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"content": "\u003cp>As billions of people around the world face \u003ca href=\"https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2020/04/coronavirus-world-staying-home-200406122943899.html\">stay-at-home orders\u003c/a> because of COVID-19, family dinners — and breakfasts and lunches — are resurgent. 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His new cookbook, \u003cem>See You on Sunday\u003c/em>, was inspired by the idea that regularly gathering and feeding friends and family is psychologically and spiritually nourishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're gathering for the purpose of sustenance, for the purpose of an almost literal communion,\" he says. \"If you do that regularly enough, you'll see a change in your relationship to both the cooking and the people — and perhaps see a change in yourself and how you regard the world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sifton emphasizes that now is not the time for dinner parties. Instead, he's staying home, enjoying meals with his own nuclear family — and fantasizing about the other side of the pandemic, when he can safely host a big Sunday dinner. His ideal post-coronavirus feast? A giant pot of steamed clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone crowded together around it when it's done, shoulders touching and people reaching over one another to get at the drawn butter and tearing off pieces of bread to dip into the broth,\" he says. \"That's gonna be joyous when that happens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview highlights \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how people are cooking both adventurously and pragmatically during the pandemic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may be a time to be more adventurous. It's also, conversely, a time to be simple. At \u003cem>The New York Times \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/\">\u003cem>NYT Cooking\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (our recipe site and app), we're seeing that play out in real time in what people are searching for and what people are asking us about. You see people, on the one hand, trying to perfect their sourdough bread-making skills, and on the other asking for what the simplest, easiest way to get a can of beans on the table to feed the family is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I think that's kind of neat, actually, that we can hold these two things in our minds at once. These projects that we'll try and execute over the course of hours and days and then also: How am I going to do this fast and quick and cheap and with what's available? And I hope we can deliver answers to both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On improvising with limited pantry items \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it depends what's in the pantry. ... I'm not like a lot of my colleagues [who] are a true chef. I'm a pretty good cook and I can follow any recipe you throw at me. I could work for a chef, but I can't kind of close my eyes and conjure up amazing combinations and flavors as someone like [food columnist] \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/ourcooks/melissa-clark/my-recipes\">Melissa Clark\u003c/a> can do for \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Instead, I rely on these jarred magical potions — which range from peanut butter, to pickled chilies, to soy sauce, to maple syrup — to deliver notes of flavor on top of whatever plain-Jane things happen to be in the bottom of the refrigerator crisper. ... And sometimes it doesn't work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On being open to substitutions \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that many people — me included — write recipes, because if you follow them, you will get the result that I got and that I want you to get. But if you substitute along the way, you may end up with something that you like — and that's even better. We joke about this a lot at \u003cem>The Times\u003c/em> ... about people who say, \"I tried the chicken, but I didn't have chicken, so I used sardines, and this is a terrible recipe.\" Your mileage may vary. But using the spices that you have or the flavors that you have on hand is more than perfectly all right. It's welcome. It's what we ought to do. It's in the nature of cooking often and being confident about what it is you're doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the versatility of tinned fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm loving the tinned fish right now. There's so many different things that you can do with those critters. If they're anchovies, I would use them like a condiment. They add this kind of salty \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15819485\">umami \u003c/a>pop to everything. I like sardines on crackers with a little mayonnaise and a little hot sauce. ... With tuna, there's so much you can do, particularly if the tuna is of good quality, then it can kind of stand on its own. If it's not, if it's just supermarket canned tuna, it's still pretty great. You mix it into a tuna salad with a little mayo, maybe with some curry powder if you have some going, a curried tuna salad is really terrific. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I find those canned fishes of all varieties to be hugely helpful in the manner of bringing variety to your diet and also a lot of good taste. I bet you, if you look deep enough, there may be a can of minced clams in the back [of the cupboard], and add that to a tomato sauce and spaghetti dinner is all the better this time for that addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On shopping infrequently because of the virus, and looking for ingredients that stretch \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that we should be getting out to shop as little as possible. I think social distancing means ... that we shouldn't all be crowding into the store every night as if we were living in an imaginary Paris to pick up our daily baguette and a couple of duck legs for dinner. Life isn't like that right now. I try to go as infrequently as possible to the market to stock up, and when I do, I try not to shop like a panicky person. But I do want meals that stretch. If I can find a pork shoulder that can become four meals over the course of a week, well, that's great. If I can land starches and grains to put next to those various pork dishes, I'm happy. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're cooking with a lot of cabbage right now. I think that's because I like cabbage for its ability to be many things, including once you get rid of those outer leaves ... you've got all that tender, fresh, clean, perfect cabbage flesh inside that makes a beautiful, crunchy, raw deliciousness thing on your plate at a time when sometimes fresh vegetables are few and far between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how the pandemic has impacted the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our reporters are laser-focused right now on this issue, and they came back to the paper with a report ... that suggested that it would not be insane to think that 70% of independent restaurants in the United States could be \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/20/dining/local-restaurants-coronavirus.html\">closed by the coronavirus pandemic\u003c/a>. And that's a staggering number. The size of the restaurant industry in the United States — the restaurant industry outside of the fast food industry — is gigantic. And it has ripple effects across the country with small farms, with larger farms, with fishermen, with wine salesmen, with all manner of related businesses that are going to suffer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had a story that spoke ... with a woman whose business is providing flowers for restaurants. That's gone. You think of the laundry services — gone. It's really scary. ... If a restaurant can't make payroll, it can't make rent. How long can they stay socially isolated and return in the same form? Everything is gonna be different on the other side of this — everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the importance of communal eating — even if it's just at home with your family\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wrote a book saying invite as many people [as you can], and you can always welcome the stranger. I believe that passionately. But that's not something that we can do right now. But I warrant that my argument holds true for those of us who are stuck at home right now: that it's not always easy to put that meal on the table at night these days, because it happens every single night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's something about the repetition. There is something about the practice of doing it that I think is going to bring a measure of something good to those who can see it for what it is: which is an act of giving to others — that the making of the food is important, because you are serving others, even if the person you are serving is super annoying right now because you've been living with them for four weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sam Briger and Mooj Zadie produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the Web.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 Fresh Air. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Cooking+During+COVID-19%3A+Family+Meals+And+Fantasies+Of+Future+Dinner+Parties&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Food writer Sam Sifton says the resurgence of family meals is one of the \"precious few good things\" to come of the pandemic. He says his family is eating a lot of tinned fish and cabbage these days.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>As billions of people around the world face \u003ca href=\"https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2020/04/coronavirus-world-staying-home-200406122943899.html\">stay-at-home orders\u003c/a> because of COVID-19, family dinners — and breakfasts and lunches — are resurgent. Former \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> food editor Sam Sifton calls the shift to family meals one of the \"precious few good things\" happening as a result of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of us are really experiencing the joys of eating together with family regularly,\" he says. \"For me, it's been kind of joyful amid all the sorrow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136806\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136806\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday.jpg\" alt='\"See You on Sunday A Cookbook for Family and Friends\" by Sam Sifton, David Malosh and Simon Andrews.' width=\"300\" height=\"369\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday.jpg 300w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/04/SeeYouSunday-160x197.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"See You on Sunday A Cookbook for Family and Friends\" by Sam Sifton, David Malosh and Simon Andrews.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sifton was recently promoted to be \u003cem>The Times'\u003c/em> assistant managing editor, overseeing its culture and lifestyle coverage, but he \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/by/sam-sifton\">continues to write\u003c/a> about food and its role in helping people cope with the isolation of the pandemic. His new cookbook, \u003cem>See You on Sunday\u003c/em>, was inspired by the idea that regularly gathering and feeding friends and family is psychologically and spiritually nourishing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're gathering for the purpose of sustenance, for the purpose of an almost literal communion,\" he says. \"If you do that regularly enough, you'll see a change in your relationship to both the cooking and the people — and perhaps see a change in yourself and how you regard the world.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sifton emphasizes that now is not the time for dinner parties. Instead, he's staying home, enjoying meals with his own nuclear family — and fantasizing about the other side of the pandemic, when he can safely host a big Sunday dinner. His ideal post-coronavirus feast? A giant pot of steamed clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone crowded together around it when it's done, shoulders touching and people reaching over one another to get at the drawn butter and tearing off pieces of bread to dip into the broth,\" he says. \"That's gonna be joyous when that happens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview highlights \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how people are cooking both adventurously and pragmatically during the pandemic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may be a time to be more adventurous. It's also, conversely, a time to be simple. At \u003cem>The New York Times \u003c/em>and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/\">\u003cem>NYT Cooking\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (our recipe site and app), we're seeing that play out in real time in what people are searching for and what people are asking us about. You see people, on the one hand, trying to perfect their sourdough bread-making skills, and on the other asking for what the simplest, easiest way to get a can of beans on the table to feed the family is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I think that's kind of neat, actually, that we can hold these two things in our minds at once. These projects that we'll try and execute over the course of hours and days and then also: How am I going to do this fast and quick and cheap and with what's available? And I hope we can deliver answers to both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On improvising with limited pantry items \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think it depends what's in the pantry. ... I'm not like a lot of my colleagues [who] are a true chef. I'm a pretty good cook and I can follow any recipe you throw at me. I could work for a chef, but I can't kind of close my eyes and conjure up amazing combinations and flavors as someone like [food columnist] \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/ourcooks/melissa-clark/my-recipes\">Melissa Clark\u003c/a> can do for \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Instead, I rely on these jarred magical potions — which range from peanut butter, to pickled chilies, to soy sauce, to maple syrup — to deliver notes of flavor on top of whatever plain-Jane things happen to be in the bottom of the refrigerator crisper. ... And sometimes it doesn't work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On being open to substitutions \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that many people — me included — write recipes, because if you follow them, you will get the result that I got and that I want you to get. But if you substitute along the way, you may end up with something that you like — and that's even better. We joke about this a lot at \u003cem>The Times\u003c/em> ... about people who say, \"I tried the chicken, but I didn't have chicken, so I used sardines, and this is a terrible recipe.\" Your mileage may vary. But using the spices that you have or the flavors that you have on hand is more than perfectly all right. It's welcome. It's what we ought to do. It's in the nature of cooking often and being confident about what it is you're doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the versatility of tinned fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm loving the tinned fish right now. There's so many different things that you can do with those critters. If they're anchovies, I would use them like a condiment. They add this kind of salty \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15819485\">umami \u003c/a>pop to everything. I like sardines on crackers with a little mayonnaise and a little hot sauce. ... With tuna, there's so much you can do, particularly if the tuna is of good quality, then it can kind of stand on its own. If it's not, if it's just supermarket canned tuna, it's still pretty great. You mix it into a tuna salad with a little mayo, maybe with some curry powder if you have some going, a curried tuna salad is really terrific. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I find those canned fishes of all varieties to be hugely helpful in the manner of bringing variety to your diet and also a lot of good taste. I bet you, if you look deep enough, there may be a can of minced clams in the back [of the cupboard], and add that to a tomato sauce and spaghetti dinner is all the better this time for that addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On shopping infrequently because of the virus, and looking for ingredients that stretch \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think that we should be getting out to shop as little as possible. I think social distancing means ... that we shouldn't all be crowding into the store every night as if we were living in an imaginary Paris to pick up our daily baguette and a couple of duck legs for dinner. Life isn't like that right now. I try to go as infrequently as possible to the market to stock up, and when I do, I try not to shop like a panicky person. But I do want meals that stretch. If I can find a pork shoulder that can become four meals over the course of a week, well, that's great. If I can land starches and grains to put next to those various pork dishes, I'm happy. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're cooking with a lot of cabbage right now. I think that's because I like cabbage for its ability to be many things, including once you get rid of those outer leaves ... you've got all that tender, fresh, clean, perfect cabbage flesh inside that makes a beautiful, crunchy, raw deliciousness thing on your plate at a time when sometimes fresh vegetables are few and far between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how the pandemic has impacted the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our reporters are laser-focused right now on this issue, and they came back to the paper with a report ... that suggested that it would not be insane to think that 70% of independent restaurants in the United States could be \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/20/dining/local-restaurants-coronavirus.html\">closed by the coronavirus pandemic\u003c/a>. And that's a staggering number. The size of the restaurant industry in the United States — the restaurant industry outside of the fast food industry — is gigantic. And it has ripple effects across the country with small farms, with larger farms, with fishermen, with wine salesmen, with all manner of related businesses that are going to suffer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had a story that spoke ... with a woman whose business is providing flowers for restaurants. That's gone. You think of the laundry services — gone. It's really scary. ... If a restaurant can't make payroll, it can't make rent. How long can they stay socially isolated and return in the same form? Everything is gonna be different on the other side of this — everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the importance of communal eating — even if it's just at home with your family\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wrote a book saying invite as many people [as you can], and you can always welcome the stranger. I believe that passionately. But that's not something that we can do right now. But I warrant that my argument holds true for those of us who are stuck at home right now: that it's not always easy to put that meal on the table at night these days, because it happens every single night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's something about the repetition. There is something about the practice of doing it that I think is going to bring a measure of something good to those who can see it for what it is: which is an act of giving to others — that the making of the food is important, because you are serving others, even if the person you are serving is super annoying right now because you've been living with them for four weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sam Briger and Mooj Zadie produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the Web.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 Fresh Air. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Cooking+During+COVID-19%3A+Family+Meals+And+Fantasies+Of+Future+Dinner+Parties&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'",
"title": "Veganism Isn’t Restrictive in Bryant Terry’s Abundant 'Vegetable Kingdom'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_136250' hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/bunsbeansbroccoli.jpeg' 'label='Cook up chef Bryant Terry's Beans and Broccoli sandwich for dinner this week']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetables reign supreme in Bryant Terry’s world. In his new cookbook, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/564101/vegetable-kingdom-by-bryant-terry/9780399581045/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the James Beard Award-winning chef and author presents a collection of 150 recipes in which vegetables are the unabashed stars of the table, not the paltry side dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry’s latest cookbook comes six years after his critically acclaimed \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afro-Vegan: Farm-Fresh African, Caribbean, and Southern Flavors Remixed\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “I very intentionally pulled back from book writing and overburdening myself with projects because I wanted to be as present as possible with my children,” explains the father of two. In the introduction to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, Terry writes that his daughters, ages five and eight, inspired the book and were among his dishes' first tasters. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“One of the litmus tests for the recipes was if they liked it,” he says. “Kids are brutally honest.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The world of vegetables can be intimidatingly vast, yet Terry’s book lays it out in an accessible way alongside his takes on marinades, sauces and spice blends influenced by American Southern, Caribbean, sub-Saharan African and Asian cuisines. Terry credits his daughter’s gardening class for the approachable architecture of the book, which categorizes recipes by which part of the plant the central ingredient comes from. Starting with seeds such as beans and corns, recipes grow into bulbs (fennel, leeks and the like), then into stems (asparagus and such), flowers (broccoli and its floreted cousins), fruits (squashes and peppers), leaves (greens of every kind) and back down to fungus, tubers and roots. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136245\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136245\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg\" alt=\"Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"995\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-800x995.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-160x199.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-768x955.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV-1020x1268.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Vegetable-Kingdom-COV.jpg 1544w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry's latest cookbook dives deep into the world of vegetables with more than 150 vegan recipes. \u003ccite>(Ed Anderson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“When I was composing the recipes, I was mindful of the fact that there’ll be a diversity of readers,” he says noting that his audience has varying degrees of comfort in the kitchen. To that end, he’s included a couple of beginner-level recipes in each section. (“If you could boil a pot of water, you can make this recipe,” he says.) These are interspersed with more elaborate meals fit for dinner parties and leisurely, late weekend lunches. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Terry continues his tradition of marrying music and food in his newest book by pairing recipes with a playlist of songs—Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bFr2SWP1I\">Over the Rainbow\u003c/a>” for roasted Okinawan sweet potatoes, “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_W14wK4QGh4\">Stay Flo\u003c/a>” from Solange for a mashed kabocha spread and “\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TsYIQv0sX8\">Big Rings\u003c/a>” from Drake and Future for a beans, buns and broccoli recipe.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up in Memphis and visiting his family’s farms in nearby Mississippi, Terry’s love of vegetables is decades deep. “As a child, I was fully immersed in the vegetable kingdom because my family has agrarian roots,” he says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“They brought with them the values and traditions and [a] true understanding of the importance of growing one’s own food,” he adds, reminiscing about the urban garden that occupied much of the yard of his childhood home. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Watching his grandfather not just grow food, but prepare it to feed his family, was also a transformative experience that’s stayed with Terry. In raising his own children, the vegan chef and his non-vegan wife try their best to model similarly healthy behaviors. “I don’t eat animal products and my wife does eat some animal products. It’s always been this negotiation and we met somewhere in the middle,” he says adding that his children have dairy and eggs once in a while. “When parents try to force something on kids or be dogmatic, it can often push them away and go in the opposite direction so I’ve been mindful of that.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though there’s plenty of age-appropriate lessons about the benefits of eating local, vegetable-centric and organic food, Terry is certain lasting lessons start with what's on the plate: “What resonates with everyone is delicious food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Catch Bryant Terry at \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events/2020/2/15/vegetable-kingdom-national-book-release-party\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">his book release party\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> this Saturday, Feb. 15 at Red Bay Coffee in Oakland, and at various other \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bryant-terry.com/events\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">book events\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> for \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegetable Kingdom\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in the coming weeks. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack",
"title": "The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134687,bayareabites_133932' target=_ label='More Food History']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year marks 300 years since the publication of Daniel Defoe's blockbuster novel \u003cem>Robinson Crusoe. \u003c/em>And while its hero is rightly hailed as fiction's most famous castaway, he can just as equally stake his claim to another — more culinary — title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robinson Crusoe: patron saint of the kitchen hack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the man who grew, ground and baked his own organic, artisanal bread from scratch — with nary a Kitchenaid mixer in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age when we are drowning in kitchen gizmos — whether it's a waterwheel-shaped device to cube a watermelon or a pint-sized mill to mince your herbs or a steel pot with buttons that promises Michelin magic — it's inspiring to recall the Herculean story of Crusoe's bread making and celebrate the kind of ingenuity it embodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shipwrecked on a deserted island, Crusoe has no plow, no scythe, no threshing floor, no mill, no sieve, no oven. No problem. Driven by desperation, he comes up with tools and methods to turn his precious store of corn into freshly baked loaves: a bough of a tree is his harrow and a cutlass his scythe; he uses his bare hands to rub the kernels from the ears for want of a threshing floor; a mortar and pestle scooped from tree wood serve as a mill; calico and muslin neckcloths retrieved from his ship sift the coarse meal; and as for an oven — that seemingly insurmountable hurdle — rough clay pans handcrafted by him work just fine. This is jerry-riggery at its finest, and results in what to him is the most delicious loaf of bread in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1838px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg\" alt=\"Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available.\" width=\"1838\" height=\"2451\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg 1838w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1838px) 100vw, 1838px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available. \u003ccite>(Buyenlarge/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Crusoe spirit is hardly unique. Throughout history, cooks across cultures have invented ways to overcome a lack of conventional cooking tools. This is especially true in conditions of war, captivity, scarcity – and student housing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America may be the cradle of the pointless gizmo but it is also the land, as food historian Frederick Opie reminds us, of the hoe cake — those crisp discs of cornbread supposedly named after the blade of the hoe on which they were baked by enslaved men and women forced to work the cotton fields of the South. \"They simply cleaned off their hoes, poured batter on it and baked their bread,\" says Opie. \"They were also known to use clam and oyster shells as knives; they sharpened them and used them to cut and grate vegetables.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vessels were scarce, but the humble gourd proved wonderfully versatile. In his memoir \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/45631/45631-h/45631-h.htm\">\u003cem>Twelve Years a Slave\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Solomon Northup sings its praise for dispensing \"with the necessity of pails, dippers, basins, and such tin and wooden superfluities altogether.\" During WWI, the Salvation Army women sent to France as part of the war effort \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/07/189514005/on-national-doughnut-day-free-food-and-feel-good-history\">churned out thousands of donuts for the GIs\u003c/a>, initially using shell casings for rolling pins and helmets filled with lard to fry braided crullers. They were a sensation with the soldiers, who dubbed them the \"Donut Lassies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spirit of innovation was recently saluted by food critic Ruth Reichl in a piece for \u003cem>Real Simple \u003c/em>magazine, where she called out the Great American Kitchen, with its \"battery of arcane appliances,\" as something of a hoax. (\"Utter nonsense\" was how she politely put it.) Reichl joyously recalled how she and her husband made do when they were young and penniless: a bottle of cheap wine was used to roll out pastry and — charmingly — discarded ceramic flower pots were called into service to bake cakes and bread. Theirs was a small, dishwasher-free kitchen with scavenged pallets for counters, but one full of music and happiness, hungry friends and good meals. \"I'm convinced I invented the microplane,\" Reichl jokes. \"When I needed to grate Parmesan, I riffled through my husband's tool box and borrowed his rasp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern cooking legend Edna Lewis would have smiled in approval. Ingenuity and thrift were values she was raised on, growing up as she did during the Depression on a farm in Freetown, Va., a town established by emancipated slaves. When she died in 2006, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/14/us/edna-lewis-89-dies-wrote-cookbooks-that-revived-refined-southern-cuisine.html\">New York Times obituary\u003c/a> noted, \"Without fancy cooking equipment, the family improvised, measuring baking powder on coins.\" Nothing was bought from the store if something at home could do the job. Buying specialized jelly bags (used to strain fruit for jelly-making) was out of the question. \"I always use the washed and bleached-out bags that Virginia hams come in, and you can also use the bags that hold popcorn rice,\" Lewis writes in \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pursuit-Flavor-Edna-Lewis/dp/0525655514/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=in+pursuit+of+flavor&qid=1568319551&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>In Pursuit of Flavor\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Just wash them well and hang them in the sun to dry and bleach.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lewis also described how, even in the summer, meat could be kept cold in a contraption called a \"spring box\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Because we had no electricity, fresh meat was not refrigerated, but we could store it and other perishables for a few days in the spring box, even during the hottest weeks of the summer. The spring box was a covered wooden box set over the run-off stream from the spring. It had holes in both ends so that a tiny trickle of cold, clear spring water passed through it and kept any food stored inside perfectly cold ... My aunt, who had a well for water rather than a spring, would put food in the bucket and keep it cold by lowering it down the well.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"I love the Edna Lewis story about refrigeration,\" says Nashville baker and author Anne Byrn, who has improvised all her life. \"I have used a sharp paring knife to cut slivers of lemon zest when there's no zester on a photo shoot, and I know the visual tests for candy making in case there's no thermometer around,\" she says. \"This has completely frustrated my husband, John, a lover of gadgets, especially because I tossed out his red plastic shrimp deveiner when we were first married. I thought, Who needs this when you've got a sharp paring knife? ... But, I bought him a replacement!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her book \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/American-Cake-Colonial-Gingerbread-Best-Loved/dp/1623365430/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=american+cake&qid=1568319514&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>American Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> Byrn notes that Shaker women used peach twigs to whisk egg whites in the forlorn hope that it would impart a peachy flavor to the meringue. \"The Shakers were truly innovative as well as minimalists,\" she says. \"They cared for nature, and it's no small coincidence that their contribution to cooking has been the lemon pie in which you use the entire lemon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Byrn's forthcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Skillet-Love-Steak-Recipes-Cast-Iron/dp/1538763184\">Skillet Love\u003c/a>, is a tribute to the pan that does everything. \"It's perfect for people who like to improvise and are gadget-weary. It can pound chicken flat into cutlets. And now it is my new go-to pan for baking cakes. A pound cake baked in a cast-iron skillet has a crunchy exterior and the most tender interior crumb. And oh ... while we're talking about baking, cooks used tin cans to stamp out biscuits and cookies. Which is why tin cookie cutters cut the best! \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Empty tins are a hacker's best friend. Ask the renowned chef of Italian food, Lidia Bastianich. \"For baking, I always have four empty tomato cans, cleaned, and I use them to prop up a hot baking sheet coming out of the oven to cool,\" she says. For British chef Jamie Oliver, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/02/chefs-favourite-kitchen-gadgets-equipment\">an empty jam jar\u003c/a> is his gadget \u003cem>du jour\u003c/em>. \"Super-cheap and super-useful, for anything from salad dressings and salsas to storing pulses and spices.\" One more use for the jam jar? It's the hipster's vessel of choice for drinking over-hopped, overpriced craft beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fertile nursery of innovation is the prison. \"I've done recent work with prisoners and have been simply amazed by the things they come up with,\" says Opie, who has a fascinating podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">\u003cem>Joint Genius, Prison Pop Ups and Moonshine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">.\u003c/a> \"In one prison, there is a commissary where inmates can buy a hot pot, something to heat food but not cook or boil in — since boiling water can be used as a weapon. But there are a couple of prisoners who are really clever and they simply rewired those pots and now they use them to cook and boil food. It's amazing. They also use their T-shirts as a sieve to make all kinds of alcoholic beverages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The T-shirt-as-sieve hack recalls Crusoe's neckcloth-as-sieve one. The bottle-as-rolling pin trick, of course, is hardly new, and Reichl will be pleased to know that when Gandhi was imprisoned by the British in 1932 during the Indian freedom struggle, he and his secretary, Mahadev Desai, used a glass bottle to roll out thin rotis (unleavened bread) when the jail warder didn't have a rolling pin handy. Opie calls these innovations \"universal ways of surviving.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If neckcloths, T-shirts, cutlasses and rasps can be pressed into service in the kitchen, kitchen products, too, can be called upon for non-culinary purposes. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebertinetkitchen.com/\">Richard Bertinet\u003c/a> says his scraper is indispensable \"for cleaning the car windscreen in winter,\" while Fergus Henderson gets lyrical about the wooden spoon: \"You can stir food, spank those who need spanking, conduct [an orchestra]. ...\" If one were to rewind all the way back to the Crusades, there is the Englishwoman named Margaret of Beverly, who defended herself in Jerusalem by\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>clapping a saucepan on her head for a helmet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In America, one of the most enduring icons of re-use is the feedsack dress, a fashionable garment that grew out of the hard years of the Depression, when creative rural housewives refashioned \u003ca href=\"https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1105750\">feed sacks\u003c/a> and flour bags to make clothes, curtains, towels and quilts for their families. Frugality aside, creating something beautiful out of ordinary packaging gave these women a sense of pride and joy that helped lighten those bleak years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food magazines and YouTube recognize this spirit and are constantly coming up with useful tips, whether it is using a wine stopper to make thumbprint cookies; a cooling rack to steam veggies; or a shower cap to cover a dish instead of fiddly plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who love hacks, gadgets are simply an impediment. To quote the Scottish poet Kathleen Jamie from another context, they have \"no more need of those implements than a deer has, browsing in a glade.\" The great Elizabeth David's rant against the \u003ca href=\"https://www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk/blog/2017/3/garlic-presses-are-utterly-useless-by-elizabeth-david\">\"utterly useless\" garlic press\u003c/a> — that most divisive of all kitchen gadgets — is now legendary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are other great chefs — Julia Child and James Beard among them — who love gadgets. Beard's joy on first encountering a food processor in Paris — he played a key role in making the Cuisinart processor a commercial success; it was a flop before he and Julia Child championed it — is perfectly understandable. The food processor, like the refrigerator, was life-changing, liberating cooks (mainly women) from the drudgery of chopping and grinding. But Beard also tended to get gulled by the flood of new and improved devices entering the market, and his editor Judith Jones complained bitterly about Corningware installing smooth-as-glass burners in his kitchen, which may have looked svelte but were as \"slow as molasses to heat up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all his love of gadgets, Beard knew that the most intelligent and sensuous tool in the kitchen was the human hand. \"Hands are our earliest tools,\" he said. \"Cooking starts with the hands, which are so sensitive that when they touch something, they transmit messages to your brain about texture and temperature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gadget debate will last forever, but most cooks will raise their glass to the one gadget that's simply indispensable. Poet Wendy Cope captured its profound importance when she wrote:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The day he moved out was terrible --\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> That evening she went through hell.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> His absence wasn't a problem\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> But the corkscrew had gone as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/17/760236914/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What would Robinson Crusoe have done with a watermelon cuber? His spirit of ingenuity lives on in the kitchen, as inventive cooks still think beyond the norm of conventional kitchen tools.",
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"description": "What would Robinson Crusoe have done with a watermelon cuber? His spirit of ingenuity lives on in the kitchen, as inventive cooks still think beyond the norm of conventional kitchen tools.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year marks 300 years since the publication of Daniel Defoe's blockbuster novel \u003cem>Robinson Crusoe. \u003c/em>And while its hero is rightly hailed as fiction's most famous castaway, he can just as equally stake his claim to another — more culinary — title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robinson Crusoe: patron saint of the kitchen hack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the man who grew, ground and baked his own organic, artisanal bread from scratch — with nary a Kitchenaid mixer in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age when we are drowning in kitchen gizmos — whether it's a waterwheel-shaped device to cube a watermelon or a pint-sized mill to mince your herbs or a steel pot with buttons that promises Michelin magic — it's inspiring to recall the Herculean story of Crusoe's bread making and celebrate the kind of ingenuity it embodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shipwrecked on a deserted island, Crusoe has no plow, no scythe, no threshing floor, no mill, no sieve, no oven. No problem. Driven by desperation, he comes up with tools and methods to turn his precious store of corn into freshly baked loaves: a bough of a tree is his harrow and a cutlass his scythe; he uses his bare hands to rub the kernels from the ears for want of a threshing floor; a mortar and pestle scooped from tree wood serve as a mill; calico and muslin neckcloths retrieved from his ship sift the coarse meal; and as for an oven — that seemingly insurmountable hurdle — rough clay pans handcrafted by him work just fine. This is jerry-riggery at its finest, and results in what to him is the most delicious loaf of bread in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1838px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg\" alt=\"Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available.\" width=\"1838\" height=\"2451\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg 1838w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1838px) 100vw, 1838px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available. \u003ccite>(Buyenlarge/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Crusoe spirit is hardly unique. Throughout history, cooks across cultures have invented ways to overcome a lack of conventional cooking tools. This is especially true in conditions of war, captivity, scarcity – and student housing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America may be the cradle of the pointless gizmo but it is also the land, as food historian Frederick Opie reminds us, of the hoe cake — those crisp discs of cornbread supposedly named after the blade of the hoe on which they were baked by enslaved men and women forced to work the cotton fields of the South. \"They simply cleaned off their hoes, poured batter on it and baked their bread,\" says Opie. \"They were also known to use clam and oyster shells as knives; they sharpened them and used them to cut and grate vegetables.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vessels were scarce, but the humble gourd proved wonderfully versatile. In his memoir \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/45631/45631-h/45631-h.htm\">\u003cem>Twelve Years a Slave\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Solomon Northup sings its praise for dispensing \"with the necessity of pails, dippers, basins, and such tin and wooden superfluities altogether.\" During WWI, the Salvation Army women sent to France as part of the war effort \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/07/189514005/on-national-doughnut-day-free-food-and-feel-good-history\">churned out thousands of donuts for the GIs\u003c/a>, initially using shell casings for rolling pins and helmets filled with lard to fry braided crullers. They were a sensation with the soldiers, who dubbed them the \"Donut Lassies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spirit of innovation was recently saluted by food critic Ruth Reichl in a piece for \u003cem>Real Simple \u003c/em>magazine, where she called out the Great American Kitchen, with its \"battery of arcane appliances,\" as something of a hoax. (\"Utter nonsense\" was how she politely put it.) Reichl joyously recalled how she and her husband made do when they were young and penniless: a bottle of cheap wine was used to roll out pastry and — charmingly — discarded ceramic flower pots were called into service to bake cakes and bread. Theirs was a small, dishwasher-free kitchen with scavenged pallets for counters, but one full of music and happiness, hungry friends and good meals. \"I'm convinced I invented the microplane,\" Reichl jokes. \"When I needed to grate Parmesan, I riffled through my husband's tool box and borrowed his rasp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern cooking legend Edna Lewis would have smiled in approval. Ingenuity and thrift were values she was raised on, growing up as she did during the Depression on a farm in Freetown, Va., a town established by emancipated slaves. When she died in 2006, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/14/us/edna-lewis-89-dies-wrote-cookbooks-that-revived-refined-southern-cuisine.html\">New York Times obituary\u003c/a> noted, \"Without fancy cooking equipment, the family improvised, measuring baking powder on coins.\" Nothing was bought from the store if something at home could do the job. Buying specialized jelly bags (used to strain fruit for jelly-making) was out of the question. \"I always use the washed and bleached-out bags that Virginia hams come in, and you can also use the bags that hold popcorn rice,\" Lewis writes in \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pursuit-Flavor-Edna-Lewis/dp/0525655514/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=in+pursuit+of+flavor&qid=1568319551&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>In Pursuit of Flavor\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Just wash them well and hang them in the sun to dry and bleach.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lewis also described how, even in the summer, meat could be kept cold in a contraption called a \"spring box\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Because we had no electricity, fresh meat was not refrigerated, but we could store it and other perishables for a few days in the spring box, even during the hottest weeks of the summer. The spring box was a covered wooden box set over the run-off stream from the spring. It had holes in both ends so that a tiny trickle of cold, clear spring water passed through it and kept any food stored inside perfectly cold ... My aunt, who had a well for water rather than a spring, would put food in the bucket and keep it cold by lowering it down the well.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"I love the Edna Lewis story about refrigeration,\" says Nashville baker and author Anne Byrn, who has improvised all her life. \"I have used a sharp paring knife to cut slivers of lemon zest when there's no zester on a photo shoot, and I know the visual tests for candy making in case there's no thermometer around,\" she says. \"This has completely frustrated my husband, John, a lover of gadgets, especially because I tossed out his red plastic shrimp deveiner when we were first married. I thought, Who needs this when you've got a sharp paring knife? ... But, I bought him a replacement!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her book \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/American-Cake-Colonial-Gingerbread-Best-Loved/dp/1623365430/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=american+cake&qid=1568319514&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>American Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> Byrn notes that Shaker women used peach twigs to whisk egg whites in the forlorn hope that it would impart a peachy flavor to the meringue. \"The Shakers were truly innovative as well as minimalists,\" she says. \"They cared for nature, and it's no small coincidence that their contribution to cooking has been the lemon pie in which you use the entire lemon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Byrn's forthcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Skillet-Love-Steak-Recipes-Cast-Iron/dp/1538763184\">Skillet Love\u003c/a>, is a tribute to the pan that does everything. \"It's perfect for people who like to improvise and are gadget-weary. It can pound chicken flat into cutlets. And now it is my new go-to pan for baking cakes. A pound cake baked in a cast-iron skillet has a crunchy exterior and the most tender interior crumb. And oh ... while we're talking about baking, cooks used tin cans to stamp out biscuits and cookies. Which is why tin cookie cutters cut the best! \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Empty tins are a hacker's best friend. Ask the renowned chef of Italian food, Lidia Bastianich. \"For baking, I always have four empty tomato cans, cleaned, and I use them to prop up a hot baking sheet coming out of the oven to cool,\" she says. For British chef Jamie Oliver, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/02/chefs-favourite-kitchen-gadgets-equipment\">an empty jam jar\u003c/a> is his gadget \u003cem>du jour\u003c/em>. \"Super-cheap and super-useful, for anything from salad dressings and salsas to storing pulses and spices.\" One more use for the jam jar? It's the hipster's vessel of choice for drinking over-hopped, overpriced craft beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fertile nursery of innovation is the prison. \"I've done recent work with prisoners and have been simply amazed by the things they come up with,\" says Opie, who has a fascinating podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">\u003cem>Joint Genius, Prison Pop Ups and Moonshine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">.\u003c/a> \"In one prison, there is a commissary where inmates can buy a hot pot, something to heat food but not cook or boil in — since boiling water can be used as a weapon. But there are a couple of prisoners who are really clever and they simply rewired those pots and now they use them to cook and boil food. It's amazing. They also use their T-shirts as a sieve to make all kinds of alcoholic beverages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The T-shirt-as-sieve hack recalls Crusoe's neckcloth-as-sieve one. The bottle-as-rolling pin trick, of course, is hardly new, and Reichl will be pleased to know that when Gandhi was imprisoned by the British in 1932 during the Indian freedom struggle, he and his secretary, Mahadev Desai, used a glass bottle to roll out thin rotis (unleavened bread) when the jail warder didn't have a rolling pin handy. Opie calls these innovations \"universal ways of surviving.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If neckcloths, T-shirts, cutlasses and rasps can be pressed into service in the kitchen, kitchen products, too, can be called upon for non-culinary purposes. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebertinetkitchen.com/\">Richard Bertinet\u003c/a> says his scraper is indispensable \"for cleaning the car windscreen in winter,\" while Fergus Henderson gets lyrical about the wooden spoon: \"You can stir food, spank those who need spanking, conduct [an orchestra]. ...\" If one were to rewind all the way back to the Crusades, there is the Englishwoman named Margaret of Beverly, who defended herself in Jerusalem by\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>clapping a saucepan on her head for a helmet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In America, one of the most enduring icons of re-use is the feedsack dress, a fashionable garment that grew out of the hard years of the Depression, when creative rural housewives refashioned \u003ca href=\"https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1105750\">feed sacks\u003c/a> and flour bags to make clothes, curtains, towels and quilts for their families. Frugality aside, creating something beautiful out of ordinary packaging gave these women a sense of pride and joy that helped lighten those bleak years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food magazines and YouTube recognize this spirit and are constantly coming up with useful tips, whether it is using a wine stopper to make thumbprint cookies; a cooling rack to steam veggies; or a shower cap to cover a dish instead of fiddly plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who love hacks, gadgets are simply an impediment. To quote the Scottish poet Kathleen Jamie from another context, they have \"no more need of those implements than a deer has, browsing in a glade.\" The great Elizabeth David's rant against the \u003ca href=\"https://www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk/blog/2017/3/garlic-presses-are-utterly-useless-by-elizabeth-david\">\"utterly useless\" garlic press\u003c/a> — that most divisive of all kitchen gadgets — is now legendary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are other great chefs — Julia Child and James Beard among them — who love gadgets. Beard's joy on first encountering a food processor in Paris — he played a key role in making the Cuisinart processor a commercial success; it was a flop before he and Julia Child championed it — is perfectly understandable. The food processor, like the refrigerator, was life-changing, liberating cooks (mainly women) from the drudgery of chopping and grinding. But Beard also tended to get gulled by the flood of new and improved devices entering the market, and his editor Judith Jones complained bitterly about Corningware installing smooth-as-glass burners in his kitchen, which may have looked svelte but were as \"slow as molasses to heat up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all his love of gadgets, Beard knew that the most intelligent and sensuous tool in the kitchen was the human hand. \"Hands are our earliest tools,\" he said. \"Cooking starts with the hands, which are so sensitive that when they touch something, they transmit messages to your brain about texture and temperature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gadget debate will last forever, but most cooks will raise their glass to the one gadget that's simply indispensable. Poet Wendy Cope captured its profound importance when she wrote:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The day he moved out was terrible --\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> That evening she went through hell.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> His absence wasn't a problem\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> But the corkscrew had gone as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Great American Read: Decadent Desserts Paired With Nostalgic Novels",
"title": "The Great American Read: Decadent Desserts Paired With Nostalgic Novels",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>100 contestants, 1 winner...no, this isn’t American Idol, this is \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/home/\">The Great American Read\u003c/a>! This year’s list of competitors is filled with classics and some fun newcomers, but you can’t read all 100 books on an empty stomach, right? It’s always fun imagining what the foods the characters are eating are like in real life, so we rounded up some of our favorite recipes tied to five books on The Great American Read list. We can’t offer up magical treats like Every Flavour Beans (Harry Potter) or Elven bread (Lord of the Rings), but the following sweet treats are pretty darn delicious and guaranteed to satisfy any munchies you have while getting through your novel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128191\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids.jpg\" alt=\"The Handmaid’s Tale and Strawberry Meyer Lemon Coffeecake.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128191\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Handmaid’s Tale and Strawberry Meyer Lemon Coffeecake. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/107930/easter-brunch-strawberry-meyer-lemon-coffeecake\">Strawberry Meyer Lemon Coffeecake\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>“Blessed be the fruit.”\u003c/em> Thanks to this \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Handmaid's%20Tale%2C%20The\">\u003cem>The Handsmaid’s Tale\u003c/em>\u003c/a> greeting we can’t really look at fruit these days without a little shudder, but it doesn’t mean we should avoid eating the tasty little things! The novel takes place in a bleak world where the comforts we take for granted now like delicious foods or walking around in shorts is looked down on. That’s why we’re flipping the switch on this sad story by giving you a decadent fruit recipe to give you a little comfort while reading about Ofred’s sad plight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128193\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander.jpg\" alt=\"Outlander and Lemony Shortbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128193\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outlander and Lemony Shortbread. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/123208/christmas-cookies-lemony-shortbread\">Lemony Shortbread\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>We can’t provide attractive young men running around in kilts, but we can give you a tasty, easy-to-make-at-home shortbread recipe to eat while reading about said men in \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Outlander%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Outlander\u003c/em>\u003c/a>! Shortbread has been around since the 1800s and is a big deal in Scotland. It’s pretty simple to make, but our version is as sweet as Jamie and Claire’s romance with a little lemon to give it a kick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128189\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades.jpg\" alt=\"Fifty Shades of Grey and Multigrain Pancakes with Rhubarb-Orange Compote and Greek Yogurt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128189\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fifty Shades of Grey and Multigrain Pancakes with Rhubarb-Orange Compote and Greek Yogurt. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/95251/mothers-day-brunch-recipe-multigrain-pancakes-with-rhubarb-orange-compote-and-greek-yogurt\">Multigrain Pancakes with Rhubarb-Orange Compote and Greek Yogurt\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In the long, drawn out course of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Fifty%20Shades%20of%20Grey%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Fifty Shades of Grey\u003c/em>\u003c/a> series, breakfast appears enough times that we felt it deserved some time in the spotlight as much as Ana and Christian gets. Sure, we could have given you oysters, chocolates, or really anything that stereotypically would be associated with an erotic novel. But wouldn’t you rather have a great dish you can enjoy while reading \u003cem>50 Shades\u003c/em> or just on your couch watching \u003cem>The Bachelor\u003c/em>? Plus, our pancake recipe is a little ode to their trip to IHOP at the beginning of their “romance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones.jpg\" alt=\"A Game of Thrones and Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128190\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Game of Thrones and Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/105328/new-years-eve-appetizers-mini-meyer-lemon-curd-cupcakes\">Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>When you play the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Game%20of%20Thrones%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Game of Thrones\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, you win or you die...thank god we are all winners when it comes to these Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes. If you didn’t know, Sansa Stark’s favorite snack is little lemon cakes, and you’ll feel like a queen (or king) munching on these decadent little treats while reading about White Walkers, dragons, and intense battles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128192\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter.jpg\" alt=\"Harry Potter and the Sorceror’s Stone and Double Chocolate Brownies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128192\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harry Potter and the Sorceror’s Stone and Double Chocolate Brownies. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/98043/feed-your-chocolate-obsession-with-double-chocolate-brownies\">Double Chocolate Brownies\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In the Wizarding World of \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Harry%20Potter%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Harry Potter\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, chocolate helps Harry and his friends recuperate after facing Dementors. Chocolate might not heal all wounds, but it sometimes can be so delicious that we forget it’s not actually a magical substance. For \u003cem>Harry Potter\u003c/em> fans, the line between fiction and reality when it comes to this tasty sweet is especially thin, and this decadent Double Chocolate Brownies recipe pairs perfectly with the books!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>100 contestants, 1 winner...no, this isn’t American Idol, this is \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/home/\">The Great American Read\u003c/a>! This year’s list of competitors is filled with classics and some fun newcomers, but you can’t read all 100 books on an empty stomach, right? It’s always fun imagining what the foods the characters are eating are like in real life, so we rounded up some of our favorite recipes tied to five books on The Great American Read list. We can’t offer up magical treats like Every Flavour Beans (Harry Potter) or Elven bread (Lord of the Rings), but the following sweet treats are pretty darn delicious and guaranteed to satisfy any munchies you have while getting through your novel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128191\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids.jpg\" alt=\"The Handmaid’s Tale and Strawberry Meyer Lemon Coffeecake.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128191\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/handmaids-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Handmaid’s Tale and Strawberry Meyer Lemon Coffeecake. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/107930/easter-brunch-strawberry-meyer-lemon-coffeecake\">Strawberry Meyer Lemon Coffeecake\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>“Blessed be the fruit.”\u003c/em> Thanks to this \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Handmaid's%20Tale%2C%20The\">\u003cem>The Handsmaid’s Tale\u003c/em>\u003c/a> greeting we can’t really look at fruit these days without a little shudder, but it doesn’t mean we should avoid eating the tasty little things! The novel takes place in a bleak world where the comforts we take for granted now like delicious foods or walking around in shorts is looked down on. That’s why we’re flipping the switch on this sad story by giving you a decadent fruit recipe to give you a little comfort while reading about Ofred’s sad plight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128193\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander.jpg\" alt=\"Outlander and Lemony Shortbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128193\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/outlander-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Outlander and Lemony Shortbread. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/123208/christmas-cookies-lemony-shortbread\">Lemony Shortbread\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>We can’t provide attractive young men running around in kilts, but we can give you a tasty, easy-to-make-at-home shortbread recipe to eat while reading about said men in \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Outlander%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Outlander\u003c/em>\u003c/a>! Shortbread has been around since the 1800s and is a big deal in Scotland. It’s pretty simple to make, but our version is as sweet as Jamie and Claire’s romance with a little lemon to give it a kick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128189\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades.jpg\" alt=\"Fifty Shades of Grey and Multigrain Pancakes with Rhubarb-Orange Compote and Greek Yogurt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128189\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fiftyshades-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fifty Shades of Grey and Multigrain Pancakes with Rhubarb-Orange Compote and Greek Yogurt. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/95251/mothers-day-brunch-recipe-multigrain-pancakes-with-rhubarb-orange-compote-and-greek-yogurt\">Multigrain Pancakes with Rhubarb-Orange Compote and Greek Yogurt\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In the long, drawn out course of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Fifty%20Shades%20of%20Grey%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Fifty Shades of Grey\u003c/em>\u003c/a> series, breakfast appears enough times that we felt it deserved some time in the spotlight as much as Ana and Christian gets. Sure, we could have given you oysters, chocolates, or really anything that stereotypically would be associated with an erotic novel. But wouldn’t you rather have a great dish you can enjoy while reading \u003cem>50 Shades\u003c/em> or just on your couch watching \u003cem>The Bachelor\u003c/em>? Plus, our pancake recipe is a little ode to their trip to IHOP at the beginning of their “romance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128190\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones.jpg\" alt=\"A Game of Thrones and Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128190\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/gameofthrones-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Game of Thrones and Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/105328/new-years-eve-appetizers-mini-meyer-lemon-curd-cupcakes\">Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>When you play the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Game%20of%20Thrones%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Game of Thrones\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, you win or you die...thank god we are all winners when it comes to these Mini Meyer Lemon Curd Cupcakes. If you didn’t know, Sansa Stark’s favorite snack is little lemon cakes, and you’ll feel like a queen (or king) munching on these decadent little treats while reading about White Walkers, dragons, and intense battles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128192\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter.jpg\" alt=\"Harry Potter and the Sorceror’s Stone and Double Chocolate Brownies.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"870\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128192\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-160x73.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-800x363.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-768x348.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-1020x462.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-1200x544.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-1180x535.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-960x435.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-240x109.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-375x170.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/harrypotter-520x236.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harry Potter and the Sorceror’s Stone and Double Chocolate Brownies. \u003ccite>(Recipe: Kim Laidlaw, Photo: Wendy Goodfriend, Collage: Grace Cheung)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/98043/feed-your-chocolate-obsession-with-double-chocolate-brownies\">Double Chocolate Brownies\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In the Wizarding World of \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/the-great-american-read/books/#/book/Harry%20Potter%20(Series)\">\u003cem>Harry Potter\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, chocolate helps Harry and his friends recuperate after facing Dementors. Chocolate might not heal all wounds, but it sometimes can be so delicious that we forget it’s not actually a magical substance. For \u003cem>Harry Potter\u003c/em> fans, the line between fiction and reality when it comes to this tasty sweet is especially thin, and this decadent Double Chocolate Brownies recipe pairs perfectly with the books!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Gels, Foams and Purees: Cookbooks Serve Up Recipes For Those Who Struggle To Swallow",
"title": "Gels, Foams and Purees: Cookbooks Serve Up Recipes For Those Who Struggle To Swallow",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>In 2007 Diane Wolff, an Asian scholar about to move from California to New York City, got a call from her mother: Dementia had made it hard to take care of herself. Couldn't Diane move to Florida instead of New York? \"My mother was beautiful and headstrong, and even in her old age I thought of her like Scarlett O'Hara,\" says Wolff. \"She needed me, and I packed up and moved to Florida.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010, however, her mother's dementia led to a swallowing disorder called dysphagia. When Wolff tried to source soft foods, or recipes for those with dysphagia, she came up virtually empty handed. \"Commercially available pureed foods were horrible. One caregiver compared them to dog food, and I think that was being kind.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working with dieticians and speech pathologists, Wolff — who cared for her mother until her death in 2013 — began to develop a suite of techniques and recipes for pureeing delicious, nutritious foods, from pizza to roast chicken. Today she is known as \"The Queen of Puree.\" With 12 self-published books — including \u003ca href=\"https://essentialpuree.com/\">The Essential Puree: The A to Z Guidebook\u003c/a> — a blog, and a busy schedule training caregivers and medical professionals, she is helping pioneer a new approach to an increasingly common disorder. The essence: simple, intensely flavorful food that is easy on the throat and packed with good nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year \u003ca href=\"https://www.asha.org/PRPSpecificTopic.aspx?folderid=8589942550§ion=Incidence_and_Prevalence\">1 in 25 adults\u003c/a> experience a swallowing disorder. Dsyphagia has many causes — ranging from dementia to stroke, surgery and neurological disorders — but no matter the origin, the ability to safely consume foods is essential, according to speech pathologist David Fagen, at Fawcett Memorial Hospital in Port Charlotte, Fla. Some \u003ca href=\"file:///C:UsershpDropbox%20(Personal)NPR%20The%20SaltDisabled%20Foods%20Chefvitalcaretech.com\">60,000 dysphagia sufferers die each year\u003c/a>, mostly from aspiration pneumonia, which is caused when food or saliva is inhaled into the lungs. Those with dysphagia can also lose interest in eating if foods are too bland or swallowing is too difficult, \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3426263/\">leading to weight loss and poor nutrition.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff says there are essential tricks to a successful puree. One key is the careful application of flavor through sauces. \"When you puree a food,\" she explains, \"you increase the surface area by a factor of thousands, and you lose flavor. It tastes bland. Sauce becomes the all-important medium to carry flavor. A simple half-cup of sauce can make a puree delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>High-fiber foods will need to be strained after pureeing, and swapping ingredients can be essential. (A polenta pizza crust works well, whereas a traditional wheat flour crust does not). High-speed blenders are best for breaking down the cell walls of fruits and vegetables and liberating the nutrients within. Thickeners such as xanthan gum can be purchased either in gel or powder form; they allow liquids and purees to be thickened according to the patient's ability to swallow, as determined by a speech language pathologist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128149\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2361px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg\" alt=\"Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential.\" width=\"2361\" height=\"1498\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128149\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg 2361w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-800x508.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-768x487.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1020x647.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1200x761.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1180x749.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-960x609.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-240x152.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-375x238.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-520x330.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2361px) 100vw, 2361px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential. \u003ccite>(Matt Jewell/HammondCare)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another tip for caregivers: Before cooking, bring ingredients, such as vegetables and fruits, in to the patient, so they can see and smell them. Present the entire dish before it is pureed, as well. Prepare seasonal foods — the iconic dishes of summer, fall, winter and spring. \"Engage all their senses during meal preparation. Just because the form of the food has changed, doesn't mean eating has to be boring and tasteless,\" says Wolff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff isn't the only food professional addressing dysphagia. Peter Morgan-Jones is executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia, which operates facilities for patients with dementia, aged, and palliative care needs. He has published \u003ca href=\"http://www.hammond.com.au/services/food-culture/dont-give-me-eggs-that-bounce\">three cookbooks\u003c/a> for people who have trouble chewing and swallowing, or even using cutlery; his fourth — coauthored with palliative care specialist \u003ca href=\"http://sydney.edu.au/medicine/people/academics/profiles/rod.macleod.php\">Roderick MacLeod\u003c/a> of the University of Sydney — is forthcoming in late May. Many of his ingenious recipes draw on molecular gastronomy, utilizing whipping cream canisters to create \"molecular foams\" soaked in flavor but as light as air, dissolving on the tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I first tried a foam on my friend's son, who had been on a feeding tube for eight years,\" he explains. Morgan-Jones blended fresh strawberries and ice cream, passed them through a strainer, and added a binding agent. He then frothed the liquid into a foam. \"I put the bubble on his tongue and though it was full of fragrance and flavor, it just disappeared without swallowing. His eyes lit up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones utilizes thickening agents, such as agar-agar and xanthan gum, to create gels that can be easily consumed. He offers recipes for finger food, since some individuals suffering from dementia, arthritis or neurological conditions have difficulty using cutlery. His ingenuity extends to beverages: vodka and tonic ice blocks, a jellied mulled-wine ice cube, and a jelled Scotch-on-the-rocks that can be consumed by dipping cotton swabs into the blend, freezing them and then sucking gently. \"It's a new way of having a favorite tipple,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones believes the visual impression a food makes is essential: \"If you present someone with dementia a bowl of orange mush, they won't know if it's pumpkin, carrot, or squash. But if you mold it into the shape of a carrot, or pour a puree of pear into a pear-shaped mold, it will look familiar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using Morgan-Jones' books, Peter Welfare, a HammondCare chef, created a chicken drumstick satay and a pureed fruit salad for a 51-year-old mother of two with early onset dementia. She was living on ice cream, custard and fruit, and was facing a possible feeding tube because of her difficulty eating. The pureed chicken was molded into the shape of drumsticks; similarly, the pureed fruit was set on yogurt and sculpted to look like the fruits themselves. \"It was a smashing success. She ate it all,\" reports Welfare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individuals with swallowing difficulties are often presented with a difficult choice, says Prudence Ellis, a senior speech pathologist with HammondCare. \"They can eat and drink safely but lose the pleasure of food, or they can choose quality of life with delicious meals that may trigger choking or aspiration,\" Ellis says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cookbooks dedicated to dysphagia, that impossible choice may be changing. Ellis recalls treating a passionate wine lover with dysphagia. \"All he wanted for Christmas was a Shiraz, which is a popular wine made from a dark-skinned grape.\" By modifying Morgan-Jones' Scotch cotton swabs, Ellis was able to provide the patient a Christmas drink. \"I brought him joy, instead of taking from him something he loved.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Swallowing disorders are becoming increasingly common. Some chefs are now whipping up nutritious recipes that are not only easy on the throat, but help restore the joy of eating.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In 2007 Diane Wolff, an Asian scholar about to move from California to New York City, got a call from her mother: Dementia had made it hard to take care of herself. Couldn't Diane move to Florida instead of New York? \"My mother was beautiful and headstrong, and even in her old age I thought of her like Scarlett O'Hara,\" says Wolff. \"She needed me, and I packed up and moved to Florida.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010, however, her mother's dementia led to a swallowing disorder called dysphagia. When Wolff tried to source soft foods, or recipes for those with dysphagia, she came up virtually empty handed. \"Commercially available pureed foods were horrible. One caregiver compared them to dog food, and I think that was being kind.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working with dieticians and speech pathologists, Wolff — who cared for her mother until her death in 2013 — began to develop a suite of techniques and recipes for pureeing delicious, nutritious foods, from pizza to roast chicken. Today she is known as \"The Queen of Puree.\" With 12 self-published books — including \u003ca href=\"https://essentialpuree.com/\">The Essential Puree: The A to Z Guidebook\u003c/a> — a blog, and a busy schedule training caregivers and medical professionals, she is helping pioneer a new approach to an increasingly common disorder. The essence: simple, intensely flavorful food that is easy on the throat and packed with good nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each year \u003ca href=\"https://www.asha.org/PRPSpecificTopic.aspx?folderid=8589942550§ion=Incidence_and_Prevalence\">1 in 25 adults\u003c/a> experience a swallowing disorder. Dsyphagia has many causes — ranging from dementia to stroke, surgery and neurological disorders — but no matter the origin, the ability to safely consume foods is essential, according to speech pathologist David Fagen, at Fawcett Memorial Hospital in Port Charlotte, Fla. Some \u003ca href=\"file:///C:UsershpDropbox%20(Personal)NPR%20The%20SaltDisabled%20Foods%20Chefvitalcaretech.com\">60,000 dysphagia sufferers die each year\u003c/a>, mostly from aspiration pneumonia, which is caused when food or saliva is inhaled into the lungs. Those with dysphagia can also lose interest in eating if foods are too bland or swallowing is too difficult, \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3426263/\">leading to weight loss and poor nutrition.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff says there are essential tricks to a successful puree. One key is the careful application of flavor through sauces. \"When you puree a food,\" she explains, \"you increase the surface area by a factor of thousands, and you lose flavor. It tastes bland. Sauce becomes the all-important medium to carry flavor. A simple half-cup of sauce can make a puree delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>High-fiber foods will need to be strained after pureeing, and swapping ingredients can be essential. (A polenta pizza crust works well, whereas a traditional wheat flour crust does not). High-speed blenders are best for breaking down the cell walls of fruits and vegetables and liberating the nutrients within. Thickeners such as xanthan gum can be purchased either in gel or powder form; they allow liquids and purees to be thickened according to the patient's ability to swallow, as determined by a speech language pathologist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128149\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2361px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg\" alt=\"Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential.\" width=\"2361\" height=\"1498\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128149\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062.jpg 2361w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-160x102.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-800x508.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-768x487.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1020x647.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1200x761.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-1180x749.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-960x609.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-240x152.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-375x238.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/untitled-1_custom-96cce3988785de7cea8540e9ff79fe2752ff7062-520x330.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2361px) 100vw, 2361px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: shredded chicken and ginger congee. Right: a grape slushy. Both recipes come from Peter Morgan-Jones, executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia. He believes the visual impression a food makes is essential. \u003ccite>(Matt Jewell/HammondCare)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Another tip for caregivers: Before cooking, bring ingredients, such as vegetables and fruits, in to the patient, so they can see and smell them. Present the entire dish before it is pureed, as well. Prepare seasonal foods — the iconic dishes of summer, fall, winter and spring. \"Engage all their senses during meal preparation. Just because the form of the food has changed, doesn't mean eating has to be boring and tasteless,\" says Wolff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolff isn't the only food professional addressing dysphagia. Peter Morgan-Jones is executive chef at the HammondCare Foundation in Australia, which operates facilities for patients with dementia, aged, and palliative care needs. He has published \u003ca href=\"http://www.hammond.com.au/services/food-culture/dont-give-me-eggs-that-bounce\">three cookbooks\u003c/a> for people who have trouble chewing and swallowing, or even using cutlery; his fourth — coauthored with palliative care specialist \u003ca href=\"http://sydney.edu.au/medicine/people/academics/profiles/rod.macleod.php\">Roderick MacLeod\u003c/a> of the University of Sydney — is forthcoming in late May. Many of his ingenious recipes draw on molecular gastronomy, utilizing whipping cream canisters to create \"molecular foams\" soaked in flavor but as light as air, dissolving on the tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I first tried a foam on my friend's son, who had been on a feeding tube for eight years,\" he explains. Morgan-Jones blended fresh strawberries and ice cream, passed them through a strainer, and added a binding agent. He then frothed the liquid into a foam. \"I put the bubble on his tongue and though it was full of fragrance and flavor, it just disappeared without swallowing. His eyes lit up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones utilizes thickening agents, such as agar-agar and xanthan gum, to create gels that can be easily consumed. He offers recipes for finger food, since some individuals suffering from dementia, arthritis or neurological conditions have difficulty using cutlery. His ingenuity extends to beverages: vodka and tonic ice blocks, a jellied mulled-wine ice cube, and a jelled Scotch-on-the-rocks that can be consumed by dipping cotton swabs into the blend, freezing them and then sucking gently. \"It's a new way of having a favorite tipple,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morgan-Jones believes the visual impression a food makes is essential: \"If you present someone with dementia a bowl of orange mush, they won't know if it's pumpkin, carrot, or squash. But if you mold it into the shape of a carrot, or pour a puree of pear into a pear-shaped mold, it will look familiar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using Morgan-Jones' books, Peter Welfare, a HammondCare chef, created a chicken drumstick satay and a pureed fruit salad for a 51-year-old mother of two with early onset dementia. She was living on ice cream, custard and fruit, and was facing a possible feeding tube because of her difficulty eating. The pureed chicken was molded into the shape of drumsticks; similarly, the pureed fruit was set on yogurt and sculpted to look like the fruits themselves. \"It was a smashing success. She ate it all,\" reports Welfare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Individuals with swallowing difficulties are often presented with a difficult choice, says Prudence Ellis, a senior speech pathologist with HammondCare. \"They can eat and drink safely but lose the pleasure of food, or they can choose quality of life with delicious meals that may trigger choking or aspiration,\" Ellis says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With cookbooks dedicated to dysphagia, that impossible choice may be changing. Ellis recalls treating a passionate wine lover with dysphagia. \"All he wanted for Christmas was a Shiraz, which is a popular wine made from a dark-skinned grape.\" By modifying Morgan-Jones' Scotch cotton swabs, Ellis was able to provide the patient a Christmas drink. \"I brought him joy, instead of taking from him something he loved.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How 'Peasant Food' Helped Chef Lidia Bastianich Achieve Her 'American Dream'",
"title": "How 'Peasant Food' Helped Chef Lidia Bastianich Achieve Her 'American Dream'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Many of chef Lidia Bastianich's earliest memories are of her grandparents' village on the Istrian peninsula, which was part of Italy when she was a small child. The family ate what Bastianich now calls \"peasant food,\" farm-to-table meals consisting of animals they raised and fruits and vegetables they grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after Bastianich emigrated to America, she drew on those childhood meals in opening her first restaurant with her husband, Felice. \"We brought the simple dishes to a level of service and presentation that was above what it would be in the home,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bastianich's peasant-style Italian food proved popular, and she went on to open more restaurants and to appear in cooking shows on public television. In 2018, she won the Daytime Emmy Award for outstanding culinary host for her program \u003cem>Lidia's Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bastianich never forgot where she came from — or how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia. She writes about her family's escape from Yugoslavia and her love of food in the new memoir, \u003cem>My American Dream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2018/05/20180507_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127923\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/609095684/my-american-dream-a-life-of-love-family-and-food\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"My American Dream A Life of Love, Family, and Food by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich\" width=\"400\" height=\"596\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127923\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-160x238.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-240x358.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-375x559.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/609095684/my-american-dream-a-life-of-love-family-and-food\">My American Dream\u003cbr>A Life of Love, Family, and Food\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On growing up on her grandparents' farm, where she would bond with the animals that they would eventually eat\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I loved the bunny rabbits. Small rabbits — when they came — we played and we cuddled them, and then two weeks later they were part of the dinner table. Somehow, this cycle of life, you accept it. You bond, you learn, you connect, you help to raise these little animals and they become adult animals and they become food. And when food is scarce, every morsel is really appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sense, you are grateful to these animals. You celebrate them in a way, because they are giving us life. And I think that the caveat here is respect — respect for food. We need to eat food, but let's not waste it at all. Let's respect the animals that feed us. ... That's the important element here, because I continued to certainly cook all kinds of meats. But I love animals and I respect them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was the border and, of course, on the Italian side we had some family that was kind of left on that side. And we were on the other side, on the Communist side. So my mother decided that supposedly our ... great aunt Nina in Trieste [Italy], was not feeling well. And so we got a visa. And that's only the three of us — my mother, my brother and I — my father they wouldn't give a visa. He had to remain, you know, as a hostage in a sense so that the family [would] return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We went to Trieste, visited the aunt, stayed with the aunt. The aunt looked fine to me ... and then about two to three weeks later my father escaped the border, literally walking about 50 kilometers, crossing the barbed wire fence with the dogs. They were shooting at him, but he made it. And we reunited in Trieste in 1956.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Julia Child encouraged her to start cooking on television \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as television, when I was the chef in Felidia [Restaurant], ... one of the [people] that came was Julia Child, and with her, also, James Beard came for dinner. And she was very interested in risotto — how to make it. So we became friends, I taught her how to make risotto, and we continued our friendship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She asked me to be on her show, the \u003cem>[Cooking with] Master Chefs\u003c/em> series. And that's when the producer says, \"Lidia, you're pretty good. How about a show of your own?\" And that was 20 years ago. So I thought about it. She encouraged me. She said, \"Lidia, you go ahead. You do for Italian food what I did for French food. You can do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I asked the producer for two things. [One] was that I'd be on PBS, because the platform is second to none for information and that's where I wanted to be. And the second request was that I tape it in my home. And that was purely because I was afraid of getting in a studio. I was never in a studio. I didn't know what cooking in a studio entailed. And I said, \"In my home, I know my stove. I know where everything is.\" And so it began.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her experience as an immigrant child shapes her view of immigration today\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't help it when I watch the television to see those children in [refugee] camp. And yes, they run, they're joyful. But I know what they feel at night when they go to bed and how they think, \"What's tomorrow? Are my parents going to be with me? Are we going to have a home? Am I going to make friends? Am I going to see my relatives again?\" ... I know that those children have the same thoughts. So I feel really connected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So hopefully me telling my story is a good story. It's a story of somebody that, yes, faced adversity like a lot of people are facing today. But given a chance, and working hard, and being spiritual, and staying strong to those basic values can take you to great places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the #MeToo movement in the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a sad subject and it is real. Maybe because of my matriarchal, if you will, position, I was always looked on with respect. But ... I tell women in the industry, and for that matter everybody, you need to give respect and you need to actually demand and get respect back. Have I seen it? It's unavoidable to see different things, and I've corrected it along the way as much as I've seen. But it is a reality there. And my case, it was always more of a family situation, my husband was always there ... and hence, mine maybe wasn't as direct. But it's an unacceptable issue which really needs to be addressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Therese Madden and Thea Chaloner produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Maria Godoy adapted it for the Web\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Many of chef Lidia Bastianich's earliest memories are of her grandparents' village on the Istrian peninsula, which was part of Italy when she was a small child. The family ate what Bastianich now calls \"peasant food,\" farm-to-table meals consisting of animals they raised and fruits and vegetables they grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after Bastianich emigrated to America, she drew on those childhood meals in opening her first restaurant with her husband, Felice. \"We brought the simple dishes to a level of service and presentation that was above what it would be in the home,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bastianich's peasant-style Italian food proved popular, and she went on to open more restaurants and to appear in cooking shows on public television. In 2018, she won the Daytime Emmy Award for outstanding culinary host for her program \u003cem>Lidia's Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bastianich never forgot where she came from — or how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia. She writes about her family's escape from Yugoslavia and her love of food in the new memoir, \u003cem>My American Dream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127923\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/609095684/my-american-dream-a-life-of-love-family-and-food\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"My American Dream A Life of Love, Family, and Food by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich\" width=\"400\" height=\"596\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127923\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-160x238.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-240x358.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-375x559.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/609095684/my-american-dream-a-life-of-love-family-and-food\">My American Dream\u003cbr>A Life of Love, Family, and Food\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On growing up on her grandparents' farm, where she would bond with the animals that they would eventually eat\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I loved the bunny rabbits. Small rabbits — when they came — we played and we cuddled them, and then two weeks later they were part of the dinner table. Somehow, this cycle of life, you accept it. You bond, you learn, you connect, you help to raise these little animals and they become adult animals and they become food. And when food is scarce, every morsel is really appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sense, you are grateful to these animals. You celebrate them in a way, because they are giving us life. And I think that the caveat here is respect — respect for food. We need to eat food, but let's not waste it at all. Let's respect the animals that feed us. ... That's the important element here, because I continued to certainly cook all kinds of meats. But I love animals and I respect them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was the border and, of course, on the Italian side we had some family that was kind of left on that side. And we were on the other side, on the Communist side. So my mother decided that supposedly our ... great aunt Nina in Trieste [Italy], was not feeling well. And so we got a visa. And that's only the three of us — my mother, my brother and I — my father they wouldn't give a visa. He had to remain, you know, as a hostage in a sense so that the family [would] return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We went to Trieste, visited the aunt, stayed with the aunt. The aunt looked fine to me ... and then about two to three weeks later my father escaped the border, literally walking about 50 kilometers, crossing the barbed wire fence with the dogs. They were shooting at him, but he made it. And we reunited in Trieste in 1956.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Julia Child encouraged her to start cooking on television \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as television, when I was the chef in Felidia [Restaurant], ... one of the [people] that came was Julia Child, and with her, also, James Beard came for dinner. And she was very interested in risotto — how to make it. So we became friends, I taught her how to make risotto, and we continued our friendship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She asked me to be on her show, the \u003cem>[Cooking with] Master Chefs\u003c/em> series. And that's when the producer says, \"Lidia, you're pretty good. How about a show of your own?\" And that was 20 years ago. So I thought about it. She encouraged me. She said, \"Lidia, you go ahead. You do for Italian food what I did for French food. You can do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I asked the producer for two things. [One] was that I'd be on PBS, because the platform is second to none for information and that's where I wanted to be. And the second request was that I tape it in my home. And that was purely because I was afraid of getting in a studio. I was never in a studio. I didn't know what cooking in a studio entailed. And I said, \"In my home, I know my stove. I know where everything is.\" And so it began.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her experience as an immigrant child shapes her view of immigration today\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't help it when I watch the television to see those children in [refugee] camp. And yes, they run, they're joyful. But I know what they feel at night when they go to bed and how they think, \"What's tomorrow? Are my parents going to be with me? Are we going to have a home? Am I going to make friends? Am I going to see my relatives again?\" ... I know that those children have the same thoughts. So I feel really connected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So hopefully me telling my story is a good story. It's a story of somebody that, yes, faced adversity like a lot of people are facing today. But given a chance, and working hard, and being spiritual, and staying strong to those basic values can take you to great places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the #MeToo movement in the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a sad subject and it is real. Maybe because of my matriarchal, if you will, position, I was always looked on with respect. But ... I tell women in the industry, and for that matter everybody, you need to give respect and you need to actually demand and get respect back. Have I seen it? It's unavoidable to see different things, and I've corrected it along the way as much as I've seen. But it is a reality there. And my case, it was always more of a family situation, my husband was always there ... and hence, mine maybe wasn't as direct. But it's an unacceptable issue which really needs to be addressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Therese Madden and Thea Chaloner produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Maria Godoy adapted it for the Web\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Veteran children's book publisher Philip Lee is describing his a-ha moment. Nine years ago, he was visiting with members of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wafarmtoschool.org/Page/3/wsda-farm-to-school\">Washington State's Farm to School\u003c/a> office. Someone began talking about the achievement gap for low-income students and its implications for test scores. \"But they pointed out, 'Kids that don't have a proper breakfast can't learn by 10 a.m., so we don't really have a learning problem; we have a public health problem,' \" Lee remembers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost right then and there, he decided to start a food publishing house to address the link between kids' diets and how well they learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't exactly an obvious line of thinking, even for a person whose whole life is wrapped up in books. His first publishing house, \u003ca href=\"https://www.leeandlow.com/\">Lee & Low Books\u003c/a>, is known for diversity-focused titles about nearly extinct Puerto Rican parrots and fatherhood as celebrated by African American poets (Lee left the company in 2004). But thanks in part to the interests of his wife, June Jo Lee, a food anthropologist and ethnographer, Lee had become more interested in what kids were (or weren't) eating in school and elsewhere, how it affected their health, and how it affected their ability to do well in school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Our School Garden! by Rick Swann and Christy Hale\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125511\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-375x469.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-520x650.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our School Garden! by Rick Swann and Christy Hale \u003ccite>(Readers to Eaters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One month after Michelle Obama opened her \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2016/10/06/496894618/michelle-obamas-kitchen-garden-will-keep-blooming-even-after-she-leaves\">White House garden\u003c/a> in March of 2009, the Lees launched \u003ca href=\"http://www.readerstoeaters.com/\">Readers to Eaters\u003c/a> — a pop-up shop selling food-themed books for both adults and children that help promote understanding about where food comes from and the diverse stories about how we eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We didn't even have a business plan,\" Lee says. \"But suddenly, there was all this public dialog about food literacy, and school food directors were coming to me saying, 'We need an education program around food.' \" In other words, the timing for such a venture was suddenly just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Lee, \"Our biggest customers were parents, and books for them [to read with their kids] were the most consistently lacking.\" So, in 2010, he began acquiring kids titles to publish himself. Readers to Eaters released its first picture book in 2012: \u003ca href=\"http://www.readerstoeaters.com/our-books/our-school-garden\">\u003cem>Our School Garden\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>!\u003c/em> by Rick Swann and Christy Hale, in which a kid acclimates to a new town once he discovers his school has a garden. Quick on its heels was \u003ca href=\"http://www.readerstoeaters.com/our-books/sylvias-spinach\">\u003cem>Sylvia's Spinach\u003c/em>\u003c/a> by Katherine Pryor and Anna Raff, about a picky eater who comes to terms with her least favorite vegetable when she's able to grow it for herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Roy Choi And The Street Food Remix by Jo Lee and Jacqueline Briggs Martin\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125512\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Roy Choi And The Street Food Remix by Jo Lee and Jacqueline Briggs Martin \u003ccite>(Readers to Eaters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The stories weren't meant to preach, or even necessarily to change kids' minds about what they were consuming — at least, not in the short term. Rather, they aimed to start a critical conversation between parents and children. As Lee explains it, \"If kids aren't eating salad at school, it's because they don't eat it at home. Where our books come in is in getting families excited to talk about food around the dinner table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Readers to Eaters has now published eight books, and five more are in the works. Its titles have been steadily garnering acclaim among educators.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its latest offering is \u003cem>Chef Roy Choi and the Street Food Remix\u003c/em> by Jo Lee and Jacqueline Briggs Martin. It follows the days of a real-life Korean-American food truck cook in Los Angeles, illustrated by Mexican-Angeleno graffiti artist Man One. The book recently won an award from the \u003ca href=\"https://www.socialstudies.org/\">National Council for Social Studies\u003c/a> and two others from professional organizations that recognized it as an outstanding non-fiction text. What these awards mean, practically speaking, says Lee, is that teachers around the country will begin using the book as a teaching tool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Already, Lee estimates that as much as 80 percent of the company's sales are made to schools and libraries. Elementary teacher and librarian Craig Seasholes has used at least two Readers to Eaters titles in his Seattle-area classrooms. He says that his Mexican- and African-American students especially connect with the books' gentle, healthy-food message and relatable protagonists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"596\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-160x159.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-240x238.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-375x373.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-520x517.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sylvia's Spinach by Katherine Pryor \u003ccite>(Readers to Eaters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The books have also been used in conjunction with the California Library Association's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cla-net.org/?587\">Lunch at the Library program\u003c/a>, which feeds school-age kids throughout the summer. Library manager Gia Paolini read \u003cem>Farmer Will Allen and the Growing Table\u003c/em> at her branch in Contra Costa County—a community where she says the vast majority of children qualify for free or reduced-price lunches. \"Just as we have to expose kids to as many words as possible, it's important to expose them to concepts, too,\" she says. \"Books about food plant the seed that [healthy] food is important and fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee has also organized a book give-away program through Washington State's farmers markets, and is talking to librarians in New York State about collaborating on a literacy program.\" I'm not inventing anything here,\" Lee says. \"I'm just making obvious connections.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others are also beginning to make the connection between the desire of families to learn about food's origins and the need for books about it. The American Farm Bureau Foundation for Agriculture \u003ca href=\"https://www.publishersweekly.com/pw/by-topic/childrens/childrens-industry-news/article/76069-feeding-minds-press-to-bring-farm-to-readers-tables.html\">announced\u003c/a> in February that it was starting a line of picture books about how food is grown. It's a testament, says \u003cem>Publishers Weekly\u003c/em> associate children's book editor Emma Kantor, to the importance of linking \"literacy and healthy living — both practices that start young.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Parents want these kinds of books to read to their kids,\" says Lee. He then quotes a troubling statistic: In low-income neighborhoods where families struggle to get healthy meals on the table, there is one book, on average, \u003ca href=\"http://clifonline.org/resources/research/\">for every 300 children\u003c/a>. \"How do we get books out to them? That's my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Veteran children's book publisher Philip Lee is describing his a-ha moment. Nine years ago, he was visiting with members of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wafarmtoschool.org/Page/3/wsda-farm-to-school\">Washington State's Farm to School\u003c/a> office. Someone began talking about the achievement gap for low-income students and its implications for test scores. \"But they pointed out, 'Kids that don't have a proper breakfast can't learn by 10 a.m., so we don't really have a learning problem; we have a public health problem,' \" Lee remembers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Almost right then and there, he decided to start a food publishing house to address the link between kids' diets and how well they learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't exactly an obvious line of thinking, even for a person whose whole life is wrapped up in books. His first publishing house, \u003ca href=\"https://www.leeandlow.com/\">Lee & Low Books\u003c/a>, is known for diversity-focused titles about nearly extinct Puerto Rican parrots and fatherhood as celebrated by African American poets (Lee left the company in 2004). But thanks in part to the interests of his wife, June Jo Lee, a food anthropologist and ethnographer, Lee had become more interested in what kids were (or weren't) eating in school and elsewhere, how it affected their health, and how it affected their ability to do well in school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125511\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Our School Garden! by Rick Swann and Christy Hale\" width=\"600\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125511\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-375x469.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/schoolgarden_custom-97621916488f6e5c7c7a80b48253724960aa5d5d-s600-c85-520x650.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Our School Garden! by Rick Swann and Christy Hale \u003ccite>(Readers to Eaters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One month after Michelle Obama opened her \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2016/10/06/496894618/michelle-obamas-kitchen-garden-will-keep-blooming-even-after-she-leaves\">White House garden\u003c/a> in March of 2009, the Lees launched \u003ca href=\"http://www.readerstoeaters.com/\">Readers to Eaters\u003c/a> — a pop-up shop selling food-themed books for both adults and children that help promote understanding about where food comes from and the diverse stories about how we eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We didn't even have a business plan,\" Lee says. \"But suddenly, there was all this public dialog about food literacy, and school food directors were coming to me saying, 'We need an education program around food.' \" In other words, the timing for such a venture was suddenly just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Lee, \"Our biggest customers were parents, and books for them [to read with their kids] were the most consistently lacking.\" So, in 2010, he began acquiring kids titles to publish himself. Readers to Eaters released its first picture book in 2012: \u003ca href=\"http://www.readerstoeaters.com/our-books/our-school-garden\">\u003cem>Our School Garden\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>!\u003c/em> by Rick Swann and Christy Hale, in which a kid acclimates to a new town once he discovers his school has a garden. Quick on its heels was \u003ca href=\"http://www.readerstoeaters.com/our-books/sylvias-spinach\">\u003cem>Sylvia's Spinach\u003c/em>\u003c/a> by Katherine Pryor and Anna Raff, about a picky eater who comes to terms with her least favorite vegetable when she's able to grow it for herself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125512\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Roy Choi And The Street Food Remix by Jo Lee and Jacqueline Briggs Martin\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125512\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/roychoi_custom-ba9438961688f071c75db203f3a5721484a96aa6-s600-c85-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Roy Choi And The Street Food Remix by Jo Lee and Jacqueline Briggs Martin \u003ccite>(Readers to Eaters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The stories weren't meant to preach, or even necessarily to change kids' minds about what they were consuming — at least, not in the short term. Rather, they aimed to start a critical conversation between parents and children. As Lee explains it, \"If kids aren't eating salad at school, it's because they don't eat it at home. Where our books come in is in getting families excited to talk about food around the dinner table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Readers to Eaters has now published eight books, and five more are in the works. Its titles have been steadily garnering acclaim among educators.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its latest offering is \u003cem>Chef Roy Choi and the Street Food Remix\u003c/em> by Jo Lee and Jacqueline Briggs Martin. It follows the days of a real-life Korean-American food truck cook in Los Angeles, illustrated by Mexican-Angeleno graffiti artist Man One. The book recently won an award from the \u003ca href=\"https://www.socialstudies.org/\">National Council for Social Studies\u003c/a> and two others from professional organizations that recognized it as an outstanding non-fiction text. What these awards mean, practically speaking, says Lee, is that teachers around the country will begin using the book as a teaching tool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Already, Lee estimates that as much as 80 percent of the company's sales are made to schools and libraries. Elementary teacher and librarian Craig Seasholes has used at least two Readers to Eaters titles in his Seattle-area classrooms. He says that his Mexican- and African-American students especially connect with the books' gentle, healthy-food message and relatable protagonists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125513\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"596\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-160x159.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-240x238.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-375x373.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-520x517.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/sylvia_custom-0170e83d74d7e399e9da24579fbb210004c6d3a0-s600-c85-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sylvia's Spinach by Katherine Pryor \u003ccite>(Readers to Eaters)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The books have also been used in conjunction with the California Library Association's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cla-net.org/?587\">Lunch at the Library program\u003c/a>, which feeds school-age kids throughout the summer. Library manager Gia Paolini read \u003cem>Farmer Will Allen and the Growing Table\u003c/em> at her branch in Contra Costa County—a community where she says the vast majority of children qualify for free or reduced-price lunches. \"Just as we have to expose kids to as many words as possible, it's important to expose them to concepts, too,\" she says. \"Books about food plant the seed that [healthy] food is important and fun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee has also organized a book give-away program through Washington State's farmers markets, and is talking to librarians in New York State about collaborating on a literacy program.\" I'm not inventing anything here,\" Lee says. \"I'm just making obvious connections.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others are also beginning to make the connection between the desire of families to learn about food's origins and the need for books about it. The American Farm Bureau Foundation for Agriculture \u003ca href=\"https://www.publishersweekly.com/pw/by-topic/childrens/childrens-industry-news/article/76069-feeding-minds-press-to-bring-farm-to-readers-tables.html\">announced\u003c/a> in February that it was starting a line of picture books about how food is grown. It's a testament, says \u003cem>Publishers Weekly\u003c/em> associate children's book editor Emma Kantor, to the importance of linking \"literacy and healthy living — both practices that start young.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Parents want these kinds of books to read to their kids,\" says Lee. He then quotes a troubling statistic: In low-income neighborhoods where families struggle to get healthy meals on the table, there is one book, on average, \u003ca href=\"http://clifonline.org/resources/research/\">for every 300 children\u003c/a>. \"How do we get books out to them? That's my mission.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Like Lemons? Quinoa? Thank This Food Explorer For Bringing Them To Your Plate",
"title": "Like Lemons? Quinoa? Thank This Food Explorer For Bringing Them To Your Plate",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/02/20180220_atc_like_lemons_quinoa_thank_this_food_explorer_for_bringing_them_to_your_plate.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Botanist David Fairchild grew up in Kansas at the end of the 19th century. He loved plants, and he loved travel, and he found a way to combine both into a job for the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125144\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of David Fairchild.\" width=\"600\" height=\"968\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-160x258.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-240x387.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-375x605.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-520x839.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A portrait of David Fairchild. \u003ccite>(Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the age of 22, he created the Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction of the USDA, and for the next 37 years, he traveled the world in search of useful plants to bring back to America. He \u003ca href=\"https://www.fairchildgarden.org/About-Fairchild/Mission-History\">visited\u003c/a> every continent except Antarctica and brought back mangos, quinoa, dates, cotton, soybeans, bamboo and the flowering Japanese cherry trees that blossom all over Washington D.C. each spring, as well as hundreds of other plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All Things Considered host Ari Shapiro talked with \u003ca href=\"https://www.danielstonebooks.com/\">Daniel Stone\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>The Food Explorer: The True Adventures Of A Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats\u003c/em>, which recounts Fairchild's sometimes harrowing adventures acquiring the familiar foods we eat and plants we take for granted today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how common a traveling foodie would have been in Fairchild's time\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was very rare. This was an era where people did not travel very far and travel was very difficult. It was often by boat or steamer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Fairchild traveled to over 50 countries, and met all sorts of people, some hostile, some diplomatic, and some friendly. He outran diseases, he got arrested, and he made it back with seeds almost every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He caught typhoid at one point, he gets arrows shot at him in the Malay Islands, he almost falls off a mule over a canyon in the Andes while he's looking for quinoa — but he survives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Fairchild's tactics for finding plants\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125146\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-240x317.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-375x495.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-520x686.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Food Explorer book \u003ccite>(Dutton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He started out as many of us do in new jobs — awkward and unequipped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He could steal things, as he did in Corsica, searching for new types of citron, or lemons. He got arrested and had to leave very quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he eventually develops a strategy of talking with people, going to markets, observing what people are eating and what they're growing. And he sends back seeds and cuttings to try in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Fairchild was sure he'd discovered the next big thing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1903 he travels around southern Africa and he finds a pint-sized pineapple — the size of a banana — very small. He thinks everyone's going to want a small pineapple, but the pineapple growers in the states and in South American say, 'No, people want bigger pineapples.' And now, 100 years later, we have even bigger pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On whether Fairchild was a genius or just lucky\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125148\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California.\" width=\"600\" height=\"915\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125148\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-160x244.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-240x366.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-375x572.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-520x793.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California. \u003ccite>(D.G. Passmore/U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He got lucky. He found a way to feed his wanderlust on a need his country had. So much of the labor force was farmers in that era, and they needed food to grow. The growth of America was the growth of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his efforts to improve existing American food crops\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 19th century, American beer was not very good. Germany had been brewing beer for centuries. Fairchild went to Bavaria to find better hops to brew better beer. Now, Germany knew it had great hops and had dogs guarding the hops fields at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fairchild could have stolen some of the hops, but he sees this as an opportunity for diplomacy. He befriends the growers, drinks with them in the beer hall, and eventually one of them says, 'I'll give you some hops but you can't tell anyone and you have to leave tomorrow.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125151\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"881\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125151\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-160x94.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-800x470.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-768x451.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1020x599.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1180x693.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-960x564.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-240x141.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-375x220.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-520x305.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the role of foods as immigrants in America\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples come from Kahzakstan, bananas come from New Guinea, pineapples from Brazil, and the oranges and lemons that have fueled the economies of Florida and California? They originated in China ... Almost every food we eat is an immigrant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-160x131.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-800x653.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-768x627.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1020x833.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1180x964.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-960x784.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-240x196.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-375x306.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-520x425.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Smokey Baer, Jolie Myers, and April Fulton contributed to this report.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In the early 20th century, botanist David Fairchild traveled the world and brought plants back to the U.S. that we now see as thoroughly American. NPR talks with the author of a book on Fairchild.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Botanist David Fairchild grew up in Kansas at the end of the 19th century. He loved plants, and he loved travel, and he found a way to combine both into a job for the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125144\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of David Fairchild.\" width=\"600\" height=\"968\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-160x258.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-240x387.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-375x605.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-520x839.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A portrait of David Fairchild. \u003ccite>(Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the age of 22, he created the Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction of the USDA, and for the next 37 years, he traveled the world in search of useful plants to bring back to America. He \u003ca href=\"https://www.fairchildgarden.org/About-Fairchild/Mission-History\">visited\u003c/a> every continent except Antarctica and brought back mangos, quinoa, dates, cotton, soybeans, bamboo and the flowering Japanese cherry trees that blossom all over Washington D.C. each spring, as well as hundreds of other plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All Things Considered host Ari Shapiro talked with \u003ca href=\"https://www.danielstonebooks.com/\">Daniel Stone\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>The Food Explorer: The True Adventures Of A Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats\u003c/em>, which recounts Fairchild's sometimes harrowing adventures acquiring the familiar foods we eat and plants we take for granted today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how common a traveling foodie would have been in Fairchild's time\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was very rare. This was an era where people did not travel very far and travel was very difficult. It was often by boat or steamer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Fairchild traveled to over 50 countries, and met all sorts of people, some hostile, some diplomatic, and some friendly. He outran diseases, he got arrested, and he made it back with seeds almost every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He caught typhoid at one point, he gets arrows shot at him in the Malay Islands, he almost falls off a mule over a canyon in the Andes while he's looking for quinoa — but he survives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Fairchild's tactics for finding plants\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125146\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-240x317.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-375x495.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-520x686.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Food Explorer book \u003ccite>(Dutton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He started out as many of us do in new jobs — awkward and unequipped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He could steal things, as he did in Corsica, searching for new types of citron, or lemons. He got arrested and had to leave very quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he eventually develops a strategy of talking with people, going to markets, observing what people are eating and what they're growing. And he sends back seeds and cuttings to try in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Fairchild was sure he'd discovered the next big thing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1903 he travels around southern Africa and he finds a pint-sized pineapple — the size of a banana — very small. He thinks everyone's going to want a small pineapple, but the pineapple growers in the states and in South American say, 'No, people want bigger pineapples.' And now, 100 years later, we have even bigger pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On whether Fairchild was a genius or just lucky\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125148\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California.\" width=\"600\" height=\"915\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125148\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-160x244.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-240x366.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-375x572.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-520x793.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California. \u003ccite>(D.G. Passmore/U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He got lucky. He found a way to feed his wanderlust on a need his country had. So much of the labor force was farmers in that era, and they needed food to grow. The growth of America was the growth of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his efforts to improve existing American food crops\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 19th century, American beer was not very good. Germany had been brewing beer for centuries. Fairchild went to Bavaria to find better hops to brew better beer. Now, Germany knew it had great hops and had dogs guarding the hops fields at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fairchild could have stolen some of the hops, but he sees this as an opportunity for diplomacy. He befriends the growers, drinks with them in the beer hall, and eventually one of them says, 'I'll give you some hops but you can't tell anyone and you have to leave tomorrow.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125151\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"881\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125151\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-160x94.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-800x470.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-768x451.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1020x599.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1180x693.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-960x564.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-240x141.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-375x220.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-520x305.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the role of foods as immigrants in America\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples come from Kahzakstan, bananas come from New Guinea, pineapples from Brazil, and the oranges and lemons that have fueled the economies of Florida and California? They originated in China ... Almost every food we eat is an immigrant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-160x131.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-800x653.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-768x627.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1020x833.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1180x964.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-960x784.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-240x196.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-375x306.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-520x425.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Smokey Baer, Jolie Myers, and April Fulton contributed to this report.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "With 'Hawker Fare,' Chef James Syhabout Shares Laotian Food He Grew Up With",
"title": "With 'Hawker Fare,' Chef James Syhabout Shares Laotian Food He Grew Up With",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/01/20180124_atc_hawker_fare.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, \u003cem>Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, \u003c/em>he sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: Fire ant salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a traditional Lao dish that he ate in his mother's home village. The ants nest in mango trees, and little children are sent into the tree to harvest the ants and fresh egg sacs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We got this salad, came to the table and there's like ants crawling in and out of it,\" Syhabout says. \"You just bite them before they bite you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos shares a border with Thailand, and Lao cooking is a cousin to Thai — the distant cousin you've never met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout says that's kind of the point of his cookbook: To introduce more people to the cuisine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The food that we know as Thai food, it's sweeter ... I call it the Coca-Cola culture\" he says. \"We all love soda, candy, you know, things that are sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout's father is from Laos; his mother is Lao by language and culture, but was born in Thailand. The family came to California as refugees, fleeing violence and the aftermath of the Vietnam War when James was 2 years old. They settled in Oakland, but still ate food that tasted of home, such as curried green beans with candied pork — despite the family's meager means.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"With welfare and food stamps you're only able to buy certain things. We couldn't buy fresh meant — we would only buy Oscar Mayer bacon. So my mother was intuitive enough, and she used bacon to make the green beans for us,\" Syhabout says. \"From a chef's standpoint, I thought it was brilliant. She was just trying to survive and she was homesick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His mom opened a Thai restaurant. As a kid he remembers asking his mother, \"Why do you cook Lao for us at home and Thai for the restaurant?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her answer involved perception, saying, \"They'll probably say it smells bad and it's too spicy and it doesn't appear appetizing — like, 'look, it's murky green, this thing looks like a bowl of swamp. ' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He calls the Thai food that most Americans know the \"gateway drug\" to Lao food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\" alt=\"When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad.\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1993\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of Thai food as we know it — laap, papaya salad — it's originated in Laos, it's actually Lao food,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James says he spent a lot of hours at his mother's restaurant growing up. Because of that he says he missed a lot of events, such as birthday parties, and play dates while he was washing pots and pans and picking the stems off of chilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That being said, he loved how stimulating a kitchen could be. The smells, the sounds and getting to learn how to use the tools of the kitchen were all things he enjoyed. By his sophomore year of high school, his mind was made up: He would become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After culinary school, Shyabout moved to Europe and trained in classical French techniques, working in some of the best restaurants in the world. Eventually he got the itch to come back to Oakland, and opened the \u003ca href=\"http://commisrestaurant.com/\">city's only Michelin-starred restaurant, Commis\u003c/a> — serving fancy California cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, he said, nostalgia set in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What got me into cooking in the first place was this food that I crave and miss. It's a shame I that I [didn't] know how to cook it for myself. I didn't feel complete soulfully as a cook,\" Syhabout says. \"Make a perfect ice cream? I can do that. Make bread? I can do that. But make jeow padek? I have no clue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, Syhabout \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\">opened Hawker Fare\u003c/a> in San Francisco in 2011. It's a far more casual place in the Bay Area, serving Lao and Thai street food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\" alt=\"Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because "It's the little country that could"\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because \"It's the little country that could\" \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The cookbook it inspired features plenty of exotic-sounding dishes — including rice-fermented cabbage with pig's ear and scallions — but it's not all complicated. One of the simplest recipes in the cookbook involves just three ingredients: a ramen packet, water and an egg. That dish, Syhabout says, makes him feel like a child again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go home after a long day and you're like — I need a hug. So I make some ramen noodles,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the most part, the recipes in the cookbook are made for sharing, being able to serve four, six or eight people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shyabout says writing the book, remembering certain dishes, was like a time machine. Picturing a dish, he could remember \"who was in the room, what was the lighting like, what was the smells, the colors on the walls — all of a sudden I remember those things, immediately.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hawker Fare \u003c/em>isn't the definitive Lao cookbook — and it isn't meant to be. Shyabout simply calls it the \"food about how I grew up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says he is a champion of Lao food because \"it's this little country that could, [and] I always liked the underdogs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says Lao food is an underdog because everybody knows Thai, yet his book is full of cooking that most Americans have not tasted. At least not yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, \u003cem>Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, \u003c/em>he sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: Fire ant salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a traditional Lao dish that he ate in his mother's home village. The ants nest in mango trees, and little children are sent into the tree to harvest the ants and fresh egg sacs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We got this salad, came to the table and there's like ants crawling in and out of it,\" Syhabout says. \"You just bite them before they bite you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laos shares a border with Thailand, and Lao cooking is a cousin to Thai — the distant cousin you've never met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout says that's kind of the point of his cookbook: To introduce more people to the cuisine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The food that we know as Thai food, it's sweeter ... I call it the Coca-Cola culture\" he says. \"We all love soda, candy, you know, things that are sweet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Syhabout's father is from Laos; his mother is Lao by language and culture, but was born in Thailand. The family came to California as refugees, fleeing violence and the aftermath of the Vietnam War when James was 2 years old. They settled in Oakland, but still ate food that tasted of home, such as curried green beans with candied pork — despite the family's meager means.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"With welfare and food stamps you're only able to buy certain things. We couldn't buy fresh meant — we would only buy Oscar Mayer bacon. So my mother was intuitive enough, and she used bacon to make the green beans for us,\" Syhabout says. \"From a chef's standpoint, I thought it was brilliant. She was just trying to survive and she was homesick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His mom opened a Thai restaurant. As a kid he remembers asking his mother, \"Why do you cook Lao for us at home and Thai for the restaurant?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her answer involved perception, saying, \"They'll probably say it smells bad and it's too spicy and it doesn't appear appetizing — like, 'look, it's murky green, this thing looks like a bowl of swamp. ' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He calls the Thai food that most Americans know the \"gateway drug\" to Lao food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg\" alt=\"When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad.\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1993\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-800x531.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-768x510.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-1180x784.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2016_laos-01541copy_custom-642d81cf2b919ce1a1301b5a0379b42e836039a9-520x345.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When chef James Syhabout set out to write his new cookbook, Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes from a Refugee Chef's Isan Thai & Lao Roots, he went back to his mother's home village and sampled a recipe that is not on most American dinner tables: fire ant salad. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of Thai food as we know it — laap, papaya salad — it's originated in Laos, it's actually Lao food,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>James says he spent a lot of hours at his mother's restaurant growing up. Because of that he says he missed a lot of events, such as birthday parties, and play dates while he was washing pots and pans and picking the stems off of chilies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That being said, he loved how stimulating a kitchen could be. The smells, the sounds and getting to learn how to use the tools of the kitchen were all things he enjoyed. By his sophomore year of high school, his mind was made up: He would become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After culinary school, Shyabout moved to Europe and trained in classical French techniques, working in some of the best restaurants in the world. Eventually he got the itch to come back to Oakland, and opened the \u003ca href=\"http://commisrestaurant.com/\">city's only Michelin-starred restaurant, Commis\u003c/a> — serving fancy California cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, he said, nostalgia set in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What got me into cooking in the first place was this food that I crave and miss. It's a shame I that I [didn't] know how to cook it for myself. I didn't feel complete soulfully as a cook,\" Syhabout says. \"Make a perfect ice cream? I can do that. Make bread? I can do that. But make jeow padek? I have no clue.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, Syhabout \u003ca href=\"http://www.hawkerfare.com/\">opened Hawker Fare\u003c/a> in San Francisco in 2011. It's a far more casual place in the Bay Area, serving Lao and Thai street food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3000px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg\" alt=\"Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because "It's the little country that could"\" width=\"3000\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3.jpg 3000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/ewp2014_thailand-1535copy_custom-44134584deee0f18fd0538b719a075b6d671bed3-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3000px) 100vw, 3000px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef James Syhabout says Hawker Fare isn't the definitive Lao cookbook and is in no way meant to be. But he is a champion of Lao food because \"It's the little country that could\" \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger/HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The cookbook it inspired features plenty of exotic-sounding dishes — including rice-fermented cabbage with pig's ear and scallions — but it's not all complicated. One of the simplest recipes in the cookbook involves just three ingredients: a ramen packet, water and an egg. That dish, Syhabout says, makes him feel like a child again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go home after a long day and you're like — I need a hug. So I make some ramen noodles,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the most part, the recipes in the cookbook are made for sharing, being able to serve four, six or eight people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shyabout says writing the book, remembering certain dishes, was like a time machine. Picturing a dish, he could remember \"who was in the room, what was the lighting like, what was the smells, the colors on the walls — all of a sudden I remember those things, immediately.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hawker Fare \u003c/em>isn't the definitive Lao cookbook — and it isn't meant to be. Shyabout simply calls it the \"food about how I grew up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says he is a champion of Lao food because \"it's this little country that could, [and] I always liked the underdogs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says Lao food is an underdog because everybody knows Thai, yet his book is full of cooking that most Americans have not tasted. At least not yet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Book Of 'New Rules' Flows With Tippling Tips To Demystify Wine",
"title": "Book Of 'New Rules' Flows With Tippling Tips To Demystify Wine",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Just in time to worry about all the guests who will descend upon your house for the holidays — or perhaps all the wine you'll want to drink to avoid them — a new book aims to help you soothe your stress while still enjoying wine to the fullest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine writer \u003ca href=\"https://jonbonne.com/\">Jon Bonné's\u003c/a> latest, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/New-Wine-Rules-Genuinely-Everything/dp/039957980X\">\u003cem>The New Rules of Wine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, navigates a complicated wine world by offering tips to ease any trepidation or confusion, and in some cases, even remind you that there are no rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most introductory wine books, Bonné says, cover the basics in a way that \"If you knew anything about wine, you felt like someone was wine-splaining you. You're not trying to become an expert necessarily, you're just trying to figure out how to like wine enough so you can enjoy it in your life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonné gives 89 tips on everything from how to save money (Rule 11: You only need five essential tools for your wine life), talk to a sommelier (Rule 75: Ordering wine is a conversation, not a test) and teaches you how not to ruin wine (Rule 54: Throw away your kitchen wine rack, or Rule 56: Cars are wine killers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He tries to dispel popular myths (Rule 17: Stop worrying about sulfites) and assure you that your obsessions are perfectly fine (Rule 47: You can drink rosé any time of the year.) The pocket-size book nicely organizes other good-to-know topics, such as understanding wine faults, how wine is produced and what kind of glasses to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if wine has been around since the early civilizations, why do we need new rules now? Or have thousands of winemakers, wine critics and sommeliers just failed to communicate effectively?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonné, who is the \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/jon-bonne/\">former wine editor and critic\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, author of \u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em>, and the forthcoming book, \u003cem>The New French Wine\u003c/em> (detect a theme here?), says that with a new generation of wine drinkers and an increasingly diverse dinner menu, much of what we've learned about wine in the past no longer applies. (Even the \u003ca href=\"https://punchdrink.com/articles/stop-fetishizing-expertise-new-wine-rules-jon-bonne/\">role of wine experts\u003c/a> is changing, says Bonné.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I asked him about about his new rules, why he feels there is a need for this book, and where we are as wine drinkers in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On wine's changing image \u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine is still, and I think wrongly viewed, as a very snobby, elitist pursuit, when in fact that's not really how most people drink wine and it's not that fancy of a thing. There's this false divide that people have between the fancy wine that's made in an artisan way, and the supermarket table wine that nobody really pays a lot of attention to. But there's this huge middle that's actually where most people live their wine lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But because everyone's so used to talking about wine as an elitist thing, it's hard to just throw that away and say, \"You know what? This is you enjoying an agriculture product that brings you pleasure, and is a nice aesthetic choice you can make in your life.\" And I think a younger generation of drinkers in America pretty much has this down. They don't see it as snobby or elitist, but their parents did, and so it's getting rid of that rhetoric.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122507\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 311px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/562822626/the-new-wine-rules-a-genuinely-helpful-guide-to-everything-you-need-to-know\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The New Wine Rules A Genuinely Helpful Guide to Everything You Need to Know by Jon Bonne\" width=\"311\" height=\"432\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122507\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85.jpg 311w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85-160x222.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85-240x333.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 311px) 100vw, 311px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/562822626/the-new-wine-rules-a-genuinely-helpful-guide-to-everything-you-need-to-know\">The New Wine Rules\u003c/a>\u003cbr>A Genuinely Helpful Guide to Everything You Need to Know\u003cbr>by Jon Bonne\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how to talk about wine \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are so many words. You see really educated wine people using jargon and deliberate lowbrow language because it's their way of popularizing wine. I've reached a point where it doesn't feel comfortable to me. A lot of wine talk is just complete garbage, and frankly, if you're not going to be a super wine expert, you don't need to know a ton of terms. You don't need to throw the fruit salad out there when you're trying to describe a wine. Just talk in ways that are comfortable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you don't need all those wine gadgets \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People are so inclined to spend money on these bad wine racks, on garbage corkscrews, aeration systems and novelty decanters, most of which do absolutely nothing. Because people tend to be fearful of wine, and feel like they're in over their heads, they don't think through the process of buying stuff that is, for the most part, totally useless and in some cases even going to be damaging to the wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why wine pairing \"rules\" can be disproven \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think born maybe out of the late 1970s and 80s, [there's] this idea that you had to provide a pairing for people, because wine went with food and you had to harmonize and find this mysterious beauty — and that's great. I think that happens sometimes, but I also think most people go about their lives and drink the wine they want to drink, and eat the food they want to eat, and don't freak out about it. In general, things will work relatively well, and there are a lot of pairings that wouldn't fall into the traditional category, with things like Thai food, that have more to do with texture, spice and acidity and less to do with traditional pairings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those traditional pairings were really born out of Western European food traditions, and it's just not how we eat anymore. In this country, as in most countries, there's a real diversity of flavors and cultural influences. To simply think about wine as though you're a French person isn't going to work anymore, because the forms of cooking are different, the spice is different, the balance in the dishes is different. And that's why we put things [in the book] like Beaujolais and falafel, and one of my favorites, which is Loire Cabernet Franc and Szechuan cooking ... which would have no particular reference in traditional wine-pairing literature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122504\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1776px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e.jpg\" alt='Author Jon Bonné says that while wine can be confusing, \"Nothing fits easily into the old small categories, so just embrace the chaos.\"' width=\"1776\" height=\"1331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122504\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e.jpg 1776w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1776px) 100vw, 1776px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Jon Bonné says that while wine can be confusing, \"Nothing fits easily into the old small categories, so just embrace the chaos.\" \u003ccite>(Erik Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On wine's complexities, diversity and assuaging fears\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if you are a wine expert, it still needs to be something that boils down, very simply, to pleasure. In the end, people have to, with clear eyes, see the pleasure that's in wine even with all the many things that complicate it. We have to make sure that people don't see it with fear, because I think fear is what got us into this very messy, somewhat overly simplistic place that wine was in 10 or 15 years ago, and I think that's not part of wine's future. There's this huge, diverse wine world out there, and these little boxes that people used to put things into just don't work. The big rule is to stop thinking about the boxes, stop worrying about taxonomy, and just accept that it's kind of confusing. On this spectrum, nothing fits easily into the old small categories, so just embrace the chaos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the one rule he wants his readers to remember \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If I can achieve nothing else, if I can get everyone to throw out their horrible winged corkscrews and just buy \u003ca href=\"https://gizmodo.com/5878740/the-waiters-friend-the-only-tool-you-need-to-get-drunk\">a cheap waiter's friend\u003c/a>, then I feel like I will have made my lifetime contribution to the world of wine. And we will have alleviated untold thousands of hours of frustration across the country just by having people not trying to put these ridiculous badly engineered contraptions onto wine bottles and perform feats of physics that should never have to be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Wine writer Jon Bonné says that the traditional ways of thinking about wine no longer fit today's diversity of flavors and cultural influences — and that drinking it should be mainly about pleasure.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Just in time to worry about all the guests who will descend upon your house for the holidays — or perhaps all the wine you'll want to drink to avoid them — a new book aims to help you soothe your stress while still enjoying wine to the fullest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine writer \u003ca href=\"https://jonbonne.com/\">Jon Bonné's\u003c/a> latest, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/New-Wine-Rules-Genuinely-Everything/dp/039957980X\">\u003cem>The New Rules of Wine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, navigates a complicated wine world by offering tips to ease any trepidation or confusion, and in some cases, even remind you that there are no rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most introductory wine books, Bonné says, cover the basics in a way that \"If you knew anything about wine, you felt like someone was wine-splaining you. You're not trying to become an expert necessarily, you're just trying to figure out how to like wine enough so you can enjoy it in your life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonné gives 89 tips on everything from how to save money (Rule 11: You only need five essential tools for your wine life), talk to a sommelier (Rule 75: Ordering wine is a conversation, not a test) and teaches you how not to ruin wine (Rule 54: Throw away your kitchen wine rack, or Rule 56: Cars are wine killers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He tries to dispel popular myths (Rule 17: Stop worrying about sulfites) and assure you that your obsessions are perfectly fine (Rule 47: You can drink rosé any time of the year.) The pocket-size book nicely organizes other good-to-know topics, such as understanding wine faults, how wine is produced and what kind of glasses to use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if wine has been around since the early civilizations, why do we need new rules now? Or have thousands of winemakers, wine critics and sommeliers just failed to communicate effectively?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bonné, who is the \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/jon-bonne/\">former wine editor and critic\u003c/a> for the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, author of \u003cem>The New California Wine\u003c/em>, and the forthcoming book, \u003cem>The New French Wine\u003c/em> (detect a theme here?), says that with a new generation of wine drinkers and an increasingly diverse dinner menu, much of what we've learned about wine in the past no longer applies. (Even the \u003ca href=\"https://punchdrink.com/articles/stop-fetishizing-expertise-new-wine-rules-jon-bonne/\">role of wine experts\u003c/a> is changing, says Bonné.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I asked him about about his new rules, why he feels there is a need for this book, and where we are as wine drinkers in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On wine's changing image \u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine is still, and I think wrongly viewed, as a very snobby, elitist pursuit, when in fact that's not really how most people drink wine and it's not that fancy of a thing. There's this false divide that people have between the fancy wine that's made in an artisan way, and the supermarket table wine that nobody really pays a lot of attention to. But there's this huge middle that's actually where most people live their wine lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But because everyone's so used to talking about wine as an elitist thing, it's hard to just throw that away and say, \"You know what? This is you enjoying an agriculture product that brings you pleasure, and is a nice aesthetic choice you can make in your life.\" And I think a younger generation of drinkers in America pretty much has this down. They don't see it as snobby or elitist, but their parents did, and so it's getting rid of that rhetoric.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122507\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 311px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/562822626/the-new-wine-rules-a-genuinely-helpful-guide-to-everything-you-need-to-know\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The New Wine Rules A Genuinely Helpful Guide to Everything You Need to Know by Jon Bonne\" width=\"311\" height=\"432\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122507\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85.jpg 311w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85-160x222.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/9780399579806_custom-84cb258557b6caff8b67c95153fd1c7053403dc3-s700-c85-240x333.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 311px) 100vw, 311px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/562822626/the-new-wine-rules-a-genuinely-helpful-guide-to-everything-you-need-to-know\">The New Wine Rules\u003c/a>\u003cbr>A Genuinely Helpful Guide to Everything You Need to Know\u003cbr>by Jon Bonne\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how to talk about wine \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are so many words. You see really educated wine people using jargon and deliberate lowbrow language because it's their way of popularizing wine. I've reached a point where it doesn't feel comfortable to me. A lot of wine talk is just complete garbage, and frankly, if you're not going to be a super wine expert, you don't need to know a ton of terms. You don't need to throw the fruit salad out there when you're trying to describe a wine. Just talk in ways that are comfortable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you don't need all those wine gadgets \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People are so inclined to spend money on these bad wine racks, on garbage corkscrews, aeration systems and novelty decanters, most of which do absolutely nothing. Because people tend to be fearful of wine, and feel like they're in over their heads, they don't think through the process of buying stuff that is, for the most part, totally useless and in some cases even going to be damaging to the wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why wine pairing \"rules\" can be disproven \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think born maybe out of the late 1970s and 80s, [there's] this idea that you had to provide a pairing for people, because wine went with food and you had to harmonize and find this mysterious beauty — and that's great. I think that happens sometimes, but I also think most people go about their lives and drink the wine they want to drink, and eat the food they want to eat, and don't freak out about it. In general, things will work relatively well, and there are a lot of pairings that wouldn't fall into the traditional category, with things like Thai food, that have more to do with texture, spice and acidity and less to do with traditional pairings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those traditional pairings were really born out of Western European food traditions, and it's just not how we eat anymore. In this country, as in most countries, there's a real diversity of flavors and cultural influences. To simply think about wine as though you're a French person isn't going to work anymore, because the forms of cooking are different, the spice is different, the balance in the dishes is different. And that's why we put things [in the book] like Beaujolais and falafel, and one of my favorites, which is Loire Cabernet Franc and Szechuan cooking ... which would have no particular reference in traditional wine-pairing literature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122504\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1776px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e.jpg\" alt='Author Jon Bonné says that while wine can be confusing, \"Nothing fits easily into the old small categories, so just embrace the chaos.\"' width=\"1776\" height=\"1331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122504\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e.jpg 1776w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/jonboone-1-c97d80458dae3bbec7ce17a9d4f7e5416cf3688e-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1776px) 100vw, 1776px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Author Jon Bonné says that while wine can be confusing, \"Nothing fits easily into the old small categories, so just embrace the chaos.\" \u003ccite>(Erik Castro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On wine's complexities, diversity and assuaging fears\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even if you are a wine expert, it still needs to be something that boils down, very simply, to pleasure. In the end, people have to, with clear eyes, see the pleasure that's in wine even with all the many things that complicate it. We have to make sure that people don't see it with fear, because I think fear is what got us into this very messy, somewhat overly simplistic place that wine was in 10 or 15 years ago, and I think that's not part of wine's future. There's this huge, diverse wine world out there, and these little boxes that people used to put things into just don't work. The big rule is to stop thinking about the boxes, stop worrying about taxonomy, and just accept that it's kind of confusing. On this spectrum, nothing fits easily into the old small categories, so just embrace the chaos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the one rule he wants his readers to remember \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If I can achieve nothing else, if I can get everyone to throw out their horrible winged corkscrews and just buy \u003ca href=\"https://gizmodo.com/5878740/the-waiters-friend-the-only-tool-you-need-to-get-drunk\">a cheap waiter's friend\u003c/a>, then I feel like I will have made my lifetime contribution to the world of wine. And we will have alleviated untold thousands of hours of frustration across the country just by having people not trying to put these ridiculous badly engineered contraptions onto wine bottles and perform feats of physics that should never have to be. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "In New Cookbook, Acclaimed Indian Restaurant Rasika Finally Spills Its Secrets",
"title": "In New Cookbook, Acclaimed Indian Restaurant Rasika Finally Spills Its Secrets",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/10/20171018_atc_in_new_cookbook_acclaimed_indian_restaurant_finally_spills_its_secrets.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika, an Indian restaurant in Washington, D.C., has won just about every recognition possible. \u003cem>The Washington Post\u003c/em> called it the No. 1 restaurant in the city. The chef has won a James Beard award — basically the Oscars of the food world. President Obama celebrated his birthday there — twice. And though the place has been open for more than a decade, it is only just now coming out with a cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121834\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 308px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rasika Flavors of India by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\" width=\"308\" height=\"389\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg 308w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-240x303.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 308px) 100vw, 308px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/558585080/rasika-flavors-of-india\">Rasika\u003c/a>\u003cbr>Flavors of India\u003cbr>by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rasika's owner, Ashok Bajaj, has run high-end restaurants in Washington since the 1980s — places where you might spot a senator or even the president. He had a fancy Indian restaurant in London, called Bombay Brasserie, but when he first tried to do something similar in D.C., he ran into walls. Every landlord told his location scout, \"We don't want our lobby to smell like curry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And I would say, put me in front of the landlord, let me talk to them,\" Bajaj says. \"It is no different than an Italian restaurant or an American restaurant, where you use a lot of garlic and other spices. And see how the cuisine has changed now? In most American restaurants, they use Indian spices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika takes a modern approach to traditional Indian flavors. The cookbook, \u003cem>Rasika: Flavors of India\u003c/em>, has recipes for Kerala bison and rhubarb chutney. Traditional flavor combinations get a modern twist. A classic dish of eggplant and potatoes comes stacked in an elegant tower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One trick of the cookbook is that a lot of stuff can be made in advance: Marinade the eggplant, mash the potatoes, simmer the sauce. When it's time to actually make dinner, it just takes a few minutes to heat and assemble everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Rasika's most popular dish, \u003cem>palak chaat\u003c/em>, needs to be prepared the moment before it's served. \u003cem>Palak\u003c/em> means spinach. \u003cem>Chaat\u003c/em> is a Hindi word for a bunch of different flavorful snacks. The restaurant has never revealed the recipe for the famous crispy spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Vikram Sunderam says they were always waiting for the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in the Rasika kitchen, he agrees to show us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important step in the dish is the frying,\" Sunderam says, explaining that the oil needs to be exactly 400 degrees — more and the spinach will burn, less and it'll get greasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also makes a beautiful yellow-orange batter with gram flour, turmeric and chili powder. He pours this over the spinach, almost like a salad dressing, and lightly tosses it. Once the spinach is perfectly crispy, it gets a cascade of toppings, including roasted cumin powder, chili powder and black salt; drizzles of yogurt and tamarind chutney; and sprinkles of chopped red onion and tomatoes. The restaurant makes about 200 bowls of this a day — every other table orders it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunderam tried to do something similar at a London restaurant, but it wasn't a hit. \"It wasn't as popular as it is here,\" he says. \"From day one it took off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think Americans are more adventurous,\" he says. \"They're more appreciative of the food and dishes like these, which are different.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121830\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/fullsizerender_vert-87a07504f84d232308281d0e35a353c26d15ced8-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, palak chaat, or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-large wp-image-121830\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, \u003cem>palak chaat,\u003c/em> or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam. \u003ccite>(Ari Shapiro/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And in Indian cuisine, there is plenty of room for adventure and creativity. \"Indian cuisine is a very personal cuisine. It's made from family to family, how they like to cook,\" says Sunderam. \"So there is the basic foundation of a dish, but it's always personalized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the sheer number of ingredients in Indian recipes can be daunting to home cooks. But Bajaj says it isn't difficult if you have the right pantry at home. Sunderam agrees, pointing out that the book helps with setting up an Indian pantry, with basic spices like cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, turmeric and cumin — all of which are widely used in Indian recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Bajaj: \"Don't be afraid of the spices!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bajaj says the acceptance of Indian food is generally much wider than it used to be when he opened his first restaurant more than 25 years ago. He credits this partly to the explosion of the Internet, but also says that many people are now traveling to India and coming back with a new appreciation for the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he says that younger generations are more open to trying foods of other cultures. \"They want to have an experience, and it doesn't have to be a French cuisine, or American or Italian. It can be any cuisine, as long as it has the flavor and the taste — the whole package is there.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Rasika, a top eatery in Washington, D.C., is famous for its crispy spinach and modern twists on classic dishes. Now the owner and chef are sharing some of their prized — and adventurous — recipes.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika, an Indian restaurant in Washington, D.C., has won just about every recognition possible. \u003cem>The Washington Post\u003c/em> called it the No. 1 restaurant in the city. The chef has won a James Beard award — basically the Oscars of the food world. President Obama celebrated his birthday there — twice. And though the place has been open for more than a decade, it is only just now coming out with a cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121834\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 308px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rasika Flavors of India by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\" width=\"308\" height=\"389\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85.jpg 308w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9780062435552_custom-ed5737aed1cebaf26d2361eb4e9ad3f8e5dcd180-s500-c85-240x303.jpg 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 308px) 100vw, 308px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/558585080/rasika-flavors-of-india\">Rasika\u003c/a>\u003cbr>Flavors of India\u003cbr>by Ashok Bajaj, Vikram Sunderam and David Hagedorn\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rasika's owner, Ashok Bajaj, has run high-end restaurants in Washington since the 1980s — places where you might spot a senator or even the president. He had a fancy Indian restaurant in London, called Bombay Brasserie, but when he first tried to do something similar in D.C., he ran into walls. Every landlord told his location scout, \"We don't want our lobby to smell like curry.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And I would say, put me in front of the landlord, let me talk to them,\" Bajaj says. \"It is no different than an Italian restaurant or an American restaurant, where you use a lot of garlic and other spices. And see how the cuisine has changed now? In most American restaurants, they use Indian spices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasika takes a modern approach to traditional Indian flavors. The cookbook, \u003cem>Rasika: Flavors of India\u003c/em>, has recipes for Kerala bison and rhubarb chutney. Traditional flavor combinations get a modern twist. A classic dish of eggplant and potatoes comes stacked in an elegant tower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One trick of the cookbook is that a lot of stuff can be made in advance: Marinade the eggplant, mash the potatoes, simmer the sauce. When it's time to actually make dinner, it just takes a few minutes to heat and assemble everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Rasika's most popular dish, \u003cem>palak chaat\u003c/em>, needs to be prepared the moment before it's served. \u003cem>Palak\u003c/em> means spinach. \u003cem>Chaat\u003c/em> is a Hindi word for a bunch of different flavorful snacks. The restaurant has never revealed the recipe for the famous crispy spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Vikram Sunderam says they were always waiting for the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in the Rasika kitchen, he agrees to show us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important step in the dish is the frying,\" Sunderam says, explaining that the oil needs to be exactly 400 degrees — more and the spinach will burn, less and it'll get greasy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also makes a beautiful yellow-orange batter with gram flour, turmeric and chili powder. He pours this over the spinach, almost like a salad dressing, and lightly tosses it. Once the spinach is perfectly crispy, it gets a cascade of toppings, including roasted cumin powder, chili powder and black salt; drizzles of yogurt and tamarind chutney; and sprinkles of chopped red onion and tomatoes. The restaurant makes about 200 bowls of this a day — every other table orders it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunderam tried to do something similar at a London restaurant, but it wasn't a hit. \"It wasn't as popular as it is here,\" he says. \"From day one it took off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think Americans are more adventurous,\" he says. \"They're more appreciative of the food and dishes like these, which are different.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121830\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/fullsizerender_vert-87a07504f84d232308281d0e35a353c26d15ced8-1020x1360.jpg\" alt=\"On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, palak chaat, or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-large wp-image-121830\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On any given day, about half of the restaurant's patrons orders one of Rasika's specialties, \u003cem>palak chaat,\u003c/em> or crispy spinach. The secret is in the frying, says Sunderam. \u003ccite>(Ari Shapiro/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And in Indian cuisine, there is plenty of room for adventure and creativity. \"Indian cuisine is a very personal cuisine. It's made from family to family, how they like to cook,\" says Sunderam. \"So there is the basic foundation of a dish, but it's always personalized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, the sheer number of ingredients in Indian recipes can be daunting to home cooks. But Bajaj says it isn't difficult if you have the right pantry at home. Sunderam agrees, pointing out that the book helps with setting up an Indian pantry, with basic spices like cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, turmeric and cumin — all of which are widely used in Indian recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Bajaj: \"Don't be afraid of the spices!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bajaj says the acceptance of Indian food is generally much wider than it used to be when he opened his first restaurant more than 25 years ago. He credits this partly to the explosion of the Internet, but also says that many people are now traveling to India and coming back with a new appreciation for the cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And he says that younger generations are more open to trying foods of other cultures. \"They want to have an experience, and it doesn't have to be a French cuisine, or American or Italian. It can be any cuisine, as long as it has the flavor and the taste — the whole package is there.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook",
"title": "A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook",
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"content": "\u003cp>Although she'd never cooked until her early thirties, food was always an integral part of Archana Pidathala's life. The author of the self-published cookbook, \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, shortlisted earlier this year for the 2017 \u003ca href=\"https://artofeating.com/prize/?pgnc=1\">Art of Eating Prize\u003c/a>, cherishes memories of long, languid summers spent at her grandmother's home in the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother, Nirmala Reddy, a cookbook author herself, asked her grandchildren every day what they wanted to eat for each meal. \"She never once complained or felt overwhelmed by the incredible amount of cooking she did for us. And she always prepared all the dishes we asked for,\" recalls Pidathala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pidathala says her favorite recipes from \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em> have the power to instantly transport her to back those blissful summer afternoons. Sometimes, she would watch as her grandmother chopped vegetables and crushed spices on a stone pestle, releasing a fragrance that stirred her appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>pachchi pulusu\u003c/em> (a tangy peanut stew), the \u003cem>anapaginjala pulusu\u003c/em> (a hyacinth bean curry that her grandma loved) and her own personal favorite, the \u003cem>ulava charu\u003c/em> (a slow-cooked, thick stew made from horse gram beans) were the flavors of her childhood. It was the eggplant biryani, however, that always brought home to her the ingenuity of her grandmother's cooking. \"It was perfected after years of trial and improvisation,\" she says. \"No special occasion in our family is complete without serving this dish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1049\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121463\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The biryani calls for a rich curry thickened by sesame seeds, dried coconut and an array of Indian spices. The curry is then stuffed into an eggplant and slow-cooked. It turns out intensely aromatic, surprisingly light and bursting with flavor and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At mealtimes during those summer afternoons in Hyderabad, Pidathala remembers gathering the children of her family close while her grandmother lovingly ladled food onto one large plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal eating in this way wasn't uncommon in India. It happens in many families, though it is getting rarer today,\" Pidathala says. \"These early experiences brought home to me how food can nourish the soul as much as the body, how it can create enduring bonds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The five morsels in the book's title refers to these cousins, who bonded over such exquisite meals. They're represented in the recurring motif of the five grains of rice that prance across the soft yellow cloth-bound cover like snowflakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother's death in 2007, barely nine weeks after she was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, devastated the family. Pidathala, who had recently moved hundreds of miles away to Bengaluru to begin a career in IT, particularly reeled after the loss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had always promised her we'd work together on an English translation of her cookbook, written in Telugu [a language native to Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana],\" says Pidathala. The simple paperback had seen three print runs since it was published in 1974. It was the kind of book that emigrants sought to carry back with them overseas. By offering an authentic taste of home, it helped them ache less for what they'd left behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Ammamma\u003c/em>, as I called her, had always wanted to reach out to a much wider audience, but I thought I had all the time in the world to make that happen,\" Pidathala says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121464\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg\" alt=\"Today, Pidathala, author of <em>Five Morsels of Love</em>, is also an accomplished chef. "Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking," she says.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121464\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Today, Pidathala, author of \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, is also an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She spent the next few years immersed in the hundreds of recipes that her grandmother had painstakingly documented. They were everywhere — including on the backs of medical prescriptions and withered wedding invitations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Deciding to translate parts of the original cookbook first, she added recipes that were childhood favorites. However, she struggled to quantify ingredients — something that her grandmother, like most other Indian cooks, did with instinctive ease. \"I had no idea that recipe writing could be so nuanced,\" Pidathala laughs. \"It was a fascinating journey, and every day, I was learning something new. But I had to measure and cook each recipe several times to perfect it. For someone who had never cooked before — that was the real challenge.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2013, with help from a friend, Bengaluru-based food blogger Chinmayie Bhat (who shot the photos for the book), she tried out dozens of recipes over the weekends. When the cook who had her helped her grandmother through the years visited Pidathala, the trio made a formidable team — they prepared and photographed 60 dishes in 5 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And remarkably, a book that focuses on a tiny slice of Indian cuisine — the fiery, chili-laden food native to the state of Andhra Pradesh — soon made an impression on people from around the world after it was self-published in May 2016. Pidathala personally shipped the book to readers in 40 countries. It was also stocked internationally by niche and indie bookstores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chen Kariv, a graphic designer and her friend, Hili Enzel, a high school teacher, were the first from Tel Aviv, Israel, to order the book from the author's web site. \"Hili and I are food enthusiasts, and cooking meals is our way of hanging out together,\" says Kariv. \"At first it was a challenge to identify all the special ingredients. It was a very different [cuisine] from what we know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The duo were soon cooking for their friends. \"It's a great way to explore other cultures, by trying to learn their flavors,\" says Kariv.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Pidathala is an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she ponders over writing a second cookbook, culled from her grandmother's notes over the years, she's grateful for reclaiming the kitchen as a place that embodies creativity, self-expression and love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kamala Thiagarajan is a freelance journalist based in Madurai, South India. Her work has appeared in \u003c/em>The International New York Times\u003cem>, \u003c/em>BBC Travel\u003cem> and \u003c/em>Forbes India. \u003cem>You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/kamal_t?lang=en\">@kamal_t\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "The author of Five Morsels of Love fondly remembers summers at her grandmother's house, where home-cooked meals nourished both body and soul. Now, she wants to share that culinary passion with others.",
"title": "A Granddaughter's Powerful Love Story, Told Through An Indian Cookbook | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Although she'd never cooked until her early thirties, food was always an integral part of Archana Pidathala's life. The author of the self-published cookbook, \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, shortlisted earlier this year for the 2017 \u003ca href=\"https://artofeating.com/prize/?pgnc=1\">Art of Eating Prize\u003c/a>, cherishes memories of long, languid summers spent at her grandmother's home in the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother, Nirmala Reddy, a cookbook author herself, asked her grandchildren every day what they wanted to eat for each meal. \"She never once complained or felt overwhelmed by the incredible amount of cooking she did for us. And she always prepared all the dishes we asked for,\" recalls Pidathala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pidathala says her favorite recipes from \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em> have the power to instantly transport her to back those blissful summer afternoons. Sometimes, she would watch as her grandmother chopped vegetables and crushed spices on a stone pestle, releasing a fragrance that stirred her appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>pachchi pulusu\u003c/em> (a tangy peanut stew), the \u003cem>anapaginjala pulusu\u003c/em> (a hyacinth bean curry that her grandma loved) and her own personal favorite, the \u003cem>ulava charu\u003c/em> (a slow-cooked, thick stew made from horse gram beans) were the flavors of her childhood. It was the eggplant biryani, however, that always brought home to her the ingenuity of her grandmother's cooking. \"It was perfected after years of trial and improvisation,\" she says. \"No special occasion in our family is complete without serving this dish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121463\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood.\" width=\"1400\" height=\"1049\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121463\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-800x599.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-768x575.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/thisone-103e0869842e07495ee9405a2a21c52ed0cad7cd-s1400-c85-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: Stuffed eggplant. Right: Ulava Charu. These traditional dishes represent the tastes of Pidathala's childhood. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The biryani calls for a rich curry thickened by sesame seeds, dried coconut and an array of Indian spices. The curry is then stuffed into an eggplant and slow-cooked. It turns out intensely aromatic, surprisingly light and bursting with flavor and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At mealtimes during those summer afternoons in Hyderabad, Pidathala remembers gathering the children of her family close while her grandmother lovingly ladled food onto one large plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal eating in this way wasn't uncommon in India. It happens in many families, though it is getting rarer today,\" Pidathala says. \"These early experiences brought home to me how food can nourish the soul as much as the body, how it can create enduring bonds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The five morsels in the book's title refers to these cousins, who bonded over such exquisite meals. They're represented in the recurring motif of the five grains of rice that prance across the soft yellow cloth-bound cover like snowflakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandmother's death in 2007, barely nine weeks after she was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, devastated the family. Pidathala, who had recently moved hundreds of miles away to Bengaluru to begin a career in IT, particularly reeled after the loss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had always promised her we'd work together on an English translation of her cookbook, written in Telugu [a language native to Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana],\" says Pidathala. The simple paperback had seen three print runs since it was published in 1974. It was the kind of book that emigrants sought to carry back with them overseas. By offering an authentic taste of home, it helped them ache less for what they'd left behind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Ammamma\u003c/em>, as I called her, had always wanted to reach out to a much wider audience, but I thought I had all the time in the world to make that happen,\" Pidathala says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_121464\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg\" alt=\"Today, Pidathala, author of <em>Five Morsels of Love</em>, is also an accomplished chef. "Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking," she says.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-121464\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400.jpg 1400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/9_author_shot_pc_balazs_glodi_vert-cb270c09dd108ba8be86b543fb1b86a0f52067cb-s1400-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1400px) 100vw, 1400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Today, Pidathala, author of \u003cem>Five Morsels of Love\u003c/em>, is also an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Archana Pidathala)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She spent the next few years immersed in the hundreds of recipes that her grandmother had painstakingly documented. They were everywhere — including on the backs of medical prescriptions and withered wedding invitations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Deciding to translate parts of the original cookbook first, she added recipes that were childhood favorites. However, she struggled to quantify ingredients — something that her grandmother, like most other Indian cooks, did with instinctive ease. \"I had no idea that recipe writing could be so nuanced,\" Pidathala laughs. \"It was a fascinating journey, and every day, I was learning something new. But I had to measure and cook each recipe several times to perfect it. For someone who had never cooked before — that was the real challenge.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2013, with help from a friend, Bengaluru-based food blogger Chinmayie Bhat (who shot the photos for the book), she tried out dozens of recipes over the weekends. When the cook who had her helped her grandmother through the years visited Pidathala, the trio made a formidable team — they prepared and photographed 60 dishes in 5 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And remarkably, a book that focuses on a tiny slice of Indian cuisine — the fiery, chili-laden food native to the state of Andhra Pradesh — soon made an impression on people from around the world after it was self-published in May 2016. Pidathala personally shipped the book to readers in 40 countries. It was also stocked internationally by niche and indie bookstores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chen Kariv, a graphic designer and her friend, Hili Enzel, a high school teacher, were the first from Tel Aviv, Israel, to order the book from the author's web site. \"Hili and I are food enthusiasts, and cooking meals is our way of hanging out together,\" says Kariv. \"At first it was a challenge to identify all the special ingredients. It was a very different [cuisine] from what we know.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The duo were soon cooking for their friends. \"It's a great way to explore other cultures, by trying to learn their flavors,\" says Kariv.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Pidathala is an accomplished chef. \"Although I began this journey to honor my grandmother's memory, along the way, I discovered her passion for cooking,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she ponders over writing a second cookbook, culled from her grandmother's notes over the years, she's grateful for reclaiming the kitchen as a place that embodies creativity, self-expression and love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kamala Thiagarajan is a freelance journalist based in Madurai, South India. Her work has appeared in \u003c/em>The International New York Times\u003cem>, \u003c/em>BBC Travel\u003cem> and \u003c/em>Forbes India. \u003cem>You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/kamal_t?lang=en\">@kamal_t\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
"airtime": "THU 10pm, FRI 1am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"meta": {
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"source": "Commonwealth Club of California"
},
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw",
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"id": "forum",
"title": "Forum",
"tagline": "The conversation starts here",
"info": "KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal",
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"order": 9
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"id": "freakonomics-radio",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "http://freakonomics.com/",
"airtime": "SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm",
"meta": {
"site": "radio",
"source": "WNYC"
},
"link": "/radio/program/freakonomics-radio",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/",
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},
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"info": "A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.",
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},
"hidden-brain": {
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"info": "Shankar Vedantam uses science and storytelling to reveal the unconscious patterns that drive human behavior, shape our choices and direct our relationships.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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"source": "NPR"
},
"link": "/radio/program/hidden-brain",
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},
"how-i-built-this": {
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"title": "How I Built This with Guy Raz",
"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/howIBuiltThis.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510313/how-i-built-this",
"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
"meta": {
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},
"link": "/radio/program/how-i-built-this",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-i-built-this-with-guy-raz/id1150510297?mt=2",
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"hyphenacion": {
"id": "hyphenacion",
"title": "Hyphenación",
"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/03/Hyphenacion_FinalAssets_PodcastTile.png",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/hyphenacion",
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"order": 15
},
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/2p3Fifq96nw9BPcmFdIq0o?si=39209f7b25774f38",
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},
"jerrybrown": {
"id": "jerrybrown",
"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
"meta": {
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"order": 18
},
"link": "/podcasts/jerrybrown",
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}
},
"latino-usa": {
"id": "latino-usa",
"title": "Latino USA",
"airtime": "MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm",
"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "http://latinousa.org/",
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"link": "/radio/program/latino-usa",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"
}
},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
"meta": {
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"source": "American Public Media"
},
"link": "/radio/program/marketplace",
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://mastersofscale.com/",
"meta": {
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"source": "WaitWhat"
},
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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}
},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3am-9am",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/",
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"link": "/radio/program/morning-edition"
},
"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "On Our Watch from NPR and KQED",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962",
"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
}
},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
"title": "PBS NewsHour",
"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/",
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"source": "pbs"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Perspectives",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives",
"rss": "https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/",
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},
"planet-money": {
"id": "planet-money",
"title": "Planet Money",
"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/sections/money/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/Business--Economics-Podcasts/Planet-Money-p164680/",
"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
}
},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED Political Breakdown",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 5
},
"link": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/e0c2d153-ad36-4c8d-901d-f1da6a724824/political-breakdown",
"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/572155894/political-breakdown",
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