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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the East Bay. On a spring afternoon, you can wander into an Oakland punk bar with an outdoor patio to enjoy a cocktail with a longtime friend and discuss the rise of artificial intelligence with a stranger at your table — all while sharing plates of fattoush (an Arabic salad) and foul medammes (a fava bean dip served with oil and pita bread) beneath the hazy sun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slow moments like this are welcomed in our fast-paced world — a chance to check in, make new connections and nourish a sense of self-care and community through an exchange of cultural lessons and life experiences. And, at least for this particular dive bar pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/\">Mishmish\u003c/a> — Michelle Nazzal’s take on vegan Palestinian recipes with a Bay Area lens — is at the center of it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historically, \u003ca href=\"https://decolonizepalestine.com/intro/palestine-throughout-history/\">Palestine and its diaspora have had to fight to resist erasure and preserve their identity\u003c/a>. Nazzal’s grandparents immigrated from Palestine to San Francisco in the 1960s, and her family has long used food as a way to sustain themselves and those around them. After opening Arabic markets around the city, the family eventually moved to Petaluma, where Nazzal grew up taking notes on her grandmother’s cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Nazzal, who is mixed white and Palestinian, food transcends a mere meal. Instead, it becomes a way to acknowledge the resilience of others, a conduit to pass down sacred knowledge and a gathering point for intergenerational optimism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stopping by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elismilehighclub/\">Eli’s Mile High Club\u003c/a> — where the pop-up ran throughout April — to experience Mishmish, I asked Nazzal about her connection to Palestine, Northern California and her grandmother’s recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Let’s start with “Mishmish.” What does that concept mean for you, and how did it turn into a food pop-up?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Michelle Nazzal: \u003c/b>It’s something that’s very personal to me. It means “apricot” in Arabic. [But it’s also] a nickname my grandpa gave me as a kid. People in my family call me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was putting together Mishmish, it started out in a different format. I was a graphic designer [at the time] and I was thinking of ways to document food. I spent time with my grandma and wanted to catalog it. It started out as a [PDF] cookbook project, a personal thing with family photos and things like that. It sort of became a thing where I made food for friends, and they asked if I had a pop-up. My parents had a grocery and deli around San Francisco but I hadn’t thought about getting into making food. It’s different [from the family’s market]. It’s Palestinian and vegan. A lot of Palestinian food is innately vegan, but I took time to change recipes that are usually meat-centric. It started out in 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928353\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928353\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"a tray of Palestinian food is served at an outdoor patio in Oakland\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foul medammes and fattoush served with a sweet pastry and pita bread. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In thinking about how I want Mishmish to feel, it’s welcoming and community-based. Providing things that are authentic and mostly traditional and hard to find, things I grew up with that are weird and niche, like jameed, a dried yogurt ball. It’s a really big process, but there’s no vegan version of that. I want to figure that out and offer it. Having my own twist on things that I’ve discovered and played around with as a vegan [that incorporate] other Arabic flavors as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are apricots common in Palestinian food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apricots are used frequently in desserts. You can get it in Turkish delight, puddings are made from or topped with it, compotes, jams. [It’s used] as a sweet component. There’s also a saying in Arabic, “Bukra fil mish-mish.” The season for apricots is so quick. They ripen and go bad really quickly. It’s a saying everyone always says. It’s like saying “when pigs fly.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your family migrate from Palestine to the Bay Area, and in what ways has food been passed on throughout that transition?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up with this food because of my grandma. My grandparents immigrated here in the ‘60s with a rich culture and background and all their recipes. When \u003ca href=\"https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/u-n-votes-for-partition-of-palestine\">the partition happened in the ‘40s\u003c/a>, my grandma was expelled from the land, which is now Tel Aviv. They decided they wanted to give the family a bit of a better life. A lot of [Palestinians] moved in the ‘60s. My family moved directly to San Francisco, around Cole Valley. They lived in one building, one family per floor, but all our family was together. My dad got to grow up with his first cousins in the same building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928382\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928382\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg\" alt='Old black-and-white photo of a woman standing inside a deli/market; a neon sign in back reads, \"Burgie!\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1536x1057.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal’s grandmother, Laurain Nazzal, inside the market her family used to run at 41st and Balboa in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michelle Nazzal)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My grandma grew up on a farm in Jericho, raising her food and livestock. The perspective she brings to [foodmaking] is from her region. My grandma taught me how to break down a vegetable or animal [because] it all has a purpose. We honor it. There’s something special about that. She showed me how to make a lot of things fully from scratch. There’s a tenderness and slowness to that. It can take multiple days; it’s involved and hands-on to prepare a big dish. It’s so community-based and community-oriented. Palestinians have a connection to the soil and agriculture which has been passed down through generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in the diaspora and having never gone to Palestine has been challenging, so my direct connection is through food and recipes. That’s how I connect to ancestral things I’ve inherited from my family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why is it important for you to serve Palestinian food in today’s Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s so much erasure happening with Palestine — the people, culture, land. Being in diaspora, you’re one step removed from everything, and the further you get and water it down, the more it gets diluted and starts disappearing. In the diaspora, it’s a good idea for us to represent those roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928383\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg\" alt=\"Tattooed woman wearing black plastic gloves prepares a plate of rice inside a restaurant kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal says she wants to introduce diners to Palestinian dishes that go beyond the usual hummus and shawarma. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My family comes from a Christian background, and there are a lot of Christian Palestinians in the Bay — especially in San Francisco, San Jose. If we went to a market, we knew people were Palestinian but it was never broadly announced. It’s challenging to honor your background as a small business owner, making sure it doesn’t affect your business. It was more challenging perhaps to do that back then, but it’s important to me to make that an essential part of what I’m doing. I don’t shy away from it. I have a punk and anarchist background so it’s important to honor that. Sharing my food, that’s important. Removing Palestine from it isn’t doing justice to the sacrifices my family has made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What challenges have you faced as a Palestinian American food maker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people think of places like the Arab region there tends to be a stereotype about the people or how the food will taste. With Arab food people default to shawarma, falafel, hummus. But there’s so much nuance to our food. It’s challenging when you have a pop-up because there are certain expectations to [serve] things like hummus. But I don’t always want to give that to people. I want to share dishes I grew up with that are special to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item you serve at Mishmish? And what’s an example of a traditional Palestinian dish that represents comfort for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928355\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1366px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1366\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg 1366w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-800x1199.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1020x1529.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-160x240.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-768x1151.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1025x1536.jpeg 1025w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1366px) 100vw, 1366px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bazella, a carrot and green pea stew, served at Mishmish. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My cashew labneh is a big hit. People who are lactose intolerant or maybe have never had labneh before love it. I’ve been a vegetarian for a long time and went vegan five or six years ago. I had to figure out how to replace knafeh, which is a cheese-based dessert, and labneh [with vegan substitutes]. That’s really special for me to share with people who have a similar background to experience and invoke those memories, but also for those who haven’t had it before to introduce those flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Depending upon where you’re from in Palestinian, there are very regional dishes. Labneh is, traditionally, yogurt that has been salted over time and fermented for over a week or so. Knafeh is very Palestinian, from Nablus. My family uses sweet and salty cheese and dough, like shredded filo, with orange powder and butter for a crunchy effect. It gets baked and dusted in sugar — it’s syrupy, very sweet, salty, crunchy. Depending on which region you’re from, they will make it differently. In Gaza they don’t use cheese; they make more of a baklava filling with spiced walnuts and pistachios. But it’s specifically Palestinian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are variations [of similar dishes in other regions]. Labneh, hummus, falafel — a lot of people in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq and Yemen, they all make similar food. But it’s important to highlight things that are specific to your culture, to make those differentiations. That’s important to me with Mishmish — to make dishes that have inspirations, maybe from Persian food or other Arab countries that are adjacent to Palestine, but I want to make sure to make that differentiation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928354\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg\" alt=\"a menu for Mishmish, a Palestinian pop-up, offers a variety of family-style plates\" width=\"750\" height=\"1104\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg 750w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium-160x236.jpeg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mishmish offers a rotating array of Palestinian and SSWANA-inspired vegan foods. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has growing up in San Francisco and Petaluma influenced your approach to food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes take special trips around the Bay to get something I’m specifically looking for. I remember being a kid and taking Muni with my grandma and going to different Filipino vendors to find things that are similar in our cultures. My grandma would find the closest possible thing to use in her cooking. That’s really special — being able to adapt and support other people and cultures. It’s a cool cross-cultural way of honoring food. It gives you a wider appreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few businesses here are an inspiration for me. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/queens_sf/?hl=en\">Queens\u003c/a> in San Francisco, a Korean market. They make and vend Korean foods and ingredients you can’t really find anywhere else. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>, of course, is an amazing Arab street food place and bakery. I love their idea of creating equitable workplaces for people. That’s important to how I structure my business and how I want to hire and provide a safe work environment for people who are paid well. I also like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/liondancecafe/\">Lion Dance\u003c/a> — they’re a vegan Singaporean restaurant here in Oakland. I appreciate their approach. One of the owners is Singaporean and the other is Italian, so they’ve created a beautiful menu that honors the authenticity of their foods and cultures. I celebrate that and want to see that more for SSWANA people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s SSWANA?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13918017,arts_13925984,arts_13920581']\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13918017/jeweled-rice-art-persian-food-sswana-middle-eastern-pop-up\">SSWANA\u003c/a> means South Asian, Southwest Asian and North African. When you think of Middle Eastern versus SSWANA, SSWANA is actually more accurate. Middle Eastern is a colonized word and term that was created by people who aren’t Arab. I’m trying to help change that narrative by changing my vocabulary. I’ve had a wild experience filling out my ethnicity on census forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>That’s dope, I didn’t know that. I think specificity is important for the liberation of all groups. What’s next on your food journey?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels good to see where I’ve gone without any [formal] cooking background. I’ve cooked with my family throughout my life, but by figuring out how to make food to order and things like that, I’ve made progress. I’m always wondering: What feels good? How do I want to move forward? What that means for me right now is I’ll probably move away from the pop-up format and go into farmers markets and package my food and eventually keep building toward my brick-and-mortar grocery and deli. When I first started out I didn’t have the intention of it being a full-blown food project, but it went on that trajectory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003ci>Mishmish\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> operates as a roaming pop-up around the Bay Area. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Check online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for updates on locations and menus. They appear every second Sunday of the month at Birba Wine Bar (458 Grove St., San Francisco) from 1–8 p.m. They will also pop up at\u003c/i> \u003ci>Millennium Restaurant (5912 College Ave., Oakland) on Sun., May 21 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Abacus Row (1256 Mason St., San Francisco) on Sat., June 24, time TBD.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love the East Bay. On a spring afternoon, you can wander into an Oakland punk bar with an outdoor patio to enjoy a cocktail with a longtime friend and discuss the rise of artificial intelligence with a stranger at your table — all while sharing plates of fattoush (an Arabic salad) and foul medammes (a fava bean dip served with oil and pita bread) beneath the hazy sun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slow moments like this are welcomed in our fast-paced world — a chance to check in, make new connections and nourish a sense of self-care and community through an exchange of cultural lessons and life experiences. And, at least for this particular dive bar pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/\">Mishmish\u003c/a> — Michelle Nazzal’s take on vegan Palestinian recipes with a Bay Area lens — is at the center of it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historically, \u003ca href=\"https://decolonizepalestine.com/intro/palestine-throughout-history/\">Palestine and its diaspora have had to fight to resist erasure and preserve their identity\u003c/a>. Nazzal’s grandparents immigrated from Palestine to San Francisco in the 1960s, and her family has long used food as a way to sustain themselves and those around them. After opening Arabic markets around the city, the family eventually moved to Petaluma, where Nazzal grew up taking notes on her grandmother’s cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Nazzal, who is mixed white and Palestinian, food transcends a mere meal. Instead, it becomes a way to acknowledge the resilience of others, a conduit to pass down sacred knowledge and a gathering point for intergenerational optimism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After stopping by \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elismilehighclub/\">Eli’s Mile High Club\u003c/a> — where the pop-up ran throughout April — to experience Mishmish, I asked Nazzal about her connection to Palestine, Northern California and her grandmother’s recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: Let’s start with “Mishmish.” What does that concept mean for you, and how did it turn into a food pop-up?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Michelle Nazzal: \u003c/b>It’s something that’s very personal to me. It means “apricot” in Arabic. [But it’s also] a nickname my grandpa gave me as a kid. People in my family call me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was putting together Mishmish, it started out in a different format. I was a graphic designer [at the time] and I was thinking of ways to document food. I spent time with my grandma and wanted to catalog it. It started out as a [PDF] cookbook project, a personal thing with family photos and things like that. It sort of became a thing where I made food for friends, and they asked if I had a pop-up. My parents had a grocery and deli around San Francisco but I hadn’t thought about getting into making food. It’s different [from the family’s market]. It’s Palestinian and vegan. A lot of Palestinian food is innately vegan, but I took time to change recipes that are usually meat-centric. It started out in 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928353\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928353\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"a tray of Palestinian food is served at an outdoor patio in Oakland\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large.jpeg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/uag2vFZW.jpg-large-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Foul medammes and fattoush served with a sweet pastry and pita bread. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In thinking about how I want Mishmish to feel, it’s welcoming and community-based. Providing things that are authentic and mostly traditional and hard to find, things I grew up with that are weird and niche, like jameed, a dried yogurt ball. It’s a really big process, but there’s no vegan version of that. I want to figure that out and offer it. Having my own twist on things that I’ve discovered and played around with as a vegan [that incorporate] other Arabic flavors as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Are apricots common in Palestinian food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apricots are used frequently in desserts. You can get it in Turkish delight, puddings are made from or topped with it, compotes, jams. [It’s used] as a sweet component. There’s also a saying in Arabic, “Bukra fil mish-mish.” The season for apricots is so quick. They ripen and go bad really quickly. It’s a saying everyone always says. It’s like saying “when pigs fly.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your family migrate from Palestine to the Bay Area, and in what ways has food been passed on throughout that transition?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up with this food because of my grandma. My grandparents immigrated here in the ‘60s with a rich culture and background and all their recipes. When \u003ca href=\"https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/u-n-votes-for-partition-of-palestine\">the partition happened in the ‘40s\u003c/a>, my grandma was expelled from the land, which is now Tel Aviv. They decided they wanted to give the family a bit of a better life. A lot of [Palestinians] moved in the ‘60s. My family moved directly to San Francisco, around Cole Valley. They lived in one building, one family per floor, but all our family was together. My dad got to grow up with his first cousins in the same building.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928382\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928382\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg\" alt='Old black-and-white photo of a woman standing inside a deli/market; a neon sign in back reads, \"Burgie!\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1321\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1020x702.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Tete_RichmondMarket-1-1536x1057.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal’s grandmother, Laurain Nazzal, inside the market her family used to run at 41st and Balboa in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michelle Nazzal)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My grandma grew up on a farm in Jericho, raising her food and livestock. The perspective she brings to [foodmaking] is from her region. My grandma taught me how to break down a vegetable or animal [because] it all has a purpose. We honor it. There’s something special about that. She showed me how to make a lot of things fully from scratch. There’s a tenderness and slowness to that. It can take multiple days; it’s involved and hands-on to prepare a big dish. It’s so community-based and community-oriented. Palestinians have a connection to the soil and agriculture which has been passed down through generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in the diaspora and having never gone to Palestine has been challenging, so my direct connection is through food and recipes. That’s how I connect to ancestral things I’ve inherited from my family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why is it important for you to serve Palestinian food in today’s Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s so much erasure happening with Palestine — the people, culture, land. Being in diaspora, you’re one step removed from everything, and the further you get and water it down, the more it gets diluted and starts disappearing. In the diaspora, it’s a good idea for us to represent those roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928383\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928383\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg\" alt=\"Tattooed woman wearing black plastic gloves prepares a plate of rice inside a restaurant kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/mishmish_nazzal-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nazzal says she wants to introduce diners to Palestinian dishes that go beyond the usual hummus and shawarma. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My family comes from a Christian background, and there are a lot of Christian Palestinians in the Bay — especially in San Francisco, San Jose. If we went to a market, we knew people were Palestinian but it was never broadly announced. It’s challenging to honor your background as a small business owner, making sure it doesn’t affect your business. It was more challenging perhaps to do that back then, but it’s important to me to make that an essential part of what I’m doing. I don’t shy away from it. I have a punk and anarchist background so it’s important to honor that. Sharing my food, that’s important. Removing Palestine from it isn’t doing justice to the sacrifices my family has made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What challenges have you faced as a Palestinian American food maker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people think of places like the Arab region there tends to be a stereotype about the people or how the food will taste. With Arab food people default to shawarma, falafel, hummus. But there’s so much nuance to our food. It’s challenging when you have a pop-up because there are certain expectations to [serve] things like hummus. But I don’t always want to give that to people. I want to share dishes I grew up with that are special to me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the most popular item you serve at Mishmish? And what’s an example of a traditional Palestinian dish that represents comfort for you?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928355\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1366px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928355\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1366\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large.jpeg 1366w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-800x1199.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1020x1529.jpeg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-160x240.jpeg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-768x1151.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/5HOA9KqO.jpg-large-1025x1536.jpeg 1025w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1366px) 100vw, 1366px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bazella, a carrot and green pea stew, served at Mishmish. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My cashew labneh is a big hit. People who are lactose intolerant or maybe have never had labneh before love it. I’ve been a vegetarian for a long time and went vegan five or six years ago. I had to figure out how to replace knafeh, which is a cheese-based dessert, and labneh [with vegan substitutes]. That’s really special for me to share with people who have a similar background to experience and invoke those memories, but also for those who haven’t had it before to introduce those flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Depending upon where you’re from in Palestinian, there are very regional dishes. Labneh is, traditionally, yogurt that has been salted over time and fermented for over a week or so. Knafeh is very Palestinian, from Nablus. My family uses sweet and salty cheese and dough, like shredded filo, with orange powder and butter for a crunchy effect. It gets baked and dusted in sugar — it’s syrupy, very sweet, salty, crunchy. Depending on which region you’re from, they will make it differently. In Gaza they don’t use cheese; they make more of a baklava filling with spiced walnuts and pistachios. But it’s specifically Palestinian.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are variations [of similar dishes in other regions]. Labneh, hummus, falafel — a lot of people in Lebanon, Syria, Iraq and Yemen, they all make similar food. But it’s important to highlight things that are specific to your culture, to make those differentiations. That’s important to me with Mishmish — to make dishes that have inspirations, maybe from Persian food or other Arab countries that are adjacent to Palestine, but I want to make sure to make that differentiation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928354\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928354\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg\" alt=\"a menu for Mishmish, a Palestinian pop-up, offers a variety of family-style plates\" width=\"750\" height=\"1104\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium.jpeg 750w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/KU86MpD2.jpg-medium-160x236.jpeg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 750px) 100vw, 750px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mishmish offers a rotating array of Palestinian and SSWANA-inspired vegan foods. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How has growing up in San Francisco and Petaluma influenced your approach to food?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes take special trips around the Bay to get something I’m specifically looking for. I remember being a kid and taking Muni with my grandma and going to different Filipino vendors to find things that are similar in our cultures. My grandma would find the closest possible thing to use in her cooking. That’s really special — being able to adapt and support other people and cultures. It’s a cool cross-cultural way of honoring food. It gives you a wider appreciation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few businesses here are an inspiration for me. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/queens_sf/?hl=en\">Queens\u003c/a> in San Francisco, a Korean market. They make and vend Korean foods and ingredients you can’t really find anywhere else. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>, of course, is an amazing Arab street food place and bakery. I love their idea of creating equitable workplaces for people. That’s important to how I structure my business and how I want to hire and provide a safe work environment for people who are paid well. I also like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/liondancecafe/\">Lion Dance\u003c/a> — they’re a vegan Singaporean restaurant here in Oakland. I appreciate their approach. One of the owners is Singaporean and the other is Italian, so they’ve created a beautiful menu that honors the authenticity of their foods and cultures. I celebrate that and want to see that more for SSWANA people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s SSWANA?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13918017/jeweled-rice-art-persian-food-sswana-middle-eastern-pop-up\">SSWANA\u003c/a> means South Asian, Southwest Asian and North African. When you think of Middle Eastern versus SSWANA, SSWANA is actually more accurate. Middle Eastern is a colonized word and term that was created by people who aren’t Arab. I’m trying to help change that narrative by changing my vocabulary. I’ve had a wild experience filling out my ethnicity on census forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>That’s dope, I didn’t know that. I think specificity is important for the liberation of all groups. What’s next on your food journey?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It feels good to see where I’ve gone without any [formal] cooking background. I’ve cooked with my family throughout my life, but by figuring out how to make food to order and things like that, I’ve made progress. I’m always wondering: What feels good? How do I want to move forward? What that means for me right now is I’ll probably move away from the pop-up format and go into farmers markets and package my food and eventually keep building toward my brick-and-mortar grocery and deli. When I first started out I didn’t have the intention of it being a full-blown food project, but it went on that trajectory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mishmishsouq.com/\">\u003ci>Mishmish\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> operates as a roaming pop-up around the Bay Area. \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mishmishsouq/?hl=en\">\u003ci>Check online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> for updates on locations and menus. They appear every second Sunday of the month at Birba Wine Bar (458 Grove St., San Francisco) from 1–8 p.m. They will also pop up at\u003c/i> \u003ci>Millennium Restaurant (5912 College Ave., Oakland) on Sun., May 21 from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Abacus Row (1256 Mason St., San Francisco) on Sat., June 24, time TBD.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How a Punk Rock–Inspired Pizza Shop Helped Me Feel at Home in Sacramento",
"headTitle": "How a Punk Rock–Inspired Pizza Shop Helped Me Feel at Home in Sacramento | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Two summers ago, when I told a fellow skater and frequent local of the Rockridge BART parking lot — a popular Oakland skate spot — that I was moving to Sacramento, he immediately recommended \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/a>. The downtown pizzeria was, in his opinion, one of the city’s best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food recommendations are an everyday occurrence, but a referral from a skater — a member of a subculture rich with niche tastes and preferences measured to the millimeter, plus a ground level relationship with cities — is something I take to heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located steps from the California State Capitol Park on the corner of 14th and O Streets, Pizza Supreme Being is what I frequently describe as a spotless, well-organized merch table at a hardcore show that just happens to sell amazing sourdough slices and pies. According to co-owner Ben Roberts, I’m not far off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I legitimately run this brand like I would a hardcore band or like a skateboard company,” Roberts explains. He approaches speciality pizza pies “as like a single for a band.” Limited, one-and-done merch drops create the type of cultural FOMO Roberts himself has fallen victim to, growing up skateboarding, playing in bands and going to underground shows. “I love seeing things out in the wild that I did happen to miss,” he explains. “It brings me back to those moments and things in my life that I was always so drawn to. I gotta make sure that I don’t lose touch with that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928215\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928215\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Roberts in a black punk rock T-shirt poses along with his pizza shop's employees, all dressed in white.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roberts (left) and his crew run the shop like it’s a skateboard brand or like they’re selling merch at a hardcore punk show. \u003ccite>(José Vadi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After years in fine dining, Roberts started Pizza Supreme Being as a pop-up around 2015 after building a transportable wood-fire oven. He spent four years serving slices at bars and wineries on weekends, building a local following serving pies with a more standard yeasted dough before transitioning to naturally leavened sourdough per the recommendation of wife and business partner, Pembe Sonmez-Roberts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to feed the [sourdough] starter twice a day,” Roberts says, explaining that this wasn’t practical in the business’s early years. Once they made the switch, however, the end result tasted “worlds better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They got keys to the restaurant in March 2019, opened by April, and celebrated their one-year anniversary by transitioning to shelter in place during the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Three years later, “I feel like this is what’s normal,” Roberts explains. Even now the restaurant only offers outdoor dining and to-go orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the original restaurant dream was fork and knives with wood-fired pies, the reality-driven plan is affordable slices and pies “with superior ingredients.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I put all of our focus on our dough and our cheese blend,” Roberts says, detailing the organic tomatoes and never-bromated U.S. milled flour he uses daily. He also makes a signature homemade ranch dressing that when purchased online includes a YouTube tutorial link from Roberts himself. But lest you think everything on the menu has artisanal ambitions, Roberts says, “I also put Spam on pizza.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Spam is a trademark of the restaurant’s take on Hawaiian pizza, along with jalapeño and pineapple. The Heatwave Pizza combines hot coppa with jalapeño and Mike’s Hot Honey. And regulars know to come early (and hungry) enough to snag a square pepperoni slice, topped to the Detroit-style corners with pepperoni cups, before they sell out — and make no mistake, Pizza Supreme Being’s whole lineup of pizza always winds up selling out. Lining up to the kiosk window to place an order feels less like an exclusive foodie experience and more akin to buying tickets to a show. Slices are served to your seats outside, where government professionals, cross-city bike crews, pre-gaming hardcore show kids, skaters, families and beyond intersect in allegiance to a supreme being of a sourdough crust perfected to the last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928222\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928222\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a pizza topped with hot coppa and jalapeños. \" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Heatwave pizza combines hot coppa, jalapeños and Mike’s Hot Honey. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s also impressive for such a small restaurant is that it hosts a whole network of local, multicultural food industry upstarts. Eddie Torres, who works full-time at Pizza Supreme Being, recently debuted a pizza featuring achiote marinated pork sausage and mojo verde as part of his own pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacocina_de_carmen/\">La Cocina de Carmen\u003c/a> — his “vision of a California cuisine restaurant with Puerto Rican influence.” The restaurant has also hosted \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/congeecult/\">Congee Cult\u003c/a>, a two-person pop-up serving new takes on Chinese rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13919707,arts_13915581,news_11815327']\u003c/span>Part of this community-driven mindset is a direct product of the music scenes Roberts grew up with. Now, with limited free time as a business owner and new parent, Roberts stays connected to those scenes by offering a good meal to visiting hardcore acts like Candy, Extinguish, Big Boy and the Los Angeles powerviolence band Zulu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I try my best to look at tour dates of bands that I really enjoy, or even ones I haven’t listened to that much, and just say ‘Pull up and I’ll feed you,’” Robert explains. “I know that they’re hungry, on the road, eating fast food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes Roberts lets these touring bands, like San Jose’s Sunami, set up a little merch pop-up — and, like any proper skate shop or hardcore band, the restaurant offers its own line of cheeky merch as well. One of my personal favorites is a T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn character inspired by Youth of Today lead singer Ray Cappo leaping mid-air, mid-song. The restaurant sells \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBhzYzvJpm/?hl=en\">bumper stickers\u003c/a> that advocate for pepperoni cups and playfully trolls corporate ranch dressing manufacturers with the simple question, “Where the Heck is Hidden Valley?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928223\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928223\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg\" alt='Bumper stickers arranged on a white pizza box: \"Gas...Brake...Dip...Your Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Went to Pizza Supreme Being and All I Got Was This Lousy Bumper Sticker,\" \"Welcome to Sacramento, We Dip Our Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Brake for Pepperoni Cups,\" and \"Where the Heck Is Hidden Valley?\"' width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pizza brand’s merch lineup includes a selection of cheeky pepperoni- and ranch dressing-themed bumper stickers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While a small, punk-inspired pizza shop might seem like an unlikely avatar for Sacramento’s acclaimed food scene, a sense of local pride is palpable in everything that Pizza Supreme Being produces. The restaurant’s Instagram Stories often feature selfies of Roberts posing in front of the beam lit above the Golden 1 Center after every Kings win, and the chef is effusive about how much cool stuff is happening in the capital city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the best parts of skateboarding, hardcore and similar subcultures are the communities they engender, why wouldn’t that also be true for a pizza restaurant? For me, Pizza Supreme Being has been a welcome portal into a Sacramento scene I’m still slowly getting to know — one whose hard-working ethos speaks for itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I get really tired of being compared to other cities — the rising this or the next that,” Roberts says. “Just let us be us and see what we got.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">\u003ci>Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 1425 14th St., Ste. C, in Sacramento. Open Wed.–Sun., noon to 8:30 p.m. (or until sold out). Cashless — order \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://curbyourpickup.square.site/\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> or call 916-917-5559. Follow them on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzasupremebeing/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Two summers ago, when I told a fellow skater and frequent local of the Rockridge BART parking lot — a popular Oakland skate spot — that I was moving to Sacramento, he immediately recommended \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/a>. The downtown pizzeria was, in his opinion, one of the city’s best.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food recommendations are an everyday occurrence, but a referral from a skater — a member of a subculture rich with niche tastes and preferences measured to the millimeter, plus a ground level relationship with cities — is something I take to heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located steps from the California State Capitol Park on the corner of 14th and O Streets, Pizza Supreme Being is what I frequently describe as a spotless, well-organized merch table at a hardcore show that just happens to sell amazing sourdough slices and pies. According to co-owner Ben Roberts, I’m not far off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I legitimately run this brand like I would a hardcore band or like a skateboard company,” Roberts explains. He approaches speciality pizza pies “as like a single for a band.” Limited, one-and-done merch drops create the type of cultural FOMO Roberts himself has fallen victim to, growing up skateboarding, playing in bands and going to underground shows. “I love seeing things out in the wild that I did happen to miss,” he explains. “It brings me back to those moments and things in my life that I was always so drawn to. I gotta make sure that I don’t lose touch with that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928215\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928215\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg\" alt=\"Ben Roberts in a black punk rock T-shirt poses along with his pizza shop's employees, all dressed in white.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/pizza-supreme-being-crew-color-correct-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roberts (left) and his crew run the shop like it’s a skateboard brand or like they’re selling merch at a hardcore punk show. \u003ccite>(José Vadi)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After years in fine dining, Roberts started Pizza Supreme Being as a pop-up around 2015 after building a transportable wood-fire oven. He spent four years serving slices at bars and wineries on weekends, building a local following serving pies with a more standard yeasted dough before transitioning to naturally leavened sourdough per the recommendation of wife and business partner, Pembe Sonmez-Roberts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to feed the [sourdough] starter twice a day,” Roberts says, explaining that this wasn’t practical in the business’s early years. Once they made the switch, however, the end result tasted “worlds better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They got keys to the restaurant in March 2019, opened by April, and celebrated their one-year anniversary by transitioning to shelter in place during the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Three years later, “I feel like this is what’s normal,” Roberts explains. Even now the restaurant only offers outdoor dining and to-go orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the original restaurant dream was fork and knives with wood-fired pies, the reality-driven plan is affordable slices and pies “with superior ingredients.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I put all of our focus on our dough and our cheese blend,” Roberts says, detailing the organic tomatoes and never-bromated U.S. milled flour he uses daily. He also makes a signature homemade ranch dressing that when purchased online includes a YouTube tutorial link from Roberts himself. But lest you think everything on the menu has artisanal ambitions, Roberts says, “I also put Spam on pizza.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Spam is a trademark of the restaurant’s take on Hawaiian pizza, along with jalapeño and pineapple. The Heatwave Pizza combines hot coppa with jalapeño and Mike’s Hot Honey. And regulars know to come early (and hungry) enough to snag a square pepperoni slice, topped to the Detroit-style corners with pepperoni cups, before they sell out — and make no mistake, Pizza Supreme Being’s whole lineup of pizza always winds up selling out. Lining up to the kiosk window to place an order feels less like an exclusive foodie experience and more akin to buying tickets to a show. Slices are served to your seats outside, where government professionals, cross-city bike crews, pre-gaming hardcore show kids, skaters, families and beyond intersect in allegiance to a supreme being of a sourdough crust perfected to the last bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928222\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928222\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg\" alt=\"Overhead view of a pizza topped with hot coppa and jalapeños. \" width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332794941_174738161951148_860703287127675705_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Heatwave pizza combines hot coppa, jalapeños and Mike’s Hot Honey. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What’s also impressive for such a small restaurant is that it hosts a whole network of local, multicultural food industry upstarts. Eddie Torres, who works full-time at Pizza Supreme Being, recently debuted a pizza featuring achiote marinated pork sausage and mojo verde as part of his own pop-up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lacocina_de_carmen/\">La Cocina de Carmen\u003c/a> — his “vision of a California cuisine restaurant with Puerto Rican influence.” The restaurant has also hosted \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/congeecult/\">Congee Cult\u003c/a>, a two-person pop-up serving new takes on Chinese rice porridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Part of this community-driven mindset is a direct product of the music scenes Roberts grew up with. Now, with limited free time as a business owner and new parent, Roberts stays connected to those scenes by offering a good meal to visiting hardcore acts like Candy, Extinguish, Big Boy and the Los Angeles powerviolence band Zulu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I try my best to look at tour dates of bands that I really enjoy, or even ones I haven’t listened to that much, and just say ‘Pull up and I’ll feed you,’” Robert explains. “I know that they’re hungry, on the road, eating fast food.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes Roberts lets these touring bands, like San Jose’s Sunami, set up a little merch pop-up — and, like any proper skate shop or hardcore band, the restaurant offers its own line of cheeky merch as well. One of my personal favorites is a T-shirt featuring a hand-drawn character inspired by Youth of Today lead singer Ray Cappo leaping mid-air, mid-song. The restaurant sells \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBhzYzvJpm/?hl=en\">bumper stickers\u003c/a> that advocate for pepperoni cups and playfully trolls corporate ranch dressing manufacturers with the simple question, “Where the Heck is Hidden Valley?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928223\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928223\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg\" alt='Bumper stickers arranged on a white pizza box: \"Gas...Brake...Dip...Your Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Went to Pizza Supreme Being and All I Got Was This Lousy Bumper Sticker,\" \"Welcome to Sacramento, We Dip Our Pizza in Ranch,\" \"I Brake for Pepperoni Cups,\" and \"Where the Heck Is Hidden Valley?\"' width=\"1080\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n.jpg 1080w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-800x800.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-160x160.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/332557431_949086672784735_8808409291648642488_n-768x768.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The pizza brand’s merch lineup includes a selection of cheeky pepperoni- and ranch dressing-themed bumper stickers. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Pizza Supreme Being/Instagram)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While a small, punk-inspired pizza shop might seem like an unlikely avatar for Sacramento’s acclaimed food scene, a sense of local pride is palpable in everything that Pizza Supreme Being produces. The restaurant’s Instagram Stories often feature selfies of Roberts posing in front of the beam lit above the Golden 1 Center after every Kings win, and the chef is effusive about how much cool stuff is happening in the capital city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the best parts of skateboarding, hardcore and similar subcultures are the communities they engender, why wouldn’t that also be true for a pizza restaurant? For me, Pizza Supreme Being has been a welcome portal into a Sacramento scene I’m still slowly getting to know — one whose hard-working ethos speaks for itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I get really tired of being compared to other cities — the rising this or the next that,” Roberts says. “Just let us be us and see what we got.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzasupremebeing.com/\">\u003ci>Pizza Supreme Being\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is located at 1425 14th St., Ste. C, in Sacramento. Open Wed.–Sun., noon to 8:30 p.m. (or until sold out). Cashless — order \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://curbyourpickup.square.site/\">\u003ci>online\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> or call 916-917-5559. Follow them on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/pizzasupremebeing/\">\u003ci>Instagram\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>For years, I watched televised cooking competitions like \u003ci>Top Chef\u003c/i> religiously. The amateur home cook in me would nerd out over knife skills and ad hoc sous vide contraptions. The romantic in me loved seeing chefs pay heartwarming homage to treasured family recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so much of American reality television, however, over time these shows began to feel \u003ca href=\"https://screenrant.com/top-chef-most-creative-branded-challenges\">overly corporatized\u003c/a> and, at times, actively toxic — \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/09/dining/top-chef-season-20.html\">a microcosm of the restaurant industry itself\u003c/a>. They didn’t seem to understand non-European cuisines at all. One favorite chef contestant was \u003ca href=\"https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/paul-qui-problem-redemption-narratives/\">outed as an alleged domestic abuser\u003c/a>. At least two others were \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonian.com/2018/11/26/the-inside-story-of-mike-isabellas-fallen-empire/\">accused of\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.gawker.com/culture/whatever-happened-to-gabe-erales-the-sex-pest-who-won-top-chef-season-18\">sexual harassment\u003c/a>.\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13904835,arts_13927103']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tuned out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new web series led by young immigrants is giving me reason to tune back in. Produced not by one of the big cable networks or streaming services, \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/nobordersjustflavors/\">\u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/i>\u003c/a> is instead the creation of the nonprofit advocacy group \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/\">United We Dream\u003c/a>, which touts itself as the largest immigrant youth network in the United States. The organization is mostly known for its work pushing for a pathway for citizenship for young undocumented folks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a cooking show? Why not? After all, the food of one’s cultural heritage is the throughline for so many immigrant experiences — a theme that comes up again and again in each of the show’s four 15-minute episodes, the first of which debuts on April 20.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbFu2w8EeRc\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is only a “competition” in the most nominal sense, in that each episode features two contestants — immigrants in their 20s or late teens — who have come prepared to cook a dish that fits the chosen theme of the day (e.g. “stews” or “hand-rolled and fried”). The judges taste each dish and declare a winner, but there’s no big cash prize — or even bragging rights, really — at stake. (In an email, Catherine Lee, a United We Dream spokesperson, clarified that the contestants were fairly compensated for their participation.) Nor is there much focus on complicated cooking methods or technical prowess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is mostly a vehicle for storytelling centered on each amateur chef’s cultural identity. In the first episode, Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez, a DACA recipient from Sacramento, talks about how his mother’s carne en su jugo recipe is one of the only ways he’s able to feel connected to his family in Guadalajara, Mexico, since he’s unable to cross the border to visit. In another episode, Betsabe Perez Mertija talks movingly about the little papas rellenas stand that her grandfather used to run in Cuba before coming to the U.S. as a political asylee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg\" alt=\"A stew made with bacon, onion, beans and avocado, served with a bowl of tostadas on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Contestant Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez’s carne en su jugo is made with bacon, onions, avocado and beans. The dish is a tribute to the cook’s mother and his Guadalajaran roots. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the contestants are just so darn \u003ci>likable\u003c/i>. Even the show’s handful of goofy, lo-fi cooking competition gimmicks — like a button you press to force your opponent to stop what they’re doing to help you — wind up turning into sweet moments of cross-cultural connection instead of cutthroat contention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928092\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1424px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928092 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A headshot of a young Indonesian-Chinese immigrant with long dyed hair and an infectious smile.\" width=\"1424\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg 1424w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-800x1438.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1020x1834.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-160x288.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-768x1381.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-854x1536.jpg 854w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1139x2048.jpg 1139w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1424px) 100vw, 1424px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dru Lay participated in the show’s first episode, representing his Indonesian and Chinese cultural identities. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Dru Lay, a Chinese-Indonesian contestant in the first episode, puts it, “Being an immigrant almost automatically means we have a lot in common.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who’ve grown accustomed to every reality TV series having a handful of token Black, brown and Asian contestants who all get eliminated halfway through the season, a show like \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is a breath of fresh air. Nearly \u003ci>everyone\u003c/i> involved in the show is an immigrant or person of color — the contestants, host, director, producers and art directors. Some of the crew members are undocumented immigrants and DACA recipients themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That approach is reflected in the show’s intended audience, too: Host Morelys De Los Santos Urbano ends each episode by asking contestants if they have any words of wisdom they’d like to offer to the immigrant youth who might be watching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the main point of the show, for United We Dream, seems to be to flip the script on the typical ways that immigrants — whether they’re documented or not — tend to get portrayed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All too often, we hear immigrant stories as told by people other than immigrants themselves,” says Lee of United We Dream. “The immigration headlines are dominated by stories of struggle, suffering and survival. But there’s another side of the immigrant story that’s rarely represented in mainstream media: our joy, our courage and vision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if these four snack-sized episodes serve as proof of concept that America is ready for a more immigrant-centric approach to food television? I’ll be ready to tune in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first episode of \u003c/i>\u003cem>‘No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/em>’ \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTahl_sx9fesEeRvIbZEESALwbdlBWs0U\">\u003ci>debuts on YouTube\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on April 20, at 5 p.m. PST. A new episode will go up online every Thursday night for the next three weeks after that.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For years, I watched televised cooking competitions like \u003ci>Top Chef\u003c/i> religiously. The amateur home cook in me would nerd out over knife skills and ad hoc sous vide contraptions. The romantic in me loved seeing chefs pay heartwarming homage to treasured family recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like so much of American reality television, however, over time these shows began to feel \u003ca href=\"https://screenrant.com/top-chef-most-creative-branded-challenges\">overly corporatized\u003c/a> and, at times, actively toxic — \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2023/03/09/dining/top-chef-season-20.html\">a microcosm of the restaurant industry itself\u003c/a>. They didn’t seem to understand non-European cuisines at all. One favorite chef contestant was \u003ca href=\"https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/paul-qui-problem-redemption-narratives/\">outed as an alleged domestic abuser\u003c/a>. At least two others were \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonian.com/2018/11/26/the-inside-story-of-mike-isabellas-fallen-empire/\">accused of\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.gawker.com/culture/whatever-happened-to-gabe-erales-the-sex-pest-who-won-top-chef-season-18\">sexual harassment\u003c/a>.\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tuned out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new web series led by young immigrants is giving me reason to tune back in. Produced not by one of the big cable networks or streaming services, \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/nobordersjustflavors/\">\u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/i>\u003c/a> is instead the creation of the nonprofit advocacy group \u003ca href=\"https://unitedwedream.org/\">United We Dream\u003c/a>, which touts itself as the largest immigrant youth network in the United States. The organization is mostly known for its work pushing for a pathway for citizenship for young undocumented folks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a cooking show? Why not? After all, the food of one’s cultural heritage is the throughline for so many immigrant experiences — a theme that comes up again and again in each of the show’s four 15-minute episodes, the first of which debuts on April 20.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/CbFu2w8EeRc'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/CbFu2w8EeRc'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is only a “competition” in the most nominal sense, in that each episode features two contestants — immigrants in their 20s or late teens — who have come prepared to cook a dish that fits the chosen theme of the day (e.g. “stews” or “hand-rolled and fried”). The judges taste each dish and declare a winner, but there’s no big cash prize — or even bragging rights, really — at stake. (In an email, Catherine Lee, a United We Dream spokesperson, clarified that the contestants were fairly compensated for their participation.) Nor is there much focus on complicated cooking methods or technical prowess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is mostly a vehicle for storytelling centered on each amateur chef’s cultural identity. In the first episode, Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez, a DACA recipient from Sacramento, talks about how his mother’s carne en su jugo recipe is one of the only ways he’s able to feel connected to his family in Guadalajara, Mexico, since he’s unable to cross the border to visit. In another episode, Betsabe Perez Mertija talks movingly about the little papas rellenas stand that her grandfather used to run in Cuba before coming to the U.S. as a political asylee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928088\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928088\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg\" alt=\"A stew made with bacon, onion, beans and avocado, served with a bowl of tostadas on the side.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1320\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-800x550.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1020x701.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-160x110.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-768x528.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Emmanuel_s-Dish-1536x1056.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Contestant Emmanuel Gonzalez Perez’s carne en su jugo is made with bacon, onions, avocado and beans. The dish is a tribute to the cook’s mother and his Guadalajaran roots. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the contestants are just so darn \u003ci>likable\u003c/i>. Even the show’s handful of goofy, lo-fi cooking competition gimmicks — like a button you press to force your opponent to stop what they’re doing to help you — wind up turning into sweet moments of cross-cultural connection instead of cutthroat contention.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928092\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1424px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13928092 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A headshot of a young Indonesian-Chinese immigrant with long dyed hair and an infectious smile.\" width=\"1424\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-scaled.jpg 1424w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-800x1438.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1020x1834.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-160x288.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-768x1381.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-854x1536.jpg 854w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Dru-1139x2048.jpg 1139w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1424px) 100vw, 1424px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dru Lay participated in the show’s first episode, representing his Indonesian and Chinese cultural identities. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of United We Dream)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As Dru Lay, a Chinese-Indonesian contestant in the first episode, puts it, “Being an immigrant almost automatically means we have a lot in common.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those of us who’ve grown accustomed to every reality TV series having a handful of token Black, brown and Asian contestants who all get eliminated halfway through the season, a show like \u003ci>No Borders, Just Flavors! \u003c/i>is a breath of fresh air. Nearly \u003ci>everyone\u003c/i> involved in the show is an immigrant or person of color — the contestants, host, director, producers and art directors. Some of the crew members are undocumented immigrants and DACA recipients themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That approach is reflected in the show’s intended audience, too: Host Morelys De Los Santos Urbano ends each episode by asking contestants if they have any words of wisdom they’d like to offer to the immigrant youth who might be watching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, the main point of the show, for United We Dream, seems to be to flip the script on the typical ways that immigrants — whether they’re documented or not — tend to get portrayed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“All too often, we hear immigrant stories as told by people other than immigrants themselves,” says Lee of United We Dream. “The immigration headlines are dominated by stories of struggle, suffering and survival. But there’s another side of the immigrant story that’s rarely represented in mainstream media: our joy, our courage and vision.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if these four snack-sized episodes serve as proof of concept that America is ready for a more immigrant-centric approach to food television? I’ll be ready to tune in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first episode of \u003c/i>\u003cem>‘No Borders, Just Flavors!\u003c/em>’ \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTahl_sx9fesEeRvIbZEESALwbdlBWs0U\">\u003ci>debuts on YouTube\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on April 20, at 5 p.m. PST. A new episode will go up online every Thursday night for the next three weeks after that.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "This Asian American Farmer Wants to Create a Home for Rare Heirloom Asian Vegetables",
"headTitle": "This Asian American Farmer Wants to Create a Home for Rare Heirloom Asian Vegetables | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>The Bay Area’s much-vaunted food scene depends mightily on California farmers — mainly for fresh ingredients, but also for inspiration. In fact, one farmer has inspired our local chefs so deeply that they are now rallying to return the favor: They want to give Kristyn Leach a home — and they want your help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An agricultural nomad for nearly all her adult life, Leach has spent two decades tending land up and down the West Coast, from Olympia, Washington to eastern Alameda County. Eventually, she settled into a pair of primary commitments: supplying a delightful range of chili peppers, perilla, zucchini, roselle and radishes for chef Dennis Lee’s Namu restaurant group, and coordinating \u003ca href=\"https://www.secondgenerationseeds.com/\">Second Generation Seeds\u003c/a>, a growers’ collaborative for preserving heirloom crops of the Asian diaspora.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nonprofit Community Alliance with Family Farmers named Leach 2021’s Ecological Farmer of the Year. People who know her well, however, don’t need awards to affirm Leach’s prominence as a bold visionary and botanical champion — and a foremost voice in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897752/radical-family-farms-asian-produce-taiwanese-identity-sonoma\">burgeoning movement of Asian American–run farms\u003c/a> that are shining a spotlight on previously hard-to-find Asian heritage vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg\" alt=\"Packets of Asian vegetable seeds decorated with illustrations of each corresponding vegetable: lady choi, kamo, suyo long, gaeguri chamoe, roselle and cha jogi.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1392\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-800x580.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1020x740.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-160x116.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-768x557.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1536x1114.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Second Generation Seeds preserves, adapts and breeds heirloom plants of the Asian diaspora, providing seeds for use by farmers and home gardeners. \u003ccite>(Alec MacDonald)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Steve Joo of Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/joodooboo/?hl=en\">Joodooboo\u003c/a>, a long-time friend of Leach, accompanied her on a seed-sourcing trip to South Korea in 2014 and has witnessed her conscientious approach to farming over the years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The thoughtfulness and awareness, curiosity and intelligence that she engages with all of her plants, and how that is evident in the produce that she grows, is a constant reminder to me,” says Joo, who credits her with elevating “the level of mindfulness I have when engaging with the cooking process.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach’s reputation is firmly rooted, but her work is not: She has always labored on temporary tenant plots, perpetually facing uncertainty about which patch of dirt she might find herself on next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then last year, a Sonoma farmer turned her on to a more permanent option. In Sebastopol, an eight-acre parcel had become available, and the buyer would have to put the property to agricultural use under the legal mandate of an easement. Leach cobbled together a whopping $1.5 million in integrated capital and, after navigating assorted procedural tangles, prepared for a monumental personal and professional transition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, that transition has now been put on hold. One of Leach’s funders recently decided to pull out, leaving her with a $200,000 hole to fill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This snag threatens to derail a set of ambitious and multifaceted plans that build on the cutting-edge work Leach has performed thus far. Second Generation Seeds stands poised for a robust expansion on the new site, where the breeding of scarce or neglected varietals — such as frog melons or native Korean soybeans — could establish a living seed bank while anchoring a nationwide effort to test seed resilience. Leach has hopes of welcoming stewards-in-residence to the property, providing these guests with an intensive year of training in an immersive version of the remote Seed Fellowships she currently holds online for growers across the country. She also aims to ramp up production of herbs and vegetables, relying on a technique called natural farming that surpasses the environmental standards of organic certification. As she has in the past, she intends to regularly donate harvests to places like the Korean American Coalition to End Domestic Abuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach calls the endeavor the Gohyang Seed Campus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg\" alt=\"A line of traditional Korean drummers perform a ceremony in an open field.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach (center) regularly welcomes community members onto her farm plots to celebrate Chuseok, a Korean harvest festival. \u003ccite>(Dan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We called it ‘Gohyang’ because that’s the Korean word for home and hometown,” says Leach, who was born in Daegu, South Korea, before joining an adoptive family on Long Island when she was an infant. She explains that with “an emo subtext,” the name “captures a sense of longing and a sense of return.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the tenant plots she’s farmed, Leach has made a habit out of hosting the fall festival of Chuseok, when Koreans come back to their gohyang for family memorials and harvest feasts. Marveling at how community members have so enthusiastically embraced her gatherings as a proxy for ancestral pilgrimage, she says, “That’s probably one of the more meaningful accomplishments of my life: to be able to have provided a space that people feel that connected to.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If granted the opportunity to launch the Gohyang Seed Campus, Leach wants to continue providing such space for Chuseok and other community events. The welcome mat would always be out at her home — in a literal sense, as the property is where she would reside with her wife and two-year-old daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928040\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928040\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer Kristyn Leach holds her two-year-old daughter against a tree-lined backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach and her daughter share a tender moment. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13897752,arts_13925835,arts_13920714']\u003c/span>They may get the chance to move in after all, thanks to Leach’s culinary buddies, who have launched \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus\">an online fundraiser to plug that $200,000 hole\u003c/a>. The campaign has until May 12 to reach its target. To incentivize large contributions, a group of distinguished chefs and industry professionals has put forth a sizable list of donor perks, such as an edible garden consultation from Chez Panisse’s Spencer Huey, a cooking class with Henry Hsu of Oakland-based pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> and a private dinner prepared by renowned restaurateurs Russell Moore (Camino) and Kelsie Kerr (Standard Fare).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moore will also whip up appetizers for \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">a fundraising party on Sunday, April 23, at Sister in Oakland\u003c/a>. For a $200 donation, anyone can attend, although space is limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joodooboo’s Joo is pitching in both a perk — tofu and banchan subscriptions from his shop — as well as additional appetizers for the party at Sister. Asked why people should join him in backing the cause, he says, “Kristyn Leach is someone who represents the best of who we are, and for someone like that, and a project that she’s dedicating her life to, she deserves some support.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The kick-off fundraising party for Kristyn Leach’s Gohyang Seed Campus takes place on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">\u003ci>Sunday, April 23\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, from 5–7 p.m. at Sister (3308 Grand Ave.) in Oakland. The deadline for the overall \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus?ref=ab_0CLeH8_ab_0c2TtlNVxis0c2TtlNVxis\">\u003ci>fundraising campaign\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is May 12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Bay Area’s much-vaunted food scene depends mightily on California farmers — mainly for fresh ingredients, but also for inspiration. In fact, one farmer has inspired our local chefs so deeply that they are now rallying to return the favor: They want to give Kristyn Leach a home — and they want your help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An agricultural nomad for nearly all her adult life, Leach has spent two decades tending land up and down the West Coast, from Olympia, Washington to eastern Alameda County. Eventually, she settled into a pair of primary commitments: supplying a delightful range of chili peppers, perilla, zucchini, roselle and radishes for chef Dennis Lee’s Namu restaurant group, and coordinating \u003ca href=\"https://www.secondgenerationseeds.com/\">Second Generation Seeds\u003c/a>, a growers’ collaborative for preserving heirloom crops of the Asian diaspora.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nonprofit Community Alliance with Family Farmers named Leach 2021’s Ecological Farmer of the Year. People who know her well, however, don’t need awards to affirm Leach’s prominence as a bold visionary and botanical champion — and a foremost voice in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13897752/radical-family-farms-asian-produce-taiwanese-identity-sonoma\">burgeoning movement of Asian American–run farms\u003c/a> that are shining a spotlight on previously hard-to-find Asian heritage vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928031\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg\" alt=\"Packets of Asian vegetable seeds decorated with illustrations of each corresponding vegetable: lady choi, kamo, suyo long, gaeguri chamoe, roselle and cha jogi.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1392\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-800x580.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1020x740.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-160x116.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-768x557.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Second-Generation-Seed-packages-Photo-by-Alec-MacDonald-1536x1114.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Second Generation Seeds preserves, adapts and breeds heirloom plants of the Asian diaspora, providing seeds for use by farmers and home gardeners. \u003ccite>(Alec MacDonald)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Steve Joo of Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/joodooboo/?hl=en\">Joodooboo\u003c/a>, a long-time friend of Leach, accompanied her on a seed-sourcing trip to South Korea in 2014 and has witnessed her conscientious approach to farming over the years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The thoughtfulness and awareness, curiosity and intelligence that she engages with all of her plants, and how that is evident in the produce that she grows, is a constant reminder to me,” says Joo, who credits her with elevating “the level of mindfulness I have when engaging with the cooking process.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach’s reputation is firmly rooted, but her work is not: She has always labored on temporary tenant plots, perpetually facing uncertainty about which patch of dirt she might find herself on next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then last year, a Sonoma farmer turned her on to a more permanent option. In Sebastopol, an eight-acre parcel had become available, and the buyer would have to put the property to agricultural use under the legal mandate of an easement. Leach cobbled together a whopping $1.5 million in integrated capital and, after navigating assorted procedural tangles, prepared for a monumental personal and professional transition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, that transition has now been put on hold. One of Leach’s funders recently decided to pull out, leaving her with a $200,000 hole to fill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This snag threatens to derail a set of ambitious and multifaceted plans that build on the cutting-edge work Leach has performed thus far. Second Generation Seeds stands poised for a robust expansion on the new site, where the breeding of scarce or neglected varietals — such as frog melons or native Korean soybeans — could establish a living seed bank while anchoring a nationwide effort to test seed resilience. Leach has hopes of welcoming stewards-in-residence to the property, providing these guests with an intensive year of training in an immersive version of the remote Seed Fellowships she currently holds online for growers across the country. She also aims to ramp up production of herbs and vegetables, relying on a technique called natural farming that surpasses the environmental standards of organic certification. As she has in the past, she intends to regularly donate harvests to places like the Korean American Coalition to End Domestic Abuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leach calls the endeavor the Gohyang Seed Campus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg\" alt=\"A line of traditional Korean drummers perform a ceremony in an open field.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Chuseok-2019-Winters-CA-Photo-by-Dan-Lee-1536x1025.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach (center) regularly welcomes community members onto her farm plots to celebrate Chuseok, a Korean harvest festival. \u003ccite>(Dan Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We called it ‘Gohyang’ because that’s the Korean word for home and hometown,” says Leach, who was born in Daegu, South Korea, before joining an adoptive family on Long Island when she was an infant. She explains that with “an emo subtext,” the name “captures a sense of longing and a sense of return.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the tenant plots she’s farmed, Leach has made a habit out of hosting the fall festival of Chuseok, when Koreans come back to their gohyang for family memorials and harvest feasts. Marveling at how community members have so enthusiastically embraced her gatherings as a proxy for ancestral pilgrimage, she says, “That’s probably one of the more meaningful accomplishments of my life: to be able to have provided a space that people feel that connected to.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If granted the opportunity to launch the Gohyang Seed Campus, Leach wants to continue providing such space for Chuseok and other community events. The welcome mat would always be out at her home — in a literal sense, as the property is where she would reside with her wife and two-year-old daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13928040\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13928040\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer Kristyn Leach holds her two-year-old daughter against a tree-lined backdrop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/Kristyn-Leach-and-daughter-Courtesy-Kristyn-Leach-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leach and her daughter share a tender moment. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>They may get the chance to move in after all, thanks to Leach’s culinary buddies, who have launched \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus\">an online fundraiser to plug that $200,000 hole\u003c/a>. The campaign has until May 12 to reach its target. To incentivize large contributions, a group of distinguished chefs and industry professionals has put forth a sizable list of donor perks, such as an edible garden consultation from Chez Panisse’s Spencer Huey, a cooking class with Henry Hsu of Oakland-based pop-up \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/oramasamadumplings/?hl=en\">Oramasama Dumplings\u003c/a> and a private dinner prepared by renowned restaurateurs Russell Moore (Camino) and Kelsie Kerr (Standard Fare).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moore will also whip up appetizers for \u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">a fundraising party on Sunday, April 23, at Sister in Oakland\u003c/a>. For a $200 donation, anyone can attend, although space is limited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joodooboo’s Joo is pitching in both a perk — tofu and banchan subscriptions from his shop — as well as additional appetizers for the party at Sister. Asked why people should join him in backing the cause, he says, “Kristyn Leach is someone who represents the best of who we are, and for someone like that, and a project that she’s dedicating her life to, she deserves some support.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The kick-off fundraising party for Kristyn Leach’s Gohyang Seed Campus takes place on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/perks/bRW91?ref=ab_9jJOFV3llRF9jJOFV3llRF\">\u003ci>Sunday, April 23\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, from 5–7 p.m. at Sister (3308 Grand Ave.) in Oakland. The deadline for the overall \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://fundrazr.com/GohyangSeedCampus?ref=ab_0CLeH8_ab_0c2TtlNVxis0c2TtlNVxis\">\u003ci>fundraising campaign\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> is May 12.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "davey-jones-deli-sandwiches-sausalito-hella-hungry",
"title": "Davey Jones Deli is Sausalito’s Hidden Sandwich Paradise",
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"headTitle": "Davey Jones Deli is Sausalito’s Hidden Sandwich Paradise | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a certain feeling of escape whenever I cross the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge into the more affluent areas of the North Bay, where ocean views extend peacefully from the base of Mount Tamalpais towards the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco’s glittered skyline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet behind every Instagram-worthy glamour shot in these high-end destinations, there’s also a blue-collar grit: sailors, dock workers, immigrants, farm laborers, wanderers and the general working class who’ve taken refuge away from the larger nearby cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davey Jones Deli is an example of that — an old-school sandwich shop inside a Sausalito liquor store on the literal edge of land, founded by a man who lives on a boat. It’s where the “waterfront people” go to eat, stock up on fishing supplies and pick up their favorite alcohols. It’s not exactly where you’d expect to find some of the North Bay’s best sandos. But it’s where X marks the spot, and for much of the Bay Area, this quirky nautical eatery is only a short drive (or ferry ride) away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The veteran sandwich maker and owner, David “Davey Jones” Johnson, is more seaman than landwalker, and perhaps the friendliest pirate soul you’ll ever meet. (He might even draw you a map of the area and label it a “treasure map,” divulging his favorite locations for local walks with ocean views).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a part of the waterfront, the working waterfront,” he says. “People live on boats and work with their hands. And then there’s the wealth of the hills. But this is part of the waterfront here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the shop you can explore crab traps, octopus hooks, snatch swivels, rope and an array of other fishermen’s equipment while waiting to load up on a barbecue brisket sandwich or veggie delight stuffed between sourdough. Afterward, it’s worth wandering around the surrounding area to enjoy the nearby vistas for an ideal lunch. Trust me, even if the treasure isn’t the kind that pirates bury, those views are worth the trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927895\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927895\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg\" alt=\"A cook prepares a sandwich in a deli kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1020x638.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1536x960.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Johnson, the owner of Davey Jones Deli, prepares a sandwich. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here’s the skinny on how this sailor built a paradise for sandwich lovers in an unlikely hideout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: So Davey Jones isn’t your name, huh? Where did that come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>David Johnson:\u003c/b> Growing up I was David. Dave sounded too much like a farmer from Iowa, where I grew up. After college, I spent four years in South Africa, working. My partner was a fisherman, I was a sailor. We were running a bar in a jungle. He asked me if I’d met Davey Jones. I just said yeah, that I did. So everyone started calling me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You ran a bar in a jungle?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, it was wild. My buddy was building a community and he wanted to create something for backpackers. I just wanted to hang around. We helped out by taking the tourist money and giving it back to the community. I imported my food and sold a lot of local fish. We had a little fish market with peanuts and fruits and things. Off the grid. Heated our own water. We had a hundred people using toilets and showers. We’d compost everything and work with the locals and became self-sustainable. We talk about organic food in the U.S.? That was no comparison. That experience taught me about DIY, build it yourself. Use what you got. The deli is like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927899\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927899 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"an employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey before the lunch hour rush arrives. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve been operating Davey Jones Deli for 13 years now — how did that happen? How did you end up in Sausalito? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I kept going back to boating, tried to live in New Orleans, Milwaukee, always on a boat in places that had water. The Great Lakes. All up and down the East Coast. Prince Edward Islands. Boston, Philly, Charleston. The great East Coast cities by the sea. At one point, in 2009, I was working on a yacht in Yoruba. I was on Facebook and got connected to my best friend from high school, who’s now my wife. She was living on a houseboat in Sausalito. I’d never considered it and had never been [to San Francisco]. I said, why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, I had no idea where I was. I didn’t know Sausalito was a rich city. I just knew there were farms, and I used that to my advantage. I found a reasonable houseboat situation, and my plan was to just sell soup to my neighbors, which I did for a while. [At the time] I would just be breezing through the bait shop to buy firewood, and the owner approached me to run his deli one day. I never noticed it before, to be honest; the lights were always off. It was covered in grease, and I just laughed it off and didn’t take it seriously. But after thinking about it, I went back. I decided to run it my own way, with poetic license. I was a chef at the time. My personal clients were not happy since they thought it was gross. They thought I’d spend a couple of years there and attract investors and just move on, but it has been so comfortable and I’ve been here ever since. I walk to work and it’s a super diverse community — one of the most racially diverse spots in southern Marin. I like that East Coast bodega vibe. It’s loud, fun, unlikely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your passion for food making begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started while working on educational tall ships. There’s one in Sausalito called the Matthew Turner. We take students and scientists out. I actually have a degree in Environmental Science, and I wanted to be a captain at one point. But this one time, we had a terrible cook, and it just destroyed our bodies (laughs). I took over and served some healthier organic foods and inadvertently became a sea cook. It’s tricky with our budget — there isn’t much money in nonprofit, educational tall ships. A lot of wheeling and dealing in port towns. You get creative — meeting fishermen, getting clammers and steamers by trades, finding unlikely food places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927898\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13927898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg\" alt='a handdrawn \"treasure map\" with local sites to visit' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson’s hand-drawn ‘treasure map.’ \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you have any cooking experience before that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I cooked my way through college. I didn’t just work anywhere. I was interested in particular scenes and worked my way through some cool restaurants. I picked up knife skills, things like that. I had \u003ci>The Joy of Cooking\u003c/i> memorized by the time I was on the sea. I started working at a vegetarian restaurant back then near the university. Imagine quinoa in Iowa in ‘98. Seitan burritos. Things like that. It’s not like today. We were next to a university, and here I am in the courtyard serving shiitake corn soup and people are asking me about sodium. We had some really challenging customers. But you take that to sea. You can’t have everything you want. And food should make you feel well emotionally, spiritually, economically, physically — you shouldn’t live on a militant diet forever. Chicken dumplings will get you right, know what I mean?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927942\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A middle-aged woman in glasses stands behind sa deli counter, her blonde hair tied in a bun.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A deli employee is ready take down a sandwich order. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We’re here to nourish people and give. It’s all about giving. Whoever is trying to prove themselves with food, I’m not interested. My 75-year-old neighbor will roast the hell out of a chicken, that’s what I’m into. The best food is at home, hands down. I only go to restaurants when I’m lazy or for social reasons, maybe the food makes me feel good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> — that’s a restaurant here in Sausalito — it makes me feel amazing. It’s sustainable with crazy views, but don’t go in the middle of a rush. Hit that up in the side hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have creatively named sandwiches on \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/menu\">\u003cb>your menu\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> with a notable array of options — from the housemade hummus in the “Vulcan Wrap” to the veggielicious “Kerouwhack” or the BBQ brisket and bacon in the “Mr. L.” Where do these original names and ideas come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hate sandwiches named after famous people like athletes (laughs). These are named after staff workers and former employees. Each one reminds me of them. Mr. L was a staff member here, who was re-entering society. He would just make sandwiches. Kerouwahck came from a fun guy, Pinky — he wanted to become a vegetarian, so he made that [sandwich] as a savory and sweet affair. These workers pretty much invented the sandwiches themselves using my kits. Some of them were jokes. A guy came in the door once and stared at all the ingredients on the menu for about 10 minutes, then ordered his sandwich. We named it after him, and will name them [after customers] if they’re fucking clever. [That particular customer] just looked like someone’s uncle, so that’s what we named it “Uncle’s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only have two rules here. Rule #1: no fire, no fryer. Rule #2: no additives or preservatives. That’s why we’re not in the salami game. I like it, but it’s not very healthy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927900\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg\" alt=\"David Johnson prepares a vegan wrap in his deli's kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson prepares a vegan ‘Vulcan Wrap,’ the most popular item on the menu. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco is famous for its sourdough loaves. Where does Davey Jones get bread from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our local bakery is \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/san-rafael-bakery-celebrates-100-years-of-making-sourdough/\">Bordenave [a 105-year-old bakery in San Rafael]\u003c/a>. Their bread is local; they’re our neighbors. Sourdough rolls are hard, and if we’re putting 16 ingredients in, it just squishes out. We rip most of the bread out of the middle to add more spinach, sprouts, cucumbers, nutrients. We can stuff delicious veggies over the bread. [Bread is] just a wrapper. The business of sandwiches is an expression of self. Dr. Jones is a bit different — we don’t do sandwiches at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s Dr. Jones?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s private catering I do on beaches, barbecues on the waterfront or on boats, picnics on Angel Island, that sort of stuff. I do it all around Sonoma, Napa — outdoor cooking. The deli can only pay my bills, and I like to travel internationally, so I like to cater. We have a website called \u003ca href=\"https://www.portandprovisions.com/\">Port and Provisions\u003c/a> that just highlights our catering cohort, nothing serious. We don’t answer emails or phones. I just like being an outdoor chef. It’s not a company, just me and some chef friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"David Johnson\"]“One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, ‘Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.’ When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen.”[/pullquote]\u003cb>What’s the secret for making a perfect Bay Area sandwich?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, here’s a secret: Sandwiches are not really a passion of mine. I make them a lot when I travel, especially at my mom’s house. It’s lazy food. There are sandwich aficionados on Instagram, and I love that they love it that much. But I don’t go out of my way for a sandwich. When I was trying to figure out what the deli was, I was doing smoothies, porridge, quiche, lasagnas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, “Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.” When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen. At that point, I started to wonder about the world’s best sandwiches: the Reuben, Cuban, so on. I started out making the famous ones. I got busier and had too many ingredients so had to pare it down. We have no fire, no frying, no additives here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927897 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg\" alt=\"an array of fishermen's supplies available inside a liquor store in Sausalito\" width=\"720\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg 720w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An array of fishermen’s supplies are available inside New Bait Shop Market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13926749,arts_13909648,arts_13899700']\u003c/span>It’s not really about the sandwiches; I’m just a pretty good cook, and I’m nice to my people, and that is more magic than anything. I thought I might work in environmental remediation or environmental justice at one point but got no responses to any of the several hundred applications I sent out. It was like a “whoops” when I became a chef. It’s been comfy though — no commute, space for my catering. [The food industry] can be very brutal, so I have to also take care of myself. Watching those rotator cuffs (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immigrants come here and build a restaurant or work in kitchens, and we [Americans] tell our kids that it’s not honorable to sweep or mop — that being in food isn’t honorable. But my uncle once told me that the only honorable work on this planet is food — farming — and it’s true. They’re the only real producers. Everyone else is just taking and being a user. I don’t think there’s any honor in the craft of charging subscription fees (laughs). I’d just like people to honor chefs and the kitchen rather than hoping kids can do something better. Food is our first basic need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-12127869 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> is located inside New Bait Shop Market (1 Gate 6 Rd., Sausalito). The deli is open daily from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (or until sold out). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a certain feeling of escape whenever I cross the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge into the more affluent areas of the North Bay, where ocean views extend peacefully from the base of Mount Tamalpais towards the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco’s glittered skyline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet behind every Instagram-worthy glamour shot in these high-end destinations, there’s also a blue-collar grit: sailors, dock workers, immigrants, farm laborers, wanderers and the general working class who’ve taken refuge away from the larger nearby cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Davey Jones Deli is an example of that — an old-school sandwich shop inside a Sausalito liquor store on the literal edge of land, founded by a man who lives on a boat. It’s where the “waterfront people” go to eat, stock up on fishing supplies and pick up their favorite alcohols. It’s not exactly where you’d expect to find some of the North Bay’s best sandos. But it’s where X marks the spot, and for much of the Bay Area, this quirky nautical eatery is only a short drive (or ferry ride) away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The veteran sandwich maker and owner, David “Davey Jones” Johnson, is more seaman than landwalker, and perhaps the friendliest pirate soul you’ll ever meet. (He might even draw you a map of the area and label it a “treasure map,” divulging his favorite locations for local walks with ocean views).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a part of the waterfront, the working waterfront,” he says. “People live on boats and work with their hands. And then there’s the wealth of the hills. But this is part of the waterfront here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the shop you can explore crab traps, octopus hooks, snatch swivels, rope and an array of other fishermen’s equipment while waiting to load up on a barbecue brisket sandwich or veggie delight stuffed between sourdough. Afterward, it’s worth wandering around the surrounding area to enjoy the nearby vistas for an ideal lunch. Trust me, even if the treasure isn’t the kind that pirates bury, those views are worth the trip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927895\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927895\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg\" alt=\"A cook prepares a sandwich in a deli kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-800x500.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1020x638.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-160x100.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-768x480.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_david_johnson_crop-1536x960.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">David Johnson, the owner of Davey Jones Deli, prepares a sandwich. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Here’s the skinny on how this sailor built a paradise for sandwich lovers in an unlikely hideout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: So Davey Jones isn’t your name, huh? Where did that come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>David Johnson:\u003c/b> Growing up I was David. Dave sounded too much like a farmer from Iowa, where I grew up. After college, I spent four years in South Africa, working. My partner was a fisherman, I was a sailor. We were running a bar in a jungle. He asked me if I’d met Davey Jones. I just said yeah, that I did. So everyone started calling me that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You ran a bar in a jungle?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, it was wild. My buddy was building a community and he wanted to create something for backpackers. I just wanted to hang around. We helped out by taking the tourist money and giving it back to the community. I imported my food and sold a lot of local fish. We had a little fish market with peanuts and fruits and things. Off the grid. Heated our own water. We had a hundred people using toilets and showers. We’d compost everything and work with the locals and became self-sustainable. We talk about organic food in the U.S.? That was no comparison. That experience taught me about DIY, build it yourself. Use what you got. The deli is like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927899\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927899 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"an employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_turkey-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An employee at Davey Jones Deli prepares a whole roasted turkey before the lunch hour rush arrives. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’ve been operating Davey Jones Deli for 13 years now — how did that happen? How did you end up in Sausalito? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I kept going back to boating, tried to live in New Orleans, Milwaukee, always on a boat in places that had water. The Great Lakes. All up and down the East Coast. Prince Edward Islands. Boston, Philly, Charleston. The great East Coast cities by the sea. At one point, in 2009, I was working on a yacht in Yoruba. I was on Facebook and got connected to my best friend from high school, who’s now my wife. She was living on a houseboat in Sausalito. I’d never considered it and had never been [to San Francisco]. I said, why not?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, I had no idea where I was. I didn’t know Sausalito was a rich city. I just knew there were farms, and I used that to my advantage. I found a reasonable houseboat situation, and my plan was to just sell soup to my neighbors, which I did for a while. [At the time] I would just be breezing through the bait shop to buy firewood, and the owner approached me to run his deli one day. I never noticed it before, to be honest; the lights were always off. It was covered in grease, and I just laughed it off and didn’t take it seriously. But after thinking about it, I went back. I decided to run it my own way, with poetic license. I was a chef at the time. My personal clients were not happy since they thought it was gross. They thought I’d spend a couple of years there and attract investors and just move on, but it has been so comfortable and I’ve been here ever since. I walk to work and it’s a super diverse community — one of the most racially diverse spots in southern Marin. I like that East Coast bodega vibe. It’s loud, fun, unlikely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>When did your passion for food making begin?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It started while working on educational tall ships. There’s one in Sausalito called the Matthew Turner. We take students and scientists out. I actually have a degree in Environmental Science, and I wanted to be a captain at one point. But this one time, we had a terrible cook, and it just destroyed our bodies (laughs). I took over and served some healthier organic foods and inadvertently became a sea cook. It’s tricky with our budget — there isn’t much money in nonprofit, educational tall ships. A lot of wheeling and dealing in port towns. You get creative — meeting fishermen, getting clammers and steamers by trades, finding unlikely food places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927898\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13927898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg\" alt='a handdrawn \"treasure map\" with local sites to visit' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_map.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson’s hand-drawn ‘treasure map.’ \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Did you have any cooking experience before that?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I cooked my way through college. I didn’t just work anywhere. I was interested in particular scenes and worked my way through some cool restaurants. I picked up knife skills, things like that. I had \u003ci>The Joy of Cooking\u003c/i> memorized by the time I was on the sea. I started working at a vegetarian restaurant back then near the university. Imagine quinoa in Iowa in ‘98. Seitan burritos. Things like that. It’s not like today. We were next to a university, and here I am in the courtyard serving shiitake corn soup and people are asking me about sodium. We had some really challenging customers. But you take that to sea. You can’t have everything you want. And food should make you feel well emotionally, spiritually, economically, physically — you shouldn’t live on a militant diet forever. Chicken dumplings will get you right, know what I mean?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927942\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927942\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A middle-aged woman in glasses stands behind sa deli counter, her blonde hair tied in a bun.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey-jones_worker-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A deli employee is ready take down a sandwich order. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We’re here to nourish people and give. It’s all about giving. Whoever is trying to prove themselves with food, I’m not interested. My 75-year-old neighbor will roast the hell out of a chicken, that’s what I’m into. The best food is at home, hands down. I only go to restaurants when I’m lazy or for social reasons, maybe the food makes me feel good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.331fish.com/\">Fish\u003c/a> — that’s a restaurant here in Sausalito — it makes me feel amazing. It’s sustainable with crazy views, but don’t go in the middle of a rush. Hit that up in the side hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You have creatively named sandwiches on \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/menu\">\u003cb>your menu\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> with a notable array of options — from the housemade hummus in the “Vulcan Wrap” to the veggielicious “Kerouwhack” or the BBQ brisket and bacon in the “Mr. L.” Where do these original names and ideas come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hate sandwiches named after famous people like athletes (laughs). These are named after staff workers and former employees. Each one reminds me of them. Mr. L was a staff member here, who was re-entering society. He would just make sandwiches. Kerouwahck came from a fun guy, Pinky — he wanted to become a vegetarian, so he made that [sandwich] as a savory and sweet affair. These workers pretty much invented the sandwiches themselves using my kits. Some of them were jokes. A guy came in the door once and stared at all the ingredients on the menu for about 10 minutes, then ordered his sandwich. We named it after him, and will name them [after customers] if they’re fucking clever. [That particular customer] just looked like someone’s uncle, so that’s what we named it “Uncle’s.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only have two rules here. Rule #1: no fire, no fryer. Rule #2: no additives or preservatives. That’s why we’re not in the salami game. I like it, but it’s not very healthy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927900\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg\" alt=\"David Johnson prepares a vegan wrap in his deli's kitchen\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_wrap-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Johnson prepares a vegan ‘Vulcan Wrap,’ the most popular item on the menu. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>San Francisco is famous for its sourdough loaves. Where does Davey Jones get bread from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our local bakery is \u003ca href=\"https://www.cbsnews.com/sanfrancisco/news/san-rafael-bakery-celebrates-100-years-of-making-sourdough/\">Bordenave [a 105-year-old bakery in San Rafael]\u003c/a>. Their bread is local; they’re our neighbors. Sourdough rolls are hard, and if we’re putting 16 ingredients in, it just squishes out. We rip most of the bread out of the middle to add more spinach, sprouts, cucumbers, nutrients. We can stuff delicious veggies over the bread. [Bread is] just a wrapper. The business of sandwiches is an expression of self. Dr. Jones is a bit different — we don’t do sandwiches at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s Dr. Jones?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s private catering I do on beaches, barbecues on the waterfront or on boats, picnics on Angel Island, that sort of stuff. I do it all around Sonoma, Napa — outdoor cooking. The deli can only pay my bills, and I like to travel internationally, so I like to cater. We have a website called \u003ca href=\"https://www.portandprovisions.com/\">Port and Provisions\u003c/a> that just highlights our catering cohort, nothing serious. We don’t answer emails or phones. I just like being an outdoor chef. It’s not a company, just me and some chef friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, ‘Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.’ When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the secret for making a perfect Bay Area sandwich?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, here’s a secret: Sandwiches are not really a passion of mine. I make them a lot when I travel, especially at my mom’s house. It’s lazy food. There are sandwich aficionados on Instagram, and I love that they love it that much. But I don’t go out of my way for a sandwich. When I was trying to figure out what the deli was, I was doing smoothies, porridge, quiche, lasagnas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One night, I was working late and the sandwich gods whispered in my ear and said, “Bro, you’re a sandwich deli.” When the sandwich gods speak directly to you, you listen. At that point, I started to wonder about the world’s best sandwiches: the Reuben, Cuban, so on. I started out making the famous ones. I got busier and had too many ingredients so had to pare it down. We have no fire, no frying, no additives here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13927897 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg\" alt=\"an array of fishermen's supplies available inside a liquor store in Sausalito\" width=\"720\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720.jpg 720w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/davey_jones_fishing_720-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An array of fishermen’s supplies are available inside New Bait Shop Market. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>It’s not really about the sandwiches; I’m just a pretty good cook, and I’m nice to my people, and that is more magic than anything. I thought I might work in environmental remediation or environmental justice at one point but got no responses to any of the several hundred applications I sent out. It was like a “whoops” when I became a chef. It’s been comfy though — no commute, space for my catering. [The food industry] can be very brutal, so I have to also take care of myself. Watching those rotator cuffs (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immigrants come here and build a restaurant or work in kitchens, and we [Americans] tell our kids that it’s not honorable to sweep or mop — that being in food isn’t honorable. But my uncle once told me that the only honorable work on this planet is food — farming — and it’s true. They’re the only real producers. Everyone else is just taking and being a user. I don’t think there’s any honor in the craft of charging subscription fees (laughs). I’d just like people to honor chefs and the kitchen rather than hoping kids can do something better. Food is our first basic need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-12127869 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.daveyjonesdeli.com/\">Davey Jones Deli\u003c/a> is located inside New Bait Shop Market (1 Gate 6 Rd., Sausalito). The deli is open daily from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (or until sold out). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Flint’s Barbecue Reopens for a One-Day Pop-up in Berkeley",
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"content": "\u003cp>Most of the time, no one really remembers a restaurant 10 or 20 years after it closes. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">a Bay Area legend\u003c/a> in the art of finger-licking sauce and slow-smoked meats, is the exception that proves the rule: Even though the restaurant’s heyday was back in the 1970s and ’80s, old-timers in Oakland will \u003ci>still\u003c/i> talk your head off about that ’cue to this very day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That legacy is why folks were so excited when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of Flint’s founder Willie Flintroy, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">revived the family business\u003c/a> back in 2019, albeit mostly in the form of occasional pop-ups. And it’s why each of those pop-ups has been a sold-out, line-around-the-block affair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13894423,arts_13915387']\u003c/span>Mark April 30 on your calendar, then, if you’re a hardcore Flint’s head — or if you just want to see what your OG uncle from around the block has been making such a fuss about. That’s when Flint’s will hold its spring pop-up event in Berkeley. It’ll be the first time its barbecue has been available for purchase by the general public in the past seven months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Martin says she’s thinking about limiting the pop-up to a once-a-year tradition. These days, most of her business comes from catering and private events, and she doesn’t want the pop-ups to detract from her search for a more permanent brick-and-mortar home for Flint’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13896599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin of Flint's Barbecue at DeFremery Park in West Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin of Flint’s Barbecue. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That search has mostly been a disappointment. Martin’s original plan, to open in the original West Oakland Flint’s location on San Pablo Avenue, fell through. Then, the restaurant had a short-lived stint at a ghost kitchen facility in North Oakland. Apart from that, she’s looked at a string of locations that are way too expensive for her and her sisters to afford. “I’m beginning to get discouraged,” Martin says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s reached the point now where Martin has resigned herself to the likelihood that if Flint’s reopens, it’ll have to be far outside of Oakland. The city of Concord has reached out to her about relocating Flint’s to there. The city of Fairfield has reached out. Thus far, however, Martin says she hasn’t had any offer of assistance from the city of Oakland or any of its local community organizations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m surprised because everybody loves Flint’s so much — but I haven’t heard from any of the higher-ups,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coarse-ground links are one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The April 30 pop-up will be held at the barbecue spot’s current commercial kitchen location on Shattuck Avenue. Each $42.50 plate will come with ribs, chicken, links, a separate plate of sides and a drink. The new downtown Berkeley kitchen doesn’t have any place for people to dine in, but Martin says she’s had customers walk their food over to the UC Berkeley campus to enjoy a picnic-style barbecue feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers looking to stock up on the famous Flint’s barbecue sauce will have to be patient. Martin says she usually has a separate sauce pop-up just before the winter holidays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003ci>Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will pop up at 2428 Shattuck Ave. in Berkeley on Sun., April 30, 1–5 p.m. Customers must \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://flintsbarbecuepopups.simpletix.com/\">\u003ci>buy tickets in advance\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, with pickup times available at 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m. Ticket sales end on April 16.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Most of the time, no one really remembers a restaurant 10 or 20 years after it closes. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">a Bay Area legend\u003c/a> in the art of finger-licking sauce and slow-smoked meats, is the exception that proves the rule: Even though the restaurant’s heyday was back in the 1970s and ’80s, old-timers in Oakland will \u003ci>still\u003c/i> talk your head off about that ’cue to this very day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That legacy is why folks were so excited when Crystal Martin, the granddaughter of Flint’s founder Willie Flintroy, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13894423/flints-an-icon-of-oakland-barbecue-plots-return-to-original-location\">revived the family business\u003c/a> back in 2019, albeit mostly in the form of occasional pop-ups. And it’s why each of those pop-ups has been a sold-out, line-around-the-block affair.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Mark April 30 on your calendar, then, if you’re a hardcore Flint’s head — or if you just want to see what your OG uncle from around the block has been making such a fuss about. That’s when Flint’s will hold its spring pop-up event in Berkeley. It’ll be the first time its barbecue has been available for purchase by the general public in the past seven months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, Martin says she’s thinking about limiting the pop-up to a once-a-year tradition. These days, most of her business comes from catering and private events, and she doesn’t want the pop-ups to detract from her search for a more permanent brick-and-mortar home for Flint’s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13896599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13896599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg\" alt=\"Crystal Martin of Flint's Barbecue at DeFremery Park in West Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/04/Image-from-iOS-31-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Martin of Flint’s Barbecue. \u003ccite>(Gabe Meline/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That search has mostly been a disappointment. Martin’s original plan, to open in the original West Oakland Flint’s location on San Pablo Avenue, fell through. Then, the restaurant had a short-lived stint at a ghost kitchen facility in North Oakland. Apart from that, she’s looked at a string of locations that are way too expensive for her and her sisters to afford. “I’m beginning to get discouraged,” Martin says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s reached the point now where Martin has resigned herself to the likelihood that if Flint’s reopens, it’ll have to be far outside of Oakland. The city of Concord has reached out to her about relocating Flint’s to there. The city of Fairfield has reached out. Thus far, however, Martin says she hasn’t had any offer of assistance from the city of Oakland or any of its local community organizations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m surprised because everybody loves Flint’s so much — but I haven’t heard from any of the higher-ups,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13894446\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13894446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg\" alt=\"Two trays full of Flint's house-made links.\" width=\"800\" height=\"646\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-160x129.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/03/FlintSlinks.Crop_-768x620.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coarse-ground links are one of Flint’s signature items. \u003ccite>(Flint's Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The April 30 pop-up will be held at the barbecue spot’s current commercial kitchen location on Shattuck Avenue. Each $42.50 plate will come with ribs, chicken, links, a separate plate of sides and a drink. The new downtown Berkeley kitchen doesn’t have any place for people to dine in, but Martin says she’s had customers walk their food over to the UC Berkeley campus to enjoy a picnic-style barbecue feast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers looking to stock up on the famous Flint’s barbecue sauce will have to be patient. Martin says she usually has a separate sauce pop-up just before the winter holidays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flintsbarbecue/\">\u003ci>Flint’s Barbecue\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> will pop up at 2428 Shattuck Ave. in Berkeley on Sun., April 30, 1–5 p.m. Customers must \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://flintsbarbecuepopups.simpletix.com/\">\u003ci>buy tickets in advance\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, with pickup times available at 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m. Ticket sales end on April 16.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "After Decades of Invisibility, Khmer Cuisine Is Primed to Rise in the Bay",
"headTitle": "After Decades of Invisibility, Khmer Cuisine Is Primed to Rise in the Bay | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap]’m seated inside Phở de Nguyen, a neon-bathed Vietnamese restaurant in downtown San Bruno, on a chilly winter night. I came to get warmed up — but not by the delicious phở the restaurant is known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, I’m here for something less familiar and harder to find in the Bay Area: homestyle Cambodian food. I’d admittedly never eaten any before that point. Luckily, Mo Seaty, a first-generation Cambodian American from East Oakland and my homie, smoothly places our order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s salaw machu kreung, a lemongrass-seasoned beef and tripe soup with eggplant. Amok trei, one of Cambodia’s national dishes, consists of salmon seasoned with kroeung — a spice and herb paste made with makrut lime leaves, galanga and turmeric — then steamed in banana leaves. Prahok ktiss is simmered minced pork mixed with chili peppers, coconut milk and fermented fish sauce. And that’s all before a platter of freshwater clams, directly sourced from the delta region of Stockton, is jigsawed onto our already crowded table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can’t find this anywhere,” says Sitha Yim, the owner of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sithas_authentic_khmer_food/?hl=en\">Sitha’s Khmerkitchen\u003c/a>, a Cambodian pop-up that \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmUUJ-4J3rJ/?hl=en\">until recently\u003c/a> used to appear at Phở de Nguyen on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927314\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927314\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of small freshwater clams topped with a decorative purple orchid blossom.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the hard-to-find Khmer specialties served at Sitha’s: a plate of freshwater clams sourced from Stockton’s delta region. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since December 2021, Yim has lovingly nurtured the small, family-run operation. A San Francisco resident, Yim first ventured into the local food game when she started drying beef jerky with Cambodian seasonings at her mother’s house in the Sunset District during the pandemic. At the time, she utilized Facebook groups to sell her beef jerky and a variety of other specialty Khmer foods — the cuisine of Cambodia’s Khmer ethnic majority, which makes up 90% of the population. She grew in popularity within the local Cambodian community, ultimately landing at Phở de Nguyen. And although her pop-up’s lease at Phở de Nguyen recently ended, Yim is now partnering with Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908432/korner-kitchen-bar-fruitvale-commissary-kitchen-grand-opening\">Korner Kitchen & Bar\u003c/a> to bring her food to Fruitvale starting this spring. She also regularly pops up at venues like Mission Bowling Club and East Brother Beer Co.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite Yim’s underground rise, Cambodian cuisine isn’t exactly at the top of the Bay Area’s food pyramid. Even though so many other diverse immigrant foods have been embraced by our regional palate, traditional Khmer dishes like those offered by Yim can be difficult to find. In 2020, San Francisco’s Khmer mainstay, Angkor Borei, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/6/9/21285207/angkor-borei-closed-son-and-daughters-robin-daeho\">shut down after 30 years\u003c/a> of service. And after \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Bay-Area-restaurant-Nyum-Bai-closes-17177130.php\">last year’s closure of Nyum Bai\u003c/a> — arguably the region’s most celebrated venue for Cambodian eats — it appeared that the already scarce supply of Khmer food in the Bay faced even further decline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, there’s Phnom Penh and Cambodian Street Food, both in Oakland, and a smattering of old-school joints scattered around the Peninsula. But Cambodian food has rarely made a real splash on the local scene, though its presence here dates back to the 1980s, when \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/recipes/article/Angkor-Wat-exemplifies-sense-of-community-2867118.php\">chef Joanna Doung opened what she claims was the very first Cambodian restaurant in the United States\u003c/a> in San Francisco. The since-closed cafe was also called Phnom Penh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yim, age 46, is primed to change that. For her, an appreciation for Cambodian cuisine isn’t about individual accolades — it’s about representing, and feeding, people just like her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927262\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927262\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef poses for a portrait\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim credits her parents for inspiring her to want to give back to the local Cambodian community. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“My parents came to San Francisco and built a Cambodian community temple,” she says. “I was raised in the [Nagara Dhamma] temple after school, everyday. They inspired me. That’s where I learned to cook, clean and give back. I watched them make lots of food for others in need.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After arriving in the Outer Sunset by way of Thailand and Chicago in 1984 at age seven, Yim quickly embraced the diverse Asian American community here. Having left her birth country after the Cambodian genocide — when the Khmer Rouge’s Communist regime killed a quarter of Cambodia’s population, including members of Yim’s own family — she was grateful for a new beginning. In 1999, she opened a doughnut shop in Southern California (\u003ca href=\"https://story.californiasunday.com/ted-ngoy-california-doughnut-king/\">as many other Cambodian Americans did\u003c/a>), before moving to Houston to run a Cajun seafood restaurant for seven years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many refugees, Yim hustled however she could, working around the clock and during holidays to make ends meet. She eventually returned to the Bay Area to raise her two children, moving in with her mother in San Francisco to save money. After her younger brother’s unexpected passing, she began to explore her reconnection to home and Khmer cuisine more deeply.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t until I stopped by Sitha’s Khmerkitchen, where I tasted my first spoonful of kaw (a caramelized soup made with braised pork belly, pork knuckle, bamboo shoots and star anise) that I realized just how much Cambodia’s distinct flavors — and Khmer identity at large — have been largely hidden in plain sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Lack of Khmer Visibility\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Despite California having the largest population of Cambodian immigrants in the U.S. — with Los Angeles, Stockton and greater San Francisco ranking among the most concentrated cities in the nation — the Cambodian food community here has remained relatively invisible from public view, especially when compared to other immigrant groups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s despite the fact that Cambodians have made major contributions to California’s economy and its cuisine since they first started arriving in large numbers between 1979 and 1989. Perhaps most notably, Cambodian immigrants \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcet.org/shows/lost-la/the-cambodian-american-reign-of-doughnut-shops-began-in-this-la-habra-shop\">own an estimated 90% of doughnut shops in California\u003c/a> and are credited with \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-pink-doughnut-boxes-20170525-htmlstory.html\">introducing the now-iconic pink doughnut boxes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet when most Californians think of our state’s cornucopia of popular cuisines, Khmer foods aren’t usually among those listed. So what has kept the general population’s awareness about Cambodian food and Khmer identity on the periphery?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927263\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef sprinkles a spice mixture onto some shrimp on a grill\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim sprinkles a spice mixture onto some shrimp during during one of her pop-up events. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Cambodian genocide almost completely wiped out Khmer culture during the 1970s, though the community \u003ca href=\"https://criticalrefugeestudies.com/storymaps/bay-area/\">has succeeded in coming together\u003c/a> to preserve certain traditions such as Cambodian New Year and dance. Having experienced one of the most traumatic events in Southeast Asian history, many Cambodian refugees have intentionally created distance from their past — physically, mentally and culturally — which partially explains a lack of Khmer visibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My father left and came here; he was basically ready to drop Cambodia as a country,” says Dorothy Chow, a Bay Area–raised Cambodian American who is vice president of sales at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bhbakerydist/?hl=en\">B&H Bakery Distributors\u003c/a>. Her father founded the company in 1992 to provide supplies for mostly Cambodian-owned doughnut shops throughout Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chow’s father’s generation — whose history she documented in a podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://www.deathincambodiapodcast.com/about-the-show\">\u003ci>Death in Cambodia, Life in America\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — escaped their native land with deeply painful recollections. For decades, many parents passed down an open resentment and fear to their children, most of whom never returned to Cambodia or have been taught not to flaunt their Cambodian roots due to intergenerational trauma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, doughnut shops — rather than traditional Khmer cuisine — became a safe refuge and source of stability for Cambodians who were in pursuit of the American Dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of people were so scarred from surviving a genocide in their country that they wanted to be as American as possible,” Chow says. “A lot of them went into doughnut shops, a very American breakfast food that wasn’t a part of their culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My dad referenced the fact that he wasn’t proud to be Cambodian,” she adds. “Even for me, when I was growing up, my parents told me to just say I’m Chinese, not Cambodian. That says a lot as to why there maybe wasn’t as much pride in sharing the culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927264\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927264\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef and her partner prepare food for customers\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim, left, and her partner Van Bui prepare garlic noodles with shrimp during one of her East Brother Beer Co. pop-ups. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chow believes that’s why you’ll rarely see any Cambodian flags or restaurants that are as openly proud of their cultural background — whereas it’s common to see various other ethnicities represented through Mexican symbolism, an Ethiopian flag or Filipino slang at other diversely owned establishments. Even Yim, who is now extremely proud about being Khmer, rejected Cambodia when she was growing up. Instead, she would tell her high school classmates that she was Filipina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Dorothy Chow\"]“When I was growing up, my parents told me to just say I’m Chinese, not Cambodian. That says a lot as to why there maybe wasn’t as much pride in sharing the culture.”[/pullquote]But that seems to be changing. With time having passed, and the rise of online media to promote visibility, a shift is beginning to take place among today’s Khmer Americans in the Bay. And what better way to feel whole and nourished than by learning to embrace forgotten recipes?\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Future of Khmer Cuisine in the Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Sitha Yim doesn’t take days off. She’s a mother and entrepreneur, a proud San Franciscan who often volunteers as a translator for Cambodians in her area. She’s fueled by her love of cooking and is driven to share edible memories of her home with others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a lot,” she admits. “Sometimes I’m tired, I won’t lie. But so many customers tell me they love the food, that they can’t find it anywhere else. I have a fully authentic menu right now. Anything you want in Cambodian food, I have in my kitchen. Even if it’s not on the menu. My oldest customers know. Like a secret menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the help of her partner Van Bui and her teenage daughter Ping, Yim is committed to providing a familial atmosphere at her pop-up, which feels more like eating at a friend’s house and being taken care of by the neighborhood matriarch than ordering at a traditional restaurant. She also continues to volunteer at her family’s Cambodian temple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927261\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927261\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a plate of angel wings, an original chicken dish stuffed with rice noodles, lemongrass and galanga, during a pop-up at East Brother Beer\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim holds a plate of angel wings — chicken wings stuffed with rice noodles, lemongrass and galanga. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though her pop-up spaces don’t show any Cambodian flags or Khmer decor due to being in temporary locations, she operates in a way that feels like someone who is constantly dreaming about their homeland and wants to share that intimacy with you. She hasn’t returned to Cambodia since leaving — due to safety concerns, lack of funding and the inflexibility of her schedule — but says she is making plans to return for the first time in the near future and wants to bring her children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The emergence of Sitha’s Khmerkitchen, which \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/bay-area-best-2022-17653849.php\">merited recognition in the \u003ci>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i>’s\u003c/a> yearly review of best new restaurants of 2022, is coming at the perfect time, when Khmer culture is ready to surge. In addition to Yim’s business, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CivcIhxPqc0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">Nyum Bai occasionally hosts food events\u003c/a> in the area and has announced their hope to fully return. And in 2021, chef Channy Laux — who founded Angkor Cambodian Foods, which sells an array of\u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/02/21/qa-cambodian-chef-helps-home-cooks-master-southeast-asian-cuisine/\"> Cambodian cooking sauces and condiments\u003c/a> — opened her first restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/angkorchef/?hl=en\">Angkor Chef\u003c/a>, in San Jose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“Restaurants are more than just spaces for dining. They’re where lives can be rebuilt, where diasporas can gather safely, where histories and traditions can be passed down and where refuge and healing can begin.”[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The community is starting to feel more comfortable reclaiming our identity as Cambodian,” says Chow, the doughnut business executive. “Healing and reclaiming our identities is happening now. I see our food popping up more, like ‘Hey, I’m actually proud of my culture and the food we make. It’s important enough for me to put effort into this and share it.’ This generation, it’s kind of like putting our stake in the ground and saying, ‘No, actually this food is important to pass down. I’m not going to shy away from it or feel ashamed.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this light, restaurants are more than just spaces for dining. They’re where lives can be rebuilt, where diasporas can gather safely, where histories and traditions can be passed down and where refuge and healing can begin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13915312,arts_13897272,arts_13908432']\u003c/span>“A part of it is wanting to feel firmly connected with your culture,” says my friend, Mo, who tells me his dad rejected Cambodia upon arriving to California. But that didn’t stop Mo from learning about his parent’s homeland and eventually taking a trip across the Pacific to experience it for himself. “I never felt American because I conceptualized America as white, so I wanted hella badly to find some sense of belonging. I picked Cambodians as my people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, as someone who had never experienced Khmer food, Yim’s pop-up is a crash course on homestyle Cambodian cuisine: pungent fish sauces, tangy herb pastes, salty fats, pickled vegetables and gingery surprises. It is a parade of both unknown and familiar aromas — cucumbers and bean sprouts followed by a bite of tripe, an ambitious spoonful of bitter melon soup and a soft boiled egg with a mouthful of white rice to finish it all off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927265\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13927265\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef steams food\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-2048x1367.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-1920x1282.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steam catches the sunlight as Sitha Yim cleans the griddle during her pop-up at East Brother Beer Company in Richmond, California on April 2, 2023. (Kori Suzuki / KQED News) \u003ccite>((Kori Suzuki/KQED))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We split a plate of Yim’s Hmong-style stuffed chicken wings, a dish commonly sold by street vendors in Cambodia, Mo tells me. The massive wings are as layered as Yim’s journey as a refugee. And the taste? It’s as homey and comforting as you’ll find anywhere in the Bay Area. As Yim describes it, serving Khmer food is a culinary labor of love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I love Cambodian food, I’m not a big fan of American food,” she says. “My kids? They love Cambodian food, too. When their friends visit our house, I give them Cambodian food and they tell me they wish their parents knew how to make it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mo agrees, pausing before his next bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is home right here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sithas_authentic_khmer_food/?hl=en\">Sitha’s Khmerkitchen\u003c/a> will be featured at Oakland’s newly reopened \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/korneroakland/\">Korner Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> (1014 Fruitvale Ave.) on April 6–7 from 4–10 p.m., and will pop up regularly at the Fruitvale restaurant on weekends moving forward. Follow Sitha’s on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sithas_authentic_khmer_food/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> for updated hours and for details about additional pop-up locations.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>’m seated inside Phở de Nguyen, a neon-bathed Vietnamese restaurant in downtown San Bruno, on a chilly winter night. I came to get warmed up — but not by the delicious phở the restaurant is known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, I’m here for something less familiar and harder to find in the Bay Area: homestyle Cambodian food. I’d admittedly never eaten any before that point. Luckily, Mo Seaty, a first-generation Cambodian American from East Oakland and my homie, smoothly places our order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s salaw machu kreung, a lemongrass-seasoned beef and tripe soup with eggplant. Amok trei, one of Cambodia’s national dishes, consists of salmon seasoned with kroeung — a spice and herb paste made with makrut lime leaves, galanga and turmeric — then steamed in banana leaves. Prahok ktiss is simmered minced pork mixed with chili peppers, coconut milk and fermented fish sauce. And that’s all before a platter of freshwater clams, directly sourced from the delta region of Stockton, is jigsawed onto our already crowded table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can’t find this anywhere,” says Sitha Yim, the owner of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sithas_authentic_khmer_food/?hl=en\">Sitha’s Khmerkitchen\u003c/a>, a Cambodian pop-up that \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CmUUJ-4J3rJ/?hl=en\">until recently\u003c/a> used to appear at Phở de Nguyen on weekends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927314\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927314\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of small freshwater clams topped with a decorative purple orchid blossom.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/sithas_clams-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the hard-to-find Khmer specialties served at Sitha’s: a plate of freshwater clams sourced from Stockton’s delta region. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since December 2021, Yim has lovingly nurtured the small, family-run operation. A San Francisco resident, Yim first ventured into the local food game when she started drying beef jerky with Cambodian seasonings at her mother’s house in the Sunset District during the pandemic. At the time, she utilized Facebook groups to sell her beef jerky and a variety of other specialty Khmer foods — the cuisine of Cambodia’s Khmer ethnic majority, which makes up 90% of the population. She grew in popularity within the local Cambodian community, ultimately landing at Phở de Nguyen. And although her pop-up’s lease at Phở de Nguyen recently ended, Yim is now partnering with Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908432/korner-kitchen-bar-fruitvale-commissary-kitchen-grand-opening\">Korner Kitchen & Bar\u003c/a> to bring her food to Fruitvale starting this spring. She also regularly pops up at venues like Mission Bowling Club and East Brother Beer Co.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite Yim’s underground rise, Cambodian cuisine isn’t exactly at the top of the Bay Area’s food pyramid. Even though so many other diverse immigrant foods have been embraced by our regional palate, traditional Khmer dishes like those offered by Yim can be difficult to find. In 2020, San Francisco’s Khmer mainstay, Angkor Borei, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/6/9/21285207/angkor-borei-closed-son-and-daughters-robin-daeho\">shut down after 30 years\u003c/a> of service. And after \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Bay-Area-restaurant-Nyum-Bai-closes-17177130.php\">last year’s closure of Nyum Bai\u003c/a> — arguably the region’s most celebrated venue for Cambodian eats — it appeared that the already scarce supply of Khmer food in the Bay faced even further decline.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, there’s Phnom Penh and Cambodian Street Food, both in Oakland, and a smattering of old-school joints scattered around the Peninsula. But Cambodian food has rarely made a real splash on the local scene, though its presence here dates back to the 1980s, when \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfgate.com/recipes/article/Angkor-Wat-exemplifies-sense-of-community-2867118.php\">chef Joanna Doung opened what she claims was the very first Cambodian restaurant in the United States\u003c/a> in San Francisco. The since-closed cafe was also called Phnom Penh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yim, age 46, is primed to change that. For her, an appreciation for Cambodian cuisine isn’t about individual accolades — it’s about representing, and feeding, people just like her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927262\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927262\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef poses for a portrait\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_231-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim credits her parents for inspiring her to want to give back to the local Cambodian community. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“My parents came to San Francisco and built a Cambodian community temple,” she says. “I was raised in the [Nagara Dhamma] temple after school, everyday. They inspired me. That’s where I learned to cook, clean and give back. I watched them make lots of food for others in need.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After arriving in the Outer Sunset by way of Thailand and Chicago in 1984 at age seven, Yim quickly embraced the diverse Asian American community here. Having left her birth country after the Cambodian genocide — when the Khmer Rouge’s Communist regime killed a quarter of Cambodia’s population, including members of Yim’s own family — she was grateful for a new beginning. In 1999, she opened a doughnut shop in Southern California (\u003ca href=\"https://story.californiasunday.com/ted-ngoy-california-doughnut-king/\">as many other Cambodian Americans did\u003c/a>), before moving to Houston to run a Cajun seafood restaurant for seven years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many refugees, Yim hustled however she could, working around the clock and during holidays to make ends meet. She eventually returned to the Bay Area to raise her two children, moving in with her mother in San Francisco to save money. After her younger brother’s unexpected passing, she began to explore her reconnection to home and Khmer cuisine more deeply.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t until I stopped by Sitha’s Khmerkitchen, where I tasted my first spoonful of kaw (a caramelized soup made with braised pork belly, pork knuckle, bamboo shoots and star anise) that I realized just how much Cambodia’s distinct flavors — and Khmer identity at large — have been largely hidden in plain sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Lack of Khmer Visibility\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Despite California having the largest population of Cambodian immigrants in the U.S. — with Los Angeles, Stockton and greater San Francisco ranking among the most concentrated cities in the nation — the Cambodian food community here has remained relatively invisible from public view, especially when compared to other immigrant groups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s despite the fact that Cambodians have made major contributions to California’s economy and its cuisine since they first started arriving in large numbers between 1979 and 1989. Perhaps most notably, Cambodian immigrants \u003ca href=\"https://www.kcet.org/shows/lost-la/the-cambodian-american-reign-of-doughnut-shops-began-in-this-la-habra-shop\">own an estimated 90% of doughnut shops in California\u003c/a> and are credited with \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-pink-doughnut-boxes-20170525-htmlstory.html\">introducing the now-iconic pink doughnut boxes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet when most Californians think of our state’s cornucopia of popular cuisines, Khmer foods aren’t usually among those listed. So what has kept the general population’s awareness about Cambodian food and Khmer identity on the periphery?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927263\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927263\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef sprinkles a spice mixture onto some shrimp on a grill\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_289-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim sprinkles a spice mixture onto some shrimp during during one of her pop-up events. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Cambodian genocide almost completely wiped out Khmer culture during the 1970s, though the community \u003ca href=\"https://criticalrefugeestudies.com/storymaps/bay-area/\">has succeeded in coming together\u003c/a> to preserve certain traditions such as Cambodian New Year and dance. Having experienced one of the most traumatic events in Southeast Asian history, many Cambodian refugees have intentionally created distance from their past — physically, mentally and culturally — which partially explains a lack of Khmer visibility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My father left and came here; he was basically ready to drop Cambodia as a country,” says Dorothy Chow, a Bay Area–raised Cambodian American who is vice president of sales at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bhbakerydist/?hl=en\">B&H Bakery Distributors\u003c/a>. Her father founded the company in 1992 to provide supplies for mostly Cambodian-owned doughnut shops throughout Northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chow’s father’s generation — whose history she documented in a podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://www.deathincambodiapodcast.com/about-the-show\">\u003ci>Death in Cambodia, Life in America\u003c/i>\u003c/a> — escaped their native land with deeply painful recollections. For decades, many parents passed down an open resentment and fear to their children, most of whom never returned to Cambodia or have been taught not to flaunt their Cambodian roots due to intergenerational trauma.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, doughnut shops — rather than traditional Khmer cuisine — became a safe refuge and source of stability for Cambodians who were in pursuit of the American Dream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of people were so scarred from surviving a genocide in their country that they wanted to be as American as possible,” Chow says. “A lot of them went into doughnut shops, a very American breakfast food that wasn’t a part of their culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My dad referenced the fact that he wasn’t proud to be Cambodian,” she adds. “Even for me, when I was growing up, my parents told me to just say I’m Chinese, not Cambodian. That says a lot as to why there maybe wasn’t as much pride in sharing the culture.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927264\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927264\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef and her partner prepare food for customers\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_317-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim, left, and her partner Van Bui prepare garlic noodles with shrimp during one of her East Brother Beer Co. pop-ups. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chow believes that’s why you’ll rarely see any Cambodian flags or restaurants that are as openly proud of their cultural background — whereas it’s common to see various other ethnicities represented through Mexican symbolism, an Ethiopian flag or Filipino slang at other diversely owned establishments. Even Yim, who is now extremely proud about being Khmer, rejected Cambodia when she was growing up. Instead, she would tell her high school classmates that she was Filipina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>But that seems to be changing. With time having passed, and the rise of online media to promote visibility, a shift is beginning to take place among today’s Khmer Americans in the Bay. And what better way to feel whole and nourished than by learning to embrace forgotten recipes?\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Future of Khmer Cuisine in the Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Sitha Yim doesn’t take days off. She’s a mother and entrepreneur, a proud San Franciscan who often volunteers as a translator for Cambodians in her area. She’s fueled by her love of cooking and is driven to share edible memories of her home with others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a lot,” she admits. “Sometimes I’m tired, I won’t lie. But so many customers tell me they love the food, that they can’t find it anywhere else. I have a fully authentic menu right now. Anything you want in Cambodian food, I have in my kitchen. Even if it’s not on the menu. My oldest customers know. Like a secret menu.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the help of her partner Van Bui and her teenage daughter Ping, Yim is committed to providing a familial atmosphere at her pop-up, which feels more like eating at a friend’s house and being taken care of by the neighborhood matriarch than ordering at a traditional restaurant. She also continues to volunteer at her family’s Cambodian temple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927261\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927261\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"a plate of angel wings, an original chicken dish stuffed with rice noodles, lemongrass and galanga, during a pop-up at East Brother Beer\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1703\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-800x532.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-160x106.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-768x511.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-2048x1363.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_081-1920x1277.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yim holds a plate of angel wings — chicken wings stuffed with rice noodles, lemongrass and galanga. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though her pop-up spaces don’t show any Cambodian flags or Khmer decor due to being in temporary locations, she operates in a way that feels like someone who is constantly dreaming about their homeland and wants to share that intimacy with you. She hasn’t returned to Cambodia since leaving — due to safety concerns, lack of funding and the inflexibility of her schedule — but says she is making plans to return for the first time in the near future and wants to bring her children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The emergence of Sitha’s Khmerkitchen, which \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/bay-area-best-2022-17653849.php\">merited recognition in the \u003ci>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/i>’s\u003c/a> yearly review of best new restaurants of 2022, is coming at the perfect time, when Khmer culture is ready to surge. In addition to Yim’s business, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CivcIhxPqc0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\">Nyum Bai occasionally hosts food events\u003c/a> in the area and has announced their hope to fully return. And in 2021, chef Channy Laux — who founded Angkor Cambodian Foods, which sells an array of\u003ca href=\"https://www.mercurynews.com/2019/02/21/qa-cambodian-chef-helps-home-cooks-master-southeast-asian-cuisine/\"> Cambodian cooking sauces and condiments\u003c/a> — opened her first restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/angkorchef/?hl=en\">Angkor Chef\u003c/a>, in San Jose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The community is starting to feel more comfortable reclaiming our identity as Cambodian,” says Chow, the doughnut business executive. “Healing and reclaiming our identities is happening now. I see our food popping up more, like ‘Hey, I’m actually proud of my culture and the food we make. It’s important enough for me to put effort into this and share it.’ This generation, it’s kind of like putting our stake in the ground and saying, ‘No, actually this food is important to pass down. I’m not going to shy away from it or feel ashamed.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this light, restaurants are more than just spaces for dining. They’re where lives can be rebuilt, where diasporas can gather safely, where histories and traditions can be passed down and where refuge and healing can begin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>“A part of it is wanting to feel firmly connected with your culture,” says my friend, Mo, who tells me his dad rejected Cambodia upon arriving to California. But that didn’t stop Mo from learning about his parent’s homeland and eventually taking a trip across the Pacific to experience it for himself. “I never felt American because I conceptualized America as white, so I wanted hella badly to find some sense of belonging. I picked Cambodians as my people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, as someone who had never experienced Khmer food, Yim’s pop-up is a crash course on homestyle Cambodian cuisine: pungent fish sauces, tangy herb pastes, salty fats, pickled vegetables and gingery surprises. It is a parade of both unknown and familiar aromas — cucumbers and bean sprouts followed by a bite of tripe, an ambitious spoonful of bitter melon soup and a soft boiled egg with a mouthful of white rice to finish it all off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927265\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13927265\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"A Cambodian chef steams food\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-2048x1367.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/04/04022023_kqed_sithakhmerkitchen_558-1920x1282.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steam catches the sunlight as Sitha Yim cleans the griddle during her pop-up at East Brother Beer Company in Richmond, California on April 2, 2023. (Kori Suzuki / KQED News) \u003ccite>((Kori Suzuki/KQED))\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We split a plate of Yim’s Hmong-style stuffed chicken wings, a dish commonly sold by street vendors in Cambodia, Mo tells me. The massive wings are as layered as Yim’s journey as a refugee. And the taste? It’s as homey and comforting as you’ll find anywhere in the Bay Area. As Yim describes it, serving Khmer food is a culinary labor of love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I love Cambodian food, I’m not a big fan of American food,” she says. “My kids? They love Cambodian food, too. When their friends visit our house, I give them Cambodian food and they tell me they wish their parents knew how to make it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mo agrees, pausing before his next bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is home right here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sithas_authentic_khmer_food/?hl=en\">Sitha’s Khmerkitchen\u003c/a> will be featured at Oakland’s newly reopened \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/korneroakland/\">Korner Kitchen and Bar\u003c/a> (1014 Fruitvale Ave.) on April 6–7 from 4–10 p.m., and will pop up regularly at the Fruitvale restaurant on weekends moving forward. Follow Sitha’s on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sithas_authentic_khmer_food/?hl=en\">Instagram\u003c/a> for updated hours and for details about additional pop-up locations.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "How Chinese Immigrants All Over the World Persevered: They Opened Restaurants",
"headTitle": "How Chinese Immigrants All Over the World Persevered: They Opened Restaurants | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>You can find Chinese restaurants almost everywhere. That’s a fundamental fact of today’s globalized economy. But if you’ve ever stumbled across a wonton and egg roll joint in, say, a remote Canadian prairie town or a heavily Latino stretch of Fruitvale, you may have wondered to yourself, “How in the world did this place open \u003ci>here\u003c/i>?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the question that has propelled the documentary filmmaker Cheuk Kwan for years. In the early 2000s, he spent four years traveling the world to create a \u003ca href=\"https://chineserestaurants.tv/\">documentary series\u003c/a> on diasporic restaurants owned and operated by Chinese immigrants. Now, he’s written a new book based on those experiences. Part travelog, part food memoir, \u003ca href=\"https://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Have-You-Eaten-Yet/Cheuk-Kwan/9781639363346\">\u003ci>Have You Eaten Yet?\u003c/i>\u003c/a> tells the story of the immigrants behind 15 of the world’s most far-flung and unexpected Chinese restaurants, whether they’re wielding their woks in the Amazon or way up in the Arctic Circle. The book also functions as a dissertation on the Chinese diasporic experience itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I travel, I always poke my head into Chinese restaurants,” Kwan says. “I’m not only searching for comfort food — I’m always very curious about how these people got there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://oacc.cc/event/have-you-eaten-yet/\">On April 2\u003c/a>, Kwan will join the legendary chef Martin Yan on stage at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center for a conversation about food, the Chinese diaspora and the way restaurants function as a survival tool — and a wellspring of creativity — for Chinese immigrants all over the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Kwan, this decades-long project has been a natural extension of his own identity: The Toronto resident was born in Hong Kong, raised in Singapore and Japan, and educated in the United States, including a year at UC Berkeley in the mid-’70s, at the height of the Asian American political movement. As a result of this diasporic upbringing, Kwan says, he encountered very little during his travels to Chinese restaurants around the world that he found truly surprising — not the simple bacon-and-eggs breakfasts served at a Chinese cafe in Saskatchewan, Canada, nor the chaufa fried rice he found at the Chinatown in Lima, Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927114\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam.jpg\" alt=\"The author and documentary filmmaker Cheuk Kwan poses for a portrait in a black sports coat.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-800x535.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-768x514.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-1536x1028.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s own diasporic Chinese background helped fuel the project. \u003ccite>(Cedric Sam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Because I’ve gone through a lot of cultures myself, I understand how people have to hybridize cuisine to cater to local customers,” he says. “It’s a matter of survival.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That isn’t to say he didn’t learn anything from his travels. Kwan points to the time he spent in Madagascar, off the southeastern coast of Africa, where he was surprised to find that the local Chinese community goes back five or six generations, with families still sending their kids to attend Chinese language schools even as the community intermarried and assimilated into the local population. One of Madagascar’s national dishes, soupe chinoise, is essentially Chinese wonton soup. “Everybody eats it,” Kwan says, “breakfast, lunch and dinner.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13905832,arts_13924997,arts_13925835']\u003c/span>Still, Kwan doesn’t think of the book as being about food per se. “It’s using food as an illustration of how adaptive and creative people can be when they’re thrown into a foreign land and barriers to language,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Sunday’s event, Kwan expects to have a rich and wide-ranging conversation with Yan, who, even beyond his illustrious television career, has taught Chinese cooking all over the world — and has, in that way, become an icon of the Chinese diaspora.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, it wouldn’t be a proper Martin Yan event without some kind of cooking demonstration, though the event organizers are keeping the exact details a surprise. “He’s going to add some flavor to the event,” Kwan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>‘Have You Eaten Yet?’ takes place on Sunday, April 2, from 2–4 p.m. at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center (388 9th St., Ste. 290) in Oakland. Tickets are free with \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://oacc.cc/event/have-you-eaten-yet/\">\u003ci>pre-registration\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, and the event is wheelchair-accessible.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You can find Chinese restaurants almost everywhere. That’s a fundamental fact of today’s globalized economy. But if you’ve ever stumbled across a wonton and egg roll joint in, say, a remote Canadian prairie town or a heavily Latino stretch of Fruitvale, you may have wondered to yourself, “How in the world did this place open \u003ci>here\u003c/i>?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s the question that has propelled the documentary filmmaker Cheuk Kwan for years. In the early 2000s, he spent four years traveling the world to create a \u003ca href=\"https://chineserestaurants.tv/\">documentary series\u003c/a> on diasporic restaurants owned and operated by Chinese immigrants. Now, he’s written a new book based on those experiences. Part travelog, part food memoir, \u003ca href=\"https://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Have-You-Eaten-Yet/Cheuk-Kwan/9781639363346\">\u003ci>Have You Eaten Yet?\u003c/i>\u003c/a> tells the story of the immigrants behind 15 of the world’s most far-flung and unexpected Chinese restaurants, whether they’re wielding their woks in the Amazon or way up in the Arctic Circle. The book also functions as a dissertation on the Chinese diasporic experience itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I travel, I always poke my head into Chinese restaurants,” Kwan says. “I’m not only searching for comfort food — I’m always very curious about how these people got there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://oacc.cc/event/have-you-eaten-yet/\">On April 2\u003c/a>, Kwan will join the legendary chef Martin Yan on stage at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center for a conversation about food, the Chinese diaspora and the way restaurants function as a survival tool — and a wellspring of creativity — for Chinese immigrants all over the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Kwan, this decades-long project has been a natural extension of his own identity: The Toronto resident was born in Hong Kong, raised in Singapore and Japan, and educated in the United States, including a year at UC Berkeley in the mid-’70s, at the height of the Asian American political movement. As a result of this diasporic upbringing, Kwan says, he encountered very little during his travels to Chinese restaurants around the world that he found truly surprising — not the simple bacon-and-eggs breakfasts served at a Chinese cafe in Saskatchewan, Canada, nor the chaufa fried rice he found at the Chinatown in Lima, Peru.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13927114\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13927114\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam.jpg\" alt=\"The author and documentary filmmaker Cheuk Kwan poses for a portrait in a black sports coat.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-800x535.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-768x514.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Kwan-Author-Photo-Credit-Cedric-Sam-1536x1028.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The author’s own diasporic Chinese background helped fuel the project. \u003ccite>(Cedric Sam)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Because I’ve gone through a lot of cultures myself, I understand how people have to hybridize cuisine to cater to local customers,” he says. “It’s a matter of survival.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That isn’t to say he didn’t learn anything from his travels. Kwan points to the time he spent in Madagascar, off the southeastern coast of Africa, where he was surprised to find that the local Chinese community goes back five or six generations, with families still sending their kids to attend Chinese language schools even as the community intermarried and assimilated into the local population. One of Madagascar’s national dishes, soupe chinoise, is essentially Chinese wonton soup. “Everybody eats it,” Kwan says, “breakfast, lunch and dinner.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Still, Kwan doesn’t think of the book as being about food per se. “It’s using food as an illustration of how adaptive and creative people can be when they’re thrown into a foreign land and barriers to language,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Sunday’s event, Kwan expects to have a rich and wide-ranging conversation with Yan, who, even beyond his illustrious television career, has taught Chinese cooking all over the world — and has, in that way, become an icon of the Chinese diaspora.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, it wouldn’t be a proper Martin Yan event without some kind of cooking demonstration, though the event organizers are keeping the exact details a surprise. “He’s going to add some flavor to the event,” Kwan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>‘Have You Eaten Yet?’ takes place on Sunday, April 2, from 2–4 p.m. at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center (388 9th St., Ste. 290) in Oakland. Tickets are free with \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://oacc.cc/event/have-you-eaten-yet/\">\u003ci>pre-registration\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>, and the event is wheelchair-accessible.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Tasty Tings Is an Underground Jamaican Patty Party in the Bay",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>generation\u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci> local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jamaican beef patties are one of those foods you can only truly appreciate if you’ve ever lived outside of the Bay Area. Hefty enough to satiate your stomach, compact enough to grub on while walking to the bus stop and packing enough kick to light up your taste buds, these patties are a quintessentially Caribbean street food that West Coast cities generally lack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t until I migrated to the East Coast, where the Caribbean population is far more sizable than it is in California, that I fell in love with the gold-flaked zing of the Jamaican patty. Similar to an empanada, the patties are warm, spicy, beefed up and — very importantly — affordable enough to buy with whatever dollar bills you have crinkled up in your pockets. Often stuffed with various combinations of meats or veggies, Jamaican patties are a versatile vessel for deliciousness. They got me through my coldest winters in Boston and proved to be a worthy substitute for the street tacos I sorely missed, especially after late-night functions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since returning to the Bay, I’ve noticed the lack of Caribbean patties here. I missed them. So you can understand my excitement when I found Tasty Tings, a one-woman pop-up run by Bayview born-and-raised Alyssa Magdaluyo, who was vending the Jamaican baked goods on a sidewalk in Oakland. I immediately stopped what I was doing, crossed the street and ordered a few to take home to my wife, who misses Jamaican beef patties even more than I do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926981\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg\" alt=\"The owner of Tasty Tings poses in front of a sign for her Jamaican food pop up.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-800x795.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1020x1014.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-768x763.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1536x1526.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alyssa Magdaluyo poses at a food pop-up event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tasty Tings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Magdaluyo, who is a mix of Jamaican, Filipina, Chinese and Creole heritages, uses her food as a way to console herself and others. “I love eating,” she says. “But also I love being able to feed. To be able to share food with others is the most comforting experience.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s what the 28-year-old had to say about her Frisco flavors — served with a dash of Caribbean fire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: You’re a full-time food hustler. How did you get into foodmaking?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alyssa Magdaluyo: \u003c/b>I just love cooking. I’m the youngest of three siblings. By the time I was born my mom was over cooking. It was always make-your-own-dinner night. The fridge was always stocked, so that was an entryway into cooking. Growing up, I’ve always wanted [to own] a bakery or restaurant or to be a food columnist, but living in San Francisco is hella expensive to eat out all the time. Cooking became a survival thing and a way to eat food I can’t afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why did you start Tasty Tings?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to hit up Jamaica, the motherland — but then COVID happened. I hit up the Philippines before that though. I also visited New Orleans since I’m Creole. Since I couldn’t go to Jamaica, I started experimenting more with patties, and I put it on social media. People just wanted to keep eating my food. This is my third official year since shelter in place. Every year I’m just surprised. I think I’ll have to get a job serving again, but my people and my community have always held me and supported me. Like damn, I make really good food, and I hold it to the standards of any job I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell us about the Jamaican-style patties you serve.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s like an empanada. I do a lentil one — lentils stewed in coconut cream and garlic. You can tell I’m Filipino because of all the garlic (laughs). I love the mushroom, too. It’s spicy jerk mushroom and bell peppers. Sometimes I be making it a little too spicy ‘cause the marinade gets absorbed into the dough (laughs). The beef and cheese are really popular. I like cheese, so I’m always trying to add more cheese. The shrimp one is really fire — jerk shrimp with cheese. It has caramelized leeks and bell peppers. And curry chicken was my other favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year I try to do another [flavor] and perfect it. I usually do a sweet one for fun — coconut condensed milk and bananas. I wanna do a plantain one, a spicy one. But it would be hella dense. I’m trying to mix it up this year. October is Filipino Heritage Month, and I do try to do Filipino flavors, like longaniza. It’s longaniza pork in spicy papaya salad with an egg. It’s difficult putting that together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926977\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13926977\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"A Jamaican beef patty on a wooden table\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A classic Jamaican beef patty from Tasty Tings. \u003ccite>(Elliott Alexander)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your process for making a batch of patties?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a prep station at my house. It’s in my living room. It’s all super small-batch. I can probably yield 150 max. I usually just get everything from the store — Mandela or Berkeley Bowl, they have all those special seasonings. I used the smoked salt for the chicken and the jerk because it gives it that flavor since I can’t barbecue mushrooms. Jerk is like Jamaican-style barbecue, basically. I’m trying to infuse those flavors without actually grilling. I just be going crazy looking at patties after that (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You proudly grew up in San Francisco. How does that influence your approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13925984,arts_13922141,arts_13926878']I went to school in Pac Heights, and all my classmates were Chinese. And I lived in Bayview where all my neighbors were Black. They each saw me as the other. I just rolled with it. I lived on a hill, right in the middle, so I just created a balance. Took what I liked and kept it pushing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being from the city and watching it change all the time, especially from living in Bayview, you see it all change, and it’s disheartening. Police corruption, community issues. I like to walk down 24th Street to remember I live here, I’m from here. That’s a mental health walk for me. I’m so grateful. SF breaks my heart so much, but I still love it. It’s like a relationship. I ride so hard for being on this land, but it’s disheartening when it doesn’t want to push you forward also.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You often collaborate with local artists, including \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910221/family-not-a-group-san-francisco-rap\">\u003cb>Family Not A Group\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, the San Francisco collective. What’s your connection to them?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I fucking love FNG. Shout out to all 17 of y’all. I honestly have a personal relationship with everyone in FNG. Just from being raised in this city. The artist hub [in San Francisco] is so small. It makes sense for us to use our platforms to help each other. I wouldn’t be where I’m at without having the support of my community. It’s a beautiful space to be a part of. I’ve known \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thejenset/?hl=en\">DJ Jenset\u003c/a> since we were 15. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/everybodylovezmike/\">Mike Evans\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baghead.fng/\">Baghead\u003c/a> I knew from when we were in the Mario Woods Coalition together. I love being around them. Seeing them all together is even better because we’ve shared experiences together. FNG reminds me that we exist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/justice4mariowoodscoalition/\">\u003cb>Mario Woods Coalition\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a grip of people combating police brutality. We had meetings and set up protest dates. Being in that space helped me. I didn’t really have a group of friends in my community until I went to those meetings. Thank god I wasn’t the only one worrying about this. I was happy I found a safe space where we were trying to do something about it and not just being terrorized.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s one thing about San Francisco you think outsiders might not understand?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s pushed out so many people. [But] the community is what makes it beautiful. It’s not Lands End hype. [That’s] so fake. This isn’t what people are here for. They want the art, the music, the community leaders, the muralists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Alyssa Magdaluyo\"]“I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.”[/pullquote]I honestly got evicted out of my family home five years ago, and I came to Oakland. I didn’t think I would enjoy it… well that’s not true. I just love my home [in SF]. But I’ve learned about a new community, and Oakland holds it down. I’m eternally grateful to stay in the Bay. But I love my home and being able to feed you guys and go to all these cool shows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you have any favorite beef patty hideouts in the Bay Area besides your own?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I honestly haven’t had many beef patties in the Bay. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/peachespatties/?hl=en\">Peaches Patties\u003c/a> — she was at Outside Lands. Those are freakin’ good. I honestly went to New York and did some research and development (laughs). There’s this one in New York, I wish i could tell you where it was, a Senegalese spot; they make these curry goat patties. So good. But I’m not handling goat. That’s just next level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the realities of operating a pop-up food business in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just trying to find a balance between handling and saving my mental health and physical health and not burning out — having better boundaries. I can’t overextend myself and make 250 patties to sell out. I’m staying in my lane of 100 to 50 small-batch [so I can] have a real connection with the people I’m vending to rather than having only a transactional moment. I didn’t start it for that. This was a passion project to share comfort with friends and my community [during the pandemic], and it extended to a lot of people who needed food vendors. I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tasty_tings/\">\u003ci>Tasty Tings\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram for announcements on pop-up events and locations around the Bay Area. Catering is also available; send inquiries to \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"mailto:tastytings@gmail.com\">\u003ci>tastytings@gmail.com\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Tasty Tings Is an Underground Jamaican Patty Party in Oakland and SF | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cb>generation\u003c/b>\u003cb>\u003ci> local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jamaican beef patties are one of those foods you can only truly appreciate if you’ve ever lived outside of the Bay Area. Hefty enough to satiate your stomach, compact enough to grub on while walking to the bus stop and packing enough kick to light up your taste buds, these patties are a quintessentially Caribbean street food that West Coast cities generally lack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t until I migrated to the East Coast, where the Caribbean population is far more sizable than it is in California, that I fell in love with the gold-flaked zing of the Jamaican patty. Similar to an empanada, the patties are warm, spicy, beefed up and — very importantly — affordable enough to buy with whatever dollar bills you have crinkled up in your pockets. Often stuffed with various combinations of meats or veggies, Jamaican patties are a versatile vessel for deliciousness. They got me through my coldest winters in Boston and proved to be a worthy substitute for the street tacos I sorely missed, especially after late-night functions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since returning to the Bay, I’ve noticed the lack of Caribbean patties here. I missed them. So you can understand my excitement when I found Tasty Tings, a one-woman pop-up run by Bayview born-and-raised Alyssa Magdaluyo, who was vending the Jamaican baked goods on a sidewalk in Oakland. I immediately stopped what I was doing, crossed the street and ordered a few to take home to my wife, who misses Jamaican beef patties even more than I do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926981\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926981\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg\" alt=\"The owner of Tasty Tings poses in front of a sign for her Jamaican food pop up.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1908\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-800x795.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1020x1014.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-160x159.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-768x763.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty-tings-owner-1536x1526.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Alyssa Magdaluyo poses at a food pop-up event. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tasty Tings)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Magdaluyo, who is a mix of Jamaican, Filipina, Chinese and Creole heritages, uses her food as a way to console herself and others. “I love eating,” she says. “But also I love being able to feed. To be able to share food with others is the most comforting experience.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s what the 28-year-old had to say about her Frisco flavors — served with a dash of Caribbean fire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003ci>********\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alan Chazaro: You’re a full-time food hustler. How did you get into foodmaking?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Alyssa Magdaluyo: \u003c/b>I just love cooking. I’m the youngest of three siblings. By the time I was born my mom was over cooking. It was always make-your-own-dinner night. The fridge was always stocked, so that was an entryway into cooking. Growing up, I’ve always wanted [to own] a bakery or restaurant or to be a food columnist, but living in San Francisco is hella expensive to eat out all the time. Cooking became a survival thing and a way to eat food I can’t afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Why did you start Tasty Tings?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to hit up Jamaica, the motherland — but then COVID happened. I hit up the Philippines before that though. I also visited New Orleans since I’m Creole. Since I couldn’t go to Jamaica, I started experimenting more with patties, and I put it on social media. People just wanted to keep eating my food. This is my third official year since shelter in place. Every year I’m just surprised. I think I’ll have to get a job serving again, but my people and my community have always held me and supported me. Like damn, I make really good food, and I hold it to the standards of any job I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Tell us about the Jamaican-style patties you serve.\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s like an empanada. I do a lentil one — lentils stewed in coconut cream and garlic. You can tell I’m Filipino because of all the garlic (laughs). I love the mushroom, too. It’s spicy jerk mushroom and bell peppers. Sometimes I be making it a little too spicy ‘cause the marinade gets absorbed into the dough (laughs). The beef and cheese are really popular. I like cheese, so I’m always trying to add more cheese. The shrimp one is really fire — jerk shrimp with cheese. It has caramelized leeks and bell peppers. And curry chicken was my other favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year I try to do another [flavor] and perfect it. I usually do a sweet one for fun — coconut condensed milk and bananas. I wanna do a plantain one, a spicy one. But it would be hella dense. I’m trying to mix it up this year. October is Filipino Heritage Month, and I do try to do Filipino flavors, like longaniza. It’s longaniza pork in spicy papaya salad with an egg. It’s difficult putting that together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926977\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13926977\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"A Jamaican beef patty on a wooden table\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-800x534.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-768x513.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef-1536x1026.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/tasty_tings_beef.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A classic Jamaican beef patty from Tasty Tings. \u003ccite>(Elliott Alexander)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your process for making a batch of patties?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a prep station at my house. It’s in my living room. It’s all super small-batch. I can probably yield 150 max. I usually just get everything from the store — Mandela or Berkeley Bowl, they have all those special seasonings. I used the smoked salt for the chicken and the jerk because it gives it that flavor since I can’t barbecue mushrooms. Jerk is like Jamaican-style barbecue, basically. I’m trying to infuse those flavors without actually grilling. I just be going crazy looking at patties after that (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You proudly grew up in San Francisco. How does that influence your approach?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I went to school in Pac Heights, and all my classmates were Chinese. And I lived in Bayview where all my neighbors were Black. They each saw me as the other. I just rolled with it. I lived on a hill, right in the middle, so I just created a balance. Took what I liked and kept it pushing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being from the city and watching it change all the time, especially from living in Bayview, you see it all change, and it’s disheartening. Police corruption, community issues. I like to walk down 24th Street to remember I live here, I’m from here. That’s a mental health walk for me. I’m so grateful. SF breaks my heart so much, but I still love it. It’s like a relationship. I ride so hard for being on this land, but it’s disheartening when it doesn’t want to push you forward also.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You often collaborate with local artists, including \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910221/family-not-a-group-san-francisco-rap\">\u003cb>Family Not A Group\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>, the San Francisco collective. What’s your connection to them?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I fucking love FNG. Shout out to all 17 of y’all. I honestly have a personal relationship with everyone in FNG. Just from being raised in this city. The artist hub [in San Francisco] is so small. It makes sense for us to use our platforms to help each other. I wouldn’t be where I’m at without having the support of my community. It’s a beautiful space to be a part of. I’ve known \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thejenset/?hl=en\">DJ Jenset\u003c/a> since we were 15. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/everybodylovezmike/\">Mike Evans\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/baghead.fng/\">Baghead\u003c/a> I knew from when we were in the Mario Woods Coalition together. I love being around them. Seeing them all together is even better because we’ve shared experiences together. FNG reminds me that we exist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s the \u003c/b>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/justice4mariowoodscoalition/\">\u003cb>Mario Woods Coalition\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb>?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a grip of people combating police brutality. We had meetings and set up protest dates. Being in that space helped me. I didn’t really have a group of friends in my community until I went to those meetings. Thank god I wasn’t the only one worrying about this. I was happy I found a safe space where we were trying to do something about it and not just being terrorized.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s one thing about San Francisco you think outsiders might not understand?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s pushed out so many people. [But] the community is what makes it beautiful. It’s not Lands End hype. [That’s] so fake. This isn’t what people are here for. They want the art, the music, the community leaders, the muralists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>I honestly got evicted out of my family home five years ago, and I came to Oakland. I didn’t think I would enjoy it… well that’s not true. I just love my home [in SF]. But I’ve learned about a new community, and Oakland holds it down. I’m eternally grateful to stay in the Bay. But I love my home and being able to feed you guys and go to all these cool shows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Do you have any favorite beef patty hideouts in the Bay Area besides your own?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I honestly haven’t had many beef patties in the Bay. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/peachespatties/?hl=en\">Peaches Patties\u003c/a> — she was at Outside Lands. Those are freakin’ good. I honestly went to New York and did some research and development (laughs). There’s this one in New York, I wish i could tell you where it was, a Senegalese spot; they make these curry goat patties. So good. But I’m not handling goat. That’s just next level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the realities of operating a pop-up food business in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just trying to find a balance between handling and saving my mental health and physical health and not burning out — having better boundaries. I can’t overextend myself and make 250 patties to sell out. I’m staying in my lane of 100 to 50 small-batch [so I can] have a real connection with the people I’m vending to rather than having only a transactional moment. I didn’t start it for that. This was a passion project to share comfort with friends and my community [during the pandemic], and it extended to a lot of people who needed food vendors. I think of it not like a capitalistic transaction but an energy exchange. I’ll nourish you, and you help me nourish myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Follow \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tasty_tings/\">\u003ci>Tasty Tings\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> on Instagram for announcements on pop-up events and locations around the Bay Area. Catering is also available; send inquiries to \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"mailto:tastytings@gmail.com\">\u003ci>tastytings@gmail.com\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Kingston 11’s Closure Is a Reminder To Not Take Beloved Black-Owned Businesses for Granted",
"headTitle": "Kingston 11’s Closure Is a Reminder To Not Take Beloved Black-Owned Businesses for Granted | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>For 10 years now, the Jamaican oxtail stew at Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/_kingston11/\">Kingston 11\u003c/a> has been one of my go-to comfort meals — a dish whose soupy, tenderly slow-braised succulence I could always rely on to pick me up on the dreariest of days. During that timespan, the restaurant itself has been an anchor at the corner of the Telegraph and West Grand, even as the surrounding neighborhood has undergone so much change. And it has been a vibrant gathering place, from day one, for Oakland’s Black and brown communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At a certain point, it starts to feel like a cliché to talk about the diversity of Oakland’s dining scene and how much more ‘real’ its restaurants are compared to those in other cities,” I wrote when I \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/straight-outta-kingston-1/\">reviewed the restaurant\u003c/a> a few months after it opened in 2013. “But at Kingston 11, where people of color make up the majority of both the staff and the customers, and the crowd is a reasonable facsimile of Oakland itself, the point rings true.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a gut punch, then, when chef-owner Nigel Jones \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2023/3/9/23632640/kingston-11-oakland-restaurant-closing\">announced last week\u003c/a> the Jamaican standby’s last day of service as a dine-in restaurant will be Saturday, March 25. The business and brand won’t cease to exist altogether: Its most popular dishes, like those oxtails and the wonderfully smoky jerk chicken, will still be available at its more casual sister restaurant and marketplace, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/calabasheats/\">Calabash\u003c/a>, which opened in December. And Jones will keep the Kingston 11 space itself as a home base for the restaurant’s catering operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926859\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926859\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of Jamaican-style vegetable curry, served over rice and peas, on a wooden tabletop. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A curry vegetable dish served over rice and peas. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But for the foreseeable future, diners will no longer be able to come in and sit down for a meal — a huge loss for a city that has already experienced the loss of so many Black-centered spaces. Miss Ollie’s, the beloved Afro-Caribbean spot, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">closed this past year\u003c/a>. So did \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2022/01/11/brown-sugar-kitchen-tanya-holland-closed\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When reached by phone, Jones told me that he has been keenly aware of that loss. In the week since he first announced the news, a steady stream of longtime customers has reached out to him to express their grief — to lament yet another Black-owned restaurant in Oakland going under.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Jones’ view, the closure of Kingston 11 and these other restaurants should serve as a reminder of how important it is for Black folks and other people of color to support local businesses that reflect their culture and roots. And while he doesn’t believe that Black-owned businesses should “get a pass” just because of the identity of their proprietors, it strikes him that there isn’t more of a concerted effort to support them — especially within communities of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Nigel Jones\"]“It’s important that folks recognize that there’s a role that they can play if they want to see a community that reflects them back.”[/pullquote]“On the surface, it looks like Black-owned businesses are thriving,” he says. “But most of us don’t have money in our pocket. I don’t have Wall Street or Silicon Valley friends who can front me $300,000.” A rainy day — or a series of rainy days like the ones we’ve had in February and March — could be enough to put a business under.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926853\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926853\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kendretta Rogers talks with her nephew Deandre while waiting for an order at Kingston 11. The restaurant has long been a popular gathering space for Oakland’s Black and brown communities. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Jones says, “It’s important that folks recognize that there’s a role that they can play if they want to see a community that reflects them back. So they can see Asian, brown and Black people in the front of the house, in the kitchen and behind the bar — not just washing dishes but running shit. We want to reflect to a young person who walks in the door, ‘Oh shit, there’s someone who looks like me. Maybe someday I can own my own restaurant.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Jones stresses that he sees this not as the end of the Kingston 11 story but rather a new beginning. Like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">many\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/5/11/21255078/reems-oakland-coronavirus-fruitvale-commissary-kitchen\">many\u003c/a> other restaurant owners during this pandemic, he decided that using the space as a commissary kitchen to do some combination of catering and private events would be a more sustainable business model than trying to operate as a sit-down restaurant. Front-of-house staffing, in particular, has been a challenge during this late stage of the pandemic, when so many of his longtime servers felt burned out and decided to leave the restaurant industry altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926849\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926849\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A chef, dressed in a blue chef's coat and black baseball cap, carefully plates an order of curry shrimp.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jones prepares an order of curry shrimp. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Moving forward, Jones says, the restaurant will look to expand its existing roster of corporate lunches and assorted UC Berkeley faculty and grad student events — Kingston 11’s food is especially popular among the university’s students of color, he says. If you’re planning an oxtails-and-jerk-chicken kind of wedding reception in the near future, Jones is eager to work with you (and hopefully my invitation is in the mail).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Jones says he’d like to bring Kingston 11’s food into more nontraditional dining settings — say, a senior citizens’ home or an elementary school. What would it look like for a school lunch program to replace its chicken nuggets and microwavable pizza with a Kingston 11–run menu?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926862\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926862\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of jerk chicken, served with plantains and rice and peas. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The jerk chicken — a Kingston 11 classic — will still be available at Jones’ other restaurant, Calabash. If Jones has his way, it might even make an appearance on school lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“[In this country] we invest very little in education. They don’t even want to talk about the true history of the country, much less feeding the kids — they’re too busy playing political games,” Jones says. “So how do I show up?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Nigel Jones\"]“Like they say, a house is not a home until someone is living there. A restaurant is not a community restaurant until the community shows up.”[/pullquote]The final days of Kingston 11 as a restaurant space will be business as usual, but perhaps with a few special touches. Of note, DJ Carlos — the restaurant’s longtime DJ who turned every Friday night at Kingston 11 into a reggae dance party, but has since moved to Sacramento — will be back on the decks for that final Saturday. “We’re going to have a good old-fashioned Jamaican street party, indoors,” Jones says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13910410,arts_13923936,arts_13916312']\u003c/span>As for those who are worried about the loss of Black spaces in Oakland, Jones hopes to create the same welcoming vibe at his new restaurant, Calabash, which is just a few blocks away from Kingston 11. Just this past weekend, he says, he walked into the new space and was struck by how everyone there was Black, brown or Asian. Kids were running around, and everyone just looked so comfortable, like they were hanging out in their own living room. Seeing that, Jones says, “I felt so good in my heart.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Like they say, a house is not a home until someone is living there,” he says. “A restaurant is not a community restaurant until the community shows up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926860\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926860\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt='Green restaurant facade with a sign that reads, \"Kingston 11.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant’s colorful exterior has been a easily recognizable fixture in Uptown Oakland. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Kingston 11’s last day of business will be on Sat., March 25, when it will be open noon–9 p.m. at its original location at 2270 Telegraph Ave. The restaurant’s longtime DJ, DJ Carlos, will be back on the decks for one night only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Oakland staple will close on March 25, but its Jamaican classics will live on at its sister restaurant, Calabash.",
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"twTitle": "Kingston 11’s Closure Is a Reminder To Not Take Beloved Black-Owned Businesses for Granted",
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"description": "The Oakland staple will close on March 25, but its Jamaican classics will live on at its sister restaurant, Calabash.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For 10 years now, the Jamaican oxtail stew at Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/_kingston11/\">Kingston 11\u003c/a> has been one of my go-to comfort meals — a dish whose soupy, tenderly slow-braised succulence I could always rely on to pick me up on the dreariest of days. During that timespan, the restaurant itself has been an anchor at the corner of the Telegraph and West Grand, even as the surrounding neighborhood has undergone so much change. And it has been a vibrant gathering place, from day one, for Oakland’s Black and brown communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At a certain point, it starts to feel like a cliché to talk about the diversity of Oakland’s dining scene and how much more ‘real’ its restaurants are compared to those in other cities,” I wrote when I \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/straight-outta-kingston-1/\">reviewed the restaurant\u003c/a> a few months after it opened in 2013. “But at Kingston 11, where people of color make up the majority of both the staff and the customers, and the crowd is a reasonable facsimile of Oakland itself, the point rings true.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a gut punch, then, when chef-owner Nigel Jones \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2023/3/9/23632640/kingston-11-oakland-restaurant-closing\">announced last week\u003c/a> the Jamaican standby’s last day of service as a dine-in restaurant will be Saturday, March 25. The business and brand won’t cease to exist altogether: Its most popular dishes, like those oxtails and the wonderfully smoky jerk chicken, will still be available at its more casual sister restaurant and marketplace, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/calabasheats/\">Calabash\u003c/a>, which opened in December. And Jones will keep the Kingston 11 space itself as a home base for the restaurant’s catering operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926859\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926859\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of Jamaican-style vegetable curry, served over rice and peas, on a wooden tabletop. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63784_024_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A curry vegetable dish served over rice and peas. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But for the foreseeable future, diners will no longer be able to come in and sit down for a meal — a huge loss for a city that has already experienced the loss of so many Black-centered spaces. Miss Ollie’s, the beloved Afro-Caribbean spot, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">closed this past year\u003c/a>. So did \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.org/2022/01/11/brown-sugar-kitchen-tanya-holland-closed\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When reached by phone, Jones told me that he has been keenly aware of that loss. In the week since he first announced the news, a steady stream of longtime customers has reached out to him to express their grief — to lament yet another Black-owned restaurant in Oakland going under.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Jones’ view, the closure of Kingston 11 and these other restaurants should serve as a reminder of how important it is for Black folks and other people of color to support local businesses that reflect their culture and roots. And while he doesn’t believe that Black-owned businesses should “get a pass” just because of the identity of their proprietors, it strikes him that there isn’t more of a concerted effort to support them — especially within communities of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“It’s important that folks recognize that there’s a role that they can play if they want to see a community that reflects them back.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“On the surface, it looks like Black-owned businesses are thriving,” he says. “But most of us don’t have money in our pocket. I don’t have Wall Street or Silicon Valley friends who can front me $300,000.” A rainy day — or a series of rainy days like the ones we’ve had in February and March — could be enough to put a business under.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926853\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926853\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63778_019_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kendretta Rogers talks with her nephew Deandre while waiting for an order at Kingston 11. The restaurant has long been a popular gathering space for Oakland’s Black and brown communities. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Jones says, “It’s important that folks recognize that there’s a role that they can play if they want to see a community that reflects them back. So they can see Asian, brown and Black people in the front of the house, in the kitchen and behind the bar — not just washing dishes but running shit. We want to reflect to a young person who walks in the door, ‘Oh shit, there’s someone who looks like me. Maybe someday I can own my own restaurant.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Jones stresses that he sees this not as the end of the Kingston 11 story but rather a new beginning. Like \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13910410/miss-ollies-oakland-closing\">many\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/5/11/21255078/reems-oakland-coronavirus-fruitvale-commissary-kitchen\">many\u003c/a> other restaurant owners during this pandemic, he decided that using the space as a commissary kitchen to do some combination of catering and private events would be a more sustainable business model than trying to operate as a sit-down restaurant. Front-of-house staffing, in particular, has been a challenge during this late stage of the pandemic, when so many of his longtime servers felt burned out and decided to leave the restaurant industry altogether.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926849\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926849\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A chef, dressed in a blue chef's coat and black baseball cap, carefully plates an order of curry shrimp.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63774_012_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jones prepares an order of curry shrimp. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Moving forward, Jones says, the restaurant will look to expand its existing roster of corporate lunches and assorted UC Berkeley faculty and grad student events — Kingston 11’s food is especially popular among the university’s students of color, he says. If you’re planning an oxtails-and-jerk-chicken kind of wedding reception in the near future, Jones is eager to work with you (and hopefully my invitation is in the mail).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Jones says he’d like to bring Kingston 11’s food into more nontraditional dining settings — say, a senior citizens’ home or an elementary school. What would it look like for a school lunch program to replace its chicken nuggets and microwavable pizza with a Kingston 11–run menu?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926862\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926862\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of jerk chicken, served with plantains and rice and peas. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63787_028_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The jerk chicken — a Kingston 11 classic — will still be available at Jones’ other restaurant, Calabash. If Jones has his way, it might even make an appearance on school lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“[In this country] we invest very little in education. They don’t even want to talk about the true history of the country, much less feeding the kids — they’re too busy playing political games,” Jones says. “So how do I show up?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“Like they say, a house is not a home until someone is living there. A restaurant is not a community restaurant until the community shows up.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The final days of Kingston 11 as a restaurant space will be business as usual, but perhaps with a few special touches. Of note, DJ Carlos — the restaurant’s longtime DJ who turned every Friday night at Kingston 11 into a reggae dance party, but has since moved to Sacramento — will be back on the decks for that final Saturday. “We’re going to have a good old-fashioned Jamaican street party, indoors,” Jones says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>As for those who are worried about the loss of Black spaces in Oakland, Jones hopes to create the same welcoming vibe at his new restaurant, Calabash, which is just a few blocks away from Kingston 11. Just this past weekend, he says, he walked into the new space and was struck by how everyone there was Black, brown or Asian. Kids were running around, and everyone just looked so comfortable, like they were hanging out in their own living room. Seeing that, Jones says, “I felt so good in my heart.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Like they say, a house is not a home until someone is living there,” he says. “A restaurant is not a community restaurant until the community shows up.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926860\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926860\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg\" alt='Green restaurant facade with a sign that reads, \"Kingston 11.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/RS63785_023_KQEDArts_Kingston11Restaurant_03222023-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The restaurant’s colorful exterior has been a easily recognizable fixture in Uptown Oakland. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Kingston 11’s last day of business will be on Sat., March 25, when it will be open noon–9 p.m. at its original location at 2270 Telegraph Ave. The restaurant’s longtime DJ, DJ Carlos, will be back on the decks for one night only.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Boochmania Pours Kombucha That Isn't Just for White Hippies",
"headTitle": "Boochmania Pours Kombucha That Isn’t Just for White Hippies | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kombucha, in its original form, is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayseaweeds.com/the-seaweed-source/2018/12/20/real-kombucha-is-made-from-seaweed\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a mix of hot tea (“cha”) and dried kelp (“kombu”) from northern Japan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, where the drink is still popularly consumed. Yet when we think of kombucha in California, we often envision the trope of an affluent, white, tech-working yogi.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maybe there’s \u003cem>some\u003c/em> truth to that stereotype. A 2020 article about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wellandgood.com/bipoc-owned-kombucha-brands/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the lack of diversely-represented kombucha brands\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> found that of the four brands that dominate the $1.8 billion global kombucha industry — and account for 85 percent of sales in the U.S. — “all but [one] are 100 percent white-owned.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So yes, commercial kombucha is undeniably white American–centric. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the tradition of fermentation is heavily rooted in food practices and beliefs that far predate modern capitalism and neo-hippies. Fermented ingredients — ranging from indigenous Central American elixirs like tepache and pulque to ancient concoctions from across Asia like kimchi and miso — have always been healthy for our bellies.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Simply, fermentation is the oldest technique that we know in the kitchen,” says Numan Karabiyik, a 32-year-old Turkish immigrant who co-owns San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/boochmaniasf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochmania\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “It’s a trend now that people want to get into, but it has been a conservation technique for food materials that has always sustained people [because] it can extend shelf life and increase the nutrient value for food products.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochmania is at the forefront of a small movement driven by diverse makers in the Bay Area who are making those health benefits clearer — and more flavorful — than ever to a whole new audience of kombucha lovers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926579\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926579\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks.jpg\" alt=\"The Turkish siblings who are crafting kombucha in San Francisco at Boochmania\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Karabiyik siblings, from left to right: Mustafa, Betul and Numan. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>An Ancient Technique\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a menu of fermented Mediterranean plates and fresh kombucha on tap, Boochmania opened at the end of 2022. The quaint space, which is neatly tucked along the corner of 3rd and Harrison Streets on an uphill slope, is Karabiyik’s flagship family-owned business. With the help of his older brother Mustafa and younger sister Betul (who arrived in the United States just one year ago), he keeps his fermented dreams afloat.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926578\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926578\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"an array of Polaroid photographs showing Turkish family members at Boochman Kombucha in Berkeley\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An array of photographs showing family members and friends at Boochman Kombucha, Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Karabiyik\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> began his culinary training in Izmir, Turkey, a port city that boasts the third largest population in the country. The city’s blend of Asian and Mediterranean influences helped shape his understanding of fermentation as a common, ancient practice, as did his internship at a contemporary Japanese restaurant called Zuma. There, Karabiyik picked up techniques for fermenting foods like miso and Japanese bread. “It amazed me how Japanese and Mediterranean cultures repurposed almost everything they used,” he tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Combining these newly acquired techniques with his familiarity with Turkish foods — including yogurts, syrups, breads, wines and pickled vegetables, which all involve fermentation — he grew fascinated with the yeasty sublayer of gastronomy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It wasn’t until Karabiyik relocated to the Bay Area and did an internship at San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.benusf.com/menu\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Benu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, that he learned how to make kombucha. The high-end, Michelin-starred restaurant served the beverage as a palate cleanser as part of its $375 prix fixe menu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[The process of fermenting foods and beverages] is extremely labor intensive and involves monetary resources that most immigrants don’t have,” says Karabiyik. “Many high-end restaurants in Europe and around the world have their own fermentation station or have an entire team dealing with that so the other workers can cook and do other things. If you do it wrong, your whole product can end up in the garbage.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There aren’t many immigrants, he tells me, who can afford to delve into kombucha making. But that didn’t stop him from brewing his own batches in his spare time after that initial introduction at Benu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mexican and Turkish Touches\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before Boochmania, Karabiyik and his brother entered the local kombucha game by way of Berkeley, opening \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/boochmankombucha/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochman Kombucha\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in 2019 with Denisse Padilla, a Mexican American single mother who grew up in nearby Pinole. At the time, Padilla had been looking to launch a food business and met the Karabiyik brothers while she and Mustafa were working at the International Education Center of Diablo Valley Community College for international students.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the time it opened, Boochman drew attention for being the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/8/16/20809108/kombucha-bar-berkeley-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first kombucha taproom in the Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. But the founders’ cultural influences and backgrounds largely went overlooked and underappreciated. And once the pandemic hit and supply shortages cut into their production, the taproom had to scale back on its most inventive kombucha flavors — including the ones that most clearly reflected the owners’ cultures.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926575\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926575\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing.jpg\" alt=\"chamomile kombucha fermenting in a large jar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chamomile kombucha fermenting in a large jar at Boochmania in SF. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We used to have a tamarindo flavor, which was really popular, but tamarind import stopped during COVID,” Padilla says while preparing a batch at the Berkeley location, where all of the kombucha sold at both sister businesses is produced.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With immigrant parents from the state of Chihuahua, Padilla is no stranger to Mexican classics, citing tamarindo, agua de jamaica and mangonadas as drinks she grew up with. Other Boochman flavors, like red prickly pear — or “tuna,” as it’s known in Mexico — offer subtle odes to childhood memories of her father.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“That’s hella Mexican,” she says. “It was my dad’s favorite fruit.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The flavor didn’t sell with enough frequency, so it was discontinued — along with the bay leaf and beet kombuchas. Still, there are distinct multicultural undertones in the shop’s kombucha, as well as in the small plates at the new San Francisco location (which Padilla is not formally involved with).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13917398,arts_13920057,arts_13916044']Boochman and Boochmania both serve variations of pineapple and strawberry hops kombucha, which Padilla says is inspired by agua de pina and agua de fresa. They also use a Turkish tea as the base for their kombucha, as a way to “combine our cultures,” she says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Turkey is quite famous for tea consumption,” Karabiyik tells me. “Turkish tea is a great base — it’s light.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At one point, Karabiyik also used Marash, a spicy Turkish pepper, to flavor one of his kombuchas. But he says it became too difficult to find it in the United States with the proper USDA organic certification.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> T\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hat hasn’t stopped him from infusing other Mexican and Mediterranean tastes. Current flavors that draw from the kombucha makers’ backgrounds include currant, clove and spicy mango. They’re some of the company’s best sellers, Karabiyik says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>More Than Just Kombucha\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After starting from a micro scale at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925774/new-west-oakland-farmers-market-healthy-foods-harvindar-singh\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">local farmers markets\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and small business incubators like Kitchen 812 and Certified Kitchens — where they began with a humble 15-gallon capacity per week — Padilla and the Karabiyiks have grown their business to two brick-and-mortar locations on both sides of the Bay Bridge, producing an estimated 500 gallons of kombucha per week, while also serving foods like lentil miso burgers with housemade lacto-fermented blueberry dressing over organic quinoa and seasonal veggies.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926589\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926589\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food.jpg\" alt=\"fermented foods, including kombucha and hummus, spread out on a table\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fermented foods at Boochmania in SF range from bread to hummus to kombucha. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They’re not finished, though. Beyond perfecting how to harness living colonies of bacteria and yeast to make fizzy kombucha drinks and delicious meals, the immigrant-owned businesses are expanding to include a wider range of “zero waste” products. In an effort to recycle all of their discarded materials into reusable items, they’ve started to make candles, bath salts and soaps. One candle uses leftover rose petals from the kombucha-making process while another uses pineapple discards, and both can be re-used as miniature planters afterwards.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In addition, Karabiyik is researching how to make other fermented beverages from around the world, including chicha morada, a Peruvian staple made from Andean purple corn.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I try to learn from other cultures and relate it to the fermented culture,” he says. “Now it’s a big thing and celebrities are investing in that to make money. But looking at our cultures, we already have an understanding of that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After first falling in love with kombucha on tap at Berkeley Bowl about a decade ago, Padilla is also constantly seeking ways to infuse different influences into the craft. While working at farmers markets around the region, she often surveys her customers of diverse backgrounds on what flavors they most enjoy and what ingredients they would like to see as future seasonal releases.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Along with other local businesses like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.housekombucha.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">House Kombucha\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — an Asian woman–owned operation originally based in San Leandro, whose kombucha flavors also appeal to a diverse palate — Boochman Kombucha is hoping to widen the gateway into celebrating not just kombucha, but fermented and sustainably upcycled products in general.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whenever these makers come across a new, fresh idea (currently, their “Unicorn Tail” is an original mix of horsetail tea, blue spirulina and stevia leaf) in ways that remix their various homelands, Padilla wonders: \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“How did no one think of this?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926577\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926577\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers.jpg\" alt=\"two Turkish customers celebrating kombucha and food in San Francisco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two Turkish customers celebrating kombucha and food at Boochmania, SF. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochmania (685 Harrison St., San Francisco) is open Tue. through Sat. from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Boochman Kombucha (915 University Ave., Berkeley) is open Tue. through Fri. from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Fermented tea drinks that taste like spicy mango and red prickly pear, courtesy of a family of Turkish immigrants and a local Latina.",
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"description": "Fermented tea drinks that taste like spicy mango and red prickly pear, courtesy of a family of Turkish immigrants and a local Latina.",
"title": "Boochmania Pours Kombucha That Isn't Just for White Hippies | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Kombucha, in its original form, is \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayseaweeds.com/the-seaweed-source/2018/12/20/real-kombucha-is-made-from-seaweed\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a mix of hot tea (“cha”) and dried kelp (“kombu”) from northern Japan\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, where the drink is still popularly consumed. Yet when we think of kombucha in California, we often envision the trope of an affluent, white, tech-working yogi.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maybe there’s \u003cem>some\u003c/em> truth to that stereotype. A 2020 article about \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wellandgood.com/bipoc-owned-kombucha-brands/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the lack of diversely-represented kombucha brands\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> found that of the four brands that dominate the $1.8 billion global kombucha industry — and account for 85 percent of sales in the U.S. — “all but [one] are 100 percent white-owned.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So yes, commercial kombucha is undeniably white American–centric. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the tradition of fermentation is heavily rooted in food practices and beliefs that far predate modern capitalism and neo-hippies. Fermented ingredients — ranging from indigenous Central American elixirs like tepache and pulque to ancient concoctions from across Asia like kimchi and miso — have always been healthy for our bellies.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Simply, fermentation is the oldest technique that we know in the kitchen,” says Numan Karabiyik, a 32-year-old Turkish immigrant who co-owns San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/boochmaniasf/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochmania\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “It’s a trend now that people want to get into, but it has been a conservation technique for food materials that has always sustained people [because] it can extend shelf life and increase the nutrient value for food products.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochmania is at the forefront of a small movement driven by diverse makers in the Bay Area who are making those health benefits clearer — and more flavorful — than ever to a whole new audience of kombucha lovers.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926579\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926579\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks.jpg\" alt=\"The Turkish siblings who are crafting kombucha in San Francisco at Boochmania\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_karabiyiks-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Karabiyik siblings, from left to right: Mustafa, Betul and Numan. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>An Ancient Technique\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a menu of fermented Mediterranean plates and fresh kombucha on tap, Boochmania opened at the end of 2022. The quaint space, which is neatly tucked along the corner of 3rd and Harrison Streets on an uphill slope, is Karabiyik’s flagship family-owned business. With the help of his older brother Mustafa and younger sister Betul (who arrived in the United States just one year ago), he keeps his fermented dreams afloat.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926578\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926578\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"an array of Polaroid photographs showing Turkish family members at Boochman Kombucha in Berkeley\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_interior_detail-1365x2048.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An array of photographs showing family members and friends at Boochman Kombucha, Berkeley. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Karabiyik\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> began his culinary training in Izmir, Turkey, a port city that boasts the third largest population in the country. The city’s blend of Asian and Mediterranean influences helped shape his understanding of fermentation as a common, ancient practice, as did his internship at a contemporary Japanese restaurant called Zuma. There, Karabiyik picked up techniques for fermenting foods like miso and Japanese bread. “It amazed me how Japanese and Mediterranean cultures repurposed almost everything they used,” he tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Combining these newly acquired techniques with his familiarity with Turkish foods — including yogurts, syrups, breads, wines and pickled vegetables, which all involve fermentation — he grew fascinated with the yeasty sublayer of gastronomy.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It wasn’t until Karabiyik relocated to the Bay Area and did an internship at San Francisco’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.benusf.com/menu\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Benu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, that he learned how to make kombucha. The high-end, Michelin-starred restaurant served the beverage as a palate cleanser as part of its $375 prix fixe menu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[The process of fermenting foods and beverages] is extremely labor intensive and involves monetary resources that most immigrants don’t have,” says Karabiyik. “Many high-end restaurants in Europe and around the world have their own fermentation station or have an entire team dealing with that so the other workers can cook and do other things. If you do it wrong, your whole product can end up in the garbage.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There aren’t many immigrants, he tells me, who can afford to delve into kombucha making. But that didn’t stop him from brewing his own batches in his spare time after that initial introduction at Benu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Mexican and Turkish Touches\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before Boochmania, Karabiyik and his brother entered the local kombucha game by way of Berkeley, opening \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/boochmankombucha/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochman Kombucha\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in 2019 with Denisse Padilla, a Mexican American single mother who grew up in nearby Pinole. At the time, Padilla had been looking to launch a food business and met the Karabiyik brothers while she and Mustafa were working at the International Education Center of Diablo Valley Community College for international students.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At the time it opened, Boochman drew attention for being the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/8/16/20809108/kombucha-bar-berkeley-bay-area\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">first kombucha taproom in the Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. But the founders’ cultural influences and backgrounds largely went overlooked and underappreciated. And once the pandemic hit and supply shortages cut into their production, the taproom had to scale back on its most inventive kombucha flavors — including the ones that most clearly reflected the owners’ cultures.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926575\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926575\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing.jpg\" alt=\"chamomile kombucha fermenting in a large jar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_brewing-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chamomile kombucha fermenting in a large jar at Boochmania in SF. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We used to have a tamarindo flavor, which was really popular, but tamarind import stopped during COVID,” Padilla says while preparing a batch at the Berkeley location, where all of the kombucha sold at both sister businesses is produced.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With immigrant parents from the state of Chihuahua, Padilla is no stranger to Mexican classics, citing tamarindo, agua de jamaica and mangonadas as drinks she grew up with. Other Boochman flavors, like red prickly pear — or “tuna,” as it’s known in Mexico — offer subtle odes to childhood memories of her father.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“That’s hella Mexican,” she says. “It was my dad’s favorite fruit.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The flavor didn’t sell with enough frequency, so it was discontinued — along with the bay leaf and beet kombuchas. Still, there are distinct multicultural undertones in the shop’s kombucha, as well as in the small plates at the new San Francisco location (which Padilla is not formally involved with).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Boochman and Boochmania both serve variations of pineapple and strawberry hops kombucha, which Padilla says is inspired by agua de pina and agua de fresa. They also use a Turkish tea as the base for their kombucha, as a way to “combine our cultures,” she says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Turkey is quite famous for tea consumption,” Karabiyik tells me. “Turkish tea is a great base — it’s light.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At one point, Karabiyik also used Marash, a spicy Turkish pepper, to flavor one of his kombuchas. But he says it became too difficult to find it in the United States with the proper USDA organic certification.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> T\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hat hasn’t stopped him from infusing other Mexican and Mediterranean tastes. Current flavors that draw from the kombucha makers’ backgrounds include currant, clove and spicy mango. They’re some of the company’s best sellers, Karabiyik says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>More Than Just Kombucha\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After starting from a micro scale at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13925774/new-west-oakland-farmers-market-healthy-foods-harvindar-singh\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">local farmers markets\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and small business incubators like Kitchen 812 and Certified Kitchens — where they began with a humble 15-gallon capacity per week — Padilla and the Karabiyiks have grown their business to two brick-and-mortar locations on both sides of the Bay Bridge, producing an estimated 500 gallons of kombucha per week, while also serving foods like lentil miso burgers with housemade lacto-fermented blueberry dressing over organic quinoa and seasonal veggies.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926589\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926589\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food.jpg\" alt=\"fermented foods, including kombucha and hummus, spread out on a table\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_food-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fermented foods at Boochmania in SF range from bread to hummus to kombucha. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They’re not finished, though. Beyond perfecting how to harness living colonies of bacteria and yeast to make fizzy kombucha drinks and delicious meals, the immigrant-owned businesses are expanding to include a wider range of “zero waste” products. In an effort to recycle all of their discarded materials into reusable items, they’ve started to make candles, bath salts and soaps. One candle uses leftover rose petals from the kombucha-making process while another uses pineapple discards, and both can be re-used as miniature planters afterwards.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In addition, Karabiyik is researching how to make other fermented beverages from around the world, including chicha morada, a Peruvian staple made from Andean purple corn.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I try to learn from other cultures and relate it to the fermented culture,” he says. “Now it’s a big thing and celebrities are investing in that to make money. But looking at our cultures, we already have an understanding of that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After first falling in love with kombucha on tap at Berkeley Bowl about a decade ago, Padilla is also constantly seeking ways to infuse different influences into the craft. While working at farmers markets around the region, she often surveys her customers of diverse backgrounds on what flavors they most enjoy and what ingredients they would like to see as future seasonal releases.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Along with other local businesses like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.housekombucha.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">House Kombucha\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> — an Asian woman–owned operation originally based in San Leandro, whose kombucha flavors also appeal to a diverse palate — Boochman Kombucha is hoping to widen the gateway into celebrating not just kombucha, but fermented and sustainably upcycled products in general.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whenever these makers come across a new, fresh idea (currently, their “Unicorn Tail” is an original mix of horsetail tea, blue spirulina and stevia leaf) in ways that remix their various homelands, Padilla wonders: \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“How did no one think of this?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926577\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926577\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers.jpg\" alt=\"two Turkish customers celebrating kombucha and food in San Francisco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/boochmania_customers-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two Turkish customers celebrating kombucha and food at Boochmania, SF. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-12904247 aligncenter\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Boochmania (685 Harrison St., San Francisco) is open Tue. through Sat. from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Boochman Kombucha (915 University Ave., Berkeley) is open Tue. through Fri. from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Abi Balingit's Dessert Cookbook Is a Love Letter to the Bay Area's Filipino Bakeries",
"headTitle": "Abi Balingit’s Dessert Cookbook Is a Love Letter to the Bay Area’s Filipino Bakeries | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>Growing up, I assumed fruit custard was a uniquely Indian food, no different than khichdi or palak paneer. Chilled fruit custard, sweetened with apples, bananas and grapes, made frequent appearances at my mother’s dinner parties, indistinguishable from other milky Indian desserts like kheer or shrikhand. I never saw anything similar to it in American restaurants or at my white friends’ houses: How could I guess it was anything other than Indian?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Oh my god, I thought the same thing about fruit salad and Filipinos,” confesses \u003ca href=\"https://theduskykitchen.com/\">blogger\u003c/a>, baker and recipe developer extraordinaire Abi Balingit. We are chatting about her new memoir-cum-cookbook \u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780063244061\">\u003ci>Mayumu\u003c/i>: \u003ci>Filipino American Desserts Remixed\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>,\u003c/i> which documents the sweets she ate and made growing up in the Bay Area’s thriving Filipino communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our fruit salad has canned fruit, too, but we add more Filipino stuff like coconut jellies and sugar palm fruit, so I always thought it was 100 percent Filipino,” Balingit says. “Another product of colonialism and imperialism for sure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our respective fruit salads and custards reflect a bizarre quirk of history, where the legacy of colonization and globalization has influenced our food to the point where the term “fusion” doesn’t really mean much. Asian cooking has \u003ci>been \u003c/i>fused with Western culture. So why not make, say, a baked Alaska with ube ice cream — the tantalizing dessert displayed on the cover of \u003ci>Mayumu\u003c/i>? Or a jello salad buko pandan?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926636\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926636\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover.jpg\" alt='Cover of a cookbook with a photo of a slice of baked Alaska with ube ice cream on the inside. Text reads, \"Mayumu, Filipino American Desserts Remixed.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"2469\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-800x1029.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-1020x1312.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-160x206.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-768x988.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-1194x1536.jpg 1194w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-1593x2048.jpg 1593w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cookbook was published by HarperCollins in February 2023. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of HarperCollins)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Obviously, growing up in America, the desserts are cupcakes, cakes and cookies — and these are things in the Philippines, too,” says Balingit. “I went to Seafood City or the small Filipino market and saw coco pie and ube pie, but at the same time I went to Safeway or Albertson’s and saw, like, Hostess and Little Debbie’s. There was nothing weird about it to me, there was no sense of foreignness or discomfort.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Balingit, \u003ci>Mayumu\u003c/i> isn’t just a cookbook. It is a snapshot of growing up Filipino American in California. While the book exhaustively covers how to make every Filipino dessert one is likely to find behind the glass case at a Union City bakery — from bibingka to pandesal to kutsinta – Balingit adds little elements drawn from the porous, pan-Asian culture of the Bay. Her bibingka, for example, is topped with melted White Rabbit candies, which she fondly remembers coveting at 99 Ranch, while her pastillas, a chewy candy made from condensed milk, are flavored with matcha powder, that boba-shop staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is split into five parts, each named after towns Balingit resided in and accompanied by short reflections about what each location meant to her. Balingit was born in San Jose, moved to Stockton when she was six years old, went to UC Berkeley for college and finally flew off to New York City for work. The sequencing of the recipes tracks Balingit’s development as a baker: Early parts of the book cover Filipino classics like puto and biko, done relatively simply, while later parts show off her matured virtuosity and broader cultural horizons — leche flan infused with chai, cookies flavored with karekare or adobo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926637\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926637\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of cookbook author Abi Balingit, who wears a colorful apron that matches her pink and green hair.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2238\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-800x933.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-1020x1189.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-160x187.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-768x895.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-1318x1536.jpg 1318w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-1757x2048.jpg 1757w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Balingit spent her formative years in San Jose and Stockton.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s not always a forward arc. Sometimes, Balingit doubles back. She puts her basic pandesal recipe in the fourth chapter, set in Brooklyn. After leaving the Bay’s plentiful Filipino bakeries behind, she had little choice but to make the bread on her own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Bakeries are so essential for daily life,” says Balingit, wistfully. “Growing up, I don’t think my parents made pandesal ever; I would be surprised if anyone in San Jose or Stockton did. The bakeries do such a good job already.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Mayumu \u003c/i>is littered with references to Bay Area Filipino bakeries — the famous chains \u003ca href=\"https://www.goldilocks-usa.com/\">Goldilocks\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://valeriostropicalbakeshop.com/\">Valerio’s\u003c/a> in particular get big shoutouts — that innovated with items like monggo-swirled brioche loaves and ube tres leches cakes. And the Fil-Am urge for baked goods and candy doesn’t just stop at strictly Filipino joints. Balingit also pays tribute to Costco madeleines and poppy seed muffins, gas station Twinkies and even Midwestern Buckeye candies, introduced to a young Balingit by a friend studying at Ohio State University. All done, of course, with a Filipino twist: The madeleines are lychee flavored, the Twinkies use Filipino mamon instead of sponge cake, the Buckeyes swap out fudge for yema (a Filipino egg custard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926638\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926638\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of madeleines topped with dried rose petals and a purple-pink hibiscus glaze.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2347\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-800x978.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-1020x1247.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-160x196.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-768x939.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-1257x1536.jpg 1257w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-1675x2048.jpg 1675w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Balingit’s madeleines are flavored with lychee and have a hibiscus tea glaze. \u003ccite>(Nico Schinco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Despite the legacy of generations of Asian American pastry chefs working in places like Valerio’s, very few have had the opportunity to write at length about their work. Balingit and I ended our conversation trying to come up with previous books in this niche, but we couldn’t think of any. Hours of additional Googling on my part only turned up a scant few: Aileen Chung Belshe’s hard-to-find \u003ci>Hawaiian Sweets, Treats And Eats\u003c/i>, Pichet Ong’s \u003ci>Sweet Spot\u003c/i> and Kristina Cho’s recently released \u003ci>Mooncakes and Milk Bread\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13919707,arts_13924997,arts_13896138']“It wasn’t smooth sailing trying to get this book sold to a publisher,” Balingit admits. “99 percent of publishers said no because it was so niche — not just a Filipino American cookbook, but a dessert cookbook as well. It shouldn’t be like that. Nobody would bat an eye if this was an Italian American dessert book.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, Balingit connected with a Korean American editor at Harvest, an imprint of HarperCollins, who took a chance on her work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It sucks, but that’s the beauty of all these new diaspora cookbooks coming out,” says Balingit. “Hopefully we’re breaking the mold a bit and making it easier for people to justify why their foods matter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>To promote \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780063244061\">Mayumu\u003c/a>\u003ci>, Balingit is hosting meet-and-greets at Omnivore Books (3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco) on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cpxqxe6u0fc/\">\u003ci>Sat., March 25\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and the San Francisco Public Library’s Excelsior branch (4400 Mission St., San Francisco) on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://sfpl.org/events/2023/03/26/author-abi-balingit-mayumu\">\u003ci>Sunday, March 26\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Growing up, I assumed fruit custard was a uniquely Indian food, no different than khichdi or palak paneer. Chilled fruit custard, sweetened with apples, bananas and grapes, made frequent appearances at my mother’s dinner parties, indistinguishable from other milky Indian desserts like kheer or shrikhand. I never saw anything similar to it in American restaurants or at my white friends’ houses: How could I guess it was anything other than Indian?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Oh my god, I thought the same thing about fruit salad and Filipinos,” confesses \u003ca href=\"https://theduskykitchen.com/\">blogger\u003c/a>, baker and recipe developer extraordinaire Abi Balingit. We are chatting about her new memoir-cum-cookbook \u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780063244061\">\u003ci>Mayumu\u003c/i>: \u003ci>Filipino American Desserts Remixed\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>,\u003c/i> which documents the sweets she ate and made growing up in the Bay Area’s thriving Filipino communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our fruit salad has canned fruit, too, but we add more Filipino stuff like coconut jellies and sugar palm fruit, so I always thought it was 100 percent Filipino,” Balingit says. “Another product of colonialism and imperialism for sure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our respective fruit salads and custards reflect a bizarre quirk of history, where the legacy of colonization and globalization has influenced our food to the point where the term “fusion” doesn’t really mean much. Asian cooking has \u003ci>been \u003c/i>fused with Western culture. So why not make, say, a baked Alaska with ube ice cream — the tantalizing dessert displayed on the cover of \u003ci>Mayumu\u003c/i>? Or a jello salad buko pandan?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926636\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926636\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover.jpg\" alt='Cover of a cookbook with a photo of a slice of baked Alaska with ube ice cream on the inside. Text reads, \"Mayumu, Filipino American Desserts Remixed.\"' width=\"1920\" height=\"2469\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-800x1029.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-1020x1312.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-160x206.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-768x988.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-1194x1536.jpg 1194w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Mayumu-cover-1593x2048.jpg 1593w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The cookbook was published by HarperCollins in February 2023. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of HarperCollins)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Obviously, growing up in America, the desserts are cupcakes, cakes and cookies — and these are things in the Philippines, too,” says Balingit. “I went to Seafood City or the small Filipino market and saw coco pie and ube pie, but at the same time I went to Safeway or Albertson’s and saw, like, Hostess and Little Debbie’s. There was nothing weird about it to me, there was no sense of foreignness or discomfort.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Balingit, \u003ci>Mayumu\u003c/i> isn’t just a cookbook. It is a snapshot of growing up Filipino American in California. While the book exhaustively covers how to make every Filipino dessert one is likely to find behind the glass case at a Union City bakery — from bibingka to pandesal to kutsinta – Balingit adds little elements drawn from the porous, pan-Asian culture of the Bay. Her bibingka, for example, is topped with melted White Rabbit candies, which she fondly remembers coveting at 99 Ranch, while her pastillas, a chewy candy made from condensed milk, are flavored with matcha powder, that boba-shop staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is split into five parts, each named after towns Balingit resided in and accompanied by short reflections about what each location meant to her. Balingit was born in San Jose, moved to Stockton when she was six years old, went to UC Berkeley for college and finally flew off to New York City for work. The sequencing of the recipes tracks Balingit’s development as a baker: Early parts of the book cover Filipino classics like puto and biko, done relatively simply, while later parts show off her matured virtuosity and broader cultural horizons — leche flan infused with chai, cookies flavored with karekare or adobo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926637\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926637\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of cookbook author Abi Balingit, who wears a colorful apron that matches her pink and green hair.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2238\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-800x933.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-1020x1189.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-160x187.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-768x895.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-1318x1536.jpg 1318w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Abi-Balingit-author-photo-1757x2048.jpg 1757w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Balingit spent her formative years in San Jose and Stockton.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s not always a forward arc. Sometimes, Balingit doubles back. She puts her basic pandesal recipe in the fourth chapter, set in Brooklyn. After leaving the Bay’s plentiful Filipino bakeries behind, she had little choice but to make the bread on her own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Bakeries are so essential for daily life,” says Balingit, wistfully. “Growing up, I don’t think my parents made pandesal ever; I would be surprised if anyone in San Jose or Stockton did. The bakeries do such a good job already.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Mayumu \u003c/i>is littered with references to Bay Area Filipino bakeries — the famous chains \u003ca href=\"https://www.goldilocks-usa.com/\">Goldilocks\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://valeriostropicalbakeshop.com/\">Valerio’s\u003c/a> in particular get big shoutouts — that innovated with items like monggo-swirled brioche loaves and ube tres leches cakes. And the Fil-Am urge for baked goods and candy doesn’t just stop at strictly Filipino joints. Balingit also pays tribute to Costco madeleines and poppy seed muffins, gas station Twinkies and even Midwestern Buckeye candies, introduced to a young Balingit by a friend studying at Ohio State University. All done, of course, with a Filipino twist: The madeleines are lychee flavored, the Twinkies use Filipino mamon instead of sponge cake, the Buckeyes swap out fudge for yema (a Filipino egg custard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13926638\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13926638\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of madeleines topped with dried rose petals and a purple-pink hibiscus glaze.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2347\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-800x978.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-1020x1247.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-160x196.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-768x939.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-1257x1536.jpg 1257w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2023/03/Lychee-Madeleines-with-Hibiscus-Tea-Glaze-Dried-Rose-Petals-c-Nico-Schinco_edit-1675x2048.jpg 1675w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Balingit’s madeleines are flavored with lychee and have a hibiscus tea glaze. \u003ccite>(Nico Schinco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Despite the legacy of generations of Asian American pastry chefs working in places like Valerio’s, very few have had the opportunity to write at length about their work. Balingit and I ended our conversation trying to come up with previous books in this niche, but we couldn’t think of any. Hours of additional Googling on my part only turned up a scant few: Aileen Chung Belshe’s hard-to-find \u003ci>Hawaiian Sweets, Treats And Eats\u003c/i>, Pichet Ong’s \u003ci>Sweet Spot\u003c/i> and Kristina Cho’s recently released \u003ci>Mooncakes and Milk Bread\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“It wasn’t smooth sailing trying to get this book sold to a publisher,” Balingit admits. “99 percent of publishers said no because it was so niche — not just a Filipino American cookbook, but a dessert cookbook as well. It shouldn’t be like that. Nobody would bat an eye if this was an Italian American dessert book.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luckily, Balingit connected with a Korean American editor at Harvest, an imprint of HarperCollins, who took a chance on her work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It sucks, but that’s the beauty of all these new diaspora cookbooks coming out,” says Balingit. “Hopefully we’re breaking the mold a bit and making it easier for people to justify why their foods matter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>To promote \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780063244061\">Mayumu\u003c/a>\u003ci>, Balingit is hosting meet-and-greets at Omnivore Books (3885 Cesar Chavez St., San Francisco) on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cpxqxe6u0fc/\">\u003ci>Sat., March 25\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci> and the San Francisco Public Library’s Excelsior branch (4400 Mission St., San Francisco) on \u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://sfpl.org/events/2023/03/26/author-abi-balingit-mayumu\">\u003ci>Sunday, March 26\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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