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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Despite the coronavirus outbreak's disturbances to daily life, fresh fruits and vegetables are still making their way to farmers markets and community supported agriculture (CSA) boxes. S\u003c/span>ome national grocery store chains might be facing temporary shortages, but local food sources with shorter supply chains have stayed nimble and in demand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Last] Monday, we just started getting an influx of messages and emails asking if people could buy directly from us,” says Helena Sylvester, who runs \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyacrefarm.com/csa2020\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Happy Acre Farm\u003c/a> in Sunol along with her husband. “Our plan was to not start our CSA until June and only sell to restaurants until that happened.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sylvester's plans changed when the farm’s restaurant sales decreased, as many eateries closed their doors once California's shelter-in-place orders mandated take out-only service. “We decided to divert that produce to people instead,” she explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B975U9HgYQt/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Today the family-owned and -operated farm supplies around 20 boxes a week on a first come, first served basis, and they can be picked up at the farm or a drop-off site in Oakland. Sylvester says the demand is much higher than when Happy Acre was only supplying to restaurants. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Farms] seem like they're either switching to a farm box or, if they already had one, creating more room in there for new members,” notes Sylvester, who has seen many other small farmers adjusting their business models in recent days. “And it seems like there's almost not enough farms for the demand. A lot of people have waiting lists going.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Berkeley’s\u003ca href=\"https://ecologycenter.org/fm/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> Ecology Center\u003c/a>, which runs three farmers markets, is committed to keeping all of them open through the coronavirus crisis. In accordance with new guidelines from the California Department of Public Health, their markets, along with others throughout the Bay Area, have installed new safety measures, including stoppage on produce sampling, increased hand-washing and sanitizing stations and social distancing rules. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It's kind of above and beyond what you'd even see probably at a grocery store,” said Carle Brinkman, the food and farming program director at the Ecology Center. Brinkman explains that each farmer serves one customer at a time, and a designated person handles payment away from the produce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136585\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Social distancing guidelines and additional hand washing stations are one of the ways farmers markets like CUESA have adapted to the coronavirus pandemic. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-1020x683.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Social distancing guidelines and additional hand washing stations are one of the ways farmers markets like CUESA have adapted to the coronavirus pandemic. \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Customers are also asked to go into vendor areas one at a time and line up six feet apart as they wait to pay. “We're marking out those six-feet-apart spaces with either chalk or tape or cones to ensure the social distancing,” she says, adding that enforcing social distancing has proven to be the most challenging aspect so far. Ecology Center is also waiving all penalties for vendors who call in sick for the duration of the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/article/cuesa%E2%80%99s-guide-farmers-market-food-pickup-and-delivery\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">CUESA\u003c/a>, whose San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers Market remains open, is taking similar public health precautions. (CUESA’s Jack London Square Farmers Market is currently on hold through May 1o, and their Mission Community Market returns from winter hiatus on April 9.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Our priority is really to make sure that our community is well fed,” says Brie Mazurek, the communications director at CUESA. “There's so much amazing produce in California, so many family farms. We don't want to see any produce sitting in the fields right now when there are hungry people who need to eat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mazurek noted that open-air farmers markets can easily adapt to social distance-friendly layouts. “There's a lot more room to walk around and maneuver and create space. Especially as some of our vendors have had to opt out,” she says. “It's also just a much shorter supply chain for people. In terms of how this food is getting from the field to the market. There are fewer hands handling it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though restaurant accounts have significantly dwindled, CUESA, Ecology Center and other farmers markets are sorting out how to effectively and safely get fresh produce and pantry items to the surge of people who are cooking at home. “Farmers markets and small and midsize farmers that sell there are poised for resiliency in that they can potentially pivot more quickly to a different business model,” says Brinkman. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The one thing that they're not set up for in terms of resiliency is federal funding,” she continues. “They're often forgotten because they're a smaller size slice of the pie.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136583\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Many small farmers across the state depend on farmers markets and restaurants orders that have depleted since shelter-in-place was instituted.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-1020x683.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many small farmers across the state depend on farmers markets and restaurants orders that have depleted since shelter-in-place was instituted. \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a local level, Ecology Center, a leading member of the California Alliance of Farmers Markets, is advocating that local officials keep farmers markets open as an essential service across California counties that have invoked stricter measures than the state. Farmers markets in Pleasanton and the Peninsula in the \u003ca href=\"https://pcfma.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Pacific Coast Farmers Market Association\u003c/a> network have temporarily closed, for instance, while others in the South Bay recently reopened after a short hiatus. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They're essential for the livelihood of farmers and really essential healthy food access points for the community,” explains Brinkman, emphasizing that CalFresh (formerly known as food stamps) customers rely on farmers markets for fresh produce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Federal efforts are also underway by the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://farmersmarketcoalition.org/farmers-markets-covid19/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Farmers Market Coalition\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a national group that advocated that federal dollars from the stimulus package go to small and mid-sized farmers. The $2 trillion dollar bill, which the president signed into law, has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/27/us/politics/coronavirus-stimulus-bill-farmers.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">$9.5 billion set aside\u003c/a> for “agricultural producers impacted by coronavirus, including producers of specialty crops, producers that supply local food systems, including farmers markets, restaurants, and schools, and livestock producers, including dairy producers.” Distribution of those funds remains to be seen. [aside postid='bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136541,bayareabites_136504' label='More Food Stories']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> “In this time of crisis, maintaining local food systems and ensuring that small and midsize farmers can be viable, and remain, and aren't bought up, feels absolutely essential to the long term health and wellbeing of the Bay Area, the state and the country,” Brinkman says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back at Happy Acre Farm, Sylvester and her husband are preparing to plant squashes, melons, early girl tomatoes for a summer harvest enough for at least 50 weekly CSA boxes. “We're hoping that this spike in interest and demand for regional food sourced straight from the grower isn’t a one time emergency purchase. We're going to plant for it like it's the new normal,” she shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“As awful as this entire thing has been to watch, watching the resilience of the farmers and their creativity has been really remarkable.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“[Farms] seem like they're either switching to a farm box or, if they already had one, creating more room in there for new members,” notes Sylvester, who has seen many other small farmers adjusting their business models in recent days. “And it seems like there's almost not enough farms for the demand. A lot of people have waiting lists going.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Berkeley’s\u003ca href=\"https://ecologycenter.org/fm/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> Ecology Center\u003c/a>, which runs three farmers markets, is committed to keeping all of them open through the coronavirus crisis. In accordance with new guidelines from the California Department of Public Health, their markets, along with others throughout the Bay Area, have installed new safety measures, including stoppage on produce sampling, increased hand-washing and sanitizing stations and social distancing rules. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“It's kind of above and beyond what you'd even see probably at a grocery store,” said Carle Brinkman, the food and farming program director at the Ecology Center. Brinkman explains that each farmer serves one customer at a time, and a designated person handles payment away from the produce.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136585\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Social distancing guidelines and additional hand washing stations are one of the ways farmers markets like CUESA have adapted to the coronavirus pandemic. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_3_KQED-1020x683.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Social distancing guidelines and additional hand washing stations are one of the ways farmers markets like CUESA have adapted to the coronavirus pandemic. \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Customers are also asked to go into vendor areas one at a time and line up six feet apart as they wait to pay. “We're marking out those six-feet-apart spaces with either chalk or tape or cones to ensure the social distancing,” she says, adding that enforcing social distancing has proven to be the most challenging aspect so far. Ecology Center is also waiving all penalties for vendors who call in sick for the duration of the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/article/cuesa%E2%80%99s-guide-farmers-market-food-pickup-and-delivery\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">CUESA\u003c/a>, whose San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers Market remains open, is taking similar public health precautions. (CUESA’s Jack London Square Farmers Market is currently on hold through May 1o, and their Mission Community Market returns from winter hiatus on April 9.) \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Our priority is really to make sure that our community is well fed,” says Brie Mazurek, the communications director at CUESA. “There's so much amazing produce in California, so many family farms. We don't want to see any produce sitting in the fields right now when there are hungry people who need to eat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mazurek noted that open-air farmers markets can easily adapt to social distance-friendly layouts. “There's a lot more room to walk around and maneuver and create space. Especially as some of our vendors have had to opt out,” she says. “It's also just a much shorter supply chain for people. In terms of how this food is getting from the field to the market. There are fewer hands handling it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though restaurant accounts have significantly dwindled, CUESA, Ecology Center and other farmers markets are sorting out how to effectively and safely get fresh produce and pantry items to the surge of people who are cooking at home. “Farmers markets and small and midsize farmers that sell there are poised for resiliency in that they can potentially pivot more quickly to a different business model,” says Brinkman. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The one thing that they're not set up for in terms of resiliency is federal funding,” she continues. “They're often forgotten because they're a smaller size slice of the pie.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136583\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Many small farmers across the state depend on farmers markets and restaurants orders that have depleted since shelter-in-place was instituted.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/CUESAFerryBuilding_2_KQED-1020x683.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Many small farmers across the state depend on farmers markets and restaurants orders that have depleted since shelter-in-place was instituted. \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a local level, Ecology Center, a leading member of the California Alliance of Farmers Markets, is advocating that local officials keep farmers markets open as an essential service across California counties that have invoked stricter measures than the state. Farmers markets in Pleasanton and the Peninsula in the \u003ca href=\"https://pcfma.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Pacific Coast Farmers Market Association\u003c/a> network have temporarily closed, for instance, while others in the South Bay recently reopened after a short hiatus. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They're essential for the livelihood of farmers and really essential healthy food access points for the community,” explains Brinkman, emphasizing that CalFresh (formerly known as food stamps) customers rely on farmers markets for fresh produce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Federal efforts are also underway by the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://farmersmarketcoalition.org/farmers-markets-covid19/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Farmers Market Coalition\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a national group that advocated that federal dollars from the stimulus package go to small and mid-sized farmers. The $2 trillion dollar bill, which the president signed into law, has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/27/us/politics/coronavirus-stimulus-bill-farmers.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">$9.5 billion set aside\u003c/a> for “agricultural producers impacted by coronavirus, including producers of specialty crops, producers that supply local food systems, including farmers markets, restaurants, and schools, and livestock producers, including dairy producers.” Distribution of those funds remains to be seen. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> “In this time of crisis, maintaining local food systems and ensuring that small and midsize farmers can be viable, and remain, and aren't bought up, feels absolutely essential to the long term health and wellbeing of the Bay Area, the state and the country,” Brinkman says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back at Happy Acre Farm, Sylvester and her husband are preparing to plant squashes, melons, early girl tomatoes for a summer harvest enough for at least 50 weekly CSA boxes. “We're hoping that this spike in interest and demand for regional food sourced straight from the grower isn’t a one time emergency purchase. We're going to plant for it like it's the new normal,” she shares. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“As awful as this entire thing has been to watch, watching the resilience of the farmers and their creativity has been really remarkable.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'A Lot of Pressure': Bay Area Restaurants Search for Safety Net in Light of COVID-19",
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"content": "\u003cp>Restaurant owners and workers across the Bay Area are contending with a new reality brought on by local recommendations around\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11805625/coronavirus-in-the-bay-area-your-questions-answered\"> COVID-19\u003c/a> containment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, they braced for fewer customers, fewer shifts and reduced tips. And in the coming week, they'll need to re-adjust once more as governor Gavin Newsom called for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11806871/newsom-calls-for-closure-of-all-bars-in-an-effort-to-increase-social-distancing\">closure of all bars, wineries and breweries\u003c/a> on Sunday. The governor also directed that restaurants limit their occupancy to 50% in order to promote social distancing and curb new infections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As inherently social, public-facing businesses, restaurants and bars stand to be impacted heavily by the economic repercussions of COVID-19's spread. The majority of their hourly workers are not protected by sick leave and other benefits. County and city-wide policies are also specifying Newsom’s directives with their own further restrictions, with Los Angeles limiting restaurants to take-out only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Last Thursday at Anula’s Cafe, a downtown Oakland breakfast and lunch favorite, owner and chef Anula Edirisinghe served up her salmon curry, a daily special from her Sri Lankan and West Indian menu. Inside of the bite-sized cafe, Edirisinghe employs one other person besides herself, and her daughter occasionally comes by the cafe to help as well. She said she had a particularly slow day last Tuesday and was hoping Thursday wouldn’t bring more of the same. “I usually make a day like four to five hundred, but that day [I made] like a hundred dollars,” she said. “It’s nothing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though Anula’s Cafe is mostly takeout, Edirisinghe will undoubtedly feel the ebbs and flows of her business, as she also pays rent at a commissary kitchen where the food is prepared. The chef remains optimistic—although less so about the prospect of the city of Oakland helping small business owners like herself. “You have to support small business. You have to support like a low income people, you know? And they only think about the stock market,” she said.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, the city of Oakland has set up an \u003ca href=\"https://www.oaklandca.gov/resources/coronavirus-2019-covid-19-business-and-worker-resources\">online resource page\u003c/a> for workers and small business owners outlining programs at federal, state and local levels. Significant among those is the state of California's\u003ca href=\"https://www.edd.ca.gov/about_edd/coronavirus-2019/faqs.htm\"> waiving of the one week, unpaid\u003c/a> waiting period for unemployment qualification. At the city level, Oakland is waiving penalties for business taxes that were due on March 1, 2020 by request.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136432\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136432\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-800x1067.jpeg\" alt=\"L Sok manages their family's lunchtime spot, Garden House, and is bracing for economic hardship under COVID-19. \" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">L Sok manages their family's lunch time spot, Garden House, and is bracing for economic hardship under COVID-19. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Just a few blocks away, another lunch favorite open since 1991, Garden House, has braced for the possibilities of life under COVID-19. “The safety net is just the fact that I'm young and healthy and that if somebody needs to take time off for their own safety and their own health, that I would have to fill in,” shared L Sok, who works at Garden House alongside their two friends, their mother and their aunt. “I'm working with my elders here, [our] priority is to make sure that they're healthy and that they're not over here risking their lives to make an hourly wage,” Sok continued. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2014, Sok’s older sibling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135968/life-after-pop-up-oaklands-lovelys-and-san-franciscos-chicano-nuevo-seek-permanence\">Terry Sok-Wolfson\u003c/a> bought the business for their mom, who had worked there since 1992. Adding to the financial pressure of running a restaurant is an extensive and costly renovation that forced a two-and-a-half-year closure of the eatery. Since reopening last fall, the revamped Garden House serves as a hub housing Aburaya’s takeout branch and a weekend and evening pop-up from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Gay 4 U,\u003c/a> a vegan comfort food operation by Sofi Espice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136434\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136434\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Last Thursday afternoon, Garden House in downtown Oakland looked to be business as usual, but under new restriction by Gov. Newsom, restaurants are to limit their capacity to half. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Last Thursday afternoon, Garden House in downtown Oakland looked to be business as usual but under new restriction by Gov. Newsom, restaurants are to limit their capacity to half. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Similarly to Edirisinghe, Sok isn’t certain the city of Oakland will be of sufficient support as the duress from COVID-19 persists on small businesses. “If we have to be closed for a week to make sure that we're not spreading the virus and that nobody in our space contracts it, if the city could ease up and give us some funding so that we can continue to survive, that would be great,” they said. “If we didn't have to pay rent to the developers who developed this building, that would be great.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We're not working for random employers who will take advantage of us,” Sok reflected about working with family and friends. \"But it puts a lot of pressure on all of us in the family to figure it out and make it work.\"\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Restaurant owners and workers across the Bay Area are contending with a new reality brought on by local recommendations around\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11805625/coronavirus-in-the-bay-area-your-questions-answered\"> COVID-19\u003c/a> containment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, they braced for fewer customers, fewer shifts and reduced tips. And in the coming week, they'll need to re-adjust once more as governor Gavin Newsom called for the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11806871/newsom-calls-for-closure-of-all-bars-in-an-effort-to-increase-social-distancing\">closure of all bars, wineries and breweries\u003c/a> on Sunday. The governor also directed that restaurants limit their occupancy to 50% in order to promote social distancing and curb new infections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As inherently social, public-facing businesses, restaurants and bars stand to be impacted heavily by the economic repercussions of COVID-19's spread. The majority of their hourly workers are not protected by sick leave and other benefits. County and city-wide policies are also specifying Newsom’s directives with their own further restrictions, with Los Angeles limiting restaurants to take-out only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Last Thursday at Anula’s Cafe, a downtown Oakland breakfast and lunch favorite, owner and chef Anula Edirisinghe served up her salmon curry, a daily special from her Sri Lankan and West Indian menu. Inside of the bite-sized cafe, Edirisinghe employs one other person besides herself, and her daughter occasionally comes by the cafe to help as well. She said she had a particularly slow day last Tuesday and was hoping Thursday wouldn’t bring more of the same. “I usually make a day like four to five hundred, but that day [I made] like a hundred dollars,” she said. “It’s nothing.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though Anula’s Cafe is mostly takeout, Edirisinghe will undoubtedly feel the ebbs and flows of her business, as she also pays rent at a commissary kitchen where the food is prepared. The chef remains optimistic—although less so about the prospect of the city of Oakland helping small business owners like herself. “You have to support small business. You have to support like a low income people, you know? And they only think about the stock market,” she said.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, the city of Oakland has set up an \u003ca href=\"https://www.oaklandca.gov/resources/coronavirus-2019-covid-19-business-and-worker-resources\">online resource page\u003c/a> for workers and small business owners outlining programs at federal, state and local levels. Significant among those is the state of California's\u003ca href=\"https://www.edd.ca.gov/about_edd/coronavirus-2019/faqs.htm\"> waiving of the one week, unpaid\u003c/a> waiting period for unemployment qualification. At the city level, Oakland is waiving penalties for business taxes that were due on March 1, 2020 by request.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136432\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136432\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-800x1067.jpeg\" alt=\"L Sok manages their family's lunchtime spot, Garden House, and is bracing for economic hardship under COVID-19. \" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-800x1067.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-160x213.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-768x1024.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/LSok_GardenHouse_Oakland-1020x1360.jpeg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">L Sok manages their family's lunch time spot, Garden House, and is bracing for economic hardship under COVID-19. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Just a few blocks away, another lunch favorite open since 1991, Garden House, has braced for the possibilities of life under COVID-19. “The safety net is just the fact that I'm young and healthy and that if somebody needs to take time off for their own safety and their own health, that I would have to fill in,” shared L Sok, who works at Garden House alongside their two friends, their mother and their aunt. “I'm working with my elders here, [our] priority is to make sure that they're healthy and that they're not over here risking their lives to make an hourly wage,” Sok continued. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2014, Sok’s older sibling \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135968/life-after-pop-up-oaklands-lovelys-and-san-franciscos-chicano-nuevo-seek-permanence\">Terry Sok-Wolfson\u003c/a> bought the business for their mom, who had worked there since 1992. Adding to the financial pressure of running a restaurant is an extensive and costly renovation that forced a two-and-a-half-year closure of the eatery. Since reopening last fall, the revamped Garden House serves as a hub housing Aburaya’s takeout branch and a weekend and evening pop-up from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Gay 4 U,\u003c/a> a vegan comfort food operation by Sofi Espice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136434\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136434\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Last Thursday afternoon, Garden House in downtown Oakland looked to be business as usual, but under new restriction by Gov. Newsom, restaurants are to limit their capacity to half. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/GardenHouse_Oakland-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Last Thursday afternoon, Garden House in downtown Oakland looked to be business as usual but under new restriction by Gov. Newsom, restaurants are to limit their capacity to half. \u003ccite>(Bianca Taylor)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Similarly to Edirisinghe, Sok isn’t certain the city of Oakland will be of sufficient support as the duress from COVID-19 persists on small businesses. “If we have to be closed for a week to make sure that we're not spreading the virus and that nobody in our space contracts it, if the city could ease up and give us some funding so that we can continue to survive, that would be great,” they said. “If we didn't have to pay rent to the developers who developed this building, that would be great.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We're not working for random employers who will take advantage of us,” Sok reflected about working with family and friends. \"But it puts a lot of pressure on all of us in the family to figure it out and make it work.\"\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_121670' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_1466.jpg' 'label='A Guide To The East Bay's Cooperative Food Businesses']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After more than a year of closure, Arizmendi’s in Emeryville is open for business again. In December of 2018, a car collided with the worker-owned bakery’s rear wall, causing a fire and subsequent water damage. Two weeks ago, Arizmendi’s soft-opened its newly renovated shop to the joy of regulars who’d passed by the shuttered business for the last 15 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We are fully operational at the moment but we have a few things missing,” shares baker and co-owner De’Quan Guion. “No one seems to be complaining though. Everyone’s so happy we’re just open.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, many customers were openly overjoyed, walking in with greetings and welcoming back the staff. “I’m really glad they reopened,” sighed a customer finishing a slice. Her neighbor had told her the bakery was back in business. “Everybody comes here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B8y8B-WBvyq/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened in 2003, the bakery is one of five independently operating worker-owned sister bakeries serving up coffee, sweet and savory pastries, and their signature daily pizza and soups. During their year of closure, the Emeryville Arizmendi’s 16 baker-owners, ranging from two to 17 years in tenure, met monthly to plot their return. During that process, they were able to pay themselves using funds from the business’s savings and insurance, as well as a GoFundMe campaign that raised almost $14,000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If this would’ve happened to another bakery, it just would’ve been over with. Since this is our bakery and that was our money, we were able to make decisions on what we wanted to do with it,” Guion says. “It wasn’t just one person [saying] ‘Okay, that’s the end of the bakery, we’re not going to pay them.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners also decided to take this opportunity to renovate the bakery. “We all made the floor plan ourselves,” Guion explains. “We were able to say what we wanted to see changed. Everyone’s input got heard.” Part of the renovations include a brand new oven, a new customer area that includes a shallow bar wide enough for coffee and pastries, and new pastry cases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In neighboring Berkeley and across the bridge in San Francisco, workers at Tartine Bakery outputs have been \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11800580/workers-at-4-tartine-bakery-outlets-move-to-unionize-citing-high-cost-of-bay-area-living\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">organizing to unionize\u003c/a> across the bakery’s four locations. Partly citing the Bay Area’s ever-increasing cost of living, Tartine’s employees are hoping to stabilize their employment at the popular bakery chain where, from their standpoint, staff retention hasn’t been a priority. The employees demands and their request for a union has been declined by Tartine management who have \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/TartineUnion/status/1232134197600509952\">recently hired\u003c/a> prominent union-busting firm, Cruz and Associates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B8hjZXUh9xk/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/guionmusic/\">Guion\u003c/a>, who’s been at Arizmendi for six years, took the time off to work on his creative pursuits. “I sing and I do music and it gave me a chance to work on my first single,” he says. “I have a song coming out probably in the beginning of March.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the year of closure at the Emeryville Arizmendi, one owner-baker left. Another worker, a prospect who was four months into his candidacy when the fire happened, was paid his agreed-upon share through the business’s closure and renovation. He’s since quit the job he took on to supplement his income during the closure, and to return to Arizmendi’s and continue his candidacy in hopes of become an owner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If I do have questions or concerns, there’s so much support here,” says Guion, who has worked across several popular bakeries in the East Bay. “You’re not left in the dark.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_121670' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_1466.jpg' 'label='A Guide To The East Bay's Cooperative Food Businesses']\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Five years since its founding, Oakland roastery Red Bay Coffee is making big moves with an expansion to Los Angeles this spring. Located in the city’s Jefferson Park neighborhood, Red Bay’s new roastery and coffee shop will lead the coffee company’s national expansion in 2020.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_117350,bayareabites_133282,bayareabites_130682' label='More coffee roasting in the Bay']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“L.A. makes sense because it is a gateway to the rest of the nation,” says founder Keba Konte. He notes that Los Angeles is experiencing a coffee rush with major coffee brands from across the nation opening up shop in the city. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Konte, a visual artist and community organizer who established his coffee career co-founding North Berkeley’s Guerilla Café in 2005 and San Francisco’s Chasing Lions Café in 2012 credits his early ventures with helping him clarify the vision for Red Bay. “It showed me the limitation of a coffee shop,” he explains. “Or better yet, it gave me an understanding of the potential in coffee roasting.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6TN9cFh9gS/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The level of infrastructure that it takes to be a coffee roaster, it almost demands that there's some level of scale involved,” Konte says of Red Bay’s growth. “I suppose we could've opened a roaster and supplied the Bay Area but the vision was always much larger.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2014, Konte founded Red Bay Coffee with a coffee stand in downtown Oakland and a public roastery in the Fruitvale which doubles as a community space, holding film screenings, concerts and markets for local vendors. “What we’ve done with the public roastery [in the Fruitvale] is the blueprint for what we'll be doing in Los Angeles on an even larger scale,” he says of the 11,000-square-foot building and lot Red Bay is in the process of purchasing. “We will have a performance venue, we will have a coffee shop and a factory all co-mingling together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136057\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136057\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg\" alt=\"A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood\" width=\"1920\" height=\"898\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-800x374.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-768x359.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1020x477.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1200x561.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood \u003ccite>(courtesy of Red Bay Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Backing Red Bay’s impressive expansion is a series A funding that’s raised $5 million with more coming. “That is a model of fundraising that is built around any business that is planning to scale large,” Konte says of the venture capital model. “We were able to identify and connect with capital that was also mission-driven and believes in what we want to do,” he adds. Valuing growth at a sustainable pace, Konte also notes the growth trajectory of is driven internally by him. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While also eyeing Philadelphia, Los Angeles’ appeal to Konte is also the opportunity to provide coffee, community space and employment opportunities for the diverse neighborhood of Jefferson Park. “Everyone is welcome to Red Bay Coffee. We hope everyone enjoys our coffee and the experiences that we provide,” he says, adding: “In particular, we're creating spaces and experiences and products that are culturally geared towards people of color, black people in particular.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The level of infrastructure that it takes to be a coffee roaster, it almost demands that there's some level of scale involved,” Konte says of Red Bay’s growth. “I suppose we could've opened a roaster and supplied the Bay Area but the vision was always much larger.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2014, Konte founded Red Bay Coffee with a coffee stand in downtown Oakland and a public roastery in the Fruitvale which doubles as a community space, holding film screenings, concerts and markets for local vendors. “What we’ve done with the public roastery [in the Fruitvale] is the blueprint for what we'll be doing in Los Angeles on an even larger scale,” he says of the 11,000-square-foot building and lot Red Bay is in the process of purchasing. “We will have a performance venue, we will have a coffee shop and a factory all co-mingling together.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136057\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136057\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg\" alt=\"A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood\" width=\"1920\" height=\"898\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-800x374.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-768x359.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1020x477.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/RB_LA-RENDERING-WHITE-1200x561.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A digital rendering of the Red Bay Coffee space coming this Spring to South L.A.'s Jefferson Park neighborhood \u003ccite>(courtesy of Red Bay Coffee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Backing Red Bay’s impressive expansion is a series A funding that’s raised $5 million with more coming. “That is a model of fundraising that is built around any business that is planning to scale large,” Konte says of the venture capital model. “We were able to identify and connect with capital that was also mission-driven and believes in what we want to do,” he adds. Valuing growth at a sustainable pace, Konte also notes the growth trajectory of is driven internally by him. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While also eyeing Philadelphia, Los Angeles’ appeal to Konte is also the opportunity to provide coffee, community space and employment opportunities for the diverse neighborhood of Jefferson Park. “Everyone is welcome to Red Bay Coffee. We hope everyone enjoys our coffee and the experiences that we provide,” he says, adding: “In particular, we're creating spaces and experiences and products that are culturally geared towards people of color, black people in particular.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>For people who live in food deserts, getting groceries can be a real challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a 2009 U.S. Department of Agriculture \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/webdocs/publications/42711/12716_ap036_1_.pdf?v=41055\">report\u003c/a>, about 2.3 million people in the United States live more than a mile away from a supermarket and don't have reliable vehicle access. If they don't own a car, they have to find a ride, take public transit, walk or bike to the closest store. The trip takes time, money and energy — and can be especially taxing for people who are older or who have physical disabilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a \u003ca href=\"https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamanetworkopen/fullarticle/2756107\">new analysis\u003c/a> from researchers at Yale University suggests that one service already in place in many of these areas could help make it easier to access fresh, healthy food: online grocery delivery. And it lends support to expanding a \u003ca href=\"https://www.usda.gov/media/press-releases/2019/04/18/usda-launches-snap-online-purchasing-pilot\">pilot program\u003c/a> that lets people use their benefits from the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program — aka food stamps — to pay for those groceries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For individuals using SNAP, there's been a lot of bad rap about the quality of food that they purchase, and there's not been a lot of focus on trying to support individuals getting better-quality diets that has been successful,\" says lead researcher \u003ca href=\"https://medicine.yale.edu/profile/eric_brandt/\">Eric J. Brandt\u003c/a>, national clinician scholar at Yale University's School of Medicine. \"So I really hope that this is part of that pathway towards better quality and better health.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study, which was published by JAMA Network Open this month, looked at eight states in which SNAP recipients can \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/06/26/736181304/using-food-stamps-for-online-grocery-shopping-is-getting-easier\">use\u003c/a> their benefits to buy groceries online as part of the USDA pilot program: Alabama, Iowa, Maryland, Nebraska, New Jersey, New York, Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within these states, the study found that nearly 93% of SNAP-eligible households in urban food deserts were located in areas that fully qualified for grocery delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandt hopes the study is one step in finding more applicable solutions for people living in areas with high rates of food insecurity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What is already in place as a potential mechanism to improve their access to quality foods? Delivery, definitely,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the study, Brandt looked at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/03/13/174112591/how-to-find-a-food-desert-near-you\">USDA's Food Access Research Atlas\u003c/a> to find census tracts for areas classified as food deserts. Then he compared these results with all the stores that accept SNAP and also deliver to those locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while urban food deserts were overwhelmingly covered by delivery services offered through companies such as Instacart, Peapod and ShopRite, the results in rural areas were not nearly as promising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of the 59 rural census tracts analyzed, zero qualified for full grocery delivery. Thirty percent of them were partially deliverable to, and 69.5% of the tracts were not deliverable to at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The difference between partial and full delivery, Brandt explains, is a discrepancy in the two sets of data — while food deserts are measured by census tracts, delivery is determined by ZIP code.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're mutually exclusive, and they don't define each other,\" he says. \"So that's why there's this middle category of partially deliverable, because some of the ZIP codes that were in the census tract for the food desert had delivery, but other ZIP codes in that same census tract did not.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is also the challenge of paying for the delivery itself. As of now, SNAP benefits in participating states can be used to purchase food online but not to pay for delivery fees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie Companey, the director of grocery marketing at \u003ca href=\"https://valassis.com/\">Valassis\u003c/a>, a firm that conducts market-specific research, says that ordering groceries through a service like Instacart could lead to a potential upmark in prices compared with the costs in stores. But for some SNAP recipients, the convenience of ordering online may still outweigh these hurdles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Companey points to a 2017 \u003ca href=\"https://blog.fieldagent.net/food-stamps-users-surveyed-about-bopis-grocery-delivery\">survey\u003c/a> of SNAP recipients crowdsourced by Field Agent, a retail-auditing firm, in which 51% of respondents said they were \"completely likely\" to buy groceries online for pickup or delivery if given the option, even with additional delivery fees. The top three reasons respondents gave for choosing to order online were convenience, being able to pay for their groceries without other shoppers seeing they were using SNAP benefits and, for parents, not having to navigate the grocery store with their kids in tow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandt says there's hope that these additional cost challenges, like delivery fees, can be addressed through the pilot program in the future. For now, he says the study is proof that maybe allowing more SNAP recipients to turn to online grocery delivery could mean an overall increase in the quality of food they're putting on the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pilot program will run for two years, until April 2021, at which point it will undergo review to ensure that all online transactions are secure and run without technical difficulties. The USDA \u003ca href=\"https://www.fns.usda.gov/pressrelease/2017/fns-000117\">hopes\u003c/a> to eventually expand the program nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For people who live in food deserts, getting groceries can be a real challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a 2009 U.S. Department of Agriculture \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/webdocs/publications/42711/12716_ap036_1_.pdf?v=41055\">report\u003c/a>, about 2.3 million people in the United States live more than a mile away from a supermarket and don't have reliable vehicle access. If they don't own a car, they have to find a ride, take public transit, walk or bike to the closest store. The trip takes time, money and energy — and can be especially taxing for people who are older or who have physical disabilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a \u003ca href=\"https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamanetworkopen/fullarticle/2756107\">new analysis\u003c/a> from researchers at Yale University suggests that one service already in place in many of these areas could help make it easier to access fresh, healthy food: online grocery delivery. And it lends support to expanding a \u003ca href=\"https://www.usda.gov/media/press-releases/2019/04/18/usda-launches-snap-online-purchasing-pilot\">pilot program\u003c/a> that lets people use their benefits from the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program — aka food stamps — to pay for those groceries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For individuals using SNAP, there's been a lot of bad rap about the quality of food that they purchase, and there's not been a lot of focus on trying to support individuals getting better-quality diets that has been successful,\" says lead researcher \u003ca href=\"https://medicine.yale.edu/profile/eric_brandt/\">Eric J. Brandt\u003c/a>, national clinician scholar at Yale University's School of Medicine. \"So I really hope that this is part of that pathway towards better quality and better health.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study, which was published by JAMA Network Open this month, looked at eight states in which SNAP recipients can \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/06/26/736181304/using-food-stamps-for-online-grocery-shopping-is-getting-easier\">use\u003c/a> their benefits to buy groceries online as part of the USDA pilot program: Alabama, Iowa, Maryland, Nebraska, New Jersey, New York, Oregon and Washington.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within these states, the study found that nearly 93% of SNAP-eligible households in urban food deserts were located in areas that fully qualified for grocery delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandt hopes the study is one step in finding more applicable solutions for people living in areas with high rates of food insecurity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What is already in place as a potential mechanism to improve their access to quality foods? Delivery, definitely,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the study, Brandt looked at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/03/13/174112591/how-to-find-a-food-desert-near-you\">USDA's Food Access Research Atlas\u003c/a> to find census tracts for areas classified as food deserts. Then he compared these results with all the stores that accept SNAP and also deliver to those locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while urban food deserts were overwhelmingly covered by delivery services offered through companies such as Instacart, Peapod and ShopRite, the results in rural areas were not nearly as promising.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of the 59 rural census tracts analyzed, zero qualified for full grocery delivery. Thirty percent of them were partially deliverable to, and 69.5% of the tracts were not deliverable to at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The difference between partial and full delivery, Brandt explains, is a discrepancy in the two sets of data — while food deserts are measured by census tracts, delivery is determined by ZIP code.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're mutually exclusive, and they don't define each other,\" he says. \"So that's why there's this middle category of partially deliverable, because some of the ZIP codes that were in the census tract for the food desert had delivery, but other ZIP codes in that same census tract did not.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is also the challenge of paying for the delivery itself. As of now, SNAP benefits in participating states can be used to purchase food online but not to pay for delivery fees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie Companey, the director of grocery marketing at \u003ca href=\"https://valassis.com/\">Valassis\u003c/a>, a firm that conducts market-specific research, says that ordering groceries through a service like Instacart could lead to a potential upmark in prices compared with the costs in stores. But for some SNAP recipients, the convenience of ordering online may still outweigh these hurdles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Companey points to a 2017 \u003ca href=\"https://blog.fieldagent.net/food-stamps-users-surveyed-about-bopis-grocery-delivery\">survey\u003c/a> of SNAP recipients crowdsourced by Field Agent, a retail-auditing firm, in which 51% of respondents said they were \"completely likely\" to buy groceries online for pickup or delivery if given the option, even with additional delivery fees. The top three reasons respondents gave for choosing to order online were convenience, being able to pay for their groceries without other shoppers seeing they were using SNAP benefits and, for parents, not having to navigate the grocery store with their kids in tow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brandt says there's hope that these additional cost challenges, like delivery fees, can be addressed through the pilot program in the future. For now, he says the study is proof that maybe allowing more SNAP recipients to turn to online grocery delivery could mean an overall increase in the quality of food they're putting on the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pilot program will run for two years, until April 2021, at which point it will undergo review to ensure that all online transactions are secure and run without technical difficulties. The USDA \u003ca href=\"https://www.fns.usda.gov/pressrelease/2017/fns-000117\">hopes\u003c/a> to eventually expand the program nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence",
"title": "Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence",
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"content": "\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_127083,bayareabites_133040' label='More pop-ups around the Bay']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BybOwFYB9y2/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"bayareabites_135485,checkplease_20198\" label='Gay 4 U is Reborn and Aburaya is on Check, Please!']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6DTBmmBmFk/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Many shoppers have heard about the high environmental costs of palm oil. Take, for example, the fact that much of Indonesia’s lush rainforests have been cleared to plant palm fruit trees, causing a steep \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/20/magazine/palm-oil-borneo-climate-catastrophe.html\">spike in carbon emissions\u003c/a> and destroying habitats that were home to endangered species such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/10/palm-oil-orangutans-multinationals-promises-deforestation\">the orangutan\u003c/a>. But many consumers also likely assume that buying products made with organic palm oil eliminates those costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic seal doesn’t guarantee that rainforests were not destroyed in order to produce palm oil—or any other raw ingredient. That’s because of a loophole in the USDA organic standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134729']“You can look on a lot of organic [food] packaging and see that palm oil is used, and we as consumers have no idea [whether its production involved deforestation],” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildfarmalliance.org/\">Wild Farm Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same conundrum applies to the recent Amazon fires, she adds. Farmers who want to grow organic crops “could burn down the forest and get certification the next day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether in Indonesia, the Amazon, or here in the U.S., USDA organic regulations mandate that farmers must “maintain or improve the natural resources” on their farms, but there is no written requirement that addresses the natural resources that existed \u003cem>before\u003c/em> the farm was established.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the standards do require that conventional farmland cannot be certified until it has been farmed without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for three years. In some places, that three-year transition—in which the farm often has greater costs and sees a drop in yields—has essentially created an unwritten economic incentive to clear untouched ecosystems. In other words, if land that has never been farmed can be certified right away, it’s more profitable to farm that to wait three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many farmers choose to grow food organically because they believe in the environmental and health benefits and consider the destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise. But as organic has become big business, companies that are in it for the higher profits have often pounced on shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now, we basically encourage [ecosystem destruction in the name of organic],” said Harriet Behar, an organic farmer, educator, and current member of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). “It’s incredibly important that we protect… the last of these pristine and incredibly diverse and important ecosystems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few years, the NOSB, which advises the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) on changes to the regulations, has been working to fix that loophole. In 2018, it \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/CACSNativeEcosystems.pdf\">passed a formal recommendation\u003c/a> on “Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production,” but NOP has not moved forward on taking it through the rulemaking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under President Trump’s administration, there has been considerable friction between the organic industry and the NOP, which has been moving very few NOSB recommendations forward and has reversed course on some issues. It \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/12/18/years-in-the-making-trumps-usda-kills-organic-animal-welfare-rules/\">reversed a widely supported update\u003c/a> to animal welfare rules for organic meat production, for example, and slowed down an update to \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">a rule affecting small dairy farmers\u003c/a> by reopening it for comment rather than finalizing it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s not clear when or if the ecosystem loophole will get addressed, advocacy and industry organizations are working in the meantime on projects to help organic farmers maintain natural ecosystems and increase biodiversity on the land they’re already farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Grappling with Unintended Consequences\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>According to Baumgartner, NOSB members brought up the issue of ecosystem destruction for organic production as early as 2009. However, the Wild Farm Alliance began leading the charge to address the issue within the last few years, and it was on the NOSB agenda for three meetings in 2017 and 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003ca href=\"https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/286/attachments/original/1501526136/WFA___Partner_NOSB_Comments_3.30.17_%282%29.pdf?1501526136\">comments\u003c/a> provided to the NOSB, Wild Farm Alliance provided examples of situations that demonstrated the need to close the loophole, referencing reports and anonymous comments from individuals in its network.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_121110']“This summer I witnessed the tilling of native short grass prairie in the western Colorado Plains…to grow corn, milo, and wheat,” one organic inspector said. “In most cases the farmers are conventional farmers who are trying their hand at organic agriculture since they don’t have a conversion period.” Another comment described wetlands being drained and converted to organic vegetable production in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fix that NOSB ultimately proposed was that if land that included native ecosystems was cleared for farming, it would not be eligible for organic certification for 10 years, a waiting period the board hoped would disincentivize the practice since it was much longer than the three-year period for converting conventional farmland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many issues invoke intense disagreement within the organic industry, the vast majority of individuals who submitted written comments and spoke at meetings supported the proposal. The diverse group of organizations included Consumers Union, the National Wildlife Federation, and the \u003ca href=\"https://ota.com/\">Organic Trade Association (OTA)\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There was support for this recommendation on the principle that organic farming should not result in destruction of native ecosystems. That’s the baseline, agreeable position,” said OTA farm policy director Johanna Mirenda. But OTA was one of many groups that had concerns related to the potential economic impact on small organic farms, particularly small dairies in the Northeastern U.S. that border forested areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These farmers are not choosing to log land because the conversion period is faster… it’s the only land that is available for them to expand onto,” said Britt Lundgren, the director of organic and sustainable agriculture at Stonyfield, at the Spring 2018 NOSB meeting. “The primary threat to the health of native ecosystems in the northeast is not agriculture. It’s development.” And if a farmer can’t develop the land themselves, they may sell to a developer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If organic agriculture is going to remain a viable business in the Northeast in the face of immense development pressure, organic farms need to be able to expand in the most efficient way,” Lundgren added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maine organic farmer Jim Gerritsen also testified at the spring 2018 meeting, and his main concern was whether the rule change would allow the USDA to prevent farms like his from clearing forested land on their properties that had been farmed before but had grown back in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_126036']On his 56-acre farm, Gerritsen cleared 37 acres of trees off of land that had been farmed in the 1960s. “We simply want to take the trees off of it and farm it. I know there are other farms in Maine in that situation, and they don’t have enough farmland to be viable,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gerritson calls the idea of preventing native ecosystems from destruction “a laudable concept,” he adds, “sometimes when you come up with a policy on a macro level, it works against the reality of the farm.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since most of the land owned by these farmers in the Northeast had been previously farmed, NOSB devised with a compromise: It updated the language in the new rule to define “native ecosystems” in a more specific way that they say will mean the 10-year waiting period would not apply to farmers like Gerritson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while other organic programs around the world have passed outright bans on converting native ecosystems, NOSB saw the 10-year waiting period as a way to make sure the rule did not discourage transitioning to organic more generally, especially since vulnerable ecosystems are routinely cleared to be farmed conventionally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a farmer could buy land that had been previously cleared of a native ecosystem and was then farmed using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. If that farmer wanted to switch to organic and gain certification, an outright ban on that land ever being certified organic would prevent that. A 10-year waiting period would not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There needed to be a strong disincentive, but not so far that it could deter organic production altogether,” said the OTA’s Mirenda. “The ultimate goal is to have more organic production.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After updates to the language were made, the NOSB voted nearly unanimously in May 2018 to pass the Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production recommendation. After a recommendation is made, it is NOP’s job to put it on the rulemaking agenda, develop a proposed rule, open it up for public comment, and then develop a final rule that incorporates those comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Fostering On-Farm Ecosystems\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>When asked about the recommendation, a USDA spokesperson told Civil Eats that the issue of native ecosystems isn’t currently on the rulemaking agenda and that the agency is primarily focused on the Strengthening Organic Enforcement and the \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">Origin of Livestock\u003c/a> proposed rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some advocates, meanwhile, are working to strengthen the organic standard’s provisions on on-farm ecosystem preservation and natural resource stewardship in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, Wild Farm Alliance, located in Watsonville, California, near a number of large organic produce growers, worked on writing guidance that would help certifiers better evaluate whether organic farms are meeting the requirement to “maintain or improve the natural resources of the operation, including soil and water quality,” and the NOP \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/NOP%205020%20Biodiversity%20Guidance%20Rev01%20%28Final%29.pdf\">published that guidance\u003c/a> in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In collaboration with the Organic Center, it also recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/biodiversitytool/\">created a tool\u003c/a> that farmers and certifiers can use to track and improve biodiversity on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_51586']“There are all kinds of studies showing that having more natural habitat in the agricultural landscape will increase beneficial biodiversity,” said Amber Sciligo, the manager of science programs at \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/\">The Organic Center\u003c/a>, a non-profit organic research organization. And, she adds, more biodiversity on or beside the farm is known to be beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, one recent \u003ca href=\"https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/5/10/eaax0121\">study\u003c/a> found that more abundance and diversity of insects was associated with increased crop yields. Another \u003ca href=\"https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1365-2664.13422\">study\u003c/a> found that increased biodiversity leads to larger bird populations on farms, and that while some birds can act as pests, they can also control other, smaller pests. Balancing the needs of different species—including some that may not benefit the farm in a simple or obvious way—is part of organic’s promise. And yet when it’s taken seriously, it pays off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Overall what we’re seeing at a regional level is that in most situations, the gains [of biodiversity]outweigh the costs,” said Sciligo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the farmers who truly believe in and implement organic production methods live that reality day after day, Baumgartner said, which is one reason to ensure that the higher price point doesn’t inadvertently incentivize environmental destruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are many farms that have native ecosystems on their property that they’ve never destroyed,” she added. “We were hearing farmers say, ‘It isn’t fair that somebody else can cut down a native ecosystem. We’ve been conserving ours.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Some advocates are working to close a loophole that they say has created unintended consequences, including destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Many shoppers have heard about the high environmental costs of palm oil. Take, for example, the fact that much of Indonesia’s lush rainforests have been cleared to plant palm fruit trees, causing a steep \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/20/magazine/palm-oil-borneo-climate-catastrophe.html\">spike in carbon emissions\u003c/a> and destroying habitats that were home to endangered species such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/10/palm-oil-orangutans-multinationals-promises-deforestation\">the orangutan\u003c/a>. But many consumers also likely assume that buying products made with organic palm oil eliminates those costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic seal doesn’t guarantee that rainforests were not destroyed in order to produce palm oil—or any other raw ingredient. That’s because of a loophole in the USDA organic standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“You can look on a lot of organic [food] packaging and see that palm oil is used, and we as consumers have no idea [whether its production involved deforestation],” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildfarmalliance.org/\">Wild Farm Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same conundrum applies to the recent Amazon fires, she adds. Farmers who want to grow organic crops “could burn down the forest and get certification the next day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether in Indonesia, the Amazon, or here in the U.S., USDA organic regulations mandate that farmers must “maintain or improve the natural resources” on their farms, but there is no written requirement that addresses the natural resources that existed \u003cem>before\u003c/em> the farm was established.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the standards do require that conventional farmland cannot be certified until it has been farmed without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for three years. In some places, that three-year transition—in which the farm often has greater costs and sees a drop in yields—has essentially created an unwritten economic incentive to clear untouched ecosystems. In other words, if land that has never been farmed can be certified right away, it’s more profitable to farm that to wait three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many farmers choose to grow food organically because they believe in the environmental and health benefits and consider the destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise. But as organic has become big business, companies that are in it for the higher profits have often pounced on shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now, we basically encourage [ecosystem destruction in the name of organic],” said Harriet Behar, an organic farmer, educator, and current member of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). “It’s incredibly important that we protect… the last of these pristine and incredibly diverse and important ecosystems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few years, the NOSB, which advises the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) on changes to the regulations, has been working to fix that loophole. In 2018, it \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/CACSNativeEcosystems.pdf\">passed a formal recommendation\u003c/a> on “Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production,” but NOP has not moved forward on taking it through the rulemaking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under President Trump’s administration, there has been considerable friction between the organic industry and the NOP, which has been moving very few NOSB recommendations forward and has reversed course on some issues. It \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/12/18/years-in-the-making-trumps-usda-kills-organic-animal-welfare-rules/\">reversed a widely supported update\u003c/a> to animal welfare rules for organic meat production, for example, and slowed down an update to \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">a rule affecting small dairy farmers\u003c/a> by reopening it for comment rather than finalizing it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s not clear when or if the ecosystem loophole will get addressed, advocacy and industry organizations are working in the meantime on projects to help organic farmers maintain natural ecosystems and increase biodiversity on the land they’re already farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Grappling with Unintended Consequences\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>According to Baumgartner, NOSB members brought up the issue of ecosystem destruction for organic production as early as 2009. However, the Wild Farm Alliance began leading the charge to address the issue within the last few years, and it was on the NOSB agenda for three meetings in 2017 and 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003ca href=\"https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/286/attachments/original/1501526136/WFA___Partner_NOSB_Comments_3.30.17_%282%29.pdf?1501526136\">comments\u003c/a> provided to the NOSB, Wild Farm Alliance provided examples of situations that demonstrated the need to close the loophole, referencing reports and anonymous comments from individuals in its network.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“This summer I witnessed the tilling of native short grass prairie in the western Colorado Plains…to grow corn, milo, and wheat,” one organic inspector said. “In most cases the farmers are conventional farmers who are trying their hand at organic agriculture since they don’t have a conversion period.” Another comment described wetlands being drained and converted to organic vegetable production in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fix that NOSB ultimately proposed was that if land that included native ecosystems was cleared for farming, it would not be eligible for organic certification for 10 years, a waiting period the board hoped would disincentivize the practice since it was much longer than the three-year period for converting conventional farmland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many issues invoke intense disagreement within the organic industry, the vast majority of individuals who submitted written comments and spoke at meetings supported the proposal. The diverse group of organizations included Consumers Union, the National Wildlife Federation, and the \u003ca href=\"https://ota.com/\">Organic Trade Association (OTA)\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There was support for this recommendation on the principle that organic farming should not result in destruction of native ecosystems. That’s the baseline, agreeable position,” said OTA farm policy director Johanna Mirenda. But OTA was one of many groups that had concerns related to the potential economic impact on small organic farms, particularly small dairies in the Northeastern U.S. that border forested areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These farmers are not choosing to log land because the conversion period is faster… it’s the only land that is available for them to expand onto,” said Britt Lundgren, the director of organic and sustainable agriculture at Stonyfield, at the Spring 2018 NOSB meeting. “The primary threat to the health of native ecosystems in the northeast is not agriculture. It’s development.” And if a farmer can’t develop the land themselves, they may sell to a developer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If organic agriculture is going to remain a viable business in the Northeast in the face of immense development pressure, organic farms need to be able to expand in the most efficient way,” Lundgren added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maine organic farmer Jim Gerritsen also testified at the spring 2018 meeting, and his main concern was whether the rule change would allow the USDA to prevent farms like his from clearing forested land on their properties that had been farmed before but had grown back in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>On his 56-acre farm, Gerritsen cleared 37 acres of trees off of land that had been farmed in the 1960s. “We simply want to take the trees off of it and farm it. I know there are other farms in Maine in that situation, and they don’t have enough farmland to be viable,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gerritson calls the idea of preventing native ecosystems from destruction “a laudable concept,” he adds, “sometimes when you come up with a policy on a macro level, it works against the reality of the farm.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since most of the land owned by these farmers in the Northeast had been previously farmed, NOSB devised with a compromise: It updated the language in the new rule to define “native ecosystems” in a more specific way that they say will mean the 10-year waiting period would not apply to farmers like Gerritson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while other organic programs around the world have passed outright bans on converting native ecosystems, NOSB saw the 10-year waiting period as a way to make sure the rule did not discourage transitioning to organic more generally, especially since vulnerable ecosystems are routinely cleared to be farmed conventionally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a farmer could buy land that had been previously cleared of a native ecosystem and was then farmed using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. If that farmer wanted to switch to organic and gain certification, an outright ban on that land ever being certified organic would prevent that. A 10-year waiting period would not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There needed to be a strong disincentive, but not so far that it could deter organic production altogether,” said the OTA’s Mirenda. “The ultimate goal is to have more organic production.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After updates to the language were made, the NOSB voted nearly unanimously in May 2018 to pass the Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production recommendation. After a recommendation is made, it is NOP’s job to put it on the rulemaking agenda, develop a proposed rule, open it up for public comment, and then develop a final rule that incorporates those comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Fostering On-Farm Ecosystems\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>When asked about the recommendation, a USDA spokesperson told Civil Eats that the issue of native ecosystems isn’t currently on the rulemaking agenda and that the agency is primarily focused on the Strengthening Organic Enforcement and the \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">Origin of Livestock\u003c/a> proposed rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some advocates, meanwhile, are working to strengthen the organic standard’s provisions on on-farm ecosystem preservation and natural resource stewardship in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, Wild Farm Alliance, located in Watsonville, California, near a number of large organic produce growers, worked on writing guidance that would help certifiers better evaluate whether organic farms are meeting the requirement to “maintain or improve the natural resources of the operation, including soil and water quality,” and the NOP \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/NOP%205020%20Biodiversity%20Guidance%20Rev01%20%28Final%29.pdf\">published that guidance\u003c/a> in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In collaboration with the Organic Center, it also recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/biodiversitytool/\">created a tool\u003c/a> that farmers and certifiers can use to track and improve biodiversity on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“There are all kinds of studies showing that having more natural habitat in the agricultural landscape will increase beneficial biodiversity,” said Amber Sciligo, the manager of science programs at \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/\">The Organic Center\u003c/a>, a non-profit organic research organization. And, she adds, more biodiversity on or beside the farm is known to be beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, one recent \u003ca href=\"https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/5/10/eaax0121\">study\u003c/a> found that more abundance and diversity of insects was associated with increased crop yields. Another \u003ca href=\"https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1365-2664.13422\">study\u003c/a> found that increased biodiversity leads to larger bird populations on farms, and that while some birds can act as pests, they can also control other, smaller pests. Balancing the needs of different species—including some that may not benefit the farm in a simple or obvious way—is part of organic’s promise. And yet when it’s taken seriously, it pays off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Overall what we’re seeing at a regional level is that in most situations, the gains [of biodiversity]outweigh the costs,” said Sciligo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the farmers who truly believe in and implement organic production methods live that reality day after day, Baumgartner said, which is one reason to ensure that the higher price point doesn’t inadvertently incentivize environmental destruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are many farms that have native ecosystems on their property that they’ve never destroyed,” she added. “We were hearing farmers say, ‘It isn’t fair that somebody else can cut down a native ecosystem. We’ve been conserving ours.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>This op-ed originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/12/16/787793287/opinion-obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-cutting-snap-benefits-may-worsen-bo\">NPR Food\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Elsa Pearson, MPH, is a senior policy analyst at Boston University School of Public Health. She's on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/epearsonbusph?lang=en\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">@epearsonbusph\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest grocery store is a few miles away and your paycheck doesn't clear until Friday. You even skipped lunch. With no car, only a few dollars and kids at home, you decide dinner will have to, yet again, be the local fast food restaurant within walking distance. It's cost effective, but you're already bracing for the \"healthy weight\" conversation at the pediatrician's next month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/food-nutrition-assistance/food-security-in-the-us/key-statistics-graphics.aspx#foodsecure\">11\u003c/a>% of all households in the United States are food insecure. They worry about running out of food and rationing what they do have. It is clear food insecurity leads to \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/full/10.1377/hlthaff.2015.0645\">poorer health\u003c/a>. Regardless of age, food insecure individuals are more likely to struggle with anxiety and depression. Children are at higher risk for asthma, malnutrition and cognitive problems. Non-elderly adults are more likely to have hypertension and diabetes, and seniors see limitations in their daily activities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection between food insecurity and obesity may seem less obvious. New data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention show almost \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/nchs/data/hus/hus18.pdf?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter_axiosvitals&stream=top\">one in five kids\u003c/a> in America is obese, with rates rising in adults to two in five, and recent research suggests the link between the two may be stronger than we think.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11789923']For example, in a small study of \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26377352\">2-to-8 year-old Hispanic children\u003c/a> and their mothers, being food insecure increased the chances the children would also be obese. A much bigger study including almost 10,000 \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25737437\">6-to-11 year-old children\u003c/a> found a similar connection. In adults, food insecurity has been found to be associated with a higher risk of obesity in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195666316310236?via%3Dihub\">white and Hispanic women\u003c/a>. (Interestingly, the researchers didn't find any link in men or black women.) Plus, after studying \u003ca href=\"https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/first-nations-food-insecurity_ca_5dc32058e4b005513881f6ab\">Canada's First Nations population\u003c/a> for a decade, researchers linked higher rates of food insecurity to higher rates of obesity and diabetes when compared with the country's general population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection now seems clear, but how does less food lead to more weight for some people?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One researcher suggests it's due to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27126969\">scarcity hypothesis\u003c/a> — when food is hard to find, the body prepares by seeking calorie-dense food and storing up energy in fat tissue. Dr. Emily Dhurandhar from Texas Tech University argues that the overabundance of high-calorie food in a neighborhood isn't enough to magically cause obesity; there must also be a physiological signal to save energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Dhurandhar's theory may be hard to quantify or address through policy. However, certain neighborhood factors do increase an individual's likelihood of being food insecure and, it turns out, are also associated with a higher risk of obesity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, living in a food desert can negatively impact your health, putting you at higher risk of becoming overweight or obese. \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/amber-waves/2011/december/data-feature-mapping-food-deserts-in-the-us/\">Food deserts\u003c/a> are low-income communities where stores to buy fruits, vegetables and other whole foods are either too far away or don't exist at all. Even when controlling for individual and household factors, such as diet and exercise or household education level, living in a food desert is linked to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26985622\">higher risk of obesity\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research has shown that not only does distance to the grocery store matter, but so do the store's prices. Lower prices have been associated with \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22698052/\">higher rates of obesity\u003c/a>. That's because stores with higher prices place more emphasis on displaying and marketing healthy food, but their healthy food is then often unaffordable. Lower prices mean more affordable food — but also often lower quality and nutritional value.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lastly, living in a food swamp can also increase your risk of obesity. What food deserts lack in healthy options, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2017/12/food-swamps/549275/\">food swamps\u003c/a> make up for in fast food and junk food; what's available is high in calories, sodium and sugar. Research suggests food swamps may actually \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29135909\">be better\u003c/a> at predicting local obesity patterns than food deserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the link between food insecurity and obesity is as significant as it seems, what can we do to fix it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, we can improve the options available in food insecure neighborhoods, with an emphasis on fresh produce and whole foods. At the same time, we should work to lower the cost of healthy food and improve stores' marketing strategies. In fact, lowering prices may offer \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25217097\">more relief\u003c/a> than simply adding more grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a broader level, federal policies can also alleviate individual barriers to good food. Food assistance programs, such as the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (\u003ca href=\"https://theincidentaleconomist.com/wordpress/proposed-eligibility-changes-to-snap-may-be-harmful-to-your-health/\">SNAP\u003c/a>) and WIC (a similar assistance program for mothers and children), and even Medicaid all help. The relationship between SNAP benefits and food insecurity is \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/pdf/10.1377/hlthaff.2018.05265\">clear\u003c/a> — those who lose their benefits become more food insecure. Research suggests that gaining \u003ca href=\"https://ajph.aphapublications.org/doi/10.2105/AJPH.2019.305168\">Medicaid coverage\u003c/a> through the Affordable Care Act also improves food security by alleviating health care expenses that previously diverted family resources away from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past year, the Trump administration has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/04/us/politics/trump-food-stamp-cuts.html\">proposed\u003c/a> cutting back food stamp eligibility three separate times to save money. One of those rule changes, scheduled to take effect next April, may \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/12/04/784732180/nearly-700-000-snap-recipients-could-lose-benefits-under-new-trump-rule\">kick nearly 700,000 people off SNAP\u003c/a>. Doing so may help the federal budget, but it may also increase rates of food insecurity and \u003ca href=\"https://www.marketwatch.com/story/how-the-trump-administrations-proposed-food-stamp-cutbacks-could-worsen-the-obesity-crisis-2019-10-14\">fuel\u003c/a> the current obesity epidemic. As these two issues threaten the health of our communities, federal policies and community-based interventions are significant players in our fight to reduce the rates of both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>This op-ed originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/12/16/787793287/opinion-obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-cutting-snap-benefits-may-worsen-bo\">NPR Food\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Elsa Pearson, MPH, is a senior policy analyst at Boston University School of Public Health. She's on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/epearsonbusph?lang=en\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">@epearsonbusph\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest grocery store is a few miles away and your paycheck doesn't clear until Friday. You even skipped lunch. With no car, only a few dollars and kids at home, you decide dinner will have to, yet again, be the local fast food restaurant within walking distance. It's cost effective, but you're already bracing for the \"healthy weight\" conversation at the pediatrician's next month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/food-nutrition-assistance/food-security-in-the-us/key-statistics-graphics.aspx#foodsecure\">11\u003c/a>% of all households in the United States are food insecure. They worry about running out of food and rationing what they do have. It is clear food insecurity leads to \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/full/10.1377/hlthaff.2015.0645\">poorer health\u003c/a>. Regardless of age, food insecure individuals are more likely to struggle with anxiety and depression. Children are at higher risk for asthma, malnutrition and cognitive problems. Non-elderly adults are more likely to have hypertension and diabetes, and seniors see limitations in their daily activities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection between food insecurity and obesity may seem less obvious. New data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention show almost \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/nchs/data/hus/hus18.pdf?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter_axiosvitals&stream=top\">one in five kids\u003c/a> in America is obese, with rates rising in adults to two in five, and recent research suggests the link between the two may be stronger than we think.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>For example, in a small study of \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26377352\">2-to-8 year-old Hispanic children\u003c/a> and their mothers, being food insecure increased the chances the children would also be obese. A much bigger study including almost 10,000 \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25737437\">6-to-11 year-old children\u003c/a> found a similar connection. In adults, food insecurity has been found to be associated with a higher risk of obesity in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195666316310236?via%3Dihub\">white and Hispanic women\u003c/a>. (Interestingly, the researchers didn't find any link in men or black women.) Plus, after studying \u003ca href=\"https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/first-nations-food-insecurity_ca_5dc32058e4b005513881f6ab\">Canada's First Nations population\u003c/a> for a decade, researchers linked higher rates of food insecurity to higher rates of obesity and diabetes when compared with the country's general population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection now seems clear, but how does less food lead to more weight for some people?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One researcher suggests it's due to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27126969\">scarcity hypothesis\u003c/a> — when food is hard to find, the body prepares by seeking calorie-dense food and storing up energy in fat tissue. Dr. Emily Dhurandhar from Texas Tech University argues that the overabundance of high-calorie food in a neighborhood isn't enough to magically cause obesity; there must also be a physiological signal to save energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Dhurandhar's theory may be hard to quantify or address through policy. However, certain neighborhood factors do increase an individual's likelihood of being food insecure and, it turns out, are also associated with a higher risk of obesity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, living in a food desert can negatively impact your health, putting you at higher risk of becoming overweight or obese. \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/amber-waves/2011/december/data-feature-mapping-food-deserts-in-the-us/\">Food deserts\u003c/a> are low-income communities where stores to buy fruits, vegetables and other whole foods are either too far away or don't exist at all. Even when controlling for individual and household factors, such as diet and exercise or household education level, living in a food desert is linked to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26985622\">higher risk of obesity\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research has shown that not only does distance to the grocery store matter, but so do the store's prices. Lower prices have been associated with \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22698052/\">higher rates of obesity\u003c/a>. That's because stores with higher prices place more emphasis on displaying and marketing healthy food, but their healthy food is then often unaffordable. Lower prices mean more affordable food — but also often lower quality and nutritional value.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lastly, living in a food swamp can also increase your risk of obesity. What food deserts lack in healthy options, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2017/12/food-swamps/549275/\">food swamps\u003c/a> make up for in fast food and junk food; what's available is high in calories, sodium and sugar. Research suggests food swamps may actually \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29135909\">be better\u003c/a> at predicting local obesity patterns than food deserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the link between food insecurity and obesity is as significant as it seems, what can we do to fix it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, we can improve the options available in food insecure neighborhoods, with an emphasis on fresh produce and whole foods. At the same time, we should work to lower the cost of healthy food and improve stores' marketing strategies. In fact, lowering prices may offer \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25217097\">more relief\u003c/a> than simply adding more grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a broader level, federal policies can also alleviate individual barriers to good food. Food assistance programs, such as the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (\u003ca href=\"https://theincidentaleconomist.com/wordpress/proposed-eligibility-changes-to-snap-may-be-harmful-to-your-health/\">SNAP\u003c/a>) and WIC (a similar assistance program for mothers and children), and even Medicaid all help. The relationship between SNAP benefits and food insecurity is \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/pdf/10.1377/hlthaff.2018.05265\">clear\u003c/a> — those who lose their benefits become more food insecure. Research suggests that gaining \u003ca href=\"https://ajph.aphapublications.org/doi/10.2105/AJPH.2019.305168\">Medicaid coverage\u003c/a> through the Affordable Care Act also improves food security by alleviating health care expenses that previously diverted family resources away from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past year, the Trump administration has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/04/us/politics/trump-food-stamp-cuts.html\">proposed\u003c/a> cutting back food stamp eligibility three separate times to save money. One of those rule changes, scheduled to take effect next April, may \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/12/04/784732180/nearly-700-000-snap-recipients-could-lose-benefits-under-new-trump-rule\">kick nearly 700,000 people off SNAP\u003c/a>. Doing so may help the federal budget, but it may also increase rates of food insecurity and \u003ca href=\"https://www.marketwatch.com/story/how-the-trump-administrations-proposed-food-stamp-cutbacks-could-worsen-the-obesity-crisis-2019-10-14\">fuel\u003c/a> the current obesity epidemic. As these two issues threaten the health of our communities, federal policies and community-based interventions are significant players in our fight to reduce the rates of both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Delivery Only: The Rise Of Restaurants With No Diners As Apps Take Orders",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Inside a bright red building in Redwood City, just south of San Francisco, cooks plunge baskets of french fries into hot oil, make chicken sandwiches and wrap falafel in pita bread.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134310' target=_]\u003cbr>\nIf you've been in a restaurant kitchen, it's a familiar scene. But what's missing here are waiters and customers. Every dish is placed in a to-go box or bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delivery drivers line up in a waiting area ready for the name on their order to be called.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Behind the counter, racks of metal shelves hold bags of food. Each bag sports a round, red sticker with the logo of DoorDash, America's \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2019/11/21/doordash-continues-to-lead-in-the-food-delivery-wars.html\">biggest food delivery app\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DoorDash manages this building, the drivers, the counter staff — everything but the food, which is made by five restaurants that are renting kitchens here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Rather than having to build a physical brick-and-mortar store, we do that on their behalf. And then they move into our DoorDash kitchen and then overnight they're live on the DoorDash platform,\" said Fuad Hannon, DoorDash's head of new business verticals. He oversees the new kitchen venture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not long ago, food delivery in many places was limited to pizza and Chinese takeout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But now, thanks to apps like DoorDash, Grubhub and Postmates, customers can summon their favorite dish with a tap on a smartphone screen, whether they live in a city or the far-flung suburbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Your customer is just like, at their living room, watching Netflix,\" said Min Park, an investor in DoorDash tenant Rooster & Rice, a chicken chain with six locations in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.S. diners spent almost $27 billion last year ordering food for delivery by app, website or text message, according to the NPD Group, a market researcher. Online delivery is still a small slice of the $800 billion restaurant industry, but it's growing fast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/img_0068-25c542f8b286c2cb2aa316258ac50380d386984f-e1575583148800.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135795\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A driver picks up a Chick-fil-A order at the DoorDash kitchen in Redwood City, Calif. DoorDash's tenants include national chains as well as Bay Area brands. \u003ccite>(Shannon Bond/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And money is pouring into delivery-only kitchens. They go by a variety of names, including ghost kitchens, virtual kitchens and dark kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchen United, based in Pasadena, Calif., has raised $50 million from investors including Google.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uber co-founder Travis Kalanick has reportedly raised hundreds of millions of dollars from Saudi Arabia for his new business, CloudKitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DoorDash's tenants include national chains, including Chick-fil-A, as well as Bay Area brands, such as the diner Nation's Giant Hamburgers.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='news_11772467' align='left' target=_]\u003cbr>\nNone of them have actual restaurants or stores nearby, but the DoorDash facility allows them to deliver to Redwood City and neighboring towns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This lets Rooster & Rice test new neighborhoods without committing a lot of money to a new restaurant and hiring waiters and other staff, Park said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In San Francisco, it could easily cost about $750,000 to $1 million for a medium-sized space,\" he said. \"The commissary kitchen model\" can generate similar revenue \"at a fraction of the cost,\" Park said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other restaurants are trying a different approach: creating \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/10/23/658436657/ubers-online-only-restaurants-the-future-or-the-end-of-dining-out\">separate menus\u003c/a> just for smartphone apps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uber Eats is one of the fastest-growing parts of Uber. It knows exactly what food its customers are searching for, and it knows when those searches don't turn up results.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uber advises some restaurants to use their existing kitchens to offer a whole new menu, under a different name — and only available through the app.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That could mean a bakery that starts making burgers for delivery \"because that neighborhood didn't have enough burger restaurants,\" said Janelle Sallenave, head of Uber Eats in North America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are more than 4,000 of these \"virtual restaurants\" on Uber Eats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DoorDash similarly looks at the millions of orders it receives to suggest where restaurants should expand delivery and menu items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The app companies say the restaurants they partner with get a boost from delivery. Restaurants such as Rooster & Rice say those additional sales make up for the costs associated with delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the restaurant industry has never been easy, and the apps take a big cut from those delivery orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ken Ray knows how that works. He opened Alacarte Delivery in Miami in 2017. He set up a ghost kitchen and began creating menus for the apps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Over a 10-month period, we essentially developed 15 different restaurant brands,\" he said, including Mott Street Pizza, Fresco Mexicano and Whichicken, a rotisserie chicken restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But without name recognition, it was hard to find customers. On top of that, Ray said the 30% commission most apps charged him for each order they delivered made it impossible for his business to cover its expenses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For restaurants, it's tough to give away that 30%. A lot of these guys — the Ubers, the Postmates, the Grubhubs — they've essentially built an amazing business, but they built it off the back of the restaurateur,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He closed Alacarte Delivery in July.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ray still believes that people have a big appetite for delivery — but it needs to be palatable for restaurants, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/12/05/783164944/delivery-only-the-rise-of-restaurants-with-no-diners-as-apps-take-orders\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Restaurants without diners are popping up all over the place. \"Ghost kitchens\" and menus that exist solely in smartphone apps such as DoorDash and Uber Eats seek to feed diners' appetite for delivery.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Inside a bright red building in Redwood City, just south of San Francisco, cooks plunge baskets of french fries into hot oil, make chicken sandwiches and wrap falafel in pita bread.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIf you've been in a restaurant kitchen, it's a familiar scene. But what's missing here are waiters and customers. Every dish is placed in a to-go box or bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Delivery drivers line up in a waiting area ready for the name on their order to be called.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Behind the counter, racks of metal shelves hold bags of food. Each bag sports a round, red sticker with the logo of DoorDash, America's \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2019/11/21/doordash-continues-to-lead-in-the-food-delivery-wars.html\">biggest food delivery app\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DoorDash manages this building, the drivers, the counter staff — everything but the food, which is made by five restaurants that are renting kitchens here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Rather than having to build a physical brick-and-mortar store, we do that on their behalf. And then they move into our DoorDash kitchen and then overnight they're live on the DoorDash platform,\" said Fuad Hannon, DoorDash's head of new business verticals. He oversees the new kitchen venture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not long ago, food delivery in many places was limited to pizza and Chinese takeout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But now, thanks to apps like DoorDash, Grubhub and Postmates, customers can summon their favorite dish with a tap on a smartphone screen, whether they live in a city or the far-flung suburbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Your customer is just like, at their living room, watching Netflix,\" said Min Park, an investor in DoorDash tenant Rooster & Rice, a chicken chain with six locations in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.S. diners spent almost $27 billion last year ordering food for delivery by app, website or text message, according to the NPD Group, a market researcher. Online delivery is still a small slice of the $800 billion restaurant industry, but it's growing fast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/img_0068-25c542f8b286c2cb2aa316258ac50380d386984f-e1575583148800.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135795\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A driver picks up a Chick-fil-A order at the DoorDash kitchen in Redwood City, Calif. DoorDash's tenants include national chains as well as Bay Area brands. \u003ccite>(Shannon Bond/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And money is pouring into delivery-only kitchens. They go by a variety of names, including ghost kitchens, virtual kitchens and dark kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchen United, based in Pasadena, Calif., has raised $50 million from investors including Google.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uber co-founder Travis Kalanick has reportedly raised hundreds of millions of dollars from Saudi Arabia for his new business, CloudKitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DoorDash's tenants include national chains, including Chick-fil-A, as well as Bay Area brands, such as the diner Nation's Giant Hamburgers.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nNone of them have actual restaurants or stores nearby, but the DoorDash facility allows them to deliver to Redwood City and neighboring towns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This lets Rooster & Rice test new neighborhoods without committing a lot of money to a new restaurant and hiring waiters and other staff, Park said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In San Francisco, it could easily cost about $750,000 to $1 million for a medium-sized space,\" he said. \"The commissary kitchen model\" can generate similar revenue \"at a fraction of the cost,\" Park said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other restaurants are trying a different approach: creating \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/10/23/658436657/ubers-online-only-restaurants-the-future-or-the-end-of-dining-out\">separate menus\u003c/a> just for smartphone apps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uber Eats is one of the fastest-growing parts of Uber. It knows exactly what food its customers are searching for, and it knows when those searches don't turn up results.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uber advises some restaurants to use their existing kitchens to offer a whole new menu, under a different name — and only available through the app.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That could mean a bakery that starts making burgers for delivery \"because that neighborhood didn't have enough burger restaurants,\" said Janelle Sallenave, head of Uber Eats in North America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are more than 4,000 of these \"virtual restaurants\" on Uber Eats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DoorDash similarly looks at the millions of orders it receives to suggest where restaurants should expand delivery and menu items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The app companies say the restaurants they partner with get a boost from delivery. Restaurants such as Rooster & Rice say those additional sales make up for the costs associated with delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the restaurant industry has never been easy, and the apps take a big cut from those delivery orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ken Ray knows how that works. He opened Alacarte Delivery in Miami in 2017. He set up a ghost kitchen and began creating menus for the apps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Over a 10-month period, we essentially developed 15 different restaurant brands,\" he said, including Mott Street Pizza, Fresco Mexicano and Whichicken, a rotisserie chicken restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But without name recognition, it was hard to find customers. On top of that, Ray said the 30% commission most apps charged him for each order they delivered made it impossible for his business to cover its expenses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For restaurants, it's tough to give away that 30%. A lot of these guys — the Ubers, the Postmates, the Grubhubs — they've essentially built an amazing business, but they built it off the back of the restaurateur,\" he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He closed Alacarte Delivery in July.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ray still believes that people have a big appetite for delivery — but it needs to be palatable for restaurants, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/12/05/783164944/delivery-only-the-rise-of-restaurants-with-no-diners-as-apps-take-orders\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?",
"title": "After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When D'Abruzzo opened its first food kiosk in New York City's Bryant Park a few years ago, I dashed over to taste the Italian mountainous region's trademark mutton arrosticini and capture photographic proof of its existence in America, as this is not a dish often seen on our shores.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='npr-food' num='2' label='More NPR Stories on KQED']\u003cbr>\nThanks to D'Abruzzo, hundreds, maybe thousands, of Americans would be able to sample the region's savory, salted, grilled sheep-meat-on-a-stick that is cooked with passion in Abruzzo, on its own specialized grill, called \u003cem>la furnacell\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moments after posting photos of D'Abruzzo's arrosticini and its menu on Facebook, responses from Abruzzese friends and family came flooding in. They were excited. Proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>One of us — in Manhattan!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were also uniformly thrown into a state of irascibility over one unforgivable sin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They use lamb, not mutton!\" venomously typed my Abruzzese friend, Ugo Budani, from 4,000 miles away. \"There can be no substitute!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should note that D'Abruzzo's lamb arrosticini tastes like heaven on a stick. But that's beside the point: On this side of the Atlantic, \u003cem>not \u003c/em>having a substitute for mutton in eateries could be professional suicide — because sheep meat never got a fighting chance in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is close to impossible to even find mutton in the U.S.,\" says Ken Albala, professor of history at California's University of the Pacific. \"It costs more to raise sheep for longer periods of time, and the decline in wool production in the U.S. is directly related to the decline in mutton as a culinary delicacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wasn't always the case. Old restaurant menus from the New York Public Library archives tell a different tale about mutton's desirability. A 1915 menu from Fraunces Tavern in New York City offered broiled English mutton chops with baked potatoes for $1.50 — 25 cents more than the price of its roast spring lamb. First-class passengers on the \u003cem>RMS Titanic\u003c/em> were served grilled mutton chops, while spring lamb was reserved for second class. And, at Keens Chophouse in NYC in 1941, the English mutton chop, kidney, sausage and bacon cost $1.61, just 60 cents less than its pricey filet mignon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the early 1900s there were 237 menus with mutton,\" says Keens Steakhouse manager Bonnie Jenkins. \"But after World War II, people were celebrating. They were forced to eat mutton during war time and they wanted to get away from it. You don't see it on menus in the 1950s and '60s.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Mutton: a casualty of war\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Few foods suffered quite the same public relations calamity as a result of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"U.S. GI's were fed canned Australian mutton, which by all accounts was just awful,\" says Bob Kennard, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.muchadoaboutmutton.com/\">Much Ado About Mutton\u003c/a>. Wherever he travels, the Welsh mutton expert says he hears a similar story: \"I am told that someone's uncle or father came home from the war and wouldn't allow sheep meat in the house — they never wanted to see it again. It just went completely out of fashion.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='news_11788566' align='left']\u003cbr>\nThe fact that mutton ever even rose to the ranks of high culinary fashion in the U.S. is nothing short of a miracle. The infamous sheep and cattle wars that took place in Western states like Texas, Arizona, Colorado and Wyoming between 1870 and 1920 threatened to bring the sheep industry to its knees. Shepherds, who were generally Native American or Latin American, required a free range and plenty of grass, which often left cattle subsiding on weeds and fighting for the same territory. Cattle farmers, who benefited from the support of government officials, viewed sheep as invaders. Armed conflicts ensued, leading to the slaughter of sheep — and men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act that regulated grazing on public land, shepherds and cattlemen could peacefully co-exist. But the fact that burgers — and not mutton chops — are served at every diner in America tells you all you need to know about who won the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The development of railroads and refrigerated railroad cars also meant that beef could be shipped all over the country, says Sarah Wassberg Johnson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefoodhistorian.com/\">food historian\u003c/a>. \"Once livestock husbandry began to become more and more specialized in the United States and people were no longer subsistence producers, mutton was relegated to more regional status — the purview of shepherds culling stock, rather than John Doe consumers in Chicago or New York City buying from the butcher,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135732 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-1020x573.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millennials and more experimental diners might be open to eating mutton. \u003ccite>(Robert Nickelsberg/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Slow meat in a fast-paced world\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Even if sheep had come out as victors, our faster paced post-war lifestyle — a shift from butcher shops to grocery stores, wool clothing to polyester blends, and an increase in women leaving kitchens and entering workplaces — may not have supported mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton is a high-maintenance meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You've got to cook mutton long and slow, which makes it less tough,\" Kennard says. \"A leg of mutton takes 25 minutes a pound to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's assuming you can even find mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In countries like the U.K., lamb meat comes from sheep aged up to 1 year, hogget from animals 1 to 2 years old, and true mutton from those 2 years and older. It's worth noting that Kennard says these categories are purely unofficial, but are what are generally accepted. There is no legal definition, apart from that of lamb. But the U.S. is limited in its categories and the majority of sheep butchered is what the U.K. would consider hogget — the U.S. doesn't recognize the difference between hogget and mutton, according to Eugenie McGuire, who breeds Black Welsh Mountain sheep at \u003ca href=\"http://desertweyr.com/\">Desert Weyr\u003c/a> ranch in Colorado.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134870']\u003cbr>\nKeens Steakhouse (formerly known as Keens Chophouse), one of the few traditional restaurants that serves what they refer to as a mutton chop, purchases older lambs aged 10 months to one year, and usually a bit older, says Jenkins. While not considered mutton by U.K. standards, the taste of a 10-month-old lamb is still very different than that of a 6- to 8-month-old spring lamb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quest to score actual mutton is tricky. The meat is popular among Navajo and Pueblo peoples, is often used in Pakistani, South African and Indian curry dishes, and can be found at small suppliers like Apple Creek Farm in Maine, which sells rosemary mutton sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A hard find\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Outside of farms and niche markets, mutton still poses unique challenges. To create a tender meat, it needs to be hung in a cold room that allows its enzymes to break down. When supermarkets took over meat production, they weren't eager to hang meat because it's money in the fridge, Kennard says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuire, who owns a modest farm, says she pays more than $150 per sheep just to have it processed, and that a severe lack of infrastructure to support sheep farming is to blame for why the meat is so expensive to maintain and ship. A local brewery buys her mutton to make a sausage dish affectionately called Baahwurst, but a local upscale chef, also a buyer, labels his \"lamb\"on menus. Despite the popularity of the dish, McGuire says customers can't get past the label \"mutton.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millennials and more experimental diners on both coasts might be open to eating mutton, McGuire says, but when one high-end restaurant in New York City purchased her USDA-inspected mutton, it \"cost a bloody fortune to ship — three times the cost of other meat.\" Mutton must be shipped overnight and packed in dry ice, and the additional costs, McGuire explains, include a Hazmat charge on top of an overnight shipping charge.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A mutton revival on the horizon?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Still, McGuire, Kennard and other champions for mutton say the meat has a lot to offer and that rebranding, re-education and investment in small processing plants are needed to create new buzz around the industry. In the U.K., where the Mutton Renaissance Campaign was founded by Prince Charles, those efforts include a push to categorize mutton by location and breed. In the U.S., farmers like McGuire are also eager to differentiate between breeds and diet (grass-fed mutton is tastier, according to experts), while celebrity butchers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/adam_danforth/?hl=en\">Adam Danforth\u003c/a> are using social media to impart knowledge on the delicious benefits of dry-aging sheep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Danforth, Americans have been informed, told, reminded and marketed by a commercial industry that tenderness is the ultimate characteristic of good meat, and he calls it a ploy that plays into their model — because tenderness comes from the opposite conditions that flavor does. Mutton is neither tough nor gamey, he argues, and is a superior eating experience to lamb. \"In fact, lamb these days is more and more being developed to taste less like the species of sheep and more like beef to better appeal to the mainstream,\" Danforth says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton's best days may actually be ahead of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Good mutton is like the best steak you've ever had,\" McGuire says. \"The biggest problem is getting people to try it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lisa Fogarty is a freelance writer from New York who covers food, health and culture. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": " Once the stuff of high-end cuisine, mutton consumption tanked thanks to competition from the cattle industry and GIs fed up with rations. Fans say it's time to re-embrace this underappreciated meat. ",
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"description": " Once the stuff of high-end cuisine, mutton consumption tanked thanks to competition from the cattle industry and GIs fed up with rations. Fans say it's time to re-embrace this underappreciated meat. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When D'Abruzzo opened its first food kiosk in New York City's Bryant Park a few years ago, I dashed over to taste the Italian mountainous region's trademark mutton arrosticini and capture photographic proof of its existence in America, as this is not a dish often seen on our shores.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThanks to D'Abruzzo, hundreds, maybe thousands, of Americans would be able to sample the region's savory, salted, grilled sheep-meat-on-a-stick that is cooked with passion in Abruzzo, on its own specialized grill, called \u003cem>la furnacell\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moments after posting photos of D'Abruzzo's arrosticini and its menu on Facebook, responses from Abruzzese friends and family came flooding in. They were excited. Proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>One of us — in Manhattan!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were also uniformly thrown into a state of irascibility over one unforgivable sin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They use lamb, not mutton!\" venomously typed my Abruzzese friend, Ugo Budani, from 4,000 miles away. \"There can be no substitute!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should note that D'Abruzzo's lamb arrosticini tastes like heaven on a stick. But that's beside the point: On this side of the Atlantic, \u003cem>not \u003c/em>having a substitute for mutton in eateries could be professional suicide — because sheep meat never got a fighting chance in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is close to impossible to even find mutton in the U.S.,\" says Ken Albala, professor of history at California's University of the Pacific. \"It costs more to raise sheep for longer periods of time, and the decline in wool production in the U.S. is directly related to the decline in mutton as a culinary delicacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wasn't always the case. Old restaurant menus from the New York Public Library archives tell a different tale about mutton's desirability. A 1915 menu from Fraunces Tavern in New York City offered broiled English mutton chops with baked potatoes for $1.50 — 25 cents more than the price of its roast spring lamb. First-class passengers on the \u003cem>RMS Titanic\u003c/em> were served grilled mutton chops, while spring lamb was reserved for second class. And, at Keens Chophouse in NYC in 1941, the English mutton chop, kidney, sausage and bacon cost $1.61, just 60 cents less than its pricey filet mignon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the early 1900s there were 237 menus with mutton,\" says Keens Steakhouse manager Bonnie Jenkins. \"But after World War II, people were celebrating. They were forced to eat mutton during war time and they wanted to get away from it. You don't see it on menus in the 1950s and '60s.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Mutton: a casualty of war\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Few foods suffered quite the same public relations calamity as a result of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"U.S. GI's were fed canned Australian mutton, which by all accounts was just awful,\" says Bob Kennard, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.muchadoaboutmutton.com/\">Much Ado About Mutton\u003c/a>. Wherever he travels, the Welsh mutton expert says he hears a similar story: \"I am told that someone's uncle or father came home from the war and wouldn't allow sheep meat in the house — they never wanted to see it again. It just went completely out of fashion.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThe fact that mutton ever even rose to the ranks of high culinary fashion in the U.S. is nothing short of a miracle. The infamous sheep and cattle wars that took place in Western states like Texas, Arizona, Colorado and Wyoming between 1870 and 1920 threatened to bring the sheep industry to its knees. Shepherds, who were generally Native American or Latin American, required a free range and plenty of grass, which often left cattle subsiding on weeds and fighting for the same territory. Cattle farmers, who benefited from the support of government officials, viewed sheep as invaders. Armed conflicts ensued, leading to the slaughter of sheep — and men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act that regulated grazing on public land, shepherds and cattlemen could peacefully co-exist. But the fact that burgers — and not mutton chops — are served at every diner in America tells you all you need to know about who won the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The development of railroads and refrigerated railroad cars also meant that beef could be shipped all over the country, says Sarah Wassberg Johnson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefoodhistorian.com/\">food historian\u003c/a>. \"Once livestock husbandry began to become more and more specialized in the United States and people were no longer subsistence producers, mutton was relegated to more regional status — the purview of shepherds culling stock, rather than John Doe consumers in Chicago or New York City buying from the butcher,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135732 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-1020x573.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millennials and more experimental diners might be open to eating mutton. \u003ccite>(Robert Nickelsberg/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Slow meat in a fast-paced world\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Even if sheep had come out as victors, our faster paced post-war lifestyle — a shift from butcher shops to grocery stores, wool clothing to polyester blends, and an increase in women leaving kitchens and entering workplaces — may not have supported mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton is a high-maintenance meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You've got to cook mutton long and slow, which makes it less tough,\" Kennard says. \"A leg of mutton takes 25 minutes a pound to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's assuming you can even find mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In countries like the U.K., lamb meat comes from sheep aged up to 1 year, hogget from animals 1 to 2 years old, and true mutton from those 2 years and older. It's worth noting that Kennard says these categories are purely unofficial, but are what are generally accepted. There is no legal definition, apart from that of lamb. But the U.S. is limited in its categories and the majority of sheep butchered is what the U.K. would consider hogget — the U.S. doesn't recognize the difference between hogget and mutton, according to Eugenie McGuire, who breeds Black Welsh Mountain sheep at \u003ca href=\"http://desertweyr.com/\">Desert Weyr\u003c/a> ranch in Colorado.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nKeens Steakhouse (formerly known as Keens Chophouse), one of the few traditional restaurants that serves what they refer to as a mutton chop, purchases older lambs aged 10 months to one year, and usually a bit older, says Jenkins. While not considered mutton by U.K. standards, the taste of a 10-month-old lamb is still very different than that of a 6- to 8-month-old spring lamb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quest to score actual mutton is tricky. The meat is popular among Navajo and Pueblo peoples, is often used in Pakistani, South African and Indian curry dishes, and can be found at small suppliers like Apple Creek Farm in Maine, which sells rosemary mutton sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A hard find\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Outside of farms and niche markets, mutton still poses unique challenges. To create a tender meat, it needs to be hung in a cold room that allows its enzymes to break down. When supermarkets took over meat production, they weren't eager to hang meat because it's money in the fridge, Kennard says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuire, who owns a modest farm, says she pays more than $150 per sheep just to have it processed, and that a severe lack of infrastructure to support sheep farming is to blame for why the meat is so expensive to maintain and ship. A local brewery buys her mutton to make a sausage dish affectionately called Baahwurst, but a local upscale chef, also a buyer, labels his \"lamb\"on menus. Despite the popularity of the dish, McGuire says customers can't get past the label \"mutton.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millennials and more experimental diners on both coasts might be open to eating mutton, McGuire says, but when one high-end restaurant in New York City purchased her USDA-inspected mutton, it \"cost a bloody fortune to ship — three times the cost of other meat.\" Mutton must be shipped overnight and packed in dry ice, and the additional costs, McGuire explains, include a Hazmat charge on top of an overnight shipping charge.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A mutton revival on the horizon?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Still, McGuire, Kennard and other champions for mutton say the meat has a lot to offer and that rebranding, re-education and investment in small processing plants are needed to create new buzz around the industry. In the U.K., where the Mutton Renaissance Campaign was founded by Prince Charles, those efforts include a push to categorize mutton by location and breed. In the U.S., farmers like McGuire are also eager to differentiate between breeds and diet (grass-fed mutton is tastier, according to experts), while celebrity butchers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/adam_danforth/?hl=en\">Adam Danforth\u003c/a> are using social media to impart knowledge on the delicious benefits of dry-aging sheep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Danforth, Americans have been informed, told, reminded and marketed by a commercial industry that tenderness is the ultimate characteristic of good meat, and he calls it a ploy that plays into their model — because tenderness comes from the opposite conditions that flavor does. Mutton is neither tough nor gamey, he argues, and is a superior eating experience to lamb. \"In fact, lamb these days is more and more being developed to taste less like the species of sheep and more like beef to better appeal to the mainstream,\" Danforth says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton's best days may actually be ahead of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Good mutton is like the best steak you've ever had,\" McGuire says. \"The biggest problem is getting people to try it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lisa Fogarty is a freelance writer from New York who covers food, health and culture. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "At The Mercy Of An App: Workers Feel The Instacart Squeeze",
"title": "At The Mercy Of An App: Workers Feel The Instacart Squeeze",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside tag='instacart' label='More on Instacart']\u003cbr>\nWorking for Instacart — buying and delivering groceries to strangers — at first felt like Michaellita Fortier's childhood dream of starring on the speed-shopping TV show \u003cem>Supermarket Sweep\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was fun in the beginning,\" Fortier says. She felt like she was helping people in need, while making as much as $16 or $20 per delivery. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, the app inundated her with orders worth half that, $7 or $9 per delivery. For that money, she was expected to go to the store, shop, fill a cart and deliver an order, sometimes driving 10 or 15 miles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I thought, now listen, this is less than minimum wage you want me to drive [for],\" Fortier says. After seven months of working for Instacart in West Michigan, she quit the gig in October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millions of Americans like Fortier have counted on platforms like Instacart, DoorDash, Uber or Lyft not just as a service, but as a job. Quickly, they find themselves at the mercy of an algorithm — ever-changing pay structures, no assurance of a minimum wage, the smallest tweak of the app capable of upending their livelihoods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/gettyimages-1153149270_custom-ead631dafa708c3092ff9131fe8b4ccfbd02ea27-e1574716602860.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135662\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the heart of Instacart workers' frustration are the constant and murky changes to how the company assigns work and determines its value. \u003ccite>(Rafael Henrique/SOPA Images/LightRocket via Getty)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In recent months, Instacart — the most popular grocery-delivery app — has faced a new wave of discontent and even \u003ca href=\"https://slate.com/business/2019/11/instacart-workers-striking-app-user-interface-dark-pattern-design.html\">a strike over pay\u003c/a>. The company relies on more than 130,000 people to log on and help strangers with their groceries. As NPR first \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/05/25/722811953/why-suburban-moms-are-delivering-your-groceries\">reported in May\u003c/a>, the majority of them are women. All are independent contractors — and their grievances are extensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR spoke or exchanged messages with more than 40 current and former Instacart workers. At the heart of their frustration are the constant and murky changes to how the company assigns work and determines its value. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was extremely clear before how much you would be paid per item, how much you would be paid per order,\" says Liz Temkin, 63, who's worked for Instacart in Los Angeles for over four years. \"And then they came up with a completely different what we call a black box algorithm.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Value of work\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An Instacart representative declined to speak on the record, but pointed out that in February, the company did commit to a guaranteed minimum pay: $7 to $10 per job. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This one job can vary from a quick grocery run to a big stock-up at Costco. Or it might mean multiple orders compiled together — delivering several payments to Instacart, and one to the worker. Though Instacart says its pay does account for the size, weight, distance and other factors of all the included orders. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We used to get $10 to go to the store, and 40 cents an item. Now, no matter how many items and how many units we get, they pay us $7 — maybe there's a tip, maybe there's not,\" says Mercedes Maltese, 42, who joined Instacart in 2017 in a suburb of Detroit, after losing full- and part-time jobs in succession. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135663\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0005_custom-f5b8a5e4fbe34fab62484f8569a7da18273cbcb4-e1574716637454.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135663\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">NPR connected with more than 40 current and former Instacart contractors. They say being a faster, nicer or more experienced worker for the app did not guarantee better pay. \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Maltese says her options are other minimum-wage jobs, and with Instacart she can at least try to work as many hours as possible. However, Instacart also does not pay for the drive \u003cem>to \u003c/em>the store — only from the store to the customer — and so Maltese spends much of her workday sitting in her car, unpaid, waiting for a decent order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I work ... seven days a week,\" she says, her voice swelling with tears. \"I just have to work and live in my car like a homeless person, in some kind of hopes of scraping up some kind of money in order to pay my bills.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews, Instacart CEO Apoorva Mehta often brings up the difficulty of constantly matching the supply and demand of grocery orders to workers. His company, expected to go public as soon as next year, is valued at nearly $8 billion. In May, Mehta \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2019/05/15/instacart-ceo-apoorva-mehta-were-ready-for-split-from-whole-foods.html\">told CNBC\u003c/a> that Instacart is profitable on every delivery. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Uber in ride-sharing, Instacart grew nationwide thanks to algorithms assigning and putting value on work — and to a virtually unlimited pool of workers giving the app a try. In August, Instacart said its worker ranks almost tripled in one year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Algorithmic control\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Algorithmic despotism\" was the term that sociologists applied to Instacart in \u003ca href=\"https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/2378023119870041\">an August paper\u003c/a>. The researchers found that the company stood out among competing apps for just how much it pushed workers to commit long hours and accept unattractive gigs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Instacart, we found in particular, really did control the labor process, or control workers' experiences and limited their autonomy over their time and over the work they could do, in a significant way,\" lead author Kathleen Griesbach of Columbia University told NPR. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0001_custom-42c30a4503f2aba8fd2b50bf22f4ea3b9dddd3d9-e1574716658286.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135664\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teri Smith knits a pair of socks in a Kroger parking lot in Arlington, Texas, while she waits for Instacart to offer her a new grocery order. She signs up for shifts with Instacart five or six days a week. \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The research, which received some funding from the United Food and Commercial Workers union, studied algorithmic control of food-delivery workers by surveying 995 people who gigged for DoorDash, Postmates, Grubhub and other apps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instacart dismissed the study, arguing that it relied on an outdated understanding of the app's workflow. A company spokesperson did not address the research on the record, but pointed out that its contractors now can work more flexibly \"on demand\" — grabbing assignments whenever, as orders come in — in addition to signing up for two-hour shifts featured in the study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The majority of the 40-some workers who spoke to NPR said they worked both the old way and the new way — and either way, being faster, nicer or more experienced did not guarantee better pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shift system has various rules for getting or \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-07-15/instacart-hounds-workers-to-take-jobs-that-aren-t-worth-it\">even rejecting\u003c/a> work. Many who rely on Instacart for full-time work scramble every week to sign up for enough hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I live and die by my 9:20 Sunday morning alarm,\" says Teri Smith, 46, who's worked for Instacart in Arlington, Texas, for over a year. Once the hours are available at 9:30, \"it's a frantic tap to get all the hours before they're all gone — and then by 9:31 everything is gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0011_custom-74f5d3dc6037f06ce116793a07d83649207776ea-e1574716692676.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135665\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In a matter of a year, Smith says she noticed Instacart's pay declining for each order she shops and delivers: \"I was making the same amount of money in 40 hours that I'm making in 50 now.\" \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The new on-demand structure leaves many workers glued to their phone screens. They rush against each other to snatch up orders, with little time to thoroughly calculate whether shopping and delivering is worth time, gas and extra miles on their cars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Trying to quickly analyze and make an educated decision ... is next to impossible,\" says Cynthia Phillips, 58, who's been shopping for Instacart in southern California for almost two years. Instacart \"gets to pay less and less for services knowing that someone will end up taking the batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Opaque changes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instacart workers' \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/4/20947832/instacart-shoppers-strike\">latest strike\u003c/a> this month was over changes to tipping, which workers say is still a hefty chunk of their income. Instacart used to set a default tip of 10% per order, but now, it's half that. Meanwhile, the tip is in addition to a \"delivery\" fee and a \"service\" fee that both go to Instacart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The subject of tipping is particularly sensitive for Instacart workers. In February, the company had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/carolineodonovan/after-scrutiny-instacart-will-end-its-controversial-tipping\">refund workers\u003c/a> after they noticed that Instacart was using their tips to subsidize the minimum payment it promised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135666\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0021_custom-85c34d8ca64bdbbca70304a1425a3f7604c82ff5-e1574716724730.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135666\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smith loads a Instacart customer's groceries in the back of her van. \"I actually love grocery shopping,\" she says, \"the only thing I'm asking for is to be paid fairly.\" \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Right after the strike, Instacart made yet another change: It stopped paying the $3 quality bonus that rewarded each five-star review from a customer. Workers point out that for many of them, this bonus had already been a downgrade from Instacart's previous scheme, which rewarded the best-rated workers with $100 for the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strikers have accused Instacart of retaliation. The company told NPR the timing was coincidental and the $3 quality bonus had been a test that did not meaningfully improve the quality of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I could usually count on getting that bonus about 30% of my time. [That's] 10 orders a week, so now I'm $30 down,\" says Smith, who picked up Instacart as her primary income in August 2018, after her family struggled to run a toy store they'd opened in a Dallas suburb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a matter of a year, Smith says she's noticed Instacart's pay declining for each order: \"I was making the same amount of money in 40 hours that I'm making in 50 now,\" she says. Asked whether she makes minimum wage, Smith says: \"Oh, heck no.\" Not after expenses, she says, like gas for her 12-year-old car.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grocery delivery \"is a service that's definitely needed for people ... and I love doing it,\" she says. \"The only thing I'm asking for is to be paid fairly.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/11/25/778546287/at-the-mercy-of-an-app-workers-feel-the-instacart-squeeze\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWorking for Instacart — buying and delivering groceries to strangers — at first felt like Michaellita Fortier's childhood dream of starring on the speed-shopping TV show \u003cem>Supermarket Sweep\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was fun in the beginning,\" Fortier says. She felt like she was helping people in need, while making as much as $16 or $20 per delivery. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, the app inundated her with orders worth half that, $7 or $9 per delivery. For that money, she was expected to go to the store, shop, fill a cart and deliver an order, sometimes driving 10 or 15 miles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I thought, now listen, this is less than minimum wage you want me to drive [for],\" Fortier says. After seven months of working for Instacart in West Michigan, she quit the gig in October.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millions of Americans like Fortier have counted on platforms like Instacart, DoorDash, Uber or Lyft not just as a service, but as a job. Quickly, they find themselves at the mercy of an algorithm — ever-changing pay structures, no assurance of a minimum wage, the smallest tweak of the app capable of upending their livelihoods. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/gettyimages-1153149270_custom-ead631dafa708c3092ff9131fe8b4ccfbd02ea27-e1574716602860.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135662\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the heart of Instacart workers' frustration are the constant and murky changes to how the company assigns work and determines its value. \u003ccite>(Rafael Henrique/SOPA Images/LightRocket via Getty)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In recent months, Instacart — the most popular grocery-delivery app — has faced a new wave of discontent and even \u003ca href=\"https://slate.com/business/2019/11/instacart-workers-striking-app-user-interface-dark-pattern-design.html\">a strike over pay\u003c/a>. The company relies on more than 130,000 people to log on and help strangers with their groceries. As NPR first \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/05/25/722811953/why-suburban-moms-are-delivering-your-groceries\">reported in May\u003c/a>, the majority of them are women. All are independent contractors — and their grievances are extensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR spoke or exchanged messages with more than 40 current and former Instacart workers. At the heart of their frustration are the constant and murky changes to how the company assigns work and determines its value. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was extremely clear before how much you would be paid per item, how much you would be paid per order,\" says Liz Temkin, 63, who's worked for Instacart in Los Angeles for over four years. \"And then they came up with a completely different what we call a black box algorithm.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Value of work\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An Instacart representative declined to speak on the record, but pointed out that in February, the company did commit to a guaranteed minimum pay: $7 to $10 per job. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This one job can vary from a quick grocery run to a big stock-up at Costco. Or it might mean multiple orders compiled together — delivering several payments to Instacart, and one to the worker. Though Instacart says its pay does account for the size, weight, distance and other factors of all the included orders. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We used to get $10 to go to the store, and 40 cents an item. Now, no matter how many items and how many units we get, they pay us $7 — maybe there's a tip, maybe there's not,\" says Mercedes Maltese, 42, who joined Instacart in 2017 in a suburb of Detroit, after losing full- and part-time jobs in succession. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135663\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0005_custom-f5b8a5e4fbe34fab62484f8569a7da18273cbcb4-e1574716637454.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135663\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">NPR connected with more than 40 current and former Instacart contractors. They say being a faster, nicer or more experienced worker for the app did not guarantee better pay. \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Maltese says her options are other minimum-wage jobs, and with Instacart she can at least try to work as many hours as possible. However, Instacart also does not pay for the drive \u003cem>to \u003c/em>the store — only from the store to the customer — and so Maltese spends much of her workday sitting in her car, unpaid, waiting for a decent order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I work ... seven days a week,\" she says, her voice swelling with tears. \"I just have to work and live in my car like a homeless person, in some kind of hopes of scraping up some kind of money in order to pay my bills.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In interviews, Instacart CEO Apoorva Mehta often brings up the difficulty of constantly matching the supply and demand of grocery orders to workers. His company, expected to go public as soon as next year, is valued at nearly $8 billion. In May, Mehta \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnbc.com/2019/05/15/instacart-ceo-apoorva-mehta-were-ready-for-split-from-whole-foods.html\">told CNBC\u003c/a> that Instacart is profitable on every delivery. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Uber in ride-sharing, Instacart grew nationwide thanks to algorithms assigning and putting value on work — and to a virtually unlimited pool of workers giving the app a try. In August, Instacart said its worker ranks almost tripled in one year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Algorithmic control\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Algorithmic despotism\" was the term that sociologists applied to Instacart in \u003ca href=\"https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/2378023119870041\">an August paper\u003c/a>. The researchers found that the company stood out among competing apps for just how much it pushed workers to commit long hours and accept unattractive gigs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Instacart, we found in particular, really did control the labor process, or control workers' experiences and limited their autonomy over their time and over the work they could do, in a significant way,\" lead author Kathleen Griesbach of Columbia University told NPR. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0001_custom-42c30a4503f2aba8fd2b50bf22f4ea3b9dddd3d9-e1574716658286.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135664\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teri Smith knits a pair of socks in a Kroger parking lot in Arlington, Texas, while she waits for Instacart to offer her a new grocery order. She signs up for shifts with Instacart five or six days a week. \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The research, which received some funding from the United Food and Commercial Workers union, studied algorithmic control of food-delivery workers by surveying 995 people who gigged for DoorDash, Postmates, Grubhub and other apps. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instacart dismissed the study, arguing that it relied on an outdated understanding of the app's workflow. A company spokesperson did not address the research on the record, but pointed out that its contractors now can work more flexibly \"on demand\" — grabbing assignments whenever, as orders come in — in addition to signing up for two-hour shifts featured in the study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The majority of the 40-some workers who spoke to NPR said they worked both the old way and the new way — and either way, being faster, nicer or more experienced did not guarantee better pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shift system has various rules for getting or \u003ca href=\"https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-07-15/instacart-hounds-workers-to-take-jobs-that-aren-t-worth-it\">even rejecting\u003c/a> work. Many who rely on Instacart for full-time work scramble every week to sign up for enough hours. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I live and die by my 9:20 Sunday morning alarm,\" says Teri Smith, 46, who's worked for Instacart in Arlington, Texas, for over a year. Once the hours are available at 9:30, \"it's a frantic tap to get all the hours before they're all gone — and then by 9:31 everything is gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0011_custom-74f5d3dc6037f06ce116793a07d83649207776ea-e1574716692676.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135665\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In a matter of a year, Smith says she noticed Instacart's pay declining for each order she shops and delivers: \"I was making the same amount of money in 40 hours that I'm making in 50 now.\" \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The new on-demand structure leaves many workers glued to their phone screens. They rush against each other to snatch up orders, with little time to thoroughly calculate whether shopping and delivering is worth time, gas and extra miles on their cars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Trying to quickly analyze and make an educated decision ... is next to impossible,\" says Cynthia Phillips, 58, who's been shopping for Instacart in southern California for almost two years. Instacart \"gets to pay less and less for services knowing that someone will end up taking the batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Opaque changes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instacart workers' \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/4/20947832/instacart-shoppers-strike\">latest strike\u003c/a> this month was over changes to tipping, which workers say is still a hefty chunk of their income. Instacart used to set a default tip of 10% per order, but now, it's half that. Meanwhile, the tip is in addition to a \"delivery\" fee and a \"service\" fee that both go to Instacart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The subject of tipping is particularly sensitive for Instacart workers. In February, the company had to \u003ca href=\"https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/carolineodonovan/after-scrutiny-instacart-will-end-its-controversial-tipping\">refund workers\u003c/a> after they noticed that Instacart was using their tips to subsidize the minimum payment it promised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135666\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/0111919nprinstacart0021_custom-85c34d8ca64bdbbca70304a1425a3f7604c82ff5-e1574716724730.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1279\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135666\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smith loads a Instacart customer's groceries in the back of her van. \"I actually love grocery shopping,\" she says, \"the only thing I'm asking for is to be paid fairly.\" \u003ccite>(Allison V. Smith for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Right after the strike, Instacart made yet another change: It stopped paying the $3 quality bonus that rewarded each five-star review from a customer. Workers point out that for many of them, this bonus had already been a downgrade from Instacart's previous scheme, which rewarded the best-rated workers with $100 for the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Strikers have accused Instacart of retaliation. The company told NPR the timing was coincidental and the $3 quality bonus had been a test that did not meaningfully improve the quality of work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I could usually count on getting that bonus about 30% of my time. [That's] 10 orders a week, so now I'm $30 down,\" says Smith, who picked up Instacart as her primary income in August 2018, after her family struggled to run a toy store they'd opened in a Dallas suburb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a matter of a year, Smith says she's noticed Instacart's pay declining for each order: \"I was making the same amount of money in 40 hours that I'm making in 50 now,\" she says. Asked whether she makes minimum wage, Smith says: \"Oh, heck no.\" Not after expenses, she says, like gas for her 12-year-old car.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grocery delivery \"is a service that's definitely needed for people ... and I love doing it,\" she says. \"The only thing I'm asking for is to be paid fairly.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "After Nearly Shutting Down, Smoke Berkeley Finds Hope with Spats Partnership",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Barbeque joint \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://smokeberkeley.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smoke Berkeley\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is now melding its delicious Texas-style smokes with the offerings of quirky neighborhood pub Spats. Thanks to a restaurant-bar partnership between the two, Smoke Berkeley reopened this September, following an uncertain few months where the restaurant was displaced from its previous location.\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='checkplease_10334' label='More on Smoke Berkeley']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The family-owned eatery became known for its Texas-style barbeque, which Chef Tina Ferguson-Riffe brought with her all the way to the East Bay. Her signature dry rubbed brisket and vinegar-based sauce draw on the variations of barbeque found throughout the state and have amassed a following for its authentic preparation. The restaurant is also one of the few local barbeque spots that smokes all of its meats in-house.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I grew up, barbeque was just a special thing that we loved,” said Ferguson-Riffe, who honed her culinary skills in smokehouses in Dallas, Texas and at the Cordon Bleu Culinary Academy in Paris. “I smoked just about anything.” Ferguson-Riffe’s cooking won awards back in the South and built Smoke Berkeley into a community staple — the restaurant even appeared \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7r5GWb_5W-g\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">on an episode\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of KQED’s Check, Please! Bay Area in 2014.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But after operating for almost 8 years out of their San Pablo space, Smoke Berkeley co-owners Ferguson-Riffe and husband Jed Riffe eventually found themselves in a tight spot: they would have to either relocate or close shop. The dilemma began back in late 2017 after the pair received a notice from their building’s management.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We got a call from the owners saying they were going to tear us down to build what they said was a car wash,” recounted Jed Riffe. “Now they’re building a two-story office building, and we could’ve been on the first floor.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That launched their years-long search for a new home, which the co-owners found to be an incredibly difficult process, especially for an establishment that uses special equipment like smokers. “Not only were my hands tied behind my back, but they were tied to my feet because of the smoke issue,” said general manager Sean Hagler referring to the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cityofberkeley.info/Health_Human_Services/Environmental_Health/Smoking_Pollution_Program.aspx\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">City of Berkeley’s outdoor smoking regulations\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which apply to restaurants as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135571\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1641px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135571\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate.jpg\" alt=\"Smoke Berkeley BBQ Plate\" width=\"1641\" height=\"1094\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate.jpg 1641w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1641px) 100vw, 1641px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoke Berkeley BBQ Plate \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Smoke Berkeley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smoke Berkeley would need to find a space that was not only affordable but could also manage to ventilate the large amount of fumes emitted from the restaurant’s many industrial smokers. Riffe said finding a suitable location was next to impossible and that the few buildings with potential would cost up to hundreds of thousands just to move in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That expensive reality left Smoke Berkeley with little option other than to ride out the rest of their lease, which was set to expire in June 2019. Ferguson-Riffe and co. had been able to push property management to allow them to operate until the end of July, which is their most successful month of the year due to appetites on Independence Day.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sadly, an electrical issue hit the restaurant this summer, leaving them without power and putting a dent in their plans. Since Smoke was going to be shutting down regardless, fronting the high price of repairs to restore power in the short-term would be futile. Generators in the interim proved to be costly and inefficient, and the restaurant opted to close for an indefinite period.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You know what we said, we’re done...having a restaurant in today’s market with meat costs going up three or four times in the past two to three years. We have to deal with rent, the power increases, all the complexities of EDD and tax ramifications. I mean all of this makes it so unreasonable to even have a restaurant,” said Hagler.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B2z3HAHh3Wj/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Just as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/06/24/smoke-berkeley-will-serve-its-last-plates-of-texas-bbq-today\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a report from Berkeleyside\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> came out chronicling Smoke Berkeley’s displacement, a call came in from Spats co-owner Mark Rhoades, a fan of theirs who had heard about their dilemma.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a brick and mortar that is over a century old, the space that is now Spats has undergone multiple variations. It’s been a ticketing station for a train to North Berkeley, it was a restaurant called Oleg’s in the 1950s and in the late 70’s, it transitioned to become Spats. After closing for a few years, the historical bar reopened in 2015 with new management and a large kitchen ready for partnerships.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The kitchen had housed a few pop up vendors in the past but to little success. However, Smoke Berkeley, which had built a reputation in the city and grew its own clientele of regulars over the years, presented Spats with a new opportunity to create a long-standing partnership. And for Smoke, Spats’ kitchen, equipped with multiple cutting edge ventilation hoods, provided them the ideal space to continue smoking their delicious meats.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smoke Berkeley officially reopened for business in late September and has been steadily recruiting new customers while spreading the word to reach former regulars who frequented their San Pablo location. Ferguson-Riffe has also worked to expand her menu by including vegetarian and vegan options with a BBQ tofu base.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135572\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135572\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Smoke Berkeley storefront. \" width=\"1600\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoke Berkeley storefront. \u003ccite>(Chris Cox/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both establishments hope that their partnership can serve as hope for small businesses finding themselves hitting hard times. “My thought is their success is our success. The more people that are coming in and eating their food, the more people that are drinking my drinks. The more people that come in and drink my drinks, the more they’re going to order the food,” said Spats general manager Craig McClain.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Ferguson-Riffe, Spats’ proximity to UC Berkeley and community outreach events is also an opportunity to connect with a new side of the city.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“This space has so many opportunities. Every night there’s something going on here that draws people in and makes them go ‘Oh, wait. Do I smell barbeque? Oh Smoke is here!’ It really has made a difference.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Barbeque joint \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://smokeberkeley.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smoke Berkeley\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is now melding its delicious Texas-style smokes with the offerings of quirky neighborhood pub Spats. Thanks to a restaurant-bar partnership between the two, Smoke Berkeley reopened this September, following an uncertain few months where the restaurant was displaced from its previous location.\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The family-owned eatery became known for its Texas-style barbeque, which Chef Tina Ferguson-Riffe brought with her all the way to the East Bay. Her signature dry rubbed brisket and vinegar-based sauce draw on the variations of barbeque found throughout the state and have amassed a following for its authentic preparation. The restaurant is also one of the few local barbeque spots that smokes all of its meats in-house.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I grew up, barbeque was just a special thing that we loved,” said Ferguson-Riffe, who honed her culinary skills in smokehouses in Dallas, Texas and at the Cordon Bleu Culinary Academy in Paris. “I smoked just about anything.” Ferguson-Riffe’s cooking won awards back in the South and built Smoke Berkeley into a community staple — the restaurant even appeared \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7r5GWb_5W-g\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">on an episode\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> of KQED’s Check, Please! Bay Area in 2014.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But after operating for almost 8 years out of their San Pablo space, Smoke Berkeley co-owners Ferguson-Riffe and husband Jed Riffe eventually found themselves in a tight spot: they would have to either relocate or close shop. The dilemma began back in late 2017 after the pair received a notice from their building’s management.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We got a call from the owners saying they were going to tear us down to build what they said was a car wash,” recounted Jed Riffe. “Now they’re building a two-story office building, and we could’ve been on the first floor.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That launched their years-long search for a new home, which the co-owners found to be an incredibly difficult process, especially for an establishment that uses special equipment like smokers. “Not only were my hands tied behind my back, but they were tied to my feet because of the smoke issue,” said general manager Sean Hagler referring to the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.cityofberkeley.info/Health_Human_Services/Environmental_Health/Smoking_Pollution_Program.aspx\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">City of Berkeley’s outdoor smoking regulations\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, which apply to restaurants as well.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135571\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1641px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135571\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate.jpg\" alt=\"Smoke Berkeley BBQ Plate\" width=\"1641\" height=\"1094\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate.jpg 1641w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Smoke-BBQplate-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1641px) 100vw, 1641px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoke Berkeley BBQ Plate \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Smoke Berkeley)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smoke Berkeley would need to find a space that was not only affordable but could also manage to ventilate the large amount of fumes emitted from the restaurant’s many industrial smokers. Riffe said finding a suitable location was next to impossible and that the few buildings with potential would cost up to hundreds of thousands just to move in.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That expensive reality left Smoke Berkeley with little option other than to ride out the rest of their lease, which was set to expire in June 2019. Ferguson-Riffe and co. had been able to push property management to allow them to operate until the end of July, which is their most successful month of the year due to appetites on Independence Day.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sadly, an electrical issue hit the restaurant this summer, leaving them without power and putting a dent in their plans. Since Smoke was going to be shutting down regardless, fronting the high price of repairs to restore power in the short-term would be futile. Generators in the interim proved to be costly and inefficient, and the restaurant opted to close for an indefinite period.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“You know what we said, we’re done...having a restaurant in today’s market with meat costs going up three or four times in the past two to three years. We have to deal with rent, the power increases, all the complexities of EDD and tax ramifications. I mean all of this makes it so unreasonable to even have a restaurant,” said Hagler.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Just as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/06/24/smoke-berkeley-will-serve-its-last-plates-of-texas-bbq-today\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a report from Berkeleyside\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> came out chronicling Smoke Berkeley’s displacement, a call came in from Spats co-owner Mark Rhoades, a fan of theirs who had heard about their dilemma.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a brick and mortar that is over a century old, the space that is now Spats has undergone multiple variations. It’s been a ticketing station for a train to North Berkeley, it was a restaurant called Oleg’s in the 1950s and in the late 70’s, it transitioned to become Spats. After closing for a few years, the historical bar reopened in 2015 with new management and a large kitchen ready for partnerships.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The kitchen had housed a few pop up vendors in the past but to little success. However, Smoke Berkeley, which had built a reputation in the city and grew its own clientele of regulars over the years, presented Spats with a new opportunity to create a long-standing partnership. And for Smoke, Spats’ kitchen, equipped with multiple cutting edge ventilation hoods, provided them the ideal space to continue smoking their delicious meats.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smoke Berkeley officially reopened for business in late September and has been steadily recruiting new customers while spreading the word to reach former regulars who frequented their San Pablo location. Ferguson-Riffe has also worked to expand her menu by including vegetarian and vegan options with a BBQ tofu base.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135572\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135572\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Smoke Berkeley storefront. \" width=\"1600\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/smokes-exterior-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Smoke Berkeley storefront. \u003ccite>(Chris Cox/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both establishments hope that their partnership can serve as hope for small businesses finding themselves hitting hard times. “My thought is their success is our success. The more people that are coming in and eating their food, the more people that are drinking my drinks. The more people that come in and drink my drinks, the more they’re going to order the food,” said Spats general manager Craig McClain.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Ferguson-Riffe, Spats’ proximity to UC Berkeley and community outreach events is also an opportunity to connect with a new side of the city.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“This space has so many opportunities. Every night there’s something going on here that draws people in and makes them go ‘Oh, wait. Do I smell barbeque? Oh Smoke is here!’ It really has made a difference.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"soldout": {
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