you’ll ever have watching meat roll around in a circle for hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That sandwich is also profound in how it’s the centerpiece for a concept that aspires to be, and hopefully becomes, a centerpiece for one of San Francisco’s central and most historically rich neighborhoods. It’s also one of San Francisco’s most rapidly changing neighborhoods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131126\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00794-e1541007585128.jpg\" alt=\"Isla Vida's chef-owner Jay Foster and co-owner Matthew Washington.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Isla Vida's chef-owner Jay Foster and co-owner Matthew Washington. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While chatting recently with chef-owner Jay Foster and co-owner Matthew Washington, the subject of how Isla Vida is one of the select few black-owned businesses in the Fillmore — an area that once was considered the “Harlem of the West” — inevitably led to that oft-maligned “G” word in San Francisco: gentrification. Billie Holiday, Dizzy Gillespie and Charlie Parker all performed here. Black-owned restaurants previously thrived with that jazz scene. Now, according to Foster and Washington, there is Bruno’s and Sheba Piano Lounge, which is also an Ethiopian restaurant. Make it a trio now with Isla Vida’s opening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In present day San Francisco, this stretch of Fillmore roughly between Golden Gate Avenue and Geary Blvd., is best known for being the home of contemporary California cuisine prodigies (and siblings) State Bird Provisions and the Progress, plus Boba Guys (self explanatory specialty), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a> (a market/café with homemade pasta and cookies), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a> (destination tasting menu spot), Fat Angel (craft beer gastropub with a famous mac ‘n’ cheese), and Wise Sons (bagelry/Jewish deli). Starbucks is the main gathering place for the thoroughfare now, residing across the street from a somewhat new and sleek apartment complex with a spiffy Fitness SF inside it. Meanwhile, Sheba’s Ethiopian restaurant is the only jazz choice. The Fillmore Heritage Center and its Yoshi’s jazz club closed a few years ago and is now involved in all sorts of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfexaminer.com/city-attorney-sues-developer-vacant-fillmore-heritage-center-unpaid-loan/\">unpaid loan lawsuits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before Isla Vida opened, it was Black Bark BBQ, a black-owned BBQ spot whose proprietor, David Lawrence, also owned the upscale Southern restaurant, 1300 on Fillmore, across the street. Both closed in the past year. It all just goes on for the neighborhood, while the neighboring Divisadero and Hayes Valley areas, that once were considered part of the Western Addition, are now booming with hip new restaurants, cafes, boutiques and bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00720-e1541008223417.jpg\" alt=\"Co-owner Matthew Washington preps at the bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-owner Matthew Washington preps at the bar. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Call it the g-word or not, but there is no ignoring the facts that since “urban renewal” began in the mid 20th century, the Fillmore’s heyday, San Francisco’s African American population has dwindled by more than 10%, which is a staggering figure for a city that doesn’t even have a population of 900,000 people. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ktvu.com/news/san-franciscos-black-population-is-less-than-5-percent-exodus-has-been-steady\">This 2016 article\u003c/a> by KTVU, including interviews with former Mayor Willie Brown, perfectly explains the changing dynamics for this neighborhood and for African Americans as a whole in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foster sees these numbers and then sees a decline in more than just residential figures for the city: “The hardest part of that is losing the voice as a community. When you lose your voice, then you lose your representation. And then when you lose your representation, then you get things that are just misrepresented or done incorrectly, like when the city invested all this money across the street to create the Heritage Center.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, another missing part of San Francisco’s wonderful diversity is a lack of Cubano sandwiches, tostones and many other Caribbean food specialties. Just do a Yelp search (not counting Isla Vida and sorting through unreported closings and pop-ups) and you’ll find six other restaurants in all of San Francisco serving a Caribbean menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00752-e1541008797211.jpg\" alt=\"The Cubano comes with pickled vegetables, mixed greens and shoestring fries.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-131136\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cubano comes with pickled vegetables, mixed greens and shoestring fries. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there is that fantastic Cubano ($13 and comes with pickled vegetables, mixed greens and shoestring fries), served on a locally made Bakers of Paris soft roll and livened up with just a hint of mustard and a contrast of Manchego cheese and mustard to the meats. Outside of the Cubano’s pork, the other wood-fired oven headliners are the two chicken preparations: “Cuban chicken” with a mojo sauce made of garlic, citrus and oregano and then the jerk chicken. The latter uses the hard-to-find, only grown in Jamaica Scotch Bonnet pepper as one of many spices in the seasoning. “It’s not just spice,” explains Foster, “it’s almost really hard to describe. I think it’s almost just pure umami.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both chickens are $8 for a quarter piece, $12 for a half and $18 for a whole. Diners can also opt for the $12.50 chicken plate that is a full meal of a quarter chicken, congri (rice and black beans), mixed greens, pickled vegetables and a choice of plantain styles (“tostones” are savory crispy green plantains; “maduros” are sweet plantains like bananas in bananas Foster).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131130\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00756-e1541007974336.jpg\" alt='Plantains in the \"tostones\" style.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plantains in the \"tostones\" style. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The jerk seasoning and wood-fired oven also team up for the preparation of a whole red snapper ($35) stuffed with vegetables (currently carrot, cauliflower and okra) and the menu’s vegan entrée offering, a jerk jackfruit plate ($12) served over plantains. Foster also makes a jerk spice aioli for slathering on a soft roll and layering grilled rib-eye, Manchego and caramelized onions for the Cubano’s beefy sibling ($16).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rotisserie-grill resides in the rear kitchen, partially hidden from view and partially visible behind a rustic wooden table where final plating takes place. There are tropical floral prints on the ceiling panels and hanging flora and fauna all across the room, with the bar and register to one side and seating for roughly 45 guests scattered across the other side of the space with small wooden tables, high tops with bar stools, and a communal table. It’s a breezy, relaxed vibe but this is definitely not the Tonga Room or Cha Cha Cha in terms of tropical decor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131133\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131133\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00786-e1541008376448.jpg\" alt=\"The rotisserie-grill in Isla Vida's kitchen is capable of spinning 70 chickens at a time.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The rotisserie-grill in Isla Vida's kitchen is capable of spinning 70 chickens at a time. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That’s because Foster, Washington and their third partner on the project, Erin Traylor, aren’t looking to make “Isla Vida” a representation of resort life. They’re trying to capture real life on the islands, full of breezes and jerk seasoning, but free of Infiniti pools and hammocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The project was a long time coming for Foster, who first came up with the idea of an Afro-Caribbean restaurant 15 years ago (the originally planned name was “Rude Boy”). Though it took over a decade to get the idea to be a reality, Foster never gave up: “Fillmore is where we both wanted to be for a long time.” Washington is from the neighborhood and still lives there, and Foster always wanted to help the Fillmore capture some of the cultural magic that it has lost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foster is one of the most prolific front and back of house San Francisco industry veterans who most San Franciscans don’t really know much about He could be a celebrity chef but isn’t a celebrity chef. The North Carolina native came to San Francisco in the 90s for a PG&E job doing survey work that tired him out quickly because it was “really, really boring” and forced him to live out of a suitcase with frequent travel. So, he studied graphic design at the Academy of Art while also working as a server or bartender at several Bay Area fine dining heavyweights like Jardinière and Zuni Cafe. He missed the home cooking of the Carolinas though and always noticed a dearth of “Americana” restaurants in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131131\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131131\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00736-e1541008081133.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Foster plates sauce for the tostones in his kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Foster plates sauce for the tostones in his kitchen. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before solving that problem, he co-founded Bernal Heights’ beloved \u003ca href=\"https://www.emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a>, an Americana version of an Italian red sauce joint. Then Foster opened his deeply personal Divisadero southern Americana concept, Blue Jay Cafe (get the Jay connection?), in the space that is now Brenda’s Meat & Three. Blue Jay represented Foster’s shift to being both a chef and owner, and after two years there, he sold his shares of the Blue Jay to his fellow partners and opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmerbrownsf.com/\">farmerbrown\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin in 2006 with his wife Deanna. farmerbrown is one of a select few sit-down soul food restaurants in San Francisco and has channeled its success into \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2018/10/3/17932774/farmerbrown-opens-sfo-san-francisco-international-airport\">a location in SFO’s Terminal 1\u003c/a> (chosen for all of Delta’s Atlanta passengers there) and the popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.littleskilletsf.com/\">Little Skillet\u003c/a> chicken and waffles takeout window in SoMa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only is farmerbrown one of the only longstanding soul food restaurants in San Francisco — it’s one of the few longstanding restaurants to make it in the Tenderloin’s challenging core.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It certainly hasn’t been easy for Foster and his team there, where Washington was the lead server for the past four years and Traylor is the operations manager. There is no denying that the Tenderloin, and its frequent needles and feces on the sidewalk, is a tough place to operate. “It’s embarrassing,” Foster tells us, “For a restaurant owner, there’s no way to be able to survive in that environment. He has seen a real change for the worse in the area in the past three years and has a front row seat at the neighborhood’s often grimy street life. “You’re actually really afraid. It’s just not a good feeling. It’s sickening. I think that’s a good word for it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131134\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00715-e1541008555200.jpg\" alt=\"Isla Vida's bright exterior is hard to miss on Fillmore.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Isla Vida's bright exterior is hard to miss on Fillmore. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the Fillmore next on his agenda, it’s a good thing that Foster knows about neighborhood dynamics from farmerbrown. He also understands that San Francisco isn’t trivial as a restaurant owner, regardless of the neighborhood. He’s learned from farmerbrown to “try to not to do too much. Try to keep it small and simple. Try to focus on a few things and try to do them really well.” That’s why the menu is so concise at Isla Vida and follows the fast-casual counter-service trend that is sweeping across the city like Karl the Fog in July. He knows it isn’t ideal, but it’s the only rational thing to do: “Trying to operate and do a full service restaurant in San Francisco is tantamount to suicide because it’s just too expensive — the cost of labor [where] you have to pay a server $15 bucks an hour, which I feel like they deserve — and I feel like everybody deserves that living wage, but that just means we have to evolve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant isn’t just another corporate fast-casual spot, though. First of all, it has only one investor (a fellow African American small business owner in the neighborhood) and received its main funding from a Kickstarter campaign. Second, there is none of the ubiquitous menu customization here — as in, no option for wraps, salads or quinoa bowls. Third, Isla Vida is geared just as much to be a restaurant as it is to just be a safe, helpful place for the neighborhood community. Washington hopes to see local kids doing homework there. The restaurant hires only within the community. Even the upcoming food delivery from Isla Vida will bypass the popular apps and be hand delivered by restaurant staff. Washington puts the multi-function approach of Isla Vida with the community perfectly: “That’s 2018. Whatever you do right now, you can’t just be linear. You have to be multifaceted. And it has to be authentic.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131135\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131135\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00725-e1541008668666.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at Isla Vida is small, but mighty.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at Isla Vida is small but mighty. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Isla Vida team has done their homework about Caribbean cuisine. Washington and Foster visited Cuba and absorbed everything they could from that trip, both in terms of how the locals cooked with their own produce while being restricted by Cuba’s tough embargoes, and the deep history of their African ancestors. So, with Isla Vida, Foster is simply “trying to follow the footsteps of our ancestors culinarily. The food of the Diaspora is very similar…it just depends on where the boat stopped.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, diners will see how soul food really is an extension of Caribbean food, just like Foster and Washington did in their research. Instead of shrimp and grits, Foster uses Isla Vida’s grill for garlic shrimp ($15.95) and serves it over congri. Elsewhere from the grill come BBQ ribs, a specialty you might expect from a soul food restaurant like farmerbrown, but here they’re slathered in a guava-fortified sauce ($16.95). Right now dessert means churros with chocolate sauce or grilled pineapple with coconut ice cream and caramel (both $6). Drinks focus on tropical items (coconut water, ginger beer, etc…) and smoothies, but soon will add beer, wine and coffee service. Weekend brunch will also be introduced soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can Isla Vida solve all of San Francisco’s problems from the Tenderloin to the Fillmore? Of course not. But it’s going to do its very best to give a dwindling African American population in the city something to take pride in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Isla Vida is aspiring to be an anchor to the past for a rapidly changing Fillmore and San Francisco, one jerk chicken and one smile at a time. “We’re trying to touch on a few of the little things that we really like, try to represent it really well and hopefully make our ancestors proud.” It’s a tall task for a small place but a lot of heart and a destination-worthy Cubano can go a long ways. Isla Vida seems primed to make some big waves of impact in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.islavidasf.com\">Isla Vida\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n1325 Fillmore St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n94115\u003cbr>\n415-678-5171\u003cbr>\nHours: Wednesday-Sunday, 11AM-8PM. Weekend brunch service is coming soon.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $-$$\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/islavida.415\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/islavidasf/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/IslaVidaSF\">Twitter\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"An Afro-Caribbean Rotisserie and Grill Newcomer Aspires To Be a Fillmore Neighborhood Centerpiece","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1542823801,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":2561},"headData":{"title":"Isla Vida Looks to Make Waves of Impact in the Fillmore | KQED","description":"An Afro-Caribbean Rotisserie and Grill Newcomer Aspires To Be a Fillmore Neighborhood Centerpiece","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Isla Vida Looks to Make Waves of Impact in the Fillmore","datePublished":"2018-10-31T18:15:11.000Z","dateModified":"2018-11-21T18:10:01.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"131123 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=131123","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/10/31/isla-vida-looks-to-make-waves-of-impact-in-the-fillmore/","disqusTitle":"Isla Vida Looks to Make Waves of Impact in the Fillmore","path":"/bayareabites/131123/isla-vida-looks-to-make-waves-of-impact-in-the-fillmore","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Cubano served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.islavidasf.com\">Isla Vida\u003c/a>, a recently opened Caribbean-centric restaurant in the Fillmore, is a profound sandwich. It’s packed with tender morsels of pork from Isla Vida’s impressive wood-fired contraption, a two-part specimen that was specially brought in from an expert producer in Bellingham, Washington. It is believed to be the only one of its kind in San Francisco — both a rotisserie capable of spinning 70 chickens at a time under the heat of cherry, almond and/or oak wood (depends on the day), while having an attached wood-fired grill. The invention is impressive and the most entertainment you’ll ever have watching meat roll around in a circle for hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That sandwich is also profound in how it’s the centerpiece for a concept that aspires to be, and hopefully becomes, a centerpiece for one of San Francisco’s central and most historically rich neighborhoods. It’s also one of San Francisco’s most rapidly changing neighborhoods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131126\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131126\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00794-e1541007585128.jpg\" alt=\"Isla Vida's chef-owner Jay Foster and co-owner Matthew Washington.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Isla Vida's chef-owner Jay Foster and co-owner Matthew Washington. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While chatting recently with chef-owner Jay Foster and co-owner Matthew Washington, the subject of how Isla Vida is one of the select few black-owned businesses in the Fillmore — an area that once was considered the “Harlem of the West” — inevitably led to that oft-maligned “G” word in San Francisco: gentrification. Billie Holiday, Dizzy Gillespie and Charlie Parker all performed here. Black-owned restaurants previously thrived with that jazz scene. Now, according to Foster and Washington, there is Bruno’s and Sheba Piano Lounge, which is also an Ethiopian restaurant. Make it a trio now with Isla Vida’s opening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In present day San Francisco, this stretch of Fillmore roughly between Golden Gate Avenue and Geary Blvd., is best known for being the home of contemporary California cuisine prodigies (and siblings) State Bird Provisions and the Progress, plus Boba Guys (self explanatory specialty), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a> (a market/café with homemade pasta and cookies), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a> (destination tasting menu spot), Fat Angel (craft beer gastropub with a famous mac ‘n’ cheese), and Wise Sons (bagelry/Jewish deli). Starbucks is the main gathering place for the thoroughfare now, residing across the street from a somewhat new and sleek apartment complex with a spiffy Fitness SF inside it. Meanwhile, Sheba’s Ethiopian restaurant is the only jazz choice. The Fillmore Heritage Center and its Yoshi’s jazz club closed a few years ago and is now involved in all sorts of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfexaminer.com/city-attorney-sues-developer-vacant-fillmore-heritage-center-unpaid-loan/\">unpaid loan lawsuits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before Isla Vida opened, it was Black Bark BBQ, a black-owned BBQ spot whose proprietor, David Lawrence, also owned the upscale Southern restaurant, 1300 on Fillmore, across the street. Both closed in the past year. It all just goes on for the neighborhood, while the neighboring Divisadero and Hayes Valley areas, that once were considered part of the Western Addition, are now booming with hip new restaurants, cafes, boutiques and bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131132\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00720-e1541008223417.jpg\" alt=\"Co-owner Matthew Washington preps at the bar.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Co-owner Matthew Washington preps at the bar. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Call it the g-word or not, but there is no ignoring the facts that since “urban renewal” began in the mid 20th century, the Fillmore’s heyday, San Francisco’s African American population has dwindled by more than 10%, which is a staggering figure for a city that doesn’t even have a population of 900,000 people. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ktvu.com/news/san-franciscos-black-population-is-less-than-5-percent-exodus-has-been-steady\">This 2016 article\u003c/a> by KTVU, including interviews with former Mayor Willie Brown, perfectly explains the changing dynamics for this neighborhood and for African Americans as a whole in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foster sees these numbers and then sees a decline in more than just residential figures for the city: “The hardest part of that is losing the voice as a community. When you lose your voice, then you lose your representation. And then when you lose your representation, then you get things that are just misrepresented or done incorrectly, like when the city invested all this money across the street to create the Heritage Center.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, another missing part of San Francisco’s wonderful diversity is a lack of Cubano sandwiches, tostones and many other Caribbean food specialties. Just do a Yelp search (not counting Isla Vida and sorting through unreported closings and pop-ups) and you’ll find six other restaurants in all of San Francisco serving a Caribbean menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00752-e1541008797211.jpg\" alt=\"The Cubano comes with pickled vegetables, mixed greens and shoestring fries.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-131136\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Cubano comes with pickled vegetables, mixed greens and shoestring fries. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there is that fantastic Cubano ($13 and comes with pickled vegetables, mixed greens and shoestring fries), served on a locally made Bakers of Paris soft roll and livened up with just a hint of mustard and a contrast of Manchego cheese and mustard to the meats. Outside of the Cubano’s pork, the other wood-fired oven headliners are the two chicken preparations: “Cuban chicken” with a mojo sauce made of garlic, citrus and oregano and then the jerk chicken. The latter uses the hard-to-find, only grown in Jamaica Scotch Bonnet pepper as one of many spices in the seasoning. “It’s not just spice,” explains Foster, “it’s almost really hard to describe. I think it’s almost just pure umami.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both chickens are $8 for a quarter piece, $12 for a half and $18 for a whole. Diners can also opt for the $12.50 chicken plate that is a full meal of a quarter chicken, congri (rice and black beans), mixed greens, pickled vegetables and a choice of plantain styles (“tostones” are savory crispy green plantains; “maduros” are sweet plantains like bananas in bananas Foster).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131130\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00756-e1541007974336.jpg\" alt='Plantains in the \"tostones\" style.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plantains in the \"tostones\" style. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The jerk seasoning and wood-fired oven also team up for the preparation of a whole red snapper ($35) stuffed with vegetables (currently carrot, cauliflower and okra) and the menu’s vegan entrée offering, a jerk jackfruit plate ($12) served over plantains. Foster also makes a jerk spice aioli for slathering on a soft roll and layering grilled rib-eye, Manchego and caramelized onions for the Cubano’s beefy sibling ($16).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rotisserie-grill resides in the rear kitchen, partially hidden from view and partially visible behind a rustic wooden table where final plating takes place. There are tropical floral prints on the ceiling panels and hanging flora and fauna all across the room, with the bar and register to one side and seating for roughly 45 guests scattered across the other side of the space with small wooden tables, high tops with bar stools, and a communal table. It’s a breezy, relaxed vibe but this is definitely not the Tonga Room or Cha Cha Cha in terms of tropical decor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131133\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131133\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00786-e1541008376448.jpg\" alt=\"The rotisserie-grill in Isla Vida's kitchen is capable of spinning 70 chickens at a time.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The rotisserie-grill in Isla Vida's kitchen is capable of spinning 70 chickens at a time. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That’s because Foster, Washington and their third partner on the project, Erin Traylor, aren’t looking to make “Isla Vida” a representation of resort life. They’re trying to capture real life on the islands, full of breezes and jerk seasoning, but free of Infiniti pools and hammocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The project was a long time coming for Foster, who first came up with the idea of an Afro-Caribbean restaurant 15 years ago (the originally planned name was “Rude Boy”). Though it took over a decade to get the idea to be a reality, Foster never gave up: “Fillmore is where we both wanted to be for a long time.” Washington is from the neighborhood and still lives there, and Foster always wanted to help the Fillmore capture some of the cultural magic that it has lost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Foster is one of the most prolific front and back of house San Francisco industry veterans who most San Franciscans don’t really know much about He could be a celebrity chef but isn’t a celebrity chef. The North Carolina native came to San Francisco in the 90s for a PG&E job doing survey work that tired him out quickly because it was “really, really boring” and forced him to live out of a suitcase with frequent travel. So, he studied graphic design at the Academy of Art while also working as a server or bartender at several Bay Area fine dining heavyweights like Jardinière and Zuni Cafe. He missed the home cooking of the Carolinas though and always noticed a dearth of “Americana” restaurants in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131131\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131131\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00736-e1541008081133.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Foster plates sauce for the tostones in his kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Foster plates sauce for the tostones in his kitchen. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Before solving that problem, he co-founded Bernal Heights’ beloved \u003ca href=\"https://www.emmysspaghettishack.com/\">Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack\u003c/a>, an Americana version of an Italian red sauce joint. Then Foster opened his deeply personal Divisadero southern Americana concept, Blue Jay Cafe (get the Jay connection?), in the space that is now Brenda’s Meat & Three. Blue Jay represented Foster’s shift to being both a chef and owner, and after two years there, he sold his shares of the Blue Jay to his fellow partners and opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmerbrownsf.com/\">farmerbrown\u003c/a> in the Tenderloin in 2006 with his wife Deanna. farmerbrown is one of a select few sit-down soul food restaurants in San Francisco and has channeled its success into \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2018/10/3/17932774/farmerbrown-opens-sfo-san-francisco-international-airport\">a location in SFO’s Terminal 1\u003c/a> (chosen for all of Delta’s Atlanta passengers there) and the popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.littleskilletsf.com/\">Little Skillet\u003c/a> chicken and waffles takeout window in SoMa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not only is farmerbrown one of the only longstanding soul food restaurants in San Francisco — it’s one of the few longstanding restaurants to make it in the Tenderloin’s challenging core.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It certainly hasn’t been easy for Foster and his team there, where Washington was the lead server for the past four years and Traylor is the operations manager. There is no denying that the Tenderloin, and its frequent needles and feces on the sidewalk, is a tough place to operate. “It’s embarrassing,” Foster tells us, “For a restaurant owner, there’s no way to be able to survive in that environment. He has seen a real change for the worse in the area in the past three years and has a front row seat at the neighborhood’s often grimy street life. “You’re actually really afraid. It’s just not a good feeling. It’s sickening. I think that’s a good word for it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131134\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00715-e1541008555200.jpg\" alt=\"Isla Vida's bright exterior is hard to miss on Fillmore.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Isla Vida's bright exterior is hard to miss on Fillmore. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the Fillmore next on his agenda, it’s a good thing that Foster knows about neighborhood dynamics from farmerbrown. He also understands that San Francisco isn’t trivial as a restaurant owner, regardless of the neighborhood. He’s learned from farmerbrown to “try to not to do too much. Try to keep it small and simple. Try to focus on a few things and try to do them really well.” That’s why the menu is so concise at Isla Vida and follows the fast-casual counter-service trend that is sweeping across the city like Karl the Fog in July. He knows it isn’t ideal, but it’s the only rational thing to do: “Trying to operate and do a full service restaurant in San Francisco is tantamount to suicide because it’s just too expensive — the cost of labor [where] you have to pay a server $15 bucks an hour, which I feel like they deserve — and I feel like everybody deserves that living wage, but that just means we have to evolve.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant isn’t just another corporate fast-casual spot, though. First of all, it has only one investor (a fellow African American small business owner in the neighborhood) and received its main funding from a Kickstarter campaign. Second, there is none of the ubiquitous menu customization here — as in, no option for wraps, salads or quinoa bowls. Third, Isla Vida is geared just as much to be a restaurant as it is to just be a safe, helpful place for the neighborhood community. Washington hopes to see local kids doing homework there. The restaurant hires only within the community. Even the upcoming food delivery from Isla Vida will bypass the popular apps and be hand delivered by restaurant staff. Washington puts the multi-function approach of Isla Vida with the community perfectly: “That’s 2018. Whatever you do right now, you can’t just be linear. You have to be multifaceted. And it has to be authentic.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131135\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131135\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00725-e1541008668666.jpg\" alt=\"The menu at Isla Vida is small, but mighty.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu at Isla Vida is small but mighty. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Isla Vida team has done their homework about Caribbean cuisine. Washington and Foster visited Cuba and absorbed everything they could from that trip, both in terms of how the locals cooked with their own produce while being restricted by Cuba’s tough embargoes, and the deep history of their African ancestors. So, with Isla Vida, Foster is simply “trying to follow the footsteps of our ancestors culinarily. The food of the Diaspora is very similar…it just depends on where the boat stopped.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, diners will see how soul food really is an extension of Caribbean food, just like Foster and Washington did in their research. Instead of shrimp and grits, Foster uses Isla Vida’s grill for garlic shrimp ($15.95) and serves it over congri. Elsewhere from the grill come BBQ ribs, a specialty you might expect from a soul food restaurant like farmerbrown, but here they’re slathered in a guava-fortified sauce ($16.95). Right now dessert means churros with chocolate sauce or grilled pineapple with coconut ice cream and caramel (both $6). Drinks focus on tropical items (coconut water, ginger beer, etc…) and smoothies, but soon will add beer, wine and coffee service. Weekend brunch will also be introduced soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Can Isla Vida solve all of San Francisco’s problems from the Tenderloin to the Fillmore? Of course not. But it’s going to do its very best to give a dwindling African American population in the city something to take pride in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Isla Vida is aspiring to be an anchor to the past for a rapidly changing Fillmore and San Francisco, one jerk chicken and one smile at a time. “We’re trying to touch on a few of the little things that we really like, try to represent it really well and hopefully make our ancestors proud.” It’s a tall task for a small place but a lot of heart and a destination-worthy Cubano can go a long ways. Isla Vida seems primed to make some big waves of impact in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.islavidasf.com\">Isla Vida\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n1325 Fillmore St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n94115\u003cbr>\n415-678-5171\u003cbr>\nHours: Wednesday-Sunday, 11AM-8PM. Weekend brunch service is coming soon.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $-$$\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/islavida.415\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/islavidasf/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/IslaVidaSF\">Twitter\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/131123/isla-vida-looks-to-make-waves-of-impact-in-the-fillmore","authors":["11338","11404"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_1873"],"featImg":"bayareabites_131138","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_130987":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_130987","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"130987","score":null,"sort":[1540310615000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-missions-prairie-looks-to-change-san-franciscos-italian-dining-landscape","title":"The Mission’s Prairie Looks to Change San Francisco’s Italian Dining Landscape","publishDate":1540310615,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>It takes less than minute after entering to understand that Prairie is neither your typical Italian restaurant, nor your typical restaurant in general. The opening item on the food menu is — mochi. Yes, \u003ci>mochi\u003c/i>. Meanwhile, upon noticing that curveball, the host or hostess will inform you that the ordering process is done with the pencil on the table and accompanying ordering card with each menu item listed in abbreviated form. Then you just simply put the card in a slot at the edge of the table and a server will swing by to pick it up. It’s a checklist style of selecting the course of action for your meal, resembling how many yakitori or dim sum establishments ask for diners to order. Via this method, the generally long, rambling ordering ordeal of diners muttering “we’ll have the halibut, wait, no, the steak, or actually we can’t decide; hold on” is eliminated. The fuss is gone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sets the tone for the debut solo brick-and-mortar restaurant from Anthony Strong, one of San Francisco’s leading authorities on Italian cooking — an Iowa-born, Le Bernardin (New York) and Delfina-trained chef who isn’t one to follow the hard-and-fast rules of a particular cuisine or the customs of fine dining at the Mission’s newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://prairiesf.com/\">Prairie\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Take the fussiness out of it” is something that you’ll hear Strong say again and again, whether he is referring to fine dining food or fine dining service. He wants everyone to dig in, pour the wine and just get lost in the moment. In a city where every restaurant is constantly under the “everyone thinks they are a critic” spotlight, why not have diners, you know, actually just dine and drink and talk?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that mochi gets wrapped in guanciale, then nestled in a radicchio leaf, and drizzled with some thick, aged balsamic vinegar for a $4 two-bite wallop that sends a Japanese izakaya standard (bacon-wrapped mochi) to the hills of Emilia Romagna. Elsewhere, a full pound of Salt Springs mussels is steamed with Prosecco and…nasturtium butter ($23), a fascinating use for a plant that is better known as a finishing flower garnish to the highest of high-end cuisine plates. Strong isn’t interested in how many likes your Instagram photos of his dishes will garner. He doesn’t even own tweezers for Prairie’s kitchen. He happily told us, “there are no flowers, swooshes and dots on our plates.” Instead of looking at the pretty flowers, he “smashes” them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strong is a disruptor. He doesn’t want this to be another Italian restaurant in a city full of Cal-Ital highlights. Each one is a bit different,so where does Prairie fall on the spectrum? The restaurant describes itself as “New-School Italian” which is really a way of saying a cuisine that is rooted in classic Italian and then lets its hair down. As Strong puts it, for some dishes, “We’re just going to get straight to the damn point and do straight-up Italian food. And then in other things, we’re going all over the place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131186\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-131186 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-800x1123.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1123\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-800x1123.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-160x225.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-768x1078.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753.jpg 855w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-240x337.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-375x526.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-520x730.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef/owner Anthony Strong. Photo courtesy of Prairie.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The guanciale-wrapped mochi and mussels are great examples of what this relentlessly forward-thinking chef is designing in the kitchen. Strong opens the food menu with a half-dozen antipasti, including the guanciale mochi, all of which are a world away from red sauce joints. As a nod to autumn, Fuyu persimmons partner with Urfa pepper (most commonly seen in Turkish or Arab cuisines) and pine nut miso ($8). Castelvetrano olives are dusted with a spicy Meyer lemon kosho ($7) — Italy, northern California and Japan all in one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, bread plays a huge part in other starting options but aren’t your normal crostini-based antipasti. “Pane Distrutto” is a must-order giant crouton-like specimen that looks like a meatball after being soaked with olive oil, then sops up a pile of Early Girl tomato pulp for a relentlessly delicious and different take on bruschetta. Like the mochi, it’s $4 apiece and the majority of diners aren’t going to want to share the few bites of it. “Carta di musica,” a thin, crackery Mediterranean flatbread, comes with salt cod \u003ci>gratinita\u003c/i> and Senise peppers ($16) in a nod to the French white fish and potato classic gratin/thick spread, Brandade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131012\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131012\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00573-e1540238846167.jpg\" alt=\"Strong’s burrata preparation served with grilled levain, inspired by sour cream and onion dip.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong’s burrata preparation served with grilled levain, inspired by sour cream and onion dip. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Switching from France to an American football tailgate favorite, sour cream and onion dip is the inspiration for Strong’s burrata preparation served with grilled levain ($14). Strong considers burrata a near “perfect food” and wanted to think outside the burrata ball beyond just topping the cheese with a garnish or two like is the customary preparation. To tweak but not disturb such a fantastic original ingredient, the chef incorporates crème fraiche, folds them together with deeply cooked spring onions accented by lemon zest, and all together achieves the smooth-meets-chunky consistency of cottage cheese curds with the plush richness of burrata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another one of the many additional ways that he is changing up the restaurant status quo is service. As mentioned earlier, ordering is done by hand. Just check off the items that you’d like. Of course, servers are on hand to explain the difference between obscure Italian regions on the wine list (most wines are from Italy but the roster is always open to a few California or other European exceptions) or answer what “Pane Distrutto” even means (answer: destroyed bread). There is no robot making the pasta or tablets to order on or servers hawking small plates from carts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00539-e1540238752262.jpg\" alt=\"An ordering menu at Prairie.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An ordering menu at Prairie. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this comes not because Strong is anti-fine dining. He fully acknowledges that there is a time and place for all-encompassing special fine dining, like at some of Prairie’s neighbors (Lazy Bear is across the street and Californios is three blocks away). But, that is just not what he wanted to do with his own restaurant. Strong is just as much an entrepreneur trying to solve problems in his industry, as he is a restaurateur. Prairie is one of the few San Francisco restaurants to not accept tips, instead adding an 18% service charge to be shared by front and back of house staff in a democratic way that tips can’t provide. Strong isn’t one to attach formal titles to himself, but if he did, it would be something along the lines of Chef/Owner/General Manager/Cocktail Creator/Décor Designer/Carpenter/Doer of All Sorts of Random Tasks That Your Restaurant Needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it can seem striking at first to diners who are new to Strong, his desire to lightly shake things up is something that makes complete sense dating back to before he played in his high school band that is one of the namesakes for the restaurant. The restaurant’s other namesake also is, of course, where Strong grew up and his road to San Francisco’s Prairie began.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, technically, he pointed out to us, he didn’t grow up ON the prairie. Strong is from eastern Iowa near the Mississippi River, where the “prairie ends and the bluffs drop down to the river.” There wasn’t much of a food culture there beyond “lots of corn and all sorts of livestock,” but there was lots of gardening and farming involved in his youth, with prominent produce in Iowa that even the most food-obsessed San Franciscan covets like morel mushrooms, ramps and fiddlehead ferns. As a hyper-energetic kid who loved the contrast of the manure smell of a garden to the beauty of a perfectly ripe tomato, and a kid who admittedly “geeked out” on first wave TV cooking shows by the likes of Martin Yan, the cards were set for Strong to be a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00550-e1540239708521.jpg\" alt=\"Strong in Prairie's kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong in Prairie's kitchen. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His teenage years were spent in Minneapolis and there he transitioned from “basically being an honor student to skipping school to go work at one of his two restaurant jobs” because he thought, as his eyes widened when telling us recently about his adolescent self, “knives are cooler!” Strong continued: “I thought it was the coolest thing ever…I’ve always been a little nerdy, so hiding in a corner and playing with sharp sticks and fire and making stuff look and taste cool was right up my alley.” It \u003ci>seemed\u003c/i> like the perfect future for him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On his first day of being elevated from a dishwasher and busboy to a kitchen role, Strong completely bombed in a Lucille Ball at the doughnut factory-type of comedy of errors. Another more experienced chef told him in a not-so confidence boosting way that day, “Dude, you are horrible at this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somehow that did boost his confidence and Strong bypassed college for the Eric Ripert School of Cooking, getting the lowest level kitchen position at Le Bernardin and moving to New York at the age of 19. It was extremely difficult work at extremely low pay, but his drive to rise in the kitchen led him to soak up everything that legendary fine dining establishment could provide him. In 2006, it was time to pack up and head west, though, where Strong admits that he essentially “blew his last 80 bucks at Delfina.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may not have been the most fiscally prudent decision, yet it did prove to be a game-changing professional move as he asked for a job with Delfina’s chef and co-owner, Craig Stoll. He traded in Le Bernardin’s “live uni and expensive caviar” for the spaghetti and roast chicken at Delfina, along with California’s bounty of local ingredients. He remembers upon leaving New York, “Then I came out here and had sand dabs and anchovies for the first time, and it was like, ‘What are these lowly creatures that are so amazing?’ I just fell in love with it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 11 years, Strong grew from the beginning stage at the 18th Street modern SF classic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He dove headfirst into each of the Delfina establishments and was never afraid of shaking things up, something that obviously is reflected by Prairie. When Strong figured that time was up in the Delfina sphere, he knew that he wanted to “think outside the Italian box” and he “didn’t want to do anything normal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131019\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00583-e1540239878808.jpg\" alt=\"When Strong figured that time was up in the Delfina sphere, he knew that he wanted to “think outside the Italian box” and he “didn’t want to do anything normal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When Strong figured that time was up in the Delfina sphere, he knew that he wanted to “think outside the Italian box” and he “didn’t want to do anything normal.” \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is how Strong ended up creating a restaurant without a home…or a truck…or a pop-up space…or any chairs for diners. He would share the kitchen at the Tenderloin’s Vietnamese stalwart, Turtle Tower, and create whatever he felt like cooking and sell it on the various meal delivery apps under the faux restaurant title of “Young Fava,” a nickname given by a pair of former Pizzeria Delfina chefs (one is now the sous chef at Prairie) to him while frying fava beans and as a nod to a generation of rappers who called themselves “Young” something (Young Jeezy, Young Money).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether Strong has a future in rapping or not — and probably not — he knew that he had to cook for real people in a sit-down room again. However, for that restaurant, Strong decided, “We’re not going to be an Italian restaurant with a three syllable name and I didn’t want an Italian restaurant with a three syllable name and I’m going to try to mess with service model a bit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prairie eventually emerged for Strong in the former Hog and Rocks space. He inherited a compact 2300-square feet restaurant where roughly 30 percent of the real estate is devoted to kitchen space. Four chefs are stationed in that area with one devoted to pasta and one devoted to Prairie’s tour de force mesquite charcoal-fueled grill duo. One is a Josper grill that hails from Spain and one is a Texan & Woodshow Broiler.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two grills are responsible for half the menu, ranging from a beautiful octopus sprawled out over seemingly a quarter-pound of fregola ($28) to charred Corno di Toro peppers ($9; like roasted marinated red peppers) that achieve the über-intense smokiness of mezcal to marrow bones ($22) that can later function as a good times igniting sherry shot “luge” depending if guests so desire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131014\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131014\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00567-e1540239142272.jpg\" alt=\"Rice cakes cooked with multi types of game fowl ragu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice cakes cooked with multi types of game fowl ragu. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The oven’s bread and butter, if you will, are without question the meats. That was the case at Locanda after several Rome trips when Strong fell in love with the deep-flavored, flame-blistered meats at the likes of decades-old heavyweights in the Eternal City like Al Ceppo. That spirit follows to Prairie except in the globetrotting form of a half rack of Berkshire pork ribs with Calabrian XO rub ($25); thin-cut beef short ribs with a tea leaf salsa verde ($28); and lamb blade chops ($27), a lamb cut that is rarely seen on Bay Area menus. Strong describes it as, “Where the rib meets and the shoulder starts you get these cross-sections of all the fun stuff going on. It’s not like a cute little lamb chop and a little loin piece. It’s all this fun stuff. Fatty and texturally, it’s amazing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then pivoting to the next-door primi station in Prairie’s kitchen, you really know this isn’t a North Beach trattoria when there are rice cakes on the pasta section of the menu. Strong loves rice cakes and sources them from Santa Clara, grills the stacks, then slices them and cooks them in bright, fragrant multi types of game fowl ragu. For the opening week, the rice cakes were paired with a Chanterelle mushroom sugo ($17). Elsewhere in the pasta sector, pappardelle might go the hearty beef route with beef cheeks “butcher’s wife style” ($18) or be bursting-at-the-seams Gulf shrimp and burrata tortelli in a slightly Szechuan evoking triple chili “action” and celery soffritto ($19).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131016\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00578-e1540239459582.jpg\" alt=\"Strong mans the bar to show us his fresh take on the Italian Greyhound.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong mans the bar to show us his fresh take on the Italian Greyhound. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, the cocktails, also designed by Strong. You’ll cringe when you hear about the Prairie Sour (all cocktails $13), but it’s an ode to a childhood school bus memory of Templeton rye (an Iowa based spirit and a nod to how the bus driver always smelled like bourbon), egg white (a fellow student always reeked of the eggs from his apparently recently eaten breakfast), and Sapling maple liqueur from his own maple syrup-soaked breakfast. And, there you have a whiskey sour via an Iowa school bus ride, folks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another cocktail borrows from Strong’s later research years visiting Italy. Outside of basic Negronis and \u003ci>appertivi\u003c/i>, he was frustrated by the lack of cocktails. However, all of the corner bars knew who to do fresh juices for the morning, so he convinced one to work on fresh grapefruit juice for an unknown-in-Italy classic American cocktail: the Greyhound. So, an “ultra-fresh” on the spot juiced grapefruit-forward Italian Greyhound with Cappelletti and Bruto Americano sweet-herbal liqueurs is served at Prairie. You’ll also find a Kombucha Bellini ($12); a sparkling Negroni (not a Sbagliato but an intense soda water-powered, on tap version of the classic); and gorgeously balanced and fizzy Suntory Toki whiskey highballs, made on one of the few Suntory Toki carbonation machines in America, are among the other cocktail offerings. For beer, there are five northern California taps and eight rare Japanese beers by the bottle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00585-e1540239578142.jpg\" alt=\"Strong's on the spot juiced grapefruit-forward Italian Greyhound with Cappelletti and Bruto Americano.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong's on the spot juiced grapefruit-forward Italian Greyhound with Cappelletti and Bruto Americano. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Former guests of Hog & Rocks will recognize the bones of the space and rough shape of the restaurant — the dining room half is by the door and the bar half is on the opposite side of the room. Except, now the walls have been covered in ash wood panels dyed indigo by a traditional Japanese treatment style called “Aizome.” Hog & Rocks’ old communal table has been separated into some high-top tables in the bar area. Half of Hog & Rocks’ old bar was cut away and is now part of Prairie’s bar backdrop. Meanwhile, Prairie’s bar is now smaller and is now a backward L–shape, offering eight seats for guests. There are a total of 70 seats combined inside and outside at a handful of sidewalk tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you’d expect with a restaurant that looks to change things up, you’ll find quirky objects throughout the room that follow the fun, slightly freewheeling ethos of Prairie. Strong’s girlfriend allowed Strong to add her glass bok choy sculpture and her “Not-A-Flamethrower” Flamethrower from Elon Musk’s Boring Company as decorative objects on the bar backdrop. Then there are the most talked-about, slightly bizarre art items from the dining room walls: NASA theoretical space colony renderings from the 1970s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131025\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00535-e1540240419517.jpg\" alt=\"Strong’s girlfriend allowed Strong to add her glass bok choy sculpture and her “Not-A-Flamethrower” Flamethrower from Elon Musk’s Boring Company as decorative objects on the bar backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong’s girlfriend allowed Strong to add her glass bok choy sculpture and her “Not-A-Flamethrower” Flamethrower from Elon Musk’s Boring Company as decorative objects on the bar backdrop. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no pastry chef, but that doesn’t hold Strong back from crafting some cuisine-bending desserts nightly, like chocolate budino or warm chocolate “baba” (like a cross of fluffy cake with a thin frosting layer and bread pudding) infused with Earl Grey or trying to solve the cheesecake conundrum via a sheep’s milk yogurt crostata on a cinnamon and rye graham cracker crust, finished with syrup-enriched kumquats. Strong admits, “I’m very disappointed in about 99% of the cheesecakes out there” and he certainly isn’t alone in that regard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man is relentless. He wants to solve cheesecake. He wants to fix fine dining’s faults on the menu and in the dining room. He’s loosening the rules of Italian cooking. He’s the rare independent chef these days who has entered the big stage of primetime San Francisco dining without being a spin-off of a successful existing restaurant group or starting out fast-casual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He hasn’t been afraid to try anything in his culinary career, from screwing up egg salad on day one to pairing mochi with guanciale today. That is why Strong is such a important character in the restaurant industry and why Prairie is one of the Bay Area’s most compelling restaurants in recent memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.prairiesf.com\">Prairie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3431 19th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n94110\u003cbr>\n415-483-1112\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/prairiesf/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/prairiesf/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:30PM-10PM (until 11PM Friday and Saturday). Brunch service is coming soon.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $$-$$$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Longtime Delfina group chef, Anthony Strong, makes his solo debut in the Mission with Prairie.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1567628217,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":34,"wordCount":3341},"headData":{"title":"The Mission’s Prairie Looks to Change San Francisco’s Italian Dining Landscape | KQED","description":"Longtime Delfina group chef, Anthony Strong, makes his solo debut in the Mission with Prairie.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Mission’s Prairie Looks to Change San Francisco’s Italian Dining Landscape","datePublished":"2018-10-23T16:03:35.000Z","dateModified":"2019-09-04T20:16:57.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"130987 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=130987","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/10/23/the-missions-prairie-looks-to-change-san-franciscos-italian-dining-landscape/","disqusTitle":"The Mission’s Prairie Looks to Change San Francisco’s Italian Dining Landscape","path":"/bayareabites/130987/the-missions-prairie-looks-to-change-san-franciscos-italian-dining-landscape","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It takes less than minute after entering to understand that Prairie is neither your typical Italian restaurant, nor your typical restaurant in general. The opening item on the food menu is — mochi. Yes, \u003ci>mochi\u003c/i>. Meanwhile, upon noticing that curveball, the host or hostess will inform you that the ordering process is done with the pencil on the table and accompanying ordering card with each menu item listed in abbreviated form. Then you just simply put the card in a slot at the edge of the table and a server will swing by to pick it up. It’s a checklist style of selecting the course of action for your meal, resembling how many yakitori or dim sum establishments ask for diners to order. Via this method, the generally long, rambling ordering ordeal of diners muttering “we’ll have the halibut, wait, no, the steak, or actually we can’t decide; hold on” is eliminated. The fuss is gone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sets the tone for the debut solo brick-and-mortar restaurant from Anthony Strong, one of San Francisco’s leading authorities on Italian cooking — an Iowa-born, Le Bernardin (New York) and Delfina-trained chef who isn’t one to follow the hard-and-fast rules of a particular cuisine or the customs of fine dining at the Mission’s newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://prairiesf.com/\">Prairie\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Take the fussiness out of it” is something that you’ll hear Strong say again and again, whether he is referring to fine dining food or fine dining service. He wants everyone to dig in, pour the wine and just get lost in the moment. In a city where every restaurant is constantly under the “everyone thinks they are a critic” spotlight, why not have diners, you know, actually just dine and drink and talk?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, that mochi gets wrapped in guanciale, then nestled in a radicchio leaf, and drizzled with some thick, aged balsamic vinegar for a $4 two-bite wallop that sends a Japanese izakaya standard (bacon-wrapped mochi) to the hills of Emilia Romagna. Elsewhere, a full pound of Salt Springs mussels is steamed with Prosecco and…nasturtium butter ($23), a fascinating use for a plant that is better known as a finishing flower garnish to the highest of high-end cuisine plates. Strong isn’t interested in how many likes your Instagram photos of his dishes will garner. He doesn’t even own tweezers for Prairie’s kitchen. He happily told us, “there are no flowers, swooshes and dots on our plates.” Instead of looking at the pretty flowers, he “smashes” them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strong is a disruptor. He doesn’t want this to be another Italian restaurant in a city full of Cal-Ital highlights. Each one is a bit different,so where does Prairie fall on the spectrum? The restaurant describes itself as “New-School Italian” which is really a way of saying a cuisine that is rooted in classic Italian and then lets its hair down. As Strong puts it, for some dishes, “We’re just going to get straight to the damn point and do straight-up Italian food. And then in other things, we’re going all over the place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131186\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-131186 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-800x1123.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1123\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-800x1123.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-160x225.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-768x1078.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753.jpg 855w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-240x337.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-375x526.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/20181003_AS-hat-front_43753-520x730.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef/owner Anthony Strong. Photo courtesy of Prairie.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The guanciale-wrapped mochi and mussels are great examples of what this relentlessly forward-thinking chef is designing in the kitchen. Strong opens the food menu with a half-dozen antipasti, including the guanciale mochi, all of which are a world away from red sauce joints. As a nod to autumn, Fuyu persimmons partner with Urfa pepper (most commonly seen in Turkish or Arab cuisines) and pine nut miso ($8). Castelvetrano olives are dusted with a spicy Meyer lemon kosho ($7) — Italy, northern California and Japan all in one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, bread plays a huge part in other starting options but aren’t your normal crostini-based antipasti. “Pane Distrutto” is a must-order giant crouton-like specimen that looks like a meatball after being soaked with olive oil, then sops up a pile of Early Girl tomato pulp for a relentlessly delicious and different take on bruschetta. Like the mochi, it’s $4 apiece and the majority of diners aren’t going to want to share the few bites of it. “Carta di musica,” a thin, crackery Mediterranean flatbread, comes with salt cod \u003ci>gratinita\u003c/i> and Senise peppers ($16) in a nod to the French white fish and potato classic gratin/thick spread, Brandade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131012\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131012\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00573-e1540238846167.jpg\" alt=\"Strong’s burrata preparation served with grilled levain, inspired by sour cream and onion dip.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong’s burrata preparation served with grilled levain, inspired by sour cream and onion dip. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Switching from France to an American football tailgate favorite, sour cream and onion dip is the inspiration for Strong’s burrata preparation served with grilled levain ($14). Strong considers burrata a near “perfect food” and wanted to think outside the burrata ball beyond just topping the cheese with a garnish or two like is the customary preparation. To tweak but not disturb such a fantastic original ingredient, the chef incorporates crème fraiche, folds them together with deeply cooked spring onions accented by lemon zest, and all together achieves the smooth-meets-chunky consistency of cottage cheese curds with the plush richness of burrata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another one of the many additional ways that he is changing up the restaurant status quo is service. As mentioned earlier, ordering is done by hand. Just check off the items that you’d like. Of course, servers are on hand to explain the difference between obscure Italian regions on the wine list (most wines are from Italy but the roster is always open to a few California or other European exceptions) or answer what “Pane Distrutto” even means (answer: destroyed bread). There is no robot making the pasta or tablets to order on or servers hawking small plates from carts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131011\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131011\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00539-e1540238752262.jpg\" alt=\"An ordering menu at Prairie.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An ordering menu at Prairie. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this comes not because Strong is anti-fine dining. He fully acknowledges that there is a time and place for all-encompassing special fine dining, like at some of Prairie’s neighbors (Lazy Bear is across the street and Californios is three blocks away). But, that is just not what he wanted to do with his own restaurant. Strong is just as much an entrepreneur trying to solve problems in his industry, as he is a restaurateur. Prairie is one of the few San Francisco restaurants to not accept tips, instead adding an 18% service charge to be shared by front and back of house staff in a democratic way that tips can’t provide. Strong isn’t one to attach formal titles to himself, but if he did, it would be something along the lines of Chef/Owner/General Manager/Cocktail Creator/Décor Designer/Carpenter/Doer of All Sorts of Random Tasks That Your Restaurant Needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it can seem striking at first to diners who are new to Strong, his desire to lightly shake things up is something that makes complete sense dating back to before he played in his high school band that is one of the namesakes for the restaurant. The restaurant’s other namesake also is, of course, where Strong grew up and his road to San Francisco’s Prairie began.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, technically, he pointed out to us, he didn’t grow up ON the prairie. Strong is from eastern Iowa near the Mississippi River, where the “prairie ends and the bluffs drop down to the river.” There wasn’t much of a food culture there beyond “lots of corn and all sorts of livestock,” but there was lots of gardening and farming involved in his youth, with prominent produce in Iowa that even the most food-obsessed San Franciscan covets like morel mushrooms, ramps and fiddlehead ferns. As a hyper-energetic kid who loved the contrast of the manure smell of a garden to the beauty of a perfectly ripe tomato, and a kid who admittedly “geeked out” on first wave TV cooking shows by the likes of Martin Yan, the cards were set for Strong to be a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00550-e1540239708521.jpg\" alt=\"Strong in Prairie's kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong in Prairie's kitchen. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>His teenage years were spent in Minneapolis and there he transitioned from “basically being an honor student to skipping school to go work at one of his two restaurant jobs” because he thought, as his eyes widened when telling us recently about his adolescent self, “knives are cooler!” Strong continued: “I thought it was the coolest thing ever…I’ve always been a little nerdy, so hiding in a corner and playing with sharp sticks and fire and making stuff look and taste cool was right up my alley.” It \u003ci>seemed\u003c/i> like the perfect future for him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On his first day of being elevated from a dishwasher and busboy to a kitchen role, Strong completely bombed in a Lucille Ball at the doughnut factory-type of comedy of errors. Another more experienced chef told him in a not-so confidence boosting way that day, “Dude, you are horrible at this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somehow that did boost his confidence and Strong bypassed college for the Eric Ripert School of Cooking, getting the lowest level kitchen position at Le Bernardin and moving to New York at the age of 19. It was extremely difficult work at extremely low pay, but his drive to rise in the kitchen led him to soak up everything that legendary fine dining establishment could provide him. In 2006, it was time to pack up and head west, though, where Strong admits that he essentially “blew his last 80 bucks at Delfina.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may not have been the most fiscally prudent decision, yet it did prove to be a game-changing professional move as he asked for a job with Delfina’s chef and co-owner, Craig Stoll. He traded in Le Bernardin’s “live uni and expensive caviar” for the spaghetti and roast chicken at Delfina, along with California’s bounty of local ingredients. He remembers upon leaving New York, “Then I came out here and had sand dabs and anchovies for the first time, and it was like, ‘What are these lowly creatures that are so amazing?’ I just fell in love with it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 11 years, Strong grew from the beginning stage at the 18th Street modern SF classic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He dove headfirst into each of the Delfina establishments and was never afraid of shaking things up, something that obviously is reflected by Prairie. When Strong figured that time was up in the Delfina sphere, he knew that he wanted to “think outside the Italian box” and he “didn’t want to do anything normal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131019\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00583-e1540239878808.jpg\" alt=\"When Strong figured that time was up in the Delfina sphere, he knew that he wanted to “think outside the Italian box” and he “didn’t want to do anything normal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When Strong figured that time was up in the Delfina sphere, he knew that he wanted to “think outside the Italian box” and he “didn’t want to do anything normal.” \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is how Strong ended up creating a restaurant without a home…or a truck…or a pop-up space…or any chairs for diners. He would share the kitchen at the Tenderloin’s Vietnamese stalwart, Turtle Tower, and create whatever he felt like cooking and sell it on the various meal delivery apps under the faux restaurant title of “Young Fava,” a nickname given by a pair of former Pizzeria Delfina chefs (one is now the sous chef at Prairie) to him while frying fava beans and as a nod to a generation of rappers who called themselves “Young” something (Young Jeezy, Young Money).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether Strong has a future in rapping or not — and probably not — he knew that he had to cook for real people in a sit-down room again. However, for that restaurant, Strong decided, “We’re not going to be an Italian restaurant with a three syllable name and I didn’t want an Italian restaurant with a three syllable name and I’m going to try to mess with service model a bit.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prairie eventually emerged for Strong in the former Hog and Rocks space. He inherited a compact 2300-square feet restaurant where roughly 30 percent of the real estate is devoted to kitchen space. Four chefs are stationed in that area with one devoted to pasta and one devoted to Prairie’s tour de force mesquite charcoal-fueled grill duo. One is a Josper grill that hails from Spain and one is a Texan & Woodshow Broiler.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two grills are responsible for half the menu, ranging from a beautiful octopus sprawled out over seemingly a quarter-pound of fregola ($28) to charred Corno di Toro peppers ($9; like roasted marinated red peppers) that achieve the über-intense smokiness of mezcal to marrow bones ($22) that can later function as a good times igniting sherry shot “luge” depending if guests so desire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131014\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131014\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00567-e1540239142272.jpg\" alt=\"Rice cakes cooked with multi types of game fowl ragu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice cakes cooked with multi types of game fowl ragu. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The oven’s bread and butter, if you will, are without question the meats. That was the case at Locanda after several Rome trips when Strong fell in love with the deep-flavored, flame-blistered meats at the likes of decades-old heavyweights in the Eternal City like Al Ceppo. That spirit follows to Prairie except in the globetrotting form of a half rack of Berkshire pork ribs with Calabrian XO rub ($25); thin-cut beef short ribs with a tea leaf salsa verde ($28); and lamb blade chops ($27), a lamb cut that is rarely seen on Bay Area menus. Strong describes it as, “Where the rib meets and the shoulder starts you get these cross-sections of all the fun stuff going on. It’s not like a cute little lamb chop and a little loin piece. It’s all this fun stuff. Fatty and texturally, it’s amazing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then pivoting to the next-door primi station in Prairie’s kitchen, you really know this isn’t a North Beach trattoria when there are rice cakes on the pasta section of the menu. Strong loves rice cakes and sources them from Santa Clara, grills the stacks, then slices them and cooks them in bright, fragrant multi types of game fowl ragu. For the opening week, the rice cakes were paired with a Chanterelle mushroom sugo ($17). Elsewhere in the pasta sector, pappardelle might go the hearty beef route with beef cheeks “butcher’s wife style” ($18) or be bursting-at-the-seams Gulf shrimp and burrata tortelli in a slightly Szechuan evoking triple chili “action” and celery soffritto ($19).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131016\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00578-e1540239459582.jpg\" alt=\"Strong mans the bar to show us his fresh take on the Italian Greyhound.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong mans the bar to show us his fresh take on the Italian Greyhound. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, the cocktails, also designed by Strong. You’ll cringe when you hear about the Prairie Sour (all cocktails $13), but it’s an ode to a childhood school bus memory of Templeton rye (an Iowa based spirit and a nod to how the bus driver always smelled like bourbon), egg white (a fellow student always reeked of the eggs from his apparently recently eaten breakfast), and Sapling maple liqueur from his own maple syrup-soaked breakfast. And, there you have a whiskey sour via an Iowa school bus ride, folks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another cocktail borrows from Strong’s later research years visiting Italy. Outside of basic Negronis and \u003ci>appertivi\u003c/i>, he was frustrated by the lack of cocktails. However, all of the corner bars knew who to do fresh juices for the morning, so he convinced one to work on fresh grapefruit juice for an unknown-in-Italy classic American cocktail: the Greyhound. So, an “ultra-fresh” on the spot juiced grapefruit-forward Italian Greyhound with Cappelletti and Bruto Americano sweet-herbal liqueurs is served at Prairie. You’ll also find a Kombucha Bellini ($12); a sparkling Negroni (not a Sbagliato but an intense soda water-powered, on tap version of the classic); and gorgeously balanced and fizzy Suntory Toki whiskey highballs, made on one of the few Suntory Toki carbonation machines in America, are among the other cocktail offerings. For beer, there are five northern California taps and eight rare Japanese beers by the bottle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131017\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00585-e1540239578142.jpg\" alt=\"Strong's on the spot juiced grapefruit-forward Italian Greyhound with Cappelletti and Bruto Americano.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong's on the spot juiced grapefruit-forward Italian Greyhound with Cappelletti and Bruto Americano. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Former guests of Hog & Rocks will recognize the bones of the space and rough shape of the restaurant — the dining room half is by the door and the bar half is on the opposite side of the room. Except, now the walls have been covered in ash wood panels dyed indigo by a traditional Japanese treatment style called “Aizome.” Hog & Rocks’ old communal table has been separated into some high-top tables in the bar area. Half of Hog & Rocks’ old bar was cut away and is now part of Prairie’s bar backdrop. Meanwhile, Prairie’s bar is now smaller and is now a backward L–shape, offering eight seats for guests. There are a total of 70 seats combined inside and outside at a handful of sidewalk tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you’d expect with a restaurant that looks to change things up, you’ll find quirky objects throughout the room that follow the fun, slightly freewheeling ethos of Prairie. Strong’s girlfriend allowed Strong to add her glass bok choy sculpture and her “Not-A-Flamethrower” Flamethrower from Elon Musk’s Boring Company as decorative objects on the bar backdrop. Then there are the most talked-about, slightly bizarre art items from the dining room walls: NASA theoretical space colony renderings from the 1970s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_131025\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-131025\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/DSC00535-e1540240419517.jpg\" alt=\"Strong’s girlfriend allowed Strong to add her glass bok choy sculpture and her “Not-A-Flamethrower” Flamethrower from Elon Musk’s Boring Company as decorative objects on the bar backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strong’s girlfriend allowed Strong to add her glass bok choy sculpture and her “Not-A-Flamethrower” Flamethrower from Elon Musk’s Boring Company as decorative objects on the bar backdrop. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is no pastry chef, but that doesn’t hold Strong back from crafting some cuisine-bending desserts nightly, like chocolate budino or warm chocolate “baba” (like a cross of fluffy cake with a thin frosting layer and bread pudding) infused with Earl Grey or trying to solve the cheesecake conundrum via a sheep’s milk yogurt crostata on a cinnamon and rye graham cracker crust, finished with syrup-enriched kumquats. Strong admits, “I’m very disappointed in about 99% of the cheesecakes out there” and he certainly isn’t alone in that regard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The man is relentless. He wants to solve cheesecake. He wants to fix fine dining’s faults on the menu and in the dining room. He’s loosening the rules of Italian cooking. He’s the rare independent chef these days who has entered the big stage of primetime San Francisco dining without being a spin-off of a successful existing restaurant group or starting out fast-casual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He hasn’t been afraid to try anything in his culinary career, from screwing up egg salad on day one to pairing mochi with guanciale today. That is why Strong is such a important character in the restaurant industry and why Prairie is one of the Bay Area’s most compelling restaurants in recent memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.prairiesf.com\">Prairie\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3431 19th St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA\u003cbr>\n94110\u003cbr>\n415-483-1112\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/prairiesf/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/prairiesf/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:30PM-10PM (until 11PM Friday and Saturday). Brunch service is coming soon.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $$-$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/130987/the-missions-prairie-looks-to-change-san-franciscos-italian-dining-landscape","authors":["11338","11404"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_16462","bayareabites_2101","bayareabites_14775","bayareabites_16461","bayareabites_14745"],"featImg":"bayareabites_131027","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_130503":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_130503","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"130503","score":null,"sort":[1537547851000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sundaes-pies-and-butter-fries-arrive-on-divisadero-at-theorita","title":"Sundaes, Pies and Butter Fries Arrive on Divisadero at Theorita","publishDate":1537547851,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Baking a standout pie isn’t, well, as “easy as pie.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chances are extremely high that the majority of San Francisco home cooks aren’t baking their own pie because, from blueberry with a lattice crust to mincemeat with a brown sugar crumble, pies aren’t just a trivial “add a few ingredients, mix, throw in oven, and forget it while you answer emails” type of recipe if you’re going at it fully from scratch. Sure, the Pillsbury dough boy can help cut a few pie corners when you desperately want to put a pie on the table promptly, but, when crust is 50 to 60% of the whole pie equation, the likelihood of a transcendent pie in that case will have already been cut dramatically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s no way around it—pies need tender loving care. San Francisco’s unofficial newly crowned master of the pie-baking art, Angela Pinkerton, offers up some critical advice to aspiring pie bakers that her “secret” to outstanding pie results isn’t really a deep piece of wisdom but something we need to be reminded: relax. Don’t overwork the dough. Don’t over-season the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s baking office these days is at four-week old \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/www.theorita.com\">Theorita\u003c/a>, a contemporary take on a mid 20th century Midwest dinette (think an intimate diner with a condensed menu) on the ground floor of a renovated autobody shop, below its neighbor and Divisadero’s scorching hot Cali-Italian cooking destination, Che Fico. Her name might ring a bell from a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">somewhat recent article\u003c/a> on this website when this writer chronicled the opening days of Che Fico, where Pinkerton is responsible for the fantastic rustic desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130507\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00215-e1537309912409.jpg\" alt=\"Pinkerton's grandmother is the restaurant's namesake.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinkerton's grandmother is the restaurant's namesake. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To this day, Che Fico remains the most in-demand table of the moment, neck-and-neck with State Bird Provisions with who can have a longer sidewalk line at 6 PM on a given night. Anderson Cooper and Gwyneth Paltrow both dined at Che Fico and gave it \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2018/4/23/17270828/gwyneth-paltrow-che-fico-sf-instagram\">the Instagram love\u003c/a>. Che Fico is an anchor for dining on the Divisadero corridor, the hottest restaurant zone in the city. The area is at the heart of the gentrification debate, arguably the hottest topic these days in San Francisco. It’s where $4 toast was invented. Google buses clog Divisadero’s narrow four lanes at morning and evening rush hour times. Real estate prices in the area are skyrocketing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is just so much…EVERYTHING…right now in that particular neighborhood at this particular time. The sudden growth and controversies and the debates surrounding could all use a slice of humble pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130510\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130510\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00203-e1537310101636.jpg\" alt=\"Pinkerton's pies on display\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinkerton's pies on display \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And, on cue, here is Theorita, full of a case of Pinkerton’s unfussy, spectacular pies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, tucked inside by the sidewalk adjacent window, is a classic apple pie on display, perhaps next to the somewhat unexpected corn custard pie and the very unexpected passion fruit with bay leaf cream pie (slices are $5.50 and whole pies are $34). You’ll always find bourbon-chocolate-walnut pie because, Pinkerton joked to us, “San Francisco can’t get enough bourbon,” but it probably has a lot to do with the term “chocolate” in the filling. There might be a summer berry pie, or a peach and oatmeal crumble pie, or a raspberry and white nectarine pie, or a smaller “sweetie pie” topped with practically a whole pound of strawberries or raspberries (usually $10), or who knows what else is in season that Pinkerton is inspired by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00214-e1537310002344.jpg\" alt=\"The PB & J pie à la mode\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PB & J pie à la mode \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even that childhood sandwich favorite, PB & J, gets translated into a pie form with a crust similar to a peanut butter-oatmeal cookie and a “jelly” filling made of seedless Thomcords that are really only in season for the tail end of summer like tomatoes. Pinkerton is constantly tinkering with new pie crusts, fillings and toppings. There might be some chocolate in one crust or rosemary to join fresh raspberries. She’s having every bit as much fun within the genre of “pie” as the chefs upstairs are having with pasta. It’s really exciting to watch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not just pies, however, to tempt your sweet tooth. The salted pecan sticky bun is what generally jumps out to prospective diners first at the green-hued pastry case. It often resides next to a puffy brioche-based chocolate orange sugar bun. Then there are Danishes often filled with a sweet cheese of some sort and sometimes with berries or fruit. Pies might be the specialty of the house but Pinkerton wants Danishes to be considered the vital supporting character in the bakery cast. There are no croissants to be found, but those Danishes and savory roasted scallion “swirls” are part of the laminated dough family. You’ll also encounter “quick breads” and more breakfast-friendly baked items like a chamomile ginger scone and or a chocolate zucchini muffin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130511\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00201-e1537310206308.jpg\" alt=\"It’s not just pies at Theorita that will tempt your sweet tooth.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s not just pies at Theorita that will tempt your sweet tooth. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, wait, then there are the cookies that range widely in size, shape and texture from seeds n’ berries oatmeal to sweet potato and coffee (most cookies are $3 and pastries are usually $4-$5). On the competitive San Francisco chocolate chip cookie scene, Pinkerton is very much trying to balance a crunchy exterior with a soft, tender interior and a good dose of butter for richness without being too distracting from the Vahlrona chocolate chunks. She aspires for the “best of both worlds” and the city’s cookie monsters appreciate that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco’s diverse and abundant baking scene is one of the giant reasons that attracted Pinkerton to relocate to the Bay Area in the first place. And, her repertoire offered at Theorita very much follows in the same tradition of our local legends like Tartine, b. Patisserie and Craftsman & Wolves—baked goods that are comforting and approachable, slightly rooted in a classic American or French nature, then often given a clever tweak or seasonal produce boost. San Francisco baking doesn’t follow the rigid structure of, say, a Parisian patisserie or a Viennese bakery. We’re all about butter, sugar, produce and delicious fun. Theorita is now the latest stop on our city’s phenomenal tour de pastry cases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s personal journey didn’t involve staging at a legendary bakery or a canelé epiphany in the French countryside. It started in a very different countryside — what her website describes as the “rolling hills” of northeastern Ohio, though this writer lived for a year about an hour away and can attest that the “hills” are mild enough that he had to run in and out of sand bunkers on a golf course to get a hill workout. Simply put, it’s very pastoral farmland in northeast Ohio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her hometown of Alliance, Ohio, is the vintage slice of wholesome Americana that is rapidly disappearing from this country. It resides near the Akron-Canton part of the Buckeye state, just south of Cleveland, and best known to outsiders for being the home region of Lebron James, the Pro Football Hall of Fame, and Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company. Then there is a fourth thing that locals correctly boast about the area: the apple orchards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her maternal grandparents had an orchard, so its apple crop was always a part of Pinkerton’s childhood. Meanwhile, her parents always had a garden and young Pinkerton would help out with cooking at home. Becoming a chef was never something that she thought about while growing up, but there is no doubt that food, especially pie, was instrumental in her youth. Her grandmother, Theorita (the restaurant’s namesake), had spent decades perfecting various kinds of pies as the mother of five children and because her husband always wanted dessert. Pie was a somewhat fast, somewhat easy, and very delicious way to please the growing kids and hungry husband.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00216-e1537310376974.jpg\" alt=\"The "Theorita" logo was handwritten by Pinkerton's grandmother.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \"Theorita\" logo was handwritten by Pinkerton's grandmother. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton later pursued a biology degree at Kent State and took a job working as a clerk at a bakery, which evolved into a full-time gig baking wedding cakes while also being a student. She left Kent State to open her own wedding cakes concept, “Let Them Eat Cake,” and then opted to learn more about savory cooking with a kitchen job at a local country club. After being largely self-taught, Pinkerton figured that a proper culinary education would greatly help her career prospects. So, she left Ohio for the swamp of our nation’s capital and studied pastry arts the now-closed L’Academie de Cuisine just outside D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her next stop after graduation was as a pastry chef for the Ritz-Carlton, Pentagon City, where she doesn’t have too many juicy politician stories to tell, but says there was “always drama, always something” going on. It was definitely a world away from Alliance, Ohio. As grand a stage as Arlington, Virginia is, Pinkerton was ready for the grander stage of a restaurant in the grandest restaurant market of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s first “restaurant job” happened to be at Eleven Madison Park in New York, which at the time in 2007, was not one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants.” It was merely an excellent restaurant in a gorgeous setting, owned by New York’s most successful restaurateur (Danny Meyer) and an innovative, immensely talented ex-San Francisco chef (Campton Place) named Daniel Humm. Eleven Madison Park wasn’t Eleven Madison Park back then. But, it was still a huge deal with the same name and a different type of ambition than it has now. For a first restaurant job to be there, well, it’s a huge accomplishment with not your average job debut pressure. Pinkerton clearly was ready and even chuckles when every writer, including this one, asks about how her first restaurant job was at the “pinnacle of her profession.” For Pinkerton, it was just her first restaurant job. It was work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2009 was the breakthrough transition year for Eleven Madison Park and Pinkerton. Frank Bruni, then the New York Times Dining Critic, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/12/dining/reviews/12rest.html\">awarded four stars for the restaurant\u003c/a>, a title held only by five restaurants today. That year, Pinkerton was promoted from Pastry Sous Chef to Executive Pastry Chef, and she deservedly reached the national spotlight in 2011 by taking the highest honor in the country for a pastry chef: the James Beard award for Outstanding Pastry Chef. \u003ca href=\"http://www.the-review.com/article/20110626/LIFESTYLE/306269490\">Here’s a fun piece\u003c/a> about that honor from her hometown’s newspaper in Ohio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton held the Executive Pastry Chef title at Eleven Madison Park for five years, overseeing a period when the restaurant had no shortage of cleverness and lofty ambition, serving carrot tartare in place of beef, for example, and creating a “New York History” tasting menu that included a mystery card game to determine one of the desserts for each diner. In 2014, she left the restaurant and New York for the greener (golden, really) pastures of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130525\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130525\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DLCID_CheFico110-e1537376098184.jpg\" alt=\"Angela Pinkerton with her restaurant partners, David Nayfeld and Matthew Brewer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1278\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Angela Pinkerton with her restaurant partners, David Nayfeld and Matthew Brewer. \u003ccite>(Kira Lauren)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is where we need to step in and clarify for the general dining public that Pinkerton didn’t move to San Francisco because of Che Fico and Theorita, contrary to what many articles suggest. Pinkerton overlapped with David Nayfeld in Eleven Madison Park’s kitchen for a few years and the two became friends. Nayfeld is a Bay Area native and had subsequently moved to San Francisco after Eleven Madison Park, so the two connected and Nayfeld helped Pinkerton adjust to the Bay Area. She would even go to his family’s home for Thanksgiving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton spent several months working with Craftsman and Wolves’ William Werner to develop new pastries, coinciding with that bakery’s expansion to Russian Hill (now closed) and the Bayview, and a potential addition in Los Angeles that never happened. However, she really missed the energy of being in a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld always had plans for a Divisadero restaurant (what became Che Fico) with business partner Matt Brewer, a driving force behind some of Chicago’s marquee restaurants as a co-founder of the restaurant group Hogsalt Hospitality. Pinkerton signed on to help with their restaurant’s dessert program. Then, things really fell into place a little bit by chance when the third project of the Divisadero former auto shop complex (Che Fico, Boba Guys and Concept C) fell through. Che Fico’s investors were huge fans of Pinkerton’s work, both from her resume and desserts she made at dinners for them in San Francisco. So, this third space could be her domain. Pinkerton admits that it was “kind of crazy” that Che Fico and Theorita opened so close together, but the team was ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130513\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00184-e1537310532684.jpg\" alt=\"Savory options on the menu include Butter Fries: Kennebec french fries topped with house cultured butter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savory options on the menu include Butter Fries: Kennebec french fries topped with house cultured butter. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld is very much the lead voice at Che Fico with Pinkerton in charge of desserts, while it’s loosely vice versa for Theorita with Pinkerton’s baking and desserts as center stage, and Nayfeld responsible for the main breakfast, lunch and dinner food menu that compliments Pinkerton's extensive program. The experience at both restaurants is truly elevated to a pretty special level because of the unique ideas and skills each brings to the two kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130518\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130518\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00196-e1537311078670.jpg\" alt=\"House made English muffins with jam and foie gras butter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House made English muffins with jam and foie gras butter. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld’s creations at Theorita vastly differ from Che Fico, but do have a similar contemporary/Californian take on a classic cuisine, just with Italy replaced by Iowa or Indiana. The dinner menu takes over at 5 PM, complemented by an impressive list of natural wines and Northern California beers. The double-stack burger with “special sauce” and both raw and caramelized onions on a potato bun is a blissfully messy affair, with the Marin Sun Farms “Mindful Meat” ground beef given a distinctive griddled exterior char ($15). It’s one of the most popular items for lunch and dinner with the fried chicken sandwich ($13) spruced up with shredded cabbage and housemade Sriracha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130516\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130516\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00194-e1537310832455.jpg\" alt=\"The Theorita burger\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Theorita burger \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s pastry case welcome guests at the door, where menus for counter service often mean there is a lot of lingering (it’s table service at night and planned to begin for weekend brunch soon) in front of the tempting baked goods. Then there are the diner design staples once you get past the entrance area — an open kitchen with stations in a line from griddle to fryer to salad assembly; a dozen stools at the granite kitchen counter; tufted booths in flannel, denim and leather that are inspired by the wardrobe that Pinkerton’s grandfather wears in a photo at the entrance with his wife, Theorita, and a motorcycle; and a glazed black and white tile floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some modern elements from designer Jon de la Cruz (Che Fico, Leo's Oyster Bar) step into the equation, too, like exposed concrete walls and rafters above; colorful, groovy paintings of various people by local artist Tracy Piper above the booths; and a window in the rear of the space that allows diners to see into the pastry kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00212-e1537311444572.jpg\" alt=\"Make sure to save room for dessert like this Brownie Sundae\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Make sure to save room for dessert like this Brownie Sundae \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Calling Theorita just a “pie shop and dinette” is selling it short, much like labeling Che Fico as a place for just pizza and pasta. It’s a vintage Americana experience that reaches back in time, while leaping forwards, and making the genre fresh again. A ricotta and berry Danish or a pile of butter fries might not convince us that happy days are here again. However, for at least a few moments, these days are ours when sitting in a Theorita booth and digging into a slice of pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"www.theorita.com\">Theorita\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n834 Divisadero St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/theoritasf/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theoritasf/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Breakfast Wednesday-Friday 7AM-11AM and Saturday-Sunday 8AM-3PM. Lunch Wednesday-Sunday 11AM-3PM. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday 5PM-11PM. Pastry case is open all day.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $-$$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"James Beard Award Winning Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton and her Che Fico Colleagues Offer Up a Slice of Pie and Midwest Dinerette Culture to SF’s Hottest Dining Corridor","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1537810193,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":2813},"headData":{"title":"Sundaes, Pies and Butter Fries Arrive on Divisadero at Theorita | KQED","description":"James Beard Award Winning Pastry Chef Angela Pinkerton and her Che Fico Colleagues Offer Up a Slice of Pie and Midwest Dinerette Culture to SF’s Hottest Dining Corridor","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Sundaes, Pies and Butter Fries Arrive on Divisadero at Theorita","datePublished":"2018-09-21T16:37:31.000Z","dateModified":"2018-09-24T17:29:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"130503 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=130503","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/09/21/sundaes-pies-and-butter-fries-arrive-on-divisadero-at-theorita/","disqusTitle":"Sundaes, Pies and Butter Fries Arrive on Divisadero at Theorita","path":"/bayareabites/130503/sundaes-pies-and-butter-fries-arrive-on-divisadero-at-theorita","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Baking a standout pie isn’t, well, as “easy as pie.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chances are extremely high that the majority of San Francisco home cooks aren’t baking their own pie because, from blueberry with a lattice crust to mincemeat with a brown sugar crumble, pies aren’t just a trivial “add a few ingredients, mix, throw in oven, and forget it while you answer emails” type of recipe if you’re going at it fully from scratch. Sure, the Pillsbury dough boy can help cut a few pie corners when you desperately want to put a pie on the table promptly, but, when crust is 50 to 60% of the whole pie equation, the likelihood of a transcendent pie in that case will have already been cut dramatically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s no way around it—pies need tender loving care. San Francisco’s unofficial newly crowned master of the pie-baking art, Angela Pinkerton, offers up some critical advice to aspiring pie bakers that her “secret” to outstanding pie results isn’t really a deep piece of wisdom but something we need to be reminded: relax. Don’t overwork the dough. Don’t over-season the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s baking office these days is at four-week old \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/www.theorita.com\">Theorita\u003c/a>, a contemporary take on a mid 20th century Midwest dinette (think an intimate diner with a condensed menu) on the ground floor of a renovated autobody shop, below its neighbor and Divisadero’s scorching hot Cali-Italian cooking destination, Che Fico. Her name might ring a bell from a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">somewhat recent article\u003c/a> on this website when this writer chronicled the opening days of Che Fico, where Pinkerton is responsible for the fantastic rustic desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130507\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00215-e1537309912409.jpg\" alt=\"Pinkerton's grandmother is the restaurant's namesake.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinkerton's grandmother is the restaurant's namesake. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To this day, Che Fico remains the most in-demand table of the moment, neck-and-neck with State Bird Provisions with who can have a longer sidewalk line at 6 PM on a given night. Anderson Cooper and Gwyneth Paltrow both dined at Che Fico and gave it \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2018/4/23/17270828/gwyneth-paltrow-che-fico-sf-instagram\">the Instagram love\u003c/a>. Che Fico is an anchor for dining on the Divisadero corridor, the hottest restaurant zone in the city. The area is at the heart of the gentrification debate, arguably the hottest topic these days in San Francisco. It’s where $4 toast was invented. Google buses clog Divisadero’s narrow four lanes at morning and evening rush hour times. Real estate prices in the area are skyrocketing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is just so much…EVERYTHING…right now in that particular neighborhood at this particular time. The sudden growth and controversies and the debates surrounding could all use a slice of humble pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130510\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130510\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00203-e1537310101636.jpg\" alt=\"Pinkerton's pies on display\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pinkerton's pies on display \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And, on cue, here is Theorita, full of a case of Pinkerton’s unfussy, spectacular pies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, tucked inside by the sidewalk adjacent window, is a classic apple pie on display, perhaps next to the somewhat unexpected corn custard pie and the very unexpected passion fruit with bay leaf cream pie (slices are $5.50 and whole pies are $34). You’ll always find bourbon-chocolate-walnut pie because, Pinkerton joked to us, “San Francisco can’t get enough bourbon,” but it probably has a lot to do with the term “chocolate” in the filling. There might be a summer berry pie, or a peach and oatmeal crumble pie, or a raspberry and white nectarine pie, or a smaller “sweetie pie” topped with practically a whole pound of strawberries or raspberries (usually $10), or who knows what else is in season that Pinkerton is inspired by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00214-e1537310002344.jpg\" alt=\"The PB & J pie à la mode\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PB & J pie à la mode \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Even that childhood sandwich favorite, PB & J, gets translated into a pie form with a crust similar to a peanut butter-oatmeal cookie and a “jelly” filling made of seedless Thomcords that are really only in season for the tail end of summer like tomatoes. Pinkerton is constantly tinkering with new pie crusts, fillings and toppings. There might be some chocolate in one crust or rosemary to join fresh raspberries. She’s having every bit as much fun within the genre of “pie” as the chefs upstairs are having with pasta. It’s really exciting to watch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not just pies, however, to tempt your sweet tooth. The salted pecan sticky bun is what generally jumps out to prospective diners first at the green-hued pastry case. It often resides next to a puffy brioche-based chocolate orange sugar bun. Then there are Danishes often filled with a sweet cheese of some sort and sometimes with berries or fruit. Pies might be the specialty of the house but Pinkerton wants Danishes to be considered the vital supporting character in the bakery cast. There are no croissants to be found, but those Danishes and savory roasted scallion “swirls” are part of the laminated dough family. You’ll also encounter “quick breads” and more breakfast-friendly baked items like a chamomile ginger scone and or a chocolate zucchini muffin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130511\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00201-e1537310206308.jpg\" alt=\"It’s not just pies at Theorita that will tempt your sweet tooth.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It’s not just pies at Theorita that will tempt your sweet tooth. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, wait, then there are the cookies that range widely in size, shape and texture from seeds n’ berries oatmeal to sweet potato and coffee (most cookies are $3 and pastries are usually $4-$5). On the competitive San Francisco chocolate chip cookie scene, Pinkerton is very much trying to balance a crunchy exterior with a soft, tender interior and a good dose of butter for richness without being too distracting from the Vahlrona chocolate chunks. She aspires for the “best of both worlds” and the city’s cookie monsters appreciate that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco’s diverse and abundant baking scene is one of the giant reasons that attracted Pinkerton to relocate to the Bay Area in the first place. And, her repertoire offered at Theorita very much follows in the same tradition of our local legends like Tartine, b. Patisserie and Craftsman & Wolves—baked goods that are comforting and approachable, slightly rooted in a classic American or French nature, then often given a clever tweak or seasonal produce boost. San Francisco baking doesn’t follow the rigid structure of, say, a Parisian patisserie or a Viennese bakery. We’re all about butter, sugar, produce and delicious fun. Theorita is now the latest stop on our city’s phenomenal tour de pastry cases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s personal journey didn’t involve staging at a legendary bakery or a canelé epiphany in the French countryside. It started in a very different countryside — what her website describes as the “rolling hills” of northeastern Ohio, though this writer lived for a year about an hour away and can attest that the “hills” are mild enough that he had to run in and out of sand bunkers on a golf course to get a hill workout. Simply put, it’s very pastoral farmland in northeast Ohio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her hometown of Alliance, Ohio, is the vintage slice of wholesome Americana that is rapidly disappearing from this country. It resides near the Akron-Canton part of the Buckeye state, just south of Cleveland, and best known to outsiders for being the home region of Lebron James, the Pro Football Hall of Fame, and Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company. Then there is a fourth thing that locals correctly boast about the area: the apple orchards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her maternal grandparents had an orchard, so its apple crop was always a part of Pinkerton’s childhood. Meanwhile, her parents always had a garden and young Pinkerton would help out with cooking at home. Becoming a chef was never something that she thought about while growing up, but there is no doubt that food, especially pie, was instrumental in her youth. Her grandmother, Theorita (the restaurant’s namesake), had spent decades perfecting various kinds of pies as the mother of five children and because her husband always wanted dessert. Pie was a somewhat fast, somewhat easy, and very delicious way to please the growing kids and hungry husband.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00216-e1537310376974.jpg\" alt=\"The "Theorita" logo was handwritten by Pinkerton's grandmother.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \"Theorita\" logo was handwritten by Pinkerton's grandmother. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton later pursued a biology degree at Kent State and took a job working as a clerk at a bakery, which evolved into a full-time gig baking wedding cakes while also being a student. She left Kent State to open her own wedding cakes concept, “Let Them Eat Cake,” and then opted to learn more about savory cooking with a kitchen job at a local country club. After being largely self-taught, Pinkerton figured that a proper culinary education would greatly help her career prospects. So, she left Ohio for the swamp of our nation’s capital and studied pastry arts the now-closed L’Academie de Cuisine just outside D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her next stop after graduation was as a pastry chef for the Ritz-Carlton, Pentagon City, where she doesn’t have too many juicy politician stories to tell, but says there was “always drama, always something” going on. It was definitely a world away from Alliance, Ohio. As grand a stage as Arlington, Virginia is, Pinkerton was ready for the grander stage of a restaurant in the grandest restaurant market of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s first “restaurant job” happened to be at Eleven Madison Park in New York, which at the time in 2007, was not one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants.” It was merely an excellent restaurant in a gorgeous setting, owned by New York’s most successful restaurateur (Danny Meyer) and an innovative, immensely talented ex-San Francisco chef (Campton Place) named Daniel Humm. Eleven Madison Park wasn’t Eleven Madison Park back then. But, it was still a huge deal with the same name and a different type of ambition than it has now. For a first restaurant job to be there, well, it’s a huge accomplishment with not your average job debut pressure. Pinkerton clearly was ready and even chuckles when every writer, including this one, asks about how her first restaurant job was at the “pinnacle of her profession.” For Pinkerton, it was just her first restaurant job. It was work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2009 was the breakthrough transition year for Eleven Madison Park and Pinkerton. Frank Bruni, then the New York Times Dining Critic, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/12/dining/reviews/12rest.html\">awarded four stars for the restaurant\u003c/a>, a title held only by five restaurants today. That year, Pinkerton was promoted from Pastry Sous Chef to Executive Pastry Chef, and she deservedly reached the national spotlight in 2011 by taking the highest honor in the country for a pastry chef: the James Beard award for Outstanding Pastry Chef. \u003ca href=\"http://www.the-review.com/article/20110626/LIFESTYLE/306269490\">Here’s a fun piece\u003c/a> about that honor from her hometown’s newspaper in Ohio.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton held the Executive Pastry Chef title at Eleven Madison Park for five years, overseeing a period when the restaurant had no shortage of cleverness and lofty ambition, serving carrot tartare in place of beef, for example, and creating a “New York History” tasting menu that included a mystery card game to determine one of the desserts for each diner. In 2014, she left the restaurant and New York for the greener (golden, really) pastures of San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130525\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130525\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DLCID_CheFico110-e1537376098184.jpg\" alt=\"Angela Pinkerton with her restaurant partners, David Nayfeld and Matthew Brewer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1278\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Angela Pinkerton with her restaurant partners, David Nayfeld and Matthew Brewer. \u003ccite>(Kira Lauren)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This is where we need to step in and clarify for the general dining public that Pinkerton didn’t move to San Francisco because of Che Fico and Theorita, contrary to what many articles suggest. Pinkerton overlapped with David Nayfeld in Eleven Madison Park’s kitchen for a few years and the two became friends. Nayfeld is a Bay Area native and had subsequently moved to San Francisco after Eleven Madison Park, so the two connected and Nayfeld helped Pinkerton adjust to the Bay Area. She would even go to his family’s home for Thanksgiving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton spent several months working with Craftsman and Wolves’ William Werner to develop new pastries, coinciding with that bakery’s expansion to Russian Hill (now closed) and the Bayview, and a potential addition in Los Angeles that never happened. However, she really missed the energy of being in a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld always had plans for a Divisadero restaurant (what became Che Fico) with business partner Matt Brewer, a driving force behind some of Chicago’s marquee restaurants as a co-founder of the restaurant group Hogsalt Hospitality. Pinkerton signed on to help with their restaurant’s dessert program. Then, things really fell into place a little bit by chance when the third project of the Divisadero former auto shop complex (Che Fico, Boba Guys and Concept C) fell through. Che Fico’s investors were huge fans of Pinkerton’s work, both from her resume and desserts she made at dinners for them in San Francisco. So, this third space could be her domain. Pinkerton admits that it was “kind of crazy” that Che Fico and Theorita opened so close together, but the team was ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130513\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00184-e1537310532684.jpg\" alt=\"Savory options on the menu include Butter Fries: Kennebec french fries topped with house cultured butter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savory options on the menu include Butter Fries: Kennebec french fries topped with house cultured butter. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld is very much the lead voice at Che Fico with Pinkerton in charge of desserts, while it’s loosely vice versa for Theorita with Pinkerton’s baking and desserts as center stage, and Nayfeld responsible for the main breakfast, lunch and dinner food menu that compliments Pinkerton's extensive program. The experience at both restaurants is truly elevated to a pretty special level because of the unique ideas and skills each brings to the two kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130518\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130518\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00196-e1537311078670.jpg\" alt=\"House made English muffins with jam and foie gras butter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">House made English muffins with jam and foie gras butter. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nayfeld’s creations at Theorita vastly differ from Che Fico, but do have a similar contemporary/Californian take on a classic cuisine, just with Italy replaced by Iowa or Indiana. The dinner menu takes over at 5 PM, complemented by an impressive list of natural wines and Northern California beers. The double-stack burger with “special sauce” and both raw and caramelized onions on a potato bun is a blissfully messy affair, with the Marin Sun Farms “Mindful Meat” ground beef given a distinctive griddled exterior char ($15). It’s one of the most popular items for lunch and dinner with the fried chicken sandwich ($13) spruced up with shredded cabbage and housemade Sriracha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130516\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130516\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00194-e1537310832455.jpg\" alt=\"The Theorita burger\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Theorita burger \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Pinkerton’s pastry case welcome guests at the door, where menus for counter service often mean there is a lot of lingering (it’s table service at night and planned to begin for weekend brunch soon) in front of the tempting baked goods. Then there are the diner design staples once you get past the entrance area — an open kitchen with stations in a line from griddle to fryer to salad assembly; a dozen stools at the granite kitchen counter; tufted booths in flannel, denim and leather that are inspired by the wardrobe that Pinkerton’s grandfather wears in a photo at the entrance with his wife, Theorita, and a motorcycle; and a glazed black and white tile floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some modern elements from designer Jon de la Cruz (Che Fico, Leo's Oyster Bar) step into the equation, too, like exposed concrete walls and rafters above; colorful, groovy paintings of various people by local artist Tracy Piper above the booths; and a window in the rear of the space that allows diners to see into the pastry kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-130520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/09/DSC00212-e1537311444572.jpg\" alt=\"Make sure to save room for dessert like this Brownie Sundae\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Make sure to save room for dessert like this Brownie Sundae \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Calling Theorita just a “pie shop and dinette” is selling it short, much like labeling Che Fico as a place for just pizza and pasta. It’s a vintage Americana experience that reaches back in time, while leaping forwards, and making the genre fresh again. A ricotta and berry Danish or a pile of butter fries might not convince us that happy days are here again. However, for at least a few moments, these days are ours when sitting in a Theorita booth and digging into a slice of pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"www.theorita.com\">Theorita\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n834 Divisadero St.\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94117\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/theoritasf/\">Facebook\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/theoritasf/\">Instagram\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Breakfast Wednesday-Friday 7AM-11AM and Saturday-Sunday 8AM-3PM. Lunch Wednesday-Sunday 11AM-3PM. Dinner Wednesday-Sunday 5PM-11PM. Pastry case is open all day.\u003cbr>\nPrice: $-$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/130503/sundaes-pies-and-butter-fries-arrive-on-divisadero-at-theorita","authors":["11338","11404"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"featImg":"bayareabites_130506","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_129373":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_129373","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"129373","score":null,"sort":[1532699550000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","title":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","publishDate":1532699550,"format":"image","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg\" alt=\"In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129706\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful \u003ca href=\"http://www.onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a> concept). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/people\">Caleb Zigas\u003c/a>, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1588\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129715\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-800x662.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-768x635.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1020x844.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1200x993.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1180x976.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-960x794.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-240x199.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-375x310.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-520x430.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.besharamrestaurant.com/\">Besharam\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Besharam/@37.754276,-122.3916646,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7f0ce31950a5:0x7718a923d0103fe2!8m2!3d37.7542718!4d-122.3894705\">1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129719\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. \u003cstrong>Chef and co-owner Heena Patel\u003c/strong> decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by \u003ca href=\"https://hatecopy.com/\">HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\u003c/a> next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129737\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg\" alt=\"Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129737\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129738\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129742\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam Lunch Menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129742\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam Lunch Menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129746\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of Besharam desserts.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129746\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of Besharam desserts. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/qITc3R1akO0\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam signage on the front door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129728\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam signage on the front door. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/El+Huarache+Loco/@37.9474025,-122.5116057,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a43f733d57f:0xdf3b9d5506983993!8m2!3d37.9473983!4d-122.5094116\">1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129756\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>No, there are no burritos on the menu at \u003cstrong>Veronica Salazar’s\u003c/strong> restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg\" alt=\"Huarache Con Costillo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129759\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huarache Con Costillo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg\" alt=\"Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129765\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129762\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish taco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129762\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish taco \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129760\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ensalada Doña Luz\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129760\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ensalada Doña Luz \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129764\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg\" alt=\"El Huarache Loco outside eating area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Huarache Loco outside eating area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.minniebellssoul.com/\">Minnie Bell’s Soul Food Movement\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Public+Market/@37.8412911,-122.2938373,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x68a7c0c0b72fc684!8m2!3d37.8412911!4d-122.2938373\">5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129797\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg\" alt=\"A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg\" alt=\"The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129804\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129804\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Greens. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Beans & Rice Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Beans & Rice Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg\" alt=\"McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say "EST. IN FILLMOE."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say \"EST. IN FILLMOE.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129781\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg\" alt=\""Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129812\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself\" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, Wise Sons and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a>. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nyum+Bai/@37.7763222,-122.224679,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc85f72f420fd5355?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX94G4g63cAhVD7VQKHe60B8UQ_BIItAEwDQ\">3340 E 12th St., Oakland Suite 11\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prahok Ktiss\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prahok Ktiss \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1077\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1200x673.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1180x662.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-960x539.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ngoum Banana Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ngoum Banana Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129820\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129821\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129848\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129848\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg\" alt=\"Colorful Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai outdoor eating space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129849\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai outdoor eating space. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Reem's+California/@37.7754485,-122.2247451,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x850f93f103291775!8m2!3d37.7754485!4d-122.2247451\">3301 E 12th St #133, Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dyafa/@37.7936067,-122.2743699,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xe8e7c53f0e32d9ab!8m2!3d37.7936067!4d-122.2743699\">44 Webster St., Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg\" alt=\"#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129869\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg\" alt=\"Welcome sign at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129866\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welcome sign at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg\" alt=\"What's a Man'oushe?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What's a Man'oushe? \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg\" alt=\"Za'atar Man'oushe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129876\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Za'atar Man'oushe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/37826/jon-darskys-del-popolo-pizza-of-the-people\">Del Popolo\u003c/a> to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil's husband, J behind the front counter at Reem's. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's husband, J behind the front counter sporting a shirt that says \"Freedom to STAY, Freedom to MOVE, Freedom to RETURN.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129870\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg\" alt=\"The dining area at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129870\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining area at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg\" alt=\"Falafel Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falafel Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg\" alt=\"The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129873\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129875\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">Restaurants Opportunities Center United\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg\" alt=\"Open kitchen at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open kitchen at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mezze Sampler at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezze Sampler at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg\" alt=\"View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bar at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_of_Oscar_Grant\">Oscar Grant\u003c/a> (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129863\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/23/15820576/reems-arab-bakery-rasema-odeh-oakland-controversy\">large controversy\u003c/a> emerged. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1858px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg\" alt=\"Statement about the mural.\" width=\"1858\" height=\"1239\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129874\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg 1858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1858px) 100vw, 1858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Statement about the mural. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, \u003ca href=\"https://www.breitbart.com/california/2017/06/20/oakland-bakery-pays-homage-to-convicted-soon-to-be-deported-palestinian-terrorist-rasmea-odeh/\">Breitbart\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to \u003cstrong>“#Feelthewarmth”\u003c/strong> and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors \u003ca href=\"http://www.aleindustries.com/\">Ale Industries\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A tour through the menus and remarkable stories of six Bay Area restaurants from five La Cocina kitchen incubator graduates.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1532972453,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":86,"wordCount":7842},"headData":{"title":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses | KQED","description":"A tour through the menus and remarkable stories of six Bay Area restaurants from five La Cocina kitchen incubator graduates.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","datePublished":"2018-07-27T13:52:30.000Z","dateModified":"2018-07-30T17:40:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"129373 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=129373","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/07/27/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses/","disqusTitle":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/129373/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg\" alt=\"In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129706\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful \u003ca href=\"http://www.onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a> concept). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/people\">Caleb Zigas\u003c/a>, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1588\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129715\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-800x662.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-768x635.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1020x844.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1200x993.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1180x976.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-960x794.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-240x199.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-375x310.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-520x430.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.besharamrestaurant.com/\">Besharam\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Besharam/@37.754276,-122.3916646,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7f0ce31950a5:0x7718a923d0103fe2!8m2!3d37.7542718!4d-122.3894705\">1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129719\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. \u003cstrong>Chef and co-owner Heena Patel\u003c/strong> decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by \u003ca href=\"https://hatecopy.com/\">HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\u003c/a> next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129737\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg\" alt=\"Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129737\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129738\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129742\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam Lunch Menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129742\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam Lunch Menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129746\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of Besharam desserts.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129746\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of Besharam desserts. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/qITc3R1akO0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/qITc3R1akO0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam signage on the front door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129728\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam signage on the front door. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/El+Huarache+Loco/@37.9474025,-122.5116057,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a43f733d57f:0xdf3b9d5506983993!8m2!3d37.9473983!4d-122.5094116\">1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129756\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>No, there are no burritos on the menu at \u003cstrong>Veronica Salazar’s\u003c/strong> restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg\" alt=\"Huarache Con Costillo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129759\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huarache Con Costillo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg\" alt=\"Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129765\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129762\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish taco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129762\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish taco \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129760\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ensalada Doña Luz\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129760\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ensalada Doña Luz \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129764\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg\" alt=\"El Huarache Loco outside eating area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Huarache Loco outside eating area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.minniebellssoul.com/\">Minnie Bell’s Soul Food Movement\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Public+Market/@37.8412911,-122.2938373,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x68a7c0c0b72fc684!8m2!3d37.8412911!4d-122.2938373\">5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129797\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg\" alt=\"A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg\" alt=\"The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129804\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129804\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Greens. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Beans & Rice Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Beans & Rice Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg\" alt=\"McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say "EST. IN FILLMOE."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say \"EST. IN FILLMOE.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129781\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg\" alt=\""Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129812\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself\" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, Wise Sons and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a>. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nyum+Bai/@37.7763222,-122.224679,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc85f72f420fd5355?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX94G4g63cAhVD7VQKHe60B8UQ_BIItAEwDQ\">3340 E 12th St., Oakland Suite 11\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prahok Ktiss\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prahok Ktiss \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1077\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1200x673.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1180x662.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-960x539.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ngoum Banana Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ngoum Banana Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129820\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129821\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129848\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129848\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg\" alt=\"Colorful Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai outdoor eating space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129849\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai outdoor eating space. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Reem's+California/@37.7754485,-122.2247451,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x850f93f103291775!8m2!3d37.7754485!4d-122.2247451\">3301 E 12th St #133, Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dyafa/@37.7936067,-122.2743699,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xe8e7c53f0e32d9ab!8m2!3d37.7936067!4d-122.2743699\">44 Webster St., Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg\" alt=\"#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129869\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg\" alt=\"Welcome sign at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129866\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welcome sign at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg\" alt=\"What's a Man'oushe?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What's a Man'oushe? \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg\" alt=\"Za'atar Man'oushe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129876\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Za'atar Man'oushe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/37826/jon-darskys-del-popolo-pizza-of-the-people\">Del Popolo\u003c/a> to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil's husband, J behind the front counter at Reem's. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's husband, J behind the front counter sporting a shirt that says \"Freedom to STAY, Freedom to MOVE, Freedom to RETURN.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129870\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg\" alt=\"The dining area at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129870\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining area at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg\" alt=\"Falafel Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falafel Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg\" alt=\"The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129873\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129875\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">Restaurants Opportunities Center United\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg\" alt=\"Open kitchen at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open kitchen at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mezze Sampler at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezze Sampler at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg\" alt=\"View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bar at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_of_Oscar_Grant\">Oscar Grant\u003c/a> (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129863\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/23/15820576/reems-arab-bakery-rasema-odeh-oakland-controversy\">large controversy\u003c/a> emerged. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1858px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg\" alt=\"Statement about the mural.\" width=\"1858\" height=\"1239\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129874\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg 1858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1858px) 100vw, 1858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Statement about the mural. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, \u003ca href=\"https://www.breitbart.com/california/2017/06/20/oakland-bakery-pays-homage-to-convicted-soon-to-be-deported-palestinian-terrorist-rasmea-odeh/\">Breitbart\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to \u003cstrong>“#Feelthewarmth”\u003c/strong> and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors \u003ca href=\"http://www.aleindustries.com/\">Ale Industries\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/129373/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","authors":["byline_bayareabites_129373"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_16211","bayareabites_16212","bayareabites_9845","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16213","bayareabites_15743","bayareabites_15551"],"featImg":"bayareabites_129917","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_128414":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_128414","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"128414","score":null,"sort":[1527177881000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore","title":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore","publishDate":1527177881,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of that outrageously talented friend or colleague or family member in your life who is truly a Renaissance man or woman…you know, the one who is just so great at so many things from tennis to yoga to coding to playing the cello, and is a complete fountain of knowledge for everything from fixing dishwashers to knowing which Goethe poem is the best? Well, as far as restaurant-market-café-larders go in San Francisco, the closest equivalent is Merchant Roots, an eminently charming addition to the \u003ca href=\"http://statebirdsf.com/home/\">State Bird Provisions\u003c/a> side of Fillmore on the thoroughfare’s rapidly growing dining stretch south of Geary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to give a blanket label for this concept, long in the making by business and life partners Ryan Shelton and Madison Michael. There really is nothing quite like it in the Bay Area. You can come for a homemade scone and a cup of coffee at 9am. You can feel free to drop by for a plate of pasta (yes, homemade) and a glass of Prosecco to treat yourself to a late afternoon lunch feast. You can pick up a kale and chicken salad or a sandwich (on homemade focaccia, obviously) to-go en route to catching the 38R on Geary. You can buy dry or wet pasta for dinner at home and pair it with a bottle from the under-the-radar wine boutique that is tucked in the far corner of the tiny Merchant Roots space. Then there are homemade soaps, sipping chocolate mixes, homemade jams, freshly baked quiche slices…we could go on. Then the next stage of the project, \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>, comes in a few weeks as the next marquee tasting menu for a rapidly growing category in San Francisco, except this one might be considered the most whimsical — and intimate — of the elite bunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128492\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128492\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this resides in a 1000–square foot space that somehow manages to feel spacious and not seem cluttered whatsoever. Yes, it’s all pretty overwhelming but also so relaxed and calm when you step inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest comparison for Merchant Roots is \u003ca href=\"https://www.brooklynfare.com/pages/chefs-table\">Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare\u003c/a> in New York, a casual shop in the daytime and ambitious tasting menu in the nighttime hybrid that has received global accolades for its inventiveness. Healdsburg has \u003ca href=\"https://healdsburgshed.com/\">SHED\u003c/a> but that so-called “grange” is about 10 times bigger than Merchant Roots and has a twee-bucolic lifestyle theme that strikes many as precious with its fermentation lab, quinoa salads and rather pricey kitchen tools. In the end, they’re vaguely related but really hard to directly compare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing every guest notices while walking by Merchant Roots is the window’s eye-catching hand-painted sign by Bay Area artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/coolhandken/\">Ken Davis\u003c/a> that sets the tone for the shop’s contemporary interpretation of retro design inside. It could easily be a sign for a blacksmith shop in the Wild West, but also seems hip. It’s timeless and elegant cursive with artistic flair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then your eyes wander past the sign into the actual window where sous chef David Hamilton-Kidd will surely be rolling out pasta dough or cranking dough through the Torchio hand-press pasta maker. Fillmore pedestrians stop by, planned or unplanned nowadays, to watch the pasta making process like how people go window browsing around Union Square come Christmas time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Izd0upkwbYY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stepping inside, chances are high that your attention will immediately drift towards the gorgeous pastry case, where immaculate chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends and chocolate-dipped almond and anise biscotti ($3) beckon. You might be tempted by a muffin version of carrot cake with a ricotta cream cheese stuffing ($4) on one day and then a perfect slice of springtime via a strawberry and almond cream tart ($6) on the next visit. There usually will be doughnuts, perhaps a simple old-fashioned on one pedestal and a coconut-lime one made of mochi and milk dough, dusted with coconut flakes and lime zest ($3) on another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upon press time, the bakers were still perfecting a gluten-free brownie recipe but you can count on that being a major hit when it premiers soon because this town sure loves it’s gluten-free treats that actually taste as good as their flour-filled equivalents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg\" alt=\"Showstopper chocolate chip cookies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showstopper chocolate chip cookies. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, the showstopper of the crew is the chocolate chip cookie ($3) that takes the chocolate part very seriously. It’s Michael’s recipe and she is adamant about making sure that the cookie is thick and soft, but not overly doughy or cumbersome, with a just a smidge of crunch at the outer edges. You’ll certainly taste the butter in the cookie — there’s a lot of it. But, what you probably didn’t guess is that it’s actually brown cultured butter mixed with equal parts muscovado sugar and regular sugar that give it a certain alluringly sharp sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other major catch with the recipe is that Michael insists on the composition being more chocolate than cookie. That means there should be about 1.5 \u003ca href=\"https://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> dark chocolate wafers per cookie but you’ll see some cookies where that figure looks more like 3. Nobody will complain, though. A finish of fleur de sel tops what is no doubt going to be a contender in the competitive “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie” debates of San Francisco. Cookie Monster strongly approves of this new entry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg\" alt=\"Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is nothing wrong with having muffins and cookies for lunch but you’ll need real lunch food at some point. The aforementioned housemade focaccia serves as a base for a pair of sandwiches (termed sando) ($9). One is a fascinating shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot number where the shaved vegetable looks like slices of lox and comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/point-reyes-toma\">Pt. Reyes Toma cheese\u003c/a> and raisin jam. That same semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Marin joins tangy \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortadella\">mortadella\u003c/a> slices with arugula and Bavarian mustard in the other sandwich. Both are simple, precise and filling without being heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads include ever-trendy kale leaves lightly coated with preserved lemon vinaigrette. Shelton finishes it with chicken and Parmigiano Reggiano for a satisfying but virtuous midday meal ($13; $10 without chicken). Moroccan chicken salad is a completely different styled offering ($14) and brings together cashews, crispy chickpeas, yogurt and citrus-mint vinaigrette. Venturing beyond salads and sandwiches, Shelton has a little fun with an “everything” spiced, cream cheese and smoked salmon-topped quiche with a potato crust ($12). It’s a bagel and latke-minded quiche. Somebody is having fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128452\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are packaged to-go and all of them and the quiche are also available for enjoying plated in the café. Sandwiches, meanwhile, are all packaged to-go but can be consumed in Merchant Roots’ environs, along with being toasted on the spot. It’s a smart idea to have flexibility between takeout and eating-in because the lunch crowd can vary in a more residential-centered strip like this one. Future plans also call for a breakfast sandwich and a fried mortadella sando meant for dining in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re lingering for lunch, though, the must-try house meal really is the pasta, as the pasta making in the window might suggest. It’s Shelton’s specialty and one he has been fanatical about for life since being a boy growing up in San Jose as part of an Italian-American family. The enterprise could simply be Pasta Roots (or Semolina + Water?) for how important pasta is to the operation and how skilled Shelton is at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a pasta-crazed town as is proven by the dozens of Cal-Ital restaurants and even more informal red sauce and pizza joints. But, who makes their own dry and fresh pasta, pairs it with homemade sauces for enjoying in-house, and also sells both the sauces and pastas retail for you to make your own version at home? It’s definitely a tiny niche and this is a welcome addition to the diminutive club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128468\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade tomato chele pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade tomato chele pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find a handful of pastas each day on the “daily pastas” menu for freshly prepared lunch dishes. The early must-order is tomato chele ($24), shaped similarly to an unstuffed small tortellini, with just the right amount of indentations and curves to hold its sauce teammate, a lobster reduction made from the juice of lobster heads where their tails have been used as meat. Shelton finishes the dish lobster roll-style with curls of celery and buttered brioche “croutons” evoking the roll’s usual hot dog bun. Of course, the brioche is homemade, being surplus brioche from doughnut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128485\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128485\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere in the pasta neighborhood, spaghettine made on the chitarra (like a small string harp) is joined by hen ragu ($11), while ricotta cavatelli are snap pea-glazed and accompanied by lemon mascarpone and smoked prosciutto ($13). Gargatti (think short caterpillars) comes with spring vegetables and a confit tomato crema “parma rossa” sauce ($13). Sometimes there is even chilled pasta like gnochetti with pesto, roasted peppers and red onion ($9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Shelton will be serving his own charcuterie made at his commissary in the Mission (seriously, how do they make pasta, charcuterie AND pastries with with just Shelton, Michael, Hamilton-Kidd and sous chef Adriana Fleming handling almost of the day-to-day duties for the whole operation?). For now, he’s offering a charcuterie platter sourced from elsewhere ($16) and a cheese plate ($17) with good friend Eric Miller of Mission Cheese helping as a fromage whisperer/advisor. A combination of the two ($20) is also offered. On the cheese side for the combo, Pt. Reyes Toma comes with the ever popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/library-of-cheese/mt-tam\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam\u003c/a> and gooey, funky \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comt%C3%A9_cheese\">Comté\u003c/a> from France. The cured meats include pâté de campagne, speck from \u003ca href=\"http://www.redtablemeatco.com/\">Red Table\u003c/a> in Minneapolis and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soppressata\">sopressata\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.framani.com/\">Fra’Mani\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese and Charcuterie Plate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese and Charcuterie Plate \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this is very daytime-oriented food that is friendly on the wallet and has a universal appeal for all ages. Who doesn’t love a good cookie or plate of pasta? We’re all getting tired of restaurants and food makers calling themselves “craft” and “artisanal” but that is what sets Merchant Roots’ grocer component apart. There is that special homemade touch that makes nothing taste watered down. These are indeed artisan products and dishes by experts who know their way around a great doughnut and kale salad…and also know how to put on a lavish, avant-garde tasting menu feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that’s where \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong> comes into the picture, arriving in the next few weeks (probably in June). The Table is literally a monkeypod table that is used for casual communal dining during the day and will be an intimate eight-seat, one sitting dinner setting three nights a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Table at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128671\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Table at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There really is nothing like the daytime grocer part but there isn’t anything quite like the atypical, constantly evolving and bizarre nature of what Shelton and Michael are pursuing with The Table. The experience will be centered on various themes that go well beyond a time and place like the tableaus for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nextrestaurant.com/\">Next\u003c/a> in Chicago. The opening theme for The Table is “Elements” and runs nine courses from a yuzu sorbet rock for “moon” to an outrageously creative cotton candy and mint chocolate ganache “comet.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To give you an idea of how advanced these dishes are, one “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” That’s not all. The classic steak or prime rib sauces of horseradish cream and red wine demi-glace find their way onto the log. Yes, the log. The serving platter is probably even more noteworthy than anything for this one dish. Shelton made 10 of the log platters by heavily charring the gnarly wood over several weeks to the point that they were fully pitch black and then stained them to keep the striking, even haunting appearance in place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128471\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg\" alt=\"One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is just one course on one short-lived menu, but is a great reflection of the ambition on display and the ample creativity. The other bonus worth pointing out is that the opening $110 price tag per diner, while not at all cheap, is far below the total for its peers. The size and price of the menu will slightly fluctuate but several will stay in this format. Future menu themes include “Vanity Fair,” featuring everything ornate and gold-plated, and “Mermaids” with each dish literally made from sea ingredients all the way down to a bread that seems like a sourdough-fish sticks crossover. It’s made of kelp paste, haddock pureé and coconut flour (no yeast, just coconut flour paste that is inoculated over time with indigenous yeast!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clever? Mad scientist? Artist? Genius? Restless chef who is happy to be independent? Renaissance man?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shelton pretty much wears all those hats as Executive Chef/Proprietor and with Michael as Proprietress/co-pilot for the adventurous business plan. That’s the best way to understand how the grocer and The Table concepts both came about and why they can work in this particular situation. Look at their resumes and you’ll see how all of this can fit under one compact roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton is a trained pastry chef and was the lead Pastry Chef for Mountain View’s esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://cheztj.com/\">chez TJ\u003c/a>. His original South Bay home region then continued as the base for his culinary experience with time on the savory side as Chef de Cuisine at the molecular gastronomy-centric \u003ca href=\"http://www.maisonbaume.com/\">Baumé\u003c/a> in Palo Alto, followed by a short period as Executive Chef at (the now closed) Le Cigare Volant restaurant at Boony Doon Winery’s tasting room in Santa Cruz. His permanent career and residential move to San Francisco led him to Polk Street where he was Executive Chef for the highly rated but short-lived Verbena and its short-lived tenure as Reverb Kitchen & Bar (it’s now \u003ca href=\"http://www.mezcalitosf.com/\">Mezcalito\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael’s background is more in beverages as a certified sommelier and includes time working at bars like The Thomas in Napa (since closed) and the sensational Kauai tiki bar, \u003ca href=\"http://tikiiniki.com/\">Tiki Iniki\u003c/a>, in addition to restaurants with strong wine and bar programs like \u003ca href=\"http://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a> and Verbena/Reverb. But, she’s also gifted at a whole array of other food-oriented crafts and actually a certified cheese expert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for Merchant Roots’ grocer side has been in Shelton’s mind for many years but the wheels were truly set in motion after he and Michael worked 100 days straight at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/3/24/8283513/verbena-quietly-shifts-concept-will-re-open-this-week-as-reverb\">Reverb\u003c/a> — only to see the restaurant then close. Both knew that a sustainable quality of life had to be part of the equation for their personal project, an idea that sadly isn’t seen much in the restaurant and bar industry. So, Michael thought about the three-night-a-week Table to go with the five-day-a-week grocer as a balanced solution with their personal lives (Michael has a nine-year old son) and diverse talents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Michael’s chocolate chip cookie contribution may one day lead to a Cookie Roots spin-off but many of her contributions to Merchant Roots could honestly have their own spin-off. The most obvious, of course, would be the wine shop component. It will grow to have 84 labels of engaging wines from notable (mostly younger and less “famous”) producers in California, France, Spain, Italy and some of the lesser-known regions at home and abroad. Think of it as a wine-choosing app but…with the human concierge already making tough decisions for you. San Francisco isn’t lacking in great wine boutiques but several of the celebrated ones (K&L, Flatiron) can be daunting to navigate with too many choices and not enough help. Labels at Merchant Roots have standouts from the new California Wine front (Broc, Matthiasson) but also the equivalent upstart game-changers in Europe like Le Macchiole and Peter Later. Michael doesn’t delve into the pricey trophy wines of Napa and Bordeaux, and does keep value-minded options kindly in mind with a surprising number of enjoyable $10-$15 wines on hand. If you’re staying at the shop for lunch, a half-dozen of the wines are poured by-the-glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128491\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Larder\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Larder \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The larder on the wall opposite is also largely Michael’s domain. She makes preserves (all $7) in all sorts of tempting bright colors and flavors that are already at the top of the very small list of San Francisco-made jams, marmalades and jellies. A jar of mandarin jelly combines satsumas and clementines, while the yuzu marmalade features citrus rind and Navel orange. Right now in the heart of spring, there’s a rhubarb-pear jam and a Meyer lemon jam featuring whole pulp in the mix for an extra sweet and sour punch. Hopefully those jams will be served on toast one day (this is San Francisco, after all) but for now you can at least find the rhubarb jam dotting the cheese plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128488\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Merchant Roots jam\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merchant Roots jam \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salts in the larder are mixed in-house and will tempt home cooks just as much as the preserves. The roster of salts goes well beyond the ubiquitous sea salt with Elemental salt (eucalyptus, Szechuan peppercorn, volcanic salt, lemon) and Sicilian salt (Calabrian chile, oregano, rosemary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128496\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128496\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg\" alt=\"Salts in the larder are mixed in-house.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salts in the larder are mixed in-house. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, there are the soaps. Yes, soaps. Michael cleverly uses all cooking quality ingredients (coconut oil, avocado oil for example) to make the intensely fragrant soaps that make up their own line called “Milk & Raven.” Dare we say that we almost want to eat them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128487\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find drinking chocolate at the larder, hailing from Santa Cruz. It’s one of the few things not made at Merchant Roots but don’t start calling out Shelton and Michael for this. The high caffeine, intensely concentrated flavors of the mixes are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mutarichocolate.com/\">Mutari Chocolate\u003c/a>, a true master of the art and his products are hard to find in SF. The larder’s teas come from Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://leavesandflowers.com/\">Leaves and Flowers\u003c/a> and are available to be enjoyed in-house brews. It’s worth noting that coffee for enjoying only in-house comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> of Oakland and there actually is a hidden espresso maker if you ask for a cappuccino. Yes, this might be San Francisco’s first espresso speakeasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merchant Roots’ home is as adorable as the concept itself, thanks mostly to a large woven fiber art piece (Instagram alert!) by local weaver \u003ca href=\"https://www.meghanshimek.com/\">Meghan Bogden Shimek\u003c/a>. Foldable café tables are attached to the fiber piece’s wall (those tables will be collapsed for dinner service) and have extremely comfortable copper wire chairs draped with faux furs for sitting in. The Table itself resides between the art piece wall and the wine wall. Do note that The Table’s utensils won’t skimp on the luxurious quality with pottery by Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://koidestudio.com/index.html\">Kiyomi Kiode\u003c/a> and ferociously delicate and refined wine glasses by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sophienwald.com/en/\">Sophienwald\u003c/a> of Austria. And, yes this doesn’t seem like a WiFi kind of place and you’re right about that. Leave the laptop at home or bring the hot spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg\" alt=\"Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unfairly, Merchant Roots has become the answer to an inside joke within the restaurant industry for substantial opening delays. Restaurants and bars in San Francisco are routinely delayed for the city’s notorious permitting challenges and out of control expensive prices for virtually everything. Folks in the industry sometimes say, “Yes, that restaurant is taking forever to open but it’s not Merchant Roots-level delayed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s definitely not Shelton and Michael’s fault. The over yearlong delay from the original ETA is a smorgasbord of San Francisco restaurateur challenges. One that diners don’t often think about played a key part in adding the delay — construction crews favoring the thicker wallets of wealthier investment-backed restaurants (we won’t name names). Is this where San Francisco dining is going? Can independent restaurants be helped?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This part of Fillmore Street was historically filled with black-owned shops and restaurants, along with the jazz clubs that made this the Fillmore Jazz District. Except, there are basically no jazz clubs or black-owned businesses here anymore. One of the last ones of the corridor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Fillmore-singing-blues-over-jazz-district-6747312.php?utm_campaign=sfgate&utm_source=article&utm_medium=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.sfgate.com%252Finsidescoop%252Farticle%252FThe-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php%253Ft%253D157de05c32\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a>, had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/The-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php?t=157de05c32\">relocate\u003c/a>. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman just wrote an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Fernay-McPherson-and-the-movement-that-found-12907544.php\">excellent profile about this neighborhood\u003c/a> and this sad realization for the Fillmore’s demographics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s an unfortunate change for the neighborhood, albeit one that is very reflective of Divisadero just up the hill. Both are getting increasingly gentrified like their glossy nearby peers of Hayes Valley and Fillmore in Lower Pacific Heights. Yes, this is San Francisco 2018 and we could talk all day about gentrification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, this is a story about how the newer food businesses on Fillmore all started as small business concepts and have grown into thriving projects that should be celebrated. Wise Sons, Boba Guys and State Bird Provisions all weren’t glitzy or deep money-backed when they first opened. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatangelsf.com/\">Fat Angel\u003c/a> was the very first of Hi Neighbor’s restaurants and still isn’t very well-known beyond its regulars. Avery’s chef-partner Rodney Wages went through the ringer at many top kitchens in order to start a pop-up that morphed into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>. These restaurateurs worked hard to become names known citywide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton and Michael are no different — remember that 100 days we mentioned? They sure know this industry all too well. On the side, the two have even been offering doughnut and pasta making classes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.cozymeal.com/chefs/788/chef-ryan\">Cozymeal\u003c/a> not just because it’s fun but also to make money. (Full disclosure: this writer took a pasta making class from Shelton and is now at least not awful at the difficult art). They also do high-volume catering and various other projects because, hey, when your business isn’t making money in this pricey city, how do you make money?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, both have no shortage of talent, imagination or desire to fulfill their hopes. Shelton even has a tattoo of Merchant Roots’ 1365 address in roman numerals (MCCCLXV) and a tattoo of a quail, the California state bird. The chef certainly really cares about this project and where this project calls home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128489\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128489\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Restaurateurs and entrepreneurs like Shelton and Michael champion two universally beloved things in this city, whether you’re a techie millennial or lived here 55 years: bighearted small businesses that really focus on doing a few things and doing them extremely well; and clean, high quality food. A few modern tastes find their way into Merchant Roots (kale!) but there’s also a circa 1900 era vintage sausage stuffer and a small town, everybody is welcome vibe. It’s delicious, upbeat and family-friendly — heck, even dogs will appreciate the upcoming unveiling of peanut butter raviolis for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, Shelton and Michael are doing what they want to do and luckily for diners, they do it really, really well. You can’t help but root for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantroots.com/\">\u003cstrong>Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Merchant+Roots/@37.7821316,-122.4348981,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580bbd4c63a77:0xf77eb4da52eaec2!8m2!3d37.7821274!4d-122.4327041\">1365 Fillmore St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/merchantroots/?hl=en\">@merchantroots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/merchantroots/\"> Merchant Roots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MerchantRoots\">@MerchantRoots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; The Table will serve dinner Thursday-Saturday\u003cbr>\nPrice: The Shop: $-$$; The Table: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530251457,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":47,"wordCount":4384},"headData":{"title":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore | KQED","description":"With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore","datePublished":"2018-05-24T16:04:41.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T05:50:57.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"128414 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=128414","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/24/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore/","disqusTitle":"Merchant Roots’ Daytime Grocer and Imaginative Nighttime Tasting Menu Table Arrives on Fillmore","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With all kinds of homemade foods from preserves to pastas to focaccia offered in the daytime and a Table full of constantly changing creative themes in the evening, Merchant Roots is a tiny space with grand ideas, now open in the Fillmore.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think of that outrageously talented friend or colleague or family member in your life who is truly a Renaissance man or woman…you know, the one who is just so great at so many things from tennis to yoga to coding to playing the cello, and is a complete fountain of knowledge for everything from fixing dishwashers to knowing which Goethe poem is the best? Well, as far as restaurant-market-café-larders go in San Francisco, the closest equivalent is Merchant Roots, an eminently charming addition to the \u003ca href=\"http://statebirdsf.com/home/\">State Bird Provisions\u003c/a> side of Fillmore on the thoroughfare’s rapidly growing dining stretch south of Geary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128480\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128480\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg\" alt=\"Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Merchant Roots with Business Hours signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s impossible to give a blanket label for this concept, long in the making by business and life partners Ryan Shelton and Madison Michael. There really is nothing quite like it in the Bay Area. You can come for a homemade scone and a cup of coffee at 9am. You can feel free to drop by for a plate of pasta (yes, homemade) and a glass of Prosecco to treat yourself to a late afternoon lunch feast. You can pick up a kale and chicken salad or a sandwich (on homemade focaccia, obviously) to-go en route to catching the 38R on Geary. You can buy dry or wet pasta for dinner at home and pair it with a bottle from the under-the-radar wine boutique that is tucked in the far corner of the tiny Merchant Roots space. Then there are homemade soaps, sipping chocolate mixes, homemade jams, freshly baked quiche slices…we could go on. Then the next stage of the project, \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>, comes in a few weeks as the next marquee tasting menu for a rapidly growing category in San Francisco, except this one might be considered the most whimsical — and intimate — of the elite bunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128492\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128492\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6624-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef Adriana Fleming behind the front counter and display case at Merchant Roots. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this resides in a 1000–square foot space that somehow manages to feel spacious and not seem cluttered whatsoever. Yes, it’s all pretty overwhelming but also so relaxed and calm when you step inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest comparison for Merchant Roots is \u003ca href=\"https://www.brooklynfare.com/pages/chefs-table\">Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare\u003c/a> in New York, a casual shop in the daytime and ambitious tasting menu in the nighttime hybrid that has received global accolades for its inventiveness. Healdsburg has \u003ca href=\"https://healdsburgshed.com/\">SHED\u003c/a> but that so-called “grange” is about 10 times bigger than Merchant Roots and has a twee-bucolic lifestyle theme that strikes many as precious with its fermentation lab, quinoa salads and rather pricey kitchen tools. In the end, they’re vaguely related but really hard to directly compare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing every guest notices while walking by Merchant Roots is the window’s eye-catching hand-painted sign by Bay Area artist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/coolhandken/\">Ken Davis\u003c/a> that sets the tone for the shop’s contemporary interpretation of retro design inside. It could easily be a sign for a blacksmith shop in the Wild West, but also seems hip. It’s timeless and elegant cursive with artistic flair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128461\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128461\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6475-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making fresh pasta at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then your eyes wander past the sign into the actual window where sous chef David Hamilton-Kidd will surely be rolling out pasta dough or cranking dough through the Torchio hand-press pasta maker. Fillmore pedestrians stop by, planned or unplanned nowadays, to watch the pasta making process like how people go window browsing around Union Square come Christmas time.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Izd0upkwbYY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Izd0upkwbYY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>After stepping inside, chances are high that your attention will immediately drift towards the gorgeous pastry case, where immaculate chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends and chocolate-dipped almond and anise biscotti ($3) beckon. You might be tempted by a muffin version of carrot cake with a ricotta cream cheese stuffing ($4) on one day and then a perfect slice of springtime via a strawberry and almond cream tart ($6) on the next visit. There usually will be doughnuts, perhaps a simple old-fashioned on one pedestal and a coconut-lime one made of mochi and milk dough, dusted with coconut flakes and lime zest ($3) on another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128472\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6277-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate-drizzled cannolis with Luxardo cherries dramatically peeking out of both ends. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128460\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128460\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6354-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry and Almond Cream Tart. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Upon press time, the bakers were still perfecting a gluten-free brownie recipe but you can count on that being a major hit when it premiers soon because this town sure loves it’s gluten-free treats that actually taste as good as their flour-filled equivalents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128458\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128458\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg\" alt=\"Showstopper chocolate chip cookies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6358-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showstopper chocolate chip cookies. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, the showstopper of the crew is the chocolate chip cookie ($3) that takes the chocolate part very seriously. It’s Michael’s recipe and she is adamant about making sure that the cookie is thick and soft, but not overly doughy or cumbersome, with a just a smidge of crunch at the outer edges. You’ll certainly taste the butter in the cookie — there’s a lot of it. But, what you probably didn’t guess is that it’s actually brown cultured butter mixed with equal parts muscovado sugar and regular sugar that give it a certain alluringly sharp sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other major catch with the recipe is that Michael insists on the composition being more chocolate than cookie. That means there should be about 1.5 \u003ca href=\"https://www.guittard.com/\">Guittard\u003c/a> dark chocolate wafers per cookie but you’ll see some cookies where that figure looks more like 3. Nobody will complain, though. A finish of fleur de sel tops what is no doubt going to be a contender in the competitive “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie” debates of San Francisco. Cookie Monster strongly approves of this new entry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg\" alt=\"Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1056-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Madison Michael's hands showcase the lunch menu at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is nothing wrong with having muffins and cookies for lunch but you’ll need real lunch food at some point. The aforementioned housemade focaccia serves as a base for a pair of sandwiches (termed sando) ($9). One is a fascinating shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot number where the shaved vegetable looks like slices of lox and comes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.pointreyescheese.com/point-reyes-toma\">Pt. Reyes Toma cheese\u003c/a> and raisin jam. That same semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from Marin joins tangy \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortadella\">mortadella\u003c/a> slices with arugula and Bavarian mustard in the other sandwich. Both are simple, precise and filling without being heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6676-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shaved pastrami-spiced smoked carrot sando that comes with Pt. Reyes Toma cheese and raisin jam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads include ever-trendy kale leaves lightly coated with preserved lemon vinaigrette. Shelton finishes it with chicken and Parmigiano Reggiano for a satisfying but virtuous midday meal ($13; $10 without chicken). Moroccan chicken salad is a completely different styled offering ($14) and brings together cashews, crispy chickpeas, yogurt and citrus-mint vinaigrette. Venturing beyond salads and sandwiches, Shelton has a little fun with an “everything” spiced, cream cheese and smoked salmon-topped quiche with a potato crust ($12). It’s a bagel and latke-minded quiche. Somebody is having fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128452\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6787-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kale Salad with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Chicken \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128512\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg\" alt=\"Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything'\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6409-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoked Salmon Quiche with Potato Crust, Spinach, Cream Cheese, 'Everything' \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are packaged to-go and all of them and the quiche are also available for enjoying plated in the café. Sandwiches, meanwhile, are all packaged to-go but can be consumed in Merchant Roots’ environs, along with being toasted on the spot. It’s a smart idea to have flexibility between takeout and eating-in because the lunch crowd can vary in a more residential-centered strip like this one. Future plans also call for a breakfast sandwich and a fried mortadella sando meant for dining in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128509\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128509\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6297-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Food To-Go includes salads, sandos, fresh pasta and sauce. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’re lingering for lunch, though, the must-try house meal really is the pasta, as the pasta making in the window might suggest. It’s Shelton’s specialty and one he has been fanatical about for life since being a boy growing up in San Jose as part of an Italian-American family. The enterprise could simply be Pasta Roots (or Semolina + Water?) for how important pasta is to the operation and how skilled Shelton is at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco is a pasta-crazed town as is proven by the dozens of Cal-Ital restaurants and even more informal red sauce and pizza joints. But, who makes their own dry and fresh pasta, pairs it with homemade sauces for enjoying in-house, and also sells both the sauces and pastas retail for you to make your own version at home? It’s definitely a tiny niche and this is a welcome addition to the diminutive club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128468\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128468\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg\" alt=\"Housemade tomato chele pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6621-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housemade tomato chele pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll find a handful of pastas each day on the “daily pastas” menu for freshly prepared lunch dishes. The early must-order is tomato chele ($24), shaped similarly to an unstuffed small tortellini, with just the right amount of indentations and curves to hold its sauce teammate, a lobster reduction made from the juice of lobster heads where their tails have been used as meat. Shelton finishes the dish lobster roll-style with curls of celery and buttered brioche “croutons” evoking the roll’s usual hot dog bun. Of course, the brioche is homemade, being surplus brioche from doughnut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128485\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128485\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6484-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato Chele pasta with lobster sauce, buttered brioche croutons, celery. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere in the pasta neighborhood, spaghettine made on the chitarra (like a small string harp) is joined by hen ragu ($11), while ricotta cavatelli are snap pea-glazed and accompanied by lemon mascarpone and smoked prosciutto ($13). Gargatti (think short caterpillars) comes with spring vegetables and a confit tomato crema “parma rossa” sauce ($13). Sometimes there is even chilled pasta like gnochetti with pesto, roasted peppers and red onion ($9).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, Shelton will be serving his own charcuterie made at his commissary in the Mission (seriously, how do they make pasta, charcuterie AND pastries with with just Shelton, Michael, Hamilton-Kidd and sous chef Adriana Fleming handling almost of the day-to-day duties for the whole operation?). For now, he’s offering a charcuterie platter sourced from elsewhere ($16) and a cheese plate ($17) with good friend Eric Miller of Mission Cheese helping as a fromage whisperer/advisor. A combination of the two ($20) is also offered. On the cheese side for the combo, Pt. Reyes Toma comes with the ever popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/library-of-cheese/mt-tam\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam\u003c/a> and gooey, funky \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comt%C3%A9_cheese\">Comté\u003c/a> from France. The cured meats include pâté de campagne, speck from \u003ca href=\"http://www.redtablemeatco.com/\">Red Table\u003c/a> in Minneapolis and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soppressata\">sopressata\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.framani.com/\">Fra’Mani\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128464\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128464\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese and Charcuterie Plate\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese and Charcuterie Plate \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of this is very daytime-oriented food that is friendly on the wallet and has a universal appeal for all ages. Who doesn’t love a good cookie or plate of pasta? We’re all getting tired of restaurants and food makers calling themselves “craft” and “artisanal” but that is what sets Merchant Roots’ grocer component apart. There is that special homemade touch that makes nothing taste watered down. These are indeed artisan products and dishes by experts who know their way around a great doughnut and kale salad…and also know how to put on a lavish, avant-garde tasting menu feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that’s where \u003cstrong>The Table at Merchant Roots\u003c/strong> comes into the picture, arriving in the next few weeks (probably in June). The Table is literally a monkeypod table that is used for casual communal dining during the day and will be an intimate eight-seat, one sitting dinner setting three nights a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Table at Merchant Roots\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128671\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Table at Merchant Roots \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There really is nothing like the daytime grocer part but there isn’t anything quite like the atypical, constantly evolving and bizarre nature of what Shelton and Michael are pursuing with The Table. The experience will be centered on various themes that go well beyond a time and place like the tableaus for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nextrestaurant.com/\">Next\u003c/a> in Chicago. The opening theme for The Table is “Elements” and runs nine courses from a yuzu sorbet rock for “moon” to an outrageously creative cotton candy and mint chocolate ganache “comet.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To give you an idea of how advanced these dishes are, one “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” That’s not all. The classic steak or prime rib sauces of horseradish cream and red wine demi-glace find their way onto the log. Yes, the log. The serving platter is probably even more noteworthy than anything for this one dish. Shelton made 10 of the log platters by heavily charring the gnarly wood over several weeks to the point that they were fully pitch black and then stained them to keep the striking, even haunting appearance in place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128471\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128471\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg\" alt=\"One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6707-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One “Elements” course called “Fire” centers on charcoal-grilled dry-aged New York steak, offset by charred pearl onions, crispy maitake mushrooms, leek ash and sunchoke “coal.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That is just one course on one short-lived menu, but is a great reflection of the ambition on display and the ample creativity. The other bonus worth pointing out is that the opening $110 price tag per diner, while not at all cheap, is far below the total for its peers. The size and price of the menu will slightly fluctuate but several will stay in this format. Future menu themes include “Vanity Fair,” featuring everything ornate and gold-plated, and “Mermaids” with each dish literally made from sea ingredients all the way down to a bread that seems like a sourdough-fish sticks crossover. It’s made of kelp paste, haddock pureé and coconut flour (no yeast, just coconut flour paste that is inoculated over time with indigenous yeast!).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clever? Mad scientist? Artist? Genius? Restless chef who is happy to be independent? Renaissance man?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1063-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef/Proprietor Ryan Shelton shows his recently acquired tattoo that is the address of Merchant Roots in Roman numerals. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shelton pretty much wears all those hats as Executive Chef/Proprietor and with Michael as Proprietress/co-pilot for the adventurous business plan. That’s the best way to understand how the grocer and The Table concepts both came about and why they can work in this particular situation. Look at their resumes and you’ll see how all of this can fit under one compact roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton is a trained pastry chef and was the lead Pastry Chef for Mountain View’s esteemed \u003ca href=\"http://cheztj.com/\">chez TJ\u003c/a>. His original South Bay home region then continued as the base for his culinary experience with time on the savory side as Chef de Cuisine at the molecular gastronomy-centric \u003ca href=\"http://www.maisonbaume.com/\">Baumé\u003c/a> in Palo Alto, followed by a short period as Executive Chef at (the now closed) Le Cigare Volant restaurant at Boony Doon Winery’s tasting room in Santa Cruz. His permanent career and residential move to San Francisco led him to Polk Street where he was Executive Chef for the highly rated but short-lived Verbena and its short-lived tenure as Reverb Kitchen & Bar (it’s now \u003ca href=\"http://www.mezcalitosf.com/\">Mezcalito\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael’s background is more in beverages as a certified sommelier and includes time working at bars like The Thomas in Napa (since closed) and the sensational Kauai tiki bar, \u003ca href=\"http://tikiiniki.com/\">Tiki Iniki\u003c/a>, in addition to restaurants with strong wine and bar programs like \u003ca href=\"http://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a> and Verbena/Reverb. But, she’s also gifted at a whole array of other food-oriented crafts and actually a certified cheese expert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea for Merchant Roots’ grocer side has been in Shelton’s mind for many years but the wheels were truly set in motion after he and Michael worked 100 days straight at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2015/3/24/8283513/verbena-quietly-shifts-concept-will-re-open-this-week-as-reverb\">Reverb\u003c/a> — only to see the restaurant then close. Both knew that a sustainable quality of life had to be part of the equation for their personal project, an idea that sadly isn’t seen much in the restaurant and bar industry. So, Michael thought about the three-night-a-week Table to go with the five-day-a-week grocer as a balanced solution with their personal lives (Michael has a nine-year old son) and diverse talents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, Michael’s chocolate chip cookie contribution may one day lead to a Cookie Roots spin-off but many of her contributions to Merchant Roots could honestly have their own spin-off. The most obvious, of course, would be the wine shop component. It will grow to have 84 labels of engaging wines from notable (mostly younger and less “famous”) producers in California, France, Spain, Italy and some of the lesser-known regions at home and abroad. Think of it as a wine-choosing app but…with the human concierge already making tough decisions for you. San Francisco isn’t lacking in great wine boutiques but several of the celebrated ones (K&L, Flatiron) can be daunting to navigate with too many choices and not enough help. Labels at Merchant Roots have standouts from the new California Wine front (Broc, Matthiasson) but also the equivalent upstart game-changers in Europe like Le Macchiole and Peter Later. Michael doesn’t delve into the pricey trophy wines of Napa and Bordeaux, and does keep value-minded options kindly in mind with a surprising number of enjoyable $10-$15 wines on hand. If you’re staying at the shop for lunch, a half-dozen of the wines are poured by-the-glass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128491\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Larder\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6535-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Larder \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The larder on the wall opposite is also largely Michael’s domain. She makes preserves (all $7) in all sorts of tempting bright colors and flavors that are already at the top of the very small list of San Francisco-made jams, marmalades and jellies. A jar of mandarin jelly combines satsumas and clementines, while the yuzu marmalade features citrus rind and Navel orange. Right now in the heart of spring, there’s a rhubarb-pear jam and a Meyer lemon jam featuring whole pulp in the mix for an extra sweet and sour punch. Hopefully those jams will be served on toast one day (this is San Francisco, after all) but for now you can at least find the rhubarb jam dotting the cheese plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128488\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128488\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Merchant Roots jam\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merchant Roots jam \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salts in the larder are mixed in-house and will tempt home cooks just as much as the preserves. The roster of salts goes well beyond the ubiquitous sea salt with Elemental salt (eucalyptus, Szechuan peppercorn, volcanic salt, lemon) and Sicilian salt (Calabrian chile, oregano, rosemary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128496\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128496\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg\" alt=\"Salts in the larder are mixed in-house.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6394-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salts in the larder are mixed in-house. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then, there are the soaps. Yes, soaps. Michael cleverly uses all cooking quality ingredients (coconut oil, avocado oil for example) to make the intensely fragrant soaps that make up their own line called “Milk & Raven.” Dare we say that we almost want to eat them?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128487\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6402-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lavender soap from their own line called “Milk & Raven.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find drinking chocolate at the larder, hailing from Santa Cruz. It’s one of the few things not made at Merchant Roots but don’t start calling out Shelton and Michael for this. The high caffeine, intensely concentrated flavors of the mixes are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.mutarichocolate.com/\">Mutari Chocolate\u003c/a>, a true master of the art and his products are hard to find in SF. The larder’s teas come from Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://leavesandflowers.com/\">Leaves and Flowers\u003c/a> and are available to be enjoyed in-house brews. It’s worth noting that coffee for enjoying only in-house comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> of Oakland and there actually is a hidden espresso maker if you ask for a cappuccino. Yes, this might be San Francisco’s first espresso speakeasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Merchant Roots’ home is as adorable as the concept itself, thanks mostly to a large woven fiber art piece (Instagram alert!) by local weaver \u003ca href=\"https://www.meghanshimek.com/\">Meghan Bogden Shimek\u003c/a>. Foldable café tables are attached to the fiber piece’s wall (those tables will be collapsed for dinner service) and have extremely comfortable copper wire chairs draped with faux furs for sitting in. The Table itself resides between the art piece wall and the wine wall. Do note that The Table’s utensils won’t skimp on the luxurious quality with pottery by Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://koidestudio.com/index.html\">Kiyomi Kiode\u003c/a> and ferociously delicate and refined wine glasses by \u003ca href=\"http://www.sophienwald.com/en/\">Sophienwald\u003c/a> of Austria. And, yes this doesn’t seem like a WiFi kind of place and you’re right about that. Leave the laptop at home or bring the hot spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128476\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128476\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg\" alt=\"Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6323-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Large woven fiber art piece by local weaver Meghan Bogden Shimek. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unfairly, Merchant Roots has become the answer to an inside joke within the restaurant industry for substantial opening delays. Restaurants and bars in San Francisco are routinely delayed for the city’s notorious permitting challenges and out of control expensive prices for virtually everything. Folks in the industry sometimes say, “Yes, that restaurant is taking forever to open but it’s not Merchant Roots-level delayed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s definitely not Shelton and Michael’s fault. The over yearlong delay from the original ETA is a smorgasbord of San Francisco restaurateur challenges. One that diners don’t often think about played a key part in adding the delay — construction crews favoring the thicker wallets of wealthier investment-backed restaurants (we won’t name names). Is this where San Francisco dining is going? Can independent restaurants be helped?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This part of Fillmore Street was historically filled with black-owned shops and restaurants, along with the jazz clubs that made this the Fillmore Jazz District. Except, there are basically no jazz clubs or black-owned businesses here anymore. One of the last ones of the corridor, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Fillmore-singing-blues-over-jazz-district-6747312.php?utm_campaign=sfgate&utm_source=article&utm_medium=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.sfgate.com%252Finsidescoop%252Farticle%252FThe-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php%253Ft%253D157de05c32\">Black Bark BBQ\u003c/a>, had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/insidescoop/article/The-Fillmore-s-Black-Bark-has-closed-as-it-12486002.php?t=157de05c32\">relocate\u003c/a>. The San Francisco Chronicle’s Jonathan Kauffman just wrote an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/Fernay-McPherson-and-the-movement-that-found-12907544.php\">excellent profile about this neighborhood\u003c/a> and this sad realization for the Fillmore’s demographics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s an unfortunate change for the neighborhood, albeit one that is very reflective of Divisadero just up the hill. Both are getting increasingly gentrified like their glossy nearby peers of Hayes Valley and Fillmore in Lower Pacific Heights. Yes, this is San Francisco 2018 and we could talk all day about gentrification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, this is a story about how the newer food businesses on Fillmore all started as small business concepts and have grown into thriving projects that should be celebrated. Wise Sons, Boba Guys and State Bird Provisions all weren’t glitzy or deep money-backed when they first opened. \u003ca href=\"http://www.fatangelsf.com/\">Fat Angel\u003c/a> was the very first of Hi Neighbor’s restaurants and still isn’t very well-known beyond its regulars. Avery’s chef-partner Rodney Wages went through the ringer at many top kitchens in order to start a pop-up that morphed into \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>. These restaurateurs worked hard to become names known citywide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shelton and Michael are no different — remember that 100 days we mentioned? They sure know this industry all too well. On the side, the two have even been offering doughnut and pasta making classes with \u003ca href=\"https://www.cozymeal.com/chefs/788/chef-ryan\">Cozymeal\u003c/a> not just because it’s fun but also to make money. (Full disclosure: this writer took a pasta making class from Shelton and is now at least not awful at the difficult art). They also do high-volume catering and various other projects because, hey, when your business isn’t making money in this pricey city, how do you make money?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, both have no shortage of talent, imagination or desire to fulfill their hopes. Shelton even has a tattoo of Merchant Roots’ 1365 address in roman numerals (MCCCLXV) and a tattoo of a quail, the California state bird. The chef certainly really cares about this project and where this project calls home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128489\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128489\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6416-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton displays his quail tattoo. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Restaurateurs and entrepreneurs like Shelton and Michael champion two universally beloved things in this city, whether you’re a techie millennial or lived here 55 years: bighearted small businesses that really focus on doing a few things and doing them extremely well; and clean, high quality food. A few modern tastes find their way into Merchant Roots (kale!) but there’s also a circa 1900 era vintage sausage stuffer and a small town, everybody is welcome vibe. It’s delicious, upbeat and family-friendly — heck, even dogs will appreciate the upcoming unveiling of peanut butter raviolis for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, Shelton and Michael are doing what they want to do and luckily for diners, they do it really, really well. You can’t help but root for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-128534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1091-new1-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef Ryan Shelton and Sous Chef David Hamilton-Kidd making pasta. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.merchantroots.com/\">\u003cstrong>Merchant Roots\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Merchant+Roots/@37.7821316,-122.4348981,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580bbd4c63a77:0xf77eb4da52eaec2!8m2!3d37.7821274!4d-122.4327041\">1365 Fillmore St.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94115\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/merchantroots/?hl=en\">@merchantroots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook:\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/merchantroots/\"> Merchant Roots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MerchantRoots\">@MerchantRoots\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Tuesday-Saturday, 9am-5pm; The Table will serve dinner Thursday-Saturday\u003cbr>\nPrice: The Shop: $-$$; The Table: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore","authors":["byline_bayareabites_128414"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_16170","bayareabites_9856"],"featImg":"bayareabites_128440","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_128249":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_128249","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"128249","score":null,"sort":[1527009839000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"birdsong-provides-a-fine-dining-high-note-for-soma","title":"Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa","publishDate":1527009839,"format":"standard","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the structure of a great song, there are all sorts of compelling supporting components that let the journey ebb and flow then crescendo towards the all-important main chorus at SoMa’s high-end seasonal California meets Pacific Northwest newcomer, Birdsong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu (the lyrics) is somewhat inspired by our neighbors to the north along the Pacific Coast, somewhat inspired by our local terroir, and heavily inspired by the chef’s highly impressive World’s 50 Best and Michelin star-filled fine dining background.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg\" alt=\"The menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is springing for a duel tasting menu and à la carte format (the rhythm) that can be pulled off, but sure is daunting for the kitchen to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The breathtakingly gorgeous space (the background harmonies) could be a living room set-up for a cover spread in a chic magazine like Monocle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Birdsong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128359\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Birdsong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128326\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128326\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Mid-Market/SoMa border location at this particular place and time (the tempo) in San Francisco is pretty much front and center for everything that is being debated by this year’s mayoral candidates, and has a history of being unfriendly to friendly restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all of these storylines build towards the chorus — the heart of why Birdsong has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in the city for months and is here for diners to venture to Mission Street to experience firsthand. No, Birdsong isn’t about tail-to-beak whole poultry cooking, a Grateful Dead song, a mid-20th century British novel, or somebody’s deep involvement with the Audubon Society. Birdsong is a pleasant reference to the beauty of nature and how birds help ecosystems grow and stay healthy, setting a mentality for diners as they step into a restaurant that wants to slow down cooking and bring it back to its roaring fire and pristine ingredients past. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That background sets the stage for the true reason (the chorus) of why Birdsong is a pivotal restaurant for the Bay Area and national restaurant watchers to know about: it’s the solo debut of one of the (or possibly THE) most under-the-radar, ready for the bright lights chefs in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chances are you don’t know Chris Bleidorn. But it’s very likely you know a lot of the stops on his resume. Alinea. Benu. Saison. Atelier Crenn. Johnson and Wales. This isn’t meant to be a LinkedIn entry for the chef but it’s vital to mention this because Bleidorn clearly has the background to make an impact straight out of the gates with Birdsong. It’s the culinary equivalent of a B.A. at Stanford, a Rhodes Scholar at Oxford and a Ph.D from Harvard. He’s ready for prime time and the Bay Area’s dining scene is ready for him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn is opening with a preview eight-course, $135 tasting menu. Soon, that will expand to 12-13 courses for $168 plus à la carte options. The à la carte dishes will be configured differently and there will be little to no overlap (unlike at another newcomer trying the same thing, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Sorrel\u003c/a>). As Bleidorn told us, tasting menu dishes are smaller and need to be “impactful” and “the first sip [or] the first bite needs to resonate.” À la carte dishes have to be stretched out more and not go for an immediate “punch.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we’ll have to wait a little longer to find out what those à la carte dishes look like. For now, though, we definitely have a good sense of his cooking style that shows subtle influences from his prior stints at those aforementioned influential kitchens but really has its own distinct, gentle voice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn currently leads off with a series of snacks that definitely give that impactful punch in one-to-two bites. First comes a ceviche-like edible still-life of tiny Pacific scallop from Washington state with its own salted liver, nestled into a glass dish with apricot vinegar, Douglas fir oil and ice plant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/1GnkB7ecwS4\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128352\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128352\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then diners move onto what is sure to be a menu staple for it elegantly abstract take on a pub grub classic: fish and chips. There are no mushy peas here nor is there greasy batter-fried fish. Instead, imagine if Jiro the celebrated Tokyo sushi chef did a pop-up in Dublin. A glistening slab of halibut is served atop a puffy pomme soufflé (similar to the gol guppa street snacks of India) with tartar sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128350\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish & chips\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128350\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish & chips \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>More and more tasting menu destinations are becoming fans of taking a common central ingredient and presenting several diminutive bites that show that ingredient in completely different versions. Matthew Kammerer, another former Saison chef and now Executive Chef at the spectacular Harbor House Inn in Elk (Mendocino County) takes this to another level by providing preview canapés made of the meal’s featured produce before diners even officially start the meal. Bleidorn doesn’t quite go that far but he does serve a trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128347\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128347\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cured trout is warmed and smoked in cedar, and hidden in a cedar package for serving at the table with a Douglas fir branch flourish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128349\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128349\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trout roe comes as a sandwich with a mayonnaise-like creation accented by sour grasses and horseradish. What’s the bread for this two-bite spicy-briny flavor rush? You got it — crispy trout skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/TGEwhg1I6-c\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128332\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128332\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trout treats trio concludes with an ensemble of belly meat scraped off the bones, a custard then made from the dried trout bones, and salted mustard leaves and stems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - custard\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128334\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - custard \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is that enough trout for you? We haven’t seen the eyes, tail or cheeks used yet, but we’re not doubting that those are on the horizon to fully utilize the fish as is so central to Birdsong’s mission. Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges (previously at Quince and Atelier Crenn) showed us how to cut into one of the large trout they had just received and admitted that they’re still figuring out a way to use the fish’s guts. Hey, maybe it will turn out to be a delicacy and be an aquatic version of sweetbreads?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128342\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The water motif continues in the next course with Washington state geoduck clams joined by lardo, celery and smoked potatoes in a bowl, then tied together by a complex clam and buttermilk whey broth poured tableside. If this sounds like an abstract San Juan Islands clam chowder, you’re not imagining things. Bleidorn is from Hingham, Massachusetts (along the Atlantic between Boston and Plymouth) and this dish is obviously a nod to his home state. And, if you’re wondering, yes he is still a passionate fan of the Red Sox and Patriots — Boston teams and a love of chowdah never leave New England natives even when they’re on the West Coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128310\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg\" alt=\"Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128310\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cedar, halibut, geoduck clams...are you sensing a theme? It probably doesn’t occur to you at first because Bleidorn doesn’t hit diners over the head with a relentless focus on the Alaska-Oregon-Washington-British Columbia theme. Much of the pre-opening press has centered on Birdsong being a “Pacific Northwest” restaurant, which is semi-correct and semi-incorrect. The Bay Area has only seen one Pacific Northwest cuisine in recent memory, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/eatup/article/Cafe-Eugene-puts-Pacific-Northwest-on-the-menu-7257818.php\">Café Eugene\u003c/a> in Albany. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It lasted two years and never really found its stride being “Pacific Northwest” focused. Though we see New England, Southern, Texan and New York-inspired restaurants open all the time, Bay Area diners seemed puzzled by a Pacific Northwest concept in the East Bay — despite the fact that some of the best restaurants and raw ingredients in the country can be found in Seattle, Portland, Oregon, and across that rain and forest-filled region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn didn’t choose the Pacific Northwest for the sake of being different or because he absolutely loves watching “Portlandia” or climbing Mount Rainier. He didn’t do a lot of on-the-ground research other than a few days of tasting around Alaska. To him, the region is “The New England of the West Coast” in terms of an unwavering respect for seasonal ingredients (we’re pretty sure that’s the definition of Californian cuisine, right?) and a magnificent terrain composed of breathtaking mountains, streams, oceans and forests. After all, both regions have a Portland. We could go on all day about geoduck clams and Ipswich clams; Bend and Sugarloaf; Seahawks and Patriots; Mount Rainier and Mount Washington; Alaskan halibut and Maine lobster; and whether these comparisons are truly similar or different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Bleindorn really means by their similarity, beyond being northern corners of the country, is that both have a strong sense of place and they do indeed have a lot of shared natural traits. Both areas can be considered the New World equivalent of Scandinavia — austere in winter, magnificent in summer, but always home to a dramatic natural ecosystem that leans heavily towards the sea and mist-filled forests. So, Wisconsin doesn’t fit here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shouldn’t feel compelled to put strict labels on any talented chef’s cuisine but the best way to think of what Bleidorn is doing is “West Coast” because we are in California, after all, and something like “rustic, nature-minded and advanced technique” because you can see the high-level methods that Alinea and Benu might incorporate into plates but there’s also a low and slow, whole animal and produce mindset that is a trend stemming from a range of concepts from Chez Panisse to Texas BBQ to New England clambakes. Outside of Saison and now, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, we haven’t seen much of that rugged “rustic and nature-minded” mentality creep into the intricate tasting menu sphere. Add Birdsong to that burgeoning group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong uses big “once upon a time” buzzwords like “ancient cooking” and “heritage cooking” to describe this not very describable cuisine. Those terms make Birdsong sound like the restaurant is cooking wooly mammoth over driftwood with a backdrop of enormous glaciers. The most apt description comes from a quote by nature writer Michael Frome that Bleidorn likes to refer to: “Each succeeding generation accepts less and less of the real thing because it has no way of understanding what has been lost.” This is true in the history of food and across the board for society whether you want to rail about dating apps, smart phones, Teslas, chain stores, and pretty much everything Silicon Valley is trying to disrupt in every cultural space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bleidorn, the key is “to slow down the watered down approach” that has crept into the kitchen and much of life. But, he’ll also point out that it’s not the fault of chefs — this is how society evolves. It’s just that evolution can strip away the in-depth flavor of fantastic ingredients provided without touch by nature centuries ago. He’s correct about that. It’s virtually impossible to recapture that but it’s possible to take away some of that evolution and gimmicky technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/wtyul09ulfw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look at the vast, shimmering open kitchen (too open in Bleidorn’s opinion but that can’t be changed with the space’s design) of Birdsong and diners will see that this dining experience really is all about a pristine, transparent style of cooking that keeps modernism outside on Mission Street. The Chef-Partner and his determined crew of chefs strive for a powerful tasting menu without relying on the tech-enhanced wow factor of foams, gels and basically anything that El Bulli or Nathan Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine would preach. There is the same punch after punch across the tasting menu but in a more soft-spoken, birds chirping manner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffing morel mushrooms\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128308\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffing morel mushrooms \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next dish incorporates a Pacific Northwest staple, morel mushrooms, and stuffs them with spring lamb, then teams the morels with a sauce made of alliums and charcoal that is partially “ancient” campfire and partially Soul Cycle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg\" alt=\"Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128344\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn’s final savory course in the preview menu centers on wild boar two-ways. One comes with grilled brassicas, grains, dried fruit and cultured broth. The other is BBQ-inspired with elderberries (another very Pacific Northwest ingredient), ramps and pine needle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As much as we’ve harped on the streams and oceans influencing Birdsong — if you just looked at the downstairs meat locker next to the restaurant’s two below ground private dining rooms, you would think that this is a carnivore’s paradise à la Alfred’s or House of Prime Rib. Bleidorn is fanatical about sourcing whole, grass-fed animals and actually prefers older, leaner ones — the opposite of most chefs. He could talk all day about the buffalo, lamb, mutton and duck hanging in the chilly room. It’s a fascinating philosophy for a meat program and equally interesting to look at. Let’s just say you know a restaurant cares about its glassed-in meat room when there are custom teal tiles in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dessert presently is caramelized bread custard with jasmine and toasted milk. Make sure to keep an eye on this finale and the desserts in the future at Birdsong because Bleidorn wasn’t just a sous chef star on the savory side. Indeed, after graduating from Johnson and Whales, the esteemed culinary institution in Rhode Island, he spent five years as a sous chef at Nine-Ten in La Jolla (a rare example of a great restaurant in a seaside resort in a touristy town) and served as a chef de partie for the vaunted Alinea in Chicago. But then from 2010-2013, Bleidorn was the pastry chef for Corey Lee at Benu. Afterwards, he swapped pastries for savory again as Atelier Crenn’s Chef de Cuisine and then as a chef at Saison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was at Benu where Bleidorn met Aarti Shetty, a UC Berkeley Haas School of Business graduate and former healthcare industry analyst who pulled a career 180 and shifted gears to become Director of Operations for Corey Lee’s restaurants (Benu, In Situ, Monsieur Benjamin). She is a Partner for Birdsong...and also Bleidorn’s life partner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The management team also includes Bianca Ishikawa (Gary Danko) as Service Manager and Freddy Foot (also from Gary Danko) as Head Sommelier. While the food definitely has a little-to-medium amount of the Pacific Northwest theme going on, the region’s voice is really emphasized by Foot’s beverage list. Oregon’s highly regarded Crux and Pelican breweries are part of the beers on tap. Several Willamette Valley, Oregon wineries (Stoller, J Christopher, etc…) and Columbia Valley, Washington labels (Januik, Gramercy) appear on the by-the-glass and bottle lists. Without question, this is the most Oregon-Washington wine friendly program in the city, but that’s also not saying much because there really isn’t any competition. Take this as a great opportunity to study a completely different terroir and style of wine than you’ll find in California. Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, are nothing like their counterparts in Sonoma and Napa respectively. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong’s design by the Los Angeles and Washington D.C.-based SAINT firm is meant to feel homey and does indeed have the sought-after “hygge” (a snug, comforting feeling) feel of Scandinavia. However, it also is one heck of an elaborate, fairy tale living room and kitchen, just like how Bar Crenn is supposedly “a living room” but not like any real living room you’ve been to in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128325\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong upstairs interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128325\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong upstairs interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With tall ceilings and lots of windows, the space has a free, airy feel and no shortage of sunlight. A stack of wood by the front window allows additional natural light in but blocks out the “scenery” of Mission Street outside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg\" alt=\"The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As you’d expect in a restaurant that looks towards the forest, wood plays a huge part everywhere. Table tops are made of ash and floors come courtesy of Douglas firs. A 10-seat chef’s counter has jagged ends to its expansive wooden block and exposed bark that make the table look as if wind and rain shaped it. Not only is it the most visually intriguing table in the house, it’s also the best seat in the house, looking straight into the kitchen like you might at a sushi bar. That open kitchen and its hearth are indeed the room’s focal point, designed by industry rock star Alec Bauer, who is also responsible for many of San Francisco’s most gorgeous kitchens like State Bird Provisions and Quince. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128316\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other seating is along a brick-exposed wall with tables placed between two long, tufted turquoise couches and stylish leather seats. All in all, the dining room can seat 34 guests. The street level space is book-ended by a pair of gorgeous design components — a salon-like sitting area by the telephone booth-evoking glass-enclosed entrance and a windy staircase to the private dining areas (and the meat) in the rear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128305\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg\" alt=\"Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128305\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128301\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128301\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128365\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"The downstairs kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128365\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The downstairs kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s also give a big shout out to the details in the design, like the handsome plateware that is the result of a collaboration between Bleidorn and a Korean ceramics maker who specializes in ancient pottery. The plates and glassware are seriously beautiful creations. Also, don’t miss the bubble lamps dangling from the ceiling that provide diners with limited lighting and elevate the romance factor significantly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg\" alt=\"Glassware on display at Birdsong.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glassware on display at Birdsong. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, let’s talk about “the tempo” in this song. Things are indeed fast and furious in this neighborhood and the whole topic of SoMa/Mid-Market restaurants is definitely the elephant in the room. Birdsong’s predecessor in the space was AQ, a universally applauded casual yet high-end restaurant that closed unexpectedly at the beginning of 2017. AQ was a pretty profound concept, changing its menu and décor in tune with the changing seasons quarterly. It really took “seasonal cooking” more seriously than practically any other restaurant in the country. Seasons were a literal theme. It worked in the early years and was a sign that things were changing in a neighborhood better known for homeless and drugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you spend much time in San Francisco, you’re aware how clearly that latter duo hasn’t changed much, even if politicians want you to think they have. Less than two years ago, AQ’s owners had three restaurants in this area (Fenix was two doors away from AQ and Bon Marché was in the Twitter Building). All three closed despite positive critical responses and general public reviews. Other promising restaurants like Oro, Volta and Cadence (this writer liked it, at least) closed shortly after opening during the same 2015-2016 time frame. AQ pointed to rising costs and customers unwilling to pay them as the reason the restaurant closed. It’s hard to imagine the neighborhood didn’t play a part in at least some, if not all of these closures. Even former Mayor Willie Brown wrote about how a homeless person harassed him outside AQ prior to a dinner there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, alas, times change. The building boom in this area is hard not to notice. Birdsong has some great daytime next door neighbors with The Board (sandwiches/breakfast) and Saint Frank Coffee. Things are looking up in the neighborhood and Birdsong’s arrival will hopefully continue this new trend of optimism. You can hear the birds chirping on Mission Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.birdsongsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>Birdsong\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Birdsong/@37.7793932,-122.4125847,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580837c6f0b4f:0x8b8b97cdd11ec11c!8m2!3d37.779389!4d-122.410396\">1085 Mission Street\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 369-9161\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5pm-8:30pm; Friday-Saturday, 5pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Birdsong-SF-367695363752308/\">Birdsong\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/birdsong_sf/?hl=en\">@Birdsong_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530251505,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":3630},"headData":{"title":"Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa | KQED","description":"Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa","datePublished":"2018-05-22T17:23:59.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T05:51:45.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"128249 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=128249","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/22/birdsong-provides-a-fine-dining-high-note-for-soma/","disqusTitle":"Birdsong Provides a Fine Dining High Note for SoMa","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/128249/birdsong-provides-a-fine-dining-high-note-for-soma","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Husband-and-wife couple Chris Bleidorn and Aarti Shetty make their ambitious debut as restaurant owners — with hints of the serene Pacific Northwest — in a stunning SoMa dining room at Birdsong\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the structure of a great song, there are all sorts of compelling supporting components that let the journey ebb and flow then crescendo towards the all-important main chorus at SoMa’s high-end seasonal California meets Pacific Northwest newcomer, Birdsong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu (the lyrics) is somewhat inspired by our neighbors to the north along the Pacific Coast, somewhat inspired by our local terroir, and heavily inspired by the chef’s highly impressive World’s 50 Best and Michelin star-filled fine dining background.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg\" alt=\"The menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128339\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_1025-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is springing for a duel tasting menu and à la carte format (the rhythm) that can be pulled off, but sure is daunting for the kitchen to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The breathtakingly gorgeous space (the background harmonies) could be a living room set-up for a cover spread in a chic magazine like Monocle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128359\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entryway to Birdsong\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128359\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6144-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entryway to Birdsong \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128326\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128326\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6197-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong interior space with open kitchen and counter areas \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Mid-Market/SoMa border location at this particular place and time (the tempo) in San Francisco is pretty much front and center for everything that is being debated by this year’s mayoral candidates, and has a history of being unfriendly to friendly restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all of these storylines build towards the chorus — the heart of why Birdsong has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in the city for months and is here for diners to venture to Mission Street to experience firsthand. No, Birdsong isn’t about tail-to-beak whole poultry cooking, a Grateful Dead song, a mid-20th century British novel, or somebody’s deep involvement with the Audubon Society. Birdsong is a pleasant reference to the beauty of nature and how birds help ecosystems grow and stay healthy, setting a mentality for diners as they step into a restaurant that wants to slow down cooking and bring it back to its roaring fire and pristine ingredients past. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That background sets the stage for the true reason (the chorus) of why Birdsong is a pivotal restaurant for the Bay Area and national restaurant watchers to know about: it’s the solo debut of one of the (or possibly THE) most under-the-radar, ready for the bright lights chefs in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128338\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0979-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn in the downstairs meat locker. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chances are you don’t know Chris Bleidorn. But it’s very likely you know a lot of the stops on his resume. Alinea. Benu. Saison. Atelier Crenn. Johnson and Wales. This isn’t meant to be a LinkedIn entry for the chef but it’s vital to mention this because Bleidorn clearly has the background to make an impact straight out of the gates with Birdsong. It’s the culinary equivalent of a B.A. at Stanford, a Rhodes Scholar at Oxford and a Ph.D from Harvard. He’s ready for prime time and the Bay Area’s dining scene is ready for him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn is opening with a preview eight-course, $135 tasting menu. Soon, that will expand to 12-13 courses for $168 plus à la carte options. The à la carte dishes will be configured differently and there will be little to no overlap (unlike at another newcomer trying the same thing, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Sorrel\u003c/a>). As Bleidorn told us, tasting menu dishes are smaller and need to be “impactful” and “the first sip [or] the first bite needs to resonate.” À la carte dishes have to be stretched out more and not go for an immediate “punch.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we’ll have to wait a little longer to find out what those à la carte dishes look like. For now, though, we definitely have a good sense of his cooking style that shows subtle influences from his prior stints at those aforementioned influential kitchens but really has its own distinct, gentle voice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn currently leads off with a series of snacks that definitely give that impactful punch in one-to-two bites. First comes a ceviche-like edible still-life of tiny Pacific scallop from Washington state with its own salted liver, nestled into a glass dish with apricot vinegar, Douglas fir oil and ice plant.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/1GnkB7ecwS4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/1GnkB7ecwS4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128352\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128352\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0779-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pacific scallops, salted liver, apricot vinegar, ice plant \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then diners move onto what is sure to be a menu staple for it elegantly abstract take on a pub grub classic: fish and chips. There are no mushy peas here nor is there greasy batter-fried fish. Instead, imagine if Jiro the celebrated Tokyo sushi chef did a pop-up in Dublin. A glistening slab of halibut is served atop a puffy pomme soufflé (similar to the gol guppa street snacks of India) with tartar sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128350\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish & chips\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128350\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0801-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish & chips \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>More and more tasting menu destinations are becoming fans of taking a common central ingredient and presenting several diminutive bites that show that ingredient in completely different versions. Matthew Kammerer, another former Saison chef and now Executive Chef at the spectacular Harbor House Inn in Elk (Mendocino County) takes this to another level by providing preview canapés made of the meal’s featured produce before diners even officially start the meal. Bleidorn doesn’t quite go that far but he does serve a trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128347\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg\" alt=\"A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128347\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0861-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trio of creek-raised trout tastes served simultaneously. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cured trout is warmed and smoked in cedar, and hidden in a cedar package for serving at the table with a Douglas fir branch flourish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128349\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128349\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0817-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - cured, smoked, and warmed in cedar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trout roe comes as a sandwich with a mayonnaise-like creation accented by sour grasses and horseradish. What’s the bread for this two-bite spicy-briny flavor rush? You got it — crispy trout skin.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/TGEwhg1I6-c'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/TGEwhg1I6-c'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128332\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - sandwich\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128332\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0807-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - sandwich \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The trout treats trio concludes with an ensemble of belly meat scraped off the bones, a custard then made from the dried trout bones, and salted mustard leaves and stems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg\" alt=\"Creek raised trout - custard\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128334\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0843-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creek raised trout - custard \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Is that enough trout for you? We haven’t seen the eyes, tail or cheeks used yet, but we’re not doubting that those are on the horizon to fully utilize the fish as is so central to Birdsong’s mission. Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges (previously at Quince and Atelier Crenn) showed us how to cut into one of the large trout they had just received and admitted that they’re still figuring out a way to use the fish’s guts. Hey, maybe it will turn out to be a delicacy and be an aquatic version of sweetbreads?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128342\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0988-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef de cuisine Brian Limoges prepping a large trout \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The water motif continues in the next course with Washington state geoduck clams joined by lardo, celery and smoked potatoes in a bowl, then tied together by a complex clam and buttermilk whey broth poured tableside. If this sounds like an abstract San Juan Islands clam chowder, you’re not imagining things. Bleidorn is from Hingham, Massachusetts (along the Atlantic between Boston and Plymouth) and this dish is obviously a nod to his home state. And, if you’re wondering, yes he is still a passionate fan of the Red Sox and Patriots — Boston teams and a love of chowdah never leave New England natives even when they’re on the West Coast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128310\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg\" alt=\"Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128310\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6028-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giant clam, buttermilk whey, pork fat \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cedar, halibut, geoduck clams...are you sensing a theme? It probably doesn’t occur to you at first because Bleidorn doesn’t hit diners over the head with a relentless focus on the Alaska-Oregon-Washington-British Columbia theme. Much of the pre-opening press has centered on Birdsong being a “Pacific Northwest” restaurant, which is semi-correct and semi-incorrect. The Bay Area has only seen one Pacific Northwest cuisine in recent memory, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/eatup/article/Cafe-Eugene-puts-Pacific-Northwest-on-the-menu-7257818.php\">Café Eugene\u003c/a> in Albany. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It lasted two years and never really found its stride being “Pacific Northwest” focused. Though we see New England, Southern, Texan and New York-inspired restaurants open all the time, Bay Area diners seemed puzzled by a Pacific Northwest concept in the East Bay — despite the fact that some of the best restaurants and raw ingredients in the country can be found in Seattle, Portland, Oregon, and across that rain and forest-filled region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn didn’t choose the Pacific Northwest for the sake of being different or because he absolutely loves watching “Portlandia” or climbing Mount Rainier. He didn’t do a lot of on-the-ground research other than a few days of tasting around Alaska. To him, the region is “The New England of the West Coast” in terms of an unwavering respect for seasonal ingredients (we’re pretty sure that’s the definition of Californian cuisine, right?) and a magnificent terrain composed of breathtaking mountains, streams, oceans and forests. After all, both regions have a Portland. We could go on all day about geoduck clams and Ipswich clams; Bend and Sugarloaf; Seahawks and Patriots; Mount Rainier and Mount Washington; Alaskan halibut and Maine lobster; and whether these comparisons are truly similar or different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Bleindorn really means by their similarity, beyond being northern corners of the country, is that both have a strong sense of place and they do indeed have a lot of shared natural traits. Both areas can be considered the New World equivalent of Scandinavia — austere in winter, magnificent in summer, but always home to a dramatic natural ecosystem that leans heavily towards the sea and mist-filled forests. So, Wisconsin doesn’t fit here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We shouldn’t feel compelled to put strict labels on any talented chef’s cuisine but the best way to think of what Bleidorn is doing is “West Coast” because we are in California, after all, and something like “rustic, nature-minded and advanced technique” because you can see the high-level methods that Alinea and Benu might incorporate into plates but there’s also a low and slow, whole animal and produce mindset that is a trend stemming from a range of concepts from Chez Panisse to Texas BBQ to New England clambakes. Outside of Saison and now, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, we haven’t seen much of that rugged “rustic and nature-minded” mentality creep into the intricate tasting menu sphere. Add Birdsong to that burgeoning group.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong uses big “once upon a time” buzzwords like “ancient cooking” and “heritage cooking” to describe this not very describable cuisine. Those terms make Birdsong sound like the restaurant is cooking wooly mammoth over driftwood with a backdrop of enormous glaciers. The most apt description comes from a quote by nature writer Michael Frome that Bleidorn likes to refer to: “Each succeeding generation accepts less and less of the real thing because it has no way of understanding what has been lost.” This is true in the history of food and across the board for society whether you want to rail about dating apps, smart phones, Teslas, chain stores, and pretty much everything Silicon Valley is trying to disrupt in every cultural space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bleidorn, the key is “to slow down the watered down approach” that has crept into the kitchen and much of life. But, he’ll also point out that it’s not the fault of chefs — this is how society evolves. It’s just that evolution can strip away the in-depth flavor of fantastic ingredients provided without touch by nature centuries ago. He’s correct about that. It’s virtually impossible to recapture that but it’s possible to take away some of that evolution and gimmicky technology.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/wtyul09ulfw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/wtyul09ulfw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Look at the vast, shimmering open kitchen (too open in Bleidorn’s opinion but that can’t be changed with the space’s design) of Birdsong and diners will see that this dining experience really is all about a pristine, transparent style of cooking that keeps modernism outside on Mission Street. The Chef-Partner and his determined crew of chefs strive for a powerful tasting menu without relying on the tech-enhanced wow factor of foams, gels and basically anything that El Bulli or Nathan Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine would preach. There is the same punch after punch across the tasting menu but in a more soft-spoken, birds chirping manner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128308\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffing morel mushrooms\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128308\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6002-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuffing morel mushrooms \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next dish incorporates a Pacific Northwest staple, morel mushrooms, and stuffs them with spring lamb, then teams the morels with a sauce made of alliums and charcoal that is partially “ancient” campfire and partially Soul Cycle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg\" alt=\"Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128344\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0933-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Morel mushroom, Sonoma lamb, green almonds, allium charcoal sauce \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bleidorn’s final savory course in the preview menu centers on wild boar two-ways. One comes with grilled brassicas, grains, dried fruit and cultured broth. The other is BBQ-inspired with elderberries (another very Pacific Northwest ingredient), ramps and pine needle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As much as we’ve harped on the streams and oceans influencing Birdsong — if you just looked at the downstairs meat locker next to the restaurant’s two below ground private dining rooms, you would think that this is a carnivore’s paradise à la Alfred’s or House of Prime Rib. Bleidorn is fanatical about sourcing whole, grass-fed animals and actually prefers older, leaner ones — the opposite of most chefs. He could talk all day about the buffalo, lamb, mutton and duck hanging in the chilly room. It’s a fascinating philosophy for a meat program and equally interesting to look at. Let’s just say you know a restaurant cares about its glassed-in meat room when there are custom teal tiles in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128398\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128398\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0766-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Chris Bleidorn talks about the various cuts of meat in the glassed-in meat cooler. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dessert presently is caramelized bread custard with jasmine and toasted milk. Make sure to keep an eye on this finale and the desserts in the future at Birdsong because Bleidorn wasn’t just a sous chef star on the savory side. Indeed, after graduating from Johnson and Whales, the esteemed culinary institution in Rhode Island, he spent five years as a sous chef at Nine-Ten in La Jolla (a rare example of a great restaurant in a seaside resort in a touristy town) and served as a chef de partie for the vaunted Alinea in Chicago. But then from 2010-2013, Bleidorn was the pastry chef for Corey Lee at Benu. Afterwards, he swapped pastries for savory again as Atelier Crenn’s Chef de Cuisine and then as a chef at Saison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was at Benu where Bleidorn met Aarti Shetty, a UC Berkeley Haas School of Business graduate and former healthcare industry analyst who pulled a career 180 and shifted gears to become Director of Operations for Corey Lee’s restaurants (Benu, In Situ, Monsieur Benjamin). She is a Partner for Birdsong...and also Bleidorn’s life partner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The management team also includes Bianca Ishikawa (Gary Danko) as Service Manager and Freddy Foot (also from Gary Danko) as Head Sommelier. While the food definitely has a little-to-medium amount of the Pacific Northwest theme going on, the region’s voice is really emphasized by Foot’s beverage list. Oregon’s highly regarded Crux and Pelican breweries are part of the beers on tap. Several Willamette Valley, Oregon wineries (Stoller, J Christopher, etc…) and Columbia Valley, Washington labels (Januik, Gramercy) appear on the by-the-glass and bottle lists. Without question, this is the most Oregon-Washington wine friendly program in the city, but that’s also not saying much because there really isn’t any competition. Take this as a great opportunity to study a completely different terroir and style of wine than you’ll find in California. Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and Washington Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, are nothing like their counterparts in Sonoma and Napa respectively. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Birdsong’s design by the Los Angeles and Washington D.C.-based SAINT firm is meant to feel homey and does indeed have the sought-after “hygge” (a snug, comforting feeling) feel of Scandinavia. However, it also is one heck of an elaborate, fairy tale living room and kitchen, just like how Bar Crenn is supposedly “a living room” but not like any real living room you’ve been to in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128325\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong upstairs interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128325\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6196-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong upstairs interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With tall ceilings and lots of windows, the space has a free, airy feel and no shortage of sunlight. A stack of wood by the front window allows additional natural light in but blocks out the “scenery” of Mission Street outside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg\" alt=\"The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5717-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The front area of Birdsong with display of glassware \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As you’d expect in a restaurant that looks towards the forest, wood plays a huge part everywhere. Table tops are made of ash and floors come courtesy of Douglas firs. A 10-seat chef’s counter has jagged ends to its expansive wooden block and exposed bark that make the table look as if wind and rain shaped it. Not only is it the most visually intriguing table in the house, it’s also the best seat in the house, looking straight into the kitchen like you might at a sushi bar. That open kitchen and its hearth are indeed the room’s focal point, designed by industry rock star Alec Bauer, who is also responsible for many of San Francisco’s most gorgeous kitchens like State Bird Provisions and Quince. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128316\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6106-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The other seating is along a brick-exposed wall with tables placed between two long, tufted turquoise couches and stylish leather seats. All in all, the dining room can seat 34 guests. The street level space is book-ended by a pair of gorgeous design components — a salon-like sitting area by the telephone booth-evoking glass-enclosed entrance and a windy staircase to the private dining areas (and the meat) in the rear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128305\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg\" alt=\"Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128305\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5954-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Staircase to downstairs dining area, exposed meat cooler and kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128301\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg\" alt=\"Downstairs dining area\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128301\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5906-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Downstairs dining area \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128365\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"The downstairs kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128365\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_5919-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The downstairs kitchen \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s also give a big shout out to the details in the design, like the handsome plateware that is the result of a collaboration between Bleidorn and a Korean ceramics maker who specializes in ancient pottery. The plates and glassware are seriously beautiful creations. Also, don’t miss the bubble lamps dangling from the ceiling that provide diners with limited lighting and elevate the romance factor significantly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg\" alt=\"Glassware on display at Birdsong.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128409\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_6093-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Glassware on display at Birdsong. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Finally, let’s talk about “the tempo” in this song. Things are indeed fast and furious in this neighborhood and the whole topic of SoMa/Mid-Market restaurants is definitely the elephant in the room. Birdsong’s predecessor in the space was AQ, a universally applauded casual yet high-end restaurant that closed unexpectedly at the beginning of 2017. AQ was a pretty profound concept, changing its menu and décor in tune with the changing seasons quarterly. It really took “seasonal cooking” more seriously than practically any other restaurant in the country. Seasons were a literal theme. It worked in the early years and was a sign that things were changing in a neighborhood better known for homeless and drugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you spend much time in San Francisco, you’re aware how clearly that latter duo hasn’t changed much, even if politicians want you to think they have. Less than two years ago, AQ’s owners had three restaurants in this area (Fenix was two doors away from AQ and Bon Marché was in the Twitter Building). All three closed despite positive critical responses and general public reviews. Other promising restaurants like Oro, Volta and Cadence (this writer liked it, at least) closed shortly after opening during the same 2015-2016 time frame. AQ pointed to rising costs and customers unwilling to pay them as the reason the restaurant closed. It’s hard to imagine the neighborhood didn’t play a part in at least some, if not all of these closures. Even former Mayor Willie Brown wrote about how a homeless person harassed him outside AQ prior to a dinner there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, alas, times change. The building boom in this area is hard not to notice. Birdsong has some great daytime next door neighbors with The Board (sandwiches/breakfast) and Saint Frank Coffee. Things are looking up in the neighborhood and Birdsong’s arrival will hopefully continue this new trend of optimism. You can hear the birds chirping on Mission Street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg\" alt=\"Birdsong exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0728-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Birdsong exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.birdsongsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>Birdsong\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Birdsong/@37.7793932,-122.4125847,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580837c6f0b4f:0x8b8b97cdd11ec11c!8m2!3d37.779389!4d-122.410396\">1085 Mission Street\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 369-9161\u003cbr>\nHours: Dinner Tuesday-Thursday, 5pm-8:30pm; Friday-Saturday, 5pm-9:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/Birdsong-SF-367695363752308/\">Birdsong\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/birdsong_sf/?hl=en\">@Birdsong_sf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$$$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/128249/birdsong-provides-a-fine-dining-high-note-for-soma","authors":["byline_bayareabites_128249"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_16165"],"featImg":"bayareabites_128258","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_127949":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_127949","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"127949","score":null,"sort":[1525878182000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"guide-take-a-deep-dive-into-6-new-bay-area-restaurants","title":"Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants","publishDate":1525878182,"format":"image","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. The intention of these deep dives is to give you a visual and informational taste of what these restaurants have to offer. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126231\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFour years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127503\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127503\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127147\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel's Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAfter four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126992\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">Berkeley Classic Henry’s Scores a Touchdown with New Team’s Menu and Design Changes\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Avery exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avery exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night bar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night bar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an intriguing private event space and weeknights-only bar hybrid experiment in the Dogpatch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530251561,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":407},"headData":{"title":"Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants | KQED","description":"Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants","datePublished":"2018-05-09T15:03:02.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T05:52:41.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"127949 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=127949","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/09/guide-take-a-deep-dive-into-6-new-bay-area-restaurants/","disqusTitle":"Guide: Take a Deep Dive into 6 New Bay Area Restaurants","path":"/bayareabites/127949/guide-take-a-deep-dive-into-6-new-bay-area-restaurants","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Recently, there's been an amazing number of new restaurants springing up in the Bay Area. To celebrate the season we visited five spots in San Francisco and one in Berkeley to explore the food, drink, and story behind these culinary destinations. The intention of these deep dives is to give you a visual and informational taste of what these restaurants have to offer. Enjoy!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126231\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/IMG_1998-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef/Co-Owner David Nayfeld holding Marinara, Anchovy, Arugula Pizze at Che Fico \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126313/che-fico-opens-on-divisadero-cool-figs-wood-fired-chicken-and-hot-pizza\">Che Fico Opens on Divisadero — Cool Figs, Wood-Fired Chicken and Hot Pizza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFour years in the making, a trio of alums from some of Chicago and New York’s most important restaurants arrive on Divisadero with a chic, lofty Italian spot serving rustic pastas, San Francisco-style pizza, and can’t miss cocktails and desserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127503\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg\" alt=\"Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127503\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_3885-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lead Bartender Emilio Salehi showcases The Beehive cocktails (L to R): Thunderbird, Ipanema Gold, Bikini Drifter, Rising Sun \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127454/buzzy-valencia-street-gets-a-swinging-60s-addition-with-the-beehives-debut\">Buzzy Valencia Street Gets a Swinging 60s Addition With The Beehive’s Debut\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nThe Beehive is a groovy trip back to the 60s in the Mission’s former Range location.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg\" alt=\"Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron at Sorrel\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127147\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_8117-2-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sorrel's Striped Bass with artichoke, cauliflower, sultana, wild ramps, saffron \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127083/pop-up-to-permanent-sorrel-hits-prime-time-with-a-full-time-presidio-heights-home\">Pop-up to Permanent — Sorrel Hits Prime Time With a Full-Time Presidio Heights Home\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAfter four years of temporary homes, one of SF’s most beloved pop-ups has found a permanent home for its distinct seasonal California cooking with Italian influences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126992\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg\" alt=\"Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126992\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_2661-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Henry's CheeseBoy on a Tartine sweet potato bun with herbed fries \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126982/berkeley-classic-henrys-scores-a-touchdown-with-new-teams-menu-and-design-changes\">Berkeley Classic Henry’s Scores a Touchdown with New Team’s Menu and Design Changes\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith Chris Kronner’s exciting small plates and irresistible burgers, plus Tartine bread and cocktails from an industry star, Berkeley’s venerable pub is now a major destination beyond tailgates and happy hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Avery exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-126786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/IMG_7732-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avery exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery Opens on Fillmore as SF’s Next Elaborate Tasting Menu Destination\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco’s latest tasting menu experience opens on Fillmore from a talented and artistic alum of Saison, Atelier Crenn and Benu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night bar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127803\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0104-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night bar \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar\">Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWith a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an intriguing private event space and weeknights-only bar hybrid experiment in the Dogpatch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/127949/guide-take-a-deep-dive-into-6-new-bay-area-restaurants","authors":["5014","11338"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_301","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_16101","bayareabites_16087","bayareabites_16113","bayareabites_16140","bayareabites_16122","bayareabites_16124"],"featImg":"bayareabites_127975","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_127643":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_127643","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"127643","score":null,"sort":[1525738323000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar","title":"Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar","publishDate":1525738323,"format":"image","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, a bar being closed on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is like a Financial District coffee shop only being open on weekend evenings or a sports bar strictly serving weekday lunch. It makes you raise your eyebrows as if you’re a judge on “Shark Tank” and begs you to ask the contestant, “Are you trying to lose money with this business plan?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dig a little deeper, however, and you’ll realize that this structure for the Dogpatch Sunday to Wednesday nights-only newcomer, School Night, is actually pretty smart, if unconventional. It may even be brilliant. In present day, start-up-centric San Francisco terms, it’s a “disruptor.” Some “disruptors” truly do disrupt normal life in a negative way and are annoying pests like all of those electric scooters on the sidewalks. Other disruptors like how the Los Angeles chef Dave Beran serves dessert bites throughout the tasting menu at his new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.dialoguerestaurant.com/\">Dialogue\u003c/a>, are initially met with heavy skepticism for being different but then win approval because they end up being a clever change-up from the status quo that nobody knew they wanted or needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127810\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is definitely the latter type of disruptor. Let’s get one thing straight about how it manages to be a restaurant and bar industry disruptor — it isn’t just a restaurant and bar. \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/school-night-bar\">School Night\u003c/a> is an open to the public part of a spectacular two-year old event spaced called \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/\">“The Pearl.”\u003c/a> The venue’s Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson, knew that he couldn’t just open another restaurant in the traditional format when he decided to go into the hospitality business with a background in renewable energy finance (talk about an unlikely path!). Hopefully this isn’t breaking news to the dining public but it’s no secret in the restaurant industry — owning a restaurant or bar or winery or pretty much any food and beverage concept — is not going to make sustainable money. It’s even more daunting in a competitive and outrageously expensive market like this one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127802\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Brooklyn Winery in New York’s flexible business model served as one inspiration for The Pearl, as did multi-purpose art galleries and newer hotels. That aforementioned urban winery, for example, is really a winery, event space, casual place for a few bites, and weddings destination. These are venues that serve multiple functions and attract different crowds for different time periods. They are dynamic concepts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127880\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is enormously helped by The Pearl and The Pearl is greatly enhanced by School Night. Mendelson described the relationship to us as a “virtuous cycle” where The Pearl wouldn’t be on the radar for many Bay Area residents because private event spaces are a small and not very talked-about niche. Everyone pays attention to restaurants and bars. So, much of the public is now aware of The Pearl because of School Night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, School Night gives The Pearl another prime event space on the big nights for those (Thursday-Saturday), which makes a much more substantial amount of money than a restaurant or bar. On those four traditionally slow nights for private events, School Night is its own destination for eating and drinking the creations of one of San Francisco’s most celebrated chefs and one of San Francisco’s most talented bartenders. Besides, who goes out on weekends anymore? Isn’t Monday night the new Saturday night?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard to tell if this is a positive or negative result of #adulting. On one hand, you still have to wake up to work on a Tuesday morning and an 11pm third round of pisco sours might make that less fun. On the other hand, adults (non-parents, that is) don’t have to worry about calculus homework or going to soccer practice because we don’t have the dreaded “school nights” anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127855\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg\" alt=\"Books and signage on display at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127855\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Books and signage on display at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For many people, this writer included, “school night” still sends shivers down our spines like how “flight delay” or “jury duty” makes you freeze and clam up. The term has negative connotations of writing essays about Faulkner at the dinner table and your parents telling you to go to sleep by 10pm even if the Giants game is only in the eighth inning. In other words, school night meant “no fun.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, we have School Night the bar to bring back the “cool” in school night. We’re so over weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127818\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127818\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is an 87-seat bar, open kitchen and dining area located next to The Pearl’s spectacular three-level space, entered from a separate door on 19th Street. The bar’s design is compelling everywhere your eye wanders. It’s worth a trip to the Dogpatch just to see the plant-themed faded prints on the three-dimensional wall fixture near the entrance. But, it’s the Latin-inspired food from Traci Des Jardins and chef de cuisine Audie Golder and the cocktails by Enrique Sanchez that really are the reason to skip the Netflix watching and yoga classes after work in favor of going out on the sleepy town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night's food menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127854\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night's food menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127815\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food menu is split between composed kitchen dishes and items from the kitchen’s retro red, wood-burning oven named Bertha, brought in from Portland, Oregon. Acquring Bertha from our neighbor to the north isn’t as random as it sounds. One of The Pearl’s main investors is Kurt Huffman, a powerful Portland restaurateur with his ChefStable group. Yes, that’s the connection of why Portland’s beloved pig-centric sandwich shop, \u003ca href=\"http://lardosandwiches.com/\">Lardo\u003c/a>, popped up at The Pearl at the end of April. Keep an eye on a closer Portland-San Francisco dining relationship that has, for the most part, been a distant rivalry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Bertha, guests can enjoy surf, turf or vegetables with baby back ribs “costillas” slathered with tomatillo barbecue sauce ($16); clams and mussels cooked by the flames and paired with angel hair pasta and aji amarillo aioli for “fideos” ($17); or blistered vegetables ($14) from Mariquita Farms, the Watsonville farm that Des Jardins works closely with. Queso fundido ($16) is a gooey mix of Oaxacan, Provola and Fontal cheeses melted by Bertha and teamed with chorizo and poblano peppers, then ready to be formed into a kind of DIY quesadilla with flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/_XIHOb7OfoY\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Des Jardins nods to her mother’s and grandparents’ Mexican heritage throughout the menu at her Presidio restaurant, Arguello, and serves a classic plate of tacos al pastor ($15 for three) at School Night. Bay Area diners often cringe at the thought of eating something like duck hearts and gizzards grilled on anticucho skewers ($13), but hopefully can get past that offal mental block because they be some of the most tender and flavorful cuts of duck, beef and chicken. Another unexpected bird preparation emerging from Bertha partners fried quail leg with a moist achiote-marinated quail breast ($23), accompanied by fried plantains and a zesty onion escabeche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wolfe Ranch quail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127836\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wolfe Ranch quail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both Bertha and kitchen dishes aren’t necessarily small plates or large plates. Think of the non-snack dishes as larger tapas that are great for sharing with a friend or enjoying on your own as a two-to-three dish dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those snacks for setting the stage of a full meal or just filling an empty belly while drinking include lime, jalapeño and coriander-dusted pepitas ($4) and housemade tortilla chips with tomatillo-chipotle and guajillo-arbol chile salsas ($6).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the kitchen, diners can order meat-free Impossible meatball “albondigas” one at a time ($3) and learn that the Impossible burger meat might actually excel more in meatball form with tomatillo salsa than as a patty on a bun with ketchup and mustard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg\" alt=\"Meat-free Impossible meatball\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat-free Impossible meatball \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s not as surprising to find \u003ca href=\"https://www.impossiblefoods.com/\">Impossible\u003c/a> meatballs on this bar food menu as it might seem. Des Jardins’ Hayes Valley high-end flagship, Jardinière, was one of the first restaurants in the country to serve it as a burger (and as Impossible beef tartare!). She started her role as a culinary advisor for the Silicon Valley start-up long before it launched in restaurants a year ago. For a little perspective on the company’s growth and Des Jardins’ importance in it, Jardinière and Cockscomb (Chris Cosentino’s meat-centric, opposite of vegetarian SoMa restaurant) were two of the first three restaurants to serve the Impossible burger and now 1,000 restaurants do just over 365 days later. It’s a borderline phenomenon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the menu, instead of serving fries, the duck fat-confited fried potatoes ($12) are smashed, crisped and served with guajillo mojo and crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cebiche ($13) at School Night comes Peruvian-style. That means raw local halibut comes in small cubes, not heavily diced, is only briefly marinated in the lime-based leche de tigre and comes with hominy and corn nuts, instead of tortilla chips as would be done in Mexico. It’s also given the Peruvian spelling of a “b,” not “ceviche.” Sanchez learned this in high school and insists on it, just like one of his mentors (and Peru’s most influential chef), Gastón Acurio. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127838\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cebiche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127838\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cebiche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are generally the last thing on most bar-goers minds but like with the little gem spears at True Laurel and the kale salad at Trick Dog, are given real respect at School Night. The Mexican chopped salad actually is a plate of little gem lettuce cups filled with jicama, cucumber, avocado and pepitas ($13). Meanwhile, the straightforward Tijuana Caesar ($13) is the answer to one of food’s great trivia questions: “Where was the Caesar invented?” Yes, Caesar’s restaurant in Tijuana’s Zona Centro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanchez, a native of Lima, Peru, is one of the city’s great ambassadors for that country’s spectacular cuisine and, of course, pisco. The Peruvian brandy gets its own section on the cocktail menu (all cocktails are $12), as do agave spirits and whiskey. If you’re after a daiquiri or a Negroni, don’t worry, it’s a full bar and you’ll be perfectly happy. But for Sanchez’s menu of a dozen drinks, split four per spirit category, trust the master and enjoy his witty and delicious creations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without question, the bar’s most Instagram-friendly drink is the Maracuyá Sour, essentially a passion fruit and cacao-pisco sour with a “school crossing” symbol stenciled onto the foamy egg white top from a Peychaud’s bitters spray. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg\" alt=\"Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127890\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/NlUovpPHHMg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Principal’s Punch is a play on the San Francisco-invented pisco punch, adding falernum and the herbal French liqueur, Génépy, to the tried-and-true trio of pisco, pineapple and lemon. There’s one catch to that trio. Instead of the usual pineapple gum syrup most recipes for the drink call for, Sanchez makes a pineapple agua fresca-like mix of pineapple juice from the fruit and pineapple water from the skin. Agua fresca and fresh fruit have been a pivotal part of Sanchez’s life since his boyhood when his grandmother had a roadside kiosk selling both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Principal’s Punch\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Principal’s Punch \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition, Sanchez makes his own labor-intensive version of the purple maize-based agua fresca staple in Peru, chicha morada, from pineapple skins, apples, cloves and cinnamon, all stained a deep, dark purple hue from the maize’s cob. It’s served in the, you guessed it, Purple Maize cocktail with pisco, amaro, lime, and orange liqueur. The chicha morada and the pineapple agua fresca are also served on their own as non-alcoholic options ($5). And if you’re wondering, Sanchez, doesn’t make his own version of Peru’s beloved sugary soda, Inka Kola, nor does he actually enjoy drinking it these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a spirit-forward pisco option, spring for the Pura Uvas with Madeira and vermouth. Note how it is garnished with a frozen grape because the drink has only three ingredients and each one is made from grapes, as Sanchez playfully mentions in its menu listing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, many of the drinks have fascinating histories or sarcastically comedic stories behind their names. Sanchez does a great job of offering insights into his drink creations, both with drink description paragraphs on the menu and recipes on the back of bar coasters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg\" alt=\"Coasters with cocktail recipes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coasters with cocktail recipes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Under the “whiskey” section, the bourbon fizz Teacher’s Pet cocktail doesn’t refer to a nickname for Sanchez in school. It’s actually a tongue-in-cheek reference to a whoopie cushion-like trick he and a friend played on a teacher they didn’t like as mischievous 14-year olds. Cochineals are tiny insects found in cactus around Latin America and South America. They have a vivid red color that, well, gave the teacher a colorful bottom when he sat on the cochineals that had been discreetly placed on his chair in a matchbook by the two young students. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg\" alt=\"Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127853\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with making teachers angry, the bugs are often used to naturally color alcohol and cosmetics. Campari discontinued using cochineal for price reasons a few years ago but Cappelletti, one of the key ingredients in the Teacher’s Pet, still adds it. Don’t be grossed out. Cochineal eventually has no taste in the final products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the whiskey side, Hierba Buena is a rye mint julep-like ode to San Francisco’s history as “Yerba Buena” and also the name of the mint leaf used in the drink, providing a minty doubleheader with a San Francisco favorite, fernet. The menu’s Manhattan-style offering is The Queen of Lima, stirring together bourbon; Negra Ciolla (a pisco made of the Negra Criolla grape); mistela (a fortified wine blending pisco and regular grape wine); and Peruvian-made Chuncho bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point, you might be wondering why was whiskey singled out as a specialty on School Night’s menu? An old-fashioned is Sanchez’s drink of choice when going out and the way for him to quickly judge a bar’s potential. On cue, his old-fashioned, Bertha & The Smoke, includes his own blend of bitters (Angostura, orange and Dale DeGroff’s pimento) smoked in Bertha, then stirred with high-proof rye, and poured over a large rock snugly nestled in a previously smoked tumbler.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/3ZNbFhR_MhI\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bertha & The Smoke\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127889\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bertha & The Smoke \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As these approachable but elaborate drinks suggest, Sanchez is one of the under-the-radar stars of San Francisco’s bar community. He’s not a celebrity bartender because he doesn’t seek the spotlight or have his own bar, but he is an icon to his fellow city bar managers and one of the most entertaining bartenders in the city to chat with. If you want to learn every minute detail about smoking bitters or a particular pisco grape, then get ready for a lesson at School Night. There may be homework afterwards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He arrived in San Francisco from Peru as a 21-year old and grew to become the lead bartender for Acurio’s first restaurant outside of Peru, La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, when it opened on the Embarcadero a decade ago. Sanchez is a big reason why pisco sours are now one of the most ordered drinks across the Bay Area. But, his career has also taken him to a few Mexican concepts, like Tres Agaves and Arguello, that have opened his eyes to agave spirits right at the same time that mezcal started having its “revolution” moment. As a Peruvian, pisco will always “be in his blood” but Sanchez acknowledges he’s really excited by mezcal and tequila nowadays. That’s why agave is the third part of his menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His version of a margarita is Mr. Kotter, splitting the difference of a classic recipe’s use of orange liqueur and the Tommy’s way with agave nectar, and serving the drink on a hibiscus-infused rock for a color flourish. Tequila isn’t an expected base for a martini but it is in Pancho’s Martini, smoothed out with the salty embrace of manzanilla sherry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu’s best match for a poolside cocktail is, appropriately, Spring Break, a smoky mezcal drink on ice pebbles with pineapple gum syrup and hibiscus. Finally, if the lecture at School Night is making your eyes feel a little heavy, it’s time for the Recess Reboot. The mezcal drink is an interpretation of how Mexican coffee often has cinnamon, cloves and piloncillo. Sanchez makes the spiced coffee as a cold brew to mix with amaro and whipped cream for a richer body when poured over crushed ice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of cocktails, four local beers are served on draft ($7), Peru’s national Cusqueña lager is available by the bottle ($5) a few tempting sherries are offered ($6-$8) and three wines are poured by-the-glass on draft ($12). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously, in order to make this weeknight-only concept really work, Mendelson knew all along that his grand plan could thrive only if he has an all-star team. He certainly found that with Des Jardins and Sanchez. Des Jardins might not be the national icon of a Thomas Keller or Alice Waters, but the two-time James Beard winner and Central Valley native deserves a place on the local chefs’ Mount Rushmore for her influential work at restaurants and in the community. She sits on the board of La Cocina, is active in all sorts of charity and education activities, and helped launch the Giants’ centerfield garden with the Bon Appétit Management Company a few years ago at AT&T Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127935\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the restaurant side, she started with no culinary training (no school nights!) but landed apprenticeships with many legendary French kitchens including La Maison Troisgros, Alain Passard’s L’Arpège and Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV. After learning classical French techniques from the best mentors possible, Des Jardins’ career brought her back to her home state and the wonderful ingredients of California. She was an opening chef in various capacities at some of the most important restaurants of the 1990s including Patina in Los Angeles (the only one still open); Aqua; Japantown’s fascinating Japanese-French fusion restaurant, Elka (here’s an \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/1993/01/13/garden/from-hill-to-hill-san-francisco-s-top-restaurants.html\">interesting throwback article\u003c/a> about that important but oft-forgotten place); and Rubicon. That last one is where Des Jardins finally could run her own kitchen as Executive Chef and where she won the 1995 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year award. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her solo debut, Jardinière, opened in 1997 and still is as strong as ever, balancing a nightly crowd of theatergoers, older regulars and eager, young food-obsessed diners. Des Jardins also owns or co-owns Mijita, a taqueria in the Ferry Building and attached to AT&T Park; Arguello, TRANSIT and The Commissary in the Presidio; and Public House at AT&T Park. Her restaurant concepts are eclectic in style and location to say the least. After helping to put the Presidio on the San Francisco dining map, it’s exciting to see her help elevate the Dogpatch dining scene in the complete opposite corner of the city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with Mendelson, Des Jardins and Sanchez have a strong team of industry personnel and non-traditional hospitality personnel to make sure this concept isn’t just an experiment. The Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner, a Founding Partner of The Independent concert venue on Divisadero. School Night’s General Manager is Riley Bartlett (Pizzeria Delfina, Spruce) and Amy Reynolds is the Director of Operations for Des Jardins’ medium-sized stable of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1370\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127824\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-768x548.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1200x856.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1180x842.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-960x685.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-375x268.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-520x371.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, The Pearl is its own operation and School Night is an overlapping one between the chef and The Pearl. As far as event spaces go, you’d be hard pressed to find a more impressive venue than The Pearl. It’s a three-level loft-chic space with a gorgeous rooftop patio. The main floor boasts several intriguing maps as pieces of art by Alexis Laurent and a ceiling-high living indoor garden on built-in giant cranes à la New York’s High Line. For a bar next door to not seem like a low-key supporting act to such a stunner...good luck! With Laurent’s help, School Night has managed to be architecturally notable on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl second level space\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl second level space \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl rooftop patio\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl rooftop patio \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seating is split between the bar, central high-tops and wooden booths on the non-bar side wall. The latter two areas have full service. A partition made of glazed glass cubes and a stack of firewood greets diners at the door and then a chic-industrial theme dominates everywhere you look when walking to a seat. Exposed pipes run overhead with oversized lamp bulbs dangling down from the ceiling. They immediately draw your attention to the skylight (trend alert!) that gives the airy space an even grander aura. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are four main design features that the Instagram and gallery-frequenting crowds will appreciate. We mentioned the three-dimensional plant print wall fixture by the entrance, made by Laurent. The bathrooms are right next to it and each stall has an eye-catching tile wall. The bar’s background is a giant menu board that seems partially inspired by the one at Toronado and partially like a chalkboard in a classroom. The far end of the room features a wheel-like light creation by Laurent that has a steampunk vibe to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg\" alt=\"The festive bathroom \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The festive bathroom \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Clearly, School Night has the talent and the design to make it a hit on what are usually the most sluggish evenings of the week for bars and restaurants. Plus, the $12 cocktails are “a deal” by San Francisco’s inflated standards and the venue is in a neighborhood going through a huge building and housing boom. There is a lot working in School Night’s favor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>School Night is an intriguing industry strategy and one that will be closely watched. We’ve seen other restaurants in the city make daring changes, whether it’s having ticketed reservations or serving high-end cuisine in no-frills spaces. It’s up to San Francisco diners and drinkers to fill our the report card for this concept. However, one thing is for certain — when our adult homework involves tasting cebiche and pisco cocktails, we look forward to school nights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127850\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.schoolnightsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>School Night\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n601 19th St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/School+Night/@37.7615343,-122.3911776,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7fb811772cff:0x73e436e233e70b52!8m2!3d37.7615343!4d-122.3889836\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 903-5427\u003cbr>\nHours: Sunday-Wednesday, 5pm-Midnight\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pg/ThePearlSF/about/?ref=page_internal\">The Pearl\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/schoolnightsf/?hl=en\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SchoolNightSF\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1530252006,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":48,"wordCount":4129},"headData":{"title":"Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar | KQED","description":"With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar","datePublished":"2018-05-08T00:12:03.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-29T06:00:06.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"127643 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=127643","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/07/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar/","disqusTitle":"Homework Means Celebrating on School Nights With the Dogpatch’s New Weeknights-Only Bar","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>With a menu designed by Traci Des Jardins and cocktails from Enrique Sanchez, School Night is an Intriguing Private Event Space and Weeknights-Only Bar Hybrid Experiment in the Dogpatch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, a bar being closed on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is like a Financial District coffee shop only being open on weekend evenings or a sports bar strictly serving weekday lunch. It makes you raise your eyebrows as if you’re a judge on “Shark Tank” and begs you to ask the contestant, “Are you trying to lose money with this business plan?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dig a little deeper, however, and you’ll realize that this structure for the Dogpatch Sunday to Wednesday nights-only newcomer, School Night, is actually pretty smart, if unconventional. It may even be brilliant. In present day, start-up-centric San Francisco terms, it’s a “disruptor.” Some “disruptors” truly do disrupt normal life in a negative way and are annoying pests like all of those electric scooters on the sidewalks. Other disruptors like how the Los Angeles chef Dave Beran serves dessert bites throughout the tasting menu at his new restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.dialoguerestaurant.com/\">Dialogue\u003c/a>, are initially met with heavy skepticism for being different but then win approval because they end up being a clever change-up from the status quo that nobody knew they wanted or needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127810\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127810\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4434-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is definitely the latter type of disruptor. Let’s get one thing straight about how it manages to be a restaurant and bar industry disruptor — it isn’t just a restaurant and bar. \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/school-night-bar\">School Night\u003c/a> is an open to the public part of a spectacular two-year old event spaced called \u003ca href=\"https://www.thepearlsf.com/\">“The Pearl.”\u003c/a> The venue’s Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson, knew that he couldn’t just open another restaurant in the traditional format when he decided to go into the hospitality business with a background in renewable energy finance (talk about an unlikely path!). Hopefully this isn’t breaking news to the dining public but it’s no secret in the restaurant industry — owning a restaurant or bar or winery or pretty much any food and beverage concept — is not going to make sustainable money. It’s even more daunting in a competitive and outrageously expensive market like this one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4679-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127802\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127802\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0169-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl Co-Founder and Managing Partner, Adam Mendelson \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Brooklyn Winery in New York’s flexible business model served as one inspiration for The Pearl, as did multi-purpose art galleries and newer hotels. That aforementioned urban winery, for example, is really a winery, event space, casual place for a few bites, and weddings destination. These are venues that serve multiple functions and attract different crowds for different time periods. They are dynamic concepts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127880\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0077-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is enormously helped by The Pearl and The Pearl is greatly enhanced by School Night. Mendelson described the relationship to us as a “virtuous cycle” where The Pearl wouldn’t be on the radar for many Bay Area residents because private event spaces are a small and not very talked-about niche. Everyone pays attention to restaurants and bars. So, much of the public is now aware of The Pearl because of School Night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, School Night gives The Pearl another prime event space on the big nights for those (Thursday-Saturday), which makes a much more substantial amount of money than a restaurant or bar. On those four traditionally slow nights for private events, School Night is its own destination for eating and drinking the creations of one of San Francisco’s most celebrated chefs and one of San Francisco’s most talented bartenders. Besides, who goes out on weekends anymore? Isn’t Monday night the new Saturday night?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s hard to tell if this is a positive or negative result of #adulting. On one hand, you still have to wake up to work on a Tuesday morning and an 11pm third round of pisco sours might make that less fun. On the other hand, adults (non-parents, that is) don’t have to worry about calculus homework or going to soccer practice because we don’t have the dreaded “school nights” anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127855\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg\" alt=\"Books and signage on display at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127855\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0096-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Books and signage on display at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For many people, this writer included, “school night” still sends shivers down our spines like how “flight delay” or “jury duty” makes you freeze and clam up. The term has negative connotations of writing essays about Faulkner at the dinner table and your parents telling you to go to sleep by 10pm even if the Giants game is only in the eighth inning. In other words, school night meant “no fun.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, we have School Night the bar to bring back the “cool” in school night. We’re so over weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127818\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127818\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4612-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>School Night is an 87-seat bar, open kitchen and dining area located next to The Pearl’s spectacular three-level space, entered from a separate door on 19th Street. The bar’s design is compelling everywhere your eye wanders. It’s worth a trip to the Dogpatch just to see the plant-themed faded prints on the three-dimensional wall fixture near the entrance. But, it’s the Latin-inspired food from Traci Des Jardins and chef de cuisine Audie Golder and the cocktails by Enrique Sanchez that really are the reason to skip the Netflix watching and yoga classes after work in favor of going out on the sleepy town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127854\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night's food menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127854\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0094-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night's food menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127815\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4556-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The food menu is split between composed kitchen dishes and items from the kitchen’s retro red, wood-burning oven named Bertha, brought in from Portland, Oregon. Acquring Bertha from our neighbor to the north isn’t as random as it sounds. One of The Pearl’s main investors is Kurt Huffman, a powerful Portland restaurateur with his ChefStable group. Yes, that’s the connection of why Portland’s beloved pig-centric sandwich shop, \u003ca href=\"http://lardosandwiches.com/\">Lardo\u003c/a>, popped up at The Pearl at the end of April. Keep an eye on a closer Portland-San Francisco dining relationship that has, for the most part, been a distant rivalry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Bertha, guests can enjoy surf, turf or vegetables with baby back ribs “costillas” slathered with tomatillo barbecue sauce ($16); clams and mussels cooked by the flames and paired with angel hair pasta and aji amarillo aioli for “fideos” ($17); or blistered vegetables ($14) from Mariquita Farms, the Watsonville farm that Des Jardins works closely with. Queso fundido ($16) is a gooey mix of Oaxacan, Provola and Fontal cheeses melted by Bertha and teamed with chorizo and poblano peppers, then ready to be formed into a kind of DIY quesadilla with flour tortillas.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/_XIHOb7OfoY'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/_XIHOb7OfoY'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Des Jardins nods to her mother’s and grandparents’ Mexican heritage throughout the menu at her Presidio restaurant, Arguello, and serves a classic plate of tacos al pastor ($15 for three) at School Night. Bay Area diners often cringe at the thought of eating something like duck hearts and gizzards grilled on anticucho skewers ($13), but hopefully can get past that offal mental block because they be some of the most tender and flavorful cuts of duck, beef and chicken. Another unexpected bird preparation emerging from Bertha partners fried quail leg with a moist achiote-marinated quail breast ($23), accompanied by fried plantains and a zesty onion escabeche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127836\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg\" alt=\"Wolfe Ranch quail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127836\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0243-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wolfe Ranch quail \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both Bertha and kitchen dishes aren’t necessarily small plates or large plates. Think of the non-snack dishes as larger tapas that are great for sharing with a friend or enjoying on your own as a two-to-three dish dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those snacks for setting the stage of a full meal or just filling an empty belly while drinking include lime, jalapeño and coriander-dusted pepitas ($4) and housemade tortilla chips with tomatillo-chipotle and guajillo-arbol chile salsas ($6).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From the kitchen, diners can order meat-free Impossible meatball “albondigas” one at a time ($3) and learn that the Impossible burger meat might actually excel more in meatball form with tomatillo salsa than as a patty on a bun with ketchup and mustard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg\" alt=\"Meat-free Impossible meatball\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0228-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meat-free Impossible meatball \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s not as surprising to find \u003ca href=\"https://www.impossiblefoods.com/\">Impossible\u003c/a> meatballs on this bar food menu as it might seem. Des Jardins’ Hayes Valley high-end flagship, Jardinière, was one of the first restaurants in the country to serve it as a burger (and as Impossible beef tartare!). She started her role as a culinary advisor for the Silicon Valley start-up long before it launched in restaurants a year ago. For a little perspective on the company’s growth and Des Jardins’ importance in it, Jardinière and Cockscomb (Chris Cosentino’s meat-centric, opposite of vegetarian SoMa restaurant) were two of the first three restaurants to serve the Impossible burger and now 1,000 restaurants do just over 365 days later. It’s a borderline phenomenon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the menu, instead of serving fries, the duck fat-confited fried potatoes ($12) are smashed, crisped and served with guajillo mojo and crema.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cebiche ($13) at School Night comes Peruvian-style. That means raw local halibut comes in small cubes, not heavily diced, is only briefly marinated in the lime-based leche de tigre and comes with hominy and corn nuts, instead of tortilla chips as would be done in Mexico. It’s also given the Peruvian spelling of a “b,” not “ceviche.” Sanchez learned this in high school and insists on it, just like one of his mentors (and Peru’s most influential chef), Gastón Acurio. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127838\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cebiche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127838\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0208-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cebiche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads are generally the last thing on most bar-goers minds but like with the little gem spears at True Laurel and the kale salad at Trick Dog, are given real respect at School Night. The Mexican chopped salad actually is a plate of little gem lettuce cups filled with jicama, cucumber, avocado and pepitas ($13). Meanwhile, the straightforward Tijuana Caesar ($13) is the answer to one of food’s great trivia questions: “Where was the Caesar invented?” Yes, Caesar’s restaurant in Tijuana’s Zona Centro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanchez, a native of Lima, Peru, is one of the city’s great ambassadors for that country’s spectacular cuisine and, of course, pisco. The Peruvian brandy gets its own section on the cocktail menu (all cocktails are $12), as do agave spirits and whiskey. If you’re after a daiquiri or a Negroni, don’t worry, it’s a full bar and you’ll be perfectly happy. But for Sanchez’s menu of a dozen drinks, split four per spirit category, trust the master and enjoy his witty and delicious creations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without question, the bar’s most Instagram-friendly drink is the Maracuyá Sour, essentially a passion fruit and cacao-pisco sour with a “school crossing” symbol stenciled onto the foamy egg white top from a Peychaud’s bitters spray. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg\" alt=\"Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127890\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0178-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Sanchez displays the “school crossing” symbol stencil used to make the Maracuyá Sour cocktail\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/NlUovpPHHMg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/NlUovpPHHMg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>The Principal’s Punch is a play on the San Francisco-invented pisco punch, adding falernum and the herbal French liqueur, Génépy, to the tried-and-true trio of pisco, pineapple and lemon. There’s one catch to that trio. Instead of the usual pineapple gum syrup most recipes for the drink call for, Sanchez makes a pineapple agua fresca-like mix of pineapple juice from the fruit and pineapple water from the skin. Agua fresca and fresh fruit have been a pivotal part of Sanchez’s life since his boyhood when his grandmother had a roadside kiosk selling both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Principal’s Punch\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0092-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Principal’s Punch \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition, Sanchez makes his own labor-intensive version of the purple maize-based agua fresca staple in Peru, chicha morada, from pineapple skins, apples, cloves and cinnamon, all stained a deep, dark purple hue from the maize’s cob. It’s served in the, you guessed it, Purple Maize cocktail with pisco, amaro, lime, and orange liqueur. The chicha morada and the pineapple agua fresca are also served on their own as non-alcoholic options ($5). And if you’re wondering, Sanchez, doesn’t make his own version of Peru’s beloved sugary soda, Inka Kola, nor does he actually enjoy drinking it these days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a spirit-forward pisco option, spring for the Pura Uvas with Madeira and vermouth. Note how it is garnished with a frozen grape because the drink has only three ingredients and each one is made from grapes, as Sanchez playfully mentions in its menu listing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, many of the drinks have fascinating histories or sarcastically comedic stories behind their names. Sanchez does a great job of offering insights into his drink creations, both with drink description paragraphs on the menu and recipes on the back of bar coasters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg\" alt=\"Coasters with cocktail recipes\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0219-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coasters with cocktail recipes \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Under the “whiskey” section, the bourbon fizz Teacher’s Pet cocktail doesn’t refer to a nickname for Sanchez in school. It’s actually a tongue-in-cheek reference to a whoopie cushion-like trick he and a friend played on a teacher they didn’t like as mischievous 14-year olds. Cochineals are tiny insects found in cactus around Latin America and South America. They have a vivid red color that, well, gave the teacher a colorful bottom when he sat on the cochineals that had been discreetly placed on his chair in a matchbook by the two young students. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg\" alt=\"Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127853\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0091-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teacher's Pet from the School Night menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with making teachers angry, the bugs are often used to naturally color alcohol and cosmetics. Campari discontinued using cochineal for price reasons a few years ago but Cappelletti, one of the key ingredients in the Teacher’s Pet, still adds it. Don’t be grossed out. Cochineal eventually has no taste in the final products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elsewhere on the whiskey side, Hierba Buena is a rye mint julep-like ode to San Francisco’s history as “Yerba Buena” and also the name of the mint leaf used in the drink, providing a minty doubleheader with a San Francisco favorite, fernet. The menu’s Manhattan-style offering is The Queen of Lima, stirring together bourbon; Negra Ciolla (a pisco made of the Negra Criolla grape); mistela (a fortified wine blending pisco and regular grape wine); and Peruvian-made Chuncho bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this point, you might be wondering why was whiskey singled out as a specialty on School Night’s menu? An old-fashioned is Sanchez’s drink of choice when going out and the way for him to quickly judge a bar’s potential. On cue, his old-fashioned, Bertha & The Smoke, includes his own blend of bitters (Angostura, orange and Dale DeGroff’s pimento) smoked in Bertha, then stirred with high-proof rye, and poured over a large rock snugly nestled in a previously smoked tumbler.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/3ZNbFhR_MhI'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/3ZNbFhR_MhI'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bertha & The Smoke\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127889\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0183-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bertha & The Smoke \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As these approachable but elaborate drinks suggest, Sanchez is one of the under-the-radar stars of San Francisco’s bar community. He’s not a celebrity bartender because he doesn’t seek the spotlight or have his own bar, but he is an icon to his fellow city bar managers and one of the most entertaining bartenders in the city to chat with. If you want to learn every minute detail about smoking bitters or a particular pisco grape, then get ready for a lesson at School Night. There may be homework afterwards. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He arrived in San Francisco from Peru as a 21-year old and grew to become the lead bartender for Acurio’s first restaurant outside of Peru, La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, when it opened on the Embarcadero a decade ago. Sanchez is a big reason why pisco sours are now one of the most ordered drinks across the Bay Area. But, his career has also taken him to a few Mexican concepts, like Tres Agaves and Arguello, that have opened his eyes to agave spirits right at the same time that mezcal started having its “revolution” moment. As a Peruvian, pisco will always “be in his blood” but Sanchez acknowledges he’s really excited by mezcal and tequila nowadays. That’s why agave is the third part of his menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His version of a margarita is Mr. Kotter, splitting the difference of a classic recipe’s use of orange liqueur and the Tommy’s way with agave nectar, and serving the drink on a hibiscus-infused rock for a color flourish. Tequila isn’t an expected base for a martini but it is in Pancho’s Martini, smoothed out with the salty embrace of manzanilla sherry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu’s best match for a poolside cocktail is, appropriately, Spring Break, a smoky mezcal drink on ice pebbles with pineapple gum syrup and hibiscus. Finally, if the lecture at School Night is making your eyes feel a little heavy, it’s time for the Recess Reboot. The mezcal drink is an interpretation of how Mexican coffee often has cinnamon, cloves and piloncillo. Sanchez makes the spiced coffee as a cold brew to mix with amaro and whipped cream for a richer body when poured over crushed ice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of cocktails, four local beers are served on draft ($7), Peru’s national Cusqueña lager is available by the bottle ($5) a few tempting sherries are offered ($6-$8) and three wines are poured by-the-glass on draft ($12). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Obviously, in order to make this weeknight-only concept really work, Mendelson knew all along that his grand plan could thrive only if he has an all-star team. He certainly found that with Des Jardins and Sanchez. Des Jardins might not be the national icon of a Thomas Keller or Alice Waters, but the two-time James Beard winner and Central Valley native deserves a place on the local chefs’ Mount Rushmore for her influential work at restaurants and in the community. She sits on the board of La Cocina, is active in all sorts of charity and education activities, and helped launch the Giants’ centerfield garden with the Bon Appétit Management Company a few years ago at AT&T Park.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127935\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Traci Des Jardins at School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127935\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4548-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traci Des Jardins at School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On the restaurant side, she started with no culinary training (no school nights!) but landed apprenticeships with many legendary French kitchens including La Maison Troisgros, Alain Passard’s L’Arpège and Alain Ducasse’s Le Louis XV. After learning classical French techniques from the best mentors possible, Des Jardins’ career brought her back to her home state and the wonderful ingredients of California. She was an opening chef in various capacities at some of the most important restaurants of the 1990s including Patina in Los Angeles (the only one still open); Aqua; Japantown’s fascinating Japanese-French fusion restaurant, Elka (here’s an \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/1993/01/13/garden/from-hill-to-hill-san-francisco-s-top-restaurants.html\">interesting throwback article\u003c/a> about that important but oft-forgotten place); and Rubicon. That last one is where Des Jardins finally could run her own kitchen as Executive Chef and where she won the 1995 James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef of the Year award. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her solo debut, Jardinière, opened in 1997 and still is as strong as ever, balancing a nightly crowd of theatergoers, older regulars and eager, young food-obsessed diners. Des Jardins also owns or co-owns Mijita, a taqueria in the Ferry Building and attached to AT&T Park; Arguello, TRANSIT and The Commissary in the Presidio; and Public House at AT&T Park. Her restaurant concepts are eclectic in style and location to say the least. After helping to put the Presidio on the San Francisco dining map, it’s exciting to see her help elevate the Dogpatch dining scene in the complete opposite corner of the city. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with Mendelson, Des Jardins and Sanchez have a strong team of industry personnel and non-traditional hospitality personnel to make sure this concept isn’t just an experiment. The Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner, a Founding Partner of The Independent concert venue on Divisadero. School Night’s General Manager is Riley Bartlett (Pizzeria Delfina, Spruce) and Amy Reynolds is the Director of Operations for Des Jardins’ medium-sized stable of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg\" alt=\"Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1370\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127824\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-768x548.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1200x856.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-1180x842.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-960x685.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-375x268.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4658-new-520x371.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pearl’s General Manager is Jon Larner \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, The Pearl is its own operation and School Night is an overlapping one between the chef and The Pearl. As far as event spaces go, you’d be hard pressed to find a more impressive venue than The Pearl. It’s a three-level loft-chic space with a gorgeous rooftop patio. The main floor boasts several intriguing maps as pieces of art by Alexis Laurent and a ceiling-high living indoor garden on built-in giant cranes à la New York’s High Line. For a bar next door to not seem like a low-key supporting act to such a stunner...good luck! With Laurent’s help, School Night has managed to be architecturally notable on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127827\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4700-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside The Pearl looking down on the first level \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl second level space\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4706-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl second level space \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Pearl rooftop patio\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4710-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pearl rooftop patio \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seating is split between the bar, central high-tops and wooden booths on the non-bar side wall. The latter two areas have full service. A partition made of glazed glass cubes and a stack of firewood greets diners at the door and then a chic-industrial theme dominates everywhere you look when walking to a seat. Exposed pipes run overhead with oversized lamp bulbs dangling down from the ceiling. They immediately draw your attention to the skylight (trend alert!) that gives the airy space an even grander aura. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside School Night\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4619-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside School Night \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are four main design features that the Instagram and gallery-frequenting crowds will appreciate. We mentioned the three-dimensional plant print wall fixture by the entrance, made by Laurent. The bathrooms are right next to it and each stall has an eye-catching tile wall. The bar’s background is a giant menu board that seems partially inspired by the one at Toronado and partially like a chalkboard in a classroom. The far end of the room features a wheel-like light creation by Laurent that has a steampunk vibe to it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127837\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127837\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4628-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-dimensional plant print wall relief by San Francisco artist Alexis Laurent \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg\" alt=\"The festive bathroom \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_4636-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The festive bathroom \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Clearly, School Night has the talent and the design to make it a hit on what are usually the most sluggish evenings of the week for bars and restaurants. Plus, the $12 cocktails are “a deal” by San Francisco’s inflated standards and the venue is in a neighborhood going through a huge building and housing boom. There is a lot working in School Night’s favor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>School Night is an intriguing industry strategy and one that will be closely watched. We’ve seen other restaurants in the city make daring changes, whether it’s having ticketed reservations or serving high-end cuisine in no-frills spaces. It’s up to San Francisco diners and drinkers to fill our the report card for this concept. However, one thing is for certain — when our adult homework involves tasting cebiche and pisco cocktails, we look forward to school nights. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg\" alt=\"School Night signage\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127850\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/IMG_0084-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">School Night signage \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.schoolnightsf.com/\">\u003cstrong>School Night\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n601 19th St. \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/School+Night/@37.7615343,-122.3911776,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7fb811772cff:0x73e436e233e70b52!8m2!3d37.7615343!4d-122.3889836\">MAP\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 903-5427\u003cbr>\nHours: Sunday-Wednesday, 5pm-Midnight\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pg/ThePearlSF/about/?ref=page_internal\">The Pearl\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/schoolnightsf/?hl=en\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SchoolNightSF\">@SchoolNightSF\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/127643/homework-means-celebrating-on-school-nights-with-the-dogpatchs-new-weeknights-only-bar","authors":["byline_bayareabites_127643"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_2804","bayareabites_16141","bayareabites_16140","bayareabites_1251"],"featImg":"bayareabites_127803","label":"bayareabites_16196"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. 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