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"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]M[/dropcap]y childhood trips to the Bay Area were a chance for my family to revisit old haunts. Whenever my dad would drive us down the long strip of highway from Sacramento to San Francisco, he would point out every memorable cue through the car window. “That’s the hospital you were born in” or “I used to come here for shakes and soft serve” or, my favorite, “that’s where your grandmother’s old restaurant used to be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, my grandmother, Helena Lomanto, was one of the Bay Area’s very first Indonesian restaurateurs — though I didn’t know it at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That restaurant we’d pass by is now Waikiki Hawaiian BBQ, a humble takeout facade on San Pablo Avenue’s El Cerrito strip. I know it best from old pictures, where my grandmother’s signage displayed the name “BOROBUDUR” in all caps. Inside the restaurant was a takeout counter and pink laminated menus. Served hot and fresh: ayam goreng, or thinly battered fried chicken with sambal goreng on the side, and a variety of rice plates and vegetable stir fries. Like many Asian restaurants in the Bay Area during the ’80s and ’90s, the menu was a mix of timeless classics like bakmi goreng (an Indonesian take on Chinese chow mein) and more fusion-y, Americanized flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My grandmother loved to tell me stories about her days in the restaurant and how she learned about the business when she first immigrated stateside and worked as the lettuce slicer at Burger King. Soon enough, she and my grandfather would open not one, but three different Chinese-Indonesian restaurants in the Bay Area — one in San Francisco, one in El Cerrito and yet another in Daly City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]‘My grandmother was one of the Bay Area’s very first Indonesian restaurateurs — though I didn’t know it at the time.’[/pullquote]And so, when I heard that her restaurants hadn’t done well, I wanted to know more. I wanted to know \u003ci>why\u003c/i> it wasn’t bustling with people. After all, my friends used to fight for a spot at my dining table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, my father explained it to me: Borobudur wasn’t an El Cerrito hotspot because people don’t travel to El Cerrito for Chinese-Indonesian cuisine. There’s a word for it in Indonesian — hokee\u003ci>,\u003c/i> which roughly translates to “luck.” The location of that restaurant, plus the exact timing of the cuisine in that specific locale, was not hokee. By the late ’90s, her third and final restaurant — Daly City’s Plantation Golden Fried Chicken — had also closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929187\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929187\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city.jpg\" alt='Photograph dated April 13, 1991 shows the facade of a strip mall restaurant at dusk. The sign reads, \"Plantation Golden Fried Chicken\" in red letters.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1335\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-800x556.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-1020x709.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-160x111.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-768x534.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-1536x1068.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plantation Golden Fried Chicken in Daly City was the last of Lomanto’s restaurants. It closed in the late ’90s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Helena Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Over the past few years, Indonesian restaurants across the Bay Area have once again been struggling. My standard meeting places with visiting relatives saw less and less traffic in the years before the pandemic: Jayakarta in Berkeley shuttered its windows in the summer of 2019. \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Two-of-the-Bay-Area-s-only-Indonesian-14373778.php\">Another restaurant called Borobudur\u003c/a> — often cited as the oldest Indonesian restaurant in San Francisco — soon followed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, that Borobudur was my grandparents’ first restaurant. I didn’t make the connection until recently, when my grandmother showed me some photographs of her San Francisco restaurant: Scrawled in the caption was the same name, the same Post Street address. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/1461/borobudur-restaurant-review\">New owners\u003c/a> must have taken over the business sometime in the early ’90s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I knew about Borobudur were the stories she’d tell me. My grandmother’s tenure at the San Francisco restaurant saw its heyday in the 1980s. For a while, the business thrived — especially on Tuesdays, when a certain thin, middle-aged woman would eat at my grandmother’s table during her lunch break. Every time she came in, a horde of other customers would follow, and, in our family lore, this mystery woman came to be regarded as the restaurant’s good luck charm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929188\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929188\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735.jpg\" alt='Man and a woman pose for a photograph in the dining room of their restaurant. A handwritten caption reads, \"Borobudur Resto, 1981. 700 Post St., San Francisco, CA.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1403\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-800x585.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-1020x745.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-160x117.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-768x561.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-1536x1122.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lomanto and her husband pose in Borobudur’s dining room during the restaurant’s heyday in the early ’80s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Helena Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In those years, the clientele at Borobudur was diverse, consisting mostly of locals looking for a good hole-in-the-wall Asian food stop. The restaurant’s biggest asset was loyalty. Regular customers would come back again and again to order from the menu’s bilingual offerings — satay ayam (chicken skewers with peanut sauce) or honey walnut prawns made with extra mayonnaise. Even the mystery woman made her way around the menu during her weekly visits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when the 1989 earthquake struck, in all its 6.9-magnitude glory, Borobudur’s customers proved to be superstitious as well. My grandmother speaks about how she felt the ground shake beneath her feet. Trinkets fell off shelves. Plates rattled in cupboards. Everyone inside the restaurant scrambled for cover. After that, the good luck charm woman did not return, and the Tuesday lunch rush slowed in the weeks that followed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant’s hokee, it seemed, had run out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]‘When the 1989 earthquake struck, in all its 6.9-magnitude glory, Borobudur’s customers proved to be superstitious as well.’[/pullquote]I’d always imagined the restaurant having the bustling atmosphere I see in my own favorite restaurants. But my grandmother used to regale us about the toll that cooking took on her body. Eventually, retirement called, and she quickly realized that there were other mouths to feed. Mainly, my sister’s and mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I lived with my grandparents as a part of our family’s intergenerational household. Every night, I would devour a home-cooked meal from my grandma’s well-seasoned wok. Sometimes it was a steaming bowl of pickled greens and pork bone soup — so sour and scintillating that I would call it “refreshing soup.” Sometimes it would be a sweet soy sauce, onion and potato stir-fry that we called “Hayley potatoes,” because it was the only plate our neighbor Hayley would finish. I had every sweet and savory treat I desired because of her prowess in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929189\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929189\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90.jpg\" alt=\"A young woman poses with her grandmother in front of a birthday during the grandmother's 90th birthday celebration. The older woman wears a pink sash that reads, "Happy 90th Birthday."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author and her grandmother pose for a photo during the grandmother’s 90th birthday celebration. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Giovanna Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My grandma spent her retirement taking care of the two of us, cooking most (if not all) of our meals, and driving us to and from school in our new Sacramento home. After my grandfather passed away, my mother started taking up her mantle in the kitchen, and I began to desire culinary talents of my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904861,arts_13921079,arts_13908798']\u003c/span>A few years ago, my grandmother sent me six notebooks filled with her handwritten recipes. Excited to flip through and learn her secrets, I opened the recipe books only to find that they were all written by hand in Dutch, the language she spoke in a colonized Indonesia. Her loopy cursive fell to sharp corners on her p’s and a’s, and much of the pencil lead was wearing off the faded pages. Suddenly, I was no longer worried about cooking replications of her food. I just wanted to preserve the pages, to seal into memory all the knowledge she had bestowed upon these precious artifacts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe books are in my room, wrapped in a plastic bag and some rubber bands, waiting for the day that I learn Dutch. Maybe it’ll never happen — maybe they’ll be some indecipherable family heirloom I’ll pass down to my children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing is certain, though. Along with the other keepsakes I’ve collected from my grandmother’s closet of trinkets and memories, I’ll make sure to share at least one photo for posterity: my grandmother standing in front of the glass window outside her El Cerrito restaurant, surrounded by her husband and her sisters. All of them joined together in the physical space where she once shared a taste of her home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The joy she exudes, in that picture and onwards, has always been the source of my hokee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929190\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1006px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929190\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito.jpg\" alt='A family poses for a photo in front of a restaurant. A handwritten label reads, \"Borobudur Restaurant, San Pablo Ave., El Cerrito, CA.\"' width=\"1006\" height=\"711\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito.jpg 1006w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito-800x565.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito-160x113.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito-768x543.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1006px) 100vw, 1006px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Helena Lomanto and her family pose for a portrait in front of their El Cerrito restaurant. Today the space is occupied by Waikiki Hawaiian BBQ. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Helena Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">M\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>y childhood trips to the Bay Area were a chance for my family to revisit old haunts. Whenever my dad would drive us down the long strip of highway from Sacramento to San Francisco, he would point out every memorable cue through the car window. “That’s the hospital you were born in” or “I used to come here for shakes and soft serve” or, my favorite, “that’s where your grandmother’s old restaurant used to be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, my grandmother, Helena Lomanto, was one of the Bay Area’s very first Indonesian restaurateurs — though I didn’t know it at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That restaurant we’d pass by is now Waikiki Hawaiian BBQ, a humble takeout facade on San Pablo Avenue’s El Cerrito strip. I know it best from old pictures, where my grandmother’s signage displayed the name “BOROBUDUR” in all caps. Inside the restaurant was a takeout counter and pink laminated menus. Served hot and fresh: ayam goreng, or thinly battered fried chicken with sambal goreng on the side, and a variety of rice plates and vegetable stir fries. Like many Asian restaurants in the Bay Area during the ’80s and ’90s, the menu was a mix of timeless classics like bakmi goreng (an Indonesian take on Chinese chow mein) and more fusion-y, Americanized flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My grandmother loved to tell me stories about her days in the restaurant and how she learned about the business when she first immigrated stateside and worked as the lettuce slicer at Burger King. Soon enough, she and my grandfather would open not one, but three different Chinese-Indonesian restaurants in the Bay Area — one in San Francisco, one in El Cerrito and yet another in Daly City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>And so, when I heard that her restaurants hadn’t done well, I wanted to know more. I wanted to know \u003ci>why\u003c/i> it wasn’t bustling with people. After all, my friends used to fight for a spot at my dining table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, my father explained it to me: Borobudur wasn’t an El Cerrito hotspot because people don’t travel to El Cerrito for Chinese-Indonesian cuisine. There’s a word for it in Indonesian — hokee\u003ci>,\u003c/i> which roughly translates to “luck.” The location of that restaurant, plus the exact timing of the cuisine in that specific locale, was not hokee. By the late ’90s, her third and final restaurant — Daly City’s Plantation Golden Fried Chicken — had also closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929187\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929187\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city.jpg\" alt='Photograph dated April 13, 1991 shows the facade of a strip mall restaurant at dusk. The sign reads, \"Plantation Golden Fried Chicken\" in red letters.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1335\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-800x556.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-1020x709.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-160x111.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-768x534.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/plantation-golden-fried-chicken-daly-city-1536x1068.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Plantation Golden Fried Chicken in Daly City was the last of Lomanto’s restaurants. It closed in the late ’90s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Helena Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Over the past few years, Indonesian restaurants across the Bay Area have once again been struggling. My standard meeting places with visiting relatives saw less and less traffic in the years before the pandemic: Jayakarta in Berkeley shuttered its windows in the summer of 2019. \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Two-of-the-Bay-Area-s-only-Indonesian-14373778.php\">Another restaurant called Borobudur\u003c/a> — often cited as the oldest Indonesian restaurant in San Francisco — soon followed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it turns out, that Borobudur was my grandparents’ first restaurant. I didn’t make the connection until recently, when my grandmother showed me some photographs of her San Francisco restaurant: Scrawled in the caption was the same name, the same Post Street address. \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/1461/borobudur-restaurant-review\">New owners\u003c/a> must have taken over the business sometime in the early ’90s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I knew about Borobudur were the stories she’d tell me. My grandmother’s tenure at the San Francisco restaurant saw its heyday in the 1980s. For a while, the business thrived — especially on Tuesdays, when a certain thin, middle-aged woman would eat at my grandmother’s table during her lunch break. Every time she came in, a horde of other customers would follow, and, in our family lore, this mystery woman came to be regarded as the restaurant’s good luck charm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929188\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929188\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735.jpg\" alt='Man and a woman pose for a photograph in the dining room of their restaurant. A handwritten caption reads, \"Borobudur Resto, 1981. 700 Post St., San Francisco, CA.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1403\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-800x585.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-1020x745.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-160x117.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-768x561.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-dining-room_5735-1536x1122.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lomanto and her husband pose in Borobudur’s dining room during the restaurant’s heyday in the early ’80s. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Helena Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In those years, the clientele at Borobudur was diverse, consisting mostly of locals looking for a good hole-in-the-wall Asian food stop. The restaurant’s biggest asset was loyalty. Regular customers would come back again and again to order from the menu’s bilingual offerings — satay ayam (chicken skewers with peanut sauce) or honey walnut prawns made with extra mayonnaise. Even the mystery woman made her way around the menu during her weekly visits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when the 1989 earthquake struck, in all its 6.9-magnitude glory, Borobudur’s customers proved to be superstitious as well. My grandmother speaks about how she felt the ground shake beneath her feet. Trinkets fell off shelves. Plates rattled in cupboards. Everyone inside the restaurant scrambled for cover. After that, the good luck charm woman did not return, and the Tuesday lunch rush slowed in the weeks that followed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant’s hokee, it seemed, had run out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I’d always imagined the restaurant having the bustling atmosphere I see in my own favorite restaurants. But my grandmother used to regale us about the toll that cooking took on her body. Eventually, retirement called, and she quickly realized that there were other mouths to feed. Mainly, my sister’s and mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up, I lived with my grandparents as a part of our family’s intergenerational household. Every night, I would devour a home-cooked meal from my grandma’s well-seasoned wok. Sometimes it was a steaming bowl of pickled greens and pork bone soup — so sour and scintillating that I would call it “refreshing soup.” Sometimes it would be a sweet soy sauce, onion and potato stir-fry that we called “Hayley potatoes,” because it was the only plate our neighbor Hayley would finish. I had every sweet and savory treat I desired because of her prowess in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929189\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929189\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90.jpg\" alt=\"A young woman poses with her grandmother in front of a birthday during the grandmother's 90th birthday celebration. The older woman wears a pink sash that reads, "Happy 90th Birthday."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/helena-lomanto-90-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author and her grandmother pose for a photo during the grandmother’s 90th birthday celebration. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Giovanna Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My grandma spent her retirement taking care of the two of us, cooking most (if not all) of our meals, and driving us to and from school in our new Sacramento home. After my grandfather passed away, my mother started taking up her mantle in the kitchen, and I began to desire culinary talents of my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>A few years ago, my grandmother sent me six notebooks filled with her handwritten recipes. Excited to flip through and learn her secrets, I opened the recipe books only to find that they were all written by hand in Dutch, the language she spoke in a colonized Indonesia. Her loopy cursive fell to sharp corners on her p’s and a’s, and much of the pencil lead was wearing off the faded pages. Suddenly, I was no longer worried about cooking replications of her food. I just wanted to preserve the pages, to seal into memory all the knowledge she had bestowed upon these precious artifacts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe books are in my room, wrapped in a plastic bag and some rubber bands, waiting for the day that I learn Dutch. Maybe it’ll never happen — maybe they’ll be some indecipherable family heirloom I’ll pass down to my children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing is certain, though. Along with the other keepsakes I’ve collected from my grandmother’s closet of trinkets and memories, I’ll make sure to share at least one photo for posterity: my grandmother standing in front of the glass window outside her El Cerrito restaurant, surrounded by her husband and her sisters. All of them joined together in the physical space where she once shared a taste of her home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The joy she exudes, in that picture and onwards, has always been the source of my hokee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929190\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1006px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929190\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito.jpg\" alt='A family poses for a photo in front of a restaurant. A handwritten label reads, \"Borobudur Restaurant, San Pablo Ave., El Cerrito, CA.\"' width=\"1006\" height=\"711\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito.jpg 1006w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito-800x565.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito-160x113.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/borobudur-el-cerrito-768x543.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1006px) 100vw, 1006px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Helena Lomanto and her family pose for a portrait in front of their El Cerrito restaurant. Today the space is occupied by Waikiki Hawaiian BBQ. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Helena Lomanto)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Taiwanese Food Is Taking Over Union Square — For One Day, Anyway",
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"content": "\u003cp>Anyone who has ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897498/mama-liu-lu-rou-fan-taiwanese-food-comic\">searched for Taiwanese food\u003c/a> in the Bay Area knows that this is mostly an exercise in wandering far-flung suburban strip malls, chasing some obscure tip about \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">savory soy milk\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101893028/all-you-can-eat-funky-foods-we-arent-supposed-to-love-but-do\">stinky tofu\u003c/a>. Where you don’t expect to find any noteworthy examples of the cuisine is in one of San Francisco’s most touristy neighborhoods: Union Square.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But at least for one day, that’s exactly what downtown San Francisco visitors will experience, as the annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.tap-sf.org/tacf\">Taiwanese American Cultural Festival\u003c/a> returns to Union Square for its 30th edition on Saturday, May 13. Organizers say it’s the largest festival of its kind on the West Coast, with upwards of 10,000 people expected to at least pass through — even if it’s just on their way to ride the cable car or browse the Apple Store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you’re wandering through anyway, why \u003ci>wouldn’t\u003c/i> you take the opportunity to snag a plate of spicy noodles or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897498/mama-liu-lu-rou-fan-taiwanese-food-comic\">lu rou fan\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s been the hope of the Bay Area chapter of \u003ca href=\"https://www.tap-sf.org/\">Taiwanese American Professionals\u003c/a> (TAP), the volunteer-run group that organizes the event. According to org president Jennifer Chen, one of the main functions of the festival is to raise public awareness about all aspects of Taiwanese culture — including, of course, the food. Even as \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">the cuisine’s profile has risen over the years\u003c/a> here on the West Coast, a lot of folks still don’t know much about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People might only be able to think about bubble tea, and I think there’s so much more depth to that,” Chen says. “Showcasing the diverse set of food that’s related to Taiwan is really important to us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929017\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of people sit eating noodles from paper bowls on a set of stairs outside in Union Square, San Francisco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scene from last year’s festival: Visitors sit and enjoy a bowl of noodles on the stairs outside in Union Square. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Taiwanese American Cultural Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somewhat controversially, perhaps, it turns out that bubble tea — or \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ip-MiwDgjCk\">boba\u003c/a>, as Californians tend to call it — will \u003ci>not\u003c/i> be part of this year’s food and beverage lineup. And because the venue doesn’t allow deep-fryers on site, classics like stinky tofu and Taiwanese popcorn chicken won’t make an appearance either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that’s not to say that there will be any shortage of deliciousness. The main food vendor will be \u003ca href=\"https://www.liangsvillage.com/\">Liang’s Village\u003c/a>, a beloved Cupertino institution currently run by three second-generation siblings who took over the business from their father, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">pivoting into meal kits and frozen foods during the pandemic\u003c/a>. Their festival menu options will include spicy (and non-spicy) noodles that’ll be hand-pulled on-site, lu rou fan (aka braised pork over rice) and tanghulu — the candied fruit skewers that are ubiquitous at night markets in Taiwan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Hsin Tung Yang will sell its popular Taiwanese meat jerkies, and Cupertino-based wholesaler \u003ca href=\"https://shop.combo-market.com/\">Combo Market\u003c/a> will offer frozen treats. And Brooklyn’s \u003ca href=\"https://yunhai.shop/pages/yun-hai-shop-a-taiwanese-general-store\">Yun Hai\u003c/a> will be on hand to sell dried fruits and other Taiwanese pantry items, and to demonstrate its vision for what a modern day, \u003ca href=\"https://www.couriermedia.com/article/yun-hai-williamsburg-taiwanese-food/\">next-generation Taiwanese American general store\u003c/a> might look like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other aspects of the festival will present a similar juxtaposition of traditional and next-gen: There will be lion dance and Chinese yo-yo, but also performances by folks like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chance.s.emerson/?hl=en\">Chance Emerson\u003c/a>, a young Taiwanese American folk-rock singer-songwriter and self-described “half-Asian singin’ cowboy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929018\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance.jpg\" alt=\"Three performers in colorful red and gold lion costumes perform a traditional lion dance.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-1536x1026.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A traditional lion dance performance during last year’s Taiwanese American Cultural Festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Taiwanese American Cultural Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We’re trying to figure out, what does bringing the community together mean in this day and age?” explains Stephen Liu, the TAP board member tasked with curating the festival’s food offerings. “Because it’s definitely a little bit different than what it might mean for a previous generation of Taiwanese Americans.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13897936,arts_13897272,arts_13897410']The other goal is to show visitors that there’s more to Taiwan than just its capital, Taipei. Toward that end, the theme of this year’s festival is “Take Off to Taiwan,” with specific Taiwanese cities assigned to different areas of the event. The food vendor area will be designated as “Tainan,” since that’s arguably the Taiwanese city most famous for its food. The “Yilan” area, known for recreation, will be where the hands-on activities will take place; “Kaohsiung,” a famous shipping hub, will be where visitors can find local Taiwanese artists and other small business vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the future, Liu says, it would be great if the festival also offered specific regional dishes from those cities. “Every year we’re slowly trying to branch out,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This year’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.tap-sf.org/tacf\">\u003ci>Taiwanese American Cultural Festival\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will take place on Saturday, May 13, 10 a.m.–4 p.m. at Union Square in San Francisco. Admission is free.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Anyone who has ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897498/mama-liu-lu-rou-fan-taiwanese-food-comic\">searched for Taiwanese food\u003c/a> in the Bay Area knows that this is mostly an exercise in wandering far-flung suburban strip malls, chasing some obscure tip about \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897868/taiwanese-breakfast-bay-area\">savory soy milk\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101893028/all-you-can-eat-funky-foods-we-arent-supposed-to-love-but-do\">stinky tofu\u003c/a>. Where you don’t expect to find any noteworthy examples of the cuisine is in one of San Francisco’s most touristy neighborhoods: Union Square.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But at least for one day, that’s exactly what downtown San Francisco visitors will experience, as the annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.tap-sf.org/tacf\">Taiwanese American Cultural Festival\u003c/a> returns to Union Square for its 30th edition on Saturday, May 13. Organizers say it’s the largest festival of its kind on the West Coast, with upwards of 10,000 people expected to at least pass through — even if it’s just on their way to ride the cable car or browse the Apple Store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you’re wandering through anyway, why \u003ci>wouldn’t\u003c/i> you take the opportunity to snag a plate of spicy noodles or \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897498/mama-liu-lu-rou-fan-taiwanese-food-comic\">lu rou fan\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s been the hope of the Bay Area chapter of \u003ca href=\"https://www.tap-sf.org/\">Taiwanese American Professionals\u003c/a> (TAP), the volunteer-run group that organizes the event. According to org president Jennifer Chen, one of the main functions of the festival is to raise public awareness about all aspects of Taiwanese culture — including, of course, the food. Even as \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897272/bay-area-taiwanese-food-scene-nostalgia\">the cuisine’s profile has risen over the years\u003c/a> here on the West Coast, a lot of folks still don’t know much about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People might only be able to think about bubble tea, and I think there’s so much more depth to that,” Chen says. “Showcasing the diverse set of food that’s related to Taiwan is really important to us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929017\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929017\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating.jpg\" alt=\"A crowd of people sit eating noodles from paper bowls on a set of stairs outside in Union Square, San Francisco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_eating-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scene from last year’s festival: Visitors sit and enjoy a bowl of noodles on the stairs outside in Union Square. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Taiwanese American Cultural Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somewhat controversially, perhaps, it turns out that bubble tea — or \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ip-MiwDgjCk\">boba\u003c/a>, as Californians tend to call it — will \u003ci>not\u003c/i> be part of this year’s food and beverage lineup. And because the venue doesn’t allow deep-fryers on site, classics like stinky tofu and Taiwanese popcorn chicken won’t make an appearance either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that’s not to say that there will be any shortage of deliciousness. The main food vendor will be \u003ca href=\"https://www.liangsvillage.com/\">Liang’s Village\u003c/a>, a beloved Cupertino institution currently run by three second-generation siblings who took over the business from their father, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897830/taiwanese-restaurants-silicon-valley-cupertino-tech\">pivoting into meal kits and frozen foods during the pandemic\u003c/a>. Their festival menu options will include spicy (and non-spicy) noodles that’ll be hand-pulled on-site, lu rou fan (aka braised pork over rice) and tanghulu — the candied fruit skewers that are ubiquitous at night markets in Taiwan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Hsin Tung Yang will sell its popular Taiwanese meat jerkies, and Cupertino-based wholesaler \u003ca href=\"https://shop.combo-market.com/\">Combo Market\u003c/a> will offer frozen treats. And Brooklyn’s \u003ca href=\"https://yunhai.shop/pages/yun-hai-shop-a-taiwanese-general-store\">Yun Hai\u003c/a> will be on hand to sell dried fruits and other Taiwanese pantry items, and to demonstrate its vision for what a modern day, \u003ca href=\"https://www.couriermedia.com/article/yun-hai-williamsburg-taiwanese-food/\">next-generation Taiwanese American general store\u003c/a> might look like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other aspects of the festival will present a similar juxtaposition of traditional and next-gen: There will be lion dance and Chinese yo-yo, but also performances by folks like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chance.s.emerson/?hl=en\">Chance Emerson\u003c/a>, a young Taiwanese American folk-rock singer-songwriter and self-described “half-Asian singin’ cowboy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13929018\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13929018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance.jpg\" alt=\"Three performers in colorful red and gold lion costumes perform a traditional lion dance.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/taiwanese-american-culture-fest_lion-dance-1536x1026.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A traditional lion dance performance during last year’s Taiwanese American Cultural Festival. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Taiwanese American Cultural Festival)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We’re trying to figure out, what does bringing the community together mean in this day and age?” explains Stephen Liu, the TAP board member tasked with curating the festival’s food offerings. “Because it’s definitely a little bit different than what it might mean for a previous generation of Taiwanese Americans.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The other goal is to show visitors that there’s more to Taiwan than just its capital, Taipei. Toward that end, the theme of this year’s festival is “Take Off to Taiwan,” with specific Taiwanese cities assigned to different areas of the event. The food vendor area will be designated as “Tainan,” since that’s arguably the Taiwanese city most famous for its food. The “Yilan” area, known for recreation, will be where the hands-on activities will take place; “Kaohsiung,” a famous shipping hub, will be where visitors can find local Taiwanese artists and other small business vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the future, Liu says, it would be great if the festival also offered specific regional dishes from those cities. “Every year we’re slowly trying to branch out,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This year’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.tap-sf.org/tacf\">\u003ci>Taiwanese American Cultural Festival\u003c/i>\u003c/a> will take place on Saturday, May 13, 10 a.m.–4 p.m. at Union Square in San Francisco. Admission is free.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "\"Tell Me When To Mango\": Hyphy Iceez Pours Nostalgia in a Cup",
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"headTitle": "“Tell Me When To Mango”: Hyphy Iceez Pours Nostalgia in a Cup | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first heard the hyphy anthem “Tell Me When to Go” in 2006.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, I was a freshman in community college and an active member of L.U.C.H.A., a student-led group for first-generation youth who organized protests and cultural events around campus and in surrounding Bay Area communities. After one late-night session, we all packed into the kitchen of a friend’s house in Redwood City for what quickly turned into a house party. \u003ca href=\"https://genius.com/E-40-tell-me-when-to-go-lyrics\">The moon was out with dark clouds\u003c/a>. One group member was wearing a luchador mask, shaking his skull and going wild to the bass, and somewhere there were bottles of \u003ca href=\"https://genius.com/E-40-tell-me-when-to-go-lyrics\">Jose Cuervo and 1800\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, E-40’s ambassadorial voice: “I’m from the Bay where we hyphy and go dumb. From the soil where them rappers be getting their lingo from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GZbaXdK8Js\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wasn’t the same person after that. My generation was shaped by Keak da Sneak and 40 Water’s declarations of vices and partying on \u003ci>My Ghetto Report Card\u003c/i>. It defined an upbeat tempo for our region and instilled a pride we haven’t let go of since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very few Baydestrians represent that intersection in time more than Jonathan Toledo. Born in 1989, he is — in his own words — “the last of a dying breed.” A San Francisco-raised Filipino Mexican, the dude is a full-time father and Goodwill employee by day, and a creative foodmaker who supplies the vibes by night. Though I didn’t know Toledo growing up, he feels like a familiar soul — someone who could’ve been involved in my fledgling circle of friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many of us during that time, Toledo grew up under the trunk-rattling guidance of the hyphy gods, learning how to maneuver his way through a ruthlessly gentrifying Bay Area landscape while still cultivating his roots. Now, he’s flipping his life experiences into a side business: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hyphyiceez/?hl=en\">Hyphy Iceez\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With homemade flavors like “Tell Me When to Mango,” “Mainey Manzana” and “The Lemon Ayyyyye,” the bootstrap operation has been popping up at various rec centers, family events and markets around the 415, 510 and 408 with Toledo’s signature “Iceez.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As warm weather (theoretically) approaches our foggy horizon, Toledo will be outside serving up cold, slushy treats for kids and adults alike. Catch him pouring up his own variation of 18 dummy juice and handing out life lessons about the only place he’s ever called home: The Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Where did you get the idea for Hyphy Iceez, and when did it launch?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Jonathan Toledo: \u003c/b>Really, I started my first business in 2018 — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thehiphopbouncehouse/\">The Hip Hop Bounce House\u003c/a>. It’s a jumper with a bluetooth speaker and disco lights, a turn-up jumper (laughs). My first year was just about learning everything, and my second year I had plans to grow. But the pandemic hit, and that put a stop to it all. Throughout that time I started thinking about what else I could do business-wise. One day, I was kicking it at Dolores Park with my girl. It was warm outside and vendors were walking around selling coconuts and hella other things, and I was thinking it could be dope to have Icees out here — you know, frozen drinks. From there I applied my experience [gained] from the first business. Within four months of that moment, I had my very first [Icee] machine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928812\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928812 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-800x1200.jpg\" alt='a slushy machine used for making \"Hyphy Iceez\" ' width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hyphy Iceez started in the summer of 2020 with nothing more than a slushy machine. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>It sounds like you really had to pivot from your original plans. Where did it go from there, and how did you turn that into something bigger?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around that time I was really on the drawing board with coming up with my new business name. I had some ideas, but when I thought of Hyphy Iceez, that was it. For me, it’s nostalgic. It’s about putting my twist on a classic, making it my own by adding a childhood staple to Bay Area culture. That’s how I got the business running and started. Then it was really just putting myself out there, doing pop-ups. I wouldn’t always be able to set up at an event, but I would sell outside on the sidewalks. Sometimes, they would invite me in because they would see people coming in with my drinks. I was consistent and persistent. From there my connection really built with different community organizations in San Francisco. It’s the biggest blessing to have that resource.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s always a lot of love. It’s not always about the sales, but just about the experience and making the most out of it. It’s always well received. It’s the Bay. We know hyphy. It’s a household name. It’s just about building unity regardless of what city or area you’re from. We just know how to turn it into a good time and create a positive experience. With everything in close proximity and accessible around the Bay — you got AC Transit, MUNI, BART — it’s important to get out and realize we’re all the same and the culture is everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are there any community orgs who were particularly influential?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.kidsclub.org/\">Boys and Girls Club of SF\u003c/a>. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.ltfrespuestalatina.com/\">Latino Task Force\u003c/a>. Those are the two that were consistently big supporters. I’m always trying to give back when I can. I’ve had other nonprofits reach out to me and ask me to donate my services. Bro, I’m a super small business. That would be breaking the bank for me, I can’t even do that (laughs). But when I can, I try to hook them up in other ways. I’m a Director of Operations at Goodwill, so I can connect them and create opportunities, help them set up tables, provide job resources, things like that. If it doesn’t work out with the Iceez, the bigger picture is still to support the community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You grew up in the Mission. How has that shaped you and your business ideas?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up here, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">it’s full of hustlers\u003c/a>. By hustlers I mean people who are going to go out and get it by any means, regardless. Find a way. Make it happen. Before I did any of this, when I was a teenager, I was stealing car radios, car speakers, and that was one of my first hustles. Selling bootleg CDs. Downloading everything off Limewire. If a CD came out, I’d write down the track list at Target and then go home and download it and sell it. That’s a hustler culture, a mentality. Seeing that in the Bay, and from my family, I had to find a way to apply that to something bigger. That was a large influence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other aspect is about remixing things and making it your own. The Bay been doing that. A lot of people have pulled inspiration out of Bay culture, right? Through that, you learn how to align yourself and keep it authentic. It’s how we grew up — being able to keep it going and lit for future generations. One of my ultimate goals, bro, is to open up a storefront with a whole hyphy theme. But realistically that might not happen in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928811\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928811 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A foodmaker serves cold slushies to a group of young children at an outdoor cultural event in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toledo serves a group of children in the Mission District during a free cultural event in October. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You went from stealing car radios as a youth to becoming a regional director for Goodwill? That’s major. What’s your blueprint for success?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, I oversee the main warehouse and transportation fleets all over the Bay Area’s [nine] counties. That’s 169 employees who report to me. But I started with Goodwill in a program for at-risk youth 12 years ago and got an entry level position in the warehouse. At that time, the program was called RAMP, and it was a job readiness program. It was dope. They helped to prepare me how to apply for jobs, how to interview, stuff like that. They provided professional attire, mock interviews, the basic fundamentals of communication. They taught me the importance of accountability and punctuality.[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Jonathan Toledo\"]‘In the Bay, it’s all about making it your own … by creating your own remix.’[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you weren’t brought up with those skill sets, you don’t really think about it. That’s kind of what helped me start up my first business, to be honest. Going through the program and learning about the store, becoming a manager. I realized if I can help run another person’s business, I can run my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What was your biggest challenge during that transition?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not really having that financial literacy. I’ve learned — over years — I’ve learned through lessons. Originally, I would self-fund everything out-of-pocket with cash and not really think about building up my credit or looking into business credit cards. Things like that. The other night I was checking my emails and I saw a deadline for a small business grant, and the deadline was the next day. So I said fuck that and stayed up all night to apply. I might not get it, but I [filled out the application].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finding and knowing about those resources is important. Every event, I learn more about being efficient, about presentation. I’m always open to learning and adapting, making changes and improving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928810\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928810\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"A close up photo of a green slushy treat in a cup\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toledo takes his inspiration from a lifetime of Bay Area memories, including his mom’s graduation from UC Berkeley, which has a bear as a mascot. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I can’t end this interview without asking the main question: Who are your favorite hyphy rappers, and do you still listen to them? Why is it important to keep that alive?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13907726,arts_13922141,arts_13913201']\u003c/span>Of course. Keak da Sneak, E-40, Too Short, Mistah F.A.B., Mac Dre. San Quinn, for sure, in that era especially. The 2000s, he was coming consistent, non-stop. Yaddamean. There’s so many rappers and Bay artists, the list goes on and on. My kids listen to it through me, but I got a wide range of music that I mess with. I can go from oldies to R&B to rap to hyphy. It’s old-school player shit. We’ll be listening to Spanish music, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyphy is still going on, but it’s not as prominent. Did you see Mistah F.A.B. and them are throwing \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86UW5FKUSDc\">The Hyphy Era Tour\u003c/a>? There’s also a cat on IG, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigfolkspop/\">BigFolksPop\u003c/a>, we just chop it up, and I appreciate all his skits. They’re basically from the hyphy era, like waiting at the bus stop and seeing a Lightning McQueen backpack or [stoned] Spongebob shirt. The gangsta Spongebob. In the Bay, it’s all about making it your own. It goes back to that idea of making things unique by creating your own remix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you looked at our logo for Hyphy Iceez? It’s made by my friend, a local graphic designer, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chrystianguillermo/\">Chrystian Guillermo\u003c/a>, but it’s inspired by Cal Berkeley. My mom is an alumni from UC Berkeley. That’s a big part of the Bay, just like hyphy. It’s about making those connections and keeping that representation. So people see it and they know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hyphyiceez/\">\u003ci>Hyphy Iceez\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is available for private events and can be found serving various community orgs around the Bay Area. Currently, they are part of Frisco Fridays in partnership with \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/_city_chopped_/\">\u003ci>City Chopped\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/made.in.the.city/\">\u003ci>Made in the City\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Check their pages for listings on where and when they will be serving food and hyphy-themed drinks one Friday per month.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Hyphy Iceez Pours Frozen Slushy Drinks Inspired by the Bay Area Hyphy Movement | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first heard the hyphy anthem “Tell Me When to Go” in 2006.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, I was a freshman in community college and an active member of L.U.C.H.A., a student-led group for first-generation youth who organized protests and cultural events around campus and in surrounding Bay Area communities. After one late-night session, we all packed into the kitchen of a friend’s house in Redwood City for what quickly turned into a house party. \u003ca href=\"https://genius.com/E-40-tell-me-when-to-go-lyrics\">The moon was out with dark clouds\u003c/a>. One group member was wearing a luchador mask, shaking his skull and going wild to the bass, and somewhere there were bottles of \u003ca href=\"https://genius.com/E-40-tell-me-when-to-go-lyrics\">Jose Cuervo and 1800\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, E-40’s ambassadorial voice: “I’m from the Bay where we hyphy and go dumb. From the soil where them rappers be getting their lingo from.”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/2GZbaXdK8Js'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/2GZbaXdK8Js'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wasn’t the same person after that. My generation was shaped by Keak da Sneak and 40 Water’s declarations of vices and partying on \u003ci>My Ghetto Report Card\u003c/i>. It defined an upbeat tempo for our region and instilled a pride we haven’t let go of since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very few Baydestrians represent that intersection in time more than Jonathan Toledo. Born in 1989, he is — in his own words — “the last of a dying breed.” A San Francisco-raised Filipino Mexican, the dude is a full-time father and Goodwill employee by day, and a creative foodmaker who supplies the vibes by night. Though I didn’t know Toledo growing up, he feels like a familiar soul — someone who could’ve been involved in my fledgling circle of friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so many of us during that time, Toledo grew up under the trunk-rattling guidance of the hyphy gods, learning how to maneuver his way through a ruthlessly gentrifying Bay Area landscape while still cultivating his roots. Now, he’s flipping his life experiences into a side business: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hyphyiceez/?hl=en\">Hyphy Iceez\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With homemade flavors like “Tell Me When to Mango,” “Mainey Manzana” and “The Lemon Ayyyyye,” the bootstrap operation has been popping up at various rec centers, family events and markets around the 415, 510 and 408 with Toledo’s signature “Iceez.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As warm weather (theoretically) approaches our foggy horizon, Toledo will be outside serving up cold, slushy treats for kids and adults alike. Catch him pouring up his own variation of 18 dummy juice and handing out life lessons about the only place he’s ever called home: The Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Where did you get the idea for Hyphy Iceez, and when did it launch?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Jonathan Toledo: \u003c/b>Really, I started my first business in 2018 — \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thehiphopbouncehouse/\">The Hip Hop Bounce House\u003c/a>. It’s a jumper with a bluetooth speaker and disco lights, a turn-up jumper (laughs). My first year was just about learning everything, and my second year I had plans to grow. But the pandemic hit, and that put a stop to it all. Throughout that time I started thinking about what else I could do business-wise. One day, I was kicking it at Dolores Park with my girl. It was warm outside and vendors were walking around selling coconuts and hella other things, and I was thinking it could be dope to have Icees out here — you know, frozen drinks. From there I applied my experience [gained] from the first business. Within four months of that moment, I had my very first [Icee] machine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928812\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928812 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-800x1200.jpg\" alt='a slushy machine used for making \"Hyphy Iceez\" ' width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_machine-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hyphy Iceez started in the summer of 2020 with nothing more than a slushy machine. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>It sounds like you really had to pivot from your original plans. Where did it go from there, and how did you turn that into something bigger?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around that time I was really on the drawing board with coming up with my new business name. I had some ideas, but when I thought of Hyphy Iceez, that was it. For me, it’s nostalgic. It’s about putting my twist on a classic, making it my own by adding a childhood staple to Bay Area culture. That’s how I got the business running and started. Then it was really just putting myself out there, doing pop-ups. I wouldn’t always be able to set up at an event, but I would sell outside on the sidewalks. Sometimes, they would invite me in because they would see people coming in with my drinks. I was consistent and persistent. From there my connection really built with different community organizations in San Francisco. It’s the biggest blessing to have that resource.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s always a lot of love. It’s not always about the sales, but just about the experience and making the most out of it. It’s always well received. It’s the Bay. We know hyphy. It’s a household name. It’s just about building unity regardless of what city or area you’re from. We just know how to turn it into a good time and create a positive experience. With everything in close proximity and accessible around the Bay — you got AC Transit, MUNI, BART — it’s important to get out and realize we’re all the same and the culture is everywhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are there any community orgs who were particularly influential?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.kidsclub.org/\">Boys and Girls Club of SF\u003c/a>. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.ltfrespuestalatina.com/\">Latino Task Force\u003c/a>. Those are the two that were consistently big supporters. I’m always trying to give back when I can. I’ve had other nonprofits reach out to me and ask me to donate my services. Bro, I’m a super small business. That would be breaking the bank for me, I can’t even do that (laughs). But when I can, I try to hook them up in other ways. I’m a Director of Operations at Goodwill, so I can connect them and create opportunities, help them set up tables, provide job resources, things like that. If it doesn’t work out with the Iceez, the bigger picture is still to support the community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You grew up in the Mission. How has that shaped you and your business ideas?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up here, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">it’s full of hustlers\u003c/a>. By hustlers I mean people who are going to go out and get it by any means, regardless. Find a way. Make it happen. Before I did any of this, when I was a teenager, I was stealing car radios, car speakers, and that was one of my first hustles. Selling bootleg CDs. Downloading everything off Limewire. If a CD came out, I’d write down the track list at Target and then go home and download it and sell it. That’s a hustler culture, a mentality. Seeing that in the Bay, and from my family, I had to find a way to apply that to something bigger. That was a large influence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other aspect is about remixing things and making it your own. The Bay been doing that. A lot of people have pulled inspiration out of Bay culture, right? Through that, you learn how to align yourself and keep it authentic. It’s how we grew up — being able to keep it going and lit for future generations. One of my ultimate goals, bro, is to open up a storefront with a whole hyphy theme. But realistically that might not happen in California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928811\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928811 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A foodmaker serves cold slushies to a group of young children at an outdoor cultural event in San Francisco\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_kids.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toledo serves a group of children in the Mission District during a free cultural event in October. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You went from stealing car radios as a youth to becoming a regional director for Goodwill? That’s major. What’s your blueprint for success?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, I oversee the main warehouse and transportation fleets all over the Bay Area’s [nine] counties. That’s 169 employees who report to me. But I started with Goodwill in a program for at-risk youth 12 years ago and got an entry level position in the warehouse. At that time, the program was called RAMP, and it was a job readiness program. It was dope. They helped to prepare me how to apply for jobs, how to interview, stuff like that. They provided professional attire, mock interviews, the basic fundamentals of communication. They taught me the importance of accountability and punctuality.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you weren’t brought up with those skill sets, you don’t really think about it. That’s kind of what helped me start up my first business, to be honest. Going through the program and learning about the store, becoming a manager. I realized if I can help run another person’s business, I can run my own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What was your biggest challenge during that transition?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not really having that financial literacy. I’ve learned — over years — I’ve learned through lessons. Originally, I would self-fund everything out-of-pocket with cash and not really think about building up my credit or looking into business credit cards. Things like that. The other night I was checking my emails and I saw a deadline for a small business grant, and the deadline was the next day. So I said fuck that and stayed up all night to apply. I might not get it, but I [filled out the application].\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finding and knowing about those resources is important. Every event, I learn more about being efficient, about presentation. I’m always open to learning and adapting, making changes and improving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928810\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928810\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"A close up photo of a green slushy treat in a cup\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/hyphy_iceez_close-up-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Toledo takes his inspiration from a lifetime of Bay Area memories, including his mom’s graduation from UC Berkeley, which has a bear as a mascot. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I can’t end this interview without asking the main question: Who are your favorite hyphy rappers, and do you still listen to them? Why is it important to keep that alive?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Of course. Keak da Sneak, E-40, Too Short, Mistah F.A.B., Mac Dre. San Quinn, for sure, in that era especially. The 2000s, he was coming consistent, non-stop. Yaddamean. There’s so many rappers and Bay artists, the list goes on and on. My kids listen to it through me, but I got a wide range of music that I mess with. I can go from oldies to R&B to rap to hyphy. It’s old-school player shit. We’ll be listening to Spanish music, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyphy is still going on, but it’s not as prominent. Did you see Mistah F.A.B. and them are throwing \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86UW5FKUSDc\">The Hyphy Era Tour\u003c/a>? There’s also a cat on IG, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigfolkspop/\">BigFolksPop\u003c/a>, we just chop it up, and I appreciate all his skits. They’re basically from the hyphy era, like waiting at the bus stop and seeing a Lightning McQueen backpack or [stoned] Spongebob shirt. The gangsta Spongebob. In the Bay, it’s all about making it your own. It goes back to that idea of making things unique by creating your own remix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you looked at our logo for Hyphy Iceez? It’s made by my friend, a local graphic designer, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chrystianguillermo/\">Chrystian Guillermo\u003c/a>, but it’s inspired by Cal Berkeley. My mom is an alumni from UC Berkeley. That’s a big part of the Bay, just like hyphy. It’s about making those connections and keeping that representation. So people see it and they know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hyphyiceez/\">\u003ci>Hyphy Iceez\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is available for private events and can be found serving various community orgs around the Bay Area. Currently, they are part of Frisco Fridays in partnership with \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/_city_chopped_/\">\u003ci>City Chopped\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/made.in.the.city/\">\u003ci>Made in the City\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. Check their pages for listings on where and when they will be serving food and hyphy-themed drinks one Friday per month.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "No Immigrants, No Spice: An Oakland Fundraiser Celebrates the Diversity of Barbecue",
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"content": "\u003cp>A wafting scent of familiar food can transport someone back home faster than Dorothy’s red slippers. If I smell chicken \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicken_inasal\">inasal\u003c/a>, a form of barbecue from my island province of Iloilo, all those memories come flooding back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For immigrants like me, food is one of the ways to preserve cultural traditions and keep that connection to home alive. Whether we immigrated at will or under duress, our paths led us to America for want of building a life better than what we had. And part of what made this country the promised land was that it was this physical melting pot of cultures — all made possible, and more flavorful, by immigrants.\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915306,arts_13915312,arts_13928085']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the idea behind the second annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bbq-without-borders-2023-tickets-593388891147\">BBQ Without Borders\u003c/a>, a food-based fundraiser that brings the community together to celebrate immigration through dance, music, art and, of course, barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did someone say lechon, kebab and yakitori?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event — which will take place on May 13 at the Oakland Museum — is the brainchild of \u003ca href=\"https://noimmigrantsnospice.org/\">No Immigrants No Spice\u003c/a>, an Oakland-based nonprofit that supports immigrant food entrepreneurs and celebrates the diversity and joy that they bring to this country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is our common denominator and serves as a profound vehicle to inspire curiosity about another culture. We can learn so much about each other through the foods we eat if we do so mindfully,” says founder Vibha Gupta, an ER physician, mother and first-generation Indian American who lives in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928808\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928808\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A chef holds yakitori skewers over a Japanese charcoal grill.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tadayuki Furui of San Francisco’s Family Cafe (now closed) carefully grills traditional Japanese yakitori skewers. \u003ccite>(Lara Kaur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gupta created the nonprofit as a response to the rise of racism and xenophobia during the Trump presidency. Laughing, she credits \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOt5SmHf2aE\">one of Trevor Noah’s stand-up routines\u003c/a> — in which he says people who hate immigrants shouldn’t be allowed to eat their food — as her inspiration. Think \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedailybeast.com/obsessed/aggretsuko-is-one-of-netflixs-best-shows-heres-the-proof\">Aggretsuko rage-screaming\u003c/a> about her boss’ abuses, but in a more humanitarian way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Gupta, nothing is more American than barbecue, a culinary tradition that has always encompassed a wide range of different cultures. After all, the word barbecue itself comes from the Arawak word “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915646/barbacoa-mejia-richmond-flea-market\">barbacoa,\u003c/a>” which refers to the wooden structure that the \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/what-became-of-the-taino-73824867/#:~:text=Their%20world%2C%20which%20had%20its,on%20the%20island%20of%20Hispaniola\">Taino-Arawak people of the Caribbean\u003c/a> used for cooking meat many centuries ago. What most Americans think of as barbecue today is an evolution of indigenous traditions, techniques brought over to the U.S. by enslaved Africans and, more recently, a host of different immigrant influences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What better way to celebrate American diversity, then, than through the unifying lens of barbecue?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s edition of BBQ Without Borders will celebrate immigrant food traditions with roots in Cuba, India and Japan, as chefs Lilly Duran of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925774/new-west-oakland-farmers-market-healthy-foods-harvindar-singh\">Oakland’s Clandestina Cocina\u003c/a>, Ron Dumra of Hayward’s \u003ca href=\"https://wahjeewah.live/\">Wah Jee Wah\u003c/a> and Tadayuki Furui of \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/S-F-s-charming-Family-Cafe-one-of-the-city-s-16764614.php\">Family Cafe North Beach\u003c/a> (now closed) will each showcase their own form of barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928823\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928823\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Indian kebabs on a wooden board, with a plate of chutneys on the side.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wah Jee Wah chef Ron Dumra shows off a selection of his Indian-style tikka kebabs. \u003ccite>(Lara Kaur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Duran’s menu, for instance, will feature Cuban-style whole roast pig (lechon) and grilled fish. Dumra will serve his grilled Punjabi chicken tikka kebab. And Furui will offer a selection of yakitori skewers, including grilled chicken thigh, tsukune (meatball) and rice balls. All of the chefs will offer at least one vegetarian entrée, and, to top it all off, Third Culture Bakery will provide dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three featured chefs will also serve as the inspiration for an immersive “sanctuaries” exhibit that will be set up outdoors in the Oakland Museum’s garden. Each interactive structure will show how the chefs “cultivate home.” For instance, Duran’s sacred space is an exploration of the Cuban family home. Furui’s part of the exhibit will show how he finds solace and inspiration in his sewing and woodwork studio. For Dumra, a combination of his mother’s kitchen and his father’s Indian-style grills epitomizes the meaning of home. Each sanctuary space will feature personal found objects, important mementos and photographs that provide a deeper dive into who the chefs are and what immigration has meant for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the delicious barbecue and heartwarming cultural celebration, BBQ Without Borders also supports a good cause. The event is a fundraising partnership with Fruitvale’s \u003ca href=\"https://unitycouncil.org/\">Unity Council\u003c/a> to raise funds to support Bay Area front-line workers, especially those whose documentation status has put them in a vulnerable position during the pandemic. This Resilience Fund supports those folks via unrestricted $500 micro-grants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Gupta puts it, “This event is a way to inspire folks through their palates — to enjoy the food but also hopefully find a deeper connection to the immigrants who contribute in innumerable and invisible ways to the social fabric of this country.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>BBQ Without Borders 2023 will take place at the Oakland Museum (1000 Oak St., Oakland) on Sat., May 13, from 5 to 9 p.m. Tickets are $32–$125 and can be purchased via \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bbq-without-borders-2023-tickets-593388891147\">\u003ci>Eventbrite\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the idea behind the second annual \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bbq-without-borders-2023-tickets-593388891147\">BBQ Without Borders\u003c/a>, a food-based fundraiser that brings the community together to celebrate immigration through dance, music, art and, of course, barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did someone say lechon, kebab and yakitori?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The event — which will take place on May 13 at the Oakland Museum — is the brainchild of \u003ca href=\"https://noimmigrantsnospice.org/\">No Immigrants No Spice\u003c/a>, an Oakland-based nonprofit that supports immigrant food entrepreneurs and celebrates the diversity and joy that they bring to this country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Food is our common denominator and serves as a profound vehicle to inspire curiosity about another culture. We can learn so much about each other through the foods we eat if we do so mindfully,” says founder Vibha Gupta, an ER physician, mother and first-generation Indian American who lives in the East Bay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928808\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928808\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A chef holds yakitori skewers over a Japanese charcoal grill.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/yakitori_Laura-Kaur-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tadayuki Furui of San Francisco’s Family Cafe (now closed) carefully grills traditional Japanese yakitori skewers. \u003ccite>(Lara Kaur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Gupta created the nonprofit as a response to the rise of racism and xenophobia during the Trump presidency. Laughing, she credits \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOt5SmHf2aE\">one of Trevor Noah’s stand-up routines\u003c/a> — in which he says people who hate immigrants shouldn’t be allowed to eat their food — as her inspiration. Think \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedailybeast.com/obsessed/aggretsuko-is-one-of-netflixs-best-shows-heres-the-proof\">Aggretsuko rage-screaming\u003c/a> about her boss’ abuses, but in a more humanitarian way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Gupta, nothing is more American than barbecue, a culinary tradition that has always encompassed a wide range of different cultures. After all, the word barbecue itself comes from the Arawak word “\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13915646/barbacoa-mejia-richmond-flea-market\">barbacoa,\u003c/a>” which refers to the wooden structure that the \u003ca href=\"https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/what-became-of-the-taino-73824867/#:~:text=Their%20world%2C%20which%20had%20its,on%20the%20island%20of%20Hispaniola\">Taino-Arawak people of the Caribbean\u003c/a> used for cooking meat many centuries ago. What most Americans think of as barbecue today is an evolution of indigenous traditions, techniques brought over to the U.S. by enslaved Africans and, more recently, a host of different immigrant influences.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What better way to celebrate American diversity, then, than through the unifying lens of barbecue?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year’s edition of BBQ Without Borders will celebrate immigrant food traditions with roots in Cuba, India and Japan, as chefs Lilly Duran of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925774/new-west-oakland-farmers-market-healthy-foods-harvindar-singh\">Oakland’s Clandestina Cocina\u003c/a>, Ron Dumra of Hayward’s \u003ca href=\"https://wahjeewah.live/\">Wah Jee Wah\u003c/a> and Tadayuki Furui of \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/S-F-s-charming-Family-Cafe-one-of-the-city-s-16764614.php\">Family Cafe North Beach\u003c/a> (now closed) will each showcase their own form of barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928823\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928823\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Indian kebabs on a wooden board, with a plate of chutneys on the side.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/wah-jee-wah_lara-kaur-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wah Jee Wah chef Ron Dumra shows off a selection of his Indian-style tikka kebabs. \u003ccite>(Lara Kaur)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Duran’s menu, for instance, will feature Cuban-style whole roast pig (lechon) and grilled fish. Dumra will serve his grilled Punjabi chicken tikka kebab. And Furui will offer a selection of yakitori skewers, including grilled chicken thigh, tsukune (meatball) and rice balls. All of the chefs will offer at least one vegetarian entrée, and, to top it all off, Third Culture Bakery will provide dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three featured chefs will also serve as the inspiration for an immersive “sanctuaries” exhibit that will be set up outdoors in the Oakland Museum’s garden. Each interactive structure will show how the chefs “cultivate home.” For instance, Duran’s sacred space is an exploration of the Cuban family home. Furui’s part of the exhibit will show how he finds solace and inspiration in his sewing and woodwork studio. For Dumra, a combination of his mother’s kitchen and his father’s Indian-style grills epitomizes the meaning of home. Each sanctuary space will feature personal found objects, important mementos and photographs that provide a deeper dive into who the chefs are and what immigration has meant for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to the delicious barbecue and heartwarming cultural celebration, BBQ Without Borders also supports a good cause. The event is a fundraising partnership with Fruitvale’s \u003ca href=\"https://unitycouncil.org/\">Unity Council\u003c/a> to raise funds to support Bay Area front-line workers, especially those whose documentation status has put them in a vulnerable position during the pandemic. This Resilience Fund supports those folks via unrestricted $500 micro-grants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Gupta puts it, “This event is a way to inspire folks through their palates — to enjoy the food but also hopefully find a deeper connection to the immigrants who contribute in innumerable and invisible ways to the social fabric of this country.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>BBQ Without Borders 2023 will take place at the Oakland Museum (1000 Oak St., Oakland) on Sat., May 13, from 5 to 9 p.m. Tickets are $32–$125 and can be purchased via \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/bbq-without-borders-2023-tickets-593388891147\">\u003ci>Eventbrite\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "The Time a Bay Area Coffee Boycott Helped Stop a Civil War",
"headTitle": "The Time a Bay Area Coffee Boycott Helped Stop a Civil War | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>When you spot the red Folgers tin in the coffee aisle at your local supermarket, you might think of the iconic tagline that says, “The best part of wakin’ up is Folgers in your cup.” But what many coffee lovers might not remember is the time in the early ‘90s when Folgers Coffee was the target of a nation-wide boycott that started right here in San Francisco. The goal? To help stop a civil war in El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of the newer, trendier coffee brands that now dominate the Bay Area, it’s easy to forget that Folgers has a long history in San Francisco. It was one of the “Big Three” coffee companies, along with Hills Brothers and MJB, that was founded in San Francisco in the late 19th century. These days, the company is probably best known for the convenience of its instant coffee and ground coffee blends. But in the beginning, Folgers built up its reputation as one of America’s leading coffee brands on the basis of quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Good quality beans, roasted properly, produce good quality coffee — and that was the name of the game,” says Monika Trobits, a coffee historian and the author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/52771645-bay-area-coffee\">\u003ci>Bay Area Coffee\u003c/i>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In those early years, the highest-quality green, unroasted coffee beans arriving at the Port of San Francisco came from Central America — including a large quantity that was imported from El Salvador. \u003cb>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around the same time, in the late 19th century, coffee had become one of the main sources of income for El Salvador’s wealthy landowner class. These coffee plantation owners were oligarchs who, over the course of the next 100 years, took more and more land from the country’s indigenous people, got rich off the crop and used that wealth to exert influence over the country’s politics and military. By the 1970s, socioeconomic inequality in El Salvador had become even more stark, and the country began to experience widespread civil unrest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Salvadorans needed agrarian reform, immediate education and healthcare,” explains Felix Kury, a retired San Francisco State lecturer who taught mental health courses in the Latin American Studies Department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928589\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928589\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury.jpg\" alt=\"Man in glasses shows an article that he's loaded onto his iPad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Retired SF State lecturer Felix Kury was active in the grassroots movement advocating for political change in El Salvador. \u003ccite>(Sebastian Miño-Bucheli)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Young Salvadorans like Kury began to leave their country to organize abroad, sending aid home or participating in direct protest actions such as occupying their local Salvadoran consulate. Back in El Salvador, left-leaning guerillas took to arms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 1980 \u003ca href=\"https://www.reuters.com/article/us-el-salvador-romero-idUSKCN1MY03P\">assassination of Archbishop Oscar Romero\u003c/a>, who was popular for denouncing violence and criticizing the Salvadoran military, proved to be the last straw that plunged the country into civil war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[A soldier] shot him right as he was lifting the hostia (communion bread)…en el momento más sagrada” — the most sacred moment, Kury recalls. “The murder of the bishop gave a signal to anyone that no one will be safe.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o15gEAdlMUQ\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, in the U.S., Kury says, “All of us began to say, ‘What do we do? We have to go beyond working with Salvadorans to develop a movement.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, Salvadorans like Kury joined other like-minded supporters to form the East Bay Interfaith Task Force on El Salvador. One day in November 1980, he recalls, Salvadoran port workers informed the task force that the U.S. government was bringing tanks and heavy artillery to the ports in Oakland — and that they planned to send those arms to support the military regime in El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the help of the International Longshore and Warehouse Union, the task force sprang into action, organizing a blockade that prevented ports all over the West Coast from sending arms to El Salvador. Similar to the United Farm Workers’ organizing efforts in the ‘60s, Salvadoran activists had begun to seek broad support for their movement. It was no longer just Salvadorans protesting the civil war — Chicanos and Americans showed up at the port too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blockade also set the stage for an even more ambitious protest action to hit El Salvador where it would hurt the most — the coffee industry that enabled the military regime’s most powerful members to build up their wealth.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Grassroots Movement\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Around this time, a media organization called the Central American Television Project was working to spread awareness about U.S. policy in Central America. In 1985, it hired Fred Ross Jr., a San Francisco-based labor organizer — who \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2022/12/01/fred-ross-jr-obituary\">passed away last year \u003c/a>— as its new executive director. The organization’s name changed to Neighbor to Neighbor, and under Ross’ direction, it took a grassroots approach to stopping U.S. aid to Nicaragua and El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This organization had people all over the country,” Ross’ widow, the labor attorney Margo Feinberg, recalls. “They impacted many congressional races to try to change the numbers in the legislature to cut back on the funding to El Salvador.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott.jpg\" alt='A flyer reads, \"The Death Squad\" and \"Boycott Salvadoran Coffee.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"2485\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-800x1035.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-1020x1320.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-768x994.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-1187x1536.jpg 1187w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-1582x2048.jpg 1582w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Neighbor to Neighbor’s flyers in support of the Salvadoran coffee boycott. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Neighbor to Neighbor)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Feinberg, her late husband first witnessed the connection between what was happening to Salvadoran refugees and the U.S. role in the war when he worked as a public defender in San Francisco. Ross and his fellow organizers had already begun contemplating the idea of a coffee boycott when the murders of six Jesuit priests, a housekeeper and her daughter in 1989 \u003ca href=\"https://www.fredrossproject.org/fred-ross-jr-timeline\">propelled Neighbor to Neighbor to take immediate action\u003c/a>. The boycott’s main target was Folgers Coffee, for selling Salvadoran coffee beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, around 60% of Salvadoran coffee harvests were shipped to the United States, the biggest buyer on the market. Neighbor to Neighbor argued that those coffee earnings were part of a vicious cycle of violence through which the wealthy plantation owners continued to finance the Salvadoran government and its death squads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Folgers claimed it only purchased 2% of its beans from El Salvador,” says Trobits, the coffee historian. “But Neighbor to Neighbor wanted them to not purchase any.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928588\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928588\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249.jpg\" alt=\"Woman wearing glasses sits in front of a wall covered in old newspaper clippings and coffee advertisements.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Area coffee historian Monika Trobits’ wall is decorated with old coffee advertisements. \u003ccite>(Sebastian Miño-Bucheli)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trobits says once the news came out that a freighter carrying 34 tons of Salvadoran coffee beans was due to dock in San Francisco in February 1990, about a hundred Neighbor to Neighbor protesters gathered at Pier 96 in the Bayview to establish a picket line, with the support of the longshoremen’s union. \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1990-02-17-me-515-story.html\">Agents of the shipping company convinced the terminal operators\u003c/a> to offload all of the Colombian and Costa Rican coffee – but nothing from El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So the captain decided to move on, sailed up to Vancouver and met the same kind of resistance,” Trobits says, detailing the ship’s journey up and down the Pacific coast. “This freighter — and every one of those beans — ended up going back to El Salvador.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928594\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928594\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001.jpg\" alt='Black-and-white image of protestors taking a knee, holding signs that read, \"Boycott Folgers\" and \"U.S. Out of El Salvador.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1443\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-800x601.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-1020x767.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-768x577.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-1536x1154.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Supporters of the Salvadoran coffee boycott form a picket line at Pier 80 in San Francisco in February 1990. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dennis Hearne / The Fred Ross Project)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Neighbor to Neighbor kept its picket lines going for the next two years. Around the same time, the San Francisco Board of Supervisors also voted to boycott Salvadoran coffee beans, and the California state legislature formally protested the human rights violations against civilians by the Salvadoran military.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a direct result of the boycotts, one of the grandsons from the Gamble family, which founded Procter & Gamble — Folgers’ parent company — pushed for the company to stop buying Salvadoran coffee. P&G, Nestlé and Kraft even took out ads in Salvadoran newspapers urging the government to negotiate a peace settlement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8TZq_GLmR8&t=407s\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of this pressure eventually paid off: Hours before the New Year rang in for 1992, the Salvadoran president and the rebels signed a \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1992-01-01-mn-1052-story.html\">United Nations–sponsored peace accord\u003c/a>. The 12-year war in which 75,000 civilians died finally came to an end. Months later, Neighbor to Neighbor ended its two-year boycott.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Legacy of Coffee Activism\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>It’s been 30 years since the last shots were fired, but the Salvadoran coffee protest’s legacy hasn’t lost its relevance. Feinberg says the boycott’s success made it a model for all types of organizing that have taken place since then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13918088,arts_13899379,arts_13887962']\u003c/span>Today, coffee accounts for a much smaller portion of the Salvadoran economy, and the industry is no longer exclusively dominated by huge plantations — there are \u003ca href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20090907031039/http://www.usaid.gov/stories/elsalvador/cs_elsalvador_coffee.pdf\">also smaller, more sustainability-focused farms \u003c/a>that now supply beans to some of the Bay Area’s trendier third-wave coffee shops. At least one of those shops specifically identifies as Salvadoran — \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/5/20/22445160/abanico-new-coffee-shop-opens-mission-san-francisco\">Abanico Coffee Roasters\u003c/a> in San Francisco’s Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the coffee world continues to be fertile ground for progressive activism. There were, for instance, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/12/business/starbucks-blm-ban-reversed.html\">calls to boycott Starbucks\u003c/a> when it initially banned its employees from wearing Black Lives Matter attire. More recently, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2022/06/30/1106884406/coffee-shop-starbucks-baristas-union-election-cafe\">baristas across the nation have been pushing to unionize their local shops\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, just like during the Salvadoran coffee boycott, the ethics of where a coffee company sources its beans continues to be an important issue. In fact, Trobits says there’s a sort of “fourth wave” of coffee happening right now that’s defined by ethical sourcing, how coffee growers respond to climate change, and baristas and other workers organizing to better their working conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re not at the end,” Trobits says of the movement to make the coffee world more just. “It will probably not ever be over because I don’t see the coffee is going away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trobits says we’re all in this game, those of us who buy, sell or even just appreciate coffee. Like it or not, we all are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Correction: The article originally stated that Archbishop Romero was assassinated in 1979 instead of 1980; it has been updated to clarify the timeline of El Salvador’s left-wing guerrilla movement.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you spot the red Folgers tin in the coffee aisle at your local supermarket, you might think of the iconic tagline that says, “The best part of wakin’ up is Folgers in your cup.” But what many coffee lovers might not remember is the time in the early ‘90s when Folgers Coffee was the target of a nation-wide boycott that started right here in San Francisco. The goal? To help stop a civil war in El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With all of the newer, trendier coffee brands that now dominate the Bay Area, it’s easy to forget that Folgers has a long history in San Francisco. It was one of the “Big Three” coffee companies, along with Hills Brothers and MJB, that was founded in San Francisco in the late 19th century. These days, the company is probably best known for the convenience of its instant coffee and ground coffee blends. But in the beginning, Folgers built up its reputation as one of America’s leading coffee brands on the basis of quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Good quality beans, roasted properly, produce good quality coffee — and that was the name of the game,” says Monika Trobits, a coffee historian and the author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/52771645-bay-area-coffee\">\u003ci>Bay Area Coffee\u003c/i>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In those early years, the highest-quality green, unroasted coffee beans arriving at the Port of San Francisco came from Central America — including a large quantity that was imported from El Salvador. \u003cb>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around the same time, in the late 19th century, coffee had become one of the main sources of income for El Salvador’s wealthy landowner class. These coffee plantation owners were oligarchs who, over the course of the next 100 years, took more and more land from the country’s indigenous people, got rich off the crop and used that wealth to exert influence over the country’s politics and military. By the 1970s, socioeconomic inequality in El Salvador had become even more stark, and the country began to experience widespread civil unrest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Salvadorans needed agrarian reform, immediate education and healthcare,” explains Felix Kury, a retired San Francisco State lecturer who taught mental health courses in the Latin American Studies Department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928589\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928589\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury.jpg\" alt=\"Man in glasses shows an article that he's loaded onto his iPad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/felix-kury-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Retired SF State lecturer Felix Kury was active in the grassroots movement advocating for political change in El Salvador. \u003ccite>(Sebastian Miño-Bucheli)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Young Salvadorans like Kury began to leave their country to organize abroad, sending aid home or participating in direct protest actions such as occupying their local Salvadoran consulate. Back in El Salvador, left-leaning guerillas took to arms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 1980 \u003ca href=\"https://www.reuters.com/article/us-el-salvador-romero-idUSKCN1MY03P\">assassination of Archbishop Oscar Romero\u003c/a>, who was popular for denouncing violence and criticizing the Salvadoran military, proved to be the last straw that plunged the country into civil war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[A soldier] shot him right as he was lifting the hostia (communion bread)…en el momento más sagrada” — the most sacred moment, Kury recalls. “The murder of the bishop gave a signal to anyone that no one will be safe.”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/o15gEAdlMUQ'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/o15gEAdlMUQ'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, in the U.S., Kury says, “All of us began to say, ‘What do we do? We have to go beyond working with Salvadorans to develop a movement.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, Salvadorans like Kury joined other like-minded supporters to form the East Bay Interfaith Task Force on El Salvador. One day in November 1980, he recalls, Salvadoran port workers informed the task force that the U.S. government was bringing tanks and heavy artillery to the ports in Oakland — and that they planned to send those arms to support the military regime in El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the help of the International Longshore and Warehouse Union, the task force sprang into action, organizing a blockade that prevented ports all over the West Coast from sending arms to El Salvador. Similar to the United Farm Workers’ organizing efforts in the ‘60s, Salvadoran activists had begun to seek broad support for their movement. It was no longer just Salvadorans protesting the civil war — Chicanos and Americans showed up at the port too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blockade also set the stage for an even more ambitious protest action to hit El Salvador where it would hurt the most — the coffee industry that enabled the military regime’s most powerful members to build up their wealth.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Grassroots Movement\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Around this time, a media organization called the Central American Television Project was working to spread awareness about U.S. policy in Central America. In 1985, it hired Fred Ross Jr., a San Francisco-based labor organizer — who \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2022/12/01/fred-ross-jr-obituary\">passed away last year \u003c/a>— as its new executive director. The organization’s name changed to Neighbor to Neighbor, and under Ross’ direction, it took a grassroots approach to stopping U.S. aid to Nicaragua and El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This organization had people all over the country,” Ross’ widow, the labor attorney Margo Feinberg, recalls. “They impacted many congressional races to try to change the numbers in the legislature to cut back on the funding to El Salvador.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott.jpg\" alt='A flyer reads, \"The Death Squad\" and \"Boycott Salvadoran Coffee.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"2485\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-800x1035.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-1020x1320.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-160x207.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-768x994.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-1187x1536.jpg 1187w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/savadoran-coffee-boycott-1582x2048.jpg 1582w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of Neighbor to Neighbor’s flyers in support of the Salvadoran coffee boycott. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Neighbor to Neighbor)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Feinberg, her late husband first witnessed the connection between what was happening to Salvadoran refugees and the U.S. role in the war when he worked as a public defender in San Francisco. Ross and his fellow organizers had already begun contemplating the idea of a coffee boycott when the murders of six Jesuit priests, a housekeeper and her daughter in 1989 \u003ca href=\"https://www.fredrossproject.org/fred-ross-jr-timeline\">propelled Neighbor to Neighbor to take immediate action\u003c/a>. The boycott’s main target was Folgers Coffee, for selling Salvadoran coffee beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, around 60% of Salvadoran coffee harvests were shipped to the United States, the biggest buyer on the market. Neighbor to Neighbor argued that those coffee earnings were part of a vicious cycle of violence through which the wealthy plantation owners continued to finance the Salvadoran government and its death squads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Folgers claimed it only purchased 2% of its beans from El Salvador,” says Trobits, the coffee historian. “But Neighbor to Neighbor wanted them to not purchase any.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928588\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928588\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249.jpg\" alt=\"Woman wearing glasses sits in front of a wall covered in old newspaper clippings and coffee advertisements.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/Monica-Trobits_CoffeeInterview03242023-2249-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Area coffee historian Monika Trobits’ wall is decorated with old coffee advertisements. \u003ccite>(Sebastian Miño-Bucheli)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Trobits says once the news came out that a freighter carrying 34 tons of Salvadoran coffee beans was due to dock in San Francisco in February 1990, about a hundred Neighbor to Neighbor protesters gathered at Pier 96 in the Bayview to establish a picket line, with the support of the longshoremen’s union. \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1990-02-17-me-515-story.html\">Agents of the shipping company convinced the terminal operators\u003c/a> to offload all of the Colombian and Costa Rican coffee – but nothing from El Salvador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So the captain decided to move on, sailed up to Vancouver and met the same kind of resistance,” Trobits says, detailing the ship’s journey up and down the Pacific coast. “This freighter — and every one of those beans — ended up going back to El Salvador.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928594\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928594\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001.jpg\" alt='Black-and-white image of protestors taking a knee, holding signs that read, \"Boycott Folgers\" and \"U.S. Out of El Salvador.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1443\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-800x601.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-1020x767.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-768x577.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/boycottfolgers2_001-1536x1154.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Supporters of the Salvadoran coffee boycott form a picket line at Pier 80 in San Francisco in February 1990. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dennis Hearne / The Fred Ross Project)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Neighbor to Neighbor kept its picket lines going for the next two years. Around the same time, the San Francisco Board of Supervisors also voted to boycott Salvadoran coffee beans, and the California state legislature formally protested the human rights violations against civilians by the Salvadoran military.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a direct result of the boycotts, one of the grandsons from the Gamble family, which founded Procter & Gamble — Folgers’ parent company — pushed for the company to stop buying Salvadoran coffee. P&G, Nestlé and Kraft even took out ads in Salvadoran newspapers urging the government to negotiate a peace settlement.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/D8TZq_GLmR8'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/D8TZq_GLmR8'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of this pressure eventually paid off: Hours before the New Year rang in for 1992, the Salvadoran president and the rebels signed a \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1992-01-01-mn-1052-story.html\">United Nations–sponsored peace accord\u003c/a>. The 12-year war in which 75,000 civilians died finally came to an end. Months later, Neighbor to Neighbor ended its two-year boycott.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A Legacy of Coffee Activism\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>It’s been 30 years since the last shots were fired, but the Salvadoran coffee protest’s legacy hasn’t lost its relevance. Feinberg says the boycott’s success made it a model for all types of organizing that have taken place since then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Today, coffee accounts for a much smaller portion of the Salvadoran economy, and the industry is no longer exclusively dominated by huge plantations — there are \u003ca href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20090907031039/http://www.usaid.gov/stories/elsalvador/cs_elsalvador_coffee.pdf\">also smaller, more sustainability-focused farms \u003c/a>that now supply beans to some of the Bay Area’s trendier third-wave coffee shops. At least one of those shops specifically identifies as Salvadoran — \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2021/5/20/22445160/abanico-new-coffee-shop-opens-mission-san-francisco\">Abanico Coffee Roasters\u003c/a> in San Francisco’s Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the coffee world continues to be fertile ground for progressive activism. There were, for instance, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/12/business/starbucks-blm-ban-reversed.html\">calls to boycott Starbucks\u003c/a> when it initially banned its employees from wearing Black Lives Matter attire. More recently, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2022/06/30/1106884406/coffee-shop-starbucks-baristas-union-election-cafe\">baristas across the nation have been pushing to unionize their local shops\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, just like during the Salvadoran coffee boycott, the ethics of where a coffee company sources its beans continues to be an important issue. In fact, Trobits says there’s a sort of “fourth wave” of coffee happening right now that’s defined by ethical sourcing, how coffee growers respond to climate change, and baristas and other workers organizing to better their working conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re not at the end,” Trobits says of the movement to make the coffee world more just. “It will probably not ever be over because I don’t see the coffee is going away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trobits says we’re all in this game, those of us who buy, sell or even just appreciate coffee. Like it or not, we all are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Correction: The article originally stated that Archbishop Romero was assassinated in 1979 instead of 1980; it has been updated to clarify the timeline of El Salvador’s left-wing guerrilla movement.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Reclaiming Cinco de Mayo with a Poblano-Style Dinner in Oakland",
"headTitle": "Reclaiming Cinco de Mayo with a Poblano-Style Dinner in Oakland | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to being Mexican American, or Chicanx, in California, there is a double consciousness that is fractured by our proximity to the U.S.-Mexico border. It’s a beautiful contradiction: to exist physically in one location, but to dream spiritually and psychologically of another home. Within our community, it’s often the role of artists and food makers to merge those worlds, inviting others to grapple with — and enjoy — the flavors and edges of the borderland we occupy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Such is the mission for Marisa Sanchez-Dunning, a 29-year-old Chicana from Berkeley who is launching \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ifonly-creative.com/shop/el-otro-lado\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Otro Lado\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, or “the other side” — a Cinco de Mayo dinner that will honor the food and history of the central Mexican city of Puebla. Puebla is where the battle of Cinco de Mayo took place against the French in 1862 and where the holiday is mostly celebrated in Mexico. (Most regions in Mexico don’t celebrate Cinco de Mayo since it represents a battle that holds minor significance in the country’s larger history.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928472\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-800x480.jpg\" alt=\"an outdoor patio in Oakland with Mexican cacti and warm colors\" width=\"800\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-1020x613.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-160x96.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-1536x922.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">If Only Creative aspires to build spaces like “El Otro Lado” for minority-owned businesses. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Marisa Sanchez-Dunning)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Puebla, it’s still a day of commemoration and celebration. Unlike the Americanized version of the event — which overuses stereotypical symbols of Mexicanidad like Corona beers, Tostitos salsa dip and sombreros — Sanchez-Dunning plans to highlight the day and her heritage with more dimension and accuracy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To help make that happen, an array of diverse food makers from both countries will fly into Oakland for the event, each representing various facets of Mexican foods and cultures, from chocolates and pasteles to mezcal and moles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“How can we do something bigger and better? What’s a milestone in the year I can take and reimagine? Within our community it was Cinco de Mayo,” says Sanchez-Dunning, who will host the event in partnership with her creative studio, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ifonlycreative/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If Only Creative\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I wanted to figure out what that would look like and make sense for a holiday that feels so Americanized. It just feels blindly celebrated without knowing where it stems from. How can we make this holiday better?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928469\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928469\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-800x550.jpg\" alt=\"a platter of colorful, Mexican-style ice creams \" width=\"800\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-1536x1057.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">De La Creamery will be supplying their small-batch Mexican helados. \u003ccite>(Andrea Arevalo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite the biases of our Californian palates, there won’t be any tacos or burritos — since those dishes aren’t typically associated with Puebla. That would be like serving New York-style pizza in New Orleans for Mardi Gras.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13919032,arts_13920076,arts_13918088']Instead, Portland’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacasademamapdx/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Casa de Mamá\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — an all-vegan Mexican American bakery — will handle the main dishes. The menu will include vegan versions of classic Poblano favorites like chiles en nogada — a large Poblano pepper traditionally stuffed with ground meat and spices, then topped with sour cream and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds to form the tri-color of the Mexican flag. Pozole verde, tamalitos, cemitas, flautas and mole Poblano will round out the\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CrLpqiuruZL/?hl=en\"> five-course meal\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Other highlights will include drinking chocolates, agua fresca and Mexican coffee (from Austin’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hijita_co/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hijita\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/drinkbawi/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bawi Agua Fresca\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mercadosinnombre/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mercado Sin Nombre\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, respectively), specially-made \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/paqueramezcal/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Paquera\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> mezcal imported directly from Mexico by the mezcalero himself and Mexican helados from the Bay Area’s own \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/delacreamery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">De La Creamery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13919032/norte-54-modern-mexican-american-bakery-conchas-pan-dulce-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will serve Mexican cakes, and take-home “goodie bags” will include original art from L.A.’s Latina-owned brand, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/raggedytiff/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Raggedy Tiff\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928473\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928473\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a plate of Mexican pastries are served on a wooden table top\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Norte 54’s pasteles will cap off the five-course dinner. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sanchez-Dunning hopes to turn El Otro Lado into a recurring series with rotating guests.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[If Only Creative] was born out of creative frustration, frustration in general. I felt like I was working for people who were not aligned with me — really wealthy white men. It wasn’t the vibe,” Sanchez-Dunning says about starting her creative agency in 2021 and taking the leap to host events like El Otro Lado. “This was [created from] my day-to-day rebellious daydreams.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-12127869 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Otro Lado is happening on Fri., May 5 from 6 to 9:30 p.m at 4200 Piedmont Ave., Oakland. The full dinner menu with non-alcoholic beverages costs \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$111.11 per guest\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Unlimited mezcal cocktails are also available for an optional $30. Tickets are available \u003ca href=\"https://linktr.ee/ifonlycreative\">online\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Reclaiming Cinco de Mayo with a Poblano-Style Dinner in Oakland | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to being Mexican American, or Chicanx, in California, there is a double consciousness that is fractured by our proximity to the U.S.-Mexico border. It’s a beautiful contradiction: to exist physically in one location, but to dream spiritually and psychologically of another home. Within our community, it’s often the role of artists and food makers to merge those worlds, inviting others to grapple with — and enjoy — the flavors and edges of the borderland we occupy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Such is the mission for Marisa Sanchez-Dunning, a 29-year-old Chicana from Berkeley who is launching \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.ifonly-creative.com/shop/el-otro-lado\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Otro Lado\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, or “the other side” — a Cinco de Mayo dinner that will honor the food and history of the central Mexican city of Puebla. Puebla is where the battle of Cinco de Mayo took place against the French in 1862 and where the holiday is mostly celebrated in Mexico. (Most regions in Mexico don’t celebrate Cinco de Mayo since it represents a battle that holds minor significance in the country’s larger history.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928472\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928472\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-800x480.jpg\" alt=\"an outdoor patio in Oakland with Mexican cacti and warm colors\" width=\"800\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-800x480.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-1020x613.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-160x96.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-768x461.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1-1536x922.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/space1.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">If Only Creative aspires to build spaces like “El Otro Lado” for minority-owned businesses. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Marisa Sanchez-Dunning)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Puebla, it’s still a day of commemoration and celebration. Unlike the Americanized version of the event — which overuses stereotypical symbols of Mexicanidad like Corona beers, Tostitos salsa dip and sombreros — Sanchez-Dunning plans to highlight the day and her heritage with more dimension and accuracy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To help make that happen, an array of diverse food makers from both countries will fly into Oakland for the event, each representing various facets of Mexican foods and cultures, from chocolates and pasteles to mezcal and moles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“How can we do something bigger and better? What’s a milestone in the year I can take and reimagine? Within our community it was Cinco de Mayo,” says Sanchez-Dunning, who will host the event in partnership with her creative studio, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/ifonlycreative/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If Only Creative\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I wanted to figure out what that would look like and make sense for a holiday that feels so Americanized. It just feels blindly celebrated without knowing where it stems from. How can we make this holiday better?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928469\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928469\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-800x550.jpg\" alt=\"a platter of colorful, Mexican-style ice creams \" width=\"800\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery-1536x1057.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/delacreamery.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">De La Creamery will be supplying their small-batch Mexican helados. \u003ccite>(Andrea Arevalo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite the biases of our Californian palates, there won’t be any tacos or burritos — since those dishes aren’t typically associated with Puebla. That would be like serving New York-style pizza in New Orleans for Mardi Gras.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Instead, Portland’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacasademamapdx/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">La Casa de Mamá\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — an all-vegan Mexican American bakery — will handle the main dishes. The menu will include vegan versions of classic Poblano favorites like chiles en nogada — a large Poblano pepper traditionally stuffed with ground meat and spices, then topped with sour cream and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds to form the tri-color of the Mexican flag. Pozole verde, tamalitos, cemitas, flautas and mole Poblano will round out the\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CrLpqiuruZL/?hl=en\"> five-course meal\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Other highlights will include drinking chocolates, agua fresca and Mexican coffee (from Austin’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hijita_co/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hijita\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/drinkbawi/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bawi Agua Fresca\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mercadosinnombre/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mercado Sin Nombre\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, respectively), specially-made \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/paqueramezcal/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Paquera\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> mezcal imported directly from Mexico by the mezcalero himself and Mexican helados from the Bay Area’s own \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/delacreamery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">De La Creamery\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13919032/norte-54-modern-mexican-american-bakery-conchas-pan-dulce-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Norte 54\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will serve Mexican cakes, and take-home “goodie bags” will include original art from L.A.’s Latina-owned brand, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/raggedytiff/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Raggedy Tiff\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928473\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13928473\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a plate of Mexican pastries are served on a wooden table top\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/05/norte54.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Norte 54’s pasteles will cap off the five-course dinner. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sanchez-Dunning hopes to turn El Otro Lado into a recurring series with rotating guests.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[If Only Creative] was born out of creative frustration, frustration in general. I felt like I was working for people who were not aligned with me — really wealthy white men. It wasn’t the vibe,” Sanchez-Dunning says about starting her creative agency in 2021 and taking the leap to host events like El Otro Lado. “This was [created from] my day-to-day rebellious daydreams.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-12127869 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">El Otro Lado is happening on Fri., May 5 from 6 to 9:30 p.m at 4200 Piedmont Ave., Oakland. The full dinner menu with non-alcoholic beverages costs \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$111.11 per guest\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Unlimited mezcal cocktails are also available for an optional $30. Tickets are available \u003ca href=\"https://linktr.ee/ifonlycreative\">online\u003c/a>.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "mishmish-vegan-palestinian-pop-up",
"title": "Mishmish Reimagines Family-Style Palestinian Bites for Bay Area Vegans",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the East Bay. On a spring afternoon, you can wander into an Oakland punk bar with an outdoor patio to enjoy a cocktail with a longtime friend and discuss the rise of artificial intelligence with a stranger at your table — all while sharing plates of fattoush (an Arabic salad) and foul medammes (a fava bean dip served with oil and pita bread) beneath the hazy sun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slow moments like this are welcomed in our fast-paced world — a chance to check in, make new connections and nourish a sense of self-care and community through an exchange of cultural lessons and life experiences. And, at least for this particular dive bar pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/\">Mishmish\u003c/a> — Michelle Nazzal’s take on vegan Palestinian recipes with a Bay Area lens — is at the center of it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historically, \u003ca href=\"https://decolonizepalestine.com/intro/palestine-throughout-history/\">Palestine and its diaspora have had to fight to resist erasure and preserve their identity\u003c/a>. Nazzal’s grandparents immigrated from Palestine to San Francisco in the 1960s, and her family has long used food as a way to sustain themselves and those around them. After opening Arabic markets around the city, the family eventually moved to Petaluma, where Nazzal grew up taking notes on her grandmother’s cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Nazzal, who is mixed white and Palestinian, food transcends a mere meal. Instead, it becomes a way to acknowledge the resilience of others, a conduit to pass down sacred knowledge and a gathering point for intergenerational optimism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stopping by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elismilehighclub/\">Eli’s Mile High Club\u003c/a> — where the pop-up ran throughout April — to experience Mishmish, I asked Nazzal about her connection to Palestine, Northern California and her grandmother’s recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Let’s start with “Mishmish.” What does that concept mean for you, and how did it turn into a food pop-up?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Michelle Nazzal: \u003c/b>It’s something that’s very personal to me. It means “apricot” in Arabic. [But it’s also] a nickname my grandpa gave me as a kid. People in my family call me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was putting together Mishmish, it started out in a different format. I was a graphic designer [at the time] and I was thinking of ways to document food. I spent time with my grandma and wanted to catalog it. It started out as a [PDF] cookbook project, a personal thing with family photos and things like that. It sort of became a thing where I made food for friends, and they asked if I had a pop-up. My parents had a grocery and deli around San Francisco but I hadn’t thought about getting into making food. It’s different [from the family’s market]. It’s Palestinian and vegan. A lot of Palestinian food is innately vegan, but I took time to change recipes that are usually meat-centric. It started out in 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928353\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928353\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"a tray of Palestinian food is served at an outdoor patio in Oakland\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foul medammes and fattoush served with a sweet pastry and pita bread. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In thinking about how I want Mishmish to feel, it’s welcoming and community-based. Providing things that are authentic and mostly traditional and hard to find, things I grew up with that are weird and niche, like jameed, a dried yogurt ball. It’s a really big process, but there’s no vegan version of that. I want to figure that out and offer it. Having my own twist on things that I’ve discovered and played around with as a vegan [that incorporate] other Arabic flavors as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are apricots common in Palestinian food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apricots are used frequently in desserts. You can get it in Turkish delight, puddings are made from or topped with it, compotes, jams. [It’s used] as a sweet component. There’s also a saying in Arabic, “Bukra fil mish-mish.” The season for apricots is so quick. They ripen and go bad really quickly. It’s a saying everyone always says. It’s like saying “when pigs fly.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your family migrate from Palestine to the Bay Area, and in what ways has food been passed on throughout that transition?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up with this food because of my grandma. My grandparents immigrated here in the ‘60s with a rich culture and background and all their recipes. When \u003ca href=\"https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/u-n-votes-for-partition-of-palestine\">the partition happened in the ‘40s\u003c/a>, my grandma was expelled from the land, which is now Tel Aviv. They decided they wanted to give the family a bit of a better life. A lot of [Palestinians] moved in the ‘60s. My family moved directly to San Francisco, around Cole Valley. They lived in one building, one family per floor, but all our family was together. My dad got to grow up with his first cousins in the same building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928382\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928382\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg\" alt='Old black-and-white photo of a woman standing inside a deli/market; a neon sign in back reads, \"Burgie!\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1536x1057.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal’s grandmother, Laurain Nazzal, inside the market her family used to run at 41st and Balboa in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michelle Nazzal)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My grandma grew up on a farm in Jericho, raising her food and livestock. The perspective she brings to [foodmaking] is from her region. My grandma taught me how to break down a vegetable or animal [because] it all has a purpose. We honor it. There’s something special about that. She showed me how to make a lot of things fully from scratch. There’s a tenderness and slowness to that. It can take multiple days; it’s involved and hands-on to prepare a big dish. It’s so community-based and community-oriented. Palestinians have a connection to the soil and agriculture which has been passed down through generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in the diaspora and having never gone to Palestine has been challenging, so my direct connection is through food and recipes. That’s how I connect to ancestral things I’ve inherited from my family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why is it important for you to serve Palestinian food in today’s Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s so much erasure happening with Palestine — the people, culture, land. Being in diaspora, you’re one step removed from everything, and the further you get and water it down, the more it gets diluted and starts disappearing. In the diaspora, it’s a good idea for us to represent those roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928383\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg\" alt=\"Tattooed woman wearing black plastic gloves prepares a plate of rice inside a restaurant kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal says she wants to introduce diners to Palestinian dishes that go beyond the usual hummus and shawarma. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My family comes from a Christian background, and there are a lot of Christian Palestinians in the Bay — especially in San Francisco, San Jose. If we went to a market, we knew people were Palestinian but it was never broadly announced. It’s challenging to honor your background as a small business owner, making sure it doesn’t affect your business. It was more challenging perhaps to do that back then, but it’s important to me to make that an essential part of what I’m doing. I don’t shy away from it. I have a punk and anarchist background so it’s important to honor that. Sharing my food, that’s important. Removing Palestine from it isn’t doing justice to the sacrifices my family has made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What challenges have you faced as a Palestinian American food maker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people think of places like the Arab region there tends to be a stereotype about the people or how the food will taste. With Arab food people default to shawarma, falafel, hummus. But there’s so much nuance to our food. It’s challenging when you have a pop-up because there are certain expectations to [serve] things like hummus. But I don’t always want to give that to people. I want to share dishes I grew up with that are special to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item you serve at Mishmish? And what’s an example of a traditional Palestinian dish that represents comfort for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928355\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1366px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1366\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg 1366w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-800x1199.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1020x1529.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-160x240.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-768x1151.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1025x1536.jpeg 1025w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1366px) 100vw, 1366px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bazella, a carrot and green pea stew, served at Mishmish. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My cashew labneh is a big hit. People who are lactose intolerant or maybe have never had labneh before love it. I’ve been a vegetarian for a long time and went vegan five or six years ago. I had to figure out how to replace knafeh, which is a cheese-based dessert, and labneh [with vegan substitutes]. That’s really special for me to share with people who have a similar background to experience and invoke those memories, but also for those who haven’t had it before to introduce those flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Depending upon where you’re from in Palestinian, there are very regional dishes. Labneh is, traditionally, yogurt that has been salted over time and fermented for over a week or so. Knafeh is very Palestinian, from Nablus. My family uses sweet and salty cheese and dough, like shredded filo, with orange powder and butter for a crunchy effect. It gets baked and dusted in sugar — it’s syrupy, very sweet, salty, crunchy. Depending on which region you’re from, they will make it differently. In Gaza they don’t use cheese; they make more of a baklava filling with spiced walnuts and pistachios. But it’s specifically Palestinian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are variations [of similar dishes in other regions]. Labneh, hummus, falafel — a lot of people in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq and Yemen, they all make similar food. But it’s important to highlight things that are specific to your culture, to make those differentiations. That’s important to me with Mishmish — to make dishes that have inspirations, maybe from Persian food or other Arab countries that are adjacent to Palestine, but I want to make sure to make that differentiation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928354\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg\" alt=\"a menu for Mishmish, a Palestinian pop-up, offers a variety of family-style plates\" width=\"750\" height=\"1104\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg 750w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium-160x236.jpeg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mishmish offers a rotating array of Palestinian and SSWANA-inspired vegan foods. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has growing up in San Francisco and Petaluma influenced your approach to food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes take special trips around the Bay to get something I’m specifically looking for. I remember being a kid and taking Muni with my grandma and going to different Filipino vendors to find things that are similar in our cultures. My grandma would find the closest possible thing to use in her cooking. That’s really special — being able to adapt and support other people and cultures. It’s a cool cross-cultural way of honoring food. It gives you a wider appreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few businesses here are an inspiration for me. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/queens_sf/?hl=en\">Queens\u003c/a> in San Francisco, a Korean market. They make and vend Korean foods and ingredients you can’t really find anywhere else. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>, of course, is an amazing Arab street food place and bakery. I love their idea of creating equitable workplaces for people. That’s important to how I structure my business and how I want to hire and provide a safe work environment for people who are paid well. I also like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/liondancecafe/\">Lion Dance\u003c/a> — they’re a vegan Singaporean restaurant here in Oakland. I appreciate their approach. One of the owners is Singaporean and the other is Italian, so they’ve created a beautiful menu that honors the authenticity of their foods and cultures. I celebrate that and want to see that more for SSWANA people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s SSWANA?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13918017,arts_13925984,arts_13920581']\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13918017/jeweled-rice-art-persian-food-sswana-middle-eastern-pop-up\">SSWANA\u003c/a> means South Asian, Southwest Asian and North African. When you think of Middle Eastern versus SSWANA, SSWANA is actually more accurate. Middle Eastern is a colonized word and term that was created by people who aren’t Arab. I’m trying to help change that narrative by changing my vocabulary. I’ve had a wild experience filling out my ethnicity on census forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>That’s dope, I didn’t know that. I think specificity is important for the liberation of all groups. What’s next on your food journey?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels good to see where I’ve gone without any [formal] cooking background. I’ve cooked with my family throughout my life, but by figuring out how to make food to order and things like that, I’ve made progress. I’m always wondering: What feels good? How do I want to move forward? What that means for me right now is I’ll probably move away from the pop-up format and go into farmers markets and package my food and eventually keep building toward my brick-and-mortar grocery and deli. When I first started out I didn’t have the intention of it being a full-blown food project, but it went on that trajectory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003ci>Mishmish\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> operates as a roaming pop-up around the Bay Area. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Check online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for updates on locations and menus. They appear every second Sunday of the month at Birba Wine Bar (458 Grove St., San Francisco) from 1–8 p.m. They will also pop up at\u003c/i> \u003ci>Millennium Restaurant (5912 College Ave., Oakland) on Sun., May 21 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Abacus Row (1256 Mason St., San Francisco) on Sat., June 24, time TBD.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the East Bay. On a spring afternoon, you can wander into an Oakland punk bar with an outdoor patio to enjoy a cocktail with a longtime friend and discuss the rise of artificial intelligence with a stranger at your table — all while sharing plates of fattoush (an Arabic salad) and foul medammes (a fava bean dip served with oil and pita bread) beneath the hazy sun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slow moments like this are welcomed in our fast-paced world — a chance to check in, make new connections and nourish a sense of self-care and community through an exchange of cultural lessons and life experiences. And, at least for this particular dive bar pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/\">Mishmish\u003c/a> — Michelle Nazzal’s take on vegan Palestinian recipes with a Bay Area lens — is at the center of it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historically, \u003ca href=\"https://decolonizepalestine.com/intro/palestine-throughout-history/\">Palestine and its diaspora have had to fight to resist erasure and preserve their identity\u003c/a>. Nazzal’s grandparents immigrated from Palestine to San Francisco in the 1960s, and her family has long used food as a way to sustain themselves and those around them. After opening Arabic markets around the city, the family eventually moved to Petaluma, where Nazzal grew up taking notes on her grandmother’s cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Nazzal, who is mixed white and Palestinian, food transcends a mere meal. Instead, it becomes a way to acknowledge the resilience of others, a conduit to pass down sacred knowledge and a gathering point for intergenerational optimism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stopping by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elismilehighclub/\">Eli’s Mile High Club\u003c/a> — where the pop-up ran throughout April — to experience Mishmish, I asked Nazzal about her connection to Palestine, Northern California and her grandmother’s recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Let’s start with “Mishmish.” What does that concept mean for you, and how did it turn into a food pop-up?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Michelle Nazzal: \u003c/b>It’s something that’s very personal to me. It means “apricot” in Arabic. [But it’s also] a nickname my grandpa gave me as a kid. People in my family call me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was putting together Mishmish, it started out in a different format. I was a graphic designer [at the time] and I was thinking of ways to document food. I spent time with my grandma and wanted to catalog it. It started out as a [PDF] cookbook project, a personal thing with family photos and things like that. It sort of became a thing where I made food for friends, and they asked if I had a pop-up. My parents had a grocery and deli around San Francisco but I hadn’t thought about getting into making food. It’s different [from the family’s market]. It’s Palestinian and vegan. A lot of Palestinian food is innately vegan, but I took time to change recipes that are usually meat-centric. It started out in 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928353\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928353\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"a tray of Palestinian food is served at an outdoor patio in Oakland\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foul medammes and fattoush served with a sweet pastry and pita bread. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In thinking about how I want Mishmish to feel, it’s welcoming and community-based. Providing things that are authentic and mostly traditional and hard to find, things I grew up with that are weird and niche, like jameed, a dried yogurt ball. It’s a really big process, but there’s no vegan version of that. I want to figure that out and offer it. Having my own twist on things that I’ve discovered and played around with as a vegan [that incorporate] other Arabic flavors as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are apricots common in Palestinian food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apricots are used frequently in desserts. You can get it in Turkish delight, puddings are made from or topped with it, compotes, jams. [It’s used] as a sweet component. There’s also a saying in Arabic, “Bukra fil mish-mish.” The season for apricots is so quick. They ripen and go bad really quickly. It’s a saying everyone always says. It’s like saying “when pigs fly.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your family migrate from Palestine to the Bay Area, and in what ways has food been passed on throughout that transition?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up with this food because of my grandma. My grandparents immigrated here in the ‘60s with a rich culture and background and all their recipes. When \u003ca href=\"https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/u-n-votes-for-partition-of-palestine\">the partition happened in the ‘40s\u003c/a>, my grandma was expelled from the land, which is now Tel Aviv. They decided they wanted to give the family a bit of a better life. A lot of [Palestinians] moved in the ‘60s. My family moved directly to San Francisco, around Cole Valley. They lived in one building, one family per floor, but all our family was together. My dad got to grow up with his first cousins in the same building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928382\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928382\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg\" alt='Old black-and-white photo of a woman standing inside a deli/market; a neon sign in back reads, \"Burgie!\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1536x1057.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal’s grandmother, Laurain Nazzal, inside the market her family used to run at 41st and Balboa in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michelle Nazzal)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My grandma grew up on a farm in Jericho, raising her food and livestock. The perspective she brings to [foodmaking] is from her region. My grandma taught me how to break down a vegetable or animal [because] it all has a purpose. We honor it. There’s something special about that. She showed me how to make a lot of things fully from scratch. There’s a tenderness and slowness to that. It can take multiple days; it’s involved and hands-on to prepare a big dish. It’s so community-based and community-oriented. Palestinians have a connection to the soil and agriculture which has been passed down through generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in the diaspora and having never gone to Palestine has been challenging, so my direct connection is through food and recipes. That’s how I connect to ancestral things I’ve inherited from my family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why is it important for you to serve Palestinian food in today’s Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s so much erasure happening with Palestine — the people, culture, land. Being in diaspora, you’re one step removed from everything, and the further you get and water it down, the more it gets diluted and starts disappearing. In the diaspora, it’s a good idea for us to represent those roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928383\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg\" alt=\"Tattooed woman wearing black plastic gloves prepares a plate of rice inside a restaurant kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal says she wants to introduce diners to Palestinian dishes that go beyond the usual hummus and shawarma. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My family comes from a Christian background, and there are a lot of Christian Palestinians in the Bay — especially in San Francisco, San Jose. If we went to a market, we knew people were Palestinian but it was never broadly announced. It’s challenging to honor your background as a small business owner, making sure it doesn’t affect your business. It was more challenging perhaps to do that back then, but it’s important to me to make that an essential part of what I’m doing. I don’t shy away from it. I have a punk and anarchist background so it’s important to honor that. Sharing my food, that’s important. Removing Palestine from it isn’t doing justice to the sacrifices my family has made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What challenges have you faced as a Palestinian American food maker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people think of places like the Arab region there tends to be a stereotype about the people or how the food will taste. With Arab food people default to shawarma, falafel, hummus. But there’s so much nuance to our food. It’s challenging when you have a pop-up because there are certain expectations to [serve] things like hummus. But I don’t always want to give that to people. I want to share dishes I grew up with that are special to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item you serve at Mishmish? And what’s an example of a traditional Palestinian dish that represents comfort for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928355\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1366px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1366\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg 1366w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-800x1199.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1020x1529.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-160x240.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-768x1151.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1025x1536.jpeg 1025w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1366px) 100vw, 1366px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bazella, a carrot and green pea stew, served at Mishmish. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My cashew labneh is a big hit. People who are lactose intolerant or maybe have never had labneh before love it. I’ve been a vegetarian for a long time and went vegan five or six years ago. I had to figure out how to replace knafeh, which is a cheese-based dessert, and labneh [with vegan substitutes]. That’s really special for me to share with people who have a similar background to experience and invoke those memories, but also for those who haven’t had it before to introduce those flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Depending upon where you’re from in Palestinian, there are very regional dishes. Labneh is, traditionally, yogurt that has been salted over time and fermented for over a week or so. Knafeh is very Palestinian, from Nablus. My family uses sweet and salty cheese and dough, like shredded filo, with orange powder and butter for a crunchy effect. It gets baked and dusted in sugar — it’s syrupy, very sweet, salty, crunchy. Depending on which region you’re from, they will make it differently. In Gaza they don’t use cheese; they make more of a baklava filling with spiced walnuts and pistachios. But it’s specifically Palestinian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are variations [of similar dishes in other regions]. Labneh, hummus, falafel — a lot of people in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq and Yemen, they all make similar food. But it’s important to highlight things that are specific to your culture, to make those differentiations. That’s important to me with Mishmish — to make dishes that have inspirations, maybe from Persian food or other Arab countries that are adjacent to Palestine, but I want to make sure to make that differentiation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928354\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg\" alt=\"a menu for Mishmish, a Palestinian pop-up, offers a variety of family-style plates\" width=\"750\" height=\"1104\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg 750w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium-160x236.jpeg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mishmish offers a rotating array of Palestinian and SSWANA-inspired vegan foods. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has growing up in San Francisco and Petaluma influenced your approach to food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes take special trips around the Bay to get something I’m specifically looking for. I remember being a kid and taking Muni with my grandma and going to different Filipino vendors to find things that are similar in our cultures. My grandma would find the closest possible thing to use in her cooking. That’s really special — being able to adapt and support other people and cultures. It’s a cool cross-cultural way of honoring food. It gives you a wider appreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few businesses here are an inspiration for me. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/queens_sf/?hl=en\">Queens\u003c/a> in San Francisco, a Korean market. They make and vend Korean foods and ingredients you can’t really find anywhere else. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>, of course, is an amazing Arab street food place and bakery. I love their idea of creating equitable workplaces for people. That’s important to how I structure my business and how I want to hire and provide a safe work environment for people who are paid well. I also like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/liondancecafe/\">Lion Dance\u003c/a> — they’re a vegan Singaporean restaurant here in Oakland. I appreciate their approach. One of the owners is Singaporean and the other is Italian, so they’ve created a beautiful menu that honors the authenticity of their foods and cultures. I celebrate that and want to see that more for SSWANA people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s SSWANA?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13918017/jeweled-rice-art-persian-food-sswana-middle-eastern-pop-up\">SSWANA\u003c/a> means South Asian, Southwest Asian and North African. When you think of Middle Eastern versus SSWANA, SSWANA is actually more accurate. Middle Eastern is a colonized word and term that was created by people who aren’t Arab. I’m trying to help change that narrative by changing my vocabulary. I’ve had a wild experience filling out my ethnicity on census forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>That’s dope, I didn’t know that. I think specificity is important for the liberation of all groups. What’s next on your food journey?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels good to see where I’ve gone without any [formal] cooking background. I’ve cooked with my family throughout my life, but by figuring out how to make food to order and things like that, I’ve made progress. I’m always wondering: What feels good? How do I want to move forward? What that means for me right now is I’ll probably move away from the pop-up format and go into farmers markets and package my food and eventually keep building toward my brick-and-mortar grocery and deli. When I first started out I didn’t have the intention of it being a full-blown food project, but it went on that trajectory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003ci>Mishmish\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> operates as a roaming pop-up around the Bay Area. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Check online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for updates on locations and menus. They appear every second Sunday of the month at Birba Wine Bar (458 Grove St., San Francisco) from 1–8 p.m. They will also pop up at\u003c/i> \u003ci>Millennium Restaurant (5912 College Ave., Oakland) on Sun., May 21 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Abacus Row (1256 Mason St., San Francisco) on Sat., June 24, time TBD.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How a Punk Rock–Inspired Pizza Shop Helped Me Feel at Home in Sacramento",
"headTitle": "How a Punk Rock–Inspired Pizza Shop Helped Me Feel at Home in Sacramento | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Two summers ago, when I told a fellow skater and frequent local of the Rockridge BART parking lot — a popular Oakland skate spot — that I was moving to Sacramento, he immediately recommended \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/a>. The downtown pizzeria was, in his opinion, one of the city’s best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food recommendations are an everyday occurrence, but a referral from a skater — a member of a subculture rich with niche tastes and preferences measured to the millimeter, plus a ground level relationship with cities — is something I take to heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located steps from the California State Capitol Park on the corner of 14th and O Streets, Pizza Supreme Being is what I frequently describe as a spotless, well-organized merch table at a hardcore show that just happens to sell amazing sourdough slices and pies. According to co-owner Ben Roberts, I’m not far off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I legitimately run this brand like I would a hardcore band or like a skateboard company,” Roberts explains. He approaches speciality pizza pies “as like a single for a band.” Limited, one-and-done merch drops create the type of cultural FOMO Roberts himself has fallen victim to, growing up skateboarding, playing in bands and going to underground shows. “I love seeing things out in the wild that I did happen to miss,” he explains. “It brings me back to those moments and things in my life that I was always so drawn to. I gotta make sure that I don’t lose touch with that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928215\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928215\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Roberts in a black punk rock T-shirt poses along with his pizza shop's employees, all dressed in white.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roberts (left) and his crew run the shop like it’s a skateboard brand or like they’re selling merch at a hardcore punk show. \u003ccite>(José Vadi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After years in fine dining, Roberts started Pizza Supreme Being as a pop-up around 2015 after building a transportable wood-fire oven. He spent four years serving slices at bars and wineries on weekends, building a local following serving pies with a more standard yeasted dough before transitioning to naturally leavened sourdough per the recommendation of wife and business partner, Pembe Sonmez-Roberts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to feed the [sourdough] starter twice a day,” Roberts says, explaining that this wasn’t practical in the business’s early years. Once they made the switch, however, the end result tasted “worlds better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They got keys to the restaurant in March 2019, opened by April, and celebrated their one-year anniversary by transitioning to shelter in place during the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Three years later, “I feel like this is what’s normal,” Roberts explains. Even now the restaurant only offers outdoor dining and to-go orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the original restaurant dream was fork and knives with wood-fired pies, the reality-driven plan is affordable slices and pies “with superior ingredients.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I put all of our focus on our dough and our cheese blend,” Roberts says, detailing the organic tomatoes and never-bromated U.S. milled flour he uses daily. He also makes a signature homemade ranch dressing that when purchased online includes a YouTube tutorial link from Roberts himself. But lest you think everything on the menu has artisanal ambitions, Roberts says, “I also put Spam on pizza.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Spam is a trademark of the restaurant’s take on Hawaiian pizza, along with jalapeño and pineapple. The Heatwave Pizza combines hot coppa with jalapeño and Mike’s Hot Honey. And regulars know to come early (and hungry) enough to snag a square pepperoni slice, topped to the Detroit-style corners with pepperoni cups, before they sell out — and make no mistake, Pizza Supreme Being’s whole lineup of pizza always winds up selling out. Lining up to the kiosk window to place an order feels less like an exclusive foodie experience and more akin to buying tickets to a show. Slices are served to your seats outside, where government professionals, cross-city bike crews, pre-gaming hardcore show kids, skaters, families and beyond intersect in allegiance to a supreme being of a sourdough crust perfected to the last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928222\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928222\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a pizza topped with hot coppa and jalapeños. \" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Heatwave pizza combines hot coppa, jalapeños and Mike’s Hot Honey. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s also impressive for such a small restaurant is that it hosts a whole network of local, multicultural food industry upstarts. Eddie Torres, who works full-time at Pizza Supreme Being, recently debuted a pizza featuring achiote marinated pork sausage and mojo verde as part of his own pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacocina_de_carmen/\">La Cocina de Carmen\u003c/a> — his “vision of a California cuisine restaurant with Puerto Rican influence.” The restaurant has also hosted \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/congeecult/\">Congee Cult\u003c/a>, a two-person pop-up serving new takes on Chinese rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13919707,arts_13915581,news_11815327']\u003c/span>Part of this community-driven mindset is a direct product of the music scenes Roberts grew up with. Now, with limited free time as a business owner and new parent, Roberts stays connected to those scenes by offering a good meal to visiting hardcore acts like Candy, Extinguish, Big Boy and the Los Angeles powerviolence band Zulu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I try my best to look at tour dates of bands that I really enjoy, or even ones I haven’t listened to that much, and just say ‘Pull up and I’ll feed you,’” Robert explains. “I know that they’re hungry, on the road, eating fast food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes Roberts lets these touring bands, like San Jose’s Sunami, set up a little merch pop-up — and, like any proper skate shop or hardcore band, the restaurant offers its own line of cheeky merch as well. One of my personal favorites is a T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn character inspired by Youth of Today lead singer Ray Cappo leaping mid-air, mid-song. The restaurant sells \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBhzYzvJpm/?hl=en\">bumper stickers\u003c/a> that advocate for pepperoni cups and playfully trolls corporate ranch dressing manufacturers with the simple question, “Where the Heck is Hidden Valley?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928223\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928223\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg\" alt='Bumper stickers arranged on a white pizza box: \"Gas...Brake...Dip...Your Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Went to Pizza Supreme Being and All I Got Was This Lousy Bumper Sticker,\" \"Welcome to Sacramento, We Dip Our Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Brake for Pepperoni Cups,\" and \"Where the Heck Is Hidden Valley?\"' width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pizza brand’s merch lineup includes a selection of cheeky pepperoni- and ranch dressing-themed bumper stickers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While a small, punk-inspired pizza shop might seem like an unlikely avatar for Sacramento’s acclaimed food scene, a sense of local pride is palpable in everything that Pizza Supreme Being produces. The restaurant’s Instagram Stories often feature selfies of Roberts posing in front of the beam lit above the Golden 1 Center after every Kings win, and the chef is effusive about how much cool stuff is happening in the capital city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the best parts of skateboarding, hardcore and similar subcultures are the communities they engender, why wouldn’t that also be true for a pizza restaurant? For me, Pizza Supreme Being has been a welcome portal into a Sacramento scene I’m still slowly getting to know — one whose hard-working ethos speaks for itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I get really tired of being compared to other cities — the rising this or the next that,” Roberts says. “Just let us be us and see what we got.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">\u003ci>Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 1425 14th St., Ste. C, in Sacramento. Open Wed.–Sun., noon to 8:30 p.m. (or until sold out). Cashless — order \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://curbyourpickup.square.site/\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> or call 916-917-5559. Follow them on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzasupremebeing/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Two summers ago, when I told a fellow skater and frequent local of the Rockridge BART parking lot — a popular Oakland skate spot — that I was moving to Sacramento, he immediately recommended \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/a>. The downtown pizzeria was, in his opinion, one of the city’s best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food recommendations are an everyday occurrence, but a referral from a skater — a member of a subculture rich with niche tastes and preferences measured to the millimeter, plus a ground level relationship with cities — is something I take to heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located steps from the California State Capitol Park on the corner of 14th and O Streets, Pizza Supreme Being is what I frequently describe as a spotless, well-organized merch table at a hardcore show that just happens to sell amazing sourdough slices and pies. According to co-owner Ben Roberts, I’m not far off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I legitimately run this brand like I would a hardcore band or like a skateboard company,” Roberts explains. He approaches speciality pizza pies “as like a single for a band.” Limited, one-and-done merch drops create the type of cultural FOMO Roberts himself has fallen victim to, growing up skateboarding, playing in bands and going to underground shows. “I love seeing things out in the wild that I did happen to miss,” he explains. “It brings me back to those moments and things in my life that I was always so drawn to. I gotta make sure that I don’t lose touch with that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928215\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928215\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Roberts in a black punk rock T-shirt poses along with his pizza shop's employees, all dressed in white.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roberts (left) and his crew run the shop like it’s a skateboard brand or like they’re selling merch at a hardcore punk show. \u003ccite>(José Vadi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After years in fine dining, Roberts started Pizza Supreme Being as a pop-up around 2015 after building a transportable wood-fire oven. He spent four years serving slices at bars and wineries on weekends, building a local following serving pies with a more standard yeasted dough before transitioning to naturally leavened sourdough per the recommendation of wife and business partner, Pembe Sonmez-Roberts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to feed the [sourdough] starter twice a day,” Roberts says, explaining that this wasn’t practical in the business’s early years. Once they made the switch, however, the end result tasted “worlds better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They got keys to the restaurant in March 2019, opened by April, and celebrated their one-year anniversary by transitioning to shelter in place during the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Three years later, “I feel like this is what’s normal,” Roberts explains. Even now the restaurant only offers outdoor dining and to-go orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the original restaurant dream was fork and knives with wood-fired pies, the reality-driven plan is affordable slices and pies “with superior ingredients.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I put all of our focus on our dough and our cheese blend,” Roberts says, detailing the organic tomatoes and never-bromated U.S. milled flour he uses daily. He also makes a signature homemade ranch dressing that when purchased online includes a YouTube tutorial link from Roberts himself. But lest you think everything on the menu has artisanal ambitions, Roberts says, “I also put Spam on pizza.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Spam is a trademark of the restaurant’s take on Hawaiian pizza, along with jalapeño and pineapple. The Heatwave Pizza combines hot coppa with jalapeño and Mike’s Hot Honey. And regulars know to come early (and hungry) enough to snag a square pepperoni slice, topped to the Detroit-style corners with pepperoni cups, before they sell out — and make no mistake, Pizza Supreme Being’s whole lineup of pizza always winds up selling out. Lining up to the kiosk window to place an order feels less like an exclusive foodie experience and more akin to buying tickets to a show. Slices are served to your seats outside, where government professionals, cross-city bike crews, pre-gaming hardcore show kids, skaters, families and beyond intersect in allegiance to a supreme being of a sourdough crust perfected to the last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928222\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928222\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a pizza topped with hot coppa and jalapeños. \" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Heatwave pizza combines hot coppa, jalapeños and Mike’s Hot Honey. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s also impressive for such a small restaurant is that it hosts a whole network of local, multicultural food industry upstarts. Eddie Torres, who works full-time at Pizza Supreme Being, recently debuted a pizza featuring achiote marinated pork sausage and mojo verde as part of his own pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacocina_de_carmen/\">La Cocina de Carmen\u003c/a> — his “vision of a California cuisine restaurant with Puerto Rican influence.” The restaurant has also hosted \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/congeecult/\">Congee Cult\u003c/a>, a two-person pop-up serving new takes on Chinese rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Part of this community-driven mindset is a direct product of the music scenes Roberts grew up with. Now, with limited free time as a business owner and new parent, Roberts stays connected to those scenes by offering a good meal to visiting hardcore acts like Candy, Extinguish, Big Boy and the Los Angeles powerviolence band Zulu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I try my best to look at tour dates of bands that I really enjoy, or even ones I haven’t listened to that much, and just say ‘Pull up and I’ll feed you,’” Robert explains. “I know that they’re hungry, on the road, eating fast food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes Roberts lets these touring bands, like San Jose’s Sunami, set up a little merch pop-up — and, like any proper skate shop or hardcore band, the restaurant offers its own line of cheeky merch as well. One of my personal favorites is a T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn character inspired by Youth of Today lead singer Ray Cappo leaping mid-air, mid-song. The restaurant sells \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBhzYzvJpm/?hl=en\">bumper stickers\u003c/a> that advocate for pepperoni cups and playfully trolls corporate ranch dressing manufacturers with the simple question, “Where the Heck is Hidden Valley?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928223\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928223\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg\" alt='Bumper stickers arranged on a white pizza box: \"Gas...Brake...Dip...Your Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Went to Pizza Supreme Being and All I Got Was This Lousy Bumper Sticker,\" \"Welcome to Sacramento, We Dip Our Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Brake for Pepperoni Cups,\" and \"Where the Heck Is Hidden Valley?\"' width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pizza brand’s merch lineup includes a selection of cheeky pepperoni- and ranch dressing-themed bumper stickers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While a small, punk-inspired pizza shop might seem like an unlikely avatar for Sacramento’s acclaimed food scene, a sense of local pride is palpable in everything that Pizza Supreme Being produces. The restaurant’s Instagram Stories often feature selfies of Roberts posing in front of the beam lit above the Golden 1 Center after every Kings win, and the chef is effusive about how much cool stuff is happening in the capital city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the best parts of skateboarding, hardcore and similar subcultures are the communities they engender, why wouldn’t that also be true for a pizza restaurant? For me, Pizza Supreme Being has been a welcome portal into a Sacramento scene I’m still slowly getting to know — one whose hard-working ethos speaks for itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I get really tired of being compared to other cities — the rising this or the next that,” Roberts says. “Just let us be us and see what we got.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">\u003ci>Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 1425 14th St., Ste. C, in Sacramento. Open Wed.–Sun., noon to 8:30 p.m. (or until sold out). Cashless — order \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://curbyourpickup.square.site/\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> or call 916-917-5559. Follow them on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzasupremebeing/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>For years, I watched televised cooking competitions like \u003ci>Top Chef\u003c/i> religiously. The amateur home cook in me would nerd out over knife skills and ad hoc sous vide contraptions. The romantic in me loved seeing chefs pay heartwarming homage to treasured family recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so much of American reality television, however, over time these shows began to feel \u003ca href=\"https://screenrant.com/top-chef-most-creative-branded-challenges\">overly corporatized\u003c/a> and, at times, actively toxic — \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/09/dining/top-chef-season-20.html\">a microcosm of the restaurant industry itself\u003c/a>. They didn’t seem to understand non-European cuisines at all. One favorite chef contestant was \u003ca href=\"https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/paul-qui-problem-redemption-narratives/\">outed as an alleged domestic abuser\u003c/a>. At least two others were \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonian.com/2018/11/26/the-inside-story-of-mike-isabellas-fallen-empire/\">accused of\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.gawker.com/culture/whatever-happened-to-gabe-erales-the-sex-pest-who-won-top-chef-season-18\">sexual harassment\u003c/a>.\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904835,arts_13927103']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tuned out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new web series led by young immigrants is giving me reason to tune back in. Produced not by one of the big cable networks or streaming services, \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/nobordersjustflavors/\">\u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/i>\u003c/a> is instead the creation of the nonprofit advocacy group \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/\">United We Dream\u003c/a>, which touts itself as the largest immigrant youth network in the United States. The organization is mostly known for its work pushing for a pathway for citizenship for young undocumented folks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a cooking show? Why not? After all, the food of one’s cultural heritage is the throughline for so many immigrant experiences — a theme that comes up again and again in each of the show’s four 15-minute episodes, the first of which debuts on April 20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbFu2w8EeRc\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is only a “competition” in the most nominal sense, in that each episode features two contestants — immigrants in their 20s or late teens — who have come prepared to cook a dish that fits the chosen theme of the day (e.g. “stews” or “hand-rolled and fried”). The judges taste each dish and declare a winner, but there’s no big cash prize — or even bragging rights, really — at stake. (In an email, Catherine Lee, a United We Dream spokesperson, clarified that the contestants were fairly compensated for their participation.) Nor is there much focus on complicated cooking methods or technical prowess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is mostly a vehicle for storytelling centered on each amateur chef’s cultural identity. In the first episode, Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez, a DACA recipient from Sacramento, talks about how his mother’s carne en su jugo recipe is one of the only ways he’s able to feel connected to his family in Guadalajara, Mexico, since he’s unable to cross the border to visit. In another episode, Betsabe Perez Mertija talks movingly about the little papas rellenas stand that her grandfather used to run in Cuba before coming to the U.S. as a political asylee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg\" alt=\"A stew made with bacon, onion, beans and avocado, served with a bowl of tostadas on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Contestant Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez’s carne en su jugo is made with bacon, onions, avocado and beans. The dish is a tribute to the cook’s mother and his Guadalajaran roots. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the contestants are just so darn \u003ci>likable\u003c/i>. Even the show’s handful of goofy, lo-fi cooking competition gimmicks — like a button you press to force your opponent to stop what they’re doing to help you — wind up turning into sweet moments of cross-cultural connection instead of cutthroat contention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928092\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1424px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928092 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A headshot of a young Indonesian-Chinese immigrant with long dyed hair and an infectious smile.\" width=\"1424\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg 1424w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-800x1438.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1020x1834.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-160x288.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-768x1381.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-854x1536.jpg 854w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1139x2048.jpg 1139w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1424px) 100vw, 1424px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dru Lay participated in the show’s first episode, representing his Indonesian and Chinese cultural identities. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Dru Lay, a Chinese-Indonesian contestant in the first episode, puts it, “Being an immigrant almost automatically means we have a lot in common.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who’ve grown accustomed to every reality TV series having a handful of token Black, brown and Asian contestants who all get eliminated halfway through the season, a show like \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is a breath of fresh air. Nearly \u003ci>everyone\u003c/i> involved in the show is an immigrant or person of color — the contestants, host, director, producers and art directors. Some of the crew members are undocumented immigrants and DACA recipients themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That approach is reflected in the show’s intended audience, too: Host Morelys De Los Santos Urbano ends each episode by asking contestants if they have any words of wisdom they’d like to offer to the immigrant youth who might be watching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the main point of the show, for United We Dream, seems to be to flip the script on the typical ways that immigrants — whether they’re documented or not — tend to get portrayed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All too often, we hear immigrant stories as told by people other than immigrants themselves,” says Lee of United We Dream. “The immigration headlines are dominated by stories of struggle, suffering and survival. But there’s another side of the immigrant story that’s rarely represented in mainstream media: our joy, our courage and vision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if these four snack-sized episodes serve as proof of concept that America is ready for a more immigrant-centric approach to food television? I’ll be ready to tune in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first episode of \u003c/i>\u003cem>‘No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/em>’ \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTahl_sx9fesEeRvIbZEESALwbdlBWs0U\">\u003ci>debuts on YouTube\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on April 20, at 5 p.m. PST. A new episode will go up online every Thursday night for the next three weeks after that.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For years, I watched televised cooking competitions like \u003ci>Top Chef\u003c/i> religiously. The amateur home cook in me would nerd out over knife skills and ad hoc sous vide contraptions. The romantic in me loved seeing chefs pay heartwarming homage to treasured family recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so much of American reality television, however, over time these shows began to feel \u003ca href=\"https://screenrant.com/top-chef-most-creative-branded-challenges\">overly corporatized\u003c/a> and, at times, actively toxic — \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/09/dining/top-chef-season-20.html\">a microcosm of the restaurant industry itself\u003c/a>. They didn’t seem to understand non-European cuisines at all. One favorite chef contestant was \u003ca href=\"https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/paul-qui-problem-redemption-narratives/\">outed as an alleged domestic abuser\u003c/a>. At least two others were \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonian.com/2018/11/26/the-inside-story-of-mike-isabellas-fallen-empire/\">accused of\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.gawker.com/culture/whatever-happened-to-gabe-erales-the-sex-pest-who-won-top-chef-season-18\">sexual harassment\u003c/a>.\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tuned out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new web series led by young immigrants is giving me reason to tune back in. Produced not by one of the big cable networks or streaming services, \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/nobordersjustflavors/\">\u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/i>\u003c/a> is instead the creation of the nonprofit advocacy group \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/\">United We Dream\u003c/a>, which touts itself as the largest immigrant youth network in the United States. The organization is mostly known for its work pushing for a pathway for citizenship for young undocumented folks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a cooking show? Why not? After all, the food of one’s cultural heritage is the throughline for so many immigrant experiences — a theme that comes up again and again in each of the show’s four 15-minute episodes, the first of which debuts on April 20.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/CbFu2w8EeRc'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/CbFu2w8EeRc'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is only a “competition” in the most nominal sense, in that each episode features two contestants — immigrants in their 20s or late teens — who have come prepared to cook a dish that fits the chosen theme of the day (e.g. “stews” or “hand-rolled and fried”). The judges taste each dish and declare a winner, but there’s no big cash prize — or even bragging rights, really — at stake. (In an email, Catherine Lee, a United We Dream spokesperson, clarified that the contestants were fairly compensated for their participation.) Nor is there much focus on complicated cooking methods or technical prowess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is mostly a vehicle for storytelling centered on each amateur chef’s cultural identity. In the first episode, Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez, a DACA recipient from Sacramento, talks about how his mother’s carne en su jugo recipe is one of the only ways he’s able to feel connected to his family in Guadalajara, Mexico, since he’s unable to cross the border to visit. In another episode, Betsabe Perez Mertija talks movingly about the little papas rellenas stand that her grandfather used to run in Cuba before coming to the U.S. as a political asylee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg\" alt=\"A stew made with bacon, onion, beans and avocado, served with a bowl of tostadas on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Contestant Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez’s carne en su jugo is made with bacon, onions, avocado and beans. The dish is a tribute to the cook’s mother and his Guadalajaran roots. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the contestants are just so darn \u003ci>likable\u003c/i>. Even the show’s handful of goofy, lo-fi cooking competition gimmicks — like a button you press to force your opponent to stop what they’re doing to help you — wind up turning into sweet moments of cross-cultural connection instead of cutthroat contention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928092\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1424px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928092 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A headshot of a young Indonesian-Chinese immigrant with long dyed hair and an infectious smile.\" width=\"1424\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg 1424w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-800x1438.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1020x1834.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-160x288.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-768x1381.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-854x1536.jpg 854w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1139x2048.jpg 1139w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1424px) 100vw, 1424px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dru Lay participated in the show’s first episode, representing his Indonesian and Chinese cultural identities. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Dru Lay, a Chinese-Indonesian contestant in the first episode, puts it, “Being an immigrant almost automatically means we have a lot in common.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who’ve grown accustomed to every reality TV series having a handful of token Black, brown and Asian contestants who all get eliminated halfway through the season, a show like \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is a breath of fresh air. Nearly \u003ci>everyone\u003c/i> involved in the show is an immigrant or person of color — the contestants, host, director, producers and art directors. Some of the crew members are undocumented immigrants and DACA recipients themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That approach is reflected in the show’s intended audience, too: Host Morelys De Los Santos Urbano ends each episode by asking contestants if they have any words of wisdom they’d like to offer to the immigrant youth who might be watching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the main point of the show, for United We Dream, seems to be to flip the script on the typical ways that immigrants — whether they’re documented or not — tend to get portrayed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All too often, we hear immigrant stories as told by people other than immigrants themselves,” says Lee of United We Dream. “The immigration headlines are dominated by stories of struggle, suffering and survival. But there’s another side of the immigrant story that’s rarely represented in mainstream media: our joy, our courage and vision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if these four snack-sized episodes serve as proof of concept that America is ready for a more immigrant-centric approach to food television? I’ll be ready to tune in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first episode of \u003c/i>\u003cem>‘No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/em>’ \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTahl_sx9fesEeRvIbZEESALwbdlBWs0U\">\u003ci>debuts on YouTube\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on April 20, at 5 p.m. PST. A new episode will go up online every Thursday night for the next three weeks after that.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "This Asian American Farmer Wants to Create a Home for Rare Heirloom Asian Vegetables",
"headTitle": "This Asian American Farmer Wants to Create a Home for Rare Heirloom Asian Vegetables | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>The Bay Area’s much-vaunted food scene depends mightily on California farmers — mainly for fresh ingredients, but also for inspiration. In fact, one farmer has inspired our local chefs so deeply that they are now rallying to return the favor: They want to give Kristyn Leach a home — and they want your help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An agricultural nomad for nearly all her adult life, Leach has spent two decades tending land up and down the West Coast, from Olympia, Washington to eastern Alameda County. Eventually, she settled into a pair of primary commitments: supplying a delightful range of chili peppers, perilla, zucchini, roselle and radishes for chef Dennis Lee’s Namu restaurant group, and coordinating \u003ca href=\"https://www.secondgenerationseeds.com/\">Second Generation Seeds\u003c/a>, a growers’ collaborative for preserving heirloom crops of the Asian diaspora.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nonprofit Community Alliance with Family Farmers named Leach 2021’s Ecological Farmer of the Year. People who know her well, however, don’t need awards to affirm Leach’s prominence as a bold visionary and botanical champion — and a foremost voice in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897752/radical-family-farms-asian-produce-taiwanese-identity-sonoma\">burgeoning movement of Asian American–run farms\u003c/a> that are shining a spotlight on previously hard-to-find Asian heritage vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg\" alt=\"Packets of Asian vegetable seeds decorated with illustrations of each corresponding vegetable: lady choi, kamo, suyo long, gaeguri chamoe, roselle and cha jogi.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1392\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-800x580.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1020x740.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-160x116.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-768x557.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1536x1114.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Second Generation Seeds preserves, adapts and breeds heirloom plants of the Asian diaspora, providing seeds for use by farmers and home gardeners. \u003ccite>(Alec MacDonald)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Steve Joo of Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/joodooboo/?hl=en\">Joodooboo\u003c/a>, a long-time friend of Leach, accompanied her on a seed-sourcing trip to South Korea in 2014 and has witnessed her conscientious approach to farming over the years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The thoughtfulness and awareness, curiosity and intelligence that she engages with all of her plants, and how that is evident in the produce that she grows, is a constant reminder to me,” says Joo, who credits her with elevating “the level of mindfulness I have when engaging with the cooking process.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach’s reputation is firmly rooted, but her work is not: She has always labored on temporary tenant plots, perpetually facing uncertainty about which patch of dirt she might find herself on next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then last year, a Sonoma farmer turned her on to a more permanent option. In Sebastopol, an eight-acre parcel had become available, and the buyer would have to put the property to agricultural use under the legal mandate of an easement. Leach cobbled together a whopping $1.5 million in integrated capital and, after navigating assorted procedural tangles, prepared for a monumental personal and professional transition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, that transition has now been put on hold. One of Leach’s funders recently decided to pull out, leaving her with a $200,000 hole to fill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This snag threatens to derail a set of ambitious and multifaceted plans that build on the cutting-edge work Leach has performed thus far. Second Generation Seeds stands poised for a robust expansion on the new site, where the breeding of scarce or neglected varietals — such as frog melons or native Korean soybeans — could establish a living seed bank while anchoring a nationwide effort to test seed resilience. Leach has hopes of welcoming stewards-in-residence to the property, providing these guests with an intensive year of training in an immersive version of the remote Seed Fellowships she currently holds online for growers across the country. She also aims to ramp up production of herbs and vegetables, relying on a technique called natural farming that surpasses the environmental standards of organic certification. As she has in the past, she intends to regularly donate harvests to places like the Korean American Coalition to End Domestic Abuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach calls the endeavor the Gohyang Seed Campus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg\" alt=\"A line of traditional Korean drummers perform a ceremony in an open field.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach (center) regularly welcomes community members onto her farm plots to celebrate Chuseok, a Korean harvest festival. \u003ccite>(Dan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We called it ‘Gohyang’ because that’s the Korean word for home and hometown,” says Leach, who was born in Daegu, South Korea, before joining an adoptive family on Long Island when she was an infant. She explains that with “an emo subtext,” the name “captures a sense of longing and a sense of return.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the tenant plots she’s farmed, Leach has made a habit out of hosting the fall festival of Chuseok, when Koreans come back to their gohyang for family memorials and harvest feasts. Marveling at how community members have so enthusiastically embraced her gatherings as a proxy for ancestral pilgrimage, she says, “That’s probably one of the more meaningful accomplishments of my life: to be able to have provided a space that people feel that connected to.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If granted the opportunity to launch the Gohyang Seed Campus, Leach wants to continue providing such space for Chuseok and other community events. The welcome mat would always be out at her home — in a literal sense, as the property is where she would reside with her wife and two-year-old daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928040\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928040\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer Kristyn Leach holds her two-year-old daughter against a tree-lined backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach and her daughter share a tender moment. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13897752,arts_13925835,arts_13920714']\u003c/span>They may get the chance to move in after all, thanks to Leach’s culinary buddies, who have launched \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus\">an online fundraiser to plug that $200,000 hole\u003c/a>. The campaign has until May 12 to reach its target. To incentivize large contributions, a group of distinguished chefs and industry professionals has put forth a sizable list of donor perks, such as an edible garden consultation from Chez Panisse’s Spencer Huey, a cooking class with Henry Hsu of Oakland-based pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> and a private dinner prepared by renowned restaurateurs Russell Moore (Camino) and Kelsie Kerr (Standard Fare).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moore will also whip up appetizers for \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">a fundraising party on Sunday, April 23, at Sister in Oakland\u003c/a>. For a $200 donation, anyone can attend, although space is limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joodooboo’s Joo is pitching in both a perk — tofu and banchan subscriptions from his shop — as well as additional appetizers for the party at Sister. Asked why people should join him in backing the cause, he says, “Kristyn Leach is someone who represents the best of who we are, and for someone like that, and a project that she’s dedicating her life to, she deserves some support.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The kick-off fundraising party for Kristyn Leach’s Gohyang Seed Campus takes place on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">\u003ci>Sunday, April 23\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, from 5–7 p.m. at Sister (3308 Grand Ave.) in Oakland. The deadline for the overall \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus?ref=ab_0CLeH8_ab_0c2TtlNVxis0c2TtlNVxis\">\u003ci>fundraising campaign\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is May 12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Bay Area’s much-vaunted food scene depends mightily on California farmers — mainly for fresh ingredients, but also for inspiration. In fact, one farmer has inspired our local chefs so deeply that they are now rallying to return the favor: They want to give Kristyn Leach a home — and they want your help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An agricultural nomad for nearly all her adult life, Leach has spent two decades tending land up and down the West Coast, from Olympia, Washington to eastern Alameda County. Eventually, she settled into a pair of primary commitments: supplying a delightful range of chili peppers, perilla, zucchini, roselle and radishes for chef Dennis Lee’s Namu restaurant group, and coordinating \u003ca href=\"https://www.secondgenerationseeds.com/\">Second Generation Seeds\u003c/a>, a growers’ collaborative for preserving heirloom crops of the Asian diaspora.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nonprofit Community Alliance with Family Farmers named Leach 2021’s Ecological Farmer of the Year. People who know her well, however, don’t need awards to affirm Leach’s prominence as a bold visionary and botanical champion — and a foremost voice in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897752/radical-family-farms-asian-produce-taiwanese-identity-sonoma\">burgeoning movement of Asian American–run farms\u003c/a> that are shining a spotlight on previously hard-to-find Asian heritage vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg\" alt=\"Packets of Asian vegetable seeds decorated with illustrations of each corresponding vegetable: lady choi, kamo, suyo long, gaeguri chamoe, roselle and cha jogi.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1392\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-800x580.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1020x740.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-160x116.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-768x557.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1536x1114.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Second Generation Seeds preserves, adapts and breeds heirloom plants of the Asian diaspora, providing seeds for use by farmers and home gardeners. \u003ccite>(Alec MacDonald)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Steve Joo of Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/joodooboo/?hl=en\">Joodooboo\u003c/a>, a long-time friend of Leach, accompanied her on a seed-sourcing trip to South Korea in 2014 and has witnessed her conscientious approach to farming over the years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The thoughtfulness and awareness, curiosity and intelligence that she engages with all of her plants, and how that is evident in the produce that she grows, is a constant reminder to me,” says Joo, who credits her with elevating “the level of mindfulness I have when engaging with the cooking process.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach’s reputation is firmly rooted, but her work is not: She has always labored on temporary tenant plots, perpetually facing uncertainty about which patch of dirt she might find herself on next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then last year, a Sonoma farmer turned her on to a more permanent option. In Sebastopol, an eight-acre parcel had become available, and the buyer would have to put the property to agricultural use under the legal mandate of an easement. Leach cobbled together a whopping $1.5 million in integrated capital and, after navigating assorted procedural tangles, prepared for a monumental personal and professional transition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, that transition has now been put on hold. One of Leach’s funders recently decided to pull out, leaving her with a $200,000 hole to fill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This snag threatens to derail a set of ambitious and multifaceted plans that build on the cutting-edge work Leach has performed thus far. Second Generation Seeds stands poised for a robust expansion on the new site, where the breeding of scarce or neglected varietals — such as frog melons or native Korean soybeans — could establish a living seed bank while anchoring a nationwide effort to test seed resilience. Leach has hopes of welcoming stewards-in-residence to the property, providing these guests with an intensive year of training in an immersive version of the remote Seed Fellowships she currently holds online for growers across the country. She also aims to ramp up production of herbs and vegetables, relying on a technique called natural farming that surpasses the environmental standards of organic certification. As she has in the past, she intends to regularly donate harvests to places like the Korean American Coalition to End Domestic Abuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach calls the endeavor the Gohyang Seed Campus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg\" alt=\"A line of traditional Korean drummers perform a ceremony in an open field.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach (center) regularly welcomes community members onto her farm plots to celebrate Chuseok, a Korean harvest festival. \u003ccite>(Dan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We called it ‘Gohyang’ because that’s the Korean word for home and hometown,” says Leach, who was born in Daegu, South Korea, before joining an adoptive family on Long Island when she was an infant. She explains that with “an emo subtext,” the name “captures a sense of longing and a sense of return.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the tenant plots she’s farmed, Leach has made a habit out of hosting the fall festival of Chuseok, when Koreans come back to their gohyang for family memorials and harvest feasts. Marveling at how community members have so enthusiastically embraced her gatherings as a proxy for ancestral pilgrimage, she says, “That’s probably one of the more meaningful accomplishments of my life: to be able to have provided a space that people feel that connected to.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If granted the opportunity to launch the Gohyang Seed Campus, Leach wants to continue providing such space for Chuseok and other community events. The welcome mat would always be out at her home — in a literal sense, as the property is where she would reside with her wife and two-year-old daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928040\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928040\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer Kristyn Leach holds her two-year-old daughter against a tree-lined backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach and her daughter share a tender moment. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>They may get the chance to move in after all, thanks to Leach’s culinary buddies, who have launched \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus\">an online fundraiser to plug that $200,000 hole\u003c/a>. The campaign has until May 12 to reach its target. To incentivize large contributions, a group of distinguished chefs and industry professionals has put forth a sizable list of donor perks, such as an edible garden consultation from Chez Panisse’s Spencer Huey, a cooking class with Henry Hsu of Oakland-based pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> and a private dinner prepared by renowned restaurateurs Russell Moore (Camino) and Kelsie Kerr (Standard Fare).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moore will also whip up appetizers for \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">a fundraising party on Sunday, April 23, at Sister in Oakland\u003c/a>. For a $200 donation, anyone can attend, although space is limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joodooboo’s Joo is pitching in both a perk — tofu and banchan subscriptions from his shop — as well as additional appetizers for the party at Sister. Asked why people should join him in backing the cause, he says, “Kristyn Leach is someone who represents the best of who we are, and for someone like that, and a project that she’s dedicating her life to, she deserves some support.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The kick-off fundraising party for Kristyn Leach’s Gohyang Seed Campus takes place on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">\u003ci>Sunday, April 23\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, from 5–7 p.m. at Sister (3308 Grand Ave.) in Oakland. The deadline for the overall \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus?ref=ab_0CLeH8_ab_0c2TtlNVxis0c2TtlNVxis\">\u003ci>fundraising campaign\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is May 12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "davey-jones-deli-sandwiches-sausalito-hella-hungry",
"title": "Davey Jones Deli is Sausalito’s Hidden Sandwich Paradise",
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"headTitle": "Davey Jones Deli is Sausalito’s Hidden Sandwich Paradise | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a certain feeling of escape whenever I cross the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge into the more affluent areas of the North Bay, where ocean views extend peacefully from the base of Mount Tamalpais towards the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco’s glittered skyline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet behind every Instagram-worthy glamour shot in these high-end destinations, there’s also a blue-collar grit: sailors, dock workers, immigrants, farm laborers, wanderers and the general working class who’ve taken refuge away from the larger nearby cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davey Jones Deli is an example of that — an old-school sandwich shop inside a Sausalito liquor store on the literal edge of land, founded by a man who lives on a boat. It’s where the “waterfront people” go to eat, stock up on fishing supplies and pick up their favorite alcohols. It’s not exactly where you’d expect to find some of the North Bay’s best sandos. But it’s where X marks the spot, and for much of the Bay Area, this quirky nautical eatery is only a short drive (or ferry ride) away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The veteran sandwich maker and owner, David “Davey Jones” Johnson, is more seaman than landwalker, and perhaps the friendliest pirate soul you’ll ever meet. (He might even draw you a map of the area and label it a “treasure map,” divulging his favorite locations for local walks with ocean views).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a part of the waterfront, the working waterfront,” he says. “People live on boats and work with their hands. And then there’s the wealth of the hills. But this is part of the waterfront here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the shop you can explore crab traps, octopus hooks, snatch swivels, rope and an array of other fishermen’s equipment while waiting to load up on a barbecue brisket sandwich or veggie delight stuffed between sourdough. Afterward, it’s worth wandering around the surrounding area to enjoy the nearby vistas for an ideal lunch. Trust me, even if the treasure isn’t the kind that pirates bury, those views are worth the trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927895\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927895\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg\" alt=\"A cook prepares a sandwich in a deli kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1020x638.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1536x960.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Johnson, the owner of Davey Jones Deli, prepares a sandwich. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here’s the skinny on how this sailor built a paradise for sandwich lovers in an unlikely hideout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: So Davey Jones isn’t your name, huh? Where did that come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>David Johnson:\u003c/b> Growing up I was David. Dave sounded too much like a farmer from Iowa, where I grew up. After college, I spent four years in South Africa, working. My partner was a fisherman, I was a sailor. We were running a bar in a jungle. He asked me if I’d met Davey Jones. I just said yeah, that I did. So everyone started calling me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You ran a bar in a jungle?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, it was wild. My buddy was building a community and he wanted to create something for backpackers. I just wanted to hang around. We helped out by taking the tourist money and giving it back to the community. I imported my food and sold a lot of local fish. We had a little fish market with peanuts and fruits and things. Off the grid. Heated our own water. We had a hundred people using toilets and showers. We’d compost everything and work with the locals and became self-sustainable. We talk about organic food in the U.S.? That was no comparison. That experience taught me about DIY, build it yourself. Use what you got. The deli is like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927899\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927899 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"an employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey before the lunch hour rush arrives. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve been operating Davey Jones Deli for 13 years now — how did that happen? How did you end up in Sausalito? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I kept going back to boating, tried to live in New Orleans, Milwaukee, always on a boat in places that had water. The Great Lakes. All up and down the East Coast. Prince Edward Islands. Boston, Philly, Charleston. The great East Coast cities by the sea. At one point, in 2009, I was working on a yacht in Yoruba. I was on Facebook and got connected to my best friend from high school, who’s now my wife. She was living on a houseboat in Sausalito. I’d never considered it and had never been [to San Francisco]. I said, why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, I had no idea where I was. I didn’t know Sausalito was a rich city. I just knew there were farms, and I used that to my advantage. I found a reasonable houseboat situation, and my plan was to just sell soup to my neighbors, which I did for a while. [At the time] I would just be breezing through the bait shop to buy firewood, and the owner approached me to run his deli one day. I never noticed it before, to be honest; the lights were always off. It was covered in grease, and I just laughed it off and didn’t take it seriously. But after thinking about it, I went back. I decided to run it my own way, with poetic license. I was a chef at the time. My personal clients were not happy since they thought it was gross. They thought I’d spend a couple of years there and attract investors and just move on, but it has been so comfortable and I’ve been here ever since. I walk to work and it’s a super diverse community — one of the most racially diverse spots in southern Marin. I like that East Coast bodega vibe. It’s loud, fun, unlikely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your passion for food making begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started while working on educational tall ships. There’s one in Sausalito called the Matthew Turner. We take students and scientists out. I actually have a degree in Environmental Science, and I wanted to be a captain at one point. But this one time, we had a terrible cook, and it just destroyed our bodies (laughs). I took over and served some healthier organic foods and inadvertently became a sea cook. It’s tricky with our budget — there isn’t much money in nonprofit, educational tall ships. A lot of wheeling and dealing in port towns. You get creative — meeting fishermen, getting clammers and steamers by trades, finding unlikely food places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927898\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13927898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg\" alt='a handdrawn \"treasure map\" with local sites to visit' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson’s hand-drawn ‘treasure map.’ \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you have any cooking experience before that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I cooked my way through college. I didn’t just work anywhere. I was interested in particular scenes and worked my way through some cool restaurants. I picked up knife skills, things like that. I had \u003ci>The Joy of Cooking\u003c/i> memorized by the time I was on the sea. I started working at a vegetarian restaurant back then near the university. Imagine quinoa in Iowa in ‘98. Seitan burritos. Things like that. It’s not like today. We were next to a university, and here I am in the courtyard serving shiitake corn soup and people are asking me about sodium. We had some really challenging customers. But you take that to sea. You can’t have everything you want. And food should make you feel well emotionally, spiritually, economically, physically — you shouldn’t live on a militant diet forever. Chicken dumplings will get you right, know what I mean?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927942\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A middle-aged woman in glasses stands behind sa deli counter, her blonde hair tied in a bun.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A deli employee is ready take down a sandwich order. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We’re here to nourish people and give. It’s all about giving. Whoever is trying to prove themselves with food, I’m not interested. My 75-year-old neighbor will roast the hell out of a chicken, that’s what I’m into. The best food is at home, hands down. I only go to restaurants when I’m lazy or for social reasons, maybe the food makes me feel good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> — that’s a restaurant here in Sausalito — it makes me feel amazing. It’s sustainable with crazy views, but don’t go in the middle of a rush. Hit that up in the side hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have creatively named sandwiches on \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/menu\">\u003cb>your menu\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> with a notable array of options — from the housemade hummus in the “Vulcan Wrap” to the veggielicious “Kerouwhack” or the BBQ brisket and bacon in the “Mr. L.” Where do these original names and ideas come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hate sandwiches named after famous people like athletes (laughs). These are named after staff workers and former employees. Each one reminds me of them. Mr. L was a staff member here, who was re-entering society. He would just make sandwiches. Kerouwahck came from a fun guy, Pinky — he wanted to become a vegetarian, so he made that [sandwich] as a savory and sweet affair. These workers pretty much invented the sandwiches themselves using my kits. Some of them were jokes. A guy came in the door once and stared at all the ingredients on the menu for about 10 minutes, then ordered his sandwich. We named it after him, and will name them [after customers] if they’re fucking clever. [That particular customer] just looked like someone’s uncle, so that’s what we named it “Uncle’s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only have two rules here. Rule #1: no fire, no fryer. Rule #2: no additives or preservatives. That’s why we’re not in the salami game. I like it, but it’s not very healthy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927900\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg\" alt=\"David Johnson prepares a vegan wrap in his deli's kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson prepares a vegan ‘Vulcan Wrap,’ the most popular item on the menu. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco is famous for its sourdough loaves. Where does Davey Jones get bread from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our local bakery is \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/san-rafael-bakery-celebrates-100-years-of-making-sourdough/\">Bordenave [a 105-year-old bakery in San Rafael]\u003c/a>. Their bread is local; they’re our neighbors. Sourdough rolls are hard, and if we’re putting 16 ingredients in, it just squishes out. We rip most of the bread out of the middle to add more spinach, sprouts, cucumbers, nutrients. We can stuff delicious veggies over the bread. [Bread is] just a wrapper. The business of sandwiches is an expression of self. Dr. Jones is a bit different — we don’t do sandwiches at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s Dr. Jones?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s private catering I do on beaches, barbecues on the waterfront or on boats, picnics on Angel Island, that sort of stuff. I do it all around Sonoma, Napa — outdoor cooking. The deli can only pay my bills, and I like to travel internationally, so I like to cater. We have a website called \u003ca href=\"https://www.portandprovisions.com/\">Port and Provisions\u003c/a> that just highlights our catering cohort, nothing serious. We don’t answer emails or phones. I just like being an outdoor chef. It’s not a company, just me and some chef friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"David Johnson\"]“One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, ‘Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.’ When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen.”[/pullquote]\u003cb>What’s the secret for making a perfect Bay Area sandwich?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, here’s a secret: Sandwiches are not really a passion of mine. I make them a lot when I travel, especially at my mom’s house. It’s lazy food. There are sandwich aficionados on Instagram, and I love that they love it that much. But I don’t go out of my way for a sandwich. When I was trying to figure out what the deli was, I was doing smoothies, porridge, quiche, lasagnas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, “Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.” When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen. At that point, I started to wonder about the world’s best sandwiches: the Reuben, Cuban, so on. I started out making the famous ones. I got busier and had too many ingredients so had to pare it down. We have no fire, no frying, no additives here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927897 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg\" alt=\"an array of fishermen's supplies available inside a liquor store in Sausalito\" width=\"720\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg 720w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An array of fishermen’s supplies are available inside New Bait Shop Market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13926749,arts_13909648,arts_13899700']\u003c/span>It’s not really about the sandwiches; I’m just a pretty good cook, and I’m nice to my people, and that is more magic than anything. I thought I might work in environmental remediation or environmental justice at one point but got no responses to any of the several hundred applications I sent out. It was like a “whoops” when I became a chef. It’s been comfy though — no commute, space for my catering. [The food industry] can be very brutal, so I have to also take care of myself. Watching those rotator cuffs (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immigrants come here and build a restaurant or work in kitchens, and we [Americans] tell our kids that it’s not honorable to sweep or mop — that being in food isn’t honorable. But my uncle once told me that the only honorable work on this planet is food — farming — and it’s true. They’re the only real producers. Everyone else is just taking and being a user. I don’t think there’s any honor in the craft of charging subscription fees (laughs). I’d just like people to honor chefs and the kitchen rather than hoping kids can do something better. Food is our first basic need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-12127869 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> is located inside New Bait Shop Market (1 Gate 6 Rd., Sausalito). The deli is open daily from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (or until sold out). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a certain feeling of escape whenever I cross the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge into the more affluent areas of the North Bay, where ocean views extend peacefully from the base of Mount Tamalpais towards the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco’s glittered skyline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet behind every Instagram-worthy glamour shot in these high-end destinations, there’s also a blue-collar grit: sailors, dock workers, immigrants, farm laborers, wanderers and the general working class who’ve taken refuge away from the larger nearby cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davey Jones Deli is an example of that — an old-school sandwich shop inside a Sausalito liquor store on the literal edge of land, founded by a man who lives on a boat. It’s where the “waterfront people” go to eat, stock up on fishing supplies and pick up their favorite alcohols. It’s not exactly where you’d expect to find some of the North Bay’s best sandos. But it’s where X marks the spot, and for much of the Bay Area, this quirky nautical eatery is only a short drive (or ferry ride) away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The veteran sandwich maker and owner, David “Davey Jones” Johnson, is more seaman than landwalker, and perhaps the friendliest pirate soul you’ll ever meet. (He might even draw you a map of the area and label it a “treasure map,” divulging his favorite locations for local walks with ocean views).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a part of the waterfront, the working waterfront,” he says. “People live on boats and work with their hands. And then there’s the wealth of the hills. But this is part of the waterfront here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the shop you can explore crab traps, octopus hooks, snatch swivels, rope and an array of other fishermen’s equipment while waiting to load up on a barbecue brisket sandwich or veggie delight stuffed between sourdough. Afterward, it’s worth wandering around the surrounding area to enjoy the nearby vistas for an ideal lunch. Trust me, even if the treasure isn’t the kind that pirates bury, those views are worth the trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927895\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927895\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg\" alt=\"A cook prepares a sandwich in a deli kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1020x638.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1536x960.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Johnson, the owner of Davey Jones Deli, prepares a sandwich. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here’s the skinny on how this sailor built a paradise for sandwich lovers in an unlikely hideout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: So Davey Jones isn’t your name, huh? Where did that come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>David Johnson:\u003c/b> Growing up I was David. Dave sounded too much like a farmer from Iowa, where I grew up. After college, I spent four years in South Africa, working. My partner was a fisherman, I was a sailor. We were running a bar in a jungle. He asked me if I’d met Davey Jones. I just said yeah, that I did. So everyone started calling me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You ran a bar in a jungle?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, it was wild. My buddy was building a community and he wanted to create something for backpackers. I just wanted to hang around. We helped out by taking the tourist money and giving it back to the community. I imported my food and sold a lot of local fish. We had a little fish market with peanuts and fruits and things. Off the grid. Heated our own water. We had a hundred people using toilets and showers. We’d compost everything and work with the locals and became self-sustainable. We talk about organic food in the U.S.? That was no comparison. That experience taught me about DIY, build it yourself. Use what you got. The deli is like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927899\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927899 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"an employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey before the lunch hour rush arrives. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve been operating Davey Jones Deli for 13 years now — how did that happen? How did you end up in Sausalito? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I kept going back to boating, tried to live in New Orleans, Milwaukee, always on a boat in places that had water. The Great Lakes. All up and down the East Coast. Prince Edward Islands. Boston, Philly, Charleston. The great East Coast cities by the sea. At one point, in 2009, I was working on a yacht in Yoruba. I was on Facebook and got connected to my best friend from high school, who’s now my wife. She was living on a houseboat in Sausalito. I’d never considered it and had never been [to San Francisco]. I said, why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, I had no idea where I was. I didn’t know Sausalito was a rich city. I just knew there were farms, and I used that to my advantage. I found a reasonable houseboat situation, and my plan was to just sell soup to my neighbors, which I did for a while. [At the time] I would just be breezing through the bait shop to buy firewood, and the owner approached me to run his deli one day. I never noticed it before, to be honest; the lights were always off. It was covered in grease, and I just laughed it off and didn’t take it seriously. But after thinking about it, I went back. I decided to run it my own way, with poetic license. I was a chef at the time. My personal clients were not happy since they thought it was gross. They thought I’d spend a couple of years there and attract investors and just move on, but it has been so comfortable and I’ve been here ever since. I walk to work and it’s a super diverse community — one of the most racially diverse spots in southern Marin. I like that East Coast bodega vibe. It’s loud, fun, unlikely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your passion for food making begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started while working on educational tall ships. There’s one in Sausalito called the Matthew Turner. We take students and scientists out. I actually have a degree in Environmental Science, and I wanted to be a captain at one point. But this one time, we had a terrible cook, and it just destroyed our bodies (laughs). I took over and served some healthier organic foods and inadvertently became a sea cook. It’s tricky with our budget — there isn’t much money in nonprofit, educational tall ships. A lot of wheeling and dealing in port towns. You get creative — meeting fishermen, getting clammers and steamers by trades, finding unlikely food places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927898\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13927898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg\" alt='a handdrawn \"treasure map\" with local sites to visit' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson’s hand-drawn ‘treasure map.’ \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you have any cooking experience before that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I cooked my way through college. I didn’t just work anywhere. I was interested in particular scenes and worked my way through some cool restaurants. I picked up knife skills, things like that. I had \u003ci>The Joy of Cooking\u003c/i> memorized by the time I was on the sea. I started working at a vegetarian restaurant back then near the university. Imagine quinoa in Iowa in ‘98. Seitan burritos. Things like that. It’s not like today. We were next to a university, and here I am in the courtyard serving shiitake corn soup and people are asking me about sodium. We had some really challenging customers. But you take that to sea. You can’t have everything you want. And food should make you feel well emotionally, spiritually, economically, physically — you shouldn’t live on a militant diet forever. Chicken dumplings will get you right, know what I mean?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927942\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A middle-aged woman in glasses stands behind sa deli counter, her blonde hair tied in a bun.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A deli employee is ready take down a sandwich order. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We’re here to nourish people and give. It’s all about giving. Whoever is trying to prove themselves with food, I’m not interested. My 75-year-old neighbor will roast the hell out of a chicken, that’s what I’m into. The best food is at home, hands down. I only go to restaurants when I’m lazy or for social reasons, maybe the food makes me feel good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> — that’s a restaurant here in Sausalito — it makes me feel amazing. It’s sustainable with crazy views, but don’t go in the middle of a rush. Hit that up in the side hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have creatively named sandwiches on \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/menu\">\u003cb>your menu\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> with a notable array of options — from the housemade hummus in the “Vulcan Wrap” to the veggielicious “Kerouwhack” or the BBQ brisket and bacon in the “Mr. L.” Where do these original names and ideas come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hate sandwiches named after famous people like athletes (laughs). These are named after staff workers and former employees. Each one reminds me of them. Mr. L was a staff member here, who was re-entering society. He would just make sandwiches. Kerouwahck came from a fun guy, Pinky — he wanted to become a vegetarian, so he made that [sandwich] as a savory and sweet affair. These workers pretty much invented the sandwiches themselves using my kits. Some of them were jokes. A guy came in the door once and stared at all the ingredients on the menu for about 10 minutes, then ordered his sandwich. We named it after him, and will name them [after customers] if they’re fucking clever. [That particular customer] just looked like someone’s uncle, so that’s what we named it “Uncle’s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only have two rules here. Rule #1: no fire, no fryer. Rule #2: no additives or preservatives. That’s why we’re not in the salami game. I like it, but it’s not very healthy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927900\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg\" alt=\"David Johnson prepares a vegan wrap in his deli's kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson prepares a vegan ‘Vulcan Wrap,’ the most popular item on the menu. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco is famous for its sourdough loaves. Where does Davey Jones get bread from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our local bakery is \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/san-rafael-bakery-celebrates-100-years-of-making-sourdough/\">Bordenave [a 105-year-old bakery in San Rafael]\u003c/a>. Their bread is local; they’re our neighbors. Sourdough rolls are hard, and if we’re putting 16 ingredients in, it just squishes out. We rip most of the bread out of the middle to add more spinach, sprouts, cucumbers, nutrients. We can stuff delicious veggies over the bread. [Bread is] just a wrapper. The business of sandwiches is an expression of self. Dr. Jones is a bit different — we don’t do sandwiches at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s Dr. Jones?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s private catering I do on beaches, barbecues on the waterfront or on boats, picnics on Angel Island, that sort of stuff. I do it all around Sonoma, Napa — outdoor cooking. The deli can only pay my bills, and I like to travel internationally, so I like to cater. We have a website called \u003ca href=\"https://www.portandprovisions.com/\">Port and Provisions\u003c/a> that just highlights our catering cohort, nothing serious. We don’t answer emails or phones. I just like being an outdoor chef. It’s not a company, just me and some chef friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, ‘Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.’ When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the secret for making a perfect Bay Area sandwich?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, here’s a secret: Sandwiches are not really a passion of mine. I make them a lot when I travel, especially at my mom’s house. It’s lazy food. There are sandwich aficionados on Instagram, and I love that they love it that much. But I don’t go out of my way for a sandwich. When I was trying to figure out what the deli was, I was doing smoothies, porridge, quiche, lasagnas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, “Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.” When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen. At that point, I started to wonder about the world’s best sandwiches: the Reuben, Cuban, so on. I started out making the famous ones. I got busier and had too many ingredients so had to pare it down. We have no fire, no frying, no additives here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927897 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg\" alt=\"an array of fishermen's supplies available inside a liquor store in Sausalito\" width=\"720\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg 720w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An array of fishermen’s supplies are available inside New Bait Shop Market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>It’s not really about the sandwiches; I’m just a pretty good cook, and I’m nice to my people, and that is more magic than anything. I thought I might work in environmental remediation or environmental justice at one point but got no responses to any of the several hundred applications I sent out. It was like a “whoops” when I became a chef. It’s been comfy though — no commute, space for my catering. [The food industry] can be very brutal, so I have to also take care of myself. Watching those rotator cuffs (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immigrants come here and build a restaurant or work in kitchens, and we [Americans] tell our kids that it’s not honorable to sweep or mop — that being in food isn’t honorable. But my uncle once told me that the only honorable work on this planet is food — farming — and it’s true. They’re the only real producers. Everyone else is just taking and being a user. I don’t think there’s any honor in the craft of charging subscription fees (laughs). I’d just like people to honor chefs and the kitchen rather than hoping kids can do something better. Food is our first basic need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-12127869 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> is located inside New Bait Shop Market (1 Gate 6 Rd., Sausalito). The deli is open daily from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (or until sold out). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Flint’s Barbecue Reopens for a One-Day Pop-up in Berkeley",
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"content": "\u003cp>Most of the time, no one really remembers a restaurant 10 or 20 years after it closes. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">a Bay Area legend\u003c/a> in the art of finger-licking sauce and slow-smoked meats, is the exception that proves the rule: Even though the restaurant’s heyday was back in the 1970s and ’80s, old-timers in Oakland will \u003ci>still\u003c/i> talk your head off about that ’cue to this very day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That legacy is why folks were so excited when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of Flint’s founder Willie Flintroy, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">revived the family business\u003c/a> back in 2019, albeit mostly in the form of occasional pop-ups. And it’s why each of those pop-ups has been a sold-out, line-around-the-block affair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13894423,arts_13915387']\u003c/span>Mark April 30 on your calendar, then, if you’re a hardcore Flint’s head — or if you just want to see what your OG uncle from around the block has been making such a fuss about. That’s when Flint’s will hold its spring pop-up event in Berkeley. It’ll be the first time its barbecue has been available for purchase by the general public in the past seven months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Martin says she’s thinking about limiting the pop-up to a once-a-year tradition. These days, most of her business comes from catering and private events, and she doesn’t want the pop-ups to detract from her search for a more permanent brick-and-mortar home for Flint’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13896599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin of Flint's Barbecue at DeFremery Park in West Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin of Flint’s Barbecue. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That search has mostly been a disappointment. Martin’s original plan, to open in the original West Oakland Flint’s location on San Pablo Avenue, fell through. Then, the restaurant had a short-lived stint at a ghost kitchen facility in North Oakland. Apart from that, she’s looked at a string of locations that are way too expensive for her and her sisters to afford. “I’m beginning to get discouraged,” Martin says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s reached the point now where Martin has resigned herself to the likelihood that if Flint’s reopens, it’ll have to be far outside of Oakland. The city of Concord has reached out to her about relocating Flint’s to there. The city of Fairfield has reached out. Thus far, however, Martin says she hasn’t had any offer of assistance from the city of Oakland or any of its local community organizations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m surprised because everybody loves Flint’s so much — but I haven’t heard from any of the higher-ups,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coarse-ground links are one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The April 30 pop-up will be held at the barbecue spot’s current commercial kitchen location on Shattuck Avenue. Each $42.50 plate will come with ribs, chicken, links, a separate plate of sides and a drink. The new downtown Berkeley kitchen doesn’t have any place for people to dine in, but Martin says she’s had customers walk their food over to the UC Berkeley campus to enjoy a picnic-style barbecue feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers looking to stock up on the famous Flint’s barbecue sauce will have to be patient. Martin says she usually has a separate sauce pop-up just before the winter holidays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003ci>Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will pop up at 2428 Shattuck Ave. in Berkeley on Sun., April 30, 1–5 p.m. Customers must \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://flintsbarbecuepopups.simpletix.com/\">\u003ci>buy tickets in advance\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, with pickup times available at 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m. Ticket sales end on April 16.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Most of the time, no one really remembers a restaurant 10 or 20 years after it closes. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">a Bay Area legend\u003c/a> in the art of finger-licking sauce and slow-smoked meats, is the exception that proves the rule: Even though the restaurant’s heyday was back in the 1970s and ’80s, old-timers in Oakland will \u003ci>still\u003c/i> talk your head off about that ’cue to this very day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That legacy is why folks were so excited when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of Flint’s founder Willie Flintroy, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">revived the family business\u003c/a> back in 2019, albeit mostly in the form of occasional pop-ups. And it’s why each of those pop-ups has been a sold-out, line-around-the-block affair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Mark April 30 on your calendar, then, if you’re a hardcore Flint’s head — or if you just want to see what your OG uncle from around the block has been making such a fuss about. That’s when Flint’s will hold its spring pop-up event in Berkeley. It’ll be the first time its barbecue has been available for purchase by the general public in the past seven months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Martin says she’s thinking about limiting the pop-up to a once-a-year tradition. These days, most of her business comes from catering and private events, and she doesn’t want the pop-ups to detract from her search for a more permanent brick-and-mortar home for Flint’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13896599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin of Flint's Barbecue at DeFremery Park in West Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin of Flint’s Barbecue. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That search has mostly been a disappointment. Martin’s original plan, to open in the original West Oakland Flint’s location on San Pablo Avenue, fell through. Then, the restaurant had a short-lived stint at a ghost kitchen facility in North Oakland. Apart from that, she’s looked at a string of locations that are way too expensive for her and her sisters to afford. “I’m beginning to get discouraged,” Martin says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s reached the point now where Martin has resigned herself to the likelihood that if Flint’s reopens, it’ll have to be far outside of Oakland. The city of Concord has reached out to her about relocating Flint’s to there. The city of Fairfield has reached out. Thus far, however, Martin says she hasn’t had any offer of assistance from the city of Oakland or any of its local community organizations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m surprised because everybody loves Flint’s so much — but I haven’t heard from any of the higher-ups,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coarse-ground links are one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The April 30 pop-up will be held at the barbecue spot’s current commercial kitchen location on Shattuck Avenue. Each $42.50 plate will come with ribs, chicken, links, a separate plate of sides and a drink. The new downtown Berkeley kitchen doesn’t have any place for people to dine in, but Martin says she’s had customers walk their food over to the UC Berkeley campus to enjoy a picnic-style barbecue feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers looking to stock up on the famous Flint’s barbecue sauce will have to be patient. Martin says she usually has a separate sauce pop-up just before the winter holidays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003ci>Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will pop up at 2428 Shattuck Ave. in Berkeley on Sun., April 30, 1–5 p.m. Customers must \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://flintsbarbecuepopups.simpletix.com/\">\u003ci>buy tickets in advance\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, with pickup times available at 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m. Ticket sales end on April 16.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"rss": "https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"
}
},
"californiareport": {
"id": "californiareport",
"title": "The California Report",
"tagline": "California, day by day",
"info": "KQED’s statewide radio news program providing daily coverage of issues, trends and public policy decisions.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-California-Report-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareport",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 8
},
"link": "/californiareport",
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}
},
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"id": "californiareportmagazine",
"title": "The California Report Magazine",
"tagline": "Your state, your stories",
"info": "Every week, The California Report Magazine takes you on a road trip for the ears: to visit the places and meet the people who make California unique. The in-depth storytelling podcast from the California Report.",
"airtime": "FRI 4:30pm-5pm, 6:30pm-7pm, 11pm-11:30pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/californiareportmagazine",
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"order": 10
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM3NjkwNjk1OTAz",
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}
},
"city-arts": {
"id": "city-arts",
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"info": "A one-hour radio program to hear celebrated writers, artists and thinkers address contemporary ideas and values, often discussing the creative process. Please note: tapes or transcripts are not available",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/05/cityartsandlecture-300x300.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.cityarts.net/",
"airtime": "SUN 1pm-2pm, TUE 10pm, WED 1am",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "City Arts & Lectures"
},
"link": "https://www.cityarts.net",
"subscribe": {
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/City-Arts-and-Lectures-p692/",
"rss": "https://www.cityarts.net/feed/"
}
},
"closealltabs": {
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"info": "Close All Tabs breaks down how digital culture shapes our world through thoughtful insights and irreverent humor.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/closealltabs",
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"order": 1
},
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"title": "Code Switch / Life Kit",
"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"meta": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
"link": "/radio/program/commonwealth-club",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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}
},
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 9
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz",
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
"rss": "https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"
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},
"fresh-air": {
"id": "fresh-air",
"title": "Fresh Air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"
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},
"hidden-brain": {
"id": "hidden-brain",
"title": "Hidden Brain",
"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/series/423302056/hidden-brain",
"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
"subscribe": {
"npr": "https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/3zxy",
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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},
"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
"link": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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"rss": "https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC2275451163"
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/id1492194549",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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"rss": "https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"
}
},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
"link": "/radio/program/masters-of-scale",
"subscribe": {
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
}
},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
"subscribe": {
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
"site": "news",
"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x",
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"stitcher": "https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"
}
},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"info": "One of public radio's most dynamic voices, Sam Sanders helped launch The NPR Politics Podcast and hosted NPR's hit show It's Been A Minute. Now, the award-winning host returns with something brand new, The Sam Sanders Show. Every week, Sam Sanders and friends dig into the culture that shapes our lives: what's driving the biggest trends, how artists really think, and even the memes you can't stop scrolling past. Sam is beloved for his way of unpacking the world and bringing you up close to fresh currents and engaging conversations. The Sam Sanders Show is smart, funny and always a good time.",
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