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"title": "A New Filipino American Play Asks: Is There Such a Thing as Too Much Lechon?",
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"content": "\u003cp>Oliver Saria knows about the glory of a lechon—the crunch and crackle when you cut into the pig’s fat-rendered skin, the juicy succulence of its slow-roasted flesh. The San Francisco-based playwright grew up eating enormous portions of whole pig lechon at big Filipino family gatherings, and he says the dish came to symbolize all of the joy and abundance of Filipino food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Nothing says fiesta like lechon,” says Saria, the managing director at San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.bindlestiffstudio.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bindlestiff Studio\u003c/a>, which touts itself as the only black box theater in the United States dedicated to showcasing Filipino American performing arts. “There was not a full celebration if you didn’t have a lechon.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the last few years caused Saria to rethink his relationship to Filipino food, especially as several members of the local Filipino American artistic community died young due to complications from diabetes and heart disease. Then the pandemic happened, and people who were laid off from their jobs were left with no safety net. Saria had to drive one Bindlestiff staff member to the emergency room because he had lost his health insurance and was rationing his diabetes medication. “He likely could have died that night,” Saria recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914755\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914755\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Playwright Oliver Saria posing for a headshot wearing a red and black checkered shirt.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Playwright Oliver Saria wrote ‘Inay Dalisay’ as a way for Filipino Americans to start a conversation about their foodways. \u003ccite>(Paciano Triunfo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Saria looked at data showing that Filipino Americans have some of the highest rates of diabetes, hypertension and heart disease. “Growing up as a Filipino American, I realized a lot of that was rooted in the food we ate,” he says. “It’s a lot of meat and rice.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there such a thing, then, as \u003ci>too much\u003c/i> lechon? Saria’s new play, \u003ca href=\"https://www.bindlestiffstudio.org/inay-dalisay\" target=\"_blanl\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003ci>Inay Dalisay’s World Famous Lechon\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, takes on that question. Directed by Aureen Almario, the play will make its world debut this week at Bindlestiff, in the heart of the SoMa neighborhood’s Filipino cultural district, with a two-weekend run June 16–25. It’s the theater’s first full-length stage production since before the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The play is set in the Labis family’s “dirty kitchen,” a fully decked out backyard kitchen where the characters gather together for a series of big family meals—and where they dive into some of these broader questions about health, diet and traditional Filipino foodways. It’s all meant to be handled with a light touch. (\u003ci>Inay Dalisay\u003c/i> is being marketed as a “raucous comedy,” after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The play isn’t about denigrating Filipino food or only talking about how unhealthy it is,” Saria stresses. “But it is trying to bring up the topic in the community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inay Dalisay is the mother of one of the characters in the play, and her legendary lechon recipe serves as one of the play’s recurring motifs. But a vegan, fake-meat lechon also makes an appearance—a nod, in part, to the large number of Filipino vegans that Bindlestiff itself has on staff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, vegan Filipino chefs like the Bay Area’s own \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/26/21531184/nicks-on-mission-nicks-on-grand-closed-vegan-filipino-chef-reina-montenegro\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Reina Montenegro\u003c/a>, who was a consultant on the play, have faced pushback from Filipino Americans who question the authenticity of their food. It’s a complicated issue, Saria acknowledges—one that isn’t as simple as saying that Filipinos just need to stop eating meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can’t really replace the taste of lechon,” he says. “I say it in the play: It’s like the purest expression of pork. Vegan food cannot be an ersatz substitute if the exact flavor is what you’re looking for.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13913828,arts_13912001']For Saria, part of the answer lies in really embracing the healthy dishes and fresh ingredients that already exist in Filipino cuisine. “Vegetables are not often thought of as celebratory food. The play makes a case for celebrating those often-ignored ingredients,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What \u003ci>Inay Dalisay’s World Famous Lechon\u003c/i> attempts to do, then, is straddle a tricky line—to ask audience members to reexamine their own foodways, but to do it in a culturally appropriate way. And it’s not something that only applies to Filipino Americans. Many Black, Latinx and Indigenous communities are also dealing with similar health crises, Saria points out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“How do we adopt new customs without losing our identity?” Saria says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>‘Inay Dalisay’s World Famous Lechon’ is playing at Bindlestiff Studio on Thursdays and Saturdays at 8pm, June 16–25, with an additional 4pm matinee on Saturday, June 18. Tickets are $30 ($20 for students and seniors). \u003ca href=\"https://www.bindlestiffstudio.org/inay-dalisay\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Details here\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Oliver Saria knows about the glory of a lechon—the crunch and crackle when you cut into the pig’s fat-rendered skin, the juicy succulence of its slow-roasted flesh. The San Francisco-based playwright grew up eating enormous portions of whole pig lechon at big Filipino family gatherings, and he says the dish came to symbolize all of the joy and abundance of Filipino food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Nothing says fiesta like lechon,” says Saria, the managing director at San Francisco’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.bindlestiffstudio.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bindlestiff Studio\u003c/a>, which touts itself as the only black box theater in the United States dedicated to showcasing Filipino American performing arts. “There was not a full celebration if you didn’t have a lechon.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the last few years caused Saria to rethink his relationship to Filipino food, especially as several members of the local Filipino American artistic community died young due to complications from diabetes and heart disease. Then the pandemic happened, and people who were laid off from their jobs were left with no safety net. Saria had to drive one Bindlestiff staff member to the emergency room because he had lost his health insurance and was rationing his diabetes medication. “He likely could have died that night,” Saria recalls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914755\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914755\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Playwright Oliver Saria posing for a headshot wearing a red and black checkered shirt.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1707\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/1.Bindlestiff_Inay-Dalisay_Playwright-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Playwright Oliver Saria wrote ‘Inay Dalisay’ as a way for Filipino Americans to start a conversation about their foodways. \u003ccite>(Paciano Triunfo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Saria looked at data showing that Filipino Americans have some of the highest rates of diabetes, hypertension and heart disease. “Growing up as a Filipino American, I realized a lot of that was rooted in the food we ate,” he says. “It’s a lot of meat and rice.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is there such a thing, then, as \u003ci>too much\u003c/i> lechon? Saria’s new play, \u003ca href=\"https://www.bindlestiffstudio.org/inay-dalisay\" target=\"_blanl\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003ci>Inay Dalisay’s World Famous Lechon\u003c/i>\u003c/a>, takes on that question. Directed by Aureen Almario, the play will make its world debut this week at Bindlestiff, in the heart of the SoMa neighborhood’s Filipino cultural district, with a two-weekend run June 16–25. It’s the theater’s first full-length stage production since before the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The play is set in the Labis family’s “dirty kitchen,” a fully decked out backyard kitchen where the characters gather together for a series of big family meals—and where they dive into some of these broader questions about health, diet and traditional Filipino foodways. It’s all meant to be handled with a light touch. (\u003ci>Inay Dalisay\u003c/i> is being marketed as a “raucous comedy,” after all.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The play isn’t about denigrating Filipino food or only talking about how unhealthy it is,” Saria stresses. “But it is trying to bring up the topic in the community.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inay Dalisay is the mother of one of the characters in the play, and her legendary lechon recipe serves as one of the play’s recurring motifs. But a vegan, fake-meat lechon also makes an appearance—a nod, in part, to the large number of Filipino vegans that Bindlestiff itself has on staff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, vegan Filipino chefs like the Bay Area’s own \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/10/26/21531184/nicks-on-mission-nicks-on-grand-closed-vegan-filipino-chef-reina-montenegro\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Reina Montenegro\u003c/a>, who was a consultant on the play, have faced pushback from Filipino Americans who question the authenticity of their food. It’s a complicated issue, Saria acknowledges—one that isn’t as simple as saying that Filipinos just need to stop eating meat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can’t really replace the taste of lechon,” he says. “I say it in the play: It’s like the purest expression of pork. Vegan food cannot be an ersatz substitute if the exact flavor is what you’re looking for.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>For Saria, part of the answer lies in really embracing the healthy dishes and fresh ingredients that already exist in Filipino cuisine. “Vegetables are not often thought of as celebratory food. The play makes a case for celebrating those often-ignored ingredients,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What \u003ci>Inay Dalisay’s World Famous Lechon\u003c/i> attempts to do, then, is straddle a tricky line—to ask audience members to reexamine their own foodways, but to do it in a culturally appropriate way. And it’s not something that only applies to Filipino Americans. Many Black, Latinx and Indigenous communities are also dealing with similar health crises, Saria points out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“How do we adopt new customs without losing our identity?” Saria says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>‘Inay Dalisay’s World Famous Lechon’ is playing at Bindlestiff Studio on Thursdays and Saturdays at 8pm, June 16–25, with an additional 4pm matinee on Saturday, June 18. Tickets are $30 ($20 for students and seniors). \u003ca href=\"https://www.bindlestiffstudio.org/inay-dalisay\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Details here\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "hal-the-hot-dog-guy-oakland-coliseum-hella-hungry",
"title": "Why This Hot Dog Vendor Is the Oakland Coliseum’s Biggest Hit",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a weekly conversation with Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary culture through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the Oakland Athletics’ losing record and a ruthless cycle of bashing the team’s paltry stadium this season in \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/05/15/sports/baseball/oakland-athletics-attendance.html\">national\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/06/01/cat-feces-cobwebs-moths-oakland-as-complain-about-coliseum-conditions/\">local media outlets \u003c/a>(sorry, Jose Canseco and Mark McGwire, but you’ve been out-bashed), there’s at least one statistic where the A’s remain undefeated: hot dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because the A’s, who can’t seem to win back their fans, are currently being sustained by Hal Gordon, an all-star hot dog vendor with an entire lineup of nicknames. He’s Hal the Pal, Hal the Hot Dog Guy and Hal the Hot Dog Economist—\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AsHotDog/status/1519352157308293121\">he even has a set of trading cards\u003c/a> and sponsored pins he signs and gives out to fans. It’s no stretch to say this red-and-white-stripe uniformed food purveyor is more popular than the current players on the field. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AsHotDog/status/1529963148492476416\">Hal even brings his own extra condiments\u003c/a> like jalapeño mustard and capers to serve fans, since they aren’t provided otherwise, making him a beloved fixture with A’s diehards and first-timers alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101889374/for-oakland-as-fans-its-not-been-a-field-of-dreams\">Hal recently appeared with me as a guest on \u003ci>Forum\u003c/i>, hosted by KQED’s Alexis Madrigal\u003c/a>, to speak with baseball experts and fans about the team’s dire situation. (He is a PhD student at UC Berkeley studying economics, after all). But besides the drama surrounding this team, there’s a playfulness to Hal and what he delivers—and it’s served from a 53-pound steamer he lugs around for approximately 8,340 steps each game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I caught up with him while the Boston Red Sox were in town to discuss his favorite style of dogs and his love for Bay Area food. Here’s what baseball’s celebrity food slinger had to say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: What are your early memories of hot dogs at baseball games?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m from Chicago, so I remember being a kid at Wrigley Field. There are weird rules around hot dogs [in Chicago]. Kids are allowed to have ketchup on the hot dog. But once you turn 13, you’re supposed to get rid of the ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914588\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13914588 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"woman holds a hot dog with jalapenos, onions, and ketchup at a baseball game\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Oakland A’s fan shows off her hot dog with speciality toppings like capers, mayonnaise and more \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What differentiates your hot dogs from the concession stands?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hot dog itself starts the same. But when it’s delivered in the steamer, the hot dogs are plumper than when you cook them. Steaming allows water to get into the hot dog and puffs it up as opposed to grilling it. When most people vend hot dogs, they are already pre-rolled. The hot dog is in a bun and rolled up in foil. Those lose their temperature, and the buns also get soggy. Besides that, the differences are mostly the condiments I offer. And bringing the service right to your seat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hear Hal the Hot Dog Guy in action:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003caudio controls=\"controls\">\u003c/audio>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you list off each condiment and topping you offer? How many varieties of hot dogs can you prepare? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve got ketchup, mustard, relish, mayo, Sriracha, onions, sauerkraut, jalapeños [and] capers. Of the mustards, I have four right now. Regular yellow, golden brown, and on the super secret menu I have two more—one is a hot jalapeño mustard, and the other is called Coney Island mustard, which is honey mustard with chunks of onions and tomatoes. That last one is shipped from Oregon. Oh, and I have sweet relish and dill relish. That’s 13 different condiments. That’s about [\u003cem>takes a long pause, mumbles calculations\u003c/em>] 8,192 ways to serve a hot dog. Right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You bring your own condiments to the games. How did that start?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I started out, I used whatever the Coliseum had. We had yellow and brown mustard, ketchup, sweet relish, sauerkraut, jalapeño and onions. I added some mustards for variety, and one day someone asked for mayo, so I brought that. It grew from there. Last year when COVID hit, the Coliseum wasn’t able to provide any condiments, so I wanted to make sure the fans got what they need. The vending company reimburses me, so it’s not exactly on my dime. But I go to the restaurant supply stores myself and bring big cases of condiments myself. At the beginning of the last homestand I ran out of some ingredients, so I grabbed my backpacking backpack and filled it with the giant gallon bottles of sauerkraut and took BART.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are some of the less popular hot dog styles you’ve dished out?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rarest thing is when someone only orders toppings and no sauce. Someone once asked me to pile on onions only, all my onions. Another guy only orders the spicy items: Sriracha, jalapeños, jalapeño mustard, with extra of each. One fan brings her own gluten-free buns because she’s gluten intolerant. She’ll pull out a sandwich baggie with a bun and hand it to me. Some of the hot dog pros will ask me to put the condiments first and the dog on top. There’s less spillage. I know when someone knows their way around a hot dog when they ask for that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/AsHotDog/status/1529963148492476416\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’re famously vegetarian. Why don’t you serve veggie dogs?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m hoping to get veggie dogs soon. The problem is the steamer; it’s a pan with a small flame beneath it and about an inch of water. The steam water gets meaty, full of dissolved hot dog fat. If you put a veggie dog in the same steamer, it would get covered in animal fat. Recently, I’ve been working with a welder to try and design a pan that has a water tight divider. Normally, I can fit 40 hot dogs in my steamer. In this pan we’re designing, I could fit maybe 35 regulars and 5 veggies, with a separate compartment. I’m hoping that I’ll have that pan sometime in the next month. In the Bay Area, I bet I could sell a couple a game. I’d like to offer that because I myself am vegetarian, but also, the whole idea of my existence as the hot dog guy is that this is a fan service. It’s a fan-centered experience. When they ask for something, it becomes my goal to provide it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where do you go to get the best veggie dogs in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://topdoghotdogs.com/\">Top Dog\u003c/a> in Berkeley. Instead of a bun, it’s served on a French loaf. That’s such a great touch. They also have at least 10 other types of sausages and dogs and a huge condiment bar. As someone who grew up in Chicago with the dogs there and all the condiments on a Chicago dog, it really taught me that hot dogs aren’t just good, but what’s most fun about the food is that it becomes a canvas for whatever flavors you want. I also want to say: I don’t eat bacon-wrapped Mission dogs because of the meat, but whether you get them near the BART or in San Francisco, it’s great to see. Shout out to all those vendors who work with those flat tops making fresh bacon dogs. It’s a good hustle. It just ticks me off when I see stories about the cops harassing those guys. That’s part of the Bay Area culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Besides hot dogs, what do you most appreciate from the Bay Area’s food spectrum?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='arts_13914042,arts_13913985']The burrito is the best food here. Growing up in Chicago, getting a burrito for me meant going to Taco Bell. And I can still remember the first time they opened a Chipotle in my suburb. I haven’t been to a Chipotle since moving here. Fifty years ago, if you were to say what’s the iconic American food, you’d probably say the hot dog or maybe the cheeseburger. But now, honestly, I think there’s an argument to be made that a burrito from the Mission is a more iconic American food. Vallarta in the Mission has a killer eggplant or nopal veggie burrito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What do you enjoy about serving hot dogs at baseball games?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Going to sporting events is so evocative of all our childhoods. It’s about remembering what we remembered as kids and getting excited about it. A while back there were only two vendors: hot dogs and beer. The steamer I use, it’s definitely older than me. I actually tried looking it up before, and it’s made somewhere in New Jersey; I can’t find any evidence of that company even existing anymore. That makes it fun. It used to be how hot dogs were sold decades ago in this Coliseum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I almost forgot to ask: ketchup or mustard only?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Listen, like any self-respecting Chicagoan, I don’t put ketchup on my hot dog. But like any good server, there’s no judgment from me. Like I said, what’s nice about ordering a hot dog is that you’re always in the driver’s seat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/AsHotDog/status/1525329866698027008\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Find Hal yelling and chanting his way around Ring Central Coliseum on 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland. Check \u003ca href=\"https://www.mlb.com/athletics/schedule/2022-06\">the A’s schedule\u003c/a> for home games.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a weekly conversation with Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary culture through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the Oakland Athletics’ losing record and a ruthless cycle of bashing the team’s paltry stadium this season in \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2022/05/15/sports/baseball/oakland-athletics-attendance.html\">national\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://oaklandside.org/2022/06/01/cat-feces-cobwebs-moths-oakland-as-complain-about-coliseum-conditions/\">local media outlets \u003c/a>(sorry, Jose Canseco and Mark McGwire, but you’ve been out-bashed), there’s at least one statistic where the A’s remain undefeated: hot dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because the A’s, who can’t seem to win back their fans, are currently being sustained by Hal Gordon, an all-star hot dog vendor with an entire lineup of nicknames. He’s Hal the Pal, Hal the Hot Dog Guy and Hal the Hot Dog Economist—\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AsHotDog/status/1519352157308293121\">he even has a set of trading cards\u003c/a> and sponsored pins he signs and gives out to fans. It’s no stretch to say this red-and-white-stripe uniformed food purveyor is more popular than the current players on the field. \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AsHotDog/status/1529963148492476416\">Hal even brings his own extra condiments\u003c/a> like jalapeño mustard and capers to serve fans, since they aren’t provided otherwise, making him a beloved fixture with A’s diehards and first-timers alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101889374/for-oakland-as-fans-its-not-been-a-field-of-dreams\">Hal recently appeared with me as a guest on \u003ci>Forum\u003c/i>, hosted by KQED’s Alexis Madrigal\u003c/a>, to speak with baseball experts and fans about the team’s dire situation. (He is a PhD student at UC Berkeley studying economics, after all). But besides the drama surrounding this team, there’s a playfulness to Hal and what he delivers—and it’s served from a 53-pound steamer he lugs around for approximately 8,340 steps each game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I caught up with him while the Boston Red Sox were in town to discuss his favorite style of dogs and his love for Bay Area food. Here’s what baseball’s celebrity food slinger had to say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: What are your early memories of hot dogs at baseball games?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m from Chicago, so I remember being a kid at Wrigley Field. There are weird rules around hot dogs [in Chicago]. Kids are allowed to have ketchup on the hot dog. But once you turn 13, you’re supposed to get rid of the ketchup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914588\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13914588 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"woman holds a hot dog with jalapenos, onions, and ketchup at a baseball game\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/hotdoghal_dog-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Oakland A’s fan shows off her hot dog with speciality toppings like capers, mayonnaise and more \u003ccite>(Briana Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What differentiates your hot dogs from the concession stands?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hot dog itself starts the same. But when it’s delivered in the steamer, the hot dogs are plumper than when you cook them. Steaming allows water to get into the hot dog and puffs it up as opposed to grilling it. When most people vend hot dogs, they are already pre-rolled. The hot dog is in a bun and rolled up in foil. Those lose their temperature, and the buns also get soggy. Besides that, the differences are mostly the condiments I offer. And bringing the service right to your seat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Hear Hal the Hot Dog Guy in action:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003caudio controls=\"controls\">\u003c/audio>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Can you list off each condiment and topping you offer? How many varieties of hot dogs can you prepare? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve got ketchup, mustard, relish, mayo, Sriracha, onions, sauerkraut, jalapeños [and] capers. Of the mustards, I have four right now. Regular yellow, golden brown, and on the super secret menu I have two more—one is a hot jalapeño mustard, and the other is called Coney Island mustard, which is honey mustard with chunks of onions and tomatoes. That last one is shipped from Oregon. Oh, and I have sweet relish and dill relish. That’s 13 different condiments. That’s about [\u003cem>takes a long pause, mumbles calculations\u003c/em>] 8,192 ways to serve a hot dog. Right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You bring your own condiments to the games. How did that start?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I started out, I used whatever the Coliseum had. We had yellow and brown mustard, ketchup, sweet relish, sauerkraut, jalapeño and onions. I added some mustards for variety, and one day someone asked for mayo, so I brought that. It grew from there. Last year when COVID hit, the Coliseum wasn’t able to provide any condiments, so I wanted to make sure the fans got what they need. The vending company reimburses me, so it’s not exactly on my dime. But I go to the restaurant supply stores myself and bring big cases of condiments myself. At the beginning of the last homestand I ran out of some ingredients, so I grabbed my backpacking backpack and filled it with the giant gallon bottles of sauerkraut and took BART.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are some of the less popular hot dog styles you’ve dished out?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rarest thing is when someone only orders toppings and no sauce. Someone once asked me to pile on onions only, all my onions. Another guy only orders the spicy items: Sriracha, jalapeños, jalapeño mustard, with extra of each. One fan brings her own gluten-free buns because she’s gluten intolerant. She’ll pull out a sandwich baggie with a bun and hand it to me. Some of the hot dog pros will ask me to put the condiments first and the dog on top. There’s less spillage. I know when someone knows their way around a hot dog when they ask for that.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You’re famously vegetarian. Why don’t you serve veggie dogs?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m hoping to get veggie dogs soon. The problem is the steamer; it’s a pan with a small flame beneath it and about an inch of water. The steam water gets meaty, full of dissolved hot dog fat. If you put a veggie dog in the same steamer, it would get covered in animal fat. Recently, I’ve been working with a welder to try and design a pan that has a water tight divider. Normally, I can fit 40 hot dogs in my steamer. In this pan we’re designing, I could fit maybe 35 regulars and 5 veggies, with a separate compartment. I’m hoping that I’ll have that pan sometime in the next month. In the Bay Area, I bet I could sell a couple a game. I’d like to offer that because I myself am vegetarian, but also, the whole idea of my existence as the hot dog guy is that this is a fan service. It’s a fan-centered experience. When they ask for something, it becomes my goal to provide it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where do you go to get the best veggie dogs in the Bay Area?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://topdoghotdogs.com/\">Top Dog\u003c/a> in Berkeley. Instead of a bun, it’s served on a French loaf. That’s such a great touch. They also have at least 10 other types of sausages and dogs and a huge condiment bar. As someone who grew up in Chicago with the dogs there and all the condiments on a Chicago dog, it really taught me that hot dogs aren’t just good, but what’s most fun about the food is that it becomes a canvas for whatever flavors you want. I also want to say: I don’t eat bacon-wrapped Mission dogs because of the meat, but whether you get them near the BART or in San Francisco, it’s great to see. Shout out to all those vendors who work with those flat tops making fresh bacon dogs. It’s a good hustle. It just ticks me off when I see stories about the cops harassing those guys. That’s part of the Bay Area culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Besides hot dogs, what do you most appreciate from the Bay Area’s food spectrum?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The burrito is the best food here. Growing up in Chicago, getting a burrito for me meant going to Taco Bell. And I can still remember the first time they opened a Chipotle in my suburb. I haven’t been to a Chipotle since moving here. Fifty years ago, if you were to say what’s the iconic American food, you’d probably say the hot dog or maybe the cheeseburger. But now, honestly, I think there’s an argument to be made that a burrito from the Mission is a more iconic American food. Vallarta in the Mission has a killer eggplant or nopal veggie burrito.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What do you enjoy about serving hot dogs at baseball games?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Going to sporting events is so evocative of all our childhoods. It’s about remembering what we remembered as kids and getting excited about it. A while back there were only two vendors: hot dogs and beer. The steamer I use, it’s definitely older than me. I actually tried looking it up before, and it’s made somewhere in New Jersey; I can’t find any evidence of that company even existing anymore. That makes it fun. It used to be how hot dogs were sold decades ago in this Coliseum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>I almost forgot to ask: ketchup or mustard only?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Listen, like any self-respecting Chicagoan, I don’t put ketchup on my hot dog. But like any good server, there’s no judgment from me. Like I said, what’s nice about ordering a hot dog is that you’re always in the driver’s seat.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Find Hal yelling and chanting his way around Ring Central Coliseum on 7000 Coliseum Way, Oakland. Check \u003ca href=\"https://www.mlb.com/athletics/schedule/2022-06\">the A’s schedule\u003c/a> for home games.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Richmond’s Hottest Taqueria Is Turning Mangonadas Into Beer",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though often operating under the radar—inside discreet flea markets, word-of-mouth backyards and literal garages—Richmond has quietly risen into the top tier of Bay Area food and beverage destinations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whether it’s a lager at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eastbrotherbeer/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">East Brother Beer Co.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13913355/guatemalan-rice-tamales-antojitos-guatemaltecos-richmond\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Guatemalan rice tamal at Antojitos Guatemaltecos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, or \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13913985/hot-cheeto-burrito-taqueria-el-mezcal-richard-montanez-san-pablo\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Hot Cheetos burrito at Taqueria El Mezcal\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the area’s rich culinary scene—influenced by the diverse presence of Black, immigrant and working-class families—is worth a trip. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The latest offering that speaks to that creativity? A mangonada-inspired beer created by \u003ca href=\"http://www.armisticebrewing.com/\">Armistice Brewing\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">El Garage\u003c/a>—two heavyweights in the Richmond food and beverage game.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Very few residents exemplify the area’s success more than El Garage co-founder Viviana Montano. A born-and-raised Rich City business owner, Montano and her family opened their wildly popular taqueria in 2019, when it operated as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">pop-up inside the family’s garage\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Since then, El Garage has \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/9/21319032/quesabirria-tacos-el-garage-richmond\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">expanded into a premier downtown location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and garnered attention from every taco lover in the region, including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101887986/exploring-richmonds-taco-corridor-and-more-with-luke-tsai\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">KQED’s own food editor, Luke Tsai, who spoke with Montano about her favorite hometown spots to grub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914417\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914417\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Two tacos topped with beef birria and melted cheese, with sliced cucumbers and radishes on the side.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Garage’s signature quesabirria is revered by East Bay taco lovers. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But before all that taco glory, Montano started out as a bartender for Armistice Brewing Company, back when the brewery first opened in 2017. At the time, the craft brewhouse, owned by siblings Greg and Alex Zobel, was among the early wavemakers to move in along Richmond’s changing waterfront. They have since outlasted COVID to become one of the city’s flagship breweries with prime real estate in the marina. And though Montano left Armistice in 2019 to pursue her own ventures, she loved her time there and took a newfound interest in beer that she never anticipated.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I knew nothing about beer,” she admits. “But working there gave me experience with seeing how a business runs. I definitely started liking beer after that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914416\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914416\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Woman in green sweatshirt stands in front of a large metal kettle for brewing beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Before Viviana Montano opened a taqueria, she dipped her toes in the beer business at Armistice Brewing. \u003ccite>(Armistice Brewing)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Montano is collaborating with Armistice again on the brewery’s belated “Four Once More” block party, a fourth-anniversary celebration initially scheduled for 2021 but delayed due to COVID-related safety. The June 11 day party will feature live DJs, a free photo booth, family friendly activities and food served by Rocky Island Oyster Co., Curbside Kitchen and, of course, El Garage.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most enticingly, Armistice will be releasing a line of special beers, headlined by their partnership with El Garage’s Montano, who has taken the lead on her own unique creation: a mangonada “smoothie ale” called the Feliz Sábado.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you don’t know what a mangonada is, it’s a juicy mango party inside your cup. Usually, the summery treat consists of some variety of mango-flavored sorbet, fresh mango puree, salsa and chile. There are lime and orange variations as well, and they’re all typically served in the form of a colossal smoothie or spritzer. Drinking one is a common way to cool off in parts of Latin America.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turning all that into a beer isn’t exactly the norm, but it’s Montano’s way of showing love to the many influences and flavors that have shaped who she has become in her own community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Being from Richmond, I always wanted places like El Garage,” says Montano. “Places to hang out, drink a beer, have fun, with a Latinx experience for the community. That’s our goal: to embrace Richmond.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914413\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13914413 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-scaled.jpg\" alt='Four cans of beer with an orange and red label; the text on the can reads \"Feliz Sabado\" and \"Armistice + El Garage\"' width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once they have their beer and wine license, the El Garage team hopes to serve the “Feliz Sábado” at the taqueria. \u003ccite>(Armistice Brewing)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13902507,arts_13895488']Made with “pounds and pounds” of mangoes, chile piquín and milk sugar (an ingredient that helps to prevent the loss of sugar during the highest temperatures of the brewing process, allowing the beer to retain a sweet thickness reminiscent of a smoothie), Montano’s playful tribute will debut at the Armistice “Four Once More” block party.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eventually, Montano hopes to feature the beer at El Garage, which is currently in the process of securing a liquor license (as well as some old-school pinball machines). The taqueria and brewery are also in talks about another collaboration for Armistice’s next anniversary, which is scheduled for later this year on August 6—National IPA Day—to properly celebrate its fifth year of brewing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Who knows? Maybe we’ll get some rendition of a Quesa-Beer-IPA then? Or not. I’ll leave that to the pros to decide.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The “Four Once More” block party will happen on Saturday, June 11, from 1 to 8 pm, at Armistice Brewing Company, 845 Marina Bay Parkway, Suite 1, Richmond. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-anniversary-block-party-at-armistice-brewing-company-tickets-337405317387\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$10 tickets include first beer\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Children with guardian are free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though often operating under the radar—inside discreet flea markets, word-of-mouth backyards and literal garages—Richmond has quietly risen into the top tier of Bay Area food and beverage destinations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whether it’s a lager at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eastbrotherbeer/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">East Brother Beer Co.\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13913355/guatemalan-rice-tamales-antojitos-guatemaltecos-richmond\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Guatemalan rice tamal at Antojitos Guatemaltecos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, or \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13913985/hot-cheeto-burrito-taqueria-el-mezcal-richard-montanez-san-pablo\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a Hot Cheetos burrito at Taqueria El Mezcal\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the area’s rich culinary scene—influenced by the diverse presence of Black, immigrant and working-class families—is worth a trip. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The latest offering that speaks to that creativity? A mangonada-inspired beer created by \u003ca href=\"http://www.armisticebrewing.com/\">Armistice Brewing\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/el_gaaarage/?hl=en\">El Garage\u003c/a>—two heavyweights in the Richmond food and beverage game.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Very few residents exemplify the area’s success more than El Garage co-founder Viviana Montano. A born-and-raised Rich City business owner, Montano and her family opened their wildly popular taqueria in 2019, when it operated as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2019/11/21/20937687/el-garage-quesabirria-birria-taco-richmond-instagram\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">pop-up inside the family’s garage\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Since then, El Garage has \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/9/21319032/quesabirria-tacos-el-garage-richmond\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">expanded into a premier downtown location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and garnered attention from every taco lover in the region, including \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101887986/exploring-richmonds-taco-corridor-and-more-with-luke-tsai\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">KQED’s own food editor, Luke Tsai, who spoke with Montano about her favorite hometown spots to grub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914417\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914417\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Two tacos topped with beef birria and melted cheese, with sliced cucumbers and radishes on the side.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/el-garage-quesabirria-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Garage’s signature quesabirria is revered by East Bay taco lovers. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But before all that taco glory, Montano started out as a bartender for Armistice Brewing Company, back when the brewery first opened in 2017. At the time, the craft brewhouse, owned by siblings Greg and Alex Zobel, was among the early wavemakers to move in along Richmond’s changing waterfront. They have since outlasted COVID to become one of the city’s flagship breweries with prime real estate in the marina. And though Montano left Armistice in 2019 to pursue her own ventures, she loved her time there and took a newfound interest in beer that she never anticipated.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I knew nothing about beer,” she admits. “But working there gave me experience with seeing how a business runs. I definitely started liking beer after that.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914416\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914416\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Woman in green sweatshirt stands in front of a large metal kettle for brewing beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/ArmisticeViviana-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Before Viviana Montano opened a taqueria, she dipped her toes in the beer business at Armistice Brewing. \u003ccite>(Armistice Brewing)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, Montano is collaborating with Armistice again on the brewery’s belated “Four Once More” block party, a fourth-anniversary celebration initially scheduled for 2021 but delayed due to COVID-related safety. The June 11 day party will feature live DJs, a free photo booth, family friendly activities and food served by Rocky Island Oyster Co., Curbside Kitchen and, of course, El Garage.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most enticingly, Armistice will be releasing a line of special beers, headlined by their partnership with El Garage’s Montano, who has taken the lead on her own unique creation: a mangonada “smoothie ale” called the Feliz Sábado.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you don’t know what a mangonada is, it’s a juicy mango party inside your cup. Usually, the summery treat consists of some variety of mango-flavored sorbet, fresh mango puree, salsa and chile. There are lime and orange variations as well, and they’re all typically served in the form of a colossal smoothie or spritzer. Drinking one is a common way to cool off in parts of Latin America.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Turning all that into a beer isn’t exactly the norm, but it’s Montano’s way of showing love to the many influences and flavors that have shaped who she has become in her own community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Being from Richmond, I always wanted places like El Garage,” says Montano. “Places to hang out, drink a beer, have fun, with a Latinx experience for the community. That’s our goal: to embrace Richmond.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914413\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13914413 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-scaled.jpg\" alt='Four cans of beer with an orange and red label; the text on the can reads \"Feliz Sabado\" and \"Armistice + El Garage\"' width=\"2560\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-2048x1152.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/06/feliz-sabado-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Once they have their beer and wine license, the El Garage team hopes to serve the “Feliz Sábado” at the taqueria. \u003ccite>(Armistice Brewing)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Made with “pounds and pounds” of mangoes, chile piquín and milk sugar (an ingredient that helps to prevent the loss of sugar during the highest temperatures of the brewing process, allowing the beer to retain a sweet thickness reminiscent of a smoothie), Montano’s playful tribute will debut at the Armistice “Four Once More” block party.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Eventually, Montano hopes to feature the beer at El Garage, which is currently in the process of securing a liquor license (as well as some old-school pinball machines). The taqueria and brewery are also in talks about another collaboration for Armistice’s next anniversary, which is scheduled for later this year on August 6—National IPA Day—to properly celebrate its fifth year of brewing.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Who knows? Maybe we’ll get some rendition of a Quesa-Beer-IPA then? Or not. I’ll leave that to the pros to decide.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The “Four Once More” block party will happen on Saturday, June 11, from 1 to 8 pm, at Armistice Brewing Company, 845 Marina Bay Parkway, Suite 1, Richmond. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-anniversary-block-party-at-armistice-brewing-company-tickets-337405317387\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$10 tickets include first beer\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Children with guardian are free.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Taqueria El Mezcal's Hot Cheetos Burrito Is Endorsed by Chester Cheetah",
"headTitle": "Taqueria El Mezcal’s Hot Cheetos Burrito Is Endorsed by Chester Cheetah | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]W[/dropcap]hen it comes to Mexican American junk foods—those hybridized flavors that aren’t fully Mexican or American, but exist somewhere in a middling borderland—nothing is more representative than an iconic bag of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With its artificial red 40 food coloring, monosodium glutamate and other ingredients I can’t confidently pronounce, the enriched cornmeal munchie has become the embodiment of a fuego emoji—not only for Latinx teenagers and food vloggers, but for American pop culture at large. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">From \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mountaindew.com/products/mtn-dew-flamin-hot/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flamin’ Hot Mountain Dew\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/katy-perry-is-a-hot-745481/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Katy Perry donning an adult-sized Flamin’ Hot Cheetos outfit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the years-long craze has totally consumed the mainstream.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nowadays, you can find Hot Cheetos just about anywhere. In fact, they’re so prevalent that I can even get them by rolling past the drive-through window at my neighborhood taqueria, where the workers serve them in a bag of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, with said Cheetos stuffed inside a carne asada burrito.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd5zZR0AK5_/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most recently, the product appears in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChesterCheetah/status/1526334576951447553\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a new ad campaign with Bad Bunny\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, where the Puerto Rican reggaeton sensation coolly struts down city streets while transforming any surface he touches into a bursting combustion of red. (Bad Bunny’s co-star, Chester Cheetah, uses the cameo as an opportunity to change his social media name to Bad Cheetah. Nicely played, animal kingdom).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The commercial is a tantalizing promise that Frito-Lay has been enticing customers with since first launching their brand in the summer of 1990: that Flamin’ Hot Cheetos are more than a red-fingered trend; they’re a lifestyle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yet when the rest of us not named Bad Bunny touch anything with our red hands, we don’t change the world; instead, we just leave hard-to-remove splotches. Over my lifetime, I’ve accidentally stained countless white tees and fitted caps with red powder—or worse, I’ve mistakenly rubbed my eyes with the spicy residue that lingers uncomfortably long, like too much chile on an unprepared tongue. But even then, I always go back for the sting. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So how did this junk food with dubious origins reach the top of our cultural food pyramid? You can thank Richard Montañez. He’s the man who famously claims to have invented Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A former janitor whose parents worked in a migrant labor camp, Montañez has authored two books, including his latest memoir, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flamin’ Hot: The Incredible True Story of One Man’s Rise from Janitor to Top Executive\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. He documents how he went on to become the Vice President of Multicultural Sales and Community Promotions for PepsiCo, with a net worth of $10 million.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\"]“The enriched cornmeal munchie has become the embodiment of a fuego emoji—not only for Latinx teenagers and food vloggers, but for American pop culture at large.”[/pullquote]\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/business/story/2021-05-16/flamin-hot-cheetos-richard-montanez\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In what has since become a publicly disputed firestorm\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—creating a rift \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101883550/la-times-flamin-hot-cheetos-expose-hits-a-nerve-with-latinos\">in the Latinx community\u003c/a>—Montañez states that he first pitched Frito-Lay’s executives on the idea of “Hispanic branding” as part of their “method-improvement program” decades ago. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkFGUimJfzM\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Montañez tells the story\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he came up with his legendary creation one day when he took home a bunch of regularly-flavored Cheetos bags from his workplace after a vending machine broke, then seasoned them with spices reminiscent of Mexican street corn.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a lovable narrative that Frito-Lay never denied… until 2021, when the company declared it had \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/business/story/2021-05-16/flamin-hot-cheetos-richard-montanez\">no record of Montañez’s involvement with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos\u003c/a>. This set off a chain of events in which internet sleuths, \u003ca href=\"https://knock-la.com/hot-cheetos-los-angeles-richard-montanez/\">community advocates and foodies defended Montañez\u003c/a>, declaring that his erasure was an act of racism—pressure that \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/2021/05/20/origin-flamin-hot-cheetos-might-be-hot-lie-millions-will-still-gobble-it-up-anyway/\">led Frito-Lay to backtrack \u003c/a>while still not crediting Montañez as the snack’s sole inventor. It’s a hot topic that has yet to be fully resolved.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m not here to defend, deny or corroborate any of Montañez’s spicy revelations. All I know is that Flamin’ Hot Cheetos are devoutly beloved and have been a legitimate source of sustenance at any house party or after-school hangout, especially for Mexican Americans like me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914283\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914283\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior.jpg\" alt=\"A view of Taqueria El Mezcal's facade from the parking lot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taqueria El Mezcal’s San Pablo location is especially popular among high schoolers. The small East Bay chain also has locations in Hayward and San Lorenzo. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maybe that’s why Jesús Sepulvera, the owner of Taqueria El Mezcal, recited Montañez’s story to me when we met. As I sat inside the San Pablo location of the taco chain—which Sepulvera originally opened in San Lorenzo in 2008—I ate a Hot Cheetos burrito and listened to him tell me about the inspiration for his own creation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Similar to Montañez, Sepulvera is of Mexican heritage, with roots in Jalisco, and has worked his way into a successful position after an entry-level start. In Sepulvera’s case, he needed a menu item to attract more customers to his business during the pandemic slowdown. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s when Sepulvera decided to access the bursting mine of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. Sepulvera started pouring bags of the neon snacks inside burritos, along with carne asada, gooey nacho cheese and french fries. As I munched on one of these burritos, the trademark taste of the Hot Cheetos was overpowered by the meat and nacho cheese, but I was left with a satisfyingly soft crunch in between each bite. The teenager in me could’ve eaten a few—they’re smaller than you might expect—but my adult stomach reached capacity after one order with a side of tortilla chips and a Jarritos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B4yOLGuBavc/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y%3D\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The flavorful burrito’s creativity has attracted praise from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cheetos/\">Chester Cheetah’s official Instagram account\u003c/a>—and, according to Sepulvera, even got the nod of approval from Montañez himself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sepulvera is not the original Da Vinci of this masterpiece, though. He credits a trip to San Diego as his muse and is happy that the Hot Cheetos burrito has brought in new waves of customers—most of them between the ages of 12 to 35, he says—to consume what is now the most popular dish on the menu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With the help of Instagram and TikTok, the Hot Cheetos burrito has helped the neighborhood taqueria stay afloat amid a series of nearby closures. It’s especially popular with youth from schools in the surrounding area, whom Sepulvera acknowledges as being largely responsible for his business’s success.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914284\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914284\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes.jpg\" alt=\"Two youngsters show off milkshakes loaded with sweet toppings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In addition to its selection of Flamin’ Hot entrees, El Mezcal is also known for milkshakes with Mexican-inspired flavors. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my visit, high schoolers were lined up at the register, jostling with excitement over a Hot Cheetos calorie bomb with a side of extra sugar—such as one of the taqueria’s attention-grabbing flan, churro, or mazapan (Mexican peanut candy) milkshakes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13913201,arts_13895488']“You can find regular burritos and tacos anywhere, but this is something different,” Sepulvera tells me in Spanish. “The young people love sweets, food that is a little more greasy. [This burrito] has more calories, but they seem to love it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a Flamin’ Hot Cheetos loyalist and burrito lover myself, I’m forever thankful I found El Mezcal’s Monday burrito specials, when you can get this divine item for just $7. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Those who like variety can also order a “Hot Cheetos Crunchwrap” off the taqueria’s secret menu or a classic Mexican food item like a shrimp cocktail from its mariscos (seafood) selection.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whatever you do, make sure to indulge while there, since indulgence is the truest indicator of any taqueria worth its spice—no matter how red or artificial it may seem.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elmezcalsanpablo/?hl=en\">Taqueria El Mezcal\u003c/a> is open 10 am–9 pm daily at 14260 San Pablo Ave. in San Pablo. The East Bay chain also has locations in \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/taqueriaelmezcal/?hl=en\">Hayward\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elmezcalhesperian/?hl=en\">San Lorenzo\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">W\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>hen it comes to Mexican American junk foods—those hybridized flavors that aren’t fully Mexican or American, but exist somewhere in a middling borderland—nothing is more representative than an iconic bag of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With its artificial red 40 food coloring, monosodium glutamate and other ingredients I can’t confidently pronounce, the enriched cornmeal munchie has become the embodiment of a fuego emoji—not only for Latinx teenagers and food vloggers, but for American pop culture at large. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">From \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.mountaindew.com/products/mtn-dew-flamin-hot/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flamin’ Hot Mountain Dew\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/katy-perry-is-a-hot-745481/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Katy Perry donning an adult-sized Flamin’ Hot Cheetos outfit\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the years-long craze has totally consumed the mainstream.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nowadays, you can find Hot Cheetos just about anywhere. In fact, they’re so prevalent that I can even get them by rolling past the drive-through window at my neighborhood taqueria, where the workers serve them in a bag of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, with said Cheetos stuffed inside a carne asada burrito.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Most recently, the product appears in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChesterCheetah/status/1526334576951447553\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a new ad campaign with Bad Bunny\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, where the Puerto Rican reggaeton sensation coolly struts down city streets while transforming any surface he touches into a bursting combustion of red. (Bad Bunny’s co-star, Chester Cheetah, uses the cameo as an opportunity to change his social media name to Bad Cheetah. Nicely played, animal kingdom).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The commercial is a tantalizing promise that Frito-Lay has been enticing customers with since first launching their brand in the summer of 1990: that Flamin’ Hot Cheetos are more than a red-fingered trend; they’re a lifestyle.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yet when the rest of us not named Bad Bunny touch anything with our red hands, we don’t change the world; instead, we just leave hard-to-remove splotches. Over my lifetime, I’ve accidentally stained countless white tees and fitted caps with red powder—or worse, I’ve mistakenly rubbed my eyes with the spicy residue that lingers uncomfortably long, like too much chile on an unprepared tongue. But even then, I always go back for the sting. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">So how did this junk food with dubious origins reach the top of our cultural food pyramid? You can thank Richard Montañez. He’s the man who famously claims to have invented Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A former janitor whose parents worked in a migrant labor camp, Montañez has authored two books, including his latest memoir, \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flamin’ Hot: The Incredible True Story of One Man’s Rise from Janitor to Top Executive\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. He documents how he went on to become the Vice President of Multicultural Sales and Community Promotions for PepsiCo, with a net worth of $10 million.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“The enriched cornmeal munchie has become the embodiment of a fuego emoji—not only for Latinx teenagers and food vloggers, but for American pop culture at large.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/business/story/2021-05-16/flamin-hot-cheetos-richard-montanez\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In what has since become a publicly disputed firestorm\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—creating a rift \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/2010101883550/la-times-flamin-hot-cheetos-expose-hits-a-nerve-with-latinos\">in the Latinx community\u003c/a>—Montañez states that he first pitched Frito-Lay’s executives on the idea of “Hispanic branding” as part of their “method-improvement program” decades ago. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkFGUimJfzM\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Montañez tells the story\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he came up with his legendary creation one day when he took home a bunch of regularly-flavored Cheetos bags from his workplace after a vending machine broke, then seasoned them with spices reminiscent of Mexican street corn.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s a lovable narrative that Frito-Lay never denied… until 2021, when the company declared it had \u003ca href=\"https://www.latimes.com/business/story/2021-05-16/flamin-hot-cheetos-richard-montanez\">no record of Montañez’s involvement with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos\u003c/a>. This set off a chain of events in which internet sleuths, \u003ca href=\"https://knock-la.com/hot-cheetos-los-angeles-richard-montanez/\">community advocates and foodies defended Montañez\u003c/a>, declaring that his erasure was an act of racism—pressure that \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/opinions/2021/05/20/origin-flamin-hot-cheetos-might-be-hot-lie-millions-will-still-gobble-it-up-anyway/\">led Frito-Lay to backtrack \u003c/a>while still not crediting Montañez as the snack’s sole inventor. It’s a hot topic that has yet to be fully resolved.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I’m not here to defend, deny or corroborate any of Montañez’s spicy revelations. All I know is that Flamin’ Hot Cheetos are devoutly beloved and have been a legitimate source of sustenance at any house party or after-school hangout, especially for Mexican Americans like me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914283\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914283\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior.jpg\" alt=\"A view of Taqueria El Mezcal's facade from the parking lot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_exterior-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Taqueria El Mezcal’s San Pablo location is especially popular among high schoolers. The small East Bay chain also has locations in Hayward and San Lorenzo. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maybe that’s why Jesús Sepulvera, the owner of Taqueria El Mezcal, recited Montañez’s story to me when we met. As I sat inside the San Pablo location of the taco chain—which Sepulvera originally opened in San Lorenzo in 2008—I ate a Hot Cheetos burrito and listened to him tell me about the inspiration for his own creation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Similar to Montañez, Sepulvera is of Mexican heritage, with roots in Jalisco, and has worked his way into a successful position after an entry-level start. In Sepulvera’s case, he needed a menu item to attract more customers to his business during the pandemic slowdown. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s when Sepulvera decided to access the bursting mine of Flamin’ Hot Cheetos. Sepulvera started pouring bags of the neon snacks inside burritos, along with carne asada, gooey nacho cheese and french fries. As I munched on one of these burritos, the trademark taste of the Hot Cheetos was overpowered by the meat and nacho cheese, but I was left with a satisfyingly soft crunch in between each bite. The teenager in me could’ve eaten a few—they’re smaller than you might expect—but my adult stomach reached capacity after one order with a side of tortilla chips and a Jarritos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The flavorful burrito’s creativity has attracted praise from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/cheetos/\">Chester Cheetah’s official Instagram account\u003c/a>—and, according to Sepulvera, even got the nod of approval from Montañez himself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sepulvera is not the original Da Vinci of this masterpiece, though. He credits a trip to San Diego as his muse and is happy that the Hot Cheetos burrito has brought in new waves of customers—most of them between the ages of 12 to 35, he says—to consume what is now the most popular dish on the menu.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With the help of Instagram and TikTok, the Hot Cheetos burrito has helped the neighborhood taqueria stay afloat amid a series of nearby closures. It’s especially popular with youth from schools in the surrounding area, whom Sepulvera acknowledges as being largely responsible for his business’s success.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914284\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914284\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes.jpg\" alt=\"Two youngsters show off milkshakes loaded with sweet toppings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elmezcal_shakes-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In addition to its selection of Flamin’ Hot entrees, El Mezcal is also known for milkshakes with Mexican-inspired flavors. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">During my visit, high schoolers were lined up at the register, jostling with excitement over a Hot Cheetos calorie bomb with a side of extra sugar—such as one of the taqueria’s attention-grabbing flan, churro, or mazapan (Mexican peanut candy) milkshakes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“You can find regular burritos and tacos anywhere, but this is something different,” Sepulvera tells me in Spanish. “The young people love sweets, food that is a little more greasy. [This burrito] has more calories, but they seem to love it.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As a Flamin’ Hot Cheetos loyalist and burrito lover myself, I’m forever thankful I found El Mezcal’s Monday burrito specials, when you can get this divine item for just $7. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Those who like variety can also order a “Hot Cheetos Crunchwrap” off the taqueria’s secret menu or a classic Mexican food item like a shrimp cocktail from its mariscos (seafood) selection.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Whatever you do, make sure to indulge while there, since indulgence is the truest indicator of any taqueria worth its spice—no matter how red or artificial it may seem.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elmezcalsanpablo/?hl=en\">Taqueria El Mezcal\u003c/a> is open 10 am–9 pm daily at 14260 San Pablo Ave. in San Pablo. The East Bay chain also has locations in \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/taqueriaelmezcal/?hl=en\">Hayward\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elmezcalhesperian/?hl=en\">San Lorenzo\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "A Ghanaian Fine Dining Pop-Up Makes Space for Black Chefs in SF",
"headTitle": "A Ghanaian Fine Dining Pop-Up Makes Space for Black Chefs in SF | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>For the past several years, Selasie Dotse has worked at acclaimed fine dining restaurants like Lazy Bear, Avery, SPQR—a parade of Bay Area Michelin star contenders. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21372187/bay-area-fine-dining-restaurants-racism-as-a-black-chef\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Most of the time, she’s been the only Black chef in the kitchen\u003c/a>. The only Black woman. The only African.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so it has been both a challenge—and a personal mission—for Dotse to carve out a space for herself and for other Black folks who aspire to make a name for themselves in this most rarefied sector of the dining scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914101\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1179px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914101\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling chef wearing a baseball cap and apron sits at a wood table inside a restaurant.\" width=\"1179\" height=\"1766\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot.jpg 1179w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-800x1198.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-1020x1528.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-768x1150.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-1025x1536.jpg 1025w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1179px) 100vw, 1179px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At all of the Bay Area fine dining restaurants where Dotse has worked, she has been one of the only Black chefs in the kitchen. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Copas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The goal is just to be like, ‘We’re here,’ Dotse says. “I want to find ways to let the Bay Area know that there are Black chefs, that there are African chefs. It’s not all white chefs doing Asian techniques.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of how she’s done that? Through pop-ups. This Sunday, May 29, she’ll launch her latest, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elade_tk/\">Elade Test Kitchen\u003c/a>, a culinary exploration of Dotse’s own Ghanaian heritage, but done through the lens of modern fine dining techniques and presentation. As such, it’ll almost certainly be a meal unlike any that most diners will have ever experienced. The dinner is part of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdyiH56psoS/\">Sunday Supper series\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/copasonmarket/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Copas\u003c/a>, the Northern California-inflected Spanish-Mexican restaurant on Market Street in San Francisco, where Dotse is the sous chef and pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this weekend’s pop-up, Dotse plans to take the handful of West African dishes that diners may have experienced—suya, jollof rice and plantains—and remix them in new and exciting ways. So, she’ll do a version of jollof rice, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896069/jolly-jolly-nigerian-restaurant-west-oakland-jollof-rice-indomie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">savory, tomato-tinged staple\u003c/a>. But she’s going to make it with rice grits (cooked pieces of broken rice) and then serve it stuffed inside a fried chicken wing glazed with shitor, an umami-packed Ghanaian chile sauce that she makes from scratch. (“It’s one of the best hot sauces, in my opinion,” Dotse says.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’ll serve seared scallops in a creamy palm nut soup. She’ll do a take on suya, the famously beloved well-spiced meat skewers, but she’ll do it as a single cut of grilled steak served with roasted plantains and a plantain barbecue sauce—a modern spin on a classic combination. All told, Dotse says, there will be about nine courses, including a dessert of bruléed crepes and Milo ice cream (a nod to a favorite childhood \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIzy31ES0Fo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Ghanaian breakfast\u003c/a>), and an optional wine pairing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Dotse, Elade Test Kitchen presents an opportunity to go even deeper in exploring her heritage. She’d done an earlier version of the pop-up under the name “Sankofa,” a Ghanaian word for the idea of using your past experiences to help you grow in the future. It was a term she felt resonated with her cooking philosophy. But as Dotse researched her family history, she learned that “sankofa” is actually a term used by Ghana’s Akan ethnic group, whereas her family is a part of the Ewe ethnic group based in Ghana’s Volta River region. She has spent the past year really trying to reconnect with those roots, taking drumming lessons with a local Ewe musician and adopting a new Ewe name for her pop-up: “Elade” means “tasty” or “appealing to the tongue” in the Ewe language, Dotse explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914108\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp and okra in a pool of thick red-orange sauce, served on a crystal platter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An early test version of a Ghanaian-style okra soup that Dotse would like to serve at her pop-up. \u003ccite>(Selasie Dotse)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In future editions of the pop-up, she’ll dig into the nuances of those cultural distinctions, serving more dishes that are specific to the Ewe people. For instance, she’d like to make a viscous okra soup known as fetri detsi, which Dotse’s family always loaded with fresh seafood like crab and shrimp, serving it with a fermented corn dough called akple for dipping and scooping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13896069,arts_13910410']\u003c/span>Dotse’s hope is that other Black chefs who are frustrated by the lack of opportunities in the Bay Area fine dining scene will be able to look to her pop-ups as a model and a source of hope. She says chefs like her are tired of waiting for their white colleagues to drastically change the culture inside fine dining kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s part of the reason Dotse is actually leaving her current job to take on a new role: Starting in July, she’ll be a sous chef at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/4/5/23011862/hi-felicia-new-restaurant-oakland-open-imana-fine-dining\">Hi Felicia\u003c/a>, a Black-owned fine dining restaurant in Oakland with a Black head chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If these spaces aren’t going to make space for us, and try and make us feel welcome, we’re just going to have to create our own spaces,” Dotse says. “The only people who are going to look out for us are us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elade_tk/\">Elade Test Kitchen\u003c/a> pop-up will take place on Sunday, May 29, from 5–8pm, at Copas at 2223 Market St. in San Francisco. The cost of the tasting menu is $84 a person, not including the optional wine pairing. To reserve a seat during that block of time, visit \u003ca href=\"https://resy.com/cities/sf/copas\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Resy\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For the past several years, Selasie Dotse has worked at acclaimed fine dining restaurants like Lazy Bear, Avery, SPQR—a parade of Bay Area Michelin star contenders. \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/21372187/bay-area-fine-dining-restaurants-racism-as-a-black-chef\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Most of the time, she’s been the only Black chef in the kitchen\u003c/a>. The only Black woman. The only African.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so it has been both a challenge—and a personal mission—for Dotse to carve out a space for herself and for other Black folks who aspire to make a name for themselves in this most rarefied sector of the dining scene.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914101\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1179px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914101\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot.jpg\" alt=\"A smiling chef wearing a baseball cap and apron sits at a wood table inside a restaurant.\" width=\"1179\" height=\"1766\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot.jpg 1179w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-800x1198.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-1020x1528.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-768x1150.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/selasie-headshot-1025x1536.jpg 1025w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1179px) 100vw, 1179px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At all of the Bay Area fine dining restaurants where Dotse has worked, she has been one of the only Black chefs in the kitchen. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Copas)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The goal is just to be like, ‘We’re here,’ Dotse says. “I want to find ways to let the Bay Area know that there are Black chefs, that there are African chefs. It’s not all white chefs doing Asian techniques.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of how she’s done that? Through pop-ups. This Sunday, May 29, she’ll launch her latest, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elade_tk/\">Elade Test Kitchen\u003c/a>, a culinary exploration of Dotse’s own Ghanaian heritage, but done through the lens of modern fine dining techniques and presentation. As such, it’ll almost certainly be a meal unlike any that most diners will have ever experienced. The dinner is part of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdyiH56psoS/\">Sunday Supper series\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/copasonmarket/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Copas\u003c/a>, the Northern California-inflected Spanish-Mexican restaurant on Market Street in San Francisco, where Dotse is the sous chef and pastry chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this weekend’s pop-up, Dotse plans to take the handful of West African dishes that diners may have experienced—suya, jollof rice and plantains—and remix them in new and exciting ways. So, she’ll do a version of jollof rice, that \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13896069/jolly-jolly-nigerian-restaurant-west-oakland-jollof-rice-indomie\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">savory, tomato-tinged staple\u003c/a>. But she’s going to make it with rice grits (cooked pieces of broken rice) and then serve it stuffed inside a fried chicken wing glazed with shitor, an umami-packed Ghanaian chile sauce that she makes from scratch. (“It’s one of the best hot sauces, in my opinion,” Dotse says.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’ll serve seared scallops in a creamy palm nut soup. She’ll do a take on suya, the famously beloved well-spiced meat skewers, but she’ll do it as a single cut of grilled steak served with roasted plantains and a plantain barbecue sauce—a modern spin on a classic combination. All told, Dotse says, there will be about nine courses, including a dessert of bruléed crepes and Milo ice cream (a nod to a favorite childhood \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIzy31ES0Fo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Ghanaian breakfast\u003c/a>), and an optional wine pairing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Dotse, Elade Test Kitchen presents an opportunity to go even deeper in exploring her heritage. She’d done an earlier version of the pop-up under the name “Sankofa,” a Ghanaian word for the idea of using your past experiences to help you grow in the future. It was a term she felt resonated with her cooking philosophy. But as Dotse researched her family history, she learned that “sankofa” is actually a term used by Ghana’s Akan ethnic group, whereas her family is a part of the Ewe ethnic group based in Ghana’s Volta River region. She has spent the past year really trying to reconnect with those roots, taking drumming lessons with a local Ewe musician and adopting a new Ewe name for her pop-up: “Elade” means “tasty” or “appealing to the tongue” in the Ewe language, Dotse explains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13914108\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp and okra in a pool of thick red-orange sauce, served on a crystal platter.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/elade_okra-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An early test version of a Ghanaian-style okra soup that Dotse would like to serve at her pop-up. \u003ccite>(Selasie Dotse)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In future editions of the pop-up, she’ll dig into the nuances of those cultural distinctions, serving more dishes that are specific to the Ewe people. For instance, she’d like to make a viscous okra soup known as fetri detsi, which Dotse’s family always loaded with fresh seafood like crab and shrimp, serving it with a fermented corn dough called akple for dipping and scooping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>Dotse’s hope is that other Black chefs who are frustrated by the lack of opportunities in the Bay Area fine dining scene will be able to look to her pop-ups as a model and a source of hope. She says chefs like her are tired of waiting for their white colleagues to drastically change the culture inside fine dining kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s part of the reason Dotse is actually leaving her current job to take on a new role: Starting in July, she’ll be a sous chef at \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2022/4/5/23011862/hi-felicia-new-restaurant-oakland-open-imana-fine-dining\">Hi Felicia\u003c/a>, a Black-owned fine dining restaurant in Oakland with a Black head chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If these spaces aren’t going to make space for us, and try and make us feel welcome, we’re just going to have to create our own spaces,” Dotse says. “The only people who are going to look out for us are us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12127869\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/09/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/elade_tk/\">Elade Test Kitchen\u003c/a> pop-up will take place on Sunday, May 29, from 5–8pm, at Copas at 2223 Market St. in San Francisco. The cost of the tasting menu is $84 a person, not including the optional wine pairing. To reserve a seat during that block of time, visit \u003ca href=\"https://resy.com/cities/sf/copas\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Resy\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "smax-okonomiyaki-chopped-cheese-asian-american-pop-up-vallejo-san-francisco",
"title": "At Roving Pop-Up SMAX, the Okonomiyaki Comes Animal Style—and Yes, It Smacks",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a weekly conversation with Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary culture through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to local food and culture, there are certain rules and codes that Baydestrians abide by.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The DO’s: Share the love. In the words of rising Vallejo rapper, LaRussell, the Bay is a place where we \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/cook-together-eat-together-larussels-latest-album-harkens-back-to-bay-area-tradition-while-shining-a-light-on-the-future-with-a-passed-torch/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cook Together, Eat Together\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Around here, it’s all about breaking bread with your folks and feeding your kin.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The DON’T’s: Do not say “food slaps.” As the Yay Area’s leading chef, E-40, made clear on his Verzuz appearance with Too $hort, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908052/food-doesnt-slap\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“food don’t slap”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a mantra which \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908052/food-doesnt-slap\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">fellow KQED writer Pendarvis Harshaw\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> emphatically supports.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Bay Area food “smacks,” “shhhhmacks” or “SMAX.” And when done right, it’s something we can all appreciate.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Such is the art of delivering delicious cuisine—and teaching proper Bay Area slanguage—at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/that_smax/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SMAX, a pop-up and test kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that focuses on creatively assembled sandwiches and treats served by Paris and Joog, two friends from San Francisco and Vallejo, respectively. Usually posted up at events like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911888/415-day-san-francisco-rap-rbl-posse-stunnaman02-fillmore-hunters-point\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six’s 415 Day\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, you’ll find P running the kitchen and Joog overseeing operations and management.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Together, the duo draws from their Asian American upbringing and nostalgia to provide a rotating menu of wildly reimagined flavors. Their foods are artfully expressive creations in which identity, dreams, culture, friendship and flavor mingle in each bite.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A beefy, bodega-certified chopped cheese? Got that. Guava BBQ chicken banh mi made with freshly whipped fruits? You already know. And perhaps the most inventive of their ideas, honey walnut shrimp like you can only find at your neighborhood Chinese joint, now reincarnated as a katsu sandwich? Smackin’.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914044\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13914044\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A sandwich with spam, American cheese, egg, and mac salad, being served on a food tray\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Island Boi features house-made spam, American cheese and mac salad on a sweet pineapple bun. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re looking for more than a flavorful sando, they don’t just stack bread at this roving pop-up; they also dish up savory plates and sugary desserts while providing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thatsmax.bigcartel.com/product/smax-chili-oil-og-not-spicy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">take-home sauces\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thatsmax.bigcartel.com/product/fooddontslap\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">merch\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They’ve experimented with an “Oko scallion pancake”—a Chinese-style green onion pancake topped with Japanese okonomiyaki ingredients such as cabbage, thick-cut bacon, mayonnaise and a fried egg.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They’ve also messed around with pastrami fried rice—a New York City twist on the Chinese food staple, fueled by their summer trips to the East Coast after late-night DJ runs at the club. (In true Bay fashion, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/djjoog\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">DJ Joog has a music side hustle\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) Oh, and you can’t forget their orange creamsicle cookies to cap off your culinary nostalgia, like a late-night liquor store run.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Personally, I came for the “Animal Style” okonomiyaki—a version of the traditional Japanese hotcakes made with In-N-Out style dressing and bacon—and “The Island Boi”—a Hawaiian-inspired sandwich with house-made Spam, melted American cheese, egg and mac salad between chewy Hong Kong-style pineapple buns. I paired that with a sweet, sesame-filled ube mochi.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I slid by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisisbabas.house/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Baba’s House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a restaurant and specialty Asian snack store that doubles as one of SMAX’s temporary locations in the East Bay—where I had the privilege to taste these delicacies that the friends have been offering for the past five years.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How would you describe the food at SMAX?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">PARIS: We make specialty sandwiches that are rooted in the nostalgic dishes we really enjoy eating or that we grew up on. We talk about what we used to eat around the neighborhood, and that inspires us for our new dishes. We want to bring folks back to better times, when we were all younger, and we just package that all in our food with new ideas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914045\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13914045\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two young men, Paris and Joog, stand in front of Baba's House Kitchen. Joog is wearing a shirt that says "food don't slap" while P is beside him, pointing at the shirt.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joog (left) and P (right) stand in front of Baba’s House, rocking a “Food Don’t Slap” tee available on their site. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>With such a vast rotating menu, what’s been your most popular item?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">JOOG: We’re constantly shifting and experimenting. One [item] that got the best reviews is the “chopped cheese.” We plan to do that more regularly with rotating specials. It was a new way to present a New York burger that people in the Bay haven’t seen before. We love that sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: Chopped cheese, for sure. But all around, people have been fucking with all our crazy creations. People get excited for the new things we create. We like to get feedback and see how people interact with a new sandwich, but then we might only do it once and keep inventing new things.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How does your food reflect the Bay Area you grew up in?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: I’m from Vallejo. We always want it to be accessible to our folks, to serve the communities that we care about. That shows up in our food because we’re always looking to serve other creative independent people, anyone trying to just do something on their own. It’s hard to be financially independent in the Bay. But we want to provide that community and good feeling for folks without ever seeming exclusive. Whoever is doing their own hustle and doing their thing, that’s inspiring. Whether it’s art, music or organizing the community. Those are all valid and influence how we cook because those are the people we serve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: I’m from San Francisco. It’s just about looking out for others here. We might not be available for a pop up, but we’ll hook someone up with another person who is. Artists, vendors, DJs, it’s all a big community of putting each other on so we can all eat. Meeting new creatives and finding new products that local people sell is dope, and we strive to make those connections with others, especially since we’re all from the same soil here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CbDSCMll08O/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s been the biggest challenge in being a pop-up over the past half decade?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: It’s hard to keep up with overhead and set our roots down as an independent business in the Bay. It’s almost impossible to buy a house or have property. We’ve always wanted a place to permanently be in, but it’s really hard to make that transition from mobile to having our own spot. We’ve been in this for so long and have hella experience, but [running a business like this] is a lot harder because we’re in the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: Our food menus are a form of creative expression. That’s why we switch it up. If you miss an item, you might not see it again. It’s our artistic expression in the moment. But we also realize we need to have some idea or main menu item that folks can hold on to as well. We need to provide consistent service but express ourselves as chefs. It’s a slower route for us to convince folks because we might switch it up. It’s a challenge, but people seem to enjoy trying our new stuff.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are your thoughts on the whole “slaps” versus “smacks” food war?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13913592,arts_13908052']P: Food definitely smacks. We wanted a name that was fun and encapsulated our energy and the vibe we were going for. What’s a word that people out here really connect with, especially with food? Smacks. The funny thing is that at first we were actually called “Slaps and Smacks” because we did events with DJs at first, too.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: We broke away from the “Slaps” part and stopped having DJs, and we just became “Smacks.” After a few years, we wanted our own personality to stand out so we changed the spelling to “SMAX.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: Now, we see more and more pop-ups with smacks in the name, so I’m kinda glad we pivoted and changed up the spelling early on.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: At the end of the day, we want our food to be rooted in the Bay. We can do that because we’re from out here, and we will always push that culture. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914046\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13914046\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A cartoon mural of an Asian cat wearing a beanie, sunglasses, and holding chopsticks. The mural is located inside Baba's House Kitchen restuarant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Illuminaries mural provides authentic Bay vibes inside Baba’s House. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Upcoming events: June 5 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/birdhausbeergarden/?hl=en\">Birdhaus Beer Garden\u003c/a>, 3821 Smith St., Union City from 11 am to 4 pm. June 12th at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdJT4stFZOB/\">Grow Off Market\u003c/a>, 400 Contra Costa St., Vallejo from 10 am to 4 pm. For future updates, follow \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/that_smax/?hl=en\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SMAX on Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "At Roving Pop-Up SMAX, the Okonomiyaki Comes Animal Style—and Yes, It Smacks | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a weekly conversation with Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary culture through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When it comes to local food and culture, there are certain rules and codes that Baydestrians abide by.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The DO’s: Share the love. In the words of rising Vallejo rapper, LaRussell, the Bay is a place where we \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/cook-together-eat-together-larussels-latest-album-harkens-back-to-bay-area-tradition-while-shining-a-light-on-the-future-with-a-passed-torch/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cook Together, Eat Together\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Around here, it’s all about breaking bread with your folks and feeding your kin.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The DON’T’s: Do not say “food slaps.” As the Yay Area’s leading chef, E-40, made clear on his Verzuz appearance with Too $hort, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908052/food-doesnt-slap\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“food don’t slap”\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a mantra which \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13908052/food-doesnt-slap\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">fellow KQED writer Pendarvis Harshaw\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> emphatically supports.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Bay Area food “smacks,” “shhhhmacks” or “SMAX.” And when done right, it’s something we can all appreciate.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Such is the art of delivering delicious cuisine—and teaching proper Bay Area slanguage—at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/that_smax/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SMAX, a pop-up and test kitchen\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that focuses on creatively assembled sandwiches and treats served by Paris and Joog, two friends from San Francisco and Vallejo, respectively. Usually posted up at events like \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13911888/415-day-san-francisco-rap-rbl-posse-stunnaman02-fillmore-hunters-point\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">District Six’s 415 Day\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, you’ll find P running the kitchen and Joog overseeing operations and management.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Together, the duo draws from their Asian American upbringing and nostalgia to provide a rotating menu of wildly reimagined flavors. Their foods are artfully expressive creations in which identity, dreams, culture, friendship and flavor mingle in each bite.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A beefy, bodega-certified chopped cheese? Got that. Guava BBQ chicken banh mi made with freshly whipped fruits? You already know. And perhaps the most inventive of their ideas, honey walnut shrimp like you can only find at your neighborhood Chinese joint, now reincarnated as a katsu sandwich? Smackin’.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914044\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13914044\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A sandwich with spam, American cheese, egg, and mac salad, being served on a food tray\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_islandboi2.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Island Boi features house-made spam, American cheese and mac salad on a sweet pineapple bun. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re looking for more than a flavorful sando, they don’t just stack bread at this roving pop-up; they also dish up savory plates and sugary desserts while providing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thatsmax.bigcartel.com/product/smax-chili-oil-og-not-spicy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">take-home sauces\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thatsmax.bigcartel.com/product/fooddontslap\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">merch\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They’ve experimented with an “Oko scallion pancake”—a Chinese-style green onion pancake topped with Japanese okonomiyaki ingredients such as cabbage, thick-cut bacon, mayonnaise and a fried egg.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">They’ve also messed around with pastrami fried rice—a New York City twist on the Chinese food staple, fueled by their summer trips to the East Coast after late-night DJ runs at the club. (In true Bay fashion, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/djjoog\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">DJ Joog has a music side hustle\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.) Oh, and you can’t forget their orange creamsicle cookies to cap off your culinary nostalgia, like a late-night liquor store run.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Personally, I came for the “Animal Style” okonomiyaki—a version of the traditional Japanese hotcakes made with In-N-Out style dressing and bacon—and “The Island Boi”—a Hawaiian-inspired sandwich with house-made Spam, melted American cheese, egg and mac salad between chewy Hong Kong-style pineapple buns. I paired that with a sweet, sesame-filled ube mochi.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I slid by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thisisbabas.house/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Baba’s House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—a restaurant and specialty Asian snack store that doubles as one of SMAX’s temporary locations in the East Bay—where I had the privilege to taste these delicacies that the friends have been offering for the past five years.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How would you describe the food at SMAX?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">PARIS: We make specialty sandwiches that are rooted in the nostalgic dishes we really enjoy eating or that we grew up on. We talk about what we used to eat around the neighborhood, and that inspires us for our new dishes. We want to bring folks back to better times, when we were all younger, and we just package that all in our food with new ideas.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914045\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13914045\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two young men, Paris and Joog, stand in front of Baba's House Kitchen. Joog is wearing a shirt that says "food don't slap" while P is beside him, pointing at the shirt.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax_chefs.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joog (left) and P (right) stand in front of Baba’s House, rocking a “Food Don’t Slap” tee available on their site. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>With such a vast rotating menu, what’s been your most popular item?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">JOOG: We’re constantly shifting and experimenting. One [item] that got the best reviews is the “chopped cheese.” We plan to do that more regularly with rotating specials. It was a new way to present a New York burger that people in the Bay haven’t seen before. We love that sandwich.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: Chopped cheese, for sure. But all around, people have been fucking with all our crazy creations. People get excited for the new things we create. We like to get feedback and see how people interact with a new sandwich, but then we might only do it once and keep inventing new things.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How does your food reflect the Bay Area you grew up in?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: I’m from Vallejo. We always want it to be accessible to our folks, to serve the communities that we care about. That shows up in our food because we’re always looking to serve other creative independent people, anyone trying to just do something on their own. It’s hard to be financially independent in the Bay. But we want to provide that community and good feeling for folks without ever seeming exclusive. Whoever is doing their own hustle and doing their thing, that’s inspiring. Whether it’s art, music or organizing the community. Those are all valid and influence how we cook because those are the people we serve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: I’m from San Francisco. It’s just about looking out for others here. We might not be available for a pop up, but we’ll hook someone up with another person who is. Artists, vendors, DJs, it’s all a big community of putting each other on so we can all eat. Meeting new creatives and finding new products that local people sell is dope, and we strive to make those connections with others, especially since we’re all from the same soil here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s been the biggest challenge in being a pop-up over the past half decade?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: It’s hard to keep up with overhead and set our roots down as an independent business in the Bay. It’s almost impossible to buy a house or have property. We’ve always wanted a place to permanently be in, but it’s really hard to make that transition from mobile to having our own spot. We’ve been in this for so long and have hella experience, but [running a business like this] is a lot harder because we’re in the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: Our food menus are a form of creative expression. That’s why we switch it up. If you miss an item, you might not see it again. It’s our artistic expression in the moment. But we also realize we need to have some idea or main menu item that folks can hold on to as well. We need to provide consistent service but express ourselves as chefs. It’s a slower route for us to convince folks because we might switch it up. It’s a challenge, but people seem to enjoy trying our new stuff.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are your thoughts on the whole “slaps” versus “smacks” food war?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>P: Food definitely smacks. We wanted a name that was fun and encapsulated our energy and the vibe we were going for. What’s a word that people out here really connect with, especially with food? Smacks. The funny thing is that at first we were actually called “Slaps and Smacks” because we did events with DJs at first, too.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: We broke away from the “Slaps” part and stopped having DJs, and we just became “Smacks.” After a few years, we wanted our own personality to stand out so we changed the spelling to “SMAX.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">P: Now, we see more and more pop-ups with smacks in the name, so I’m kinda glad we pivoted and changed up the spelling early on.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">J: At the end of the day, we want our food to be rooted in the Bay. We can do that because we’re from out here, and we will always push that culture. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13914046\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13914046\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A cartoon mural of an Asian cat wearing a beanie, sunglasses, and holding chopsticks. The mural is located inside Baba's House Kitchen restuarant.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/smax-yee.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Illuminaries mural provides authentic Bay vibes inside Baba’s House. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Upcoming events: June 5 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/birdhausbeergarden/?hl=en\">Birdhaus Beer Garden\u003c/a>, 3821 Smith St., Union City from 11 am to 4 pm. June 12th at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/CdJT4stFZOB/\">Grow Off Market\u003c/a>, 400 Contra Costa St., Vallejo from 10 am to 4 pm. For future updates, follow \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/that_smax/?hl=en\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SMAX on Instagram\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Remembering Lucky Three Seven’s Jun Anabo, a ‘Pare’ for All of Oakland",
"headTitle": "Remembering Lucky Three Seven’s Jun Anabo, a ‘Pare’ for All of Oakland | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Artgel Fernando “Jun” Anabo Jr., the co-owner of one of Oakland’s most popular Filipino restaurants, was shot and killed last Wednesday night. He had been standing in front of the restaurant, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/luckythreeseven/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lucky Three Seven\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, with his 11-year-old son Kiah \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/crime/article/Co-owner-of-beloved-Oakland-Filipino-restaurant-17184101.php#photo-22498128\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when gunfire erupted\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Anabo died at Highland Hospital shortly thereafter. He was 39 years old.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born and raised in Oakland, Anabo was a sound engineer by trade before getting into the restaurant business. He loved to blast hip-hop and throw big, rollicking block parties in the stretch of East Oakland where the restaurant’s bright-red facade is located, at the corner of Fruitvale and Brookdale avenues. Friends and family members describe him as an incredible father and a neighborhood fixture—the type of person who was always willing to lend a hand, who always put his Oakland community and Filipino community first. You’d rarely ever see him without a big smile on his face.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/feeling-lucky-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reviewed\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Lucky Three Seven a few months after it opened in 2013, I wrote that Anabo had “an easy swagger and a street-hawker’s gift of gab.” Over the years, every time I called to ask about some news about the restaurant, Anabo would say at least two or three things that made me laugh out loud. “What are you, a \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">saint\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">?” he blurted one time, when I told him he shouldn’t try to give me free food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For several months, Anabo was mildly obsessed with the fact that he didn’t know what I looked like, since I’d only eaten at the restaurant as an anonymous critic. “Was that you? Were you just here?” he would text me out of the blue. “Did you just pick up an order of lumpia?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mark Legaspi, Anabo’s cousin and fellow Lucky Three Seven co-owner, says that was just the kind of energy that he always had. Anabo was the youngest in their group of cousins who grew up together, inseparable, in Oakland and Alameda. As a kid, he was a “jokester,” Legaspi says. A child of the ’80s, he loved \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Karate Kid\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> more than anything—he would dress up in a gi and imitate the karate moves from the movie.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Later, when they became partners at Lucky Three Seven, Legaspi was more involved with the cooking and recipe development, while Anabo handled the finances and business operations. The two would sometimes butt heads, as cousins do, but never argued for long. What Legaspi admired most was his cousin’s “crazy mind” and how well he worked with his hands—the way Anabo was able to MacGyver homemade designs for the restaurant, like its custom sound system, which he built using a car stereo. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913841\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial.jpg\" alt=\"A memorial to Jun Anaba, with flowers, candles and photos, set up outside Lucky Three Seven restaurant.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1152\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A memorial to Anabo set up in front of Lucky Three Seven. The restaurant was closed over the weekend as Anabo’s family grieved his death. \u003ccite>(Brian Watt)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Edward Wooley, a.k.a. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefsmelly/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Smelly\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, says he met Anabo about six years ago. After seeing each other on Instagram for years, as part of the broader Oakland food community, Wooley finally stopped by Lucky Three Seven to introduce himself. “They accepted me as a brother,” Wooley says of Anabo and his crew. Every time he came by to pick up food, Anabo and Legaspi would sit him down inside the restaurant’s cramped interior and offer him a shot of Hennessy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It would have been the same for me, if I’d ever had the chance to introduce myself to Anabo properly, Wooley tells me. He would have treated me like family too: “He’d say, ‘Come on in! Come have a shot! Do you want to smoke a blunt?’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He was just a nice, genuine dude,” Wooley says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anabo and Legaspi were also pioneers in the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/filipino-food-restaurants-hayward-union-city-16969628.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">East Bay’s now-thriving Filipino food scene\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The restaurant predated the current wave of trendy Filipino restaurants that have crossed over into mainstream popularity, bringing old-school “turo-turo” (or “point-point”) style steam table fare to a new audience. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Lucky Three Seven became an introduction for Oakland to real Filipino food,” says Filipino American rapper \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/its-easy-filipino-rapper-nump-enters-cannabis-delivery-service/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dustin “Nump” Perfetto\u003c/a>, a close friend of Anabo’s. “It’s a big staple in The Town, and it really helped other Filipino brands get exposure.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To this day, the restaurant is a place where purists can find a homey, genuinely pungent version of oxtail kare-kare, but it’s also where newcomers to the cuisine can enjoy crowd pleasers like the spicy G-Fire wings or the jumbo-size lumpia. It has always been a true neighborhood joint, beloved by folks of all different cultural backgrounds. (“I think Black people went there the most,” Wooley says.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 621px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913850\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/jun_son2.jpg\" alt=\"A boy holds a wad of cash underneath his chin while his father looks on to the side.\" width=\"621\" height=\"771\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/jun_son2.jpg 621w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/jun_son2-160x199.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 621px) 100vw, 621px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anabo and his son Kiah were like best friends. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of Mark Legaspi and family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Much of the reason why the restaurant has been embraced by so many different communities had to do with Anabo—gregarious, charismatic, a man of the people.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He was my ‘pare,’ my partner, a day-one supporter of anything I did,” says Perfetto, using the Tagalog term for a close male friend. “His love was so big; this boy had the biggest heart. I’ve never seen him not help another person.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s why Anabo came up with the idea of having an entire day every year, right before Christmas, when Lucky Three Seven would give away free food to the community. It’s why the restaurant routinely collected donations of school supplies to give away to Oakland youth. And, Perfetto says, it’s also why Anabo would talk all the time about how much he wanted Filipinos and Filipino Americans to come together—“uniting so the culture could blow the fuck up.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He was for the hood, for the homies,” Perfetto says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“’What does this business do for the people?’” says Evan Kidera, co-owner of the Filipino American fusion burrito spot \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.senorsisig.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Señor Sisig\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, who was close with both Anabo and Legaspi. “That’s how he lived his life.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Dustin 'Nump' Perfetto\"]“[Jun’s] love was so big … I’ve never seen him not help another person.”[/pullquote]Co Pollard, who runs a barbecue and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/east-oaklands-grilled-links-kings-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">grilled links business\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hotdogco/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hotdogco\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, first met Anabo as a Lucky Three Seven customer. Soon, the two began meeting up at the local Restaurant Depot to do their shopping, talk about how business was going and “swap education,” Pollard says. As it turns out, his son and Anabo’s son Kiah are good friends who have been in the same class since kindergarten—the running joke among the teachers was that if you had Lucky Three Seven and Hotdogco in the same class, you could expect to get the hook-up with delicious food every day.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Pollard, that’s the deepest tragedy of Anabo’s death. “I’m just torn up for his son,” Pollard says. “The bond they had, everybody could see it. He was his best friend.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Everyone who knew Anabo talked about how great of a dad he was, and how close the father and son were. “His son was with him, always. You knew his son was his world,” Señor Sisig’s Kidera says. “That’s the next level of heartbreak.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anabo’s family has set up a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/my-brothers-wish-for-kiah?utm_campaign=p_cp+share-sheet&utm_medium=copy_link_all&utm_source=customer\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">GoFundMe fundraiser\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to provide for Kiah’s future, setting a target goal of $20,000. As of this posting, it has received more than $95,000 in donations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13901303,arts_13900855,arts_13898436']For now, Lucky Three Seven has closed its doors as Anabo’s family members recover from the shock of his death. “We have entered a time of uncertainty,” the restaurant wrote in an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdu4mo2urNE/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram post\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “And although Jun would want us to keep it moving and keep it pushing … we find ourselves lost without him.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant remained closed over the weekend, with a small memorial for Anabo covered with flowers and candles set up in front. Meanwhile, the investigation into Anabo’s shooting is ongoing, and the Oakland Police Department has yet to make any arrests.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Legaspi, for his part, vows to honor his cousin’s memory by making Lucky Three Seven even bigger and better. “I’m going to make [Jun] proud,” Legaspi says. “I’m going to keep these doors open. And everything I make, it’s going to be with me and his son. So his son’s going to be taken care of.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Alan Chazaro contributed reporting for this story.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/luckythreeseven/\">Lucky Three Seven\u003c/a> is located at 2868 Fruitvale Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Artgel Fernando “Jun” Anabo Jr., the co-owner of one of Oakland’s most popular Filipino restaurants, was shot and killed last Wednesday night. He had been standing in front of the restaurant, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/luckythreeseven/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Lucky Three Seven\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, with his 11-year-old son Kiah \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/crime/article/Co-owner-of-beloved-Oakland-Filipino-restaurant-17184101.php#photo-22498128\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when gunfire erupted\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Anabo died at Highland Hospital shortly thereafter. He was 39 years old.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Born and raised in Oakland, Anabo was a sound engineer by trade before getting into the restaurant business. He loved to blast hip-hop and throw big, rollicking block parties in the stretch of East Oakland where the restaurant’s bright-red facade is located, at the corner of Fruitvale and Brookdale avenues. Friends and family members describe him as an incredible father and a neighborhood fixture—the type of person who was always willing to lend a hand, who always put his Oakland community and Filipino community first. You’d rarely ever see him without a big smile on his face.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When I \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/feeling-lucky-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">reviewed\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Lucky Three Seven a few months after it opened in 2013, I wrote that Anabo had “an easy swagger and a street-hawker’s gift of gab.” Over the years, every time I called to ask about some news about the restaurant, Anabo would say at least two or three things that made me laugh out loud. “What are you, a \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">saint\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">?” he blurted one time, when I told him he shouldn’t try to give me free food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For several months, Anabo was mildly obsessed with the fact that he didn’t know what I looked like, since I’d only eaten at the restaurant as an anonymous critic. “Was that you? Were you just here?” he would text me out of the blue. “Did you just pick up an order of lumpia?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mark Legaspi, Anabo’s cousin and fellow Lucky Three Seven co-owner, says that was just the kind of energy that he always had. Anabo was the youngest in their group of cousins who grew up together, inseparable, in Oakland and Alameda. As a kid, he was a “jokester,” Legaspi says. A child of the ’80s, he loved \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Karate Kid\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> more than anything—he would dress up in a gi and imitate the karate moves from the movie.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Later, when they became partners at Lucky Three Seven, Legaspi was more involved with the cooking and recipe development, while Anabo handled the finances and business operations. The two would sometimes butt heads, as cousins do, but never argued for long. What Legaspi admired most was his cousin’s “crazy mind” and how well he worked with his hands—the way Anabo was able to MacGyver homemade designs for the restaurant, like its custom sound system, which he built using a car stereo. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913841\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial.jpg\" alt=\"A memorial to Jun Anaba, with flowers, candles and photos, set up outside Lucky Three Seven restaurant.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1152\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-800x450.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-160x90.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-768x432.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/luckythreeseven_memorial-1920x1080.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A memorial to Anabo set up in front of Lucky Three Seven. The restaurant was closed over the weekend as Anabo’s family grieved his death. \u003ccite>(Brian Watt)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Edward Wooley, a.k.a. \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chefsmelly/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Smelly\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, says he met Anabo about six years ago. After seeing each other on Instagram for years, as part of the broader Oakland food community, Wooley finally stopped by Lucky Three Seven to introduce himself. “They accepted me as a brother,” Wooley says of Anabo and his crew. Every time he came by to pick up food, Anabo and Legaspi would sit him down inside the restaurant’s cramped interior and offer him a shot of Hennessy. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It would have been the same for me, if I’d ever had the chance to introduce myself to Anabo properly, Wooley tells me. He would have treated me like family too: “He’d say, ‘Come on in! Come have a shot! Do you want to smoke a blunt?’” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He was just a nice, genuine dude,” Wooley says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anabo and Legaspi were also pioneers in the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/filipino-food-restaurants-hayward-union-city-16969628.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">East Bay’s now-thriving Filipino food scene\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The restaurant predated the current wave of trendy Filipino restaurants that have crossed over into mainstream popularity, bringing old-school “turo-turo” (or “point-point”) style steam table fare to a new audience. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Lucky Three Seven became an introduction for Oakland to real Filipino food,” says Filipino American rapper \u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/its-easy-filipino-rapper-nump-enters-cannabis-delivery-service/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dustin “Nump” Perfetto\u003c/a>, a close friend of Anabo’s. “It’s a big staple in The Town, and it really helped other Filipino brands get exposure.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To this day, the restaurant is a place where purists can find a homey, genuinely pungent version of oxtail kare-kare, but it’s also where newcomers to the cuisine can enjoy crowd pleasers like the spicy G-Fire wings or the jumbo-size lumpia. It has always been a true neighborhood joint, beloved by folks of all different cultural backgrounds. (“I think Black people went there the most,” Wooley says.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913850\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 621px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913850\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/jun_son2.jpg\" alt=\"A boy holds a wad of cash underneath his chin while his father looks on to the side.\" width=\"621\" height=\"771\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/jun_son2.jpg 621w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/jun_son2-160x199.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 621px) 100vw, 621px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anabo and his son Kiah were like best friends. \u003ccite>(Photo courtesy of Mark Legaspi and family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Much of the reason why the restaurant has been embraced by so many different communities had to do with Anabo—gregarious, charismatic, a man of the people.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He was my ‘pare,’ my partner, a day-one supporter of anything I did,” says Perfetto, using the Tagalog term for a close male friend. “His love was so big; this boy had the biggest heart. I’ve never seen him not help another person.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s why Anabo came up with the idea of having an entire day every year, right before Christmas, when Lucky Three Seven would give away free food to the community. It’s why the restaurant routinely collected donations of school supplies to give away to Oakland youth. And, Perfetto says, it’s also why Anabo would talk all the time about how much he wanted Filipinos and Filipino Americans to come together—“uniting so the culture could blow the fuck up.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“He was for the hood, for the homies,” Perfetto says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“’What does this business do for the people?’” says Evan Kidera, co-owner of the Filipino American fusion burrito spot \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.senorsisig.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Señor Sisig\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, who was close with both Anabo and Legaspi. “That’s how he lived his life.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Co Pollard, who runs a barbecue and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/east-oaklands-grilled-links-kings-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">grilled links business\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hotdogco/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hotdogco\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, first met Anabo as a Lucky Three Seven customer. Soon, the two began meeting up at the local Restaurant Depot to do their shopping, talk about how business was going and “swap education,” Pollard says. As it turns out, his son and Anabo’s son Kiah are good friends who have been in the same class since kindergarten—the running joke among the teachers was that if you had Lucky Three Seven and Hotdogco in the same class, you could expect to get the hook-up with delicious food every day.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Pollard, that’s the deepest tragedy of Anabo’s death. “I’m just torn up for his son,” Pollard says. “The bond they had, everybody could see it. He was his best friend.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Everyone who knew Anabo talked about how great of a dad he was, and how close the father and son were. “His son was with him, always. You knew his son was his world,” Señor Sisig’s Kidera says. “That’s the next level of heartbreak.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Anabo’s family has set up a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.gofundme.com/f/my-brothers-wish-for-kiah?utm_campaign=p_cp+share-sheet&utm_medium=copy_link_all&utm_source=customer\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">GoFundMe fundraiser\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to provide for Kiah’s future, setting a target goal of $20,000. As of this posting, it has received more than $95,000 in donations.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>For now, Lucky Three Seven has closed its doors as Anabo’s family members recover from the shock of his death. “We have entered a time of uncertainty,” the restaurant wrote in an \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdu4mo2urNE/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instagram post\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. “And although Jun would want us to keep it moving and keep it pushing … we find ourselves lost without him.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The restaurant remained closed over the weekend, with a small memorial for Anabo covered with flowers and candles set up in front. Meanwhile, the investigation into Anabo’s shooting is ongoing, and the Oakland Police Department has yet to make any arrests.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Legaspi, for his part, vows to honor his cousin’s memory by making Lucky Three Seven even bigger and better. “I’m going to make [Jun] proud,” Legaspi says. “I’m going to keep these doors open. And everything I make, it’s going to be with me and his son. So his son’s going to be taken care of.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Alan Chazaro contributed reporting for this story.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/luckythreeseven/\">Lucky Three Seven\u003c/a> is located at 2868 Fruitvale Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"slug": "gumbo-tacos-and-oxtail-birria-feed-the-people-at-this-word-of-mouth-pop-up",
"title": "Gumbo Tacos and Oxtail Birria Feed the People at This Word-of-Mouth Pop-Up in Oakland",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a weekly conversation with Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary culture through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You won’t find any tasteless gimmicks at YumBobYum’s Taco Tuesday pop-up inside \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.smokinwoodsbbq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smokin Woods BBQ\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Telegraph Ave. in Oakland. Instead, you’ll find a neighborhood of folks converging over daps, playful shit talking and life-giving doses of habanero shrimp.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Each week, the Black-owned barbecue joint becomes a makeshift taqueria operated by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yumbobyum/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Bob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (real name Gibran Garcia) and his staff of helpers who feed Oaklanders plates of his Southern Creole, Jamaican and Mexican remixes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You’ll feel jubilant while filling up on jerk chicken tacos—made with harmonizing notes of smoked spices, sweet tang and Red Stripe-marinated pollo piled over two chewy tortillas. With a full bar available, you might order a round of dark Mexican lagers and a shot of tequila to go with it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the real showstopper is the gumbo taco, which Garcia prepares using his family’s Creole roux recipe and includes shrimp, crab, chicken, rice and a variety of slow-simmered veggies. It’s the only spot in the Bay where the magic of a gumbo pot gets strained then poured into an edible corn vessel.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s not this chef’s only claim to fame, though. The dude offers an array of other out-the-trunk specials, including his original oxtail birria tacos with consomé (made with whole oxtails that he chops and stews for 5 hours), elote popper fritters and fried cheese quesadillas that come with your choice of protein—I recommend the vegan soyrizo to balance out the carne you’ll be sure to consume your body weight in during your stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/Cah_RhsPjz2/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re unaccustomed to the combination of a grilled flour tortilla with an outer layer of crunchy double-fried cheese, the gooey warmth of additional melted cheeses inside and a dash of red salsa on top, it’s a peak nirvana I’d argue no traditional quesadilla can achieve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With enough clout to attract regular customers from as far away as Sacramento, this really is that spot—a word-of-mouth function with a lively sports bar atmosphere, where homies gather to hold space and joy despite all of life’s stressors.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And Chef Bob is just getting started. Eventually, he plans on selling his own gumbo seasoning, as well as a homestyle carne asada rub and an all-purpose spice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here’s what he has to say as an underground king of the Bay Area’s gumbo game.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How did you become interested in culinary arts?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I started off cooking at home with my mom. Food is big in my family, so my mom taught me her grandmother’s recipes from Louisiana—Creole style cooking. Later, my first actual job was at Cheeseboard Pizza Collective in North Berkeley. I got fired because I was a high school kid who didn’t take it seriously; a few no shows and no calls and they kicked me out. Then, about 8 years ago, I started cooking my family’s gumbo—a two-pot gumbo—during Christmas. That was a big step for me. I was in college studying film at the time, and food was in my life but not really a serious passion yet. I worked at Raleigh’s on Telegraph [for a few years] and learned a lot. Then, I worked at Smokin Woods BBQ. During the pandemic, I wanted to make more money so that’s when I started selling plates from my house and it kicked off. I still work [at Smokin Woods] as a line cook on Wednesdays through Fridays.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13913599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"The chef, Gibran Garcia, holds a food tray of freshly made gumbo tacos while standing in the kitchen, with two cooks behind him\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Bob holding his gumbo taco creation, with a side of roux. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where does your name Bob (or YumBobYum) come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s just a nickname I came up with out of nowhere in high school and it stuck. People just know me as that. When I got into cooking more seriously, I added the “chef” part because I felt like I deserved it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What inspired you to combine elements of Southern cuisine and Caribbean flavors with Mexican food here in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was born in Berkeley. My dad lived in Oakland. My mom’s side is Black Creole from Louisiana, where I learned how to cook. My dad’s side is Black and Filipino. My dad was actually born in the Philippines and moved here as a young kid. A lot of what I cook is what I like about the Bay’s food scene. It’s a giant melting pot. There are so many different mixtures of people from different backgrounds. You can Yelp any random country’s type of food and cuisine and find a place within a short drive of where you live. I like to do that. I always eat all types of food. Brazilian, Peruvian, Sengalese. That’s the Bay. I grew up going to taco trucks and taquerias. My dad used to live in the 40s in East Oakland, and my friend’s mom used to always make us Mexican food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13913201,arts_13896380']People assume [my food is] just gonna be the same Creole or Cajun twist, but it’s not just that. It’s my personal twist. I just like to make things that I enjoy eating myself. Like the oxtail, that’s Jamaican. I’ve never been to Jamaica, but I just love the food. I make things up. Anytime I debut a new menu item, it’s a great experience for me. I have a new menu item for this week, which is a chicken flauta. I usually get inspiration from elsewhere, but the flauta idea was just like, I haven’t had a flauta in hella long and we just fixed the deep fryer so I wanted to test that out. I had the ingredients and just made one from scratch on the spot. Usually what I end up doing if I have down time on my break is I’ll just make things for my coworkers or bartenders to try. I said fuck it, why not. I’ve never made a flauta.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where do you go to find good gumbo, oxtail and birria around here?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I don’t really eat gumbo unless it’s made at home with my family. There are so many things that can go wrong, and I’m accustomed to the way we make it. Oxtail in the Bay is one of the hardest things to find, too. It’s just hard to find a place where the consistency is solid. There’s a truck by Lake Merritt that serves oxtails. I forget the name, but it’s the best I’ve had out here over the years. As far as birria, my favorite place started as a pop-up called La Santa Torta in Jack London. It’s one of the few birrias where I don’t need the consomé. I could just straight-up eat the birria by itself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the struggles and challenges you’ve experienced in the Bay Area’s food industry as an independent foodmaker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A lot of places don’t have soul anymore in the Bay. With gentrification, it’s hard to keep authentic places going. Some pop-ups will lose their space because rent went up, or because people in the area didn’t catch on quick enough and their finances didn’t last. We lose out on some good food for that reason. That sucks to see.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CW6kcvqBkWe/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yumbobyum/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">YumBobYum’s\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> pop-up is every Tuesday, 5 to 10 pm at 4307 Telegraph Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "YumBobYum pops up at Temescal's Smokin Woods BBQ every Tuesday night.",
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"title": "Gumbo Tacos and Oxtail Birria Shine at YumBobYum's Oakland Pop-Up | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a weekly conversation with Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary culture through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You won’t find any tasteless gimmicks at YumBobYum’s Taco Tuesday pop-up inside \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.smokinwoodsbbq.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Smokin Woods BBQ\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Telegraph Ave. in Oakland. Instead, you’ll find a neighborhood of folks converging over daps, playful shit talking and life-giving doses of habanero shrimp.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Each week, the Black-owned barbecue joint becomes a makeshift taqueria operated by \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yumbobyum/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chef Bob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> (real name Gibran Garcia) and his staff of helpers who feed Oaklanders plates of his Southern Creole, Jamaican and Mexican remixes.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You’ll feel jubilant while filling up on jerk chicken tacos—made with harmonizing notes of smoked spices, sweet tang and Red Stripe-marinated pollo piled over two chewy tortillas. With a full bar available, you might order a round of dark Mexican lagers and a shot of tequila to go with it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the real showstopper is the gumbo taco, which Garcia prepares using his family’s Creole roux recipe and includes shrimp, crab, chicken, rice and a variety of slow-simmered veggies. It’s the only spot in the Bay where the magic of a gumbo pot gets strained then poured into an edible corn vessel.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s not this chef’s only claim to fame, though. The dude offers an array of other out-the-trunk specials, including his original oxtail birria tacos with consomé (made with whole oxtails that he chops and stews for 5 hours), elote popper fritters and fried cheese quesadillas that come with your choice of protein—I recommend the vegan soyrizo to balance out the carne you’ll be sure to consume your body weight in during your stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you’re unaccustomed to the combination of a grilled flour tortilla with an outer layer of crunchy double-fried cheese, the gooey warmth of additional melted cheeses inside and a dash of red salsa on top, it’s a peak nirvana I’d argue no traditional quesadilla can achieve.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With enough clout to attract regular customers from as far away as Sacramento, this really is that spot—a word-of-mouth function with a lively sports bar atmosphere, where homies gather to hold space and joy despite all of life’s stressors.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And Chef Bob is just getting started. Eventually, he plans on selling his own gumbo seasoning, as well as a homestyle carne asada rub and an all-purpose spice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Here’s what he has to say as an underground king of the Bay Area’s gumbo game.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">********\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: How did you become interested in culinary arts?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I started off cooking at home with my mom. Food is big in my family, so my mom taught me her grandmother’s recipes from Louisiana—Creole style cooking. Later, my first actual job was at Cheeseboard Pizza Collective in North Berkeley. I got fired because I was a high school kid who didn’t take it seriously; a few no shows and no calls and they kicked me out. Then, about 8 years ago, I started cooking my family’s gumbo—a two-pot gumbo—during Christmas. That was a big step for me. I was in college studying film at the time, and food was in my life but not really a serious passion yet. I worked at Raleigh’s on Telegraph [for a few years] and learned a lot. Then, I worked at Smokin Woods BBQ. During the pandemic, I wanted to make more money so that’s when I started selling plates from my house and it kicked off. I still work [at Smokin Woods] as a line cook on Wednesdays through Fridays.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913599\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13913599\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"The chef, Gibran Garcia, holds a food tray of freshly made gumbo tacos while standing in the kitchen, with two cooks behind him\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/chefbob_bob-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Bob holding his gumbo taco creation, with a side of roux. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where does your name Bob (or YumBobYum) come from?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That’s just a nickname I came up with out of nowhere in high school and it stuck. People just know me as that. When I got into cooking more seriously, I added the “chef” part because I felt like I deserved it.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What inspired you to combine elements of Southern cuisine and Caribbean flavors with Mexican food here in the Bay?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I was born in Berkeley. My dad lived in Oakland. My mom’s side is Black Creole from Louisiana, where I learned how to cook. My dad’s side is Black and Filipino. My dad was actually born in the Philippines and moved here as a young kid. A lot of what I cook is what I like about the Bay’s food scene. It’s a giant melting pot. There are so many different mixtures of people from different backgrounds. You can Yelp any random country’s type of food and cuisine and find a place within a short drive of where you live. I like to do that. I always eat all types of food. Brazilian, Peruvian, Sengalese. That’s the Bay. I grew up going to taco trucks and taquerias. My dad used to live in the 40s in East Oakland, and my friend’s mom used to always make us Mexican food. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>People assume [my food is] just gonna be the same Creole or Cajun twist, but it’s not just that. It’s my personal twist. I just like to make things that I enjoy eating myself. Like the oxtail, that’s Jamaican. I’ve never been to Jamaica, but I just love the food. I make things up. Anytime I debut a new menu item, it’s a great experience for me. I have a new menu item for this week, which is a chicken flauta. I usually get inspiration from elsewhere, but the flauta idea was just like, I haven’t had a flauta in hella long and we just fixed the deep fryer so I wanted to test that out. I had the ingredients and just made one from scratch on the spot. Usually what I end up doing if I have down time on my break is I’ll just make things for my coworkers or bartenders to try. I said fuck it, why not. I’ve never made a flauta.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Where do you go to find good gumbo, oxtail and birria around here?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I don’t really eat gumbo unless it’s made at home with my family. There are so many things that can go wrong, and I’m accustomed to the way we make it. Oxtail in the Bay is one of the hardest things to find, too. It’s just hard to find a place where the consistency is solid. There’s a truck by Lake Merritt that serves oxtails. I forget the name, but it’s the best I’ve had out here over the years. As far as birria, my favorite place started as a pop-up called La Santa Torta in Jack London. It’s one of the few birrias where I don’t need the consomé. I could just straight-up eat the birria by itself. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What are the struggles and challenges you’ve experienced in the Bay Area’s food industry as an independent foodmaker?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A lot of places don’t have soul anymore in the Bay. With gentrification, it’s hard to keep authentic places going. Some pop-ups will lose their space because rent went up, or because people in the area didn’t catch on quick enough and their finances didn’t last. We lose out on some good food for that reason. That sucks to see.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"title": "Bird Flu Causes Duck Shortage, Forces Beloved Chinatown Barbecue Shop to Shut Down",
"headTitle": "Bird Flu Causes Duck Shortage, Forces Beloved Chinatown Barbecue Shop to Shut Down | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It has been a hell of a couple years for \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hing_lung_co._sf/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hing Lung Meat Company\u003c/a>. A San Francisco Chinatown institution for more than 40 years, the family-run Cantonese barbecue shop sells some of the Bay Area’s most succulent roast duck, and its crispiest skinned roast pig. Like so many other \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2020/2/10/21131642/novel-coronavirus-american-chinese-restaurants-explained\">businesses in Chinatown\u003c/a>, the restaurant was \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hit especially hard\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> during the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the shop had weathered those challenges. It had pivoted toward an online-only, delivery-focused spin-off called \u003ca href=\"https://www.doordash.com/store/go-duck-yourself-crafted-by-hing-lung-company-san-francisco-898281/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Go Duck Yourself\u003c/a>, which was so successful that a sit-down restaurant version of it was \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/go_duck_yourself_sf/\">set to open in Bernal Heights\u003c/a>. Things were looking up. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, last week, co-owner Eric Cheung got a text from his duck supplier in Pennsylvania. Because of a deadly avian flu outbreak that’s hit a wide swath of the United States, the supplier explained, “they pretty much had to kill all their ducks,” Cheung says. At least in the immediate future, they won’t be able to provide Cheung with his regular shipment—and there’s a real possibility that he might have to go for months without any ducks at all. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a Chinese barbecue shop like Hing Lung, where the roast ducks account for about 50% of sales, the news was devastating. Cheung immediately made the decision to temporarily shut down the shop. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We got blindsided,” Cheung says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both Hing Lung and Go Duck Yourself have been closed since last Friday, May 13, and likely won’t reopen again until next week, by which time Cheung hopes to secure enough ducks to last a month. Normally, though, the restaurant goes through as many as 400 to 500 ducks in a given week. None of the other duck farms that Cheung contacted had nearly that much extra inventory that they could sell him. So, with the supply chain still uncertain, the restaurant’s ability to operate through the rest of the summer remains an open question.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913525\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913525\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of roast duck held in front of a family association building on Clay Street in San Francisco Chinatown.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The roast duck is by far the best-selling item at Hing Lung. \u003ccite>(Pete Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hing Lung’s temporary closure is one of the first prominent ways that the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/show/a-highly-contagious-strain-of-bird-flu-plagues-farmers-across-the-u-s\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">worst avian flu outbreak the U.S. has seen in years\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has impacted the Bay Area. Health officials have said that the flu poses a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.boisestatepublicradio.org/environment/2022-05-10/the-bird-flu-is-killing-more-wild-species-like-geese-ducks-hawks-and-eagles\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">very low risk of transmission to humans\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but its effect on both wild bird populations and the domestic poultry industry has been devastating. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For now, the shortage is most likely to impact the handful of Bay Area Chinese barbecue shops who, like Hing Lung, buy their ducks from Pennsylvania-based \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://tastyduck.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tasty Duck\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, favoring the extra-fatty Long Island Pekin Duck breed that the company raises. “For that traditional [Chinese] roast duck,” Tasty Duck’s Michael Jurgielewicz explains, “they want that extra fat layer to prevent the meat from drying out as the skin gets crisp.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Apart from Hing Lung, trendy Chinatown hotspot \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theempresssf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Empress by Boon\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> also buys duck from Tasty, though a spokesperson for the restaurant told KQED that it has managed to secure an alternative supplier for the time being. “While we do not serve duck on our current prix-fixe menu, we do receive requests for duck items occasionally,” the restaurant stated in an email.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Tasty Duck, the outbreak has been disastrous. Joey Jurgielewicz—Michael’s brother—explains that the avian flu is a seasonal virus that’s tied to wild bird migration patterns. There are cases every year, but he doesn’t recall an outbreak this bad since the 1980s. And this year’s strain appears to be particularly deadly, with a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.boisestatepublicradio.org/environment/2022-05-10/the-bird-flu-is-killing-more-wild-species-like-geese-ducks-hawks-and-eagles\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">near-100% mortality rate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in domestic poultry such as chickens or ducks.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Because the virus is airborne and the danger of farm-to-farm transmission is so severe, the USDA has instructed farms like Tasty Duck to euthanize every duck in the facility if even one bird tests positive. That’s what happened after the Jurgielewiczes detected their first case of the virus at the family’s main farm in Pennsylvania two weeks ago: They had to kill and dispose of every single duck—thousands of them in all—before shutting down the facility. “It was devastating,” Michael Jurgielewicz says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13912639,arts_13910234,arts_13910664']When the farm is cleared to reopen, the Jurgielewiczes will have to start from scratch with unhatched duck eggs, which take 28 days to hatch, and then another 40 to 50 days before the ducks are large enough to be sold. They’re hoping that their supply chain will resume some kind of normalcy by August or September. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Because the bird flu has not yet reached the West Coast, restaurants that serve ducks raised in California haven’t been affected by the shortage. In an email, Jennifer Reichardt of Petaluma-based \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://libertyducks.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Liberty Ducks\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—the best-known duck purveyor in the Bay Area—confirmed that there has been “no impact here” for now. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There is still the danger, of course, that the avian flu will eventually affect farms in California as well. A recent \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/california/article/Bird-flu-cases-are-creeping-west-Could-it-reach-17037536.php\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">report\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> noted that it has already reached as far west as Colorado this spring—and while the virus has not yet been detected in California, the state Department of Food and Agriculture is encouraging farms to implement “increased biosecurity procedures,” such as taking extra care to make sure their poultry doesn’t come in contact with wild birds.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1570px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913527\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee.jpg\" alt=\"A worker hangs roast pork to display in the window of a Cantonese barbecue shop.\" width=\"1570\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee.jpg 1570w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-800x510.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-1020x650.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-160x102.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-768x489.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-1536x978.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1570px) 100vw, 1570px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The little takeout shop sells all of the classic Cantonese barbecue items, including charsiu and roast pig in addition to the duck. \u003ccite>(Pete Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, the bird flu outbreak is a tough blow for Hing Lung, whose sales had only recently started to approach pre-pandemic levels. But Cheung says he has no choice but to ride out this current duck shortage. The brick-and-mortar version of Go Duck Yourself that was originally slated to debut this summer was likely going to get pushed back a few months anyway. “Maybe in a way, I’m dodging a bullet,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fortunately, Tasty Duck does operate another farm in Indiana that hasn’t been hit by the virus, and by sometime next week, Cheung is hoping to secure enough ducks from there to reopen Hing Lung for at least a month. After that, he says, if he isn’t able to find a reliable supply of ducks, the restaurant may have to shut down again for an extended period—or perhaps pivot to selling something else. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Roasting chickens would be the most obvious alternative. Of course the shop wouldn’t be the same without all those beautifully lacquered roast ducks hanging in the windows. “But hopefully customers will understand,” Cheung says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hing Lung Meat Company is located at 1261 Stockton St. in San Francisco Chinatown. The new Go Duck Yourself restaurant will open later this year at 439 Cortland Ave.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It has been a hell of a couple years for \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hing_lung_co._sf/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hing Lung Meat Company\u003c/a>. A San Francisco Chinatown institution for more than 40 years, the family-run Cantonese barbecue shop sells some of the Bay Area’s most succulent roast duck, and its crispiest skinned roast pig. Like so many other \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2020/2/10/21131642/novel-coronavirus-american-chinese-restaurants-explained\">businesses in Chinatown\u003c/a>, the restaurant was \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">hit especially hard\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> during the pandemic. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But the shop had weathered those challenges. It had pivoted toward an online-only, delivery-focused spin-off called \u003ca href=\"https://www.doordash.com/store/go-duck-yourself-crafted-by-hing-lung-company-san-francisco-898281/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Go Duck Yourself\u003c/a>, which was so successful that a sit-down restaurant version of it was \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/go_duck_yourself_sf/\">set to open in Bernal Heights\u003c/a>. Things were looking up. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Then, last week, co-owner Eric Cheung got a text from his duck supplier in Pennsylvania. Because of a deadly avian flu outbreak that’s hit a wide swath of the United States, the supplier explained, “they pretty much had to kill all their ducks,” Cheung says. At least in the immediate future, they won’t be able to provide Cheung with his regular shipment—and there’s a real possibility that he might have to go for months without any ducks at all. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a Chinese barbecue shop like Hing Lung, where the roast ducks account for about 50% of sales, the news was devastating. Cheung immediately made the decision to temporarily shut down the shop. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We got blindsided,” Cheung says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Both Hing Lung and Go Duck Yourself have been closed since last Friday, May 13, and likely won’t reopen again until next week, by which time Cheung hopes to secure enough ducks to last a month. Normally, though, the restaurant goes through as many as 400 to 500 ducks in a given week. None of the other duck farms that Cheung contacted had nearly that much extra inventory that they could sell him. So, with the supply chain still uncertain, the restaurant’s ability to operate through the rest of the summer remains an open question.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913525\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913525\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of roast duck held in front of a family association building on Clay Street in San Francisco Chinatown.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/Hing-Lung-roast-duck-petelee-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The roast duck is by far the best-selling item at Hing Lung. \u003ccite>(Pete Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hing Lung’s temporary closure is one of the first prominent ways that the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/show/a-highly-contagious-strain-of-bird-flu-plagues-farmers-across-the-u-s\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">worst avian flu outbreak the U.S. has seen in years\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has impacted the Bay Area. Health officials have said that the flu poses a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.boisestatepublicradio.org/environment/2022-05-10/the-bird-flu-is-killing-more-wild-species-like-geese-ducks-hawks-and-eagles\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">very low risk of transmission to humans\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, but its effect on both wild bird populations and the domestic poultry industry has been devastating. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For now, the shortage is most likely to impact the handful of Bay Area Chinese barbecue shops who, like Hing Lung, buy their ducks from Pennsylvania-based \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://tastyduck.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Tasty Duck\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, favoring the extra-fatty Long Island Pekin Duck breed that the company raises. “For that traditional [Chinese] roast duck,” Tasty Duck’s Michael Jurgielewicz explains, “they want that extra fat layer to prevent the meat from drying out as the skin gets crisp.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Apart from Hing Lung, trendy Chinatown hotspot \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theempresssf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Empress by Boon\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> also buys duck from Tasty, though a spokesperson for the restaurant told KQED that it has managed to secure an alternative supplier for the time being. “While we do not serve duck on our current prix-fixe menu, we do receive requests for duck items occasionally,” the restaurant stated in an email.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Tasty Duck, the outbreak has been disastrous. Joey Jurgielewicz—Michael’s brother—explains that the avian flu is a seasonal virus that’s tied to wild bird migration patterns. There are cases every year, but he doesn’t recall an outbreak this bad since the 1980s. And this year’s strain appears to be particularly deadly, with a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.boisestatepublicradio.org/environment/2022-05-10/the-bird-flu-is-killing-more-wild-species-like-geese-ducks-hawks-and-eagles\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">near-100% mortality rate\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in domestic poultry such as chickens or ducks.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Because the virus is airborne and the danger of farm-to-farm transmission is so severe, the USDA has instructed farms like Tasty Duck to euthanize every duck in the facility if even one bird tests positive. That’s what happened after the Jurgielewiczes detected their first case of the virus at the family’s main farm in Pennsylvania two weeks ago: They had to kill and dispose of every single duck—thousands of them in all—before shutting down the facility. “It was devastating,” Michael Jurgielewicz says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>When the farm is cleared to reopen, the Jurgielewiczes will have to start from scratch with unhatched duck eggs, which take 28 days to hatch, and then another 40 to 50 days before the ducks are large enough to be sold. They’re hoping that their supply chain will resume some kind of normalcy by August or September. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Because the bird flu has not yet reached the West Coast, restaurants that serve ducks raised in California haven’t been affected by the shortage. In an email, Jennifer Reichardt of Petaluma-based \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://libertyducks.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Liberty Ducks\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">—the best-known duck purveyor in the Bay Area—confirmed that there has been “no impact here” for now. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There is still the danger, of course, that the avian flu will eventually affect farms in California as well. A recent \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/california/article/Bird-flu-cases-are-creeping-west-Could-it-reach-17037536.php\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco Chronicle \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">report\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> noted that it has already reached as far west as Colorado this spring—and while the virus has not yet been detected in California, the state Department of Food and Agriculture is encouraging farms to implement “increased biosecurity procedures,” such as taking extra care to make sure their poultry doesn’t come in contact with wild birds.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913527\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1570px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913527\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee.jpg\" alt=\"A worker hangs roast pork to display in the window of a Cantonese barbecue shop.\" width=\"1570\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee.jpg 1570w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-800x510.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-1020x650.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-160x102.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-768x489.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/hing-lung-charsiu-petelee-1536x978.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1570px) 100vw, 1570px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The little takeout shop sells all of the classic Cantonese barbecue items, including charsiu and roast pig in addition to the duck. \u003ccite>(Pete Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, the bird flu outbreak is a tough blow for Hing Lung, whose sales had only recently started to approach pre-pandemic levels. But Cheung says he has no choice but to ride out this current duck shortage. The brick-and-mortar version of Go Duck Yourself that was originally slated to debut this summer was likely going to get pushed back a few months anyway. “Maybe in a way, I’m dodging a bullet,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Fortunately, Tasty Duck does operate another farm in Indiana that hasn’t been hit by the virus, and by sometime next week, Cheung is hoping to secure enough ducks from there to reopen Hing Lung for at least a month. After that, he says, if he isn’t able to find a reliable supply of ducks, the restaurant may have to shut down again for an extended period—or perhaps pivot to selling something else. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Roasting chickens would be the most obvious alternative. Of course the shop wouldn’t be the same without all those beautifully lacquered roast ducks hanging in the windows. “But hopefully customers will understand,” Cheung says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hing Lung Meat Company is located at 1261 Stockton St. in San Francisco Chinatown. The new Go Duck Yourself restaurant will open later this year at 439 Cortland Ave.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "This Richmond Food Cart Offers an Education in Guatemalan Tamales",
"headTitle": "This Richmond Food Cart Offers an Education in Guatemalan Tamales | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You could spend a week eating your way through the Bay Area tamale-verse and never encounter the same style twice. I love them all—the jiggly Salvadoran tamales \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/hidden-in-plain-sight-norma-meat-amp-deli-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sold in the back of a liquor store\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the sweet dessert tamales flecked with pineapple bits, the mole-drenched \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/of-masa-and-mole-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oaxacan ones\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> wrapped in banana leaves. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But until I stumbled on Richmond’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/antojitosguatemaltecoss/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Antojitos Guatemaltecos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, I’d never once eaten a Guatemalan rice\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tamal. I’d never even heard of them. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As it turns out, rice tamales are \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">delicious\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in addition to being a well-loved regional specialty. And they’re just one of a slew of tasty, hard-to-find dishes customers can score at this little Guatemalan food cart, which posts up outside a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/panaderia-guatemalteca-richmond\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">23rd Street panadería\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> five nights a week. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13896069,arts_13912706,arts_13910664']Yury Aguilar, who runs the business along with her husband Carlos Pool and sisters Marleny Aguilar and Yasmin Edelma, says tamales are by far the cart’s most popular items— and not just the ones made with rice. The rice tamales are a highly regionalized specialty even within Guatemala. But in Aguilar’s hometown of San Marcos, in the western part of the country, people eat more rice tamales than the more typical versions made with corn masa, she explains.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For those, the “masa” is made by adding water to ground-up rice to form a dough, which gets wrapped inside banana leaves and steamed with other ingredients typical of Central American–style tamales—red peppers and exceptionally tender chicken, in this case. For me, the rice tamale reminded me of nothing more than zongzi, the leaf-wrapped rice bundles of the Chinese food world—a little bit soupier and less sticky, but with the same nostalgic and deeply comforting savoriness. Drizzled with a little bit of the cart’s housemade hot sauce, it was exceptional. (Of course I’m hardly the first person to draw the connection between tamales and zongzi, or “joong” in Cantonese. Oakland Chinatown shopkeepers, for instance, have long marketed zongzi as “Chinese tamales.”)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aguilar says not all of her customers know about the rice tamales, but they’ve garnered their own fanbase. She has one Filipino customer who even calls ahead to order a sweet version that Antojitos Guatemaltecos can make by request. She’ll add some sugar to the rice dough and fill it with a sweet chocolate-based mole and a hard-boiled egg.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913370\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913370\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The menu signboard in front a food cart: Items include chuchitos, atol de elote, tamales tradicionales and tamales de arroz.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Antojitos Guatemaltecos food cart offers at least five different kinds of tamales at any given time. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, the cart offers a whole education in Guatemalan tamales, even apart from the ones made with rice. Its traditional corn-based tamales are done in the Central American style, in which the masa gets steamed twice so that the texture is extra jiggly and almost pudding-like in its consistency. It sells chuchitos, miniature corn husk–wrapped tamales that are denser and more similar to the Mexican style, served topped with cheese and salsa. And it also sells pachas, or potato tamales—that is, tamales whose masa base is made with mashed potatoes—which Aguilar says are very common throughout Guatemala.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cart’s other most popular item is atol de elote, a hot corn beverage that Guatemalans like to drink when they’re eating tamales, Aguilar explains. But really, everything on the menu is exceptional—especially the eggy and wonderfully savory chiles relleños, and the tender chicken leg stewed in light, mole-like sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aguilar says when she and her husband started the business in 2015, they just sold tamales from the back of their car. They’ve operated Antojitos Guatemaltecos as a licensed street cart since 2019, though of course COVID put a damper on business for a while. But the tamales have cultivated a big local following over the years, not just among Guatemalan customers but also Mexicans, Salvadorans and Hondurans. So, Aguilar says, they feel ready to take the next step toward their ultimate dream: opening a brick-and-mortar Guatemalan restaurant somewhere in Richmond or San Pablo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Maybe Guatemalan people are shy to open a place, but our food is also good,” Aguilar says. “We had a couple chances before. This time we’re ready.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/antojitosguatemaltecoss/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Antojitos Guatemaltecos\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open 3–10 pm every day except Tuesdays and Sundays. On Saturdays, they open early, at 10 or 11 am. The cart is located outside Panadería Guatemalteca at 653 23rd St. in Richmond. Cash only.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You could spend a week eating your way through the Bay Area tamale-verse and never encounter the same style twice. I love them all—the jiggly Salvadoran tamales \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/hidden-in-plain-sight-norma-meat-amp-deli-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">sold in the back of a liquor store\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the sweet dessert tamales flecked with pineapple bits, the mole-drenched \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://eastbayexpress.com/of-masa-and-mole-1/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oaxacan ones\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> wrapped in banana leaves. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But until I stumbled on Richmond’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/antojitosguatemaltecoss/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Antojitos Guatemaltecos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, I’d never once eaten a Guatemalan rice\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tamal. I’d never even heard of them. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As it turns out, rice tamales are \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">delicious\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, in addition to being a well-loved regional specialty. And they’re just one of a slew of tasty, hard-to-find dishes customers can score at this little Guatemalan food cart, which posts up outside a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/panaderia-guatemalteca-richmond\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">23rd Street panadería\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> five nights a week. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Yury Aguilar, who runs the business along with her husband Carlos Pool and sisters Marleny Aguilar and Yasmin Edelma, says tamales are by far the cart’s most popular items— and not just the ones made with rice. The rice tamales are a highly regionalized specialty even within Guatemala. But in Aguilar’s hometown of San Marcos, in the western part of the country, people eat more rice tamales than the more typical versions made with corn masa, she explains.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For those, the “masa” is made by adding water to ground-up rice to form a dough, which gets wrapped inside banana leaves and steamed with other ingredients typical of Central American–style tamales—red peppers and exceptionally tender chicken, in this case. For me, the rice tamale reminded me of nothing more than zongzi, the leaf-wrapped rice bundles of the Chinese food world—a little bit soupier and less sticky, but with the same nostalgic and deeply comforting savoriness. Drizzled with a little bit of the cart’s housemade hot sauce, it was exceptional. (Of course I’m hardly the first person to draw the connection between tamales and zongzi, or “joong” in Cantonese. Oakland Chinatown shopkeepers, for instance, have long marketed zongzi as “Chinese tamales.”)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aguilar says not all of her customers know about the rice tamales, but they’ve garnered their own fanbase. She has one Filipino customer who even calls ahead to order a sweet version that Antojitos Guatemaltecos can make by request. She’ll add some sugar to the rice dough and fill it with a sweet chocolate-based mole and a hard-boiled egg.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913370\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913370\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"The menu signboard in front a food cart: Items include chuchitos, atol de elote, tamales tradicionales and tamales de arroz.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-scaled.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-160x213.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/guatemaltecos_sign-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Antojitos Guatemaltecos food cart offers at least five different kinds of tamales at any given time. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In fact, the cart offers a whole education in Guatemalan tamales, even apart from the ones made with rice. Its traditional corn-based tamales are done in the Central American style, in which the masa gets steamed twice so that the texture is extra jiggly and almost pudding-like in its consistency. It sells chuchitos, miniature corn husk–wrapped tamales that are denser and more similar to the Mexican style, served topped with cheese and salsa. And it also sells pachas, or potato tamales—that is, tamales whose masa base is made with mashed potatoes—which Aguilar says are very common throughout Guatemala.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The cart’s other most popular item is atol de elote, a hot corn beverage that Guatemalans like to drink when they’re eating tamales, Aguilar explains. But really, everything on the menu is exceptional—especially the eggy and wonderfully savory chiles relleños, and the tender chicken leg stewed in light, mole-like sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aguilar says when she and her husband started the business in 2015, they just sold tamales from the back of their car. They’ve operated Antojitos Guatemaltecos as a licensed street cart since 2019, though of course COVID put a damper on business for a while. But the tamales have cultivated a big local following over the years, not just among Guatemalan customers but also Mexicans, Salvadorans and Hondurans. So, Aguilar says, they feel ready to take the next step toward their ultimate dream: opening a brick-and-mortar Guatemalan restaurant somewhere in Richmond or San Pablo.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Maybe Guatemalan people are shy to open a place, but our food is also good,” Aguilar says. “We had a couple chances before. This time we’re ready.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/antojitosguatemaltecoss/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Antojitos Guatemaltecos\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is open 3–10 pm every day except Tuesdays and Sundays. On Saturdays, they open early, at 10 or 11 am. The cart is located outside Panadería Guatemalteca at 653 23rd St. in Richmond. Cash only.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "Hyphy Meets Hot Wings at Sideshow Kitchen",
"headTitle": "Hyphy Meets Hot Wings at Sideshow Kitchen | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When you order at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sideshowkitchen.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sideshow Kitchen’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street-facing window in North Oakland, you might hear Larry June’s “Smoothies in 1991” lazily playing in the background. Above the counter, a collection of old-school Mac Dre, Spice 1 and Tupac albums overlook the cash register like a holy trinity of Bay Area saints. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The workers move rhythmically—cranking out burgers, frying fish and tossing fries—while the owner, Mike Beatrice, pours draft beers and takes orders with the collected coolness of someone accustomed to swinging a V8-powered machine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At this neighborhood kickback, you can grub on the popular Sideshow Burger, a double beef patty with all the fixings. Or you can mess around and get the 12-piece Hyphy Hot Wings, which come dolloped with their housemade “Hyphy Hot Sauce” of mild peppers, smoky Jamaican jerk seasoning and other spices. Or you can try my personal favorite, the Hella Hyphy Fried Chicken Sandwich—a heavenly stack of fried chicken, jalapeño-infused coleslaw, honey mustard and, of course, more of that saucy Hyphyness, all piled on a soft La Jolla bun. You’ll definitely want a side of the paprika-dusted crinkle-cut garlic fries, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">No matter what you decide, the choices at Sideshow are aplenty (yup), so it’s impossible to leave the place feeling empty-stomached (nope).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[pullquote size=\"large\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Mike Beatrice\"]“I want to preserve that [spirit]. This is for the community, the people who deserve it and have been here for a long time. This is for the real Town people.”[/pullquote]The restaurant’s hyphy-era vibes are unmistakable, and they’re as flavorfully sprinkled with Bay Area culture as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">E-40’s ice cream\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> brand—a dessert option that Beatrice hopes to offer soon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Recently celebrating its five-year anniversary—and having just signed a new five-year lease—the spot feels authentic and lively, with an aim to not only serve smackin’ plates, but to represent the local community.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913216\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13913216\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Man holds up two peace signs while standing in front of his restaurant named Sideshow, with hand painted sign behind him that says hot food\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sideshow Kitchen founder Mike Beatrice has been a North Oakland resident and business owner for the past 15 years. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Over the years, more commercialized shit has popped up around here and Emeryville, and it loses the Bay Area spirit,” says Beatrice, who runs the restaurant with his wife Salma and best friend Jose Luis Leon, who functions as the head chef. “I want to preserve that [spirit]. This is for the community, the people who deserve it and have been here for a long time. This is for the real Town people.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I sat down with Beatrice to get a sense of what makes his restaurant worth a trip to the North Pole.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: Tell us about yourself and your history with food. What inspired you to get into the culinary arts? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I grew up with my pops in the restaurant business. I’m originally from the East Coast, and my first experience was working in [my dad’s] restaurant when I would get in trouble at school. I’d get suspended and have to wash dishes and do grunt work, cleaning bathrooms. The chef would bring his son, too, and I saw that that kid got paid, but since I was on punishment, I wasn’t getting paid. So I wanted to get money and started taking it more seriously. After that, I always kept a restaurant job growing up. I’ve also worked night clubs, bartending, fine dining. From 2016 to 2020, I ran \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/oakalndhomegrown/\">Homegrown Oakland\u003c/a> as a smoothie and salad shop. I decided to close that during the pandemic and focus on Sideshow. Now I’m here everyday.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area? When did you arrive here, and what’s your favorite thing about the Bay’s culinary scene?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I moved to San Francisco from East Boston when I was younger. Fifteen years ago I settled into this specific neighborhood. I live right down the street and have been here for hella long. At first I felt a little lost in California coming from the East Coast. But as soon as I pulled up in Oakland, I felt like it was home. It felt like what I grew up around—independent people just hustling and grinding. It felt natural to me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In terms of food, the Bay has lots of folks who aren’t classically trained chefs, and I appreciate that. That creates a rawness from the heart and soul. The people here are cooking what they grew up with, maybe something their grandmothers would cook. It’s also just so diverse and competitive. There are lots of people making burgers and fried chicken everywhere, so you have to figure out what sets you apart. It’s a hybridization of many things.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CHHb-VjgVxQ/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>As an Italian American from the East Coast, has anyone ever questioned the name choice behind your restaurant?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To keep it simple, no. I lived and breathed all the culture I’m portraying. I grew up driving a [Mustang] 5.0 and my brother had a [Camaro] Z-28. We rode motorcycles and dirt bikes. We had a studio growing up and used to rap, and I always listened to Bay music. It’s a natural representation of myself. Even though I moved here from the East Coast as a teen, I still grew up in this lifestyle and would always go to sideshows, drove the cars, was at the events. To me, this is normal life. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While we were [building out the restaurant], people were always slapping music outside, and we were thinking of a name at the time, and since there was basically just a sideshow happening right there in front of us, the idea was super organic and natural and on the fly. We rolled with it, and we haven’t stopped. I know it’s a bold name, but ever since we started out, local people pull up on us to see if we check out. Sideshow is a neighborhood spot. We’re preserving the culture, not erasing it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What has been a highlight for you during your time at Sideshow Kitchen?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Just knowing that we made it through COVID and made it even better than before. We went from nothing happening at all to finding a way to build it back ten times stronger. We built a camaraderie and trust that helped push our business forward. We had a no-quit attitude. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is the beginning of year six now. It was an interesting road because we built this place with our bare hands, me and my brother. My brother has a business called Sons of Salvage. We demolitioned this place together and rebuilt it from scratch. The tables, the walls—we made all that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913217\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13913217\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two music album covers are displayed on a shelf inside the restaurant. One album is of Spice 1, the other is of Mac Dre.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Area hip-hop legends, Spice 1 and Mac Dre, overlook the restaurant. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What Bay Area rappers do you listen to who have influenced your culinary craft?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID='arts_13907726,arts_13908052']Shit. Mac Dre, J Stalin, Yukmouth, Fab, Keak da Sneak, those are the pillars. Nowadays, I like Offset Jim [now 22nd Jim], AllBlack, G Pop. G is a local dude, lives right in the neighborhood. I listen to him a lot. Depending on my mood I might be slapping Luniz or Berner. Also Pac, let’s claim that. And The Jacka, RIP. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I like the vision and hustle of all those artists. I love watching anyone go from something small to something huge. That’s why I always fuck with Bay Area rap. I grew up in the East, and it’s more industry—more rappers are signed to major record labels. But in the Bay, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">people are independent and selling out the trunk\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Everyone bites that style now, but it started out here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oh, and Larry June. I fuck with Larry June.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913225\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13913225 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a friend chicken sandwich with crinkle-cut fries and ketchup, served on a metal tray, with a beer on the table\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Hyphy Fried Chicken Sandwich with a hazy IPA and a side of fries.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sideshowkitchen.com/\">Sideshow Kitchen\u003c/a> is open Tuesday–Saturday, noon to 6 pm (Thursday through Saturday, they close at 7 pm) at 942 Stanford Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>¡Hella Hungry! is a column about Bay Area foodmakers, exploring the region’s culinary cultures through the mouth of a first-generation local.\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">When you order at \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sideshowkitchen.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sideshow Kitchen’s\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street-facing window in North Oakland, you might hear Larry June’s “Smoothies in 1991” lazily playing in the background. Above the counter, a collection of old-school Mac Dre, Spice 1 and Tupac albums overlook the cash register like a holy trinity of Bay Area saints. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The workers move rhythmically—cranking out burgers, frying fish and tossing fries—while the owner, Mike Beatrice, pours draft beers and takes orders with the collected coolness of someone accustomed to swinging a V8-powered machine.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At this neighborhood kickback, you can grub on the popular Sideshow Burger, a double beef patty with all the fixings. Or you can mess around and get the 12-piece Hyphy Hot Wings, which come dolloped with their housemade “Hyphy Hot Sauce” of mild peppers, smoky Jamaican jerk seasoning and other spices. Or you can try my personal favorite, the Hella Hyphy Fried Chicken Sandwich—a heavenly stack of fried chicken, jalapeño-infused coleslaw, honey mustard and, of course, more of that saucy Hyphyness, all piled on a soft La Jolla bun. You’ll definitely want a side of the paprika-dusted crinkle-cut garlic fries, too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">No matter what you decide, the choices at Sideshow are aplenty (yup), so it’s impossible to leave the place feeling empty-stomached (nope).\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "“I want to preserve that [spirit]. This is for the community, the people who deserve it and have been here for a long time. This is for the real Town people.”",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The restaurant’s hyphy-era vibes are unmistakable, and they’re as flavorfully sprinkled with Bay Area culture as \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">E-40’s ice cream\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> brand—a dessert option that Beatrice hopes to offer soon. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Recently celebrating its five-year anniversary—and having just signed a new five-year lease—the spot feels authentic and lively, with an aim to not only serve smackin’ plates, but to represent the local community.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913216\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13913216\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Man holds up two peace signs while standing in front of his restaurant named Sideshow, with hand painted sign behind him that says hot food\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_Mike.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sideshow Kitchen founder Mike Beatrice has been a North Oakland resident and business owner for the past 15 years. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Over the years, more commercialized shit has popped up around here and Emeryville, and it loses the Bay Area spirit,” says Beatrice, who runs the restaurant with his wife Salma and best friend Jose Luis Leon, who functions as the head chef. “I want to preserve that [spirit]. This is for the community, the people who deserve it and have been here for a long time. This is for the real Town people.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I sat down with Beatrice to get a sense of what makes his restaurant worth a trip to the North Pole.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This interview has been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp style=\"text-align: center\">********\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>KQED: Tell us about yourself and your history with food. What inspired you to get into the culinary arts? \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I grew up with my pops in the restaurant business. I’m originally from the East Coast, and my first experience was working in [my dad’s] restaurant when I would get in trouble at school. I’d get suspended and have to wash dishes and do grunt work, cleaning bathrooms. The chef would bring his son, too, and I saw that that kid got paid, but since I was on punishment, I wasn’t getting paid. So I wanted to get money and started taking it more seriously. After that, I always kept a restaurant job growing up. I’ve also worked night clubs, bartending, fine dining. From 2016 to 2020, I ran \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/oakalndhomegrown/\">Homegrown Oakland\u003c/a> as a smoothie and salad shop. I decided to close that during the pandemic and focus on Sideshow. Now I’m here everyday.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What’s your connection to the Bay Area? When did you arrive here, and what’s your favorite thing about the Bay’s culinary scene?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I moved to San Francisco from East Boston when I was younger. Fifteen years ago I settled into this specific neighborhood. I live right down the street and have been here for hella long. At first I felt a little lost in California coming from the East Coast. But as soon as I pulled up in Oakland, I felt like it was home. It felt like what I grew up around—independent people just hustling and grinding. It felt natural to me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In terms of food, the Bay has lots of folks who aren’t classically trained chefs, and I appreciate that. That creates a rawness from the heart and soul. The people here are cooking what they grew up with, maybe something their grandmothers would cook. It’s also just so diverse and competitive. There are lots of people making burgers and fried chicken everywhere, so you have to figure out what sets you apart. It’s a hybridization of many things.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cb>As an Italian American from the East Coast, has anyone ever questioned the name choice behind your restaurant?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">To keep it simple, no. I lived and breathed all the culture I’m portraying. I grew up driving a [Mustang] 5.0 and my brother had a [Camaro] Z-28. We rode motorcycles and dirt bikes. We had a studio growing up and used to rap, and I always listened to Bay music. It’s a natural representation of myself. Even though I moved here from the East Coast as a teen, I still grew up in this lifestyle and would always go to sideshows, drove the cars, was at the events. To me, this is normal life. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While we were [building out the restaurant], people were always slapping music outside, and we were thinking of a name at the time, and since there was basically just a sideshow happening right there in front of us, the idea was super organic and natural and on the fly. We rolled with it, and we haven’t stopped. I know it’s a bold name, but ever since we started out, local people pull up on us to see if we check out. Sideshow is a neighborhood spot. We’re preserving the culture, not erasing it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What has been a highlight for you during your time at Sideshow Kitchen?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Just knowing that we made it through COVID and made it even better than before. We went from nothing happening at all to finding a way to build it back ten times stronger. We built a camaraderie and trust that helped push our business forward. We had a no-quit attitude. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This is the beginning of year six now. It was an interesting road because we built this place with our bare hands, me and my brother. My brother has a business called Sons of Salvage. We demolitioned this place together and rebuilt it from scratch. The tables, the walls—we made all that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913217\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13913217\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two music album covers are displayed on a shelf inside the restaurant. One album is of Spice 1, the other is of Mac Dre.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/SideshowKitchen_spice1.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Area hip-hop legends, Spice 1 and Mac Dre, overlook the restaurant. \u003ccite>(Alan Chazaro)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What Bay Area rappers do you listen to who have influenced your culinary craft?\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Shit. Mac Dre, J Stalin, Yukmouth, Fab, Keak da Sneak, those are the pillars. Nowadays, I like Offset Jim [now 22nd Jim], AllBlack, G Pop. G is a local dude, lives right in the neighborhood. I listen to him a lot. Depending on my mood I might be slapping Luniz or Berner. Also Pac, let’s claim that. And The Jacka, RIP. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I like the vision and hustle of all those artists. I love watching anyone go from something small to something huge. That’s why I always fuck with Bay Area rap. I grew up in the East, and it’s more industry—more rappers are signed to major record labels. But in the Bay, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13907726/e-40-goon-with-the-spoon-bay-area-rappers-food-entrepreneurs-hustle\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">people are independent and selling out the trunk\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Everyone bites that style now, but it started out here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Oh, and Larry June. I fuck with Larry June.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913225\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-13913225 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"a friend chicken sandwich with crinkle-cut fries and ketchup, served on a metal tray, with a beer on the table\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-768x512.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/sideshowkitchen_chickensandwich.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Hyphy Fried Chicken Sandwich with a hazy IPA and a side of fries.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sideshowkitchen.com/\">Sideshow Kitchen\u003c/a> is open Tuesday–Saturday, noon to 6 pm (Thursday through Saturday, they close at 7 pm) at 942 Stanford Ave. in Oakland.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"title": "At the World’s Only Ohlone Restaurant, Even the Trees Will Sing in Chochenyo",
"headTitle": "At the World’s Only Ohlone Restaurant, Even the Trees Will Sing in Chochenyo | KQED",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the better part of the pandemic, Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino didn’t even think about reopening \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The world’s only Ohlone restaurant never did outdoor dining. It only started offering a tiny number of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">take-home meal kits\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> many months after takeout had become the new normal—and just for one Sunday a month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Medina and Trevino found an even higher calling: While the restaurant hibernated, they huddled close within their own community and dedicated themselves to hosting weekly language classes over Zoom, teaching young children and 90-year-old elders how to speak Chochenyo and Rumsen Ohlone.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, all that cultural work is paying dividends for the restaurant, too. When Cafe Ohlone opens next month at its new location at UC Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hearst Museum of Anthropology\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, even the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">trees \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">will speak and sing in Chochenyo—trees hooked up to a state-of-the-art sound system playing recordings of those same Chochenyo students, to be specific. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The singing trees are just one of the showpieces in Cafe Ohlone’s new outdoor dining room, which is finally gearing up to open after the restaurant \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">lost its original, back-of-a-bookstore Berkeley location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> fairly early on during shelter in place. According to Medina, every aspect of the new restaurant is meant to evoke “a beautiful reality that looks like an Ohlone village when you walk in.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913051\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913051\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A sampler plate of Ohlone food includes a small dish of acorn soup, fried sea lettuce and a skewer of venison backstrap.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sampling of Cafe Ohlone’s food given out at an April 23 preview event. Small bites included fried sea lettuce, roasted fiddlehead ferns, venison backstrap and cold black oak acorn soup for dipping. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re calling it a love song to Ohlone culture,” Medina told guests at an April preview event held at the restaurant, “because every element of the space has been designed to be specific to our beautiful Ohlone culture—to our language, to our plants, to our foods, to our values, to our aesthetics.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID=arts_13899524,arts_13913184]Even after Cafe Ohlone lost its home during the early months of the pandemic, Medina and Trevino were always insistent that the restaurant would return bigger and better than ever. But the two felt conflicted at first when the Hearst Museum offered them the opportunity to reopen. After all, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13899524/cafe-ohlone-restaurant-hearst-museum-berkeley-opening\">the museum’s relationship with the Ohlones had been deeply fraught\u003c/a>: Alfred Kroeber, the museum’s longtime director, was the one who was largely responsible for the Ohlones losing their federal recognition when his \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Handbook of the Indians of California\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> declared them to be “culturally extinct” in 1925. Subsequently, the museum itself looted the Ohlone shellmounds and took possession of many of their sacred objects and ancestral remains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, Medina and Trevino decided to take the museum’s offer to host Cafe Ohlone as a first step toward righting some of those past wrongs. “In the past, the university has not been on our side,” Medina says. “But no one wants to stay stuck in a place of frustration. This is something that can go in a really beautiful direction, especially when it’s paired with Ohlone people having a permanent presence here.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913047\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Vincent Medina holds a wooden post with the name of an Ohlone community member inscribed on it.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meyer Sound speakers will be attached to wooden posts next to each singing tree in the main dining area at cafe Ohlone. Each post will have the name of the Ohlone community whose voice recording is attached to that tree. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthrolopogy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The design of the space itself is meant to make Cafe Ohlone feel like a portal to a “whole world reimagined,” as Medina puts it—a place that reflects an Ohlone worldview down to the last detail. When guests first enter the open-air restaurant, they’ll cross through a redwood-framed “shadow box” of sorts, with plants native to the Ohlone lands illuminated onto a screen. Walking down a winding path, they’ll see two 5,000-pound granite boulders that will serve as the seats for one dining area. At the center of the restaurant, handmade tables and chairs made of reclaimed redwood will form several socially distanced “dining pods.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On the wall along one side of the dining room, there will be a building-sized mural by the native artist Jean LaMarr that will depict the great-grandparents of today’s Ohlones looking down on the restaurant, with chipped glass on top made to look like stars illuminating the night sky. At the very back of the restaurant, next to a newly built shellmound, there will be one final, elevated dining area overlooking the entire restaurant—“one communal table for our elders to sit and take it all in,” Medina explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, the central area of the restaurant is where the singing trees will live. The idea came about through a collaboration with Meyer Sound, a Berkeley-based company known for its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/91355/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">groundbreaking restaurant sound systems\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. At the new Cafe Ohlone, the Meyer Sound–donated sound system will be set up so that the trees scattered throughout the outdoor dining room—valley oak, hazel, manzanita and sycamore—will have speakers attached that will fill the space with the living Chochenyo language. Each speaker will feature the recorded voice of a member of the Ohlone community—a student in Medina and Trevino’s ongoing Chochenyo classes, in fact. So, as guests sit down to enjoy their meal, the trees will also converse and share gossip with one another in Chochenyo. “One tree will tell a joke, and another will start laughing,” Medina says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913049\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913049\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of rosehip tea.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of lightly sweetened rosehip tea. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthropology)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yes, the trees will even sing. Medina explains that he and Trevino have translated some of the 1960s pop songs that their grandparents played at home. For instance, they’ve recorded a Chochenyo version of the old love song “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu2dAQ3xb8s\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Angel Baby\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” but they’ve changed it so that the song is now addressed to “holše noono,” which means “beautiful language”—a love song to Chochenyo itself. The song starts with a single tree—a single elder from the community—singing by itself until the others join in one by one. It ends with a ten-year-old girl named Amaya Ruano—a star pupil of those Chochenyo language classes—singing a solo to represent the passing of the torch to the next generation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the food itself, one important change is that Medina and Trevino will train members of the Cal Dining staff to prepare most of the food that will be served at the original restaurant. Another is that the menu will have a little bit more of a modern feel. In addition to the most traditional, precolonial Ohlone food preparations, the new Cafe Ohlone will also serve rancheria dishes that became popular within the community during the late 1800s—things like rabbit mole, venison chile colorado and California’s native Olympia oysters, served both raw and smoked. Medina says he also plans to introduce some Ohlone-ized pasta dishes like the ones his great-great-great-grandfather—a Sicilian who took asylum at Mission San Jose and fell in love with an Ohlone woman—would have introduced to the community. So, Medina is playing around with handmade pasta dishes that incorporate native edible flowers like violet and nasturtium or a dandelion green pesto. “All these things are part of the Ohlone tradition,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Medina estimates that the construction and design work on the restaurant is currently about 60% complete, though major components like the mural and the sound system still need to be installed. If all goes well, Cafe Ohlone will start serving a series of meals for members of the Ohlone community later this month. By June, Medina says, the restaurant should be ready for its grand opening. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cafe Ohlone is slated to open in June at the Hearst Museum of Anthropology, at 102 Anthropology and Art Practice Building on Bancroft Way at College Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the better part of the pandemic, Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino didn’t even think about reopening \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The world’s only Ohlone restaurant never did outdoor dining. It only started offering a tiny number of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">take-home meal kits\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> many months after takeout had become the new normal—and just for one Sunday a month.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Instead, Medina and Trevino found an even higher calling: While the restaurant hibernated, they huddled close within their own community and dedicated themselves to hosting weekly language classes over Zoom, teaching young children and 90-year-old elders how to speak Chochenyo and Rumsen Ohlone.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now, all that cultural work is paying dividends for the restaurant, too. When Cafe Ohlone opens next month at its new location at UC Berkeley’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Hearst Museum of Anthropology\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, even the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">trees \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">will speak and sing in Chochenyo—trees hooked up to a state-of-the-art sound system playing recordings of those same Chochenyo students, to be specific. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The singing trees are just one of the showpieces in Cafe Ohlone’s new outdoor dining room, which is finally gearing up to open after the restaurant \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/7/1/21309438/cafe-ohlone-closed-berkeley-takeout-new-location\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">lost its original, back-of-a-bookstore Berkeley location\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> fairly early on during shelter in place. According to Medina, every aspect of the new restaurant is meant to evoke “a beautiful reality that looks like an Ohlone village when you walk in.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913051\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2560px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913051\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A sampler plate of Ohlone food includes a small dish of acorn soup, fried sea lettuce and a skewer of venison backstrap.\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-scaled.jpg 2560w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-768x576.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_sampler-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sampling of Cafe Ohlone’s food given out at an April 23 preview event. Small bites included fried sea lettuce, roasted fiddlehead ferns, venison backstrap and cold black oak acorn soup for dipping. \u003ccite>(Luke Tsai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We’re calling it a love song to Ohlone culture,” Medina told guests at an April preview event held at the restaurant, “because every element of the space has been designed to be specific to our beautiful Ohlone culture—to our language, to our plants, to our foods, to our values, to our aesthetics.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Even after Cafe Ohlone lost its home during the early months of the pandemic, Medina and Trevino were always insistent that the restaurant would return bigger and better than ever. But the two felt conflicted at first when the Hearst Museum offered them the opportunity to reopen. After all, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13899524/cafe-ohlone-restaurant-hearst-museum-berkeley-opening\">the museum’s relationship with the Ohlones had been deeply fraught\u003c/a>: Alfred Kroeber, the museum’s longtime director, was the one who was largely responsible for the Ohlones losing their federal recognition when his \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Handbook of the Indians of California\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> declared them to be “culturally extinct” in 1925. Subsequently, the museum itself looted the Ohlone shellmounds and took possession of many of their sacred objects and ancestral remains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, Medina and Trevino decided to take the museum’s offer to host Cafe Ohlone as a first step toward righting some of those past wrongs. “In the past, the university has not been on our side,” Medina says. “But no one wants to stay stuck in a place of frustration. This is something that can go in a really beautiful direction, especially when it’s paired with Ohlone people having a permanent presence here.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913047\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913047\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Vincent Medina holds a wooden post with the name of an Ohlone community member inscribed on it.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_pillar-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Meyer Sound speakers will be attached to wooden posts next to each singing tree in the main dining area at cafe Ohlone. Each post will have the name of the Ohlone community whose voice recording is attached to that tree. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthrolopogy)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The design of the space itself is meant to make Cafe Ohlone feel like a portal to a “whole world reimagined,” as Medina puts it—a place that reflects an Ohlone worldview down to the last detail. When guests first enter the open-air restaurant, they’ll cross through a redwood-framed “shadow box” of sorts, with plants native to the Ohlone lands illuminated onto a screen. Walking down a winding path, they’ll see two 5,000-pound granite boulders that will serve as the seats for one dining area. At the center of the restaurant, handmade tables and chairs made of reclaimed redwood will form several socially distanced “dining pods.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On the wall along one side of the dining room, there will be a building-sized mural by the native artist Jean LaMarr that will depict the great-grandparents of today’s Ohlones looking down on the restaurant, with chipped glass on top made to look like stars illuminating the night sky. At the very back of the restaurant, next to a newly built shellmound, there will be one final, elevated dining area overlooking the entire restaurant—“one communal table for our elders to sit and take it all in,” Medina explains. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Meanwhile, the central area of the restaurant is where the singing trees will live. The idea came about through a collaboration with Meyer Sound, a Berkeley-based company known for its \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/91355/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">groundbreaking restaurant sound systems\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. At the new Cafe Ohlone, the Meyer Sound–donated sound system will be set up so that the trees scattered throughout the outdoor dining room—valley oak, hazel, manzanita and sycamore—will have speakers attached that will fill the space with the living Chochenyo language. Each speaker will feature the recorded voice of a member of the Ohlone community—a student in Medina and Trevino’s ongoing Chochenyo classes, in fact. So, as guests sit down to enjoy their meal, the trees will also converse and share gossip with one another in Chochenyo. “One tree will tell a joke, and another will start laughing,” Medina says. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13913049\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1707px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-13913049\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of rosehip tea.\" width=\"1707\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-scaled.jpg 1707w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-160x240.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2022/05/cafeohlone_tea-1920x2880.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1707px) 100vw, 1707px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Hearst Museum staff member passes out cups of lightly sweetened rosehip tea. \u003ccite>(Hearst Museum of Anthropology)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And yes, the trees will even sing. Medina explains that he and Trevino have translated some of the 1960s pop songs that their grandparents played at home. For instance, they’ve recorded a Chochenyo version of the old love song “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bu2dAQ3xb8s\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Angel Baby\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">,” but they’ve changed it so that the song is now addressed to “holše noono,” which means “beautiful language”—a love song to Chochenyo itself. The song starts with a single tree—a single elder from the community—singing by itself until the others join in one by one. It ends with a ten-year-old girl named Amaya Ruano—a star pupil of those Chochenyo language classes—singing a solo to represent the passing of the torch to the next generation.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for the food itself, one important change is that Medina and Trevino will train members of the Cal Dining staff to prepare most of the food that will be served at the original restaurant. Another is that the menu will have a little bit more of a modern feel. In addition to the most traditional, precolonial Ohlone food preparations, the new Cafe Ohlone will also serve rancheria dishes that became popular within the community during the late 1800s—things like rabbit mole, venison chile colorado and California’s native Olympia oysters, served both raw and smoked. Medina says he also plans to introduce some Ohlone-ized pasta dishes like the ones his great-great-great-grandfather—a Sicilian who took asylum at Mission San Jose and fell in love with an Ohlone woman—would have introduced to the community. So, Medina is playing around with handmade pasta dishes that incorporate native edible flowers like violet and nasturtium or a dandelion green pesto. “All these things are part of the Ohlone tradition,” he says.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Medina estimates that the construction and design work on the restaurant is currently about 60% complete, though major components like the mural and the sound system still need to be installed. If all goes well, Cafe Ohlone will start serving a series of meals for members of the Ohlone community later this month. By June, Medina says, the restaurant should be ready for its grand opening. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-12904247\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"400\" height=\"39\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39.jpg 400w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-160x16.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-240x23.jpg 240w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2017/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-400x39-375x37.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cafe Ohlone is slated to open in June at the Hearst Museum of Anthropology, at 102 Anthropology and Art Practice Building on Bancroft Way at College Ave. in Berkeley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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},
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
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"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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