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"disqusTitle": "How to Talk Like a Maine Lobsterman",
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"content": "\u003cp>Nothing evokes special occasions like a lobster with drawn butter, but there was once a time when they were considered poverty fare. Fed to orphans, prisoners and indentured servants, lobsters from the Northern Atlantic did not appeal to early colonists. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took the canning craze of the 1950s to spread the taste of lobster beyond New England, and since then, the red, beady-eyed crustaceans appear on casino buffets and surf-and-turf menus in every state. There's debate now about whether the lobster industry is the best it's ever been or on the verge of collapse, but Maine lobstermen are working closely with marine biologists to develop sustainable practices. It's the older, more labor-intensive, back-breaking ways of early lobstering that will save the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working on a lobster boat for one hour -- let alone one day -- will silence anyone who complains about the price of lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster Lingo\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who weren't raised along the coast of Maine, here's a quick primer on lobsters:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Berries\u003c/strong> - Lobster eggs. Conscientious, law-abiding lobstermen will gently return a berried female back to the water after V-notching her tail, indicating to others that she's a valuable resource. Her 10,000 or so eggs, carried on the outside of her shell, will be released after 9 or 10 months, and of these, about 10 of them will survive. That's 1/10 of 1 percent who even have a whiff of a chance of reaching maturity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bugs\u003c/strong> - Newly hatched lobster larvae. More generally, an affectionate term for all lobsters, as in \"Come ovah for dinner tonight for some boiled bugs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken\u003c/strong> - A one-pound lobster. It can take as long as 7 years in the cold waters of the northern Atlantic to grow to this size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hen\u003c/strong> - A female lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cock\u003c/strong> - A male lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Snappers\u003c/strong> - Young lobsters, for their tendency to flick their tails frequently\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pistol\u003c/strong> - A lobster without claws. During molting or fighting, they may lose one or both, but will regenerate them with time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pot\u003c/strong> - A lobster trap, especially in great Britain. Though now more commonly made of easy-to-maintain plastic rather than wood, it still attracts lobsters through a one-way entrance. Famously inefficient, they often allow lobsters to walk away after eating. With a stoic shrug of their shoulders, lobstermen accept this as a facet of Maine's de facto aquaculture, allowing younger ones to feed, escape and breed. In the photo (from Casco Bay) you can see the low-tech bricks that weigh the traps down in the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen\u003c/strong> - The first chamber of a lobster trap, where the bug goes to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Parlor\u003c/strong> - The inner chamber of a lobster trap. Also known as the bedroom, this is where the bug awaits the lobsterman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster cars\u003c/strong> - Crates that are kept buoyed and locked just off-shore to store trapped lobsters until they go to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ghost fishing\u003c/strong> When lost nets, loose traps or fragments of other broken equipment continue to catch and kill marine life. Modern traps have escape vents constructed from biodegradable materials to allow lobsters to escape from lost traps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Keepers\u003c/strong> Lobsters that measure between 3.25 and 5 inches from their eye sockets to the tip of their tails, the legal limits for market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shorts\u003c/strong> - Lobsters that fall below the legal size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shedder\u003c/strong> - A newly molted lobster. It has absorbed sea water into its body, and there's extra space in its soft shell. If you've ever received a gush of water when cracking open a lobster, you probably have a shedder on your plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crusher\u003c/strong> - The larger, stronger claw with courser teeth. If the lobster's right claw is the crusher, it's called a \"right-handed\" lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ripper\u003c/strong> - The smaller claw, which has finer teeth for cutting and tearing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"From away\"\u003c/strong> - People like me who are not from Maine. Summer tourists. Well-meaning travelers and diners who triple town populations and clog up Highway 1 \u003ca href=\"http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-10-best-lobster-shacks-in-maine/?page=2\">\u003cstrong>in search of lobster\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to eat lobster in the Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November of 1920, \u003ci>The Manufacturer and the Builder\u003c/i>--\"A monthly journal devoted to the Advancement and Diffusement of Practical Knowledge\"--reported that California received its first shipment of live lobsters from the East Coast. Layered in a crate with moist rock weed and then packed inside another, ice-lined crate, a little over half of the 600 lobsters survived the voyage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While overnight planes have sped up the trip considerably in this century, finding a good lobster isn't as easy as you'd think. For the most part, New Englanders stranded in Northern California simply waited between visits back east to enjoy fresh, plain crustaceans, free of wasabi-panko crust or truffle oil or even chipotle butter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who'd like a taste without boarding a plane, there's at least one place you can nurse your bug cravings. It's not quite the same as your favorite shack in Harpswell or Thomaston, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.oplobster.com/\">\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Redwood City boasts the closest thing to Down East eating in these parts. They have sister restaurants in North Beach and Napa, but it's the South Bay kitchen that serves up the better bugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A bell near the register let's the kitchen know when to throw a lobster into the pot. Behind it you can see some of the draft beers from both the east and west coasts you can try: Sea Dog, Allagash, Old Thumper, Anchor Steam, Dead Guy, and Widmer Brothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the sides are not particularly noteworthy (even the dried blueberries in the cole slaw weren't really that great) the OPLS serves lobsters whole and uncracked in all their glory. You could order the lazy version, but why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The true find are the lobster rolls, which come with the right bread (baked specially soft for the restaurant) and are packed full of handpicked meat. The \"naked\" version is the purist's choice; a tiny bit of melted butter and mayo arrive on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Redwood City\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>851 Veterans Blvd \u003cbr>Redwood City, CA 94061\u003cbr>(650) 366-2400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Napa Valley\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>806 Fourth Street\u003cbr> Napa, CA 94559\u003cbr>(707) 258.8200\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>North Beach\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>532 Green St \u003cbr>San Francisco, CA 94133\u003cbr>(415) 829-3634\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "Nothing evokes special occasions like a lobster with drawn butter, but there was once a time when they were considered poverty fare. Fed to orphans, prisoners and indentured servants, lobsters from the Northern Atlantic did not appeal to early colonists. It took the canning craze of the 1950s to spread the taste of lobster beyond",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Nothing evokes special occasions like a lobster with drawn butter, but there was once a time when they were considered poverty fare. Fed to orphans, prisoners and indentured servants, lobsters from the Northern Atlantic did not appeal to early colonists. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took the canning craze of the 1950s to spread the taste of lobster beyond New England, and since then, the red, beady-eyed crustaceans appear on casino buffets and surf-and-turf menus in every state. There's debate now about whether the lobster industry is the best it's ever been or on the verge of collapse, but Maine lobstermen are working closely with marine biologists to develop sustainable practices. It's the older, more labor-intensive, back-breaking ways of early lobstering that will save the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working on a lobster boat for one hour -- let alone one day -- will silence anyone who complains about the price of lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster Lingo\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who weren't raised along the coast of Maine, here's a quick primer on lobsters:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Berries\u003c/strong> - Lobster eggs. Conscientious, law-abiding lobstermen will gently return a berried female back to the water after V-notching her tail, indicating to others that she's a valuable resource. Her 10,000 or so eggs, carried on the outside of her shell, will be released after 9 or 10 months, and of these, about 10 of them will survive. That's 1/10 of 1 percent who even have a whiff of a chance of reaching maturity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bugs\u003c/strong> - Newly hatched lobster larvae. More generally, an affectionate term for all lobsters, as in \"Come ovah for dinner tonight for some boiled bugs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken\u003c/strong> - A one-pound lobster. It can take as long as 7 years in the cold waters of the northern Atlantic to grow to this size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hen\u003c/strong> - A female lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cock\u003c/strong> - A male lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Snappers\u003c/strong> - Young lobsters, for their tendency to flick their tails frequently\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pistol\u003c/strong> - A lobster without claws. During molting or fighting, they may lose one or both, but will regenerate them with time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pot\u003c/strong> - A lobster trap, especially in great Britain. Though now more commonly made of easy-to-maintain plastic rather than wood, it still attracts lobsters through a one-way entrance. Famously inefficient, they often allow lobsters to walk away after eating. With a stoic shrug of their shoulders, lobstermen accept this as a facet of Maine's de facto aquaculture, allowing younger ones to feed, escape and breed. In the photo (from Casco Bay) you can see the low-tech bricks that weigh the traps down in the water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen\u003c/strong> - The first chamber of a lobster trap, where the bug goes to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Parlor\u003c/strong> - The inner chamber of a lobster trap. Also known as the bedroom, this is where the bug awaits the lobsterman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lobster cars\u003c/strong> - Crates that are kept buoyed and locked just off-shore to store trapped lobsters until they go to market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ghost fishing\u003c/strong> When lost nets, loose traps or fragments of other broken equipment continue to catch and kill marine life. Modern traps have escape vents constructed from biodegradable materials to allow lobsters to escape from lost traps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Keepers\u003c/strong> Lobsters that measure between 3.25 and 5 inches from their eye sockets to the tip of their tails, the legal limits for market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shorts\u003c/strong> - Lobsters that fall below the legal size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shedder\u003c/strong> - A newly molted lobster. It has absorbed sea water into its body, and there's extra space in its soft shell. If you've ever received a gush of water when cracking open a lobster, you probably have a shedder on your plate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crusher\u003c/strong> - The larger, stronger claw with courser teeth. If the lobster's right claw is the crusher, it's called a \"right-handed\" lobster.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ripper\u003c/strong> - The smaller claw, which has finer teeth for cutting and tearing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\"From away\"\u003c/strong> - People like me who are not from Maine. Summer tourists. Well-meaning travelers and diners who triple town populations and clog up Highway 1 \u003ca href=\"http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-10-best-lobster-shacks-in-maine/?page=2\">\u003cstrong>in search of lobster\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where to eat lobster in the Bay Area\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In November of 1920, \u003ci>The Manufacturer and the Builder\u003c/i>--\"A monthly journal devoted to the Advancement and Diffusement of Practical Knowledge\"--reported that California received its first shipment of live lobsters from the East Coast. Layered in a crate with moist rock weed and then packed inside another, ice-lined crate, a little over half of the 600 lobsters survived the voyage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While overnight planes have sped up the trip considerably in this century, finding a good lobster isn't as easy as you'd think. For the most part, New Englanders stranded in Northern California simply waited between visits back east to enjoy fresh, plain crustaceans, free of wasabi-panko crust or truffle oil or even chipotle butter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who'd like a taste without boarding a plane, there's at least one place you can nurse your bug cravings. It's not quite the same as your favorite shack in Harpswell or Thomaston, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.oplobster.com/\">\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Redwood City boasts the closest thing to Down East eating in these parts. They have sister restaurants in North Beach and Napa, but it's the South Bay kitchen that serves up the better bugs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A bell near the register let's the kitchen know when to throw a lobster into the pot. Behind it you can see some of the draft beers from both the east and west coasts you can try: Sea Dog, Allagash, Old Thumper, Anchor Steam, Dead Guy, and Widmer Brothers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the sides are not particularly noteworthy (even the dried blueberries in the cole slaw weren't really that great) the OPLS serves lobsters whole and uncracked in all their glory. You could order the lazy version, but why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The true find are the lobster rolls, which come with the right bread (baked specially soft for the restaurant) and are packed full of handpicked meat. The \"naked\" version is the purist's choice; a tiny bit of melted butter and mayo arrive on the side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Old Port Lobster Shack\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Redwood City\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>851 Veterans Blvd \u003cbr>Redwood City, CA 94061\u003cbr>(650) 366-2400\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Napa Valley\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>806 Fourth Street\u003cbr> Napa, CA 94559\u003cbr>(707) 258.8200\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>North Beach\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>532 Green St \u003cbr>San Francisco, CA 94133\u003cbr>(415) 829-3634\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Salumi Stars at Bar Bambino",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709367.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bb-709364.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that struck me speechless was the salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know what you're thinking. \"Salumi?\" you're thinking. \"That is so, like, 2006.\" Maybe. But when it's as good as it is at \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbambino.com\">Bar Bambino\u003c/a>, it never goes out of style.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The small salumi plate ($9.50) was the first thing my boyfriend and I settled on during our inaugural meal at Bar Bambino. The selections, which change daily, were chosen for us by Alex Potter, Bar Bambino's salumi guy. He and his batons of porcine goodness occupy a small corner of the main dining room, just to the right of the bar, where he works feverishly to keep up with the plates that circle 'round and 'round the room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764517.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumi-764515.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clad in an impeccable white chef's coat, Alex himself delivered a wooden tray to our table that glistened with creamy pork fat. It was stacked five rows deep with three kinds of housemade salame as well as prosciutto and pancetta. He walked us through each one so that there was no doubt what we were eating -- an oversight too many good restaurants make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is the ciauscolo,\" he said, pointing to the one farthest from me. As owner Christopher Losa explained via email, ciauscolo comes from \u003ca href=\"http://www.le-marche.com/\">the Marche region of Italy\u003c/a>, just south of Emilia-Romagna on the eastern seaboard. \"Ours is done in a bit firmer form than most (it's traditional in the Marche to have ciauscolo spreadable, not unlike French rillettes) because I like to have the purity of the meat flavors and seasonings be fully accessible and not competing with bread,\" he wrote. Bar Bambino flavors their version with garlic and allspice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779540.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/salumicloseup-779538.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next there was a salame toscano, made with red wine and black peppercorns, and a finocchiona, distinguished by fennel seeds, lavender, and other aromatic herbs. I picked up a sliver and held it up to the light. It was sliced so whisper thin, I could have read the menu through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We happily munched our way around the plate, letting slices of barely crisped pancetta melt on our tongues and fighting over the last slice of finocchiona. Christopher says that all of Bar Bambino's own salame is made from Duroc pork that is raised naturally in Iowa. \"But we recently found a Duroc-mix locally (Sonoma) that our next batches will be from. I'm excited to see how the local pig fairs [sic] from a taste/consistency perspective.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In addition to Bar Bambino's housemade salumi, all of which is made in a curing room in Geyserville, Christopher offers a sopressata from \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumeriabiellese.com/\">Salumeria Biellese\u003c/a>, a New York-based artisan producer that's been around since the roaring twenties, and plans to expand his selection by offering goodies from other like-minded producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731887.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/bbinside-731883.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I am an avid supporter of the renaissance in cured meat artistry that is occurring locally and I want to offer the best of Italian-style cured meats that we can source,\" he continued. \"Just as I can't make the best wine, cheese or bread to offer my customers, I know that somebody can do more than we can alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and I enjoyed the rest of our meal equally well, from the \"al ginepro\" bruschetta ($8.00) -- creamy chunks of chicken liver enlivened by a sprinkling of fleur de sel -- to the polpette ($14.75), meatballs in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions, and chard. My only real complaint was the chintzy wine pours (I noticed punier than normal glasses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nuasf.com\">Nua\u003c/a>, too -- a disturbing new trend?). As annoying as it is to pay good money for a Lilliputian glass of vino, it's even more frustrating to be constantly waving down your server.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the meal was lovely, and the salumi some of the best in the city. This little piggie cried \"whee, whee, whee\" all the way home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bar Bambino\u003cbr>2931 16th Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 701-VINO\u003cbr>Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/blueberry_pdx.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been in \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/96-hours-in-portland.jsp\">Portland, Oregon\u003c/a>, now for about a week. Initially I was going to come here for a few days before heading up to a wedding in Seattle. I love Portland, and have since the first moment I saw this small city. But soon after I mentioned that, after two long years, I would be heading up to the Pacific Northwest, I received an inquiry asking whether I might be interested in teaching my \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/baking_classes__1.html\">baking classes in Portland\u003c/a>. Yes, I immediately replied, I'd be honored to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so here I am, for two luxurious, long weeks. I could not be happier. Fourteen days to explore, eat, nibble, adventure, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/\">photograph\u003c/a>, visit, suntan, bake, go to farmers' markets, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">stain my fingers with berry juices\u003c/a>, talk to farmers,\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/sauvie-island-p.html\">berry picking\u003c/a>, make new friends, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/portland_bakery.html\">re-acquaint\u003c/a>, stroll, drive, and just take it all in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some highlights of my trip so far:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A perfectly executed, seasonal, eclectic dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.23hoyt.com/\">23 Hoyt\u003c/a>, in Northwest.\u003cbr>Late night tapas at \u003ca href=\"http://www.torobravopdx.com/\">Toro Bravo\u003c/a>. Find yourself there? Get the grilled onions.\u003cbr>Pecan pie made with real leaf lard at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=870\">Podnah's\u003c/a>. (I'll be going back for the ribs, mark my word.)\u003cbr>An inspired fennel and golden raisin scone at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakerybar.com/menu.shtml\">Bakery Bar\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Perhaps some of the most amazing nectarines of my entire life at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org/?sm=taste\">Saturday Portland Farmers' market\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marionberries.com/\">Marionberries\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Blueberries from \u003ca href=\"http://www.sauvieisland.org/?p=35\">Sauvie Island\u003c/a>, picked by me.\u003cbr>Refreshing, smooth & sweet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toddy_coffee\">cold-steeped iced coffee\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=974\">Random Order Coffee House\u003c/a>. Their baked goods are also amazing. I have now eaten the bacon-green onion muffin twice.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://stumptowncoffee.com/\">Stumptown\u003c/a> coffee.\u003cbr>Three spot-on, seasonal fresh fruit desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a>. (Jenny Raines, who was a pastry person at Chez Panisse for many years, is the pastry chef there now.)\u003cbr>The best French bread outside of France at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/FoundIt?restaurant=344614\">Fleur de Lis Bakery\u003c/a> in Northeast.\u003cbr>Succulent tacos (my favorite is their carnitas), bright agua frescas and fresh chips at Por Que No? on the hip and hopping N. Mississippi street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With two classes and one week left I am hoping to get jumped up on some of the best tasting caffeine in North America, eat and explore what may be my future home. I love the nooks and crannies of Portland: the self-supporting neighborhoods, the community driven mentality of businesses, the effusive Portlanders who want to make sure I taste and see and go to their favorite spots. I love the trees that make wide arcs of shade, the various bridges connecting west to east, and the feeling you get when you're here. Like opening a business and buying a house are not just possibilities, but realities for someone like me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love living in Northern California, don't get me wrong. But Portland might well be in my future. So it's important that I sniff my way around, pay attention to the details, and have fun while I'm snooping.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/blueberry_pdx.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been in \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/04/96-hours-in-portland.jsp\">Portland, Oregon\u003c/a>, now for about a week. Initially I was going to come here for a few days before heading up to a wedding in Seattle. I love Portland, and have since the first moment I saw this small city. But soon after I mentioned that, after two long years, I would be heading up to the Pacific Northwest, I received an inquiry asking whether I might be interested in teaching my \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/baking_classes__1.html\">baking classes in Portland\u003c/a>. Yes, I immediately replied, I'd be honored to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And so here I am, for two luxurious, long weeks. I could not be happier. Fourteen days to explore, eat, nibble, adventure, \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/93596482@N00/\">photograph\u003c/a>, visit, suntan, bake, go to farmers' markets, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/pdx-pie-dough-c.html\">stain my fingers with berry juices\u003c/a>, talk to farmers,\u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/07/sauvie-island-p.html\">berry picking\u003c/a>, make new friends, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/portland_bakery.html\">re-acquaint\u003c/a>, stroll, drive, and just take it all in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some highlights of my trip so far:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A perfectly executed, seasonal, eclectic dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.23hoyt.com/\">23 Hoyt\u003c/a>, in Northwest.\u003cbr>Late night tapas at \u003ca href=\"http://www.torobravopdx.com/\">Toro Bravo\u003c/a>. Find yourself there? Get the grilled onions.\u003cbr>Pecan pie made with real leaf lard at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=870\">Podnah's\u003c/a>. (I'll be going back for the ribs, mark my word.)\u003cbr>An inspired fennel and golden raisin scone at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bakerybar.com/menu.shtml\">Bakery Bar\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Perhaps some of the most amazing nectarines of my entire life at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfarmersmarket.org/?sm=taste\">Saturday Portland Farmers' market\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marionberries.com/\">Marionberries\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>Blueberries from \u003ca href=\"http://www.sauvieisland.org/?p=35\">Sauvie Island\u003c/a>, picked by me.\u003cbr>Refreshing, smooth & sweet \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toddy_coffee\">cold-steeped iced coffee\u003c/a> at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandfoodanddrink.com/?p=974\">Random Order Coffee House\u003c/a>. Their baked goods are also amazing. I have now eaten the bacon-green onion muffin twice.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://stumptowncoffee.com/\">Stumptown\u003c/a> coffee.\u003cbr>Three spot-on, seasonal fresh fruit desserts at \u003ca href=\"http://bluehouronline.com/\">Blue Hour\u003c/a>. (Jenny Raines, who was a pastry person at Chez Panisse for many years, is the pastry chef there now.)\u003cbr>The best French bread outside of France at \u003ca href=\"http://www.portlandmercury.com/portland/FoundIt?restaurant=344614\">Fleur de Lis Bakery\u003c/a> in Northeast.\u003cbr>Succulent tacos (my favorite is their carnitas), bright agua frescas and fresh chips at Por Que No? on the hip and hopping N. Mississippi street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With two classes and one week left I am hoping to get jumped up on some of the best tasting caffeine in North America, eat and explore what may be my future home. I love the nooks and crannies of Portland: the self-supporting neighborhoods, the community driven mentality of businesses, the effusive Portlanders who want to make sure I taste and see and go to their favorite spots. I love the trees that make wide arcs of shade, the various bridges connecting west to east, and the feeling you get when you're here. Like opening a business and buying a house are not just possibilities, but realities for someone like me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love living in Northern California, don't get me wrong. But Portland might well be in my future. So it's important that I sniff my way around, pay attention to the details, and have fun while I'm snooping.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Coming back to Missouri -- the state of my childhood -- always means returning to a double life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I've come to terms with my family's hyphenated existence here in the Heartland, I'm only just beginning to figure out how to balance the relentless abundance of my mother's kitchen with the city's smoky, seductive barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Asian moms take it personally when you don't eat their food, even when they make more than you can humanly consume. Leaving Kansas City without eating barbecue, though, is culinary sacrilege. I've learned how to fit five full meals into one day, and still I can't fulfill both my familial responsibilities and the extensive research (\"eating\") that my work demands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first thing greeting me at my parents' home: a basket of vegetables pulled and proudly displayed just for me. If you think that CSA box is bad, try throwing away a potato your mother dug up with her own hands.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother doesn't have a computer, so I can confess here: I've been known to compost whole, uncooked vegetables and dump pots of soup quickly and quietly. When she asks, I make sure to say, while checking for BBQ sauce on my shirt or under my nails, how delicious everything was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for me, during this visit, my parents left on a trip of their own. Yesterday, I waved good-bye to my mom at the airport and then immediately called my sister for her advice: Jack Stack's? or Oklahoma Joe's?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a tough call. Each place has strengths and weaknesses, and only a local can offer proper guidance. Back in my day, as they say, it was mainly Arthur Bryant (for the meat) or Gates (for the sauce). This was before national attention turned each of these KC institutions into overrated marketing machines still running on fumes. Before competition cooking turned pro. Before the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rbjb.com/rbjb/kcbs.htm\">\u003cstrong>Kansas City Barbecue Society\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was around to offer not just barbecue cooking classes but barbecue \u003ci>judging\u003c/i> classes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My sister, whose ZIP code still falls inside 'cue territory, said I had to try both. But I only had time for one expedition! Back and forth we went. Did I want burnt ends or ribs? Good fries or kick-ass coleslaw? Pulled pork from heaven or beef with integrity? I couldn't decide -- I wanted it all. But when she mentioned that \u003ca href=\"http://oklahomajoesbbq.com/oj/index.php?main_page=index\">\u003cstrong>Oklahoma Joe's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was inside a working gas station...well, that tipped the scale. I'd cross the state line for that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>A small neon pig is the only clue that beyond the gas pumps lies a working smoke pit.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine a largish convenience store in which the Icee machines have been ripped out and replaced with spare tables, a few booths, a high counter for cutting meat, and a chalkboard menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Of the four salads offered, one actually comes without meat. Lettuce with warm pulled pork sprinkled on top impressed even this jaded pig lover.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The ribs in all their dry rub glory. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I always get long ends. Always. For those who've never ordered ribs in Kansas City, we like to divide our ribs into long ends and short ends, and maybe, if you're lucky, rib tips. The long ends are from the thin, lean, bony front part of the rack (think about the area beneath your pecs); the short ends are from the thick, meaty, fatty half (think love handles). Rib tips are the burnt edges trimmed off the racks and served to those of us who love smoky, charred, crisp bits of meat. Menus will list different prices for long and short ends, as most people are willing to pay a couple of bucks more for the short ends. As someone who loves gnawing on bones, I'm happy to pay less for my favorite cut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The thinly sliced brisket was amazingly tender.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, I was tempted by assurances from my sister's husband that the beef was dream-worthy. I usually don't order brisket when I'm out -- too many disappointments and a girl learns -- but brother-in-laws are the natural experts of barbecue, so I went with a combo plate of ribs and brisket. My sister, thankfully, ordered the pork sandwich; I'd get to taste some of that, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Around here, pulled pork isn't topped with cole slaw. Their spicy slaw, though, is a must-try from the sides menu. I was also lovin' the fries: moist and fluffy inside, crisp and dry outside.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many newer barbecue places, puns proliferate, T-shirts are for sale, and sauces come wrapped in gift boxes ready to be shipped anywhere in the world. But unlike many places old and new, at Oklahoma Joe's both the meat and the sauce hold up to the test of taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Sauce on the table isn't really necessary, Oklahoma Joe's meat is that good, but you can add a squirt of their \"Night of the Living Sauce\" if you like some extra kick in your barbecue.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn't finish the ribs or the brisket, so I went back to the counter to ask for a to-go box. While I was standing there I managed to order half a chicken, a quart of smoky gumbo, some baked beans and another helping of that spicy slaw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm planning to live it up while my parents were away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Back at my parents' house, onion blossoms remind me of the garden.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://oklahomajoesbbq.com/oj/index.php?main_page=index\">\u003cstrong>Oklahoma Joe's BBQ\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cbr>3002 West 47th\u003cbr>Kansas City, KS 66103\u003cbr>(913) 722-3366\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Coming back to Missouri -- the state of my childhood -- always means returning to a double life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I've come to terms with my family's hyphenated existence here in the Heartland, I'm only just beginning to figure out how to balance the relentless abundance of my mother's kitchen with the city's smoky, seductive barbecue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Asian moms take it personally when you don't eat their food, even when they make more than you can humanly consume. Leaving Kansas City without eating barbecue, though, is culinary sacrilege. I've learned how to fit five full meals into one day, and still I can't fulfill both my familial responsibilities and the extensive research (\"eating\") that my work demands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The first thing greeting me at my parents' home: a basket of vegetables pulled and proudly displayed just for me. If you think that CSA box is bad, try throwing away a potato your mother dug up with her own hands.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother doesn't have a computer, so I can confess here: I've been known to compost whole, uncooked vegetables and dump pots of soup quickly and quietly. When she asks, I make sure to say, while checking for BBQ sauce on my shirt or under my nails, how delicious everything was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for me, during this visit, my parents left on a trip of their own. Yesterday, I waved good-bye to my mom at the airport and then immediately called my sister for her advice: Jack Stack's? or Oklahoma Joe's?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a tough call. Each place has strengths and weaknesses, and only a local can offer proper guidance. Back in my day, as they say, it was mainly Arthur Bryant (for the meat) or Gates (for the sauce). This was before national attention turned each of these KC institutions into overrated marketing machines still running on fumes. Before competition cooking turned pro. Before the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rbjb.com/rbjb/kcbs.htm\">\u003cstrong>Kansas City Barbecue Society\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was around to offer not just barbecue cooking classes but barbecue \u003ci>judging\u003c/i> classes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My sister, whose ZIP code still falls inside 'cue territory, said I had to try both. But I only had time for one expedition! Back and forth we went. Did I want burnt ends or ribs? Good fries or kick-ass coleslaw? Pulled pork from heaven or beef with integrity? I couldn't decide -- I wanted it all. But when she mentioned that \u003ca href=\"http://oklahomajoesbbq.com/oj/index.php?main_page=index\">\u003cstrong>Oklahoma Joe's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> was inside a working gas station...well, that tipped the scale. I'd cross the state line for that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>A small neon pig is the only clue that beyond the gas pumps lies a working smoke pit.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine a largish convenience store in which the Icee machines have been ripped out and replaced with spare tables, a few booths, a high counter for cutting meat, and a chalkboard menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Of the four salads offered, one actually comes without meat. Lettuce with warm pulled pork sprinkled on top impressed even this jaded pig lover.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The ribs in all their dry rub glory. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I always get long ends. Always. For those who've never ordered ribs in Kansas City, we like to divide our ribs into long ends and short ends, and maybe, if you're lucky, rib tips. The long ends are from the thin, lean, bony front part of the rack (think about the area beneath your pecs); the short ends are from the thick, meaty, fatty half (think love handles). Rib tips are the burnt edges trimmed off the racks and served to those of us who love smoky, charred, crisp bits of meat. Menus will list different prices for long and short ends, as most people are willing to pay a couple of bucks more for the short ends. As someone who loves gnawing on bones, I'm happy to pay less for my favorite cut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>The thinly sliced brisket was amazingly tender.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This time, I was tempted by assurances from my sister's husband that the beef was dream-worthy. I usually don't order brisket when I'm out -- too many disappointments and a girl learns -- but brother-in-laws are the natural experts of barbecue, so I went with a combo plate of ribs and brisket. My sister, thankfully, ordered the pork sandwich; I'd get to taste some of that, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Around here, pulled pork isn't topped with cole slaw. Their spicy slaw, though, is a must-try from the sides menu. I was also lovin' the fries: moist and fluffy inside, crisp and dry outside.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many newer barbecue places, puns proliferate, T-shirts are for sale, and sauces come wrapped in gift boxes ready to be shipped anywhere in the world. But unlike many places old and new, at Oklahoma Joe's both the meat and the sauce hold up to the test of taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Sauce on the table isn't really necessary, Oklahoma Joe's meat is that good, but you can add a squirt of their \"Night of the Living Sauce\" if you like some extra kick in your barbecue.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn't finish the ribs or the brisket, so I went back to the counter to ask for a to-go box. While I was standing there I managed to order half a chicken, a quart of smoky gumbo, some baked beans and another helping of that spicy slaw.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm planning to live it up while my parents were away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Back at my parents' house, onion blossoms remind me of the garden.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://oklahomajoesbbq.com/oj/index.php?main_page=index\">\u003cstrong>Oklahoma Joe's BBQ\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> \u003cbr>3002 West 47th\u003cbr>Kansas City, KS 66103\u003cbr>(913) 722-3366\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "B Star Bar Attempts Burmese Fusion",
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"content": "\u003cp>Last week, a friend from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tantemarie.com\">cooking class\u003c/a> tipped me off to B Star Bar, the month-old offshoot of \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a> that's located two blocks away on Clement Street. B Star Bar offers a blend of Burmese, Asian, and Western dishes, and though it doesn't outshine the Mother Ship, it's worth a visit if you can't bear BSS's legendary two-hour wait. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though they don't take reservations for parties smaller than six, when I called they were kind enough to take one anyway for the three of us. A nice touch, I thought, and smart for a new restaurant that's trying to attract customers. There's no sign up yet, but if you look for a swash of yellow paint you'll see the words B Star Bar stenciled on the window. We walked in last Saturday night to find some friends killing time (and taking the edge off their hunger) while they waited for their table at Burma Superstar. \"Order the croquettes!\" they advised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742384.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't linger in the large, spare front room, but headed straight to the back patio, which is the place to be. Buddha statues and lush green foliage create an exotic, jungle-y feel for the dozen or so tables, and a few glimpses of the night sky peek out from the tent. There are enough heat lamps to keep everybody comfortable in shirtsleeves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767929.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu combines traditional Burmese preparations with Asian and Western classics. Sometimes the dishes are a mix of several traditions, but more often than not each one sticks to its own. We started with spicy edamame ($3.95), a bowl of green pods slick with red chilies and chunks of garlic. They were fiery, and after a few bites my battle-damaged tongue begged for a break. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710459.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was dismayed when everything we ordered arrived at once, and though the wait staff were attentive, the coursing made it clear both they and the kitchen are inexperienced. The Kabocha croquettes ($5.95) came three panko-dusted orbs to a plate. They're filled with Kabocha squash and seasoned with tomatoes and curry before being deep-fried. They were sweet, as was the addictive sticky sauce that accompanied them. Though the result wasn't quite one-dimensional, I wouldn't have objected to a bit more crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771559.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771557.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eagerly anticipating the tealeaf salad ($7.95), a BSS classic. I was disappointed that it wasn't tossed tableside, and it was missing some of the complexity I loved due to the omission of dried shrimp and jalapeños. But the uniquely bitter tang of tealeaves was unmistakable, and we polished off every last bite. A desperate plea to the management: please, please, please, bring back the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered two kinds of noodles, and my favorite dish of the evening was the kau soi ($8.95)- ramen-like noodles mixed with ground chicken and pickled mustard greens in a coconut curry sauce. The menu calls this bordertown food; I don't know if that refers to Bangladesh, India, China, Laos or Thailand, all of which butt up to Myanmar. It's similar to BSS's nan pia dok, a dish that I once said I would walk through crushed glass to eat, and I would do the same for the kau soi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748997.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748994.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other noodle dish was see jyet ($7.95), thin, long noodles with fried garlic, shredded duck, and cucumbers. It wasn't garlicky enough to wow me, or to surpass its virtuoso cousin, but my dining companions lapped it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723281.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723278.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Asian Niçoise salad with grilled cod ($10.95) is one of the few creations that blends culinary traditions. Field greens were topped with lightly blanched asparagus, fanned avocado slices, shiitake mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, and grilled cod and tossed with miso dressing. My favorite part was the pile of handmade sweet potato chips on the side, but I'd probably skip the entire thing next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755004.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755002.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short ribs with Hawaiian-style pineapple fried rice ($9.95) were hit and miss. The rice was built with juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and grains moistened by a slippery fried egg yolk. The kimchee was bracingly hot, but the short ribs were tough and fatty. If they'd upgrade the meat, however, I'd order it again in a heartbeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We brought our own wine, but they have some decent options by the glass, carafe, and bottle, as well as soju cocktails and the famous Burma cooler, beer spiked with ginger and fresh lemon. After gorging ourselves on noodles, we passed on dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I applaud the Burma Superstar crew for wanting to spread their wings, by far the most successful dishes were the Burmese-leaning ones. If B Star Bar can tighten up the menu, incorporating intoxicating Burmese touches with better-executed pan-Asian and Western ideas, they could have a good thing going. For now, keep them in mind if you simply can't stomach the wait up the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This write-up is based on one anonymous visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>B Star Bar\u003cbr>127 Clement St. b/w 2nd & 3rd \u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 933-9900 \u003cbr>Open every day but Wednesday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Last week, a friend from \u003ca href=\"http://www.tantemarie.com\">cooking class\u003c/a> tipped me off to B Star Bar, the month-old offshoot of \u003ca href=\"http://www.burmasuperstar.com\">Burma Superstar\u003c/a> that's located two blocks away on Clement Street. B Star Bar offers a blend of Burmese, Asian, and Western dishes, and though it doesn't outshine the Mother Ship, it's worth a visit if you can't bear BSS's legendary two-hour wait. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though they don't take reservations for parties smaller than six, when I called they were kind enough to take one anyway for the three of us. A nice touch, I thought, and smart for a new restaurant that's trying to attract customers. There's no sign up yet, but if you look for a swash of yellow paint you'll see the words B Star Bar stenciled on the window. We walked in last Saturday night to find some friends killing time (and taking the edge off their hunger) while they waited for their table at Burma Superstar. \"Order the croquettes!\" they advised.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742384.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/2ndinterior-742379.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't linger in the large, spare front room, but headed straight to the back patio, which is the place to be. Buddha statues and lush green foliage create an exotic, jungle-y feel for the dozen or so tables, and a few glimpses of the night sky peek out from the tent. There are enough heat lamps to keep everybody comfortable in shirtsleeves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767934.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/edamame-767929.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu combines traditional Burmese preparations with Asian and Western classics. Sometimes the dishes are a mix of several traditions, but more often than not each one sticks to its own. We started with spicy edamame ($3.95), a bowl of green pods slick with red chilies and chunks of garlic. They were fiery, and after a few bites my battle-damaged tongue begged for a break. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/croquettes-710459.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was dismayed when everything we ordered arrived at once, and though the wait staff were attentive, the coursing made it clear both they and the kitchen are inexperienced. The Kabocha croquettes ($5.95) came three panko-dusted orbs to a plate. They're filled with Kabocha squash and seasoned with tomatoes and curry before being deep-fried. They were sweet, as was the addictive sticky sauce that accompanied them. Though the result wasn't quite one-dimensional, I wouldn't have objected to a bit more crunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771559.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/tealeafsalad-771557.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was eagerly anticipating the tealeaf salad ($7.95), a BSS classic. I was disappointed that it wasn't tossed tableside, and it was missing some of the complexity I loved due to the omission of dried shrimp and jalapeños. But the uniquely bitter tang of tealeaves was unmistakable, and we polished off every last bite. A desperate plea to the management: please, please, please, bring back the original.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ordered two kinds of noodles, and my favorite dish of the evening was the kau soi ($8.95)- ramen-like noodles mixed with ground chicken and pickled mustard greens in a coconut curry sauce. The menu calls this bordertown food; I don't know if that refers to Bangladesh, India, China, Laos or Thailand, all of which butt up to Myanmar. It's similar to BSS's nan pia dok, a dish that I once said I would walk through crushed glass to eat, and I would do the same for the kau soi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748997.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/duckgarlicnoodles-748994.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other noodle dish was see jyet ($7.95), thin, long noodles with fried garlic, shredded duck, and cucumbers. It wasn't garlicky enough to wow me, or to surpass its virtuoso cousin, but my dining companions lapped it up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723281.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/nicoise-723278.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Asian Niçoise salad with grilled cod ($10.95) is one of the few creations that blends culinary traditions. Field greens were topped with lightly blanched asparagus, fanned avocado slices, shiitake mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, and grilled cod and tossed with miso dressing. My favorite part was the pile of handmade sweet potato chips on the side, but I'd probably skip the entire thing next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755004.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/shortribs-755002.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short ribs with Hawaiian-style pineapple fried rice ($9.95) were hit and miss. The rice was built with juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and grains moistened by a slippery fried egg yolk. The kimchee was bracingly hot, but the short ribs were tough and fatty. If they'd upgrade the meat, however, I'd order it again in a heartbeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We brought our own wine, but they have some decent options by the glass, carafe, and bottle, as well as soju cocktails and the famous Burma cooler, beer spiked with ginger and fresh lemon. After gorging ourselves on noodles, we passed on dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I applaud the Burma Superstar crew for wanting to spread their wings, by far the most successful dishes were the Burmese-leaning ones. If B Star Bar can tighten up the menu, incorporating intoxicating Burmese touches with better-executed pan-Asian and Western ideas, they could have a good thing going. For now, keep them in mind if you simply can't stomach the wait up the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This write-up is based on one anonymous visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>B Star Bar\u003cbr>127 Clement St. b/w 2nd & 3rd \u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 933-9900 \u003cbr>Open every day but Wednesday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Essencia Shows Peruvian a Light Touch",
"title": "Essencia Shows Peruvian a Light Touch",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700499.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700496.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I wrote that \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/labels/Piqueo's.jsp\">the culinary mafia had named Peruvian the new \"it\" food\u003c/a>. With the mid-May opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.essenciarestaurant.com/\">Essencia\u003c/a> following closely on the heels of \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqeos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a>, it's starting to look like the pundits were right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anne Gingrass, one half of the duo behind the former Hawthorne Lane, has partnered with Juan and Carmen Cespedes, a husband-and-wife team originally from Lima, Peru to open Essencia, a 45-seat spot in Hayes Valley. The room doesn't feel small thanks to a nearly all-glass façade that allows for plenty of people watching at the bustling corner of Gough and Hayes. (It's also a great location for nabbing walk-in customers, and outdoor tables are already in the works.) Furnished simply with sustainably harvested red acacia tabletops, pale brown walls, and graphic orange and gold lampshades, the room provides a great backdrop for the folksy Peruvian landscape painting that occupies one wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720390.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720387.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the dining room, the menu is small. Gingrass designed it around Peru's home cooking and contemporary restaurant cuisine, but rooted it firmly in San Francisco by relying on local, organic ingredients (including hyper-local products from neighborhood vendors like \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle Coffee Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.moderntea.com\">Modern Tea\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.miettecakes.com/gallery_2.html\">Miette Confiserie\u003c/a>.) Though some things will be imported, she is also working with Bay Area farmers to cultivate Peruvian herbs and vegetables here at home. The result is lighter food than you'll find at most of the city's other Peruvian haunts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760934.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peruvian cuisine is truly multi-cultural, drawing on Incan roots as well as Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Creole culinary traditions. Ceviche is practically a national dish, so we started with one of the three on offer: sliced Kampachi with creamy hot yellow pepper sauce ($12). This preparation might more accurately be called tiradito, which is distinguished from ceviche by two things: slices of fish rather than chunks, and a lack of onions. The sashimi-thin yellowtail was covered in spicy sauce and garnished with a salad of pickled English cucumbers, soft yam coins, and giant corn. Though I liked the cut of the delicate fish, the sauce completely overpowered it. My favorite part was the salad, which I devoured. I'd like a bowl right now, as a matter of fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779576.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779574.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next we shared artichokes filled with quinoa salad and lemon parsley sauce ($12). The baby artichokes could have been trimmed better to eliminate all the tough outer leaves, but the salad itself was dreamy: cool \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/against-grain.jsp\">quinoa\u003c/a> topped with roasted red peppers, fried shallots, and a subtle, well-balanced sauce I'd love to eat, drink, and bathe in from now until the end of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795503.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795500.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dinner, we went with heartier classics. My boyfriend ordered the \"Lomo Saltado\" ($26.75), essentially Peruvian steak frites scattered with cilantro and served with stir-fried onions and thick slabs of crisp yucca fries. A pink filet with a nicely charred coat was sliced thin and dressed in a sprightly sauce of beef stock, soy sauce, red wine vinegar, and its own savory juices. I plan to order this on every single future visit; it would be the perfect hangover cure if it were added to the lunch menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776892.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776891.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The leg of lamb simmered in cilantro sauce with peas and risotto ($25) tasted, of all things, Indian. I think it's easy to see why, given the ingredients. Though I ran across a few less than tender chunks, the sauce and the Parmesan-rich risotto more than made up for it. Whisked to the table in its very own miniature Le Creuset, the risotto was spooned up tableside. Since the wee pot kept it nice and warm, I compulsively nibbled on it long after my hunger was sated. Was it Peruvian? Not so far as I could tell. But it was damn good. And, like the steak, the portion was reasonable enough to finish without feeling stuffed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Credit for the well-edited and well-priced wine list goes to Luis Maya, Essencia's unofficial sommelier. All the selections are imported, with the majority from Spain and Argentina, and their relatively low alcohol levels make them particularly food-friendly. We enjoyed a 2006 Laxas Albariño ($9) and a 2006 Sur de los Andes Torrontes ($7) to start. I loved the Torrontes, which is a grape more often used for blending than drunk straight up. It had honey on the nose but tasted surprisingly dry. We switched to reds for the main course, but the other real standout was the Pedro Romero Amontillado sherry ($7), which was a beautiful amber color and bright with citrus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736535.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts showcased a variety of Peruvian fruits like lucama and guanavana (also known as guanabana or soursop and similar to cherimoya). The latter is a creamy fruit with citrus and vanilla notes that was perfectly suited to Essencia's fresh strawberry-topped mousse ($6). But the real must-have sweet was the plate of alfajores ($4.50), buttery cookies stuck together with a sinful stamp of dulce de leche. One of the cookies incorporated fresh coconut into the ooey-gooey middle, but I preferred the luxury of pure caramel goodness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761302.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761300.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What ultimately makes me prefer Essencia to the city's other Peruvian-inflected restaurants is the prevalence of lighter dishes. As a result, most of the flavors, both indigenous and imported, really shine. It's also the best kind of neighborhood restaurant: friendly, appealing, comfortable, and reasonably priced. Regardless what culinary traditions influence the menu, that's always a recipe for success. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This visit was a first impression, and the meal was comped. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essencia\u003cbr>401 Gough Street at Hayes\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 552-8485\u003cbr>Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "A few weeks ago, I wrote that the culinary mafia had named Peruvian the new "it" food. With the mid-May opening of Essencia following closely on the heels of Piqueo's, it's starting to look like the pundits were right. Anne Gingrass, one half of the duo behind the former Hawthorne Lane, has partnered with Juan",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700499.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_ext-700496.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks ago, I wrote that \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/labels/Piqueo's.jsp\">the culinary mafia had named Peruvian the new \"it\" food\u003c/a>. With the mid-May opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.essenciarestaurant.com/\">Essencia\u003c/a> following closely on the heels of \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqeos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a>, it's starting to look like the pundits were right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anne Gingrass, one half of the duo behind the former Hawthorne Lane, has partnered with Juan and Carmen Cespedes, a husband-and-wife team originally from Lima, Peru to open Essencia, a 45-seat spot in Hayes Valley. The room doesn't feel small thanks to a nearly all-glass façade that allows for plenty of people watching at the bustling corner of Gough and Hayes. (It's also a great location for nabbing walk-in customers, and outdoor tables are already in the works.) Furnished simply with sustainably harvested red acacia tabletops, pale brown walls, and graphic orange and gold lampshades, the room provides a great backdrop for the folksy Peruvian landscape painting that occupies one wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720390.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/essencia_int-720387.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the dining room, the menu is small. Gingrass designed it around Peru's home cooking and contemporary restaurant cuisine, but rooted it firmly in San Francisco by relying on local, organic ingredients (including hyper-local products from neighborhood vendors like \u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/\">Blue Bottle Coffee Company\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.moderntea.com\">Modern Tea\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.miettecakes.com/gallery_2.html\">Miette Confiserie\u003c/a>.) Though some things will be imported, she is also working with Bay Area farmers to cultivate Peruvian herbs and vegetables here at home. The result is lighter food than you'll find at most of the city's other Peruvian haunts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760937.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/kampachi-760934.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peruvian cuisine is truly multi-cultural, drawing on Incan roots as well as Spanish, African, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, and Creole culinary traditions. Ceviche is practically a national dish, so we started with one of the three on offer: sliced Kampachi with creamy hot yellow pepper sauce ($12). This preparation might more accurately be called tiradito, which is distinguished from ceviche by two things: slices of fish rather than chunks, and a lack of onions. The sashimi-thin yellowtail was covered in spicy sauce and garnished with a salad of pickled English cucumbers, soft yam coins, and giant corn. Though I liked the cut of the delicate fish, the sauce completely overpowered it. My favorite part was the salad, which I devoured. I'd like a bowl right now, as a matter of fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779576.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/artichokes-779574.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next we shared artichokes filled with quinoa salad and lemon parsley sauce ($12). The baby artichokes could have been trimmed better to eliminate all the tough outer leaves, but the salad itself was dreamy: cool \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/against-grain.jsp\">quinoa\u003c/a> topped with roasted red peppers, fried shallots, and a subtle, well-balanced sauce I'd love to eat, drink, and bathe in from now until the end of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795503.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lomosaltado-795500.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dinner, we went with heartier classics. My boyfriend ordered the \"Lomo Saltado\" ($26.75), essentially Peruvian steak frites scattered with cilantro and served with stir-fried onions and thick slabs of crisp yucca fries. A pink filet with a nicely charred coat was sliced thin and dressed in a sprightly sauce of beef stock, soy sauce, red wine vinegar, and its own savory juices. I plan to order this on every single future visit; it would be the perfect hangover cure if it were added to the lunch menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776892.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/lamb-776891.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The leg of lamb simmered in cilantro sauce with peas and risotto ($25) tasted, of all things, Indian. I think it's easy to see why, given the ingredients. Though I ran across a few less than tender chunks, the sauce and the Parmesan-rich risotto more than made up for it. Whisked to the table in its very own miniature Le Creuset, the risotto was spooned up tableside. Since the wee pot kept it nice and warm, I compulsively nibbled on it long after my hunger was sated. Was it Peruvian? Not so far as I could tell. But it was damn good. And, like the steak, the portion was reasonable enough to finish without feeling stuffed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Credit for the well-edited and well-priced wine list goes to Luis Maya, Essencia's unofficial sommelier. All the selections are imported, with the majority from Spain and Argentina, and their relatively low alcohol levels make them particularly food-friendly. We enjoyed a 2006 Laxas Albariño ($9) and a 2006 Sur de los Andes Torrontes ($7) to start. I loved the Torrontes, which is a grape more often used for blending than drunk straight up. It had honey on the nose but tasted surprisingly dry. We switched to reds for the main course, but the other real standout was the Pedro Romero Amontillado sherry ($7), which was a beautiful amber color and bright with citrus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736537.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/guanavana-736535.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts showcased a variety of Peruvian fruits like lucama and guanavana (also known as guanabana or soursop and similar to cherimoya). The latter is a creamy fruit with citrus and vanilla notes that was perfectly suited to Essencia's fresh strawberry-topped mousse ($6). But the real must-have sweet was the plate of alfajores ($4.50), buttery cookies stuck together with a sinful stamp of dulce de leche. One of the cookies incorporated fresh coconut into the ooey-gooey middle, but I preferred the luxury of pure caramel goodness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761302.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/alfajor-761300.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What ultimately makes me prefer Essencia to the city's other Peruvian-inflected restaurants is the prevalence of lighter dishes. As a result, most of the flavors, both indigenous and imported, really shine. It's also the best kind of neighborhood restaurant: friendly, appealing, comfortable, and reasonably priced. Regardless what culinary traditions influence the menu, that's always a recipe for success. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: This visit was a first impression, and the meal was comped. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essencia\u003cbr>401 Gough Street at Hayes\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 552-8485\u003cbr>Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "New York City Eating",
"title": "New York City Eating",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20October%2005%20%20rainy%20053.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you work in the restaurant business everyone you know, everyone you know's friends, in-laws and children, and everyone you've not met yet, comes to you for restaurant recommendations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needless to say I am extremely grateful that \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/\">Chowhound\u003c/a> also exists. For it gets quite tiresome to be absolutely everyone's go to for breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner suggestions. Especially when you consider I grew up in New York City, have lived in London and Napa Valley and the Bay Area is my permanent home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, when I plan a trip to my old home, I very much look forward to what I will eat when I'm there. Will I visit the places where I know the chefs and pastry chefs? Will I haunt my old workplaces? Will I eat all my favorite foods? Will I shop and cook in my host's kitchen? Will I eat at brand name places so that I have something to talk about when I get back or will I just eat in the places no one but real New Yorkers go? Will I eat solely for memory or will I want to try all the new things I've read about since I was there last?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truth is that I eat foods in my old home that I can't find in my new one. I'm fiercely loyal to old haunts, places whose menus I can trust no matter what the current trend and flash-in-the-pan hip happening thang is. I bring my money to the people I love and have the most respect for. Chefs and pastry chefs whose work is something that inspires me, fills me with hope that one day my California home town will embrace these innovations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My upcoming trip to New York will look different from ones I've taken in more recent years. Because I met and be-friended some spectacularly talented people at the \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">Pastry Chef Conference\u003c/a> in May, I will spend some time eating and working with some of these folks. I'll go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.danielnyc.com/daniel/\">Daniel\u003c/a> just for dessert and then with their pastry chef, Dominique Ansel, we will eat at \u003ca href=\"http://www.devinyc.com/\">Devi\u003c/a>, pastry chef Surbhi Sahnhi's post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the sweet theme, I'll make it into \u003ca href=\"http://www.chikalicious.com/\">Chikalicious\u003c/a> at least once. And if I have time, Pichet Ong's new place, \u003ca href=\"http://p-ong.com/\">P'ong\u003c/a>. And then there's always a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.laboratoriodelgelato.com/press.php\">Il Laboratorio del Gelato\u003c/a> on Orchard Street in the heart of the real Lower East Side. Maybe I'll get a kasha K'nish at \u003ca href=\"http://knishery.com/\">Yonah Schimmels\u003c/a> beforehand so I can convince myself I've eaten dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not a trip to New York without one surprising dinner at the diminutive \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a> on First Street. Whether chef/owner Gabrielle Hamilton is there or not, I like to bring her a California gift. This week I'll be stocking up on jars of jam from newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/04/sf_oakland_nibb.html\">Rachel Saunders\u003c/a> so that I can present unique gifts to the people I love. Prune is my favorite restaurant in NYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for the food I grew up with, there will be frequent visits to \u003ca href=\"http://www.veselka.com/\">Veselka\u003c/a> for pierogi, cabbage soup and a chat with my father and stepmother over blintzes. I always have to have one steamed lobster dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/pearl-oyster-bar/\">Pearl Oyster Bar\u003c/a> on the tiny slanted street of Cornelia. When you grow up with steamers dipped in drawn butter and tasting of the chewy clammy sea, no nouveau California preparation of clams will satisfy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be important for me to get sticky with \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/old_skool_shave.html\">coco helado\u003c/a> on a street corner if it's hot, and of course I'll be noshing on my old stand by in Coney Island, ridged french fries at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nathansfamous.com/\">Nathan's\u003c/a> and a cone of pastel green \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/nyc_coney_islan.html\">pistachio soft serve with colored sprinkles\u003c/a> on Neptune Avenue!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28105%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a post Coney Island Mermaid Day Parade de-tox I might head over to my favorite macrobiotic restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelicakitchen.com/\">Angelica's\u003c/a>. I have to get my fix of their kooky \"cornbread,\" carrot spread and one small Dragon Bowl. And if I make it to Harlem I'll be going directly to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/257262\">M&G's\u003c/a> for fried chicken. And if I want to roll out of my bed the next day to stand in line, I might head to \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&um=1&q=danal&near=New+York,+NY&fb=1&latlng=40730917,-73989513,3615824086388571847\">Danal\u003c/a> for brunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saving the best for last, I am over-the-top excited that this will be the first time I'm going to Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming's restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.northforktableandinn.com/\">The North Fork Table & Inn\u003c/a> on Long Island. I used to work for Claudia Fleming at \u003ca href=\"http://www.gramercytavern.com/gramercy_tavern.html\">Gramercy Tavern\u003c/a> in the Flatiron District. This will be my first time seeing her since I threw a party at Citizen Cake for her incredible book \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/037550429X/103-8158779-7425444\">The Last Course\u003c/a>, a must have for anyone who loves to bake seasonal desserts. The day I made the reservation to eat and stay at the Inn I could not sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28110%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, you can see, I will be eating well in my old hometown. Like most people, I tend to eat the familiar when I'm home. I have plans with friends and family, old lovers and new, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/ny_ny_i_heart_y.html\">bloggers\u003c/a>, chefs and pastry chefs. I have adventures planned and I will be taking my feet to places they'll go without direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking for NYC restaurant recommendations, I still give them. But only if you're willing to try what a real New Yorker eats...\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "When you work in the restaurant business everyone you know, everyone you know's friends, in-laws and children, and everyone you've not met yet, comes to you for restaurant recommendations. Needless to say I am extremely grateful that Chowhound also exists. For it gets quite tiresome to be absolutely everyone's go to for breakfast, lunch, brunch",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20October%2005%20%20rainy%20053.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you work in the restaurant business everyone you know, everyone you know's friends, in-laws and children, and everyone you've not met yet, comes to you for restaurant recommendations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Needless to say I am extremely grateful that \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/\">Chowhound\u003c/a> also exists. For it gets quite tiresome to be absolutely everyone's go to for breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner suggestions. Especially when you consider I grew up in New York City, have lived in London and Napa Valley and the Bay Area is my permanent home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All this being said, when I plan a trip to my old home, I very much look forward to what I will eat when I'm there. Will I visit the places where I know the chefs and pastry chefs? Will I haunt my old workplaces? Will I eat all my favorite foods? Will I shop and cook in my host's kitchen? Will I eat at brand name places so that I have something to talk about when I get back or will I just eat in the places no one but real New Yorkers go? Will I eat solely for memory or will I want to try all the new things I've read about since I was there last?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truth is that I eat foods in my old home that I can't find in my new one. I'm fiercely loyal to old haunts, places whose menus I can trust no matter what the current trend and flash-in-the-pan hip happening thang is. I bring my money to the people I love and have the most respect for. Chefs and pastry chefs whose work is something that inspires me, fills me with hope that one day my California home town will embrace these innovations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My upcoming trip to New York will look different from ones I've taken in more recent years. Because I met and be-friended some spectacularly talented people at the \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/pastry_chef_conference_2007/index.html\">Pastry Chef Conference\u003c/a> in May, I will spend some time eating and working with some of these folks. I'll go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.danielnyc.com/daniel/\">Daniel\u003c/a> just for dessert and then with their pastry chef, Dominique Ansel, we will eat at \u003ca href=\"http://www.devinyc.com/\">Devi\u003c/a>, pastry chef Surbhi Sahnhi's post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the sweet theme, I'll make it into \u003ca href=\"http://www.chikalicious.com/\">Chikalicious\u003c/a> at least once. And if I have time, Pichet Ong's new place, \u003ca href=\"http://p-ong.com/\">P'ong\u003c/a>. And then there's always a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.laboratoriodelgelato.com/press.php\">Il Laboratorio del Gelato\u003c/a> on Orchard Street in the heart of the real Lower East Side. Maybe I'll get a kasha K'nish at \u003ca href=\"http://knishery.com/\">Yonah Schimmels\u003c/a> beforehand so I can convince myself I've eaten dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not a trip to New York without one surprising dinner at the diminutive \u003ca href=\"http://www.prunerestaurant.com/\">Prune\u003c/a> on First Street. Whether chef/owner Gabrielle Hamilton is there or not, I like to bring her a California gift. This week I'll be stocking up on jars of jam from newcomer \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/04/sf_oakland_nibb.html\">Rachel Saunders\u003c/a> so that I can present unique gifts to the people I love. Prune is my favorite restaurant in NYC.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for the food I grew up with, there will be frequent visits to \u003ca href=\"http://www.veselka.com/\">Veselka\u003c/a> for pierogi, cabbage soup and a chat with my father and stepmother over blintzes. I always have to have one steamed lobster dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/pearl-oyster-bar/\">Pearl Oyster Bar\u003c/a> on the tiny slanted street of Cornelia. When you grow up with steamers dipped in drawn butter and tasting of the chewy clammy sea, no nouveau California preparation of clams will satisfy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be important for me to get sticky with \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2005/09/old_skool_shave.html\">coco helado\u003c/a> on a street corner if it's hot, and of course I'll be noshing on my old stand by in Coney Island, ridged french fries at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nathansfamous.com/\">Nathan's\u003c/a> and a cone of pastel green \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/07/nyc_coney_islan.html\">pistachio soft serve with colored sprinkles\u003c/a> on Neptune Avenue!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28105%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a post Coney Island Mermaid Day Parade de-tox I might head over to my favorite macrobiotic restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.angelicakitchen.com/\">Angelica's\u003c/a>. I have to get my fix of their kooky \"cornbread,\" carrot spread and one small Dragon Bowl. And if I make it to Harlem I'll be going directly to \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/257262\">M&G's\u003c/a> for fried chicken. And if I want to roll out of my bed the next day to stand in line, I might head to \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&um=1&q=danal&near=New+York,+NY&fb=1&latlng=40730917,-73989513,3615824086388571847\">Danal\u003c/a> for brunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Saving the best for last, I am over-the-top excited that this will be the first time I'm going to Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming's restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.northforktableandinn.com/\">The North Fork Table & Inn\u003c/a> on Long Island. I used to work for Claudia Fleming at \u003ca href=\"http://www.gramercytavern.com/gramercy_tavern.html\">Gramercy Tavern\u003c/a> in the Flatiron District. This will be my first time seeing her since I threw a party at Citizen Cake for her incredible book \u003ca href=\"http://astore.amazon.com/eggbeater-20/detail/037550429X/103-8158779-7425444\">The Last Course\u003c/a>, a must have for anyone who loves to bake seasonal desserts. The day I made the reservation to eat and stay at the Inn I could not sleep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/NYC%20June%2005%20%28110%29.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, you can see, I will be eating well in my old hometown. Like most people, I tend to eat the familiar when I'm home. I have plans with friends and family, old lovers and new, \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/06/ny_ny_i_heart_y.html\">bloggers\u003c/a>, chefs and pastry chefs. I have adventures planned and I will be taking my feet to places they'll go without direction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're looking for NYC restaurant recommendations, I still give them. But only if you're willing to try what a real New Yorker eats...\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>My friend was planning to start his 37th year with a proper feast at his favorite restaurant, Old Krakow. Before the call, I was trying to decide what to do with a few random ingredients that were taking up space in my small kitchen: some spotted bananas, some milk chocolate, a bag of toasted hazelnuts, a block of cream cheese. After the call, I pulled out my cake pans and began baking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci> Bob's Chocolate Banana Birthday Cake included layers of moist banana cake, chocolate ganache filling, sliced fresh bananas, cream cheese frosting and toasted hazelnuts. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't have much time. We (the birthday cake and I) had to be at the restaurant in two hours, so there was no room for any fussiness. Lots of old tricks helped shaved 5 minutes here, 30 minutes there. The most important were:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- To cream still-frozen butter: Cut the butter in chunks with a sharp knife, add to the mixer and wave a hair-dryer over the butter. Occasionally direct the hot air to the outside of the bowl to warm the butter from beneath. (To free up both hands, wet a towel, wrap it in a circle and nest beneath the bowl; it will sit snugly in place as you stir or blend.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Bake the batter in a large sheet pan rather than regular layer pans. With only 1 inch of batter, the cake bakes in 15 minutes. Cutting it crosswise into three or four strips makes easily stacked, easily frosted layers that form a distinctive rectangular cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Prop the cake in a wide-open window. Ten minutes in SF's cold summer wind was enough to cool the cake completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Cream cheese frosting is simple to make, a breeze to spread and holds up well over a couple of hours or a couple of days. The hair-dryer trick comes in good use here, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Use a soup spoon to make attractive swirls on top of the cake. Pressing finely chopped nuts onto the sides on the cake is an easy way to finish the cake while hiding a fast frosting job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Dab a spot of frosting on the platter before placing the first layer down. It will act as \"glue\" to keep the cake from sliding right off the platter and onto the floor of the car.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Place the cake on an upturned bowl or pot to frost the cake. I reinforced the bottom of the cake with a piece of cardboard wrapped in foil. Setting the cake over a tray while coating with a glaze or with nuts allows me to catch and reuse overflow.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although I was a few minutes late, I scored a parking space right in front of the restaurant and arrived before the drink orders were even taken. The folks at Old Krakow were gracious enough to chill the cake for us while we lingered over dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This restaurant is the one reason I make my way out to West Portal. Its quiet dining room is a rarity unto itself, but sitting at a real dining room table, with comfortable chairs and the full complement of inserts, always makes me feel like I'm enjoying a special meal at someone's home. The friendly, unhurried service helps settle me into a leisurely meal. The best thing, of course, is the food itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Garlic soup: so simple, so satisfying.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I always succumb to an entree -- usually the breaded pork chops -- but I'm pretty sure I could enjoy an entire meal of just soup and my own plate of pierogi. Order the borscht if you must. However, the mushroom soup is paradise in a spoon, while the garlic soup's simplicity hides an incredibly fulfilling, flavorful broth. Pickle soup doesn't appear on the menu, so be sure to ask your server; it's a must try for anyone who likes a hint of tartness with their savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're with a larger party, you must try the full range of appetizers, from pickled herring and beef tartar to beet salad and marinated mushrooms. Keep in mind that portions are large. There's a \"lighter fare and sides\" section of the menu, but all things being relative, potato dumplings and kielbasa are lumped in there with mushroom crepes and sauteed cabbage. The kitchen is also happy to split entrees. Our favorites for the evening were the stew, the stuffed cabbage, the duck and -- of course -- the breaded pork chops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>A plate of mushroom-filled pierogi topped with perfectly caramelized onions.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our servers cut and plated the chocolate banana cake tableside for our party. Someone in the kitchen had even piped out \"Happy Birthday!\" on the top in chocolate for the guest of honor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Old Krakow\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>385 West Portal Ave (btwn 14th & 15th)\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 564-4848\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never tried Polish food, this is certainly the place to experience an Old World meal. Old Krakow lends itself well to celebrating special occasions with a comfortable, casual feel. Don't mind their \u003ca href=\"http://dziuggy.com/ok/index.html\">\u003cstrong> totally amateur website\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>; it's proof that you'll get good home-cooking, not slick style.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>My friend was planning to start his 37th year with a proper feast at his favorite restaurant, Old Krakow. Before the call, I was trying to decide what to do with a few random ingredients that were taking up space in my small kitchen: some spotted bananas, some milk chocolate, a bag of toasted hazelnuts, a block of cream cheese. After the call, I pulled out my cake pans and began baking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci> Bob's Chocolate Banana Birthday Cake included layers of moist banana cake, chocolate ganache filling, sliced fresh bananas, cream cheese frosting and toasted hazelnuts. \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't have much time. We (the birthday cake and I) had to be at the restaurant in two hours, so there was no room for any fussiness. Lots of old tricks helped shaved 5 minutes here, 30 minutes there. The most important were:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- To cream still-frozen butter: Cut the butter in chunks with a sharp knife, add to the mixer and wave a hair-dryer over the butter. Occasionally direct the hot air to the outside of the bowl to warm the butter from beneath. (To free up both hands, wet a towel, wrap it in a circle and nest beneath the bowl; it will sit snugly in place as you stir or blend.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Bake the batter in a large sheet pan rather than regular layer pans. With only 1 inch of batter, the cake bakes in 15 minutes. Cutting it crosswise into three or four strips makes easily stacked, easily frosted layers that form a distinctive rectangular cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Prop the cake in a wide-open window. Ten minutes in SF's cold summer wind was enough to cool the cake completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Cream cheese frosting is simple to make, a breeze to spread and holds up well over a couple of hours or a couple of days. The hair-dryer trick comes in good use here, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Use a soup spoon to make attractive swirls on top of the cake. Pressing finely chopped nuts onto the sides on the cake is an easy way to finish the cake while hiding a fast frosting job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>- Dab a spot of frosting on the platter before placing the first layer down. It will act as \"glue\" to keep the cake from sliding right off the platter and onto the floor of the car.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Place the cake on an upturned bowl or pot to frost the cake. I reinforced the bottom of the cake with a piece of cardboard wrapped in foil. Setting the cake over a tray while coating with a glaze or with nuts allows me to catch and reuse overflow.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although I was a few minutes late, I scored a parking space right in front of the restaurant and arrived before the drink orders were even taken. The folks at Old Krakow were gracious enough to chill the cake for us while we lingered over dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This restaurant is the one reason I make my way out to West Portal. Its quiet dining room is a rarity unto itself, but sitting at a real dining room table, with comfortable chairs and the full complement of inserts, always makes me feel like I'm enjoying a special meal at someone's home. The friendly, unhurried service helps settle me into a leisurely meal. The best thing, of course, is the food itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>Garlic soup: so simple, so satisfying.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I always succumb to an entree -- usually the breaded pork chops -- but I'm pretty sure I could enjoy an entire meal of just soup and my own plate of pierogi. Order the borscht if you must. However, the mushroom soup is paradise in a spoon, while the garlic soup's simplicity hides an incredibly fulfilling, flavorful broth. Pickle soup doesn't appear on the menu, so be sure to ask your server; it's a must try for anyone who likes a hint of tartness with their savory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're with a larger party, you must try the full range of appetizers, from pickled herring and beef tartar to beet salad and marinated mushrooms. Keep in mind that portions are large. There's a \"lighter fare and sides\" section of the menu, but all things being relative, potato dumplings and kielbasa are lumped in there with mushroom crepes and sauteed cabbage. The kitchen is also happy to split entrees. Our favorites for the evening were the stew, the stuffed cabbage, the duck and -- of course -- the breaded pork chops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003cbr>\u003ci>A plate of mushroom-filled pierogi topped with perfectly caramelized onions.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our servers cut and plated the chocolate banana cake tableside for our party. Someone in the kitchen had even piped out \"Happy Birthday!\" on the top in chocolate for the guest of honor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Old Krakow\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>385 West Portal Ave (btwn 14th & 15th)\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 564-4848\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never tried Polish food, this is certainly the place to experience an Old World meal. Old Krakow lends itself well to celebrating special occasions with a comfortable, casual feel. Don't mind their \u003ca href=\"http://dziuggy.com/ok/index.html\">\u003cstrong> totally amateur website\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>; it's proof that you'll get good home-cooking, not slick style.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757568.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757564.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tanya Steel, editor-in-chief of Epicurious.com, and chefs Mark Franz, Jan Birnbaum, and Parke Ulrich invite you to San Francisco's \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.farallonrestaurant.com/\">Farallon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> for a dinner to benefit America's Second Harvest. The evening's special menu will feature dishes personally created by each chef, including diver scallop carpaccio, crispy maple pork belly, and roasted strawberry turnovers. \u003cbr>Click here to \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wolff-smg.com/orders/epicurious/index.php?\">purchase tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Dates for this event in Chicago and New York have already sold out!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I talked to Mark Franz recently about the dinner and what's new:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For those who haven't dined at Farallon before, how would you describe it?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>It's fine dining, sophisticated and elegant. We keep our approach pretty simple in that it's all seasonal, our menu changes weekly and sometimes daily. We give people the whole package--great food and service and almost over the top design, it's whimsical but we take it seriously. It's not a stuffy restaurant people feel at home. Upscale but not pretentious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's your philosophy for putting a dish together?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>This really feels like one of the best times of the year right now--I'm not particularly religious but it seems like God has a plan, anything that's in season works together. Pick what's in season and it will work together that's my philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did you choose what to feature for the Wine. Dine. Donate. menu?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I'm using diver scallops--they are perfect, big and luscious and they aren't dipped, we get them fresh every day so there are no additives no extra water in them, they are extremely fresh and just magnificent. Three quarters of what I find in the supermarket I would send away. I picked something seasonal with fava beans and artichokes to go with the scallop carpaccio. Those two ingredients are a real marriage and I try to turn people on to them. All of that gets served with a gribiche which is an eggy sauce with capers and tarragon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You've been working on the opening of Water Bar on the Embarcadero, what will that be like?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The food will be clean and simple. It will be more provincial in the sense that the food will be grilled, roasted, less rich ingredients. In general, more simple, more straight ahead, everyday meals that are more mediterranean in approach less of the classic French approach you find at Farallon. What I'm doing at Water Bar is what I wanted to do at Farallon, more everyday than special occasion dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Farallon has been around for 10 years, what's new?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The raw bar is new. When you come into the bar there is more excitement because the oysters are in the front not in the kitchen. We sell thousands of oysters but we were never listed as a raw bar so now we moved them into the bar. It's kind of like reinventing yourself but realistically the seafood is the same. If you haven't been in for a while you should check it out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's it like working with Jan Birnbaum at Farallon?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Jan worked here for the last year and a half---we've known each other for 30 years. We both try to utilize what's seasonal and make sense of it. There are no egos involved--Jan's influence shows up in that we do more charcuterie, he's known for braising meats and New Orleans style cooking of course. But we each choose dishes and see what works together. Seafood and pork work especially well together. There isn't a lot of fat on seafood so the pork belly adds a nice velvety layer.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757568.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757564.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tanya Steel, editor-in-chief of Epicurious.com, and chefs Mark Franz, Jan Birnbaum, and Parke Ulrich invite you to San Francisco's \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.farallonrestaurant.com/\">Farallon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> for a dinner to benefit America's Second Harvest. The evening's special menu will feature dishes personally created by each chef, including diver scallop carpaccio, crispy maple pork belly, and roasted strawberry turnovers. \u003cbr>Click here to \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wolff-smg.com/orders/epicurious/index.php?\">purchase tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Dates for this event in Chicago and New York have already sold out!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I talked to Mark Franz recently about the dinner and what's new:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For those who haven't dined at Farallon before, how would you describe it?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>It's fine dining, sophisticated and elegant. We keep our approach pretty simple in that it's all seasonal, our menu changes weekly and sometimes daily. We give people the whole package--great food and service and almost over the top design, it's whimsical but we take it seriously. It's not a stuffy restaurant people feel at home. Upscale but not pretentious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's your philosophy for putting a dish together?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>This really feels like one of the best times of the year right now--I'm not particularly religious but it seems like God has a plan, anything that's in season works together. Pick what's in season and it will work together that's my philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did you choose what to feature for the Wine. Dine. Donate. menu?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I'm using diver scallops--they are perfect, big and luscious and they aren't dipped, we get them fresh every day so there are no additives no extra water in them, they are extremely fresh and just magnificent. Three quarters of what I find in the supermarket I would send away. I picked something seasonal with fava beans and artichokes to go with the scallop carpaccio. Those two ingredients are a real marriage and I try to turn people on to them. All of that gets served with a gribiche which is an eggy sauce with capers and tarragon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You've been working on the opening of Water Bar on the Embarcadero, what will that be like?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The food will be clean and simple. It will be more provincial in the sense that the food will be grilled, roasted, less rich ingredients. In general, more simple, more straight ahead, everyday meals that are more mediterranean in approach less of the classic French approach you find at Farallon. What I'm doing at Water Bar is what I wanted to do at Farallon, more everyday than special occasion dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Farallon has been around for 10 years, what's new?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The raw bar is new. When you come into the bar there is more excitement because the oysters are in the front not in the kitchen. We sell thousands of oysters but we were never listed as a raw bar so now we moved them into the bar. It's kind of like reinventing yourself but realistically the seafood is the same. If you haven't been in for a while you should check it out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's it like working with Jan Birnbaum at Farallon?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Jan worked here for the last year and a half---we've known each other for 30 years. We both try to utilize what's seasonal and make sense of it. There are no egos involved--Jan's influence shows up in that we do more charcuterie, he's known for braising meats and New Orleans style cooking of course. But we each choose dishes and see what works together. Seafood and pork work especially well together. There isn't a lot of fat on seafood so the pork belly adds a nice velvety layer.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0959.JPG\">\u003cbr>I lined up plates in the order they appeared on the menu. This trick helps cooks plate food with speed and efficiency during a busy service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week many of you participated in having a bit of fun with your food. You played \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">The Plated Dessert Menu Game!\u003c/a> Although it began as a lark, I must admit I might make this a regular thing if I get another pastry chef job in a restaurant. Many of you created a menu the likes of which I would not have thought of myself! Thank you! (I hope, of course, that it means you are adventurous eaters as well, supporting dedicated pastry chefs wherever you eat...)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day since \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__2.html\">the dessert tasting\u003c/a>/job interview, my phone voicemail and email inbox has been full of one question, \"So, how did it go?\" But I don't know what to say. They sat, I plated, we ate, we talked, I left. There were 6 of them and one of me. The chef I've been discussing this position with for the last 4 months asked me to speak about what was on the table, another chef asked a lot of questions, a few comments were made and now it's all about the waiting game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0956.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did get to be really nerdy when it came to talking about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/butterscotch_pu.html\">the history of butterscotch\u003c/a>, and why a graham cracker is called that, and why one need \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/rhubarb-verbena-sabayon-pastry-chef.jsp\">understand osmotic reciprocity when attempting to cook rhubarb\u003c/a>. That was extremely fun and satisfying!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0965.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it was amazing to see desserts that had been living in my head, as ideas or a dizzying array of free-floating components, come together on a plate, be set forth in front of humans, and eaten as if they were finished sentences, cohesive concrete visions. Like digital photography, plated dessert making can produce immediate results, an on-the-spot culmination of the conceptual and the actual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course one hopes that one's desserts will also be delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, I give you The Menu presented as my dessert tasting on Monday May 14, 2007, 12 noon, at an undisclosed downtown San Francisco restaurant for the purpose of trying out for a pastry chef job:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butterscotch Pot de creme with Pecan Shortbread\u003cbr>-- Extra component: chantilly.\u003cbr>Cherries & Cream, a Napoleon with Poetic License\u003cbr>-- Double vanilla shortbread, carnaroli rice pudding infused with California Bay Laurel, cherries reduced in cherry vinegar and pitted cherries au natural.\u003cbr>Ricotta Cheesecake with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb\u003cbr>-- Served with rhubarb-rose geranium sauce.\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream\u003cbr>-- El Rey milk chocolate veloute baked atop Devil's Food Cake lifted by cocoa meringue, warmed by hot fudge sauce and garnished with malt ice cream sitting on candied cacao nibs.\u003cbr>Hot Doughnuts with Blushing Sugar and An Egg Cream Chaser\u003cbr>-- \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/doughnuts_donut.html\">Pate a choux doughnuts\u003c/a> rolled in sugar made with mesquite flour, fleur de sel and ground cacao nibs served with vanilla bean egg cream.\u003cbr>Bright Lemon Baked Alaska, Brown Butter and Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers\u003cbr>-- Shuna's famous graham crackers sitting against lemon sherbet and brown butter ice cream hiding under torched Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0963.JPG\">\u003cbr>The cherry Napoleon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0964.JPG\">\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've written about a number of plated dessert tastings I've done in the past few years. Interested in knowing more? \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, all of you, for playing last week's game, reading, imagining, and coming along for the ride!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0959.JPG\">\u003cbr>I lined up plates in the order they appeared on the menu. This trick helps cooks plate food with speed and efficiency during a busy service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week many of you participated in having a bit of fun with your food. You played \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plated-desserts-game.jsp\">The Plated Dessert Menu Game!\u003c/a> Although it began as a lark, I must admit I might make this a regular thing if I get another pastry chef job in a restaurant. Many of you created a menu the likes of which I would not have thought of myself! Thank you! (I hope, of course, that it means you are adventurous eaters as well, supporting dedicated pastry chefs wherever you eat...)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day since \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__2.html\">the dessert tasting\u003c/a>/job interview, my phone voicemail and email inbox has been full of one question, \"So, how did it go?\" But I don't know what to say. They sat, I plated, we ate, we talked, I left. There were 6 of them and one of me. The chef I've been discussing this position with for the last 4 months asked me to speak about what was on the table, another chef asked a lot of questions, a few comments were made and now it's all about the waiting game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0956.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did get to be really nerdy when it came to talking about \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/12/butterscotch_pu.html\">the history of butterscotch\u003c/a>, and why a graham cracker is called that, and why one need \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/rhubarb-verbena-sabayon-pastry-chef.jsp\">understand osmotic reciprocity when attempting to cook rhubarb\u003c/a>. That was extremely fun and satisfying!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0965.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it was amazing to see desserts that had been living in my head, as ideas or a dizzying array of free-floating components, come together on a plate, be set forth in front of humans, and eaten as if they were finished sentences, cohesive concrete visions. Like digital photography, plated dessert making can produce immediate results, an on-the-spot culmination of the conceptual and the actual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course one hopes that one's desserts will also be delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without further ado, I give you The Menu presented as my dessert tasting on Monday May 14, 2007, 12 noon, at an undisclosed downtown San Francisco restaurant for the purpose of trying out for a pastry chef job:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butterscotch Pot de creme with Pecan Shortbread\u003cbr>-- Extra component: chantilly.\u003cbr>Cherries & Cream, a Napoleon with Poetic License\u003cbr>-- Double vanilla shortbread, carnaroli rice pudding infused with California Bay Laurel, cherries reduced in cherry vinegar and pitted cherries au natural.\u003cbr>Ricotta Cheesecake with Crunchy Poached Rhubarb\u003cbr>-- Served with rhubarb-rose geranium sauce.\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream\u003cbr>-- El Rey milk chocolate veloute baked atop Devil's Food Cake lifted by cocoa meringue, warmed by hot fudge sauce and garnished with malt ice cream sitting on candied cacao nibs.\u003cbr>Hot Doughnuts with Blushing Sugar and An Egg Cream Chaser\u003cbr>-- \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/03/doughnuts_donut.html\">Pate a choux doughnuts\u003c/a> rolled in sugar made with mesquite flour, fleur de sel and ground cacao nibs served with vanilla bean egg cream.\u003cbr>Bright Lemon Baked Alaska, Brown Butter and Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers\u003cbr>-- Shuna's famous graham crackers sitting against lemon sherbet and brown butter ice cream hiding under torched Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0963.JPG\">\u003cbr>The cherry Napoleon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0964.JPG\">\u003cbr>Warm Milk Chocolate with Various Chocolate Textures and Malted Ice Cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've written about a number of plated dessert tastings I've done in the past few years. Interested in knowing more? \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/plated_desserts/index.html\">Click here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thank you, all of you, for playing last week's game, reading, imagining, and coming along for the ride!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First Impression: Piqueo's",
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"content": "\u003cp>Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a \"First Impression.\" Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780548.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780544.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is Peruvian the new \"it\" food? Judging by the slew of articles written about it in the last year, the answer is a resounding si. From the New York Times to \u003ca href=\"http://www.aracari.com/aracariperu/cuisine/images/2006_04_28USAToday_Ceviche.jpg\">USA Today\u003c/a>, from Gourmet to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/09/AR2006050900337.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, it's getting a lot of buzz. Nuevo Latino cooking isn't new to San Francisco; we've been enjoying \u003ca href=\"http://www.frescasf.com\">Fresca\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.limon-sf.com\">Limon\u003c/a> for years. Nevertheless, three weeks after \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqueos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a> opened, I found myself winding my way up the pockmarked hills of Bernal Heights to see what the city's newest Peruvian place had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721458.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the swarms of hungry locals are any indication, Piqueo's is already a full-blown success. When my friend and I walked in, it was still light outside and the restaurant was only half-full, but for the better part of dinner, I watched the seemingly never-ending crowd on the sidewalk outside replenish itself every time a lucky group sat down. Undoubtedly, one of the secrets to Piqueo's instantaneous popularity is the mere virtue of its existence: this is a part of town with very few chic restaurants. Chef/owner Carlos Altamirano and his wife Shu (who also own \u003ca href=\"http://www.mochicasf.com\">Mochica\u003c/a>) put a lot of care into making the space sophisticated and inviting. Arched doorways divide the restaurant into three rooms, and the many windows keep it feeling light and airy. Vivid photographs of modern-day Peru hang on brick red walls, and a lemon tree blooms on the granite bar in front of the petite open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798783.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798781.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's bills itself as \"contemporary Peruvian cuisine,\" which seems to mean a mix of California-grown ingredients and items flown in from Altamirano's native Peru -- the giant corn that appears in nearly every dish, for instance -- combined in authentic Peruvian preparations. The menu is divided into piqueos (small plates), ceviches, and entrées. Every meal begins with a small bowl of what they call picadillos, a mixture of fried whole garbanzo beans and dried corn kernels showered with flecks of tomato, red onion, cilantro and queso fresco. It was served with a spoon and nothing else, so we ended up eating it with our fingers. If heroin is anything like these zingy niblets, I can see how you might not notice when Social Services takes your kid. Thank God my friend was dieting -- I got to eat most of the bowl myself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717091.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since ceviche is a signature Peruvian dish, we started with the ceviche mixto ($14). Like nearly everything we ordered, it was dramatically plated. Two mussels on the half-shell and a tangle of raw red onion sheltered chunks of halibut, squid, and prawns. The lime marinade was brash and spicy thanks to aji limo and rocoto, red Peruvian chilies, and we found ourselves wishing for a spoon to better lap it up. The bright coral prawns were the best part of the dish, and if I went again, I'd simply order the ceviche de camarones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741219.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741216.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After one bite, I dismissed the choclo peruano ($9) as too much like the picadillos to be worth ordering separately. But the cold salad of giant Peruvian corn, chunks of queso fresco, tomatoes, red onions, and lemon-oregano dressing eventually won me over. Though its flavors are indeed similar -- it's practically the same dish, except for the fried garbanzos -- it provided a cool and spirited contrast to the warm dishes we ordered. Word to the wise: it's hard to avoid palate fatigue when so many dishes are seasoned with the same spices and flavors, so order carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757201.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757199.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress raved about the anticuchon ($10), skewered sirloin brochettes drizzled with sweet and spicy BBQ-style panca sauce, but we found the meat overcooked and the sauce salty beyond reason. I simply couldn't finish what I put on my plate. It was also one-dimensional, save for the delectable puddle of avocado crema, which might have rescued a properly seasoned rendition from monotony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779067.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779063.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than the picadillos, our favorite dish of the night was a plate of fried plantains in an orange-cinnamon glaze ($7). I'm not much for bananas, but I have adored plantains since I first tried them in an El Salvadoran restaurant with a heap of black beans and tangy sour cream on the side. As our waitress warned us, these are sweet enough to be dessert, so we decided to eat them last. From the caramelized sugars in the sauce to the slightly sour, creamy mash of the platanitos, every bite was bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700562.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700560.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we'd forgotten about the garlic shrimp ($10) still coming our way. After dessert, it was hard to go back, and when I woke up with vampire-slaying breath the next morning, I sort of wished I hadn't. Still, the shrimp were nicely cooked and the griddled bread was the perfect sponge for all that garlicky sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress was knowledgeable and friendly, and any small flubs in service -- the lack of changed plates between courses, the traffic jam of dishes sent out too quickly by the kitchen -- should work themselves out as Piqueo's gets through opening month madness. Even if they don't, I'm already craving those picadillos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's\u003cbr>830 Cortland Avenue\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 282-8812\u003cbr>Open for dinner 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Note: A write-up of any restaurant that has been open less than a month is considered a \"First Impression.\" Meaning, we want to bring you the latest and greatest from around SF but acknowledge that new spots may have some kinks to work out. We keep that in mind, and you should, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780548.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-exterior-780544.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is Peruvian the new \"it\" food? Judging by the slew of articles written about it in the last year, the answer is a resounding si. From the New York Times to \u003ca href=\"http://www.aracari.com/aracariperu/cuisine/images/2006_04_28USAToday_Ceviche.jpg\">USA Today\u003c/a>, from Gourmet to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/05/09/AR2006050900337.html\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, it's getting a lot of buzz. Nuevo Latino cooking isn't new to San Francisco; we've been enjoying \u003ca href=\"http://www.frescasf.com\">Fresca\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.limon-sf.com\">Limon\u003c/a> for years. Nevertheless, three weeks after \u003ca href=\"http://www.piqueos.com\">Piqueo's\u003c/a> opened, I found myself winding my way up the pockmarked hills of Bernal Heights to see what the city's newest Peruvian place had to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721462.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/piqueos-interior-721458.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the swarms of hungry locals are any indication, Piqueo's is already a full-blown success. When my friend and I walked in, it was still light outside and the restaurant was only half-full, but for the better part of dinner, I watched the seemingly never-ending crowd on the sidewalk outside replenish itself every time a lucky group sat down. Undoubtedly, one of the secrets to Piqueo's instantaneous popularity is the mere virtue of its existence: this is a part of town with very few chic restaurants. Chef/owner Carlos Altamirano and his wife Shu (who also own \u003ca href=\"http://www.mochicasf.com\">Mochica\u003c/a>) put a lot of care into making the space sophisticated and inviting. Arched doorways divide the restaurant into three rooms, and the many windows keep it feeling light and airy. Vivid photographs of modern-day Peru hang on brick red walls, and a lemon tree blooms on the granite bar in front of the petite open kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798783.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/picadillos-798781.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's bills itself as \"contemporary Peruvian cuisine,\" which seems to mean a mix of California-grown ingredients and items flown in from Altamirano's native Peru -- the giant corn that appears in nearly every dish, for instance -- combined in authentic Peruvian preparations. The menu is divided into piqueos (small plates), ceviches, and entrées. Every meal begins with a small bowl of what they call picadillos, a mixture of fried whole garbanzo beans and dried corn kernels showered with flecks of tomato, red onion, cilantro and queso fresco. It was served with a spoon and nothing else, so we ended up eating it with our fingers. If heroin is anything like these zingy niblets, I can see how you might not notice when Social Services takes your kid. Thank God my friend was dieting -- I got to eat most of the bowl myself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/ceviche-717091.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since ceviche is a signature Peruvian dish, we started with the ceviche mixto ($14). Like nearly everything we ordered, it was dramatically plated. Two mussels on the half-shell and a tangle of raw red onion sheltered chunks of halibut, squid, and prawns. The lime marinade was brash and spicy thanks to aji limo and rocoto, red Peruvian chilies, and we found ourselves wishing for a spoon to better lap it up. The bright coral prawns were the best part of the dish, and if I went again, I'd simply order the ceviche de camarones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741219.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/potato-salad-741216.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After one bite, I dismissed the choclo peruano ($9) as too much like the picadillos to be worth ordering separately. But the cold salad of giant Peruvian corn, chunks of queso fresco, tomatoes, red onions, and lemon-oregano dressing eventually won me over. Though its flavors are indeed similar -- it's practically the same dish, except for the fried garbanzos -- it provided a cool and spirited contrast to the warm dishes we ordered. Word to the wise: it's hard to avoid palate fatigue when so many dishes are seasoned with the same spices and flavors, so order carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757201.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/brochetts-757199.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress raved about the anticuchon ($10), skewered sirloin brochettes drizzled with sweet and spicy BBQ-style panca sauce, but we found the meat overcooked and the sauce salty beyond reason. I simply couldn't finish what I put on my plate. It was also one-dimensional, save for the delectable puddle of avocado crema, which might have rescued a properly seasoned rendition from monotony. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779067.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/plantains-779063.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other than the picadillos, our favorite dish of the night was a plate of fried plantains in an orange-cinnamon glaze ($7). I'm not much for bananas, but I have adored plantains since I first tried them in an El Salvadoran restaurant with a heap of black beans and tangy sour cream on the side. As our waitress warned us, these are sweet enough to be dessert, so we decided to eat them last. From the caramelized sugars in the sauce to the slightly sour, creamy mash of the platanitos, every bite was bliss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700562.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/garlic-shrimp-700560.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, we'd forgotten about the garlic shrimp ($10) still coming our way. After dessert, it was hard to go back, and when I woke up with vampire-slaying breath the next morning, I sort of wished I hadn't. Still, the shrimp were nicely cooked and the griddled bread was the perfect sponge for all that garlicky sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our waitress was knowledgeable and friendly, and any small flubs in service -- the lack of changed plates between courses, the traffic jam of dishes sent out too quickly by the kitchen -- should work themselves out as Piqueo's gets through opening month madness. Even if they don't, I'm already craving those picadillos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Piqueo's\u003cbr>830 Cortland Avenue\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 282-8812\u003cbr>Open for dinner 7 nights a week\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cafe Majestic Lives up to its Name",
"title": "Cafe Majestic Lives up to its Name",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788477.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788471.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/\">Perez Hilton\u003c/a> to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then I said yes anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After having eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/restaurant.html\">Café Majestic\u003c/a>, all I can say is yum, yum, yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full disclosure: my meal was comped. These days, there's a lot of debate in (\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/25/MNGV9ORDSH1.DTL\">and out of\u003c/a>) the blogosphere about the ethics of reviewing restaurants. Big publications can afford for their critics to eat out anonymously multiple times. Small publications can't, and when I go to dinner, even if it's for work, I usually pay my own way. When a new restaurant opens, they often invite media guests to enjoy dinner on them. There is no obligation to write a single word about their restaurant, and I often don't, nor do I sugarcoat my opinions. Two rules of the road when I write about a media dinner: I will always tell you it was free, and I will never comment on the service. It's impossible to judge if my treatment will be a fair representation of the average. Now let's continue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic resides in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/\">Hotel Majestic\u003c/a>, a century-old building in Pac Heights with furnishings that evoke a bygone era and a cozy bar downstairs that boasts a collection of rare butterflies (pinned to boards, not fluttering around). The restaurant was closed for four years, and after a million dollar renovation, the new owners reopened it six months ago, and brought on chef Ian Begg in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I entered the dining room, I was happy. Am I the only one who's sick of exposed red brick walls, communal tables, and concrete floors? Café Majestic is elegant but not fussy. Cream walls are hung with pen and ink sketches and subtle gold accents trace the fabric of plush banquettes. Look closely and you'll notice white porcelain dogs everywhere -- flanking the left side of the restaurant or on a decorative table -- and it becomes clear the owners are the kind of people who would tongue kiss their prized Corgis. Dressy attire is appropriate here, and again I say hallelujah! There are only so many more times I can force on my thong-baring, ankle-hugging jeans before I snap and cut them to shreds with nail scissors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a Brobdingnagian amuse bouche: asparagus gazpacho with a \"caviar\" of day boat scallops, cucumbers, Meyer lemon and Fresno chili. It was too lemony, and I didn't really want to finish it, which led to a debate with my boyfriend about size. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says: bigger is better.\u003cbr>She says: good things come in small packages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our first course was a dozen Marin Miyagis ($36) with lime mignonette. The substitution of lime for the classic champagne or white wine vinegar was magical and refreshing, and it brightened up the sauce without overpowering the oysters' delicate, briny flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arugula, Fuji apples, blue cheese, and a walnut vinaigrette ($9) sounds dull, I know; after all, you can find some version of this fruit/cheese/nut salad almost \u003ca href=\"http://www.wendys.com/food/Family.jsp?family=3\">anywhere\u003c/a>. But I was in the mood for a light start to the evening, and the salad was beautifully balanced and dressed with restraint. The Fuji slivers were so thin, they were translucent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so tempted by the sautéed potato gnocchi, cipollini onions, white truffle oil, roasted garlic cream, asparagus ($17) that we begged for a half-portion just to taste. What might have been a gut-busting dairy bomb in less skilled hands was light as a feather. (Maybe two feathers.) The gnocchi were fluffy and the delicate cream sauce was infused with deep, sweet notes of roasted garlic and onion. Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com\">one food writer\u003c/a> I know calls truffle oil \"cheap thrills,\" this dish proves there is a time and a place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also illustrates both the flairs and the flaws of the Café Majestic kitchen: Begg is a young and talented chef, but he plays it safe too often. Dishes like grilled Hawaiian ono, pea shoots, green garlic, sea urchin cream, chili oil ($28) prove that he doesn't have to. I loved the uni's subtle sea-kissed sweetness, and there was just enough chili oil to keep the lusciousness in check. Pea shoots, a food I generally avoid, added just the right crunch and bitterness, and I gobbled every last one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grilled \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainrivervenison.co.nz/page.php?page_id=story\">Mountain River Farms\u003c/a> venison loin ($28) is decidedly un-local -- it comes from New Zealand -- but my boyfriend declared it the best he's ever eaten. Its raspberry-pink flesh was tender and free of the gaminess venison is often cursed with. Bitter endive and blood orange marmalade gave a one-two punch, and a snowfall of pine nuts added creaminess. The fiddlehead ferns coiled on top were a welcome reminder of spring in an otherwise wintry dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was disappointed with dessert. The Medjool date tarte ($8) was simply too sweet. A flat pastry disc was topped with a thick layer of pureed dates and star anise ice cream, then drizzled with Marshall Farms honey. I loved the Middle Eastern nod, but the dish needed something tangy to save it from itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General manager and wine director Ryan Maxey chose flattering wine matches for the food -- a 2006 Condes de Albarei Albarino Rias Baixas for the ono, a 2004 Santa Barbara Vineyards Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley for the venison. More than his wine pairings, though, we loved his enthusiasm and southern hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a grown-up ambiance and captivating cooking, Café Majestic has a lot to offer. If chef Begg would give freer reign to his more inspired touches, it could just become one of San Francisco's most exciting new restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic\u003cbr>1500 Sutter Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 441-1280\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"description": "When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to Perez Hilton to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788477.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/CM-exterior-788471.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I received an email inviting me to a new restaurant with an unknown chef serving local, seasonal Cal-French cuisine, what did I do? I yawned. Shuffled a few papers. Clicked over to \u003ca href=\"http://perezhilton.com/\">Perez Hilton\u003c/a> to read about Britney's rumored lipo. That kind of menu is a dime a dozen in this town. But then I said yes anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After having eaten at \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/restaurant.html\">Café Majestic\u003c/a>, all I can say is yum, yum, yum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Full disclosure: my meal was comped. These days, there's a lot of debate in (\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/25/MNGV9ORDSH1.DTL\">and out of\u003c/a>) the blogosphere about the ethics of reviewing restaurants. Big publications can afford for their critics to eat out anonymously multiple times. Small publications can't, and when I go to dinner, even if it's for work, I usually pay my own way. When a new restaurant opens, they often invite media guests to enjoy dinner on them. There is no obligation to write a single word about their restaurant, and I often don't, nor do I sugarcoat my opinions. Two rules of the road when I write about a media dinner: I will always tell you it was free, and I will never comment on the service. It's impossible to judge if my treatment will be a fair representation of the average. Now let's continue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic resides in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelmajestic.com/\">Hotel Majestic\u003c/a>, a century-old building in Pac Heights with furnishings that evoke a bygone era and a cozy bar downstairs that boasts a collection of rare butterflies (pinned to boards, not fluttering around). The restaurant was closed for four years, and after a million dollar renovation, the new owners reopened it six months ago, and brought on chef Ian Begg in January.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as I entered the dining room, I was happy. Am I the only one who's sick of exposed red brick walls, communal tables, and concrete floors? Café Majestic is elegant but not fussy. Cream walls are hung with pen and ink sketches and subtle gold accents trace the fabric of plush banquettes. Look closely and you'll notice white porcelain dogs everywhere -- flanking the left side of the restaurant or on a decorative table -- and it becomes clear the owners are the kind of people who would tongue kiss their prized Corgis. Dressy attire is appropriate here, and again I say hallelujah! There are only so many more times I can force on my thong-baring, ankle-hugging jeans before I snap and cut them to shreds with nail scissors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a Brobdingnagian amuse bouche: asparagus gazpacho with a \"caviar\" of day boat scallops, cucumbers, Meyer lemon and Fresno chili. It was too lemony, and I didn't really want to finish it, which led to a debate with my boyfriend about size. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says: bigger is better.\u003cbr>She says: good things come in small packages. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our first course was a dozen Marin Miyagis ($36) with lime mignonette. The substitution of lime for the classic champagne or white wine vinegar was magical and refreshing, and it brightened up the sauce without overpowering the oysters' delicate, briny flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arugula, Fuji apples, blue cheese, and a walnut vinaigrette ($9) sounds dull, I know; after all, you can find some version of this fruit/cheese/nut salad almost \u003ca href=\"http://www.wendys.com/food/Family.jsp?family=3\">anywhere\u003c/a>. But I was in the mood for a light start to the evening, and the salad was beautifully balanced and dressed with restraint. The Fuji slivers were so thin, they were translucent. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We were so tempted by the sautéed potato gnocchi, cipollini onions, white truffle oil, roasted garlic cream, asparagus ($17) that we begged for a half-portion just to taste. What might have been a gut-busting dairy bomb in less skilled hands was light as a feather. (Maybe two feathers.) The gnocchi were fluffy and the delicate cream sauce was infused with deep, sweet notes of roasted garlic and onion. Though \u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com\">one food writer\u003c/a> I know calls truffle oil \"cheap thrills,\" this dish proves there is a time and a place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also illustrates both the flairs and the flaws of the Café Majestic kitchen: Begg is a young and talented chef, but he plays it safe too often. Dishes like grilled Hawaiian ono, pea shoots, green garlic, sea urchin cream, chili oil ($28) prove that he doesn't have to. I loved the uni's subtle sea-kissed sweetness, and there was just enough chili oil to keep the lusciousness in check. Pea shoots, a food I generally avoid, added just the right crunch and bitterness, and I gobbled every last one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grilled \u003ca href=\"http://www.mountainrivervenison.co.nz/page.php?page_id=story\">Mountain River Farms\u003c/a> venison loin ($28) is decidedly un-local -- it comes from New Zealand -- but my boyfriend declared it the best he's ever eaten. Its raspberry-pink flesh was tender and free of the gaminess venison is often cursed with. Bitter endive and blood orange marmalade gave a one-two punch, and a snowfall of pine nuts added creaminess. The fiddlehead ferns coiled on top were a welcome reminder of spring in an otherwise wintry dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was disappointed with dessert. The Medjool date tarte ($8) was simply too sweet. A flat pastry disc was topped with a thick layer of pureed dates and star anise ice cream, then drizzled with Marshall Farms honey. I loved the Middle Eastern nod, but the dish needed something tangy to save it from itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General manager and wine director Ryan Maxey chose flattering wine matches for the food -- a 2006 Condes de Albarei Albarino Rias Baixas for the ono, a 2004 Santa Barbara Vineyards Syrah from Santa Ynez Valley for the venison. More than his wine pairings, though, we loved his enthusiasm and southern hospitality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a grown-up ambiance and captivating cooking, Café Majestic has a lot to offer. If chef Begg would give freer reign to his more inspired touches, it could just become one of San Francisco's most exciting new restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Café Majestic\u003cbr>1500 Sutter Street\u003cbr>San Francisco\u003cbr>(415) 441-1280\u003cbr>Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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