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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_24758,bayareabites_133874' label='Get a bite of Roasted Cauliflower and Dungeness crab at home']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cauliflower Delights\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I still think about the first Tacos Oscar taco I ever had. It was a charred broccoli and peanut salsa situation I devoured some years ago when the restaurant was still a pop-up that roamed around Oakland. The deliciously inventive combination is a signature of Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss, whose vegan tacos are never an afterthought or a concession to appease the Bay’s non-meat-eating diners. The duo behind the restaurant have a knack for making a star out of a vegetable some might otherwise pass up, pairing it with slaws and salsas that compliment rather than drench and hide.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cauliflower taco I had the other night at Tacos Oscar is a prime example. Cauliflower takes well to direct heat—it chars beautifully, its florets acquire a satisfying crisp while the stems sweeten and soften. On top of their handmade tortillas, Michel and Weiss dress the toasted cauliflower with a red pickled cabbage slaw, cilantro and warming salsa macha whose crushed peanuts add more texture than loud, peanut flavor. A satisfying taco with every bite. The fact that it’s vegan is a parenthetical. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dungeness Crab with Garlic Butter to Spare\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ever since crab season opened up this winter, I’ve been drooling over the Instagram feed of Chef Smelly, who prepares locally sourced, sustainably caught wild Dungeness crab. On a recent Sunday afternoon, I finally made a plan to check out his pop up, Smelly’s Creole and Soul Food, inside Au Lounge Oakland in Uptown. The photocopied menu you get at the door includes all kinds of delicious-sounding combos of crab, shrimp, beef and oysters. But my family of three was all about the crab. We ordered a whole dungeness à la carte drenched in chopped garlic blooming in butter, along with a side of the Creole-spiced fries—also dipped in melted garlic butter. We got our order to go, and the crab did not disappoint. Only, once home, I regretted we didn’t get the trademark garlic noodles that come with most of Smelly’s combos. (Truth be told, I was trying to save a few bucks too.) I quickly assembled a pot of noodles at home and dumped them in the left-over butter, garlic and crab scraps. Divine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B66dxk1hhk9/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’ve read reviews and heard about the long lines at Smelly’s, so I was relieved when we showed up to find only a half-filled bar and one person in line. But don’t let that fool you, we still ended up waiting more than an hour for a to-go order, not ideal when you got a hungry nine-year-old kid in tow after basketball practice. In the end, it was still worth the wait\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kelly Whalen, Senior Digital Video Producer, Arts & Culture\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='checkplease_11871' label='Catch Check Please! at Los Moles']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Mole Pipián for Brunch and Memories\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On weekends, there’s nothing I want more than a breakfast I can enjoy with intention. That Saturday morning meal is to be savored slowly, and the all-you-can-eat brunch buffet at Los Moles provides tenfold. The first non-negotiable item for me is a mug of their café de olla—coffee brewed with canela, chocolate, piloncillo and orange rinds. The spicy-sweet brew cuts the grogginess of any Friday night stupor and prepares your stomach for the feast ahead. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7d8UFep50i/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And while I have fever dreams about the entire spread—the giant bubbling pots of menudo and pozole, the seven-plus varieties of mole, the handmade corn tortillas, the vats of carne machaca and carnitas—the centerpiece of this Saturday morning tradition is their mole pipián. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Pale green and stewed with tender shredded chicken, Los Moles’ nutty, vibrant pipián made of roasted pepitas and seed varieties tantalizes. I recently learned that my great grandmother specialized in a mole pipián made from grinding toasted maíz, pepita, and sesame. And while the recipe was lost between generations, I hold on to that story with every bite I take of Los Moles’ pipián. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Lina Blanco, \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Digital Manager of Engagement, KQED Arts & Culture.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cauliflower Delights\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I still think about the first Tacos Oscar taco I ever had. It was a charred broccoli and peanut salsa situation I devoured some years ago when the restaurant was still a pop-up that roamed around Oakland. The deliciously inventive combination is a signature of Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss, whose vegan tacos are never an afterthought or a concession to appease the Bay’s non-meat-eating diners. The duo behind the restaurant have a knack for making a star out of a vegetable some might otherwise pass up, pairing it with slaws and salsas that compliment rather than drench and hide.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cauliflower taco I had the other night at Tacos Oscar is a prime example. Cauliflower takes well to direct heat—it chars beautifully, its florets acquire a satisfying crisp while the stems sweeten and soften. On top of their handmade tortillas, Michel and Weiss dress the toasted cauliflower with a red pickled cabbage slaw, cilantro and warming salsa macha whose crushed peanuts add more texture than loud, peanut flavor. A satisfying taco with every bite. The fact that it’s vegan is a parenthetical. —\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Dungeness Crab with Garlic Butter to Spare\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ever since crab season opened up this winter, I’ve been drooling over the Instagram feed of Chef Smelly, who prepares locally sourced, sustainably caught wild Dungeness crab. On a recent Sunday afternoon, I finally made a plan to check out his pop up, Smelly’s Creole and Soul Food, inside Au Lounge Oakland in Uptown. The photocopied menu you get at the door includes all kinds of delicious-sounding combos of crab, shrimp, beef and oysters. But my family of three was all about the crab. We ordered a whole dungeness à la carte drenched in chopped garlic blooming in butter, along with a side of the Creole-spiced fries—also dipped in melted garlic butter. We got our order to go, and the crab did not disappoint. Only, once home, I regretted we didn’t get the trademark garlic noodles that come with most of Smelly’s combos. (Truth be told, I was trying to save a few bucks too.) I quickly assembled a pot of noodles at home and dumped them in the left-over butter, garlic and crab scraps. Divine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cooking Beans is a Quiet Defiance of Our Convenience-Obsessed Culture",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I don’t know what took me so long to start cooking beans, but 2019 was the year I couldn’t stop. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’d enjoyed legumes of many different sizes and colors in my dining experiences, but aside from my trusted lentils, I never bothered to prepare beans at home, writing them off as too much work. Instead, I stocked cans of fava beans to make ful for breakfast and, on occasion, I’d buy canned white beans that served as non-perishable protein provisions rather than thoughtful meals. But last year, after cooking my first pot of beans, what seemed like a daunting task became a ritual that reframed my understanding of time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Beans seem as old as time itself. Found inside Aztec and ancient Egyptian tombs, the much-fabled bean is one of the oldest cultivated plants in the world. Over the course of tens of thousands of years, beans have acquired reputations both as sources of life and death (the latter may be due to the naturally occurring toxins in their undercooked form). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I hold a handful of beans these days, I often feel in awe of the history they contain. Like looking up at the stars in the night, beans make me feel both small and connected to something much bigger than I can grasp. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136101\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136101\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810.jpg\" alt=\"A few varieties of beans from Rancho Gordo's heirloom farm including pinto, cranberry and scarlet runners. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A few varieties from Rancho Gordo's heirloom bean farm including pinto, cranberry and scarlet runners. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My year of cooking beans was partially spurred by my friend Rebecca, who shares my love of a well balanced, home-cooked meal, and encouraged me to make them from scratch. I remember the ease with which she described soaking and making them now as I evangelize to others about how simple it really is. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I made my first pot of beans last summer from half a bag of cannellinis that I forgetfully left soaking in the fridge for over 24 hours. Beans are a forgiving food, so after I rinsed them (a controversial move: some like to cook them in the soaking water, but I prefer not to), I threw them in a large pot along with a good hit of olive oil, some sprigs of thyme, dried chili peppers and several smashed cloves of garlic. I stirred my pot and left it covered in intervals, tasting the broth for salt and flavor, and finally topping it off with a sliver of butter for a luxurious touch of fat. They were the best beans I’d ever had.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote align=right size=medium]\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like looking up at the stars in the night, beans make me feel both small and connected to something much bigger than I can grasp.[/pullquote]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A couple days later, before finishing the leftovers from that first pot, I subscribed to Napa heirloom bean farm Rancho Gordo’s very popular and often waitlisted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ranchogordo.com/products/the-rancho-gordo-bean-club?variant=19122325979232\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bean club\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Once my first shipment of six varieties of beans arrived, I spent the next few months cooking beans once a week, playing out every possibility I could think of with them. With the gorgeously spotted, dark purple scarlet runners, I pared down the broth so I could better enjoy their chew. The incredibly creamy texture of caballeros, a pearly white bean from Peru, paired well with toasted bread and a squeeze of lemon. I used \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/136084\">fish sauce\u003c/a> and pecorino rinds to add umami, and I threw in as many different combinations of herbs and leafy greens as I could imagine. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136100\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136100\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A.jpg\" alt=\"A pot full of cannellini beans with herbs and spices. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1487\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-160x124.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-800x620.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-768x595.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-1020x790.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-1200x929.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pot full of soaked cannellini beans with herbs and spices. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I share my beans or my love for them with others, the first response is always about how long they take to cook. I can’t fault people. Time has become a precious commodity, and same-day delivery has become a symbol of modernity. Recipes often list time above the ingredients, and those with shorter preparation and cooking times are highlighted for their efficiency. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_113243,bayareabites_59997,bayareabites_2568' label='Bean recipes to take your time with']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the truth is, time hasn’t changed—we have. For my part, I can’t name a single thing I’ve sacrificed in order to make time for my beloved legumes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cooking beans has made me wonder if time instead belongs in the ingredients list of a recipe instead of floating above it as a measure of duration. Two cups of beans, eight hours in water while we go to work, rest or tend to our lives. If these humble legumes have been here for some millennia, what's a few hours in a water bath while you do what you will?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I don’t know what took me so long to start cooking beans, but 2019 was the year I couldn’t stop. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’d enjoyed legumes of many different sizes and colors in my dining experiences, but aside from my trusted lentils, I never bothered to prepare beans at home, writing them off as too much work. Instead, I stocked cans of fava beans to make ful for breakfast and, on occasion, I’d buy canned white beans that served as non-perishable protein provisions rather than thoughtful meals. But last year, after cooking my first pot of beans, what seemed like a daunting task became a ritual that reframed my understanding of time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Beans seem as old as time itself. Found inside Aztec and ancient Egyptian tombs, the much-fabled bean is one of the oldest cultivated plants in the world. Over the course of tens of thousands of years, beans have acquired reputations both as sources of life and death (the latter may be due to the naturally occurring toxins in their undercooked form). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I hold a handful of beans these days, I often feel in awe of the history they contain. Like looking up at the stars in the night, beans make me feel both small and connected to something much bigger than I can grasp. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136101\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136101\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810.jpg\" alt=\"A few varieties of beans from Rancho Gordo's heirloom farm including pinto, cranberry and scarlet runners. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/428A8810-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A few varieties from Rancho Gordo's heirloom bean farm including pinto, cranberry and scarlet runners. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My year of cooking beans was partially spurred by my friend Rebecca, who shares my love of a well balanced, home-cooked meal, and encouraged me to make them from scratch. I remember the ease with which she described soaking and making them now as I evangelize to others about how simple it really is. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I made my first pot of beans last summer from half a bag of cannellinis that I forgetfully left soaking in the fridge for over 24 hours. Beans are a forgiving food, so after I rinsed them (a controversial move: some like to cook them in the soaking water, but I prefer not to), I threw them in a large pot along with a good hit of olive oil, some sprigs of thyme, dried chili peppers and several smashed cloves of garlic. I stirred my pot and left it covered in intervals, tasting the broth for salt and flavor, and finally topping it off with a sliver of butter for a luxurious touch of fat. They were the best beans I’d ever had.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A couple days later, before finishing the leftovers from that first pot, I subscribed to Napa heirloom bean farm Rancho Gordo’s very popular and often waitlisted \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ranchogordo.com/products/the-rancho-gordo-bean-club?variant=19122325979232\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bean club\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Once my first shipment of six varieties of beans arrived, I spent the next few months cooking beans once a week, playing out every possibility I could think of with them. With the gorgeously spotted, dark purple scarlet runners, I pared down the broth so I could better enjoy their chew. The incredibly creamy texture of caballeros, a pearly white bean from Peru, paired well with toasted bread and a squeeze of lemon. I used \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/136084\">fish sauce\u003c/a> and pecorino rinds to add umami, and I threw in as many different combinations of herbs and leafy greens as I could imagine. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136100\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136100\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A.jpg\" alt=\"A pot full of cannellini beans with herbs and spices. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1487\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-160x124.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-800x620.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-768x595.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-1020x790.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/EB74F5AF-5D2E-4EAA-A096-ECEEC6A31E0A-1200x929.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pot full of soaked cannellini beans with herbs and spices. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I share my beans or my love for them with others, the first response is always about how long they take to cook. I can’t fault people. Time has become a precious commodity, and same-day delivery has become a symbol of modernity. Recipes often list time above the ingredients, and those with shorter preparation and cooking times are highlighted for their efficiency. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the truth is, time hasn’t changed—we have. For my part, I can’t name a single thing I’ve sacrificed in order to make time for my beloved legumes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cooking beans has made me wonder if time instead belongs in the ingredients list of a recipe instead of floating above it as a measure of duration. Two cups of beans, eight hours in water while we go to work, rest or tend to our lives. If these humble legumes have been here for some millennia, what's a few hours in a water bath while you do what you will?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anchovies are suddenly everywhere in the Bay Area. This spring, Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, the duo behind State Bird Provisions, are set to open \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2020/01/state-bird-provisions-team-to-take-over-fillmore-s-fat-angel-space\">Bar Anchovy\u003c/a>, a cozy oyster bar with a focus on local anchovies just around the corner from their hit restaurant in the Fillmore District. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks ago at\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135820/flavors-worth-finding-winter-comfort-food-isnt-always-about-soup\"> MAMA Oakland\u003c/a>, my order of bread came with anchovies and butter—a much bolder offering than balsamic and olive oil. At Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/barsardinewine/\">Bar Sardine\u003c/a>, a nighttime pop-up at the Bartavelle Coffee & Wine Bar, anchovies make an appearance on sandwiches alongside the less salty and oilier sardine. And in summer, a tin of anchovies is a staple in my pantry; they pair well with the sweetness of Early Girl tomatoes and any soft, creamy cheese. Though imported anchovies are common in the Bay Area, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.fishwatch.gov/profiles/northern-anchovy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Northern anchovy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> found off the coast of California is designated as a sustainable fish by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Agency and available year round. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7D_51LhorM/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If whole fish isn’t your jam, Bay Area fish purveyors \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/montereyfishmarket/\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a>, which serves retail customers as well as restaurants, and Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/umamimart/\">Umami Mart\u003c/a> are selling a new San Francisco-made small batch fish sauce from the no-frills brand, California Fish Sauce. Made with sea salt and Monterey anchovies by Bay Area local Joe Phan, California Fish Sauce promises no dilution, artificial colors or flavors and a 80N rating, a measure of the nitrogen concentration in the sauce per liter. The nitrogen content is an indicator of protein—the higher the N rating, the higher quality, more complex and concentrated the fish sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B2FSEXogMNv/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There's also the Hayward-based \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/redboatfishsauce/\">Red Boat Fish Sauce\u003c/a> which was started in 2011 by Cuong Pham who emigrated from Vietnam to the Bay Area for college. Pham’s company fishes for black anchovies off the Vietnamese island of Phu Cuoc, famed for its tiny fish, and ferments them in sea salt for an entire year. The resulting fish sauce, measuring at 40N, is a favorite of savvy home chefs and restaurants like State Bird Provisions. Last year, the company also debuted a powdered salt version carrying the same flavors of their famed fish sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Slowly but surely, anchovies, long relegated to pizza toppings, are emerging from American culinary shadows. In fact, in Pham’s native Vietnam and neighboring Thailand and Laos, the small and salty fish are a core flavoring agent in many dishes. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next time you’re dining out, take heed of that inexplicable but tangible full bodied and aquatic saltiness to your dish. Chances are, it’s anchovy related. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anchovies are suddenly everywhere in the Bay Area. This spring, Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, the duo behind State Bird Provisions, are set to open \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2020/01/state-bird-provisions-team-to-take-over-fillmore-s-fat-angel-space\">Bar Anchovy\u003c/a>, a cozy oyster bar with a focus on local anchovies just around the corner from their hit restaurant in the Fillmore District. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A few weeks ago at\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135820/flavors-worth-finding-winter-comfort-food-isnt-always-about-soup\"> MAMA Oakland\u003c/a>, my order of bread came with anchovies and butter—a much bolder offering than balsamic and olive oil. At Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/barsardinewine/\">Bar Sardine\u003c/a>, a nighttime pop-up at the Bartavelle Coffee & Wine Bar, anchovies make an appearance on sandwiches alongside the less salty and oilier sardine. And in summer, a tin of anchovies is a staple in my pantry; they pair well with the sweetness of Early Girl tomatoes and any soft, creamy cheese. Though imported anchovies are common in the Bay Area, the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.fishwatch.gov/profiles/northern-anchovy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Northern anchovy\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> found off the coast of California is designated as a sustainable fish by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Agency and available year round. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There's also the Hayward-based \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/redboatfishsauce/\">Red Boat Fish Sauce\u003c/a> which was started in 2011 by Cuong Pham who emigrated from Vietnam to the Bay Area for college. Pham’s company fishes for black anchovies off the Vietnamese island of Phu Cuoc, famed for its tiny fish, and ferments them in sea salt for an entire year. The resulting fish sauce, measuring at 40N, is a favorite of savvy home chefs and restaurants like State Bird Provisions. Last year, the company also debuted a powdered salt version carrying the same flavors of their famed fish sauce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Slowly but surely, anchovies, long relegated to pizza toppings, are emerging from American culinary shadows. In fact, in Pham’s native Vietnam and neighboring Thailand and Laos, the small and salty fish are a core flavoring agent in many dishes. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next time you’re dining out, take heed of that inexplicable but tangible full bodied and aquatic saltiness to your dish. Chances are, it’s anchovy related. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134814,bayareabites_20347,bayareabites_115175' label='More dumplings, Italian Christmas memories and Nyum Bai']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Northern Chinese Dumplings at Yuanbao Jiaozi\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Dumplings are my happy food. I particularly love the Northern Chinese style of doughy, plump dumplings. You can feel the handiwork in each piece, hand-rolled and adorned with perfectly imperfect dimples. At Yuanbao Jiaozi, located in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset neighborhood, it’s fun to watch the ladies in the window working steadily and skillfully to create these ingot-shaped treasures. Each dumpling is boiled to order and delivered to your table from the vat of scalding water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom, who grew up in Taiwan, was delighted by Yuanbao Jiaozi’s unique offering of seafood dumplings during our dinner. Standouts included sole fish and shiitake mushrooms, sole fish and green pepper, as well as the shrimp and zucchini dumplings—all filling combinations I had never come across in my food expeditions in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can’t order dumplings without a side of noodle soup. Nothing like carb on carb! For this visit, I ordered the pickled Chinese cabbage and beef noodle soup, whose bright, acidic flavors and beefy broth complemented the dumplings’ more subtle profile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I love about Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings is that firm, doughy consistency. In Italy, this prized texture is described as “al dente.” In Taiwan, it’s referred to as “Q,”, pronounced like the letter, often used to describe the ideal \"toothiness\" of boba or stewed beef tendon. Well, Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings definitely have that “Q.” Dipped in a bit of the chili oil provided in jars at each table, with a steaming side of noodle soup—that’s pure comfort to me.—\u003cem>Vic Chin, Coordinating Producer, Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 985px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png\" alt=\"Pandoro, panettone's dry fruit free cousin.\" width=\"985\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png 985w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-160x166.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-800x832.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-768x798.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 985px) 100vw, 985px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pandoro, panettone's dried fruit free cousin. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Pandoro, a Satisfying Winter Dessert\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>As a child, I made the compromise of eating around the raisins and candied fruits of panettone. A holiday dessert tradition that spread from Italy to East Africa and South America, panettone’s tall, trapezoidal boxes hang like decorations on Christmas across many homes around the world. Lately, instead of leaving a trail of dried fruits on my plate, I opt for pandoro, a cousin to panettone that features a similarly egg-enriched, fermented dough without any interruptions from lifeless fruits. Finished off with a dusting of sugar on its distinct triangular ridges, pandoro is a sight to behold. (Some cut the bread horizontally and stack it to resemble a snowy Christmas tree.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pandoro and panettone’s appeal live in their airy, soft texture, which is achieved through the sweet bread’s patient rising period. Both breads pair well with coffee and tea, and absorb whipped mascarpone and other toppings especially well when toasted. Never a cloying dessert, pandoro is balanced in its sugar—a satisfying sweet that doesn’t leave you sluggish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>May it be through the local East African population or the region’s European inclinations, Bay Area grocery stores seem to always carry panettone and its different iterations from December into the new year. Some years back, I noticed Trader Joe’s offered a chocolate panettone. Though markedly sweeter, chocolate is much more acceptable than dried fruit in my opinion. One can also find the holiday sweet bread at various Eritrean and Ethiopian specialty food stores like Zion Market on Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue. Lucky for me, the variety means I never have to eat around raisins and candied oranges.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6i09QQBxXM/\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Cha La Pov at Nyum Bai\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Since its brick-and-mortar opening in 2018, Cambodian eatery Nyum Bai has become one of the most well reviewed restaurants in the Bay Area, collecting a Bib Gourmand pick from Michelin and a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Awards along the way. Even with this fanfare, chef Nite Yun’s restaurant, tucked in a corner of the complex across from Fruitvale BART station, continues to offer affordable and delightful dishes like cha la pov, a stir fried kabocha squash dish with ground chicken and eggs, topped with chrysanthemum and scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served with a bowl of rice, the plate featured a mix of ingredients that I hadn’t seen together. Yet it delivered a familiar joy—a balanced offering of starch and protein, lightly sweet but decidedly savory. I’m sometimes too lazy to cook kabocha at home because its shell can be more work than a softer squash, so I was happy to encounter the seasonally appropriate gourd at Nyum Bai. And though I can’t say I detected the chrysanthemum in the dish, the scallions provided a bright zing—both visually and in terms of taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The part of cha la pov I’m still thinking about is the ground chicken: clumped together by the egg, it provided a really satisfying bite. I’d never think to mix chicken and eggs in that way, but now I can’t help but think chicken is a great alternative to pork, and even a first choice as a flavor-absorbing, textured meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning, I ate the leftover rice and cha la pov for breakfast. Maybe it was my hunger or the rice and stir fry spending all night mingling in the same container, but it tasted even better.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I love about Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings is that firm, doughy consistency. In Italy, this prized texture is described as “al dente.” In Taiwan, it’s referred to as “Q,”, pronounced like the letter, often used to describe the ideal \"toothiness\" of boba or stewed beef tendon. Well, Yuanbao Jiaozi’s dumplings definitely have that “Q.” Dipped in a bit of the chili oil provided in jars at each table, with a steaming side of noodle soup—that’s pure comfort to me.—\u003cem>Vic Chin, Coordinating Producer, Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 985px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png\" alt=\"Pandoro, panettone's dry fruit free cousin.\" width=\"985\" height=\"1024\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro.png 985w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-160x166.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-800x832.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/pandoro-768x798.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 985px) 100vw, 985px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pandoro, panettone's dried fruit free cousin. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Pandoro, a Satisfying Winter Dessert\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>As a child, I made the compromise of eating around the raisins and candied fruits of panettone. A holiday dessert tradition that spread from Italy to East Africa and South America, panettone’s tall, trapezoidal boxes hang like decorations on Christmas across many homes around the world. Lately, instead of leaving a trail of dried fruits on my plate, I opt for pandoro, a cousin to panettone that features a similarly egg-enriched, fermented dough without any interruptions from lifeless fruits. Finished off with a dusting of sugar on its distinct triangular ridges, pandoro is a sight to behold. (Some cut the bread horizontally and stack it to resemble a snowy Christmas tree.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pandoro and panettone’s appeal live in their airy, soft texture, which is achieved through the sweet bread’s patient rising period. Both breads pair well with coffee and tea, and absorb whipped mascarpone and other toppings especially well when toasted. Never a cloying dessert, pandoro is balanced in its sugar—a satisfying sweet that doesn’t leave you sluggish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>May it be through the local East African population or the region’s European inclinations, Bay Area grocery stores seem to always carry panettone and its different iterations from December into the new year. Some years back, I noticed Trader Joe’s offered a chocolate panettone. Though markedly sweeter, chocolate is much more acceptable than dried fruit in my opinion. One can also find the holiday sweet bread at various Eritrean and Ethiopian specialty food stores like Zion Market on Oakland’s Telegraph Avenue. Lucky for me, the variety means I never have to eat around raisins and candied oranges.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, Food Reporter and Visual Arts Columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003ch2>Cha La Pov at Nyum Bai\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Since its brick-and-mortar opening in 2018, Cambodian eatery Nyum Bai has become one of the most well reviewed restaurants in the Bay Area, collecting a Bib Gourmand pick from Michelin and a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Awards along the way. Even with this fanfare, chef Nite Yun’s restaurant, tucked in a corner of the complex across from Fruitvale BART station, continues to offer affordable and delightful dishes like cha la pov, a stir fried kabocha squash dish with ground chicken and eggs, topped with chrysanthemum and scallions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served with a bowl of rice, the plate featured a mix of ingredients that I hadn’t seen together. Yet it delivered a familiar joy—a balanced offering of starch and protein, lightly sweet but decidedly savory. I’m sometimes too lazy to cook kabocha at home because its shell can be more work than a softer squash, so I was happy to encounter the seasonally appropriate gourd at Nyum Bai. And though I can’t say I detected the chrysanthemum in the dish, the scallions provided a bright zing—both visually and in terms of taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The part of cha la pov I’m still thinking about is the ground chicken: clumped together by the egg, it provided a really satisfying bite. I’d never think to mix chicken and eggs in that way, but now I can’t help but think chicken is a great alternative to pork, and even a first choice as a flavor-absorbing, textured meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning, I ate the leftover rice and cha la pov for breakfast. Maybe it was my hunger or the rice and stir fry spending all night mingling in the same container, but it tasted even better.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Five years since its founding, Oakland roastery Red Bay Coffee is making big moves with an expansion to Los Angeles this spring. Located in the city’s Jefferson Park neighborhood, Red Bay’s new roastery and coffee shop will lead the coffee company’s national expansion in 2020.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_117350,bayareabites_133282,bayareabites_130682' label='More coffee roasting in the Bay']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“L.A. makes sense because it is a gateway to the rest of the nation,” says founder Keba Konte. He notes that Los Angeles is experiencing a coffee rush with major coffee brands from across the nation opening up shop in the city. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Konte, a visual artist and community organizer who established his coffee career co-founding North Berkeley’s Guerilla Café in 2005 and San Francisco’s Chasing Lions Café in 2012 credits his early ventures with helping him clarify the vision for Red Bay. “It showed me the limitation of a coffee shop,” he explains. “Or better yet, it gave me an understanding of the potential in coffee roasting.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6TN9cFh9gS/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The level of infrastructure that it takes to be a coffee roaster, it almost demands that there's some level of scale involved,” Konte says of Red Bay’s growth. “I suppose we could've opened a roaster and supplied the Bay Area but the vision was always much larger.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2014, Konte founded Red Bay Coffee with a coffee stand in downtown Oakland and a public roastery in the Fruitvale which doubles as a community space, holding film screenings, concerts and markets for local vendors. “What we’ve done with the public roastery [in the Fruitvale] is the blueprint for what we'll be doing in Los Angeles on an even larger scale,” he says of the 11,000-square-foot building and lot Red Bay is in the process of purchasing. “We will have a performance venue, we will have a coffee shop and a factory all co-mingling together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136057\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136057\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg\" alt=\"A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood\" width=\"1920\" height=\"898\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-800x374.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-768x359.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1020x477.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1200x561.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood \u003ccite>(courtesy of Red Bay Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Backing Red Bay’s impressive expansion is a series A funding that’s raised $5 million with more coming. “That is a model of fundraising that is built around any business that is planning to scale large,” Konte says of the venture capital model. “We were able to identify and connect with capital that was also mission-driven and believes in what we want to do,” he adds. Valuing growth at a sustainable pace, Konte also notes the growth trajectory of is driven internally by him. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While also eyeing Philadelphia, Los Angeles’ appeal to Konte is also the opportunity to provide coffee, community space and employment opportunities for the diverse neighborhood of Jefferson Park. “Everyone is welcome to Red Bay Coffee. We hope everyone enjoys our coffee and the experiences that we provide,” he says, adding: “In particular, we're creating spaces and experiences and products that are culturally geared towards people of color, black people in particular.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“L.A. makes sense because it is a gateway to the rest of the nation,” says founder Keba Konte. He notes that Los Angeles is experiencing a coffee rush with major coffee brands from across the nation opening up shop in the city. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Konte, a visual artist and community organizer who established his coffee career co-founding North Berkeley’s Guerilla Café in 2005 and San Francisco’s Chasing Lions Café in 2012 credits his early ventures with helping him clarify the vision for Red Bay. “It showed me the limitation of a coffee shop,” he explains. “Or better yet, it gave me an understanding of the potential in coffee roasting.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The level of infrastructure that it takes to be a coffee roaster, it almost demands that there's some level of scale involved,” Konte says of Red Bay’s growth. “I suppose we could've opened a roaster and supplied the Bay Area but the vision was always much larger.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2014, Konte founded Red Bay Coffee with a coffee stand in downtown Oakland and a public roastery in the Fruitvale which doubles as a community space, holding film screenings, concerts and markets for local vendors. “What we’ve done with the public roastery [in the Fruitvale] is the blueprint for what we'll be doing in Los Angeles on an even larger scale,” he says of the 11,000-square-foot building and lot Red Bay is in the process of purchasing. “We will have a performance venue, we will have a coffee shop and a factory all co-mingling together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136057\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136057\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg\" alt=\"A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood\" width=\"1920\" height=\"898\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-800x374.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-768x359.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1020x477.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1200x561.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood \u003ccite>(courtesy of Red Bay Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Backing Red Bay’s impressive expansion is a series A funding that’s raised $5 million with more coming. “That is a model of fundraising that is built around any business that is planning to scale large,” Konte says of the venture capital model. “We were able to identify and connect with capital that was also mission-driven and believes in what we want to do,” he adds. Valuing growth at a sustainable pace, Konte also notes the growth trajectory of is driven internally by him. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While also eyeing Philadelphia, Los Angeles’ appeal to Konte is also the opportunity to provide coffee, community space and employment opportunities for the diverse neighborhood of Jefferson Park. “Everyone is welcome to Red Bay Coffee. We hope everyone enjoys our coffee and the experiences that we provide,” he says, adding: “In particular, we're creating spaces and experiences and products that are culturally geared towards people of color, black people in particular.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, KQED staffers share recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_49845,bayareabites_107772,bayareabites_96014' label='Get a taste of these flavors at Onigilly, Komaaj and at your local grocery store']\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tokyo Fish Market's Onigiri\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>By lunch, the selection of onigiri at Tokyo Fish Market in Berkeley is sparse, so I’ve made it a point to go in the morning. The first time I did, I was delighted by the sheer diversity of onigiri I had never seen before, including takana (a chopped and pickled mustard green), ume (salted, pickled plum) and okaka (a delicate smoked tuna). Last Friday, I deliberated these choices and ended up with shrimp tempura, my favorite, and takana. What sets Tokyo Fish Market’s onigiri apart from others is how well the rice is seasoned in a light rice vinegar with a faint saltiness. The shrimp tempura in particular is such a delight of textures and flavors—a satisfyingly crunchy seaweed wrap with pearly sushi rice and a protein treat in its center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By my math, one onigiri is a perfect snack, and two will hold you down for lunch. While at the market, I also grabbed a can of UCC coffee with milk from their well stocked refrigerated section. I’m an advocate of coffee as a social beverage more than a utilitarian one, but coffee in a can has an elegant appeal—especially when the can is so beautifully designed. UCC’s coffee was pleasantly milky while still delivering the rich taste I expected. I’ll certainly repeat some version of this market run in the near future.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, food reporter and visual arts columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Kuku Sabzi at Komaaj\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On a dreary Saturday morning, I found myself driving across town in pursuit of a dish that would make up for the physical distance between me and my family. Sometimes, you seek out food in order to feel a little closer to home. I found just that at Komaaj, a pop-up restaurant in North Berkeley’s Caffeinated Coffee, a new cafe that opened this spring, offering single-origin coffee beans from women farmers around the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136039\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136039\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669.jpg\" alt=\"Kuku Sabzi, an herb frittata, served with sumac labneh, pickled carrots and toasted flatbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Kuku Sabzi at Komaaj, served with sumac labneh, pickled carrots and toasted flatbread. \u003ccite>(Kyana Moghadam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Komaaj, the vision of chef Hanif Sadr, joined the cafe shortly after (the two businesses share the space). It offers regional dishes from Northern Iran, including maast labou (a Greek yogurt with roasted beets, basil, mint and sumac), as well as a saffron pastry made with rice flour and yogurt, and served with honey and rose petals. Komaaj also offers one of my favorites, baaghali ghatogh, a white bean stew with dill, radishes and a handful of herbs served with thick sangak bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd followed Komaaj’s journey from afar on Instagram, admiring its commitment to highlighting dishes that are often overshadowed by Iran's famous tahdig and kebabs. Herbs are life in Iranian cuisine, and at Komaaj they shine through in every dish. I ordered the herbiest, greenest option on the menu, kuku sabzi, a frittata that's one of my all-time favorites. It’s a staple of Iranian cooking, especially in the springtime. Chef Sadr presents it with sumac labneh, pickled vegetables and toasted flatbread. It's a beautiful dish, and for the few minutes that it lasted, it took me exactly where I needed to be. — \u003cem>Kyana Moghadam, podcast engagement producer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oren’s Hummus\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>A big group of colleagues and I were looking for a place to lunch without a reservation on a recent afternoon in downtown San Francisco, and Oren’s Hummus ended up being a tasty and accommodating choice for our nine-person party. The cute café, with its geometric, tiled floors and collection of mossy house plants, is perfect for family-style dining. We ordered the sampler of dips, an assortment of fluffy pureed eggplant (three different varieties!), spiced Moroccan carrots, juicy marinated beets and a thick, strained yogurt. We passed them around the table and compared notes on each dip, which was part of the fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B1Yw2meF-PX/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to its name, Oren’s Hummus has so many varieties of the famous chickpea-based dip. For my main, I got the hummus sabich, a big bowl of hummus that came with a combination of fried eggplant, potato, hard-boiled egg, cucumber, tomato, chopped pickles, amba sauce (a tart glaze made out of unripe mango) and fresh herbs. All cubed into tiny pieces, the fresh and cooked ingredients added lively texture to the creamy hummus and fluffy pita bread. The showstopper, though, was the beef and lamb kebab, which was tender and juicy, reminiscent of medium-rare meatballs that are a little crispy on the outside. I’ll definitely order that for my entrée when I go back to Oren’s.—\u003cem>Nastia Voynovskaya, music editor\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tokyo Fish Market's Onigiri\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>By lunch, the selection of onigiri at Tokyo Fish Market in Berkeley is sparse, so I’ve made it a point to go in the morning. The first time I did, I was delighted by the sheer diversity of onigiri I had never seen before, including takana (a chopped and pickled mustard green), ume (salted, pickled plum) and okaka (a delicate smoked tuna). Last Friday, I deliberated these choices and ended up with shrimp tempura, my favorite, and takana. What sets Tokyo Fish Market’s onigiri apart from others is how well the rice is seasoned in a light rice vinegar with a faint saltiness. The shrimp tempura in particular is such a delight of textures and flavors—a satisfyingly crunchy seaweed wrap with pearly sushi rice and a protein treat in its center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By my math, one onigiri is a perfect snack, and two will hold you down for lunch. While at the market, I also grabbed a can of UCC coffee with milk from their well stocked refrigerated section. I’m an advocate of coffee as a social beverage more than a utilitarian one, but coffee in a can has an elegant appeal—especially when the can is so beautifully designed. UCC’s coffee was pleasantly milky while still delivering the rich taste I expected. I’ll certainly repeat some version of this market run in the near future.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus, food reporter and visual arts columnist\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Kuku Sabzi at Komaaj\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On a dreary Saturday morning, I found myself driving across town in pursuit of a dish that would make up for the physical distance between me and my family. Sometimes, you seek out food in order to feel a little closer to home. I found just that at Komaaj, a pop-up restaurant in North Berkeley’s Caffeinated Coffee, a new cafe that opened this spring, offering single-origin coffee beans from women farmers around the globe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136039\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136039\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669.jpg\" alt=\"Kuku Sabzi, an herb frittata, served with sumac labneh, pickled carrots and toasted flatbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_0669-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Kuku Sabzi at Komaaj, served with sumac labneh, pickled carrots and toasted flatbread. \u003ccite>(Kyana Moghadam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Komaaj, the vision of chef Hanif Sadr, joined the cafe shortly after (the two businesses share the space). It offers regional dishes from Northern Iran, including maast labou (a Greek yogurt with roasted beets, basil, mint and sumac), as well as a saffron pastry made with rice flour and yogurt, and served with honey and rose petals. Komaaj also offers one of my favorites, baaghali ghatogh, a white bean stew with dill, radishes and a handful of herbs served with thick sangak bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to its name, Oren’s Hummus has so many varieties of the famous chickpea-based dip. For my main, I got the hummus sabich, a big bowl of hummus that came with a combination of fried eggplant, potato, hard-boiled egg, cucumber, tomato, chopped pickles, amba sauce (a tart glaze made out of unripe mango) and fresh herbs. All cubed into tiny pieces, the fresh and cooked ingredients added lively texture to the creamy hummus and fluffy pita bread. The showstopper, though, was the beef and lamb kebab, which was tender and juicy, reminiscent of medium-rare meatballs that are a little crispy on the outside. I’ll definitely order that for my entrée when I go back to Oren’s.—\u003cem>Nastia Voynovskaya, music editor\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence",
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"content": "\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_127083,bayareabites_133040' label='More pop-ups around the Bay']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BybOwFYB9y2/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"bayareabites_135485,checkplease_20198\" label='Gay 4 U is Reborn and Aburaya is on Check, Please!']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6DTBmmBmFk/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "As the Bay Area pop-up scene grows, pop-up chefs and restaurant owners make accommodations for a new phase in the ephemeral dining trend. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map",
"title": "5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote]To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Jorge Ayllon']\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Ana Morales']\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"medium\" ids=\"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Flavors Worth Finding: Winter Comfort Food Isn't Always About Soup",
"title": "Flavors Worth Finding: Winter Comfort Food Isn't Always About Soup",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Dining in the Bay Area can mean lots of optimized salad bars and grain bowls inhaled between meetings. Here, the staff at KQED Arts & Culture shares recent meals that demanded we slow down and enjoy them thoroughly.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_133626,news_10966514,bayareabites_78315' label='More servings of silog, malfatti, and Olivier salad']\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Gateway Kitchen’s Crispy Chicken\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cold day food cravings don't always call for soup—sometimes you want proper texture. So o\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">n a recent chilly evening, my boyfriend and I headed to a small Filipino restaurant in Daly City called\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/gateway-kitchen-daly-city\"> Gateway Kitchen\u003c/a>. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Its menu is as efficiently sized as its interior, with silog, a hearty, classic breakfast dish, as the main offering. Each variety comes with a different protein, including crispy chicken, longanisa, bacon, Hong Kong-style pork chops and more. We chose a crispy chicken silog and a longanisa silog with a side of bacon, and each came with a heaping mound of garlic rice and pineapple. (We also added eggs to both orders.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135823\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135823\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1.jpg\" alt=\"Gateway Kitchen's longanisa silog served with a side of bacon and garlic rice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gateway Kitchen's longanisa silog served with a side of bacon and garlic rice. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Gateway Kitchen, when you tap the surface of the chicken with a fork, the crispy, hard shell taps back. Imagine how satisfying it is to hear the crispy crunch when your fork and knife first breach that umami shell—yep, it was just as good as you’re thinking! The fatty longanisa and crispy bacon provided a great texture and flavor contrast to the garlic rice, especially once we broke the yolk and mixed it all together.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yes, I’m still thinking about that crispy chicken over a week later!—\u003cem>Grace Cheung\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>MAMA Oakland's Prix-Fixe Menu\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After a trusted recommendation, I dragged along two friends to try \u003ca href=\"https://mama-oakland.com/\">MAMA Oakland\u003c/a>’s fairly affordable $30 three-course dinner. The restaurant opened this summer amid a stretch of eateries and bars on Grand Avenue, and its seasonal prix-fixe offerings make it a standout—and a hard reservation to snag on a Friday night. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Luckily, MAMA saves room for walk-ins, so my group and I settled at a cozy corner table with prime people-watching views to contemplate the night’s choices. Roasted mushroom soup or fennel-and-blood orange salad with toasted walnuts for the first course? Spaghetti with meatballs or malfatti with roasted vegetables for the second? And finally, our dessert options were a pumpkin cheesecake with rosemary graham crust or a spiced persimmon upside-down cake.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B5GFpksBapy/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Between the three of us, we were able to order every dish. But I’m here to tell you about the malfatti: the delicate spinach-and-cheese dumplings sat on a butternut squash purée, leaning on roasted root vegetables, all glistening in brown butter and topped with crispy sage. It was a thoughtful and delicious dish—so good that nothing was left on the plate by the end.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The rest of the meal was also carefully prepared and lovely, and not just for its price. Also noteworthy is MAMA’s wine list, which is much longer than its food menu. (The restaurant’s owners first started with the wine bar Bay Grape, just a block west on Grand.) I’m going back to MAMA, and probably very soon.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Homemade Belarusian Classics on Thanksgiving\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The best thing I ate recently was a Thanksgiving meal at my mom’s place in Hayward, which featured a mix of American dishes like roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy and a delicious truffle salt stuffing, and a couple of classics on the table from Belarus. My mom brought back our childhood favorites, including Russian-style deviled eggs made with mushrooms and fresh dill, and the rich Olivier salad, which is eaten across many former-Soviet nations. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like many other salads from the region, Olivier is dressed in mayonnaise and resembles a potato salad but with more “stuff” in it: cubed potatoes, carrots, peas, mushrooms, eggs and a cured meat of some kind, usually ham. I had this dish at every family gathering growing up, but nowadays I eat it on rare occasions since it’s more laborious to put together than your average green salad. (If I'm craving it I head to San Francisco's \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.newworldmarketsf.com/gallery\">New World Market\u003c/a> to get my fix.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135825\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135825\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871.jpeg\" alt=\"The spread at Masha Pershay's mother's house on Thanksgiving.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-900x1200.jpeg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The spread at Masha Pershay's mother's house on Thanksgiving. \u003ccite>(Oxana Sapronova)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For dessert, I was reunited with another childhood favorite, medovik, a Slavic honey cake made by my sister’s friend, who’s from Kazakhstan. Made from several thin layers of soft, honey-sweetened sponge cake with sour cream in between, the velvety, soft texture and balanced sweetness of medovik was the best way round out the holiday meal.—\u003cem>Masha Pershay\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "KQED Arts & Culture writers recommend Filipino silog, Italian malfatti and Olivier salad from the former Soviet Union. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Gateway Kitchen’s Crispy Chicken\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cold day food cravings don't always call for soup—sometimes you want proper texture. So o\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">n a recent chilly evening, my boyfriend and I headed to a small Filipino restaurant in Daly City called\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/gateway-kitchen-daly-city\"> Gateway Kitchen\u003c/a>. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Its menu is as efficiently sized as its interior, with silog, a hearty, classic breakfast dish, as the main offering. Each variety comes with a different protein, including crispy chicken, longanisa, bacon, Hong Kong-style pork chops and more. We chose a crispy chicken silog and a longanisa silog with a side of bacon, and each came with a heaping mound of garlic rice and pineapple. (We also added eggs to both orders.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135823\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135823\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1.jpg\" alt=\"Gateway Kitchen's longanisa silog served with a side of bacon and garlic rice.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/gatewaykitche_1-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gateway Kitchen's longanisa silog served with a side of bacon and garlic rice. \u003ccite>(Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At Gateway Kitchen, when you tap the surface of the chicken with a fork, the crispy, hard shell taps back. Imagine how satisfying it is to hear the crispy crunch when your fork and knife first breach that umami shell—yep, it was just as good as you’re thinking! The fatty longanisa and crispy bacon provided a great texture and flavor contrast to the garlic rice, especially once we broke the yolk and mixed it all together.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yes, I’m still thinking about that crispy chicken over a week later!—\u003cem>Grace Cheung\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>MAMA Oakland's Prix-Fixe Menu\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After a trusted recommendation, I dragged along two friends to try \u003ca href=\"https://mama-oakland.com/\">MAMA Oakland\u003c/a>’s fairly affordable $30 three-course dinner. The restaurant opened this summer amid a stretch of eateries and bars on Grand Avenue, and its seasonal prix-fixe offerings make it a standout—and a hard reservation to snag on a Friday night. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Luckily, MAMA saves room for walk-ins, so my group and I settled at a cozy corner table with prime people-watching views to contemplate the night’s choices. Roasted mushroom soup or fennel-and-blood orange salad with toasted walnuts for the first course? Spaghetti with meatballs or malfatti with roasted vegetables for the second? And finally, our dessert options were a pumpkin cheesecake with rosemary graham crust or a spiced persimmon upside-down cake.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Between the three of us, we were able to order every dish. But I’m here to tell you about the malfatti: the delicate spinach-and-cheese dumplings sat on a butternut squash purée, leaning on roasted root vegetables, all glistening in brown butter and topped with crispy sage. It was a thoughtful and delicious dish—so good that nothing was left on the plate by the end.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The rest of the meal was also carefully prepared and lovely, and not just for its price. Also noteworthy is MAMA’s wine list, which is much longer than its food menu. (The restaurant’s owners first started with the wine bar Bay Grape, just a block west on Grand.) I’m going back to MAMA, and probably very soon.—\u003cem>Ruth Gebreyesus\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Homemade Belarusian Classics on Thanksgiving\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The best thing I ate recently was a Thanksgiving meal at my mom’s place in Hayward, which featured a mix of American dishes like roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy and a delicious truffle salt stuffing, and a couple of classics on the table from Belarus. My mom brought back our childhood favorites, including Russian-style deviled eggs made with mushrooms and fresh dill, and the rich Olivier salad, which is eaten across many former-Soviet nations. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like many other salads from the region, Olivier is dressed in mayonnaise and resembles a potato salad but with more “stuff” in it: cubed potatoes, carrots, peas, mushrooms, eggs and a cured meat of some kind, usually ham. I had this dish at every family gathering growing up, but nowadays I eat it on rare occasions since it’s more laborious to put together than your average green salad. (If I'm craving it I head to San Francisco's \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.newworldmarketsf.com/gallery\">New World Market\u003c/a> to get my fix.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135825\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135825\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871.jpeg\" alt=\"The spread at Masha Pershay's mother's house on Thanksgiving.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/IMG_5871-900x1200.jpeg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The spread at Masha Pershay's mother's house on Thanksgiving. \u003ccite>(Oxana Sapronova)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For dessert, I was reunited with another childhood favorite, medovik, a Slavic honey cake made by my sister’s friend, who’s from Kazakhstan. Made from several thin layers of soft, honey-sweetened sponge cake with sour cream in between, the velvety, soft texture and balanced sweetness of medovik was the best way round out the holiday meal.—\u003cem>Masha Pershay\u003c/em>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "At Ruth’s Buka, Diners Find Jollof, Egusi and Community",
"title": "At Ruth’s Buka, Diners Find Jollof, Egusi and Community",
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"content": "\u003cp>During the hour and change that I was at \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ruths-buka-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Ruth’s Buka\u003c/a> last Wednesday, not a single customer looked at a menu when they ordered their food. Either they knew their order by heart or Sunny Ogbe, Ruth Ogbe’s husband who helps manage the family-run Nigerian restaurant, knew exactly what the customers came in to eat.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_119567' label='Diverse cuisines from the continent of Africa']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those not as familiar with the menu at Ruth’s Buka, you’d see a list of specialties from all over Nigeria starting with the crowd-pleasing Jollof rice to a variety of stews from Egusi to bitter leaf and pepper soup featuring your choice of fish, chicken, beef or goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened five years ago in October of 2015, Ruth’s Buka sits on the corner of a quiet stretch of Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland in a neighborhood of homes, mosques and churches. When Ogbe first moved to Oakland from Lagos in 1998, she couldn’t find any Nigerian restaurants to eat at when she didn’t want to cook, so she eventually opened her own to fill that hole. “I always had it in my mind like when I'm ready, that's what I'm gonna do,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135802\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135802\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Ogbe's mother, Maria Ejuwa, prepares Jollof rice at the family run Nigerian restaurant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Ogbe's mother, Maria Ejuwa, prepares Jollof rice at the family run Nigerian restaurant. \u003ccite>(Omeez Jones)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though Ogbe’s restaurant is only one of three Nigerian restaurants in the East Bay (Miliki is nearby in the Laurel and Golden Safari in neighboring Hayward), it doesn’t necessarily account for catering-only and informal kitchens that folks run out of their homes in the area. In fact, that’s how Ogbe got her start. First cooking out of her home and later running a catering business out of a commercial kitchen in Oakland, she has served at weddings and parties for the Nigerian and larger West African community in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Ruth’s Buka, she’s had the autonomy of space — a kitchen all her own where she can maintain her catering business while her customers can dine in and socialize in the front.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Nigeria, a \u003cem>buka\u003c/em> refers to casual dining spots that function as social hubs as much as eateries, often spilling out of open-view kitchens into the street. At bukas, the menu is a visual one — pots simmer with different specialties from across the nation and folks make combinations as they please from what is in front of them. Ogbe carries this same spirit of regional diversity at her buka, providing diners with dishes from Nigeria’s delta region, as well as Igbo, Hausa and Yoruba specialties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135799\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135799\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"A Jollof rice and plantain plate with tender greens and a fish to top it all of at Ruth's Buka.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Jollof rice and plantain plate with tender greens and a fish to top it all of at Ruth's Buka. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To bring these flavors of Nigerian cuisine to Oakland, Ogbe has vendors back in Nigeria who ship her ingredients over here. “Basically, all our ingredients come from different parts of Nigeria because we serve [food from] different parts of Nigeria not just one culture,” she says. Ogbe is also buying and breaking down whole cows and goats for her restaurant and catering customers. “We eat it fresh back home not like here where everything is frozen,” she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unsurprisingly, the most popular item at Ruth’s Buka is the West African staple, Jollof rice. Made across Nigeria, Ghana, and Senegal, the matter of who makes the best version of the tomato-laden rice dish is \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2016/08/28/491699623/jollof-rice-wars\">an active topic of debate\u003c/a> among West Africans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruth’s version is coated with spice bloomed oil that leaves your mouth warm and wanting more. Asked how she makes her version of Jollof, Ogbe says it’s not that hard. “It's like watching new born babies for them not to choke. That's the same way you cook Jollof rice,” she explains. “You have to care for it a lot so that it doesn't burn. For the right texture, you can't put too much water [or] too much seasoning. You just have to monitor it. Baby it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135804\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135804\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Ogbe's daughter, Deborah, helps a customer at the family run Oakland restaurant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Ogbe's daughter, Deborah, helps a customer at the family run Oakland restaurant. \u003ccite>(Omeez Jones)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sitting at Ruth’s Buka and watching neighbors and customers stopping in, it’s easy to start wondering about the role and format of a restaurant — how restaurants can fulfill the homesick cravings of a diaspora and serve as an anchor for a neighborhood. Since much of our dining experience has been standardized, from menu hierarchies to the increasingly ubiquitous “bowl” format, Ruth’s Buka stands out for its commitment to staying true to its Nigerian roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of following American formalities of dining, Ogbe and her family welcome their customers with an inviting warmth typical of family-run eateries.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>During the hour and change that I was at \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/ruths-buka-oakland-2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Ruth’s Buka\u003c/a> last Wednesday, not a single customer looked at a menu when they ordered their food. Either they knew their order by heart or Sunny Ogbe, Ruth Ogbe’s husband who helps manage the family-run Nigerian restaurant, knew exactly what the customers came in to eat.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those not as familiar with the menu at Ruth’s Buka, you’d see a list of specialties from all over Nigeria starting with the crowd-pleasing Jollof rice to a variety of stews from Egusi to bitter leaf and pepper soup featuring your choice of fish, chicken, beef or goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened five years ago in October of 2015, Ruth’s Buka sits on the corner of a quiet stretch of Foothill Boulevard in East Oakland in a neighborhood of homes, mosques and churches. When Ogbe first moved to Oakland from Lagos in 1998, she couldn’t find any Nigerian restaurants to eat at when she didn’t want to cook, so she eventually opened her own to fill that hole. “I always had it in my mind like when I'm ready, that's what I'm gonna do,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135802\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135802\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Ogbe's mother, Maria Ejuwa, prepares Jollof rice at the family run Nigerian restaurant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_1-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Ogbe's mother, Maria Ejuwa, prepares Jollof rice at the family run Nigerian restaurant. \u003ccite>(Omeez Jones)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though Ogbe’s restaurant is only one of three Nigerian restaurants in the East Bay (Miliki is nearby in the Laurel and Golden Safari in neighboring Hayward), it doesn’t necessarily account for catering-only and informal kitchens that folks run out of their homes in the area. In fact, that’s how Ogbe got her start. First cooking out of her home and later running a catering business out of a commercial kitchen in Oakland, she has served at weddings and parties for the Nigerian and larger West African community in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Ruth’s Buka, she’s had the autonomy of space — a kitchen all her own where she can maintain her catering business while her customers can dine in and socialize in the front.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Nigeria, a \u003cem>buka\u003c/em> refers to casual dining spots that function as social hubs as much as eateries, often spilling out of open-view kitchens into the street. At bukas, the menu is a visual one — pots simmer with different specialties from across the nation and folks make combinations as they please from what is in front of them. Ogbe carries this same spirit of regional diversity at her buka, providing diners with dishes from Nigeria’s delta region, as well as Igbo, Hausa and Yoruba specialties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135799\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135799\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"A Jollof rice and plantain plate with tender greens and a fish to top it all of at Ruth's Buka.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_2-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Jollof rice and plantain plate with tender greens and a fish to top it all of at Ruth's Buka. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To bring these flavors of Nigerian cuisine to Oakland, Ogbe has vendors back in Nigeria who ship her ingredients over here. “Basically, all our ingredients come from different parts of Nigeria because we serve [food from] different parts of Nigeria not just one culture,” she says. Ogbe is also buying and breaking down whole cows and goats for her restaurant and catering customers. “We eat it fresh back home not like here where everything is frozen,” she explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unsurprisingly, the most popular item at Ruth’s Buka is the West African staple, Jollof rice. Made across Nigeria, Ghana, and Senegal, the matter of who makes the best version of the tomato-laden rice dish is \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2016/08/28/491699623/jollof-rice-wars\">an active topic of debate\u003c/a> among West Africans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruth’s version is coated with spice bloomed oil that leaves your mouth warm and wanting more. Asked how she makes her version of Jollof, Ogbe says it’s not that hard. “It's like watching new born babies for them not to choke. That's the same way you cook Jollof rice,” she explains. “You have to care for it a lot so that it doesn't burn. For the right texture, you can't put too much water [or] too much seasoning. You just have to monitor it. Baby it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135804\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135804\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth Ogbe's daughter, Deborah, helps a customer at the family run Oakland restaurant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/ruthsbuka_4_2-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Ogbe's daughter, Deborah, helps a customer at the family run Oakland restaurant. \u003ccite>(Omeez Jones)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sitting at Ruth’s Buka and watching neighbors and customers stopping in, it’s easy to start wondering about the role and format of a restaurant — how restaurants can fulfill the homesick cravings of a diaspora and serve as an anchor for a neighborhood. Since much of our dining experience has been standardized, from menu hierarchies to the increasingly ubiquitous “bowl” format, Ruth’s Buka stands out for its commitment to staying true to its Nigerian roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of following American formalities of dining, Ogbe and her family welcome their customers with an inviting warmth typical of family-run eateries.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Kon-Tiki's New Bar and Restaurant Promises 'American Tropical' Fantasy",
"title": "The Kon-Tiki's New Bar and Restaurant Promises 'American Tropical' Fantasy",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Coming early next year to the former Fauna and Flora spaces in the historic Oakland Floral Depot building are two bars and a restaurant by the team behind The Kon-Tiki. Christ Aivaliotis and Matt Regan, the duo behind the Oakland tiki bar, are expanding just a few blocks away from their first venture. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_112022,news_11755932' label='More on Tiki Bars']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Since it’s two spaces, we are going to turn Fauna into a Tiki bar, sort of an extension of The Kon-Tiki for the people who make it to this corridor to see a show or for First Friday.” Aivaliotis says. Featuring an abbreviated menu of their flagship location, the bar will be named The Kon-Tiki Room at Palmetto, Palmetto being the restaurant that’ll take over the former Flora space. The restaurant will have its own separate bar and a food menu that Aivaliotis calls “classic Americana with a steakhouse feeling,” which will be headed by chef Manny Bonilla of The Kon-Tiki. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aivaliotis, a former bar manager at Flora, is shaping Palmetto’s bar program after what he calls the “canon of cocktails codified after prohibition.” “Those cocktails made with fresh juices and the best spirits that you could find,” he explains. “And we’ll do steakhouse martinis and Manhattans.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Kon-Tiki team hopes to open both spaces around late January next year barring any permit issues and the cosmetic fixes that’ll reflect the duo’s somewhat divergent and miscellaneous inspiration points. Aivaliotis and Reagan mentioned aesthetics ranging from American tropical and Miami pastels to “a place where Indiana Jones would be fanning himself off or something,” says Aivaliotis. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A volcano bowl at The Kon Tiki whose owners are opening two new bars in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Tarik Kazaleh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In an era where nostalgia is a crux for consumption, it’s interesting to consider who exactly will get to be wistfully nostalgic in this space. Whether it’s about Indiana Jones and his adventures or within fantasies of Polynesian island life, the kitchy aesthetics of tiki hold \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://openspace.sfmoma.org/2017/05/abolish-the-tiki-bar/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">insidious\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> origins. Tiki bars, which have had a long standing presence in the Bay Area, have enjoyed a resurgence as of late since their 1930s debut and their 1960s, post-World War II heyday. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For us, it was really important to not be trying to project some sort of fantasia of cultural appropriation that came on the heels of colonialism,” Avialiotis says. “It was really important to think about our point of reference being the tiki bar itself. That it was a cultural phenomenon that is specifically American that did draw on all these cultures in a way that was problematic. So towards that end, we tried to source art that made you think of tiki but not any sort of specific Polynesian place.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Their food menu is also a place Avialiotis points to as different than the more problematic versions of tiki bars where Chinese food is served under a loose appropriative “Asian” umbrella. “What we wanted to do to differentiate ourselves was to create a food menu that spoke to being a relevant restaurant,” he explains “Thinking about how our meat is sourced, what vegetables are in season and how are they prepared.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having said all that, Avialiotis distinguishes The Kon-Tiki Room at Palmetto from the original Kon-Tiki as more nautical than tropical and says, “The idea will be that you’re stepping off of a boat into a little shanty town and you’re just drinking booch at the local bar at the shanty town.” While it’ll be challenging to turn a glimmering art deco building into a “shanty town”, equally as troublesome is that intention in the first place. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to its owners, the Kon-Tiki so far has been well-received by Oakland residents and issues of around tiki’s less palatable origins have been limited to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/letters-of-the-week-our-readers-chime-in-on-last-weeks-issue/Content?oid=13456547\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a letter to the editor\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at the\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> East Bay Express\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, specifically regarding two alcoholic drinks named “Virgin’s Downfall” and “Virgin’s Suicide” at the Kon-Tiki. “An important distinction that gets overlooked is there’s an apostrophe,” Avialiotis explains, “It’s not sacrificing a virgin. It’s the thing that a virgin is sacrificing. So it’s sort of a stupid wordplay. It’s not the downfall because the virgin is thrown in the volcano, it’s what the virgin has given up.” Reagan also adds that virgin is not a gendered term but it’s hard to imagine those drink names existing without ire at non-tiki menus in town. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Am I going to put a drink with the name virgin [and] apostrophe “s” on it at the new restaurant?” Avialiotis asks. “Probably not.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The team behind The Kon-Tiki plans to transform the former Fauna and Flora spaces into a new restaurant that is ‘more nautical than tropical.’\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Coming early next year to the former Fauna and Flora spaces in the historic Oakland Floral Depot building are two bars and a restaurant by the team behind The Kon-Tiki. Christ Aivaliotis and Matt Regan, the duo behind the Oakland tiki bar, are expanding just a few blocks away from their first venture. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Since it’s two spaces, we are going to turn Fauna into a Tiki bar, sort of an extension of The Kon-Tiki for the people who make it to this corridor to see a show or for First Friday.” Aivaliotis says. Featuring an abbreviated menu of their flagship location, the bar will be named The Kon-Tiki Room at Palmetto, Palmetto being the restaurant that’ll take over the former Flora space. The restaurant will have its own separate bar and a food menu that Aivaliotis calls “classic Americana with a steakhouse feeling,” which will be headed by chef Manny Bonilla of The Kon-Tiki. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aivaliotis, a former bar manager at Flora, is shaping Palmetto’s bar program after what he calls the “canon of cocktails codified after prohibition.” “Those cocktails made with fresh juices and the best spirits that you could find,” he explains. “And we’ll do steakhouse martinis and Manhattans.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Kon-Tiki team hopes to open both spaces around late January next year barring any permit issues and the cosmetic fixes that’ll reflect the duo’s somewhat divergent and miscellaneous inspiration points. Aivaliotis and Reagan mentioned aesthetics ranging from American tropical and Miami pastels to “a place where Indiana Jones would be fanning himself off or something,” says Aivaliotis. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Kon-Tiki-Cocktails-volcano-bowl-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A volcano bowl at The Kon Tiki whose owners are opening two new bars in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Tarik Kazaleh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In an era where nostalgia is a crux for consumption, it’s interesting to consider who exactly will get to be wistfully nostalgic in this space. Whether it’s about Indiana Jones and his adventures or within fantasies of Polynesian island life, the kitchy aesthetics of tiki hold \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://openspace.sfmoma.org/2017/05/abolish-the-tiki-bar/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">insidious\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> origins. Tiki bars, which have had a long standing presence in the Bay Area, have enjoyed a resurgence as of late since their 1930s debut and their 1960s, post-World War II heyday. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For us, it was really important to not be trying to project some sort of fantasia of cultural appropriation that came on the heels of colonialism,” Avialiotis says. “It was really important to think about our point of reference being the tiki bar itself. That it was a cultural phenomenon that is specifically American that did draw on all these cultures in a way that was problematic. So towards that end, we tried to source art that made you think of tiki but not any sort of specific Polynesian place.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Their food menu is also a place Avialiotis points to as different than the more problematic versions of tiki bars where Chinese food is served under a loose appropriative “Asian” umbrella. “What we wanted to do to differentiate ourselves was to create a food menu that spoke to being a relevant restaurant,” he explains “Thinking about how our meat is sourced, what vegetables are in season and how are they prepared.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Having said all that, Avialiotis distinguishes The Kon-Tiki Room at Palmetto from the original Kon-Tiki as more nautical than tropical and says, “The idea will be that you’re stepping off of a boat into a little shanty town and you’re just drinking booch at the local bar at the shanty town.” While it’ll be challenging to turn a glimmering art deco building into a “shanty town”, equally as troublesome is that intention in the first place. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">According to its owners, the Kon-Tiki so far has been well-received by Oakland residents and issues of around tiki’s less palatable origins have been limited to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/letters-of-the-week-our-readers-chime-in-on-last-weeks-issue/Content?oid=13456547\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a letter to the editor\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at the\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> East Bay Express\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, specifically regarding two alcoholic drinks named “Virgin’s Downfall” and “Virgin’s Suicide” at the Kon-Tiki. “An important distinction that gets overlooked is there’s an apostrophe,” Avialiotis explains, “It’s not sacrificing a virgin. It’s the thing that a virgin is sacrificing. So it’s sort of a stupid wordplay. It’s not the downfall because the virgin is thrown in the volcano, it’s what the virgin has given up.” Reagan also adds that virgin is not a gendered term but it’s hard to imagine those drink names existing without ire at non-tiki menus in town. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Am I going to put a drink with the name virgin [and] apostrophe “s” on it at the new restaurant?” Avialiotis asks. “Probably not.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Biscuit donuts might be one of the greatest dessert hacks of all time! Grab your favorite refrigerated tube of biscuit dough from the store. Yes, the ones you have to smack against your counter to pop open!\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='holiday-recipes' num='2' label='More Holiday Recipes']\u003cbr>\nI highly recommend classic Pillsbury Grands! Flakey Layered Biscuit Dough and avoid anything that’s described as “homestyle”. The layered biscuit doughs allow for a smoother donut texture after frying. One thing to keep in mind is that the texture of biscuit donuts are naturally more dense and slightly chewier than your typical homemade donut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fry up the individual biscuit rounds until they’re golden brown and cooked through. You can also roll out the biscuit dough just slightly and cut out mini donut holes using a small cookie cutter or the tip of a large piping tip. The mini donut holes will cook up in no time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decorating donuts also make for an excellent holiday party activity! These biscuit donuts can be fried in advance and kept in an airtight container until ready to glaze and decorate later. Right before you’re about to decorate, whisk together the powdered sugar, peppermint extract, and milk until you have your desired consistency. I prefer a relatively thick glaze to hold up to the holiday sprinkles and candies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sprinkles and peppermint candies will keep well on the donuts for a few hours but may have a tendency to melt after about a day… if your donuts last that long!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Peppermint Biscuit Donuts\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes 8 large donuts\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1371\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-768x548.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-1200x857.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decorating donuts also make for an excellent holiday party activity \u003ccite>(Kristina Cho/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ingredients:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 tube of biscuit dough\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Canola oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ¼ cup powdered sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ tsp peppermint extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pinch of salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1-2 tbsp milk\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For the topping:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Crush peppermint candies\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Holiday Sprinkles\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Instructions:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Heat canola oil in a pot to 360 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove biscuit dough from the tube. If you want to make mini donuts, roll out the biscuit dough and cut out mini donuts with a small round cookie cutter or tip of a large piping tip.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fry large donuts for 2-3 minutes on one side, flip and cook the other side for another 2-3 minutes. Small donuts will cook completely in about 2 minutes. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove donuts from oil and place on a wire rack to cool. Donuts should be golden brown and cooked through in the center.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whisk together powdered sugar, peppermint extract, salt, and milk. Add a bit more milk or powdered sugar to achieve desired consistency. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Dip the cooled donuts in the glaze and top with peppermint candies and sprinkles. Allow glaze to harden and enjoy!\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nI highly recommend classic Pillsbury Grands! Flakey Layered Biscuit Dough and avoid anything that’s described as “homestyle”. The layered biscuit doughs allow for a smoother donut texture after frying. One thing to keep in mind is that the texture of biscuit donuts are naturally more dense and slightly chewier than your typical homemade donut dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fry up the individual biscuit rounds until they’re golden brown and cooked through. You can also roll out the biscuit dough just slightly and cut out mini donut holes using a small cookie cutter or the tip of a large piping tip. The mini donut holes will cook up in no time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decorating donuts also make for an excellent holiday party activity! These biscuit donuts can be fried in advance and kept in an airtight container until ready to glaze and decorate later. Right before you’re about to decorate, whisk together the powdered sugar, peppermint extract, and milk until you have your desired consistency. I prefer a relatively thick glaze to hold up to the holiday sprinkles and candies. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sprinkles and peppermint candies will keep well on the donuts for a few hours but may have a tendency to melt after about a day… if your donuts last that long!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Peppermint Biscuit Donuts\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Makes 8 large donuts\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135748\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1371\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135748\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-800x571.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-768x548.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-1020x728.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/peppermint-biscuit-donuts-tray-1200x857.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decorating donuts also make for an excellent holiday party activity \u003ccite>(Kristina Cho/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ingredients:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 tube of biscuit dough\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Canola oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ¼ cup powdered sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ tsp peppermint extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pinch of salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1-2 tbsp milk\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For the topping:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Crush peppermint candies\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Holiday Sprinkles\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Instructions:\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Heat canola oil in a pot to 360 degrees.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove biscuit dough from the tube. If you want to make mini donuts, roll out the biscuit dough and cut out mini donuts with a small round cookie cutter or tip of a large piping tip.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fry large donuts for 2-3 minutes on one side, flip and cook the other side for another 2-3 minutes. Small donuts will cook completely in about 2 minutes. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove donuts from oil and place on a wire rack to cool. Donuts should be golden brown and cooked through in the center.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whisk together powdered sugar, peppermint extract, salt, and milk. Add a bit more milk or powdered sugar to achieve desired consistency. \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Dip the cooled donuts in the glaze and top with peppermint candies and sprinkles. Allow glaze to harden and enjoy!\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"id": "baycurious",
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"tagline": "Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time",
"info": "KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.",
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},
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},
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"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
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"order": 8
},
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"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
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"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
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"order": 1
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 9
},
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
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"how-i-built-this": {
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"order": 15
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
},
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},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
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"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
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