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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986960\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986960\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg\" alt=\"A group of me devouring bowls of beef and chicken pho.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower, one of San Francisco’s most famous pho restaurants, has a new location in the Marina District. The restaurant is known for its northern-style chicken pho. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d made the mistake of coming to the Marina District at 10 o’clock on a Friday night, and on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/super-bowl\">Super Bowl\u003c/a> weekend, no less. The intersection of Fillmore and Greenwich was even \u003ci>more\u003c/i> chaotic than usual — both sides of the street swarming with half-drunk twentysomething frat-boy and sorority-girl types traveling in packs of six or eight. Everyone was decked out in their tightest skirts and bro-iest muscle shirts to stand in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/wine/article/balboa-cafe-bar-sf-19913258.php\">Balboa Cafe\u003c/a> or any of the half-dozen other bars that flank the block.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the Marina in a nutshell. Depending on your \u003ca href=\"https://sfstandard.com/2025/07/21/best-restaurants-bars-marina-sf/\">point of view\u003c/a>, it’s either the best or most obnoxious neighborhood in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe it goes without saying that our dowdy, middle-aged party did not trek to this corner of the Marina for espresso martinis or a night of sweaty, awkward flirtation. Instead, we’d come in search of much unlikelier treasure: the most wholesome bowl of chicken phở in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were hoping for, anyway, when we heard that \u003ca href=\"https://www.turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a> had opened a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reels/DToVxp2kt29/\">brand new location on Fillmore\u003c/a> — and, just as exciting, that it was dishing out hot phở until 3 a.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a serious phở slurper in San Francisco, you’re likely aware of Turtle Tower’s rise and fall and, now, rise again. Probably the most famous and widely beloved phở restaurant in San Francisco during its 25-year run, Turtle Tower operated four locations across the city at its peak. Regulars were understandably devastated, then, when the last location shut its doors in 2023 — and overjoyed when a new ownership group \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2025/3/19/24389523/san-francisco-turtle-tower-pho-restaurant-returns\">revived the business\u003c/a> with a sleek, well-appointed restaurant in the Financial District last spring. Then came the surprise news that Turtle Tower 2.0’s second location would be in the Marina, of all places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant. The sign up top reads, \"Turtle Tower.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower’s Marina location is open until 3 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open for about a month now, the new Fillmore Street restaurant has the look and feel of a swanky fusion restaurant, with low-pulsing electronic dance music and an abundance of stylishly backlit tropical greenery. A chic black-and-gold mural of what appears to be the Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long spans the back wall. All in all, it’s quite a makeover from the stripped-down, mom-and-pop vibe of the original Larkin Street restaurant, where I used to go for big weekend lunches with my family in the early aughts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The worry, of course, with the opening of a “fancier” Turtle Tower in a non-Asian neighborhood, is that the food is going to get whitewashed and watered down. Indeed, the first thing we noticed is that the menu didn’t list the “deluxe” version of the restaurant’s famous chicken phở (listed as “phở gà lòng” in the old days), which came with giblets and skin for a boost of texture and earthy oomph. When we asked our server about it, she smiled sheepishly and explained that, at least for now, they weren’t offering that version. “We weren’t sure if ‘Marina people’ would eat giblets,” she said. Which is, well, fair enough. (She noted, though, that a lot of Asian customers had been asking for them.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout our meal, there were other small signs of the “Marina-fication” of the restaurant: the (non-Asian) waitstaff’s confusion when one of us asked for some vinegar to mix into his dipping sauce for the phở meats. The fact that the phở arrived with only a single lime wedge and the tiniest imaginable pile of sliced jalapeños. (Not-so-pro tip: You just have to ask for more.) And, no surprise, the phở was priced about $5 higher than it was in the Tenderloin days, just a few years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when we actually dug into the food, we put aside all our skepticism. We started with an order of the fresh spring rolls stuffed with both shrimp and thin slices of pork — very light and very delicious, in large part because of the smokiness of the grilled pork, which lingered in our mouths. We also ordered the house-made crab chips (a perfect snack under any circumstance) and a plate of “Hanoi”-style chicken wings, which none of us remembered from any of the previous incarnations of Turtle Tower. These were whole, two-joint wings that we pulled apart with our hands, juicy and succulent, and fried to an attractive, crackly sheen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13961997,arts_13954983,arts_13985780']\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course the main attraction was the phở itself. Turtle Tower has always specialized in northern-style phở — one of the purest distillations of the form that you can find in the Bay Area. That means the broth is less sweet and incorporates fewer spices and fresh herbs; instead of the giant plate of basil and bean sprouts that you get at southern-style joints, the soup comes topped with just a flurry of chopped scallions and cilantro. What you’re meant to taste is the pure flavor of the chicken or beef itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It had been too long since I’d eaten at the old Turtle Tower for me to say with certainty that the chicken phở was exactly the same. But all it took was one sip of that broth — clear, refined, intensely chicken-y with just a hint of ginger — to be fully satisfied. The noodles were wide and soft and highly slurpable, and even without my precious giblets, I could appreciate the silkiness of the shreds of both dark and white chicken meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beef phở, which many of the restaurant’s Vietnamese regulars like even better than the chicken, is similarly minimalistic. Thin slices of rare beef come lightly pounded, in the northern style, for extra tenderness, and the broth, once again, homes in on the pure essence of beef flavor. Both phởs are the very embodiment of a soup that’ll cure what ails you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the new incarnation of Turtle Tower first opened in the Financial District, that location was also open late on weekends and ran a steeply discounted late-night happy hour menu starting at 11 p.m. — $2 oysters, $8 chicken wings, $4 beers and the like. Now that the Marina location is the only one keeping those late-night hours, the happy hour has been discontinued while the restaurant sorts out its liquor license. But once it does, a manager told us, they plan to start those deals up once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the night, we came away still a bit unsure of exactly what kind of “Marina person” the restaurant is hoping to attract, and how successful that effort has been. At least based on our visit, the crowd is a lot more restrained and low-key than we expected — no party people, just groups of two or three, mostly Asian Americans, quietly enjoying a bowl of phở at the end of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, everyone just seemed pleased to have found this little oasis of home-cooked goodness — a shelter from all the blustery noise outside. Most of them, I’d dare to venture, seemed like they could handle a bowl of giblets.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/turtletower.sf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Turtle Tower’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> Marina location is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–3 a.m. at 3145 Fillmore St. in San Francisco. The restaurant also has a location in the Financial District, at 220 California St., with shorter, non-late-night hours.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986960\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986960\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg\" alt=\"A group of me devouring bowls of beef and chicken pho.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower, one of San Francisco’s most famous pho restaurants, has a new location in the Marina District. The restaurant is known for its northern-style chicken pho. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d made the mistake of coming to the Marina District at 10 o’clock on a Friday night, and on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/super-bowl\">Super Bowl\u003c/a> weekend, no less. The intersection of Fillmore and Greenwich was even \u003ci>more\u003c/i> chaotic than usual — both sides of the street swarming with half-drunk twentysomething frat-boy and sorority-girl types traveling in packs of six or eight. Everyone was decked out in their tightest skirts and bro-iest muscle shirts to stand in line outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/wine/article/balboa-cafe-bar-sf-19913258.php\">Balboa Cafe\u003c/a> or any of the half-dozen other bars that flank the block.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the Marina in a nutshell. Depending on your \u003ca href=\"https://sfstandard.com/2025/07/21/best-restaurants-bars-marina-sf/\">point of view\u003c/a>, it’s either the best or most obnoxious neighborhood in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe it goes without saying that our dowdy, middle-aged party did not trek to this corner of the Marina for espresso martinis or a night of sweaty, awkward flirtation. Instead, we’d come in search of much unlikelier treasure: the most wholesome bowl of chicken phở in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s what we were hoping for, anyway, when we heard that \u003ca href=\"https://www.turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a> had opened a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reels/DToVxp2kt29/\">brand new location on Fillmore\u003c/a> — and, just as exciting, that it was dishing out hot phở until 3 a.m. on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re a serious phở slurper in San Francisco, you’re likely aware of Turtle Tower’s rise and fall and, now, rise again. Probably the most famous and widely beloved phở restaurant in San Francisco during its 25-year run, Turtle Tower operated four locations across the city at its peak. Regulars were understandably devastated, then, when the last location shut its doors in 2023 — and overjoyed when a new ownership group \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2025/3/19/24389523/san-francisco-turtle-tower-pho-restaurant-returns\">revived the business\u003c/a> with a sleek, well-appointed restaurant in the Financial District last spring. Then came the surprise news that Turtle Tower 2.0’s second location would be in the Marina, of all places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986959\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986959\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg\" alt='Illustration: Exterior of a restaurant. The sign up top reads, \"Turtle Tower.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/turtle-tower-2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turtle Tower’s Marina location is open until 3 a.m. on weekends. \u003ccite>(Thien Pham)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open for about a month now, the new Fillmore Street restaurant has the look and feel of a swanky fusion restaurant, with low-pulsing electronic dance music and an abundance of stylishly backlit tropical greenery. A chic black-and-gold mural of what appears to be the Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long spans the back wall. All in all, it’s quite a makeover from the stripped-down, mom-and-pop vibe of the original Larkin Street restaurant, where I used to go for big weekend lunches with my family in the early aughts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The worry, of course, with the opening of a “fancier” Turtle Tower in a non-Asian neighborhood, is that the food is going to get whitewashed and watered down. Indeed, the first thing we noticed is that the menu didn’t list the “deluxe” version of the restaurant’s famous chicken phở (listed as “phở gà lòng” in the old days), which came with giblets and skin for a boost of texture and earthy oomph. When we asked our server about it, she smiled sheepishly and explained that, at least for now, they weren’t offering that version. “We weren’t sure if ‘Marina people’ would eat giblets,” she said. Which is, well, fair enough. (She noted, though, that a lot of Asian customers had been asking for them.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout our meal, there were other small signs of the “Marina-fication” of the restaurant: the (non-Asian) waitstaff’s confusion when one of us asked for some vinegar to mix into his dipping sauce for the phở meats. The fact that the phở arrived with only a single lime wedge and the tiniest imaginable pile of sliced jalapeños. (Not-so-pro tip: You just have to ask for more.) And, no surprise, the phở was priced about $5 higher than it was in the Tenderloin days, just a few years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when we actually dug into the food, we put aside all our skepticism. We started with an order of the fresh spring rolls stuffed with both shrimp and thin slices of pork — very light and very delicious, in large part because of the smokiness of the grilled pork, which lingered in our mouths. We also ordered the house-made crab chips (a perfect snack under any circumstance) and a plate of “Hanoi”-style chicken wings, which none of us remembered from any of the previous incarnations of Turtle Tower. These were whole, two-joint wings that we pulled apart with our hands, juicy and succulent, and fried to an attractive, crackly sheen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/span>Of course the main attraction was the phở itself. Turtle Tower has always specialized in northern-style phở — one of the purest distillations of the form that you can find in the Bay Area. That means the broth is less sweet and incorporates fewer spices and fresh herbs; instead of the giant plate of basil and bean sprouts that you get at southern-style joints, the soup comes topped with just a flurry of chopped scallions and cilantro. What you’re meant to taste is the pure flavor of the chicken or beef itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It had been too long since I’d eaten at the old Turtle Tower for me to say with certainty that the chicken phở was exactly the same. But all it took was one sip of that broth — clear, refined, intensely chicken-y with just a hint of ginger — to be fully satisfied. The noodles were wide and soft and highly slurpable, and even without my precious giblets, I could appreciate the silkiness of the shreds of both dark and white chicken meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beef phở, which many of the restaurant’s Vietnamese regulars like even better than the chicken, is similarly minimalistic. Thin slices of rare beef come lightly pounded, in the northern style, for extra tenderness, and the broth, once again, homes in on the pure essence of beef flavor. Both phởs are the very embodiment of a soup that’ll cure what ails you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the new incarnation of Turtle Tower first opened in the Financial District, that location was also open late on weekends and ran a steeply discounted late-night happy hour menu starting at 11 p.m. — $2 oysters, $8 chicken wings, $4 beers and the like. Now that the Marina location is the only one keeping those late-night hours, the happy hour has been discontinued while the restaurant sorts out its liquor license. But once it does, a manager told us, they plan to start those deals up once again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the night, we came away still a bit unsure of exactly what kind of “Marina person” the restaurant is hoping to attract, and how successful that effort has been. At least based on our visit, the crowd is a lot more restrained and low-key than we expected — no party people, just groups of two or three, mostly Asian Americans, quietly enjoying a bowl of phở at the end of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mostly, everyone just seemed pleased to have found this little oasis of home-cooked goodness — a shelter from all the blustery noise outside. Most of them, I’d dare to venture, seemed like they could handle a bowl of giblets.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/turtletower.sf/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Turtle Tower’s\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> Marina location is open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m.–9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.–3 a.m. at 3145 Fillmore St. in San Francisco. The restaurant also has a location in the Financial District, at 220 California St., with shorter, non-late-night hours.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>As the 17th annual \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/\">SF Beer Week\u003c/a> kicks off this weekend, there are a few things you should know, says \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/beerandsoul/\">Sayre Piotrkowski\u003c/a>, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://bayareabrewers.org/\">Bay Area Brewers Guild\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s over 200 events at 176 different venues from Monterey to Windsor,” he tells me during a recent call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/degrees-plato\">Degrees Plato\u003c/a> in Oakland is serving beer with their taco Tuesday special, and \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/trumer\">Trumer Brewery in Berkeley\u003c/a> is offering brunch and a brew with Oakland Ballers baseball team members. Other evenings, you can enjoy a story night or a trivia competition, attend a pet adoption drive or a vinyl record show. There are “tap takeovers” at Michelin Star-rated restaurants, \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/visit-santa-rosa\">a 5k marathon in Santa Rosa\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/del-cielo-livermore/20260225-speed-dating\">a speed dating event at Del Cielo Brewing Co. in Livermore\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986945\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986945\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137.jpg\" alt=\"A bald white man sits at a wooden table while drinking a glass of beer.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sayre Piotrkowski, executive director of the Bay Area Brewers Guild, enjoys a cold brew. \u003ccite>(Portraits To The People)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“One night you’re dropping some real money and drinking \u003ca href=\"https://fairislebrewing.com/\">Fair Isle beer\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.theanchovybar.com/\">The Anchovy Bar\u003c/a> in the City,” says Piotrkowski. “And then, maybe another night, you’re watching \u003ca href=\"https://ticketscandy.com/e/beerweek-rumble-14624\">wrestling in Alameda.\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piotrkowski,\u003ca href=\"https://beerandsoul.substack.com/\"> an avid beer writer\u003c/a> who has worked in multiple levels of the industry, says one of the goals of SF Beer Week is to provide something for everyone (who is 21 and over). In doing so, it creates a certain cross-pollination of beer connoisseurs, community lovers and people who appreciate the wide array of offerings found in this region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason for SF Beer Week, Piotrkowski laments, is that \u003ca href=\"https://www.axios.com/local/san-francisco/2025/07/14/california-breweries-closing-beer-sf\">breweries are struggling across the industry\u003c/a>. But not for the reasons one might assume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You will see a lot of stuff talking about ‘wellness trends’ and ‘abstinence trends’ around alcohol. I still think those are pretty small,” Piotrkowski asserts. “The big thing is that, if you’re under 40 and you live in an expensive place in this country, you don’t have any expendable income.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bars, and the beer industry as a whole, are struggling for the same reason many \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/category/nosh/restaurant-closures/\">restaurants, \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://sfist.com/bar-closures/\">night clubs\u003c/a> and concert venues are having a hard time staying above water, says Piotrkowski. Cheaper and more convenient forms of fun, like staying home and enjoying subscription entertainment services, have replaced the drive for people to spend money at bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986947\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986947\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w.jpg\" alt=\"Musicians playing on a stage outside in San Francisco. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SF Beer Week offers a number of opportunities for people to hear live music all across the region, from small dive bars to larger outdoor venues. \u003ccite>(Arnold Suliguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>SF Beer Week itself was born out of a slower season for the industry, as the rise in the popularity of “dry January” has pushed people to put down the booze during the start of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“February has always been a time when the local beer scene celebrated,” Piotrkowski says, “and did so with strong and rare beers.” He mentions \u003ca href=\"https://the-bistro.com/event-info\">Hayward’s Double IPA Festival\u003c/a>, which just celebrated its 26th year, as well as\u003ca href=\"https://probrewer.com/beverage-industry-news/business-of-beer/strong-beer-month-starts-this-evening/\"> Strong Beer Month, \u003c/a>which was founded in the late ’90s by \u003ca href=\"https://magnoliabrewing.com/\">Magnolia Brewing\u003c/a> and\u003ca href=\"https://21st-amendment.com/\"> 21st Amendment Brewing\u003c/a>. And now, the current iteration of SF Beer Week is more reflective of the current state of small breweries in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latest frontier for craft beer, Piotrkowski explains, is making the everyday beer — something he calls the “just-give-me-a-beer beer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986948\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986948\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans.jpg\" alt=\"Two people wearing SF Giants gear pose for a photo outside while holding a couple of beers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SF Beer Week: where people support local breweries and local teams. \u003ccite>(Arnold Suliguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you go back 15–20 years,” Piotrkowski says, “craft breweries really got their foothold at the periphery.” It was the creation of “loud, attention-getting” beers like imperial stouts and double IPAs that were antithetical to common beers, like light lagers and other beverages readily sold by big, well-known brand names.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Over time,” Piotrkowski tells me, “we sort of won the Slow Food argument, and people just wanted to buy their beers from local companies.” In turn, small breweries began to make pilsners, light lagers and cream ales that could compete with the titans of the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He points to Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.temescalbrewing.com/\">Temescal Brewing\u003c/a>, which is releasing a special Mexican-style lager made from blue corn and barley, as an example of the change that he’s seeing of late. “It’s probably akin to a Negro Modelo,” Piotrkowski says of the new brew. “Except that no multinational corporate entity gets a penny out of your purchase of that beer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, the local brewery sources ingredients from nearby farms. It’s like “\u003ca href=\"https://www.foodliteracycenter.org/food-wiki/farm-table-or-farm-fork\">farm to fork\u003c/a>,” but for beer. “Grain to glass,” he calls it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piotrkowski, who represents the 71 breweries in the Bay Area Brewers Guild, knows that there are a lot of options for entertainment in Northern California. But SF Beer Week, with activations like “\u003ca href=\"https://pier39.com/beer-week/\">Beer 39\u003c/a>‘” — a scavenger-hunt-style sampling of beers at San Francisco’s Pier 39 — Piotrkowski says this event offers people something that can “invigorate your life and culture in a way that some of those other things won’t.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He adds, “This is of your community — world-class beer being made in your community, by people who are accountable to you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For more information on events, activities and happenings around SF Beer Week, \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/\">check out their website\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As the 17th annual \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/\">SF Beer Week\u003c/a> kicks off this weekend, there are a few things you should know, says \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/beerandsoul/\">Sayre Piotrkowski\u003c/a>, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://bayareabrewers.org/\">Bay Area Brewers Guild\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s over 200 events at 176 different venues from Monterey to Windsor,” he tells me during a recent call.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/degrees-plato\">Degrees Plato\u003c/a> in Oakland is serving beer with their taco Tuesday special, and \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/trumer\">Trumer Brewery in Berkeley\u003c/a> is offering brunch and a brew with Oakland Ballers baseball team members. Other evenings, you can enjoy a story night or a trivia competition, attend a pet adoption drive or a vinyl record show. There are “tap takeovers” at Michelin Star-rated restaurants, \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/visit-santa-rosa\">a 5k marathon in Santa Rosa\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/profiles/del-cielo-livermore/20260225-speed-dating\">a speed dating event at Del Cielo Brewing Co. in Livermore\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986945\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986945\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137.jpg\" alt=\"A bald white man sits at a wooden table while drinking a glass of beer.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/SayrePiotrkowski137-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sayre Piotrkowski, executive director of the Bay Area Brewers Guild, enjoys a cold brew. \u003ccite>(Portraits To The People)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“One night you’re dropping some real money and drinking \u003ca href=\"https://fairislebrewing.com/\">Fair Isle beer\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.theanchovybar.com/\">The Anchovy Bar\u003c/a> in the City,” says Piotrkowski. “And then, maybe another night, you’re watching \u003ca href=\"https://ticketscandy.com/e/beerweek-rumble-14624\">wrestling in Alameda.\u003c/a>”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piotrkowski,\u003ca href=\"https://beerandsoul.substack.com/\"> an avid beer writer\u003c/a> who has worked in multiple levels of the industry, says one of the goals of SF Beer Week is to provide something for everyone (who is 21 and over). In doing so, it creates a certain cross-pollination of beer connoisseurs, community lovers and people who appreciate the wide array of offerings found in this region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason for SF Beer Week, Piotrkowski laments, is that \u003ca href=\"https://www.axios.com/local/san-francisco/2025/07/14/california-breweries-closing-beer-sf\">breweries are struggling across the industry\u003c/a>. But not for the reasons one might assume.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You will see a lot of stuff talking about ‘wellness trends’ and ‘abstinence trends’ around alcohol. I still think those are pretty small,” Piotrkowski asserts. “The big thing is that, if you’re under 40 and you live in an expensive place in this country, you don’t have any expendable income.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bars, and the beer industry as a whole, are struggling for the same reason many \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/category/nosh/restaurant-closures/\">restaurants, \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://sfist.com/bar-closures/\">night clubs\u003c/a> and concert venues are having a hard time staying above water, says Piotrkowski. Cheaper and more convenient forms of fun, like staying home and enjoying subscription entertainment services, have replaced the drive for people to spend money at bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986947\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986947\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w.jpg\" alt=\"Musicians playing on a stage outside in San Francisco. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A0079_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-amphitheater-band-pov_1600w-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SF Beer Week offers a number of opportunities for people to hear live music all across the region, from small dive bars to larger outdoor venues. \u003ccite>(Arnold Suliguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>SF Beer Week itself was born out of a slower season for the industry, as the rise in the popularity of “dry January” has pushed people to put down the booze during the start of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“February has always been a time when the local beer scene celebrated,” Piotrkowski says, “and did so with strong and rare beers.” He mentions \u003ca href=\"https://the-bistro.com/event-info\">Hayward’s Double IPA Festival\u003c/a>, which just celebrated its 26th year, as well as\u003ca href=\"https://probrewer.com/beverage-industry-news/business-of-beer/strong-beer-month-starts-this-evening/\"> Strong Beer Month, \u003c/a>which was founded in the late ’90s by \u003ca href=\"https://magnoliabrewing.com/\">Magnolia Brewing\u003c/a> and\u003ca href=\"https://21st-amendment.com/\"> 21st Amendment Brewing\u003c/a>. And now, the current iteration of SF Beer Week is more reflective of the current state of small breweries in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latest frontier for craft beer, Piotrkowski explains, is making the everyday beer — something he calls the “just-give-me-a-beer beer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986948\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986948\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans.jpg\" alt=\"Two people wearing SF Giants gear pose for a photo outside while holding a couple of beers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/sbw25_sfbw-fest_BE9A9821_Arnold-Suliguin_crowd-toast-sf-giant-fans-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">SF Beer Week: where people support local breweries and local teams. \u003ccite>(Arnold Suliguin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you go back 15–20 years,” Piotrkowski says, “craft breweries really got their foothold at the periphery.” It was the creation of “loud, attention-getting” beers like imperial stouts and double IPAs that were antithetical to common beers, like light lagers and other beverages readily sold by big, well-known brand names.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Over time,” Piotrkowski tells me, “we sort of won the Slow Food argument, and people just wanted to buy their beers from local companies.” In turn, small breweries began to make pilsners, light lagers and cream ales that could compete with the titans of the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He points to Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.temescalbrewing.com/\">Temescal Brewing\u003c/a>, which is releasing a special Mexican-style lager made from blue corn and barley, as an example of the change that he’s seeing of late. “It’s probably akin to a Negro Modelo,” Piotrkowski says of the new brew. “Except that no multinational corporate entity gets a penny out of your purchase of that beer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, the local brewery sources ingredients from nearby farms. It’s like “\u003ca href=\"https://www.foodliteracycenter.org/food-wiki/farm-table-or-farm-fork\">farm to fork\u003c/a>,” but for beer. “Grain to glass,” he calls it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piotrkowski, who represents the 71 breweries in the Bay Area Brewers Guild, knows that there are a lot of options for entertainment in Northern California. But SF Beer Week, with activations like “\u003ca href=\"https://pier39.com/beer-week/\">Beer 39\u003c/a>‘” — a scavenger-hunt-style sampling of beers at San Francisco’s Pier 39 — Piotrkowski says this event offers people something that can “invigorate your life and culture in a way that some of those other things won’t.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He adds, “This is of your community — world-class beer being made in your community, by people who are accountable to you.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For more information on events, activities and happenings around SF Beer Week, \u003ca href=\"https://sfbeerweek.org/\">check out their website\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "dzui-favorite-durian-dessert-shop-san-jose-banh-pia",
"title": "How Dzui’s Became San José’s Favorite Durian Dessert Shop",
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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]A[/dropcap]t Dzui’s, a snug \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/vietnamese-food\">Vietnamese\u003c/a> dessert shop in Eastside San José, the display case is a cabinet of delectable mysteries. One side of the counter is piled high with flaky pastries and savory sponge cakes topped, variously, with pork floss and toasted seaweed. On the other, pillowy crepe rolls sit beside clamshell containers of rice pudding molded into the shape of Labubus (!) and a cluster of layer cakes resembling a snow-dusted, neon-green mountain range. Half the items in the case aren’t labeled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who needs a menu, though, when just about everything is mind-bogglingly tasty? Over the course of three recent visits, I hoovered up a refreshing tofu pudding drink packed with boba, pandan jellies and other assorted textural delights, and devoured a pot-pie-like ground pork pastry with boiled quailed eggs hidden inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13925835']More than anything, I reveled in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">rich, famously pungent flavor of durian\u003c/a>. Plump, tender durian crepes crammed full of whipped cream that’s layered with chunks of the intoxicating fruit. A durian-and-salt-cream milk tea that only got more potent — and more delicious — the longer I drank it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13904916\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13904916\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo.jpg\" alt=\"Two Vietnamese milk tea drinks, a pastry and a spiky green durian fruit spread out on a countertop.\" width=\"2500\" height=\"1667\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo.jpg 2500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2500px) 100vw, 2500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of drinks and desserts highlighting the rich, pungent flavor of fresh durian. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most memorable of all was a treat I’d never tried before: a round, flaky pastry that looked like a mooncake or a Chinese \u003ca href=\"https://thewoksoflife.com/wife-cake-lao-po-bing/\">wife cake\u003c/a>. Inside, the filling was a mix of green mung beans, salted egg yolk, candied winter melon and, once again, that characteristic sweet funk of fresh, ripe durian — a delightful combination of textures and flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pastries are known as bánh pía. And, as I soon learned, they’re the product of a 40-plus-year family legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>A Chinese-Vietnamese legacy\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the shop’s owner, Dzui Thai, comes from a long line of bánh pía makers. His aunt and uncle run \u003ca href=\"https://www.banhpiatanhung.vn/\">Tân Hưng\u003c/a>, one of the most famous bánh pía brands in Vietnam, adapting his grandfather’s four-decade-old original recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bánh pía pastries are a legacy of Vietnam’s Teochew (aka Chaozhou) people, an ethnic Chinese subgroup that mostly resettled in parts of Southeast Asia. Both sides of Thai’s family are Teochew who moved to Sóc Trăng, Vietnam, two generations ago. Thai himself is fluent in Mandarin. He says even after immigrating to Sóc Trăng, his paternal grandparents didn’t speak any Vietnamese at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986819\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986819\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai.jpg\" alt=\"A man in a baseball cap poses for a portrait while holding a plate of pastries.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dessert shop’s owner, Dzui Thai, poses with an assortment of pastries. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bánh pía’s Chinese roots help explain why the pastries most closely resemble the kind of flaky, thin-skinned mooncakes that you’ll find in Chaozhou. In fact, Thai says, back in his hometown of Sóc Trăng, people were more likely to eat bánh pía to celebrate the Moon Festival than traditional mooncakes. As a kid, he remembers going to help out at his auntie’s factory each fall, right before the Moon Festival, and everyone would be exhausted from working almost nonstop for the whole month, making thousands upon thousands of bánh pía.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, with his family’s blessing, the bánh pía at Dzui’s are also stamped with the Tân Hưng brand name — even though he produces the pastries independently here in San José, using the same laborious seven-step process that his family’s factories in Sóc Trăng employ. The branding caused some confusion when Thai first started selling the bánh pía, as some Vietnamese customers accused him of simply re-selling pastries he’d bought frozen from Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I respect my family, so that’s why I don’t change it,” Thai says of his decision to carry on the Tân Hưng name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986822\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986822\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a round Asian pastry, with the name of the brand — Tân Hưng — stamped in red. Next to it, a container of Labubu-shaped desserts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dzui’s traditional durian bánh pía, seen here alongside a container of Labubu-shaped rice pudding. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thai’s own path to opening a food business was somewhat circuitous. Originally, he’d moved to California in the late 2000s to attend film school at USC, but wound up dropping out when he was diagnosed with leukemia. Then, seven or eight years later, whiles living in San José with his sister, the cancer returned, and he had to drop everything again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One day, I was lying in bed and didn’t know what to do. I was so craving my family’s [food], so I decided to make it,” Thai recalls. “And then I started to try and sell it at home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Thai’s nascent home bakery business only sold one item — a savory sponge cake topped with pork floss, Chinese sausage and salted egg yolk. It was a hit, and remains one of Dzui’s best-selling items. Soon, he started selling bánh pía too. At the time, he says, no one else was baking those fresh in San José; you could only buy frozen pía cakes at Vietnamese markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986820\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986820\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake.jpg\" alt=\"A savory sponge cake on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The savory sponge cake remains one of the bakery’s best-selling items. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thai says his family didn’t initially support him getting into the food business; they were too worried about his health. But his little home baking venture was \u003ci>so \u003c/i>successful that they eventually relented and gave their approval. In 2017, when Thai was fully cancer-free, he opened Dzui’s Cakes & Desserts as a full-fledged Vietnamese bakery and snack shop. In the years since, Thai has expanded on his durian-forward beverage menu and added a cute cafe area bedecked with nostalgic, 1980s-era knicknacks, rebranding the shop as Dzui Cake & Tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>A paradise for durian lovers\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>As Thai tells it, it’s no coincidence that Dzui’s wound up becoming the South Bay’s go-to destination for durian desserts. That was the vision from the very beginning, he says. After all, even the store’s logo is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=506833571442967&set=a.506833548109636\">jolly cartoon durian\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you open a business, you want to stand out — you want to be different,” Dzui says, pointing out the many other \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">coffee shops and boba shops in San José\u003c/a> that sell more or less the same selection of milk teas and fruit teas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986816\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986816\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink.jpg\" alt=\"A hand holds a cup of milk tea. The label reads, "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy durian."\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink.jpg 1500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dzui’s potent durian milk tea. The slogan on the label speaks to the shop’s overall ethos: “You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy durian.” \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, given the love-it-or-hate-it nature of durian itself, there was always a risk that the business would flop entirely. Instead, these days Dzui’s attracts large crowds of Asian (and some non-Asian) customers who come precisely \u003ci>because\u003c/i> they’ve heard the shop is a kind of paradise for durian lovers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13904913,arts_13986607,arts_13986360']As for his family’s famous bánh pía, Thai sells a few different variations on the treat, including a savory version that has a char siu pork filling with crunchy bits of candied winter melon that act as a wonderful counterpoint. But in his view, a truly traditional bánh pía never omits the durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Vietnamese people, he says, “When you say, ‘I want a pía cake,’ it means you love durian. Because that cake has to have durian inside.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Tết, aka Vietnamese Lunar New Year, kicks off this week, Thai says bánh pía aren’t necessarily a traditional New Year’s treat, but many of his customers love them so much that they’ll still buy them for their festival celebrations. He includes an assortment of them in the various Lunar New Year gift boxes that he sells, along with another perennial customer favorite: Taiwanese-style pineapple cakes that he makes using fresh pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986818\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986818\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice.jpg\" alt=\"A man and a young woman of Asian descent pose in front of a display of cakes and pastries.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thai and his niece, My Trang, pose in front of a counter stacked high with breads and pastries. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Thai says he’s thinking of bringing even more of his family’s Teochew specialties here to San José. In particular, he says, some of his regulars keep clamoring for a type of Chinese sausage that he makes, about the size of a finger, with fresh shrimp inside. “Maybe this year,” he muses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And of course there’s always a bevy of durian innovations, old and new, in the works. “Have you tried the durian egg tarts?” Thai asks. He’s thinking of putting them back on the menu soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’re really, really good,” he tells me. And I believe him.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/p/Dzuis-Cakes-Desserts-100063489853107/\">\u003ci>Dzui Cake & Tea\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 10 a.m.–8:30 p.m., and Friday–Sunday from 10 a.m.–9 p.m. at 2451 Alvin Ave. in San José. The shop is closed on Tuesdays.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The bakery’s bánh pía pastries are a Chinese-Vietnamese family’s 40-year legacy.",
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"title": "How Dzui’s Became San José’s Favorite Durian Dessert Shop | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">A\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>t Dzui’s, a snug \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/vietnamese-food\">Vietnamese\u003c/a> dessert shop in Eastside San José, the display case is a cabinet of delectable mysteries. One side of the counter is piled high with flaky pastries and savory sponge cakes topped, variously, with pork floss and toasted seaweed. On the other, pillowy crepe rolls sit beside clamshell containers of rice pudding molded into the shape of Labubus (!) and a cluster of layer cakes resembling a snow-dusted, neon-green mountain range. Half the items in the case aren’t labeled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Who needs a menu, though, when just about everything is mind-bogglingly tasty? Over the course of three recent visits, I hoovered up a refreshing tofu pudding drink packed with boba, pandan jellies and other assorted textural delights, and devoured a pot-pie-like ground pork pastry with boiled quailed eggs hidden inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>More than anything, I reveled in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925835/durian-bay-area-love-letter-singaporean-culture\">rich, famously pungent flavor of durian\u003c/a>. Plump, tender durian crepes crammed full of whipped cream that’s layered with chunks of the intoxicating fruit. A durian-and-salt-cream milk tea that only got more potent — and more delicious — the longer I drank it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13904916\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13904916\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo.jpg\" alt=\"Two Vietnamese milk tea drinks, a pastry and a spiky green durian fruit spread out on a countertop.\" width=\"2500\" height=\"1667\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo.jpg 2500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/10/001_KQED100321_VietnameseSJDrinks_AndriaLo-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2500px) 100vw, 2500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of drinks and desserts highlighting the rich, pungent flavor of fresh durian. \u003ccite>(Andria Lo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Most memorable of all was a treat I’d never tried before: a round, flaky pastry that looked like a mooncake or a Chinese \u003ca href=\"https://thewoksoflife.com/wife-cake-lao-po-bing/\">wife cake\u003c/a>. Inside, the filling was a mix of green mung beans, salted egg yolk, candied winter melon and, once again, that characteristic sweet funk of fresh, ripe durian — a delightful combination of textures and flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pastries are known as bánh pía. And, as I soon learned, they’re the product of a 40-plus-year family legacy.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>A Chinese-Vietnamese legacy\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the shop’s owner, Dzui Thai, comes from a long line of bánh pía makers. His aunt and uncle run \u003ca href=\"https://www.banhpiatanhung.vn/\">Tân Hưng\u003c/a>, one of the most famous bánh pía brands in Vietnam, adapting his grandfather’s four-decade-old original recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The bánh pía pastries are a legacy of Vietnam’s Teochew (aka Chaozhou) people, an ethnic Chinese subgroup that mostly resettled in parts of Southeast Asia. Both sides of Thai’s family are Teochew who moved to Sóc Trăng, Vietnam, two generations ago. Thai himself is fluent in Mandarin. He says even after immigrating to Sóc Trăng, his paternal grandparents didn’t speak any Vietnamese at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986819\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986819\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai.jpg\" alt=\"A man in a baseball cap poses for a portrait while holding a plate of pastries.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-thai-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dessert shop’s owner, Dzui Thai, poses with an assortment of pastries. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bánh pía’s Chinese roots help explain why the pastries most closely resemble the kind of flaky, thin-skinned mooncakes that you’ll find in Chaozhou. In fact, Thai says, back in his hometown of Sóc Trăng, people were more likely to eat bánh pía to celebrate the Moon Festival than traditional mooncakes. As a kid, he remembers going to help out at his auntie’s factory each fall, right before the Moon Festival, and everyone would be exhausted from working almost nonstop for the whole month, making thousands upon thousands of bánh pía.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, with his family’s blessing, the bánh pía at Dzui’s are also stamped with the Tân Hưng brand name — even though he produces the pastries independently here in San José, using the same laborious seven-step process that his family’s factories in Sóc Trăng employ. The branding caused some confusion when Thai first started selling the bánh pía, as some Vietnamese customers accused him of simply re-selling pastries he’d bought frozen from Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I respect my family, so that’s why I don’t change it,” Thai says of his decision to carry on the Tân Hưng name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986822\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986822\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a round Asian pastry, with the name of the brand — Tân Hưng — stamped in red. Next to it, a container of Labubu-shaped desserts.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-banh-pia-labubu-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dzui’s traditional durian bánh pía, seen here alongside a container of Labubu-shaped rice pudding. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thai’s own path to opening a food business was somewhat circuitous. Originally, he’d moved to California in the late 2000s to attend film school at USC, but wound up dropping out when he was diagnosed with leukemia. Then, seven or eight years later, whiles living in San José with his sister, the cancer returned, and he had to drop everything again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One day, I was lying in bed and didn’t know what to do. I was so craving my family’s [food], so I decided to make it,” Thai recalls. “And then I started to try and sell it at home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Thai’s nascent home bakery business only sold one item — a savory sponge cake topped with pork floss, Chinese sausage and salted egg yolk. It was a hit, and remains one of Dzui’s best-selling items. Soon, he started selling bánh pía too. At the time, he says, no one else was baking those fresh in San José; you could only buy frozen pía cakes at Vietnamese markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986820\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986820\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake.jpg\" alt=\"A savory sponge cake on a plate.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-savory-sponge-cake-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The savory sponge cake remains one of the bakery’s best-selling items. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Thai says his family didn’t initially support him getting into the food business; they were too worried about his health. But his little home baking venture was \u003ci>so \u003c/i>successful that they eventually relented and gave their approval. In 2017, when Thai was fully cancer-free, he opened Dzui’s Cakes & Desserts as a full-fledged Vietnamese bakery and snack shop. In the years since, Thai has expanded on his durian-forward beverage menu and added a cute cafe area bedecked with nostalgic, 1980s-era knicknacks, rebranding the shop as Dzui Cake & Tea.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cb>A paradise for durian lovers\u003c/b>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>As Thai tells it, it’s no coincidence that Dzui’s wound up becoming the South Bay’s go-to destination for durian desserts. That was the vision from the very beginning, he says. After all, even the store’s logo is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=506833571442967&set=a.506833548109636\">jolly cartoon durian\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you open a business, you want to stand out — you want to be different,” Dzui says, pointing out the many other \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13904913/vietnamese-drinks-boba-che-guide-san-jose\">coffee shops and boba shops in San José\u003c/a> that sell more or less the same selection of milk teas and fruit teas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986816\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986816\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink.jpg\" alt=\"A hand holds a cup of milk tea. The label reads, "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy durian."\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink.jpg 1500w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-drink-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dzui’s potent durian milk tea. The slogan on the label speaks to the shop’s overall ethos: “You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy durian.” \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Of course, given the love-it-or-hate-it nature of durian itself, there was always a risk that the business would flop entirely. Instead, these days Dzui’s attracts large crowds of Asian (and some non-Asian) customers who come precisely \u003ci>because\u003c/i> they’ve heard the shop is a kind of paradise for durian lovers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>As for his family’s famous bánh pía, Thai sells a few different variations on the treat, including a savory version that has a char siu pork filling with crunchy bits of candied winter melon that act as a wonderful counterpoint. But in his view, a truly traditional bánh pía never omits the durian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Vietnamese people, he says, “When you say, ‘I want a pía cake,’ it means you love durian. Because that cake has to have durian inside.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Tết, aka Vietnamese Lunar New Year, kicks off this week, Thai says bánh pía aren’t necessarily a traditional New Year’s treat, but many of his customers love them so much that they’ll still buy them for their festival celebrations. He includes an assortment of them in the various Lunar New Year gift boxes that he sells, along with another perennial customer favorite: Taiwanese-style pineapple cakes that he makes using fresh pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986818\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986818\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice.jpg\" alt=\"A man and a young woman of Asian descent pose in front of a display of cakes and pastries.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/dzui-and-neice-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thai and his niece, My Trang, pose in front of a counter stacked high with breads and pastries. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Thai says he’s thinking of bringing even more of his family’s Teochew specialties here to San José. In particular, he says, some of his regulars keep clamoring for a type of Chinese sausage that he makes, about the size of a finger, with fresh shrimp inside. “Maybe this year,” he muses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And of course there’s always a bevy of durian innovations, old and new, in the works. “Have you tried the durian egg tarts?” Thai asks. He’s thinking of putting them back on the menu soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’re really, really good,” he tells me. And I believe him.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/p/Dzuis-Cakes-Desserts-100063489853107/\">\u003ci>Dzui Cake & Tea\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 10 a.m.–8:30 p.m., and Friday–Sunday from 10 a.m.–9 p.m. at 2451 Alvin Ave. in San José. The shop is closed on Tuesdays.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "guerneville-russian-river-fungi-fest-mushroom-foraging-food-science-sonoma-county",
"title": "Fungi Fest Brings Mushroom Foraging, Food and Forest Science to Sonoma County",
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"headTitle": "Fungi Fest Brings Mushroom Foraging, Food and Forest Science to Sonoma County | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>In winter, when the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/russian-river\">Russian River\u003c/a> slows and fog clings to the redwoods, another kingdom quietly rises beneath the forest floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Guerneville is throwing a festival in its honor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inaugural \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest\">Russian River Fungi Fest\u003c/a>, taking place Feb. 21–22, brings a two-day celebration of mushrooms to West Sonoma County, blending science talks, forest foraging, art and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13984173']“We just threw some paint at the wall,” says Nick Schwanz, president of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomacounty.com/events/russian-river-fungi-fest/\">Russian River Chamber of Commerce\u003c/a> and co-founder of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/solarpunkfarms/\">Solar Punk Farms\u003c/a>, which is co-organizing the event. “And the instantaneous energy around it was like — okay, great, let’s do it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The celebration comes at a time when mushroom safety is top of mind. California has seen recent cases of accidental poisonings from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/science/1999828/california-combats-largest-mushroom-poisoning-outbreak-in-the-country\">death cap mushrooms\u003c/a> — a toxic species that can resemble edible varieties and grows widely across the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s one reason Schwanz says education is central to the festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fungi Fest evolved from two overlapping goals. Solar Punk Farms, a climate-focused community hub, is always looking for ways to get people excited about ecology. The chamber of commerce, meanwhile, wants to remind visitors that Sonoma County isn’t just a summer river destination, Schwanz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Nature and winter in Sonoma County just scream mushrooms,” he explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='news_11901198'] Rather than positioning themselves as mushroom authorities, organizers built what Schwanz calls a “scaffolding”: a platform for the region’s mycologists, foragers and fungi enthusiasts to share their knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the center of the weekend is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest\">Mushroom Marketplace\u003c/a>, expected to feature 60 to 80 vendors selling fresh mushrooms, foraging kits, books and mushroom-dyed artwork. A section dubbed “Yeast Village” will spotlight fermented foods, beer, wine and sourdough bread — everyday examples of fungi at work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two stages will host the \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest#fungi-forum\">Fungi Forum\u003c/a>, with about 15 speakers covering topics from the basics of Sonoma County mushroom identification to how to forage safely and avoid poisonous lookalikes. Some talks will dive deeper into mycelium, the threadlike underground network that makes up most of a fungus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984067\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984067\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"person crouches to cut mushroom off log, dog and another person behind\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1314\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED-768x505.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED-1536x1009.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nick Schwanz picks mushrooms from the forest at Solar Punk Farms in Guerneville on Nov. 1, 2025. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“When people think of fungi, they think about the mushroom,” Schwanz says. “But most of fungi really is the mycelium.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mycelium, that hidden web, is essential to forest ecosystems, breaking down dead material and recycling nutrients. It’s also inspiring innovation, including biodegradable packaging and experimental building materials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond lectures, the festival invites people into the woods. \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest#outdoor-adventure\">Guided hikes\u003c/a> through Armstrong Woods and foraging expeditions with local experts will give beginners a chance to learn how to identify species and harvest responsibly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postid='forum_2010101887174']And then there are the \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest#pop-up-events\">pop-ups\u003c/a> — nearly 30 of them. Local restaurants and businesses are planning mushroom-themed menus, drink specials, movie screenings, workshops and even a mushroom tattoo flash. “It’s a very Guerneville party,” Schwanz admits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The suggested donation is $15 for the full weekend, with no one turned away for lack of funds. Organizers say the event is designed to be family-friendly, with some programming specifically for kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This isn’t just for people who love mushrooms on pizza,” Schwanz says. “It’s for people who are just curious about nature.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest\">Russian River Fungi Fest\u003c/a> takes place Feb. 21–22, 2026 in downtown Guerneville. It is a free event with a suggested donation of $15 for the full weekend.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Russian River Fungi Fest Is For the Mushroom Lovers | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In winter, when the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/tag/russian-river\">Russian River\u003c/a> slows and fog clings to the redwoods, another kingdom quietly rises beneath the forest floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Guerneville is throwing a festival in its honor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The inaugural \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest\">Russian River Fungi Fest\u003c/a>, taking place Feb. 21–22, brings a two-day celebration of mushrooms to West Sonoma County, blending science talks, forest foraging, art and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“We just threw some paint at the wall,” says Nick Schwanz, president of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.sonomacounty.com/events/russian-river-fungi-fest/\">Russian River Chamber of Commerce\u003c/a> and co-founder of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/solarpunkfarms/\">Solar Punk Farms\u003c/a>, which is co-organizing the event. “And the instantaneous energy around it was like — okay, great, let’s do it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The celebration comes at a time when mushroom safety is top of mind. California has seen recent cases of accidental poisonings from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/science/1999828/california-combats-largest-mushroom-poisoning-outbreak-in-the-country\">death cap mushrooms\u003c/a> — a toxic species that can resemble edible varieties and grows widely across the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s one reason Schwanz says education is central to the festival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fungi Fest evolved from two overlapping goals. Solar Punk Farms, a climate-focused community hub, is always looking for ways to get people excited about ecology. The chamber of commerce, meanwhile, wants to remind visitors that Sonoma County isn’t just a summer river destination, Schwanz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Nature and winter in Sonoma County just scream mushrooms,” he explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> Rather than positioning themselves as mushroom authorities, organizers built what Schwanz calls a “scaffolding”: a platform for the region’s mycologists, foragers and fungi enthusiasts to share their knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the center of the weekend is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest\">Mushroom Marketplace\u003c/a>, expected to feature 60 to 80 vendors selling fresh mushrooms, foraging kits, books and mushroom-dyed artwork. A section dubbed “Yeast Village” will spotlight fermented foods, beer, wine and sourdough bread — everyday examples of fungi at work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two stages will host the \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest#fungi-forum\">Fungi Forum\u003c/a>, with about 15 speakers covering topics from the basics of Sonoma County mushroom identification to how to forage safely and avoid poisonous lookalikes. Some talks will dive deeper into mycelium, the threadlike underground network that makes up most of a fungus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13984067\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13984067\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"person crouches to cut mushroom off log, dog and another person behind\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1314\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED-160x105.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED-768x505.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2025/11/20251101_QUEERWOODS-GC-17-KQED-1536x1009.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nick Schwanz picks mushrooms from the forest at Solar Punk Farms in Guerneville on Nov. 1, 2025. \u003ccite>(Gina Castro for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“When people think of fungi, they think about the mushroom,” Schwanz says. “But most of fungi really is the mycelium.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mycelium, that hidden web, is essential to forest ecosystems, breaking down dead material and recycling nutrients. It’s also inspiring innovation, including biodegradable packaging and experimental building materials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond lectures, the festival invites people into the woods. \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest#outdoor-adventure\">Guided hikes\u003c/a> through Armstrong Woods and foraging expeditions with local experts will give beginners a chance to learn how to identify species and harvest responsibly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>And then there are the \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest#pop-up-events\">pop-ups\u003c/a> — nearly 30 of them. Local restaurants and businesses are planning mushroom-themed menus, drink specials, movie screenings, workshops and even a mushroom tattoo flash. “It’s a very Guerneville party,” Schwanz admits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The suggested donation is $15 for the full weekend, with no one turned away for lack of funds. Organizers say the event is designed to be family-friendly, with some programming specifically for kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This isn’t just for people who love mushrooms on pizza,” Schwanz says. “It’s for people who are just curious about nature.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.solarpunkfarms.com/fungifest\">Russian River Fungi Fest\u003c/a> takes place Feb. 21–22, 2026 in downtown Guerneville. It is a free event with a suggested donation of $15 for the full weekend.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "asian-high-tea-afternoon-tea-singaporean-malaysian-bay-area-kopi-bar-malaya-tea-room",
"title": "It’s a Golden Age for Asian-Style Afternoon Tea in the Bay Area",
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"content": "\u003cp>On a recent Saturday morning, about a dozen elegantly dressed pastry lovers, decked out in their finest Regency-era gowns and dainty flower hats, promenaded into the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/bampfa\">Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive\u003c/a>. Up the museum’s bright red staircase they went, pausing occasionally to snap a selfie, until they’d reached the second-floor cafe, where a handsome spread of teacakes and finger sandwiches awaited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The occasion? A \u003cem>Bridgerton\u003c/em>-themed tea party, which the cafe, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13980465/kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast\">Kopi Bar\u003c/a>, had timed to coincide with the soapy Netflix costume drama’s fourth season premiere. Thus the cavalcade of pearls and frilly chiffon gowns. Everything about the event appeared to be oh-so-perfectly British in its sensibilities — except that the food displayed on the wooden two-tier cake stands wasn’t \u003cem>only \u003c/em>your typical array of scones, clotted cream and cucumber sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cinnamon-roll-like pastry swirls shot through with sweet pandan and coconut sat next to crispy beef rendang samosas. Curried tuna salad topped delicate open-face sourdough brioche sandwiches. And while one sandwich did feature sliced cucumbers, they were mainly there to provide a cooling counterpoint to the fiery sambal-spiked egg salad on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of food that chef-owner Nora Haron likes to serve at Kopi Bar — a reflection of her background as a Singaporean immigrant of Indonesian-Indian descent. And while the spread might have surprised some Anglophile tea party enthusiasts, anyone who’s taken high tea at, say, one of Singapore’s grand hotels would find the mix of Eastern and Western flavors utterly familiar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, in countries like Singapore and Malaysia, where afternoon tea is a well-loved remnant of British colonization, it’s standard practice to combine the format and the aesthetics of English-style tea service with an infusion of Asian flavors. There, too, Haron likes to point out, guests get dressed up and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963228/indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek\">sip their Earl Grey with their pinkies out\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986143\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986143\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Diners enjoying an afternoon tea spread inside a busy cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guests share tea and pastries while dressed in “Bridgerton”-inspired outfits during Kopi Bar’s themed high tea service on Jan. 31, 2026, at the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive in Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has its own rich tea party traditions, mostly nodding to the British style. But up until a couple of years ago, it was nearly impossible to find this kind of hybridized, Asian-inspired afternoon tea service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s no longer the case. In fact, we’re experiencing something of a golden age for Asian-style afternoon tea here in the Bay Area, as new pop-ups and standalone tea rooms crop up to satisfy the growing demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To wit: Kopi Bar’s aforementioned \u003cem>Bridgerton \u003c/em>tea series will take over a section of the cafe every Saturday at least through the end of February. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/littlemoonbakehouse/?hl=en\">Little Moon Bakehouse\u003c/a>, an Asian American vegan baking company in Oakland, hosts “reimagined” afternoon tea pop-ups at different venues around the Bay — packing 100 sweets lovers onto, say, the second floor of San Francisco’s Ferry Building for moon cakes and mini pork floss buns. Meanwhile, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pamanaplantas/?hl=en\">Pamana Plantas\u003c/a>, a plant store in Berkeley, has started throwing kamayan-inspired \u003ca href=\"https://pamanaplantas.com/pages/kamayan-tea-parties\">Filipino tea parties\u003c/a>, lining the tables with banana leaves and ube pastries. And while the afternoon tea program at San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sonandgarden/?hl=en\">Son & Garden\u003c/a>, a lavishly flower-bedecked spot from the owners of the Farmhouse Thai restaurant empire, doesn’t have an explicit Asian focus, its \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/son-and-garden-san-francisco?select=WSZlwDtjjA9iLKVlv9XNng\">themed tea sets\u003c/a> often include delicacies like Japanese cherry blossom cookies and homemade samosas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986142\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986142\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a diner's hand holding up an open-face avocado sandwich.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A guest at Kopi Bar holds a tea sandwich topped with avocado and herbs. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then there’s the OG of the genre, Alameda’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/malayatearoom/?hl=en\">Malaya Tea Room\u003c/a>, which has served elegant Malaysian afternoon tea sets, both in person and as a take-home kit, for nearly seven years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For her part, Haron says the tea parties have by far been her most popular events since she started hosting them last year. After she \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13980465/kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast\">moved Kopi Bar to Berkeley\u003c/a> from its original Walnut Creek location this past fall, she received a steady stream of DMs from old customers, pleading with her: “Please, please, will you do this again?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In response to such a groundswell of support, Haron says, laughing, “How can I not?”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Reclaiming a colonial history\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Of course, the British were the ones who brought the practice of a light afternoon meal with tea to Singapore and Malaysia during their long period of colonial rule — from 1819 to 1963, in the case of Singapore. The Raffles Hotel, probably the most iconic place to take tea in Singapore, started offering its afternoon tea service — complete with live orchestra — in 1918.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The new enterprise should be warmly encouraged by the public of both sexes who often find the hours between 4:30 and dinner time hang heavily,” an \u003ca href=\"https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/digitised/article/straitstimes19180109-1.2.26?qt=%22afternoon%20tea%22,%20%22raffles%20hotel%22&q=%22afternoon%20tea%22%20%22raffles%20hotel%22\">article in Singaporean newspaper \u003cem>The Straits Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> enthused at the time. Meanwhile, a popular restaurant called Emmerson’s Tiffin Room was advertising a more modest daily afternoon tea \u003ca href=\"https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/digitised/article/singfreepressb18980702-1.2.32.2?qt=%22afternoon%20tea%22,%20emmerson&q=%22afternoon%20tea%22%20%22emmerson%27s%22\">as early as 1898\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986151\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986151\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in an elegant dark blue dress with matching floral hat.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cindy Lee, a guest at Kopi Bar’s “Bridgerton”-themed high tea, poses in the stairwell at BAMPFA. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These initial offerings were mostly geared toward Singapore’s British residents, as well as wealthy travelers visiting from Europe. But the custom of taking afternoon tea was eventually taken up by locals as well — and persisted long after the British left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local expressions of the tradition began as early as the 1960s, says \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kfseetoh/?hl=en\">KF Seetoh\u003c/a>, probably the foremost street food expert in Singapore. Cafes began selling kaya toast and local coffee in the afternoon; curry puffs and pandan cakes also first appeared around this time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These days at Raffles, you’ll find Indian tiffin meals \u003cem>and\u003c/em> tiered trays of high tea offerings, [everything] from the usual British fare to even \u003ca href=\"https://ccs.city/en/chinese-cultural-club/chinese-culinary/nyonya-cake\">Nyonya cakes\u003c/a>,” Seetoh says. “The evolution [can be] credited to finding an identity true to the mishmash of cultures in Singapore — the best of everyone’s kitchens and grandmas’ recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A similar story played out in Malaysia. For Malaya Tea Room owner Leena Lim, going out for tea was an occasional mother-daughter treat she remembers enjoying all through her childhood. Every couple of months, her mother would bring her to afternoon tea at the Shangri-La Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, where she’d marvel at all of the fancy cakes and finger sandwiches.[aside postID=arts_13986360 hero='https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-kaisendon.jpg']“It was such an intimate, beautiful experience,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, in the ’80s and ’90s, most of the upscale hotel afternoon tea places in Malaysia still served food that was overwhelmingly British. At most, Lim recalls, maybe one item — say, a curry puff — would nod toward the local food culture. Because afternoon tea at the big hotels was “fancy” and expensive, Lim says even locals \u003cem>wanted\u003c/em> the food to be authentically British. Why would anyone pay so much to eat a Malaysian snack they could buy down the street for just a few ringgits?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lim estimates it’s only in the last 10 years or so that even the fanciest British-style tea rooms in Malaysia and Singapore have started leaning more into local flavors, adding sambals and curries and kuehs (assorted bite-size treats made with glutinous rice) into the mix with the scones and cucumber sandwiches that people still expect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Lim opened Malaya Tea Room in 2019, on a quiet stretch of Central Avenue in Alameda, she wanted it to be more of a hybrid. At the time, she didn’t know of any other businesses that were throwing Asian–inspired afternoon tea parties. Beloved local institutions like Lovejoy’s more or less replicate the British traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/14/21436496/malaya-tea-room-afternoon-tea-takeout-box-kaya-jam-rendang-alameda\">Lim wanted to do both\u003c/a>. She planned to do the British stuff just as well as, or maybe even better than, the purely Anglophilic places — to, for instance, be one of the only places that make their clotted cream from scratch. But she also wanted to introduce customers to elegant, afternoon tea versions of some of her favorite Malaysian street snacks — in other words, to serve food that actually tastes \u003cem>good\u003c/em>. (She’d grown to find the British standards to be quite bland and boring.) Her menu included one finger sandwich that’s based on kaya toast, another that combines pork floss with a homemade basil spread, and yet another that features bakkwa (Malaysian pork jerky).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986561\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Three-tiered cake stand with an array of cakes, pastries and finger sandwiches.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">British-style scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam sit alongside curried potato canapés on gluten-free crackers during afternoon tea at Malaya Tea Room in Alameda on Feb. 6, 2026. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When my family arrived at Malaya on a recent Sunday, the atmosphere inside the cozy tea room was languid and vaguely tropical — lush greenery sprawled in every direction; a ceiling fan spun lazily up above. Nostalgic knickknacks (antique Chinese vases, an abacus, an old Hup Seng cracker tin) decorated the display cabinets. On the table was a little bell to ring when you were ready for your server to come take your order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sandwiches we loved best included the curry chicken, made with coconut milk and a secret spice blend, and a sardine-and-cucumber number that Lim makes by doctoring the canned sardines in tomato sauce that you can buy at Asian grocers. On the sweets side, we enjoyed an airy-light pandan chiffon cake that wasn’t \u003cem>too \u003c/em>sweet — the ultimate compliment for an Asian dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even the egg salad sandwich, which we ordered off the British side of the menu, was uncommonly good — lush with Kewpie mayonnaise and served on fluffy milk bread. It tasted exactly like the ones you get at 7-Eleven in Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lim says that’s exactly what she was going for: a familiar flavor that reminds you of childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986559\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"An Asian woman poses in front of a tiered cake stand with pastries and sandwiches.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leena Lim, owner of Malaya Tea Room, sits behind a table set for afternoon tea. The tea room opened in Alameda in 2019 and has become a destination for specialty tea service in the East Bay. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her business has had its ups and downs over the past seven years, especially with the pandemic hitting just months after it opened. But she’s developed a loyal customer base, and people do seem to better understand Malaya’s afternoon tea offerings now than they did in the shop’s early days. Part of that, she says, just has to do with how much more popular Asian food is these days — how there’s now a cultural cachet to being the sort of person who understands pandan and ube: “Otherwise, it’s like who are you? Do you even live here?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helps that afternoon tea is the ultimate Instagram-friendly meal. Plus, Lim says, “people love dressing up,” and going out for tea provides a rare opportunity to do that. Every year, she has a big group that comes in cosplaying as anime characters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During our visit, we spotted three elderly women enjoying a quiet conversation, a table of Gen Z Taiwanese ladies chattering happily in Mandarin, and a group of white otaku having an intense debate about \u003cem>Dragon Ball Z\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Now I even get groups of men who come in by themselves,” Lim says. “I think that’s awesome.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tea with a twist\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The bakeries and cafes that offer Asian-style afternoon tea in the Bay Area all have their own charm — and their own little twists on the genre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little Moon Bakehouse owner Annie Wang says her pop-ups are a natural extension of the fact that she started baking bread for the first time in 2024, adding a variety of Chinese bakery–style buns to her repertoire of plant-based cookies and mooncakes. Unlike Wang’s other baked goods, the breads don’t have long enough of a shelf life to ship nationally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986606\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Little Moon Bakehouse owner Annie Wang (standing) mingles with guests at her afternoon tea pop-up at the San Francisco Ferry Building on Dec. 14, 2025. Featured items included plant-based mooncakes and mini pork floss buns. \u003ccite>(Phil Stockbridge/SF Event Photo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I realized that this would be great for an experience,” she says. She started renting out venues across the Bay Area to host one-day afternoon tea pop-ups, filling up three-tier cake stands with an equal split of sweet and savory treats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Feb. 22, she’ll host her second tea pop-up in the San Francisco Ferry Building — a \u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/products/afternoon-tea-in-sf-sun-dec-14-ferry-building-copy\">Lunar New Year–themed bash\u003c/a> for 100 guests, seated at long tables that stretch the length of the festive second-floor Grand Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu will include miniature pork floss buns, garlic butter buns, and \u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/products/preorder-soy-sauce-chocolate-citrus-cookie-sandwich-heydoh-x-little-moon-bakehouse\">citrus zest sugar cookies\u003c/a> filled with soy sauce–spiked white chocolate (that one is a collaboration with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/heydoh.co/\">Heydoh\u003c/a>, a Taiwanese American soy sauce brand). In the coming months, she’ll host \u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/collections/afternoon-tea\">additional pop-ups\u003c/a> in SF Chinatown, the Sunset District and San José.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986562\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986562\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Tea kettles, sugar bowls and metal canisters of loose-leaf tea on a wooden credenza.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Loose-leaf teas line a wooden cabinet at Malaya Tea Room. The tea room serves a wide selection of teas in a space filled with nostalgic antique furnishings. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Jai Kandayah, the owner of Pleasanton’s recently closed \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/curryleavesbistro/?hl=en\">Curry Leaves Bistro\u003c/a>, says he never \u003cem>intended \u003c/em>to serve afternoon tea at his restaurant. He, too, grew up taking afternoon tea in Malaysia, but not the kind served at fancy hotels, which wasn’t accessible for working-class people. For the majority of Malaysians, afternoon tea — or high tea — was more of a home ritual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In Kandayah’s experience, Malaysians are more likely to talk about “high tea” than afternoon tea, referring to a heartier meal eaten later in the afternoon, at perhaps 4 or 5 p.m. after they get home from work — much more practical for working-class folks who can’t leave their jobs to eat cakes for an hour at 2 in the afternoon.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These meals always featured local flavors, Kandayah recalls. “I remember my mom would make a big pot of tea in the afternoon and then usually a savory snack — banana fritters, fried yucca, fried yams, fried taro,” he says. Sometimes the bread man would come around, and they’d buy a loaf and dip the bread in the curry that was left over from lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The local high tea buffets he remembers frequenting as a young man similarly skewed toward Malaysian flavors. Many of them would even serve fried noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But again, Kandayah never had a high tea menu at Curry Leaves Bistro. Instead, regular customers — all of them older Malaysian immigrants — would knock on his door on Friday or Saturday afternoons, when the restaurant was closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People would call and say, ‘Hey, there are eight of us coming in at 4 o’clock after our golf game. Can you prepare some tea and roti, and a plate of noodles?’” Kandayah says. “And we would do that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curry Leaves Bistro wound up closing this past fall after the landlord increased the rent, but Kandayah has already scouted out a new location in the East Bay and hopes to reopen later this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, he says, afternoon tea on the restaurant’s backyard patio is going to come officially baked into the program.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A celebration of immigration\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Kopi Bar has leaned into the cosplay of it all. In addition to her \u003cem>Bridgerton\u003c/em> series, Haron has also hosted Bollywood- and \u003cem>Arabian Nights\u003c/em>–themed afternoon teas, and encourages guests to come dressed up to reflect the theme. People come for Haron’s stellar baked goods, sure. But they also come because the tea parties are joyful and extravagant — an all-out happening, as they say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for Haron, in the current political climate — while masked federal agents whisk soccer moms and five-year-old kids away to far-off detention centers — her tea parties aren’t just some frivolous, let-them-eat-cake moments to cosplay as British aristocrats. They’re important rituals that allow immigrants like her to come together and celebrate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986148\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986148\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in glasses poses inside a cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Nora Haron, owner of Kopi Bar and Bakery, poses in her cafe on the second floor of BAMPFA. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“This idea of ‘illegal’ immigrants being criminals — that’s obnoxious. We’re doing something for the community. You know, we’re bringing people together. We’re creating jobs,” she says. “So it’s wonderful to be able to support one another this way.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, she says, food is intertwined with the immigration process. And traditions like afternoon tea are a vital way for immigrants to maintain their cultural identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in Singapore and Malaysia, the history of afternoon tea followed the same path as so many other things in Southeast Asia: The colonizers brought it, but locals improved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986547\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986547\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up on a pandan pastry, a cup of tea and a menu for a special high tea event.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pandan and coconut pastry swirl sits next to Kopi Bar’s “Bridgerton”-inspired high tea menu. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the food writer Seetoh puts it, “You can still spend over a hundred bucks for the little pinky high teas at posh hotels flavored with affluence, but the majority, even the well-heeled, prefer a kueh salat, curry puff or ang ku kueh at local cafes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It feels more like a Singapore story,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it goes here in the diaspora, as Asian Americans create a new set of traditions replete with sourdough, vegan pork floss and the Bay Area’s own unique sense of swagger. They, too, are making afternoon tea their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kopi Bar’s \u003c/em>Bridgerton \u003cem>high tea series will run every Saturday through Feb. 28, plus an additional date on March 1, with seatings at 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/a-bridgerton-inspired-high-tea-at-kopi-bar-tickets-1979138513571\">\u003cem>Tickets\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> are limited. The cafe is located on the second floor of BAMPFA, at 2155 Center St. in Berkeley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Little Moon Bakehouse’s Lunar New Year–themed afternoon tea will take place on Feb. 22, 11:30-1:30 p.m., at the SF Ferry Building (1 Ferry Building, San Francisco). \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/products/afternoon-tea-in-sf-sun-dec-14-ferry-building-copy\">\u003cem>Tickets\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> are limited. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/collections/afternoon-tea\">\u003cem>Future tea events\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> are scheduled to take place in SF Chinatown, the Sunset District, and San José.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://malayatearoom.com/\">\u003cem>Malaya Tea Room\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> has three seatings per day, Thu.-Sun., at 11 a.m., 1:15 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. It’s located at 920 Central Ave. in Alameda.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Scones and clotted cream come with a side of pandan and curry.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On a recent Saturday morning, about a dozen elegantly dressed pastry lovers, decked out in their finest Regency-era gowns and dainty flower hats, promenaded into the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/bampfa\">Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive\u003c/a>. Up the museum’s bright red staircase they went, pausing occasionally to snap a selfie, until they’d reached the second-floor cafe, where a handsome spread of teacakes and finger sandwiches awaited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The occasion? A \u003cem>Bridgerton\u003c/em>-themed tea party, which the cafe, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13980465/kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast\">Kopi Bar\u003c/a>, had timed to coincide with the soapy Netflix costume drama’s fourth season premiere. Thus the cavalcade of pearls and frilly chiffon gowns. Everything about the event appeared to be oh-so-perfectly British in its sensibilities — except that the food displayed on the wooden two-tier cake stands wasn’t \u003cem>only \u003c/em>your typical array of scones, clotted cream and cucumber sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cinnamon-roll-like pastry swirls shot through with sweet pandan and coconut sat next to crispy beef rendang samosas. Curried tuna salad topped delicate open-face sourdough brioche sandwiches. And while one sandwich did feature sliced cucumbers, they were mainly there to provide a cooling counterpoint to the fiery sambal-spiked egg salad on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of food that chef-owner Nora Haron likes to serve at Kopi Bar — a reflection of her background as a Singaporean immigrant of Indonesian-Indian descent. And while the spread might have surprised some Anglophile tea party enthusiasts, anyone who’s taken high tea at, say, one of Singapore’s grand hotels would find the mix of Eastern and Western flavors utterly familiar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, in countries like Singapore and Malaysia, where afternoon tea is a well-loved remnant of British colonization, it’s standard practice to combine the format and the aesthetics of English-style tea service with an infusion of Asian flavors. There, too, Haron likes to point out, guests get dressed up and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13963228/indonesian-high-tea-kopi-bar-sandai-walnut-creek\">sip their Earl Grey with their pinkies out\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986143\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986143\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Diners enjoying an afternoon tea spread inside a busy cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_003-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guests share tea and pastries while dressed in “Bridgerton”-inspired outfits during Kopi Bar’s themed high tea service on Jan. 31, 2026, at the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive in Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has its own rich tea party traditions, mostly nodding to the British style. But up until a couple of years ago, it was nearly impossible to find this kind of hybridized, Asian-inspired afternoon tea service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s no longer the case. In fact, we’re experiencing something of a golden age for Asian-style afternoon tea here in the Bay Area, as new pop-ups and standalone tea rooms crop up to satisfy the growing demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To wit: Kopi Bar’s aforementioned \u003cem>Bridgerton \u003c/em>tea series will take over a section of the cafe every Saturday at least through the end of February. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/littlemoonbakehouse/?hl=en\">Little Moon Bakehouse\u003c/a>, an Asian American vegan baking company in Oakland, hosts “reimagined” afternoon tea pop-ups at different venues around the Bay — packing 100 sweets lovers onto, say, the second floor of San Francisco’s Ferry Building for moon cakes and mini pork floss buns. Meanwhile, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pamanaplantas/?hl=en\">Pamana Plantas\u003c/a>, a plant store in Berkeley, has started throwing kamayan-inspired \u003ca href=\"https://pamanaplantas.com/pages/kamayan-tea-parties\">Filipino tea parties\u003c/a>, lining the tables with banana leaves and ube pastries. And while the afternoon tea program at San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sonandgarden/?hl=en\">Son & Garden\u003c/a>, a lavishly flower-bedecked spot from the owners of the Farmhouse Thai restaurant empire, doesn’t have an explicit Asian focus, its \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/son-and-garden-san-francisco?select=WSZlwDtjjA9iLKVlv9XNng\">themed tea sets\u003c/a> often include delicacies like Japanese cherry blossom cookies and homemade samosas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986142\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986142\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of a diner's hand holding up an open-face avocado sandwich.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_001-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A guest at Kopi Bar holds a tea sandwich topped with avocado and herbs. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then there’s the OG of the genre, Alameda’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/malayatearoom/?hl=en\">Malaya Tea Room\u003c/a>, which has served elegant Malaysian afternoon tea sets, both in person and as a take-home kit, for nearly seven years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For her part, Haron says the tea parties have by far been her most popular events since she started hosting them last year. After she \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13980465/kopi-bar-bampfa-cafe-berkeley-avocado-iced-coffee-kaya-toast\">moved Kopi Bar to Berkeley\u003c/a> from its original Walnut Creek location this past fall, she received a steady stream of DMs from old customers, pleading with her: “Please, please, will you do this again?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In response to such a groundswell of support, Haron says, laughing, “How can I not?”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Reclaiming a colonial history\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Of course, the British were the ones who brought the practice of a light afternoon meal with tea to Singapore and Malaysia during their long period of colonial rule — from 1819 to 1963, in the case of Singapore. The Raffles Hotel, probably the most iconic place to take tea in Singapore, started offering its afternoon tea service — complete with live orchestra — in 1918.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The new enterprise should be warmly encouraged by the public of both sexes who often find the hours between 4:30 and dinner time hang heavily,” an \u003ca href=\"https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/digitised/article/straitstimes19180109-1.2.26?qt=%22afternoon%20tea%22,%20%22raffles%20hotel%22&q=%22afternoon%20tea%22%20%22raffles%20hotel%22\">article in Singaporean newspaper \u003cem>The Straits Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> enthused at the time. Meanwhile, a popular restaurant called Emmerson’s Tiffin Room was advertising a more modest daily afternoon tea \u003ca href=\"https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/digitised/article/singfreepressb18980702-1.2.32.2?qt=%22afternoon%20tea%22,%20emmerson&q=%22afternoon%20tea%22%20%22emmerson%27s%22\">as early as 1898\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986151\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986151\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in an elegant dark blue dress with matching floral hat.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_031-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cindy Lee, a guest at Kopi Bar’s “Bridgerton”-themed high tea, poses in the stairwell at BAMPFA. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These initial offerings were mostly geared toward Singapore’s British residents, as well as wealthy travelers visiting from Europe. But the custom of taking afternoon tea was eventually taken up by locals as well — and persisted long after the British left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local expressions of the tradition began as early as the 1960s, says \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kfseetoh/?hl=en\">KF Seetoh\u003c/a>, probably the foremost street food expert in Singapore. Cafes began selling kaya toast and local coffee in the afternoon; curry puffs and pandan cakes also first appeared around this time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These days at Raffles, you’ll find Indian tiffin meals \u003cem>and\u003c/em> tiered trays of high tea offerings, [everything] from the usual British fare to even \u003ca href=\"https://ccs.city/en/chinese-cultural-club/chinese-culinary/nyonya-cake\">Nyonya cakes\u003c/a>,” Seetoh says. “The evolution [can be] credited to finding an identity true to the mishmash of cultures in Singapore — the best of everyone’s kitchens and grandmas’ recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A similar story played out in Malaysia. For Malaya Tea Room owner Leena Lim, going out for tea was an occasional mother-daughter treat she remembers enjoying all through her childhood. Every couple of months, her mother would bring her to afternoon tea at the Shangri-La Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, where she’d marvel at all of the fancy cakes and finger sandwiches.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“It was such an intimate, beautiful experience,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, in the ’80s and ’90s, most of the upscale hotel afternoon tea places in Malaysia still served food that was overwhelmingly British. At most, Lim recalls, maybe one item — say, a curry puff — would nod toward the local food culture. Because afternoon tea at the big hotels was “fancy” and expensive, Lim says even locals \u003cem>wanted\u003c/em> the food to be authentically British. Why would anyone pay so much to eat a Malaysian snack they could buy down the street for just a few ringgits?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lim estimates it’s only in the last 10 years or so that even the fanciest British-style tea rooms in Malaysia and Singapore have started leaning more into local flavors, adding sambals and curries and kuehs (assorted bite-size treats made with glutinous rice) into the mix with the scones and cucumber sandwiches that people still expect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Lim opened Malaya Tea Room in 2019, on a quiet stretch of Central Avenue in Alameda, she wanted it to be more of a hybrid. At the time, she didn’t know of any other businesses that were throwing Asian–inspired afternoon tea parties. Beloved local institutions like Lovejoy’s more or less replicate the British traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/9/14/21436496/malaya-tea-room-afternoon-tea-takeout-box-kaya-jam-rendang-alameda\">Lim wanted to do both\u003c/a>. She planned to do the British stuff just as well as, or maybe even better than, the purely Anglophilic places — to, for instance, be one of the only places that make their clotted cream from scratch. But she also wanted to introduce customers to elegant, afternoon tea versions of some of her favorite Malaysian street snacks — in other words, to serve food that actually tastes \u003cem>good\u003c/em>. (She’d grown to find the British standards to be quite bland and boring.) Her menu included one finger sandwich that’s based on kaya toast, another that combines pork floss with a homemade basil spread, and yet another that features bakkwa (Malaysian pork jerky).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986561\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Three-tiered cake stand with an array of cakes, pastries and finger sandwiches.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_039-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">British-style scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam sit alongside curried potato canapés on gluten-free crackers during afternoon tea at Malaya Tea Room in Alameda on Feb. 6, 2026. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When my family arrived at Malaya on a recent Sunday, the atmosphere inside the cozy tea room was languid and vaguely tropical — lush greenery sprawled in every direction; a ceiling fan spun lazily up above. Nostalgic knickknacks (antique Chinese vases, an abacus, an old Hup Seng cracker tin) decorated the display cabinets. On the table was a little bell to ring when you were ready for your server to come take your order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sandwiches we loved best included the curry chicken, made with coconut milk and a secret spice blend, and a sardine-and-cucumber number that Lim makes by doctoring the canned sardines in tomato sauce that you can buy at Asian grocers. On the sweets side, we enjoyed an airy-light pandan chiffon cake that wasn’t \u003cem>too \u003c/em>sweet — the ultimate compliment for an Asian dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even the egg salad sandwich, which we ordered off the British side of the menu, was uncommonly good — lush with Kewpie mayonnaise and served on fluffy milk bread. It tasted exactly like the ones you get at 7-Eleven in Japan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lim says that’s exactly what she was going for: a familiar flavor that reminds you of childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986559\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"An Asian woman poses in front of a tiered cake stand with pastries and sandwiches.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_034-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leena Lim, owner of Malaya Tea Room, sits behind a table set for afternoon tea. The tea room opened in Alameda in 2019 and has become a destination for specialty tea service in the East Bay. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her business has had its ups and downs over the past seven years, especially with the pandemic hitting just months after it opened. But she’s developed a loyal customer base, and people do seem to better understand Malaya’s afternoon tea offerings now than they did in the shop’s early days. Part of that, she says, just has to do with how much more popular Asian food is these days — how there’s now a cultural cachet to being the sort of person who understands pandan and ube: “Otherwise, it’s like who are you? Do you even live here?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It helps that afternoon tea is the ultimate Instagram-friendly meal. Plus, Lim says, “people love dressing up,” and going out for tea provides a rare opportunity to do that. Every year, she has a big group that comes in cosplaying as anime characters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During our visit, we spotted three elderly women enjoying a quiet conversation, a table of Gen Z Taiwanese ladies chattering happily in Mandarin, and a group of white otaku having an intense debate about \u003cem>Dragon Ball Z\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Now I even get groups of men who come in by themselves,” Lim says. “I think that’s awesome.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tea with a twist\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The bakeries and cafes that offer Asian-style afternoon tea in the Bay Area all have their own charm — and their own little twists on the genre.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little Moon Bakehouse owner Annie Wang says her pop-ups are a natural extension of the fact that she started baking bread for the first time in 2024, adding a variety of Chinese bakery–style buns to her repertoire of plant-based cookies and mooncakes. Unlike Wang’s other baked goods, the breads don’t have long enough of a shelf life to ship nationally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986606\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/LITTLE-MOON-BAKEHOUSE-TEA-PARTY-2025-136-KQED-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Little Moon Bakehouse owner Annie Wang (standing) mingles with guests at her afternoon tea pop-up at the San Francisco Ferry Building on Dec. 14, 2025. Featured items included plant-based mooncakes and mini pork floss buns. \u003ccite>(Phil Stockbridge/SF Event Photo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I realized that this would be great for an experience,” she says. She started renting out venues across the Bay Area to host one-day afternoon tea pop-ups, filling up three-tier cake stands with an equal split of sweet and savory treats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Feb. 22, she’ll host her second tea pop-up in the San Francisco Ferry Building — a \u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/products/afternoon-tea-in-sf-sun-dec-14-ferry-building-copy\">Lunar New Year–themed bash\u003c/a> for 100 guests, seated at long tables that stretch the length of the festive second-floor Grand Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu will include miniature pork floss buns, garlic butter buns, and \u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/products/preorder-soy-sauce-chocolate-citrus-cookie-sandwich-heydoh-x-little-moon-bakehouse\">citrus zest sugar cookies\u003c/a> filled with soy sauce–spiked white chocolate (that one is a collaboration with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/heydoh.co/\">Heydoh\u003c/a>, a Taiwanese American soy sauce brand). In the coming months, she’ll host \u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/collections/afternoon-tea\">additional pop-ups\u003c/a> in SF Chinatown, the Sunset District and San José.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986562\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986562\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Tea kettles, sugar bowls and metal canisters of loose-leaf tea on a wooden credenza.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/020626GOLDEN-AGE-OF-ASIAN-STYLE-HIGH-TEA_GH_042-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Loose-leaf teas line a wooden cabinet at Malaya Tea Room. The tea room serves a wide selection of teas in a space filled with nostalgic antique furnishings. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Jai Kandayah, the owner of Pleasanton’s recently closed \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/curryleavesbistro/?hl=en\">Curry Leaves Bistro\u003c/a>, says he never \u003cem>intended \u003c/em>to serve afternoon tea at his restaurant. He, too, grew up taking afternoon tea in Malaysia, but not the kind served at fancy hotels, which wasn’t accessible for working-class people. For the majority of Malaysians, afternoon tea — or high tea — was more of a home ritual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In Kandayah’s experience, Malaysians are more likely to talk about “high tea” than afternoon tea, referring to a heartier meal eaten later in the afternoon, at perhaps 4 or 5 p.m. after they get home from work — much more practical for working-class folks who can’t leave their jobs to eat cakes for an hour at 2 in the afternoon.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These meals always featured local flavors, Kandayah recalls. “I remember my mom would make a big pot of tea in the afternoon and then usually a savory snack — banana fritters, fried yucca, fried yams, fried taro,” he says. Sometimes the bread man would come around, and they’d buy a loaf and dip the bread in the curry that was left over from lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The local high tea buffets he remembers frequenting as a young man similarly skewed toward Malaysian flavors. Many of them would even serve fried noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But again, Kandayah never had a high tea menu at Curry Leaves Bistro. Instead, regular customers — all of them older Malaysian immigrants — would knock on his door on Friday or Saturday afternoons, when the restaurant was closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People would call and say, ‘Hey, there are eight of us coming in at 4 o’clock after our golf game. Can you prepare some tea and roti, and a plate of noodles?’” Kandayah says. “And we would do that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curry Leaves Bistro wound up closing this past fall after the landlord increased the rent, but Kandayah has already scouted out a new location in the East Bay and hopes to reopen later this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, he says, afternoon tea on the restaurant’s backyard patio is going to come officially baked into the program.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A celebration of immigration\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Kopi Bar has leaned into the cosplay of it all. In addition to her \u003cem>Bridgerton\u003c/em> series, Haron has also hosted Bollywood- and \u003cem>Arabian Nights\u003c/em>–themed afternoon teas, and encourages guests to come dressed up to reflect the theme. People come for Haron’s stellar baked goods, sure. But they also come because the tea parties are joyful and extravagant — an all-out happening, as they say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for Haron, in the current political climate — while masked federal agents whisk soccer moms and five-year-old kids away to far-off detention centers — her tea parties aren’t just some frivolous, let-them-eat-cake moments to cosplay as British aristocrats. They’re important rituals that allow immigrants like her to come together and celebrate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986148\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986148\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A woman in glasses poses inside a cafe.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GOLDENAGEOFASIANSTYLEHIGH-TEA_GH_019-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Nora Haron, owner of Kopi Bar and Bakery, poses in her cafe on the second floor of BAMPFA. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“This idea of ‘illegal’ immigrants being criminals — that’s obnoxious. We’re doing something for the community. You know, we’re bringing people together. We’re creating jobs,” she says. “So it’s wonderful to be able to support one another this way.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, she says, food is intertwined with the immigration process. And traditions like afternoon tea are a vital way for immigrants to maintain their cultural identity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in Singapore and Malaysia, the history of afternoon tea followed the same path as so many other things in Southeast Asia: The colonizers brought it, but locals improved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986547\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986547\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up on a pandan pastry, a cup of tea and a menu for a special high tea event.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/013126GoldenAgeofAsianStyleHigh-Tea_GH_020_qed-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pandan and coconut pastry swirl sits next to Kopi Bar’s “Bridgerton”-inspired high tea menu. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Hernandez/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the food writer Seetoh puts it, “You can still spend over a hundred bucks for the little pinky high teas at posh hotels flavored with affluence, but the majority, even the well-heeled, prefer a kueh salat, curry puff or ang ku kueh at local cafes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It feels more like a Singapore story,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it goes here in the diaspora, as Asian Americans create a new set of traditions replete with sourdough, vegan pork floss and the Bay Area’s own unique sense of swagger. They, too, are making afternoon tea their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kopi Bar’s \u003c/em>Bridgerton \u003cem>high tea series will run every Saturday through Feb. 28, plus an additional date on March 1, with seatings at 11 a.m., 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/a-bridgerton-inspired-high-tea-at-kopi-bar-tickets-1979138513571\">\u003cem>Tickets\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> are limited. The cafe is located on the second floor of BAMPFA, at 2155 Center St. in Berkeley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Little Moon Bakehouse’s Lunar New Year–themed afternoon tea will take place on Feb. 22, 11:30-1:30 p.m., at the SF Ferry Building (1 Ferry Building, San Francisco). \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/products/afternoon-tea-in-sf-sun-dec-14-ferry-building-copy\">\u003cem>Tickets\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> are limited. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://littlemoonbakehouse.com/collections/afternoon-tea\">\u003cem>Future tea events\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> are scheduled to take place in SF Chinatown, the Sunset District, and San José.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://malayatearoom.com/\">\u003cem>Malaya Tea Room\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> has three seatings per day, Thu.-Sun., at 11 a.m., 1:15 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. It’s located at 920 Central Ave. in Alameda.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>One of the most memorable breakfasts of my life was at a small sushi stall at the old Tsukiji fish market in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/japan\">Tokyo\u003c/a>, where I dug into a big wooden tub of rice topped with a mountain of incredibly fresh-tasting \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/japanese-food\">uni, ikura and fatty tuna\u003c/a>. It was just past eight o’clock in the morning. After I’d devoured most of the raw seafood, the shopkeeper poured hot dashi over the last little bit so I could slurp it up like the most exquisite rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it a typical Japanophile’s romanticized tourist experience, but for years I’ve thought about that bowl of seafood. I never found anything quite like it in the Bay Area until a couple of weeks ago when I stumbled on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yaichi_restaurant/\">Yaichi\u003c/a>, a newish restaurant specializing in fresh seafood bowls, or kaisendon, in the Ulferts Center shopping plaza in Milpitas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986367\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986367\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a restaurant. The blue curtain hanging in the doorway reads, \"Yaichi Japanese Udon & Seafood Bowl.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is located in the Ulferts Center shopping plaza in Milpitas. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since this past fall, Yaichi sells three progressively luxed-up versions of its sushi bowl. The basic “Ume” bowl ($26) comes piled extravagantly high with minced yellowfin tuna, flying fish roe, scallops and a plump morsel of snow crab leg meat. The more premium bowls ($32 and $41, respectively) add a generous scattering of ikura (marinated salmon roe) and Hokkaido sea urchin to the mix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beginner-friendly instructions displayed on every table teach first-timers how to best enjoy the kaisen don: First, place some of the rice and seafood on a piece of dried seaweed, wrapping it up to eat like a sushi hand roll. Then, mix together some wasabi and house-brewed soy sauce and pour it over the remaining seafood. The briny pop of the ikura and the buttery ocean umami of the uni make for an especially delicious combination when stirred into the warm rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986366\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986366\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese seafood bowl piled high with salmon roe, sea urchin and other assorted raw seafood.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another view of the “Matsu” bowl — the fanciest and most expensive of Yaichi’s seafood bowls. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Toward the end of the meal, you can add the optional ochazuke set ($4.50), which comes with shredded shiso, seaweed, tiny rice cracker balls and a single piece of salmon sashimi. Add all that into what’s left of your bowl (make sure you save some of the rice!) and then pour hot dashi over everything, transforming the sushi bowl into a gentle, cozy soup that warms you up from the inside. In that way, diners get to enjoy their kaisendon as two totally different dishes in one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is the brainchild of Tokyo-raised chef-owner Nobu Kashima, who also runs Leichi, a popular izakaya in Santa Clara. In Japan, he explains, you can find kaisendon at casual izakayas, at beachside seafood restaurants and — perhaps most commonly for foreign tourists — at fish market kiosks like the one I ate at Tsikiji. In recent years, popular, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_XZH2zz_pE/?hl=en&img_index=1\">Instagram-friendly kaisendon chains\u003c/a> in Tokyo have been known to draw two-hour lines during the dinner rush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, though, Kashima says he hasn’t really seen any restaurants specializing in these giant seafood bowls, though you might find a more modest version on the menu at certain sushi restaurants or izakayas. What’s much more common are chirashi bowls, which feature a variety of sashimi scattered on top of a bowl or bento box of vinegared sushi rice. Kaisendon like Yaichi’s, on the other hand, usually comes with plain, unseasoned rice, which makes it more suitable for the ochazuke treatment — also a relative rarity in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986371\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986371\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of dashi broth with seafood and rice.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The optional ochuzuke set gives diners an additional way to enjoy the meal. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Apart from the seafood bowls, Yaichi offers a concise selection of izakaya-style appetizers, my favorite of which was the delightful DIY Japanese potato salad, which comes with a little mortar and wooden pestle. You pound the potatoes to your preferred texture before mixing in the mayonnaise, cucumber, onion, soft-boiled egg and your choice of ham or salted cod roe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13986256,arts_13926203,arts_13957143']Eventually, the restaurant’s other main specialty will be udon. Kashimi says he’s in the process of importing a noodle machine from Japan so that he can make the udon fresh in-house. Both the noodles and the broth will be made according to the Sanuki style from Kanagawa Prefecture. The noodles are meant to be particularly chewy, and the broth will have a strong fish flavor from dried sardines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kanishi says he’s hoping the udon will be available within the coming month. At that point, the emphasis of the restaurant will be split evenly between the udon and the seafood rice bowls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people really like noodles,” he says. “But if you’re eating noodles every day, you miss the rice. That’s why I want to do both.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://yaichi.netlify.app/\">\u003ci>Yaichi\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open daily 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4:30–8:30 p.m., except for Tuesdays, when the restaurant is closed. It’s located in the Ulferts Center at 668 Barber Ln. in Milpitas.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>One of the most memorable breakfasts of my life was at a small sushi stall at the old Tsukiji fish market in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/japan\">Tokyo\u003c/a>, where I dug into a big wooden tub of rice topped with a mountain of incredibly fresh-tasting \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/japanese-food\">uni, ikura and fatty tuna\u003c/a>. It was just past eight o’clock in the morning. After I’d devoured most of the raw seafood, the shopkeeper poured hot dashi over the last little bit so I could slurp it up like the most exquisite rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it a typical Japanophile’s romanticized tourist experience, but for years I’ve thought about that bowl of seafood. I never found anything quite like it in the Bay Area until a couple of weeks ago when I stumbled on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yaichi_restaurant/\">Yaichi\u003c/a>, a newish restaurant specializing in fresh seafood bowls, or kaisendon, in the Ulferts Center shopping plaza in Milpitas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986367\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986367\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a restaurant. The blue curtain hanging in the doorway reads, \"Yaichi Japanese Udon & Seafood Bowl.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-exterior-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant is located in the Ulferts Center shopping plaza in Milpitas. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Open since this past fall, Yaichi sells three progressively luxed-up versions of its sushi bowl. The basic “Ume” bowl ($26) comes piled extravagantly high with minced yellowfin tuna, flying fish roe, scallops and a plump morsel of snow crab leg meat. The more premium bowls ($32 and $41, respectively) add a generous scattering of ikura (marinated salmon roe) and Hokkaido sea urchin to the mix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beginner-friendly instructions displayed on every table teach first-timers how to best enjoy the kaisen don: First, place some of the rice and seafood on a piece of dried seaweed, wrapping it up to eat like a sushi hand roll. Then, mix together some wasabi and house-brewed soy sauce and pour it over the remaining seafood. The briny pop of the ikura and the buttery ocean umami of the uni make for an especially delicious combination when stirred into the warm rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986366\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986366\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese seafood bowl piled high with salmon roe, sea urchin and other assorted raw seafood.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-closeup-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another view of the “Matsu” bowl — the fanciest and most expensive of Yaichi’s seafood bowls. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Toward the end of the meal, you can add the optional ochazuke set ($4.50), which comes with shredded shiso, seaweed, tiny rice cracker balls and a single piece of salmon sashimi. Add all that into what’s left of your bowl (make sure you save some of the rice!) and then pour hot dashi over everything, transforming the sushi bowl into a gentle, cozy soup that warms you up from the inside. In that way, diners get to enjoy their kaisendon as two totally different dishes in one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant is the brainchild of Tokyo-raised chef-owner Nobu Kashima, who also runs Leichi, a popular izakaya in Santa Clara. In Japan, he explains, you can find kaisendon at casual izakayas, at beachside seafood restaurants and — perhaps most commonly for foreign tourists — at fish market kiosks like the one I ate at Tsikiji. In recent years, popular, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/C_XZH2zz_pE/?hl=en&img_index=1\">Instagram-friendly kaisendon chains\u003c/a> in Tokyo have been known to draw two-hour lines during the dinner rush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, though, Kashima says he hasn’t really seen any restaurants specializing in these giant seafood bowls, though you might find a more modest version on the menu at certain sushi restaurants or izakayas. What’s much more common are chirashi bowls, which feature a variety of sashimi scattered on top of a bowl or bento box of vinegared sushi rice. Kaisendon like Yaichi’s, on the other hand, usually comes with plain, unseasoned rice, which makes it more suitable for the ochazuke treatment — also a relative rarity in the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986371\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986371\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of dashi broth with seafood and rice.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/yaichi-ochuzuke-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The optional ochuzuke set gives diners an additional way to enjoy the meal. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Apart from the seafood bowls, Yaichi offers a concise selection of izakaya-style appetizers, my favorite of which was the delightful DIY Japanese potato salad, which comes with a little mortar and wooden pestle. You pound the potatoes to your preferred texture before mixing in the mayonnaise, cucumber, onion, soft-boiled egg and your choice of ham or salted cod roe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Eventually, the restaurant’s other main specialty will be udon. Kashimi says he’s in the process of importing a noodle machine from Japan so that he can make the udon fresh in-house. Both the noodles and the broth will be made according to the Sanuki style from Kanagawa Prefecture. The noodles are meant to be particularly chewy, and the broth will have a strong fish flavor from dried sardines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kanishi says he’s hoping the udon will be available within the coming month. At that point, the emphasis of the restaurant will be split evenly between the udon and the seafood rice bowls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people really like noodles,” he says. “But if you’re eating noodles every day, you miss the rice. That’s why I want to do both.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://yaichi.netlify.app/\">\u003ci>Yaichi\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open daily 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4:30–8:30 p.m., except for Tuesdays, when the restaurant is closed. It’s located in the Ulferts Center at 668 Barber Ln. in Milpitas.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "cheap-cantonese-restaurant-richmond-east-bay-grand-cafe-dim-sum-claypot-rice",
"title": "This Hong Kong Cafe Might Be the East Bay’s Most Affordable New Restaurant",
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"content": "\u003cp>The Target plaza off Macdonald Avenue isn’t the first place you’d think of when planning a lunch excursion in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/richmond\">Richmond\u003c/a>. After all, this is the domain of better-than-replacement-level fast food (i.e., Wingstop and Panda Express), not anyone’s idea of destination dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it was something of a surprise when, a few weeks ago, I stepped into the plaza’s newest restaurant, Grand Cafe, and found a packed dining room. Almost all of the diners were Chinese seniors, a demographic I’ve rarely encountered on this side of town. Everyone was bent over steaming hot bowls of claypot rice and wonton noodle soup. Somehow, it seems, I’d stumbled into a proper Hong Kong–style cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kicker? Nothing on the menu was priced at more than $10.75. Several entrées, in fact, were just $7 or $8, undercutting the Panda Express next door. At a time when affordability has reached a crisis point for so many Bay Area families, Grand Cafe might just be the East Bay’s most reasonably priced new restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the restaurant moved to Richmond this past summer after its \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/grand-cafe-south-san-francisco\">original South San Francisco location\u003c/a> closed. During my first visit, I decided to try the claypot rice with spare ribs and preserved sausage ($10.75), a Cantonese classic. It came loaded with meat and tender-crisp greens, with a little dish of sweet seasoned soy sauce to pour on top, and the rice was properly crackly and crispy on the edges. It was delicious — if anything, a little less decadently oily and salty than my favorite versions, and more like something a home cook would serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986262\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986262\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice.jpg\" alt=\"Claypot rice and a plate of beef chow fun on cafeteria-style trays.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Both the claypot rice and the beef chow fun came with complimentary soup and hot soy milk. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The value, on the other hand, was hard to top. All dine-in customers get a free cup of hot tea or unsweetened soy milk, the latter of which I doctored up to my liking with sugar. My meal also came with a complimentary bowl of pork bone soup — savory and soothing, loaded with leafy greens. An order of dry-cooked beef chow fun (also $10.75) — a solid, generously portioned rendition — came with all of the same extras.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the tradeoffs for Grand Cafe’s bargain-basement prices is a very DIY approach to service. The dining room — sparsely decorated, apart from a lone Bruce Lee poster in the corner — is set up somewhat cafeteria-style. Food comes out on trays; utensils, condiments and to-go containers are all laid out neatly on a shelf for you to help yourself. A large wire shelving unit along the opposite wall has enough space for a couple dozen diners to bus their trays and dishes when they’re done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, a sign taped to the front counter reads, “No Tips Needed,” and stresses that food might take 10 to 20 minutes to come out, since every dish is cooked to order. Over a handful of visits, I never had to wait nearly that long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986263\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese restaurant menu pinned on the wall.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of Grand Cafe’s menu, which is posted on the wall. As of January 2026, no item was priced higher than $10.75. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike a full-on traditional Hong Kong–style \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cha_chaan_teng\">cha chaan teng\u003c/a>, Grand Cafe only offers a couple of Western-style dishes — a spaghetti with meat sauce I’ve yet to try, for instance. And my sense is that the menu, with its assortment of noodle dishes, rice plates, jook and snacky dim sum, is a bit too broad for \u003ci>every\u003c/i> item to be a hit. (I’d still go to a proper dim sum house for pan-fried daikon cakes or steamed rice rolls.) And the seasoning tends to be on the mild side, which is part of the restaurant’s appeal to Chinese elders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13950577,arts_13974383']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The prices, of course, are hard to beat. Beef brisket noodle soup for $8.75? Pork and preserved egg porridge for less than $6? Grand Cafe might not be a destination restaurant, but if you live in the neighborhood, as I do, it’s easy to imagine it becoming a weekly lunchtime staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though the restaurant has already been open for seven months, it still seems to have a perpetual stream of people poking their head in for the first time, surprised they’ve never seen the place before. Partly, that’s because of Grand Cafe’s somewhat unlikely location and limited hours — it closes at 2 p.m. every day. The owners also seem to have no interest in marketing the business, politely but firmly declining my requests for an interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re already too busy,” the woman at the counter, who seemed like she might be the owner, told me. For now, she’s more than content to just serve the crowd of local regulars.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Grand Cafe is open Wednesday to Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–2 p.m., at 4250 Macdonald Ave. Ste. D.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Target plaza off Macdonald Avenue isn’t the first place you’d think of when planning a lunch excursion in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/richmond\">Richmond\u003c/a>. After all, this is the domain of better-than-replacement-level fast food (i.e., Wingstop and Panda Express), not anyone’s idea of destination dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it was something of a surprise when, a few weeks ago, I stepped into the plaza’s newest restaurant, Grand Cafe, and found a packed dining room. Almost all of the diners were Chinese seniors, a demographic I’ve rarely encountered on this side of town. Everyone was bent over steaming hot bowls of claypot rice and wonton noodle soup. Somehow, it seems, I’d stumbled into a proper Hong Kong–style cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kicker? Nothing on the menu was priced at more than $10.75. Several entrées, in fact, were just $7 or $8, undercutting the Panda Express next door. At a time when affordability has reached a crisis point for so many Bay Area families, Grand Cafe might just be the East Bay’s most reasonably priced new restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, the restaurant moved to Richmond this past summer after its \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/grand-cafe-south-san-francisco\">original South San Francisco location\u003c/a> closed. During my first visit, I decided to try the claypot rice with spare ribs and preserved sausage ($10.75), a Cantonese classic. It came loaded with meat and tender-crisp greens, with a little dish of sweet seasoned soy sauce to pour on top, and the rice was properly crackly and crispy on the edges. It was delicious — if anything, a little less decadently oily and salty than my favorite versions, and more like something a home cook would serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986262\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986262\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice.jpg\" alt=\"Claypot rice and a plate of beef chow fun on cafeteria-style trays.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-claypot-rice-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Both the claypot rice and the beef chow fun came with complimentary soup and hot soy milk. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The value, on the other hand, was hard to top. All dine-in customers get a free cup of hot tea or unsweetened soy milk, the latter of which I doctored up to my liking with sugar. My meal also came with a complimentary bowl of pork bone soup — savory and soothing, loaded with leafy greens. An order of dry-cooked beef chow fun (also $10.75) — a solid, generously portioned rendition — came with all of the same extras.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the tradeoffs for Grand Cafe’s bargain-basement prices is a very DIY approach to service. The dining room — sparsely decorated, apart from a lone Bruce Lee poster in the corner — is set up somewhat cafeteria-style. Food comes out on trays; utensils, condiments and to-go containers are all laid out neatly on a shelf for you to help yourself. A large wire shelving unit along the opposite wall has enough space for a couple dozen diners to bus their trays and dishes when they’re done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, a sign taped to the front counter reads, “No Tips Needed,” and stresses that food might take 10 to 20 minutes to come out, since every dish is cooked to order. Over a handful of visits, I never had to wait nearly that long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13986263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13986263\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese restaurant menu pinned on the wall.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/02/grand-cafe-menu-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of Grand Cafe’s menu, which is posted on the wall. As of January 2026, no item was priced higher than $10.75. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike a full-on traditional Hong Kong–style \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cha_chaan_teng\">cha chaan teng\u003c/a>, Grand Cafe only offers a couple of Western-style dishes — a spaghetti with meat sauce I’ve yet to try, for instance. And my sense is that the menu, with its assortment of noodle dishes, rice plates, jook and snacky dim sum, is a bit too broad for \u003ci>every\u003c/i> item to be a hit. (I’d still go to a proper dim sum house for pan-fried daikon cakes or steamed rice rolls.) And the seasoning tends to be on the mild side, which is part of the restaurant’s appeal to Chinese elders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The prices, of course, are hard to beat. Beef brisket noodle soup for $8.75? Pork and preserved egg porridge for less than $6? Grand Cafe might not be a destination restaurant, but if you live in the neighborhood, as I do, it’s easy to imagine it becoming a weekly lunchtime staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though the restaurant has already been open for seven months, it still seems to have a perpetual stream of people poking their head in for the first time, surprised they’ve never seen the place before. Partly, that’s because of Grand Cafe’s somewhat unlikely location and limited hours — it closes at 2 p.m. every day. The owners also seem to have no interest in marketing the business, politely but firmly declining my requests for an interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re already too busy,” the woman at the counter, who seemed like she might be the owner, told me. For now, she’s more than content to just serve the crowd of local regulars.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Grand Cafe is open Wednesday to Sunday, 10:30 a.m.–2 p.m., at 4250 Macdonald Ave. Ste. D.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>A half-mile stretch on the outskirts of south downtown San José has become a hotbed for food trucks from across Latin America. In the past two years, new trucks have launched specializing in corn cachapas from Venezuela, tender nacatamales from Nicaragua, and, as of last May, the slow-cooked stews and savory mashed plantains of the Dominican Republic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrapped in the characteristic blue, red and white of the Dominican flag, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elfogongeny/\">El Fogon d’Geny\u003c/a> truck shares a small, picnic table–lined lot with a few other food trucks. Its arrival is great news for fans of Caribbean food: Dominican dishes used to be nearly impossible to come by in the Bay Area. Now, El Fogon d’Geny is putting in the work to introduce the cuisine’s hearty flavors to the South Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Vanessa Rodríguez was born in Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic, but grew up in Nagua, a smaller city on the island’s northeastern coast. As a child, she learned to cook alongside her mother, grandmother and aunts. In 2002, she moved to Bávaro, Punta Cana, a more touristy area where she began her career as a professional cook. Over the years, she blended what she learned working in restaurant kitchens with her family’s recipes to develop her own style centered on patient, low-and-slow cooking and aggressive seasoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After immigrating to San José in 2016, she continued working at restaurants and, seeing the lack of Dominican representation, felt inspired to introduce her cuisine to the Bay. Three years ago, she finally gave it a shot, giving away plates of Dominican fried chicken to neighbors and friends. Eventually, she launched a home-based food business, selling habichuelas guisadas and moro de guandules via social media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985941\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985941\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez.jpg\" alt=\"A woman with long braids poses for a portrait in front on her food truck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vanessa Rodríguez launched her food truck business in May of 2025. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Starting a business here isn’t as easy as it is in my country,” says Rodríguez, “I saw it as a difficult dream to achieve, but I did it. Here I am.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The number one reason to visit El Fogon d’Geny is to devour a plate of mofongo. While the savory plantain dish originated in Puerto Rican, it’s also popular in the Dominican Republic. Rodríguez says it’s the most difficult item on her menu to prepare, as she incorporates several personal twists. Traditionally, mofongo is made by frying green plantains, then mashing them with garlic and chicharrón. Rodríguez shapes her version into a crater and fries it to develop a crispy exterior that contrasts the fluffy, meaty interior. It’s topped with shrimp, sliced cheese and a creamy sauce that overflows onto the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also try the distinctly Dominican take on mashed plantains called mangú, in which green plantains are boiled instead of fried before mashing. Rodriguez serves it as part of a traditional Dominican breakfast known as los tres golpes.The mangú has a texture reminiscent of refried beans but even creamier. It comes with fried eggs, two crisped slices of Dominican salami (like extremely beefy-tasting sausage patties) and slabs of fresh cheese that are fried until golden on the outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985942\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985942\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes.jpg\" alt=\"A plate with mashed plantains, fried eggs, and sliced of fried salami.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Los tres golpes, a popular Dominican breakfast dish. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>El Fogon d’Geny’s menu highlights a host of other Dominican specialties like habichuelas con dulce (sweet beans), pica pollo (fried chicken) and sancocho (a hearty stew). Rodríguez wanted to offer a large variety of dishes to reach as many people as possible. “I have Dominican and Latino clients, but there’s also a lot of people that aren’t familiar with the food,” says Rodríguez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13977950,arts_13977033,arts_13971280']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>For those trying Dominican food for the first time, she recommends La Bandera Dominicana — a home-style plate loaded with tostones, fried yuca balls, habichuelas and a choice of stewed meat. It also includes a scoop of white rice and a piece of crunchy fried rice known as concón. The dish’s colorful components correspond to the red, white and blue of the Dominican flag. Being a first-timer to the cuisine myself, I opted for La Bandera Dominicana with chicken, which turned out to be fall-off-the-bone thighs and drumettes. My favorite bites on the plate were the surprisingly savory cheese-stuffed bolitos de yuca.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As one of the Bay Area’s only ambassadors of the cuisine, Rodríguez is dedicated to replicating the flavors of the Dominican Republic as closely as possible, importing spices, fresh chiles and cured meats from the island. Her crispy, highly seasoned fried chicken is made with several imported ingredients like adobo, sazón and ají gustoso (a sweet, fruity chile). One of her most popular rotating specials is the sancocho, a soup made with a medley of root vegetables and both fresh and cured meats. She also offers a wide selection of Dominican drinks like chinola (passionfruit), lechoza (papaya shake) and morir soñando (a creamy orange shake).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985943\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985943\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of fried chicken and tostones.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Fogon D’geny’s crispy, highly seasoned Dominican-style fried chicken. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the end, what comes across most strongly is Rodriguez’s passion for her country, which shines through in the miniature Dominican flags she uses to decorate every dish and the selection of traditional Dominican snacks she keeps on display. She says her favorite compliment is when customers say that her food makes them want to visit the Dominican Republic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel very proud to represent my country,” says Rodríguez. “It’s an honor to share our culture and food with the people here. I hope La Bandera Dominicana can become a part of California’s gastronomy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>El Fogon d’Geny is currently open from 10:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. every day except Tuesdays at 796 S. 1st St. in San José. Check the truck’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elfogongeny/\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for its most up-to-date schedule. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A half-mile stretch on the outskirts of south downtown San José has become a hotbed for food trucks from across Latin America. In the past two years, new trucks have launched specializing in corn cachapas from Venezuela, tender nacatamales from Nicaragua, and, as of last May, the slow-cooked stews and savory mashed plantains of the Dominican Republic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrapped in the characteristic blue, red and white of the Dominican flag, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elfogongeny/\">El Fogon d’Geny\u003c/a> truck shares a small, picnic table–lined lot with a few other food trucks. Its arrival is great news for fans of Caribbean food: Dominican dishes used to be nearly impossible to come by in the Bay Area. Now, El Fogon d’Geny is putting in the work to introduce the cuisine’s hearty flavors to the South Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Vanessa Rodríguez was born in Santo Domingo, the capital of the Dominican Republic, but grew up in Nagua, a smaller city on the island’s northeastern coast. As a child, she learned to cook alongside her mother, grandmother and aunts. In 2002, she moved to Bávaro, Punta Cana, a more touristy area where she began her career as a professional cook. Over the years, she blended what she learned working in restaurant kitchens with her family’s recipes to develop her own style centered on patient, low-and-slow cooking and aggressive seasoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After immigrating to San José in 2016, she continued working at restaurants and, seeing the lack of Dominican representation, felt inspired to introduce her cuisine to the Bay. Three years ago, she finally gave it a shot, giving away plates of Dominican fried chicken to neighbors and friends. Eventually, she launched a home-based food business, selling habichuelas guisadas and moro de guandules via social media.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985941\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985941\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez.jpg\" alt=\"A woman with long braids poses for a portrait in front on her food truck.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Vanessa-Rodriguez-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vanessa Rodríguez launched her food truck business in May of 2025. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Starting a business here isn’t as easy as it is in my country,” says Rodríguez, “I saw it as a difficult dream to achieve, but I did it. Here I am.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The number one reason to visit El Fogon d’Geny is to devour a plate of mofongo. While the savory plantain dish originated in Puerto Rican, it’s also popular in the Dominican Republic. Rodríguez says it’s the most difficult item on her menu to prepare, as she incorporates several personal twists. Traditionally, mofongo is made by frying green plantains, then mashing them with garlic and chicharrón. Rodríguez shapes her version into a crater and fries it to develop a crispy exterior that contrasts the fluffy, meaty interior. It’s topped with shrimp, sliced cheese and a creamy sauce that overflows onto the plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can also try the distinctly Dominican take on mashed plantains called mangú, in which green plantains are boiled instead of fried before mashing. Rodriguez serves it as part of a traditional Dominican breakfast known as los tres golpes.The mangú has a texture reminiscent of refried beans but even creamier. It comes with fried eggs, two crisped slices of Dominican salami (like extremely beefy-tasting sausage patties) and slabs of fresh cheese that are fried until golden on the outside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985942\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985942\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes.jpg\" alt=\"A plate with mashed plantains, fried eggs, and sliced of fried salami.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Los-Tres-Golpes-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Los tres golpes, a popular Dominican breakfast dish. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>El Fogon d’Geny’s menu highlights a host of other Dominican specialties like habichuelas con dulce (sweet beans), pica pollo (fried chicken) and sancocho (a hearty stew). Rodríguez wanted to offer a large variety of dishes to reach as many people as possible. “I have Dominican and Latino clients, but there’s also a lot of people that aren’t familiar with the food,” says Rodríguez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>For those trying Dominican food for the first time, she recommends La Bandera Dominicana — a home-style plate loaded with tostones, fried yuca balls, habichuelas and a choice of stewed meat. It also includes a scoop of white rice and a piece of crunchy fried rice known as concón. The dish’s colorful components correspond to the red, white and blue of the Dominican flag. Being a first-timer to the cuisine myself, I opted for La Bandera Dominicana with chicken, which turned out to be fall-off-the-bone thighs and drumettes. My favorite bites on the plate were the surprisingly savory cheese-stuffed bolitos de yuca.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As one of the Bay Area’s only ambassadors of the cuisine, Rodríguez is dedicated to replicating the flavors of the Dominican Republic as closely as possible, importing spices, fresh chiles and cured meats from the island. Her crispy, highly seasoned fried chicken is made with several imported ingredients like adobo, sazón and ají gustoso (a sweet, fruity chile). One of her most popular rotating specials is the sancocho, a soup made with a medley of root vegetables and both fresh and cured meats. She also offers a wide selection of Dominican drinks like chinola (passionfruit), lechoza (papaya shake) and morir soñando (a creamy orange shake).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985943\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985943\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of fried chicken and tostones.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Pica-Pollo-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Fogon D’geny’s crispy, highly seasoned Dominican-style fried chicken. \u003ccite>(Octavio Peña)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the end, what comes across most strongly is Rodriguez’s passion for her country, which shines through in the miniature Dominican flags she uses to decorate every dish and the selection of traditional Dominican snacks she keeps on display. She says her favorite compliment is when customers say that her food makes them want to visit the Dominican Republic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel very proud to represent my country,” says Rodríguez. “It’s an honor to share our culture and food with the people here. I hope La Bandera Dominicana can become a part of California’s gastronomy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>El Fogon d’Geny is currently open from 10:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. every day except Tuesdays at 796 S. 1st St. in San José. Check the truck’s \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elfogongeny/\">\u003ci>Instagram page\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for its most up-to-date schedule. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "smokehouse-berkeley-late-night-burgers-hot-dogs-shakes",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985783\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985783\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smokehouse specializes in fire-grilled burgers and hot dogs. The Berkeley staple stays open until midnight on weekends. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brianabreaks/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Briana Loewinsohn\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> joined the burger party.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lit up like a beacon on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/berkeley\">Berkeley\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">Smokehouse\u003c/a> is a picture-postcard image of a classic American burger shack: the big, red, retro diner–style sign; the no-frills menu; the string lights twinkling over the cluster of picnic tables in back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent chilly Friday night, we could smell the smoke and the charred meat from all the way down the block. Jackpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d come because we were in the mood for a fast food–style char-grilled burger — and, like generations of Berkleyans before us, we knew that Smokehouse was \u003ci>the \u003c/i>spot to satisfy that craving, especially after 10 or 11 o’clock at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open since 1951, the restaurant has a frozen-in-time quality that we found incredibly charming. The one of us who’d been a Smokehouse regular as a high schooler in the ’90s spotted only a handful of visible changes: Now, you order outside from a guy manning a tablet set up on a wheelie cart instead of lining up inside the restaurant itself. There’s now an Impossible Burger on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/menu/\">menu\u003c/a>. And, after a \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2020/11/20/the-smokehouse-berkeley-burger-restaurant-reopening\">post-fire renovation\u003c/a> during the pandemic, the grassy back patio has gotten a nice little makeover — if you come earlier in the day, there are always a bunch of kids running around on the lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other gesture to modernity: Smokehouse now has one of those \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/IndustrialDesign/comments/hlr50d/what_you_guys_think_about_this_freestyle_coke/\">Coke Freestyle machines\u003c/a> — a relatively rare sighting in the non-movie-theater wilds — adding 60-some flavors’ worth of whimsy and mad science to your burger shop experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Otherwise, the place feels more or less the same as it always has. Even as the prices have crept up over the years, the burgers and hot dogs are still shockingly inexpensive by Bay Area standards — less than $9, for instance, for a double cheeseburger. Now, as always, the restaurant is the kind of place where \u003ci>everyone \u003c/i>in Berkeley goes. During our visit, we saw a multi-generational Filipino family, a handful of elderly couples who seemed like they lived in the neighborhood, a pack of teens, a couple of professor types, and several college kids enjoying the last gasp of their winter break. It was a nice, welcoming vibe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985784\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985784\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a burger shack lit up at night. The retro-style red sign reads, \"Smokehouse.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has been open on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey since 1951. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s be real, though: If you’ve come to Smokehouse, it’s probably because you want to see your food get set on fire. The big sign outside touts the restaurant’s “flame-grilled” hot dogs and burgers, and that’s something the line cooks take seriously. Every minute or so, the entire grill bursts into massive flames, engulfing everything on it. And that’s the taste I crave: The cheeseburgers at Smokehouse are super-simple (my order is lettuce, diced onion, caramelized onion, hold the tomato, add a little tub of cherry peppers on the side), but the deep smoky, charred flavor that they get on the patties is tough to beat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13985042,arts_13983249,arts_13954597']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The fire-grilling also makes for some of the tastiest hot dogs in town — snappy and juicy, but with that extra dimension of smokiness like you get when you cook over a campfire. (Be forewarned that when they ask if you want everything on your hot dog, they really do mean \u003ci>everything \u003c/i>— we probably could have done with a little less relish, onions and ketchup.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it went with the rest of what we ordered. Everything was better, or at least as good, as it needed to be: the thick-cut fries that were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The extra-crunchy, frizzled onion rings that were cooked perfectly so you could bite through them cleanly. The savory, bean-forward chili with exactly the right texture for adhering to your fries or hot dog. The just-thick-enough straight chocolate shake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not a “gourmet” destination meal by any stretch. But on many, many nights, it’s exactly the meal that hits the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">\u003ci>Smokehouse\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Mon. to Thursday 10:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 10:30 a.m.–midnight and Sun. 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. at 3115 Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Smokehouse Is a Berkeley Classic for Late-Night Burgers and Shakes | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985783\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985783\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_1-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smokehouse specializes in fire-grilled burgers and hot dogs. The Berkeley staple stays open until midnight on weekends. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/the-midnight-diners\">\u003ci>The Midnight Diners\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novelist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thiendog/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Thien Pham\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco carts and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene. This week, guest artist \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/brianabreaks/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Briana Loewinsohn\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> joined the burger party.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lit up like a beacon on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey in \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/berkeley\">Berkeley\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">Smokehouse\u003c/a> is a picture-postcard image of a classic American burger shack: the big, red, retro diner–style sign; the no-frills menu; the string lights twinkling over the cluster of picnic tables in back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent chilly Friday night, we could smell the smoke and the charred meat from all the way down the block. Jackpot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’d come because we were in the mood for a fast food–style char-grilled burger — and, like generations of Berkleyans before us, we knew that Smokehouse was \u003ci>the \u003c/i>spot to satisfy that craving, especially after 10 or 11 o’clock at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open since 1951, the restaurant has a frozen-in-time quality that we found incredibly charming. The one of us who’d been a Smokehouse regular as a high schooler in the ’90s spotted only a handful of visible changes: Now, you order outside from a guy manning a tablet set up on a wheelie cart instead of lining up inside the restaurant itself. There’s now an Impossible Burger on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/menu/\">menu\u003c/a>. And, after a \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2020/11/20/the-smokehouse-berkeley-burger-restaurant-reopening\">post-fire renovation\u003c/a> during the pandemic, the grassy back patio has gotten a nice little makeover — if you come earlier in the day, there are always a bunch of kids running around on the lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other gesture to modernity: Smokehouse now has one of those \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/IndustrialDesign/comments/hlr50d/what_you_guys_think_about_this_freestyle_coke/\">Coke Freestyle machines\u003c/a> — a relatively rare sighting in the non-movie-theater wilds — adding 60-some flavors’ worth of whimsy and mad science to your burger shop experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Otherwise, the place feels more or less the same as it always has. Even as the prices have crept up over the years, the burgers and hot dogs are still shockingly inexpensive by Bay Area standards — less than $9, for instance, for a double cheeseburger. Now, as always, the restaurant is the kind of place where \u003ci>everyone \u003c/i>in Berkeley goes. During our visit, we saw a multi-generational Filipino family, a handful of elderly couples who seemed like they lived in the neighborhood, a pack of teens, a couple of professor types, and several college kids enjoying the last gasp of their winter break. It was a nice, welcoming vibe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985784\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985784\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg\" alt='Exterior of a burger shack lit up at night. The retro-style red sign reads, \"Smokehouse.\"' width=\"2000\" height=\"2000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-768x768.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/Smokehouse_2-1536x1536.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant has been open on the corner of Telegraph and Woolsey since 1951. \u003ccite>(Briana Loewinsohn)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Let’s be real, though: If you’ve come to Smokehouse, it’s probably because you want to see your food get set on fire. The big sign outside touts the restaurant’s “flame-grilled” hot dogs and burgers, and that’s something the line cooks take seriously. Every minute or so, the entire grill bursts into massive flames, engulfing everything on it. And that’s the taste I crave: The cheeseburgers at Smokehouse are super-simple (my order is lettuce, diced onion, caramelized onion, hold the tomato, add a little tub of cherry peppers on the side), but the deep smoky, charred flavor that they get on the patties is tough to beat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The fire-grilling also makes for some of the tastiest hot dogs in town — snappy and juicy, but with that extra dimension of smokiness like you get when you cook over a campfire. (Be forewarned that when they ask if you want everything on your hot dog, they really do mean \u003ci>everything \u003c/i>— we probably could have done with a little less relish, onions and ketchup.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it went with the rest of what we ordered. Everything was better, or at least as good, as it needed to be: the thick-cut fries that were crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The extra-crunchy, frizzled onion rings that were cooked perfectly so you could bite through them cleanly. The savory, bean-forward chili with exactly the right texture for adhering to your fries or hot dog. The just-thick-enough straight chocolate shake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s not a “gourmet” destination meal by any stretch. But on many, many nights, it’s exactly the meal that hits the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eatsmokehouse.com/\">\u003ci>Smokehouse\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is open Mon. to Thursday 10:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 10:30 a.m.–midnight and Sun. 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. at 3115 Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "san-franciscos-biggest-night-market-plans-a-triumphant-return",
"title": "San Francisco’s Biggest Night Market Plans a Triumphant Return",
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"content": "\u003cp>For a couple Friday nights in August and September of 2024, some 20,000 visitors descended on the west end of San Francisco for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11961526/smiles-and-slurps-san-franciscos-sunset-neighborhood-night-market-kicks-off\">Sunset Night Market\u003c/a> — maybe the biggest, splashiest night market the city had ever seen, occupying a whopping seven blocks of Irving Street. There were lion dancers in full regalia. Lamb skewers and prehistoric-sized turkey legs served hot off the grill. Stinky tofu and durian eating contests. Martin Yan even \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_bob2XybFq/\">made an appearance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Asian-style night markets continued their emergence as the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11961526/smiles-and-slurps-san-franciscos-sunset-neighborhood-night-market-kicks-off\">single most popular format for community events\u003c/a>, many looked forward to seeing what new offerings the Sunset Night Market had in store for 2025. But the new season never got off the ground, as the market’s organizers struggled with funding and blowback from some of the businesses in the neighborhood. In June, organizers announced that the night market would be \u003ca href=\"https://missionlocal.org/2025/06/sf-sunset-night-market-faces-uncertain-fate/\">put “on pause” \u003c/a>for the rest of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the Sunset Night Market is back with a tentative slate of four events in 2026, all of them tied to Chinese holidays — a nod to the neighborhood’s strong cultural identity as an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfheritage.org/sunset-chinese-cultural-district/\">informal Chinatown\u003c/a>. The revamped market will kick off with a Lunar New Year–themed event on Feb. 27, followed by night markets timed to coincide with the Dragon Boat Festival (June), the Moon Festival (September), and the Winter Solstice (December).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985636\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985636\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1.jpg\" alt=\"A night market vendor grills turkey legs.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vendor grills turkey legs at a 2024 edition of the night market. \u003ccite>(Jimmy Love, courtesy of Sunset Night Market)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fact that the night market will kick off the Year of the Horse is especially auspicious, says Lily Wong, director of the Sunset Chinese Cultural District, which helps organize the event.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In Chinese, we actually have a saying about [how] when the horse arrives, success arrives too,” Wong says. The hope is for the event to usher in a longer-term night market that’s more sustainable than last year’s edition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Angie Petitt, founder of \u003ca href=\"https://sunsetmercantilesf.com/\">Sunset Mercantile\u003c/a>, another of the night market’s organizers, says the event’s ultimate goal is to show off the diversity of the Sunset and to “help bring a lot more attention to these wonderful brick-and-mortars that line Irving Street.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some \u003ca href=\"https://sfstandard.com/2025/07/10/sunset-irving-street-night-market-cancelled-recall/\">media reports\u003c/a> speculated that last year’s run of night markets may have been scuttled at least in part for political reasons — which is to say, because the Sunset Night Market was too closely associated with embattled (and eventually recalled) District 4 Supervisor Joel Engardio, who helped spearhead the event in 2023. Wong and Petitt, however, are adamant that politics had nothing to do with it. Instead, they say, the problem mostly had to do with funding. In particular, there was an \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/san-francisco-sunset-night-market-canceled-in-2025/\">eight-month delay\u003c/a> before organizers received the $120,000 in city grant money promised by San Francisco’s Office of Economic and Workforce Development (OEWD) for the 2024 markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985634\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985634\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A father carries his young daughter on his shoulders as she eats food from a Chinese takeout carton.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">3-year-old Maise Lee eats rice while sitting on her dad Edward Young Lee’s shoulders at 2023’s inaugural Sunset Night Market. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We just weren’t confident that we could run the market when we were already in debt, so that took a little bit of time to figure out,” Wong says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, the 2026 iteration of the night market is being funded by grants from both the OEWD and the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://www.avenuegreenlightsf.org/\">Avenue Greenlight\u003c/a> — though Wong stresses that they’re still looking for additional sponsors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, even though the huge scale of the night market’s 2024 season made it one of the splashiest events in the city, the market’s seven-block footprint also posed significant challenges. Those events drew 20,000 visitors to the Sunset each night, which was a boon to some of the local businesses — but the street closures and huge crowds proved to be a big inconvenience for others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985637\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985637\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of diners seated outside a Chinese restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd of diners seated outside Yuanbao Jiaozi, a local Sunset District restaurant, during one of the 2024 night markets. \u003ccite>(Jimmy Love, courtesy of Sunset Night Market)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This year’s events will be “right-sized” to five blocks instead of seven — a happy medium that Wong hopes is more viable for the future. And while organizers have applied to host the first two night markets (on Feb. 27 and June 12) on Irving Street, Wong says they’re open to moving future editions to other parts of the greater Sunset area — perhaps to Parkside or Noriega Street — if business owners in those neighborhoods are interested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13963258,arts_13981034,news_11961526']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Even at this slightly smaller scale, Petitt says this year’s markets should have all the hallmarks of the Sunset Night Market’s past successes — music, cultural performances, games and other family-friendly activities, celebrity chef appearances and, of course, hot food. While organizers are still curating the Feb. 27 lineup, Petitt says some of the likely food vendors include Filipino dessert pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/loulouslecheflan/?hl=en\">Loulou’s Leche Flan\u003c/a>, Korean-Mexican fusion candymaker \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kimoysf/?hl=en\">Kimoy Chamoy\u003c/a>, Taiwanese bento cult favorite \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitk1655/\">MITK Taiwanese Kitchen\u003c/a>, Jamaican hand pie specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/peachespatties/?hl=en\">Peaches Patties\u003c/a> and more — plus a host of Irving Street restaurants that will be open for business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985639\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985639\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"People strolling a crowded night market.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors strolling the Irving Street night market in 2023. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The night market’s return is especially important for the neighborhood’s Chinese cultural district, which is hitting its five-year anniversary. “During the pandemic, there was a lot of hate toward Asians. It was a double whammy for our Chinese-owned small businesses that have consistently served the community,” Wong says. Even now, she adds, many of those businesses still haven’t gotten back to pre-pandemic levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s not that hard to get to the Sunset,” she says. “A lot of these businesses are family-owned, and they need our support. Come check them out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DTOhjoukovY/\">\u003ci>Sunset Night Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> of 2026 will take place on Feb. 27, 5–10 p.m., on Irving Street between 20th and 25th avenues in San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For a couple Friday nights in August and September of 2024, some 20,000 visitors descended on the west end of San Francisco for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11961526/smiles-and-slurps-san-franciscos-sunset-neighborhood-night-market-kicks-off\">Sunset Night Market\u003c/a> — maybe the biggest, splashiest night market the city had ever seen, occupying a whopping seven blocks of Irving Street. There were lion dancers in full regalia. Lamb skewers and prehistoric-sized turkey legs served hot off the grill. Stinky tofu and durian eating contests. Martin Yan even \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_bob2XybFq/\">made an appearance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Asian-style night markets continued their emergence as the Bay Area’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11961526/smiles-and-slurps-san-franciscos-sunset-neighborhood-night-market-kicks-off\">single most popular format for community events\u003c/a>, many looked forward to seeing what new offerings the Sunset Night Market had in store for 2025. But the new season never got off the ground, as the market’s organizers struggled with funding and blowback from some of the businesses in the neighborhood. In June, organizers announced that the night market would be \u003ca href=\"https://missionlocal.org/2025/06/sf-sunset-night-market-faces-uncertain-fate/\">put “on pause” \u003c/a>for the rest of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the Sunset Night Market is back with a tentative slate of four events in 2026, all of them tied to Chinese holidays — a nod to the neighborhood’s strong cultural identity as an \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfheritage.org/sunset-chinese-cultural-district/\">informal Chinatown\u003c/a>. The revamped market will kick off with a Lunar New Year–themed event on Feb. 27, followed by night markets timed to coincide with the Dragon Boat Festival (June), the Moon Festival (September), and the Winter Solstice (December).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985636\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985636\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1.jpg\" alt=\"A night market vendor grills turkey legs.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02844-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A vendor grills turkey legs at a 2024 edition of the night market. \u003ccite>(Jimmy Love, courtesy of Sunset Night Market)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fact that the night market will kick off the Year of the Horse is especially auspicious, says Lily Wong, director of the Sunset Chinese Cultural District, which helps organize the event.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In Chinese, we actually have a saying about [how] when the horse arrives, success arrives too,” Wong says. The hope is for the event to usher in a longer-term night market that’s more sustainable than last year’s edition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Angie Petitt, founder of \u003ca href=\"https://sunsetmercantilesf.com/\">Sunset Mercantile\u003c/a>, another of the night market’s organizers, says the event’s ultimate goal is to show off the diversity of the Sunset and to “help bring a lot more attention to these wonderful brick-and-mortars that line Irving Street.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some \u003ca href=\"https://sfstandard.com/2025/07/10/sunset-irving-street-night-market-cancelled-recall/\">media reports\u003c/a> speculated that last year’s run of night markets may have been scuttled at least in part for political reasons — which is to say, because the Sunset Night Market was too closely associated with embattled (and eventually recalled) District 4 Supervisor Joel Engardio, who helped spearhead the event in 2023. Wong and Petitt, however, are adamant that politics had nothing to do with it. Instead, they say, the problem mostly had to do with funding. In particular, there was an \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/san-francisco-sunset-night-market-canceled-in-2025/\">eight-month delay\u003c/a> before organizers received the $120,000 in city grant money promised by San Francisco’s Office of Economic and Workforce Development (OEWD) for the 2024 markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985634\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985634\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A father carries his young daughter on his shoulders as she eats food from a Chinese takeout carton.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-32-JY-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">3-year-old Maise Lee eats rice while sitting on her dad Edward Young Lee’s shoulders at 2023’s inaugural Sunset Night Market. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We just weren’t confident that we could run the market when we were already in debt, so that took a little bit of time to figure out,” Wong says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, the 2026 iteration of the night market is being funded by grants from both the OEWD and the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"https://www.avenuegreenlightsf.org/\">Avenue Greenlight\u003c/a> — though Wong stresses that they’re still looking for additional sponsors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, even though the huge scale of the night market’s 2024 season made it one of the splashiest events in the city, the market’s seven-block footprint also posed significant challenges. Those events drew 20,000 visitors to the Sunset each night, which was a boon to some of the local businesses — but the street closures and huge crowds proved to be a big inconvenience for others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985637\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985637\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of diners seated outside a Chinese restaurant.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/LOV02776-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crowd of diners seated outside Yuanbao Jiaozi, a local Sunset District restaurant, during one of the 2024 night markets. \u003ccite>(Jimmy Love, courtesy of Sunset Night Market)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This year’s events will be “right-sized” to five blocks instead of seven — a happy medium that Wong hopes is more viable for the future. And while organizers have applied to host the first two night markets (on Feb. 27 and June 12) on Irving Street, Wong says they’re open to moving future editions to other parts of the greater Sunset area — perhaps to Parkside or Noriega Street — if business owners in those neighborhoods are interested.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Even at this slightly smaller scale, Petitt says this year’s markets should have all the hallmarks of the Sunset Night Market’s past successes — music, cultural performances, games and other family-friendly activities, celebrity chef appearances and, of course, hot food. While organizers are still curating the Feb. 27 lineup, Petitt says some of the likely food vendors include Filipino dessert pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/loulouslecheflan/?hl=en\">Loulou’s Leche Flan\u003c/a>, Korean-Mexican fusion candymaker \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kimoysf/?hl=en\">Kimoy Chamoy\u003c/a>, Taiwanese bento cult favorite \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mitk1655/\">MITK Taiwanese Kitchen\u003c/a>, Jamaican hand pie specialist \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/peachespatties/?hl=en\">Peaches Patties\u003c/a> and more — plus a host of Irving Street restaurants that will be open for business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985639\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985639\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"People strolling a crowded night market.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/20230915-SunsetNightMarket-36-JY-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors strolling the Irving Street night market in 2023. \u003ccite>(Juliana Yamada/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The night market’s return is especially important for the neighborhood’s Chinese cultural district, which is hitting its five-year anniversary. “During the pandemic, there was a lot of hate toward Asians. It was a double whammy for our Chinese-owned small businesses that have consistently served the community,” Wong says. Even now, she adds, many of those businesses still haven’t gotten back to pre-pandemic levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s not that hard to get to the Sunset,” she says. “A lot of these businesses are family-owned, and they need our support. Come check them out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DTOhjoukovY/\">\u003ci>Sunset Night Market\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> of 2026 will take place on Feb. 27, 5–10 p.m., on Irving Street between 20th and 25th avenues in San Francisco.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "melt-the-ice-el-rio-fundraiser-dance-party-mission-sf",
"title": "A Mission District Dance Party Wants to ‘Melt the ICE’",
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"content": "\u003cp>This Sunday, like so many other nights at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/mission-district\">Mission District\u003c/a> queer bar \u003ca href=\"https://www.elriosf.com/\">El Rio\u003c/a>, the dance floor will fill up with partygoers getting down to a live set of Latin fusion beats. There will be a full lineup of all trans DJs. There will be homemade tamales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the goal of this dance party won’t \u003cem>only \u003c/em>be for everyone to have a good time. Organized by the queer mutual aid collective \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/abundancealchemy_bayarea/\">Abundance Alchemy\u003c/a>, the Jan. 18 event will double as a fundraiser to support Bay Area families impacted by the recent spate of ICE deportation crackdowns — and as a form of grassroots resistance, its organizers say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name of the party? The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/abundancealchemy_bayarea/\">Melt the ICE Fest\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collective member Yara, an Oakland-based visual artist, explains that Abundance Alchemy formed in late in 2023 in response to the widespread death and destruction happening in Gaza, as well as the police crackdowns on protests right here in the Bay Area. The idea, Yara says, was to figure out how folks could mobilize to help ease some of the suffering they were witnessing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The collective’s first action was an art raffle in early 2024 that wound up raising $2,000 for organizations doing on-the-ground work to support victims in Palestine, Congo and Sudan. “That made us realize, ‘Oh, we can do something!'” Yara says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, the collective has mostly focused on distributing food, clothing and other supplies to unhoused communities in Oakland and San Francisco. It now has 25 to 30 active members, most of them queer, spread all over the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985527\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro.jpg\" alt=\"People pass out food in grocery bags from the trunk of a car.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of Abundance Alchemy passing out food. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Abundance Alchemy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sunday’s “Melt the ICE” event comes at a time when ICE’s aggressive, often violent deportation campaigns have sparked outrage nationwide, especially in the wake of an federal immigration agent’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12069104/bay-area-immigrant-defense-groups-report-surge-in-support-after-minneapolis-ice-killing\">fatal shooting of Minneapolis mother Renee Good\u003c/a> last week. “\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s heartbreaking what’s happening ,” Yara says. “The way they’re just killing people in the street is disgusting.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, Yara notes that the fundraising event has been in the works ever since ICE agents started \u003ca href=\"https://www.vox.com/policy/474842/ice-enforcement-operation-culture-violence-minneapolis-border\">ramping up the aggressiveness\u003c/a> of their on-the-ground tactics \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12057190/fear-of-ice-raids-drains-sales-for-businesses-in-oaklands-fruitvale\">this past fall\u003c/a>. Members of Abundance Alchemy wanted to raise money to support local immigrant communities, but they also wanted do something fun and celebratory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In this world we live in where everything can feel so bleak, sometimes we need to make things that will make us happy and make us come together in joy — to not only cry together but dance together, and share in this trauma together,” Yara says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='news_12069590,arts_13953497']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Slowly, the different elements of the event came together: El Rio was an obvious fit to host because of how queer-friendly it is — and the bar was even willing to waive its usual fees for the fundraiser. A local cook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/veritas_cooking/\">Verita\u003c/a>, volunteered to make tamales to sell at the event. A ceramicist will also have a table set up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the fact that the DJ lineup is all trans wasn’t something they planned on purpose, Yara says. Those were just the DJs who responded to their call for volunteers. “They were the people who stepped up,” Yara says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Yara, the bulk of the money raised at Sunday’s event will be distributed directly to a handful of Bay Area families who have been impacted by the ICE crackdowns. If there are extra funds, they’ll be donated to the Oakland Education Alliance’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oea_rapidresponse/\">Rapid Response Team\u003c/a>, which provides legal services to immigrant families facing deportation.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DTG7HGbEoZS/\">Melt the Ice Fest\u003c/a>, featuring DeAlma, Tranzmutation, DJMJ and Maryama, will take place at El Rio (3158 Mission St., San Francisco) on Sunday, Jan. 18, 3–8 p.m. The door fee will be a sliding scale of $10–$20. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This Sunday, like so many other nights at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/mission-district\">Mission District\u003c/a> queer bar \u003ca href=\"https://www.elriosf.com/\">El Rio\u003c/a>, the dance floor will fill up with partygoers getting down to a live set of Latin fusion beats. There will be a full lineup of all trans DJs. There will be homemade tamales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the goal of this dance party won’t \u003cem>only \u003c/em>be for everyone to have a good time. Organized by the queer mutual aid collective \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/abundancealchemy_bayarea/\">Abundance Alchemy\u003c/a>, the Jan. 18 event will double as a fundraiser to support Bay Area families impacted by the recent spate of ICE deportation crackdowns — and as a form of grassroots resistance, its organizers say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name of the party? The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/abundancealchemy_bayarea/\">Melt the ICE Fest\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collective member Yara, an Oakland-based visual artist, explains that Abundance Alchemy formed in late in 2023 in response to the widespread death and destruction happening in Gaza, as well as the police crackdowns on protests right here in the Bay Area. The idea, Yara says, was to figure out how folks could mobilize to help ease some of the suffering they were witnessing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The collective’s first action was an art raffle in early 2024 that wound up raising $2,000 for organizations doing on-the-ground work to support victims in Palestine, Congo and Sudan. “That made us realize, ‘Oh, we can do something!'” Yara says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since then, the collective has mostly focused on distributing food, clothing and other supplies to unhoused communities in Oakland and San Francisco. It now has 25 to 30 active members, most of them queer, spread all over the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985527\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro.jpg\" alt=\"People pass out food in grocery bags from the trunk of a car.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/abundance-alchemy-food-distro-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of Abundance Alchemy passing out food. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Abundance Alchemy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sunday’s “Melt the ICE” event comes at a time when ICE’s aggressive, often violent deportation campaigns have sparked outrage nationwide, especially in the wake of an federal immigration agent’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12069104/bay-area-immigrant-defense-groups-report-surge-in-support-after-minneapolis-ice-killing\">fatal shooting of Minneapolis mother Renee Good\u003c/a> last week. “\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s heartbreaking what’s happening ,” Yara says. “The way they’re just killing people in the street is disgusting.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, Yara notes that the fundraising event has been in the works ever since ICE agents started \u003ca href=\"https://www.vox.com/policy/474842/ice-enforcement-operation-culture-violence-minneapolis-border\">ramping up the aggressiveness\u003c/a> of their on-the-ground tactics \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/12057190/fear-of-ice-raids-drains-sales-for-businesses-in-oaklands-fruitvale\">this past fall\u003c/a>. Members of Abundance Alchemy wanted to raise money to support local immigrant communities, but they also wanted do something fun and celebratory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In this world we live in where everything can feel so bleak, sometimes we need to make things that will make us happy and make us come together in joy — to not only cry together but dance together, and share in this trauma together,” Yara says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>Slowly, the different elements of the event came together: El Rio was an obvious fit to host because of how queer-friendly it is — and the bar was even willing to waive its usual fees for the fundraiser. A local cook, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/veritas_cooking/\">Verita\u003c/a>, volunteered to make tamales to sell at the event. A ceramicist will also have a table set up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the fact that the DJ lineup is all trans wasn’t something they planned on purpose, Yara says. Those were just the DJs who responded to their call for volunteers. “They were the people who stepped up,” Yara says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Yara, the bulk of the money raised at Sunday’s event will be distributed directly to a handful of Bay Area families who have been impacted by the ICE crackdowns. If there are extra funds, they’ll be donated to the Oakland Education Alliance’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oea_rapidresponse/\">Rapid Response Team\u003c/a>, which provides legal services to immigrant families facing deportation.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DTG7HGbEoZS/\">Melt the Ice Fest\u003c/a>, featuring DeAlma, Tranzmutation, DJMJ and Maryama, will take place at El Rio (3158 Mission St., San Francisco) on Sunday, Jan. 18, 3–8 p.m. The door fee will be a sliding scale of $10–$20. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Warriors Celebrate Muslim Heritage With a Night of Indo-Texan Halal Barbecue",
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"content": "\u003cp>Fik and Reka Saleh are no stranger to long lines and sold-out events. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962220/fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda\">Fikscue\u003c/a>, the couple’s Indonesian-Texan halal barbecue spot in Alameda, has drawn around-the-block crowds since its debut in 2023. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s new location in so-called Thrive City, the promenade just outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chase-center\">Chase Center\u003c/a>, has introduced the Salehs’ unique combination of Texas-style smoked meats and Indonesian side dishes to an even wider audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Thursday night’s Warriors home game against the Knicks will mark another milestone: It’ll be the first time halal-keeping fans can chow down on Fikscue’s brisket sandwiches and sate ayam (grilled chicken skewers) inside the arena itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13962220']\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The occasion? The Warriors’ fifth annual Muslim Heritage Night, which the team hosts in collaboration with local food festival organizer \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13972704/suhoor-fest-ramadan-san-jose-halal-food-festival-2025\">HalalFest\u003c/a>. The event brings the Bay Area Muslim community together for a night of halal food (normally not available inside Chase Center) and much-needed celebration — especially during this time of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101895300/hate-crimes-against-muslims-and-jews-on-the-rise\">rising\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11991016/islamic-prayer-at-san-francisco-park-interrupted-by-hateful-verbal-attack\">Islamophobia\u003c/a>, ICE crackdowns and targeted \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2025/12/16/politics/travel-ban-trump-expands-countries\">travel bans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>HalalFest founder Irfan Rydhan expects this year’s edition to be the largest one yet: 700 fans have already bought tickets, including 250 who purchased boxed barbecue meals from Fikscue. While the deadline has passed for pre-ordering the Fikscue meals, a handful of promotional tickets for the game are still available, ranging from $120 to $275 — the latter for seats in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.chasecenter.com/vendor/modelo-cantina/\">Modelo Cantina\u003c/a>, whose buffet spread that night will feature all halal meats and seafood. The Chase Center will also provide a designated room where Muslim fans can pray during the game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985378\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985378\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372.jpg\" alt=\"Warriors' fans hold up a "Muslim Heritage Night" T-shirt.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fans at the 2025 edition of Muslim Heritage Night show off a commemorative T-shirt. \u003ccite>(Meriam Salem, via HalalFest)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The promotion brings halal-keeping Warriors’ fans one step closer to their longer-term goal: having a permanent halal food vendor inside the venue Even though Fikscue’s Thrive City shop is located just a few steps away from Chase Center, purchases there still count as “outside food” and can’t be brought inside the arena. It’s a question the restaurant’s Thrive City team has had to answer “many, many times,” Reka Saleh says with bemusement — so it’s clear the demand is there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Fik and Reka, participating in this year’s Muslim Heritage feels like the logical next step for Fikscue, which has mushroomed since its days as a scrappy pop-up. The restaurant went from being open just a few hours on weekends only at its Alameda location to adding Wednesday night dinner service and, since last June, the operation in San Francisco — featuring a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DGoQ4r6zRj5/?hl=en\">gorgeous new pit room\u003c/a> that faces the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this year, Reka says, they’re looking forward to participating in more events like Muslim Heritage Night. “It means a lot,” she says, “because that was the whole purpose of us being 100% halal, right? It was to be able to connect to the broader community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>To purchase Muslim Heritage Night promotional tickets to the Jan. 15 Warriors game against the Knicks, email info@halalfest.com. Prices range from $120 to $275 per ticket. The deadline to order the tickets is 3 p.m. on Jan. 15.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Fik and Reka Saleh are no stranger to long lines and sold-out events. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13962220/fikscue-best-indonesian-texas-barbecue-smoked-brisket-alameda\">Fikscue\u003c/a>, the couple’s Indonesian-Texan halal barbecue spot in Alameda, has drawn around-the-block crowds since its debut in 2023. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s new location in so-called Thrive City, the promenade just outside \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/tag/chase-center\">Chase Center\u003c/a>, has introduced the Salehs’ unique combination of Texas-style smoked meats and Indonesian side dishes to an even wider audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Thursday night’s Warriors home game against the Knicks will mark another milestone: It’ll be the first time halal-keeping fans can chow down on Fikscue’s brisket sandwiches and sate ayam (grilled chicken skewers) inside the arena itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"color: #2b2b2b;font-weight: 400\">\u003cb>\u003cstrong>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/strong>\u003c/b>\u003c/span>The occasion? The Warriors’ fifth annual Muslim Heritage Night, which the team hosts in collaboration with local food festival organizer \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13972704/suhoor-fest-ramadan-san-jose-halal-food-festival-2025\">HalalFest\u003c/a>. The event brings the Bay Area Muslim community together for a night of halal food (normally not available inside Chase Center) and much-needed celebration — especially during this time of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101895300/hate-crimes-against-muslims-and-jews-on-the-rise\">rising\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11991016/islamic-prayer-at-san-francisco-park-interrupted-by-hateful-verbal-attack\">Islamophobia\u003c/a>, ICE crackdowns and targeted \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2025/12/16/politics/travel-ban-trump-expands-countries\">travel bans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>HalalFest founder Irfan Rydhan expects this year’s edition to be the largest one yet: 700 fans have already bought tickets, including 250 who purchased boxed barbecue meals from Fikscue. While the deadline has passed for pre-ordering the Fikscue meals, a handful of promotional tickets for the game are still available, ranging from $120 to $275 — the latter for seats in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.chasecenter.com/vendor/modelo-cantina/\">Modelo Cantina\u003c/a>, whose buffet spread that night will feature all halal meats and seafood. The Chase Center will also provide a designated room where Muslim fans can pray during the game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13985378\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13985378\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372.jpg\" alt=\"Warriors' fans hold up a "Muslim Heritage Night" T-shirt.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2026/01/warriors2025-4372-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fans at the 2025 edition of Muslim Heritage Night show off a commemorative T-shirt. \u003ccite>(Meriam Salem, via HalalFest)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The promotion brings halal-keeping Warriors’ fans one step closer to their longer-term goal: having a permanent halal food vendor inside the venue Even though Fikscue’s Thrive City shop is located just a few steps away from Chase Center, purchases there still count as “outside food” and can’t be brought inside the arena. It’s a question the restaurant’s Thrive City team has had to answer “many, many times,” Reka Saleh says with bemusement — so it’s clear the demand is there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Fik and Reka, participating in this year’s Muslim Heritage feels like the logical next step for Fikscue, which has mushroomed since its days as a scrappy pop-up. The restaurant went from being open just a few hours on weekends only at its Alameda location to adding Wednesday night dinner service and, since last June, the operation in San Francisco — featuring a \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/DGoQ4r6zRj5/?hl=en\">gorgeous new pit room\u003c/a> that faces the Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this year, Reka says, they’re looking forward to participating in more events like Muslim Heritage Night. “It means a lot,” she says, “because that was the whole purpose of us being 100% halal, right? It was to be able to connect to the broader community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>To purchase Muslim Heritage Night promotional tickets to the Jan. 15 Warriors game against the Knicks, email info@halalfest.com. Prices range from $120 to $275 per ticket. The deadline to order the tickets is 3 p.m. on Jan. 15.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
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