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"bio": "\u003ca href=\"http://www.sarahhenrywriter.com/\">Sarah Henry\u003c/a> hails from Sydney, Australia, where she grew up eating lamingtons, Vegemite, and prawns (not shrimp) on the barbie (barbecue). Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. A contributor to the national food policy site \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, her stories have also appeared in \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/sarah-henry/\">The Atlantic\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.afar.com/highlights/kamal-mouzawaks-beirut-lebanon\">AFAR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5207-a-family-tied-together-by-apron-strings\">Gilt Taste\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lhj.com/community/your-stories/whats-for-dinner-dude/?page=1\">Ladies' Home Journal\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/author/sarah-henry/\">Grist\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shareable.net/users/sarah-henry\">Shareable\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/food_news_origins/green_sustainable/host_a_diy_food_swap\">Eating Well\u003c/a>. An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.",
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"disqusTitle": "Toast: A Slice of Nigel Slater's Life Comes to the Silver Screen",
"title": "Toast: A Slice of Nigel Slater's Life Comes to the Silver Screen",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\" alt=\"Toast poster\" title=\"Toast poster\" width=\"300\" height=\"444\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-34043\">\u003c/a>Gosh the Brits know how to do misery, don't they? Miserable weather, miserable class distinctions, miserable food, circa 1960s at least. (The Anglophiles among us need not get their knickers in a twist: Word that there's now fab fare to be found in Britain has leaked out.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the grim, gray food of an earlier generation is on full display in the autobiographical film \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1658851/\">\"Toast,\"\u003c/a> based on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619/ref=tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1318267645&sr=8-1\">memoir\u003c/a> of the same name by popular English cookbook author, food writer, and TV show host \u003ca href=\"http://www.nigelslater.com/home.asp\">Nigel Slater\u003c/a>. (Regular readers may recall a recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">review of his latest tome, \u003cem>Tender\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an homage to the humble veg, in a delightful Stephanie Rosenbaum post.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no sugar coating it: Slater's early years were incredibly sad and lonely. The untimely death of his beloved mother, a simply awful cook who adored her boy and he her. Her only culinary saving grace: Toast with lashings of butter served up for dinner after another canned-food failure. Slater had a difficult relationship with his father, who made cheese sandwiches for days on end after the death of his wife. Something of a bully, the father also made it clear his son was a huge disappointment to him. Add to this equation the evil stepmother, played with trollopy gusto by Helena Bonham Carter, who wormed her way into their lives, first as an obsessive cleaner and then with her culinary (and, we're given ample evidence to believe, sexual) prowess. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The woman may have been cheap as chips but she knew how to cook -- and bake. Oh my, that lemon meringue pie!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the film, with screenplay by Lee Hall who wrote \"Billy Elliott,\" the adolescent Slater (Freddie Highmore) is locked in a culinary clash with his despised stepmother for the attention and affection of his father. He loses, of course, and blames his stepmother for the early death of his father. Moviegoers will get the sense she literally fed him to death; the cakes, pies, and roasts just keep coming out of the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" title=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34088\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Victoria Hamilton as Nigel's mother and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The role of food in families -- as both a comfort and a weapon -- is at the heart of this movie, which makes great use of the anguished music of Dusty Springfield for its soundtrack. Dinner time in the Slater household was a desperately unhappy affair. Still, the young Slater finds refuge in food, sneaking cookbooks under the covers to read up on recipes, excelling in his Home Economics class, and triumphing over his stepmom by perfecting his own lemon meringue pie, which pops off the screen as a bright yellow gelatinous mass with a mound of white peaks expertly browned on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As in many children's fairy tales, his stepmom also provides his liberation: Following his father's death he simply walks out of her life and flees to London, where a future in food is his for the taking, and he never sees her again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sweet end note, Slater appears in a cameo as himself, reassuring his younger self, who is desperate to find a kitchen job (at the Savoy Hotel, no less) that everything will be fine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for the food world, it is. Slater is the author of ten books, many bestsellers, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Real-Fast-Food-Ready-Eat/dp/1590201159/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_3\">\u003cem>Real Fast Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Appetite-Nigel-Slater/dp/0609610783/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_8\">\u003cem>Appetite\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Diaries-Year-Nigel-Slater/dp/B002BWQ5EA/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_5\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. A food columnist for \u003cem>The Observer\u003c/em> for almost two decades, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619\">Toast\u003c/a>\u003c/em> the memoir, which won several major awards, including British Biography of the Year, began marinating as a column.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" title=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" width=\"560\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34045\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ken Stott as Nigel's father and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps unsurprisingly, the adult Slater is not fond of fussy food, he prefers simple suppers made with care and thought, using quality ingredients. And despite his upbringing, he believes that making something good to eat for yourself or for others can lift the spirits in the way little else can. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In an interesting twist, the daughters of Slater's now deceased stepmother denounced his portrayal of her in \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1345405/Nigel-Slaters-stepsisters-accuse-food-writer-cruel-lies-mother-seeing-BBCs-Toast.html\">the British press\u003c/a> earlier this year. The very different accounts of their childhood years serves to remind us that every person's version of the truth can vary wildly. On this much, though, all parties seem to agree: Slater's early years were full of rejection and loss. Indeed the subtitle of his book \"A Boy and His Hunger\" is both a nod to his need for real, nourishing food and genuine, nourishing love.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked what's missing from the movie, Slater responds without missing a beat: The sex. \"\u003cem>Toast\u003c/em> is a sexy little book, there's a lot of adolescent sex in those pages and they form an integral part of the story,\" he said in an interview yesterday. \"It doesn't really matter in the movie but honestly I would have liked to have seen a bit more of it. \"Toast\" was made for prime-time viewing in Britain at Christmas, and I think they wanted a film that the whole family could watch, not something adolescent boys might squirm at.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movie only hints at the teenage Slater's emerging sexuality; it reveals his crush on a family gardener and a first kiss in the woods with a local boy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the food writer's memoir should not hold their breath for \u003cem>Toast: The Second Slice\u003c/em>. Here's why: \"I'm a very private person and tend to keep to myself, in part because I don't think I'm that interesting,\" Slater said. \"That memoir was the most intimate of memoirs and to this day I don't really know why I did it. But I was writing as a little boy and I was somehow able to differentiate it from my adult self. I stopped at 18 and I've protected myself ever since, I went back into my shell.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's more. \"In practical terms, if I were to do a second book, it would be more a conventional memoir,\" he said, adding, \"and I'd have to write about other people's lives, people who are still alive, and I don't want to intrude on their privacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when many of us wax on about the pleasures of the table (this writer included), \"Toast\" reminds us that food can cause major misery in many people's lives. Audience goers will likely find themselves reflecting on their own childhood food memories while watching the film. Thankfully, this being a decidedly British film, there's a lot of black humor amid the sorrow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as well, too, because this writer, who wanted to rush home and bake her teenage son a cake after seeing the film, found herself wincing at the pain of it all at times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Toast\" opens in Bay Area cinemas this Friday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/EBGMJ2XpBI8\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/toast-poster.jpg\" alt=\"Toast poster\" title=\"Toast poster\" width=\"300\" height=\"444\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-34043\">\u003c/a>Gosh the Brits know how to do misery, don't they? Miserable weather, miserable class distinctions, miserable food, circa 1960s at least. (The Anglophiles among us need not get their knickers in a twist: Word that there's now fab fare to be found in Britain has leaked out.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the grim, gray food of an earlier generation is on full display in the autobiographical film \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1658851/\">\"Toast,\"\u003c/a> based on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619/ref=tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1318267645&sr=8-1\">memoir\u003c/a> of the same name by popular English cookbook author, food writer, and TV show host \u003ca href=\"http://www.nigelslater.com/home.asp\">Nigel Slater\u003c/a>. (Regular readers may recall a recent \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/22/book-review-tender-by-nigel-slater/\">review of his latest tome, \u003cem>Tender\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, an homage to the humble veg, in a delightful Stephanie Rosenbaum post.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no sugar coating it: Slater's early years were incredibly sad and lonely. The untimely death of his beloved mother, a simply awful cook who adored her boy and he her. Her only culinary saving grace: Toast with lashings of butter served up for dinner after another canned-food failure. Slater had a difficult relationship with his father, who made cheese sandwiches for days on end after the death of his wife. Something of a bully, the father also made it clear his son was a huge disappointment to him. Add to this equation the evil stepmother, played with trollopy gusto by Helena Bonham Carter, who wormed her way into their lives, first as an obsessive cleaner and then with her culinary (and, we're given ample evidence to believe, sexual) prowess. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The woman may have been cheap as chips but she knew how to cook -- and bake. Oh my, that lemon meringue pie!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the film, with screenplay by Lee Hall who wrote \"Billy Elliott,\" the adolescent Slater (Freddie Highmore) is locked in a culinary clash with his despised stepmother for the attention and affection of his father. He loses, of course, and blames his stepmother for the early death of his father. Moviegoers will get the sense she literally fed him to death; the cakes, pies, and roasts just keep coming out of the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-mum-tarts.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" title=\"Nigel and his mother baking tarts\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34088\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Victoria Hamilton as Nigel's mother and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The role of food in families -- as both a comfort and a weapon -- is at the heart of this movie, which makes great use of the anguished music of Dusty Springfield for its soundtrack. Dinner time in the Slater household was a desperately unhappy affair. Still, the young Slater finds refuge in food, sneaking cookbooks under the covers to read up on recipes, excelling in his Home Economics class, and triumphing over his stepmom by perfecting his own lemon meringue pie, which pops off the screen as a bright yellow gelatinous mass with a mound of white peaks expertly browned on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As in many children's fairy tales, his stepmom also provides his liberation: Following his father's death he simply walks out of her life and flees to London, where a future in food is his for the taking, and he never sees her again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sweet end note, Slater appears in a cameo as himself, reassuring his younger self, who is desperate to find a kitchen job (at the Savoy Hotel, no less) that everything will be fine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for the food world, it is. Slater is the author of ten books, many bestsellers, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Real-Fast-Food-Ready-Eat/dp/1590201159/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_3\">\u003cem>Real Fast Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Appetite-Nigel-Slater/dp/0609610783/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_8\">\u003cem>Appetite\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Diaries-Year-Nigel-Slater/dp/B002BWQ5EA/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_5\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. A food columnist for \u003cem>The Observer\u003c/em> for almost two decades, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Toast-Nigel-Slater/dp/1592401619\">Toast\u003c/a>\u003c/em> the memoir, which won several major awards, including British Biography of the Year, began marinating as a column.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/10/nigel-father-dinner.jpg\" alt=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" title=\"Nigel and father at dinner table\" width=\"560\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-34045\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ken Stott as Nigel's father and Oscar Kennedy as young Nigel Slater.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps unsurprisingly, the adult Slater is not fond of fussy food, he prefers simple suppers made with care and thought, using quality ingredients. And despite his upbringing, he believes that making something good to eat for yourself or for others can lift the spirits in the way little else can. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In an interesting twist, the daughters of Slater's now deceased stepmother denounced his portrayal of her in \u003ca href=\"http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1345405/Nigel-Slaters-stepsisters-accuse-food-writer-cruel-lies-mother-seeing-BBCs-Toast.html\">the British press\u003c/a> earlier this year. The very different accounts of their childhood years serves to remind us that every person's version of the truth can vary wildly. On this much, though, all parties seem to agree: Slater's early years were full of rejection and loss. Indeed the subtitle of his book \"A Boy and His Hunger\" is both a nod to his need for real, nourishing food and genuine, nourishing love.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked what's missing from the movie, Slater responds without missing a beat: The sex. \"\u003cem>Toast\u003c/em> is a sexy little book, there's a lot of adolescent sex in those pages and they form an integral part of the story,\" he said in an interview yesterday. \"It doesn't really matter in the movie but honestly I would have liked to have seen a bit more of it. \"Toast\" was made for prime-time viewing in Britain at Christmas, and I think they wanted a film that the whole family could watch, not something adolescent boys might squirm at.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movie only hints at the teenage Slater's emerging sexuality; it reveals his crush on a family gardener and a first kiss in the woods with a local boy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fans of the food writer's memoir should not hold their breath for \u003cem>Toast: The Second Slice\u003c/em>. Here's why: \"I'm a very private person and tend to keep to myself, in part because I don't think I'm that interesting,\" Slater said. \"That memoir was the most intimate of memoirs and to this day I don't really know why I did it. But I was writing as a little boy and I was somehow able to differentiate it from my adult self. I stopped at 18 and I've protected myself ever since, I went back into my shell.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's more. \"In practical terms, if I were to do a second book, it would be more a conventional memoir,\" he said, adding, \"and I'd have to write about other people's lives, people who are still alive, and I don't want to intrude on their privacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a time when many of us wax on about the pleasures of the table (this writer included), \"Toast\" reminds us that food can cause major misery in many people's lives. Audience goers will likely find themselves reflecting on their own childhood food memories while watching the film. Thankfully, this being a decidedly British film, there's a lot of black humor amid the sorrow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just as well, too, because this writer, who wanted to rush home and bake her teenage son a cake after seeing the film, found herself wincing at the pain of it all at times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Toast\" opens in Bay Area cinemas this Friday.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Review: Oyster Culture",
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"content": "\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oyster-culture-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" title=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" width=\"300\" height=\"391\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-32736\">\u003c/a>What's on your locavore's barbecue this Labor Day weekend? A slab of beef tri-tip, our favorite regional cut, sliced and nestled up to a stack of red torpedo onions and dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes sounds mighty tasty. If you prefer fish, try a side of grilled sockeye or king salmon topped with this easy \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/28/double-corn-delight/\">corn relish\u003c/a>. And to start, what captures the taste of our unique coastal landscape than a a platter of oysters plucked from the salt-sweet estuaries of Tomales Bay or Point Reyes? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can shuck and serve them raw, with nothing more than a squirt of lemon and a shake of hot sauce, or get a little more fancy with a saucer of mignonette sauce. Mignonette may sound lah-di-dah, but it's nothing more than a tart dunk of minced shallot, black pepper, and champagne vinegar. At its popular restaurant and oyster bar in the Ferry Building, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> has California-ized this French classic into a \"Hog Wash\" of shallot, minced jalapeno, cilantro, and both seasoned and plain rice vinegar. Or you can raise a toast to a particularly local tradition and barbecue them right on the grill. No shucking required; just place oysters, flat side up, on a hot grill until the shells pop open. Off the heat, remove the top shell, loosen the oyster within with a quick swipe of an oyster knife, and top with your favorite barbecue sauce. You can return the oysters to the grill for a minute or two to heat the sauce through. Whatever you do, the oysters will be sexy and succulent, with a clean ocean taste like the first fresh slap of a wave against your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your appetite is whetted, you might want to know more about these intriguing little bivalves, so rich in history and lore. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">Oyster Culture\u003c/a> by Gwendolyn Meyer and Doreen Schmid, is a great place to start. Illustrated with Meyer's beautiful, evocative black-and-white and color photographs as well as historical documents and pictures, the book, published by Petaluma's Cameron Press, delves into the history and ecology of the local oyster industry. How did the book happen? Via email, Meyer told us, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The book evolved from a photo essay on how oysters are farmed on one farm into the bigger story of oyster farming out here in West Marin. I started shooting grainy black and white film images back in 2001 out on the water and the gritty grainy look captured the hard working farmers on the bay on its foggy overcast cold windy days. The Tomales Bay is a special and unique place, one of the few clean estuariane systems left in California. The water-based farms fascinated me, and being out on the bay was captivating. Getting to know some of the people involved with oysters here and the history of the east shore-- I realized that there was a story that hadn't been told. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos from Oyster Culture copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People in California have been eating oysters for centuries. Archaeological digs at Coast Miwok campsites have revealed piles of oyster, mussel, and clam shells. The native oyster of California's indigenous peoples and first settlers was the small, coppery-tasting Olympia oyster, Ostreo lurida. It has since been replaced, first by Atlantic varieties shipped in from the East Coast, then, since the 1930s, by Japanese Pacific varieties like the Miyagi and the Kumamoto. At first, commercial oyster farming was concentrated in San Francisco Bay, but as silt and pollution threatened the beds, the oyster companies looked north, to the more pristine estuaries of Tomales Bay and the Point Reyes peninsula. Oysters thrive in flat tidal estuaries where the river meets the sea, as part of a very particular coastal ecology. Once railways were established, linking the once-remote hamlets of West Marin to San Francisco and the surrounding towns, local aquaculture took off. As \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> notes, \"For a brief moment in the 1950s, Tomales Bay was the largest oyster producer in California. Today, it is the state's smallest production area, but home of its oldest oyster farm and last oyster-canning factory, at Drakes Bay Estero.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using an attractive and inviting layout, \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> explores both the natural and cultural histories of oysters, oyster farming, and oyster-eating around the Bay Area. At an early age, left to its own devices, an oyster attaches itself permanently to whatever solid surface it can find. Raising oysters is more like farming, or raising livestock, than fishing, since the oysters stay where they're planted. Marin's oyster companies, including Hog Island, \u003ca href=\"http://tomalesbayoysters.com/\">Tomales Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pointreyesoyster.com\">Point Reyes Oyster Company\u003c/a>, Cove Mussel Company, the Marin Oyster Company, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a> (formerly Johnson's Oyster Farm), have evolved their own systems for raising and growing their oysters, each producing slightly different results. Along with ranching and farming, the oyster industry makes up a significant part of Marin's agricultural history and current agricultural and aquaculture-based economy. As Meyer told us,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"What was striking to me was how involved and familiar with every aspect of oysters everyone who works with them is, from the oyster bar shuckers to the farmers. There is a wealth of information about the oyster, and people who work with oysters know so much. Everyone in the industry has a particular philosophy about how they grow. Their understanding of the bay and the water and the environment they work in is impressive. I think a memorable story comes from Jorge out at Drakes Bay. Jorge has worked on the water for 30-plus years at Drakes Bay, for the Lunny family and the Johnsons before them. One early morning, he and Kevin Lunny got disoriented in the fog out on the estero. The fog blanketed out any recognizable features and they got didn’t know which way was home. They mistook the light on shore for that of a boat and headed away from it towards the ocean, which could have been disastrous. Fortunately, they managed to figure it out and didn’t head out to sea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story reminded me how even experienced [oyster] farmers with years of working on the same body of water are at the mercy of changing conditions. It may look calm and protected out there on the bay and estero, but it’s a landscape very much affected by many influences, both natural and man-made. I think the environment keeps farmers constantly on their toes.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Eat a local oyster, and you're supporting local jobs, something that makes putting oysters on the menu particularly appropriate for Labor Day. It's cold, wet work, tending to the rough-shelled babies out in the Bay, scrubbing and shucking, but it's an industry with deep roots, one that both provides jobs and presents a model for how for-profit agricultural businesses can work within protected parklands. \"Because Tomales Bay is part of the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, the farm [Hog Island], like all those within this sanctuary, works with over twenty agencies that manage land use and water quality in and around the Bay,\" the authors write. Says Hog Island co-owner Terry Sawyer, \"None of this would be here without the Point Reyes National Seashore--we all owe a huge debt to its creation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that she's an oyster expert, what oyster does Meyer prefer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Lately I’m particularly fond of the Tomales Bay Oyster Company's golden nuggets. They are beautiful oysters that are tumbled, not grown on the bottom, and because of this their shells are really pretty. The oyster itself is a deep-cupped, plump, rich tasting and perfect-looking oyster -- really a delicacy. I believe TBOC is the only farm doing tumbled bags on the bays. I prefer them freshly shucked, on the half shell with a squeeze of lemon. I like their briny taste of the ocean and want the full flavor of that, especially as we come into the winter months when they are at their prime. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Oysters with Chorizo Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Summary:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>This recipe, adapted from the book \u003cstrong>Oyster Culture \u003c/strong>by Gwendolyn Marks and Doreen Schmid, comes from the kitchen of The Marshall Store, a popular seafood restaurant on the eastern side of Tomales Bay. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From the Marshall Store\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" title=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32730\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 24 oysters, serves 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 lb fresh Mexican-style chorizo sausage, removed from casing\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 oz) unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp finely chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n24 oysters \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Soften butter at room temperature. Saute chorizo until thoroughly cooked, then crumble. Place in refrigerator to cool. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place butter in a small bowl and break up with a wooden spoon. Add cooled chorizo and mix thoroughly. Add parsley. Place the mixture in the middle of a sheet of waxed paper. Roll into a 2-inch wide log, twist ends shut, and chill in the refrigerator until firm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. While grill is heating, shuck oysters and leave in shells. When grill is hot, top each opened oyster with a thin slice of butter cut from roll. Cover and cook just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If you don't have an outdoor grill, these oysters can also be cooked under the broiler. To broil, cover an ovenproof plate or platter with a layer of slightly moistened rock salt about 1 inch deep. Set oysters, in shells, on the rock salt, making sure they are level. Top each oyster with a thin slice of chorizo butter. Broil just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Put some barbecued oysters on your locavore grill this weekend. Oyster Culture, a new book by Gwendolyn Meyer and Doreen Schmid, explores the natural and cultural history of oyster farming around the Bay. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oyster-culture-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" title=\"Oyster Culture book cover\" width=\"300\" height=\"391\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-32736\">\u003c/a>What's on your locavore's barbecue this Labor Day weekend? A slab of beef tri-tip, our favorite regional cut, sliced and nestled up to a stack of red torpedo onions and dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes sounds mighty tasty. If you prefer fish, try a side of grilled sockeye or king salmon topped with this easy \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/28/double-corn-delight/\">corn relish\u003c/a>. And to start, what captures the taste of our unique coastal landscape than a a platter of oysters plucked from the salt-sweet estuaries of Tomales Bay or Point Reyes? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can shuck and serve them raw, with nothing more than a squirt of lemon and a shake of hot sauce, or get a little more fancy with a saucer of mignonette sauce. Mignonette may sound lah-di-dah, but it's nothing more than a tart dunk of minced shallot, black pepper, and champagne vinegar. At its popular restaurant and oyster bar in the Ferry Building, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> has California-ized this French classic into a \"Hog Wash\" of shallot, minced jalapeno, cilantro, and both seasoned and plain rice vinegar. Or you can raise a toast to a particularly local tradition and barbecue them right on the grill. No shucking required; just place oysters, flat side up, on a hot grill until the shells pop open. Off the heat, remove the top shell, loosen the oyster within with a quick swipe of an oyster knife, and top with your favorite barbecue sauce. You can return the oysters to the grill for a minute or two to heat the sauce through. Whatever you do, the oysters will be sexy and succulent, with a clean ocean taste like the first fresh slap of a wave against your face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your appetite is whetted, you might want to know more about these intriguing little bivalves, so rich in history and lore. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0918684870/kqedorg-20\">Oyster Culture\u003c/a> by Gwendolyn Meyer and Doreen Schmid, is a great place to start. Illustrated with Meyer's beautiful, evocative black-and-white and color photographs as well as historical documents and pictures, the book, published by Petaluma's Cameron Press, delves into the history and ecology of the local oyster industry. How did the book happen? Via email, Meyer told us, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The book evolved from a photo essay on how oysters are farmed on one farm into the bigger story of oyster farming out here in West Marin. I started shooting grainy black and white film images back in 2001 out on the water and the gritty grainy look captured the hard working farmers on the bay on its foggy overcast cold windy days. The Tomales Bay is a special and unique place, one of the few clean estuariane systems left in California. The water-based farms fascinated me, and being out on the bay was captivating. Getting to know some of the people involved with oysters here and the history of the east shore-- I realized that there was a story that hadn't been told. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Photos from Oyster Culture copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627468950699%2F&set_id=72157627468950699&jump_to=\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People in California have been eating oysters for centuries. Archaeological digs at Coast Miwok campsites have revealed piles of oyster, mussel, and clam shells. The native oyster of California's indigenous peoples and first settlers was the small, coppery-tasting Olympia oyster, Ostreo lurida. It has since been replaced, first by Atlantic varieties shipped in from the East Coast, then, since the 1930s, by Japanese Pacific varieties like the Miyagi and the Kumamoto. At first, commercial oyster farming was concentrated in San Francisco Bay, but as silt and pollution threatened the beds, the oyster companies looked north, to the more pristine estuaries of Tomales Bay and the Point Reyes peninsula. Oysters thrive in flat tidal estuaries where the river meets the sea, as part of a very particular coastal ecology. Once railways were established, linking the once-remote hamlets of West Marin to San Francisco and the surrounding towns, local aquaculture took off. As \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> notes, \"For a brief moment in the 1950s, Tomales Bay was the largest oyster producer in California. Today, it is the state's smallest production area, but home of its oldest oyster farm and last oyster-canning factory, at Drakes Bay Estero.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using an attractive and inviting layout, \u003cem>Oyster Culture\u003c/em> explores both the natural and cultural histories of oysters, oyster farming, and oyster-eating around the Bay Area. At an early age, left to its own devices, an oyster attaches itself permanently to whatever solid surface it can find. Raising oysters is more like farming, or raising livestock, than fishing, since the oysters stay where they're planted. Marin's oyster companies, including Hog Island, \u003ca href=\"http://tomalesbayoysters.com/\">Tomales Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pointreyesoyster.com\">Point Reyes Oyster Company\u003c/a>, Cove Mussel Company, the Marin Oyster Company, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.drakesbayoyster.com/\">Drakes Bay Oyster Company\u003c/a> (formerly Johnson's Oyster Farm), have evolved their own systems for raising and growing their oysters, each producing slightly different results. Along with ranching and farming, the oyster industry makes up a significant part of Marin's agricultural history and current agricultural and aquaculture-based economy. As Meyer told us,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"What was striking to me was how involved and familiar with every aspect of oysters everyone who works with them is, from the oyster bar shuckers to the farmers. There is a wealth of information about the oyster, and people who work with oysters know so much. Everyone in the industry has a particular philosophy about how they grow. Their understanding of the bay and the water and the environment they work in is impressive. I think a memorable story comes from Jorge out at Drakes Bay. Jorge has worked on the water for 30-plus years at Drakes Bay, for the Lunny family and the Johnsons before them. One early morning, he and Kevin Lunny got disoriented in the fog out on the estero. The fog blanketed out any recognizable features and they got didn’t know which way was home. They mistook the light on shore for that of a boat and headed away from it towards the ocean, which could have been disastrous. Fortunately, they managed to figure it out and didn’t head out to sea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story reminded me how even experienced [oyster] farmers with years of working on the same body of water are at the mercy of changing conditions. It may look calm and protected out there on the bay and estero, but it’s a landscape very much affected by many influences, both natural and man-made. I think the environment keeps farmers constantly on their toes.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Eat a local oyster, and you're supporting local jobs, something that makes putting oysters on the menu particularly appropriate for Labor Day. It's cold, wet work, tending to the rough-shelled babies out in the Bay, scrubbing and shucking, but it's an industry with deep roots, one that both provides jobs and presents a model for how for-profit agricultural businesses can work within protected parklands. \"Because Tomales Bay is part of the Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, the farm [Hog Island], like all those within this sanctuary, works with over twenty agencies that manage land use and water quality in and around the Bay,\" the authors write. Says Hog Island co-owner Terry Sawyer, \"None of this would be here without the Point Reyes National Seashore--we all owe a huge debt to its creation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now that she's an oyster expert, what oyster does Meyer prefer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Lately I’m particularly fond of the Tomales Bay Oyster Company's golden nuggets. They are beautiful oysters that are tumbled, not grown on the bottom, and because of this their shells are really pretty. The oyster itself is a deep-cupped, plump, rich tasting and perfect-looking oyster -- really a delicacy. I believe TBOC is the only farm doing tumbled bags on the bays. I prefer them freshly shucked, on the half shell with a squeeze of lemon. I like their briny taste of the ocean and want the full flavor of that, especially as we come into the winter months when they are at their prime. \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Oysters with Chorizo Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Summary:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>This recipe, adapted from the book \u003cstrong>Oyster Culture \u003c/strong>by Gwendolyn Marks and Doreen Schmid, comes from the kitchen of The Marshall Store, a popular seafood restaurant on the eastern side of Tomales Bay. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>From the Marshall Store\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/09/oysters-recipe.jpg\" alt=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" title=\"Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo by Gwendolyn Meyer\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32730\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oysters with Chorizo Sauce. Photo copyright Gwendolyn Meyer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes, plus 1 hour's chilling time\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 24 oysters, serves 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 lb fresh Mexican-style chorizo sausage, removed from casing\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 oz) unsalted butter, softened\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp finely chopped parsley\u003cbr>\n24 oysters \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Soften butter at room temperature. Saute chorizo until thoroughly cooked, then crumble. Place in refrigerator to cool. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place butter in a small bowl and break up with a wooden spoon. Add cooled chorizo and mix thoroughly. Add parsley. Place the mixture in the middle of a sheet of waxed paper. Roll into a 2-inch wide log, twist ends shut, and chill in the refrigerator until firm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. While grill is heating, shuck oysters and leave in shells. When grill is hot, top each opened oyster with a thin slice of butter cut from roll. Cover and cook just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: If you don't have an outdoor grill, these oysters can also be cooked under the broiler. To broil, cover an ovenproof plate or platter with a layer of slightly moistened rock salt about 1 inch deep. Set oysters, in shells, on the rock salt, making sure they are level. Top each oyster with a thin slice of chorizo butter. Broil just until the butter starts to bubble. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Alice Waters Serves Lunch, Launches Levi's T-Shirts for Edible Education",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-levis-ediblesign-garlic560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-levis-ediblesign-garlic560.jpg\" alt=\"Alice Waters with Levi's Robert Hanson addressing crowd at event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Alice Waters with Levi's Robert Hanson addressing crowd at event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32171\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Alice Waters clutches garlic and talks up edible education while Levi's President and Chez Panisse fan Robert Hanson looks on.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All photos: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless you've been living in a cave the last week or two you likely know that a certain iconic restaurant in Berkeley is celebrating its 40th birthday this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iconic owner of iconic eatery has been here, there, and everywhere in the past week or two. SEO-friendly translation: \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> has chatted with former Chez chefs on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/18/forum-chez-panisse-turns-40/\">KQED's Forum\u003c/a>, dished on supping solo on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/22/139707078/alice-waters-40-years-of-sustainable-food\">Fresh Air with Terry Gross\u003c/a>, and got dirty with Hollywood heartthrob and \u003ca href=\"http://www.edibleschoolyard.org/#\">Edible Schoolyard\u003c/a> supporter Jake Gyllenhaal on the \u003ca href=\"http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/44240537#44240537\">Today Show\u003c/a>, where she was interviewed by Jenna Bush Hager — yes, \u003cem>that\u003c/em> Jenna Bush — at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/san-francisco\">The Edible Schoolyard at the San Francisco Boys and Girls Club in Hunters Point\u003c/a>, one of several affiliates to the original \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/edible-schoolyard\">Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's also been the subject of not \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/14/MNH21KBTVS.DTL\">one\u003c/a> but \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/19/FD1K1K6NDC.DTL\">two\u003c/a> lengthy retrospectives in the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> and graced the pages of \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/08/02/alice_waters_takes_over_august_glossies.php\">many glossies this month\u003c/a>, with more major print media to come this weekend when the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/40th\">Chez Panisse 40th birthday celebrations\u003c/a> kick off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, however, Waters took to the streets of San Francisco -- in Maiden Lane off Union Square no less -- to serve lunch, sell T-shirts, and sign books.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/school-lunch-box650.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/school-lunch-box650.jpg\" alt=\"Alice Waters School Lunch box. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Alice Waters School Lunch box. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the menu: School lunch, of course, or Waters' vision of what school lunch should be. The boxed lunches were a fundraiser for the newly named nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.edibleschoolyard.org/\">Edible Schoolyard Project\u003c/a>, a national organization designed to integrate garden and kitchen education into grade-school curriculum. Suggested donation: $5 a pop for a box and 400 lunches sold out within an hour or so. In the mix: Smoked pulled chicken baguette (featuring \u003ca href=\"http://soulfoodfarm.com/\">Soul Food Farm\u003c/a> chicken, \u003ca href=\"http://dirtygirlproduce.com/\">Dirty Girl Farm\u003c/a> shallot and Early Girl tomato, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.littlecitygardens.com/\">Little City Gardens\u003c/a> herbs and baby, frilly mustard greens) with harissa and aioli. The sandwich was accompanied by \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_la_tercera.html\">La Tercera\u003c/a> cucumber pickles and radish, along with \u003ca href=\"http://www.knollorganics.com/index.html\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> figs, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagierranches.com/-strse-template/about/Page.bok\">Lagier Ranches\u003c/a> Bronx grapes, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyquailfarms.com/\">Happy Quail Farms\u003c/a> peppers. For veggies: Pounded lemon thyme pistou with iacopi butter bean mash, Dirty Girl tomatoes, pickled vegetables, and aforementioned frilly mustard greens. And to wash all those organic veggies down, a refreshing drink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a> yellow doll watermelon with anise hyssop and lime juice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/meat-lunch560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/meat-lunch560.jpg\" alt=\"Meat lunch offering at Edible Schoolyard event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Meat lunch offering at Edible Schoolyard event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32183\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Got all that? There will be a quiz after lunch. Oh, and in case you were wondering, the Chez chefs were all too busy prepping for the weekend galas to whip up lunch today, which was outsourced to Nicole Lobue's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lobueevents.com/\">Lobue Events\u003c/a>, a high-end catering company, in close consultation with Waters, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters also teamed up with another local-gone-global icon, \u003ca href=\"http://us.levi.com/home/index.jsp\">Levi's\u003c/a>, to launch a \u003ca href=\"http://explore.levi.com/news/news/edible-schoolyard-collaboration/\">limited-edition t-shirt collection\u003c/a> (100 % organic cotton, natch) designed by Alice Waters (who 'fessed up to help from chef Sylvan Brackett on her tee) and four well-known creative types: musician \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidbyrne.com/\">David Byrne\u003c/a>, filmmaker \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofia_Coppola\">Sofia Coppola\u003c/a>, author \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/speakers/dave_eggers.html\">Dave Eggers\u003c/a> and illustrator \u003ca href=\"http://www.mairakalman.com/\">Maira Kalman\u003c/a>. Alas, none of the luminaries were on hand this afternoon to model the $30 shirts, proceeds from the sale also support the Edible Schoolyard Project. Beginning today, the shirts are available in select Levi’s stores and online at \u003ca href=\"http://us.levi.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=edible%20schoolyard&origkw=edible+schoolyard&sr=1\">levi.com\u003c/a>. At lunch some 40 or so Ts were snapped up, Kalman's pie print proving as popular as Waters' apple images.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/tshirts-pie560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/tshirts-pie560.jpg\" alt=\"Edible Schoolyard T-shirts. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Edible Schoolyard T-shirts. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32176\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters addressed the crowd and the media asking: \"What could be more universal than blue jeans and edible education?\" To which there were no snappy rejoinders, since this is Waters' moment in the sun. Levi's honcho Robert Hanson told a story about his then-very-pregnant girlfriend insisting the couple keep a date at Chez Panisse, some years ago. That night, she gave birth to a baby girl, who's been an organic vegetarian eater ever since. Cue awww now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was all very lovely: Wheelbarrows full of freshly harvested produce, including ground cherries, squash, and aromatic herbs from the ESY garden, along with cute little booths. The communal tables sported linen table cloths and posies of fresh flowers. Waters sang the praises of freshly picked garlic the way she has famously waxed about a perfect peach and stressed the importance of educating all the nation's children about good food and the pleasures of the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg\" alt=\"Alice Waters picking garlic from ESY wheelbarrow. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Alice Waters picking garlic from ESY wheelbarrow. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32169\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crowd was a mixed bag of die-hard Chez Panisse fans, supporters of Waters' school lunch and slow food agenda, self-described foodies -- and nearby workers who stumbled onto a good thing. Some in line said that the boxed lunch was the closest they'd ever get to Chez Panisse food, since the high-end restaurant is out of reach for many. Some had never heard of the Edible Schoolyard, offering proof that Waters' mission is far from over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/table-400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/table-400.jpg\" alt=\"Edible Schoolyard Lunch event attendees. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Edible Schoolyard Lunch event attendees. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" height=\"598\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The local food legend, who signed copies of her new book \u003ca href=\"http://www.randomhouse.com/book/202683/40-years-of-chez-panisse-the-power-of-gathering-by-alice-waters\">\u003cem>40 Years of Chez Panisse: The Power of Gathering\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, shook hands with lunch-goers waiting in line to eat and promised the mellow crowd of 500 or so that anyone who missed out on a meal was invited to come eat at Chez Panisse. No word on who would foot the bill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked if her offer was good, press rep David Prior, who was fairly confident that everyone who wanted a box lunch was accommodated, said: \"I wouldn't be surprised. There's nothing Alice likes less than running out of food. She's all about feeding people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Posts:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2011/08/27/chez-panisses-birthday-kicks-off-with-party-to-remember/\">Chez Panisse's birthday kicks off with party to remember\u003c/a> (Berkeleyside)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Alice Waters brought box lunches to Maiden Lane near Union Square today and launched her Levi's T-shirt line (100% organic cotton, of course) all to raise awareness and funds for her national nonprofit Edible Schoolyard Project.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-levis-ediblesign-garlic560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-levis-ediblesign-garlic560.jpg\" alt=\"Alice Waters with Levi's Robert Hanson addressing crowd at event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Alice Waters with Levi's Robert Hanson addressing crowd at event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32171\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Alice Waters clutches garlic and talks up edible education while Levi's President and Chez Panisse fan Robert Hanson looks on.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>All photos: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless you've been living in a cave the last week or two you likely know that a certain iconic restaurant in Berkeley is celebrating its 40th birthday this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Iconic owner of iconic eatery has been here, there, and everywhere in the past week or two. SEO-friendly translation: \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/about/alice-waters/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a> of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> has chatted with former Chez chefs on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/18/forum-chez-panisse-turns-40/\">KQED's Forum\u003c/a>, dished on supping solo on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/22/139707078/alice-waters-40-years-of-sustainable-food\">Fresh Air with Terry Gross\u003c/a>, and got dirty with Hollywood heartthrob and \u003ca href=\"http://www.edibleschoolyard.org/#\">Edible Schoolyard\u003c/a> supporter Jake Gyllenhaal on the \u003ca href=\"http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/44240537#44240537\">Today Show\u003c/a>, where she was interviewed by Jenna Bush Hager — yes, \u003cem>that\u003c/em> Jenna Bush — at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/san-francisco\">The Edible Schoolyard at the San Francisco Boys and Girls Club in Hunters Point\u003c/a>, one of several affiliates to the original \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/edible-schoolyard\">Edible Schoolyard in Berkeley\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's also been the subject of not \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/14/MNH21KBTVS.DTL\">one\u003c/a> but \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/08/19/FD1K1K6NDC.DTL\">two\u003c/a> lengthy retrospectives in the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> and graced the pages of \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2011/08/02/alice_waters_takes_over_august_glossies.php\">many glossies this month\u003c/a>, with more major print media to come this weekend when the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanissefoundation.org/40th\">Chez Panisse 40th birthday celebrations\u003c/a> kick off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, however, Waters took to the streets of San Francisco -- in Maiden Lane off Union Square no less -- to serve lunch, sell T-shirts, and sign books.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/school-lunch-box650.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/school-lunch-box650.jpg\" alt=\"Alice Waters School Lunch box. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Alice Waters School Lunch box. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the menu: School lunch, of course, or Waters' vision of what school lunch should be. The boxed lunches were a fundraiser for the newly named nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://www.edibleschoolyard.org/\">Edible Schoolyard Project\u003c/a>, a national organization designed to integrate garden and kitchen education into grade-school curriculum. Suggested donation: $5 a pop for a box and 400 lunches sold out within an hour or so. In the mix: Smoked pulled chicken baguette (featuring \u003ca href=\"http://soulfoodfarm.com/\">Soul Food Farm\u003c/a> chicken, \u003ca href=\"http://dirtygirlproduce.com/\">Dirty Girl Farm\u003c/a> shallot and Early Girl tomato, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.littlecitygardens.com/\">Little City Gardens\u003c/a> herbs and baby, frilly mustard greens) with harissa and aioli. The sandwich was accompanied by \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_la_tercera.html\">La Tercera\u003c/a> cucumber pickles and radish, along with \u003ca href=\"http://www.knollorganics.com/index.html\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> figs, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagierranches.com/-strse-template/about/Page.bok\">Lagier Ranches\u003c/a> Bronx grapes, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyquailfarms.com/\">Happy Quail Farms\u003c/a> peppers. For veggies: Pounded lemon thyme pistou with iacopi butter bean mash, Dirty Girl tomatoes, pickled vegetables, and aforementioned frilly mustard greens. And to wash all those organic veggies down, a refreshing drink of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fullbellyfarm.com/\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a> yellow doll watermelon with anise hyssop and lime juice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/meat-lunch560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/meat-lunch560.jpg\" alt=\"Meat lunch offering at Edible Schoolyard event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Meat lunch offering at Edible Schoolyard event. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32183\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Got all that? There will be a quiz after lunch. Oh, and in case you were wondering, the Chez chefs were all too busy prepping for the weekend galas to whip up lunch today, which was outsourced to Nicole Lobue's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lobueevents.com/\">Lobue Events\u003c/a>, a high-end catering company, in close consultation with Waters, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters also teamed up with another local-gone-global icon, \u003ca href=\"http://us.levi.com/home/index.jsp\">Levi's\u003c/a>, to launch a \u003ca href=\"http://explore.levi.com/news/news/edible-schoolyard-collaboration/\">limited-edition t-shirt collection\u003c/a> (100 % organic cotton, natch) designed by Alice Waters (who 'fessed up to help from chef Sylvan Brackett on her tee) and four well-known creative types: musician \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidbyrne.com/\">David Byrne\u003c/a>, filmmaker \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sofia_Coppola\">Sofia Coppola\u003c/a>, author \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/speakers/dave_eggers.html\">Dave Eggers\u003c/a> and illustrator \u003ca href=\"http://www.mairakalman.com/\">Maira Kalman\u003c/a>. Alas, none of the luminaries were on hand this afternoon to model the $30 shirts, proceeds from the sale also support the Edible Schoolyard Project. Beginning today, the shirts are available in select Levi’s stores and online at \u003ca href=\"http://us.levi.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=edible%20schoolyard&origkw=edible+schoolyard&sr=1\">levi.com\u003c/a>. At lunch some 40 or so Ts were snapped up, Kalman's pie print proving as popular as Waters' apple images.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/tshirts-pie560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/tshirts-pie560.jpg\" alt=\"Edible Schoolyard T-shirts. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Edible Schoolyard T-shirts. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32176\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Waters addressed the crowd and the media asking: \"What could be more universal than blue jeans and edible education?\" To which there were no snappy rejoinders, since this is Waters' moment in the sun. Levi's honcho Robert Hanson told a story about his then-very-pregnant girlfriend insisting the couple keep a date at Chez Panisse, some years ago. That night, she gave birth to a baby girl, who's been an organic vegetarian eater ever since. Cue awww now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was all very lovely: Wheelbarrows full of freshly harvested produce, including ground cherries, squash, and aromatic herbs from the ESY garden, along with cute little booths. The communal tables sported linen table cloths and posies of fresh flowers. Waters sang the praises of freshly picked garlic the way she has famously waxed about a perfect peach and stressed the importance of educating all the nation's children about good food and the pleasures of the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/alice-wheelbarrow560.jpg\" alt=\"Alice Waters picking garlic from ESY wheelbarrow. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Alice Waters picking garlic from ESY wheelbarrow. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32169\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crowd was a mixed bag of die-hard Chez Panisse fans, supporters of Waters' school lunch and slow food agenda, self-described foodies -- and nearby workers who stumbled onto a good thing. Some in line said that the boxed lunch was the closest they'd ever get to Chez Panisse food, since the high-end restaurant is out of reach for many. Some had never heard of the Edible Schoolyard, offering proof that Waters' mission is far from over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/table-400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/table-400.jpg\" alt=\"Edible Schoolyard Lunch event attendees. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Edible Schoolyard Lunch event attendees. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"400\" height=\"598\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The local food legend, who signed copies of her new book \u003ca href=\"http://www.randomhouse.com/book/202683/40-years-of-chez-panisse-the-power-of-gathering-by-alice-waters\">\u003cem>40 Years of Chez Panisse: The Power of Gathering\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, shook hands with lunch-goers waiting in line to eat and promised the mellow crowd of 500 or so that anyone who missed out on a meal was invited to come eat at Chez Panisse. No word on who would foot the bill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked if her offer was good, press rep David Prior, who was fairly confident that everyone who wanted a box lunch was accommodated, said: \"I wouldn't be surprised. There's nothing Alice likes less than running out of food. She's all about feeding people.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Posts:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2011/08/27/chez-panisses-birthday-kicks-off-with-party-to-remember/\">Chez Panisse's birthday kicks off with party to remember\u003c/a> (Berkeleyside)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Recharge Your Culinary Repertoire With Curated Recipe Websites",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/punchfork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/punchfork.jpg\" alt=\"punchfork\" title=\"punchfork\" width=\"538\" height=\"425\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31369\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it's time to make a meal, and you're bored with making the same old dishes. It's time to recharge your repertoire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the day before the dawn of the online era, you'd just snag a new family recipe from a relative with some culinary chops, or tune into the wisdom of \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>. But the mega-popularity of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/\">The Food Network\u003c/a> has since ignited an unrelenting avalanche of food-related media, and now you can find endless numbers of resources on \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooking_show\">television\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/subjects/r/recipes/index.html\">newspapers\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Popular-Cookbooks/lm/R25N6PSSIRRPGT\">cookbooks\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/20/so-you-want-to-be-a-successful-food-blogger-heres-how/\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/boards\">discussion forums,\u003c/a> and even \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com/2008/08/13/iphone-food-apps/\">smart phone apps\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where to go in the midst of this media overload? There are some excellent new sites that offer a curated collection of recipes that will help you sift through the onslaught of available resources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're a fan of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_porn\">food porn\u003c/a>, the following two sites will catch your fancy. \u003ca href=\"http://punchfork.com/\">Punchfork\u003c/a> aggregates recipes from a \u003ca href=\"http://punchfork.com/publishers\">number of popular food websites\u003c/a> that rank highly in the social media sphere. According to their website, \"Punchfork uses real-time data like tweets and Facebook shares to measure which recipes are grabbing the attention of users. We uncover the latent sentiment in sharing patterns on social networks.\" You can see which recipes have top-ratings with the foodie crowd, what's new, and of course, what's trending. Each recipe is easily sharable with folks on your own social networks, too. Learn more about this innovative new site in this interview with \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandtechconnect.com/site/2011/07/28/punchforks-innovative-web-search-business-model-using-social-data-to-personalize-recipe-search/\">Punchfork's founder, Jeff Miller\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.gojee.com/\">Gojee\u003c/a>. Be sure to click on this site after you've had a snack, because the glossy photography will make your stomach instantly growl with hunger. You have to register to view the recipes, and then you're greeted with a stunning portrait of a dish that you'll want to make right away -- like Penne with Corn & Brown Butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/penne.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/penne.jpg\" alt=\"penne\" title=\"penne\" width=\"518\" height=\"382\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31373\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The user interface is quite personable, allowing users to search by ingredient for what you \"crave,\" what you \"have\" in your pantry, and what you \"dislike.\" And when you type in search terms, witty messages such as \"Almond joying myself, are you?\" pop up as you wait for the recipe to pop up. And they bring careful attention to their curatorial process, as mentioned in this \u003ca href=\"http://www.forbes.com/sites/daniellegould/2011/07/13/building-a-data-driven-startup-lessons-from-fast-growing-gojee/\">Forbes.com article\u003c/a>: \"You could call us a high quality, hand curated, easy to use Google for food blogger recipes. Every recipe on our site is manually chosen by our team,\" says founder Mike Lavalle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's \u003ca href=\"http://foodpress.com/\">Foodpress\u003c/a>, which has a roster of featured food bloggers that contribute recipes. You can click on popular keywords that are listed in a handy sidebar, or check out sections such as, \"\u003ca href=\"http://foodpress.com/specials/\">Today's Specials\u003c/a>\" and \"\u003ca href=\"http://foodpress.com/features/\">Featured Posts\u003c/a>.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you'd like to dive into the online juggernaut, there are comprehensive sites such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.yummly.com/\">Yummly\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/landing/recipes/\">Google Recipe View\u003c/a> (and if you're using their new \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/04/cooking-lessons-in-real-time-google-cooking-school/\">Google+ social network\u003c/a>, their \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/support/+/bin/static.py?hl=en&page=guide.cs&guide=1289752&rd=1\">Sparks\u003c/a>\" feature includes recipes. However, you'll see it filters through articles as well as plain recipes when you scroll through.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And of course, don't forget to check our Bay Area Bites's extensive archive of great \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/recipes/\">recipes\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/punchfork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/punchfork.jpg\" alt=\"punchfork\" title=\"punchfork\" width=\"538\" height=\"425\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31369\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So it's time to make a meal, and you're bored with making the same old dishes. It's time to recharge your repertoire. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the day before the dawn of the online era, you'd just snag a new family recipe from a relative with some culinary chops, or tune into the wisdom of \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>. But the mega-popularity of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/\">The Food Network\u003c/a> has since ignited an unrelenting avalanche of food-related media, and now you can find endless numbers of resources on \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooking_show\">television\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/subjects/r/recipes/index.html\">newspapers\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Popular-Cookbooks/lm/R25N6PSSIRRPGT\">cookbooks\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/20/so-you-want-to-be-a-successful-food-blogger-heres-how/\">blogs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://chowhound.chow.com/boards\">discussion forums,\u003c/a> and even \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com/2008/08/13/iphone-food-apps/\">smart phone apps\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So where to go in the midst of this media overload? There are some excellent new sites that offer a curated collection of recipes that will help you sift through the onslaught of available resources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're a fan of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_porn\">food porn\u003c/a>, the following two sites will catch your fancy. \u003ca href=\"http://punchfork.com/\">Punchfork\u003c/a> aggregates recipes from a \u003ca href=\"http://punchfork.com/publishers\">number of popular food websites\u003c/a> that rank highly in the social media sphere. According to their website, \"Punchfork uses real-time data like tweets and Facebook shares to measure which recipes are grabbing the attention of users. We uncover the latent sentiment in sharing patterns on social networks.\" You can see which recipes have top-ratings with the foodie crowd, what's new, and of course, what's trending. Each recipe is easily sharable with folks on your own social networks, too. Learn more about this innovative new site in this interview with \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandtechconnect.com/site/2011/07/28/punchforks-innovative-web-search-business-model-using-social-data-to-personalize-recipe-search/\">Punchfork's founder, Jeff Miller\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.gojee.com/\">Gojee\u003c/a>. Be sure to click on this site after you've had a snack, because the glossy photography will make your stomach instantly growl with hunger. You have to register to view the recipes, and then you're greeted with a stunning portrait of a dish that you'll want to make right away -- like Penne with Corn & Brown Butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/penne.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/penne.jpg\" alt=\"penne\" title=\"penne\" width=\"518\" height=\"382\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31373\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The user interface is quite personable, allowing users to search by ingredient for what you \"crave,\" what you \"have\" in your pantry, and what you \"dislike.\" And when you type in search terms, witty messages such as \"Almond joying myself, are you?\" pop up as you wait for the recipe to pop up. And they bring careful attention to their curatorial process, as mentioned in this \u003ca href=\"http://www.forbes.com/sites/daniellegould/2011/07/13/building-a-data-driven-startup-lessons-from-fast-growing-gojee/\">Forbes.com article\u003c/a>: \"You could call us a high quality, hand curated, easy to use Google for food blogger recipes. Every recipe on our site is manually chosen by our team,\" says founder Mike Lavalle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's \u003ca href=\"http://foodpress.com/\">Foodpress\u003c/a>, which has a roster of featured food bloggers that contribute recipes. You can click on popular keywords that are listed in a handy sidebar, or check out sections such as, \"\u003ca href=\"http://foodpress.com/specials/\">Today's Specials\u003c/a>\" and \"\u003ca href=\"http://foodpress.com/features/\">Featured Posts\u003c/a>.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you'd like to dive into the online juggernaut, there are comprehensive sites such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.yummly.com/\">Yummly\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/landing/recipes/\">Google Recipe View\u003c/a> (and if you're using their new \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/04/cooking-lessons-in-real-time-google-cooking-school/\">Google+ social network\u003c/a>, their \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/support/+/bin/static.py?hl=en&page=guide.cs&guide=1289752&rd=1\">Sparks\u003c/a>\" feature includes recipes. However, you'll see it filters through articles as well as plain recipes when you scroll through.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And of course, don't forget to check our Bay Area Bites's extensive archive of great \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/recipes/\">recipes\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Review: The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307716627/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/Butchers-Guide-cover300.jpg\" alt=\"The Butchers Guide to Well-Raised Meat\" title=\"The Butchers Guide to Well-Raised Meat\" width=\"300\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-31324\">\u003c/a>Jessica and Joshua Applestone's story is, by now, a familiar one. Vegetarian/vegan couple gets interested in sustainability, organics, and the implications of ethical eating. They start reading and going to farms and farmers' markets, realize that the staff (and signage) at most big food retailers--even the ones that tout their eco-friendliness--are uninformed and unreliable. Who to believe? How to make a difference? What to make for dinner? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where the Applestones' story veers off from the typical hipster vegan-turned-ethical omnivore trajectory. They didn't just find a meat CSA and fill their freezer with grass-fed hangar steak and pork belly destined for homemade ramen or home-cured bacon. That's what might happen now, in 2011, here in San Francisco. But this was 2004, only a couple of years after Eric Schlosser's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0395977894/kqedorg-20\">Fast Food Nation\u003c/a> had been published. Michael Pollan's \u003cem>New York Times Magazine\u003c/em> article, \u003ca href=\"http://michaelpollan.com/articles-archive/power-steer/\">Power Steer\u003c/a>, which followed the short, unhappy life of one young, burger-destined steer in a Kansas feedlot, had just made millions of beef-eating Americans realize that most of the corn- and soy-stuffed animals they were buying had never come near a blade of grass. Grass-fed meat, what little there was of it, was hard to find, and usually available only shipped frozen from the Midwest. So what did they do? They started a butcher shop in New York's Hudson Valley selling only pasture-raised meats, a butcher shop that bought only whole animals from small farmers and ranchers they knew. Joshua, still vegan at the time they started the business, learned the butchery side, a trade plied by both his grandfather and great-grandfather. They called the shop \u003ca href=\"http://www.fleishers.com\">Fleisher's Grass-Fed Organic Meats\u003c/a>, from Joshua's family name. They got advice from dozens of retired butchers, almost all of whom told them that they were crazy, that they'd be out of business and worse, divorced, in a matter of months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, some 7 years later, their business (and their marriage) is not just intact, but thriving. This fall, they're opening their second shop, in Brooklyn's Park Slope neighborhood, with a third one planned for the Upper West Side. (Take that, Zabar's!) The food culture has caught up with them, and \"grass-fed\" and \"pasture-raised\" have entered the common dialogue of more than just a few provenance-obsessed food folks. This week, Joshua and Jessica made the trek West for a series of events promoting their new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307716627/kqedorg-20\">The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat: How to Buy, Cut, and Cook Great Beef, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, and More\u003c/a>. I caught up with them at an after-party at Bernal Heights butcher shop \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com\">Avedano's\u003c/a>, following their book-signing at nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and their on-air appearance on KQED's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">Forum\u003c/a> with Avedano's butcher and co-owner Tia Harrison. (Harrison is also the chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffesociale.com\">Sociale\u003c/a> and a co-founder of the \u003ca href=\"http://thebutchersguild.org\">Butchers' Guild\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like a lot of New Yorkers, Jessica has a San Francisco connection; while she was raised in Long Island, her father grew up here, and she lived in the city from 1989-1991, working at the San Francisco Bay Guardian and Mercury Press before moving to Tokyo and New York City. \"I miss the real foodie culture here, the diversity of ethnicities. And the Mexican food!\" she said as we stood near a candlelit platter of ham. She and her husband have dubbed Kingston, NY, where they have their shop, \"Park Slope North\" for the number of Brooklynites from that Berkeley-ish neighborhood who spend their weekends up in their locale. Woodstock (yes, \u003cem>that\u003c/em> Woodstock) is close by, as is New Paltz, a busy college town whose young mayor made headlines in 2004 for issuing marriage licenses and performing civic weddings for 25 same-sex couples, six years before gay marriage was legalized in New York. Without customers from these bourgeois-bohemian enclaves, she admits, much of their painstakingly sourced, meticulously cut meat wouldn't get bought, week after week. Although their learning curve was steep (says Jessica, \"We didn't have a learning curve; it just went straight up from the minute we started\"), their butcher shop has become, amazingly, something almost exactly what they envisioned: a source not just of meat but of community, a place where the butchers know their customers by name, and where people chat and ask questions, take classes, share recipes and swap neighborhood gossip, and in the process, use their food dollars to support a whole network of local farmers, ranchers, slaughterhouses, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their book is an unintimidating, user-friendly guide for the home cook, one who's curious about this whole whole-beast thing but doesn't yet have the chops, or the knowledge, to get busy with a boning knife. It's a primer on primals, the \"big cuts\" that well-trained butchers break down into the more familiar chops, ribs, sirloins and roasts. This is no encyclopedia of meats; the type is big, there are lots of chatty sidebars and plenty of weekday-dinner recipes. Even if you never follow their instructions for butterflying a leg of lamb or frenching a crown roast, you can still learn a lot of useful basics to make you feel much more at home in front of a meat case. Particularly useful are the pages championing their favorite lesser-known butcher's cuts, like lamb sirloin (one of my favorites, and frequently on hand at Avedano's), the cuts that a butcher knows but rarely sells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/fleishers500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/fleishers500.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica and Joshua Applestone. Photo by Jessica May\" title=\"Jessica and Joshua Applestone. Photo by Jessica May\" width=\"500\" height=\"537\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31326\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica and Joshua Applestone. Photo by Jennifer May\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Joshua cuts the meat, Jessica talks to the customers, explaining everything from how grass-fed meat is a seasonal product to the best way to cook bacon (the details are in the book, but suffice it to say that you're probably doing it wrong. Low and slow, that's the ticket). You've probably seen the dotted-line cow or pig in a dozen cookbooks, segmented and labeled to show where the shank, loin, chuck roast or top round come from. Jessica discovered a faster way to teach customers why some cuts are tender, others tough: the dotted-line human. Just imagine yourself down on all fours, and you can feel where your tougher, working muscles are (like the shoulders, neck, and legs) and what's placid and fatty, like the belly, the back and the meat around the ribs. \"I fought hard to get the human in the book!\" she laughs, and while it's off-putting at first sight, it does the job. You're not likely to forget where a tenderloin comes from once you've seen it labeled right over a navel like your own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hard-core wanna-be butchers may find the book a little too basic for their cleaver-and-chain-mail tastes. For them, there's Ryan Farr's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452100594/kqedorg-20\">Whole Beast Butchery\u003c/a> slated for publication later this fall. Farr, a butcher's butcher who started \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>, the man who made putting (artisanal) chicharrones on a (handmade) hot dog seem like the ultimate in porky deliciousness, will be offering more step-by-step photographs and specialized instruction, with no stinting on the tongues, ears, and brains. But as an introduction to being a thoughtful carnivore in the kitchen, \u003cem>The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat \u003c/em>makes a fine argument for knowing your meats and knowing your butcher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Joshua and Jessica Applestone will be participating in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochon555.com/menu/2011-tour-dates/cochon-heritage-fire/\">Cochon 555's Heritage Fire\u003c/a> event at Charles Krug Winery in Napa on Saturday, Aug 13. Tickets $100-$200. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A vegetarian and a vegan open a butcher shop...Stephanie Rosenbaum catches up with Joshua and Jessica Applestone, owners of Fleisher's Grass-Fed Organic Meats and authors of The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307716627/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/Butchers-Guide-cover300.jpg\" alt=\"The Butchers Guide to Well-Raised Meat\" title=\"The Butchers Guide to Well-Raised Meat\" width=\"300\" height=\"369\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-31324\">\u003c/a>Jessica and Joshua Applestone's story is, by now, a familiar one. Vegetarian/vegan couple gets interested in sustainability, organics, and the implications of ethical eating. They start reading and going to farms and farmers' markets, realize that the staff (and signage) at most big food retailers--even the ones that tout their eco-friendliness--are uninformed and unreliable. Who to believe? How to make a difference? What to make for dinner? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is where the Applestones' story veers off from the typical hipster vegan-turned-ethical omnivore trajectory. They didn't just find a meat CSA and fill their freezer with grass-fed hangar steak and pork belly destined for homemade ramen or home-cured bacon. That's what might happen now, in 2011, here in San Francisco. But this was 2004, only a couple of years after Eric Schlosser's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0395977894/kqedorg-20\">Fast Food Nation\u003c/a> had been published. Michael Pollan's \u003cem>New York Times Magazine\u003c/em> article, \u003ca href=\"http://michaelpollan.com/articles-archive/power-steer/\">Power Steer\u003c/a>, which followed the short, unhappy life of one young, burger-destined steer in a Kansas feedlot, had just made millions of beef-eating Americans realize that most of the corn- and soy-stuffed animals they were buying had never come near a blade of grass. Grass-fed meat, what little there was of it, was hard to find, and usually available only shipped frozen from the Midwest. So what did they do? They started a butcher shop in New York's Hudson Valley selling only pasture-raised meats, a butcher shop that bought only whole animals from small farmers and ranchers they knew. Joshua, still vegan at the time they started the business, learned the butchery side, a trade plied by both his grandfather and great-grandfather. They called the shop \u003ca href=\"http://www.fleishers.com\">Fleisher's Grass-Fed Organic Meats\u003c/a>, from Joshua's family name. They got advice from dozens of retired butchers, almost all of whom told them that they were crazy, that they'd be out of business and worse, divorced, in a matter of months. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, some 7 years later, their business (and their marriage) is not just intact, but thriving. This fall, they're opening their second shop, in Brooklyn's Park Slope neighborhood, with a third one planned for the Upper West Side. (Take that, Zabar's!) The food culture has caught up with them, and \"grass-fed\" and \"pasture-raised\" have entered the common dialogue of more than just a few provenance-obsessed food folks. This week, Joshua and Jessica made the trek West for a series of events promoting their new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0307716627/kqedorg-20\">The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat: How to Buy, Cut, and Cook Great Beef, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, and More\u003c/a>. I caught up with them at an after-party at Bernal Heights butcher shop \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com\">Avedano's\u003c/a>, following their book-signing at nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and their on-air appearance on KQED's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">Forum\u003c/a> with Avedano's butcher and co-owner Tia Harrison. (Harrison is also the chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffesociale.com\">Sociale\u003c/a> and a co-founder of the \u003ca href=\"http://thebutchersguild.org\">Butchers' Guild\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like a lot of New Yorkers, Jessica has a San Francisco connection; while she was raised in Long Island, her father grew up here, and she lived in the city from 1989-1991, working at the San Francisco Bay Guardian and Mercury Press before moving to Tokyo and New York City. \"I miss the real foodie culture here, the diversity of ethnicities. And the Mexican food!\" she said as we stood near a candlelit platter of ham. She and her husband have dubbed Kingston, NY, where they have their shop, \"Park Slope North\" for the number of Brooklynites from that Berkeley-ish neighborhood who spend their weekends up in their locale. Woodstock (yes, \u003cem>that\u003c/em> Woodstock) is close by, as is New Paltz, a busy college town whose young mayor made headlines in 2004 for issuing marriage licenses and performing civic weddings for 25 same-sex couples, six years before gay marriage was legalized in New York. Without customers from these bourgeois-bohemian enclaves, she admits, much of their painstakingly sourced, meticulously cut meat wouldn't get bought, week after week. Although their learning curve was steep (says Jessica, \"We didn't have a learning curve; it just went straight up from the minute we started\"), their butcher shop has become, amazingly, something almost exactly what they envisioned: a source not just of meat but of community, a place where the butchers know their customers by name, and where people chat and ask questions, take classes, share recipes and swap neighborhood gossip, and in the process, use their food dollars to support a whole network of local farmers, ranchers, slaughterhouses, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their book is an unintimidating, user-friendly guide for the home cook, one who's curious about this whole whole-beast thing but doesn't yet have the chops, or the knowledge, to get busy with a boning knife. It's a primer on primals, the \"big cuts\" that well-trained butchers break down into the more familiar chops, ribs, sirloins and roasts. This is no encyclopedia of meats; the type is big, there are lots of chatty sidebars and plenty of weekday-dinner recipes. Even if you never follow their instructions for butterflying a leg of lamb or frenching a crown roast, you can still learn a lot of useful basics to make you feel much more at home in front of a meat case. Particularly useful are the pages championing their favorite lesser-known butcher's cuts, like lamb sirloin (one of my favorites, and frequently on hand at Avedano's), the cuts that a butcher knows but rarely sells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/fleishers500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/fleishers500.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica and Joshua Applestone. Photo by Jessica May\" title=\"Jessica and Joshua Applestone. Photo by Jessica May\" width=\"500\" height=\"537\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-31326\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica and Joshua Applestone. Photo by Jennifer May\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Joshua cuts the meat, Jessica talks to the customers, explaining everything from how grass-fed meat is a seasonal product to the best way to cook bacon (the details are in the book, but suffice it to say that you're probably doing it wrong. Low and slow, that's the ticket). You've probably seen the dotted-line cow or pig in a dozen cookbooks, segmented and labeled to show where the shank, loin, chuck roast or top round come from. Jessica discovered a faster way to teach customers why some cuts are tender, others tough: the dotted-line human. Just imagine yourself down on all fours, and you can feel where your tougher, working muscles are (like the shoulders, neck, and legs) and what's placid and fatty, like the belly, the back and the meat around the ribs. \"I fought hard to get the human in the book!\" she laughs, and while it's off-putting at first sight, it does the job. You're not likely to forget where a tenderloin comes from once you've seen it labeled right over a navel like your own. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hard-core wanna-be butchers may find the book a little too basic for their cleaver-and-chain-mail tastes. For them, there's Ryan Farr's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452100594/kqedorg-20\">Whole Beast Butchery\u003c/a> slated for publication later this fall. Farr, a butcher's butcher who started \u003ca href=\"http://www.4505meats.com\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>, the man who made putting (artisanal) chicharrones on a (handmade) hot dog seem like the ultimate in porky deliciousness, will be offering more step-by-step photographs and specialized instruction, with no stinting on the tongues, ears, and brains. But as an introduction to being a thoughtful carnivore in the kitchen, \u003cem>The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat \u003c/em>makes a fine argument for knowing your meats and knowing your butcher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Joshua and Jessica Applestone will be participating in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cochon555.com/menu/2011-tour-dates/cochon-heritage-fire/\">Cochon 555's Heritage Fire\u003c/a> event at Charles Krug Winery in Napa on Saturday, Aug 13. Tickets $100-$200. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "KQED's Forum: Sustainable Meat and the Art of Butchery",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/meat.jpg\" alt=\"random cuts of meat. Photo - Getty Images\" title=\"random cuts of meat. Photo - Getty Images\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-31251\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Sustainable Meat and the Art of Butchery\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn recent years, more chefs and consumers are demanding local, sustainable meats, driving some to raise and butcher their own livestock. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">KQED's Forum\u003c/a> gets into the gristle with three butchers and talk all about meat, from what consumers should be asking at the counter to how to cook a whole pig in the backyard.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Wed, Aug 10, 2011 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201108101000.xml\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201108101000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Sydnie Kohara\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Jessica Applestone, co-author of \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Butchers-Guide-Well-Raised-Meat-Great-Poultry/dp/0307716627\">The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat\u003c/a>\" and co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fleishers.com/\">Fleisher's Grass-fed & Organic Meats\u003c/a> in New York\u003c/li>\n\u003cli> Joshua Applestone, co-author of \"The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat\" and co-owner of Fleisher's Grass-fed & Organic Meats in New York\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Tia Harrison, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com/\">Avendano's Holly Park Market\u003c/a>, executive chef and co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffesociale.com/\">Sociale\u003c/a> restaurant and co-founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebutchersguild.org/\">The Butcher's Guild\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Articles:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2011/08/04/a-tell-all-guide-to-artisanal-butchery/\">A Tell-All Guide to Artisanal Butchery\u003c/a> By Adriana Velez (Civil Eats)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/08/former_vegan_and_vegetarians_n.php\">Events: Former Vegan and Vegetarian Write the Book on Sustainable Meat\u003c/a> By Mollie McWilliams (SFoodie)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/meat.jpg\" alt=\"random cuts of meat. Photo - Getty Images\" title=\"random cuts of meat. Photo - Getty Images\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-31251\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Sustainable Meat and the Art of Butchery\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn recent years, more chefs and consumers are demanding local, sustainable meats, driving some to raise and butcher their own livestock. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">KQED's Forum\u003c/a> gets into the gristle with three butchers and talk all about meat, from what consumers should be asking at the counter to how to cook a whole pig in the backyard.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/a/forum/R201108101000\">Original Broadcast:\u003c/a> Wed, Aug 10, 2011 -- 10:00 AM\u003cbr>\n\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201108101000.xml\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R201108101000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Sydnie Kohara\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Guests:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Jessica Applestone, co-author of \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Butchers-Guide-Well-Raised-Meat-Great-Poultry/dp/0307716627\">The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat\u003c/a>\" and co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fleishers.com/\">Fleisher's Grass-fed & Organic Meats\u003c/a> in New York\u003c/li>\n\u003cli> Joshua Applestone, co-author of \"The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat\" and co-owner of Fleisher's Grass-fed & Organic Meats in New York\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Tia Harrison, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com/\">Avendano's Holly Park Market\u003c/a>, executive chef and co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.caffesociale.com/\">Sociale\u003c/a> restaurant and co-founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebutchersguild.org/\">The Butcher's Guild\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Articles:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2011/08/04/a-tell-all-guide-to-artisanal-butchery/\">A Tell-All Guide to Artisanal Butchery\u003c/a> By Adriana Velez (Civil Eats)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/08/former_vegan_and_vegetarians_n.php\">Events: Former Vegan and Vegetarian Write the Book on Sustainable Meat\u003c/a> By Mollie McWilliams (SFoodie)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Mission Street Food Cookbook Launch Party",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/chicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/chicken.jpg\" alt=\"chicken\" title=\"chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30882\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A big crowd gathered last night at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.makeoutroom.com/\">Make-Out Room\u003c/a> to celebrate \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionchinesefood.com/\">Mission Street Food's\u003c/a> forthcoming cookbook, \"\u003cem>Mission Street Food: Recipes and Ideas From An Improbable Restaurant\u003c/em>,\" published by \u003ca href=\"http://www.publishersweekly.com/pw/by-topic/book-news/cooking/article/46016-mcsweeney-s-launches-cookbook-imprint.html\">McSweeney's new cookbook imprint\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2F&set_id=72157627167434793&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2F&set_id=72157627167434793&jump_to=\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, the cookbooks were tied up at customs and so no copies were to be had for the foodie groupies. But there was music, free beer, a short and funny presentation given by MSF duo Anthony Myint and Karen Leibowitz and Popeye's fried chicken -- lots of it. Apparently this chicken holds a soft spot in their hearts, especially Anthony's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"314\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/cqxXiqsnIcM\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anthony and Karen also took time out of their busy schedules to answer a few questions via email about their new project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1) You've had quite a journey in the past 3 years, from street food vendor, to Mission Burger, Commonwealth, Mission Chinese Food and now you're launching a cookbook. What was your initial inspiration for the cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our editor, Chris Ying, suggested we write about Mission Street Food, because he was starting McSweeney’s food imprint. We hadn’t been planning to write a book—as you mention, the last few years have been a bit of a whirlwind for us—but actually, the process of writing has helped us make sense of everything that’s happened. The story of MSF’s evolution takes about as much space in our book as the recipes, because we wanted to show how the food came out of our peculiar circumstances as an ever-changing pop-up restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2) There are loads of Chinese cookbooks out there. What will folks come away with from the Mission Chinese Street Food's book that's unique?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this book, we really focused on recipes from the Mission Street Food era, rather than Mission Chinese Food. The book’s cover is modeled on a classic American-Chinese restaurant placemat, because we wanted to reflect the way that MSF was contained within Lung Shan, though our food was inspired by culinary traditions from around the world. The recipes in our book reflect that international approach to cooking, so you’ll find our version of Peking Duck juxtaposed with our version of a Nordic dessert, and we happily admit that neither is “authentic.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3) How would you compare the collaborative cookbook writing process to your food ventures? Was it harder, easier, and/or gratifying in other ways? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing the book was probably a little bit easier than starting Mission Street Food, because the hours were more flexible. We worked very closely on the book, and literally passed the laptop back and forth between us as we talked. Working in a restaurant can be so ephemeral—if the food is good, then it disappears—so it’s nice to have something so solid that we can point to, and say “We made this!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4) What's up next for Mission Chinese Food? Any plans to expand? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hard to say. We’re definitely bursting the seams of our current arrangement, but our priority has always been to make food that’s really personal, so we don’t have any plans to expand right now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5) The book party for your cookbook served up Popeye's fried chicken. What's the connection to Mission Street Food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, there’s no connection between Popeye’s and Mission Street Food, but we do discuss how Popeye’s deserves culinary respect for their combination of deliciousness and low price—part of a general open-mindedness towards various foods.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/chicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/chicken.jpg\" alt=\"chicken\" title=\"chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30882\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A big crowd gathered last night at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.makeoutroom.com/\">Make-Out Room\u003c/a> to celebrate \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionchinesefood.com/\">Mission Street Food's\u003c/a> forthcoming cookbook, \"\u003cem>Mission Street Food: Recipes and Ideas From An Improbable Restaurant\u003c/em>,\" published by \u003ca href=\"http://www.publishersweekly.com/pw/by-topic/book-news/cooking/article/46016-mcsweeney-s-launches-cookbook-imprint.html\">McSweeney's new cookbook imprint\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2F&set_id=72157627167434793&jump_to=\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cembed type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" src=\"http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=104087\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" flashvars=\"offsite=true&lang=en-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2Fbayareabites%2Fsets%2F72157627167434793%2F&set_id=72157627167434793&jump_to=\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, the cookbooks were tied up at customs and so no copies were to be had for the foodie groupies. But there was music, free beer, a short and funny presentation given by MSF duo Anthony Myint and Karen Leibowitz and Popeye's fried chicken -- lots of it. Apparently this chicken holds a soft spot in their hearts, especially Anthony's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"500\" height=\"314\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/cqxXiqsnIcM\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anthony and Karen also took time out of their busy schedules to answer a few questions via email about their new project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1) You've had quite a journey in the past 3 years, from street food vendor, to Mission Burger, Commonwealth, Mission Chinese Food and now you're launching a cookbook. What was your initial inspiration for the cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our editor, Chris Ying, suggested we write about Mission Street Food, because he was starting McSweeney’s food imprint. We hadn’t been planning to write a book—as you mention, the last few years have been a bit of a whirlwind for us—but actually, the process of writing has helped us make sense of everything that’s happened. The story of MSF’s evolution takes about as much space in our book as the recipes, because we wanted to show how the food came out of our peculiar circumstances as an ever-changing pop-up restaurant. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2) There are loads of Chinese cookbooks out there. What will folks come away with from the Mission Chinese Street Food's book that's unique?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this book, we really focused on recipes from the Mission Street Food era, rather than Mission Chinese Food. The book’s cover is modeled on a classic American-Chinese restaurant placemat, because we wanted to reflect the way that MSF was contained within Lung Shan, though our food was inspired by culinary traditions from around the world. The recipes in our book reflect that international approach to cooking, so you’ll find our version of Peking Duck juxtaposed with our version of a Nordic dessert, and we happily admit that neither is “authentic.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3) How would you compare the collaborative cookbook writing process to your food ventures? Was it harder, easier, and/or gratifying in other ways? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing the book was probably a little bit easier than starting Mission Street Food, because the hours were more flexible. We worked very closely on the book, and literally passed the laptop back and forth between us as we talked. Working in a restaurant can be so ephemeral—if the food is good, then it disappears—so it’s nice to have something so solid that we can point to, and say “We made this!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>4) What's up next for Mission Chinese Food? Any plans to expand? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hard to say. We’re definitely bursting the seams of our current arrangement, but our priority has always been to make food that’s really personal, so we don’t have any plans to expand right now. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>5) The book party for your cookbook served up Popeye's fried chicken. What's the connection to Mission Street Food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, there’s no connection between Popeye’s and Mission Street Food, but we do discuss how Popeye’s deserves culinary respect for their combination of deliciousness and low price—part of a general open-mindedness towards various foods.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Review: Plum Gorgeous, by Romney Steele",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1449402402/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/PlumGorgeousCover400.jpg\" alt=\"Plum Gorgeous book cover\" title=\"Plum Gorgeous book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"445\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30391\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fruit, glorious fruit, now is your time. The farmers' market doesn't come alive until the strawberries and cherries show up, and now with stone fruit season in full, chin-dripping swing, we have months of glory ahead. Perfect timing, then, for \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1449402402/kqedorg-20\">Plum Gorgeous\u003c/a>, by Romney Steele, subtitled \u003cem>Recipes and Memories from the Orchard.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These recipes are as much inspirations as instructions, of the why-didn't-I-think-of-that variety. Once you read a description like Strawberry, Nasturium, and Cucumber Salad, Heirloom Tomatoes and Peaches with Burrata, or Honey-Baked Figs with Lavender and Wine, you almost don't need to bother with the cups and teaspoons; the idea is enough. Which is how the generous, bohemian-spirited Steele wants you to cook, anyway. Get the adorable but steely-hearted \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811875040/kqedorg-20\">Miette\u003c/a> bakery cookbook for your Louboutin-wearing, alpha-domme gal-pal, the one with the pink KitchenAid mixer, unchippable nails and spotless counters. \u003cem>Plum Gorgeous\u003c/em> is a little more messy, much more colorful and a lot more forgiving. Starting with great fruit, it would be pretty hard to screw up any of these unfussy, casually delicious dishes, both sweet and savory, all seasoned with a dash of whimsy. The chapters follow the fruit of California's seasons: winter's citrus, spring's berries, the stone fruits of summer and the figs, apples, quinces, grapes, and pears of autumn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/nasturtium400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/nasturtium400.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry, Nasturtium, and Cucumber Salad. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Strawberry, Nasturtium, and Cucumber Salad. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30390\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Strawberry, Nasturtium, and Cucumber Salad. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leafing through the book, it’s impossible not to be charmed at first sight. Read it cover to cover, though, from chirpy, service-y headnotes to poetic musings, and you might see how the whole thing risks falling into the sugar-coated, envy-making genre I'd call \u003cem>how nice for you\u003c/em>. In her previous book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0052HLGZ4/kqedorg-20\">My Nepenthe\u003c/a>, Steele told the story of her grandparents, the founders of Big Sur's fabled restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.nepenthebigsur.com\">Nepenthe\u003c/a>, and her family's involvement with the place through the decades. She alluded, gracefully and with the lightest of touches, to the challenges and complications of combining business, family, and the coastal counterculturalism of the 60s and 70s. Here, though, there's almost nothing but sweetness. Not every cookbook needs to be a memoir, especially not one whose ostensible purpose is simply fruit and fun. But without revealing a real story, a backbone of truth, writing that's aiming for a romantic, color-drenched poetry of the senses can end up reading like advertising copy, breathless and aspirational. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photographs, by Sara Remington (who also shot \u003cstrong>My Nepenthe\u003c/strong>), are absolutely gorgeous, ravishingly styled and lit to look perfectly effortless. I wanted to live in the place captured by these photographs, and I also wanted to know if the cute skirt and candy-colored wellies on page 15 came in my size, and if there was express-shipping for polka-dot red dress blowing in the breeze on page 106. Was this a cookbook, or the latest \u003ca href=\"http://www.anthropologie.com\">Anthropologie\u003c/a> catalog? The more Steele pushes the poetry of the idyllic years she spent raising two children in a mountainside cottage, surrounded by fog, flowers, and fruit trees, the more the reader notices how much she's assiduously sponged out. No sharp edges, no stress, just children spooned in the same bed \"warm and tender like new-rising bread.\" Whispers run throughout: a murmur of returning home to Big Sur both \"discontent and comforted by the coziness of home,\" of “closeness being at once beautiful and a challenge, heartbreaking and poetic.” But what happened? How did she end up, presumably a single mother, in that tiny house? A little more heartbreak explained might have balanced all that honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/couscous400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/couscous400.jpg\" alt=\"Kumquats and Toasted Couscous with Halloumi. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Kumquats and Toasted Couscous with Halloumi. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30389\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kumquats and Toasted Couscous with Halloumi. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe I'm just being crabby, envious of those azure Big Sur mornings and her memories of baking tarts surrounded by the lemon-yellow walls of Henry Miller's kitchen. Or perhaps it was too many lines like this one: \"By this time we were drinking wine and nibbling on the last of the kumquat and couscous salad—just photographed for the book—under the shade of a grapefruit tree in the garden as the sun went down, and lavishing spoonfuls of rose petal jam onto toast with runny cheese for dessert.\" Well, \u003cem>how nice for you\u003c/em>. This is the sort of thing that can take a lot of Raspberry Ratafia to swallow. Honestly, I could deal with the grapefruit tree, the sunset, even the kumquats. But did the jam really have to be \"lavished?\" Wasn’t a spoonful enough?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, no one’s buying cookbook-memoirs called \u003cem>My Trip to Safeway for Another Box of Annie’s Cheddar Bunnies.\u003c/em> Every book like this, however based in real experience, is packaging a fantasy where the grapefruit trees are shady, the jam lavishly spread, and the kumquat salad always ready for its close-up. So enjoy the view, whip up the Rhubarb Mustard, Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Moscato Apricots, Plum Blackberry Sorbet, or Tomato-Grape Ricotta Flatbread, and imagine you’re in a cottage overlooking Big Sur. Now where I can find that perfect polka-dot dress? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/sorbet400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/sorbet400.jpg\" alt=\"Plum Blackberry Sorbet. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Plum Blackberry Sorbet. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30388\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Plum Blackberry Sorbet. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Summer fruit season is in full swing, perfect timing for Romney Steele's new fruit book, \u003cem>Plum Gorgeous: Recipes and Memories from the Orchard\u003c/em>. But it is too sweet for its own good? ",
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"description": "Summer fruit season is in full swing, perfect timing for Romney Steele's new fruit book, Plum Gorgeous: Recipes and Memories from the Orchard. But it is too sweet for its own good? ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1449402402/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/PlumGorgeousCover400.jpg\" alt=\"Plum Gorgeous book cover\" title=\"Plum Gorgeous book cover\" width=\"400\" height=\"445\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30391\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fruit, glorious fruit, now is your time. The farmers' market doesn't come alive until the strawberries and cherries show up, and now with stone fruit season in full, chin-dripping swing, we have months of glory ahead. Perfect timing, then, for \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1449402402/kqedorg-20\">Plum Gorgeous\u003c/a>, by Romney Steele, subtitled \u003cem>Recipes and Memories from the Orchard.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These recipes are as much inspirations as instructions, of the why-didn't-I-think-of-that variety. Once you read a description like Strawberry, Nasturium, and Cucumber Salad, Heirloom Tomatoes and Peaches with Burrata, or Honey-Baked Figs with Lavender and Wine, you almost don't need to bother with the cups and teaspoons; the idea is enough. Which is how the generous, bohemian-spirited Steele wants you to cook, anyway. Get the adorable but steely-hearted \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811875040/kqedorg-20\">Miette\u003c/a> bakery cookbook for your Louboutin-wearing, alpha-domme gal-pal, the one with the pink KitchenAid mixer, unchippable nails and spotless counters. \u003cem>Plum Gorgeous\u003c/em> is a little more messy, much more colorful and a lot more forgiving. Starting with great fruit, it would be pretty hard to screw up any of these unfussy, casually delicious dishes, both sweet and savory, all seasoned with a dash of whimsy. The chapters follow the fruit of California's seasons: winter's citrus, spring's berries, the stone fruits of summer and the figs, apples, quinces, grapes, and pears of autumn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/nasturtium400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/nasturtium400.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry, Nasturtium, and Cucumber Salad. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Strawberry, Nasturtium, and Cucumber Salad. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30390\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Strawberry, Nasturtium, and Cucumber Salad. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leafing through the book, it’s impossible not to be charmed at first sight. Read it cover to cover, though, from chirpy, service-y headnotes to poetic musings, and you might see how the whole thing risks falling into the sugar-coated, envy-making genre I'd call \u003cem>how nice for you\u003c/em>. In her previous book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0052HLGZ4/kqedorg-20\">My Nepenthe\u003c/a>, Steele told the story of her grandparents, the founders of Big Sur's fabled restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.nepenthebigsur.com\">Nepenthe\u003c/a>, and her family's involvement with the place through the decades. She alluded, gracefully and with the lightest of touches, to the challenges and complications of combining business, family, and the coastal counterculturalism of the 60s and 70s. Here, though, there's almost nothing but sweetness. Not every cookbook needs to be a memoir, especially not one whose ostensible purpose is simply fruit and fun. But without revealing a real story, a backbone of truth, writing that's aiming for a romantic, color-drenched poetry of the senses can end up reading like advertising copy, breathless and aspirational. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The photographs, by Sara Remington (who also shot \u003cstrong>My Nepenthe\u003c/strong>), are absolutely gorgeous, ravishingly styled and lit to look perfectly effortless. I wanted to live in the place captured by these photographs, and I also wanted to know if the cute skirt and candy-colored wellies on page 15 came in my size, and if there was express-shipping for polka-dot red dress blowing in the breeze on page 106. Was this a cookbook, or the latest \u003ca href=\"http://www.anthropologie.com\">Anthropologie\u003c/a> catalog? The more Steele pushes the poetry of the idyllic years she spent raising two children in a mountainside cottage, surrounded by fog, flowers, and fruit trees, the more the reader notices how much she's assiduously sponged out. No sharp edges, no stress, just children spooned in the same bed \"warm and tender like new-rising bread.\" Whispers run throughout: a murmur of returning home to Big Sur both \"discontent and comforted by the coziness of home,\" of “closeness being at once beautiful and a challenge, heartbreaking and poetic.” But what happened? How did she end up, presumably a single mother, in that tiny house? A little more heartbreak explained might have balanced all that honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/couscous400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/couscous400.jpg\" alt=\"Kumquats and Toasted Couscous with Halloumi. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Kumquats and Toasted Couscous with Halloumi. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30389\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kumquats and Toasted Couscous with Halloumi. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe I'm just being crabby, envious of those azure Big Sur mornings and her memories of baking tarts surrounded by the lemon-yellow walls of Henry Miller's kitchen. Or perhaps it was too many lines like this one: \"By this time we were drinking wine and nibbling on the last of the kumquat and couscous salad—just photographed for the book—under the shade of a grapefruit tree in the garden as the sun went down, and lavishing spoonfuls of rose petal jam onto toast with runny cheese for dessert.\" Well, \u003cem>how nice for you\u003c/em>. This is the sort of thing that can take a lot of Raspberry Ratafia to swallow. Honestly, I could deal with the grapefruit tree, the sunset, even the kumquats. But did the jam really have to be \"lavished?\" Wasn’t a spoonful enough?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, no one’s buying cookbook-memoirs called \u003cem>My Trip to Safeway for Another Box of Annie’s Cheddar Bunnies.\u003c/em> Every book like this, however based in real experience, is packaging a fantasy where the grapefruit trees are shady, the jam lavishly spread, and the kumquat salad always ready for its close-up. So enjoy the view, whip up the Rhubarb Mustard, Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Moscato Apricots, Plum Blackberry Sorbet, or Tomato-Grape Ricotta Flatbread, and imagine you’re in a cottage overlooking Big Sur. Now where I can find that perfect polka-dot dress? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/sorbet400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/sorbet400.jpg\" alt=\"Plum Blackberry Sorbet. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Plum Blackberry Sorbet. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30388\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Plum Blackberry Sorbet. Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sustainable Seafood: New and Noteworthy Resources",
"title": "Sustainable Seafood: New and Noteworthy Resources",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Up until a couple of recent events, I'd almost given up consuming seafood in this country, saving my shellfish and finfish feasts for my annual visits back home to Australia, where eating sea creatures seems somehow less loaded and certainly more local.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then in May I was fortunate to attend the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a> Sustainable Foods Institute, a media powwow hosted by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_campaigns/?gclid=CI7B5YOg8qkCFRxrgwodZAM0Xw\">Monterey Bay Aquarium\u003c/a> (creator of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch/download.aspx\">Seafood Watch pocket guide\u003c/a>). At the event everyone from fired up media mogul turned bison farmer \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereycountyweekly.com/weblogs/edible-complex/2011/may/26/more-cfs-2011-ted-turner-goes-off-on-bombs-bison-a/\">Ted Turner\u003c/a> and actor-activist \u003ca href=\"http://chefscollaborative.org/2011/05/26/what-does-isabella-rossellini-have-to-do-with-sustainable-seafood/\">Isabelle Rossellini\u003c/a> to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.cindypawlcyn.com/\">Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/a> and author \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/authorbio.html\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a> -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> scientists and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">sustainable fishing advocates\u003c/a> -- schooled me in the latest research and thinking on eating fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/GoodFish.jpg\" alt=\"good fish\" title=\"good fish\" width=\"240\" height=\"284\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-30197\">\u003c/a>That two-day sustainable seafood cram session was followed by a visit to \u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in June to hear Seattle-based seafood chef-writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/about.asp\">Becky Selengut\u003c/a> joke about how she caught crabs on assignment for a magazine and, more seriously, dish out advice on how to buy and cook local seafood in her new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood consumers and home cooks should consider this post a companion piece to my Bay Area Bites colleague \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/17/a-consumers-guide-to-buying-sustainable-fish/\">Denise Santoro Lincoln's sustainable fish primer\u003c/a> from February, which is full of good tips and reliable resources on this very subject. Check that post out and then come back here. I'll wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, let's get the bad stuff out of the way, shall we? Buying fish is confusing and challenging because you're concerned about species extinction, pollution problems, \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialplate.com/blog/2011/06/buy-catch/\">bycatch issues\u003c/a>, and health concerns, right? And you should be. While seafood is an excellent source of lean protein and heart- and brain-friendly omega-3s, it can also be laden with mercury, which can do a nasty number on the brain and nervous systems of vulnerable populations (think nursing women, children, and the unborn). Add to that persistent organic pollutants (also known as POPS) which, despite the cute acronym, are hormone-disrupting neurotoxins that can wreak havoc on humans, and it's a wonder you're not hungry for a slab of farmed salmon or wild tuna cooked quickly on the grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, for the ethical environmentalists among us, there's the sad realization that we're coming to the end of the line seafood-species wise. We've done a good job globally of depleting fish stocks to worrisomely low levels, with Atlantic cod and bluefin tuna on a fast track towards extinction. Throw in the real problems with certain farmed fish businesses (think waste-disease-pollution) and the anxiety around \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/12/the-10-biggest-food-stories-of-2010/67533/#slide2\"> GMO-salmon\u003c/a> and the dreaded \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/06/frankenfish-milk-and-the-return-of-acid-rain/58861/\">Frankenfish\u003c/a>, and it's enough to make a seafood lover switch to some other protein source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough with the horror stories from the open seas. There are still ways to get a seafood fix, it just takes a little education, thought and planning. But if you've read this far you're probably willing to go the extra mile for mussels or work a bit harder for halibut. Chances are, you've likely already done that as far as fruit and vegetables are concerned (local, organic, seasonal) and meat (grass-fed, humanely-raised, thoughtfully slaughtered).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Some suggestions for making healthier, more sustainable seafood choices, gleaned from the experts above:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Think small:\u003c/strong> Americans are conditioned to thinking bigger is better. Not necessarily so when it comes to fish. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/08/FDDP1GTD71.DTL\">Sardines\u003c/a> and anchovies, those little, oily bottom feeders of the sea, revered in other parts of the world, are delicious, nutritious, and affordable, and carry a lower risk for toxins than big fish like tuna.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Buy seasonally and diversify:\u003c/strong> Would you expect to buy great tasting, local, organic tomatoes in January? Apply the same sensibility to your seafood shopping and pick shellfish and finfish during their peak time for freshness, taste, and price. Dungeness crab is harvested in the fall and winter, for instance. When in doubt, ask. Most Americans who eat seafood choose salmon, shrimp, or tuna. Check out Arctic char or Pacific halibut for a change.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Reconsider frozen and farmed fish:\u003c/strong> A properly frozen fish (landed gently, bled, and quickly chilled preferably at sea) can be a high-quality, carbon-foot print friendly option, if handled well, says Selengut. While hook-and-line wild fish is a better bet than seafood caught by dredging or trawling, which can produce a lot of bycatch (accidentally caught species unintentionally killed in the fishing process), farmed fish are a wise choice in some circumstances, adds the cookbook author. Farmed fish may be a more sustainable choice for fish lower on the food chain that are either vegetarian or require only small amounts of fish protein to produce flesh. Find an example of a farmed fish that may be gentler on the environment in a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,2081796,00.html\">\u003cem>Time\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a> story on a western Massachusetts-based outfit farming barramundi, a fish much loved in my homeland.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Find a fishmonger you trust:\u003c/strong> Local picks include the year-old San Francisco-based online sustainable seafood supplier \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>, co-founded by \u003ca href=\"http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/i-love-blue-sea/\">Martin Reed\u003c/a>, a panelist at the recent Sustainable Foods Institute. I love blue sea doesn't sell any of Seafood Watch's red-listed fish and ships via FedEx across the country. (Bay Area residents can pick up directly, avoiding the expense and guilt associated with air freight).\n\u003cp>Newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://sirenseasa.com/\">Siren SeaSA\u003c/a> founded by Anna Larsen, offers a CSA-like option for seafood lovers: For six Saturdays starting July 16, subscribers can pick up an assortment of seasonal, sustainable seafood in San Francisco or Petaluma. Catch of the day may include wild king salmon from Bodega Bay, squid from Monterey, wild-caught Pacific sardines, Miyagi oysters from Tomales Bay, and hook-and-line caught black cod. Limited to 100 members for its trial run, a six-week subscription is still available at a cost of $255 for seafood portions calculated to feed four people. Larsen plans to continue the program beyond this initial summer launch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Community Supported Fishery (CSF) program is also running this summer out of \u003ca href=\"https://sites.google.com/site/hmbfishing/clients\">Half Moon Bay.\u003c/a> And a very new online resource \u003ca href=\"http://www.localcatch.org/\">Local Catch\u003c/a>, promises connections to CSF members via a zip code search function.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Frequent seafood restaurants with a sustainable seafood rap\u003c/strong>: Top picks from \u003cem>San Francisco's\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/the-new-school-of-fish\">\"Good Fish, Bad Fish\"\u003c/a> story by Erik Vance this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebasin.com/\">The Basin\u003c/a> in Saratoga, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cooleatz.com/flea-st-cafe/index.html\">Flea St. Cafe\u003c/a> in Menlo Park, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nettiescrabshack.com/\">Nettie's Crab Shack\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tatakisushibar.com/\">Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://revivalbarandkitchen.com/\">Revival Bar & Kitchen\u003c/a> in Berkeley, and\u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\"> Zazu\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa. See how\u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/scoring-the-top-menus\"> 18 other big name Bay Area restaurants fared on the sustainable seafood\u003c/a> front in the magazine's story.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Learn more about sustainable seafood:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Read\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/\">\u003cem>Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a> by Paul Greenberg, which documents the tenuous outlook for salmon, sea bass, cod, and tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Follow\u003c/strong> the reporting of sustainable seafood writers such as former \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> scribe Barry Estabrook of \u003ca href=\"http://politicsoftheplate.com/\">Politics of the Plate\u003c/a> and freelance food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/clips.htm\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch\u003c/strong> Isabelle Rossellini's entertaining, educational, and amusing \u003ca href=\"http://www.sundancechannel.com/greenporno/\">Green Porno\u003c/a> series, which documents the plight of sea creatures and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>See\u003c/strong> the seafood documentaries \u003ca href=\"https://theendofthelinemovie.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.redgoldfilm.com/\">Red Gold\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cook\u003c/strong> Find Mark Bittman's simple recipes for serving white fish fillet a dozen ways in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/magazine/mag-03Eat-t.html\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Check out acclaimed seafood chef and National Geographic Fellow \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/press\">Barton Seaver's\u003c/a> new cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/\">\u003cem>For Cod and Country\u003c/em>\u003c/a> or Selengut's \u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>, which features fifteen types of Pacific Coast sea creatures (including clams, crabs, char, cod, salmon, scallops, squid, and sardines) in 75 recipes. Check out the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/index.asp\">instructional online videos\u003c/a> from the private chef and cooking teacher, who also blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefreinvented.com/\">chefreinvented\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Got a sustainable seafood resource to share? Add your voice below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.youtube.com/embed/D5zdLHWkCXw\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Up until a couple of recent events, I'd almost given up consuming seafood in this country, saving my shellfish and finfish feasts for my annual visits back home to Australia, where eating sea creatures seems somehow less loaded and certainly more local.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then in May I was fortunate to attend the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a> Sustainable Foods Institute, a media powwow hosted by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_campaigns/?gclid=CI7B5YOg8qkCFRxrgwodZAM0Xw\">Monterey Bay Aquarium\u003c/a> (creator of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/cr_seafoodwatch/download.aspx\">Seafood Watch pocket guide\u003c/a>). At the event everyone from fired up media mogul turned bison farmer \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereycountyweekly.com/weblogs/edible-complex/2011/may/26/more-cfs-2011-ted-turner-goes-off-on-bombs-bison-a/\">Ted Turner\u003c/a> and actor-activist \u003ca href=\"http://chefscollaborative.org/2011/05/26/what-does-isabella-rossellini-have-to-do-with-sustainable-seafood/\">Isabelle Rossellini\u003c/a> to chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.cindypawlcyn.com/\">Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/a> and author \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/authorbio.html\">Paul Greenberg\u003c/a> -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx\">Seafood Watch\u003c/a> scientists and \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">sustainable fishing advocates\u003c/a> -- schooled me in the latest research and thinking on eating fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/07/GoodFish.jpg\" alt=\"good fish\" title=\"good fish\" width=\"240\" height=\"284\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-30197\">\u003c/a>That two-day sustainable seafood cram session was followed by a visit to \u003ca href=\"http://omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in June to hear Seattle-based seafood chef-writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/about.asp\">Becky Selengut\u003c/a> joke about how she caught crabs on assignment for a magazine and, more seriously, dish out advice on how to buy and cook local seafood in her new cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1570616620?ie=UTF8&tag=seasoncornuc-20&link_code=as3&camp=211189&creative=373489&creativeASIN=1570616620\">\u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seafood consumers and home cooks should consider this post a companion piece to my Bay Area Bites colleague \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/17/a-consumers-guide-to-buying-sustainable-fish/\">Denise Santoro Lincoln's sustainable fish primer\u003c/a> from February, which is full of good tips and reliable resources on this very subject. Check that post out and then come back here. I'll wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, let's get the bad stuff out of the way, shall we? Buying fish is confusing and challenging because you're concerned about species extinction, pollution problems, \u003ca href=\"http://www.theperennialplate.com/blog/2011/06/buy-catch/\">bycatch issues\u003c/a>, and health concerns, right? And you should be. While seafood is an excellent source of lean protein and heart- and brain-friendly omega-3s, it can also be laden with mercury, which can do a nasty number on the brain and nervous systems of vulnerable populations (think nursing women, children, and the unborn). Add to that persistent organic pollutants (also known as POPS) which, despite the cute acronym, are hormone-disrupting neurotoxins that can wreak havoc on humans, and it's a wonder you're not hungry for a slab of farmed salmon or wild tuna cooked quickly on the grill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, for the ethical environmentalists among us, there's the sad realization that we're coming to the end of the line seafood-species wise. We've done a good job globally of depleting fish stocks to worrisomely low levels, with Atlantic cod and bluefin tuna on a fast track towards extinction. Throw in the real problems with certain farmed fish businesses (think waste-disease-pollution) and the anxiety around \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/12/the-10-biggest-food-stories-of-2010/67533/#slide2\"> GMO-salmon\u003c/a> and the dreaded \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2010/06/frankenfish-milk-and-the-return-of-acid-rain/58861/\">Frankenfish\u003c/a>, and it's enough to make a seafood lover switch to some other protein source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enough with the horror stories from the open seas. There are still ways to get a seafood fix, it just takes a little education, thought and planning. But if you've read this far you're probably willing to go the extra mile for mussels or work a bit harder for halibut. Chances are, you've likely already done that as far as fruit and vegetables are concerned (local, organic, seasonal) and meat (grass-fed, humanely-raised, thoughtfully slaughtered).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Some suggestions for making healthier, more sustainable seafood choices, gleaned from the experts above:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Think small:\u003c/strong> Americans are conditioned to thinking bigger is better. Not necessarily so when it comes to fish. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/08/FDDP1GTD71.DTL\">Sardines\u003c/a> and anchovies, those little, oily bottom feeders of the sea, revered in other parts of the world, are delicious, nutritious, and affordable, and carry a lower risk for toxins than big fish like tuna.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Buy seasonally and diversify:\u003c/strong> Would you expect to buy great tasting, local, organic tomatoes in January? Apply the same sensibility to your seafood shopping and pick shellfish and finfish during their peak time for freshness, taste, and price. Dungeness crab is harvested in the fall and winter, for instance. When in doubt, ask. Most Americans who eat seafood choose salmon, shrimp, or tuna. Check out Arctic char or Pacific halibut for a change.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Reconsider frozen and farmed fish:\u003c/strong> A properly frozen fish (landed gently, bled, and quickly chilled preferably at sea) can be a high-quality, carbon-foot print friendly option, if handled well, says Selengut. While hook-and-line wild fish is a better bet than seafood caught by dredging or trawling, which can produce a lot of bycatch (accidentally caught species unintentionally killed in the fishing process), farmed fish are a wise choice in some circumstances, adds the cookbook author. Farmed fish may be a more sustainable choice for fish lower on the food chain that are either vegetarian or require only small amounts of fish protein to produce flesh. Find an example of a farmed fish that may be gentler on the environment in a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,2081796,00.html\">\u003cem>Time\u003c/em> magazine\u003c/a> story on a western Massachusetts-based outfit farming barramundi, a fish much loved in my homeland.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Find a fishmonger you trust:\u003c/strong> Local picks include the year-old San Francisco-based online sustainable seafood supplier \u003ca href=\"http://www.ilovebluesea.com/\">i love blue sea\u003c/a>, co-founded by \u003ca href=\"http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/i-love-blue-sea/\">Martin Reed\u003c/a>, a panelist at the recent Sustainable Foods Institute. I love blue sea doesn't sell any of Seafood Watch's red-listed fish and ships via FedEx across the country. (Bay Area residents can pick up directly, avoiding the expense and guilt associated with air freight).\n\u003cp>Newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://sirenseasa.com/\">Siren SeaSA\u003c/a> founded by Anna Larsen, offers a CSA-like option for seafood lovers: For six Saturdays starting July 16, subscribers can pick up an assortment of seasonal, sustainable seafood in San Francisco or Petaluma. Catch of the day may include wild king salmon from Bodega Bay, squid from Monterey, wild-caught Pacific sardines, Miyagi oysters from Tomales Bay, and hook-and-line caught black cod. Limited to 100 members for its trial run, a six-week subscription is still available at a cost of $255 for seafood portions calculated to feed four people. Larsen plans to continue the program beyond this initial summer launch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Community Supported Fishery (CSF) program is also running this summer out of \u003ca href=\"https://sites.google.com/site/hmbfishing/clients\">Half Moon Bay.\u003c/a> And a very new online resource \u003ca href=\"http://www.localcatch.org/\">Local Catch\u003c/a>, promises connections to CSF members via a zip code search function.\u003c/p>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Frequent seafood restaurants with a sustainable seafood rap\u003c/strong>: Top picks from \u003cem>San Francisco's\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/the-new-school-of-fish\">\"Good Fish, Bad Fish\"\u003c/a> story by Erik Vance this year include \u003ca href=\"http://www.thebasin.com/\">The Basin\u003c/a> in Saratoga, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cooleatz.com/flea-st-cafe/index.html\">Flea St. Cafe\u003c/a> in Menlo Park, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nettiescrabshack.com/\">Nettie's Crab Shack\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.tatakisushibar.com/\">Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar\u003c/a> in San Francisco, \u003ca href=\"http://revivalbarandkitchen.com/\">Revival Bar & Kitchen\u003c/a> in Berkeley, and\u003ca href=\"http://www.zazurestaurant.com/\"> Zazu\u003c/a> in Santa Rosa. See how\u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/scoring-the-top-menus\"> 18 other big name Bay Area restaurants fared on the sustainable seafood\u003c/a> front in the magazine's story.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Learn more about sustainable seafood:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Read\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourfish.org/\">\u003cem>Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food\u003c/em>\u003c/a> by Paul Greenberg, which documents the tenuous outlook for salmon, sea bass, cod, and tuna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Follow\u003c/strong> the reporting of sustainable seafood writers such as former \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em> scribe Barry Estabrook of \u003ca href=\"http://politicsoftheplate.com/\">Politics of the Plate\u003c/a> and freelance food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.leschin-hoar.com/clips.htm\">Clare Leschin-Hoar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch\u003c/strong> Isabelle Rossellini's entertaining, educational, and amusing \u003ca href=\"http://www.sundancechannel.com/greenporno/\">Green Porno\u003c/a> series, which documents the plight of sea creatures and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>See\u003c/strong> the seafood documentaries \u003ca href=\"https://theendofthelinemovie.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.redgoldfilm.com/\">Red Gold\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cook\u003c/strong> Find Mark Bittman's simple recipes for serving white fish fillet a dozen ways in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/magazine/mag-03Eat-t.html\">\u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. Check out acclaimed seafood chef and National Geographic Fellow \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/press\">Barton Seaver's\u003c/a> new cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartonseaver.org/\">\u003cem>For Cod and Country\u003c/em>\u003c/a> or Selengut's \u003cem>good fish\u003c/em>, which features fifteen types of Pacific Coast sea creatures (including clams, crabs, char, cod, salmon, scallops, squid, and sardines) in 75 recipes. Check out the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfishbook.com/gfb/index.asp\">instructional online videos\u003c/a> from the private chef and cooking teacher, who also blogs at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefreinvented.com/\">chefreinvented\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Got a sustainable seafood resource to share? Add your voice below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater",
"title": "Book Review: Tender, by Nigel Slater",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/tender-book.jpg\" alt=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" title=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" width=\"211\" height=\"292\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-27877\">\u003c/a>We may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise\">\u003cem>éminences grises\u003c/em>\u003c/a> like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? \u003cstrong>Moreish\u003c/strong>, because whatever it is, you \u003cem>must\u003c/em> have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740370/kqedorg-20\">Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a> was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Slater, a longtime columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/nigelslater\">The Observer\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Nigel-Slater/e/B001HCZOLK/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1\">author of 10 cookbooks\u003c/a>, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/a>, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592401619/kqedorg-20\">Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger\u003c/a>. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating\u003c/a>, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On spinach:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it).\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On cauliflower:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the too-many snails who \"have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings,\" he's still a sucker for aesthetics. \"I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow,\" he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,\"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out.\" (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. \"Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.\") \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like \u003cem>A Soup the Color of Marigolds\u003c/em> (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); \u003cem>An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds\u003c/em>; and \u003cem>Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast\u003c/em>. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "British food writer Nigel Slater goes back to the garden in his new book, \u003cem>Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/em>. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/tender-book.jpg\" alt=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" title=\"Tender - Nigel Slater\" width=\"211\" height=\"292\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-27877\">\u003c/a>We may be a nation of individualists, every man and woman a maverick in his or her own heart, but you'd never know it to read our recipes, so rigidly do we adhere to a generic, codified blandness in laying our how-tos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, those stiff-upper-lip Brits kick over the traces when they start to mix and fry. Nigella Lawson, Sybil Kapoor, Tamsin Day-Lewis, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Dan Lepard, even \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89minence_grise\">\u003cem>éminences grises\u003c/em>\u003c/a> like Elizabeth David and Patience Gray: not for these writers the strict nothing-but-the-facts-ma'am method of American cookbooks. Across the pond, lively verbs and their adverbial companions shimmy freely in recipe methods. Even adjectives get their due. My favorite? \u003cstrong>Moreish\u003c/strong>, because whatever it is, you \u003cem>must\u003c/em> have one more bite. Where Americans are folksy, British writers are droll. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, I tend to read those written by authors with literary or journalistic backgrounds, who sift and measure their prose with as much diligence as they do their self-rising flour and diced courgettes. (Ah, those courgettes! Those aubergines! That black treacle! All almost the same as zucchini, eggplant, and molasses, but linguistically shifted just enough to nudge the reader into a right-hand driver's seat.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And one of the best is Nigel Slater, whose latest work \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607740370/kqedorg-20\">Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch\u003c/a> was just released in an American edition by Berkeley's Ten Speed Press. This beautifully designed, chocolate-brown clothbound volume (complete with silvery place-keeping ribbon) is a celebration of the production of the slim but plant-packed garden of Slater's London townhouse. As dedicated an organic gardener as he may be, Slater makes no pretensions to urban self-sufficiency in his smallish backyard. As he writes, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\n\"I have sown somewhat more than I have reaped. But as somewhere to watch things grow, a place to tend and nurture, to sit and eat, to drink and think, to taste and smell, and most importantly to understand the unity of growing, cooking, and eating, it is a monumental success. At least it is to me.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Slater, a longtime columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/profile/nigelslater\">The Observer\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Nigel-Slater/e/B001HCZOLK/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_pop_1\">author of 10 cookbooks\u003c/a>, is known in this country (if he's known at all) for his two most personal books, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592402348/kqedorg-20\">The Kitchen Diaries\u003c/a>, a week-by-week seasonal calendar of what he was cooking and eating at home, and the childhood memoir \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1592401619/kqedorg-20\">Toast--The Story of a Boy's Hunger\u003c/a>. His writing style is vivid and individual without being exactly personal. Reading this book is like wandering though an idiosyncratically decorated house: this lamp, this shell, this book reveals taste and history more succinctly than any long-winded curriculum vitae. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slater can wax rhapsodic as Alice Waters about the dewy-fresh beauties of homegrown veg. But like his countryman Fergus Henderson, author of the excellent (and drily humorous) \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060585366/kqedorg-20\">The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating\u003c/a>, Slater has a well-honed wit and an unshakeable set of opinions about just about everything in and out of the kitchen, and he's not shy about telling us what he really thinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On spinach:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"When spinach is truly fresh, it squeaks as you rummage around in the pile, like the sound of wet Wellingtons on a rubber floor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Not for me the pile of buttered carrots on the plate. Too sweet, too orange, (too bloody cheerful more like it).\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On cauliflower:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Sometimes I think it wouldn't bother me if I never saw one again.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the box hedges surrounding his vegetable plots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Hedges, however neatly they frame your peas, beans, and swaying sunflowers, are also snail hotels, providing a home for hundreds of gastropods who come out at night, drink from your beer traps, then go on a drunken rampage.\"\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Insults may be a cheap form of wit, but Slater also takes the time to point out the virtues of even his less-favorite things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the too-many snails who \"have partied on [his] carefully nurtured seedlings,\" he's still a sucker for aesthetics. \"I sometimes think the hedges would have gone long ago if it wasn't for the achingly beautiful sight of them covered in snow,\" he writes, and an accompanying photograph of their tidy snow-piled geometry proves his point. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Winter can also make even cauliflower worth eating. Just after slagging off this unloved brassica, he admits,\"Yet I occasionally long for a simple white bowl of cauliflower cheese on a frosty day, especially when it has been made with love, and the sauce has been improved with bay and clove and the cheese is of the robust sort that makes veins on the roof of your mouth stand out.\" (And thank you, Nigel, for providing a new yardstick for judging cheese. \"Ah, this Montgomery cheddar. Piquant, yes, but the veins on the roof of my mouth are unmoved.\") \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The book is part gardener's handbook, with growing tips and lists of his favorite, often heirloom, varieties to grow. There are useful lists of seasonings, accompaniments, and companions for each vegetable (cauliflower loves cream, caraway, juniper, anchovies, and gin), tips on harvesting, choosing, and storing, and lastly, delicious recipes for lovely-sounding things, like \u003cem>A Soup the Color of Marigolds\u003c/em> (made from carrots and yellow tomatoes); \u003cem>An Extremely Moist Chocolate-Beet Cake with Creme Fraiche and Poppy Seeds\u003c/em>; and \u003cem>Spinach, Melted Cheese, and Lightly Burned Toast\u003c/em>. This is a vegetable cookbook, but not a vegetarian one; while many of the recipes are purely plant-based, there are plenty of dishes made to feature or accompany a whole steamed fish or a hunk of grilled lamb. The recipes are bold-flavored and straightforward, with a Middle Eastern touch there, a hit of Thai or Indian here, and some unmistakablly British comfort food (like that aforementioned cauliflower in cheese sauce, an English school-lunch dish if every there was one). It's a lot of how we eat now: lots of plants, geared towards the seasons, not too fussy, globally inspired. Moreish, I'd say. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Remembering My Mother's Cookbooks ",
"title": "Remembering My Mother's Cookbooks ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27287\" title=\"MOM cookbook collage\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/cookbook-MD2.jpg\" alt=\"MOM cookbook collage\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Collage by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you remember your mother's favorite cookbook?\u003c/strong> My own mother, raised in the 1950s, married with children in the 1960s and 1970s, a working mom with a vegetarian husband and teenagers in the 1980s, had dozens of cookbooks on her kitchen shelves, each a talisman of a particular moment. To me, each of them is as much a part of her as her scarves and shoes, her Estee Lauder perfumes, the coral lipsticks and gold foil of half-unrolled tubes of Certs always in her pocketbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I imagine, there are moms who love their books from Rachael Ray and Paula Deen, who gravy-stain their Emerils and their Inas. But I made my very first cookies \"all by myself\" from a recipe in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookbkjj.com/college/joy.htm\">Joy of Cooking\u003c/a>, the late-50s version that still had hand-drawn illustrations explaining how to skin a squirrel and decorate an Easter bunny cake. The recipe? Rolled Caramel Cookies, fussy, waferlike things that had to be swiftly removed from the baking sheet and wrapped into a curl around the handle of a wooden spoon while still warm. Even then, I wasn't happy in the kitchen unless I was trying out something just a little beyond me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I watched, then helped, my mother make the perfect Banana Tea Bread from Craig Claibourne's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060160101/kqedorg-20\">New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>, whose austere layout was complemented by black-and-white photographs of an equally severe hauteur, presenting every veal roast like an affair of state, complete with bone-china consomme cups and silver candelabra. For dinner parties, we tried out the poached, stuffed sole with tricky \u003cem>beurre blanc\u003c/em> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/a> and the chocolate mousse from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/037571006X/kqedorg-20\">The French Chef Cookbook\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pretty soon, though, Mom loosened up, making homemade granola, whipping up Tiger's Milk shakes, and growing her own basil and tomatoes in the backyard. Now into the kitchen came \u003ca href=\"http://theculinarycellar.blogspot.com/2010/04/perla-meyers-seasonal-cook.html\">The Seasonal Kitchen\u003c/a> by Perla Meyers, circa 1973, which I loved for its earthy, oily-garlicky insistence on cooking what was fresh from the garden, and for its chunky, resolutely modern sans-serif typeface and brown-paper pages the color of a Bloomingdale's shopping bag. But I especially loved the photo of Meyers on the cover. The photographer had snapped her striding along, a confident brunette in orange turtleneck and black trousers, looking like Mary Tyler Moore if Mary had clutched a shopping bag bursting with organic vegetables instead of a plaid tam o'shanter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It followed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/York-Times-Natural-Foods-Cookbook/dp/038000951X\">New York Times' Natural Foods Cookbook\u003c/a> (1971), in which the paper of record tried to get down with what those crazy kids were doing, with their whole wheat breads and their bean sprouts and their blackstrap molasses. Mom made her own mayonnaise, went to the vitamin-smelling health food store for cartons of brewer's yeast and wheat germ. She still keeps a plastic bag of soy flour in the fridge, the essential ingredient for the excellent Soya Coffeecake. And I still remember, vividly, the terrifying (\"3 fruit bats, well washed but neither skinned nor eviscerated\") yet fascinating recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://bertc.com/subfive/recipes/fruitbat.htm\">Fruit Bat Soup\u003c/a>, not to mention the groovy, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henri_Rousseau\">Rousseau\u003c/a>-inspired dust jacket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that my parents were a lot more interested in health food than most of our suburban neighbors at the time, these books were shortly followed by Mollie Katzen's whimsically hand-written, cheese-heavy \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081304/kqedorg-20\">Moosewood Cookbook\u003c/a>, then the equally whimsical \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002NX41VQ/kqedorg-20\">Vegetarian Epicure\u003c/a> (1972) by Anna Thomas, and Katzen's follow-up, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081266/kqedorg-20\">The Enchanted Broccoli Forest\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia gathered dust while these went into heavy rotation when first my sisters, then myself, then my father all became vegetarians. Easy broiled lamb chops and chicken breasts were replaced by tofu nut balls and endless veggie chopping, much to my now-working mother's irritation. Having since tackled the multi-part, multi-page recipes in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0767908236/kqedorg-20\">The Greens Cookbook\u003c/a> to impress my still-vegetarian sisters, I can understand her frustration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank god, then, for quiche, salvation of the 1980s busy mother. Already a dab hand at piecrust, she could whip up a quiche à la anything the night before, pop it into the fridge, and instruct my dad to put in the oven an hour before dinnertime, which he could just about manage, having learned from the infamous Roast Chicken Incident that our oven only worked when \u003cem>both\u003c/em> knobs were turned on, one for temperature and the other for settings like \u003cem>bake\u003c/em> and \u003cem>broil.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Silver Palate's luscious chocolate fudge sauce was a much-loved indulgence in our house (over Haagen-Dazs vanilla Swiss almond ice cream, of course) and so the fabulous \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0761145974/kqedorg-20\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> (1982) quickly earned a place on the shelf. I pored over it, imagining a glamorous life of high-style dinner parties punctuated with goat-cheese phyllo triangles and seafood lasagna. As Paul Prudhomme became a celebrity chef on the strength of his blackened redfish and shrimp remoulade, my parents took jaunts to New Orleans, coming back with spiral-bound cookbooks full of recipes for gooey bananas Foster and gloriously messy barbecued shrimp, served swimming in bowls of tinglingly spicy sauce with yards of crisp-crusted French bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although my father hadn't been to the Bay Area since shipping out for the Pacific during WWII, he nonetheless bought my mom a copy of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0679758186/kqedorg-20\">Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook\u003c/a>, written by Alice Waters with then-chef Paul Bertolli. My mother never cooked from it (too much grilled squab and nasturtium-flower salads to make it useful for suburban New Jersey, circa 1982) but I read and re-read it endlessly. Alice Waters had escaped the suburbs of New Jersey to eat deliciously in France and re-invent herself in California; how I longed to do that, too!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir-frying, fueled by the wok craze and our own forays into the newly popular Hunan and Szechuan restaurants in New York City, came into my mother's kitchen through \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0671509934/kqedorg-20\">The Thousand-Recipe Chinese Cookbook\u003c/a> by Gloria Bley Miller (1984). Tucked inside the front cover was a soy sauce-spattered sheaf of printed recipes from Uncle Tai's, my parents' favorite Hunan restaurant, a fancy place in midtown with ice-blue wallpaper, tuxedo'd captains, and fantastic hacked chicken, sesame noodles, and lamb with scallions, worlds away from the greasy fried noodles dunked in sticky duck sauce at our local strip-mall Cantonese joints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still find the sight of any of these books--on the shelf of a used bookstore, or in the welcoming, pleasantly decorated kitchens of ladies in their 50s and 60s--incredibly comforting. A glimpse of the Silver Palate Cookbook or \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0688028470/kqedorg-20\">Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen\u003c/a> (1984), buttressed by the twin volumes of Mastering the Art of French Cooking,and I feel like I've come home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother watches Ina Garten's cooking shows now, and collects her bright, enticingly easy Barefoot Contessa cookbooks. I tuck jars of homemade jam into my suitcase when I go to visit her in New York; she stocks up on goat cheese, bagels, salmon, and lamb chops. She's discovered panko crumbs and Prosecco, rainbow chard and pomegranate juice. I sneak downstairs in the morning, to get the coffee going before she gets up. We cook together, and she reminds me again of how, at 15, I threw her out of the kitchen so I could finish whatever I was making my own way. We laugh about this, and she points out my own \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Stephanie-Rosenbaum/e/B001KHWNVQ/ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_3?qid=1304875049&sr=8-3\">three cookbooks\u003c/a>, now on display in the wicker kitchen bookshelf. I tell her I learned everything from her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy Mother's Day, Mom.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "From Julia Child to the Moosewood Cookbook, a Mother's Day reminiscence on one writer's Mom and her cookbooks. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-27287\" title=\"MOM cookbook collage\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/05/cookbook-MD2.jpg\" alt=\"MOM cookbook collage\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Collage by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you remember your mother's favorite cookbook?\u003c/strong> My own mother, raised in the 1950s, married with children in the 1960s and 1970s, a working mom with a vegetarian husband and teenagers in the 1980s, had dozens of cookbooks on her kitchen shelves, each a talisman of a particular moment. To me, each of them is as much a part of her as her scarves and shoes, her Estee Lauder perfumes, the coral lipsticks and gold foil of half-unrolled tubes of Certs always in her pocketbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I imagine, there are moms who love their books from Rachael Ray and Paula Deen, who gravy-stain their Emerils and their Inas. But I made my very first cookies \"all by myself\" from a recipe in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookbkjj.com/college/joy.htm\">Joy of Cooking\u003c/a>, the late-50s version that still had hand-drawn illustrations explaining how to skin a squirrel and decorate an Easter bunny cake. The recipe? Rolled Caramel Cookies, fussy, waferlike things that had to be swiftly removed from the baking sheet and wrapped into a curl around the handle of a wooden spoon while still warm. Even then, I wasn't happy in the kitchen unless I was trying out something just a little beyond me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I watched, then helped, my mother make the perfect Banana Tea Bread from Craig Claibourne's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060160101/kqedorg-20\">New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>, whose austere layout was complemented by black-and-white photographs of an equally severe hauteur, presenting every veal roast like an affair of state, complete with bone-china consomme cups and silver candelabra. For dinner parties, we tried out the poached, stuffed sole with tricky \u003cem>beurre blanc\u003c/em> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/a> and the chocolate mousse from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/037571006X/kqedorg-20\">The French Chef Cookbook\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pretty soon, though, Mom loosened up, making homemade granola, whipping up Tiger's Milk shakes, and growing her own basil and tomatoes in the backyard. Now into the kitchen came \u003ca href=\"http://theculinarycellar.blogspot.com/2010/04/perla-meyers-seasonal-cook.html\">The Seasonal Kitchen\u003c/a> by Perla Meyers, circa 1973, which I loved for its earthy, oily-garlicky insistence on cooking what was fresh from the garden, and for its chunky, resolutely modern sans-serif typeface and brown-paper pages the color of a Bloomingdale's shopping bag. But I especially loved the photo of Meyers on the cover. The photographer had snapped her striding along, a confident brunette in orange turtleneck and black trousers, looking like Mary Tyler Moore if Mary had clutched a shopping bag bursting with organic vegetables instead of a plaid tam o'shanter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It followed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/York-Times-Natural-Foods-Cookbook/dp/038000951X\">New York Times' Natural Foods Cookbook\u003c/a> (1971), in which the paper of record tried to get down with what those crazy kids were doing, with their whole wheat breads and their bean sprouts and their blackstrap molasses. Mom made her own mayonnaise, went to the vitamin-smelling health food store for cartons of brewer's yeast and wheat germ. She still keeps a plastic bag of soy flour in the fridge, the essential ingredient for the excellent Soya Coffeecake. And I still remember, vividly, the terrifying (\"3 fruit bats, well washed but neither skinned nor eviscerated\") yet fascinating recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://bertc.com/subfive/recipes/fruitbat.htm\">Fruit Bat Soup\u003c/a>, not to mention the groovy, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henri_Rousseau\">Rousseau\u003c/a>-inspired dust jacket.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that my parents were a lot more interested in health food than most of our suburban neighbors at the time, these books were shortly followed by Mollie Katzen's whimsically hand-written, cheese-heavy \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081304/kqedorg-20\">Moosewood Cookbook\u003c/a>, then the equally whimsical \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B002NX41VQ/kqedorg-20\">Vegetarian Epicure\u003c/a> (1972) by Anna Thomas, and Katzen's follow-up, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580081266/kqedorg-20\">The Enchanted Broccoli Forest\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia gathered dust while these went into heavy rotation when first my sisters, then myself, then my father all became vegetarians. Easy broiled lamb chops and chicken breasts were replaced by tofu nut balls and endless veggie chopping, much to my now-working mother's irritation. Having since tackled the multi-part, multi-page recipes in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0767908236/kqedorg-20\">The Greens Cookbook\u003c/a> to impress my still-vegetarian sisters, I can understand her frustration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank god, then, for quiche, salvation of the 1980s busy mother. Already a dab hand at piecrust, she could whip up a quiche à la anything the night before, pop it into the fridge, and instruct my dad to put in the oven an hour before dinnertime, which he could just about manage, having learned from the infamous Roast Chicken Incident that our oven only worked when \u003cem>both\u003c/em> knobs were turned on, one for temperature and the other for settings like \u003cem>bake\u003c/em> and \u003cem>broil.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Silver Palate's luscious chocolate fudge sauce was a much-loved indulgence in our house (over Haagen-Dazs vanilla Swiss almond ice cream, of course) and so the fabulous \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0761145974/kqedorg-20\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> (1982) quickly earned a place on the shelf. I pored over it, imagining a glamorous life of high-style dinner parties punctuated with goat-cheese phyllo triangles and seafood lasagna. As Paul Prudhomme became a celebrity chef on the strength of his blackened redfish and shrimp remoulade, my parents took jaunts to New Orleans, coming back with spiral-bound cookbooks full of recipes for gooey bananas Foster and gloriously messy barbecued shrimp, served swimming in bowls of tinglingly spicy sauce with yards of crisp-crusted French bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although my father hadn't been to the Bay Area since shipping out for the Pacific during WWII, he nonetheless bought my mom a copy of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0679758186/kqedorg-20\">Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook\u003c/a>, written by Alice Waters with then-chef Paul Bertolli. My mother never cooked from it (too much grilled squab and nasturtium-flower salads to make it useful for suburban New Jersey, circa 1982) but I read and re-read it endlessly. Alice Waters had escaped the suburbs of New Jersey to eat deliciously in France and re-invent herself in California; how I longed to do that, too!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir-frying, fueled by the wok craze and our own forays into the newly popular Hunan and Szechuan restaurants in New York City, came into my mother's kitchen through \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0671509934/kqedorg-20\">The Thousand-Recipe Chinese Cookbook\u003c/a> by Gloria Bley Miller (1984). Tucked inside the front cover was a soy sauce-spattered sheaf of printed recipes from Uncle Tai's, my parents' favorite Hunan restaurant, a fancy place in midtown with ice-blue wallpaper, tuxedo'd captains, and fantastic hacked chicken, sesame noodles, and lamb with scallions, worlds away from the greasy fried noodles dunked in sticky duck sauce at our local strip-mall Cantonese joints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still find the sight of any of these books--on the shelf of a used bookstore, or in the welcoming, pleasantly decorated kitchens of ladies in their 50s and 60s--incredibly comforting. A glimpse of the Silver Palate Cookbook or \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0688028470/kqedorg-20\">Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen\u003c/a> (1984), buttressed by the twin volumes of Mastering the Art of French Cooking,and I feel like I've come home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother watches Ina Garten's cooking shows now, and collects her bright, enticingly easy Barefoot Contessa cookbooks. I tuck jars of homemade jam into my suitcase when I go to visit her in New York; she stocks up on goat cheese, bagels, salmon, and lamb chops. She's discovered panko crumbs and Prosecco, rainbow chard and pomegranate juice. I sneak downstairs in the morning, to get the coffee going before she gets up. We cook together, and she reminds me again of how, at 15, I threw her out of the kitchen so I could finish whatever I was making my own way. We laugh about this, and she points out my own \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Stephanie-Rosenbaum/e/B001KHWNVQ/ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_3?qid=1304875049&sr=8-3\">three cookbooks\u003c/a>, now on display in the wicker kitchen bookshelf. I tell her I learned everything from her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Writers' Block: Kristin Kimball reads from The Dirty Life",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=49773\">The Writers' Block\u003c/a>: Kristin Kimball reads a passage from \u003cem>The Dirty Life\u003c/em>, her memoir about transitioning from the life of a city girl to that of a farmer. (Running Time: 12:22)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedsingleplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/135339791/KQED_135339791.mp3&kprogram=The%20Writer%27s%20Block&kepisode=The%20Dirty%20Life&kdate=April%2013%2C%202011&klink=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ekqed%2Eorg%2Farts%2Fprograms%2Fwritersblock%2Fepisode%2Ejsp%3Fessid%3D49773\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedsingleplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/135339791/KQED_135339791.mp3&kprogram=The%20Writer%27s%20Block&kepisode=The%20Dirty%20Life&kdate=April%2013%2C%202011&klink=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ekqed%2Eorg%2Farts%2Fprograms%2Fwritersblock%2Fepisode%2Ejsp%3Fessid%3D49773\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kristinkimball.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/thedirtylife200.jpg\" alt=\"The Dirty Life\" title=\"The Dirty Life\" width=\"200\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-26274\">\u003c/a>Single, thirtysomething, working as a writer in New York City, Kristin Kimball was living life as an adventure. But she was beginning to feel a sense of longing for a family and for home. When she interviewed a dynamic young farmer, her world changed. Kristin knew nothing about growing vegetables, let alone raising pigs and cattle and driving horses. But on an impulse, smitten, if not yet in love, she shed her city self and moved to five hundred acres near Lake Champlain to start a new farm with him. \u003cem>The Dirty Life\u003c/em> is the captivating chronicle of their first year on Essex Farm, from the cold North Country winter through the following harvest season--complete with their wedding in the loft of the barn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kimball and her husband had a plan:\u003c/strong> to grow everything needed to feed a community. It was an ambitious idea, a bit romantic, and it worked. Every Friday evening, all year round, a hundred people travel to Essex Farm to pick up their weekly share of the \"whole diet\" -- beef, pork, chicken, milk, eggs, maple syrup, grains, flours, dried beans, herbs, fruits, and forty different vegetables -- produced by the farm. The work is done by draft horses instead of tractors, and the fertility comes from compost. Kimball's vivid descriptions of landscape, food, cooking -- and marriage -- are irresistible.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/literature/article.jsp?essid=49725\">Kristin Kimball\u003c/a> is a farmer and a writer living in northern New York. Prior to farming, Kimball worked as a freelance writer, writing teacher, and as an assistant to a literary agent in New York City. A graduate of Harvard University, she and her husband Mark have run Essex Farm since 2003, where they live with their two daughters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe title=\"YouTube video player\" width=\"500\" height=\"311\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/dIC91qwULXI\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/literature/article.jsp?essid=49725\">Read a Q+A with Kristin Kimball\u003c/a> at KQED Arts by Emmanuel Hapsis\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kristinkimball.com/\">Kristin Kimball's official site\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Facebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/TheDirtyLife\">The Dirty Life\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Twitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/search/users/Kristin%20Kimball\">@k_kimball\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1416551611/kqedorg-20\">Purchase The Dirty Life\u003c/a> (at amazon.com)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Kristin Kimball, author of \u003cem>The Dirty Life: On Farming, Food, and Love\u003c/em> reads an excerpt from her book on The Writers' Block. You can also read an interview with Kimball at KQED Arts. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=49773\">The Writers' Block\u003c/a>: Kristin Kimball reads a passage from \u003cem>The Dirty Life\u003c/em>, her memoir about transitioning from the life of a city girl to that of a farmer. (Running Time: 12:22)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedsingleplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/135339791/KQED_135339791.mp3&kprogram=The%20Writer%27s%20Block&kepisode=The%20Dirty%20Life&kdate=April%2013%2C%202011&klink=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ekqed%2Eorg%2Farts%2Fprograms%2Fwritersblock%2Fepisode%2Ejsp%3Fessid%3D49773\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedsingleplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://podcastdownload.npr.org/anon.npr-podcasts/podcast/151/510076/135339791/KQED_135339791.mp3&kprogram=The%20Writer%27s%20Block&kepisode=The%20Dirty%20Life&kdate=April%2013%2C%202011&klink=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ekqed%2Eorg%2Farts%2Fprograms%2Fwritersblock%2Fepisode%2Ejsp%3Fessid%3D49773\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kristinkimball.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/04/thedirtylife200.jpg\" alt=\"The Dirty Life\" title=\"The Dirty Life\" width=\"200\" height=\"309\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-26274\">\u003c/a>Single, thirtysomething, working as a writer in New York City, Kristin Kimball was living life as an adventure. But she was beginning to feel a sense of longing for a family and for home. When she interviewed a dynamic young farmer, her world changed. Kristin knew nothing about growing vegetables, let alone raising pigs and cattle and driving horses. But on an impulse, smitten, if not yet in love, she shed her city self and moved to five hundred acres near Lake Champlain to start a new farm with him. \u003cem>The Dirty Life\u003c/em> is the captivating chronicle of their first year on Essex Farm, from the cold North Country winter through the following harvest season--complete with their wedding in the loft of the barn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kimball and her husband had a plan:\u003c/strong> to grow everything needed to feed a community. It was an ambitious idea, a bit romantic, and it worked. Every Friday evening, all year round, a hundred people travel to Essex Farm to pick up their weekly share of the \"whole diet\" -- beef, pork, chicken, milk, eggs, maple syrup, grains, flours, dried beans, herbs, fruits, and forty different vegetables -- produced by the farm. The work is done by draft horses instead of tractors, and the fertility comes from compost. Kimball's vivid descriptions of landscape, food, cooking -- and marriage -- are irresistible.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/literature/article.jsp?essid=49725\">Kristin Kimball\u003c/a> is a farmer and a writer living in northern New York. Prior to farming, Kimball worked as a freelance writer, writing teacher, and as an assistant to a literary agent in New York City. A graduate of Harvard University, she and her husband Mark have run Essex Farm since 2003, where they live with their two daughters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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