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"disqusTitle": "From San José to Little Saigon, on the Bánh Mì Bus",
"title": "From San José to Little Saigon, on the Bánh Mì Bus",
"headTitle": "The California Report Magazine | KQED News",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The mention of a certain north-south bus line makes many Vietnamese Californians smile.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The first time riding this bus, I was feeling like I was sitting in central Saigon's sidewalk. We ate Vietnamese sandwiches and watched a Vietnamese music show on TV,” wrote Hồng Cao, director of operations at the Việt Museum in San José, in a text. “People on the bus were so talkative. They exchanged all the news that happened in San Jose and in Orange County. You did not need to read the newspaper to know what was happening in your areas.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SFO and LAX may be the largest airports in California, but two strip malls, one in East San José and another in Westminster, have also become transportation hubs, connecting the two largest Vietnamese communities outside Vietnam.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since 1998, seniors, students, reluctant drivers and bargain hunters of all ethnicities have relied on the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.xedohoang.com/index.php/en/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Xe Đò Hoàng\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bus line. Service runs from multiple Vietnamese commercial centers in California and Arizona, but the flagship route remains the one along Interstate 5 between San José and Westminster, the original Little Saigon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most major stops are near at least one shop selling bánh mì, the iconic Vietnamese sandwich: a baguette filled with grilled meat, cold cuts or pâté, pickled vegetables, herbs, chilis and proprietary seasonings. Before COVID, the on-bus service included a free bánh mì from a nearby shop. That’s how the line got its nickname: the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CXrT74BvBMDCqrn6nptZCrQCTfvtbZETjd83DakrEWw/edit?usp=sharing\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh mì bus\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Now, passengers bring their own food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the uninitiated, the first time at a Xe Đò Hoàng bus stop can bring feelings of uncertainty, especially because the white tour coaches have no logos and the stop has no signs.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There will be no markings other than Asian people hanging out under the shade of the trees,” writes \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EvSFkB_ecdM2__zovMF7zk6gb397BJPw/view?usp=sharing\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Penelope M.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> from Los Angeles in a Yelp review.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I had heard about the bus for years. My teenager loves to eat, and this summer, she requested a trip to Orange County to gorge at the weekend \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.littlesaigonnow.com/asian-garden-night-market-1170.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">night market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. I thought, why not go in real Viet style? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So early on a recent Thursday morning, we headed to an East San José strip mall. As the kind of mom who needs to ensure there’s enough to eat, I was relieved to find four bánh mì shops in a one-block radius. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/kims-sandwiches-san-jose\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kim’s Sandwiches\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has house-made mayonnaise, which, for me, earns it an extra star in ratings. We hurried to choose our on-board meal, because the bus leaves at exactly 8:30. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">t the bus stop — on the corner of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Burdette Drive and S. King Road — I spotted Asian people with reusable shopping bags and rolling luggage, just like “Penelope M.” promised. I was in the right place.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tùng Đỗ, the driver, checked my name off his iPad. Reservations are available by phone or through online third-party vendors but are not necessary. Another employee with a mask on his chin, cigarette dangling from his mouth, placed my duffel in the cargo bay next to several crates of papayas and someone’s portable air conditioner.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927005\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927005\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Five people are next to a bus with one person walking next to it.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tùng Đỗ, a professional driver for 30 years, says the job runs in his veins. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Like Greyhound, but Vietnamesified\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Xe Đò Hoàng bus company started when its founder, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linh Hoàng Nguyễn, saw an opportunity. Around \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://facts.aapidata.com/nationaldata/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">700,000\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Vietnamese Americans live in California. San José and Little Saigon in Orange County anchor the community, much like \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hanoi\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saigon\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the historical northern and southern capitals of Vietnam.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the late 1990s, Linh, a former refugee-turned-professional driver, voluntarily helped other Vietnamese people navigate airport check-ins at Orange County’s John Wayne Airport. For many immigrants who didn’t “know the way to San José,” the airport and the language barrier were overwhelming. There had to be an easier way.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linh \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">wondered, what if he drove people himself? He \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">started with a few vans between San José and Westminster. He charged less than Greyhound and the route was three hours faster. Eventually his company expanded into a fleet of tour coaches. By providing folksy service, Vietnamese-speaking staff, familiar entertainment and a free bánh mì, Linh created Vietnamese #vanlife or #buslife culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With enough food to last us the six-hour ride, my daughter and I settle into our seats. We roll down Highway 101, past Gilroy’s garlic fields. Spanish, Tagalog and Chinese conversations intersperse with Vietnamese. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Behind me, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyễn, 73, marvels at the low prices for avocados at roadside stands. I’m also a farm stand aficionado, and we quickly fall into a conversation about fruit prices. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">smiles approvingly at my daughter. She tells me she and her husband, Ly, don’t feel confident driving the 400 miles to see their grandchildren. They’d rather relax.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today’s trip is relatively quiet except for opera drifting from someone’s phone. On-board entertainment depends on the driver’s mood. The bus line is known for playing back-to-back episodes of \"\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thuynga.com/en_us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Paris by Night\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\" the blockbuster Vietnamese variety show, from the drop-down screens, but today, driver Tùng Đỗ lets riders choose their own entertainment.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927008\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-800x1067.jpeg\" alt=\"Bare feet are seen coming from a seat while people sit on a bus.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elders would rather relax than drive the 400 miles between San José and Little Saigon. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Andrew \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lê\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, 18, has on earbuds and scrolls through his phone. He’s unfazed that the woman behind him has propped her bare foot on his arm rest. He just graduated from high school and is on his way south to meet cousins at an electronic dance music festival. He says he looked into a train, but didn’t feel confident he could manage all the transfers. Plus, the journey would have taken over 12 hours. His mother booked him this trip and sent him with a bánh mì.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We pass the Harris Cattle Ranch, California’s largest feedlot, outside Coalinga. I’m thankful for the aggressive air-conditioning that quickly circulates air. Gentle snoring mixes with the hum of the bus engine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, smiling, passes me an adorable cluster of apple bananas. The fruit is firm and fragrant, and tastes faintly of pineapple.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927007\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-800x1067.jpeg\" alt=\"A person wearing a mask holding bananas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s daughter enjoys a gift from fellow rider Hiền Nguyễn. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Surviving pandemic challenges … and attempted murder\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like many businesses, Xe Đò Hoàng had to make adjustments during the pandemic. When indoor dining was prohibited, its long tradition of providing free lunch ended. What was once many buses a day became a single bus in each direction. But customers are coming back. More recently, a second afternoon run resumed on weekends, but rising gas prices have also cut into the company’s profits. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A ride is now $50, but when I rode, staff made accommodations for seniors who were used to previous pricing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Employees tell me Xe Đò Hoàng has leaned on its same-day shipping service to maintain income. The flat-rate shipping — $5 for small items to $20 for items up to 60 pounds — is cheaper than FedEx. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A scale was available, but no one really seemed to bother weighing anything. I counted eight tropical fruit trees by the cargo bay. I don’t know how they stuffed them inside.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927066\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"A man reaches into the storage under a bus with potted plants in front of him.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An employee arranges plants and tropical fruits for shipping. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Besides \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.xedohoang.com/index.php/en/package-shipping\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">weapons, explosives, and illegal substances\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, only a few items are off-limits. While staff discourage odiferous foodstuffs like fish sauce, durian or jackfruit, I spotted a jackfruit in the shadows of the cargo bay. It must have weighed 40 pounds.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Xe Đò Hoàng bus company has survived previous existential challenges. In the early aughts, business was so lucrative, copycats pushed owner Linh Hoàng Nguyễn into a “bus war.” What happened is part of California Vietnamese lore: Prices dropped. Someone torched two buses. A driver was assaulted. Then came the attempted murder.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On July 23, 2005, as Linh got into his car at his home in Fountain Valley to go to work, a gunman fired six shots through his window. Linh took bullets in the neck, shoulder blade and arm. He was admitted to UC Irvine Medical Center’s intensive care unit.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">News of the attempted killing ricocheted throughout Vietnamese communities as far as Australia and France. And people rallied around Linh. Two weeks after being shot, he was out and about, on a thank-you tour through Little Saigon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Following the shooting, business actually improved. An investigation that spanned Northern and Southern California concluded that the incident was an attempted murder for hire, ordered by a competitor. Eventually, in 2009, \u003ca href=\"https://www.ocregister.com/2009/12/04/man-sentenced-to-30-years-for-driveway-shooting/\">three hitmen were convicted\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today, Linh is on top again, one competitor after another gone.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Vietnamese #buslife\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Xe Đò Hoàng is a vital part of the community: Linh’s buses have given free rides to political protests. Newspapers and specialty food vendors use the bus for their north-south distribution network. During Tết, the Lunar New Year, families ship their loved ones gifts. The company sponsors an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://vietbao.com/a208487/gioi-thieu-cac-nha-tai-tro-giai-thuong-viet-ve-nuoc-my-2013-xe-do-hoang-net-van-hoa-rieng-cua-nguoi-viet-o-my\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">annual contest\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> called “Writing About America,” with essays that include meditations on\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://vvnm.vietbao.com/a203317/chuyen-nghe-lom-tren-xe-do-hoang\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> riding the bus\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"A bus with multiple people sitting in rows.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Since 1998, seniors, students and reluctant drivers have relied on the Xe Đò Hoàng bus line. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even Vietnamese in Vietnam know about the bus. YouTubers document their American vacations on the Xe Đò Hoàng on channels like “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/GxAqAL0CWrg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Khánh Nguyễn’s \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">American Life\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” and “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/t-0sxv7848w\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Lady Who Sells Phở\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outside, a cluster of umbrellas in rainbow colors shade fieldworkers. I keep time by watching a young man ahead of me struggle to sleep. Every few minutes, his head drifts precariously into the central aisle. He then straightens his neck, but eventually his head slips down again. A Buddhist nun drinks soy milk directly from a half gallon carton.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A Tupperware container suddenly materializes over my shoulder. It’s Hiền again, and this time, she’s got homemade \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">xôi vò\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Xôi vò is sweet rice dusted with mung bean powder and a hint of coconut. It was my favorite childhood food. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền’s \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">topped hers with thick matchstick slices of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chả lụa\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which looks like mortadella steamed in banana leaves. She hands me a package of disposable utensils. I dig in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During the only break at the Buttonwillow Travel Center outside Bakersfield, elders stretch in the parking lot.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next to a businessman who doesn’t want to be disturbed is Tsui-Ching Kim, 67. By her count, she’s ridden the bus at least 30 times in the past decade. She lives in Los Angeles, but visits her son who works in the Bay Area. There’s the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.chinatown-bus.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinatown Bus\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which caters to Chinese people like her, but she still prefers the Xe Đò Hoàng.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Because I know the driver. He is a good driver,” says Tsui-Ching.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tùng Đỗ\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the driver, scarfs down his lunch: \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh cuốn\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a rice-paper crepe filled with ground pork. He’s been a driver for 30 years, six for Xe Đò Hoàng.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I drive because I love this work,” says Tùng. “If you love your job, then you can do your job well and keep going.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a family calling. Before 1975, when South Vietnam fell to the north, his grandparents had a similar business shuttling passengers from Saigon to the resort town of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Đà Lạt\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The bus is already rolling again when a group runs across the parking lot to board. Xe Đò Hoàng has a reputation for being punctual. Tùng stops to let the stragglers back on. They’re out of breath, laughing and holding their bags of Popeyes fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Echoes of home\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We pass oil donkeys on flat scrubland. What looks like a concrete-lined river is the California Aqueduct, which collects water from northern rivers to distribute to the rest of the state. Climbing the San Emigdio Mountains, we pass Pyramid Lake, a major pumping station, then descend to the Los Angeles Basin.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền — my friendly auntie who keeps feeding me — and her husband say the mountains remind them of Đà Lạt. Once called “Petit Paris,” Đà Lạt has a kind of mythical quality for many older Vietnamese. It’s 5,000 feet above sea level and surrounded by pine trees. In the past, it was a getaway for French colonialists, artists and newlyweds. It seems anytime there are trees and a mountain, an elder will say it looks like Đà Lạt. I squint at the Six Flags Magic Mountain theme park and try to relate.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After brief stops in LA’s Chinatown and El Monte, and more than five hours on the road, someone decides now is the time to crack open some fish sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Sister, please close it, you can’t use fish sauce on the bus,” says Tùng, averting a potential disaster. “The rules are the same: fish sauce, salt sauce, please close it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Forty-five minutes later, we arrive at ABC Supermarket in Westminster. Tùng helps a woman with a cane disembark. Family members crowd to collect relatives and cargo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927010\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927010\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Multiple people holding luggage near a bus.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Passengers collect their belongings at the ABC Supermarket parking lot. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The corner of Magnolia Street and Bolsa Avenue does not have summer getaway vibes. But I’m not in Little Saigon to hang out at the beach. I’ve got a list of food to eat.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927012\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927012\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Two people are seen holding utensils over food that is cooking in a restaurant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The summer night market at Asian Garden Mall features food from local vendors \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This year, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/banh%20mi\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Merriam-Webster\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> added “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh mì”\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to its lexicon. I think of the sandwich as a kind of Vietnamese gateway food. In its own way, a ride on the Xe Đò Hoàng feels like traveling to a new place that also somehow feels familiar — kind of like looking at a California amusement park, and swearing you’re in Đà Lạt.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927014\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927014\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"A building and parking lot with people outside.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Asian Garden Mall anchors businesses in Little Saigon. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>If you go:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you purchase a bánh mì to eat later, ask to have your pickled veggies/herbs/chilis bagged separately from your baguette filled with meat and seasonings. That way your bread will not get soggy and the veggies will retain a perfect cold-crisp crunch when it’s time to eat.\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/duc-huong-san-jose?osq=gio+cha+duc+huong\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Giò Chả Đức Hương\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has a polarizing reputation. Not to be confused with a nearby \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/duc-huong-gio-cha-sandwiches-san-jose?osq=duc+huong\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sister location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that sells one of the most popular bánh mì \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San José\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this deli sells only the \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chả lụa,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> among other ingredients, to make your \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">own \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh mì\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Relatives from Houston would bring food back home from this store. However, the customer service is brusque. \u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.brodardrestaurant.net/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Brodard\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is famous for its\u003c/span> \u003ca href=\"https://www.brodard.net/items/grilled-pork-spring-rolls-nem-nuong-cuon\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">em cuốn\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The rice-paper wrapper for spring rolls quickly gets dry, brittle and chewy. Supermarket rolls suffer from this problem. But with an entire side of the kitchen continuously devoted to rolling up\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> nem cuốn\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, you know that the rolls here will be fresh. \u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.coolteabar.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cool Tea Bar\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in San José is part of a Taiwanese chain. Try their roasted milk tea with soft\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sương sáo\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(grass jelly). \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en/article/kbkky9/sweet-black-grass-jelly-shouldnt-come-out-of-a-can\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Grass jelly\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is made from the mesona herb and has a faintly bitter taste that prevents drinks from becoming cloyingly sweet. The smoke-colored grass jelly here is homemade, with a soft silky texture that no canned jelly can duplicate.\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.nepcafe.us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nếp Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is a coffee and brunch spot by day and a restaurant called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gemdining.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gem\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> by night. Vietnamese coffee is becoming more ubiquitous, but what about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://vietnamenu.com/vietnamese-food-ca-phe-trung.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cà phê trứng\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, egg coffee? Their egg coffee, originally from northern Vietnam, is not what I expected (thankfully there was no goopy yolk oozing in my coffee). Egg yolk is whipped with condensed milk into an airy froth. It tastes like liquid tiramisu.\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Two strip malls, one in East San José and another in Westminster, have become transportation hubs, connecting the two largest Vietnamese communities outside Vietnam. And most major stops along the route are near at least one shop selling bánh mì, the iconic Vietnamese sandwich.",
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"title": "From San José to Little Saigon, on the Bánh Mì Bus | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The mention of a certain north-south bus line makes many Vietnamese Californians smile.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The first time riding this bus, I was feeling like I was sitting in central Saigon's sidewalk. We ate Vietnamese sandwiches and watched a Vietnamese music show on TV,” wrote Hồng Cao, director of operations at the Việt Museum in San José, in a text. “People on the bus were so talkative. They exchanged all the news that happened in San Jose and in Orange County. You did not need to read the newspaper to know what was happening in your areas.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SFO and LAX may be the largest airports in California, but two strip malls, one in East San José and another in Westminster, have also become transportation hubs, connecting the two largest Vietnamese communities outside Vietnam.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Since 1998, seniors, students, reluctant drivers and bargain hunters of all ethnicities have relied on the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.xedohoang.com/index.php/en/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Xe Đò Hoàng\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bus line. Service runs from multiple Vietnamese commercial centers in California and Arizona, but the flagship route remains the one along Interstate 5 between San José and Westminster, the original Little Saigon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most major stops are near at least one shop selling bánh mì, the iconic Vietnamese sandwich: a baguette filled with grilled meat, cold cuts or pâté, pickled vegetables, herbs, chilis and proprietary seasonings. Before COVID, the on-bus service included a free bánh mì from a nearby shop. That’s how the line got its nickname: the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CXrT74BvBMDCqrn6nptZCrQCTfvtbZETjd83DakrEWw/edit?usp=sharing\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh mì bus\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Now, passengers bring their own food.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the uninitiated, the first time at a Xe Đò Hoàng bus stop can bring feelings of uncertainty, especially because the white tour coaches have no logos and the stop has no signs.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“There will be no markings other than Asian people hanging out under the shade of the trees,” writes \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EvSFkB_ecdM2__zovMF7zk6gb397BJPw/view?usp=sharing\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Penelope M.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> from Los Angeles in a Yelp review.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I had heard about the bus for years. My teenager loves to eat, and this summer, she requested a trip to Orange County to gorge at the weekend \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.littlesaigonnow.com/asian-garden-night-market-1170.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">night market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. I thought, why not go in real Viet style? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So early on a recent Thursday morning, we headed to an East San José strip mall. As the kind of mom who needs to ensure there’s enough to eat, I was relieved to find four bánh mì shops in a one-block radius. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/kims-sandwiches-san-jose\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kim’s Sandwiches\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has house-made mayonnaise, which, for me, earns it an extra star in ratings. We hurried to choose our on-board meal, because the bus leaves at exactly 8:30. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">t the bus stop — on the corner of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Burdette Drive and S. King Road — I spotted Asian people with reusable shopping bags and rolling luggage, just like “Penelope M.” promised. I was in the right place.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tùng Đỗ, the driver, checked my name off his iPad. Reservations are available by phone or through online third-party vendors but are not necessary. Another employee with a mask on his chin, cigarette dangling from his mouth, placed my duffel in the cargo bay next to several crates of papayas and someone’s portable air conditioner.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927005\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927005\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Five people are next to a bus with one person walking next to it.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4640-Tung-Do-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tùng Đỗ, a professional driver for 30 years, says the job runs in his veins. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Like Greyhound, but Vietnamesified\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Xe Đò Hoàng bus company started when its founder, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linh Hoàng Nguyễn, saw an opportunity. Around \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://facts.aapidata.com/nationaldata/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">700,000\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Vietnamese Americans live in California. San José and Little Saigon in Orange County anchor the community, much like \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hanoi\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Saigon\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the historical northern and southern capitals of Vietnam.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the late 1990s, Linh, a former refugee-turned-professional driver, voluntarily helped other Vietnamese people navigate airport check-ins at Orange County’s John Wayne Airport. For many immigrants who didn’t “know the way to San José,” the airport and the language barrier were overwhelming. There had to be an easier way.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linh \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">wondered, what if he drove people himself? He \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">started with a few vans between San José and Westminster. He charged less than Greyhound and the route was three hours faster. Eventually his company expanded into a fleet of tour coaches. By providing folksy service, Vietnamese-speaking staff, familiar entertainment and a free bánh mì, Linh created Vietnamese #vanlife or #buslife culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With enough food to last us the six-hour ride, my daughter and I settle into our seats. We roll down Highway 101, past Gilroy’s garlic fields. Spanish, Tagalog and Chinese conversations intersperse with Vietnamese. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Behind me, \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyễn, 73, marvels at the low prices for avocados at roadside stands. I’m also a farm stand aficionado, and we quickly fall into a conversation about fruit prices. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">smiles approvingly at my daughter. She tells me she and her husband, Ly, don’t feel confident driving the 400 miles to see their grandchildren. They’d rather relax.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today’s trip is relatively quiet except for opera drifting from someone’s phone. On-board entertainment depends on the driver’s mood. The bus line is known for playing back-to-back episodes of \"\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thuynga.com/en_us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Paris by Night\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\" the blockbuster Vietnamese variety show, from the drop-down screens, but today, driver Tùng Đỗ lets riders choose their own entertainment.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927008\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927008\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-800x1067.jpeg\" alt=\"Bare feet are seen coming from a seat while people sit on a bus.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4659-feet-relax-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elders would rather relax than drive the 400 miles between San José and Little Saigon. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Andrew \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lê\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, 18, has on earbuds and scrolls through his phone. He’s unfazed that the woman behind him has propped her bare foot on his arm rest. He just graduated from high school and is on his way south to meet cousins at an electronic dance music festival. He says he looked into a train, but didn’t feel confident he could manage all the transfers. Plus, the journey would have taken over 12 hours. His mother booked him this trip and sent him with a bánh mì.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We pass the Harris Cattle Ranch, California’s largest feedlot, outside Coalinga. I’m thankful for the aggressive air-conditioning that quickly circulates air. Gentle snoring mixes with the hum of the bus engine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, smiling, passes me an adorable cluster of apple bananas. The fruit is firm and fragrant, and tastes faintly of pineapple.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927007\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927007\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-800x1067.jpeg\" alt=\"A person wearing a mask holding bananas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4654-bananas-scaled-e1664402767605.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s daughter enjoys a gift from fellow rider Hiền Nguyễn. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Surviving pandemic challenges … and attempted murder\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like many businesses, Xe Đò Hoàng had to make adjustments during the pandemic. When indoor dining was prohibited, its long tradition of providing free lunch ended. What was once many buses a day became a single bus in each direction. But customers are coming back. More recently, a second afternoon run resumed on weekends, but rising gas prices have also cut into the company’s profits. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A ride is now $50, but when I rode, staff made accommodations for seniors who were used to previous pricing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Employees tell me Xe Đò Hoàng has leaned on its same-day shipping service to maintain income. The flat-rate shipping — $5 for small items to $20 for items up to 60 pounds — is cheaper than FedEx. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A scale was available, but no one really seemed to bother weighing anything. I counted eight tropical fruit trees by the cargo bay. I don’t know how they stuffed them inside.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927066\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"A man reaches into the storage under a bus with potted plants in front of him.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4843-plants-1-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An employee arranges plants and tropical fruits for shipping. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Besides \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.xedohoang.com/index.php/en/package-shipping\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">weapons, explosives, and illegal substances\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, only a few items are off-limits. While staff discourage odiferous foodstuffs like fish sauce, durian or jackfruit, I spotted a jackfruit in the shadows of the cargo bay. It must have weighed 40 pounds.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Xe Đò Hoàng bus company has survived previous existential challenges. In the early aughts, business was so lucrative, copycats pushed owner Linh Hoàng Nguyễn into a “bus war.” What happened is part of California Vietnamese lore: Prices dropped. Someone torched two buses. A driver was assaulted. Then came the attempted murder.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On July 23, 2005, as Linh got into his car at his home in Fountain Valley to go to work, a gunman fired six shots through his window. Linh took bullets in the neck, shoulder blade and arm. He was admitted to UC Irvine Medical Center’s intensive care unit.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">News of the attempted killing ricocheted throughout Vietnamese communities as far as Australia and France. And people rallied around Linh. Two weeks after being shot, he was out and about, on a thank-you tour through Little Saigon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Following the shooting, business actually improved. An investigation that spanned Northern and Southern California concluded that the incident was an attempted murder for hire, ordered by a competitor. Eventually, in 2009, \u003ca href=\"https://www.ocregister.com/2009/12/04/man-sentenced-to-30-years-for-driveway-shooting/\">three hitmen were convicted\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today, Linh is on top again, one competitor after another gone.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Vietnamese #buslife\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Xe Đò Hoàng is a vital part of the community: Linh’s buses have given free rides to political protests. Newspapers and specialty food vendors use the bus for their north-south distribution network. During Tết, the Lunar New Year, families ship their loved ones gifts. The company sponsors an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://vietbao.com/a208487/gioi-thieu-cac-nha-tai-tro-giai-thuong-viet-ve-nuoc-my-2013-xe-do-hoang-net-van-hoa-rieng-cua-nguoi-viet-o-my\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">annual contest\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> called “Writing About America,” with essays that include meditations on\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://vvnm.vietbao.com/a203317/chuyen-nghe-lom-tren-xe-do-hoang\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> riding the bus\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927006\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927006\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"A bus with multiple people sitting in rows.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4646-aisle-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Since 1998, seniors, students and reluctant drivers have relied on the Xe Đò Hoàng bus line. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even Vietnamese in Vietnam know about the bus. YouTubers document their American vacations on the Xe Đò Hoàng on channels like “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/GxAqAL0CWrg\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Khánh Nguyễn’s \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">American Life\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” and “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/t-0sxv7848w\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Lady Who Sells Phở\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Outside, a cluster of umbrellas in rainbow colors shade fieldworkers. I keep time by watching a young man ahead of me struggle to sleep. Every few minutes, his head drifts precariously into the central aisle. He then straightens his neck, but eventually his head slips down again. A Buddhist nun drinks soy milk directly from a half gallon carton.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A Tupperware container suddenly materializes over my shoulder. It’s Hiền again, and this time, she’s got homemade \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">xôi vò\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Xôi vò is sweet rice dusted with mung bean powder and a hint of coconut. It was my favorite childhood food. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền’s \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">topped hers with thick matchstick slices of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chả lụa\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which looks like mortadella steamed in banana leaves. She hands me a package of disposable utensils. I dig in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During the only break at the Buttonwillow Travel Center outside Bakersfield, elders stretch in the parking lot.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next to a businessman who doesn’t want to be disturbed is Tsui-Ching Kim, 67. By her count, she’s ridden the bus at least 30 times in the past decade. She lives in Los Angeles, but visits her son who works in the Bay Area. There’s the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.chinatown-bus.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinatown Bus\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which caters to Chinese people like her, but she still prefers the Xe Đò Hoàng.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Because I know the driver. He is a good driver,” says Tsui-Ching.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tùng Đỗ\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the driver, scarfs down his lunch: \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh cuốn\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a rice-paper crepe filled with ground pork. He’s been a driver for 30 years, six for Xe Đò Hoàng.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I drive because I love this work,” says Tùng. “If you love your job, then you can do your job well and keep going.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a family calling. Before 1975, when South Vietnam fell to the north, his grandparents had a similar business shuttling passengers from Saigon to the resort town of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Đà Lạt\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The bus is already rolling again when a group runs across the parking lot to board. Xe Đò Hoàng has a reputation for being punctual. Tùng stops to let the stragglers back on. They’re out of breath, laughing and holding their bags of Popeyes fried chicken.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Echoes of home\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">We pass oil donkeys on flat scrubland. What looks like a concrete-lined river is the California Aqueduct, which collects water from northern rivers to distribute to the rest of the state. Climbing the San Emigdio Mountains, we pass Pyramid Lake, a major pumping station, then descend to the Los Angeles Basin.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hiền — my friendly auntie who keeps feeding me — and her husband say the mountains remind them of Đà Lạt. Once called “Petit Paris,” Đà Lạt has a kind of mythical quality for many older Vietnamese. It’s 5,000 feet above sea level and surrounded by pine trees. In the past, it was a getaway for French colonialists, artists and newlyweds. It seems anytime there are trees and a mountain, an elder will say it looks like Đà Lạt. I squint at the Six Flags Magic Mountain theme park and try to relate.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After brief stops in LA’s Chinatown and El Monte, and more than five hours on the road, someone decides now is the time to crack open some fish sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Sister, please close it, you can’t use fish sauce on the bus,” says Tùng, averting a potential disaster. “The rules are the same: fish sauce, salt sauce, please close it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Forty-five minutes later, we arrive at ABC Supermarket in Westminster. Tùng helps a woman with a cane disembark. Family members crowd to collect relatives and cargo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927010\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927010\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Multiple people holding luggage near a bus.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4685-ABC-lot-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Passengers collect their belongings at the ABC Supermarket parking lot. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The corner of Magnolia Street and Bolsa Avenue does not have summer getaway vibes. But I’m not in Little Saigon to hang out at the beach. I’ve got a list of food to eat.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927012\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927012\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Two people are seen holding utensils over food that is cooking in a restaurant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4786-night-market-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The summer night market at Asian Garden Mall features food from local vendors \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This year, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/banh%20mi\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Merriam-Webster\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> added “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh mì”\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to its lexicon. I think of the sandwich as a kind of Vietnamese gateway food. In its own way, a ride on the Xe Đò Hoàng feels like traveling to a new place that also somehow feels familiar — kind of like looking at a California amusement park, and swearing you’re in Đà Lạt.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11927014\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-scaled.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11927014\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"A building and parking lot with people outside.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/09/IMG_4839-Asian-Garden-Mall-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Asian Garden Mall anchors businesses in Little Saigon. \u003ccite>(Christine Nguyen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>If you go:\u003c/h3>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you purchase a bánh mì to eat later, ask to have your pickled veggies/herbs/chilis bagged separately from your baguette filled with meat and seasonings. That way your bread will not get soggy and the veggies will retain a perfect cold-crisp crunch when it’s time to eat.\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/duc-huong-san-jose?osq=gio+cha+duc+huong\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Giò Chả Đức Hương\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has a polarizing reputation. Not to be confused with a nearby \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/duc-huong-gio-cha-sandwiches-san-jose?osq=duc+huong\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sister location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that sells one of the most popular bánh mì \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San José\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this deli sells only the \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">chả lụa,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> among other ingredients, to make your \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">own \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bánh mì\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Relatives from Houston would bring food back home from this store. However, the customer service is brusque. \u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.brodardrestaurant.net/about-us\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Brodard\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is famous for its\u003c/span> \u003ca href=\"https://www.brodard.net/items/grilled-pork-spring-rolls-nem-nuong-cuon\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">em cuốn\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The rice-paper wrapper for spring rolls quickly gets dry, brittle and chewy. Supermarket rolls suffer from this problem. But with an entire side of the kitchen continuously devoted to rolling up\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> nem cuốn\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, you know that the rolls here will be fresh. \u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.coolteabar.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cool Tea Bar\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in San José is part of a Taiwanese chain. Try their roasted milk tea with soft\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sương sáo\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">(grass jelly). \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en/article/kbkky9/sweet-black-grass-jelly-shouldnt-come-out-of-a-can\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Grass jelly\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is made from the mesona herb and has a faintly bitter taste that prevents drinks from becoming cloyingly sweet. The smoke-colored grass jelly here is homemade, with a soft silky texture that no canned jelly can duplicate.\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.nepcafe.us/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nếp Cafe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is a coffee and brunch spot by day and a restaurant called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gemdining.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gem\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> by night. Vietnamese coffee is becoming more ubiquitous, but what about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://vietnamenu.com/vietnamese-food-ca-phe-trung.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cà phê trứng\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, egg coffee? Their egg coffee, originally from northern Vietnam, is not what I expected (thankfully there was no goopy yolk oozing in my coffee). Egg yolk is whipped with condensed milk into an airy froth. It tastes like liquid tiramisu.\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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},
"radiolab": {
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"reveal": {
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"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
"id": "science-friday",
"title": "Science Friday",
"info": "Science Friday is a weekly science talk show, broadcast live over public radio stations nationwide. Each week, the show focuses on science topics that are in the news and tries to bring an educated, balanced discussion to bear on the scientific issues at hand. Panels of expert guests join host Ira Flatow, a veteran science journalist, to discuss science and to take questions from listeners during the call-in portion of the program.",
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},
"snap-judgment": {
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