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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Journalist Gabriel Thompson collected the stories of 17 farmworkers who share the day-to-day struggles of life in the fields.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For his 2011 book \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Working-Shadows-Year-Doing-Americans/dp/1568586388\">Working in the Shadows\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, journalist Gabriel Thompson spent a year doing “jobs (most) Americans won’t do.” Among these was a several-month stint harvesting lettuce alongside often-undocumented Latino immigrants. During that time, and while reporting other farmworker and labor stories, Thompson was struck by the resilience and skill he observed in the fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An estimated 800,000 farmworkers in California make up over one-third of the national agricultural workforce. In his new book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Harvest-Migrant-California-Agriculture/dp/1786632217\">Chasing the Harvest: Migrant Workers in California Agriculture\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Thompson shares the oral histories of 17 farmworkers, who, in their own words, provide a “birth-to-now” narrative explaining how they got to the U.S. and what their lives have been like ever since. (Civil Eats has also published \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/08/17/excerpt-chasing-the-harvest/\">an excerpt from the book\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While each oral history provides an intimate portrait, taken as a whole, these stories also underscore the importance of exposing the day-to-day struggles of life in the fields. This is especially true given how little protection most farmworkers have when reporting unsafe or unfair working conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Thompson recently about his new book, fear among farmworkers under the Trump administration, and what gives him hope.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What did you hope this book would bring to light?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120076\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Gabriel Thompson\" width=\"400\" height=\"507\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120076\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo-160x203.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo-240x304.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo-375x475.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gabriel Thompson \u003ccite>(Pandora Young)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since we are often deeply disconnected from farmworkers, in terms of being far away from the fields and usually not knowing any personally, the book is a way to invite these 17 people into the readers’ living rooms and listen as they talk about their lives. As a journalist, I usually have to focus on whatever topic I’ve been assigned and usually those topics are pretty negative, such as pesticide poisoning or wage theft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all real issues, but over the course of the last 10 years, I’ve also realized that most people have a lot more to say about their lives than their experiences with the one topic I’m there to discuss. The oral history format of this book works really well because it allows the narrators to take the conversations where they want. I enjoyed taking a step back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What surprised you about these interviews?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing that surprised me was how quickly people opened up. Often, within an hour or so, people were sharing very intimate details of their lives. And, by the end of many of these long conversations, several people also told me that they’d never talked about a lot of this before. That was striking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of farm work, I was surprised that the drought was not on very many people’s minds. In California in particular, there have been a lot of stories about the drought and about jobs being lost in the fields. But it turns out that while there were some shifts in the kinds of crops that were harvested, the drought really didn’t come up much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Otherwise, while farmworkers have a lot of things pushing down on them—they’re travelling, they’re poor, they’re often undocumented—they also have this whole ecosystem of people and agencies supporting them. For the book, I interviewed an elementary school teacher who teaches migrant kids and who himself had grown up working in the fields. I also interviewed someone who runs a migrant Head Start program. And I came to understand that there are these networks of support that are critical for farmworkers and without which their already very challenging lives would become that much more so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You write that consistent education for farmworkers’ children has emerged as a pressing need. Can you say more?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Chasing The Harvest\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-120077\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There wasn’t a single parent I spoke to who wasn’t focused on their kids’ education, which is not unique to farm work and goes back to a deeper motivation to come to the U.S. But for as much as all the parents in the book wanted their children to go to college, they also wanted their kids to understand how important being a farmworker was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One family in the book —a mom, dad, and daughter—does a joint oral history and the daughter was just finishing college but the dad was illiterate. Guadelupe, the young woman, talks about how working in the grape fields was an incredible learning experience for her. She came back from school, over four or five summers, to work in the fields, and her parents thought that was really important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s this tendency to tell the story of education as if young people need to get out of the fields, as if working in the fields is a waste of time. But while pretty much all the farmworkers I spoke to did not want their kids to stay in the fields for the next 30 years, they did want their kids to know that farm work was valuable. They wanted their kids to understand that when you have a salad, someone bent over and harvested that lettuce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In the introduction, you reference the 1965-1970 grape boycott, and the fact that more than 17 million Americans participated in order to support unionized farmworkers. What would you like to see American consumers stand up for today?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s tough since you can’t just go to the grocery store and say, “I want the union produce.” But campaigns that support all low-wage workers, like boosting the minimum wage, definitely translate into better conditions in the fields. Things like the Coalition of Immokalee Workers’ \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairfoodprogram.org/\">Fair Food Program\u003c/a> have been really successful in building national consciousness around where food comes from, as well as involving farmers and farmworkers at the local level. What made the UFW grape boycott so strong was that you had workers in the field who were then also going into cities to talk about the work they did; it wasn’t just a consumer thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You conducted these interviews in 2016, before the election. What’s your sense of how the day-to-day has changed for farmworkers under this administration?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s an incredible amount of fear. For example, one of the narrators in the book runs a migrant Head Start program in the Coachella Valley. When I initially visited her, the program was running at capacity, with 200 families on their waiting list. Childcare is always a huge issue for farmworkers and this program was very much in demand. But when I visited her after the election, this same program had closed one of their classrooms, due to a lack of kids and a recruiter was going door-to-door, trying to drum up more applicants. All around the Coachella Valley, where something like 99 percent of residents are of Latino descent, people aren’t going to church as much, they’re not going anywhere as much, which they definitely attribute to fear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are several people in the book who are undocumented. When I interviewed them, I asked if they wanted to use a pseudonym, but I was always told, “No, it’s fine. I want to use my real name.” But when I reached out to them again, in late November, right before the book went to press, they all decided to take a pseudonym. There’s always been insecurity, but now people feel that something much larger might happen, and they’re pulling away from those networks of support.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Having completed this project, what are you feeling hopeful about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s important to note that many farmworkers enjoy their work. Just like any job, there are parts of it that they’d rather do without, but they aren’t just miserable the whole time in the fields. And if people don’t realize that, then they miss out on a big part of the story. Despite being, in some ways, quite easy to exploit, farmworkers also stand up for one another. Something like confronting the abuse of a supervisor might be a relatively small thing that happens every day, but there is real solidarity among workers in the fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A number of years ago, I spent two months working in the lettuce fields of Yuma, Arizona, and I saw that when a member of a crew had relative die and wanted to ship the body back to Mexico, folks would open up their wallets and give whatever they had. I don’t want to imply that farm work is the best job in the world, but I do want to be clear that many workers are empowered by the work they do, and they look out for one another. That’s going to be, especially over the next couple of year, what gets people through.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Journalist Gabriel Thompson collected the stories of 17 farmworkers who share the day-to-day struggles of life in the fields.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For his 2011 book \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Working-Shadows-Year-Doing-Americans/dp/1568586388\">Working in the Shadows\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, journalist Gabriel Thompson spent a year doing “jobs (most) Americans won’t do.” Among these was a several-month stint harvesting lettuce alongside often-undocumented Latino immigrants. During that time, and while reporting other farmworker and labor stories, Thompson was struck by the resilience and skill he observed in the fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An estimated 800,000 farmworkers in California make up over one-third of the national agricultural workforce. In his new book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Harvest-Migrant-California-Agriculture/dp/1786632217\">Chasing the Harvest: Migrant Workers in California Agriculture\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Thompson shares the oral histories of 17 farmworkers, who, in their own words, provide a “birth-to-now” narrative explaining how they got to the U.S. and what their lives have been like ever since. (Civil Eats has also published \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2017/08/17/excerpt-chasing-the-harvest/\">an excerpt from the book\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While each oral history provides an intimate portrait, taken as a whole, these stories also underscore the importance of exposing the day-to-day struggles of life in the fields. This is especially true given how little protection most farmworkers have when reporting unsafe or unfair working conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Thompson recently about his new book, fear among farmworkers under the Trump administration, and what gives him hope.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What did you hope this book would bring to light?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120076\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Gabriel Thompson\" width=\"400\" height=\"507\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120076\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo-160x203.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo-240x304.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-author-photo-375x475.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gabriel Thompson \u003ccite>(Pandora Young)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since we are often deeply disconnected from farmworkers, in terms of being far away from the fields and usually not knowing any personally, the book is a way to invite these 17 people into the readers’ living rooms and listen as they talk about their lives. As a journalist, I usually have to focus on whatever topic I’ve been assigned and usually those topics are pretty negative, such as pesticide poisoning or wage theft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all real issues, but over the course of the last 10 years, I’ve also realized that most people have a lot more to say about their lives than their experiences with the one topic I’m there to discuss. The oral history format of this book works really well because it allows the narrators to take the conversations where they want. I enjoyed taking a step back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What surprised you about these interviews?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing that surprised me was how quickly people opened up. Often, within an hour or so, people were sharing very intimate details of their lives. And, by the end of many of these long conversations, several people also told me that they’d never talked about a lot of this before. That was striking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of farm work, I was surprised that the drought was not on very many people’s minds. In California in particular, there have been a lot of stories about the drought and about jobs being lost in the fields. But it turns out that while there were some shifts in the kinds of crops that were harvested, the drought really didn’t come up much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Otherwise, while farmworkers have a lot of things pushing down on them—they’re travelling, they’re poor, they’re often undocumented—they also have this whole ecosystem of people and agencies supporting them. For the book, I interviewed an elementary school teacher who teaches migrant kids and who himself had grown up working in the fields. I also interviewed someone who runs a migrant Head Start program. And I came to understand that there are these networks of support that are critical for farmworkers and without which their already very challenging lives would become that much more so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You write that consistent education for farmworkers’ children has emerged as a pressing need. Can you say more?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Chasing The Harvest\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-120077\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170817-chasing-the-harvest-cover-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There wasn’t a single parent I spoke to who wasn’t focused on their kids’ education, which is not unique to farm work and goes back to a deeper motivation to come to the U.S. But for as much as all the parents in the book wanted their children to go to college, they also wanted their kids to understand how important being a farmworker was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One family in the book —a mom, dad, and daughter—does a joint oral history and the daughter was just finishing college but the dad was illiterate. Guadelupe, the young woman, talks about how working in the grape fields was an incredible learning experience for her. She came back from school, over four or five summers, to work in the fields, and her parents thought that was really important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s this tendency to tell the story of education as if young people need to get out of the fields, as if working in the fields is a waste of time. But while pretty much all the farmworkers I spoke to did not want their kids to stay in the fields for the next 30 years, they did want their kids to know that farm work was valuable. They wanted their kids to understand that when you have a salad, someone bent over and harvested that lettuce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In the introduction, you reference the 1965-1970 grape boycott, and the fact that more than 17 million Americans participated in order to support unionized farmworkers. What would you like to see American consumers stand up for today?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s tough since you can’t just go to the grocery store and say, “I want the union produce.” But campaigns that support all low-wage workers, like boosting the minimum wage, definitely translate into better conditions in the fields. Things like the Coalition of Immokalee Workers’ \u003ca href=\"http://www.fairfoodprogram.org/\">Fair Food Program\u003c/a> have been really successful in building national consciousness around where food comes from, as well as involving farmers and farmworkers at the local level. What made the UFW grape boycott so strong was that you had workers in the field who were then also going into cities to talk about the work they did; it wasn’t just a consumer thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You conducted these interviews in 2016, before the election. What’s your sense of how the day-to-day has changed for farmworkers under this administration?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s an incredible amount of fear. For example, one of the narrators in the book runs a migrant Head Start program in the Coachella Valley. When I initially visited her, the program was running at capacity, with 200 families on their waiting list. Childcare is always a huge issue for farmworkers and this program was very much in demand. But when I visited her after the election, this same program had closed one of their classrooms, due to a lack of kids and a recruiter was going door-to-door, trying to drum up more applicants. All around the Coachella Valley, where something like 99 percent of residents are of Latino descent, people aren’t going to church as much, they’re not going anywhere as much, which they definitely attribute to fear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are several people in the book who are undocumented. When I interviewed them, I asked if they wanted to use a pseudonym, but I was always told, “No, it’s fine. I want to use my real name.” But when I reached out to them again, in late November, right before the book went to press, they all decided to take a pseudonym. There’s always been insecurity, but now people feel that something much larger might happen, and they’re pulling away from those networks of support.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Having completed this project, what are you feeling hopeful about?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s important to note that many farmworkers enjoy their work. Just like any job, there are parts of it that they’d rather do without, but they aren’t just miserable the whole time in the fields. And if people don’t realize that, then they miss out on a big part of the story. Despite being, in some ways, quite easy to exploit, farmworkers also stand up for one another. Something like confronting the abuse of a supervisor might be a relatively small thing that happens every day, but there is real solidarity among workers in the fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Chris Bianco, 'Pizza Yoda,' Is Sharing His Wisdom In A New Cookbook, He Is",
"title": "Chris Bianco, 'Pizza Yoda,' Is Sharing His Wisdom In A New Cookbook, He Is",
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"content": "\u003cp>It's 8 a.m. on a Thursday in the empty dining room of Sessanta, an Italian restaurant in the New York City hotel Sixty SoHo, and Chris Bianco, the Arizona chef widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement, is running on adrenaline and just a few hours of sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh my goodness, it was a cavalcade of who's who,\" Bianco says, with mock seriousness, of the dinner party he flew in from Phoenix to host in this very space the previous evening, to celebrate the July release of his long-awaited first book,\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bianco-Pizza-Pasta-Other-Food/dp/0062224379/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1501686431&sr=1-1&keywords=bianco+pizza%2C+pasta%2C+and+other+food+i+like\">Bianco: Pizza, Pasta, and Other Food I Like\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were a lot of friends,\" from the food world, he says. And possibly \"just some people who were hungry and someone dragged them to the dinner and they probably thought there would be pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bite-sized focaccia squares were the closest thing to pizza on the four-course menu. Likewise, while Bianco's eponymous cookbook includes dough, sauce and pizza recipes, it expands beyond pizza to reflect his evolution as a chef and restaurateur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza, of course, is what put Bianco on the culinary map. Since starting \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/\">Pizzeria Bianco\u003c/a> in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, his thin-crust wood-fired pizza has consistently won accolades. In 2003, Bianco became the first pizza maker to receive a regional James Beard Award (Best Chef, Southwest). \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/07/dining/the-road-to-pizza-nirvana-goes-through-phoenix.html?_r=0\">The New York \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> lauded Bianco for \"making what just might be the best pizza in America.\" Food critic Jeffrey Steingarten, in Ed Levine's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pizza-Slice-Heaven-Ultimate-Companion/dp/B008SMUC0K\">Pizza: A Slice of Heaven\u003c/a>,\u003c/em> went further: \"Chris [Bianco] makes the finest pizzas in the United States and, in all frankness, the world.\" Because of Bianco, the Valley of the Sun has become a mecca for the pizza obsessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in the day, people used to go through my trash to find out what tomatoes we used — 'That must be the secret!' — or the flour — 'That's the secret!,'\" Bianco says, taking a sip of black coffee. \"I was like, dude, you want tomatoes? Here's a can.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you asked me, I told you anything,\" Bianco adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, Bianco has mentored and inspired pizza makers from across the country, including Paul Giannone, of \u003ca href=\"http://pauliegee.com/\">Paulie Gee's\u003c/a>, in Brooklyn; Brandon Pettit, of \u003ca href=\"http://delanceyseattle.com/\">Delancey\u003c/a>, in Seattle; and Nancy Silverton, of \u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriamozza.com/\">Pizzeria Mozza\u003c/a>, in Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119644\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement.\" width=\"600\" height=\"899\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119644\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-375x562.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"He's like a pizza Yoda, Chris is,\" says Adam Kuban, founder of the pizza blog \u003ca href=\"http://slice.seriouseats.com/\">Slice\u003c/a>, which is now part of the website Serious Eats. \"I think when pizza makers go to him, it's not so much how to learn to make pizza, it's just to kind of absorb this knowledge. It's almost like going to a Buddhist temple or something and taking in the knowledge and then applying that knowledge to what you do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Matthew Lyons, of \u003ca href=\"http://tributepizza.com/\">Tribute Pizza\u003c/a>, in San Diego, calls Bianco \"a very amicable cult leader.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just this cult of, like, caring an unreasonable amount about food and ingredients and people,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in the Bronx, Bianco is 55 and stocky, neither tall nor short, with a warm smile and pewter-colored hair that stands up in waves in the style of a mad scientist. He moved to Arizona when he was in his 20s, and in 1988 leased space in a gourmet market in order to start a pizza-making operation. In 1996, Pizzeria Bianco settled into its flagship location, a Prohibition-era red brick building in downtown Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Bianco's realm includes a second Pizzeria Bianco location; \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/bar-bianco/\">Bar Bianco\u003c/a>; the sandwich-focused \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/our-team/\">Pane Bianco\u003c/a>; and \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattophx.com/\">Tratto\u003c/a>, his first white tablecloth destination, all in Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bianco's cookbook is an expression of this broadened palate. This may rankle hardcore pizza aficionados, but it suits Bianco. \"I didn't want to do just a pizza book,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm of the belief that if know how to forage for a salad, if you go into the market and you kind of open your mind up, and you start to align yourself with seasonality, and ask 'What do I feel like eating? Who's it for? Is it a first course or a main course salad?'\" says Bianco. \"All the questions that go into that, all the thoroughness that goes into that, that's how I make pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119645\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1092\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119645\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1180x805.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Bianco\u003c/em> opens with recipes for the six pies served at the pizzeria, including the signature Pizza Rosa: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, red onion, fresh rosemary and a scattering of crushed Arizona-grown pistachios. There are instructions for hearty main dishes (meatballs; braciole), salads (panzanella; purslane and cucumber) and sweets (rice pudding; lemon cookies). Into the narratives that tie the book together, Bianco weaves threads of memory, tradition and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps it is Bianco's own growing family — he and his wife, Mia, have two young children and a baby due in September — that moved him after all these years to finally put his recipes and food philosophy between two covers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I know that someday on this Earth that I won't make anything,\" Bianco says. \"I won't even make a piece of toast. I won't be here in the physical sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His writing, therefore, is guided by a simple question: \"How can I make a template that will be really easy to follow, or as easy as possible, that will live, hopefully, a long time?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jaime Joyce is a writer and editor living in Brooklyn. Her stories have appeared in \u003c/em>The New Yorker\u003cem> and \u003c/em>The New York Times\u003cem>. She is the author of \u003c/em>Moonshine: A Cultural History of America's Infamous Liquor\u003cem>. Follow her on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaijoyce/\">@jaijoyce\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It's 8 a.m. on a Thursday in the empty dining room of Sessanta, an Italian restaurant in the New York City hotel Sixty SoHo, and Chris Bianco, the Arizona chef widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement, is running on adrenaline and just a few hours of sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh my goodness, it was a cavalcade of who's who,\" Bianco says, with mock seriousness, of the dinner party he flew in from Phoenix to host in this very space the previous evening, to celebrate the July release of his long-awaited first book,\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bianco-Pizza-Pasta-Other-Food/dp/0062224379/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1501686431&sr=1-1&keywords=bianco+pizza%2C+pasta%2C+and+other+food+i+like\">Bianco: Pizza, Pasta, and Other Food I Like\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There were a lot of friends,\" from the food world, he says. And possibly \"just some people who were hungry and someone dragged them to the dinner and they probably thought there would be pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bite-sized focaccia squares were the closest thing to pizza on the four-course menu. Likewise, while Bianco's eponymous cookbook includes dough, sauce and pizza recipes, it expands beyond pizza to reflect his evolution as a chef and restaurateur.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza, of course, is what put Bianco on the culinary map. Since starting \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/\">Pizzeria Bianco\u003c/a> in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, his thin-crust wood-fired pizza has consistently won accolades. In 2003, Bianco became the first pizza maker to receive a regional James Beard Award (Best Chef, Southwest). \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2004/07/07/dining/the-road-to-pizza-nirvana-goes-through-phoenix.html?_r=0\">The New York \u003cem>Times\u003c/em>\u003c/a> lauded Bianco for \"making what just might be the best pizza in America.\" Food critic Jeffrey Steingarten, in Ed Levine's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pizza-Slice-Heaven-Ultimate-Companion/dp/B008SMUC0K\">Pizza: A Slice of Heaven\u003c/a>,\u003c/em> went further: \"Chris [Bianco] makes the finest pizzas in the United States and, in all frankness, the world.\" Because of Bianco, the Valley of the Sun has become a mecca for the pizza obsessed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in the day, people used to go through my trash to find out what tomatoes we used — 'That must be the secret!' — or the flour — 'That's the secret!,'\" Bianco says, taking a sip of black coffee. \"I was like, dude, you want tomatoes? Here's a can.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you asked me, I told you anything,\" Bianco adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, Bianco has mentored and inspired pizza makers from across the country, including Paul Giannone, of \u003ca href=\"http://pauliegee.com/\">Paulie Gee's\u003c/a>, in Brooklyn; Brandon Pettit, of \u003ca href=\"http://delanceyseattle.com/\">Delancey\u003c/a>, in Seattle; and Nancy Silverton, of \u003ca href=\"http://pizzeriamozza.com/\">Pizzeria Mozza\u003c/a>, in Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119644\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement.\" width=\"600\" height=\"899\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119644\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-375x562.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/chrisbianco_custom-f60ee9ffa71e759ae39d3ef2748701d1ba6a940f-s600-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chris Bianco opened his pizzeria in Phoenix nearly 30 years ago, and is now widely regarded as the father of the modern artisanal pizza movement. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"He's like a pizza Yoda, Chris is,\" says Adam Kuban, founder of the pizza blog \u003ca href=\"http://slice.seriouseats.com/\">Slice\u003c/a>, which is now part of the website Serious Eats. \"I think when pizza makers go to him, it's not so much how to learn to make pizza, it's just to kind of absorb this knowledge. It's almost like going to a Buddhist temple or something and taking in the knowledge and then applying that knowledge to what you do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Matthew Lyons, of \u003ca href=\"http://tributepizza.com/\">Tribute Pizza\u003c/a>, in San Diego, calls Bianco \"a very amicable cult leader.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just this cult of, like, caring an unreasonable amount about food and ingredients and people,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in the Bronx, Bianco is 55 and stocky, neither tall nor short, with a warm smile and pewter-colored hair that stands up in waves in the style of a mad scientist. He moved to Arizona when he was in his 20s, and in 1988 leased space in a gourmet market in order to start a pizza-making operation. In 1996, Pizzeria Bianco settled into its flagship location, a Prohibition-era red brick building in downtown Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Bianco's realm includes a second Pizzeria Bianco location; \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/bar-bianco/\">Bar Bianco\u003c/a>; the sandwich-focused \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/our-team/\">Pane Bianco\u003c/a>; and \u003ca href=\"http://www.trattophx.com/\">Tratto\u003c/a>, his first white tablecloth destination, all in Phoenix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bianco's cookbook is an expression of this broadened palate. This may rankle hardcore pizza aficionados, but it suits Bianco. \"I didn't want to do just a pizza book,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm of the belief that if know how to forage for a salad, if you go into the market and you kind of open your mind up, and you start to align yourself with seasonality, and ask 'What do I feel like eating? Who's it for? Is it a first course or a main course salad?'\" says Bianco. \"All the questions that go into that, all the thoroughness that goes into that, that's how I make pizza.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119645\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1092\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119645\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-1180x805.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/pizzagod_custom-8d6c02f30d2ded7a8b17c1e9954e86bb99d6a61e-s1600-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Left: mozzarella and tomato sandwich. Right: pizza biancoverde. \u003ccite>(David Loftus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Bianco\u003c/em> opens with recipes for the six pies served at the pizzeria, including the signature Pizza Rosa: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, red onion, fresh rosemary and a scattering of crushed Arizona-grown pistachios. There are instructions for hearty main dishes (meatballs; braciole), salads (panzanella; purslane and cucumber) and sweets (rice pudding; lemon cookies). Into the narratives that tie the book together, Bianco weaves threads of memory, tradition and family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps it is Bianco's own growing family — he and his wife, Mia, have two young children and a baby due in September — that moved him after all these years to finally put his recipes and food philosophy between two covers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I know that someday on this Earth that I won't make anything,\" Bianco says. \"I won't even make a piece of toast. I won't be here in the physical sense.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His writing, therefore, is guided by a simple question: \"How can I make a template that will be really easy to follow, or as easy as possible, that will live, hopefully, a long time?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jaime Joyce is a writer and editor living in Brooklyn. Her stories have appeared in \u003c/em>The New Yorker\u003cem> and \u003c/em>The New York Times\u003cem>. She is the author of \u003c/em>Moonshine: A Cultural History of America's Infamous Liquor\u003cem>. Follow her on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/jaijoyce/\">@jaijoyce\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "An Illustrated Guide To Master The Elements Of Cooking — Without Recipes",
"title": "An Illustrated Guide To Master The Elements Of Cooking — Without Recipes",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the interview on NPR:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/05/20170525_me_chef_calls_salt_fat_acid_heat_the_4_elements_good_cooking.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samin Nosrat has become known as the chef who taught Michael Pollan to cook, after the famed food writer featured her in his book \u003cem>Cooked\u003c/em> and his Netflix show of the same name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117798\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg\" alt=\"Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking by Samin Nosrat\" width=\"400\" height=\"496\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-160x198.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-240x298.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-375x465.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003cbr>Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003cbr>by Samin Nosrat\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, she's sharing her wisdom with the masses in her new, illustrated cookbook called \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003c/em>. The key to good cooking, she says, is learning to balance those elements and trust your instincts, rather than just follow recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's own formal culinary education came at Chez Panisse, the legendary restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., founded by Alice Waters. She first went there as a diner, then asked for a job and got one, working her way up. And it was while cooking at Chez Panisse that Nosrat had the revelation that eventually led to this cookbook — that salt, fat, acid and heat are the fundamental elements to good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The elements and the tenets of professional cooking don't always get translated to the home cook,\" she tells NPR's Rachel Martin. \"Recipes don't encourage you to use your own senses and use your own judgement. And salt, fat, acid and heat can be your compass when you maybe don't have other tools.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat frees her readers to use their own senses instead of measuring cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says we should salt things until they taste like the sea — which is a beautiful image, but also sounds like an awful lot of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg\" alt=\"A pinch of salt\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg 1999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pinch of salt \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Just use more than you're comfortable with, I think is a good rule for most people,\" she says. You know, especially when you're boiling things in salted water, the idea is that most foods don't spend much time in that water. So the idea is to make it salty enough that the food can absorb enough salt and become seasoned from within. A lot of times you end up using less salt, total, if you get the salt right from within, because then the thing isn't over seasoned on the outside and bland in the center.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's conversation with Martin is excerpted below. The transcript has been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RACHEL MARTIN: So, let's get to fat, which is the next central element to cooking. This is something that people are afraid of. Even though we understand the difference between good and bad fat, fat still gets a bad rap in cooking.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To me, it's a tragedy because I think fat has this remarkable capability to offer us all these different and very interesting and delicious and mouth-watering textures in our food. And it's just about learning how to get those textures out of the fat that you're already using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When you talk about acid in our food, what do you mean?\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, it is all about getting that nice, tangy balance in a bite, in a meal or in a dish. And you can get that through citrus and vinegar and wine, which are maybe the three most obvious and well-known sources of acid. But then there's acid in so many other things. Almost every condiment we add to our food is acidic, which is why when you get a bean and cheese burrito, you're always hungry for salsa and sour cream and guacamole to put on there, because those things will just perk it up and add flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg\" alt=\"grilled cheese\" width=\"1440\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-160x88.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-800x440.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-768x422.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1020x561.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1180x649.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-960x528.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-240x132.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-375x206.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-520x286.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anatomy of a Perfect Grilled Cheese Sandwich \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The last element we're going to talk about is heat. You say a grilled cheese sandwich can actually be a great guide on heat. What do you mean by that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was trying to think of something that everyone has made. And the thing about heat, I realized, is that when you're cooking a food, what it sort of boils down to — no matter what the food is — is to get your desired result on the outside and on the inside. And so your dream is to get that perfect grilled cheese, where the outside is crisp and brown and buttery and delicious, and the inside is melty and perfect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1913px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg\" alt=\"Samin was here\" width=\"1913\" height=\"1206\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg 1913w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-800x504.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-768x484.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1020x643.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1180x744.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-960x605.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-240x151.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-375x236.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-520x328.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1913px) 100vw, 1913px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin was here \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I flipped through this book. There are some fantastic illustrations in there by Wendy McNaughton. But there aren't any of the big, glossy photos traditionally found in cookbooks.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This book and this message is about teaching you to be loose in the kitchen. And I didn't want you to feel bound to my one image of a perfect dish in a perfect moment and feel like that was what you had to make. So I didn't want you to feel like you had to live up to my version of perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lastly, I want to ask you about the dedication in the book. You thank Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse, for giving you the kitchen, and your mom for giving you the world. What does your mom make of your career now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been an interesting experience being the child of immigrants and explaining this non-conventional path. But, I think once she could go to the store and buy a magazine that I'd written for or, now, this book — I think that she gets that I've figured something out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you cook for her?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She doesn't like my kind of cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So when Sunday night dinner comes around, she does the cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like I said, she's a good cook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/530274313/salt-fat-acid-heat-mastering-the-elements-of-good-cooking#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Read an excerpt from Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Samin Nosrat has become known as the chef who taught Michael Pollan to cook, after the famed food writer featured her in his book \u003cem>Cooked\u003c/em> and his Netflix show of the same name.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117798\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg\" alt=\"Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking by Samin Nosrat\" width=\"400\" height=\"496\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117798\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-160x198.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-240x298.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/book-375x465.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003cbr>Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003cbr>by Samin Nosrat\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, she's sharing her wisdom with the masses in her new, illustrated cookbook called \u003cem>Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking\u003c/em>. The key to good cooking, she says, is learning to balance those elements and trust your instincts, rather than just follow recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's own formal culinary education came at Chez Panisse, the legendary restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., founded by Alice Waters. She first went there as a diner, then asked for a job and got one, working her way up. And it was while cooking at Chez Panisse that Nosrat had the revelation that eventually led to this cookbook — that salt, fat, acid and heat are the fundamental elements to good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The elements and the tenets of professional cooking don't always get translated to the home cook,\" she tells NPR's Rachel Martin. \"Recipes don't encourage you to use your own senses and use your own judgement. And salt, fat, acid and heat can be your compass when you maybe don't have other tools.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat frees her readers to use their own senses instead of measuring cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says we should salt things until they taste like the sea — which is a beautiful image, but also sounds like an awful lot of salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117794\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1999px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg\" alt=\"A pinch of salt\" width=\"1999\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117794\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779.jpg 1999w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/pinchsalt-pg45-1aed56a2f75f18beb7dccf3bbee3b59f394e0779-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1999px) 100vw, 1999px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A pinch of salt \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Just use more than you're comfortable with, I think is a good rule for most people,\" she says. You know, especially when you're boiling things in salted water, the idea is that most foods don't spend much time in that water. So the idea is to make it salty enough that the food can absorb enough salt and become seasoned from within. A lot of times you end up using less salt, total, if you get the salt right from within, because then the thing isn't over seasoned on the outside and bland in the center.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nosrat's conversation with Martin is excerpted below. The transcript has been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RACHEL MARTIN: So, let's get to fat, which is the next central element to cooking. This is something that people are afraid of. Even though we understand the difference between good and bad fat, fat still gets a bad rap in cooking.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To me, it's a tragedy because I think fat has this remarkable capability to offer us all these different and very interesting and delicious and mouth-watering textures in our food. And it's just about learning how to get those textures out of the fat that you're already using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>When you talk about acid in our food, what do you mean?\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, it is all about getting that nice, tangy balance in a bite, in a meal or in a dish. And you can get that through citrus and vinegar and wine, which are maybe the three most obvious and well-known sources of acid. But then there's acid in so many other things. Almost every condiment we add to our food is acidic, which is why when you get a bean and cheese burrito, you're always hungry for salsa and sour cream and guacamole to put on there, because those things will just perk it up and add flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1440px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg\" alt=\"grilled cheese\" width=\"1440\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-160x88.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-800x440.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-768x422.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1020x561.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-1180x649.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-960x528.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-240x132.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-375x206.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/anatomyofgrilledcheese_custom-5c2f1a25239d5a34e4dceee9be44ee644e3b6c4e-520x286.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1440px) 100vw, 1440px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anatomy of a Perfect Grilled Cheese Sandwich \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The last element we're going to talk about is heat. You say a grilled cheese sandwich can actually be a great guide on heat. What do you mean by that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was trying to think of something that everyone has made. And the thing about heat, I realized, is that when you're cooking a food, what it sort of boils down to — no matter what the food is — is to get your desired result on the outside and on the inside. And so your dream is to get that perfect grilled cheese, where the outside is crisp and brown and buttery and delicious, and the inside is melty and perfect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1913px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg\" alt=\"Samin was here\" width=\"1913\" height=\"1206\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91.jpg 1913w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-800x504.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-768x484.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1020x643.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-1180x744.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-960x605.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-240x151.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-375x236.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/saminwashere_custom-19cb603a6e46ce374701d9851de2245c3f727d91-520x328.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1913px) 100vw, 1913px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Samin was here \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Wendy MacNaughton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I flipped through this book. There are some fantastic illustrations in there by Wendy McNaughton. But there aren't any of the big, glossy photos traditionally found in cookbooks.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This book and this message is about teaching you to be loose in the kitchen. And I didn't want you to feel bound to my one image of a perfect dish in a perfect moment and feel like that was what you had to make. So I didn't want you to feel like you had to live up to my version of perfection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lastly, I want to ask you about the dedication in the book. You thank Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse, for giving you the kitchen, and your mom for giving you the world. What does your mom make of your career now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been an interesting experience being the child of immigrants and explaining this non-conventional path. But, I think once she could go to the store and buy a magazine that I'd written for or, now, this book — I think that she gets that I've figured something out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you cook for her?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She doesn't like my kind of cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So when Sunday night dinner comes around, she does the cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like I said, she's a good cook. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/530274313/salt-fat-acid-heat-mastering-the-elements-of-good-cooking#excerpt\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cstrong>Read an excerpt from Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Grocery Stores: 'The Best Of America And The Worst Of America'",
"title": "Grocery Stores: 'The Best Of America And The Worst Of America'",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/05/20170515_atc_grocery_stores_the_best_of_america_and_the_worst_of_america.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grocery stores in America have changed from neighborhood corner markets to multimillion-dollar chains that sell convenience — along with thousands of products — to satisfy the demand of the country's hungry consumers. What caused this transformation? And what will our grocery stores be like in the future?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117434\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Grocery The Buying and Selling of Food in America by Michael Ruhlman\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117434\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grocery\u003cbr>The Buying and Selling of Food in America\u003cbr>by Michael Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Award-winning food writer Michael Ruhlman, author of more than 20 books — including the best-seller \u003cem>The Soul of the Chef \u003c/em>and co-author of \u003cem>The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/em> with chef Thomas Keller — examines this phenomenon through the story of the Midwestern grocery chain Heinen's. His new book, \u003cem>Grocery: The Buying and Selling of Food in America\u003c/em>, not only offers insights on how we produce, distribute and buy food, but seeks ways of understanding our changing relationship with what we eat and how we get it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To talk about some of these issues, NPR's Ari Shapiro of \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> met with Ruhlman at a Harris Teeter grocery store in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>We're going to dig into the store and wander around its various sections. But just standing here at the entrance, you can see a bit of produce, a bit of prepared food, a magazine rack, charcoal. Is there something you didn't know before you started researching the book that you now see in a different way?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer quantity of stuff that we buy and that's available to us. It represents the extraordinary luxury that Americans have at our fingertips, seven days a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>We are in the first section that most people usually walk into in a grocery store: produce. It was so interesting to read about the time that you spent with the produce buyers behind Heinen's — the chain in Cleveland — and the debates they had about whether the cantaloupes were sweet enough, whether there were enough plums, whether anybody would buy the stone fruit after back-to-school in September ... the things that we as customers never see.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We don't. We just expect it to be here: \"I want peapods for my stir-fry tonight. Where are they, I expect them to be here.\" And [the store] wants you to have them. If you come there and they don't have peapods, they're going to lose a customer. The business is run at such a narrow margin that they really want to keep their customers, which is why you're almost always asked at good grocery stores, \"Did you find everything you need?\" Because that's one reason why people don't come back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let's work our way to the packaged stuff in the center. In a typical grocery store, how many different products are you going to find?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are about 40,000. In the past couple of decades it's gone up from about 7,000. Food manufacturers have found that they can increase demand and sell more products if they give you more variety. For instance, barbecue sauces: Caribbean jerk, sesame ginger, Hawaiian, teriyaki ... when's it going to end? There's got to be a limit as to how much we can actually absorb and choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117431\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92.jpg\" alt=\"A typical grocery store now sells about 40,000 products, compared with about 7,000 a couple of decades ago, Ruhlman says.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117431\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A typical grocery store now sells about 40,000 products, compared with about 7,000 a couple of decades ago, Ruhlman says. \u003ccite>(Kelly Jo Smart/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I get the sense that you feel a little conflicted. On one hand, the grocery store is the embodiment of the greatest pinnacle of human achievement, and on the other hand, it's row after row of depressing, processed, sugar-filled junk.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes. It's the best of America and the worst of America right here in one bright neon-lit landscape. My father died shortly before I started [researching the book]. He loved grocery stores, and that's part of why I [did this.] I think the grocery store is sort of a nostalgic place. We want to think the people who care about our food care about us. It goes back to that corner grocery store. But I don't think they do anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So far, it doesn't seem like grocery delivery has really taken off. Do you see that changing?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do believe more people will get their commodity groceries — the Cheerios, the cranberry juice, all the stuff in the middle of the grocery store they will get it delivered, because it's all the same no matter where it comes from. The whole center of the store is going to go away or it's going to be filled with specialty goods. That's my hope. Grocery stores are going to shrink and become more specialty stores, and they're going to sell better food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is that, in some sense, a return to what it was like in the early days of the grocery store?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's exactly what it's returning to — when a small grocery would sell a variety of very special hand-picked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In his new book, Michael Ruhlman explores how and why Americans have changed from corner-store customers to insatiable consumers of every edible product at our fingertips.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grocery stores in America have changed from neighborhood corner markets to multimillion-dollar chains that sell convenience — along with thousands of products — to satisfy the demand of the country's hungry consumers. What caused this transformation? And what will our grocery stores be like in the future?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117434\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Grocery The Buying and Selling of Food in America by Michael Ruhlman\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117434\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/9781419723865_custom-c052f7cabbd1d5dd3c19d45085fbc39037320c2f-s600-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grocery\u003cbr>The Buying and Selling of Food in America\u003cbr>by Michael Ruhlman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Award-winning food writer Michael Ruhlman, author of more than 20 books — including the best-seller \u003cem>The Soul of the Chef \u003c/em>and co-author of \u003cem>The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/em> with chef Thomas Keller — examines this phenomenon through the story of the Midwestern grocery chain Heinen's. His new book, \u003cem>Grocery: The Buying and Selling of Food in America\u003c/em>, not only offers insights on how we produce, distribute and buy food, but seeks ways of understanding our changing relationship with what we eat and how we get it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To talk about some of these issues, NPR's Ari Shapiro of \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> met with Ruhlman at a Harris Teeter grocery store in Washington, D.C.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>We're going to dig into the store and wander around its various sections. But just standing here at the entrance, you can see a bit of produce, a bit of prepared food, a magazine rack, charcoal. Is there something you didn't know before you started researching the book that you now see in a different way?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sheer quantity of stuff that we buy and that's available to us. It represents the extraordinary luxury that Americans have at our fingertips, seven days a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>We are in the first section that most people usually walk into in a grocery store: produce. It was so interesting to read about the time that you spent with the produce buyers behind Heinen's — the chain in Cleveland — and the debates they had about whether the cantaloupes were sweet enough, whether there were enough plums, whether anybody would buy the stone fruit after back-to-school in September ... the things that we as customers never see.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We don't. We just expect it to be here: \"I want peapods for my stir-fry tonight. Where are they, I expect them to be here.\" And [the store] wants you to have them. If you come there and they don't have peapods, they're going to lose a customer. The business is run at such a narrow margin that they really want to keep their customers, which is why you're almost always asked at good grocery stores, \"Did you find everything you need?\" Because that's one reason why people don't come back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Let's work our way to the packaged stuff in the center. In a typical grocery store, how many different products are you going to find?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are about 40,000. In the past couple of decades it's gone up from about 7,000. Food manufacturers have found that they can increase demand and sell more products if they give you more variety. For instance, barbecue sauces: Caribbean jerk, sesame ginger, Hawaiian, teriyaki ... when's it going to end? There's got to be a limit as to how much we can actually absorb and choose from.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117431\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92.jpg\" alt=\"A typical grocery store now sells about 40,000 products, compared with about 7,000 a couple of decades ago, Ruhlman says.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117431\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/mg_0545_custom-ddfbf6a88e7eee423b751e043467d40d03722a92-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A typical grocery store now sells about 40,000 products, compared with about 7,000 a couple of decades ago, Ruhlman says. \u003ccite>(Kelly Jo Smart/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I get the sense that you feel a little conflicted. On one hand, the grocery store is the embodiment of the greatest pinnacle of human achievement, and on the other hand, it's row after row of depressing, processed, sugar-filled junk.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes. It's the best of America and the worst of America right here in one bright neon-lit landscape. My father died shortly before I started [researching the book]. He loved grocery stores, and that's part of why I [did this.] I think the grocery store is sort of a nostalgic place. We want to think the people who care about our food care about us. It goes back to that corner grocery store. But I don't think they do anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So far, it doesn't seem like grocery delivery has really taken off. Do you see that changing?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do believe more people will get their commodity groceries — the Cheerios, the cranberry juice, all the stuff in the middle of the grocery store they will get it delivered, because it's all the same no matter where it comes from. The whole center of the store is going to go away or it's going to be filled with specialty goods. That's my hope. Grocery stores are going to shrink and become more specialty stores, and they're going to sell better food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is that, in some sense, a return to what it was like in the early days of the grocery store?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's exactly what it's returning to — when a small grocery would sell a variety of very special hand-picked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Paradise Lost': How The Apple Became The Forbidden Fruit",
"title": "'Paradise Lost': How The Apple Became The Forbidden Fruit",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>This month marks 350 years since John Milton sold his publisher the copyright of \u003cem>Paradise Lost \u003c/em>for the sum of five pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great work dramatizes the oldest story in the Bible, whose principal characters we know only too well: God, Adam, Eve, Satan in the form of a talking snake — and an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except, of course, that Genesis never names the apple but simply refers to \"the fruit.\" To quote from the King James Bible:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>And the woman said to the serpent, \"We may eat the fruit of the trees of the garden; but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God has said, 'You shall not eat it, nor shall you touch it, lest you die.'\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Fruit\" is also the word Milton employs in the poem's sonorous opening lines:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal taste\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brought Death into the World, and all our woe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But in the course of his over-10,000-line poem, Milton names the fruit twice, explicitly calling it an apple. So how did the apple become the guilty fruit that brought death into this world and all our woe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short and unexpected answer is: a Latin pun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to explain, we have to go all the way back to the fourth century A.D., when Pope Damasus ordered his leading scholar of scripture, Jerome, to translate the Hebrew Bible into Latin. Jerome's path-breaking, 15-year project, which resulted in the canonical \u003cem>Vulgate, \u003c/em>used the Latin spoken by the common man. As it turned out, the Latin words for evil and apple are the same: malus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Hebrew Bible, a generic term, \u003cem>peri\u003c/em>, is used for the fruit hanging from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, explains Robert Appelbaum, who discusses the biblical provenance of the apple in his book \u003cem>Aguecheek's Beef, Belch's Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peri could be absolutely any fruit,\" he says. \"Rabbinic commentators variously characterized it as a fig, a pomegranate, a grape, an apricot, a citron, or even wheat. Some commentators even thought of the forbidden fruit as a kind of wine, intoxicating to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 987px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden\" width=\"987\" height=\"460\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117034\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg 987w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-960x447.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-520x242.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 987px) 100vw, 987px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Jerome was translating the \"Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil,\" the word \u003cem>malus \u003c/em>snaked in. A brilliant but controversial theologian, Jerome was known for his hot temper, but he obviously also had a rather cool sense of humor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jerome had several options,\" says Appelbaum, a professor of English literature at Sweden's Uppsala University. \"But he hit upon the idea of translating \u003cem>peri\u003c/em> as \u003cem>malus\u003c/em>, which in Latin has two very different meanings. As an adjective, \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> means bad or evil. As a noun it seems to means an apple, in our own sense of the word, coming from the very common tree now known officially as the \u003cem>Malus pumila\u003c/em>. So Jerome came up with a very good pun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story doesn't end there. \"To complicate things even more,\" says Appelbaum, \"the word \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> in Jerome's time, and for a long time after, could refer to any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. A pear was a kind of \u003cem>malus.\u003c/em> So was the fig, the peach, and so forth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which explains why Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel fresco features a serpent coiled around a fig tree. But the apple began to dominate Fall artworks in Europe after the German artist Albrecht Dürer's famous 1504 engraving depicted the First Couple counterpoised beside an apple tree. It became a template for future artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose luminous \u003cem>Adam and Eve\u003c/em> painting is hung with apples that glow like rubies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117035\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder.\" width=\"600\" height=\"883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117035\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-160x235.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-240x353.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-375x552.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-520x765.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Milton, then, was only following cultural tradition. But he was a renowned Cambridge intellectual fluent in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, who served as secretary for foreign tongues to Oliver Cromwell during the Commonwealth. If anyone was aware of the \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> pun, it would be him. And yet he chose to run it with it. Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appelbaum says that Milton's use of the term \"apple\" was ambiguous. \"Even in Milton's time the word had two meanings: either what was our common apple, or, again, any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. Milton probably had in mind an ambiguously named object with a variety of connotations as well as denotations, most but not all of them associating the idea of the apple with a kind of innocence, though also with a kind of intoxication, since hard apple cider was a common English drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later readers of Milton, says Appelbaum, who thought of \"apple\" as \"apple\" and not any seed-bearing fruit. For them, the forbidden fruit became synonymous with the \u003cem>malus pumila. \u003c/em>As a widely read canonical work, \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em> was influential in cementing the role of apple in the Fall story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether the forbidden fruit was an apple, fig, peach, pomegranate or something completely different, it is worth revisiting the temptation scene \u003ca href=\"https://www.dartmouth.edu/~milton/reading_room/pl/book_9/text.shtml\">in Book 9 of \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> both as an homage to Milton (who composed his masterpiece when he was blind, impoverished and in the doghouse for his regicidal politics) and simply to savor the sublime beauty of the language. Thomas Jefferson loved this poem. With its superfood dietary advice, celebration of the 'self-help is the best help' ideal, and presence of a snake-oil salesman, \u003cem>Paradise Los\u003c/em>t is a quintessentially American story, although composed more than a century before the United States was founded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes the temptation scene so absorbing and enjoyable is that, although written in archaic English, it is speckled with mundane details that make the reader stop in surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the serpent's impeccably timed gustatory seduction. It takes place not at any old time of the day but at lunchtime:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Mean while the hour of Noon drew on, and wak'd/ An eager appetite.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003c/em>What a canny and charmingly human detail. Milton builds on it by lingeringly conjuring the aroma of apples, knowing full well that an \"ambrosial smell\" can madden an empty stomach to action. The fruit's \"savorie odour,\" rhapsodizes the snake, is more pleasing to the senses than the scent of the teats of an ewe or goat dropping with unsuckled milk at evening. Today's Food Network impresarios, with their overblown praise and frantic similes, couldn't dream up anything close to that peculiarly sensuous comparison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is easy to imagine the scene. Eve, curious, credulous and peckish, gazes longingly at the contraband \"Ruddie and Gold\" fruit while the unctuous snake-oil salesman murmurs his encouragement. Initially, she hangs back, suspicious of his \"overpraising.\" But soon she begins to cave: How can a fruit so \"Fair to the Eye, inviting to the Taste,\" be evil? Surely it is the opposite, its \"sciental sap\" must be the source of divine knowledge. The serpent must speak true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>So saying, her rash hand in evil hour \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Forth reaching to the Fruit, she pluck'd, she eat:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Earth felt the wound, and Nature from her seat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sighing through all her Works gave signs of woe,\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>That all was lost. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Eve is insensible to the cosmic disappointment her lunch has caused. Sated and intoxicated as if with wine, she bows low before \"O Sovran, vertuous, precious of all Trees,\" and hurries forth with \"a bough of fairest fruit\" to her beloved Adam, that he too might eat and aspire to godhead. Their shared meal, foreshadowed as it is by expulsion and doom, is a moving and poignant tableau of marital bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the serpent, its mission accomplished, slinks into the gloom. Satan heads eagerly toward a gathering of fellow devils, where he boasts that the Fall of Man has been wrought by something as ridiculous as \"an apple.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that it was a fig or a peach or a pear. An ancient Roman punned – and the apple myth was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Some 350 years ago, Milton's epic chronicled the Fall of Man, wrought by the red fruit. Except that it might've been a fig or peach or pear. An ancient Roman made a pun – and the apple myth was born.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This month marks 350 years since John Milton sold his publisher the copyright of \u003cem>Paradise Lost \u003c/em>for the sum of five pounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His great work dramatizes the oldest story in the Bible, whose principal characters we know only too well: God, Adam, Eve, Satan in the form of a talking snake — and an apple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except, of course, that Genesis never names the apple but simply refers to \"the fruit.\" To quote from the King James Bible:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>And the woman said to the serpent, \"We may eat the fruit of the trees of the garden; but of the fruit of the tree which is in the midst of the garden, God has said, 'You shall not eat it, nor shall you touch it, lest you die.'\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Fruit\" is also the word Milton employs in the poem's sonorous opening lines:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of Mans First Disobedience, and the Fruit\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Of that Forbidden Tree, whose mortal taste\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brought Death into the World, and all our woe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But in the course of his over-10,000-line poem, Milton names the fruit twice, explicitly calling it an apple. So how did the apple become the guilty fruit that brought death into this world and all our woe?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short and unexpected answer is: a Latin pun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In order to explain, we have to go all the way back to the fourth century A.D., when Pope Damasus ordered his leading scholar of scripture, Jerome, to translate the Hebrew Bible into Latin. Jerome's path-breaking, 15-year project, which resulted in the canonical \u003cem>Vulgate, \u003c/em>used the Latin spoken by the common man. As it turned out, the Latin words for evil and apple are the same: malus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Hebrew Bible, a generic term, \u003cem>peri\u003c/em>, is used for the fruit hanging from the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, explains Robert Appelbaum, who discusses the biblical provenance of the apple in his book \u003cem>Aguecheek's Beef, Belch's Hiccup, and Other Gastronomic Interjections. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Peri could be absolutely any fruit,\" he says. \"Rabbinic commentators variously characterized it as a fig, a pomegranate, a grape, an apricot, a citron, or even wheat. Some commentators even thought of the forbidden fruit as a kind of wine, intoxicating to drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 987px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden\" width=\"987\" height=\"460\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117034\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85.jpg 987w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-160x75.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-800x373.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-768x358.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-960x447.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-240x112.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-375x175.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/michelangelo_su-ndenfall_custom-75a1def1ba3fc8edaa8a96c81853c04e62b764af-s1500-c85-520x242.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 987px) 100vw, 987px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A detail of Michelangelo's fresco in the Vatican's Sistine Chapel depicting the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Jerome was translating the \"Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil,\" the word \u003cem>malus \u003c/em>snaked in. A brilliant but controversial theologian, Jerome was known for his hot temper, but he obviously also had a rather cool sense of humor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jerome had several options,\" says Appelbaum, a professor of English literature at Sweden's Uppsala University. \"But he hit upon the idea of translating \u003cem>peri\u003c/em> as \u003cem>malus\u003c/em>, which in Latin has two very different meanings. As an adjective, \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> means bad or evil. As a noun it seems to means an apple, in our own sense of the word, coming from the very common tree now known officially as the \u003cem>Malus pumila\u003c/em>. So Jerome came up with a very good pun.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story doesn't end there. \"To complicate things even more,\" says Appelbaum, \"the word \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> in Jerome's time, and for a long time after, could refer to any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. A pear was a kind of \u003cem>malus.\u003c/em> So was the fig, the peach, and so forth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which explains why Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel fresco features a serpent coiled around a fig tree. But the apple began to dominate Fall artworks in Europe after the German artist Albrecht Dürer's famous 1504 engraving depicted the First Couple counterpoised beside an apple tree. It became a template for future artists such as Lucas Cranach the Elder, whose luminous \u003cem>Adam and Eve\u003c/em> painting is hung with apples that glow like rubies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117035\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder.\" width=\"600\" height=\"883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117035\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-160x235.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-240x353.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-375x552.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/lucas_cranach_the_elder_-_adam_und_eva_im_paradies_-su-ndenfall-_-_google_art_project_custom-2a6ba2ef87467f1e7e8d41d9b11d05c6d44ce118-s600-c85-520x765.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eve giving Adam the forbidden fruit, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. \u003ccite>(Wikipedia)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Milton, then, was only following cultural tradition. But he was a renowned Cambridge intellectual fluent in Latin, Greek and Hebrew, who served as secretary for foreign tongues to Oliver Cromwell during the Commonwealth. If anyone was aware of the \u003cem>malus\u003c/em> pun, it would be him. And yet he chose to run it with it. Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Appelbaum says that Milton's use of the term \"apple\" was ambiguous. \"Even in Milton's time the word had two meanings: either what was our common apple, or, again, any fleshy seed-bearing fruit. Milton probably had in mind an ambiguously named object with a variety of connotations as well as denotations, most but not all of them associating the idea of the apple with a kind of innocence, though also with a kind of intoxication, since hard apple cider was a common English drink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later readers of Milton, says Appelbaum, who thought of \"apple\" as \"apple\" and not any seed-bearing fruit. For them, the forbidden fruit became synonymous with the \u003cem>malus pumila. \u003c/em>As a widely read canonical work, \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em> was influential in cementing the role of apple in the Fall story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But whether the forbidden fruit was an apple, fig, peach, pomegranate or something completely different, it is worth revisiting the temptation scene \u003ca href=\"https://www.dartmouth.edu/~milton/reading_room/pl/book_9/text.shtml\">in Book 9 of \u003cem>Paradise Lost\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> both as an homage to Milton (who composed his masterpiece when he was blind, impoverished and in the doghouse for his regicidal politics) and simply to savor the sublime beauty of the language. Thomas Jefferson loved this poem. With its superfood dietary advice, celebration of the 'self-help is the best help' ideal, and presence of a snake-oil salesman, \u003cem>Paradise Los\u003c/em>t is a quintessentially American story, although composed more than a century before the United States was founded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes the temptation scene so absorbing and enjoyable is that, although written in archaic English, it is speckled with mundane details that make the reader stop in surprise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take, for instance, the serpent's impeccably timed gustatory seduction. It takes place not at any old time of the day but at lunchtime:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Mean while the hour of Noon drew on, and wak'd/ An eager appetite.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003c/em>What a canny and charmingly human detail. Milton builds on it by lingeringly conjuring the aroma of apples, knowing full well that an \"ambrosial smell\" can madden an empty stomach to action. The fruit's \"savorie odour,\" rhapsodizes the snake, is more pleasing to the senses than the scent of the teats of an ewe or goat dropping with unsuckled milk at evening. Today's Food Network impresarios, with their overblown praise and frantic similes, couldn't dream up anything close to that peculiarly sensuous comparison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is easy to imagine the scene. Eve, curious, credulous and peckish, gazes longingly at the contraband \"Ruddie and Gold\" fruit while the unctuous snake-oil salesman murmurs his encouragement. Initially, she hangs back, suspicious of his \"overpraising.\" But soon she begins to cave: How can a fruit so \"Fair to the Eye, inviting to the Taste,\" be evil? Surely it is the opposite, its \"sciental sap\" must be the source of divine knowledge. The serpent must speak true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>So saying, her rash hand in evil hour \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Forth reaching to the Fruit, she pluck'd, she eat:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Earth felt the wound, and Nature from her seat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sighing through all her Works gave signs of woe,\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>That all was lost. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But Eve is insensible to the cosmic disappointment her lunch has caused. Sated and intoxicated as if with wine, she bows low before \"O Sovran, vertuous, precious of all Trees,\" and hurries forth with \"a bough of fairest fruit\" to her beloved Adam, that he too might eat and aspire to godhead. Their shared meal, foreshadowed as it is by expulsion and doom, is a moving and poignant tableau of marital bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the serpent, its mission accomplished, slinks into the gloom. Satan heads eagerly toward a gathering of fellow devils, where he boasts that the Fall of Man has been wrought by something as ridiculous as \"an apple.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except that it was a fig or a peach or a pear. An ancient Roman punned – and the apple myth was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a> is a freelance journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Oaky, With Notes Of BS: Why Wine Tasting Struggles To Get It On The Nose",
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"content": "\u003cp>To get you to buy a bottle of champagne, M. Cole Chilton, the face who was always behind the counter of my neighborhood wine store in Brooklyn, would send out emails with elaborate descriptions: \"I taste like sunshine, and I tell of brighter days ahead. I will make you forget that three people cheated on you last year. I will make you forget that you didn't contribute anything to your 401(k). I will make you forget that dog sitting is not as easy as it sounds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rarely have I gotten so much enjoyment from a newsletter, but also, rarely have I been so confused. Did I want to buy these wines that smelled like \"Bing cherries burnt by a flaming walrus tusk and washed down with gulp of bitter Iron Goddess tea?\" Yes, yes I did. Did I know what any of that meant or what to expect when I opened a bottle? God, no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a common problem with the average wine consumer. In her new \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cork-Dork-Wine-Fueled-Sommeliers-Scientists/dp/0143128094\">book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Cork Dork, \u003c/em>writer and certified sommelier Bianca Bosker says you can teach yourself to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She traces her wine education from being a total novice working as a cellar rat in a New York restaurant to becoming someone who could blind taste with impressive accuracy. Though the book is very much a glimpse into the strange world of wine, it's even more about taste — how to do it, how to describe it, and whether anyone knows what they're doing at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bosker describes having a \"crisis of confidence\" after bringing a blind-smelling exercise to her fellow sommeliers. She filled six plastic cups with herbs, covered them in foil, and poked holes into the top. \"If the somms could smell chervil in their wine, surely they could smell chervil in chervil?\" Bosker writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, this was not the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a theory she notes elsewhere in the book, perhaps instead of real chervil, the aroma these sommeliers were noting was simply something they'd heard others describe as chervil in the past — a game of telephone for the nose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tasting notes, which are meant to be a helpful guide, might just be creating new confusion for the lay drinker. \"If you're a [wine] critic and you say you smell 'peppered raspberry' and 'pomegranate' and you, the drinker, don't sense them, you'll think there's something wrong with the wine or something wrong with you,\" Bosker tells NPR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we may know as many as 30,000 words in our native language, we're not nearly so good at defining the hundreds of thousands of distinct smells our brains process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's an incredible richness of information we're neglecting and we can remedy that by teaching ourselves how to taste,\" Bosker says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1980s, \u003ca href=\"http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/people/emeriti/noble.html\">Ann Noble\u003c/a>, a professor at the University of California, Davis, came up with a solution to this challenge, at least for wine. Frustrated by the lack of accountability in tasting notes — especially with impossible-to-define descriptions like \"skyscraper-like texture,\" \"elegant,\" or \"romantic\" — Noble developed an \u003ca href=\"http://www.winearomawheel.com/\">aroma wheel\u003c/a>, which culled and categorized some of the most common aromas identified by the wine industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Does the wine seem reminiscent of tropical fruit? Take it a step further and try to identify whether it's more like bubblegum or kiwi. If there's a hint of vanilla, the aroma wheel hints that it's likely to be caused by oak aging. It's hard to state how influential this wheel has been. Variations of it can now be found to help identify distinct aromas in coffee, olive oil, honey and chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You used to have all these emotional sort of words that would be off-putting to someone who didn't know what it meant — 'esoteric' or 'exclusive,' \" Noble says of pre-aroma wheel tasting notes. \"Now you see more specific terminology.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking the same language, whether in wine or life, is important for communication. For many consumers, a sommelier's saying a wine is \"bold\" means as much as saying it's gobbeldygook. And these words are important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike food — which gives us multiple sensory cues like crunchy, hot, squishy or stringy in addition to tasting salty or like apricot — with wine, it's all about minute differences between taste and smell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the interest of selling wine or passing sommelier exams, Bosker said, people sometimes take the poetry of wine too far without understanding where these words come from and how to use them. The terms we use to describe wine have often been representative of the times we live in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, in the '80s there were a lot of terms like \"svelte and lithe and muscular,\" Bosker says, reflecting a cultural attachment to spandex and Jazzercise. Today the foodie movement has led to terms like \"organic rutabaga,\" while a need to \"quantify our hedonism\" has started some tasters down a path of referring to the chemicals that we're smelling like pyrazine (found in bell pepper) or mercaptans (the culprit behind the smell of odorous socks or rotten cabbage).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Wine tasting, yes, it helps you appreciate wine, but it's a discipline that can teach you how to appreciate anything in life more whether it's a walk in the park or,\" Bosker says, laughing, \"the smells of the subway.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this isn't to say that the poetry of wine should be lost forever. Perhaps it's time wine was marketed more like food: Start with an objective list of ingredients and then use marketing language to make consumers feel a certain way to buy it. A wine can taste of red fruit and leather at the same time it makes you feel like you're in a cabin listening to love songs on the radio. Now that's a wine I'd like to drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.twitter.com/tkdano\">Tove K. Danovich\u003c/a> \u003cem>is a journalist based in Portland, Ore\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>To get you to buy a bottle of champagne, M. Cole Chilton, the face who was always behind the counter of my neighborhood wine store in Brooklyn, would send out emails with elaborate descriptions: \"I taste like sunshine, and I tell of brighter days ahead. I will make you forget that three people cheated on you last year. I will make you forget that you didn't contribute anything to your 401(k). I will make you forget that dog sitting is not as easy as it sounds.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rarely have I gotten so much enjoyment from a newsletter, but also, rarely have I been so confused. Did I want to buy these wines that smelled like \"Bing cherries burnt by a flaming walrus tusk and washed down with gulp of bitter Iron Goddess tea?\" Yes, yes I did. Did I know what any of that meant or what to expect when I opened a bottle? God, no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a common problem with the average wine consumer. In her new \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cork-Dork-Wine-Fueled-Sommeliers-Scientists/dp/0143128094\">book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Cork Dork, \u003c/em>writer and certified sommelier Bianca Bosker says you can teach yourself to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She traces her wine education from being a total novice working as a cellar rat in a New York restaurant to becoming someone who could blind taste with impressive accuracy. Though the book is very much a glimpse into the strange world of wine, it's even more about taste — how to do it, how to describe it, and whether anyone knows what they're doing at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bosker describes having a \"crisis of confidence\" after bringing a blind-smelling exercise to her fellow sommeliers. She filled six plastic cups with herbs, covered them in foil, and poked holes into the top. \"If the somms could smell chervil in their wine, surely they could smell chervil in chervil?\" Bosker writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, this was not the case.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to a theory she notes elsewhere in the book, perhaps instead of real chervil, the aroma these sommeliers were noting was simply something they'd heard others describe as chervil in the past — a game of telephone for the nose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tasting notes, which are meant to be a helpful guide, might just be creating new confusion for the lay drinker. \"If you're a [wine] critic and you say you smell 'peppered raspberry' and 'pomegranate' and you, the drinker, don't sense them, you'll think there's something wrong with the wine or something wrong with you,\" Bosker tells NPR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While we may know as many as 30,000 words in our native language, we're not nearly so good at defining the hundreds of thousands of distinct smells our brains process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's an incredible richness of information we're neglecting and we can remedy that by teaching ourselves how to taste,\" Bosker says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1980s, \u003ca href=\"http://wineserver.ucdavis.edu/people/emeriti/noble.html\">Ann Noble\u003c/a>, a professor at the University of California, Davis, came up with a solution to this challenge, at least for wine. Frustrated by the lack of accountability in tasting notes — especially with impossible-to-define descriptions like \"skyscraper-like texture,\" \"elegant,\" or \"romantic\" — Noble developed an \u003ca href=\"http://www.winearomawheel.com/\">aroma wheel\u003c/a>, which culled and categorized some of the most common aromas identified by the wine industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Does the wine seem reminiscent of tropical fruit? Take it a step further and try to identify whether it's more like bubblegum or kiwi. If there's a hint of vanilla, the aroma wheel hints that it's likely to be caused by oak aging. It's hard to state how influential this wheel has been. Variations of it can now be found to help identify distinct aromas in coffee, olive oil, honey and chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You used to have all these emotional sort of words that would be off-putting to someone who didn't know what it meant — 'esoteric' or 'exclusive,' \" Noble says of pre-aroma wheel tasting notes. \"Now you see more specific terminology.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking the same language, whether in wine or life, is important for communication. For many consumers, a sommelier's saying a wine is \"bold\" means as much as saying it's gobbeldygook. And these words are important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike food — which gives us multiple sensory cues like crunchy, hot, squishy or stringy in addition to tasting salty or like apricot — with wine, it's all about minute differences between taste and smell.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the interest of selling wine or passing sommelier exams, Bosker said, people sometimes take the poetry of wine too far without understanding where these words come from and how to use them. The terms we use to describe wine have often been representative of the times we live in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, in the '80s there were a lot of terms like \"svelte and lithe and muscular,\" Bosker says, reflecting a cultural attachment to spandex and Jazzercise. Today the foodie movement has led to terms like \"organic rutabaga,\" while a need to \"quantify our hedonism\" has started some tasters down a path of referring to the chemicals that we're smelling like pyrazine (found in bell pepper) or mercaptans (the culprit behind the smell of odorous socks or rotten cabbage).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Wine tasting, yes, it helps you appreciate wine, but it's a discipline that can teach you how to appreciate anything in life more whether it's a walk in the park or,\" Bosker says, laughing, \"the smells of the subway.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this isn't to say that the poetry of wine should be lost forever. Perhaps it's time wine was marketed more like food: Start with an objective list of ingredients and then use marketing language to make consumers feel a certain way to buy it. A wine can taste of red fruit and leather at the same time it makes you feel like you're in a cabin listening to love songs on the radio. Now that's a wine I'd like to drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.twitter.com/tkdano\">Tove K. Danovich\u003c/a> \u003cem>is a journalist based in Portland, Ore\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Vegetable Whisperer' Chef Plants The Seeds Of His Own Reinvention",
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"content": "\u003cp>Some people call Jeremy Fox the \"vegetable whisperer,\" the California chef who can coax remarkable flavors out of every part of his produce, even the flowers and leaves that most chefs throw away. One of his famous first-course dishes combines twice-shucked spring peas with macadamia nuts and white chocolate. He has reinvented cooking with vegetables, and in the process, reinvented himself, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Wednesdays, you'll find Fox at the Santa Monica farmer's market, greeting fellow chefs and checking out the veggies at farmer Alex Weiser's stand. He marvels at the Chinese garlic — right out of the field, still packed with dirt. Then he kibitzes with Weiser about some unconventional tubers: oka, yacon , and colorful Peruvian mashua.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mashua is almost in the Nasturtium family, so it's like really spicy, almost like horseradish wasabi,\" says Fox. \"But when you cook it, it mellows out a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"How could I not grow that?\" Weiser says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Plus, it's fun to say mashua,\" Fox adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1346\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-768x517.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1020x686.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1180x794.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-960x646.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-240x162.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-520x350.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Weiser says Fox has inspired him to grow unusual vegetables at his farm in the Tehachapi mountains. \"He appreciates flavor and uniqueness and texture,\" says the farmer. \"I think he realizes, too, where we farm, we have snowfall and hard frost, which give our crops flavor, that terroir.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeremy Fox is a little like those vegetables — with a hard knock life. The 40-year-old grew up in Cleveland and Atlanta eating fast food, and taking far too many prescription medicines for attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. In college, he was inspired to start cooking after watching the culinary film, \"Big Night.\" He went to culinary school in Charleston, S.C., then worked in a few restaurants in the South before heading to California. There, he eventually landed a job at the Bay Area restaurant, Manresa, where he actually started out in charge of the\u003cem> meat\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116841\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon.\" width=\"640\" height=\"961\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-800x1201.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-768x1153.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1180x1772.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-960x1441.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-520x781.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771.jpg 1332w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We were getting in whole pigs and trying to work out charcuterie,\" Fox recalls, \"using every part of the pig, nose to tail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That philosophy shaped Fox's approach to vegetables when he became chef de cuisine at Manresa. The restaurant had its own farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would take mushrooms, and smoke them and fry them, and so it took on... a bacon-like texture,\" says chef Kim Alter, who owns Nightbird restaurant in San Francisco. She worked with Fox at Manresa, and then at Ubuntu, where he became head chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would cook the vegetables like meat,\" says Alter. \"He would truss them, baste them like meat. And it just really opened your eyes as to how you could treat a radish... like a pig. It was pretty cool. And it was all delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ubuntu was \u003cem>very\u003c/em> California: a vegetarian restaurant located below a yoga studio in Napa. One evening in 2008, then-New York Times food critic Frank Bruni came for dinner. He was impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jeremy's a superbly talented chef,\" Bruni says. \"He was determined to make that vegetarian experience as enjoyable as a restaurant with all ingredients at its disposal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni named Ubuntu the country's second best restaurant outside of New York. Here's an excerpt of his review:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Ubuntu is proof that you can do away with all flesh and hold on to hedonism, at least if you keep enough butter, cream, cheese and wine at hand. Ubuntu is where virtue meets naughty sensuality. It's the Angelina Jolie of restaurants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni's review changed everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116842\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg\" alt=\"Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook "On Vegetables."\" width=\"640\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-160x218.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-800x1091.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-768x1047.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1180x1609.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-960x1309.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-240x327.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-375x511.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-520x709.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook \"On Vegetables.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Rick Poon/Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Suddenly, the restaurant was packed, but unprepared. Health inspectors shut it down till they got better refrigeration. But the accolades for Fox kept coming. Food & Wine Magazine named him the best new chef of 2008. He was flown around the country for interviews and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the pressure was too much. Fox says he wasn't sleeping or eating. He lost 40 pounds. His marriage to pastry chef Deanie Hickox fell apart. And he self-medicated with a concoction of sleeping pills and amphetamines. \"I could have died from the amount I was taking,\" he says. \"I kinda felt like I was on a plane in horrific turbulence, hanging on to the sides. That's pretty much how I felt every hour of every day, for several years, to where everything was impending disaster. Lots of anxiety, lots of paranoia, and I lost my grip on everything. \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox left Ubuntu, and pretty much dropped out of the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything got so negative,\" he recalls. \"I'd been told to take a break or get some help. Eventually, it was like, well, let's just end this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox spent a few years in therapy, cleaned up his act, and moved to Los Angeles. He is now head chef at Rustic Canyon restaurant in Santa Monica. He has a new wife, gourmet buyer Rachael Sheridan, and a 16-month-old daughter named Birdie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends are happy for him. \"Now I think he's got this really amazing balance,\" says Alter. \"He's happy, he's doing great food in an environment he loves and that supports him, with a great, beautiful woman and a child.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Fox has finally finished the cookbook he started when he was at Ubuntu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg\" alt=\"Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his "pop" sweatshirt.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1342\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116843\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-800x537.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1020x684.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1180x792.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-960x644.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-520x349.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his \"pop\" sweatshirt. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Finding out I was gonna be a dad was a huge motivator,\" he says, \"to create something that this little kid could be proud of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his newly published book \"On Vegetables\" and a fourth nomination for a James Beard Award, chef Jeremy Fox is back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Some people call Jeremy Fox the \"vegetable whisperer,\" the California chef who can coax remarkable flavors out of every part of his produce, even the flowers and leaves that most chefs throw away. One of his famous first-course dishes combines twice-shucked spring peas with macadamia nuts and white chocolate. He has reinvented cooking with vegetables, and in the process, reinvented himself, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Wednesdays, you'll find Fox at the Santa Monica farmer's market, greeting fellow chefs and checking out the veggies at farmer Alex Weiser's stand. He marvels at the Chinese garlic — right out of the field, still packed with dirt. Then he kibitzes with Weiser about some unconventional tubers: oka, yacon , and colorful Peruvian mashua.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mashua is almost in the Nasturtium family, so it's like really spicy, almost like horseradish wasabi,\" says Fox. \"But when you cook it, it mellows out a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"How could I not grow that?\" Weiser says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Plus, it's fun to say mashua,\" Fox adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116840\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1346\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116840\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-800x538.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-768x517.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1020x686.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-1180x794.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-960x646.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-240x162.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1212_custom-ff2a7137db743e0f18c2346a5fe9d7a7d100d36b-520x350.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs and home cooks alike flock to the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market. This is where Jeremy Fox finds ingredients like salsify flowers and parts of vegetables often overlooked or discarded by other cooks. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Weiser says Fox has inspired him to grow unusual vegetables at his farm in the Tehachapi mountains. \"He appreciates flavor and uniqueness and texture,\" says the farmer. \"I think he realizes, too, where we farm, we have snowfall and hard frost, which give our crops flavor, that terroir.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeremy Fox is a little like those vegetables — with a hard knock life. The 40-year-old grew up in Cleveland and Atlanta eating fast food, and taking far too many prescription medicines for attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder. In college, he was inspired to start cooking after watching the culinary film, \"Big Night.\" He went to culinary school in Charleston, S.C., then worked in a few restaurants in the South before heading to California. There, he eventually landed a job at the Bay Area restaurant, Manresa, where he actually started out in charge of the\u003cem> meat\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116841\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg\" alt=\"Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon.\" width=\"640\" height=\"961\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1020x1532.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-800x1201.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-768x1153.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-1180x1772.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-960x1441.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771-520x781.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1477_custom-315d17c93b42c1237bcceba053e415591428d771.jpg 1332w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Portrait of chef Jeremy Fox at his Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"We were getting in whole pigs and trying to work out charcuterie,\" Fox recalls, \"using every part of the pig, nose to tail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That philosophy shaped Fox's approach to vegetables when he became chef de cuisine at Manresa. The restaurant had its own farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would take mushrooms, and smoke them and fry them, and so it took on... a bacon-like texture,\" says chef Kim Alter, who owns Nightbird restaurant in San Francisco. She worked with Fox at Manresa, and then at Ubuntu, where he became head chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He would cook the vegetables like meat,\" says Alter. \"He would truss them, baste them like meat. And it just really opened your eyes as to how you could treat a radish... like a pig. It was pretty cool. And it was all delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ubuntu was \u003cem>very\u003c/em> California: a vegetarian restaurant located below a yoga studio in Napa. One evening in 2008, then-New York Times food critic Frank Bruni came for dinner. He was impressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Jeremy's a superbly talented chef,\" Bruni says. \"He was determined to make that vegetarian experience as enjoyable as a restaurant with all ingredients at its disposal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni named Ubuntu the country's second best restaurant outside of New York. Here's an excerpt of his review:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Ubuntu is proof that you can do away with all flesh and hold on to hedonism, at least if you keep enough butter, cream, cheese and wine at hand. Ubuntu is where virtue meets naughty sensuality. It's the Angelina Jolie of restaurants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bruni's review changed everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116842\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg\" alt=\"Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook "On Vegetables."\" width=\"640\" height=\"873\" class=\"size-large wp-image-116842\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1020x1391.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-160x218.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-800x1091.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-768x1047.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-1180x1609.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-960x1309.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-240x327.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-375x511.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/221-potatoes-kimchi-egg_custom-0ab9c0624591544bd3cf9de575aef511fe0873c7-520x709.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Potatoes, ramp kimchi, radish and soft-boiled egg. The recipe can be found in Jeremy Fox's new cookbook \"On Vegetables.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Rick Poon/Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Suddenly, the restaurant was packed, but unprepared. Health inspectors shut it down till they got better refrigeration. But the accolades for Fox kept coming. Food & Wine Magazine named him the best new chef of 2008. He was flown around the country for interviews and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the pressure was too much. Fox says he wasn't sleeping or eating. He lost 40 pounds. His marriage to pastry chef Deanie Hickox fell apart. And he self-medicated with a concoction of sleeping pills and amphetamines. \"I could have died from the amount I was taking,\" he says. \"I kinda felt like I was on a plane in horrific turbulence, hanging on to the sides. That's pretty much how I felt every hour of every day, for several years, to where everything was impending disaster. Lots of anxiety, lots of paranoia, and I lost my grip on everything. \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox left Ubuntu, and pretty much dropped out of the scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything got so negative,\" he recalls. \"I'd been told to take a break or get some help. Eventually, it was like, well, let's just end this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fox spent a few years in therapy, cleaned up his act, and moved to Los Angeles. He is now head chef at Rustic Canyon restaurant in Santa Monica. He has a new wife, gourmet buyer Rachael Sheridan, and a 16-month-old daughter named Birdie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Old friends are happy for him. \"Now I think he's got this really amazing balance,\" says Alter. \"He's happy, he's doing great food in an environment he loves and that supports him, with a great, beautiful woman and a child.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Fox has finally finished the cookbook he started when he was at Ubuntu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116843\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg\" alt=\"Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his "pop" sweatshirt.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1342\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116843\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-800x537.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-768x515.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1020x684.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-1180x792.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-960x644.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-375x252.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/jeremy-fox-npr-1469_custom-2067b22a6538b40ece7f6fef962ce5396fbc8230-520x349.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fox at the Santa Monica restaurant, Rustic Canyon, where he's now head chef. Born in Cleveland, he proudly wears his 'Ohio Against the World' hat. And beneath his apron, the proud father of 16 month-old-daughter Birdie wears his \"pop\" sweatshirt. \u003ccite>(Oriana Koren for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Finding out I was gonna be a dad was a huge motivator,\" he says, \"to create something that this little kid could be proud of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With his newly published book \"On Vegetables\" and a fourth nomination for a James Beard Award, chef Jeremy Fox is back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A World Of Flavors In A Single Dish: How Jewish Food Spread Across The Globe",
"title": "A World Of Flavors In A Single Dish: How Jewish Food Spread Across The Globe",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>With a taste of just a single dish from a Jewish family's table at Passover, Joan Nathan can tell a global story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jewish cooking legend, who has nearly a dozen books to her name, has documented the worldwide reach of Jewish food for her latest, \u003cem>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can track people by what their \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em> is,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset\u003c/em>, a Passover staple, is a rough paste usually made of chopped fruits and nuts. It's meant to symbolize the mortar Hebrew slaves used for building before the exodus from Egypt. The basic recipe has assumed different forms depending on local traditions and ingredients, evolving as it traveled from one continent to another over the centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan's newest cookbook has five recipes for \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em>, from every part of the globe. They range from a Maine version with blueberries and cranberries to a Brazilian recipe with cashews to a Persian variety featuring pomegranate juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a perfect way to illustrate the wandering of the Jews,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jewish cuisine is not as distinct as Indian or Mexican food, Nathan says, because Jews live all over the world. Wherever she travels, she seeks out the local food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, during a visit to Tbilisi, Georgia, in the 1980s, a rabbi served her a diced eggplant dish with herbs and spices from the region. A little later in Italy, she enjoyed practically the same mélange – only with a different palate of flavorings reflecting the local tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>King Solomon's Table\u003c/em>, Nathan also writes about the tradition of eggs on the Seder table. \"Many Jews have the custom of starting the Passover Seder with eggs, either cooked in salt water or even cooked overnight in sand, a custom still followed today in North Africa,\" she writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe she shares for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated on the Greek island of Corfu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/jESNuHB4NOE\u003cbr>\nJoan Nathan makes this recipe from King Solomon's Table to be the first dish eaten during the Passover meal.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maia Stern and Beck Harlan/NPR YouTube\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan says she's been studying these traditions for a long time, and her book is her way of \"putting everything together – things that I've been thinking about, that I've been ruminating about for years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: \u003cem>Halleq\u003c/em>, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Persian \u003cem>Haroset \u003c/em>with Dates, Apples, Pistachio\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>s\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> and Pomegranate Juice \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 6 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 cup (140 grams) almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (125 grams) roasted, shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (100 grams) walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) black raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) golden raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (175 grams) dates, pitted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons cinnamon \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons ground cardamom\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large apple, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large pear, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bananas, peeled \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) pomegranate juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) sweet kosher wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Every Passover, I make about five kinds of \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>from different parts of the world. For me, the various blends, representing the mortar used to make bricks in slavery in ancient Egypt, reflect the regional dispersal of the Jews throughout history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116707\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1923px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg\" alt=\"Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish.\" width=\"1923\" height=\"1464\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116707\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg 1923w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-160x122.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-800x609.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-768x585.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1020x777.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1180x898.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-960x731.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-240x183.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-375x285.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-520x396.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1923px) 100vw, 1923px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish. \u003ccite>(Jonathan Baer/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset, \u003c/em>a popular dipping sauce for feasts in Babylon, was brought to Jerusalem and later added to the Passover Seder after the destruction of the Second Temple. For centuries, the sauce, originally made of dates, was slowly cooked in copper pots, used to cook down the fruit into a syrupy honey, making the biblical date honey. Then it was topped with ground walnuts (see my \u003cem>Jewish Cooking in America, \u003c/em>page 387). Later, in Baghdad (about thirty miles from Babylon), it was traditional to buy the dates, press them through a special machine, letting the syrup ooze out, and then heat the dates very slowly in a copper pot until they were the thick consistency of a jam-like syrup. I have heard stories about men and women who would roam the streets of Baghdad hawking this date honey served with clotted cream on bread or matzo for breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Jews settled on the Silk Road or throughout the Mediterranean, they either brought with them their recipe for \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>if they could find all the ingredients, or created new ones, based on ingredients where they lived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egyptian \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>includes raisins, dates, and nuts, and Persian \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>called \u003cem>halleq, \u003c/em>is filled with nuts and dried fruits, pomegranate juice, bananas, and cardamom as the prominent spice, but uncooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large food processor, combine the almonds, pistachios, walnuts, black and golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and nutmeg. Pulse until the nuts are coarsely chopped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the apple, pear, and bananas, then pulse until coarsely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 1/2 cup of the pomegranate juice, and 1/2 cup of the wine. Pulse again, adding more vinegar, juice, or wine to taste or as needed to make a coarse paste. Do not purée; the mixture should retain some crunch.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe:\u003cem> Huevos Haminados con Spinaci, \u003c/em>Long-Cooked Hard-Boiled Eggs with Spinach\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116708\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg\" alt=\"Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116708\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece. \u003ccite>(Beck Harlan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>12 large eggs, preferably fresh from a farmers' market\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (225 grams) red onion (about 1 large), peeled and chopped coarsely\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 pounds (675 grams) spinach, fresh or frozen (thawed and drained if frozen)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Put the eggs in a cooking pot and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Then add the olive oil, onions, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Cool and remove the eggs with a slotted spoon. Tap the eggs gently against the counter and peel under cold running water, keeping them as whole as possible.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the peeled eggs to the pot with the seasoned water and summer very slowly uncovered for at least 2 hours, or until the water is almost evaporated and the onions almost dissolved. The eggs will become dark and creamy as the cooking water evaporates and they absorb all the flavoring.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the eggs carefully to a bowl, rubbing into the cooking liquid any of the cream that forms on the outside. Heat the remaining cooking liquid over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and add the spinach. Cook the spinach until most of the liquid is reduced, stirring occasionally with a wooden spook, about 30 minutes, or until the spinach is creamy and well cooked. Serve a dollop of spinach with a hard-boiled egg on top as the first part of the Seder meal or as a first course of any meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NOTE:\u003c/strong> To see if the eggs are really boiled, remove one egg from the water and spin it on a flat cutting board. If it twirls in one place, it is hard-boiled. If it wobbles all over the board, it is not cooked yet and the weight isn't distributed evenly. The easiest way of peeling a hot hard-boiled egg is to put it under cold water between your hands and rub it quickly until it cracks, then peel under the running water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prepare the symbolic egg for the Passover Seder plate, boil the egg in its shell, dry it, and then light a match underneath to char it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World\u003cem> by Joan Nathan. Published by Knopf.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Cooking legend Joan Nathan documents the worldwide reach of Jewish food in her new book, \u003cem>King Solomon's Table\u003c/em>. One example is \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em>, a Passover staple that's been adapted to suit many local tastes.",
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"description": "Cooking legend Joan Nathan documents the worldwide reach of Jewish food in her new book, King Solomon's Table. One example is haroset, a Passover staple that's been adapted to suit many local tastes.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>With a taste of just a single dish from a Jewish family's table at Passover, Joan Nathan can tell a global story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jewish cooking legend, who has nearly a dozen books to her name, has documented the worldwide reach of Jewish food for her latest, \u003cem>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can track people by what their \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em> is,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset\u003c/em>, a Passover staple, is a rough paste usually made of chopped fruits and nuts. It's meant to symbolize the mortar Hebrew slaves used for building before the exodus from Egypt. The basic recipe has assumed different forms depending on local traditions and ingredients, evolving as it traveled from one continent to another over the centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan's newest cookbook has five recipes for \u003cem>haroset\u003c/em>, from every part of the globe. They range from a Maine version with blueberries and cranberries to a Brazilian recipe with cashews to a Persian variety featuring pomegranate juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a perfect way to illustrate the wandering of the Jews,\" Nathan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jewish cuisine is not as distinct as Indian or Mexican food, Nathan says, because Jews live all over the world. Wherever she travels, she seeks out the local food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, during a visit to Tbilisi, Georgia, in the 1980s, a rabbi served her a diced eggplant dish with herbs and spices from the region. A little later in Italy, she enjoyed practically the same mélange – only with a different palate of flavorings reflecting the local tastes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003cem>King Solomon's Table\u003c/em>, Nathan also writes about the tradition of eggs on the Seder table. \"Many Jews have the custom of starting the Passover Seder with eggs, either cooked in salt water or even cooked overnight in sand, a custom still followed today in North Africa,\" she writes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe she shares for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated on the Greek island of Corfu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/jESNuHB4NOE\u003cbr>\nJoan Nathan makes this recipe from King Solomon's Table to be the first dish eaten during the Passover meal.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Maia Stern and Beck Harlan/NPR YouTube\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nathan says she's been studying these traditions for a long time, and her book is her way of \"putting everything together – things that I've been thinking about, that I've been ruminating about for years.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: \u003cem>Halleq\u003c/em>, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>Persian \u003cem>Haroset \u003c/em>with Dates, Apples, Pistachio\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>s\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> and Pomegranate Juice \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 6 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 cup (140 grams) almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (125 grams) roasted, shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (100 grams) walnuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) black raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (150 grams) golden raisins\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (175 grams) dates, pitted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons cinnamon \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 teaspoons ground cardamom\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large apple, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large pear, peeled, cored, and quartered\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 bananas, peeled \u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 tablespoons cider vinegar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) pomegranate juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240ml) sweet kosher wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Every Passover, I make about five kinds of \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>from different parts of the world. For me, the various blends, representing the mortar used to make bricks in slavery in ancient Egypt, reflect the regional dispersal of the Jews throughout history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116707\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1923px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg\" alt=\"Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish.\" width=\"1923\" height=\"1464\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116707\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282.jpg 1923w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-160x122.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-800x609.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-768x585.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1020x777.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-1180x898.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-960x731.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-240x183.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-375x285.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/joan-nathan-2-harosets-020-2_custom-fafcfd4c31d8bab59f01d4594722a010a0e27282-520x396.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1923px) 100vw, 1923px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cookbook author Joan Nathan uses this chopper, which she found at an antique store, to make haroset, a traditional Passover dish. \u003ccite>(Jonathan Baer/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Haroset, \u003c/em>a popular dipping sauce for feasts in Babylon, was brought to Jerusalem and later added to the Passover Seder after the destruction of the Second Temple. For centuries, the sauce, originally made of dates, was slowly cooked in copper pots, used to cook down the fruit into a syrupy honey, making the biblical date honey. Then it was topped with ground walnuts (see my \u003cem>Jewish Cooking in America, \u003c/em>page 387). Later, in Baghdad (about thirty miles from Babylon), it was traditional to buy the dates, press them through a special machine, letting the syrup ooze out, and then heat the dates very slowly in a copper pot until they were the thick consistency of a jam-like syrup. I have heard stories about men and women who would roam the streets of Baghdad hawking this date honey served with clotted cream on bread or matzo for breakfast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Jews settled on the Silk Road or throughout the Mediterranean, they either brought with them their recipe for \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>if they could find all the ingredients, or created new ones, based on ingredients where they lived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egyptian \u003cem>haroset \u003c/em>includes raisins, dates, and nuts, and Persian \u003cem>haroset, \u003c/em>called \u003cem>halleq, \u003c/em>is filled with nuts and dried fruits, pomegranate juice, bananas, and cardamom as the prominent spice, but uncooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>In a large food processor, combine the almonds, pistachios, walnuts, black and golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, and nutmeg. Pulse until the nuts are coarsely chopped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Add the apple, pear, and bananas, then pulse until coarsely chopped. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 1/2 cup of the pomegranate juice, and 1/2 cup of the wine. Pulse again, adding more vinegar, juice, or wine to taste or as needed to make a coarse paste. Do not purée; the mixture should retain some crunch.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe:\u003cem> Huevos Haminados con Spinaci, \u003c/em>Long-Cooked Hard-Boiled Eggs with Spinach\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116708\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg\" alt=\"Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1332\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116708\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/harlan_npr_passover_joannathan_5_custom-4722243ac68f44a146c124d74be2e797db6d82b7-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joan Nathan's recipe for hard-boiled eggs with spinach originated in Greece. \u003ccite>(Beck Harlan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yield: 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>12 large eggs, preferably fresh from a farmers' market\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups (225 grams) red onion (about 1 large), peeled and chopped coarsely\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 pounds (675 grams) spinach, fresh or frozen (thawed and drained if frozen)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Put the eggs in a cooking pot and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Then add the olive oil, onions, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Cool and remove the eggs with a slotted spoon. Tap the eggs gently against the counter and peel under cold running water, keeping them as whole as possible.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the peeled eggs to the pot with the seasoned water and summer very slowly uncovered for at least 2 hours, or until the water is almost evaporated and the onions almost dissolved. The eggs will become dark and creamy as the cooking water evaporates and they absorb all the flavoring.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the eggs carefully to a bowl, rubbing into the cooking liquid any of the cream that forms on the outside. Heat the remaining cooking liquid over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and add the spinach. Cook the spinach until most of the liquid is reduced, stirring occasionally with a wooden spook, about 30 minutes, or until the spinach is creamy and well cooked. Serve a dollop of spinach with a hard-boiled egg on top as the first part of the Seder meal or as a first course of any meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>NOTE:\u003c/strong> To see if the eggs are really boiled, remove one egg from the water and spin it on a flat cutting board. If it twirls in one place, it is hard-boiled. If it wobbles all over the board, it is not cooked yet and the weight isn't distributed evenly. The easiest way of peeling a hot hard-boiled egg is to put it under cold water between your hands and rub it quickly until it cracks, then peel under the running water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To prepare the symbolic egg for the Passover Seder plate, boil the egg in its shell, dry it, and then light a match underneath to char it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes from \u003c/em>King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking from Around the World\u003cem> by Joan Nathan. Published by Knopf.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Taste Of Wine Isn't All In Your Head, But Your Brain Sure Helps",
"title": "The Taste Of Wine Isn't All In Your Head, But Your Brain Sure Helps",
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"content": "\u003cp>What do listening to music, hitting a baseball and solving a complex math problem have in common? They all activate \u003cem>less\u003c/em> gray matter than drinking wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Yale neuroscientist Gordon Shepherd, the flavor of wine \"engages more of our brain than any other human behavior.\" The apparently simple act of sipping Merlot involves a complex interplay of air and liquid controlled by coordinated movements of the the tongue, jaw, diaphragm and throat. Inside the mouth, molecules in wine stimulate thousands of taste and odor receptors, sending a flavor signal to the brain that triggers massive cognitive computation involving pattern recognition, memory, value judgment, emotion and of course, pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whereas most wine writers tend to focus on the various elements that go into the wine itself — the grape, the oak, terroir, the winemaker — Shepherd's subject is the drinker. He explores biomechanics, physiology and neuroscience to describe a journey that begins as wine passes the lips and ends with a lingering \"finish\" that can last for minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116526\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/521820145/neuroenology-how-the-brain-creates-the-taste-of-wine\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Neuroenology How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine by Gordon M. Shepherd\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116526\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Neuroenology\u003cbr>How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine\u003cbr>by Gordon M. Shepherd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you've ever wondered how many muscles there are in the tongue (eight), if a high-fat diet can affect the perception of wine (it can), or if it's possible to experience the full flavor of a wine that's been spat out (it is not), Shepherd has answers — extraordinarily detailed, scientifically rigorous answers. I spoke to Shepherd about his new book, \u003cem>Neuroenology: How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine.\u003c/em> Our interview has been condensed and edited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The subtitle of your book is \"How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine.\" Can you explain what that means?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The analogy one can use is color. The objects we see don't have color themselves — light hits them and bounces off. It's when light strikes our eyes that it activates systems in the brain that create color from those different wavelengths. Similarly, the molecules in wine don't have taste or flavor, but when they stimulate our brains, the brain creates flavor the same way it creates color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chapter one is on fluid dynamics, a subject you almost never hear mentioned by wine connoisseurs. How does fluid dynamics inform our understanding of wine?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You don't just put wine in your mouth and leave it there. You move it about and then swallow it, which is a very complex motor act. If you search on YouTube for anyone doing serious wine tasting, they are working it with their mouths. It's a very active process. So to understand the physiology of tasting wine, it's necessary to give people a whole new context of how wine sensing and wine tasting takes place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You talk about a \"hidden force\" in wine tasting. What is it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you sniff wine in the glass, you appreciate the bouquet. That's called \"orthonasal\" smell — the external smelling we're all familiar with. But what most people are unaware of is that when you take wine in your mouth and experience the flavor, most of that flavor is due to a kind of internal smelling. The air comes in from the throat, not your nostrils. That's called \"retronasal\" smell. The molecules are carried to the same receptor cells in the nose, but from the opposite direction. This is very important when it comes to wine flavor. An example is the famous jelly bean test. If you put a jelly bean in your mouth and plug your nose and sense it with your tongue, all you sense is sweet from the sugar. But if you then unplug your nose, suddenly you're flooded with the full flavor experience, and it's because you're smelling through the back of your nose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>One thing you write about that I've never read elsewhere is the effect saliva has on wine.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our bodies produce saliva all the time, and saliva has stuff in it — stuff that both dilutes the wine and interacts with it. So as soon as the wine enters your mouth, it immediately begins to change. For example, saliva contains enzymes that break down the molecules in the wine to create compounds that effervesce into the air to stimulate the smell receptors in your nose. This produces new compounds that were not originally in the wine — they were created by this interaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The amount of saliva a person produces can affect their perception of wine. So can things like age, gender, or even the amount of acetone — a byproduct of energy metabolism — in a person's breath.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the time of day. And whether or not they're depressed. If we're talking about smell, we have about 350 different kinds of olfactory receptors. They are not the same between individuals — yours will be different than mine. And they're not always the same over the course of months or years. As the cells turn over, they can change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Given all these subjective variables, and the fact that the brain \"creates\" the taste of wine, is it possible for two people to experience the same wine in the same way?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is still a commonality. We all know it's a liquid, after all. We all know it comes from fruit. We all know it contains alcohol. And we all have saliva that is more or less the same. So probably 90 percent is the same and 10 percent is different. That's part of the pleasure of wine —comparing your pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Does your research suggest wine drinkers are doing anything wrong?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a few sips or drinks, people are just downing the stuff. There needs to be more to it than that. If you take too large a sip, you've saturated your system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is expensive stemware worth it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My wife and I have a sit-down meal every night. We used to use modest stemware, but we would occasionally knock it over and it would break, so now we use plain water glasses. But if we're having a proper sort of dinner, we use some kind of glass with a bowl so you can capture the aroma. Just fill the bottom few cubic centimeters, because if you fill up a glass you don't get much aroma. The reason for having a large bowl is that it amplifies the headspace for sniffing in the bouquet and you take small sips. But once you understand the flow dynamics that I describe, you can make your own choice as to how important the glass will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I will end with what may be the most enduring question in science. What's the best value in wine for under $20?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For table wine, we stick to around $10 or $12 per bottle, and it's a fun challenge to find a wine in that range. I don't want to mention any names, because that would give someone a commercial advantage. For more interesting wines, we like Sancerre\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>because it seems to have an edge to it. [\u003cem>Editor's note: Sancerre is a designated wine district in the eastern Loire Valley known mostly for wines made from Sauvignon Blanc.\u003c/em>] One of the reasons I prefer European wines is they have a slightly lower alcoholic content. There is research that shows people prefer wines with less alcohol. This is important, because global warming is driving alcohol content up, not down.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Schatzker is the author of \u003c/em>The Dorito Effect: The Surprising New Truth About Food and Flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Savoring the flavor of wine activates more gray matter than solving a complex math problem, according to neuroscientist Gordon Shepherd. His new book, \u003cem>Neurenology, \u003c/em>explores your brain on wine.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What do listening to music, hitting a baseball and solving a complex math problem have in common? They all activate \u003cem>less\u003c/em> gray matter than drinking wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Yale neuroscientist Gordon Shepherd, the flavor of wine \"engages more of our brain than any other human behavior.\" The apparently simple act of sipping Merlot involves a complex interplay of air and liquid controlled by coordinated movements of the the tongue, jaw, diaphragm and throat. Inside the mouth, molecules in wine stimulate thousands of taste and odor receptors, sending a flavor signal to the brain that triggers massive cognitive computation involving pattern recognition, memory, value judgment, emotion and of course, pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whereas most wine writers tend to focus on the various elements that go into the wine itself — the grape, the oak, terroir, the winemaker — Shepherd's subject is the drinker. He explores biomechanics, physiology and neuroscience to describe a journey that begins as wine passes the lips and ends with a lingering \"finish\" that can last for minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116526\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/521820145/neuroenology-how-the-brain-creates-the-taste-of-wine\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Neuroenology How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine by Gordon M. Shepherd\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-116526\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/9780231177009_custom-631b6fcea5673e831800a02a6d11e9a6348aa71b-s400-c85-375x563.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Neuroenology\u003cbr>How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine\u003cbr>by Gordon M. Shepherd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you've ever wondered how many muscles there are in the tongue (eight), if a high-fat diet can affect the perception of wine (it can), or if it's possible to experience the full flavor of a wine that's been spat out (it is not), Shepherd has answers — extraordinarily detailed, scientifically rigorous answers. I spoke to Shepherd about his new book, \u003cem>Neuroenology: How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine.\u003c/em> Our interview has been condensed and edited.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The subtitle of your book is \"How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine.\" Can you explain what that means?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The analogy one can use is color. The objects we see don't have color themselves — light hits them and bounces off. It's when light strikes our eyes that it activates systems in the brain that create color from those different wavelengths. Similarly, the molecules in wine don't have taste or flavor, but when they stimulate our brains, the brain creates flavor the same way it creates color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chapter one is on fluid dynamics, a subject you almost never hear mentioned by wine connoisseurs. How does fluid dynamics inform our understanding of wine?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You don't just put wine in your mouth and leave it there. You move it about and then swallow it, which is a very complex motor act. If you search on YouTube for anyone doing serious wine tasting, they are working it with their mouths. It's a very active process. So to understand the physiology of tasting wine, it's necessary to give people a whole new context of how wine sensing and wine tasting takes place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You talk about a \"hidden force\" in wine tasting. What is it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you sniff wine in the glass, you appreciate the bouquet. That's called \"orthonasal\" smell — the external smelling we're all familiar with. But what most people are unaware of is that when you take wine in your mouth and experience the flavor, most of that flavor is due to a kind of internal smelling. The air comes in from the throat, not your nostrils. That's called \"retronasal\" smell. The molecules are carried to the same receptor cells in the nose, but from the opposite direction. This is very important when it comes to wine flavor. An example is the famous jelly bean test. If you put a jelly bean in your mouth and plug your nose and sense it with your tongue, all you sense is sweet from the sugar. But if you then unplug your nose, suddenly you're flooded with the full flavor experience, and it's because you're smelling through the back of your nose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>One thing you write about that I've never read elsewhere is the effect saliva has on wine.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our bodies produce saliva all the time, and saliva has stuff in it — stuff that both dilutes the wine and interacts with it. So as soon as the wine enters your mouth, it immediately begins to change. For example, saliva contains enzymes that break down the molecules in the wine to create compounds that effervesce into the air to stimulate the smell receptors in your nose. This produces new compounds that were not originally in the wine — they were created by this interaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The amount of saliva a person produces can affect their perception of wine. So can things like age, gender, or even the amount of acetone — a byproduct of energy metabolism — in a person's breath.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the time of day. And whether or not they're depressed. If we're talking about smell, we have about 350 different kinds of olfactory receptors. They are not the same between individuals — yours will be different than mine. And they're not always the same over the course of months or years. As the cells turn over, they can change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Given all these subjective variables, and the fact that the brain \"creates\" the taste of wine, is it possible for two people to experience the same wine in the same way?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is still a commonality. We all know it's a liquid, after all. We all know it comes from fruit. We all know it contains alcohol. And we all have saliva that is more or less the same. So probably 90 percent is the same and 10 percent is different. That's part of the pleasure of wine —comparing your pleasure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Does your research suggest wine drinkers are doing anything wrong?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a few sips or drinks, people are just downing the stuff. There needs to be more to it than that. If you take too large a sip, you've saturated your system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Is expensive stemware worth it?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My wife and I have a sit-down meal every night. We used to use modest stemware, but we would occasionally knock it over and it would break, so now we use plain water glasses. But if we're having a proper sort of dinner, we use some kind of glass with a bowl so you can capture the aroma. Just fill the bottom few cubic centimeters, because if you fill up a glass you don't get much aroma. The reason for having a large bowl is that it amplifies the headspace for sniffing in the bouquet and you take small sips. But once you understand the flow dynamics that I describe, you can make your own choice as to how important the glass will be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I will end with what may be the most enduring question in science. What's the best value in wine for under $20?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For table wine, we stick to around $10 or $12 per bottle, and it's a fun challenge to find a wine in that range. I don't want to mention any names, because that would give someone a commercial advantage. For more interesting wines, we like Sancerre\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>because it seems to have an edge to it. [\u003cem>Editor's note: Sancerre is a designated wine district in the eastern Loire Valley known mostly for wines made from Sauvignon Blanc.\u003c/em>] One of the reasons I prefer European wines is they have a slightly lower alcoholic content. There is research that shows people prefer wines with less alcohol. This is important, because global warming is driving alcohol content up, not down.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mark Schatzker is the author of \u003c/em>The Dorito Effect: The Surprising New Truth About Food and Flavor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Doctor's Book Presents The Case Against 'Dairy Crack'",
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"content": "\u003cp>The average American eats more than 33 pounds of cheese a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.pcrm.org/media/experts/neal-barnard\">Neal Barnard\u003c/a>, physician and president of the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine. And that's a problem, he says, because it's helping to make us overweight and sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/neal-d-barnard-md-facc/the-cheese-trap/9781455594689/\">Barnard's new book\u003c/a>,\u003cem> The Cheese Trap: How Breaking a Surprising Addiction Will Help You Lose Weight, Gain Energy, and Get Healthy\u003c/em>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>is set to hit shelves Tuesday.\u003cem> \u003c/em>In it, Barnard writes about cheese in strong terms:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Loaded with calories, high in sodium, packing more cholesterol than steak, and sprinkled with hormones — if cheese were any worse, it would be Vaseline ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some foods are fattening. Others are addictive. Cheese is both — fattening \u003cem>and \u003c/em>addictive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I'd never before thought in terms of dairy products being addictive (with the personal exception of milk chocolate, I admit). Barnard explains that dairy protein — specifically a protein called casein — has opiate molecules built in. When babies nurse, he notes, they're getting dosed with a mild drug: \"Milk contains opiates that reward the baby for nursing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no different with the cow's milk — or other mammalian milk — from which cheese is made. In fact, Barnard says, the process of cheese-making \u003cem>concentrates \u003c/em>the casein:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A cup of milk contains about 7.7 grams of protein, 80 percent of which is casein, more or less. Turning it into Cheddar cheese multiplies the protein count seven-fold, to 56 grams. It is the most concentrated form of casein in any food in the grocery store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it dairy crack.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/516780678/the-cheese-trap-how-breaking-a-surprising-addiction-will-help-you-lose-weight-ga\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Cheese Trap\" width=\"398\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-115551\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85.jpg 398w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85-160x241.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85-240x362.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85-375x565.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 398px) 100vw, 398px\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. produces more cheese than any other country in the world, according to Barnard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big issue, he says, is that cheese lovers aren't just addicted to a delicious food, they're addicted to one that may seriously contribute to health problems. He cites studies in the book that tie eating cheese to weight gain and risks of numerous diseases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barnard suggests that giving up cheese is associated, for example, with relief of asthma symptoms. In an email, Barnard summarized the case for this association this way:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Dairy proteins appear to trigger inflammation, apparently by triggering the release of antibodies, which leads to the constriction of the tiny muscles in the airways. By avoiding dairy proteins, the trigger for the attacks is gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>In the book, Barnard notes that vitamin D may play an important role in protecting us against some types of cancers. Citing prostate-cancer data, he suggests that because dairy products are high in calcium and calcium intake can slow down activation of vitamin D, cancer risks may increase with cheese-eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also tells the story of Ruth Heidrich, who opted for a vegan diet and exercise instead of chemotherapy and radiation to fight breast cancer that had spread to her bones, liver and one lung. It is fabulous that this approach \u003ca href=\"https://www.forksoverknives.com/how-i-went-from-cancer-patient-to-ironman-triathlete/\">succeeded for Heidrich in quite remarkable fashion\u003c/a>, but cancer affects each person differently — and I do worry that anecdotes like this one may influence some cancer patients to turn away from treatments they need. (Yes, I know chemotherapy and radiation can be highly toxic. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/13.7/2013/11/28/247220289/a-messy-sort-of-gratitude-giving-thanks-for-radiation\">I've been there\u003c/a>. But they can also save lives.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldairycouncil.org/\">National Dairy Council\u003c/a> does not endorse Barnard's descriptions of cheese. On Tuesday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldairycouncil.org/content/contributors/greg-miller\">Greg Miller\u003c/a>, the council's chief science officer, responded to my request for comment about some of Barnard's claims by offering a perspective firmly centered on cheese-eating as part of a healthy diet. Among the points Miller made were these:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"On average, Americans eat about 1 serving (i.e., 1.5 ounces is a My Plate serving) of cheese per day. There are lots of options to select from — Swiss for low-sodium, reduced-fat or regular. Plus, cheese contains nutrients like protein, calcium, phosphorus and B vitamins (i.e., B12, pantothenic acid and niacin).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheese in moderation can be part of a healthy eating plan meeting total fat, saturated fat, and sodium recommendations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And as far as that \"dairy crack\" crack of Barnard's?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The idea that any food, including cheese, can be addictive in the same way as any drug is misleading and will only add to consumer confusion about healthy eating,\" Miller said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additionally, Miller points to \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21696306\">research from Harvard School of Public Health\u003c/a> that shows no association between cheese and long-term weight gain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For his part, Barnard includes a chapter in \u003cem>The Cheese Trap \u003c/em>called \"The Industry Behind the Addiction\" that describes \"the relentless lobbying of the powerful dairy industry\" to promote cheese despite its risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barnard's central message about the costs of cheese-eating includes something I find to be quite important: costs to other animals, like dairy cows. He summed up those costs in his email:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"All of us are concerned about our personal health and that of our families. But we are not alone on this planet, and our food choices have enormous effects on animals and the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dairy cows are artificially inseminated annually, then separated from their offspring so that we can take their milk, then killed by around age 4 so that their higher-production offspring can take their place. A visit to a dairy farm will soon convince any thinking person that this is not civilization's proudest achievement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>What about a person who is convinced by Barnard's human-health-and-animal-welfare argument to the extent that she decides to reduce her cheese intake, rather than giving up cheese altogether?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People are free to make their own choices, of course,\" Barnard wrote. He continued:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"However, if one's goal is to lose weight, there is something to be said for not teasing yourself with occasional doses of the very food that caused the problem in the first place. Better to end that bad love affair. If a person is concerned about asthma, migraine, rheumatoid arthritis, or other sensitivities, one soon loses all desire for the food product that caused the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, if you have children, it would be best to never introduce them to unhealthful foods at all. The taste for cheese is a great introduction to childhood obesity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Cheese Trap \u003c/em>concludes with more than 60 pages of recipes, ranging from oats-and-cashew-based \"cheesecake\" to whole-grain pizza. No surprise: Cheese is not included among the ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Barbara J. King is an anthropology professor emerita at the College of William and Mary. She often writes about the cognition, emotion and welfare of animals, and about biological anthropology, human evolution and gender issues. Barbara's most recent book on animals is titled \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/176686699/how-animals-grieve\">How Animals Grieve\u003c/a>, \u003cem>and her forthcoming book, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Personalities-Plate-Lives-Minds-Animals/dp/022619518X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481142594&sr=8-1&keywords=personalities+on+the+plate\">Personalities on the Plate: The Lives and Minds of Animals We Eat\u003c/a>, will be published in March.\u003cem> You can keep up with what she is thinking on Twitter: \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/bjkingape\">@bjkingape\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The average American eats more than 33 pounds of cheese a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is according to \u003ca href=\"http://www.pcrm.org/media/experts/neal-barnard\">Neal Barnard\u003c/a>, physician and president of the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine. And that's a problem, he says, because it's helping to make us overweight and sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/titles/neal-d-barnard-md-facc/the-cheese-trap/9781455594689/\">Barnard's new book\u003c/a>,\u003cem> The Cheese Trap: How Breaking a Surprising Addiction Will Help You Lose Weight, Gain Energy, and Get Healthy\u003c/em>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>is set to hit shelves Tuesday.\u003cem> \u003c/em>In it, Barnard writes about cheese in strong terms:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Loaded with calories, high in sodium, packing more cholesterol than steak, and sprinkled with hormones — if cheese were any worse, it would be Vaseline ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some foods are fattening. Others are addictive. Cheese is both — fattening \u003cem>and \u003c/em>addictive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>I'd never before thought in terms of dairy products being addictive (with the personal exception of milk chocolate, I admit). Barnard explains that dairy protein — specifically a protein called casein — has opiate molecules built in. When babies nurse, he notes, they're getting dosed with a mild drug: \"Milk contains opiates that reward the baby for nursing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no different with the cow's milk — or other mammalian milk — from which cheese is made. In fact, Barnard says, the process of cheese-making \u003cem>concentrates \u003c/em>the casein:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A cup of milk contains about 7.7 grams of protein, 80 percent of which is casein, more or less. Turning it into Cheddar cheese multiplies the protein count seven-fold, to 56 grams. It is the most concentrated form of casein in any food in the grocery store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it dairy crack.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/516780678/the-cheese-trap-how-breaking-a-surprising-addiction-will-help-you-lose-weight-ga\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Cheese Trap\" width=\"398\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-115551\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85.jpg 398w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85-160x241.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85-240x362.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781455594689_custom-80fe5912d3033a82e452f54c62edaa89e0777474-s700-c85-375x565.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 398px) 100vw, 398px\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. produces more cheese than any other country in the world, according to Barnard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big issue, he says, is that cheese lovers aren't just addicted to a delicious food, they're addicted to one that may seriously contribute to health problems. He cites studies in the book that tie eating cheese to weight gain and risks of numerous diseases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barnard suggests that giving up cheese is associated, for example, with relief of asthma symptoms. In an email, Barnard summarized the case for this association this way:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Dairy proteins appear to trigger inflammation, apparently by triggering the release of antibodies, which leads to the constriction of the tiny muscles in the airways. By avoiding dairy proteins, the trigger for the attacks is gone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>In the book, Barnard notes that vitamin D may play an important role in protecting us against some types of cancers. Citing prostate-cancer data, he suggests that because dairy products are high in calcium and calcium intake can slow down activation of vitamin D, cancer risks may increase with cheese-eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also tells the story of Ruth Heidrich, who opted for a vegan diet and exercise instead of chemotherapy and radiation to fight breast cancer that had spread to her bones, liver and one lung. It is fabulous that this approach \u003ca href=\"https://www.forksoverknives.com/how-i-went-from-cancer-patient-to-ironman-triathlete/\">succeeded for Heidrich in quite remarkable fashion\u003c/a>, but cancer affects each person differently — and I do worry that anecdotes like this one may influence some cancer patients to turn away from treatments they need. (Yes, I know chemotherapy and radiation can be highly toxic. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/13.7/2013/11/28/247220289/a-messy-sort-of-gratitude-giving-thanks-for-radiation\">I've been there\u003c/a>. But they can also save lives.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldairycouncil.org/\">National Dairy Council\u003c/a> does not endorse Barnard's descriptions of cheese. On Tuesday, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldairycouncil.org/content/contributors/greg-miller\">Greg Miller\u003c/a>, the council's chief science officer, responded to my request for comment about some of Barnard's claims by offering a perspective firmly centered on cheese-eating as part of a healthy diet. Among the points Miller made were these:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"On average, Americans eat about 1 serving (i.e., 1.5 ounces is a My Plate serving) of cheese per day. There are lots of options to select from — Swiss for low-sodium, reduced-fat or regular. Plus, cheese contains nutrients like protein, calcium, phosphorus and B vitamins (i.e., B12, pantothenic acid and niacin).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheese in moderation can be part of a healthy eating plan meeting total fat, saturated fat, and sodium recommendations.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And as far as that \"dairy crack\" crack of Barnard's?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The idea that any food, including cheese, can be addictive in the same way as any drug is misleading and will only add to consumer confusion about healthy eating,\" Miller said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additionally, Miller points to \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21696306\">research from Harvard School of Public Health\u003c/a> that shows no association between cheese and long-term weight gain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For his part, Barnard includes a chapter in \u003cem>The Cheese Trap \u003c/em>called \"The Industry Behind the Addiction\" that describes \"the relentless lobbying of the powerful dairy industry\" to promote cheese despite its risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barnard's central message about the costs of cheese-eating includes something I find to be quite important: costs to other animals, like dairy cows. He summed up those costs in his email:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"All of us are concerned about our personal health and that of our families. But we are not alone on this planet, and our food choices have enormous effects on animals and the environment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dairy cows are artificially inseminated annually, then separated from their offspring so that we can take their milk, then killed by around age 4 so that their higher-production offspring can take their place. A visit to a dairy farm will soon convince any thinking person that this is not civilization's proudest achievement.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>What about a person who is convinced by Barnard's human-health-and-animal-welfare argument to the extent that she decides to reduce her cheese intake, rather than giving up cheese altogether?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People are free to make their own choices, of course,\" Barnard wrote. He continued:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"However, if one's goal is to lose weight, there is something to be said for not teasing yourself with occasional doses of the very food that caused the problem in the first place. Better to end that bad love affair. If a person is concerned about asthma, migraine, rheumatoid arthritis, or other sensitivities, one soon loses all desire for the food product that caused the problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, if you have children, it would be best to never introduce them to unhealthful foods at all. The taste for cheese is a great introduction to childhood obesity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Cheese Trap \u003c/em>concludes with more than 60 pages of recipes, ranging from oats-and-cashew-based \"cheesecake\" to whole-grain pizza. No surprise: Cheese is not included among the ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Barbara J. King is an anthropology professor emerita at the College of William and Mary. She often writes about the cognition, emotion and welfare of animals, and about biological anthropology, human evolution and gender issues. Barbara's most recent book on animals is titled \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/176686699/how-animals-grieve\">How Animals Grieve\u003c/a>, \u003cem>and her forthcoming book, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Personalities-Plate-Lives-Minds-Animals/dp/022619518X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481142594&sr=8-1&keywords=personalities+on+the+plate\">Personalities on the Plate: The Lives and Minds of Animals We Eat\u003c/a>, will be published in March.\u003cem> You can keep up with what she is thinking on Twitter: \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/bjkingape\">@bjkingape\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cannibalism: It's 'Perfectly Natural,' A New Scientific History Argues",
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"content": "\u003cp>There are very few scenarios where I could see myself considering the flesh of a fellow human being as food, and the ultimatum \"eat today or die tomorrow\" comes up in all of them. Most people are probably with me on this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bill Schutt's newest book, \u003cem>Cannibalism: A Perfectly Natural History\u003c/em>, reveals that from a scientific perspective, there's a predictable calculus for when humans and animals go cannibal. And far more humans — and animals — have dipped into the world of cannibalism than you might have imagined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schutt, a vertebrate zoologist at LIU Post and the American Museum of Natural History, dives into cannibalism's history, its place in the kingdom Animalia and the source of its taboo. The book encompasses a range of stories far wider than the usual canon of gruesome reports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He makes no secret of his distaste for these over-sensationalized accounts, not because of the gore but because there's just so much more to cannibalism. Instead, he opts for a keenly scientific approach. \"I'm taking things that seem grotesque and misunderstood and horrify people and putting it through the eyes of zoologist,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Cannibalism A Perfectly Natural History by Bill Schutt\" width=\"396\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-115507\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85.jpg 396w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85-160x242.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85-240x364.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85-375x568.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 396px) 100vw, 396px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what does a zoologist see, exactly? He sees the perfect, natural sense of cannibalism, the evolutionary biology of eating one's own kind and, oddly, the wonder of it all. Macabre summaries of men eating men are present, too, but by far the most interesting section on human cannibalism in the book is Schutt's description of the long history of European aristocrats eating human parts as medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Upper-class types and even members of the British Royalty 'applied, drink or wore' concoctions prepared from human body parts, and they continued to do so until the end of the 18th century,\" Schutt writes in the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We caught up with Schutt to chat about the book. The interview below has been edited for length and clarity:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I hadn't heard of the medicinal cannibalism you described in Europe, starting with the Ancient Greek physician Galen of Pergamon and continuing to the 20th century. That was one thing that really surprised me.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, especially given the Western taboo around cannibalism, which has been around since the time of the Greeks, to find out that for hundreds of years, for many countries in Europe, pretty much every body part you can think of was used to cure something or the other. That was a complete shock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't even know where some of these [purported cures] came from.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>That blood was going to cure epilepsy or how human fat could cure skin diseases? The most interesting one to me was mummies, and I think that was a mistranslation. To the Arabs ... the word \u003cem>mumia\u003c/em> meant this stuff they used to bind wounds and prep mummies. In the translations, the Europeans thought they meant real mummies had medicinal values, so they started grinding [mummies] up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you get to seeing cannibalism as something that was really, very natural?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cannibalism as a behavior has various functions – from parental care to a reproductive strategy to foraging. If you look at insects, snails, crustaceans, fish, toads, salamanders, there's plenty of cannibalism. When you're talking about cob fish and the million eggs they lay, they're not looking at [their eggs] like juniors. They're like a handful of raisins. It's just food. My favorite is these legless amphibians, or caecilians. The mother provides her skin to the young hatchlings, and they peel her skin like a grape. That to me was wild and amazing, and I'd never heard of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you get to mammals, it's rarer because you're dealing with less offspring and [more]\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>parental care. The cannibalism you do see sometimes takes place because of environmental stresses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Seems like the decision to cannibalize is a pretty simple calculus. You do it when the need for food outweighs the risk of getting a disease. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yup. Though when you're starving, I don't know if you're thinking, 'This person might have a disease I could catch.' No, you're just at the end of your rope, and you're going to die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's natural behavior. Scientists have looked at starvation. At a certain point, one of the predictable behaviors that you'll see is cannibalism. It could start with dead bodies and then get to the extreme where you kill somebody and eat them. Then there's the case where some people will just not eat dead bodies and starve to death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's plenty of mammals and animals that don't practice the kind of parental care, or sexual cannibalism or that lifeboat strategy. But if you stress any creature out enough, I think the odds are that they'll eat their own kind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In the book, you describe getting invited over for dinner by one of your sources to eat her placenta. How was that? Was it good?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, it was really the prep that made it taste good. Granted, the [husband] was a chef and so he knew how to prepare it osso bucco style and used a really nice wine I had brought. It smelled great. It didn't taste bad. I wouldn't do it again. I don't have any regrets I did this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She said that after birth, she had all sorts of ups and downs, baby blues and stuff like that. Somebody turned her onto this and she tried and it she said she felt a lot better. She readily acknowledged that it was probably a placebo effect. Which is a real thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Would you eat another human – not a placenta? Not because of overcrowding, predation, competition or hunger. Just ... because?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No. If I was put into a life or death situation like the guys who got stranded in the Andes, or in a besieged city with no alternatives, then I can't say that I wouldn't consume human flesh. Would I do it again, just for kicks? Why would I? There's no need for that. Not unless it really came down to a real horror situation where there was nothing else to eat. I try not to think about that as a possibility. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>There are very few scenarios where I could see myself considering the flesh of a fellow human being as food, and the ultimatum \"eat today or die tomorrow\" comes up in all of them. Most people are probably with me on this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bill Schutt's newest book, \u003cem>Cannibalism: A Perfectly Natural History\u003c/em>, reveals that from a scientific perspective, there's a predictable calculus for when humans and animals go cannibal. And far more humans — and animals — have dipped into the world of cannibalism than you might have imagined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schutt, a vertebrate zoologist at LIU Post and the American Museum of Natural History, dives into cannibalism's history, its place in the kingdom Animalia and the source of its taboo. The book encompasses a range of stories far wider than the usual canon of gruesome reports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He makes no secret of his distaste for these over-sensationalized accounts, not because of the gore but because there's just so much more to cannibalism. Instead, he opts for a keenly scientific approach. \"I'm taking things that seem grotesque and misunderstood and horrify people and putting it through the eyes of zoologist,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Cannibalism A Perfectly Natural History by Bill Schutt\" width=\"396\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-115507\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85.jpg 396w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85-160x242.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85-240x364.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/9781616204624_custom-fa5424d08da663a5df8b34c1ca1bbf04044f2005-s700-c85-375x568.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 396px) 100vw, 396px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what does a zoologist see, exactly? He sees the perfect, natural sense of cannibalism, the evolutionary biology of eating one's own kind and, oddly, the wonder of it all. Macabre summaries of men eating men are present, too, but by far the most interesting section on human cannibalism in the book is Schutt's description of the long history of European aristocrats eating human parts as medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Upper-class types and even members of the British Royalty 'applied, drink or wore' concoctions prepared from human body parts, and they continued to do so until the end of the 18th century,\" Schutt writes in the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We caught up with Schutt to chat about the book. The interview below has been edited for length and clarity:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I hadn't heard of the medicinal cannibalism you described in Europe, starting with the Ancient Greek physician Galen of Pergamon and continuing to the 20th century. That was one thing that really surprised me.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, especially given the Western taboo around cannibalism, which has been around since the time of the Greeks, to find out that for hundreds of years, for many countries in Europe, pretty much every body part you can think of was used to cure something or the other. That was a complete shock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't even know where some of these [purported cures] came from.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>That blood was going to cure epilepsy or how human fat could cure skin diseases? The most interesting one to me was mummies, and I think that was a mistranslation. To the Arabs ... the word \u003cem>mumia\u003c/em> meant this stuff they used to bind wounds and prep mummies. In the translations, the Europeans thought they meant real mummies had medicinal values, so they started grinding [mummies] up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you get to seeing cannibalism as something that was really, very natural?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cannibalism as a behavior has various functions – from parental care to a reproductive strategy to foraging. If you look at insects, snails, crustaceans, fish, toads, salamanders, there's plenty of cannibalism. When you're talking about cob fish and the million eggs they lay, they're not looking at [their eggs] like juniors. They're like a handful of raisins. It's just food. My favorite is these legless amphibians, or caecilians. The mother provides her skin to the young hatchlings, and they peel her skin like a grape. That to me was wild and amazing, and I'd never heard of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you get to mammals, it's rarer because you're dealing with less offspring and [more]\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>parental care. The cannibalism you do see sometimes takes place because of environmental stresses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Seems like the decision to cannibalize is a pretty simple calculus. You do it when the need for food outweighs the risk of getting a disease. \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yup. Though when you're starving, I don't know if you're thinking, 'This person might have a disease I could catch.' No, you're just at the end of your rope, and you're going to die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's natural behavior. Scientists have looked at starvation. At a certain point, one of the predictable behaviors that you'll see is cannibalism. It could start with dead bodies and then get to the extreme where you kill somebody and eat them. Then there's the case where some people will just not eat dead bodies and starve to death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's plenty of mammals and animals that don't practice the kind of parental care, or sexual cannibalism or that lifeboat strategy. But if you stress any creature out enough, I think the odds are that they'll eat their own kind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In the book, you describe getting invited over for dinner by one of your sources to eat her placenta. How was that? Was it good?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yeah, it was really the prep that made it taste good. Granted, the [husband] was a chef and so he knew how to prepare it osso bucco style and used a really nice wine I had brought. It smelled great. It didn't taste bad. I wouldn't do it again. I don't have any regrets I did this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She said that after birth, she had all sorts of ups and downs, baby blues and stuff like that. Somebody turned her onto this and she tried and it she said she felt a lot better. She readily acknowledged that it was probably a placebo effect. Which is a real thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Would you eat another human – not a placenta? Not because of overcrowding, predation, competition or hunger. Just ... because?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No. If I was put into a life or death situation like the guys who got stranded in the Andes, or in a besieged city with no alternatives, then I can't say that I wouldn't consume human flesh. Would I do it again, just for kicks? Why would I? There's no need for that. Not unless it really came down to a real horror situation where there was nothing else to eat. I try not to think about that as a possibility. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Meet Freda DeKnight, A 'Hidden Figure' And Titan Of African-American Food",
"title": "Meet Freda DeKnight, A 'Hidden Figure' And Titan Of African-American Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is not an accident that there is a blackout on the Black man's contributions in America.\"\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nDr. Melvin Chapman (1928-2015), educator, Detroit, Mich.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Inside the dark theater, during a recent showing of \u003cem>Hidden Figures, \u003c/em>the pioneering food journalist and cookbook writer Freda DeKnight came to mind several times\u003cem>. \u003c/em>The Oscar-nominated film highlights the lives of three African-American women whose brilliant mathematical contributions to NASA and the Apollo program were left out of most magazines, news reports and books that covered the U.S. space program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a Baby Boomer, born the decade following their amazing accomplishments, I felt betrayed by national media when I first discovered that their brilliance had been concealed from me during a time when I needed it most. I grew up during a decade my parents described as the \"tough, but necessary path of integration\" in the midst of the Civil Rights movement, the Vietnam War, and the assassinations of John F. Kennedy and Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when my friend referred to the purposeful leaving out of African-American accomplishments as a \"separate and unequal\" approach to American history, she mentioned a plan. \"Our job isn't done until we pull every 'hidden figure' out of the American history closet,\" she said, adding that we should each dig deeper into our field of expertise. Which is why, as an African-American food journalist, I am concerned about culinary \"hidden figures.\" So I'll begin with this question: What do you know about Freda DeKnight?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in 1909, DeKnight spent much of her 54 years collecting, protecting and celebrating African-American culture and traditions in the years after World War II up to the civil rights movement. Yet her name has been all but forgotten – she doesn't even have that most basic of 21st century acknowledgements, a Wikipedia page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the first food editor for \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> magazine, DeKnight wrote a photo-driven monthly column that offered her home economist's tips, as well as regional recipes from the \"Negro community\" of home cooks, professional chefs, caterers, restaurateurs and celebrities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115403\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2994px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115403\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe\" alt=\"Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala.\" width=\"2994\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe 2994w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-160x107.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-800x534.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-768x513.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1020x681.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1180x787.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-960x641.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-240x160.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-375x250.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-520x347.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2994px) 100vw, 2994px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The column in \u003cem>Ebony'\u003c/em>s 1947 February issue, for instance, featured the singer and actress Lena Horne wearing a prim, Swiss-dotted, ruffled apron and preparing what DeKnight described as \"an exotic Oriental dish ... East Indian chicken.\" The dish was actually a taste of the broader African diaspora: It was from Trinidad, whose melting pot cuisine reflects a population that includes both descendants of African slaves and of Indians brought over as indentured servants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of the traditional recipe format, directions appeared as photo captions. \"Lena adds a dash more curry to suit her taste,\" read one caption, for a photo showing Horne taking a test sip from a spoon above a large pot. (It also included a plug for her film \u003cem>Till the Clouds Roll By\u003c/em>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was one of the many ways in which DeKnight presented a more nuanced and often glamorous image of African-American cooking and culture — not just to African-American readers, but to the broader world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was one of the first who brought international attention to African-American food. ... She was a trailblazer,\" says Jessica Harris – herself a respected trailblazer: an educator, culinary historian and author of a dozen books about African-American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> was read not just in the United States but also in Europe, Africa and the Caribbean — \"especially as the Civil Rights movement burgeoned and grew with international repute,\" says Harris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1150px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115404\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg\" alt=\"Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"1150\" height=\"647\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg 1150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1150px) 100vw, 1150px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's \"work with \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> brought our dishes to a larger world, and their dishes to us,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1948, DeKnight published her only cookbook,\u003cem> A Date With A Dish: A Cookbook of American Negro Recipes. \u003c/em>It is considered the first major cookbook written by an African-American for an African-American audience. It showcased a wide variety of recipes from \"Negro households,\" from Tamale Pie — which DeKnight described as \"fitting in these days when California and Mexico are in the spotlight\" – to filet mignon; from Shortnin' Bread to Key Lime Pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By documenting the breadth and depth of African-American culinary know-how, DeKnight challenged the stereotypes of what black cooking could be. Published seven years before Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery, Ala., bus, and 16 years before the Civil Rights Act of 1964, \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> was a powerful affirmation of black culture. As DeKnight wrote in the preface:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is a fallacy, long disproved, that Negro cooks, chefs, caterers and homemakers can adapt the\u003c/em>\u003cem>m\u003c/em>\u003cem>selves only to the standard Southern dishes, such as fried chicken, greens, corn pone and hot breads. Like other Americans living in various sections of the country they have naturally shown a desire to become versatile in the preparation of any dish, whether it is Spanish, Italian, French, Bal\u003c/em>\u003cem>i\u003c/em>\u003cem>nese or East Indian in origin.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The book became a national best-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up in the 1950s and '60s in a family of black physicians and educators. DeKnight knew both of my grandmothers socially. And both my Granny and Gran used to say that, compared to other black cookbooks, which they described as a folksy approach for white households employing black cooks, \u003cem>A Date With a Dish\u003c/em> was the first to \"represent the race with dignity ... deliciously.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's culinary ambitions were rooted in her upbringing. She was born in Kansas, a generation after a great wave of African-Americans known as the Exodusters left the South post-Civil War and migrated into Kansas. Her father, a Topeka, Kansas-based Pullman steward, died when she was 2. Her mother, a traveling nurse, moved DeKnight and her sister to Mitchell, S.D., to live with family. DeKnight grew up in the farm home of Paul and Mamie Scott, a couple who ran a successful catering company in town. DeKnight later credited the Scotts with setting her down her future career path.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115414\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"400\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-240x359.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-375x561.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The Scotts were the inspiration for my early cooking aspirations, which gave me every opportunity to absorb all of their fine recipes and rudiments of cooking, preparing food and catering,\" DeKnight wrote in The Collector's Corner, a section of the cookbook that showcased recipes curated from \"Negroes all over the country\" – from caterers in Philadelphia to home cooks in Arkansas and celebrity cooks in California. Each recipe was accompanied by a short biography of the cook. (The Scotts were among those featured.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Collector's Corner showcased recipes from many regions of the U.S., such as Mama Scott's Bechamel Sauce, Effie Jenkins' Mexican Shrimp, Fred Knight's Lobster Newburg and Charlie Saunder's Hot Water Cornbread. (Indeed, the cookbook includes no less than 15 different recipes for cornbread – a reflection, perhaps, of DeKnight's upbringing in a town where corn was a critical part of the local economy.) But, as DeKnight wrote, all the dishes included were stirred with \"Negro culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, only the 1948 edition of \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> included The Collector's Corner. The section was left out of the subsequent 1962, 1973 and 1978 editions of the cookbook, which was rebranded as \u003cem>The Ebony Cookbook\u003c/em>. It's the 1948 edition that remains the most significant, becoming an heirloom, passed down through generations of black families and described by today's black food writers and historians as among the most transformative recipe collections published in the 20th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was a pioneer in translating the \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> message of middle-class education, intelligence and dignity to the recipes she shared in her columns and cookbook,\" says Charlotte Lyons, who was an \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> food editor for 25 years, from 1985 to 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2664px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115406\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe\" alt=\"A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish.\" width=\"2664\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe 2664w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-160x120.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-800x600.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-768x576.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1180x885.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-960x720.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-240x180.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-375x281.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-520x390.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2664px) 100vw, 2664px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle PIerce)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight didn't limit her celebration of African-American culture to the culinary world. She rose to the position of home service director at Johnson Publishing, home of \u003cem>Ebony. \u003c/em>And in 1957, she staged the first Ebony Fashion Fair, \"stirring Negro culture\" into international haute couture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She appeared frequently on television, demonstrating recipes like violet-petal cake, and scouted the country for models for the pages of \u003cem>Ebony. (\u003c/em>Among her discoveries: a young Diahann Carroll.) In 1960, she underwent surgery for cancer. Still, she continued to travel with the fashion fair until 1962, when advancing illness left her increasingly weakened. She died in January 1963 at age 54.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's obituary appeared in the August 1963 issue of \u003cem>Negro Digest\u003c/em>. It was titled \"Tribute To A Lady Titan.\" Noting her role in revamping the image of African-Americans in the public sphere, the writer called DeKnight \"a familiar figure at professional food and fashion gatherings where Negroes had been seen before only as servants.\" She opened the door to career choices for future generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because she wasn't a hidden figure for me, I'm certain childhood memories of DeKnight's A \u003cem>Date With A Dish\u003c/em> column and cookbook – my own copy passed down from my grandmother\u003cstrong> --\u003c/strong> had much to do with me choosing a career in writing about the importance of saving family recipes, and my deep appreciation of Black American foodways in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Donna Battle Pierce is a journalist and food columnist based in Chicago. She is currently writing a book on Freda DeKnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "DeKnight was \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em>'s first food editor and author of a best-selling African-American cookbook in the '40s. Her recipes presented a vision of black America that was often invisible in mainstream media.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is not an accident that there is a blackout on the Black man's contributions in America.\"\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nDr. Melvin Chapman (1928-2015), educator, Detroit, Mich.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Inside the dark theater, during a recent showing of \u003cem>Hidden Figures, \u003c/em>the pioneering food journalist and cookbook writer Freda DeKnight came to mind several times\u003cem>. \u003c/em>The Oscar-nominated film highlights the lives of three African-American women whose brilliant mathematical contributions to NASA and the Apollo program were left out of most magazines, news reports and books that covered the U.S. space program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a Baby Boomer, born the decade following their amazing accomplishments, I felt betrayed by national media when I first discovered that their brilliance had been concealed from me during a time when I needed it most. I grew up during a decade my parents described as the \"tough, but necessary path of integration\" in the midst of the Civil Rights movement, the Vietnam War, and the assassinations of John F. Kennedy and Martin Luther King Jr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when my friend referred to the purposeful leaving out of African-American accomplishments as a \"separate and unequal\" approach to American history, she mentioned a plan. \"Our job isn't done until we pull every 'hidden figure' out of the American history closet,\" she said, adding that we should each dig deeper into our field of expertise. Which is why, as an African-American food journalist, I am concerned about culinary \"hidden figures.\" So I'll begin with this question: What do you know about Freda DeKnight?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Born in 1909, DeKnight spent much of her 54 years collecting, protecting and celebrating African-American culture and traditions in the years after World War II up to the civil rights movement. Yet her name has been all but forgotten – she doesn't even have that most basic of 21st century acknowledgements, a Wikipedia page.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the first food editor for \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> magazine, DeKnight wrote a photo-driven monthly column that offered her home economist's tips, as well as regional recipes from the \"Negro community\" of home cooks, professional chefs, caterers, restaurateurs and celebrities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115403\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2994px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115403\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe\" alt=\"Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala.\" width=\"2994\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1.jpe 2994w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-160x107.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-800x534.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-768x513.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1020x681.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-1180x787.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-960x641.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-240x160.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-375x250.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-38-41-pm_custom-9b437a2a7e447c58b97f5838d5c8dea7205251e1-520x347.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2994px) 100vw, 2994px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freda DeKnight's Banana Orange Caramel Cake, from her 1948 cookbook Date With A Dish. Banana-based dishes have a long history in the South. Ships ferrying the fruit from the Caribbean to be distributed across America would drop off ripe ones at Gulf Coast ports like Mobile, Ala. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The column in \u003cem>Ebony'\u003c/em>s 1947 February issue, for instance, featured the singer and actress Lena Horne wearing a prim, Swiss-dotted, ruffled apron and preparing what DeKnight described as \"an exotic Oriental dish ... East Indian chicken.\" The dish was actually a taste of the broader African diaspora: It was from Trinidad, whose melting pot cuisine reflects a population that includes both descendants of African slaves and of Indians brought over as indentured servants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead of the traditional recipe format, directions appeared as photo captions. \"Lena adds a dash more curry to suit her taste,\" read one caption, for a photo showing Horne taking a test sip from a spoon above a large pot. (It also included a plug for her film \u003cem>Till the Clouds Roll By\u003c/em>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was one of the many ways in which DeKnight presented a more nuanced and often glamorous image of African-American cooking and culture — not just to African-American readers, but to the broader world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was one of the first who brought international attention to African-American food. ... She was a trailblazer,\" says Jessica Harris – herself a respected trailblazer: an educator, culinary historian and author of a dozen books about African-American culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> was read not just in the United States but also in Europe, Africa and the Caribbean — \"especially as the Civil Rights movement burgeoned and grew with international repute,\" says Harris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1150px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115404\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg\" alt=\"Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"1150\" height=\"647\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3.jpg 1150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-960x540.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-375x211.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/twobooksyellowblue_wide-9f47d671be6123d9c1bdd2389d109ecc4b1364b3-520x293.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1150px) 100vw, 1150px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Covers from two editions of Freda DeKnight's cookbook. The first edition was called A Date With A Dish. Later updates were rebranded as The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's \"work with \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> brought our dishes to a larger world, and their dishes to us,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1948, DeKnight published her only cookbook,\u003cem> A Date With A Dish: A Cookbook of American Negro Recipes. \u003c/em>It is considered the first major cookbook written by an African-American for an African-American audience. It showcased a wide variety of recipes from \"Negro households,\" from Tamale Pie — which DeKnight described as \"fitting in these days when California and Mexico are in the spotlight\" – to filet mignon; from Shortnin' Bread to Key Lime Pie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By documenting the breadth and depth of African-American culinary know-how, DeKnight challenged the stereotypes of what black cooking could be. Published seven years before Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat on a Montgomery, Ala., bus, and 16 years before the Civil Rights Act of 1964, \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> was a powerful affirmation of black culture. As DeKnight wrote in the preface:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>\"It is a fallacy, long disproved, that Negro cooks, chefs, caterers and homemakers can adapt the\u003c/em>\u003cem>m\u003c/em>\u003cem>selves only to the standard Southern dishes, such as fried chicken, greens, corn pone and hot breads. Like other Americans living in various sections of the country they have naturally shown a desire to become versatile in the preparation of any dish, whether it is Spanish, Italian, French, Bal\u003c/em>\u003cem>i\u003c/em>\u003cem>nese or East Indian in origin.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The book became a national best-seller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I grew up in the 1950s and '60s in a family of black physicians and educators. DeKnight knew both of my grandmothers socially. And both my Granny and Gran used to say that, compared to other black cookbooks, which they described as a folksy approach for white households employing black cooks, \u003cem>A Date With a Dish\u003c/em> was the first to \"represent the race with dignity ... deliciously.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's culinary ambitions were rooted in her upbringing. She was born in Kansas, a generation after a great wave of African-Americans known as the Exodusters left the South post-Civil War and migrated into Kansas. Her father, a Topeka, Kansas-based Pullman steward, died when she was 2. Her mother, a traveling nurse, moved DeKnight and her sister to Mitchell, S.D., to live with family. DeKnight grew up in the farm home of Paul and Mamie Scott, a couple who ran a successful catering company in town. DeKnight later credited the Scotts with setting her down her future career path.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115414\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Ebony Cookbook.\" width=\"400\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-240x359.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-375x561.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/img_4711_1-copy_custom-d99f51b6cc70c12e9bc354e723a7f2d00eb95fba-s700-c85-520x779.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Ebony Cookbook. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle Pierce for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The Scotts were the inspiration for my early cooking aspirations, which gave me every opportunity to absorb all of their fine recipes and rudiments of cooking, preparing food and catering,\" DeKnight wrote in The Collector's Corner, a section of the cookbook that showcased recipes curated from \"Negroes all over the country\" – from caterers in Philadelphia to home cooks in Arkansas and celebrity cooks in California. Each recipe was accompanied by a short biography of the cook. (The Scotts were among those featured.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Collector's Corner showcased recipes from many regions of the U.S., such as Mama Scott's Bechamel Sauce, Effie Jenkins' Mexican Shrimp, Fred Knight's Lobster Newburg and Charlie Saunder's Hot Water Cornbread. (Indeed, the cookbook includes no less than 15 different recipes for cornbread – a reflection, perhaps, of DeKnight's upbringing in a town where corn was a critical part of the local economy.) But, as DeKnight wrote, all the dishes included were stirred with \"Negro culture.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, only the 1948 edition of \u003cem>A Date With A Dish\u003c/em> included The Collector's Corner. The section was left out of the subsequent 1962, 1973 and 1978 editions of the cookbook, which was rebranded as \u003cem>The Ebony Cookbook\u003c/em>. It's the 1948 edition that remains the most significant, becoming an heirloom, passed down through generations of black families and described by today's black food writers and historians as among the most transformative recipe collections published in the 20th century.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Freda DeKnight was a pioneer in translating the \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> message of middle-class education, intelligence and dignity to the recipes she shared in her columns and cookbook,\" says Charlotte Lyons, who was an \u003cem>Ebony\u003c/em> food editor for 25 years, from 1985 to 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2664px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-115406\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe\" alt=\"A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish.\" width=\"2664\" height=\"1998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60.jpe 2664w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-160x120.jpe 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-800x600.jpe 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-768x576.jpe 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1020x765.jpe 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-1180x885.jpe 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-960x720.jpe 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-240x180.jpe 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-375x281.jpe 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/file-feb-10-3-35-17-pm-32cfe3859541f33401eca116f70dec54fa736f60-520x390.jpe 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2664px) 100vw, 2664px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A recipe for chocolate chip cookies from the 1948 edition of A Date with A Dish. \u003ccite>(Donna Battle PIerce)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>DeKnight didn't limit her celebration of African-American culture to the culinary world. She rose to the position of home service director at Johnson Publishing, home of \u003cem>Ebony. \u003c/em>And in 1957, she staged the first Ebony Fashion Fair, \"stirring Negro culture\" into international haute couture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She appeared frequently on television, demonstrating recipes like violet-petal cake, and scouted the country for models for the pages of \u003cem>Ebony. (\u003c/em>Among her discoveries: a young Diahann Carroll.) In 1960, she underwent surgery for cancer. Still, she continued to travel with the fashion fair until 1962, when advancing illness left her increasingly weakened. She died in January 1963 at age 54.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DeKnight's obituary appeared in the August 1963 issue of \u003cem>Negro Digest\u003c/em>. It was titled \"Tribute To A Lady Titan.\" Noting her role in revamping the image of African-Americans in the public sphere, the writer called DeKnight \"a familiar figure at professional food and fashion gatherings where Negroes had been seen before only as servants.\" She opened the door to career choices for future generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because she wasn't a hidden figure for me, I'm certain childhood memories of DeKnight's A \u003cem>Date With A Dish\u003c/em> column and cookbook – my own copy passed down from my grandmother\u003cstrong> --\u003c/strong> had much to do with me choosing a career in writing about the importance of saving family recipes, and my deep appreciation of Black American foodways in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Donna Battle Pierce is a journalist and food columnist based in Chicago. She is currently writing a book on Freda DeKnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
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"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
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"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
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},
"science-friday": {
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