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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sens-756943.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/sens-756939.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, Sens opened to the public. It's located in the old Monte Cristo Cafe space at the tippy-top of a curiously exhilarating spiral staircase at Embarcadero Center 4. It's an odd place for a restaurant, but the cityviews from its windows -- of the Ferry Building, beautifully lit at night, and the Bay Bridge beyond -- are stunning. I hope the location will work for it, rather than against it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The large interior has the feel of an elegant hunting lodge, with stone walls original to the restaurant, wooden beams, and cocoa brown leather armchairs at every place. Chef Michael Dotson (Evvia Estiatorio, Slow Club, PlumpJack Cafe) has crafted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thrillist.com//send-image.html?entry_id=1801&img=sens.jpg\">\u003cstrong>menu\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> focused on an area of the southern Mediterranean not well represented in San Francisco, traveling from Greece to Turkey to North Africa. According to the press release, Sens will pair \"ingredients indigenous to these lands...with locally sourced organic and sustainable produce, meat and fish.\" The wine list, from General Manager and Sommelier Saeed Amini (Mondavi, Cetrella, Kokkari), includes biodynamic and seasonal selections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At last week's Friends & Family preview, the menu included things like crispy-fried veal and olive meatballs, braised lamb shank spiced with za'atar, whole roasted sea bass, and cumin pot de creme. Eating there was a full circle moment for me, as I have been following along with Pastry Chef (and Bay Area Bites contributor) Shuna Lydon's (Aziza, Citizen Cake, Bouchon, The French Laundry) pre-opening jitters on \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/09/opening-a-res-9.html\">\u003cstrong>eggbeater\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Shuna has christened her \"fruit and aroma inspired desserts\" with intoxicating names like \"soft & evocative\", and though this is not a review, may I simply say that my heart stopped when I tasted the verbena brown butter on the peaches?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sens Restaurant\u003cbr>4 Embarcadero Center, Promenade Level\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 362-0645\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>A recent lunch with a caravan of hungry friends reminded me of the insurmountable difference between eating in America and eating in Vietnam. Even when the food is excellent, even with folks I love, even when the weather is as freaky hot as it's been this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Expansive menus, with dishes numbering into the three digits, and the a la carte approach to dining in the West culminated again in an experience that's difficult for me to reconcile with Vietnamese food: every single person at the table was eating something completely different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My bowl of noodles was wedged between a dish of curry on the left and grilled beef with rice paper on the right. Across from me were fried frog legs, and at the end of the table was a pile of pork chops. When such radically different dishes are slung onto a table, the spirit of the food itself is lost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants in Vietnam tend to specialize in one, two, maybe three variations on a single dish. Everyone in the restaurant, let alone everyone at the table, is slurping soup or wrapping shrimp together. If different courses are served, they come family style, and everyone shares from the middle of the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for true family style, when the Tran clan gathers, we'll clear out the living room furniture, sit in a huge circle on the floor, and place multiple platters of the same dish to share in the middle. There's no such thing as a buffet for the cousins to pick and choose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again...where would we be without American individuality? The freedom to choose, the freedom to express our inner desires, the freedom to break out of the circle, the freedom to be alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clockwise around the table:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banh hoi, delicate squares of rice noodles, define an entire class of dishes. Here, grilled beef rolls are the savory star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duck soup with dried bamboo shoots is a hard-to-find treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shredded duck meat tossed with cabbage falls into the goi category, special salads that start formal meals or accompany congee soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese \"gatorade\" made from salted plums and lime juice. An acquired taste for some but most definitely good for your body on the hottest days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicken curry reveals the country's old ties with India and Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hearty and spicy, bun bo hue highlights thick, round rice noodles, slices of pork, and chewy nuggets of pig's feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plates of fresh herbs...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and fresh vegetables define a southern Vietnamese table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A generous platter of sweetly charred pork chops will feed someone for a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not quite the river prawns promised, but still rich with shrimp brains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fried frog legs, one of the restaurant's specialties, are the upscale version of buffalo wings. Lime and black pepper add zest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soft, fresh tofu is fried to order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spring rolls the New-World way...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and the Old-World way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The line out front hints at the lunchtime wait at this very popular restaurant, an excellent place to compose a medley of Vietnamese dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vung Tau II Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1750 N Milpitas Blvd.\u003cbr>Milpitas, CA 95035\u003cbr>(408) 934-9327\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A recent lunch with a caravan of hungry friends reminded me of the insurmountable difference between eating in America and eating in Vietnam. Even when the food is excellent, even with folks I love, even when the weather is as freaky hot as it's been this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Expansive menus, with dishes numbering into the three digits, and the a la carte approach to dining in the West culminated again in an experience that's difficult for me to reconcile with Vietnamese food: every single person at the table was eating something completely different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My bowl of noodles was wedged between a dish of curry on the left and grilled beef with rice paper on the right. Across from me were fried frog legs, and at the end of the table was a pile of pork chops. When such radically different dishes are slung onto a table, the spirit of the food itself is lost.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants in Vietnam tend to specialize in one, two, maybe three variations on a single dish. Everyone in the restaurant, let alone everyone at the table, is slurping soup or wrapping shrimp together. If different courses are served, they come family style, and everyone shares from the middle of the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for true family style, when the Tran clan gathers, we'll clear out the living room furniture, sit in a huge circle on the floor, and place multiple platters of the same dish to share in the middle. There's no such thing as a buffet for the cousins to pick and choose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then again...where would we be without American individuality? The freedom to choose, the freedom to express our inner desires, the freedom to break out of the circle, the freedom to be alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clockwise around the table:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banh hoi, delicate squares of rice noodles, define an entire class of dishes. Here, grilled beef rolls are the savory star.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duck soup with dried bamboo shoots is a hard-to-find treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shredded duck meat tossed with cabbage falls into the goi category, special salads that start formal meals or accompany congee soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese \"gatorade\" made from salted plums and lime juice. An acquired taste for some but most definitely good for your body on the hottest days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicken curry reveals the country's old ties with India and Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hearty and spicy, bun bo hue highlights thick, round rice noodles, slices of pork, and chewy nuggets of pig's feet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Plates of fresh herbs...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and fresh vegetables define a southern Vietnamese table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A generous platter of sweetly charred pork chops will feed someone for a week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not quite the river prawns promised, but still rich with shrimp brains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fried frog legs, one of the restaurant's specialties, are the upscale version of buffalo wings. Lime and black pepper add zest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The soft, fresh tofu is fried to order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spring rolls the New-World way...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and the Old-World way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The line out front hints at the lunchtime wait at this very popular restaurant, an excellent place to compose a medley of Vietnamese dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vung Tau II Restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>1750 N Milpitas Blvd.\u003cbr>Milpitas, CA 95035\u003cbr>(408) 934-9327\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mdf-740677.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/mdf-740677.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the proliferation of excellent burritos and taco trucks worth chasing down, it's hard to find a decent sit-down Mexican place in San Francisco. While \u003ca href=\"http://www.mex-df.com\">Mexico DF\u003c/a> isn't quite perfect, it's good enough to overlook the flaws and welcome its addition to the city's restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They say you never get a second chance to make a first impression; visually, Mexico DF nails it. From an oversized rustic chandelier made from a lattice iron grill and hanging crystals to vivid back-lit artwork by \u003ca href=\"http://www.bondlatin.com/tamayo01.htm?gclid=CKiSocKq2o4CFSQeYAod0SeVTg\">Oaxacan artist Rufino Tamayo\u003c/a>, Mexico DF is a beautiful space with refined nods to the country that inspired it. Tables are laid with brightly colored chargers, and the open kitchen is roofed with a cherry red canopy. On a recent Saturday night, though the bar was calm, the dining room had a pleasant buzz to it. Service, though \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/08/26/CM81RDO0M.DTL&type=food\">rumored\u003c/a> to be amateur, was anything but. Our server was friendly, full of recommendations, happy to answer questions (where the goat was raised, for example) and he changed out our plates and silver between every single course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name of the restaurant, which refers to Mexico's capital city, gives some idea as to the focus of chef David Rosales' cuisine. The dinner menu offers a bit of everything (except burritos), from ceviche to soup, tacos to whole roasted fish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guac-761910.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guac-761905.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started with the house guacamole. If you had asked me to rate the restaurant after only one bite, I would have awarded it an A. Thick, creamy, and judiciously seasoned, the guacamole ($9) arrived with a handful of tortilla chips architecturally arrayed in its greenery, as well as two kinds of salsa (sweet chile de arbol and peppy tomatillo-habanero, which are available for sale by the bottle). Our server brought us a back-up supply of chips so we could lap it all up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/drinks-783398.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/drinks-783396.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both the margaritas we ordered -- the sweet, midnight-colored Xochimilco with hibiscus and peach juice ($9) and the classic Polanco ($10.50) with Herradura reposado -- were well-made and easy to drink. Next time I'd like to try a version with muddled grapefruit just for kicks. After our guacamole, we switched to wine. The Tobia tempranillo ($12) was smokier than I liked, but the fruitier MAS malbec ($8) suited me well. Neither were particularly astute matches for the food, however.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corn_smut\">corn fungus\u003c/a> that convinced us to share the chile relleno rather than one of the ceviches. A gigantic mild green pepper ($14) was stuffed first with corn, summer squash, and the musky sweet Mexican delicacy known as huitlacoche, then coated in breading, deep-fried, and drizzled in crema and Tangerine tomato salsa. The fried coating got soggy under the sauce, but its inner beauty shown through, and we gobbled up the the insides wrapped in their crisp pepper shell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chile-799662.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chile-799652.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For our mains, we heeded the mighty call of the taco. The chuleta consisted of small pieces of lean pork loin ($9 for two), a confetti of raw white onions, and chile de arbol salsa on the side. They were only okay. I was craving a juicier meat, I suppose, so it's my own fault for ordering the loin. But it doesn't change the fact that they were no better than average. Next time, I'll get the carnitas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cabrito ($12 for two), however, were oustanding. Goat meat is popular in a variety of cultures, from Latin America to the Middle East. It isn't something we gringos eat a lot, and I can tell you we're missing out. The rich, juicy, slightly smoky barbacoa-style goat was the best thing I ate all night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're gluttons, so we also ordered a huarache corn masa \"sandal\" with grilled short ribs ($10). The meat had a great grilled flavor, but it was too fatty for me and I spit it out. My boyfriend devoured it, though, and I found myself compulsively picking at the queso fresco on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not sure whether I loved or hated the house pickled jalapenos ($2) that arrived at my request with my tacos. The thin carrot slivers were sweet and tangy, but the peppers packed more punch than a heavyweight boxer in the fight of his life, and my poor palate got quite a scorching. I had to order a side of crema to cut the heat, and sat spooning it into my beleaguered mouth for quite some time. Still, I can't say that I didn't sort of enjoy the rush, and as soon as my tongue had cooled, I picked up another one and took another bite. (A much smaller bite.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ended our meal with a burnt caramel flan ($8). I'd hoped it would change my mind about flan, and though it was creamy and the sweet caramel sauce burnt just enough, in the end it was only flan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, we enjoyed an above average meal, tasty margaritas, superb service and a few standout bites. I really appreciated the more unusual ingredients on the menu, neither of which I can recall seeing on a local menu before. Our server told us that the goat is raised in Colorado for Niman Ranch, and the huitlacoche is grown for the restaurant by a local farmer. Next time I'm craving Mexican and I want to sit down and linger over dinner, I'll be back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexico DF\u003cbr>139 Steuart Street at Mission\u003cbr>San Francisco \u003cbr>(415) 808-1048\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week for dinner, M-F lunch\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started with the house guacamole. If you had asked me to rate the restaurant after only one bite, I would have awarded it an A. Thick, creamy, and judiciously seasoned, the guacamole ($9) arrived with a handful of tortilla chips architecturally arrayed in its greenery, as well as two kinds of salsa (sweet chile de arbol and peppy tomatillo-habanero, which are available for sale by the bottle). Our server brought us a back-up supply of chips so we could lap it all up. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/drinks-783398.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/drinks-783396.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both the margaritas we ordered -- the sweet, midnight-colored Xochimilco with hibiscus and peach juice ($9) and the classic Polanco ($10.50) with Herradura reposado -- were well-made and easy to drink. Next time I'd like to try a version with muddled grapefruit just for kicks. After our guacamole, we switched to wine. The Tobia tempranillo ($12) was smokier than I liked, but the fruitier MAS malbec ($8) suited me well. Neither were particularly astute matches for the food, however.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corn_smut\">corn fungus\u003c/a> that convinced us to share the chile relleno rather than one of the ceviches. A gigantic mild green pepper ($14) was stuffed first with corn, summer squash, and the musky sweet Mexican delicacy known as huitlacoche, then coated in breading, deep-fried, and drizzled in crema and Tangerine tomato salsa. The fried coating got soggy under the sauce, but its inner beauty shown through, and we gobbled up the the insides wrapped in their crisp pepper shell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chile-799662.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/chile-799652.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For our mains, we heeded the mighty call of the taco. The chuleta consisted of small pieces of lean pork loin ($9 for two), a confetti of raw white onions, and chile de arbol salsa on the side. They were only okay. I was craving a juicier meat, I suppose, so it's my own fault for ordering the loin. But it doesn't change the fact that they were no better than average. Next time, I'll get the carnitas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cabrito ($12 for two), however, were oustanding. Goat meat is popular in a variety of cultures, from Latin America to the Middle East. It isn't something we gringos eat a lot, and I can tell you we're missing out. The rich, juicy, slightly smoky barbacoa-style goat was the best thing I ate all night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're gluttons, so we also ordered a huarache corn masa \"sandal\" with grilled short ribs ($10). The meat had a great grilled flavor, but it was too fatty for me and I spit it out. My boyfriend devoured it, though, and I found myself compulsively picking at the queso fresco on top.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm not sure whether I loved or hated the house pickled jalapenos ($2) that arrived at my request with my tacos. The thin carrot slivers were sweet and tangy, but the peppers packed more punch than a heavyweight boxer in the fight of his life, and my poor palate got quite a scorching. I had to order a side of crema to cut the heat, and sat spooning it into my beleaguered mouth for quite some time. Still, I can't say that I didn't sort of enjoy the rush, and as soon as my tongue had cooled, I picked up another one and took another bite. (A much smaller bite.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ended our meal with a burnt caramel flan ($8). I'd hoped it would change my mind about flan, and though it was creamy and the sweet caramel sauce burnt just enough, in the end it was only flan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, we enjoyed an above average meal, tasty margaritas, superb service and a few standout bites. I really appreciated the more unusual ingredients on the menu, neither of which I can recall seeing on a local menu before. Our server told us that the goat is raised in Colorado for Niman Ranch, and the huitlacoche is grown for the restaurant by a local farmer. Next time I'm craving Mexican and I want to sit down and linger over dinner, I'll be back.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexico DF\u003cbr>139 Steuart Street at Mission\u003cbr>San Francisco \u003cbr>(415) 808-1048\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week for dinner, M-F lunch\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Two weeks of camping has a way of simplifying one's needs. Or, at least, it should. I must admit that I was rather taken with a supply run at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rei.com/seattle\">\u003cstrong>REI's flagship store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Seattle. Amazing what we can schlep along with us as essential gear, but gone are the days -- thank goodness! -- of wet wool, freeze-dried food and heavy tents. And remember the taste of water after sloshing around in one of those metal canteens?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was more than happy to wander back into civilization as we made our way home. If you're planning a trip yourself to the Pacific Northwest, here are two places worth visiting. I'll post more once I get back to San Francisco, but for now, a taste of my travels....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TOP POT DOUGHNUTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's only natural that a city obsessive about its coffee would develop a gourmet doughnut chain. Top Pot Doughnut already has three shops scattered in Seattle, and a few more will likely pop up soon. Known for their sleek modern take on the donut stop, Top Pot is a place for lounging as much as dunking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their downtown location on 5th Avenue has a spacious mezzanine, outdoor seating and an onsite coffee roasting facility. You'll need to get there early in the day for a taste of their famous pumpkin doughnuts and their much-loved, fast-moving apple fritters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top Pot leans toward classic interpretations of cake and old-fashioned doughnuts. I ordered a dozen and managed to take two bites of every single one in the box. I loved the chocolate topped with raspberry icing and the old-fashioned frosted, but the good, ol' jelly doughnut sprinkled with powdered sugar won my heart. And yes, the apple fritter deserves all that fuss. Selling out of their \"hand-forged\" doughnuts isn't a hard thing to do when they taste as good as these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.toppotdoughnuts.com/flash/\">\u003cstrong>Top Pot Doughnuts\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2124 5th Avenue \u003cbr>Seattle, WA 98121 \u003cbr>(206) 728-1966\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VOODOO DOUGHNUT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the skid from my favorite bookstore in the world, \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/\">\u003cstrong>Powell's \"City of Books\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Portland, is my new favorite doughnut shop. If you're in the neighborhood of Burnside and 3rd Avenue, then be sure to stop in at Voodoo Doughnut for the pure glee and fun of it. Where else could you get a massive 10-inch, chocolate-covered Cock & Balls? Or a Captain Crunch Doughnut? Or the incredibly impressive Maple Bacon Bar? The decor is cheeky-grunge, the hours are 24/7, and the revolving donut display will hypnotize you with its colorful promises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have time, you can get married in their wedding chapel or, like me, just settle for a soothing voodoo doll pierced through the belly with a pretzel stick. I can now assure you that biting off the head of your ex-boss is even more satisfying than sticking it with straight pins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A special shout-out to their collection of vegan doughnuts. Honestly, the only vegan baked good I've ever recommended. As someone who's always trying to figure out how to slip an egg yolk and/or butter into my recipes, this is not a frivolous compliment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voodoodoughnut.com/\">\u003cstrong>Voodoo Doughnut\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>22 SW 3rd Avenue\u003cbr>Portland, OR 97204\u003cbr>(503) 241-4704\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll be back in San Francisco in a few days. It'd be great to hear from all of you about your own favorite local sources for dunkers and sinkers. Any suggestions?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Two weeks of camping has a way of simplifying one's needs. Or, at least, it should. I must admit that I was rather taken with a supply run at \u003ca href=\"http://www.rei.com/seattle\">\u003cstrong>REI's flagship store\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Seattle. Amazing what we can schlep along with us as essential gear, but gone are the days -- thank goodness! -- of wet wool, freeze-dried food and heavy tents. And remember the taste of water after sloshing around in one of those metal canteens?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was more than happy to wander back into civilization as we made our way home. If you're planning a trip yourself to the Pacific Northwest, here are two places worth visiting. I'll post more once I get back to San Francisco, but for now, a taste of my travels....\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TOP POT DOUGHNUTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's only natural that a city obsessive about its coffee would develop a gourmet doughnut chain. Top Pot Doughnut already has three shops scattered in Seattle, and a few more will likely pop up soon. Known for their sleek modern take on the donut stop, Top Pot is a place for lounging as much as dunking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their downtown location on 5th Avenue has a spacious mezzanine, outdoor seating and an onsite coffee roasting facility. You'll need to get there early in the day for a taste of their famous pumpkin doughnuts and their much-loved, fast-moving apple fritters. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Top Pot leans toward classic interpretations of cake and old-fashioned doughnuts. I ordered a dozen and managed to take two bites of every single one in the box. I loved the chocolate topped with raspberry icing and the old-fashioned frosted, but the good, ol' jelly doughnut sprinkled with powdered sugar won my heart. And yes, the apple fritter deserves all that fuss. Selling out of their \"hand-forged\" doughnuts isn't a hard thing to do when they taste as good as these.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.toppotdoughnuts.com/flash/\">\u003cstrong>Top Pot Doughnuts\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>2124 5th Avenue \u003cbr>Seattle, WA 98121 \u003cbr>(206) 728-1966\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VOODOO DOUGHNUT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just down the skid from my favorite bookstore in the world, \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/\">\u003cstrong>Powell's \"City of Books\"\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Portland, is my new favorite doughnut shop. If you're in the neighborhood of Burnside and 3rd Avenue, then be sure to stop in at Voodoo Doughnut for the pure glee and fun of it. Where else could you get a massive 10-inch, chocolate-covered Cock & Balls? Or a Captain Crunch Doughnut? Or the incredibly impressive Maple Bacon Bar? The decor is cheeky-grunge, the hours are 24/7, and the revolving donut display will hypnotize you with its colorful promises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have time, you can get married in their wedding chapel or, like me, just settle for a soothing voodoo doll pierced through the belly with a pretzel stick. I can now assure you that biting off the head of your ex-boss is even more satisfying than sticking it with straight pins. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A special shout-out to their collection of vegan doughnuts. Honestly, the only vegan baked good I've ever recommended. As someone who's always trying to figure out how to slip an egg yolk and/or butter into my recipes, this is not a frivolous compliment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voodoodoughnut.com/\">\u003cstrong>Voodoo Doughnut\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>22 SW 3rd Avenue\u003cbr>Portland, OR 97204\u003cbr>(503) 241-4704\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'll be back in San Francisco in a few days. It'd be great to hear from all of you about your own favorite local sources for dunkers and sinkers. Any suggestions?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Oh Where, Oh Where to Take Visitors to Eat?",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/square-703030.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/square-703028.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was in college, my roommate introduced me to Kierkegaard's theory of the despair of infinitude. It was complicated in an existential sort of way, but over the years, I've adopted a variation on the term -- the despair of infinity -- to refer to the overwhelming sensation I feel when faced with too many choices. Trying to pickout an outfit for the first day of work after a big shopping spree? Despair of infinity. Time to whip up dinner and the fridge is full of food? Despair of infinity. Back from a year in Russia and sitting at a bar, perusing a beer list of 6 drafts and 20 bottles? Praise capitalism in all its glory -- but that's despair of infinity nonetheless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The despair of infinity comes upon me almost anytime I have to decide where to take visitors to dinner. When I was new to San Francisco, it was easy. We simply went wherever I had not been and, especially if it was my folks, could not afford. Over the years, I've exhausted most of the San Francisco icons with repeat visitors, and moved on to personal neighborhood favorites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Indian summer is the best time for visitors, I thought I'd share the places on my short list. Where do you like to take visiting family and friends out to eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Icons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Cafe\u003c/a> A perrenial favorite. Who doesn't love the copper bar, the Caesar salad, and the roast chicken? 1658 Market Street, (415) 552-2522.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> Some people complain that it's gotten too big for its britches since moving into the Ferry Building, but the shaking beef still rocks, and the Bay views can't be beat. 1 Ferry Building #3 at the Embarcadero, (415) 861-8032.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/main.html\">Boulevard\u003c/a> This feel-good brasserie sticks to seasonal California classics, and it has an old-world elegance that's irresistable. 1 Mission Street, (415) 543-6084.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Regulars\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.vivande.com/\">Vivande\u003c/a> This was a weekly stop when I lived in Pacific Heights. The pasta is handmade, the sausage comes from a 150-year-old family recipe, and the lemon tart is worth the visit alone. 2125 Fillmore Street, (415) 346-4430.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://home.earthlink.net/~zootster/index.html\">1550 Hyde\u003c/a> The philosophy here is to cook with the Bay Area's best sustainably raised produce and meats, like cult favorite Hoffman Gamebirds' chickens. I've never had a meal that was anything short of extraordinary. 1550 Hyde Street, (415) 775-1550. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://anticasf.com/\">Antica Trattoria\u003c/a> Though the atmosphere isn't as convivial as it is at Ristorante Milano, another favorite haunt, the food is more rustic and the servers remember their regulars. 2400 Polk Street, (415) 928-5797.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Current Favorites\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a> This relatively new addition to North Beach is fast becoming a destination. I crave the roasted cauliflower with capers and pine nuts on a regular basis. 550 Green Street, (415) 433-4000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.terzosf.com\">Terzo\u003c/a> If I lived in the Marina, I'd come here all the time for small plates like succulent, spicy chicken spiedini and the addictive crispy fried onion rings. As it is, I'm on a first name basis with the hostess. 3011 Steiner Street, (415) 441-3200.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/index.php?caseid=main\">Bourbon & Branch\u003c/a> -- This modern speakeasy may not serve a single bite of food, but it is the coolest bar in town. Okay, so the secret password is a bit hokey, but once you're inside, inventive cocktails and the 1920's-inspired atmosphere cast their spell. Visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com\">bourbonandbranch.com\u003c/a> for reservations.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Cafe\u003c/a> A perrenial favorite. Who doesn't love the copper bar, the Caesar salad, and the roast chicken? 1658 Market Street, (415) 552-2522.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a> Some people complain that it's gotten too big for its britches since moving into the Ferry Building, but the shaking beef still rocks, and the Bay views can't be beat. 1 Ferry Building #3 at the Embarcadero, (415) 861-8032.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/main.html\">Boulevard\u003c/a> This feel-good brasserie sticks to seasonal California classics, and it has an old-world elegance that's irresistable. 1 Mission Street, (415) 543-6084.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Regulars\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.vivande.com/\">Vivande\u003c/a> This was a weekly stop when I lived in Pacific Heights. The pasta is handmade, the sausage comes from a 150-year-old family recipe, and the lemon tart is worth the visit alone. 2125 Fillmore Street, (415) 346-4430.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://home.earthlink.net/~zootster/index.html\">1550 Hyde\u003c/a> The philosophy here is to cook with the Bay Area's best sustainably raised produce and meats, like cult favorite Hoffman Gamebirds' chickens. I've never had a meal that was anything short of extraordinary. 1550 Hyde Street, (415) 775-1550. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://anticasf.com/\">Antica Trattoria\u003c/a> Though the atmosphere isn't as convivial as it is at Ristorante Milano, another favorite haunt, the food is more rustic and the servers remember their regulars. 2400 Polk Street, (415) 928-5797.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Current Favorites\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a> This relatively new addition to North Beach is fast becoming a destination. I crave the roasted cauliflower with capers and pine nuts on a regular basis. 550 Green Street, (415) 433-4000.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.terzosf.com\">Terzo\u003c/a> If I lived in the Marina, I'd come here all the time for small plates like succulent, spicy chicken spiedini and the addictive crispy fried onion rings. As it is, I'm on a first name basis with the hostess. 3011 Steiner Street, (415) 441-3200.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com/index.php?caseid=main\">Bourbon & Branch\u003c/a> -- This modern speakeasy may not serve a single bite of food, but it is the coolest bar in town. Okay, so the secret password is a bit hokey, but once you're inside, inventive cocktails and the 1920's-inspired atmosphere cast their spell. Visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.bourbonandbranch.com\">bourbonandbranch.com\u003c/a> for reservations.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>This week I scored big. In addition to finishing off a pint of \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">\u003cstrong>burnt caramel ice cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> I found a dusty but still strongly bound first edition of \u003ci>Laughter on the Hill\u003c/i>, a book about a young woman who moved to San Francisco alone in the winter of 1940. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>(Grandmothers, 1955. Courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/\">\u003cstrong>San Francisco Public Library\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For others who have adopted this city as their home, who have looked over the Bay and its bridges with awe, lived in a drafty dump of a flat that's very well stocked with wine, or danced in the streets with strangers, this memoir will also strike a chord. It reminded me of other books that capture a special, specific time in the City's history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a taste of San Francisco in years past...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/cgi-bin/ptext?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A2000.02.0085&layout=&loc=34\">\u003cstrong>Recollections of California: 1846-1881\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by General William T. Sherman\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>During the spring of 1848, as reports of gold began transforming the City, young William Tecumseh Sherman was still stationed under General Kearny in California. Later in his life, he remembered accompanying Governor Mason from San Francisco to Santa Cruz on one particularly difficult journey.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The house was of adobe, with a long range of adobe-huts occupied by semi-civilized Indians, who at that time did all the labor of a ranch, the herding and marking of cattle, breaking of horses, and cultivating the little patches of wheat and vegetables which constituted all the farming of that day. Every thing about the house looked deserted, and, seeing a small Indian boy leaning up against a post, I approached him and asked in Spanish, \"Where is the master?\" \"Gone to the Presidio\" (Monterey). \"Is anybody in the house?\" \"No.\" \"Is it locked up?\" \"Yes.\" \"Is no one about who can get in?\" \"No.\" \"Do you have any meat?\" \"No.\" \"Any flour or grain?\" \"No.\" \"Any chickens?\" \"No.\" \"Any eggs?\" \"No.\" \"What do you live on?\" \"\u003ci>Nada\u003c/i>\" (nothing). The utter indifference of this boy and the tone of his \u003ci>\"Nada\"\u003c/i> attracted the attention of Colonel Mason, who had been listening to our conversation, and who knew enough of Spanish to catch the meaning, and he exclaimed with some feeling, \"So we get \u003ci>nada\u003c/i> for breakfast.\" I felt mortified, for I had held out the prospect of a splendid breakfast of meat and \u003ci>tortillas\u003c/i> with rice, chicken, eggs, etc., at the ranch of my friend Jose Antonio, as a justification for taking the Governor, a man of sixty years of age, more than twenty miles at a full canter for his breakfast. But there was no help for it, and we accordingly went a short distance to a pond, where we unpacked our mules and made a slim breakfast on scraps of hard bread and a bone of pork that remained in our \u003ci>alforjas\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1419127640/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>Joe Tilden's Recipes for Epicures\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Major Joseph Tilden (Sequoia Press, 1907)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Back when celery was a rare and refined delicacy, displaying its long green stalks in a crystal \u003ca href=\"http://historywired.si.edu/object.cfm?ID=372\">\u003cstrong>celery vase\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was a mark of high society. The tenderest, palest stalks would appear in a creamy soup. This version comes from the kitchen of San Francisco's self-proclaimed Bohemian and epicurean, Joe Tilden.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery Soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil one small cupful of rice in three pints of milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, until it is tender. Then rub it through a sieve and add one quart of veal stock, salt, cayenne, and three heads of celery (the white stalks only) which have been previously grated. Boil until the celery is tender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000KRV3JK/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Laughter on the Hill: A San Francisco Interlude\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Margaret Parton (McGraw-Hill, 1945)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This slim volume recounts the quintessential San Francisco experience: the ripeness of youth, rebellion amidst soul-searching, parties with poets and much, much red wine. Before she became a reporter and correspondent for the \u003c/i>New York Herald Tribune\u003ci>, Parton lived for a year in a tiny, walk-up on Telegraph Hill.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was autumn now in San Francisco, and wine-making time on the Hill. As I walked down Union Street toward the streetcar I could smell the purple grapes hanging rich and heavy in the hidden arbors behind the bare white fronts of the Italian flats. Great wooden barrels, scoured for the wine to come, began to appear in front of every doorstep, and one day there was the stained old wine press starting its yearly journey from the houses at the top of the Hill down to the late harvesters at the bottom. Each day as I passed it would be moved a little farther down, its heady smell mingling with the warm air from the basement bakeries, the odors of Provolone, salami, and black olives from the dim Italian groceries, the acid reek of the dark, male-frequented alleys, the salt wind from the Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000OKQFFA/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>This is San Francisco: A Classic Portrait of the City\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Robert O'Brien (Whittlesey House, 1948)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>For catching the City in its many moods, there's no better than Robert O'Brien's street-by-street study. He trained his eyes and ears onto the quirky characters who flocked to the \"City of Second Chances,\" and his book, recently reprinted, remains one of the best portraits we have of the City.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cross Broadway, and you leave behind the kingdom of \u003ci>chow mein\u003c/i> and \u003ci>jow won ton\u003c/i> and jasmine tea, and enter the realm of ravioli. The vowels you hear now are soft and liquid, and the music is something from \u003ci> La Tosca\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, a step from the corner of Grant Avenue and Broadway is a cafe called \"La Tosca.\" Scenes from the opera are painted on the walls; Caruso sings from the juke box, and you drink a \u003ci>cappuccino\u003c/i>, gray, like the robe of a capuchin monk, and made of chocolate that is laced with brandy or rum, and heated by steam forced through coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a world of round \u003ci>brovolette\u003c/i> cheeses hanging in store windows, and garlic sausage, and \u003ci>capretti\u003c/i> at Easter time. Of the lovely smells of baking bread coming from ovens beneath the sidewalk, of picturesque and brightly colored family washings on clotheslines strung high over narrow alleys, of flowers in window boxes and canaries singing. Of Tony's Shaving Parlor, and the Panama Canal Tagliarini and Noodle Factory and the Roma Macaroni Factory. Of steep lanes on the side of Telegraph Hill, and fat Italian housewives leaning on the their window sills and laughing in the sunshine, and wiry Italian boys playing ball in the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1558217541/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Alice B. Toklas (Harper & Row, 1954)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>After settling comfortably for years in France, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas returned to the U.S. for a lecture tour that stretched from New York to California. They weren't impressed with what they ate during much of their journey across the nation but were delighted at last to reach the West Coast. (I've been searching for the \u003c/i>tarte Chambord\u003ci> recipe for years, so if anyone knows how to make it, drop me a line!)\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, we indulged in gastronomic orgies--sand dabs \u003ci>meuniere\u003c/i>, rainbow trout in aspic, grilled soft-shell crabs, \u003ci>paupieres\u003c/i> of roast fillets of pork, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/manywaysforcookingeggs/eggs_rossini.php\">\u003cstrong>eggs Rossini\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i>. The \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i> had been a specialty of one of the three great French bakers before the San Francisco fire. To my surprise in Paris no one had ever heard of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Fisherman's Wharf we waited for two enormous crabs to be cooked in a cauldron on the side-walk, and they were still quite warm when we ate them at lunch in Napa Country. \u003ca href=\"http://www.online-literature.com/gertrude-atherton/\">\u003cstrong>Gertrude Atherton\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> took us to lunch at a restaurant were the menu consisted entirely of the most perfectly cooked shell-fish, to her club where the cooking was incredibly good, and to dinner at a club of writers where conversation excelled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393084221/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Silent Traveler in San Francisco\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Chiang Yee (W.W. Norton, 1964)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This is one in a long series of books written and illustrated by Yee as he explored cities throughout Europe and the U.S.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crab-sellers of San Francisco's Fishermen's Wharf offer a sharp contrast to my mind from the lobster-seller in Bar Harbor and all the coastal towns of the State of Maine. There every lobster is kept alive as long as possible and there is no sign of any being cooked on the spot. It is the general belief that a lobster should be eaten straight after being cooked, for it tastes best then. Does not this belief extend to crabs? Or perhaps crabs cannot live out of the sea for long? The most puzzling point for me is that \u003ci>Crabdom\u003c/i> seems to lie in the bottom of the Pacific around the west coast covering San Francisco while \u003ci>Lobsterdom\u003c/i> (if any) is in that part of the Atlantic covering the New England States. The Chinese proverb \"Pai wen pu yu yi chien\" or \"Hearing (about a thing) a hundred times is not better than seeing it once\" proves true. Had I not been in both places I should not have realised the existence of these separate kingdoms. Crabdom and Lobsterdom!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating a whole freshly-cooked lobster or crab, though some small forks are usually provided, involves some action with the fingers from time to time, which in turns involves \"table manners.\" This brings to my mind many little problems concerning Chinese eating manners....We Chinese have two definite styles of eating: formal eating and eating for pleasure. At a banquet it is all formality and good manners; at other times we just enjoy ourselves, and then there is no question of etiquette. That is why some of the typically Chinese restaurants in San Francisco have a number of partitioned rooms, unlike the modern fashionable restaurant with many tables neatly arranged all together. Within these partitions, one can enjoy a meal with one's friends, and eat as unconventionally as one likes without being criticized. Unfortunately this kind of typical Chinese restaurant with partitioned rooms is beginning to disappear even in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This week I scored big. In addition to finishing off a pint of \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">\u003cstrong>burnt caramel ice cream\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> I found a dusty but still strongly bound first edition of \u003ci>Laughter on the Hill\u003c/i>, a book about a young woman who moved to San Francisco alone in the winter of 1940. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>(Grandmothers, 1955. Courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://sfpl.org/news/onlineexhibits/shades/\">\u003cstrong>San Francisco Public Library\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For others who have adopted this city as their home, who have looked over the Bay and its bridges with awe, lived in a drafty dump of a flat that's very well stocked with wine, or danced in the streets with strangers, this memoir will also strike a chord. It reminded me of other books that capture a special, specific time in the City's history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a taste of San Francisco in years past...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/cgi-bin/ptext?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A2000.02.0085&layout=&loc=34\">\u003cstrong>Recollections of California: 1846-1881\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by General William T. Sherman\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>During the spring of 1848, as reports of gold began transforming the City, young William Tecumseh Sherman was still stationed under General Kearny in California. Later in his life, he remembered accompanying Governor Mason from San Francisco to Santa Cruz on one particularly difficult journey.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The house was of adobe, with a long range of adobe-huts occupied by semi-civilized Indians, who at that time did all the labor of a ranch, the herding and marking of cattle, breaking of horses, and cultivating the little patches of wheat and vegetables which constituted all the farming of that day. Every thing about the house looked deserted, and, seeing a small Indian boy leaning up against a post, I approached him and asked in Spanish, \"Where is the master?\" \"Gone to the Presidio\" (Monterey). \"Is anybody in the house?\" \"No.\" \"Is it locked up?\" \"Yes.\" \"Is no one about who can get in?\" \"No.\" \"Do you have any meat?\" \"No.\" \"Any flour or grain?\" \"No.\" \"Any chickens?\" \"No.\" \"Any eggs?\" \"No.\" \"What do you live on?\" \"\u003ci>Nada\u003c/i>\" (nothing). The utter indifference of this boy and the tone of his \u003ci>\"Nada\"\u003c/i> attracted the attention of Colonel Mason, who had been listening to our conversation, and who knew enough of Spanish to catch the meaning, and he exclaimed with some feeling, \"So we get \u003ci>nada\u003c/i> for breakfast.\" I felt mortified, for I had held out the prospect of a splendid breakfast of meat and \u003ci>tortillas\u003c/i> with rice, chicken, eggs, etc., at the ranch of my friend Jose Antonio, as a justification for taking the Governor, a man of sixty years of age, more than twenty miles at a full canter for his breakfast. But there was no help for it, and we accordingly went a short distance to a pond, where we unpacked our mules and made a slim breakfast on scraps of hard bread and a bone of pork that remained in our \u003ci>alforjas\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1419127640/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>Joe Tilden's Recipes for Epicures\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Major Joseph Tilden (Sequoia Press, 1907)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Back when celery was a rare and refined delicacy, displaying its long green stalks in a crystal \u003ca href=\"http://historywired.si.edu/object.cfm?ID=372\">\u003cstrong>celery vase\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was a mark of high society. The tenderest, palest stalks would appear in a creamy soup. This version comes from the kitchen of San Francisco's self-proclaimed Bohemian and epicurean, Joe Tilden.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Celery Soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil one small cupful of rice in three pints of milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, until it is tender. Then rub it through a sieve and add one quart of veal stock, salt, cayenne, and three heads of celery (the white stalks only) which have been previously grated. Boil until the celery is tender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000KRV3JK/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Laughter on the Hill: A San Francisco Interlude\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Margaret Parton (McGraw-Hill, 1945)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This slim volume recounts the quintessential San Francisco experience: the ripeness of youth, rebellion amidst soul-searching, parties with poets and much, much red wine. Before she became a reporter and correspondent for the \u003c/i>New York Herald Tribune\u003ci>, Parton lived for a year in a tiny, walk-up on Telegraph Hill.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was autumn now in San Francisco, and wine-making time on the Hill. As I walked down Union Street toward the streetcar I could smell the purple grapes hanging rich and heavy in the hidden arbors behind the bare white fronts of the Italian flats. Great wooden barrels, scoured for the wine to come, began to appear in front of every doorstep, and one day there was the stained old wine press starting its yearly journey from the houses at the top of the Hill down to the late harvesters at the bottom. Each day as I passed it would be moved a little farther down, its heady smell mingling with the warm air from the basement bakeries, the odors of Provolone, salami, and black olives from the dim Italian groceries, the acid reek of the dark, male-frequented alleys, the salt wind from the Pacific.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000OKQFFA/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>This is San Francisco: A Classic Portrait of the City\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Robert O'Brien (Whittlesey House, 1948)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>For catching the City in its many moods, there's no better than Robert O'Brien's street-by-street study. He trained his eyes and ears onto the quirky characters who flocked to the \"City of Second Chances,\" and his book, recently reprinted, remains one of the best portraits we have of the City.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cross Broadway, and you leave behind the kingdom of \u003ci>chow mein\u003c/i> and \u003ci>jow won ton\u003c/i> and jasmine tea, and enter the realm of ravioli. The vowels you hear now are soft and liquid, and the music is something from \u003ci> La Tosca\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, a step from the corner of Grant Avenue and Broadway is a cafe called \"La Tosca.\" Scenes from the opera are painted on the walls; Caruso sings from the juke box, and you drink a \u003ci>cappuccino\u003c/i>, gray, like the robe of a capuchin monk, and made of chocolate that is laced with brandy or rum, and heated by steam forced through coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a world of round \u003ci>brovolette\u003c/i> cheeses hanging in store windows, and garlic sausage, and \u003ci>capretti\u003c/i> at Easter time. Of the lovely smells of baking bread coming from ovens beneath the sidewalk, of picturesque and brightly colored family washings on clotheslines strung high over narrow alleys, of flowers in window boxes and canaries singing. Of Tony's Shaving Parlor, and the Panama Canal Tagliarini and Noodle Factory and the Roma Macaroni Factory. Of steep lanes on the side of Telegraph Hill, and fat Italian housewives leaning on the their window sills and laughing in the sunshine, and wiry Italian boys playing ball in the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1558217541/kqedorg-20%22\">\u003cstrong>The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Alice B. Toklas (Harper & Row, 1954)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>After settling comfortably for years in France, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas returned to the U.S. for a lecture tour that stretched from New York to California. They weren't impressed with what they ate during much of their journey across the nation but were delighted at last to reach the West Coast. (I've been searching for the \u003c/i>tarte Chambord\u003ci> recipe for years, so if anyone knows how to make it, drop me a line!)\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, we indulged in gastronomic orgies--sand dabs \u003ci>meuniere\u003c/i>, rainbow trout in aspic, grilled soft-shell crabs, \u003ci>paupieres\u003c/i> of roast fillets of pork, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vintagerecipes.net/books/manywaysforcookingeggs/eggs_rossini.php\">\u003cstrong>eggs Rossini\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> and \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i>. The \u003ci>tarte Chambord\u003c/i> had been a specialty of one of the three great French bakers before the San Francisco fire. To my surprise in Paris no one had ever heard of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Fisherman's Wharf we waited for two enormous crabs to be cooked in a cauldron on the side-walk, and they were still quite warm when we ate them at lunch in Napa Country. \u003ca href=\"http://www.online-literature.com/gertrude-atherton/\">\u003cstrong>Gertrude Atherton\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> took us to lunch at a restaurant were the menu consisted entirely of the most perfectly cooked shell-fish, to her club where the cooking was incredibly good, and to dinner at a club of writers where conversation excelled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393084221/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Silent Traveler in San Francisco\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Chiang Yee (W.W. Norton, 1964)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This is one in a long series of books written and illustrated by Yee as he explored cities throughout Europe and the U.S.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crab-sellers of San Francisco's Fishermen's Wharf offer a sharp contrast to my mind from the lobster-seller in Bar Harbor and all the coastal towns of the State of Maine. There every lobster is kept alive as long as possible and there is no sign of any being cooked on the spot. It is the general belief that a lobster should be eaten straight after being cooked, for it tastes best then. Does not this belief extend to crabs? Or perhaps crabs cannot live out of the sea for long? The most puzzling point for me is that \u003ci>Crabdom\u003c/i> seems to lie in the bottom of the Pacific around the west coast covering San Francisco while \u003ci>Lobsterdom\u003c/i> (if any) is in that part of the Atlantic covering the New England States. The Chinese proverb \"Pai wen pu yu yi chien\" or \"Hearing (about a thing) a hundred times is not better than seeing it once\" proves true. Had I not been in both places I should not have realised the existence of these separate kingdoms. Crabdom and Lobsterdom!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eating a whole freshly-cooked lobster or crab, though some small forks are usually provided, involves some action with the fingers from time to time, which in turns involves \"table manners.\" This brings to my mind many little problems concerning Chinese eating manners....We Chinese have two definite styles of eating: formal eating and eating for pleasure. At a banquet it is all formality and good manners; at other times we just enjoy ourselves, and then there is no question of etiquette. That is why some of the typically Chinese restaurants in San Francisco have a number of partitioned rooms, unlike the modern fashionable restaurant with many tables neatly arranged all together. Within these partitions, one can enjoy a meal with one's friends, and eat as unconventionally as one likes without being criticized. Unfortunately this kind of typical Chinese restaurant with partitioned rooms is beginning to disappear even in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Does Spruce Make the Bay Area's Best Burger?",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/exterior-705937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/exterior-705928.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A provocative question, especially for a food-loving town in a beef-righteous nation. It's a question that I can't even answer, really, not having sampled every burger in the Bay Area, or even the smaller list of San Francisco cult favorites. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one thing I can tell you is that the burger at the newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.sprucesf.com\">\u003cstrong>Spruce\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is absolutely, unequivocally, utterly delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/SpruceGarnishes-714284.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/SpruceGarnishes-714261.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a> \u003cbr>\u003cem>photo by Jen Maiser\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I met a friend there on a recent Monday night about two weeks after it opened. (Was this the most highly anticipated restaurant opening in recent memory or what?) We snagged two seats at the bar and settled in for drinks, I with my bourbon stone sour ($8) and \u003ca href=\"http://fogcity.blogs.com/\">\u003cstrong>Jen\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> with her Clover Club ($8), a sweet-tart blend of gin, lemon juice, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.hangarone.com\">\u003cstrong>Hangar One\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> Aqua Perfecta framboise eau de vie. (The former: eh; the latter: double-yum.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though we were splitting a burger at the bar, our meal started with an amuse bouche, a small gift of the world's best beet chips, vivid vermilion and perfectly salted, with a side of horseradish cream. They hit the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-780133.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-780130.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were in a nibbly mood so we shared two orders ($7 each) of housemade charcuterie -- which is surely now the most oft-typed phrase in my restaurant write-up vocabulary -- and enjoyed noshing our way through coins of soft smoked chorizo and glossy slivers of spicy coppa. I devoured the onion relish compulsively, and liked the sprinkling of smoked pimenton. We drank, we talked, we admired the view (chocolate mohair walls, soaring steel trusses, a glittering skylight) and took in the crowd, mostly couples and friends hungrily eyeing their food rather than one another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/burger-741890.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/burger-741887.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the burger ($12) arrived, it was draped, on request, with a melted slice of cheddar but otherwise unadorned, save for a small garden of lettuce, tomatoes, pickled red onions, and thin sheets of dill pickle on the side. Many regulars of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevillagepub.net\">\u003cstrong>Village Pub\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, also owned by the trio behind Spruce, liken the \"bun\" to an English muffin, and that seems as apt a description as any for the thin, textured, somewhat porous bread. My only complaint is that they really overdid it brushing the bun with butter. Other than that, the burger was perfect -- hefty enough to feel good in the hand, satisfying, well-seasoned (an area where the kitchen clearly excels), juicy, and flavorful. Every bite was delightful and I would have eaten every last pickle if my mother hadn't taught me to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fries-759932.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fries-759927.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fries that came with it were served in a silver cup, and assuming they are the same ones that accompany the bavette steak on the dinner menu, fried in duck fat. Holy Deliciousness, Batman! Crisp, just the right side of greasy, and perfectly salted; odd, however, that we had to ask for ketchup (and mustard). Is it really so rare to want these condiments when ordering a burger and fries? They should just slap them on the side and be done with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The service throughout the meal was spot on, though the lamp on the corner of the bar made it hard for our bartender to tell when Jen's drink had run dry. We passed on dessert, even though they were created by Bay Area wunderkind William Werner, formerly of the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay; a girl has to save a little something for the next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I perused the dinner menu while I was there and, despite being written by a devoted minimalist, a few things on it popped out at me -- watermelon and arugula with cured sardines, for instance, and crudo with vegetables escabeche (\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/08/luh-luh-luh-laiola.jsp\">\u003cstrong>did I call this new trend or did I call this new trend\u003c/strong>?\u003c/a>). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm looking forward to my next visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spruce\u003cbr>3640 Sacramento Street \u003cbr>(415) 931-5100\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for dinner, M-F for lunch\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/exterior-705937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/exterior-705928.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A provocative question, especially for a food-loving town in a beef-righteous nation. It's a question that I can't even answer, really, not having sampled every burger in the Bay Area, or even the smaller list of San Francisco cult favorites. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one thing I can tell you is that the burger at the newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.sprucesf.com\">\u003cstrong>Spruce\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> is absolutely, unequivocally, utterly delicious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/SpruceGarnishes-714284.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/SpruceGarnishes-714261.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a> \u003cbr>\u003cem>photo by Jen Maiser\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I met a friend there on a recent Monday night about two weeks after it opened. (Was this the most highly anticipated restaurant opening in recent memory or what?) We snagged two seats at the bar and settled in for drinks, I with my bourbon stone sour ($8) and \u003ca href=\"http://fogcity.blogs.com/\">\u003cstrong>Jen\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> with her Clover Club ($8), a sweet-tart blend of gin, lemon juice, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.hangarone.com\">\u003cstrong>Hangar One\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> Aqua Perfecta framboise eau de vie. (The former: eh; the latter: double-yum.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though we were splitting a burger at the bar, our meal started with an amuse bouche, a small gift of the world's best beet chips, vivid vermilion and perfectly salted, with a side of horseradish cream. They hit the spot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-780133.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-780130.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were in a nibbly mood so we shared two orders ($7 each) of housemade charcuterie -- which is surely now the most oft-typed phrase in my restaurant write-up vocabulary -- and enjoyed noshing our way through coins of soft smoked chorizo and glossy slivers of spicy coppa. I devoured the onion relish compulsively, and liked the sprinkling of smoked pimenton. We drank, we talked, we admired the view (chocolate mohair walls, soaring steel trusses, a glittering skylight) and took in the crowd, mostly couples and friends hungrily eyeing their food rather than one another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/burger-741890.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/burger-741887.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the burger ($12) arrived, it was draped, on request, with a melted slice of cheddar but otherwise unadorned, save for a small garden of lettuce, tomatoes, pickled red onions, and thin sheets of dill pickle on the side. Many regulars of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thevillagepub.net\">\u003cstrong>Village Pub\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, also owned by the trio behind Spruce, liken the \"bun\" to an English muffin, and that seems as apt a description as any for the thin, textured, somewhat porous bread. My only complaint is that they really overdid it brushing the bun with butter. Other than that, the burger was perfect -- hefty enough to feel good in the hand, satisfying, well-seasoned (an area where the kitchen clearly excels), juicy, and flavorful. Every bite was delightful and I would have eaten every last pickle if my mother hadn't taught me to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fries-759932.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/fries-759927.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fries that came with it were served in a silver cup, and assuming they are the same ones that accompany the bavette steak on the dinner menu, fried in duck fat. Holy Deliciousness, Batman! Crisp, just the right side of greasy, and perfectly salted; odd, however, that we had to ask for ketchup (and mustard). Is it really so rare to want these condiments when ordering a burger and fries? They should just slap them on the side and be done with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The service throughout the meal was spot on, though the lamp on the corner of the bar made it hard for our bartender to tell when Jen's drink had run dry. We passed on dessert, even though they were created by Bay Area wunderkind William Werner, formerly of the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay; a girl has to save a little something for the next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I perused the dinner menu while I was there and, despite being written by a devoted minimalist, a few things on it popped out at me -- watermelon and arugula with cured sardines, for instance, and crudo with vegetables escabeche (\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/08/luh-luh-luh-laiola.jsp\">\u003cstrong>did I call this new trend or did I call this new trend\u003c/strong>?\u003c/a>). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm looking forward to my next visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spruce\u003cbr>3640 Sacramento Street \u003cbr>(415) 931-5100\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for dinner, M-F for lunch\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Opening A Restaurant in San Francisco. {Part One}",
"title": "Opening A Restaurant in San Francisco. {Part One}",
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"content": "\u003cp>Opening a restaurant in San Francisco is not easy, especially right now, but not for the reasons why it was so difficult in the 90's or five years ago. It can be said, opening a restaurant at all, in any city, is difficult. But because I have cooked professionally in other American cities, have seen a number of my colleagues open restaurants, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/opening_a_restaurant/index.html\">and have recently begun working for a soon-to-open San Francisco restaurant\u003c/a>, I can say that opening a restaurant here is a difficult proposition, even if you have a lot of factors on your side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Labor: In SF Magazine last month, food editor Jan Newberry spoke to new local labor laws San Francisco is imposing, in an inciting article titled, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfran.com/home/view_story/1713/\">Is San Francisco Killing Its Restaurants?\u003c/a> Although the new labor laws sounds fantastic on paper, they have the capacity to hurt many restaurant employees, mainly back of house employees. For full transparency I will state here that I am, and have maintained, a pro-union status for most of my adult life. The issues are confusing, in part because restaurants are not a necessary establishment the way, let's say, hospitals are. And because I worked for minimum wage for much of my career, I do agree that it should be a living wage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culture: It could be said that although restaurants are a luxury business, they do play a major part in distinguishing the landscape of one city from another. As a person who loves to eat out, I can easily name five restaurants in each city I love and they make visiting there far more appealing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_the_line-754125.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_the_line-754121.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> Restaurant. \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/sets/72157601668423575/\">The Line.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Risks: The restaurant business, and the business of opening a restaurant is only for the crazy and the passionate. Who else would open an establishment considered to have the highest risk factor by banks? Who else would pour their life savings into a business that may or may not be liked by the public, or be sunk by one review in the local newspaper? Who else would open a business even if the glass ceiling on profits is less that 7% yearly? {The margins are extremely slim in the restaurant business.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be said that a restaurant owner is a rebel with a cause; opening a business against all odds. Attempting the impossible, confident in the face of harsh realities. A dreamer, in short. Like many other gambles, a restaurant's statistics change city to city, and after New York City, San Francisco has the highest fail-rate in the shortest span of time, than any other city in the United States. What makes a restaurant stick is as much about the fickle public, concerned with hipness above all else, as it is about the actual food being served and by whom, or what neighborhood it's located in and what month of the year it swung open its doors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Press: In July I spoke on a panel of food bloggers in Chicago as part of BlogHer 07. As the sole professional cook-blogger I had the difficult honor of answering a question from the audience concerning \u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2007/06/why_i_hate_food.php\">Mario Batali's latest vitrolic comments concerning food bloggers\u003c/a>. The funny thing was that, as yet, I had not read his comments on our kind. As \u003ca href=\"http://www.blogger.com/profile/09073546282817094390\">Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic\u003c/a> has recently pointed out in her site \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/alacarte/strong.html\">Grub Report\u003c/a>, food bloggers are made out to be the villians by my profession.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What, or who, Mario Batali is railing against, is those writing for the Internet with no concern for the business they are admiring or panning. Many food bloggers want to have their slice of the famous pie without taking responsibility for the power of their words-- or taking the first slice. And, something many web-savvy people know, their power to have their words found first is all to often used to threaten and destroy restaurants, chefs and owners. Google is an interesting animal indeed, and being a blogger means catching a ride on its gigantic sweeping monster tail, if even for 15 minutes of fame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Chicago I asked everyone to please know and remember that their words were far more powerful than many food and restaurant bloggers have been willing to take responsibility for until recently. I reminded the audience that there are few professions skewered by non-colleague critics publicly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs and chef-owners pour everything they have into new businesses. They know dozens, if not hundreds, of people's lives are being supported, or not, based on the thousands of decisions they make about opening a restaurant. So when a food blogger, whose credentials they know nothing of, representing an individually promoted news source, like a single-authored blog (as opposed to a newspaper or magazine), comes in on the very first night, or within the first few weeks (a time period we know that newspaper critics are going to, yes, visit, but not base their official review on that sole meal) and reports on the experience, good or awful, the restaurant owner is cornered. She/he knows that, (or maybe they don't because few restaurant people are Internet-smart), those blogger's words are going to be the ones their other prospective diners are going to find first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Issues: Why is this relevant and/or important to why opening a restaurant in San Francisco is so difficult? Because blogging and the Internet's speed, as an opinion gatherer and reporter, has leveled and expanded a press playing-field, giving chefs and owners one more thing to reckon with in an already seemingly futile battle of pushing a boulder uphill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I realize I straddle a fence now, and my perspective as a chef and also a blogger has been inexorably altered by having five toes in each grassy knoll. I have made, as I've dubbed it, my Sinead O'Connor mistakes concerning words and quotes and media, self made and not. I know that now I am an easier target for both good and awful press as a pastry chef, becuase I am a presence on the web.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I, like many people before me, am learning the hard way how to open a restaurant in San Francisco, and I am far from being the owner. This piece, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/opening_a_restaurant/index.html\">as well as the series I'm doing on Eggbeater\u003c/a>, is an attempt at reporting the process from the inside. The issues are multi-faceted, dichotomous and oftentimes confusing. While writing I am attempting to sort some of them out, and also speak from and to a perspective rarely found in major press sources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_arugula-757597.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_arugula-757594.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as this is a blog, where comments are welcome and part of creating a place for discussion and public opinion, what are your thoughts on these matters?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>------------------------\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other pertinent links speaking to these political and personal issues on the subject of opening and operating restaurants in San Francisco:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brett Emerson, local chef and food blogger, whose site is the much loved \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/\">In Praise of Sardines\u003c/a>, has been extremely candid in \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/opening_a_restaurant/index.html\">reporting the process of opening his own restaurant, Ollalie\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Bauer, restaurant critic for the SF Chronicle, on his blog, \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/indexn?blogid=26\">Between Meals\u003c/a>, reported on the cost of doing business in San Francisco called, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/detail?blogid=26&entry_id=10982\">Is San Francisco Killing Restaurants?\u003c/a>\u003cbr>{And \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/2006/11/is_san_francisc.html\">Brett's commentary\u003c/a> on this important article.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the year in, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/12/is-public-ready-for-transparent.jsp\">\"Is The Public Ready For A Transparent Restaurant Industry?\"\u003c/a> here on Bay Area Bites, I asked difficult questions after a horrific accident took the life of a young waiter and put the sous chef of Bar Crudo in the hospital.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last November \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/stories/2006/11/06/daily33.html\">SF Business Times reported on\u003c/a> an enigmatic lawsuit the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ggra.org/content.asp?menuid=1243\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association\u003c/a> filed against San Francisco about the newly imposed labor laws.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Opening a restaurant in San Francisco is not easy, especially right now, but not for the reasons why it was so difficult in the 90's or five years ago. It can be said, opening a restaurant at all, in any city, is difficult. But because I have cooked professionally in other American cities, have seen a number of my colleagues open restaurants, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/opening_a_restaurant/index.html\">and have recently begun working for a soon-to-open San Francisco restaurant\u003c/a>, I can say that opening a restaurant here is a difficult proposition, even if you have a lot of factors on your side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Labor: In SF Magazine last month, food editor Jan Newberry spoke to new local labor laws San Francisco is imposing, in an inciting article titled, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfran.com/home/view_story/1713/\">Is San Francisco Killing Its Restaurants?\u003c/a> Although the new labor laws sounds fantastic on paper, they have the capacity to hurt many restaurant employees, mainly back of house employees. For full transparency I will state here that I am, and have maintained, a pro-union status for most of my adult life. The issues are confusing, in part because restaurants are not a necessary establishment the way, let's say, hospitals are. And because I worked for minimum wage for much of my career, I do agree that it should be a living wage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culture: It could be said that although restaurants are a luxury business, they do play a major part in distinguishing the landscape of one city from another. As a person who loves to eat out, I can easily name five restaurants in each city I love and they make visiting there far more appealing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_the_line-754125.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_the_line-754121.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> Restaurant. \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/sets/72157601668423575/\">The Line.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Risks: The restaurant business, and the business of opening a restaurant is only for the crazy and the passionate. Who else would open an establishment considered to have the highest risk factor by banks? Who else would pour their life savings into a business that may or may not be liked by the public, or be sunk by one review in the local newspaper? Who else would open a business even if the glass ceiling on profits is less that 7% yearly? {The margins are extremely slim in the restaurant business.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be said that a restaurant owner is a rebel with a cause; opening a business against all odds. Attempting the impossible, confident in the face of harsh realities. A dreamer, in short. Like many other gambles, a restaurant's statistics change city to city, and after New York City, San Francisco has the highest fail-rate in the shortest span of time, than any other city in the United States. What makes a restaurant stick is as much about the fickle public, concerned with hipness above all else, as it is about the actual food being served and by whom, or what neighborhood it's located in and what month of the year it swung open its doors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Press: In July I spoke on a panel of food bloggers in Chicago as part of BlogHer 07. As the sole professional cook-blogger I had the difficult honor of answering a question from the audience concerning \u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2007/06/why_i_hate_food.php\">Mario Batali's latest vitrolic comments concerning food bloggers\u003c/a>. The funny thing was that, as yet, I had not read his comments on our kind. As \u003ca href=\"http://www.blogger.com/profile/09073546282817094390\">Stephanie V.W. Lucianovic\u003c/a> has recently pointed out in her site \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubreport.com/alacarte/strong.html\">Grub Report\u003c/a>, food bloggers are made out to be the villians by my profession.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What, or who, Mario Batali is railing against, is those writing for the Internet with no concern for the business they are admiring or panning. Many food bloggers want to have their slice of the famous pie without taking responsibility for the power of their words-- or taking the first slice. And, something many web-savvy people know, their power to have their words found first is all to often used to threaten and destroy restaurants, chefs and owners. Google is an interesting animal indeed, and being a blogger means catching a ride on its gigantic sweeping monster tail, if even for 15 minutes of fame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Chicago I asked everyone to please know and remember that their words were far more powerful than many food and restaurant bloggers have been willing to take responsibility for until recently. I reminded the audience that there are few professions skewered by non-colleague critics publicly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chefs and chef-owners pour everything they have into new businesses. They know dozens, if not hundreds, of people's lives are being supported, or not, based on the thousands of decisions they make about opening a restaurant. So when a food blogger, whose credentials they know nothing of, representing an individually promoted news source, like a single-authored blog (as opposed to a newspaper or magazine), comes in on the very first night, or within the first few weeks (a time period we know that newspaper critics are going to, yes, visit, but not base their official review on that sole meal) and reports on the experience, good or awful, the restaurant owner is cornered. She/he knows that, (or maybe they don't because few restaurant people are Internet-smart), those blogger's words are going to be the ones their other prospective diners are going to find first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Issues: Why is this relevant and/or important to why opening a restaurant in San Francisco is so difficult? Because blogging and the Internet's speed, as an opinion gatherer and reporter, has leveled and expanded a press playing-field, giving chefs and owners one more thing to reckon with in an already seemingly futile battle of pushing a boulder uphill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I realize I straddle a fence now, and my perspective as a chef and also a blogger has been inexorably altered by having five toes in each grassy knoll. I have made, as I've dubbed it, my Sinead O'Connor mistakes concerning words and quotes and media, self made and not. I know that now I am an easier target for both good and awful press as a pastry chef, becuase I am a presence on the web.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I, like many people before me, am learning the hard way how to open a restaurant in San Francisco, and I am far from being the owner. This piece, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/opening_a_restaurant/index.html\">as well as the series I'm doing on Eggbeater\u003c/a>, is an attempt at reporting the process from the inside. The issues are multi-faceted, dichotomous and oftentimes confusing. While writing I am attempting to sort some of them out, and also speak from and to a perspective rarely found in major press sources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_arugula-757597.JPG\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/A16_arugula-757594.JPG\" alt=\"\" border=\"0\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as this is a blog, where comments are welcome and part of creating a place for discussion and public opinion, what are your thoughts on these matters?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>------------------------\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other pertinent links speaking to these political and personal issues on the subject of opening and operating restaurants in San Francisco:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brett Emerson, local chef and food blogger, whose site is the much loved \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/\">In Praise of Sardines\u003c/a>, has been extremely candid in \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/opening_a_restaurant/index.html\">reporting the process of opening his own restaurant, Ollalie\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Bauer, restaurant critic for the SF Chronicle, on his blog, \u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/indexn?blogid=26\">Between Meals\u003c/a>, reported on the cost of doing business in San Francisco called, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/detail?blogid=26&entry_id=10982\">Is San Francisco Killing Restaurants?\u003c/a>\u003cbr>{And \u003ca href=\"http://inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com/blogs/2006/11/is_san_francisc.html\">Brett's commentary\u003c/a> on this important article.}\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the year in, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2006/12/is-public-ready-for-transparent.jsp\">\"Is The Public Ready For A Transparent Restaurant Industry?\"\u003c/a> here on Bay Area Bites, I asked difficult questions after a horrific accident took the life of a young waiter and put the sous chef of Bar Crudo in the hospital.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last November \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.bizjournals.com/sanfrancisco/stories/2006/11/06/daily33.html\">SF Business Times reported on\u003c/a> an enigmatic lawsuit the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ggra.org/content.asp?menuid=1243\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association\u003c/a> filed against San Francisco about the newly imposed labor laws.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Luh-Luh-Luh-Laiola",
"title": "Luh-Luh-Luh-Laiola",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/outside-729828.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/outside-729824.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>When a new restaurant opens, it's hard to know ahead of time how things will turn out. Some places get a lot of buzz but never live up to it, others turn out fabulous food but can't make ends meet. Some places are packed night after night, even if the food isn't anything to scream and shout about. Unless you have a trusted crystal ball in front of you, sorting out a restaurant's fate is usually the job of Father Time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with \u003ca href=\"http://www.laiola.com/\">\u003cstrong>Laiola\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, even before I stepped inside I knew that the place was going to take off. Mostly, because a mere four days after opening -- without a liquor license, no less -- it already had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I rolled up to the old Pizza My Heart location on Chestnut Street near 8 pm on a weekday night. The narrow storefront is all windows, and it was packed full of \u003ca href=\"http://www.azlyrics.com/lyrics/michaeljackson/pytprettyyoungthing.html\">\u003cstrong>P.Y.T.s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, with more hanging around outside, madly texting friends to meet them there. A faint pinkish glow emanated from within thanks to the stunning pressed copper ceiling; it's a very flattering light for all the pretties (and the not-so-pretties, too).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I walked in, I was smacked in the face by the cold, hard truth: Laiola couldn't serve any wine yet. I looked behind the bar at all the shiny wine bottles and sighed. The good news? They were waiving corkage, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nectarwinelounge.com\">\u003cstrong>Nectar Wine Lounge\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> down the street was kindly selling their retail wines at 10% off. I turned to my friend Karen to discuss who would go fetch a bottle, when I got even better news: My friend Brett was just finishing his meal at the bar, and he had more than half a bottle of albarino left. Would Karen and I like it? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's see. Is Thomas Keller a perfectionist?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We plopped down next to Brett and, from our perch at the bar, watched one of the cooks drape thick slabs of succulent-looking slow-roasted piglet over a pile of gigante beans ($19). Plate after plate, the aroma was enough to reverse my unfavorable impression of roast suckling pig formed years ago in a heavy wooden-beamed restaurant outside Madrid. I vowed to try it again one day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laiola bills itself as a \"California restaurant inspired by Spain\" -- and it's heavy on the Spain. A glance at the wine list showed it's all Spanish-grown or Spanish varietals, with most offerings by the individual miniature carafe or the bottle. A clever touch, those carafinas, which hold one-third of a bottle of wine. They look to be a great value, too, hovering near $10 apiece. Rumor has it that cocktails created by Camber Lay (Range, Frisson) will rock the house soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Mark Denham (42 Degrees, Hawthorne Lane, Manresa, Postrio) has created a flexible menu, with a small selection of house-cured charcuterie, a dozen appetizers, a handful of entrees, and a few quick desserts. We opted to share a series of tapas, and loved the spicy salchicon ($6), five fire-engine red coins of pork sausage served on a slab of wood. Laiola's website says it's made from \"a mix of coarsely ground Niman Ranch pork shoulder and back fat seasoned with plenty of Pimenton garlic, chile powder and cayenne pepper.\" Mmm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/laiola-sardines-757031.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/laiola-sardines-757028.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also oohed and aahed over the marinated local sardines, garden vegetables in escabeche ($11), crisp local sardines roasted and served atop baby vegetables like carrots, shallots, and cauliflower, each pickled in their own brine. I'm calling this the dish of the summer. Like the equally good version at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/07/my-nua-favorite-restaurant.jsp\">\u003cstrong>Nua\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, it alternates between salty and sweet, cool and hot, crisp and soft. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The deep fryer was down so we didn't get to sample the patatas bravas ($6), a classic Spanish dish comprised of thick wedges of potatoes dressed with spicy aioli. But the bacon-wrapped Medjool dates stuffed with chorizo, grilled, and drizzled with aged Balsamic vinegar more than made up for their absence. They looked like small brown lumps when they arrived, but they were so smoky-sweet and good that I didn't mind burning my fingers or my tongue to finish them off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was adept, and our knowledageable waitress was full of passionate recommendations. Not all of them paid off -- the side dish of rapini, for example, was undercooked and fibrous -- but given that Laiola was only four days old and besieged by malfunctioning kitchen equipment, delinquent paperwork, and masses of hungry diners, I forgave them their trespasses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/rapini-793766.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/rapini-793764.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We didn't have dessert, but I was sorely tempted, especially after watching Brett slather toast with thick chocolate ganache drizzled with fruity Arbequina olive oil and a dash of Maldon sea salt ($7). It's a dish I've had before, even made before, and I speak from experience when I say it is the epitome of divine simplicity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we left Laiola, it was still buzzing (still!) even though no wine could be sold on premises in this notoriously \"thirsty\" neighborhood. It is already a place to see and be seen, but it is also a place to eat -- and eat well -- and, like the patina on the copper bar, I expect it will only improve with age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laiola\u003cbr>2031 Chestnut Street \u003cbr>(415) 346-5641\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>*No reservations*\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week, 5:30 - 10:30 pm (bar open till 11 pm)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"title": "Luh-Luh-Luh-Laiola | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/outside-729828.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/outside-729824.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>When a new restaurant opens, it's hard to know ahead of time how things will turn out. Some places get a lot of buzz but never live up to it, others turn out fabulous food but can't make ends meet. Some places are packed night after night, even if the food isn't anything to scream and shout about. Unless you have a trusted crystal ball in front of you, sorting out a restaurant's fate is usually the job of Father Time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with \u003ca href=\"http://www.laiola.com/\">\u003cstrong>Laiola\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, even before I stepped inside I knew that the place was going to take off. Mostly, because a mere four days after opening -- without a liquor license, no less -- it already had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I rolled up to the old Pizza My Heart location on Chestnut Street near 8 pm on a weekday night. The narrow storefront is all windows, and it was packed full of \u003ca href=\"http://www.azlyrics.com/lyrics/michaeljackson/pytprettyyoungthing.html\">\u003cstrong>P.Y.T.s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, with more hanging around outside, madly texting friends to meet them there. A faint pinkish glow emanated from within thanks to the stunning pressed copper ceiling; it's a very flattering light for all the pretties (and the not-so-pretties, too).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I walked in, I was smacked in the face by the cold, hard truth: Laiola couldn't serve any wine yet. I looked behind the bar at all the shiny wine bottles and sighed. The good news? They were waiving corkage, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.nectarwinelounge.com\">\u003cstrong>Nectar Wine Lounge\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> down the street was kindly selling their retail wines at 10% off. I turned to my friend Karen to discuss who would go fetch a bottle, when I got even better news: My friend Brett was just finishing his meal at the bar, and he had more than half a bottle of albarino left. Would Karen and I like it? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Let's see. Is Thomas Keller a perfectionist?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We plopped down next to Brett and, from our perch at the bar, watched one of the cooks drape thick slabs of succulent-looking slow-roasted piglet over a pile of gigante beans ($19). Plate after plate, the aroma was enough to reverse my unfavorable impression of roast suckling pig formed years ago in a heavy wooden-beamed restaurant outside Madrid. I vowed to try it again one day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laiola bills itself as a \"California restaurant inspired by Spain\" -- and it's heavy on the Spain. A glance at the wine list showed it's all Spanish-grown or Spanish varietals, with most offerings by the individual miniature carafe or the bottle. A clever touch, those carafinas, which hold one-third of a bottle of wine. They look to be a great value, too, hovering near $10 apiece. Rumor has it that cocktails created by Camber Lay (Range, Frisson) will rock the house soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Mark Denham (42 Degrees, Hawthorne Lane, Manresa, Postrio) has created a flexible menu, with a small selection of house-cured charcuterie, a dozen appetizers, a handful of entrees, and a few quick desserts. We opted to share a series of tapas, and loved the spicy salchicon ($6), five fire-engine red coins of pork sausage served on a slab of wood. Laiola's website says it's made from \"a mix of coarsely ground Niman Ranch pork shoulder and back fat seasoned with plenty of Pimenton garlic, chile powder and cayenne pepper.\" Mmm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/laiola-sardines-757031.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/laiola-sardines-757028.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also oohed and aahed over the marinated local sardines, garden vegetables in escabeche ($11), crisp local sardines roasted and served atop baby vegetables like carrots, shallots, and cauliflower, each pickled in their own brine. I'm calling this the dish of the summer. Like the equally good version at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/07/my-nua-favorite-restaurant.jsp\">\u003cstrong>Nua\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, it alternates between salty and sweet, cool and hot, crisp and soft. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The deep fryer was down so we didn't get to sample the patatas bravas ($6), a classic Spanish dish comprised of thick wedges of potatoes dressed with spicy aioli. But the bacon-wrapped Medjool dates stuffed with chorizo, grilled, and drizzled with aged Balsamic vinegar more than made up for their absence. They looked like small brown lumps when they arrived, but they were so smoky-sweet and good that I didn't mind burning my fingers or my tongue to finish them off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Service was adept, and our knowledageable waitress was full of passionate recommendations. Not all of them paid off -- the side dish of rapini, for example, was undercooked and fibrous -- but given that Laiola was only four days old and besieged by malfunctioning kitchen equipment, delinquent paperwork, and masses of hungry diners, I forgave them their trespasses. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/rapini-793766.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/rapini-793764.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We didn't have dessert, but I was sorely tempted, especially after watching Brett slather toast with thick chocolate ganache drizzled with fruity Arbequina olive oil and a dash of Maldon sea salt ($7). It's a dish I've had before, even made before, and I speak from experience when I say it is the epitome of divine simplicity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we left Laiola, it was still buzzing (still!) even though no wine could be sold on premises in this notoriously \"thirsty\" neighborhood. It is already a place to see and be seen, but it is also a place to eat -- and eat well -- and, like the patina on the copper bar, I expect it will only improve with age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laiola\u003cbr>2031 Chestnut Street \u003cbr>(415) 346-5641\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>*No reservations*\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week, 5:30 - 10:30 pm (bar open till 11 pm)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_ext-791427.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a love/hate relationship with wine bars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the one hand, I love a good one. Give me a glass of something silky and bold, a plate of nibbles, and a comfy seat where I don't have to read lips to hold a conversation, and I'm as happy as a paparazzo outside the LA courthouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these days, the term \"wine bar\" is bandied about so frequently, it's lost its meaning. Too often it's just a marketing ploy to encourage folks to frequent the bar of a restaurant that doesn't have a liquor license.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">\u003cstrong>Nua\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> opened as a restaurant and wine bar, I was suspicious. And rightfully so: though the wine list is long and esoteric, it's more restaurant than wine bar (and they've since dropped the term from their website). But I've forgiven them for hopping on the bandwagon because the food is utterly superb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Anna Bautista takes her cues from the Mediterranean, hopscotching from Provence to Andalucia to Italy, and the laidback charm those places are famous for has rubbed off on the four-month-old restaurant. On two of our visits, we made a reservation at the last minute -- I'm talking 4:30 pm on Saturday for a 7:30 table that night -- and on the third we changed the time. (Twice. What can I say? I'm indecisive.) Every time they were accommodating, and even sat us early.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_int-707506.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua is clearly cultivating a neighborhood vibe, and when the weather permits, they fling open the front windows accordion-style to better channel the energy of their North Beach surroundings. The comfortable interior is what I'd call retro-modern, with color-blocked orange and cream leather banquettes, and shades of cool blue, orange, and honey-brown throughout. The staff is friendly, they split plates and glasses of wine without being asked if they know you plan to share, and they're knowledgeable about the wine list. On each visit, we enjoyed unfamiliar wines, like a Spanish Crianza from Bierzo to a white wine from Greece. My only quibble with the wine service is that the pours were on the small side our first two visits, but by the third they'd normalized. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food, however, is outstanding, and it's why Nua has become my new favorite restaurant. Each meal began with a small plate of foccacia bread and a pool of golden-green olive oil. The menu is loosely divided into small and large plates so you can go the appetizer-entree route, or graze on a series of small plates (though the waitstaff doesn't explicitly advertise that option). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_sardines-737526.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered the sardines escabeche ($10) twice. Two meaty slabs of fish were arranged on a landscape of crisp Blue Lake green beans, miniature cauliflower florets, sweet pickled shallots, and currants. The sardines tasted light and fresh, and the dish teetered pleasantly between crisp and soft, tart and sweet, surf and earth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_cauli-758730.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also ordered the side of roasted cauliflower with capers, pine nuts, and parsley ($5) each time. If you aren't a cauliflower fan, a bowl of this will change your mind. Roasting caramelizes and crisps up the tiny white florets, and the zesty dressing of olive oil, capers, and parsley makes them positively addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_salad-717581.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initially I balked at ordering the endive salad with white peaches, blue cheese, and hazelnuts ($9); it just sounded humdrum. But one bite changed my mind. The peaches were Platonic examples of their species -- sweet, juicy, floral, and full-flavored. There was just enough champagne-tarragon vinaigrette to match the bracing blue cheese and bitter endive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_piquillo-782377.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piquillo peppers ($9) we ordered on visit two were stuffed with a whipped salt cod and potato brandade, flash-fried, and served with a sauce of garlic, shallots, and parsley as well as some frilly frisee fronds. They were good, but they didn't get my tail wagging as much as other things did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Parisian herbed gnocchi ($14) melted in my mouth, and the baby artichokes and mushrooms created an earthy stew around them. The best part about the gambas al ajillo ($11) weren't the plump shrimp, but the fiery broth they were bathed in. When the prawns were gone, I used the foccacia fingers to soak up the robust juices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housemade merquez sausage offset with a cucumber, fennel, and tomato salad ($13) tempted us on the first visit, and I loved the contrast of hot and cold layered within the dish. But the veal and pork albondigas ($8) may have edged it out as my favorite meat dish. The meatballs were soft but held their shape, and the flavor was so clean and subtle that I could almost taste the milk fed to the little calf. The almond bread sauce was a revelation -- no tomato to strongarm the delicate morsels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_albondigas-739397.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the small plates, entrees are lighter than they are heavy, and bursting with flavor. A recent seafood risotto with corn ($20) tasted of summer, while the quail\u003cbr>was accented with a plucky plum sauce and crisp green beans. Though portions were generous, neither left us feeling like we'd overeaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry fromage blanc tart ($7.50) was a light, fresh way to end the meal, but it was the butterscotch pot de creme ($7.50) we found ourselves oohing and aahing over time after time. Unlike its beloved Zuni cousin, this is a plain pot de creme, flecked with vanilla and covered in a layer of rich, supple butterscotch sauce. The creaminess of the custard is the perfect canvas for sweet butterscotch, though they ought to think carefully about the cookies served alongside. The almond cookie complimented the butterscotch beautifully, but the rich chocolate brownie battled the sweeter pot de creme all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_pot-798099.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Nua, the food isn't flagrantly experimental, but it is flawless. The wine list is full of surprises, the staff is easy-going, and the atmosphere is pleasant. No matter what you call it, that's my favorite kind of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This review was based on 3 anonymous visits.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua\u003cbr>550 Green Street at Columbus\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 433-4000\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Anna Bautista takes her cues from the Mediterranean, hopscotching from Provence to Andalucia to Italy, and the laidback charm those places are famous for has rubbed off on the four-month-old restaurant. On two of our visits, we made a reservation at the last minute -- I'm talking 4:30 pm on Saturday for a 7:30 table that night -- and on the third we changed the time. (Twice. What can I say? I'm indecisive.) Every time they were accommodating, and even sat us early.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_int-707506.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua is clearly cultivating a neighborhood vibe, and when the weather permits, they fling open the front windows accordion-style to better channel the energy of their North Beach surroundings. The comfortable interior is what I'd call retro-modern, with color-blocked orange and cream leather banquettes, and shades of cool blue, orange, and honey-brown throughout. The staff is friendly, they split plates and glasses of wine without being asked if they know you plan to share, and they're knowledgeable about the wine list. On each visit, we enjoyed unfamiliar wines, like a Spanish Crianza from Bierzo to a white wine from Greece. My only quibble with the wine service is that the pours were on the small side our first two visits, but by the third they'd normalized. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food, however, is outstanding, and it's why Nua has become my new favorite restaurant. Each meal began with a small plate of foccacia bread and a pool of golden-green olive oil. The menu is loosely divided into small and large plates so you can go the appetizer-entree route, or graze on a series of small plates (though the waitstaff doesn't explicitly advertise that option). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_sardines-737526.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered the sardines escabeche ($10) twice. Two meaty slabs of fish were arranged on a landscape of crisp Blue Lake green beans, miniature cauliflower florets, sweet pickled shallots, and currants. The sardines tasted light and fresh, and the dish teetered pleasantly between crisp and soft, tart and sweet, surf and earth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_cauli-758730.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also ordered the side of roasted cauliflower with capers, pine nuts, and parsley ($5) each time. If you aren't a cauliflower fan, a bowl of this will change your mind. Roasting caramelizes and crisps up the tiny white florets, and the zesty dressing of olive oil, capers, and parsley makes them positively addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_salad-717581.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initially I balked at ordering the endive salad with white peaches, blue cheese, and hazelnuts ($9); it just sounded humdrum. But one bite changed my mind. The peaches were Platonic examples of their species -- sweet, juicy, floral, and full-flavored. There was just enough champagne-tarragon vinaigrette to match the bracing blue cheese and bitter endive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_piquillo-782377.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The piquillo peppers ($9) we ordered on visit two were stuffed with a whipped salt cod and potato brandade, flash-fried, and served with a sauce of garlic, shallots, and parsley as well as some frilly frisee fronds. They were good, but they didn't get my tail wagging as much as other things did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Parisian herbed gnocchi ($14) melted in my mouth, and the baby artichokes and mushrooms created an earthy stew around them. The best part about the gambas al ajillo ($11) weren't the plump shrimp, but the fiery broth they were bathed in. When the prawns were gone, I used the foccacia fingers to soak up the robust juices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Housemade merquez sausage offset with a cucumber, fennel, and tomato salad ($13) tempted us on the first visit, and I loved the contrast of hot and cold layered within the dish. But the veal and pork albondigas ($8) may have edged it out as my favorite meat dish. The meatballs were soft but held their shape, and the flavor was so clean and subtle that I could almost taste the milk fed to the little calf. The almond bread sauce was a revelation -- no tomato to strongarm the delicate morsels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_albondigas-739397.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the small plates, entrees are lighter than they are heavy, and bursting with flavor. A recent seafood risotto with corn ($20) tasted of summer, while the quail\u003cbr>was accented with a plucky plum sauce and crisp green beans. Though portions were generous, neither left us feeling like we'd overeaten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blueberry fromage blanc tart ($7.50) was a light, fresh way to end the meal, but it was the butterscotch pot de creme ($7.50) we found ourselves oohing and aahing over time after time. Unlike its beloved Zuni cousin, this is a plain pot de creme, flecked with vanilla and covered in a layer of rich, supple butterscotch sauce. The creaminess of the custard is the perfect canvas for sweet butterscotch, though they ought to think carefully about the cookies served alongside. The almond cookie complimented the butterscotch beautifully, but the rich chocolate brownie battled the sweeter pot de creme all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nua_pot-798099.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Nua, the food isn't flagrantly experimental, but it is flawless. The wine list is full of surprises, the staff is easy-going, and the atmosphere is pleasant. No matter what you call it, that's my favorite kind of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Note: This review was based on 3 anonymous visits.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nua\u003cbr>550 Green Street at Columbus\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 433-4000\u003cbr>Open 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3886.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disclaimer: this is not an \"Official Restaurant Review,\" it is merely a mention of a place to eat I loved when I was in Portland last. \u003ca href=\"http://www.clydecommon.com/\">Clyde Common\u003c/a> is the name. \u003ca href=\"http://www.acehotel.com/portland/\">Ace Hotel\u003c/a> is its location. I ate there once for each lunch and dinner a few days apart. And I would go there tomorrow if it were not an eleven hour drive away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a favorite restaurant in NYC. It doesn't seem possible to single one place out on a flat, tiny island teeming with enough restaurants to fit on a small continent. But I do. And I send anyone there who asks me for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/06/new-york-city-eating.jsp\">NYC eating recommendations\u003c/a>. My favorite place to eat in my old home town is \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a>, a slip of an eatery on first street crammed tight with tables and exceptionally happy waiters. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-rogue-chef-tells-all\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a> is one of the most down-to-earth chefs I have the pleasure of knowing. Her food is not exceptionally innovative. She doesn't wow with new spices or chemical induced textures. There's little on the menu you've never heard of or eaten before, albeit in some other form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3906.JPG\">\u003cbr>Cauliflower soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Prune's food is brilliant. It's simultaneously inspired and soulful, flavorful and simple, honest and satisfying. There are traditional pairings, and seasonal ideas. But somehow, when Gabrielle puts these proteins and vegs together, something like earthy faerie dust gets thrown in, a dash of whimsy, a pinch of what-the-hell and voila, a Vogue-ing, lip syncing, twink of a beautiful creature is born. Always delicious, often exclamatorily so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why on earth am I waxing poetic about Prune when I began by talking about a new restaurant in Portland, Oregon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4015.JPG\">\u003cbr>Ace, A Friendly Hotel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the food at Clyde Common is also inspired, whimsical, down-to-earth, laid back, seasonal, exceptionally delicious at times, and it could turn into my favorite restaurant in Portland if I'm not careful. I don't think the chef behind its menu is as brilliant as Gabrielle, but at least he's reaching, standing on the diving board' edge, toes dangling. Most of the cooks in the kitchen understand how to cook, and many know finesse and flourish are important parts of making a dish day after night after day still taste good. I'm as big a fan of consistency as the next diner, but eating in a plated-food factory is not my idea of a great meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I go out to eat I want to be tempted, turned-on, pushed, inspired, and given too many options to choose from. I want to see items that sound intriguing but not too wacky, ones I never would have thought to do myself. Appetizers like, \"asparagus with caul fat wrapped egg,\" \"beef tongue, seared scallop, beets and tomato jam,\" \"chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise,\" \"fennel sausage, octopus, fried potatoes and ink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3874.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Words. On a page looking torn from a child's 1950's blue-lined notebook. Typewriter written letters, in all their skewed arty loveliness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For design is our first visual. Our first amuse bouche. The way she styles her hair, and the strands which refuse to be bound, falling lightly at her collarbone. The way he suavely matches green pinstripes with a shiny blue tie. The way the light in the room greets you, soft from a few dozen candles, and a menu with the restaurant's name in red rubber stamp ink and today's date in black, upper left hand column, in a hurried angle. You're going to get a special meal no one else will get. Unique. Just like you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3904.JPG\">\u003cbr>Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's always the moment. The dish that makes the rest of the menu fall away, West Side Story style. You take a bite and you wish you didn't have to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise 9.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You moan audibly. You say, \"[expletive deleted] yeah!\" And then you consider ordering one for dessert. If Clyde Common pleases you in no other way but the way you feel when this exquisitely delicious combination of inspiration, technique, texture and flavor reach your mouth and then your taste buds, so be it. Leave happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or go on to order the \"fishboard\" of the day, a generous side dish of \"roast cauliflower,\" \"seared chicken thighs/pork shank, refried peanuts, frisee salad and pork jus,\" or \"risotto: fennel, finicchiona, walnuts and grano padano.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3888.JPG\">\u003cbr>French Fried Potatoes with Harissa and Creme Fraiche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common is not for the vegetarian in you. It's for the adventurous, slightly silly, open- minded diner. People are pretty but casual. If you sit near the kitchen be prepared for a conversation with the person plating your salads and desserts. Cooks are white-jacketless, heavily tattooed and young enough to look like college drop-outs. Think Zuni Cafe meets Blue Plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately the desserts are too sweet, boring and sloppily plated. Someone had a good idea but not the skill or follow-through to make it taste good enough to order again. Dessert as afterthought: not my favorite way to end a blush producing meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Believe me when I tell you to walk a few blocks into the Pearl District and go to \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a> for dessert. Or drive 15 minutes across one of Portland's beautiful bridges to SE for desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ripepdx.com/\">ClarkLewis\u003c/a>. Or plan ahead and stop into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sahagunchocolates.com/theshop.php\">Sahagun\u003c/a> for sumptuous chocolates... Any of these three options will satisfy any sweet, seasonal craving you might have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common, Domestic & Foreign Cooking\u003cbr> SW 10th and Stark in the Ace Hotel\u003cbr> 503.228.3333\u003cbr> Monday - Thursday open 5 until late\u003cbr> Friday - Saturday open 5 until later\u003cbr> Open Sundays starting June 17th\u003cbr>{\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/sets/72157600960863175/\">More photographs here\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3886.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Disclaimer: this is not an \"Official Restaurant Review,\" it is merely a mention of a place to eat I loved when I was in Portland last. \u003ca href=\"http://www.clydecommon.com/\">Clyde Common\u003c/a> is the name. \u003ca href=\"http://www.acehotel.com/portland/\">Ace Hotel\u003c/a> is its location. I ate there once for each lunch and dinner a few days apart. And I would go there tomorrow if it were not an eleven hour drive away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a favorite restaurant in NYC. It doesn't seem possible to single one place out on a flat, tiny island teeming with enough restaurants to fit on a small continent. But I do. And I send anyone there who asks me for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/06/new-york-city-eating.jsp\">NYC eating recommendations\u003c/a>. My favorite place to eat in my old home town is \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a>, a slip of an eatery on first street crammed tight with tables and exceptionally happy waiters. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/a-rogue-chef-tells-all\">Gabrielle Hamilton\u003c/a> is one of the most down-to-earth chefs I have the pleasure of knowing. Her food is not exceptionally innovative. She doesn't wow with new spices or chemical induced textures. There's little on the menu you've never heard of or eaten before, albeit in some other form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3906.JPG\">\u003cbr>Cauliflower soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Prune's food is brilliant. It's simultaneously inspired and soulful, flavorful and simple, honest and satisfying. There are traditional pairings, and seasonal ideas. But somehow, when Gabrielle puts these proteins and vegs together, something like earthy faerie dust gets thrown in, a dash of whimsy, a pinch of what-the-hell and voila, a Vogue-ing, lip syncing, twink of a beautiful creature is born. Always delicious, often exclamatorily so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why on earth am I waxing poetic about Prune when I began by talking about a new restaurant in Portland, Oregon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_4015.JPG\">\u003cbr>Ace, A Friendly Hotel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because the food at Clyde Common is also inspired, whimsical, down-to-earth, laid back, seasonal, exceptionally delicious at times, and it could turn into my favorite restaurant in Portland if I'm not careful. I don't think the chef behind its menu is as brilliant as Gabrielle, but at least he's reaching, standing on the diving board' edge, toes dangling. Most of the cooks in the kitchen understand how to cook, and many know finesse and flourish are important parts of making a dish day after night after day still taste good. I'm as big a fan of consistency as the next diner, but eating in a plated-food factory is not my idea of a great meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I go out to eat I want to be tempted, turned-on, pushed, inspired, and given too many options to choose from. I want to see items that sound intriguing but not too wacky, ones I never would have thought to do myself. Appetizers like, \"asparagus with caul fat wrapped egg,\" \"beef tongue, seared scallop, beets and tomato jam,\" \"chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise,\" \"fennel sausage, octopus, fried potatoes and ink.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3874.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Words. On a page looking torn from a child's 1950's blue-lined notebook. Typewriter written letters, in all their skewed arty loveliness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For design is our first visual. Our first amuse bouche. The way she styles her hair, and the strands which refuse to be bound, falling lightly at her collarbone. The way he suavely matches green pinstripes with a shiny blue tie. The way the light in the room greets you, soft from a few dozen candles, and a menu with the restaurant's name in red rubber stamp ink and today's date in black, upper left hand column, in a hurried angle. You're going to get a special meal no one else will get. Unique. Just like you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3904.JPG\">\u003cbr>Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there's always the moment. The dish that makes the rest of the menu fall away, West Side Story style. You take a bite and you wish you didn't have to share.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>chicken-fried chicken liver, cucumber salad and citrus mayonaise 9.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You moan audibly. You say, \"[expletive deleted] yeah!\" And then you consider ordering one for dessert. If Clyde Common pleases you in no other way but the way you feel when this exquisitely delicious combination of inspiration, technique, texture and flavor reach your mouth and then your taste buds, so be it. Leave happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or go on to order the \"fishboard\" of the day, a generous side dish of \"roast cauliflower,\" \"seared chicken thighs/pork shank, refried peanuts, frisee salad and pork jus,\" or \"risotto: fennel, finicchiona, walnuts and grano padano.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_3888.JPG\">\u003cbr>French Fried Potatoes with Harissa and Creme Fraiche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common is not for the vegetarian in you. It's for the adventurous, slightly silly, open- minded diner. People are pretty but casual. If you sit near the kitchen be prepared for a conversation with the person plating your salads and desserts. Cooks are white-jacketless, heavily tattooed and young enough to look like college drop-outs. Think Zuni Cafe meets Blue Plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately the desserts are too sweet, boring and sloppily plated. Someone had a good idea but not the skill or follow-through to make it taste good enough to order again. Dessert as afterthought: not my favorite way to end a blush producing meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Believe me when I tell you to walk a few blocks into the Pearl District and go to \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a> for dessert. Or drive 15 minutes across one of Portland's beautiful bridges to SE for desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ripepdx.com/\">ClarkLewis\u003c/a>. Or plan ahead and stop into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sahagunchocolates.com/theshop.php\">Sahagun\u003c/a> for sumptuous chocolates... Any of these three options will satisfy any sweet, seasonal craving you might have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clyde Common, Domestic & Foreign Cooking\u003cbr> SW 10th and Stark in the Ace Hotel\u003cbr> 503.228.3333\u003cbr> Monday - Thursday open 5 until late\u003cbr> Friday - Saturday open 5 until later\u003cbr> Open Sundays starting June 17th\u003cbr>{\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/sets/72157600960863175/\">More photographs here\u003c/a>.}\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>This past week, Joy over at \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.meshsf.com/blogs/restaurantwhore.html\">Confessions of a Restaurant Whore\u003c/a>\u003c/b> pointed me to a disturbingly addictive new site.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on official local inspections, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cleanscores.com/\">CleanScores\u003c/a>\u003c/b> will tell you all the gory details about your favorite restaurant. It can tell you their cleanliness rating in current years, past years, and even give details about what Major, Moderate, or Minor violations the restaurant incurred. At this time, CleanScores is only dishing the dirt on San Francisco restaurants (lucky us!), but note that they have plans to cover more infracted ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joy asked this question:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Riddle me this, though: why, oh why, is it a greater violation to have a few dirty utensils than it is to have rats and mice in your kitchen? I could give two shits if my chef is downing a beer while s/he cooks, but allowing roaches to throw a little party in the back room? Not cool, bitches, not cool. That's the health department's fault, though, not the fault of Clean Scores so don't hold it against them.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My burning question for CleanScores has to do with listing previous years/ratings: it appears that these years are clickable, which is great because I would love to see why \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cleanscores.com/1883/Kokkari\">Kokkari\u003c/a>\u003c/b> got a 75 in 2003 as opposed to their current 94, yet when I do click on the 2003 report, nothing happens. Is that a bug or a feature?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the comments at Restaurant Whore, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/\">Sam\u003c/a>\u003c/b> pointed out that the same official information has been \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfdph.org/eh/Violations/Loc_Search.asp\">available online\u003c/a>\u003c/b> for awhile now. She's right, but it's a fairly clugey site and, well, with that clean *ding!* mark on the spoon, and the hip design, CleanScores makes health code violations so darn pretty!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>BREAKING BEER AND BIKE NEWS\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Saturday, July 21st, is the 2007 \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.newbelgium.com/\">New Belgium Brewing Company\u003c/a>\u003c/b>'s San Francisco Tour de Fat. Bring your bike and bring your beer thirst to Speedway Meadow in Golden Gate Park and enjoy free admission, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.newbelgium.com/vibe_tourdefat_sf_07.php\">live music\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, beer, food, and all manner of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbike.org/?fat\">bike events\u003c/a>\u003c/b> at this annual \"bike rodeo.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All proceeds from the beer sales go to benefit the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbike.org/\">San Francisco Bike Coalition\u003c/a>\u003c/b> and the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ridgetrail.org/\">Bay Area Ridge Trails Council\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Now doesn't that make your \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/fat-tire-bodice-ripper-with-cheese.jsp\">Fat Tire\u003c/a>\u003c/b> taste even better?\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This past week, Joy over at \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.meshsf.com/blogs/restaurantwhore.html\">Confessions of a Restaurant Whore\u003c/a>\u003c/b> pointed me to a disturbingly addictive new site.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Based on official local inspections, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cleanscores.com/\">CleanScores\u003c/a>\u003c/b> will tell you all the gory details about your favorite restaurant. It can tell you their cleanliness rating in current years, past years, and even give details about what Major, Moderate, or Minor violations the restaurant incurred. At this time, CleanScores is only dishing the dirt on San Francisco restaurants (lucky us!), but note that they have plans to cover more infracted ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joy asked this question:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Riddle me this, though: why, oh why, is it a greater violation to have a few dirty utensils than it is to have rats and mice in your kitchen? I could give two shits if my chef is downing a beer while s/he cooks, but allowing roaches to throw a little party in the back room? Not cool, bitches, not cool. That's the health department's fault, though, not the fault of Clean Scores so don't hold it against them.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My burning question for CleanScores has to do with listing previous years/ratings: it appears that these years are clickable, which is great because I would love to see why \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cleanscores.com/1883/Kokkari\">Kokkari\u003c/a>\u003c/b> got a 75 in 2003 as opposed to their current 94, yet when I do click on the 2003 report, nothing happens. Is that a bug or a feature?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the comments at Restaurant Whore, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://becksposhnosh.blogspot.com/\">Sam\u003c/a>\u003c/b> pointed out that the same official information has been \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfdph.org/eh/Violations/Loc_Search.asp\">available online\u003c/a>\u003c/b> for awhile now. She's right, but it's a fairly clugey site and, well, with that clean *ding!* mark on the spoon, and the hip design, CleanScores makes health code violations so darn pretty!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>BREAKING BEER AND BIKE NEWS\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Saturday, July 21st, is the 2007 \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.newbelgium.com/\">New Belgium Brewing Company\u003c/a>\u003c/b>'s San Francisco Tour de Fat. Bring your bike and bring your beer thirst to Speedway Meadow in Golden Gate Park and enjoy free admission, \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.newbelgium.com/vibe_tourdefat_sf_07.php\">live music\u003c/a>\u003c/b>, beer, food, and all manner of \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbike.org/?fat\">bike events\u003c/a>\u003c/b> at this annual \"bike rodeo.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All proceeds from the beer sales go to benefit the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfbike.org/\">San Francisco Bike Coalition\u003c/a>\u003c/b> and the \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.ridgetrail.org/\">Bay Area Ridge Trails Council\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Now doesn't that make your \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/fat-tire-bodice-ripper-with-cheese.jsp\">Fat Tire\u003c/a>\u003c/b> taste even better?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"soldout": {
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"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
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"info": "",
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"tech-nation": {
"id": "tech-nation",
"title": "Tech Nation Radio Podcast",
"info": "Tech Nation is a weekly public radio program, hosted by Dr. Moira Gunn. Founded in 1993, it has grown from a simple interview show to a multi-faceted production, featuring conversations with noted technology and science leaders, and a weekly science and technology-related commentary.",
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"ted-radio-hour": {
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"title": "TED Radio Hour",
"info": "The TED Radio Hour is a journey through fascinating ideas, astonishing inventions, fresh approaches to old problems, and new ways to think and create.",
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