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"disqusTitle": "Table Talk: September Is Full of Great Food Events…and Tequila!",
"title": "Table Talk: September Is Full of Great Food Events…and Tequila!",
"headTitle": "KQED’s Table Talk | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Your September calendar is going to fill up with some fab food events, including the SF Cheese Fest, Eat Real Festival in Oakland, a special INFORUM talk with chef José Andrés, an Agave Girls night of tequila with Joanne Weir at Copita, and you can recover from all the over-indulging with some khao mun gai (chicken fat rice).\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland’s Eat Real Festival Returns September 14–16\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/\">Eat Real Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/SycFV54M9tz\">Jack London Square\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBroadway and Embarcadero, Oakland\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday September 14, 3pm to 10pm\u003cbr>\nSaturday September 15, 11am to 10pm\u003cbr>\nSunday September 16, 11am to 6pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General Admission (Free)\u003cbr>\nTicketed Events ($5-$35), purchase on Eventbrite\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130161\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/ERF_2017_Lincoln-Chu_5765-e1535152097984.jpg\" alt=\"The Eat Real Festival knows how to feed a crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130161\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Eat Real Festival knows how to feed a crowd. \u003ccite>(Lincoln Chu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>September is close, which means it’s time for the return of the \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/\">\u003cb>Eat Real Festival\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, now in its tenth year! This street food festival and block party will host more than 50 Bay Area food vendors, all serving sustainably sourced food, in addition to over 40 craft beers, wines, and cocktails. Some confirmed vendors include Gerard’s Paella, Southern Comfort Kitchen, Frozen Kuhsterd, Clove & Hoof, and Aburaya, plus vegan offerings from VegeNation, Core Kitchen, and No Worries. Eat Real’s mission is to help revitalize regional food systems, build public awareness and respect for the craft of making good food, and encourage the growth of American food entrepreneurs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The festival is free, but there are a handful of \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/o/eat-real-festival-17704849439\">ticketed food experiences\u003c/a> ($5–$35) including a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/brews-bites-2018-tickets-49200688584\">Brews + Bites\u003c/a> pairing class, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fermenting-rainbows-tickets-49245550768\">Fermenting Rainbows\u003c/a> class on fermenting vegetables kids will love, a cheesemaking class on how to make \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/two-cheeses-in-under-10-minutes-making-ricotta-and-chevre-at-home-tickets-49245720275\">Two Cheeses in Under 10 Minutes\u003c/a> at home, and a culinary class on \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tea-leaf-salad-with-grocery-cafe-tickets-49245998106\">Tea Leaf Salad with Grocery Cafe\u003c/a>. A portion of event proceeds benefit the \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/\">Food Craft Institute\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There will also be DJs playing Sat–Sun, live mural painting, and a Family Zone at Harrison Street with face painting and a circus workshop for kids of all ages. The entertainment schedule can be found \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/about/entertainment-2/\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Release the Cheese! Don’t Miss the SF Cheese Fest September 15–16\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfcheesefest.com/\">SF Cheese Fest\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/sf-cheese-fest-cheesemaker-celebration-tickets-48018962008\">Cheesemaker Celebration\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/1phUntKdxMu\">Social Hall\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1270 Sutter St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSeptember 15\u003cbr>\n6pm–9pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday Seminars\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/EW8toS9EaCD2\">The Cheese School of San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n900 North Point St. k201, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSeptember 16\u003cbr>\n11am–9pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130162\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Fat-Bottomed-Girl-e1535152198416.jpg\" alt=\"The array of cheeses at the SF Cheese Fest are lovely to admire, but even better to taste.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130162\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The array of cheeses at the SF Cheese Fest are lovely to admire, but even better to taste. \u003ccite>(Ellen Cronin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fourth annual SF Cheese Fest returns, bringing over 20 artisan cheesemakers from across the state for a special walk-around tasting. On Saturday, September 15, you’ll taste beauties from Cowgirl Creamery, Cypress Grove Cheese, Di Stefano Cheese, Point Reyes Farmstead, along with some of California's newest producers, like Folly Cheese Co., Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers, and Moonside Creamery. You’ll also enjoy bites, plus samples of cured meats, pickles, jams, and chocolate from local makers, courtesy of The Cheese School of San Francisco, GreenLeaf, Mission Cheese, and Canyon Market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll refresh your palate with beers, wines, and ciders from Bay Area makers (they know exactly what you need after eating goat cheese), while enjoying live music by SF-based gypsy jazz band Gaucho. One more bonus: all attendees will receive a free one-year subscription to \u003ci>Culture Magazine\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New this year are the educational \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfcheesefest.com/sunday-seminars-1/\">\u003cb>Sunday Seminars\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, in collaboration with The Cheese School of San Francisco, on Sunday, September 16. Ticket proceeds benefit the California Artisan Cheese Guild, a statewide nonprofit dedicated to the education and support of artisan cheese making. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Comfort Food at Its Finest: Khao Mun Gai (and a New Place to Find It)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Rooster and Rice\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco: multiple locations\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What the Cluck\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/JjnLeSfdZWR2\">1782 Haight St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOpen daily 11am–8pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you need to take a break from the cheese, the pizza, the cacio e pepe, the burgers, the tacos, the spice, the sandwiches, and get down to basics. You just need some simple gingery chicken deliciousness, especially when you’re sick. In Asia, there’s a famous chicken and rice dish known as Hainan/Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore (it’s considered its national dish) and Malaysia, also known as khao mun gai in Thailand (you’ll find it in Vietnam and Cambodia as well). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its origins are from the Hainan province in southern China, and the dish basically consists of poached chicken served over chicken fat rice with a side serving of broth, but depending on where you have it, there will be additions to how the chicken and rice are prepared, plus different garnishes, to a gingery side sauce or a spicier one. It’s a casual dish, an affordable one that is meant to sustain you but brings some comfort too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While poached chicken is not the most photogenic item (some people have a hard time with the poached skin, but really, give it a chance), some of the most delicious foods far surpass their homely appearance. A San Francisco favorite for khao mun gai is \u003ca href=\"http://www.roosterandrice.com/\">\u003cb>Rooster and Rice\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, with three fast-casual locations around the city. I love the way they prepare their chicken and rice (seasoned with the perfect amount of chicken fat), the mix of juicy dark and white organic chicken meat, and their bright side sauce of fresh chile, ginger, garlic, and soybean is tops. The deeply flavorful broth is also like an elixir. Their basic KMG is $11.95. If you can’t make it to their three locations, they also deliver on Caviar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/whatthecluck-KMG-e1535152503280.jpg\" alt=\"The latest place serving khao mun gai in San Francisco is What the Cluck.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130165\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The latest place serving khao mun gai in San Francisco is What the Cluck. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There’s a new khao mun gai outpost in the Upper Haight called \u003ca href=\"http://www.whattheclucksf.com/\">\u003cb>What the Cluck\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, from Bangkok native Koonz Vannasetta. Here you also get organic breast and thigh (it’s tender and juicy) for $10.95, and another option is to order your KMG with riceberry (a jasmine and black rice hybrid). For your first time, I’d recommend you stick with the traditional jasmine rice (which gets zhooshed with chicken fat), and skip the brown rice option (the side I ordered was mushy). If you want to go all out, there’s “The Ultimate” ($15.95), with poached egg, chicken liver, and extra sauce (their sauce is on the milder side, with fermented soybean, garlic, and ginger). There’s also a version with tofu for vegetarians. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130166\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/whatthecluck-soup-e1535152570560.jpg\" alt=\"You can also opt for the restorative chicken soup at What the Cluck.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130166\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You can also opt for the restorative chicken soup at What the Cluck. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll additionally find a restorative chicken and rice soup with spinach leaves ($10.95), which I doctored up with some extra ginger at home to help keep a cold at bay (and boost up the flavor a bit). It hit the spot and the mushy brown rice was perfect in the soup. The food travels extremely well with delivery (there are a few tables and a counter but the place is pretty bare bones), and do note they close a little early. You can order for delivery on \u003ca href=\"http://fbuy.me/j32wv\">Grubhub\u003c/a> (and new customers, take $10 off your first order with that link).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find KMG at nicer sit-down restaurants \u003ca href=\"https://www.hawkerfare.com/\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://kinkhao.com/\">Kin Khao\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Don’t Miss This Moving INFORUM: Feeding Puerto Rico with Chef José Andrés\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Marines’ Memorial Theatre\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/6tiNas9XuuR2\">609 Sutter St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMonday September 17\u003cbr>\n5:30pm check-in, 6:30pm program\u003cbr>\nTickets: Members $25, Non-Members $40\u003cbr>\nPremium (includes a book and seating in the first few rows): Members $50, Non-Members $65; Students $10 (with valid I.D.)\u003cbr>\nKQED readers get 10% off with \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/feeding-puerto-rico-with-chef-jose-andres-tickets-48337838777?discount=KQED\">this link\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130164\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/JoseI%CC%80_-AndreI%CC%80_s_credit-Ryan-Forbes1-e1535152439863.jpg\" alt=\"Listen to chef José Andrés at this special INFORUM.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2793\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130164\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Listen to chef José Andrés at this special INFORUM. \u003ccite>(Ryan Forbes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In September 2017, many of us were in awe of chef José Andrés as he sprung into action to help the people of Puerto Rico when they were in dire need of assistance after Hurricane Maria wreaked havoc on the Caribbean. This was mere weeks after Hurricane Irma had swept through the islands, leaving millions without food or water and the largest power outage in American history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, September 17, it’s your chance to hear from the man himself at a special INFORUM at the Commonwealth Club: \u003ca href=\"http://inforumsf.org/upcoming-events/2018/8/1/feeding-puerto-rico-with-chef-jos-andrs\">Feeding Puerto Rico with Chef José Andrés\u003c/a>. Joining him is Tom Philpott, Food and Agriculture Correspondent, \u003ci>Mother Jones\u003c/i>. You will hear how Andrés managed to serve 3 million hot meals during his time in the country with #ChefsForPuertoRico and passionately rallied for disaster relief, helping to provide a framework for what humanitarian relief should look like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He founded his nonprofit, World Central Kitchen, after the devastating 2010 earthquake in Haiti with the belief that food can be an agent of change. The organization has expanded globally and developed into a group of chefs creating solutions to hunger and poverty, from providing food and aid during disasters like the Northern California wildfires to distributing meals and gas masks in evacuated areas on Hawaii’s Big Island after the Kilauea volcano erupted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130163\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2160px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC.png\" alt=\"José Andrés has a new book: We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time.\" width=\"2160\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130163\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC.png 2160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-160x80.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-800x400.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-768x384.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-1020x510.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-1200x600.png 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-1180x590.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-960x480.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-240x120.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-375x188.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-520x260.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2160px) 100vw, 2160px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">José Andrés has a new book: We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time. \u003ccite>(HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He will also be discussing his book, \u003ci>We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time\u003c/i>. As a special offer to KQED readers, enjoy 10% off tickets with the link above.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Calling All Tequila Lovin’ Ladies (or Those Who Want to Learn More)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Agave Girls Dinner\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nCopita Tequileria y Comida\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/FPEDPaoHFC62\">739 Bridgeway, Sausalito\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTuesday September 18\u003cbr>\n6:30pm–9pm\u003cbr>\n$80 per guest (plus $11.61 fee and tax), tickets available on \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/agave-girls-at-copita-tickets-47749961420?mc_cid=a2c05bc916&mc_eid=%5bUNIQID%5d\">Eventbrite\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/copita-Margarita2-e1535152026912.jpg\" alt=\"The tequila will be flowing at the upcoming Agave Girls night with Joanne Weir.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2891\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130160\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The tequila will be flowing at the upcoming Agave Girls night with Joanne Weir. \u003ccite>(Copita Tequileria y Comida)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>PBS chef and author (\u003ci>Kitchen Gypsy\u003c/i> and \u003ci>Tequila\u003c/i>) Joanne Weir is hosting an upcoming Agave Girls event on Tuesday, September 18 at her restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita Tequileria y Comida\u003c/a> in Sausalito (which she opened with Larry Mindel). 25 guests will enjoy passed appetizers and a tequila tasting flight from the evening’s sponsor, Dulce Vida, followed by a three-course dinner paired with tequila cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Weir first debuted the Agave Girls series in 2006, offering women a celebratory environment to enjoy and appreciate the flavor and history of tequila. It’s assuredly going to be a fun and enlightening evening. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Your September calendar is going to fill up with some fab food events, including the SF Cheese Fest, Eat Real Festival in Oakland, a special INFORUM talk with chef José Andrés, an Agave Girls night of tequila with Joanne Weir at Copita, and you can recover from all the over-indulging with some khao mun gai (chicken fat rice).\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland’s Eat Real Festival Returns September 14–16\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/\">Eat Real Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/SycFV54M9tz\">Jack London Square\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBroadway and Embarcadero, Oakland\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday September 14, 3pm to 10pm\u003cbr>\nSaturday September 15, 11am to 10pm\u003cbr>\nSunday September 16, 11am to 6pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>General Admission (Free)\u003cbr>\nTicketed Events ($5-$35), purchase on Eventbrite\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130161\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/ERF_2017_Lincoln-Chu_5765-e1535152097984.jpg\" alt=\"The Eat Real Festival knows how to feed a crowd.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130161\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Eat Real Festival knows how to feed a crowd. \u003ccite>(Lincoln Chu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>September is close, which means it’s time for the return of the \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/\">\u003cb>Eat Real Festival\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, now in its tenth year! This street food festival and block party will host more than 50 Bay Area food vendors, all serving sustainably sourced food, in addition to over 40 craft beers, wines, and cocktails. Some confirmed vendors include Gerard’s Paella, Southern Comfort Kitchen, Frozen Kuhsterd, Clove & Hoof, and Aburaya, plus vegan offerings from VegeNation, Core Kitchen, and No Worries. Eat Real’s mission is to help revitalize regional food systems, build public awareness and respect for the craft of making good food, and encourage the growth of American food entrepreneurs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The festival is free, but there are a handful of \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/o/eat-real-festival-17704849439\">ticketed food experiences\u003c/a> ($5–$35) including a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/brews-bites-2018-tickets-49200688584\">Brews + Bites\u003c/a> pairing class, a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fermenting-rainbows-tickets-49245550768\">Fermenting Rainbows\u003c/a> class on fermenting vegetables kids will love, a cheesemaking class on how to make \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/two-cheeses-in-under-10-minutes-making-ricotta-and-chevre-at-home-tickets-49245720275\">Two Cheeses in Under 10 Minutes\u003c/a> at home, and a culinary class on \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tea-leaf-salad-with-grocery-cafe-tickets-49245998106\">Tea Leaf Salad with Grocery Cafe\u003c/a>. A portion of event proceeds benefit the \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/\">Food Craft Institute\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There will also be DJs playing Sat–Sun, live mural painting, and a Family Zone at Harrison Street with face painting and a circus workshop for kids of all ages. The entertainment schedule can be found \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/about/entertainment-2/\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Release the Cheese! Don’t Miss the SF Cheese Fest September 15–16\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfcheesefest.com/\">SF Cheese Fest\u003c/a>\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/sf-cheese-fest-cheesemaker-celebration-tickets-48018962008\">Cheesemaker Celebration\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/1phUntKdxMu\">Social Hall\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1270 Sutter St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSeptember 15\u003cbr>\n6pm–9pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sunday Seminars\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/EW8toS9EaCD2\">The Cheese School of San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n900 North Point St. k201, San Francisco\u003cbr>\nSeptember 16\u003cbr>\n11am–9pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130162\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Fat-Bottomed-Girl-e1535152198416.jpg\" alt=\"The array of cheeses at the SF Cheese Fest are lovely to admire, but even better to taste.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130162\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The array of cheeses at the SF Cheese Fest are lovely to admire, but even better to taste. \u003ccite>(Ellen Cronin)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fourth annual SF Cheese Fest returns, bringing over 20 artisan cheesemakers from across the state for a special walk-around tasting. On Saturday, September 15, you’ll taste beauties from Cowgirl Creamery, Cypress Grove Cheese, Di Stefano Cheese, Point Reyes Farmstead, along with some of California's newest producers, like Folly Cheese Co., Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers, and Moonside Creamery. You’ll also enjoy bites, plus samples of cured meats, pickles, jams, and chocolate from local makers, courtesy of The Cheese School of San Francisco, GreenLeaf, Mission Cheese, and Canyon Market. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll refresh your palate with beers, wines, and ciders from Bay Area makers (they know exactly what you need after eating goat cheese), while enjoying live music by SF-based gypsy jazz band Gaucho. One more bonus: all attendees will receive a free one-year subscription to \u003ci>Culture Magazine\u003c/i>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>New this year are the educational \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfcheesefest.com/sunday-seminars-1/\">\u003cb>Sunday Seminars\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, in collaboration with The Cheese School of San Francisco, on Sunday, September 16. Ticket proceeds benefit the California Artisan Cheese Guild, a statewide nonprofit dedicated to the education and support of artisan cheese making. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Comfort Food at Its Finest: Khao Mun Gai (and a New Place to Find It)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Rooster and Rice\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco: multiple locations\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What the Cluck\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/JjnLeSfdZWR2\">1782 Haight St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOpen daily 11am–8pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you need to take a break from the cheese, the pizza, the cacio e pepe, the burgers, the tacos, the spice, the sandwiches, and get down to basics. You just need some simple gingery chicken deliciousness, especially when you’re sick. In Asia, there’s a famous chicken and rice dish known as Hainan/Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore (it’s considered its national dish) and Malaysia, also known as khao mun gai in Thailand (you’ll find it in Vietnam and Cambodia as well). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Its origins are from the Hainan province in southern China, and the dish basically consists of poached chicken served over chicken fat rice with a side serving of broth, but depending on where you have it, there will be additions to how the chicken and rice are prepared, plus different garnishes, to a gingery side sauce or a spicier one. It’s a casual dish, an affordable one that is meant to sustain you but brings some comfort too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While poached chicken is not the most photogenic item (some people have a hard time with the poached skin, but really, give it a chance), some of the most delicious foods far surpass their homely appearance. A San Francisco favorite for khao mun gai is \u003ca href=\"http://www.roosterandrice.com/\">\u003cb>Rooster and Rice\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, with three fast-casual locations around the city. I love the way they prepare their chicken and rice (seasoned with the perfect amount of chicken fat), the mix of juicy dark and white organic chicken meat, and their bright side sauce of fresh chile, ginger, garlic, and soybean is tops. The deeply flavorful broth is also like an elixir. Their basic KMG is $11.95. If you can’t make it to their three locations, they also deliver on Caviar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/whatthecluck-KMG-e1535152503280.jpg\" alt=\"The latest place serving khao mun gai in San Francisco is What the Cluck.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130165\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The latest place serving khao mun gai in San Francisco is What the Cluck. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There’s a new khao mun gai outpost in the Upper Haight called \u003ca href=\"http://www.whattheclucksf.com/\">\u003cb>What the Cluck\u003c/b>\u003c/a>, from Bangkok native Koonz Vannasetta. Here you also get organic breast and thigh (it’s tender and juicy) for $10.95, and another option is to order your KMG with riceberry (a jasmine and black rice hybrid). For your first time, I’d recommend you stick with the traditional jasmine rice (which gets zhooshed with chicken fat), and skip the brown rice option (the side I ordered was mushy). If you want to go all out, there’s “The Ultimate” ($15.95), with poached egg, chicken liver, and extra sauce (their sauce is on the milder side, with fermented soybean, garlic, and ginger). There’s also a version with tofu for vegetarians. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130166\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/whatthecluck-soup-e1535152570560.jpg\" alt=\"You can also opt for the restorative chicken soup at What the Cluck.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2883\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130166\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">You can also opt for the restorative chicken soup at What the Cluck. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>You’ll additionally find a restorative chicken and rice soup with spinach leaves ($10.95), which I doctored up with some extra ginger at home to help keep a cold at bay (and boost up the flavor a bit). It hit the spot and the mushy brown rice was perfect in the soup. The food travels extremely well with delivery (there are a few tables and a counter but the place is pretty bare bones), and do note they close a little early. You can order for delivery on \u003ca href=\"http://fbuy.me/j32wv\">Grubhub\u003c/a> (and new customers, take $10 off your first order with that link).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You’ll also find KMG at nicer sit-down restaurants \u003ca href=\"https://www.hawkerfare.com/\">Hawker Fare\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://kinkhao.com/\">Kin Khao\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Don’t Miss This Moving INFORUM: Feeding Puerto Rico with Chef José Andrés\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Marines’ Memorial Theatre\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/6tiNas9XuuR2\">609 Sutter St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMonday September 17\u003cbr>\n5:30pm check-in, 6:30pm program\u003cbr>\nTickets: Members $25, Non-Members $40\u003cbr>\nPremium (includes a book and seating in the first few rows): Members $50, Non-Members $65; Students $10 (with valid I.D.)\u003cbr>\nKQED readers get 10% off with \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/feeding-puerto-rico-with-chef-jose-andres-tickets-48337838777?discount=KQED\">this link\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130164\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/JoseI%CC%80_-AndreI%CC%80_s_credit-Ryan-Forbes1-e1535152439863.jpg\" alt=\"Listen to chef José Andrés at this special INFORUM.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2793\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130164\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Listen to chef José Andrés at this special INFORUM. \u003ccite>(Ryan Forbes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In September 2017, many of us were in awe of chef José Andrés as he sprung into action to help the people of Puerto Rico when they were in dire need of assistance after Hurricane Maria wreaked havoc on the Caribbean. This was mere weeks after Hurricane Irma had swept through the islands, leaving millions without food or water and the largest power outage in American history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, September 17, it’s your chance to hear from the man himself at a special INFORUM at the Commonwealth Club: \u003ca href=\"http://inforumsf.org/upcoming-events/2018/8/1/feeding-puerto-rico-with-chef-jos-andrs\">Feeding Puerto Rico with Chef José Andrés\u003c/a>. Joining him is Tom Philpott, Food and Agriculture Correspondent, \u003ci>Mother Jones\u003c/i>. You will hear how Andrés managed to serve 3 million hot meals during his time in the country with #ChefsForPuertoRico and passionately rallied for disaster relief, helping to provide a framework for what humanitarian relief should look like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He founded his nonprofit, World Central Kitchen, after the devastating 2010 earthquake in Haiti with the belief that food can be an agent of change. The organization has expanded globally and developed into a group of chefs creating solutions to hunger and poverty, from providing food and aid during disasters like the Northern California wildfires to distributing meals and gas masks in evacuated areas on Hawaii’s Big Island after the Kilauea volcano erupted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130163\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2160px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC.png\" alt=\"José Andrés has a new book: We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time.\" width=\"2160\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130163\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC.png 2160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-160x80.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-800x400.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-768x384.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-1020x510.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-1200x600.png 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-1180x590.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-960x480.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-240x120.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-375x188.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/Jose-Andres-CWC-520x260.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2160px) 100vw, 2160px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">José Andrés has a new book: We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time. \u003ccite>(HarperCollins Publishers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He will also be discussing his book, \u003ci>We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time\u003c/i>. As a special offer to KQED readers, enjoy 10% off tickets with the link above.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Calling All Tequila Lovin’ Ladies (or Those Who Want to Learn More)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Agave Girls Dinner\u003c/b>\u003cbr>\nCopita Tequileria y Comida\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/FPEDPaoHFC62\">739 Bridgeway, Sausalito\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTuesday September 18\u003cbr>\n6:30pm–9pm\u003cbr>\n$80 per guest (plus $11.61 fee and tax), tickets available on \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/agave-girls-at-copita-tickets-47749961420?mc_cid=a2c05bc916&mc_eid=%5bUNIQID%5d\">Eventbrite\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/copita-Margarita2-e1535152026912.jpg\" alt=\"The tequila will be flowing at the upcoming Agave Girls night with Joanne Weir.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2891\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130160\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The tequila will be flowing at the upcoming Agave Girls night with Joanne Weir. \u003ccite>(Copita Tequileria y Comida)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>PBS chef and author (\u003ci>Kitchen Gypsy\u003c/i> and \u003ci>Tequila\u003c/i>) Joanne Weir is hosting an upcoming Agave Girls event on Tuesday, September 18 at her restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita Tequileria y Comida\u003c/a> in Sausalito (which she opened with Larry Mindel). 25 guests will enjoy passed appetizers and a tequila tasting flight from the evening’s sponsor, Dulce Vida, followed by a three-course dinner paired with tequila cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Weir first debuted the Agave Girls series in 2006, offering women a celebratory environment to enjoy and appreciate the flavor and history of tequila. It’s assuredly going to be a fun and enlightening evening. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "When The U.S. Government Tried To Replace Migrant Farmworkers With High Schoolers",
"title": "When The U.S. Government Tried To Replace Migrant Farmworkers With High Schoolers",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Randy Carter is a member of the Director's Guild of America and has notched some significant credits during his Hollywood career. Administrative assistant on \u003cem>The Conversation. \u003c/em>Part of the casting department for \u003cem>Apocalypse Now\u003c/em>. Longtime first assistant director on \u003cem>Seinfeld\u003c/em>. Work on \u003cem>The Blues Brothers\u003c/em>, \u003cem>The Godfather II\u003c/em> and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the one project that Carter regrets never working on is a script he wrote that got optioned twice but was never produced. It's about the summer a then-17-year-old Carter and thousands of American teenage boys heeded the call of the federal government ... to work on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The year was 1965. On Cinco de Mayo, newspapers across the country reported that Secretary of Labor W. Willard Wirtz wanted to recruit 20,000 high schoolers to replace the hundreds of thousands of Mexican agricultural workers who had labored in the United States under the so-called \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/07/31/634442195/when-the-u-s-government-tried-to-replace-migrant-farmworkers-with-high-schoolers?live=1\">Bracero Program\u003c/a>. Started in World War II, the program was an\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>agreement between the American and Mexican governments that brought Mexican men to pick harvests across the U.S. It ended in 1964, after years of accusations by \u003ca href=\"https://ufw.org/Cesar-Chavez-and-UFW-longtime-champions-of-immigration-reform/\">civil rights activists like Cesar Chavez\u003c/a> that migrants suffered wage theft and terrible working and living conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But farmers complained — in words that echo today's headlines — that Mexican laborers did the jobs that Americans didn't want to do, and that the end of the Bracero Program meant that crops would rot in the fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wirtz cited this labor shortage and a lack of summer jobs for high schoolers as reason enough for the program. But he didn't want just any band geek or nerd — he wanted jocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They can do the work,\" Wirtz said at a press conference in Washington, D.C., announcing the creation of the project, called A-TEAM — Athletes in Temporary Employment as Agricultural Manpower. \"They are entitled to a chance at it.\" Standing besides him to lend gravitas were future Baseball Hall of Famers Stan Musial and Warren Spahn and future Pro Football Hall of Famer Jim Brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the ensuing weeks, the Department of Labor, the Department of Agriculture, and the President's Council on Physical Fitness bought ads on radio and in magazines to try to lure lettermen. \"Farm Work Builds Men!\" screamed one such promotion, which featured 1964 Heisman Trophy winner John Huarte.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local newspapers across the country showcased their local A-TEAM with pride as they left for the summer. \u003cem>The Courier\u003c/em> of Waterloo, Iowa, for instance, ran a photo of beaming, bespectacled but scrawny boys boarding a bus for Salinas, where strawberries and asparagus awaited their smooth hands. \"A teacher-coach from [the nearby town of] Cresco will serve as adviser to all 31,\" students, the \u003cem>Courier\u003c/em> reassured its readers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the national press was immediately skeptical. \"Dealing with crops which grow close to the ground requires a good deal stronger motive\" than money or the prospects of a good workout, argued a \u003cem>Detroit Free Press\u003c/em> editorial. \"Like, for instance, gnawing hunger.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite such skepticism,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Wirtz's scheme seemed to work at first: About 18,100 teenagers signed up to join the A-TEAM. But only about 3,300 of them ever got to pick crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of them was Carter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was a junior at the now-closed University of San Diego High School, an all-boys Catholic school in Southern California. About 25 of his classmates decided to sign up for the A-TEAM because, as he recalls with a laugh more than 50 years later, \"We thought, 'I'm not doing anything else this summer, so why not?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Funny enough, Carter says none of the recruits from his school — himself included — were actually athletes:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"The football coach told [the sportsters], 'You're not going. We've got two-a-day practices — you're not going to go pick strawberries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students from across the country began showing up on farms in Texas and California at the beginning of June. Carter and his classmates were assigned to pick cantaloupes near Blythe, a small town on the Colorado River in the middle of California's Colorado Desert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers the first day vividly. Work started before dawn, the better to avoid the unforgiving desert sun to come. \"The wind is in your hair, and you don't think it's bad,\" Carter says. \"Then you go out in the field, and the first ray of sun comes over the horizon. \u003cem>The first ray\u003c/em>. Everyone looked at each other, and said, 'What did we do?' The thermometer went up like in a Bugs Bunny cartoon. By 9 a.m., it was 110 degrees.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130146\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks.jpeg\" alt='The migrant labor barracks where Randy Carter and his high school classmates lived during the summer of 1965 were still standing in 1992, when Carter took this photo. Carter says the barracks had no insulation and no air conditioning, with \"nighttime temperatures in the 90s.\"' width=\"800\" height=\"549\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-160x110.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-768x527.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-240x165.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-375x257.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-520x357.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The migrant labor barracks where Randy Carter and his high school classmates lived during the summer of 1965 were still standing in 1992, when Carter took this photo. Carter says the barracks had no insulation and no air conditioning, with \"nighttime temperatures in the 90s.\" \u003ccite>(Randy Carter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Garden gloves that the farmers gave the students to help them harvest lasted only\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>four hours\u003cstrong>,\u003c/strong> because the cantaloupe's fine hairs made grabbing them feel like \"picking up sandpaper.\" They got paid minimum wage — $1.40 an hour back then — plus 5 cents for every crate filled with about 30 to 36 fruits. Breakfast was \"out of the Navy,\" Carter says — beans and eggs and bologna sandwiches that literally toasted in the heat, even in the shade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The University High crew worked six days a week, with Sundays off, and they\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>were not allowed to return home during their stint. The farmers sheltered them in \"any kind of defunct housing,\" according to Carter — old Army barracks, rooms made from discarded wood, and even buildings used to intern Japanese-Americans during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Problems arose immediately for the A-TEAM nationwide. In California's Salinas Valley, 200 teenagers from New Mexico, Kansas and Wyoming quit after just two weeks on the job. \"We worked three days and all of us are broke,\" the Associated Press quoted one teen as saying. Students elsewhere staged strikes. At the end, the A-TEAM was considered a giant failure and was never tried again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This experiment quickly disappeared into the proverbial dustbin of history. In fact, when Stony Brook University history professor \u003ca href=\"https://www.stonybrook.edu/commcms/history/people/faculty/flores.html\">Lori A. Flores\u003c/a> did research for what became her award-winning 2016 book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Grounds-Dreaming-Immigrants-California-Farmworker/dp/0300196962\">\u003cem>Grounds for Dreaming: Mexican Americans, Mexican Immigrants, and the California Farmworker Movement\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, she discovered the controversy for the first time. Until then, the only time she had heard of any A-TEAM, she now says with a laugh, \"was the TV show.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flores thinks the program deserves more attention from historians and the public alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These [high school students] had the words and whiteness to say what they were feeling and could act out in a way that Mexican-Americans who had been living this way for decades simply didn't have the power or space for the American public to listen to them,\" she says. \"The students dropped out because the conditions were so atrocious, and the growers weren't able to mask that up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says the A-TEAM \"reveals a very important reality: It's not about work ethic [for undocumented workers]. It's about [the fact] that this labor is not meant to be done under such bad conditions and bad wages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carter agrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we took a vote that first day, we would've left,\" he says of his friends. \"But it literally became a thing of pride. We weren't going to be fired, and we weren't going to quit. We were going to finish it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The students tried to make the most of their summer. On their Sundays off, they would swim in irrigation canals or hitchhike into downtown Blythe and try to get cowboys to buy them a six-pack of beer. Each high school team was supposed to have a college-age chaperone, but Carter said theirs would \"be there for a day, and then disappear to go to Mexico or surfing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carter and his classmates still talk about their A-TEAM days at every class reunion. \"We went through something that you can't explain to anyone, unless you were out there in that friggin' heat,\" the 70-year-old says. \"It could only be lived.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says the experience also taught them empathy toward immigrant workers\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>that Carter says the rest of the country should learn, especially during these times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's nothing you can say to us that [migrant laborers] are rapists or they're lazy,\" he says. \"We know the work they do. And they do it all their lives, not just one summer for a couple of months. And they raise their families on it. Anyone ever talks bad on them, I always think, 'Keep talking, buddy, because I know what the real deal is.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Gustavo Arellano is the author of \u003c/em>Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America\u003cem>, and a longtime guest on NPR's \"Barbershop\" segment on \u003c/em>Weekend All Things Considered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=When+The+U.S.+Government+Tried+To+Replace+Migrant+Farmworkers+With+High+Schoolers&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In 1964, a program that brought migrant Mexican laborers to the U.S. ended. So the U.S. recruited American students to pick crops instead. When they saw their living conditions, strikes ensued.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Randy Carter is a member of the Director's Guild of America and has notched some significant credits during his Hollywood career. Administrative assistant on \u003cem>The Conversation. \u003c/em>Part of the casting department for \u003cem>Apocalypse Now\u003c/em>. Longtime first assistant director on \u003cem>Seinfeld\u003c/em>. Work on \u003cem>The Blues Brothers\u003c/em>, \u003cem>The Godfather II\u003c/em> and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the one project that Carter regrets never working on is a script he wrote that got optioned twice but was never produced. It's about the summer a then-17-year-old Carter and thousands of American teenage boys heeded the call of the federal government ... to work on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The year was 1965. On Cinco de Mayo, newspapers across the country reported that Secretary of Labor W. Willard Wirtz wanted to recruit 20,000 high schoolers to replace the hundreds of thousands of Mexican agricultural workers who had labored in the United States under the so-called \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/07/31/634442195/when-the-u-s-government-tried-to-replace-migrant-farmworkers-with-high-schoolers?live=1\">Bracero Program\u003c/a>. Started in World War II, the program was an\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>agreement between the American and Mexican governments that brought Mexican men to pick harvests across the U.S. It ended in 1964, after years of accusations by \u003ca href=\"https://ufw.org/Cesar-Chavez-and-UFW-longtime-champions-of-immigration-reform/\">civil rights activists like Cesar Chavez\u003c/a> that migrants suffered wage theft and terrible working and living conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But farmers complained — in words that echo today's headlines — that Mexican laborers did the jobs that Americans didn't want to do, and that the end of the Bracero Program meant that crops would rot in the fields.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wirtz cited this labor shortage and a lack of summer jobs for high schoolers as reason enough for the program. But he didn't want just any band geek or nerd — he wanted jocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They can do the work,\" Wirtz said at a press conference in Washington, D.C., announcing the creation of the project, called A-TEAM — Athletes in Temporary Employment as Agricultural Manpower. \"They are entitled to a chance at it.\" Standing besides him to lend gravitas were future Baseball Hall of Famers Stan Musial and Warren Spahn and future Pro Football Hall of Famer Jim Brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the ensuing weeks, the Department of Labor, the Department of Agriculture, and the President's Council on Physical Fitness bought ads on radio and in magazines to try to lure lettermen. \"Farm Work Builds Men!\" screamed one such promotion, which featured 1964 Heisman Trophy winner John Huarte.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Local newspapers across the country showcased their local A-TEAM with pride as they left for the summer. \u003cem>The Courier\u003c/em> of Waterloo, Iowa, for instance, ran a photo of beaming, bespectacled but scrawny boys boarding a bus for Salinas, where strawberries and asparagus awaited their smooth hands. \"A teacher-coach from [the nearby town of] Cresco will serve as adviser to all 31,\" students, the \u003cem>Courier\u003c/em> reassured its readers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the national press was immediately skeptical. \"Dealing with crops which grow close to the ground requires a good deal stronger motive\" than money or the prospects of a good workout, argued a \u003cem>Detroit Free Press\u003c/em> editorial. \"Like, for instance, gnawing hunger.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite such skepticism,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Wirtz's scheme seemed to work at first: About 18,100 teenagers signed up to join the A-TEAM. But only about 3,300 of them ever got to pick crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of them was Carter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was a junior at the now-closed University of San Diego High School, an all-boys Catholic school in Southern California. About 25 of his classmates decided to sign up for the A-TEAM because, as he recalls with a laugh more than 50 years later, \"We thought, 'I'm not doing anything else this summer, so why not?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Funny enough, Carter says none of the recruits from his school — himself included — were actually athletes:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"The football coach told [the sportsters], 'You're not going. We've got two-a-day practices — you're not going to go pick strawberries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students from across the country began showing up on farms in Texas and California at the beginning of June. Carter and his classmates were assigned to pick cantaloupes near Blythe, a small town on the Colorado River in the middle of California's Colorado Desert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers the first day vividly. Work started before dawn, the better to avoid the unforgiving desert sun to come. \"The wind is in your hair, and you don't think it's bad,\" Carter says. \"Then you go out in the field, and the first ray of sun comes over the horizon. \u003cem>The first ray\u003c/em>. Everyone looked at each other, and said, 'What did we do?' The thermometer went up like in a Bugs Bunny cartoon. By 9 a.m., it was 110 degrees.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130146\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks.jpeg\" alt='The migrant labor barracks where Randy Carter and his high school classmates lived during the summer of 1965 were still standing in 1992, when Carter took this photo. Carter says the barracks had no insulation and no air conditioning, with \"nighttime temperatures in the 90s.\"' width=\"800\" height=\"549\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-160x110.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-768x527.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-240x165.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-375x257.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/08/migrant-labor-barracks-520x357.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The migrant labor barracks where Randy Carter and his high school classmates lived during the summer of 1965 were still standing in 1992, when Carter took this photo. Carter says the barracks had no insulation and no air conditioning, with \"nighttime temperatures in the 90s.\" \u003ccite>(Randy Carter)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Garden gloves that the farmers gave the students to help them harvest lasted only\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>four hours\u003cstrong>,\u003c/strong> because the cantaloupe's fine hairs made grabbing them feel like \"picking up sandpaper.\" They got paid minimum wage — $1.40 an hour back then — plus 5 cents for every crate filled with about 30 to 36 fruits. Breakfast was \"out of the Navy,\" Carter says — beans and eggs and bologna sandwiches that literally toasted in the heat, even in the shade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The University High crew worked six days a week, with Sundays off, and they\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>were not allowed to return home during their stint. The farmers sheltered them in \"any kind of defunct housing,\" according to Carter — old Army barracks, rooms made from discarded wood, and even buildings used to intern Japanese-Americans during World War II.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Problems arose immediately for the A-TEAM nationwide. In California's Salinas Valley, 200 teenagers from New Mexico, Kansas and Wyoming quit after just two weeks on the job. \"We worked three days and all of us are broke,\" the Associated Press quoted one teen as saying. Students elsewhere staged strikes. At the end, the A-TEAM was considered a giant failure and was never tried again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This experiment quickly disappeared into the proverbial dustbin of history. In fact, when Stony Brook University history professor \u003ca href=\"https://www.stonybrook.edu/commcms/history/people/faculty/flores.html\">Lori A. Flores\u003c/a> did research for what became her award-winning 2016 book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Grounds-Dreaming-Immigrants-California-Farmworker/dp/0300196962\">\u003cem>Grounds for Dreaming: Mexican Americans, Mexican Immigrants, and the California Farmworker Movement\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, she discovered the controversy for the first time. Until then, the only time she had heard of any A-TEAM, she now says with a laugh, \"was the TV show.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flores thinks the program deserves more attention from historians and the public alike.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"These [high school students] had the words and whiteness to say what they were feeling and could act out in a way that Mexican-Americans who had been living this way for decades simply didn't have the power or space for the American public to listen to them,\" she says. \"The students dropped out because the conditions were so atrocious, and the growers weren't able to mask that up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says the A-TEAM \"reveals a very important reality: It's not about work ethic [for undocumented workers]. It's about [the fact] that this labor is not meant to be done under such bad conditions and bad wages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carter agrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If we took a vote that first day, we would've left,\" he says of his friends. \"But it literally became a thing of pride. We weren't going to be fired, and we weren't going to quit. We were going to finish it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The students tried to make the most of their summer. On their Sundays off, they would swim in irrigation canals or hitchhike into downtown Blythe and try to get cowboys to buy them a six-pack of beer. Each high school team was supposed to have a college-age chaperone, but Carter said theirs would \"be there for a day, and then disappear to go to Mexico or surfing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carter and his classmates still talk about their A-TEAM days at every class reunion. \"We went through something that you can't explain to anyone, unless you were out there in that friggin' heat,\" the 70-year-old says. \"It could only be lived.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says the experience also taught them empathy toward immigrant workers\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>that Carter says the rest of the country should learn, especially during these times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's nothing you can say to us that [migrant laborers] are rapists or they're lazy,\" he says. \"We know the work they do. And they do it all their lives, not just one summer for a couple of months. And they raise their families on it. Anyone ever talks bad on them, I always think, 'Keep talking, buddy, because I know what the real deal is.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Gustavo Arellano is the author of \u003c/em>Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America\u003cem>, and a longtime guest on NPR's \"Barbershop\" segment on \u003c/em>Weekend All Things Considered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=When+The+U.S.+Government+Tried+To+Replace+Migrant+Farmworkers+With+High+Schoolers&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming",
"title": "14,000-Year-Old Piece Of Bread Rewrites The History Of Baking And Farming",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When an archaeologist working on an excavation site in Jordan first swept up the tiny black particles scattered around an ancient fireplace, she had no idea they were going to change the history of food and agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amaia Arranz-Otaegui is an archaeobotanist from the University of Copenhagen. She was collecting dinner leftovers of the Natufians, a hunter-gatherer tribe that lived in the area more than 14,000 years ago during the Epipaleolithic time — a period between the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Natufians were hunters, which one could clearly tell from the bones of gazelles, sheep and hares that littered the cooking pit. But it turns out the Natufians were bakers, too --at a time well before scientists thought it was possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Arranz-Otaegui sifted through the swept-up silt, the black particles appeared to be charred food remains. \"They looked like what we find in our toasters,\" she says — except no one ever heard of people making bread so early in human history. \"I could tell they were processed plants,\" Arranz-Otaegui says, \"but I didn't really know what they were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So she took her burnt findings to a colleague, \u003ca href=\"https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/researchers-in-museums/category/c-e/lara-gonzalez-carretero/\">Lara Gonzalez Carretero\u003c/a> at University College London Institute of Archaeology, whose specialty is identifying prehistoric food remains, bread in particular. She concluded that what Arranz-Otaegui had unearthed was a handful of truly primordial breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We both realized we were looking at the oldest bread remains in the world,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. They were both quite surprised — with good reason.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/175338_wide-a8640cb968770a59a637272ee4586099441b85ac-e1532537327992.jpg\" alt=\"A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129695\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for. \u003ccite>(Alexis Pantos)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The established archaeological doctrine states that humans first began baking bread about 10,000 years ago. That was a pivotal time in our evolution. Humans gave up their nomadic way of life, settled down and began farming and growing cereals. Once they had various grains handy, they began milling them into flour and making bread. In other words, until now we thought that our ancestors were farmers first and bakers second. But Arranz-Otaegui's breadcrumbs predate the advent of agriculture by at least 4,000 years. That means that our ancestors were bakers first —and learned to farm afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Finding bread in this Epipaleolithic site was the last thing we expected!\" says Arranz-Otaegui. \"We used to think that the first bread appeared during the Neolithic times, when people started to cultivate cereal, but it now seems they learned to make bread earlier.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you think about it, the idea that early humans learned to bake before settling down to farm is logical, the researchers behind the finding say. Making bread is a labor-intensive process that involves removing husks, grinding cereals, kneading the dough and then baking it. The fact that our ancestors were willing to invest so much effort into the prehistoric pastry suggests that they considered bread a special treat. Baking bread could have been reserved for special occasions or to impress important guests. The people's desire to indulge more often may have prompted them to begin cultivating cereals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In our opinion, instead of domesticating cereals first, the bread-making culture could have been something that actually fueled the domestication of cereal,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. \"So maybe it was the other way around [from what we previously thought.]\" The \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2018/07/10/1801071115\">research\u003c/a> appears in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.oeaw.ac.at/oeai/das-institut/team/zentrale-wien/heiss-andreas-g/\">Andreas Heiss\u003c/a>, an archaeologist at the Austrian Academy of Science who is familiar with the project but not directly involved in the study, finds the discovery \"thrilling.\" He says it shows that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It tells us that our ancestors were smart people who knew how to use their environment well,\" Heiss says. \"It also tells us that processing food is a much more basic technique in human history than we thought — maybe as old as hunting and gathering.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the team analyzed the crumbs further, they found out that the Natufians were sophisticated cooks. Their flour was made from two different types of ingredients — wild wheat called einkorn and the roots of club-rush tubers, a type of a flowering plant. That particular combination allowed them to make pliable elastic dough that could be pressed onto the walls of their fireplace pits, much like flatbreads are baked today in tandoori overs — and baked to perfection. Besides the einkorn and tubers, the team also found traces of barley and oats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Natufians may have had rather developed taste buds, too. They liked to toss some spices and condiments into their dishes, particularly mustard seeds. \"We found a lot of wild mustard seeds, not in the bread but in the overall assemblage,\" says Gonzalez Carretero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, she adds, mustard seeds had also been found in some bread remains excavated from other sites, so it's possible that Natufians sprinkled a few on their own pastries. So far, the team has analyzed only 25 breadcrumbs with about 600 more to go, so they think chances are good that some charred pieces with mustard seeds might turn up. Arranz-Otaegui thinks it's possible. \"The seeds have [a] very particular taste, so why not use them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exactly how delicious was this special Natufian treat? It's hard to tell. Modern-day bread recipes don't include ancient wheat or roots of tuberous plants. But Arranz-Otaegui does want to find out how the Epipaleolithic bread played on the palate. She has been gathering the einkorn seeds, as well as peeling and grinding the tubers. She plans to partner up with a skilled chef and baker to reconstruct the exact mixture in correct proportions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be the oldest bread recipe ever created by mankind.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lina Zeldovich is a science and food writer based in New York City.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=14%2C000-Year-Old+Piece+Of+Bread+Rewrites+The+History+Of+Baking+And+Farming&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Breadcrumbs found at an excavation in Jordan reveal that humans were baking thousands of years earlier than previously believed. It may have even prompted them to settle down and plant cereals.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When an archaeologist working on an excavation site in Jordan first swept up the tiny black particles scattered around an ancient fireplace, she had no idea they were going to change the history of food and agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amaia Arranz-Otaegui is an archaeobotanist from the University of Copenhagen. She was collecting dinner leftovers of the Natufians, a hunter-gatherer tribe that lived in the area more than 14,000 years ago during the Epipaleolithic time — a period between the Paleolithic and Neolithic eras.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Natufians were hunters, which one could clearly tell from the bones of gazelles, sheep and hares that littered the cooking pit. But it turns out the Natufians were bakers, too --at a time well before scientists thought it was possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Arranz-Otaegui sifted through the swept-up silt, the black particles appeared to be charred food remains. \"They looked like what we find in our toasters,\" she says — except no one ever heard of people making bread so early in human history. \"I could tell they were processed plants,\" Arranz-Otaegui says, \"but I didn't really know what they were.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So she took her burnt findings to a colleague, \u003ca href=\"https://blogs.ucl.ac.uk/researchers-in-museums/category/c-e/lara-gonzalez-carretero/\">Lara Gonzalez Carretero\u003c/a> at University College London Institute of Archaeology, whose specialty is identifying prehistoric food remains, bread in particular. She concluded that what Arranz-Otaegui had unearthed was a handful of truly primordial breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We both realized we were looking at the oldest bread remains in the world,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. They were both quite surprised — with good reason.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129695\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/175338_wide-a8640cb968770a59a637272ee4586099441b85ac-e1532537327992.jpg\" alt=\"A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129695\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A researcher gathers breadcrumbs at an excavation site in Jordan. The 14,000-year-old crumbs suggest that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for. \u003ccite>(Alexis Pantos)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The established archaeological doctrine states that humans first began baking bread about 10,000 years ago. That was a pivotal time in our evolution. Humans gave up their nomadic way of life, settled down and began farming and growing cereals. Once they had various grains handy, they began milling them into flour and making bread. In other words, until now we thought that our ancestors were farmers first and bakers second. But Arranz-Otaegui's breadcrumbs predate the advent of agriculture by at least 4,000 years. That means that our ancestors were bakers first —and learned to farm afterwards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Finding bread in this Epipaleolithic site was the last thing we expected!\" says Arranz-Otaegui. \"We used to think that the first bread appeared during the Neolithic times, when people started to cultivate cereal, but it now seems they learned to make bread earlier.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you think about it, the idea that early humans learned to bake before settling down to farm is logical, the researchers behind the finding say. Making bread is a labor-intensive process that involves removing husks, grinding cereals, kneading the dough and then baking it. The fact that our ancestors were willing to invest so much effort into the prehistoric pastry suggests that they considered bread a special treat. Baking bread could have been reserved for special occasions or to impress important guests. The people's desire to indulge more often may have prompted them to begin cultivating cereals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In our opinion, instead of domesticating cereals first, the bread-making culture could have been something that actually fueled the domestication of cereal,\" says Gonzalez Carretero. \"So maybe it was the other way around [from what we previously thought.]\" The \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2018/07/10/1801071115\">research\u003c/a> appears in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.oeaw.ac.at/oeai/das-institut/team/zentrale-wien/heiss-andreas-g/\">Andreas Heiss\u003c/a>, an archaeologist at the Austrian Academy of Science who is familiar with the project but not directly involved in the study, finds the discovery \"thrilling.\" He says it shows that ancient tribes were quite adept at food-making techniques, and developed them earlier than we had given them credit for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It tells us that our ancestors were smart people who knew how to use their environment well,\" Heiss says. \"It also tells us that processing food is a much more basic technique in human history than we thought — maybe as old as hunting and gathering.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the team analyzed the crumbs further, they found out that the Natufians were sophisticated cooks. Their flour was made from two different types of ingredients — wild wheat called einkorn and the roots of club-rush tubers, a type of a flowering plant. That particular combination allowed them to make pliable elastic dough that could be pressed onto the walls of their fireplace pits, much like flatbreads are baked today in tandoori overs — and baked to perfection. Besides the einkorn and tubers, the team also found traces of barley and oats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Natufians may have had rather developed taste buds, too. They liked to toss some spices and condiments into their dishes, particularly mustard seeds. \"We found a lot of wild mustard seeds, not in the bread but in the overall assemblage,\" says Gonzalez Carretero.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, she adds, mustard seeds had also been found in some bread remains excavated from other sites, so it's possible that Natufians sprinkled a few on their own pastries. So far, the team has analyzed only 25 breadcrumbs with about 600 more to go, so they think chances are good that some charred pieces with mustard seeds might turn up. Arranz-Otaegui thinks it's possible. \"The seeds have [a] very particular taste, so why not use them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exactly how delicious was this special Natufian treat? It's hard to tell. Modern-day bread recipes don't include ancient wheat or roots of tuberous plants. But Arranz-Otaegui does want to find out how the Epipaleolithic bread played on the palate. She has been gathering the einkorn seeds, as well as peeling and grinding the tubers. She plans to partner up with a skilled chef and baker to reconstruct the exact mixture in correct proportions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It will be the oldest bread recipe ever created by mankind.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lina Zeldovich is a science and food writer based in New York City.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=14%2C000-Year-Old+Piece+Of+Bread+Rewrites+The+History+Of+Baking+And+Farming&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Carne Asada, Hold The Meat: Why Latinos Are Embracing Vegan-Mexican Cuisine",
"title": "Carne Asada, Hold The Meat: Why Latinos Are Embracing Vegan-Mexican Cuisine",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Tall, dreadlocked Josh Scheper knew he was out of place as he surveyed the scene at a Santa Ana, Calif., parking lot on a Sunday morning this past April. And the 46-year-old loved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hundreds of people waited in line at stalls for vegan food, but few people looked like the Los Angeles resident. Nearly everyone in the crowd was young and Latino, as were the chefs. The food on sale was Mexican — but not hippie-dippy cafe standbys like cauliflower tacos, or tempeh-stuffed burritos. Instead, chefs reimagined meaty classics that were honest-to-goodness \u003cem>bueno\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/vegatinos\">Vegatinos\u003c/a> offered jackfruit tacos, the fruit cooked so that it tasted like al pastor, the spiced pork-on-a-spit tradition from central Mexico. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/veganbyvictorias\">Vegan by Victoria's\u003c/a>, the host of the event, hawked dairy-free Mexican and Salvadoran pan dulce (sweet bread). Another stall blasted ranchera music as a stern-looking millennial wearing a Los Angeles Dodgers hat and a Pendleton jacket ladled vegan pozole (hominy stew usually prepared with pork) into big bowls while he sung its praises to a customer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scheper stared in awe at it all. \"[I'm] happy to not have white hipster vegans run all the vegan stuff,\" he finally said, tongue only somewhat in cheek.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegan Latino cuisine has received some mainstream attention this decade, from New York City (where Erick Castro shares his Puerto Rican creations on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/howtobeveganinthehood/\">How to Be Vegan in the Hood\u003c/a>) to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/healthyvoyager\">Colombian-American cookbook author Carolyn Scott-Hamilton\u003c/a> in Miami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But over the past year, pop-up festivals organized around Vegan-Mex vendors in Southern California have become a local sensation. They usually occur in working-class Latino suburbs like Santa Ana, Ontario, Highland Park, and Whittier. Full-time vegans – or white ones, for that matter — are a minority at these events. The majority of customers are young Mexican-Americans who heard about the pop-ups on social media, or through word-of-mouth best summed up the following way: \u003cem>No, seriously, it's good! And it tastes like the real thing!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movement's hype is such that vegan caterer La Venganza won \u003ca href=\"http://www.lataco.com/your-taco-madness-2018-recap-photos/\">L.A. Taco's annual Taco Madness competition\u003c/a> for best taco in Southern California, beating far-more-established (and non-vegan) competitors. It's a victory that chef-owner Raul Medina quickly downplays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I didn't win,\" he said. \"Veganism did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/vegana_mexicana_family-7ecccab3787805dac706d2b4e23d2b64e8c97b73-e1532044307220.jpg\" alt=\"Loreta Ruiz (center) runs La Vegana Mexicana, a food pop-up based in Southern California, with her children, Loreta Sierra (left) and Luis Sierra.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129465\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Loreta Ruiz (center) runs La Vegana Mexicana, a food pop-up based in Southern California, with her children, Loreta Sierra (left) and Luis Sierra. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Arellano/for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fast-talking, wise-cracking 34-year-old Medina is typical of a new generation of Vegan-Mex chefs: He simultaneously rejects \u003cem>and\u003c/em> embraces the meatier side of Mexican food. Medina uses everything from jackfruit to the hardened skim of soy milk to tackle taco classics like carne asada, chicken, and even \u003cem>tripitas \u003c/em>— beef tripe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Medina says a white vegan customer \"once came up and asked, 'Why would you veganize \u003cem>tripitas\u003c/em>?' \" he said with a laugh. \"Because it's culturally nostalgic working-class food. You can't just dismiss that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Medina started La Venganza three years ago in Oakland, while working as a paralegal for an immigration attorney. \"I wanted to find a good vegan taco de carnitas,\" he said, \"and I couldn't find an affordable one. They were only at affluent vegan hipster spots.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He took inspiration from vegan traditions in the East Bay's communities of color, specifically Buddhist temples and \u003ca href=\"http://souleyvegan.com/\">Souley Vegan\u003c/a>, a famous soul food spot. And he also thought about his father, who was dying of complications from diabetes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone has a dad like that,\" Medina said, a reference to the fact that \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/features/hispanichealth/index.html\">U.S. Latinos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.nih.gov/news-events/nih-research-matters/factors-contributing-higher-incidence-diabetes-black-americans\">African-Americans\u003c/a> are more likely to develop Type 2 diabetes than whites. There are many factors behind these health disparities, including \u003ca href=\"https://hub.jhu.edu/magazine/2014/spring/racial-food-deserts/\">limited access\u003c/a> to stores that sell fresh, healthy foods in lower-income Latino and African-American communities. Health concerns are one reason why veganism is \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/28/dining/black-vegan-cooking.html\">growing in popularity\u003c/a> among African-Americans today. \"Blacks .... already had a solution for food deserts,\" Medina said. \"It's called veganism.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Medina moved down to Southern California last year after his father died and decided to keep La Venganza catering going in memory of his \u003cem>papi\u003c/em>. He offers tacos every Tuesday at \u003ca href=\"https://missionbarsa.com/\">Mission Bar in Santa Ana\u003c/a>; on a recent evening, the line was nearly out the door. Working with pre-cooked ingredients and a hot plate to heat tortillas, Medina cranked out tacos almost as fast as he got orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Limes, bro, you forgot the limes!\" he cracked at an Asian-American customer who had quickly run off with chorizo tacos made from granulated beets. \"It's the worst, nastiest, saltiest, oiliest meat you can find,\" Medina said of the traditional pork sausage. \"Why \u003cem>not\u003c/em> make it vegan? Why are we just giving up that [vegan] market to rich people? We need to take back our ingredients and meals, and make it available to people of color.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are no hard numbers on how many Mexican-Americans are vegan, but this way of eating isn't so far off from what their ancestors ate in pre-Columbian times. Before the Conquest, most of Mexico's indigenous natives followed a plant-based diet. Beef, pork, chicken, lamb and goat — the mainstay meats of modern-day Mexican food — all came with the Spaniards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many of our dishes are vegan by nature,\" says Loreta Ruiz, who \u003ca href=\"https://www.laveganamexicana.com/\">runs La Vegana Mexicana\u003c/a> with her two college-age children, Loreta and Luis Sierra. \"But just the word 'vegan' scares [Mexican] people. It's like, 'Our food is so rich and so beautiful, why are you going to alter it?'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Vegana specializes in tamales, using a lard-free masa (cornmeal) that Ruiz said took two years to perfect so that her tamales are properly fluffy and moist. She and her children do stage pop-up food tents at community festivals, but their focus is on trying to break into restaurants and supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruiz grew up in Mexico City with a father who was vegan \"before it was a thing.\" But she didn't give veganism a try until her daughter, Loreta, was 8. \"Even at that age,\" Ruiz said, \"she was questioning about why we needed to drink milk, or why we needed to kill animals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family tried to go vegan to support the young Loreta but found that a lot of the vegan food at the time was processed \"and didn't even taste good.\" So Ruiz experimented in her kitchen until friends suggested she sell food to the public. Her job with the Mexican consulate kept her busy, but she finally decided to debut La Vegana last year at a Dia de los Muertos event. The family sold tamales so fast that they couldn't thaw them out quick enough. But customers didn't seem to care – drawn perhaps by the novelty at first, they stayed around for the flavor, Ruiz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I was amazed at how many people wanted to try our tamales,\" Ruiz said. \"One guy came back seven times through the night, because he wanted to try them all!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruiz's daughter, Loreta Sierra, isn't surprised that Latinos of her generation seem more open to going vegan. (A young Salvadoran chef in Los Angeles \u003ca href=\"http://www.lataco.com/meet-the-l-a-chef-who-has-veganized-40-dishes-from-el-salvador-and-is-going-for-more/\">veganized over 40 of her country's meals\u003c/a>). \"Our generation overall is more concerned about environmentalism and environmental racism — the future of our planet,\" says the 22-year-old, who is currently an undergraduate at the University of California, Los Angeles. \"If we want to have a habitable planet, we need to start being more proactive in what we consume.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her brother, Luis Sierra, still encounters heavy skepticism from other Mexican-Americans about his Vegan-Mex lifestyle, but he takes it in stride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Guys on my crew, they make fun of me all the time,\" says the 19-year-old, who volunteers for the Los Angeles Fire Department. \"'Oh, yeah, that's why you're so skinny!' But then I give them one of my mom's tamales, and they change their mind right away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Gustavo Arellano is the author of \u003c/em>Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America\u003cem>, and a longtime guest on NPR's \"Barbershop\" segment on \u003c/em>Weekend All Things Considered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Tall, dreadlocked Josh Scheper knew he was out of place as he surveyed the scene at a Santa Ana, Calif., parking lot on a Sunday morning this past April. And the 46-year-old loved it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hundreds of people waited in line at stalls for vegan food, but few people looked like the Los Angeles resident. Nearly everyone in the crowd was young and Latino, as were the chefs. The food on sale was Mexican — but not hippie-dippy cafe standbys like cauliflower tacos, or tempeh-stuffed burritos. Instead, chefs reimagined meaty classics that were honest-to-goodness \u003cem>bueno\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/vegatinos\">Vegatinos\u003c/a> offered jackfruit tacos, the fruit cooked so that it tasted like al pastor, the spiced pork-on-a-spit tradition from central Mexico. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/veganbyvictorias\">Vegan by Victoria's\u003c/a>, the host of the event, hawked dairy-free Mexican and Salvadoran pan dulce (sweet bread). Another stall blasted ranchera music as a stern-looking millennial wearing a Los Angeles Dodgers hat and a Pendleton jacket ladled vegan pozole (hominy stew usually prepared with pork) into big bowls while he sung its praises to a customer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scheper stared in awe at it all. \"[I'm] happy to not have white hipster vegans run all the vegan stuff,\" he finally said, tongue only somewhat in cheek.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegan Latino cuisine has received some mainstream attention this decade, from New York City (where Erick Castro shares his Puerto Rican creations on Instagram at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/howtobeveganinthehood/\">How to Be Vegan in the Hood\u003c/a>) to \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/healthyvoyager\">Colombian-American cookbook author Carolyn Scott-Hamilton\u003c/a> in Miami.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But over the past year, pop-up festivals organized around Vegan-Mex vendors in Southern California have become a local sensation. They usually occur in working-class Latino suburbs like Santa Ana, Ontario, Highland Park, and Whittier. Full-time vegans – or white ones, for that matter — are a minority at these events. The majority of customers are young Mexican-Americans who heard about the pop-ups on social media, or through word-of-mouth best summed up the following way: \u003cem>No, seriously, it's good! And it tastes like the real thing!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The movement's hype is such that vegan caterer La Venganza won \u003ca href=\"http://www.lataco.com/your-taco-madness-2018-recap-photos/\">L.A. Taco's annual Taco Madness competition\u003c/a> for best taco in Southern California, beating far-more-established (and non-vegan) competitors. It's a victory that chef-owner Raul Medina quickly downplays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I didn't win,\" he said. \"Veganism did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129465\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/vegana_mexicana_family-7ecccab3787805dac706d2b4e23d2b64e8c97b73-e1532044307220.jpg\" alt=\"Loreta Ruiz (center) runs La Vegana Mexicana, a food pop-up based in Southern California, with her children, Loreta Sierra (left) and Luis Sierra.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129465\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Loreta Ruiz (center) runs La Vegana Mexicana, a food pop-up based in Southern California, with her children, Loreta Sierra (left) and Luis Sierra. \u003ccite>(Gustavo Arellano/for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fast-talking, wise-cracking 34-year-old Medina is typical of a new generation of Vegan-Mex chefs: He simultaneously rejects \u003cem>and\u003c/em> embraces the meatier side of Mexican food. Medina uses everything from jackfruit to the hardened skim of soy milk to tackle taco classics like carne asada, chicken, and even \u003cem>tripitas \u003c/em>— beef tripe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Medina says a white vegan customer \"once came up and asked, 'Why would you veganize \u003cem>tripitas\u003c/em>?' \" he said with a laugh. \"Because it's culturally nostalgic working-class food. You can't just dismiss that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Medina started La Venganza three years ago in Oakland, while working as a paralegal for an immigration attorney. \"I wanted to find a good vegan taco de carnitas,\" he said, \"and I couldn't find an affordable one. They were only at affluent vegan hipster spots.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He took inspiration from vegan traditions in the East Bay's communities of color, specifically Buddhist temples and \u003ca href=\"http://souleyvegan.com/\">Souley Vegan\u003c/a>, a famous soul food spot. And he also thought about his father, who was dying of complications from diabetes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone has a dad like that,\" Medina said, a reference to the fact that \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/features/hispanichealth/index.html\">U.S. Latinos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.nih.gov/news-events/nih-research-matters/factors-contributing-higher-incidence-diabetes-black-americans\">African-Americans\u003c/a> are more likely to develop Type 2 diabetes than whites. There are many factors behind these health disparities, including \u003ca href=\"https://hub.jhu.edu/magazine/2014/spring/racial-food-deserts/\">limited access\u003c/a> to stores that sell fresh, healthy foods in lower-income Latino and African-American communities. Health concerns are one reason why veganism is \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/28/dining/black-vegan-cooking.html\">growing in popularity\u003c/a> among African-Americans today. \"Blacks .... already had a solution for food deserts,\" Medina said. \"It's called veganism.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Medina moved down to Southern California last year after his father died and decided to keep La Venganza catering going in memory of his \u003cem>papi\u003c/em>. He offers tacos every Tuesday at \u003ca href=\"https://missionbarsa.com/\">Mission Bar in Santa Ana\u003c/a>; on a recent evening, the line was nearly out the door. Working with pre-cooked ingredients and a hot plate to heat tortillas, Medina cranked out tacos almost as fast as he got orders.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Limes, bro, you forgot the limes!\" he cracked at an Asian-American customer who had quickly run off with chorizo tacos made from granulated beets. \"It's the worst, nastiest, saltiest, oiliest meat you can find,\" Medina said of the traditional pork sausage. \"Why \u003cem>not\u003c/em> make it vegan? Why are we just giving up that [vegan] market to rich people? We need to take back our ingredients and meals, and make it available to people of color.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are no hard numbers on how many Mexican-Americans are vegan, but this way of eating isn't so far off from what their ancestors ate in pre-Columbian times. Before the Conquest, most of Mexico's indigenous natives followed a plant-based diet. Beef, pork, chicken, lamb and goat — the mainstay meats of modern-day Mexican food — all came with the Spaniards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many of our dishes are vegan by nature,\" says Loreta Ruiz, who \u003ca href=\"https://www.laveganamexicana.com/\">runs La Vegana Mexicana\u003c/a> with her two college-age children, Loreta and Luis Sierra. \"But just the word 'vegan' scares [Mexican] people. It's like, 'Our food is so rich and so beautiful, why are you going to alter it?'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Vegana specializes in tamales, using a lard-free masa (cornmeal) that Ruiz said took two years to perfect so that her tamales are properly fluffy and moist. She and her children do stage pop-up food tents at community festivals, but their focus is on trying to break into restaurants and supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruiz grew up in Mexico City with a father who was vegan \"before it was a thing.\" But she didn't give veganism a try until her daughter, Loreta, was 8. \"Even at that age,\" Ruiz said, \"she was questioning about why we needed to drink milk, or why we needed to kill animals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family tried to go vegan to support the young Loreta but found that a lot of the vegan food at the time was processed \"and didn't even taste good.\" So Ruiz experimented in her kitchen until friends suggested she sell food to the public. Her job with the Mexican consulate kept her busy, but she finally decided to debut La Vegana last year at a Dia de los Muertos event. The family sold tamales so fast that they couldn't thaw them out quick enough. But customers didn't seem to care – drawn perhaps by the novelty at first, they stayed around for the flavor, Ruiz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I was amazed at how many people wanted to try our tamales,\" Ruiz said. \"One guy came back seven times through the night, because he wanted to try them all!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ruiz's daughter, Loreta Sierra, isn't surprised that Latinos of her generation seem more open to going vegan. (A young Salvadoran chef in Los Angeles \u003ca href=\"http://www.lataco.com/meet-the-l-a-chef-who-has-veganized-40-dishes-from-el-salvador-and-is-going-for-more/\">veganized over 40 of her country's meals\u003c/a>). \"Our generation overall is more concerned about environmentalism and environmental racism — the future of our planet,\" says the 22-year-old, who is currently an undergraduate at the University of California, Los Angeles. \"If we want to have a habitable planet, we need to start being more proactive in what we consume.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her brother, Luis Sierra, still encounters heavy skepticism from other Mexican-Americans about his Vegan-Mex lifestyle, but he takes it in stride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Guys on my crew, they make fun of me all the time,\" says the 19-year-old, who volunteers for the Los Angeles Fire Department. \"'Oh, yeah, that's why you're so skinny!' But then I give them one of my mom's tamales, and they change their mind right away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Gustavo Arellano is the author of \u003c/em>Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America\u003cem>, and a longtime guest on NPR's \"Barbershop\" segment on \u003c/em>Weekend All Things Considered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Young Chefs In El Salvador Are Breathing New Life Into Traditional Cuisine",
"title": "Young Chefs In El Salvador Are Breathing New Life Into Traditional Cuisine",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Cristina Reyes Clark winds her way through the bustling market in El Salvador's capital city, San Salvador, stopping to touch and smell fruits and vegetables along the way. Young, tattooed and dressed in shorts, she stands out in the traditional farmers market full of conservative \u003cem>abuelas\u003c/em> (grandmothers) with their heaping baskets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there is at least one thing these women have in common: their love of ancestral food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reyes Clark, the owner of \u003cem>Yemaya\u003c/em> (meaning food from the earth), a catering and pop-up business, is part of an emerging movement in El Salvador, composed of young chefs who are integrating traditional foods into contemporary cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We used to go to McDonald's and Pizza Hut a lot when we were kids. We thought it was cool, man,\" she quips. \"It was from the States, so you know, anything from the U.S. was considered better than here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But attitudes about American fast food are changing. Salvadorans are becoming more curious about ancestral vegetables and herbs, and shows like \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> and \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> are enticing them to try innovative ways of returning to their culinary roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reyes Clark picks up a piece of \u003cem>paterna\u003c/em>, a large and vibrant seedy green pod that grows all over the country. \"I'm going to make hummus out of the seeds,\" she says. \"The first time I made it for my friends, they thought I was crazy, but then when they tasted it, they were surprised by how good it was.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Paterna\u003c/em>, along with leafy green nutritional powerhouses — \u003cem>mora\u003c/em>, \u003cem>chipilin\u003c/em> and \u003cem>chaya\u003c/em> — grow easily in the wild, but over the years they have been replaced with processed foods. You are not going to find \u003cem>paterna\u003c/em> in the supermarket, Reyes Clark says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is because most of El Salvador's food culture was wiped out, says Luis May, a doctor who focuses on locally sourced food as medicine. He has a garden behind his office where he grows many indigenous plants and teaches his clients about their nutritional value. \"We used to be a culture of corn, now we are a culture of wheat,\" he says. \"During the conquest nearly 500 years ago, the Spanish abolished many ancestral foods because they were considered sacred.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The civil war that devastated the country in the 1980s only made things worse. \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/in/hollymjones\">Holly Jones,\u003c/a> who has extensively researched traditional food in El Salvador, describes the internal conflict as the perfect storm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bocabocateam-b960e263c8b766e3bad6b7dd1d296356e957d542-e1530247665263.jpg\" alt='Chefs Mario Portillo and Fatima Mirandal of Boca Boca restaurant. \"The flavor is new and exciting for our generation, and brings back a flood of good memories for the older people,\" Mirandal says.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129177\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Mario Portillo and Fatima Mirandal of Boca Boca restaurant. \"The flavor is new and exciting for our generation, and brings back a flood of good memories for the older people,\" Mirandal says. \u003ccite>(Jaime Jacques)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Just when the war was happening, supermarket culture took off,\" she says. \"Wealthy Salvadorans were too scared to be out in the open air markets because it was dangerous, so they started buying imported, processed foods at supermarkets. At the same time, \u003cem>campesinos\u003c/em> [farmers] came to the city to work and saw that their employers were eating packaged foods. Going into the forest to get food became stigmatized as something poor people did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fatima Mirandal, 25, considers herself lucky to have grown up in and around the market. \"My grandmother worked there, and her mother and all of the women before them,\" she says. \"I would always be at their feet touching and smelling the vegetables and herbs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mirandal and her partner, Mario Portillo, are the chefs at the ultra-hip, newly opened restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://restaurantebocaboca.com\">Boca Boca\u003c/a>, hidden in a tree-lined residential area of San Salvador, where they focus on what they call food nostalgia. \"We take old ingredients from the [farming areas] and combine them in new ways. The flavor is new and exciting for our generation, and brings back a flood of good memories for the older people,\" Mirandal says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mirandal's 68-year-old grandmother, Elva Duran, is thrilled to see these foods making a comeback. \"When I was young, we didn't have any of these fast-food chains that have no health value whatsoever,\" she says. \"I think it's incredible that this generation is taking steps to keep our roots alive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gracia María Navarro and Alexander Herrera are developing eye-catching, minimalist dishes as part of their pop-up project, \u003ca href=\"http://www.raizrestaurant.com\">Raiz\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>(root), which creates a fine-dining experience inspired by tales of food from Herrera's grandmother and great-grandmother.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I didn't know anything about indigenous foods here when I was younger, but started to get interested when I was in culinary school,\" says Herrera. \"One day I asked my great-grandmother about something I saw in the market, and then all of a sudden every time I went over to visit, they were telling me more and more about things they used to eat, and what combinations they used to eat them in. So, I started putting the combinations together — but presenting them in an entirely different way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Herrera jokes that the \"goal is to show that El Salvador is more than just \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em> and \u003cem>pandillas\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reyes Clark agrees. El Salvador has so much more in the ways of culinary possibility than just \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em>, she says. \"We have these amazing \u003cem>tenquique\u003c/em> mushrooms that grow here in the summer, and traditionally our grandmothers would use them in eggs or \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em>, but I like to go gather them along with a whole bunch of other herbs from the mountains and make what I call wild paella.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change in attitude is definitely happening, albeit slowly, says May, who is still concerned about the amounts of sodium and sugar his patients consume from processed foods. \"Most working-class Salvadorans still hit places like Pizza Hut or McDonald's when it's pay day,\" he says. \"But the good news is that we tend to absorb trends from the U.S. pretty quickly, so the whole local movement is starting to take off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jaime Jacques is a freelance writer currently based in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. Her work has appeared in \u003c/em>Salon\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Roads and Kingdoms\u003cem> and \u003c/em>Narratively\u003cem>, among others. She is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Moon-El-Salvador-Handbooks-ebook/dp/B00FD3TQI6\">Moon El Salvador\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Cristina Reyes Clark winds her way through the bustling market in El Salvador's capital city, San Salvador, stopping to touch and smell fruits and vegetables along the way. Young, tattooed and dressed in shorts, she stands out in the traditional farmers market full of conservative \u003cem>abuelas\u003c/em> (grandmothers) with their heaping baskets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there is at least one thing these women have in common: their love of ancestral food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reyes Clark, the owner of \u003cem>Yemaya\u003c/em> (meaning food from the earth), a catering and pop-up business, is part of an emerging movement in El Salvador, composed of young chefs who are integrating traditional foods into contemporary cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We used to go to McDonald's and Pizza Hut a lot when we were kids. We thought it was cool, man,\" she quips. \"It was from the States, so you know, anything from the U.S. was considered better than here.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But attitudes about American fast food are changing. Salvadorans are becoming more curious about ancestral vegetables and herbs, and shows like \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> and \u003cem>No Reservations\u003c/em> are enticing them to try innovative ways of returning to their culinary roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reyes Clark picks up a piece of \u003cem>paterna\u003c/em>, a large and vibrant seedy green pod that grows all over the country. \"I'm going to make hummus out of the seeds,\" she says. \"The first time I made it for my friends, they thought I was crazy, but then when they tasted it, they were surprised by how good it was.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Paterna\u003c/em>, along with leafy green nutritional powerhouses — \u003cem>mora\u003c/em>, \u003cem>chipilin\u003c/em> and \u003cem>chaya\u003c/em> — grow easily in the wild, but over the years they have been replaced with processed foods. You are not going to find \u003cem>paterna\u003c/em> in the supermarket, Reyes Clark says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is because most of El Salvador's food culture was wiped out, says Luis May, a doctor who focuses on locally sourced food as medicine. He has a garden behind his office where he grows many indigenous plants and teaches his clients about their nutritional value. \"We used to be a culture of corn, now we are a culture of wheat,\" he says. \"During the conquest nearly 500 years ago, the Spanish abolished many ancestral foods because they were considered sacred.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The civil war that devastated the country in the 1980s only made things worse. \u003ca href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/in/hollymjones\">Holly Jones,\u003c/a> who has extensively researched traditional food in El Salvador, describes the internal conflict as the perfect storm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/bocabocateam-b960e263c8b766e3bad6b7dd1d296356e957d542-e1530247665263.jpg\" alt='Chefs Mario Portillo and Fatima Mirandal of Boca Boca restaurant. \"The flavor is new and exciting for our generation, and brings back a flood of good memories for the older people,\" Mirandal says.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129177\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chefs Mario Portillo and Fatima Mirandal of Boca Boca restaurant. \"The flavor is new and exciting for our generation, and brings back a flood of good memories for the older people,\" Mirandal says. \u003ccite>(Jaime Jacques)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Just when the war was happening, supermarket culture took off,\" she says. \"Wealthy Salvadorans were too scared to be out in the open air markets because it was dangerous, so they started buying imported, processed foods at supermarkets. At the same time, \u003cem>campesinos\u003c/em> [farmers] came to the city to work and saw that their employers were eating packaged foods. Going into the forest to get food became stigmatized as something poor people did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fatima Mirandal, 25, considers herself lucky to have grown up in and around the market. \"My grandmother worked there, and her mother and all of the women before them,\" she says. \"I would always be at their feet touching and smelling the vegetables and herbs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mirandal and her partner, Mario Portillo, are the chefs at the ultra-hip, newly opened restaurant \u003ca href=\"https://restaurantebocaboca.com\">Boca Boca\u003c/a>, hidden in a tree-lined residential area of San Salvador, where they focus on what they call food nostalgia. \"We take old ingredients from the [farming areas] and combine them in new ways. The flavor is new and exciting for our generation, and brings back a flood of good memories for the older people,\" Mirandal says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mirandal's 68-year-old grandmother, Elva Duran, is thrilled to see these foods making a comeback. \"When I was young, we didn't have any of these fast-food chains that have no health value whatsoever,\" she says. \"I think it's incredible that this generation is taking steps to keep our roots alive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gracia María Navarro and Alexander Herrera are developing eye-catching, minimalist dishes as part of their pop-up project, \u003ca href=\"http://www.raizrestaurant.com\">Raiz\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>(root), which creates a fine-dining experience inspired by tales of food from Herrera's grandmother and great-grandmother.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I didn't know anything about indigenous foods here when I was younger, but started to get interested when I was in culinary school,\" says Herrera. \"One day I asked my great-grandmother about something I saw in the market, and then all of a sudden every time I went over to visit, they were telling me more and more about things they used to eat, and what combinations they used to eat them in. So, I started putting the combinations together — but presenting them in an entirely different way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Herrera jokes that the \"goal is to show that El Salvador is more than just \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em> and \u003cem>pandillas\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reyes Clark agrees. El Salvador has so much more in the ways of culinary possibility than just \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em>, she says. \"We have these amazing \u003cem>tenquique\u003c/em> mushrooms that grow here in the summer, and traditionally our grandmothers would use them in eggs or \u003cem>pupusas\u003c/em>, but I like to go gather them along with a whole bunch of other herbs from the mountains and make what I call wild paella.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change in attitude is definitely happening, albeit slowly, says May, who is still concerned about the amounts of sodium and sugar his patients consume from processed foods. \"Most working-class Salvadorans still hit places like Pizza Hut or McDonald's when it's pay day,\" he says. \"But the good news is that we tend to absorb trends from the U.S. pretty quickly, so the whole local movement is starting to take off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Jaime Jacques is a freelance writer currently based in Quetzaltenango, Guatemala. Her work has appeared in \u003c/em>Salon\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Roads and Kingdoms\u003cem> and \u003c/em>Narratively\u003cem>, among others. She is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Moon-El-Salvador-Handbooks-ebook/dp/B00FD3TQI6\">Moon El Salvador\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "For A True Taste Of South India, Try A Toddy Shop",
"title": "For A True Taste Of South India, Try A Toddy Shop",
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"content": "\u003cp>In Kerala, a tropical slice of a state that runs along India's southwestern coast, people use every part of the coconut tree. The bark is used as firewood. The leaves and husks become mats and rope. The fruit, of course, features heavily in curries, chutneys and stews. The sweet sap can be used to make palm sugar. Or, left to ferment, it can be transformed into a special, mildly alcoholic brew called toddy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early each morning — almost exactly as they have been doing for hundreds of years — nearly 30,000 toddy tappers across the state risk their lives to clamber up coconut trees. Sometimes they walk from treetop to treetop on crude tightropes in search of budding flower stalks. They slice these stalks open and use terracotta pots to catch the milky liquid that oozes out, which almost immediately begins to ferment, thanks to natural yeasts in the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day, the tappers load up their caravans, vans and trucks and rush their pots full of sap to thousands of toddy shops or \u003cem>shaaps\u003c/em>, the Keralan equivalent of countryside taverns, where day laborers and government employees, local families and tourists gather to experience what a Keralan friend describes as \"the true, original taste of Kerala.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/dsc_0132-4a28d2915faa77c31196146abe07eff5126bc9a8-2-e1528848059554.jpg\" alt=\"Radha CK has been working at Mullapanthal, one of the best-known toddy shops in Kerala, for three decades.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128982\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radha CK has been working at Mullapanthal, one of the best-known toddy shops in Kerala, for three decades. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My favorite is Chungam, an unassuming, whitewashed concrete cube, tucked into a narrow, winding road along the backwaters. Enter, and you'll find a small room at the front, with a handful of plastic seats, mainly occupied by men who've come on their own. Larger groups are led back into a living room, where yellow-green geckos dart in and out from behind framed family photos on the walls and where you can choose to leave the TV on or off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no menu. Kaumari, who has been running Chungam out of her family home for nearly five decades, cooks up whatever's fresh and in season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a visit in mid-April, at the very beginning of mango season, that meant three kinds of pickle made from tender, tangy baby mangoes. Plus a salad of sardines tossed with red chiles, turmeric, lime and freshly grated coconut flesh; peppery roasted prawns and a fiery red fish curry. The spices scorch, so you're compelled to buy more and more of the slightly sweet, slightly tart toddy to douse the heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/dsc_0174-9fcdab6e96cf928173a527baf7fa92025f1d4352-2-e1528847976453.jpg\" alt=\"At Mullapanthal, fresh karimeen from the backwaters is marinated and fried to order.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128983\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Mullapanthal, fresh karimeen from the backwaters is marinated and fried to order. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone asks me why I have been doing this for so many years,\" says Kaumari, who runs the kitchen, while her husband, son and daughter-in-law serve customers. \"Mostly it's for the compliments,\" she says with a chuckle. The compliments are addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her patrons, many of them 9-to-5ers who take extra-long lunch breaks and drive half an hour out of the nearest city for her food, pay her enough praise to ensure she won't retire anytime soon, but not too loudly, or publicly and definitely not via Google or Yelp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even without a social media presence, it's hard to score a table at lunchtime, especially since toddy shops are having a bit of a revival lately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128984\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/mb2a3956-0d32f806ad9f1de3bf4d9a1537c8b5013813855e-2-e1528847931381.jpg\" alt=\"There's no menu at Chungam. Owner and head chef Kaumari cooks up whatever is fresh and in season.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128984\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There's no menu at Chungam. Owner and head chef Kaumari cooks up whatever is fresh and in season. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although toddy is in the name, the most popular \u003cem>shaaps\u003c/em> are famous for their food. \"Ten, 15 years ago, most toddy shops would not be known to anyone outside of rural Kerala,\" says Keralan chef Aji Joseph, who has worked in high-end restaurants across India during his 20-year career, but still gets nostalgic for his hometown \u003cem>shaaps.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He credits the Internet and Instagram with popularizing these spots beyond rural Kerala. \"So not just in urban Kerala, but also people in Delhi or New York are seeing how good this food looks ... and they want to try it for themselves.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they should, Joseph says. \"The cuisine is completely unique.\" \u003cem>Shaap\u003c/em> specialties include \u003cem>karimeen pollichathu\u003c/em> — spiced freshwater fish that's wrapped inside plantain leaves, and fried in coconut oil — served with a side of \u003cem>kappa\u003c/em>, steamed tapioca. There's duck \u003cem>mappas\u003c/em>, shredded duck meat slow-cooked in a spiced coconut sauce; \u003cem>kakka\u003c/em> or freshwater clams, roasted with spice and coconut shavings; and \u003cem>meen thala\u003c/em> curry, made with fish heads and coconut milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coconut features in absolutely every dish. Kerala, in the region's Malayalam language, literally means \"land of coconuts,\" and toddy shops are very much an ode to that land, as well as the waterways that permeate and surround it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything is made from local ingredients found within a few kilometers of the shop,\" Joseph says. \"And whatever they cook in the morning, that's it. They sell that until it's finished. They don't have a fridge or freezer, they don't keep anything for the next day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128985\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/mb2a3918-bf52410e3748774c632ac22078556483119bedd0-1-e1528848107629.jpg\" alt=\"Kaumari has been running Chungam Toddy Shop out of her family home for nearly five decades.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128985\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kaumari has been running Chungam Toddy Shop out of her family home for nearly five decades. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The toddy that accompanies all of that is equally ephemeral. Coconut sap ferments fast — within a few hours of collection, it transforms from a sugary syrup into an effervescent alcoholic drink. Within 24 hours, it further ferments into a vinegar that can be used to make pickles — but is pretty unpleasant to drink. It's brief lifespan means that it's never bottled, or exported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a specialty of rural villages — not just in south India, but also Sri Lanka, and southeast Asia, where people have been tapping and drinking toddy for centuries, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.cds.edu/people/dr-j-devika/qualification.html\">J. Devika\u003c/a>, a historian at the Centre for Development Studies in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the younger generations in agricultural communities across India are increasingly seeking higher-paid work in cities, there doesn't seem to be any perceptible shortage of toddy tappers, suppliers, or drinkers in Kerala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there's not much written down about toddy history. Devika says, \"simply because toddy has been so much a part of everyday life for so long, no one has really thought to study it.\" Devika says there has long been a stigma against women drinking alcohol in many parts of Keralan society, but up until the 1940s, Devika says, both men and women used to frequent toddy shops after work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At its peak, toddy is about as alcoholic as beer — containing between 3 and 6 percent alcohol. It's not the most effective way to get drunk. But in the 1940s came a trend of spiking or fortifying toddy, or distilling it into a rum-like spirit. Toddy shops became associated with violent, drunk men, Devika says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2015, Kerala's government put severe \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-35192246\">restrictions\u003c/a> on the sale of alcohol in an effort to combat alcoholism, most of which were \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-40213562\">reversed\u003c/a> in 2017.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the majority of toddy shops were unaffected by those restrictions, which made an exception for the indigenous drink, though tappers and \u003cem>shaap\u003c/em> owners are still petitioning a new government rule that prevents them from selling toddy near highways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128986\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/mb2a3998-b6058ea1632f13e1bff9ba76329477ba89599b0d-1-e1528848172266.jpg\" alt=\"On offer at Chungam: A salad of sardines tossed with red chiles, turmeric, lime and freshly grated coconut flesh.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128986\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On offer at Chungam: A salad of sardines tossed with red chiles, turmeric, lime and freshly grated coconut flesh. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One result of the recent focus on alcoholism is that the state government has been monitoring toddy tapping and sales more stringently over the past three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That, perhaps, has helped wipe clean toddy shops' seedy reputation, says Chef Joseph.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or perhaps, more people are just catching onto the fact that \u003cem>shaaps\u003c/em> serve some of the best food in Kerala, says Vijayakumar, whose family has been running Mullapanthal, one of the best-known toddy shops in Kerala, for three generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People come mainly for the food,\" he says. All which is cooked on traditional stoves — fueled, of course, by coconut wood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Toddy is a type of palm wine made from the fermented sap of coconut flowers. But the best toddy shops in southwestern India are celebrated for the spicy, coconutty food they serve with the drink.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In Kerala, a tropical slice of a state that runs along India's southwestern coast, people use every part of the coconut tree. The bark is used as firewood. The leaves and husks become mats and rope. The fruit, of course, features heavily in curries, chutneys and stews. The sweet sap can be used to make palm sugar. Or, left to ferment, it can be transformed into a special, mildly alcoholic brew called toddy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early each morning — almost exactly as they have been doing for hundreds of years — nearly 30,000 toddy tappers across the state risk their lives to clamber up coconut trees. Sometimes they walk from treetop to treetop on crude tightropes in search of budding flower stalks. They slice these stalks open and use terracotta pots to catch the milky liquid that oozes out, which almost immediately begins to ferment, thanks to natural yeasts in the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every day, the tappers load up their caravans, vans and trucks and rush their pots full of sap to thousands of toddy shops or \u003cem>shaaps\u003c/em>, the Keralan equivalent of countryside taverns, where day laborers and government employees, local families and tourists gather to experience what a Keralan friend describes as \"the true, original taste of Kerala.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128982\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/dsc_0132-4a28d2915faa77c31196146abe07eff5126bc9a8-2-e1528848059554.jpg\" alt=\"Radha CK has been working at Mullapanthal, one of the best-known toddy shops in Kerala, for three decades.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128982\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Radha CK has been working at Mullapanthal, one of the best-known toddy shops in Kerala, for three decades. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>My favorite is Chungam, an unassuming, whitewashed concrete cube, tucked into a narrow, winding road along the backwaters. Enter, and you'll find a small room at the front, with a handful of plastic seats, mainly occupied by men who've come on their own. Larger groups are led back into a living room, where yellow-green geckos dart in and out from behind framed family photos on the walls and where you can choose to leave the TV on or off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no menu. Kaumari, who has been running Chungam out of her family home for nearly five decades, cooks up whatever's fresh and in season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a visit in mid-April, at the very beginning of mango season, that meant three kinds of pickle made from tender, tangy baby mangoes. Plus a salad of sardines tossed with red chiles, turmeric, lime and freshly grated coconut flesh; peppery roasted prawns and a fiery red fish curry. The spices scorch, so you're compelled to buy more and more of the slightly sweet, slightly tart toddy to douse the heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128983\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/dsc_0174-9fcdab6e96cf928173a527baf7fa92025f1d4352-2-e1528847976453.jpg\" alt=\"At Mullapanthal, fresh karimeen from the backwaters is marinated and fried to order.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128983\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Mullapanthal, fresh karimeen from the backwaters is marinated and fried to order. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Everyone asks me why I have been doing this for so many years,\" says Kaumari, who runs the kitchen, while her husband, son and daughter-in-law serve customers. \"Mostly it's for the compliments,\" she says with a chuckle. The compliments are addictive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her patrons, many of them 9-to-5ers who take extra-long lunch breaks and drive half an hour out of the nearest city for her food, pay her enough praise to ensure she won't retire anytime soon, but not too loudly, or publicly and definitely not via Google or Yelp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even without a social media presence, it's hard to score a table at lunchtime, especially since toddy shops are having a bit of a revival lately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128984\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/mb2a3956-0d32f806ad9f1de3bf4d9a1537c8b5013813855e-2-e1528847931381.jpg\" alt=\"There's no menu at Chungam. Owner and head chef Kaumari cooks up whatever is fresh and in season.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128984\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There's no menu at Chungam. Owner and head chef Kaumari cooks up whatever is fresh and in season. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although toddy is in the name, the most popular \u003cem>shaaps\u003c/em> are famous for their food. \"Ten, 15 years ago, most toddy shops would not be known to anyone outside of rural Kerala,\" says Keralan chef Aji Joseph, who has worked in high-end restaurants across India during his 20-year career, but still gets nostalgic for his hometown \u003cem>shaaps.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He credits the Internet and Instagram with popularizing these spots beyond rural Kerala. \"So not just in urban Kerala, but also people in Delhi or New York are seeing how good this food looks ... and they want to try it for themselves.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they should, Joseph says. \"The cuisine is completely unique.\" \u003cem>Shaap\u003c/em> specialties include \u003cem>karimeen pollichathu\u003c/em> — spiced freshwater fish that's wrapped inside plantain leaves, and fried in coconut oil — served with a side of \u003cem>kappa\u003c/em>, steamed tapioca. There's duck \u003cem>mappas\u003c/em>, shredded duck meat slow-cooked in a spiced coconut sauce; \u003cem>kakka\u003c/em> or freshwater clams, roasted with spice and coconut shavings; and \u003cem>meen thala\u003c/em> curry, made with fish heads and coconut milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coconut features in absolutely every dish. Kerala, in the region's Malayalam language, literally means \"land of coconuts,\" and toddy shops are very much an ode to that land, as well as the waterways that permeate and surround it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Everything is made from local ingredients found within a few kilometers of the shop,\" Joseph says. \"And whatever they cook in the morning, that's it. They sell that until it's finished. They don't have a fridge or freezer, they don't keep anything for the next day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128985\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/mb2a3918-bf52410e3748774c632ac22078556483119bedd0-1-e1528848107629.jpg\" alt=\"Kaumari has been running Chungam Toddy Shop out of her family home for nearly five decades.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128985\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kaumari has been running Chungam Toddy Shop out of her family home for nearly five decades. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The toddy that accompanies all of that is equally ephemeral. Coconut sap ferments fast — within a few hours of collection, it transforms from a sugary syrup into an effervescent alcoholic drink. Within 24 hours, it further ferments into a vinegar that can be used to make pickles — but is pretty unpleasant to drink. It's brief lifespan means that it's never bottled, or exported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a specialty of rural villages — not just in south India, but also Sri Lanka, and southeast Asia, where people have been tapping and drinking toddy for centuries, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.cds.edu/people/dr-j-devika/qualification.html\">J. Devika\u003c/a>, a historian at the Centre for Development Studies in Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the younger generations in agricultural communities across India are increasingly seeking higher-paid work in cities, there doesn't seem to be any perceptible shortage of toddy tappers, suppliers, or drinkers in Kerala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, there's not much written down about toddy history. Devika says, \"simply because toddy has been so much a part of everyday life for so long, no one has really thought to study it.\" Devika says there has long been a stigma against women drinking alcohol in many parts of Keralan society, but up until the 1940s, Devika says, both men and women used to frequent toddy shops after work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At its peak, toddy is about as alcoholic as beer — containing between 3 and 6 percent alcohol. It's not the most effective way to get drunk. But in the 1940s came a trend of spiking or fortifying toddy, or distilling it into a rum-like spirit. Toddy shops became associated with violent, drunk men, Devika says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2015, Kerala's government put severe \u003ca href=\"http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-35192246\">restrictions\u003c/a> on the sale of alcohol in an effort to combat alcoholism, most of which were \u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-40213562\">reversed\u003c/a> in 2017.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the majority of toddy shops were unaffected by those restrictions, which made an exception for the indigenous drink, though tappers and \u003cem>shaap\u003c/em> owners are still petitioning a new government rule that prevents them from selling toddy near highways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128986\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/mb2a3998-b6058ea1632f13e1bff9ba76329477ba89599b0d-1-e1528848172266.jpg\" alt=\"On offer at Chungam: A salad of sardines tossed with red chiles, turmeric, lime and freshly grated coconut flesh.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128986\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">On offer at Chungam: A salad of sardines tossed with red chiles, turmeric, lime and freshly grated coconut flesh. \u003ccite>(Maanvi Singh/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One result of the recent focus on alcoholism is that the state government has been monitoring toddy tapping and sales more stringently over the past three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That, perhaps, has helped wipe clean toddy shops' seedy reputation, says Chef Joseph.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or perhaps, more people are just catching onto the fact that \u003cem>shaaps\u003c/em> serve some of the best food in Kerala, says Vijayakumar, whose family has been running Mullapanthal, one of the best-known toddy shops in Kerala, for three generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People come mainly for the food,\" he says. All which is cooked on traditional stoves — fueled, of course, by coconut wood. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Anthony Bourdain: Serving Up Inclusion",
"title": "Anthony Bourdain: Serving Up Inclusion",
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"content": "\u003cp>Anthony Bourdain is being mourned, of course, by fellow chefs and foodies for his sardonic exposés about what \u003cem>really \u003c/em>happens in the kitchens of some of America's best restaurants. And for his travels to explore the world's cuisines. But communities of color, women, people who are gender-different from the perceived norm — those people sent heartbroken tributes, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef, food and travel writer and humanitarian was found dead on Friday while with a production crew on a shoot in France for one of his food travelogues. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/06/08/618185381/anthony-bourdain-chef-and-television-host-has-died-at-61\">cause of death was suicide\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you're from a marginalized, dehumanized community, you know what Anthony Bourdain meant,\" tweeted Mohammad Alsaafin. \"To Palestinians, Iranians, Libyans, undocumented immigrants in the US, abused women...what a loss.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What a loss indeed. Food historian \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/outlook/tracing-his-urge-to-cook-through-slavery-and-the-south/2017/08/18/1aeaa6de-6e19-11e7-96ab-5f38140b38cc_story.html?utm_term=.11080b413b31\">Michael W. Twitty\u003c/a> won a coveted James Beard award earlier this spring for \u003cem>The Cooking Gene\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South.\u003c/em> He wrote on Twitter, \"For a Black man that has walked the plank for being highly critical of the food world so white, #Anthony Bourdain was special. He called Africa the cradle of civilization, took his cameras to Haiti, honored t he hood with Snoop, broke bread with Obama like a human being...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/hLkC0jNWE5Y\">Obama and Bourdain met when both were traveling in Southeast Asia to share bowls of \u003cem>bun cha\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a North Vietnamese specialty of spicy pork patties with noodles in a garlicky broth. The people in the restaurant—once they got over their shock at seeing the leader of the free world happily slurping noodles at a nearby table — clearly loved that Obama was eating and enjoying their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is killer,\" Obama told Bourdain, as he dove in for more. Food writer Andrea Nguyen, whose \u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/expert-advice/vietnamese-cooking-expert-andrea-nguyen-the-pho-cookbook-recipe-article\">cookbook on the Vietnamese national soup, Pho\u003c/a>, also earned a James Beard award this year, tweeted after that memorable dinner, that the table at which the president and Bourdain dined \"\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ObamaHitsBack/status/1005049996520157184\">was encased like a museum piece at the restaurant\u003c/a>.\" Bourdain, she said \"did much for overlooked causes and cuisines, including that of Vietnam. RIP anh [brother] Tony.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Humanizing Muslims and Arabs ...\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain saw food as not just sustenance — although sustenance was important — but as a way to convey a message of acceptance, respect, comfort. \u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em> got an award from MPAC (the Muslim Public Affairs Council) for its episode on Israel and Palestine. In his \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53pRNV8wAws\">acceptance speech\u003c/a>, made by video, Bourdain said, \"The world has visited many terrible things on the Palestinian people, none more shameful than robbing them of their basic humanity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain's death revealed another talent most of us knew nothing about. Laila El-Haddad, his co-author of \u003cem>The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey\u003c/em>, posted a photo on Twitter of Bourdain with her and her tiny daughter. \"He was a master baby whisperer, and a master storyteller, having rocked my 7 month old to sleep in the middle of shooting our episode.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Let's not forget that Anthony Bourdain was one of the few prominent media personalities who regularly humanized Muslims and Arabs as regular, everyday people-without politicizing their lives or stories,\" tweeted Khaled Beydoun, a law professor at the University of Detroit Mercy, and author of \u003cem>American\u003c/em> \u003cem>Islamophobia\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for Africa, Bourdain declared the continent, \"one of the best arguments for travel I can think of,\" and lauded its ability to exist as a \"functioning multicultural, multilingual, extraordinarily TOLERANT society ... It's someplace that everyone, given the chance, should go.\" (\u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/bourdain-parts-unknown-senegal/index.html\">In that episode, he sits down with our own Ofeibea Quist-Arcton\u003c/a> to share a snack in one of the city's bustling street markets.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Supporting Women and Immigrants\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Closer to home, Bourdain was an early supporter of #MeToo, noting he'd met several women who'd told him awful stories of abuse. In an interview with \u003cem>The Cut\u003c/em>, Bourdain confessed he'd partially awakened to how widespread the issue of male predation was \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/gossip/anthony-bourdain-cooks-asia-argento-rose-mcgowan-article-1.3656784\">when his girlfriend, Asia Argento, confided she was one of disgraced film maker Harvey Weinstein's accusers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I stand unhesitatingly and unwaveringly with the women,\" he wrote on \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/@Bourdain/on-reacting-to-bad-news-28bc2c4b9adc\">in a 2017 essay on Medium\u003c/a>. And he meant not just in the film industry: \"Right now, nothing else matters but women's stories of what it's like in the industry I have loved and celebrated for nearly 30 years...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also clapped back at the country's growing anti-immigrant, especially anti-Mexican, sentiment. \u003ca href=\"http://anthonybourdain.tumblr.com/post/84641290831/under-the-volcano\">On his blog in 2014\u003c/a>, Bourdain noted that, \"Americans love Mexican food ... Despite our ridiculously hypocritical attitudes towards immigration, we demand that Mexicans cook a large percentage of the food we eat, grow the ingredients we need to make that food, clean our houses, mow our lawns, wash our dishes, look after our children. As any chef will tell you, our entire service economy—the restaurant business as we know it—in most American cities, would collapse overnight without Mexican workers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's noticing things like that — and being unafraid to voice those observations in his books, blogs and on his television shows, that made Anthony Bourdain beloved, even revered, by the many communities of marginalized people that he visited, touched and supported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Anthony Bourdain is being mourned, of course, by fellow chefs and foodies for his sardonic exposés about what \u003cem>really \u003c/em>happens in the kitchens of some of America's best restaurants. And for his travels to explore the world's cuisines. But communities of color, women, people who are gender-different from the perceived norm — those people sent heartbroken tributes, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The chef, food and travel writer and humanitarian was found dead on Friday while with a production crew on a shoot in France for one of his food travelogues. The \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/06/08/618185381/anthony-bourdain-chef-and-television-host-has-died-at-61\">cause of death was suicide\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you're from a marginalized, dehumanized community, you know what Anthony Bourdain meant,\" tweeted Mohammad Alsaafin. \"To Palestinians, Iranians, Libyans, undocumented immigrants in the US, abused women...what a loss.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What a loss indeed. Food historian \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/outlook/tracing-his-urge-to-cook-through-slavery-and-the-south/2017/08/18/1aeaa6de-6e19-11e7-96ab-5f38140b38cc_story.html?utm_term=.11080b413b31\">Michael W. Twitty\u003c/a> won a coveted James Beard award earlier this spring for \u003cem>The Cooking Gene\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South.\u003c/em> He wrote on Twitter, \"For a Black man that has walked the plank for being highly critical of the food world so white, #Anthony Bourdain was special. He called Africa the cradle of civilization, took his cameras to Haiti, honored t he hood with Snoop, broke bread with Obama like a human being...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/hLkC0jNWE5Y\">Obama and Bourdain met when both were traveling in Southeast Asia to share bowls of \u003cem>bun cha\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, a North Vietnamese specialty of spicy pork patties with noodles in a garlicky broth. The people in the restaurant—once they got over their shock at seeing the leader of the free world happily slurping noodles at a nearby table — clearly loved that Obama was eating and enjoying their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is killer,\" Obama told Bourdain, as he dove in for more. Food writer Andrea Nguyen, whose \u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/expert-advice/vietnamese-cooking-expert-andrea-nguyen-the-pho-cookbook-recipe-article\">cookbook on the Vietnamese national soup, Pho\u003c/a>, also earned a James Beard award this year, tweeted after that memorable dinner, that the table at which the president and Bourdain dined \"\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ObamaHitsBack/status/1005049996520157184\">was encased like a museum piece at the restaurant\u003c/a>.\" Bourdain, she said \"did much for overlooked causes and cuisines, including that of Vietnam. RIP anh [brother] Tony.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Humanizing Muslims and Arabs ...\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain saw food as not just sustenance — although sustenance was important — but as a way to convey a message of acceptance, respect, comfort. \u003cem>Parts Unknown\u003c/em> got an award from MPAC (the Muslim Public Affairs Council) for its episode on Israel and Palestine. In his \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53pRNV8wAws\">acceptance speech\u003c/a>, made by video, Bourdain said, \"The world has visited many terrible things on the Palestinian people, none more shameful than robbing them of their basic humanity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain's death revealed another talent most of us knew nothing about. Laila El-Haddad, his co-author of \u003cem>The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey\u003c/em>, posted a photo on Twitter of Bourdain with her and her tiny daughter. \"He was a master baby whisperer, and a master storyteller, having rocked my 7 month old to sleep in the middle of shooting our episode.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Let's not forget that Anthony Bourdain was one of the few prominent media personalities who regularly humanized Muslims and Arabs as regular, everyday people-without politicizing their lives or stories,\" tweeted Khaled Beydoun, a law professor at the University of Detroit Mercy, and author of \u003cem>American\u003c/em> \u003cem>Islamophobia\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for Africa, Bourdain declared the continent, \"one of the best arguments for travel I can think of,\" and lauded its ability to exist as a \"functioning multicultural, multilingual, extraordinarily TOLERANT society ... It's someplace that everyone, given the chance, should go.\" (\u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/bourdain-parts-unknown-senegal/index.html\">In that episode, he sits down with our own Ofeibea Quist-Arcton\u003c/a> to share a snack in one of the city's bustling street markets.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Supporting Women and Immigrants\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Closer to home, Bourdain was an early supporter of #MeToo, noting he'd met several women who'd told him awful stories of abuse. In an interview with \u003cem>The Cut\u003c/em>, Bourdain confessed he'd partially awakened to how widespread the issue of male predation was \u003ca href=\"http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/gossip/anthony-bourdain-cooks-asia-argento-rose-mcgowan-article-1.3656784\">when his girlfriend, Asia Argento, confided she was one of disgraced film maker Harvey Weinstein's accusers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I stand unhesitatingly and unwaveringly with the women,\" he wrote on \u003ca href=\"https://medium.com/@Bourdain/on-reacting-to-bad-news-28bc2c4b9adc\">in a 2017 essay on Medium\u003c/a>. And he meant not just in the film industry: \"Right now, nothing else matters but women's stories of what it's like in the industry I have loved and celebrated for nearly 30 years...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also clapped back at the country's growing anti-immigrant, especially anti-Mexican, sentiment. \u003ca href=\"http://anthonybourdain.tumblr.com/post/84641290831/under-the-volcano\">On his blog in 2014\u003c/a>, Bourdain noted that, \"Americans love Mexican food ... Despite our ridiculously hypocritical attitudes towards immigration, we demand that Mexicans cook a large percentage of the food we eat, grow the ingredients we need to make that food, clean our houses, mow our lawns, wash our dishes, look after our children. As any chef will tell you, our entire service economy—the restaurant business as we know it—in most American cities, would collapse overnight without Mexican workers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's noticing things like that — and being unafraid to voice those observations in his books, blogs and on his television shows, that made Anthony Bourdain beloved, even revered, by the many communities of marginalized people that he visited, touched and supported.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Azka Mahmood wakes up at 4 in the morning for Suhoor, the meal Muslims eat before starting their fast. From the fridge, she grabs the barley porridge that she prepared the night before, and wolfs it down with her husband, Tariq. They offer their prayers, then go back to sleep before waking again to get their children ready for school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mahmood's routine is typical of the 4.5 million Muslims in the United States and Canada. Ramadan, the holy month of fasting, is an important time around the world for Muslims, who adapt their pace of life to the needs of the month. Businesses and schools shorten their hours, opening up time for people to gather and reflect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Life in the U.S. continues unabated, but the Ramadan experience for its diverse communities of Muslims varies incredibly upon their work, communities and priorities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sarah Zaheer Shah, a family physician in Dallas, chooses to be a pragmatist. She and her husband, Sajid, parents of two children, tend to keep things simple. For Sahoor, Shah buys store-bought parathas (flatbreads) that she will eat with scrambled eggs. For Iftar, the meal eaten by Muslims after sunset during Ramadan, she prepares a colorful fruit salad, followed by a simple home-cooked meal made with chicken curry or ground beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Other times of the year, I try to make things from scratch. But during Ramadan, I rely more on processed foods,\" she says. While growing up in Pakistan, it was customary to eat a large Iftar, but now Shah is not in favor of going overboard because she finds it only makes her more tired during her fast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sarah Mir, who started the blog \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandspiceblog.com/\">Flour & Spice\u003c/a>\u003c/em> out of Toronto, says that during Ramadan you cannot go on as normal, \"You have to be very mindful of the food choices. Otherwise, you will be a grouch the whole day!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A growing number of Muslim food bloggers and dietitians are producing creative content to address the shifting needs of young Muslims such as Shah and Mir who are looking to streamline their routines during Ramadan and stay healthy; mirroring heightened consciousness about nutrition and fitness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heifa Odeh, who started the blog \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fufuskitchen.com/\">Fufu's Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, says her dietary habits are personal: \"I struggled with my weight for years. And food was something I had to change about my life.\" Odeh began to look for ways to make day-to-day Middle Eastern food healthier by incorporating gluten and dairy-free ingredients. She carried this strategy into Ramadan: \"I actually first lost weight during Ramadan because of how I changed the way I eat, and wanted to use my blog to share strategies so others could do the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Abeer Najjar, a Chicago-based chef and food blogger, finds this talk of health and fitness to be a major shift from the Ramadan of her childhood, which centered around sharing a simple Iftar with your family in the evening and a visit to the neighborhood mosque. This month, Najjar has been hit with a series of ads on social media from food and fitness bloggers framing Ramadan as a time to get healthy. But for her, \"Ramadan is a time for me to spend more time on worship, reflection, being mindful and spending time with my family. I don't want to be on my phone all the time.\" Abeer is also uncomfortable with the growing commercialism of Ramadan. \"I think about whether I would be posting to help other Muslims or just to capitalize on Ramadan,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some dietitians and food bloggers, fasting and wellness go hand in hand. Shahzadi Devje, Toronto-based dietician, food blogger and chair of the \u003ca href=\"https://the.ismaili/microsite/nutrition\">Ismaili Nutrition Centre\u003c/a>, emphasizes that Ramadan is about discipline and balance. \"Ramadan is a time when people easily get carried away with overindulgence after a long day of fasting and tip the balance,\" she says. Devje works with her clients and readers to suggest small changes in their habits to help keep them energized and hydrated for longer during the fast. For instance, she recommends using chickpea or multi-grain flour to make chapatis instead of white flour, and reducing the consumption of red meat to make way for richly flavored fish and daal (lentil soup). Her biggest message: To focus on spirituality, you need to be feeling your best physically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Izzah Cheema, founder of the blog \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teaforturmeric.com/\">Tea for Turmeric\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, shares Devje's sentiment, and collaborates with dieticians and other food bloggers to promote eating habits to help maximize energy during Ramadan. However, she doesn't like to label traditional foods as unhealthy. \"There's great wisdom in our ancestral food,\" says Cheema. \"There's a lot of nutritionists and clean-eating bloggers that say sugar is the devil, fat is the devil. I try to bring a more balanced perspective.\" So Cheema focuses on South Asian ingredients that are loaded with nutrients, and suggests healthy tweaks to traditional Pakistani recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amanda Saab, former contestant on television's \u003ca href=\"https://www.fox.com/masterchef/\">\u003cem>MasterChef\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, blogger at \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://amandasplate.com/\">Amanda's Plate\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and founder of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.muslimneighbor.com/#welcome-1\">\"Dinner with Your Muslim Neighbor\"\u003c/a> supper club, grew up in the vibrant Muslim community of Dearborn, Mich., where her grandmother hosts Iftars for about 50 guests every weekend during Ramadan. So it's no surprise that Saab prioritizes gathering and community during the holy month. While she sometimes takes inspiration from chefs and bloggers focused on wellness, she enjoys sharing hacks for Ramadan that allow Muslims to host more easily while reducing food waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Arab hospitality is so generous,\" Saab says. \"This means making a lot of food, which leads to both overindulgence and waste.\" She finds both to be counterproductive to the spirit of Ramadan so she tries to lead by example, by promoting Iftar recipes that can easily double as leftovers or menus that don't feature more than one entrée.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Muslims in cities with much smaller communities, Ramadan may be more intimate, but not any less joyful. Mahmood, who lives in Panama City, Fla., likes to spend time with her children doing different Ramadan activities every day. They decorate the house, make handmade Eid cards or read books that emphasize values such as inclusiveness and kindness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mahmood spends Ramadan instilling a sense of Muslim identity in her children, but also remembering her roots. \"We don't eat a whole lot of desi [South Asian)] food in the U.S., but Ramadan is a time I make something Pakistani every day,\" she says. \"How can you have Iftar without fruit chaat and samosas?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Maryam Jillani is a freelance food writer based in Juarez, Mexico. She is founder of the blog \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pakistaneats.com/\">Pakistan Eats\u003c/a>\u003cem> and was \u003c/em>TASTE\u003cem> magazine's first Cook in Residence. You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/pakistaneats\">@pakistaneats\u003c/a>. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Azka Mahmood wakes up at 4 in the morning for Suhoor, the meal Muslims eat before starting their fast. From the fridge, she grabs the barley porridge that she prepared the night before, and wolfs it down with her husband, Tariq. They offer their prayers, then go back to sleep before waking again to get their children ready for school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mahmood's routine is typical of the 4.5 million Muslims in the United States and Canada. Ramadan, the holy month of fasting, is an important time around the world for Muslims, who adapt their pace of life to the needs of the month. Businesses and schools shorten their hours, opening up time for people to gather and reflect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Life in the U.S. continues unabated, but the Ramadan experience for its diverse communities of Muslims varies incredibly upon their work, communities and priorities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sarah Zaheer Shah, a family physician in Dallas, chooses to be a pragmatist. She and her husband, Sajid, parents of two children, tend to keep things simple. For Sahoor, Shah buys store-bought parathas (flatbreads) that she will eat with scrambled eggs. For Iftar, the meal eaten by Muslims after sunset during Ramadan, she prepares a colorful fruit salad, followed by a simple home-cooked meal made with chicken curry or ground beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Other times of the year, I try to make things from scratch. But during Ramadan, I rely more on processed foods,\" she says. While growing up in Pakistan, it was customary to eat a large Iftar, but now Shah is not in favor of going overboard because she finds it only makes her more tired during her fast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sarah Mir, who started the blog \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flourandspiceblog.com/\">Flour & Spice\u003c/a>\u003c/em> out of Toronto, says that during Ramadan you cannot go on as normal, \"You have to be very mindful of the food choices. Otherwise, you will be a grouch the whole day!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A growing number of Muslim food bloggers and dietitians are producing creative content to address the shifting needs of young Muslims such as Shah and Mir who are looking to streamline their routines during Ramadan and stay healthy; mirroring heightened consciousness about nutrition and fitness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heifa Odeh, who started the blog \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fufuskitchen.com/\">Fufu's Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, says her dietary habits are personal: \"I struggled with my weight for years. And food was something I had to change about my life.\" Odeh began to look for ways to make day-to-day Middle Eastern food healthier by incorporating gluten and dairy-free ingredients. She carried this strategy into Ramadan: \"I actually first lost weight during Ramadan because of how I changed the way I eat, and wanted to use my blog to share strategies so others could do the same.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Abeer Najjar, a Chicago-based chef and food blogger, finds this talk of health and fitness to be a major shift from the Ramadan of her childhood, which centered around sharing a simple Iftar with your family in the evening and a visit to the neighborhood mosque. This month, Najjar has been hit with a series of ads on social media from food and fitness bloggers framing Ramadan as a time to get healthy. But for her, \"Ramadan is a time for me to spend more time on worship, reflection, being mindful and spending time with my family. I don't want to be on my phone all the time.\" Abeer is also uncomfortable with the growing commercialism of Ramadan. \"I think about whether I would be posting to help other Muslims or just to capitalize on Ramadan,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some dietitians and food bloggers, fasting and wellness go hand in hand. Shahzadi Devje, Toronto-based dietician, food blogger and chair of the \u003ca href=\"https://the.ismaili/microsite/nutrition\">Ismaili Nutrition Centre\u003c/a>, emphasizes that Ramadan is about discipline and balance. \"Ramadan is a time when people easily get carried away with overindulgence after a long day of fasting and tip the balance,\" she says. Devje works with her clients and readers to suggest small changes in their habits to help keep them energized and hydrated for longer during the fast. For instance, she recommends using chickpea or multi-grain flour to make chapatis instead of white flour, and reducing the consumption of red meat to make way for richly flavored fish and daal (lentil soup). Her biggest message: To focus on spirituality, you need to be feeling your best physically.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Izzah Cheema, founder of the blog \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.teaforturmeric.com/\">Tea for Turmeric\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, shares Devje's sentiment, and collaborates with dieticians and other food bloggers to promote eating habits to help maximize energy during Ramadan. However, she doesn't like to label traditional foods as unhealthy. \"There's great wisdom in our ancestral food,\" says Cheema. \"There's a lot of nutritionists and clean-eating bloggers that say sugar is the devil, fat is the devil. I try to bring a more balanced perspective.\" So Cheema focuses on South Asian ingredients that are loaded with nutrients, and suggests healthy tweaks to traditional Pakistani recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amanda Saab, former contestant on television's \u003ca href=\"https://www.fox.com/masterchef/\">\u003cem>MasterChef\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, blogger at \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://amandasplate.com/\">Amanda's Plate\u003c/a>\u003c/em> and founder of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.muslimneighbor.com/#welcome-1\">\"Dinner with Your Muslim Neighbor\"\u003c/a> supper club, grew up in the vibrant Muslim community of Dearborn, Mich., where her grandmother hosts Iftars for about 50 guests every weekend during Ramadan. So it's no surprise that Saab prioritizes gathering and community during the holy month. While she sometimes takes inspiration from chefs and bloggers focused on wellness, she enjoys sharing hacks for Ramadan that allow Muslims to host more easily while reducing food waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Arab hospitality is so generous,\" Saab says. \"This means making a lot of food, which leads to both overindulgence and waste.\" She finds both to be counterproductive to the spirit of Ramadan so she tries to lead by example, by promoting Iftar recipes that can easily double as leftovers or menus that don't feature more than one entrée.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Muslims in cities with much smaller communities, Ramadan may be more intimate, but not any less joyful. Mahmood, who lives in Panama City, Fla., likes to spend time with her children doing different Ramadan activities every day. They decorate the house, make handmade Eid cards or read books that emphasize values such as inclusiveness and kindness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mahmood spends Ramadan instilling a sense of Muslim identity in her children, but also remembering her roots. \"We don't eat a whole lot of desi [South Asian)] food in the U.S., but Ramadan is a time I make something Pakistani every day,\" she says. \"How can you have Iftar without fruit chaat and samosas?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Maryam Jillani is a freelance food writer based in Juarez, Mexico. She is founder of the blog \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.pakistaneats.com/\">Pakistan Eats\u003c/a>\u003cem> and was \u003c/em>TASTE\u003cem> magazine's first Cook in Residence. You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/pakistaneats\">@pakistaneats\u003c/a>. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Worth The Whisk: How The Woman Behind Duke's Mayo Became A Tycoon",
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"content": "\u003cp>Peek into the walk-in refrigerators of the most lauded restaurants in the country, and you will likely find just one store-bought ingredient: Duke's Mayonnaise. But what most people don't know is that the company was founded by a Southern woman at a time when many women like her didn't run businesses.\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We make everything from scratch at Rhubarb,\" says John Fleer, a five-time finalist for a James Beard Award and the chef and owner of the farm-to-table restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://rhubarbasheville.com/\">Rhubarb\u003c/a> in Asheville, N.C. \"Duke's is one of the few packaged items we use, but we use the heck out of it,\" he says. And he's pretty serious about his affection for the condiment. \"I don't associate with chefs that don't use it. Or else, I enlighten them,\" he adds with a smile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fleer and many other professional chefs are not ashamed to admit that their own fresh-whisked mayonnaise can't compete with the magic found in a bottle of Duke's. As the cult of Duke's has racked up converts, and begun to expand beyond its original territory in America's Deep South, even the yellow-capped jars themselves have become treasured collector's items, serving as \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/dukes-mayonnaise-the-southern-spread-with-a-cult-following/2013/11/04/90f508a2-40e5-11e3-a624-41d661b0bb78_story.html?utm_term=.b5bad331d1bf\">wedding centerpieces\u003c/a> and cremation \u003ca href=\"http://abcnews.go.com/News/mans-last-wish-to-be-buried-in-dukes-mayonnaise-jar/blogEntry?id=23183262\">urns\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike most other mass-produced mayonnaise, Duke's contains no sugar. This gives it the signature tang that has kept both chefs and home cooks raving about it since the company was founded over 100 years ago. \"When they teach you how to make mayonnaise in culinary school, they are essentially teaching you how to make Duke's,\" says Fleer. \"It has the right balance of richness and acidity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the taste of Duke's mayonnaise has become well-known, many people probably don't know the story of how it was created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1881px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6.jpg\" alt=\"Housewife Eugenia Duke started making sandwiches for soldiers during World War I out of her Greenville, S.C. home, and eventually created a mayonnaise empire.\" width=\"1881\" height=\"1410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6.jpg 1881w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1881px) 100vw, 1881px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housewife Eugenia Duke started making sandwiches for soldiers during World War I out of her Greenville, S.C. home, and eventually created a mayonnaise empire. \u003ccite>(The C.F. Sauer Company)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The culinary genius behind this mayo is an unlikely one: Eugenia Thomas Slade Duke of Greenville, South Carolina — a self-described housewife who became an entrepreneur and a manufacturing tycoon. Duke was just 18 in 1900 when she married Harry Cuthbert Duke and moved to a rented house in Greenville, according to records compiled for an \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryhistory.org/exhibitions-events/changing-exhibits/past-exhibits/\">exhibit honoring Duke\u003c/a> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryhistory.org/\">Upcountry History Museum\u003c/a> in South Carolina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1917, the United States had just entered World War I, and Eugenia Duke was determined to help with the war effort. She had no formal training, but she knew how to make a mean sandwich. So she and her daughter Martha turned their small rental house kitchen into a sandwich-making line, turning out the classics like egg salad, chicken salad, and pimento cheese. They sold the sandwiches for 10 cents a piece to the infantryman at nearby Camp Sevier, one of the last stops for soldiers before they were shipped overseas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With many of the men away fighting or training, Duke's first sales force was nearly all female. Word about the Dukes' sandwiches quickly spread, and when the war ended, Eugenia Duke began selling her sandwiches at drugstores. \u003ca href=\"https://www.dukesandwich.com/100-years-1/\">Local lore claims\u003c/a> she sold 10,000 sandwiches in one day in the spring of 1919.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1923, Eugenia Duke had built a booming sandwich business, but she was struggling to keep up with demand. Her top salesman, C.D. Boyd, suggested that, while her sandwiches were delicious, it was really her mayonnaise that made them irresistible. Realizing that it would be more profitable to distribute jarred mayonnaise than fresh-made sandwiches, Duke did something surprising for a woman of the era: she decided to make the leap from homegrown entrepreneur to manufacturer, explains Bill Donahue, director of marketing until 2017 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.dukebrands.com/\">Duke Brands\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That same year, she launched the Duke's Mayonnaise company and opened one of the first manufacturing facilities in downtown Greenville. During this time, Duke's stature in the community skyrocketed. \"She was a presence in downtown Greenville and active in women's rights and a socialite,\" says Donahue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke loved parties and events, and she was known for wearing big hats and a string of pearls, no matter the occasion. She was also incredibly business-savvy — she struck a deal with the Ottaray Hotel, one of the first fashionable hotels in downtown Greenville, to host women's tea parties in the lobby. As the most influential women in Greenville enjoyed a quiet afternoon of sipping tea and catching up, they nibbled on finger sandwiches, made, of course, with Duke's Mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke was also active in public life. She was involved in the push to pass the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> amendment, granting women the right to vote in 1920. Yet, she was modest about her success. In the same year that she was finally able to cast a ballot, Duke listed her occupation as \"none\" on the 1920 census, even though her sandwich business had been thriving for nearly three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1929, Duke's Mayonnaise was thriving, yet demand was still outpacing what the Greenville factory could produce. When The C.F. Sauer Company, a family-owned spice producer based in Richmond, Virginia, approached Duke about selling her company, she agreed. She stayed on as the mayonnaise spokesperson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1950, Duke's daughter, Martha, married and moved to California, and Duke and her husband soon joined her. Yet Eugenia couldn't forget the thrill of entrepreneurial life, and once in California, she launched another sandwich company. She had already sold her name twice — first to C.F. Sauer and again to her bookkeeper, J. Allen Hart, who opened the Duke Sandwich Company. So she called the new business The Duchess Sandwich Company. It sold her signature sandwiches in southern California for over a decade, until Duke died at the age of 90.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, America's most beloved mayonnaise is still made in Eugenia Duke's hometown of Greenville. And Duke's vision lives on in the thousands of yellow-capped bottles lining grocery store shelves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we can be grateful to Eugenia Duke that it doesn't take any whisking to make a superb egg salad sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Maria Ribas is a literary agent and founder of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://cooksplusbooks.com/\">\u003cem>cooks & books\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a weekly newsletter on food, writing, and cookbooks. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrettdieterle.com/\">\u003cem>Jarrett Dieterle\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> is an alcohol policy analyst and spirits writer. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Long a Southern staple, Duke's Mayo is racking up converts among professional chefs across the U.S. But few know the surprising backstory of Eugenia Duke, the woman behind the century-old brand.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Peek into the walk-in refrigerators of the most lauded restaurants in the country, and you will likely find just one store-bought ingredient: Duke's Mayonnaise. But what most people don't know is that the company was founded by a Southern woman at a time when many women like her didn't run businesses.\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We make everything from scratch at Rhubarb,\" says John Fleer, a five-time finalist for a James Beard Award and the chef and owner of the farm-to-table restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://rhubarbasheville.com/\">Rhubarb\u003c/a> in Asheville, N.C. \"Duke's is one of the few packaged items we use, but we use the heck out of it,\" he says. And he's pretty serious about his affection for the condiment. \"I don't associate with chefs that don't use it. Or else, I enlighten them,\" he adds with a smile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fleer and many other professional chefs are not ashamed to admit that their own fresh-whisked mayonnaise can't compete with the magic found in a bottle of Duke's. As the cult of Duke's has racked up converts, and begun to expand beyond its original territory in America's Deep South, even the yellow-capped jars themselves have become treasured collector's items, serving as \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/dukes-mayonnaise-the-southern-spread-with-a-cult-following/2013/11/04/90f508a2-40e5-11e3-a624-41d661b0bb78_story.html?utm_term=.b5bad331d1bf\">wedding centerpieces\u003c/a> and cremation \u003ca href=\"http://abcnews.go.com/News/mans-last-wish-to-be-buried-in-dukes-mayonnaise-jar/blogEntry?id=23183262\">urns\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike most other mass-produced mayonnaise, Duke's contains no sugar. This gives it the signature tang that has kept both chefs and home cooks raving about it since the company was founded over 100 years ago. \"When they teach you how to make mayonnaise in culinary school, they are essentially teaching you how to make Duke's,\" says Fleer. \"It has the right balance of richness and acidity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But while the taste of Duke's mayonnaise has become well-known, many people probably don't know the story of how it was created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1881px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6.jpg\" alt=\"Housewife Eugenia Duke started making sandwiches for soldiers during World War I out of her Greenville, S.C. home, and eventually created a mayonnaise empire.\" width=\"1881\" height=\"1410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6.jpg 1881w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/eugenia-duke-1-15a68de692cb188d12ce30bfe6a7a8662a38fcf6-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1881px) 100vw, 1881px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Housewife Eugenia Duke started making sandwiches for soldiers during World War I out of her Greenville, S.C. home, and eventually created a mayonnaise empire. \u003ccite>(The C.F. Sauer Company)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The culinary genius behind this mayo is an unlikely one: Eugenia Thomas Slade Duke of Greenville, South Carolina — a self-described housewife who became an entrepreneur and a manufacturing tycoon. Duke was just 18 in 1900 when she married Harry Cuthbert Duke and moved to a rented house in Greenville, according to records compiled for an \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryhistory.org/exhibitions-events/changing-exhibits/past-exhibits/\">exhibit honoring Duke\u003c/a> at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.upcountryhistory.org/\">Upcountry History Museum\u003c/a> in South Carolina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1917, the United States had just entered World War I, and Eugenia Duke was determined to help with the war effort. She had no formal training, but she knew how to make a mean sandwich. So she and her daughter Martha turned their small rental house kitchen into a sandwich-making line, turning out the classics like egg salad, chicken salad, and pimento cheese. They sold the sandwiches for 10 cents a piece to the infantryman at nearby Camp Sevier, one of the last stops for soldiers before they were shipped overseas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With many of the men away fighting or training, Duke's first sales force was nearly all female. Word about the Dukes' sandwiches quickly spread, and when the war ended, Eugenia Duke began selling her sandwiches at drugstores. \u003ca href=\"https://www.dukesandwich.com/100-years-1/\">Local lore claims\u003c/a> she sold 10,000 sandwiches in one day in the spring of 1919.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1923, Eugenia Duke had built a booming sandwich business, but she was struggling to keep up with demand. Her top salesman, C.D. Boyd, suggested that, while her sandwiches were delicious, it was really her mayonnaise that made them irresistible. Realizing that it would be more profitable to distribute jarred mayonnaise than fresh-made sandwiches, Duke did something surprising for a woman of the era: she decided to make the leap from homegrown entrepreneur to manufacturer, explains Bill Donahue, director of marketing until 2017 at \u003ca href=\"https://www.dukebrands.com/\">Duke Brands\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That same year, she launched the Duke's Mayonnaise company and opened one of the first manufacturing facilities in downtown Greenville. During this time, Duke's stature in the community skyrocketed. \"She was a presence in downtown Greenville and active in women's rights and a socialite,\" says Donahue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke loved parties and events, and she was known for wearing big hats and a string of pearls, no matter the occasion. She was also incredibly business-savvy — she struck a deal with the Ottaray Hotel, one of the first fashionable hotels in downtown Greenville, to host women's tea parties in the lobby. As the most influential women in Greenville enjoyed a quiet afternoon of sipping tea and catching up, they nibbled on finger sandwiches, made, of course, with Duke's Mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke was also active in public life. She was involved in the push to pass the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> amendment, granting women the right to vote in 1920. Yet, she was modest about her success. In the same year that she was finally able to cast a ballot, Duke listed her occupation as \"none\" on the 1920 census, even though her sandwich business had been thriving for nearly three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1929, Duke's Mayonnaise was thriving, yet demand was still outpacing what the Greenville factory could produce. When The C.F. Sauer Company, a family-owned spice producer based in Richmond, Virginia, approached Duke about selling her company, she agreed. She stayed on as the mayonnaise spokesperson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1950, Duke's daughter, Martha, married and moved to California, and Duke and her husband soon joined her. Yet Eugenia couldn't forget the thrill of entrepreneurial life, and once in California, she launched another sandwich company. She had already sold her name twice — first to C.F. Sauer and again to her bookkeeper, J. Allen Hart, who opened the Duke Sandwich Company. So she called the new business The Duchess Sandwich Company. It sold her signature sandwiches in southern California for over a decade, until Duke died at the age of 90.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, America's most beloved mayonnaise is still made in Eugenia Duke's hometown of Greenville. And Duke's vision lives on in the thousands of yellow-capped bottles lining grocery store shelves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And we can be grateful to Eugenia Duke that it doesn't take any whisking to make a superb egg salad sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Maria Ribas is a literary agent and founder of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://cooksplusbooks.com/\">\u003cem>cooks & books\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a weekly newsletter on food, writing, and cookbooks. \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jarrettdieterle.com/\">\u003cem>Jarrett Dieterle\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> is an alcohol policy analyst and spirits writer. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>We all probably have at least one secret family recipe — think your grandma's chicken parmesan or uncle's \"mystery\" jello mold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But keeping that recipe a secret becomes a bit more complicated when an entire country falls in love with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's why Miguel Clarinha isn't taking any chances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/06/20180606_atc_only_6_people_in_the_world_know_the_recipe_for_portugals_famous_tarts.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with his cousin, Penelope, Clarinha manages \u003ca href=\"http://pasteisdebelem.pt/\">The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem\u003c/a>, an airy bakery and café just outside Lisbon, Portugal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our recipe has been a secret since 1837,\" says Clarinha. \"It's a tradition — a part of this place.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shop features a wide selection of traditional Portuguese cakes and coffees. But the real showstopper Clarinha is talking about is the \u003cem>Pastel de Bélem\u003c/em> (\u003cem>Pasteis\u003c/em> if you're talking about more than one) — a round, flaky and buttery tart with an egg custard filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's kind of like a crème brulée tart,\" says Lordes Pinero, who drove nearly 200 miles from her home in southern Portugal to visit the shop. \"We're going to ask for the recipe to see if they'll give it to us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinero will find out soon enough that's she's out of luck. Only six people in the world know this recipe — three of the shop's owners and three entrusted chefs who have been working in the bakery for more than 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were good bakers and also someone that management trusted,\" says Clarinha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their names are Ramiro, Carlos and Vitor. They work in a back room sealed off by a large white door marked as \"\u003cem>Oficina do Segredo\u003c/em>,\" or secret office. Every morning, the three men knead out huge slabs of the buttery dough and the homemade egg custard filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That makes enough to produce around 20,000 \u003cem>Pasteis\u003c/em> a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imitations, known as the \u003cem>Pastel de Nata\u003c/em>, can be found all over Portugal — all over the world, really. But the tarts made here are called \"\u003cem>Pastel de Belem\u003c/em>,\" named for the town where they were invented back in the 18\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century — and still baked today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/portugal2_wide-3872926d31fb7bc4fa3cf3bbe567b938999731f6-e1528321370961.jpg\" alt=\"So many customers flock to the shop that Clarinha says the bakery produces more than 20,000 of the homemade custard tarts each day.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128803\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So many customers flock to the shop that Clarinha says the bakery produces more than 20,000 of the homemade custard tarts each day. \u003ccite>(Rebecca Rosman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It all started at the neighboring Jeronimos Monastery, where monks would use egg whites to starch their clothing. The leftover yolks became dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The monastery closed in 1820 following a liberal revolution, but the recipe found new life after being passed down to a sugar refinery owner. In 1837, he opened up a small trading shop where he sold the tarts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That shop still exists today as the bakery's front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clarinha's family took over the business in the early 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century. They now have been overseeing operations for four generations. It's a detail he thinks makes just as big a difference as the secret recipe itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this wasn't a family-owned business it would have expanded,\" says Clarinha. \"The cakes would probably start being frozen and exposed and franchised ... and that's really not our philosophy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a tradition that keeps customers coming back. Giles Williams first came to the shop on holiday from London 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immediately when he landed at the airport on a recent trip, he knew exactly where he was taking his friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every time I come to Lisbon I come here within about the first two hours,\" says Williams. \"They're just the best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes them the best? It's hard to know without having the exact recipe, but most customers talk about the freshness of the tarts, which are served just out of the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're crispy and still warm here, whereas other places we eat them cold,\" says Rosa Morigado, a visitor from France. \"It really tastes different when it's warm ... topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At only just over a euro a pop, customers also say they can live without learning the secret recipe that lies behind the big white door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rebecca Rosman is a freelance writer based in Paris. You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/rebs_rosman?lang=en\">@rebs_rosman\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In a family-owned cafe outside of Lisbon, select bakers make a custard treat called the \u003cem>Pastel de Bélem\u003c/em>, which draws fans from all over the world. But the recipe has been closely guarded since 1837.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with his cousin, Penelope, Clarinha manages \u003ca href=\"http://pasteisdebelem.pt/\">The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem\u003c/a>, an airy bakery and café just outside Lisbon, Portugal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our recipe has been a secret since 1837,\" says Clarinha. \"It's a tradition — a part of this place.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shop features a wide selection of traditional Portuguese cakes and coffees. But the real showstopper Clarinha is talking about is the \u003cem>Pastel de Bélem\u003c/em> (\u003cem>Pasteis\u003c/em> if you're talking about more than one) — a round, flaky and buttery tart with an egg custard filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's kind of like a crème brulée tart,\" says Lordes Pinero, who drove nearly 200 miles from her home in southern Portugal to visit the shop. \"We're going to ask for the recipe to see if they'll give it to us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinero will find out soon enough that's she's out of luck. Only six people in the world know this recipe — three of the shop's owners and three entrusted chefs who have been working in the bakery for more than 40 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were good bakers and also someone that management trusted,\" says Clarinha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their names are Ramiro, Carlos and Vitor. They work in a back room sealed off by a large white door marked as \"\u003cem>Oficina do Segredo\u003c/em>,\" or secret office. Every morning, the three men knead out huge slabs of the buttery dough and the homemade egg custard filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That makes enough to produce around 20,000 \u003cem>Pasteis\u003c/em> a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imitations, known as the \u003cem>Pastel de Nata\u003c/em>, can be found all over Portugal — all over the world, really. But the tarts made here are called \"\u003cem>Pastel de Belem\u003c/em>,\" named for the town where they were invented back in the 18\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century — and still baked today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128803\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/portugal2_wide-3872926d31fb7bc4fa3cf3bbe567b938999731f6-e1528321370961.jpg\" alt=\"So many customers flock to the shop that Clarinha says the bakery produces more than 20,000 of the homemade custard tarts each day.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128803\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So many customers flock to the shop that Clarinha says the bakery produces more than 20,000 of the homemade custard tarts each day. \u003ccite>(Rebecca Rosman/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It all started at the neighboring Jeronimos Monastery, where monks would use egg whites to starch their clothing. The leftover yolks became dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The monastery closed in 1820 following a liberal revolution, but the recipe found new life after being passed down to a sugar refinery owner. In 1837, he opened up a small trading shop where he sold the tarts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That shop still exists today as the bakery's front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clarinha's family took over the business in the early 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century. They now have been overseeing operations for four generations. It's a detail he thinks makes just as big a difference as the secret recipe itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If this wasn't a family-owned business it would have expanded,\" says Clarinha. \"The cakes would probably start being frozen and exposed and franchised ... and that's really not our philosophy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a tradition that keeps customers coming back. Giles Williams first came to the shop on holiday from London 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Immediately when he landed at the airport on a recent trip, he knew exactly where he was taking his friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every time I come to Lisbon I come here within about the first two hours,\" says Williams. \"They're just the best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes them the best? It's hard to know without having the exact recipe, but most customers talk about the freshness of the tarts, which are served just out of the oven.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're crispy and still warm here, whereas other places we eat them cold,\" says Rosa Morigado, a visitor from France. \"It really tastes different when it's warm ... topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At only just over a euro a pop, customers also say they can live without learning the secret recipe that lies behind the big white door.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rebecca Rosman is a freelance writer based in Paris. You can follow her on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/rebs_rosman?lang=en\">@rebs_rosman\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Skokie, Ill., Has Great Bagels — And An Even Better Story Behind Them",
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"content": "\u003cp>When my mother passed away in Sarasota, Fla., my sisters and I had 48 hours to pack up her condo and book it back to our hometown of Skokie, Ill., for her funeral. Embarking on a road trip together across six states, we could only fixate on one thing: Kaufman's bagels and trays for the \u003cem>shiva\u003c/em> (the Jewish tradition of seven days of mourning after burial). When it came to our mother's shiva, my sisters and I held a long-standing promise to invest in the best bagels and trays at all cost.\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was just one problem: It was Passover, when Jews celebrate the great Exodus out of Egypt. As we careened toward our own personal Promised Land, we worried that Kaufman's, a famous 50-year-old kosher-style deli and Skokie institution on Dempster Street, would be closed for the holiday. After much begging and pleading over the phone, Kaufman's came through with its grand fish and deli meat trays featuring the finest Nova lox, thinly sliced corned beef, tuna salad, gefilte fish, chive cream cheese, herring, sturgeon, sable, egg salad, chopped liver, black olives and salty pickles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But according to Jewish law, Jews are not allowed to eat bread over Passover in honor of those who fled Egypt before their bread could rise, so Kaufman's put the kibosh on bagels, much to our dismay. As grieving daughters, the need for bagels as a comfort food at our mom's shiva trumped any sort of allegiance to the Jewish laws of Passover. Suddenly, we had a bagel crisis on our hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearing Skokie limits, we put in a frantic call to New York Bagel & Bialy Corporation on Touhy Avenue, a Jewish delicatessen and bagel shop with locations in Skokie and neighboring Lincolnwood, and explained our situation. An assured voice on the line replied, \"We are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. We never close. Never.\" My sisters and I breathed a collective sigh of relief, knowing that Skokie, \"the world's largest village\" just 15 minutes north of Chicago off the the Eden's Expressway, would not fail us as Chicagoland's ultimate spot for Jewish food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why Skokie? The town lives and breathes the story of Jewish survival, thanks to its history as a hub for Holocaust survivors in the post-World War II era. Kaufman's owner Bette Dworkin explains, \"Kaufman's was started by a survivor [Maury Kaufman] and when my family bought it in '84, the bulk of the staff were survivors, with numbers on their arms [tattoos used as identification in Nazi concentration camps during WWII]. There was the largest per capita number of survivors in Skokie for any community in the country [...] Kaufman's was a hangout for survivors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1950s, Holocaust survivors arrived in Chicago seeking the embrace of an expanding and centuries-old Jewish community, with many settling in West Rogers Park. But the nearby suburb of Skokie, with relatively inexpensive plots, better schools, and a fast track to the city with the newly built Eden's Expressway in 1951 and the Chicago Transit Authority's \"Skokie Swift\" in 1964, attracted young Jewish families seeking more room and a better life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Skokie synagogues sprouted alongside Jewish delis and quirky diners like Sam & Hy's and Barnum & Bagel on Dempster Street. In the late 1970s, when Nazis attempted to march in the predominantly Jewish suburb, Skokie became a \u003ca href=\"https://qz.com/640183/in-a-us-suburb-famous-for-its-battle-with-neo-nazis-donald-trump-brings-back-unwelcome-memories/\">hub of resistance\u003c/a> against Nazi extremism. By the mid-'90s, when I was in high school, Jews made up nearly half of Skokie's population of approximately 80,000. Between the 1950s and the 1970s, an estimated \u003ca href=\"https://www.momentmag.com/the-life-and-times-of-skokie/\">8,000 Holocaust survivors\u003c/a> called Skokie home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robbie Scher, manager of New York Bagel & Bialy, takes immense pride in his shop's bagel legacy. \"Back in 1962, there really weren't that many decent places for bagels. ... We've never been a kosher bakery, but what we do is a true New York bagel. A lot of people don't boil [bagels], they just bake it, but we boil, which gives it the shine, puffs it up and gives it that unique flavor with that crisp crust. It's just a good bagel, and that's what we do.\" Scher estimates that New York Bagel & Bialy easily produces 2 to 3 million bagels a year as one of the main wholesale bagel suppliers in the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Contrary to popular belief, it's more than just New York water that makes a bagel taste best. It's really just an undying commitment to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/05/21/405190434/chew-on-this-the-science-of-great-nyc-bagels-its-not-the-water\">boiling process\u003c/a>, and both Kaufman's and New York Bagel & Bialy honor it religiously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kaufman's owner Dworkin believes a good bagel is bound by ritual and process. Whether eaten warm out of the oven with a little butter, or toasted with a \u003cem>schmear\u003c/em> of Nova lox, chive cream cheese, and thinly sliced onion, cucumber and tomato, a bagel \"\u003cem>is not \u003c/em>a bread doughnut!\" as Dworkin notes. \"It should be dense, it should be crusty, it should be chewy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dating back to 17th century Eastern Europe, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.haaretz.com/.premium-doughs-and-don-ts-the-jewish-roots-of-the-bagel-1.5336753\">bagel\u003c/a> has become synonymous with the story of Jewish struggle and survival itself. Representing the circle of life, the bagel embodies the mystic — and we simply don't know who we'd be without a warm bagel embrace during life's most sacred occasions, from \u003cem>bris\u003c/em> (circumcision) to shiva.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just like the Jewish people, the Skokie Jewish delis have had their trials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From a 1980s salmonella scare and a 1990s union-busting case to a devastating fire in 2011, Kaufman's has had to reinvent itself against all odds. Rising from the ashes, Kaufman's now thrives as a robust sit-down delicatessen and bakery with delectable desserts and a huge menu of sandwiches, salads and Jewish comfort foods. Dworkin states proudly, \"We're in the business of memories. Our biggest competitors? Memories of your grandmother's gefilte fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simply put, Kaufman's and New York Bagel & Bialy thrive because \"everybody loves a good bagel,\" Scher says. \"Plain, Mishmosh, Onion, Poppy, Sesame, those are our best sellers. We have people who come in from really far away — Israel, France, Wisconsin — and when you walk in here, you know, you just feel at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surrounded by memories of our mother at our family home in Skokie, the presence of bagels — yes, even at Passover — was a blessing and a comfort. Bagels nourished us as we stumbled through grief's country. And so we grieved together, praising Skokie for our soul food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When my mother passed away in Sarasota, Fla., my sisters and I had 48 hours to pack up her condo and book it back to our hometown of Skokie, Ill., for her funeral. Embarking on a road trip together across six states, we could only fixate on one thing: Kaufman's bagels and trays for the \u003cem>shiva\u003c/em> (the Jewish tradition of seven days of mourning after burial). When it came to our mother's shiva, my sisters and I held a long-standing promise to invest in the best bagels and trays at all cost.\u003cbr>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was just one problem: It was Passover, when Jews celebrate the great Exodus out of Egypt. As we careened toward our own personal Promised Land, we worried that Kaufman's, a famous 50-year-old kosher-style deli and Skokie institution on Dempster Street, would be closed for the holiday. After much begging and pleading over the phone, Kaufman's came through with its grand fish and deli meat trays featuring the finest Nova lox, thinly sliced corned beef, tuna salad, gefilte fish, chive cream cheese, herring, sturgeon, sable, egg salad, chopped liver, black olives and salty pickles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But according to Jewish law, Jews are not allowed to eat bread over Passover in honor of those who fled Egypt before their bread could rise, so Kaufman's put the kibosh on bagels, much to our dismay. As grieving daughters, the need for bagels as a comfort food at our mom's shiva trumped any sort of allegiance to the Jewish laws of Passover. Suddenly, we had a bagel crisis on our hands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearing Skokie limits, we put in a frantic call to New York Bagel & Bialy Corporation on Touhy Avenue, a Jewish delicatessen and bagel shop with locations in Skokie and neighboring Lincolnwood, and explained our situation. An assured voice on the line replied, \"We are open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. We never close. Never.\" My sisters and I breathed a collective sigh of relief, knowing that Skokie, \"the world's largest village\" just 15 minutes north of Chicago off the the Eden's Expressway, would not fail us as Chicagoland's ultimate spot for Jewish food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why Skokie? The town lives and breathes the story of Jewish survival, thanks to its history as a hub for Holocaust survivors in the post-World War II era. Kaufman's owner Bette Dworkin explains, \"Kaufman's was started by a survivor [Maury Kaufman] and when my family bought it in '84, the bulk of the staff were survivors, with numbers on their arms [tattoos used as identification in Nazi concentration camps during WWII]. There was the largest per capita number of survivors in Skokie for any community in the country [...] Kaufman's was a hangout for survivors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1950s, Holocaust survivors arrived in Chicago seeking the embrace of an expanding and centuries-old Jewish community, with many settling in West Rogers Park. But the nearby suburb of Skokie, with relatively inexpensive plots, better schools, and a fast track to the city with the newly built Eden's Expressway in 1951 and the Chicago Transit Authority's \"Skokie Swift\" in 1964, attracted young Jewish families seeking more room and a better life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Skokie synagogues sprouted alongside Jewish delis and quirky diners like Sam & Hy's and Barnum & Bagel on Dempster Street. In the late 1970s, when Nazis attempted to march in the predominantly Jewish suburb, Skokie became a \u003ca href=\"https://qz.com/640183/in-a-us-suburb-famous-for-its-battle-with-neo-nazis-donald-trump-brings-back-unwelcome-memories/\">hub of resistance\u003c/a> against Nazi extremism. By the mid-'90s, when I was in high school, Jews made up nearly half of Skokie's population of approximately 80,000. Between the 1950s and the 1970s, an estimated \u003ca href=\"https://www.momentmag.com/the-life-and-times-of-skokie/\">8,000 Holocaust survivors\u003c/a> called Skokie home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robbie Scher, manager of New York Bagel & Bialy, takes immense pride in his shop's bagel legacy. \"Back in 1962, there really weren't that many decent places for bagels. ... We've never been a kosher bakery, but what we do is a true New York bagel. A lot of people don't boil [bagels], they just bake it, but we boil, which gives it the shine, puffs it up and gives it that unique flavor with that crisp crust. It's just a good bagel, and that's what we do.\" Scher estimates that New York Bagel & Bialy easily produces 2 to 3 million bagels a year as one of the main wholesale bagel suppliers in the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Contrary to popular belief, it's more than just New York water that makes a bagel taste best. It's really just an undying commitment to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/05/21/405190434/chew-on-this-the-science-of-great-nyc-bagels-its-not-the-water\">boiling process\u003c/a>, and both Kaufman's and New York Bagel & Bialy honor it religiously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kaufman's owner Dworkin believes a good bagel is bound by ritual and process. Whether eaten warm out of the oven with a little butter, or toasted with a \u003cem>schmear\u003c/em> of Nova lox, chive cream cheese, and thinly sliced onion, cucumber and tomato, a bagel \"\u003cem>is not \u003c/em>a bread doughnut!\" as Dworkin notes. \"It should be dense, it should be crusty, it should be chewy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dating back to 17th century Eastern Europe, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.haaretz.com/.premium-doughs-and-don-ts-the-jewish-roots-of-the-bagel-1.5336753\">bagel\u003c/a> has become synonymous with the story of Jewish struggle and survival itself. Representing the circle of life, the bagel embodies the mystic — and we simply don't know who we'd be without a warm bagel embrace during life's most sacred occasions, from \u003cem>bris\u003c/em> (circumcision) to shiva.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just like the Jewish people, the Skokie Jewish delis have had their trials.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From a 1980s salmonella scare and a 1990s union-busting case to a devastating fire in 2011, Kaufman's has had to reinvent itself against all odds. Rising from the ashes, Kaufman's now thrives as a robust sit-down delicatessen and bakery with delectable desserts and a huge menu of sandwiches, salads and Jewish comfort foods. Dworkin states proudly, \"We're in the business of memories. Our biggest competitors? Memories of your grandmother's gefilte fish.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simply put, Kaufman's and New York Bagel & Bialy thrive because \"everybody loves a good bagel,\" Scher says. \"Plain, Mishmosh, Onion, Poppy, Sesame, those are our best sellers. We have people who come in from really far away — Israel, France, Wisconsin — and when you walk in here, you know, you just feel at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surrounded by memories of our mother at our family home in Skokie, the presence of bagels — yes, even at Passover — was a blessing and a comfort. Bagels nourished us as we stumbled through grief's country. And so we grieved together, praising Skokie for our soul food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Colonel In The Kitchen: A Surprising History Of Sous Vide",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Long before sous vide became a culinary sensation celebrated by top chefs around the world a retired Army colonel started cooking meat and vegetables in sealed plastic pouches immersed in a water bath to liven up the flavor of hospital food. But you'd be hard pressed to find his name associated with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ambrose McGuckian wasn't looking for accolades from food critics and gourmands. He wanted to impress hospital patients at the Greenville Hospital System in South Carolina who'd been complaining about the \"institutional dullness\" of their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuckian was my step-grandfather and everyone called him \"Mac.\" In 1968, he was the project manager of a regional study to overhaul hospital food service. He'd been instructed to improve the quality of food while keeping costs down. So he studied existing food service programs and methods of food preparation until he found a formula that boosted taste and extended shelf life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Traditional methods of hospital food service have locked operations into a spiral of ever-increasing costs in food, wages, equipment and supplies,\" Mac, then president of a company called A.G.S. Food System, Inc., \u003ca href=\"http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/001088046901000124\">wrote\u003c/a> in the May 1969 issue of \u003cem>Cornell Hotel & Restaurant Administration Quarterly\u003c/em>. But \"water bath cooking, in which the food product is first vacuum packaged in a plastic pouch and then immersed for a specified time in water heated to and maintained at a designated temperature,\" locked in flavor and streamlined food service, he wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128000\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 907px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a.jpg\" alt=\"Illustrations of how the A.G.S. system portioned and cooked food, featured in the May 1969 issue of Cornell Hospital & Restaurant Administration Quarterly magazine. Col. Ambrose McGuckian, the author's step-grandfather, wrote in the magazine about the "water bath cooking" technique he'd developed — which sounds an awful lot like what we now know as sous vide.\" width=\"907\" height=\"597\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a.jpg 907w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-800x527.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-768x506.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-240x158.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-375x247.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-520x342.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 907px) 100vw, 907px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Illustrations of how the A.G.S. system portioned and cooked food, featured in the May 1969 issue of Cornell Hospital & Restaurant Administration Quarterly magazine. Col. Ambrose McGuckian, the author's step-grandfather, wrote in the magazine about the \"water bath cooking\" technique he'd developed — which sounds an awful lot like what we now know as sous vide.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once cooked, the food could be safely refrigerated for at least 60 days, then zapped in the microwave (yes, they had them in the foodservice industry back then) and served. No more dull, frozen-and-reheated meals, no more over-production and waste, no more pots to scrape—and the patients were happy, according to Mac's article.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it was just like, 'Bingo, this is something that is going to change the way America eats,' \" says Peter McGuckian. He's Mac's son and my step-uncle, and he remembers how excited Mac was about the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward 50 years, and cooking \"under vacuum\" — also known as sous vide — has revolutionized the industry, helped along by Michelin-starred chefs like Thomas Keller.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/lAeDR2fE0jA\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, thanks to a new generation of tools, even home cooks can sous vide anything from roast beef to egg whites in their own kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But aside from a couple of references buried in food science textbooks, no one seems to remember my step-grandfather's contribution.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs, scientists and plastics\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most sources credit two French chefs — Bruno Goussault and George Pralus — with independently developing sous vide, then working together to refine it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Goussault, who's known as the \"father of sous vide,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuisinesolutions.com/about/meet-our-chief-scientist/\">developed the technique\u003c/a> in 1971, he was looking for a way to improve the tenderness of roast beef. Pralus, who's also been called the \"father of sous vide,\" discovered in 1974 that \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/14/magazine/under-pressure.html\">wrapping foie gras in plastic\u003c/a> prevented the fatty liver from shrinking as it cooked. A few years later, the two chefs teamed up with Cryovac, a plastic manufacturer, to fine-tune the method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1991, when Goussault opened the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lecrea.com/en/about/academy/\">Culinary Research and Education Academy\u003c/a> in Paris, as a training center that promised to take the technique \"from boil-in-bag to haute cuisine,\" sous vide was on its way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goussault leads sous vide seminars for the culinary school, which trains chefs throughout the world, and is chief scientist at \u003ca href=\"https://www.cuisinesolutions.com/\">Cuisine Solutions\u003c/a>, a large-scale sous vide supplier based in Virginia. I recently asked him whether he'd heard of my step-grandfather's work. He said he hadn't, but that he was familiar with the Nacka System, which was developed in Swedish hospitals in the 1960s, according to a Canadian \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=CWkH8YHiYsEC&pg=PA255&dq=nacka+system+mcguckian&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXqamfzOPaAhUkwFkKHZX9D1oQ6AEILzAB%23v=onepage&q=nacka%2520system%2520mcguckian&f=false\">research book\u003c/a> on the principles of sous vide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this system — which Mac tested during his project — items were fully cooked, then vacuum-sealed, refrigerated and boiled before serving. But those who sampled the results said the food had a \"tired\" taste, likely as a result of overcooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even before Nacka, there was interest in how the new soft plastics being developed could be used in the kitchen, but not necessarily for cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1960s, as people started buying more prepared foods, there was a push to develop lightweight containers, says \u003ca href=\"https://foodscience.cals.cornell.edu/people/julie-goddard-0\">Julie Goddard\u003c/a>, an associate professor at Cornell University who studies the intersection of food and materials science.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food scientist and culinary anthropologist Carl Rietz describes cooking in plastic in his \u003ca href=\"https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001046644\">1961 book\u003c/a> on culinary techniques, and warned against vapor pressure causing the plastic to rip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sous vide has come a long way since then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128001\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/mcguckianflowchart_vert-5d12aeb311888e3303ed949105d5a85b6839f7ba-e1526000490904.jpg\" alt=\"Ambrose McGuckian created a flowchart to illustrate the sequence of hospital food service from storage to preparation to patient for his patent.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128001\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ambrose McGuckian created a flowchart to illustrate the sequence of hospital food service from storage to preparation to patient for his patent. \u003ccite>(courtesy McGuckian family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days, chefs have temperature controllers that can help \"dial in texture,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://foodscience.cals.cornell.edu/people/christopher-loss-phd\">Chris Loss,\u003c/a> a professor of food science at Cornell University. \"You definitely can change the sensory properties of foods by trapping in those aromas and juices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cryovac system\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac, who died in 2000, spent his career in the Army's Quartermaster Corps, in charge of organizing military food supplies during and after World War II. After retiring in 1964 as a colonel, he started a personnel firm placing Army veterans in food service jobs. Then he was hired by chemicals giant W.R. Grace as a consultant on the South Carolina hospital study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around the same time, his son Peter remembers coming home from college to find various sealed plastic packages in his parents' refrigerator. Sometimes, Mac would ask him to open up a pouch and taste what was inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One time, I said, 'Hey Dad, that's been in there for a little while,' \" Peter remembers. \"Go ahead, try it,\" Mac insisted, and Peter did. \"You've got to trust your dad, right?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac called his technique \"the A.G.S. System,\" named for the company formed to produce food and distribute it to the three hospitals in Anderson, Greenville, and Spartanburg, S.C. But it's more commonly known as \"the Cryovac system,\" for the manufacturer of plastic packaging and water bath cookers used in the project. Cryovac was a division of W.R. Grace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac patented the technique in the U.S. and a few other countries, but Cryovac claimed ownership of the technique because Mac was one of its contractors when he developed it. They went back and forth over the rights for years, based on documents and correspondence Mac saved. Sometime in the early '70s they reached a cross-licensing arrangement, with A.G.S. as the formal assignee for Mac's patent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/mcguckianpatent-4ebad028fb33490dfb44f687c0c67c4a01821872-e1526000573789.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128002\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ambrose McGuckian's method of cooking and storing food in flexible bags, known as the 'A.G.S. Food System,' was an early form of sous-vide. \u003ccite>( courtesy McGuckian family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But in 1978, Mac writes in a letter to A.G.S. that Cryovac lawyers told him the patent wasn't worth \"really anything.\" Mac writes that he decided \"ownership of the patent, worthless as it may be, would mean more to me than ownership of 4,000 shares of AGS stock.\" He asked for an exchange.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[The patent] was important to my father because it was his baby and it was a significant development in the food industry at the time,\" remembers Peter's brother, Paul McGuckian, who is my stepfather. Paul, a retired judge, served as his father's attorney during negotiations with Cryovac and W.R. Grace in the 1970s. \"He hoped he could make some money from it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as we know, he never did. Eventually the patent faded from everyone's memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Cryovac is owned by Sealed Air. Asked for a comment on this story, a company representative emailed a statement describing \"a long line of contributions to the advancement of food safety and food packaging.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR.\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>Long before sous vide became a culinary sensation celebrated by top chefs around the world a retired Army colonel started cooking meat and vegetables in sealed plastic pouches immersed in a water bath to liven up the flavor of hospital food. But you'd be hard pressed to find his name associated with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ambrose McGuckian wasn't looking for accolades from food critics and gourmands. He wanted to impress hospital patients at the Greenville Hospital System in South Carolina who'd been complaining about the \"institutional dullness\" of their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuckian was my step-grandfather and everyone called him \"Mac.\" In 1968, he was the project manager of a regional study to overhaul hospital food service. He'd been instructed to improve the quality of food while keeping costs down. So he studied existing food service programs and methods of food preparation until he found a formula that boosted taste and extended shelf life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Traditional methods of hospital food service have locked operations into a spiral of ever-increasing costs in food, wages, equipment and supplies,\" Mac, then president of a company called A.G.S. Food System, Inc., \u003ca href=\"http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/001088046901000124\">wrote\u003c/a> in the May 1969 issue of \u003cem>Cornell Hotel & Restaurant Administration Quarterly\u003c/em>. But \"water bath cooking, in which the food product is first vacuum packaged in a plastic pouch and then immersed for a specified time in water heated to and maintained at a designated temperature,\" locked in flavor and streamlined food service, he wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128000\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 907px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a.jpg\" alt=\"Illustrations of how the A.G.S. system portioned and cooked food, featured in the May 1969 issue of Cornell Hospital & Restaurant Administration Quarterly magazine. Col. Ambrose McGuckian, the author's step-grandfather, wrote in the magazine about the "water bath cooking" technique he'd developed — which sounds an awful lot like what we now know as sous vide.\" width=\"907\" height=\"597\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a.jpg 907w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-800x527.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-768x506.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-240x158.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-375x247.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/a.g.s.-system_custom-cce71e8421dca4fc8ed096b69db5a79b0e15c16a-520x342.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 907px) 100vw, 907px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Illustrations of how the A.G.S. system portioned and cooked food, featured in the May 1969 issue of Cornell Hospital & Restaurant Administration Quarterly magazine. Col. Ambrose McGuckian, the author's step-grandfather, wrote in the magazine about the \"water bath cooking\" technique he'd developed — which sounds an awful lot like what we now know as sous vide.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Once cooked, the food could be safely refrigerated for at least 60 days, then zapped in the microwave (yes, they had them in the foodservice industry back then) and served. No more dull, frozen-and-reheated meals, no more over-production and waste, no more pots to scrape—and the patients were happy, according to Mac's article.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it was just like, 'Bingo, this is something that is going to change the way America eats,' \" says Peter McGuckian. He's Mac's son and my step-uncle, and he remembers how excited Mac was about the project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward 50 years, and cooking \"under vacuum\" — also known as sous vide — has revolutionized the industry, helped along by Michelin-starred chefs like Thomas Keller.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/lAeDR2fE0jA'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/lAeDR2fE0jA'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Now, thanks to a new generation of tools, even home cooks can sous vide anything from roast beef to egg whites in their own kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But aside from a couple of references buried in food science textbooks, no one seems to remember my step-grandfather's contribution.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs, scientists and plastics\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most sources credit two French chefs — Bruno Goussault and George Pralus — with independently developing sous vide, then working together to refine it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Goussault, who's known as the \"father of sous vide,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuisinesolutions.com/about/meet-our-chief-scientist/\">developed the technique\u003c/a> in 1971, he was looking for a way to improve the tenderness of roast beef. Pralus, who's also been called the \"father of sous vide,\" discovered in 1974 that \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2005/08/14/magazine/under-pressure.html\">wrapping foie gras in plastic\u003c/a> prevented the fatty liver from shrinking as it cooked. A few years later, the two chefs teamed up with Cryovac, a plastic manufacturer, to fine-tune the method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By 1991, when Goussault opened the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lecrea.com/en/about/academy/\">Culinary Research and Education Academy\u003c/a> in Paris, as a training center that promised to take the technique \"from boil-in-bag to haute cuisine,\" sous vide was on its way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Goussault leads sous vide seminars for the culinary school, which trains chefs throughout the world, and is chief scientist at \u003ca href=\"https://www.cuisinesolutions.com/\">Cuisine Solutions\u003c/a>, a large-scale sous vide supplier based in Virginia. I recently asked him whether he'd heard of my step-grandfather's work. He said he hadn't, but that he was familiar with the Nacka System, which was developed in Swedish hospitals in the 1960s, according to a Canadian \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=CWkH8YHiYsEC&pg=PA255&dq=nacka+system+mcguckian&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiXqamfzOPaAhUkwFkKHZX9D1oQ6AEILzAB%23v=onepage&q=nacka%2520system%2520mcguckian&f=false\">research book\u003c/a> on the principles of sous vide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this system — which Mac tested during his project — items were fully cooked, then vacuum-sealed, refrigerated and boiled before serving. But those who sampled the results said the food had a \"tired\" taste, likely as a result of overcooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even before Nacka, there was interest in how the new soft plastics being developed could be used in the kitchen, but not necessarily for cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1960s, as people started buying more prepared foods, there was a push to develop lightweight containers, says \u003ca href=\"https://foodscience.cals.cornell.edu/people/julie-goddard-0\">Julie Goddard\u003c/a>, an associate professor at Cornell University who studies the intersection of food and materials science.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food scientist and culinary anthropologist Carl Rietz describes cooking in plastic in his \u003ca href=\"https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001046644\">1961 book\u003c/a> on culinary techniques, and warned against vapor pressure causing the plastic to rip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sous vide has come a long way since then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128001\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/mcguckianflowchart_vert-5d12aeb311888e3303ed949105d5a85b6839f7ba-e1526000490904.jpg\" alt=\"Ambrose McGuckian created a flowchart to illustrate the sequence of hospital food service from storage to preparation to patient for his patent.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128001\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ambrose McGuckian created a flowchart to illustrate the sequence of hospital food service from storage to preparation to patient for his patent. \u003ccite>(courtesy McGuckian family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These days, chefs have temperature controllers that can help \"dial in texture,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://foodscience.cals.cornell.edu/people/christopher-loss-phd\">Chris Loss,\u003c/a> a professor of food science at Cornell University. \"You definitely can change the sensory properties of foods by trapping in those aromas and juices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cryovac system\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac, who died in 2000, spent his career in the Army's Quartermaster Corps, in charge of organizing military food supplies during and after World War II. After retiring in 1964 as a colonel, he started a personnel firm placing Army veterans in food service jobs. Then he was hired by chemicals giant W.R. Grace as a consultant on the South Carolina hospital study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around the same time, his son Peter remembers coming home from college to find various sealed plastic packages in his parents' refrigerator. Sometimes, Mac would ask him to open up a pouch and taste what was inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One time, I said, 'Hey Dad, that's been in there for a little while,' \" Peter remembers. \"Go ahead, try it,\" Mac insisted, and Peter did. \"You've got to trust your dad, right?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac called his technique \"the A.G.S. System,\" named for the company formed to produce food and distribute it to the three hospitals in Anderson, Greenville, and Spartanburg, S.C. But it's more commonly known as \"the Cryovac system,\" for the manufacturer of plastic packaging and water bath cookers used in the project. Cryovac was a division of W.R. Grace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac patented the technique in the U.S. and a few other countries, but Cryovac claimed ownership of the technique because Mac was one of its contractors when he developed it. They went back and forth over the rights for years, based on documents and correspondence Mac saved. Sometime in the early '70s they reached a cross-licensing arrangement, with A.G.S. as the formal assignee for Mac's patent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128002\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/mcguckianpatent-4ebad028fb33490dfb44f687c0c67c4a01821872-e1526000573789.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128002\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ambrose McGuckian's method of cooking and storing food in flexible bags, known as the 'A.G.S. Food System,' was an early form of sous-vide. \u003ccite>( courtesy McGuckian family)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But in 1978, Mac writes in a letter to A.G.S. that Cryovac lawyers told him the patent wasn't worth \"really anything.\" Mac writes that he decided \"ownership of the patent, worthless as it may be, would mean more to me than ownership of 4,000 shares of AGS stock.\" He asked for an exchange.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[The patent] was important to my father because it was his baby and it was a significant development in the food industry at the time,\" remembers Peter's brother, Paul McGuckian, who is my stepfather. Paul, a retired judge, served as his father's attorney during negotiations with Cryovac and W.R. Grace in the 1970s. \"He hoped he could make some money from it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as we know, he never did. Eventually the patent faded from everyone's memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Cryovac is owned by Sealed Air. Asked for a comment on this story, a company representative emailed a statement describing \"a long line of contributions to the advancement of food safety and food packaging.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"order": 9
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-Political-Mind-of-Jerry-Brown-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 18
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"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
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"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
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"source": "American Public Media"
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"masters-of-scale": {
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"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
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"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"order": 11
},
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"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
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"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
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},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
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"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
},
"link": "/podcasts/politicalbreakdown",
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"amazon": "https://music.amazon.com/podcasts/e0c2d153-ad36-4c8d-901d-f1da6a724824/political-breakdown",
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"rss": "https://ww2.kqed.org/news/tag/political-breakdown/feed/podcast"
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
"meta": {
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
"subscribe": {
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
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