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"content": "\u003cp>Many of chef Lidia Bastianich's earliest memories are of her grandparents' village on the Istrian peninsula, which was part of Italy when she was a small child. The family ate what Bastianich now calls \"peasant food,\" farm-to-table meals consisting of animals they raised and fruits and vegetables they grew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, after Bastianich emigrated to America, she drew on those childhood meals in opening her first restaurant with her husband, Felice. \"We brought the simple dishes to a level of service and presentation that was above what it would be in the home,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bastianich's peasant-style Italian food proved popular, and she went on to open more restaurants and to appear in cooking shows on public television. In 2018, she won the Daytime Emmy Award for outstanding culinary host for her program \u003cem>Lidia's Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bastianich never forgot where she came from — or how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia. She writes about her family's escape from Yugoslavia and her love of food in the new memoir, \u003cem>My American Dream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2018/05/20180507_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127923\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/609095684/my-american-dream-a-life-of-love-family-and-food\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"My American Dream A Life of Love, Family, and Food by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich\" width=\"400\" height=\"596\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127923\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-160x238.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-240x358.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/9781524731618_custom-6b8f66481c35eccd9b6d4b90f6b6a6f1c621863e-s700-c85-375x559.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/609095684/my-american-dream-a-life-of-love-family-and-food\">My American Dream\u003cbr>A Life of Love, Family, and Food\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich\u003cbr>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On growing up on her grandparents' farm, where she would bond with the animals that they would eventually eat\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I loved the bunny rabbits. Small rabbits — when they came — we played and we cuddled them, and then two weeks later they were part of the dinner table. Somehow, this cycle of life, you accept it. You bond, you learn, you connect, you help to raise these little animals and they become adult animals and they become food. And when food is scarce, every morsel is really appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sense, you are grateful to these animals. You celebrate them in a way, because they are giving us life. And I think that the caveat here is respect — respect for food. We need to eat food, but let's not waste it at all. Let's respect the animals that feed us. ... That's the important element here, because I continued to certainly cook all kinds of meats. But I love animals and I respect them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was the border and, of course, on the Italian side we had some family that was kind of left on that side. And we were on the other side, on the Communist side. So my mother decided that supposedly our ... great aunt Nina in Trieste [Italy], was not feeling well. And so we got a visa. And that's only the three of us — my mother, my brother and I — my father they wouldn't give a visa. He had to remain, you know, as a hostage in a sense so that the family [would] return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We went to Trieste, visited the aunt, stayed with the aunt. The aunt looked fine to me ... and then about two to three weeks later my father escaped the border, literally walking about 50 kilometers, crossing the barbed wire fence with the dogs. They were shooting at him, but he made it. And we reunited in Trieste in 1956.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Julia Child encouraged her to start cooking on television \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as television, when I was the chef in Felidia [Restaurant], ... one of the [people] that came was Julia Child, and with her, also, James Beard came for dinner. And she was very interested in risotto — how to make it. So we became friends, I taught her how to make risotto, and we continued our friendship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She asked me to be on her show, the \u003cem>[Cooking with] Master Chefs\u003c/em> series. And that's when the producer says, \"Lidia, you're pretty good. How about a show of your own?\" And that was 20 years ago. So I thought about it. She encouraged me. She said, \"Lidia, you go ahead. You do for Italian food what I did for French food. You can do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I asked the producer for two things. [One] was that I'd be on PBS, because the platform is second to none for information and that's where I wanted to be. And the second request was that I tape it in my home. And that was purely because I was afraid of getting in a studio. I was never in a studio. I didn't know what cooking in a studio entailed. And I said, \"In my home, I know my stove. I know where everything is.\" And so it began.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her experience as an immigrant child shapes her view of immigration today\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't help it when I watch the television to see those children in [refugee] camp. And yes, they run, they're joyful. But I know what they feel at night when they go to bed and how they think, \"What's tomorrow? Are my parents going to be with me? Are we going to have a home? Am I going to make friends? Am I going to see my relatives again?\" ... I know that those children have the same thoughts. So I feel really connected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So hopefully me telling my story is a good story. It's a story of somebody that, yes, faced adversity like a lot of people are facing today. But given a chance, and working hard, and being spiritual, and staying strong to those basic values can take you to great places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the #MeToo movement in the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a sad subject and it is real. Maybe because of my matriarchal, if you will, position, I was always looked on with respect. But ... I tell women in the industry, and for that matter everybody, you need to give respect and you need to actually demand and get respect back. Have I seen it? It's unavoidable to see different things, and I've corrected it along the way as much as I've seen. But it is a reality there. And my case, it was always more of a family situation, my husband was always there ... and hence, mine maybe wasn't as direct. 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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I loved the bunny rabbits. Small rabbits — when they came — we played and we cuddled them, and then two weeks later they were part of the dinner table. Somehow, this cycle of life, you accept it. You bond, you learn, you connect, you help to raise these little animals and they become adult animals and they become food. And when food is scarce, every morsel is really appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a sense, you are grateful to these animals. You celebrate them in a way, because they are giving us life. And I think that the caveat here is respect — respect for food. We need to eat food, but let's not waste it at all. Let's respect the animals that feed us. ... That's the important element here, because I continued to certainly cook all kinds of meats. But I love animals and I respect them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her family became refugees after World War II, when their region of Italy became part of communist Yugoslavia\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was the border and, of course, on the Italian side we had some family that was kind of left on that side. And we were on the other side, on the Communist side. So my mother decided that supposedly our ... great aunt Nina in Trieste [Italy], was not feeling well. And so we got a visa. And that's only the three of us — my mother, my brother and I — my father they wouldn't give a visa. He had to remain, you know, as a hostage in a sense so that the family [would] return.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We went to Trieste, visited the aunt, stayed with the aunt. The aunt looked fine to me ... and then about two to three weeks later my father escaped the border, literally walking about 50 kilometers, crossing the barbed wire fence with the dogs. They were shooting at him, but he made it. And we reunited in Trieste in 1956.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Julia Child encouraged her to start cooking on television \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as television, when I was the chef in Felidia [Restaurant], ... one of the [people] that came was Julia Child, and with her, also, James Beard came for dinner. And she was very interested in risotto — how to make it. So we became friends, I taught her how to make risotto, and we continued our friendship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She asked me to be on her show, the \u003cem>[Cooking with] Master Chefs\u003c/em> series. And that's when the producer says, \"Lidia, you're pretty good. How about a show of your own?\" And that was 20 years ago. So I thought about it. She encouraged me. She said, \"Lidia, you go ahead. You do for Italian food what I did for French food. You can do it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I asked the producer for two things. [One] was that I'd be on PBS, because the platform is second to none for information and that's where I wanted to be. And the second request was that I tape it in my home. And that was purely because I was afraid of getting in a studio. I was never in a studio. I didn't know what cooking in a studio entailed. And I said, \"In my home, I know my stove. I know where everything is.\" And so it began.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how her experience as an immigrant child shapes her view of immigration today\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't help it when I watch the television to see those children in [refugee] camp. And yes, they run, they're joyful. But I know what they feel at night when they go to bed and how they think, \"What's tomorrow? Are my parents going to be with me? Are we going to have a home? Am I going to make friends? Am I going to see my relatives again?\" ... I know that those children have the same thoughts. So I feel really connected.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So hopefully me telling my story is a good story. It's a story of somebody that, yes, faced adversity like a lot of people are facing today. But given a chance, and working hard, and being spiritual, and staying strong to those basic values can take you to great places.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the #MeToo movement in the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a sad subject and it is real. Maybe because of my matriarchal, if you will, position, I was always looked on with respect. But ... I tell women in the industry, and for that matter everybody, you need to give respect and you need to actually demand and get respect back. Have I seen it? It's unavoidable to see different things, and I've corrected it along the way as much as I've seen. But it is a reality there. And my case, it was always more of a family situation, my husband was always there ... and hence, mine maybe wasn't as direct. But it's an unacceptable issue which really needs to be addressed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Therese Madden and Thea Chaloner produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Maria Godoy adapted it for the Web\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Milk is not the unassuming refrigerator staple you may have thought it was. In fact, debates about milk touch on a host of topics — cultural, genetic, medicinal, and economic — that have been going on for centuries and continue today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR's Lulu Garcia-Navarro sat down with author Mark Kurlansky to discuss his new book, \u003cem>Milk!\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A 10,000-Year Food Fracas\u003c/em>, and unpack some of the controversies surrounding what he calls \"the most over-argued food in history.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2018/05/20180506_wesun_milk_the_most_over-argued_food_in_history.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Humans, it turns out, are unique in their preference for the dairy drink. \"In nature, we aren't meant to have milk past weaning,\" Kurlansky says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But because of a genetic aberration, many humans can process the sugars found in milk and dairy products well into adulthood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while that makes some of us unique among mammals, it doesn't mean that all humans have those genes. \"It's still only something like 40 percent of the human population that can drink milk past the age of two,\" Kurlansky told NPR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The genetic change is primarily found in white, northern European populations and their descendants. And although it may be Eurocentric to say that all humans can enjoy dairy in the same way, it hasn't stopped milk from becoming a global industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultures around the world consume milk from different animals and in different ways. From yak yogurt in Tibet to camel milk ice cream in Dubai, there's a lot to milk that goes beyond the gallon of 2 percent we find in our grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cow milk is kind of bland, and we're kind of used to bland. So if you have sheep milk or goat milk or camel milk,\" Kurlansky says, \"it has this other dimension of flavor, which is kind of nice if it doesn't shock you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of human history, drinking milk was limited to the farm. Because it spoiled so quickly, most milk was turned into products like cheese and yogurt, which could last longer for transport and trading.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until about mid-19th century with the advent of pasteurization and widespread refrigeration, that milk became the ubiquitous drink we think of it as today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But milk's popularity has come with pushback. Some wonder if we are treating our milk-producing animals humanely, or if we should even be drinking milk at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kurlansky says farmers have to balance consumer demand for more humane and organic dairy products with government subsidies that keep prices artificially low.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people will pay more for milk if it's GMO-free, or if it's organic, or if it's animal-kind,\" he says, \"but there's a catch: usually these things make milk much more expensive to produce.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Faced with the choice, most consumers still go with what's cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for whether we should even be drinking milk at all, Kurlansky says things aren't so clear. Milk can be beneficial for some — particularly those who need more calcium — but can be dangerous for others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Blanket health proclamations are always problematic,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So next time you find yourself perusing the local dairy aisle, remember that milk goes beyond the black-and-white cows dotting American dairy farms. It's much more global — and more controversial — than you may have ever realized.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>NPR's Ian Wren produced this story for digital.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\"> NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while that makes some of us unique among mammals, it doesn't mean that all humans have those genes. \"It's still only something like 40 percent of the human population that can drink milk past the age of two,\" Kurlansky told NPR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The genetic change is primarily found in white, northern European populations and their descendants. And although it may be Eurocentric to say that all humans can enjoy dairy in the same way, it hasn't stopped milk from becoming a global industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cultures around the world consume milk from different animals and in different ways. From yak yogurt in Tibet to camel milk ice cream in Dubai, there's a lot to milk that goes beyond the gallon of 2 percent we find in our grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cow milk is kind of bland, and we're kind of used to bland. So if you have sheep milk or goat milk or camel milk,\" Kurlansky says, \"it has this other dimension of flavor, which is kind of nice if it doesn't shock you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of human history, drinking milk was limited to the farm. Because it spoiled so quickly, most milk was turned into products like cheese and yogurt, which could last longer for transport and trading.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until about mid-19th century with the advent of pasteurization and widespread refrigeration, that milk became the ubiquitous drink we think of it as today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But milk's popularity has come with pushback. Some wonder if we are treating our milk-producing animals humanely, or if we should even be drinking milk at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kurlansky says farmers have to balance consumer demand for more humane and organic dairy products with government subsidies that keep prices artificially low.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people will pay more for milk if it's GMO-free, or if it's organic, or if it's animal-kind,\" he says, \"but there's a catch: usually these things make milk much more expensive to produce.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Faced with the choice, most consumers still go with what's cheaper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And as for whether we should even be drinking milk at all, Kurlansky says things aren't so clear. Milk can be beneficial for some — particularly those who need more calcium — but can be dangerous for others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Blanket health proclamations are always problematic,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So next time you find yourself perusing the local dairy aisle, remember that milk goes beyond the black-and-white cows dotting American dairy farms. It's much more global — and more controversial — than you may have ever realized.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>NPR's Ian Wren produced this story for digital.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\"> NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "First State Dinner: A Chance For Melania Trump To Put Her Stamp On The White House",
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"content": "\u003cp>Fifteen months into the Trump presidency, the first state dinner, in honor of French President Emmanuel Macron, will be a big moment for first lady Melania Trump, who has kept a lower profile than many of her predecessors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's much more than just a dinner,\" said Kate Andersen Brower, author of \u003cem>First Women: The Grace and Power of America's Modern First Ladies\u003c/em> and a forthcoming book about vice presidents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2018/04/20180423_me_first_state_dinner.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to state dinners, every choice from the china to the shape of the tables and the number of guests makes a statement that reflects the tastes of the first family, and especially the first lady. And a whole lot of people are watching. C-SPAN even provides live special coverage of some dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Laura Bush said she wasn't nervous before her own wedding but she was nervous before the first state dinner with the Mexican president,\" said Brower. \"I think it's a lot of pressure.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bush wrote about the preparations in her book \u003cem>Spoken From The Heart,\u003c/em> making the comparison to her wedding:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A state dinner is far more intricate, an elaborate display of hundreds of moving parts, from guest lists and menus, which require an advance tasting, to table seatings, arrival protocols, and choices of linens, flowers, china, and silver, even the champagnes and wines.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It went off without a hitch, the night ending with a fireworks display over the Washington Monument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Obamas' first state dinner for the Indian prime minister in November 2009 wasn't quite so flawless. The menu was prepared by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson. Jennifer Hudson provided the entertainment. The decorations were lush. But it was all overshadowed by news of gate crashers Michaele and Tareq Salahi. They weren't invited but were auditioning for the \u003cem>Real Housewives of D.C.\u003c/em> reality show and somehow made it past multiple layers of security to get into the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are cautionary tales from every administration and no one escapes,\" said Lea Berman, who was White House social secretary in the time of George W. and Laura Bush and is co-author of a book called \u003cem>Treating People Well. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first of anything and particularly the first of a state dinner after so long without having one, and this is not the first administration to wait an unusually long time to try a state dinner, makes it a little bit — the stakes are higher, let's say,\" Berman said of the Macron dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She argued the stakes should be high. Berman said this dinner in particular is important because of the growing friendship between Presidents Trump and Macron and the recent military strikes in Syria, which were conducted by both countries along with the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have the president and first lady extending not just their personal hospitality, but American hospitality, and it should reflect the best of what America has to offer,\" Berman said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berman expressed confidence that the team in the first lady's office, which includes Bush administration veterans whom she stays in touch with, will be able to pull off the dinner. But there are some things you just can't plan for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>State dinner mishaps\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was the state dinner celebrating the Bicentennial of the United States and honoring the Queen of England. President Gerald Ford began to dance with Queen Elizabeth, just as the Marine Band struck up \"The Lady Is a Tramp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"President Gerald Ford and first lady Betty Ford pose with Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip outside the North Portico of the White House on July 7, 1976.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1234\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-160x123.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-800x617.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-768x592.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-1020x787.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-1200x926.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-1180x910.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-960x740.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-240x185.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-375x289.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-520x401.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">President Gerald Ford and first lady Betty Ford pose with Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip outside the North Portico of the White House on July 7, 1976. \u003ccite>(AP)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"And afterward the social secretary Maria Downs said to the president, 'I was so embarrassed about that sir, do you think she noticed?' And he looked kind of grim and said, 'She noticed,' \" Berman said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems the Ford administration may have been star-crossed when it came to state dinners. In October 1975, Johnny Cash was supposed to provide the entertainment for a dinner honoring Egypt's Anwar Sadat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127363\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 697px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85.png\" alt=\"President Ford's remarks introducing Pearl Bailey and explaining why Johnny Cash was a no-show at the October 1975 state dinner.\" width=\"697\" height=\"397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127363\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85.png 697w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-160x91.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-240x137.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-375x214.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-520x296.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 697px) 100vw, 697px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">President Ford's remarks introducing Pearl Bailey and explaining why Johnny Cash was a no-show at the October 1975 state dinner. \u003ccite>(Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You can see from your programs, Johnny Cash was to be our featured guest tonight,\" \u003ca href=\"https://www.fordlibrarymuseum.gov/library/document/0122/1252559.pdf\">President Ford's remarks read\u003c/a>. \"Unfortunately, this will not be possible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead \u003ca href=\"http://fordlibrarymuseum.tumblr.com/post/70584508874/hello-pearl-actress-and-singer-pearl-bailey\">he introduced Pearl Bailey\u003c/a>, a Broadway performer who had provided the entertainment at another state dinner earlier that year and also \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7hLY91FU0k\">during the Nixon administration\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127364\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1040px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"President Ford watches Pearl Bailey perform in the White House Entrance Hall during a state dinner in May 1975.\" width=\"1040\" height=\"681\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127364\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85.jpg 1040w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-800x524.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-768x503.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-1020x668.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-960x629.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-240x157.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-375x246.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-520x341.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">President Ford watches Pearl Bailey perform in the White House Entrance Hall during a state dinner in May 1975. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehousehistory.org/photos/gerald-ford-watches-pearl-bailey-and-the-marine-chamber-orchestra\">Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum/NARA\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Behind the scenes there had been a mad scramble. \"At the last minute, literally they day of the event, they had to find a new entertainer,\" said Berman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First ladies put their stamp on state dinners\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every modern administration has approached state dinners differently, reflecting the tastes and styles of the first lady at the time. The Eisenhowers used tables connected end-to-end in the shape of a U. But that didn't work for the Kennedys.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127365\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1040px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Actor John Travolta dances with Princess Diana during the Reagans' state dinner in November 1985.\" width=\"1040\" height=\"705\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127365\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85.jpg 1040w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-800x542.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-768x521.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-1020x691.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-960x651.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-240x163.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-375x254.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-520x353.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Actor John Travolta dances with Princess Diana during the Reagans' state dinner in November 1985. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehousehistory.org/photos/notable-british-visitors-princess-diana-dancing\">Ronald W. Reagan Presidential Library/NARA\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Jackie Kennedy came in and said, 'Look, I want smaller cocktail tables so people can actually talk,'\" said Brower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Reagans, Clintons and Obamas had more celebrities in attendance than other administrations — though Nancy Reagan preferred small, intimate gatherings, while the Obamas went big often with the dinners held in tents on the South Lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127366\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1040px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"First lady Nancy Reagan reviews plans for the administration's first state dinner in February 1981.\" width=\"1040\" height=\"692\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127366\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85.jpg 1040w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">First lady Nancy Reagan reviews plans for the administration's first state dinner in February 1981. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehousehistory.org/photos/nancy-reagan-reviews-state-dinner-plans\">Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum/National Archives and Records Administration\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tuesday night's dinner, said Brower, will be the first chance to see how the Trumps entertain in the people's house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a statement, the White House said the first lady carefully selected all details of the dinner to \"complement and pay homage to the long-standing friendship between the United States and France.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is meant to pay tribute to American culinary traditions with \"nuances of French influences.\" It begins with a course of goat cheese gateau, tomato jam, buttermilk biscuits and greens from the White House kitchen garden. The main course includes lamb, cipollini soubise and Carolina gold rice jambalaya. To finish it off, the Macrons will be treated to a nectarine tart with crème fraîche ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/FLOTUS/status/988473303378595840\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal will be served on both the Clinton and George W. Bush china, which features a green color palette to complement the green flowers that will be featured in the dining room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There will also be more than 1,200 branches of cherry blossom, all homegrown in the United States, and more than 2,500 stems of white sweet peas and 1,000 stems of white lilac.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127355\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505.jpg\" alt=\"Dinner china is set for the first state visit of the Trump administration, in the State Dining Room of the White House on Monday.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"658\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127355\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-800x514.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-1020x655.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-960x617.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-240x154.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-375x241.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-520x334.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinner china is set for the first state visit of the Trump administration, in the State Dining Room of the White House on Monday. \u003ccite>(Al Drago/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Kennedy Center's Washington National Opera is expected to perform.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, some questions remain: Who made the final guest list? What will Melania Trump wear?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Melania I mean, God, everyone's going to be watching to see her expression and what she's wearing,\" said Brower. \"We just know nothing about her. She's such a cipher.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One possible hint: In 1999 Melania Knauss, then just dating Donald Trump, told the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/19/insider/1999-melania-trump-first-lady.html\">The New York Times\u003c/a> that if she and Trump were to wind up in the White House, she would be very traditional — \"like Betty Ford or Jackie Kennedy.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "State dinners are a chance for first ladies to express their tastes and make a statement. But historically these diplomatic dinners have had their share of mishaps.",
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"description": "State dinners are a chance for first ladies to express their tastes and make a statement. But historically these diplomatic dinners have had their share of mishaps.",
"title": "First State Dinner: A Chance For Melania Trump To Put Her Stamp On The White House | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Fifteen months into the Trump presidency, the first state dinner, in honor of French President Emmanuel Macron, will be a big moment for first lady Melania Trump, who has kept a lower profile than many of her predecessors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's much more than just a dinner,\" said Kate Andersen Brower, author of \u003cem>First Women: The Grace and Power of America's Modern First Ladies\u003c/em> and a forthcoming book about vice presidents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to state dinners, every choice from the china to the shape of the tables and the number of guests makes a statement that reflects the tastes of the first family, and especially the first lady. And a whole lot of people are watching. C-SPAN even provides live special coverage of some dinners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Laura Bush said she wasn't nervous before her own wedding but she was nervous before the first state dinner with the Mexican president,\" said Brower. \"I think it's a lot of pressure.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bush wrote about the preparations in her book \u003cem>Spoken From The Heart,\u003c/em> making the comparison to her wedding:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A state dinner is far more intricate, an elaborate display of hundreds of moving parts, from guest lists and menus, which require an advance tasting, to table seatings, arrival protocols, and choices of linens, flowers, china, and silver, even the champagnes and wines.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>It went off without a hitch, the night ending with a fireworks display over the Washington Monument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Obamas' first state dinner for the Indian prime minister in November 2009 wasn't quite so flawless. The menu was prepared by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson. Jennifer Hudson provided the entertainment. The decorations were lush. But it was all overshadowed by news of gate crashers Michaele and Tareq Salahi. They weren't invited but were auditioning for the \u003cem>Real Housewives of D.C.\u003c/em> reality show and somehow made it past multiple layers of security to get into the dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are cautionary tales from every administration and no one escapes,\" said Lea Berman, who was White House social secretary in the time of George W. and Laura Bush and is co-author of a book called \u003cem>Treating People Well. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first of anything and particularly the first of a state dinner after so long without having one, and this is not the first administration to wait an unusually long time to try a state dinner, makes it a little bit — the stakes are higher, let's say,\" Berman said of the Macron dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She argued the stakes should be high. Berman said this dinner in particular is important because of the growing friendship between Presidents Trump and Macron and the recent military strikes in Syria, which were conducted by both countries along with the U.K.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have the president and first lady extending not just their personal hospitality, but American hospitality, and it should reflect the best of what America has to offer,\" Berman said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Berman expressed confidence that the team in the first lady's office, which includes Bush administration veterans whom she stays in touch with, will be able to pull off the dinner. But there are some things you just can't plan for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>State dinner mishaps\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was the state dinner celebrating the Bicentennial of the United States and honoring the Queen of England. President Gerald Ford began to dance with Queen Elizabeth, just as the Marine Band struck up \"The Lady Is a Tramp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127362\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"President Gerald Ford and first lady Betty Ford pose with Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip outside the North Portico of the White House on July 7, 1976.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1234\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127362\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-160x123.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-800x617.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-768x592.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-1020x787.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-1200x926.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-1180x910.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-960x740.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-240x185.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-375x289.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ap_760707032_custom-6662c35cd236aa4ed8d7a4f14635b51e7ade8a2b-s1600-c85-520x401.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">President Gerald Ford and first lady Betty Ford pose with Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip outside the North Portico of the White House on July 7, 1976. \u003ccite>(AP)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"And afterward the social secretary Maria Downs said to the president, 'I was so embarrassed about that sir, do you think she noticed?' And he looked kind of grim and said, 'She noticed,' \" Berman said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems the Ford administration may have been star-crossed when it came to state dinners. In October 1975, Johnny Cash was supposed to provide the entertainment for a dinner honoring Egypt's Anwar Sadat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127363\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 697px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85.png\" alt=\"President Ford's remarks introducing Pearl Bailey and explaining why Johnny Cash was a no-show at the October 1975 state dinner.\" width=\"697\" height=\"397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127363\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85.png 697w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-160x91.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-240x137.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-375x214.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/ford-remarks_custom-e11624edafc7e3f2a99dafbe812ccd0c37d9b794-s1600-c85-520x296.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 697px) 100vw, 697px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">President Ford's remarks introducing Pearl Bailey and explaining why Johnny Cash was a no-show at the October 1975 state dinner. \u003ccite>(Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You can see from your programs, Johnny Cash was to be our featured guest tonight,\" \u003ca href=\"https://www.fordlibrarymuseum.gov/library/document/0122/1252559.pdf\">President Ford's remarks read\u003c/a>. \"Unfortunately, this will not be possible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead \u003ca href=\"http://fordlibrarymuseum.tumblr.com/post/70584508874/hello-pearl-actress-and-singer-pearl-bailey\">he introduced Pearl Bailey\u003c/a>, a Broadway performer who had provided the entertainment at another state dinner earlier that year and also \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7hLY91FU0k\">during the Nixon administration\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127364\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1040px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"President Ford watches Pearl Bailey perform in the White House Entrance Hall during a state dinner in May 1975.\" width=\"1040\" height=\"681\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127364\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85.jpg 1040w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-160x105.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-800x524.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-768x503.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-1020x668.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-960x629.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-240x157.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-375x246.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/pearl-bailey-white-house-1970_custom-e3d5d1a4feebfae814fc0c27641ffa8b6d2b5410-s1600-c85-520x341.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">President Ford watches Pearl Bailey perform in the White House Entrance Hall during a state dinner in May 1975. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehousehistory.org/photos/gerald-ford-watches-pearl-bailey-and-the-marine-chamber-orchestra\">Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum/NARA\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Behind the scenes there had been a mad scramble. \"At the last minute, literally they day of the event, they had to find a new entertainer,\" said Berman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First ladies put their stamp on state dinners\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every modern administration has approached state dinners differently, reflecting the tastes and styles of the first lady at the time. The Eisenhowers used tables connected end-to-end in the shape of a U. But that didn't work for the Kennedys.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127365\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1040px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Actor John Travolta dances with Princess Diana during the Reagans' state dinner in November 1985.\" width=\"1040\" height=\"705\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127365\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85.jpg 1040w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-160x108.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-800x542.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-768x521.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-1020x691.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-960x651.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-240x163.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-375x254.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/princess-diana-reagan-1975_custom-70f6ac3ad39ab324cec346294ac44ad995ddb127-s1600-c85-520x353.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Actor John Travolta dances with Princess Diana during the Reagans' state dinner in November 1985. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehousehistory.org/photos/notable-british-visitors-princess-diana-dancing\">Ronald W. Reagan Presidential Library/NARA\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Jackie Kennedy came in and said, 'Look, I want smaller cocktail tables so people can actually talk,'\" said Brower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Reagans, Clintons and Obamas had more celebrities in attendance than other administrations — though Nancy Reagan preferred small, intimate gatherings, while the Obamas went big often with the dinners held in tents on the South Lawn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127366\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1040px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"First lady Nancy Reagan reviews plans for the administration's first state dinner in February 1981.\" width=\"1040\" height=\"692\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127366\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85.jpg 1040w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/state_dinner_prep_reagan_custom-e9dbf65c9bb39275bdc6ba2e36c38d9a12172294-s1600-c85-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1040px) 100vw, 1040px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">First lady Nancy Reagan reviews plans for the administration's first state dinner in February 1981. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehousehistory.org/photos/nancy-reagan-reviews-state-dinner-plans\">Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum/National Archives and Records Administration\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tuesday night's dinner, said Brower, will be the first chance to see how the Trumps entertain in the people's house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a statement, the White House said the first lady carefully selected all details of the dinner to \"complement and pay homage to the long-standing friendship between the United States and France.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is meant to pay tribute to American culinary traditions with \"nuances of French influences.\" It begins with a course of goat cheese gateau, tomato jam, buttermilk biscuits and greens from the White House kitchen garden. The main course includes lamb, cipollini soubise and Carolina gold rice jambalaya. To finish it off, the Macrons will be treated to a nectarine tart with crème fraîche ice cream.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>The meal will be served on both the Clinton and George W. Bush china, which features a green color palette to complement the green flowers that will be featured in the dining room.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There will also be more than 1,200 branches of cherry blossom, all homegrown in the United States, and more than 2,500 stems of white sweet peas and 1,000 stems of white lilac.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127355\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505.jpg\" alt=\"Dinner china is set for the first state visit of the Trump administration, in the State Dining Room of the White House on Monday.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"658\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127355\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-800x514.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-1020x655.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-960x617.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-240x154.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-375x241.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/gettyimages-950490620_custom-f87390a09e9cb33acd94ad43ad4b21b22e567505-520x334.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dinner china is set for the first state visit of the Trump administration, in the State Dining Room of the White House on Monday. \u003ccite>(Al Drago/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Kennedy Center's Washington National Opera is expected to perform.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, some questions remain: Who made the final guest list? What will Melania Trump wear?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Melania I mean, God, everyone's going to be watching to see her expression and what she's wearing,\" said Brower. \"We just know nothing about her. She's such a cipher.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One possible hint: In 1999 Melania Knauss, then just dating Donald Trump, told the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/01/19/insider/1999-melania-trump-first-lady.html\">The New York Times\u003c/a> that if she and Trump were to wind up in the White House, she would be very traditional — \"like Betty Ford or Jackie Kennedy.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Edible Oddities: David Bowie-Inspired Menus Reflect His Many Personas",
"title": "Edible Oddities: David Bowie-Inspired Menus Reflect His Many Personas",
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"content": "\u003cp>Matthew Yokobosky finds food inspirational — which is perhaps not entirely surprising, considering that as an art curator, it's his job to make connections between seemingly disparate objects, just as a chef creates a cohesive dish out of contrasting ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when New York City restaurateur and chef Saul Bolton suggested developing a themed menu and a series of dinners around the \u003cem>David Bowie Is\u003c/em> exhibition now on view at the Brooklyn Museum, Yokobosky was intrigued.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I was knee-deep in research for the show,\" says Yokobosky, who selected 100 additional items for the collection's final stop in Brooklyn. The exhibition has been traveling the world since starting its journey at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2013. \"I had just added a menu that Bowie drew by hand for a New Year's dinner in Berlin in 1978, so it was really perfect timing when Saul suggested the idea. And we actually know a lot about some of Bowie's favorite foods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127294\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Bowie's "Tokyo Pop" vinyl bodysuit that Yamamoto Kansai designed for his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1057\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127294\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-800x529.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-768x507.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-1020x674.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-1200x793.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-1180x780.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-960x634.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-375x248.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-520x344.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bowie's \"Tokyo Pop\" vinyl bodysuit that Yamamoto Kansai designed for his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973. \u003ccite>(Bowie's \"Tokyo Pop\" vinyl bodysuit that Yamamoto Kansai designed for his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973. Jonathan Dorado/Brooklyn Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bowie-inspired food and drinks have popped up on menus in several cities along the world tour, including a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/fwx/food/rating-david-bowie-menu-museum-contemporary-art-chicago\">smoked tofu and grapefruit salad\u003c/a> — dubbed \"Modern Love\" — at the cafe in Chicago's Museum of Contemporary Art. Tokyo, always ahead of the curve, was creating \u003ca href=\"https://soranews24.com/2013/03/19/ginzas-david-bowie-cafe-now-open-and-in-full-funky-swing/\">Bowie pop-up pubs\u003c/a> long before the artist's death in January of 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visitors to the Brooklyn Museum's The Norm café will find a menu that offers everything from a playful \"Diamond Dogfish and Chips\" to shepherd's pie — which Bowie's wife, model and entrepreneur Iman, \u003ca href=\"http://people.com/archive/domestic-goddess-vol-64-no-15/\">learned to make for him\u003c/a> — to a dark chocolate cake that pays homage to \u003cem>Black Star, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/therecord/2016/01/11/462660569/review-david-bowies-blackstar-is-adventurous-to-the-end\">Bowie's final album\u003c/a> that was released two days before his death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127295\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85.jpeg\" alt=\"The Norm at Brooklyn Museum's spring and summer menu draws inspiration for "Diamond Dogfish and Chips" from the David Bowie is exhibit.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1016\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127295\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85.jpeg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-160x102.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-800x508.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-768x488.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-1020x648.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-1200x762.jpeg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-1180x749.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-960x610.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-240x152.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-375x238.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-520x330.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Norm at Brooklyn Museum's spring and summer menu draws inspiration for \"Diamond Dogfish and Chips\" from the David Bowie is exhibit. \u003ccite>(Ben Hider/Great Performances)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Adding a taste element to the visitor experience made sense to both Yokobosky and Bolton, because the Bowie exhibition is focused on immersing viewers in the sights and sounds of the artist's five-decade career through music, video and original costumes. There's also a seemingly endless array of hand-written notes, drawings, photographs and memorabilia drawn from some 75,000 items in the David Bowie Archive (said to be stored in a secret location somewhere in New York City). And Bolton, a self-described Bowie fan, was thrilled that Yokobosky was game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually what we try to do at The Norm is to reflect the cultural diversity of Brooklyn itself,\" says Bolton, a Michelin-starred chef. \"But, within the context of the Bowie exhibit, we were able to play into different elements, whether it's a song interpreted through food, or the culinary influences of cities that were important in his life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides Bowie-cizing the cafe's seasonal menu at The Norm, Bolton and Yokobosky also decided to create a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thenormbkm.com/experiences/\">series of four dinners\u003c/a> between April and July this year that would allow for a deeper dive into Bowie's life and art, using food as a vehicle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For inspiration, Bolton turned to four cities that had a major impact on Bowie's career: London, Bowie's birthplace and where he began his journey as a multidimensional artist; Berlin, where Bowie took sanctuary to kick a drug habit and ended up producing three of his most innovative albums (\u003cem>Low\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Heroes\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Lodger\u003c/em>); Philadelphia, where Bowie recorded the hit \"Young Americans\" with a young Luther Vandross; and Tokyo, where Bowie traveled early in his career, forming longtime collaborations with Japanese fashion designer Kansai Yamamoto and photographer Masayoshi Sukita (whose photographs are currently featured at The Norm) .\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm going to give a 15-minute overview at the start of the dinner and talk a bit about the city that the guests are going to eat food from,\" says Yokobosky. \"I'm hoping that it's like a moment of transportation to another place for a while. So you'll be thinking about Berlin in the 1970s, sitting in a cafe with Iggy Pop, eating this delicious food, and getting a glimpse into that experience.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_09_ps11-b1154e1ce9d6fc3b3c8ea3b28eaa6485f8dc1ee5-1-e1524510575268.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_09_ps11-b1154e1ce9d6fc3b3c8ea3b28eaa6485f8dc1ee5-1-e1524510575268.jpg\" alt=\"Quilted suits designed for Bowie's Ziggy Stardust tour, 1972.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127288\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quilted suits designed for Bowie's Ziggy Stardust tour, 1972. \u003ccite>(Jonathan Dorado/Brooklyn Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/nprberlinblog/2011/10/05/141048303/currywurst-the-evolution-of-berlins-popular-street-food\">Currywurst\u003c/a> and spaetzle with fried onions will be on the menu for Berlin, while Bolton was influenced by London's Caribbean community to create a West Indian conch salad. For Philadelphia, Bolton simply couldn't resist putting his decidedly upscale spin on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5573992\">Philly cheesesteak\u003c/a>. A Japanese \u003ca href=\"http://www.apple.com\">\u003c/a> Taiyaki-style fish-shaped cake will be Americanized with a Twinkie-inspired filling instead of the more traditional red bean paste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm pretty stoked about these menus,\" says Bolton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a bar just a few blocks away, mixologists Nicole Kanev and Wesley Straton were also pretty stoked to collaborate with the museum on creating \u003ca href=\"http://www.bkwnyc.com/beers-cocktails/\">a series of cocktails\u003c/a> for the spring menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bkwnyc.com/\">BKW by Brooklyn Winery\u003c/a>. Deciding where to start, however, wasn't all that easy, says BKW general manager Adam Cornelius: \"The biggest challenge was figuring out what to base the cocktails on, because David Bowie was so prolific in so many ways. In the end, the obvious answer was to focus on the personas that he created — Ziggy Stardust, the Thin White Duke, Major Tom. Then we spent four months reading every interview we could find and watching documentaries looking for inspiration.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Kanev, \"When we create cocktails, we almost always come up with the recipe first and then name the cocktails. This time we started with a name and worked backwards to figure out the flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it's easy to focus on the fun garnishes that help give the seven cocktails undeniable Bowie appeal — such as the lightning bolt stenciled onto the egg white foam topping on the Aperol-laced \"Aladdin Sane\" cocktail — it's the ingredients inside the glass that tell the real story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"Jareth The Goblin King\" cocktail, for instance, seems to be a simple riff off a classic martini at first glance, but reveals hidden depths upon closer examination. Kanev and Straton focused on two elements from \u003cem>Labyrinth\u003c/em>, the 1986 film in which Bowie plays the menacing, yet lovelorn, monarch: peaches (used to drug innocent protagonist Sarah) and crystal orbs (used by Jareth to create illusions and show dreams).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Wesley wanted to do a clear drink,\" says Kanev, \"and peach is prominent in the movie, so we wanted that in there as well. But peach can be cloying — we didn't want something that tasted like a peach Bellini.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruit-forward Spanish barrel-aged gin, combined with a dry English gin and Blanc vermouth, needed just a touch of peach bitters to mimic the film's subtle undertone of unrequited love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bowie's reported \u003ca href=\"https://dangerousminds.net/comments/red_peppers_milk_cocaine_david_bowie-themed_menu\">cocaine-fueled diet of red peppers and milk\u003c/a> in the mid-70s inspired the \"Thin White Duke,\" a spin on milk punch made with brandy, chile liqueur, and black pepper honey. Kanev and Straton created a variation on the \"French 75\" for the \"Ziggy Stardust,\" going to the trouble to make clarified lemon juice so that the wine-based drink would sparkle brightly in the flute without any cloudy residue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We knew we'd have a lot of diehard Bowie fans here,\" Kanev says, \"so we had to get it right.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/04/13/520000573/kristenhartke.com\">\u003cem>Kristen Hartke\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Ziggy Stardust and the Thin White Duke are just two of the characters David Bowie created for himself. The innovator explored music and identity, and his art exhibition inspires chefs and mixologists.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Matthew Yokobosky finds food inspirational — which is perhaps not entirely surprising, considering that as an art curator, it's his job to make connections between seemingly disparate objects, just as a chef creates a cohesive dish out of contrasting ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So when New York City restaurateur and chef Saul Bolton suggested developing a themed menu and a series of dinners around the \u003cem>David Bowie Is\u003c/em> exhibition now on view at the Brooklyn Museum, Yokobosky was intrigued.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I was knee-deep in research for the show,\" says Yokobosky, who selected 100 additional items for the collection's final stop in Brooklyn. The exhibition has been traveling the world since starting its journey at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2013. \"I had just added a menu that Bowie drew by hand for a New Year's dinner in Berlin in 1978, so it was really perfect timing when Saul suggested the idea. And we actually know a lot about some of Bowie's favorite foods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127294\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Bowie's "Tokyo Pop" vinyl bodysuit that Yamamoto Kansai designed for his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1057\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127294\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-800x529.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-768x507.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-1020x674.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-1200x793.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-1180x780.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-960x634.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-240x159.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-375x248.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_01_ps11_custom-851a937476c04bb5ef206eec4f1a9582b13d5bde-s1600-c85-520x344.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bowie's \"Tokyo Pop\" vinyl bodysuit that Yamamoto Kansai designed for his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973. \u003ccite>(Bowie's \"Tokyo Pop\" vinyl bodysuit that Yamamoto Kansai designed for his Aladdin Sane tour in 1973. Jonathan Dorado/Brooklyn Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bowie-inspired food and drinks have popped up on menus in several cities along the world tour, including a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/fwx/food/rating-david-bowie-menu-museum-contemporary-art-chicago\">smoked tofu and grapefruit salad\u003c/a> — dubbed \"Modern Love\" — at the cafe in Chicago's Museum of Contemporary Art. Tokyo, always ahead of the curve, was creating \u003ca href=\"https://soranews24.com/2013/03/19/ginzas-david-bowie-cafe-now-open-and-in-full-funky-swing/\">Bowie pop-up pubs\u003c/a> long before the artist's death in January of 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Visitors to the Brooklyn Museum's The Norm café will find a menu that offers everything from a playful \"Diamond Dogfish and Chips\" to shepherd's pie — which Bowie's wife, model and entrepreneur Iman, \u003ca href=\"http://people.com/archive/domestic-goddess-vol-64-no-15/\">learned to make for him\u003c/a> — to a dark chocolate cake that pays homage to \u003cem>Black Star, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/therecord/2016/01/11/462660569/review-david-bowies-blackstar-is-adventurous-to-the-end\">Bowie's final album\u003c/a> that was released two days before his death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127295\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85.jpeg\" alt=\"The Norm at Brooklyn Museum's spring and summer menu draws inspiration for "Diamond Dogfish and Chips" from the David Bowie is exhibit.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1016\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127295\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85.jpeg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-160x102.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-800x508.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-768x488.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-1020x648.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-1200x762.jpeg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-1180x749.jpeg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-960x610.jpeg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-240x152.jpeg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-375x238.jpeg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/fish-and-chips_custom-ff31699e00b0674b6889da9a45c6cfa48f3966d7-s1600-c85-520x330.jpeg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Norm at Brooklyn Museum's spring and summer menu draws inspiration for \"Diamond Dogfish and Chips\" from the David Bowie is exhibit. \u003ccite>(Ben Hider/Great Performances)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Adding a taste element to the visitor experience made sense to both Yokobosky and Bolton, because the Bowie exhibition is focused on immersing viewers in the sights and sounds of the artist's five-decade career through music, video and original costumes. There's also a seemingly endless array of hand-written notes, drawings, photographs and memorabilia drawn from some 75,000 items in the David Bowie Archive (said to be stored in a secret location somewhere in New York City). And Bolton, a self-described Bowie fan, was thrilled that Yokobosky was game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually what we try to do at The Norm is to reflect the cultural diversity of Brooklyn itself,\" says Bolton, a Michelin-starred chef. \"But, within the context of the Bowie exhibit, we were able to play into different elements, whether it's a song interpreted through food, or the culinary influences of cities that were important in his life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides Bowie-cizing the cafe's seasonal menu at The Norm, Bolton and Yokobosky also decided to create a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thenormbkm.com/experiences/\">series of four dinners\u003c/a> between April and July this year that would allow for a deeper dive into Bowie's life and art, using food as a vehicle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For inspiration, Bolton turned to four cities that had a major impact on Bowie's career: London, Bowie's birthplace and where he began his journey as a multidimensional artist; Berlin, where Bowie took sanctuary to kick a drug habit and ended up producing three of his most innovative albums (\u003cem>Low\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Heroes\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>Lodger\u003c/em>); Philadelphia, where Bowie recorded the hit \"Young Americans\" with a young Luther Vandross; and Tokyo, where Bowie traveled early in his career, forming longtime collaborations with Japanese fashion designer Kansai Yamamoto and photographer Masayoshi Sukita (whose photographs are currently featured at The Norm) .\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm going to give a 15-minute overview at the start of the dinner and talk a bit about the city that the guests are going to eat food from,\" says Yokobosky. \"I'm hoping that it's like a moment of transportation to another place for a while. So you'll be thinking about Berlin in the 1970s, sitting in a cafe with Iggy Pop, eating this delicious food, and getting a glimpse into that experience.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_09_ps11-b1154e1ce9d6fc3b3c8ea3b28eaa6485f8dc1ee5-1-e1524510575268.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/dig_e_2018_david_bowie_is_09_ps11-b1154e1ce9d6fc3b3c8ea3b28eaa6485f8dc1ee5-1-e1524510575268.jpg\" alt=\"Quilted suits designed for Bowie's Ziggy Stardust tour, 1972.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-127288\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quilted suits designed for Bowie's Ziggy Stardust tour, 1972. \u003ccite>(Jonathan Dorado/Brooklyn Museum)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/nprberlinblog/2011/10/05/141048303/currywurst-the-evolution-of-berlins-popular-street-food\">Currywurst\u003c/a> and spaetzle with fried onions will be on the menu for Berlin, while Bolton was influenced by London's Caribbean community to create a West Indian conch salad. For Philadelphia, Bolton simply couldn't resist putting his decidedly upscale spin on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=5573992\">Philly cheesesteak\u003c/a>. A Japanese \u003ca href=\"http://www.apple.com\">\u003c/a> Taiyaki-style fish-shaped cake will be Americanized with a Twinkie-inspired filling instead of the more traditional red bean paste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm pretty stoked about these menus,\" says Bolton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a bar just a few blocks away, mixologists Nicole Kanev and Wesley Straton were also pretty stoked to collaborate with the museum on creating \u003ca href=\"http://www.bkwnyc.com/beers-cocktails/\">a series of cocktails\u003c/a> for the spring menu at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bkwnyc.com/\">BKW by Brooklyn Winery\u003c/a>. Deciding where to start, however, wasn't all that easy, says BKW general manager Adam Cornelius: \"The biggest challenge was figuring out what to base the cocktails on, because David Bowie was so prolific in so many ways. In the end, the obvious answer was to focus on the personas that he created — Ziggy Stardust, the Thin White Duke, Major Tom. Then we spent four months reading every interview we could find and watching documentaries looking for inspiration.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Kanev, \"When we create cocktails, we almost always come up with the recipe first and then name the cocktails. This time we started with a name and worked backwards to figure out the flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it's easy to focus on the fun garnishes that help give the seven cocktails undeniable Bowie appeal — such as the lightning bolt stenciled onto the egg white foam topping on the Aperol-laced \"Aladdin Sane\" cocktail — it's the ingredients inside the glass that tell the real story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \"Jareth The Goblin King\" cocktail, for instance, seems to be a simple riff off a classic martini at first glance, but reveals hidden depths upon closer examination. Kanev and Straton focused on two elements from \u003cem>Labyrinth\u003c/em>, the 1986 film in which Bowie plays the menacing, yet lovelorn, monarch: peaches (used to drug innocent protagonist Sarah) and crystal orbs (used by Jareth to create illusions and show dreams).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Wesley wanted to do a clear drink,\" says Kanev, \"and peach is prominent in the movie, so we wanted that in there as well. But peach can be cloying — we didn't want something that tasted like a peach Bellini.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruit-forward Spanish barrel-aged gin, combined with a dry English gin and Blanc vermouth, needed just a touch of peach bitters to mimic the film's subtle undertone of unrequited love.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bowie's reported \u003ca href=\"https://dangerousminds.net/comments/red_peppers_milk_cocaine_david_bowie-themed_menu\">cocaine-fueled diet of red peppers and milk\u003c/a> in the mid-70s inspired the \"Thin White Duke,\" a spin on milk punch made with brandy, chile liqueur, and black pepper honey. Kanev and Straton created a variation on the \"French 75\" for the \"Ziggy Stardust,\" going to the trouble to make clarified lemon juice so that the wine-based drink would sparkle brightly in the flute without any cloudy residue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We knew we'd have a lot of diehard Bowie fans here,\" Kanev says, \"so we had to get it right.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/04/13/520000573/kristenhartke.com\">\u003cem>Kristen Hartke\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "NECCO-Mania: Fans Stock Up On Chalky Wafers In Case Candy Company Folds",
"title": "NECCO-Mania: Fans Stock Up On Chalky Wafers In Case Candy Company Folds",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>NECCO wafers are a polarizing candy. Some online haters have compared the brittle sugar disks to chalk, or antacid tablets. But now, the company that makes them could soon close shop — and that's brought out some of the candies' very loyal fans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Sugar Heaven in Somerville, Mass., David Sapers points out that there is a lot more NECCO on his shelves than just those controversial wafers. NECCO buttons and NECCO Sky Bars share shelf space with the classic wafers at his store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Also NECCO makes things like Squirrel Nut Zippers, Mary Janes, Slap Stix. And obviously during Valentine's they're big with their ... conversation hearts,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/04/20180411_atc_not_my_necco_fans_buying_up_chalky_wafers_in_case_candy_company_folds.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NECCO is an acronym for the New England Confectionery Co., which is in financial trouble. If its leaders can't find a buyer by early May, the company says it will have to shut down, laying off hundreds of workers at its factory in Revere, Mass. The company didn't respond to requests for an interview. But at Sugar Heaven, Sapers is getting ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just ordered 10 cases of [NECCO's products] yesterday, which were delivered on Thursday. So I did that because first of all, they don't go bad. They're going to last for a while, and just in case something happens, we have it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers Inge Nakel and Michelle Scannell buy some candy, including a roll of NECCO wafers. The classic roll has an incongruous mix of flavors, including orange, licorice and clove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the chocolate ones,\" says Nakel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can buy a whole roll of chocolate. That's the best thing in the entire world,\" Scannell says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know what's best, is their conversation hearts,\" says Nakel. Scannell agrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those candy hearts with little amorous messages on them are a Valentine's Day staple, and Sapers says Sugar Heaven will buy up as many as it can if it looks like NECCO won't survive. And he is not the only one stocking up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126734\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1864px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126734\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2.jpg\" alt=\"NECCO candies for sale at Sugar Heaven in Somerville, Mass. David Sapers says Sugar Heaven will buy up as many as it can if it looks like NECCO won't survive.\" width=\"1864\" height=\"1397\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2.jpg 1864w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1864px) 100vw, 1864px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">NECCO candies for sale at Sugar Heaven in Somerville, Mass. David Sapers says Sugar Heaven will buy up as many as it can if it looks like NECCO won't survive. \u003ccite>(Craig LeMoult)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Today alone we probably sold 30 cases. We're selling a lot,\" says Jon Prince, who runs the online retailer Candyfavorites.com. He says sales of NECCO wafers have spiked. One caller wanted to buy his whole inventory, but he is limiting the size of each sale. \"And the person actually started to cry and they said they couldn't imagine a world without their NECCO wafers,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NECCO traces its roots back to 1847, when the Chase brothers started making candy. It wasn't until a merger in 1901 that the firm officially became the New England Confectionary Co.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famous wafers are memorialized by a small sculpture in a park in Cambridge, Mass., near where the company's factory once stood. The metal sculpture depicts a paper bag, with NECCO wafers spilling out of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://twitter.com/clemoult/status/984068787262623749\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kelly Haugh, who works in the building next to the sculpture, is a huge fan of the candy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My mother-in-law, like, probably three years ago, found out that I was obsessed with NECCO wafers and started just buying them for me,\" Haugh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Christmas, her stocking is full of them. \"So I think I liked them a whole lot more when I didn't have a cabinet full of them. But now I'm glad I have my stash,\" Haugh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She realizes not everyone is a fan. Its flavor and texture can be pretty controversial. \"They're definitely not a normal thing for people to love. It's like people say they're chalky or whatever,\" Haugh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But standing near the statue, Joey Barbosa tried them for the first time and had a more positive reaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mmmm. They're very good. Crunchy, tasty. Pretty much it,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another NECCO fan, Spencer Ordway, is hoarding wafers, but not because of their tasty crunch. He runs a sleepaway camp in Maine, and for more than 70 years, at an end-of-summer carnival, campers have used NECCO wafers as a currency to play games and buy prizes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had so many alumni and current staff contacting me today saying, 'What are we going to do? How can we save enough NECCO wafers to, uh, cover us for years to come?' \" Ordway says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So he went online and bought enough to keep the carnival funded for the next few years. And he says the camp's stash is safe, since he is not likely to be raiding it anytime soon. \"I mean, it is really like chewing on chalk.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, he is still hoping the company can pull through somehow, so NECCO wafers — and the company's other candies — will be available for generations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wgbh.org/995/\">WGBH\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>NECCO wafers are a polarizing candy. Some online haters have compared the brittle sugar disks to chalk, or antacid tablets. But now, the company that makes them could soon close shop — and that's brought out some of the candies' very loyal fans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Sugar Heaven in Somerville, Mass., David Sapers points out that there is a lot more NECCO on his shelves than just those controversial wafers. NECCO buttons and NECCO Sky Bars share shelf space with the classic wafers at his store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Also NECCO makes things like Squirrel Nut Zippers, Mary Janes, Slap Stix. And obviously during Valentine's they're big with their ... conversation hearts,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NECCO is an acronym for the New England Confectionery Co., which is in financial trouble. If its leaders can't find a buyer by early May, the company says it will have to shut down, laying off hundreds of workers at its factory in Revere, Mass. The company didn't respond to requests for an interview. But at Sugar Heaven, Sapers is getting ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I just ordered 10 cases of [NECCO's products] yesterday, which were delivered on Thursday. So I did that because first of all, they don't go bad. They're going to last for a while, and just in case something happens, we have it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers Inge Nakel and Michelle Scannell buy some candy, including a roll of NECCO wafers. The classic roll has an incongruous mix of flavors, including orange, licorice and clove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the chocolate ones,\" says Nakel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can buy a whole roll of chocolate. That's the best thing in the entire world,\" Scannell says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know what's best, is their conversation hearts,\" says Nakel. Scannell agrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those candy hearts with little amorous messages on them are a Valentine's Day staple, and Sapers says Sugar Heaven will buy up as many as it can if it looks like NECCO won't survive. And he is not the only one stocking up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_126734\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1864px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-126734\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2.jpg\" alt=\"NECCO candies for sale at Sugar Heaven in Somerville, Mass. David Sapers says Sugar Heaven will buy up as many as it can if it looks like NECCO won't survive.\" width=\"1864\" height=\"1397\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2.jpg 1864w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-960x719.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/04/necco-01-e2104ca10f2a2b0e718675d502afdbd10f75afc2-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1864px) 100vw, 1864px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">NECCO candies for sale at Sugar Heaven in Somerville, Mass. David Sapers says Sugar Heaven will buy up as many as it can if it looks like NECCO won't survive. \u003ccite>(Craig LeMoult)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Today alone we probably sold 30 cases. We're selling a lot,\" says Jon Prince, who runs the online retailer Candyfavorites.com. He says sales of NECCO wafers have spiked. One caller wanted to buy his whole inventory, but he is limiting the size of each sale. \"And the person actually started to cry and they said they couldn't imagine a world without their NECCO wafers,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NECCO traces its roots back to 1847, when the Chase brothers started making candy. It wasn't until a merger in 1901 that the firm officially became the New England Confectionary Co.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famous wafers are memorialized by a small sculpture in a park in Cambridge, Mass., near where the company's factory once stood. The metal sculpture depicts a paper bag, with NECCO wafers spilling out of it.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\n\u003cp>Kelly Haugh, who works in the building next to the sculpture, is a huge fan of the candy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My mother-in-law, like, probably three years ago, found out that I was obsessed with NECCO wafers and started just buying them for me,\" Haugh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Christmas, her stocking is full of them. \"So I think I liked them a whole lot more when I didn't have a cabinet full of them. But now I'm glad I have my stash,\" Haugh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She realizes not everyone is a fan. Its flavor and texture can be pretty controversial. \"They're definitely not a normal thing for people to love. It's like people say they're chalky or whatever,\" Haugh says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But standing near the statue, Joey Barbosa tried them for the first time and had a more positive reaction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mmmm. They're very good. Crunchy, tasty. Pretty much it,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another NECCO fan, Spencer Ordway, is hoarding wafers, but not because of their tasty crunch. He runs a sleepaway camp in Maine, and for more than 70 years, at an end-of-summer carnival, campers have used NECCO wafers as a currency to play games and buy prizes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I had so many alumni and current staff contacting me today saying, 'What are we going to do? How can we save enough NECCO wafers to, uh, cover us for years to come?' \" Ordway says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So he went online and bought enough to keep the carnival funded for the next few years. And he says the camp's stash is safe, since he is not likely to be raiding it anytime soon. \"I mean, it is really like chewing on chalk.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even so, he is still hoping the company can pull through somehow, so NECCO wafers — and the company's other candies — will be available for generations to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wgbh.org/995/\">WGBH\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "For St. Patrick's Day, A True Tale Of 8 Sailors Saved By Guinness",
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"content": "\u003cp>If you're picking up a glass of Guinness this St. Patrick's Day, savor it while pondering this story from 1917, when Ireland's famous stout was cause for true celebration: It saved lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strange tale takes place in the Irish Sea toward the end of World War I. Besides the traditional dangers of crossing this busy body of water in a small craft, the years 1914 to 1918 featured the additional danger of German submarines, which targeted all enemy vessels (not just military ones) and sunk many.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the challenge that Guinness steamships, with cargo full of stout, faced every day crossing the Irish Sea from Dublin to their destination, Liverpool, in the northwest of the United Kingdom. The trip was about 135 miles and took most of a day, depending on the weather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The W.M. Barkley was the pride of the Guinness fleet. Guinness bought it from Belfast shipbuilder John Kelly & Sons in 1913, just a year before the war erupted. Then, because of the conflict, the ship was requisitioned by the British Admiralty for the war effort. (Ireland was still part of the U.K. at this time, so it was a legal act of government.) By 1917, the ship was deemed unsuitable for its wartime mission and returned to Guinness for commercial use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Oct. 12, 1917, the Barkley set off from Dublin on its fateful trip to Liverpool, with its cargo of stout and a crew of 13. Nearly three hours into its journey, disaster struck: A torpedo from the German UC-75 submarine hit the ship and split it in two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crew, shocked and jolted, went scurrying for a lifeboat. As the story goes, the ship's cook, Thomas McGlue, had been making a cup of tea when the impact of the torpedo tossed the hot water, scalding his arm. By the time he got to the lifeboat, the sun had set and the ship was sinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Barkley was doing her best to go down, but the [beer] barrels were fighting their way up through the hatches, and that kept us afloat a bit longer,\" McGlue told the \u003ca href=\"http://www.irishships.com/guinness_boats.html#THE%20SINKING%20OF%20THE%20S.S.W.M.BARKLEY\">Guinness HARP magazine\u003c/a> in 1964. \"In fact, it's the reason any of us got out of there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The floating barrels of stout in the cargo hold made it possible for eight of the 13 souls aboard to escape into the night on a lifeboat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now — away from the sinking ship — the surviving crew was questioned by the captain of the German submarine about the sunken boat's identity. The German captain checked the Barkley off his \"hit list\" and bid the sunken ship's crew good night, pointing them in the general direction of the Irish coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After rowing awhile, they set down the life boat's anchor and shouted all night for rescue. Around five o'clock the next morning, they were rescued by a passing ship and ferried back to Dublin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Torpedo attacks in the Irish Sea were so frequent at the time that when the crew went to report their ordeal to government officials at the Custom House, they waited three hours to be interviewed. Eventually, they gave up waiting and went to the Guinness brewery instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, the superintendent gave them a swig of brandy — even Guinness employees recognize that some situations merit stronger stuff — and sent them home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The remains of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.infomar.ie/data/Shipwrecks/Box50/pdfs/WMBarkley_Final.pdf\">W.M. Barkley\u003c/a> now rest on the seafloor about 16 miles east of Dublin Port, at a depth of about 180 feet. Broken in two, they show little evidence of the deadly drama that unfolded on that October night in 1917.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The stout barrels held in its cargo washed up on local shores for weeks after the ship sank. Those barrels were the unexpected heroes in a drama that genuinely allowed the survivors to state, with a straight face, that, yes, Guinness had actually saved their lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org/cognoscenti/2018/03/16/st-patricks-day-peter-moloney\">\u003cem>story first appeared\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> in Cognoscenti, member station WBUR's ideas and opinion page.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A native of Ireland, Peter Moloney teaches globalization at Boston College. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org\">WBUR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>If you're picking up a glass of Guinness this St. Patrick's Day, savor it while pondering this story from 1917, when Ireland's famous stout was cause for true celebration: It saved lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The strange tale takes place in the Irish Sea toward the end of World War I. Besides the traditional dangers of crossing this busy body of water in a small craft, the years 1914 to 1918 featured the additional danger of German submarines, which targeted all enemy vessels (not just military ones) and sunk many.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the challenge that Guinness steamships, with cargo full of stout, faced every day crossing the Irish Sea from Dublin to their destination, Liverpool, in the northwest of the United Kingdom. The trip was about 135 miles and took most of a day, depending on the weather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The W.M. Barkley was the pride of the Guinness fleet. Guinness bought it from Belfast shipbuilder John Kelly & Sons in 1913, just a year before the war erupted. Then, because of the conflict, the ship was requisitioned by the British Admiralty for the war effort. (Ireland was still part of the U.K. at this time, so it was a legal act of government.) By 1917, the ship was deemed unsuitable for its wartime mission and returned to Guinness for commercial use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Oct. 12, 1917, the Barkley set off from Dublin on its fateful trip to Liverpool, with its cargo of stout and a crew of 13. Nearly three hours into its journey, disaster struck: A torpedo from the German UC-75 submarine hit the ship and split it in two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The crew, shocked and jolted, went scurrying for a lifeboat. As the story goes, the ship's cook, Thomas McGlue, had been making a cup of tea when the impact of the torpedo tossed the hot water, scalding his arm. By the time he got to the lifeboat, the sun had set and the ship was sinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Barkley was doing her best to go down, but the [beer] barrels were fighting their way up through the hatches, and that kept us afloat a bit longer,\" McGlue told the \u003ca href=\"http://www.irishships.com/guinness_boats.html#THE%20SINKING%20OF%20THE%20S.S.W.M.BARKLEY\">Guinness HARP magazine\u003c/a> in 1964. \"In fact, it's the reason any of us got out of there.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The floating barrels of stout in the cargo hold made it possible for eight of the 13 souls aboard to escape into the night on a lifeboat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now — away from the sinking ship — the surviving crew was questioned by the captain of the German submarine about the sunken boat's identity. The German captain checked the Barkley off his \"hit list\" and bid the sunken ship's crew good night, pointing them in the general direction of the Irish coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After rowing awhile, they set down the life boat's anchor and shouted all night for rescue. Around five o'clock the next morning, they were rescued by a passing ship and ferried back to Dublin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Torpedo attacks in the Irish Sea were so frequent at the time that when the crew went to report their ordeal to government officials at the Custom House, they waited three hours to be interviewed. Eventually, they gave up waiting and went to the Guinness brewery instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, the superintendent gave them a swig of brandy — even Guinness employees recognize that some situations merit stronger stuff — and sent them home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The remains of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.infomar.ie/data/Shipwrecks/Box50/pdfs/WMBarkley_Final.pdf\">W.M. Barkley\u003c/a> now rest on the seafloor about 16 miles east of Dublin Port, at a depth of about 180 feet. Broken in two, they show little evidence of the deadly drama that unfolded on that October night in 1917.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The stout barrels held in its cargo washed up on local shores for weeks after the ship sank. Those barrels were the unexpected heroes in a drama that genuinely allowed the survivors to state, with a straight face, that, yes, Guinness had actually saved their lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org/cognoscenti/2018/03/16/st-patricks-day-peter-moloney\">\u003cem>story first appeared\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> in Cognoscenti, member station WBUR's ideas and opinion page.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A native of Ireland, Peter Moloney teaches globalization at Boston College. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.wbur.org\">WBUR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "On The Road To Women's Rights, Susan B. Anthony Stomached Plenty Of Bad Food",
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"content": "\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125505\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1744px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855.png\" alt=\"Public relations portrait of Susan B. Anthony as used in the History of Woman Suffrage by Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Volume I, published in 1881.\" width=\"1744\" height=\"1873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125505\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855.png 1744w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-160x172.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-800x859.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-768x825.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-1020x1095.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-1180x1267.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-960x1031.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-240x258.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-375x403.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-520x558.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1744px) 100vw, 1744px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Public relations portrait of Susan B. Anthony as used in the History of Woman Suffrage by Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Volume I, published in 1881. \u003ccite>(By Engraved by G.E. Perine & Co., NY [Public domain], \u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Susan_B_Anthony_c1855.png\">via Wikimedia Commons\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She was hanged in effigy and mocked in cartoons; laughed at by Congress for demanding equal rights for women and fined for casting her \"illegal\" vote in 1872; shouted down at public meetings and ridiculed in the press by the upright and uptight columnists of the day. That Susan B. Anthony, champion of the women's movement in the U.S., had to suffer these ignominies is well known.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Less well known is the grueling physical hardship she endured in her long and tireless quest to get women the right to vote. For 45 years, Anthony traveled relentlessly, giving close to a hundred anti-slavery and woman's suffrage speeches a year. This meant that she quite literally lived on the road – travelling through snowstorms and blizzards by train, wagon, boat, skiff and sleigh. She stumped her way through New York, Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Nevada, Oregon, Washington, California and even – against the advice of other suffragists – \"polygamous Utah.\" Often the only woman in the room, she spoke at any public venue that opened its doors to her – from African-American churches and saloons to teachers' institutes, railroad depots, abandoned barracks and tobacco factories. Once, she even lectured from atop a lumber wagon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The journeys were punishing and the reception, while sometimes warm and encouraging, was often apathetic, sullen or viciously combative. On the eve of the Civil War, when the national mood was fissile, rotten eggs were lobbed at the stage and cayenne pepper flung on the stove to disrupt the meeting. Implacable, Anthony stood her ground. But one can well imagine how much she and her companions longed for a hot meal and a clean bed after these brutal encounters. In most cases, however, they went back to a dirty hotel and terrible food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most of the food served them was green with soda or floating in grease and the hotels were infested with bedbugs,\" writes her biographer Alma Lutz in \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20439/20439-h/20439-h.htm\">\u003cem>Susan B. Anthony: Rebel, Crusader, Humanitarian\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Susan wrote her family of sleepless nights and of picking the 'tormentors' out of their bonnets and the ruffles of their dresses.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>One South Dakota hotel served \"sour bread, muddy coffee and stewed green grapes.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>In others they were faced with unclean water, straw pallets and coffee without cream or milk, sweetened only with sorghum – a good cup of coffee was something Anthony sorely missed, as is evident from\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a report she filed for a newspaper describing how she \"luxuriated in a Christian cup of coffee\" in Trinidad, Colo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can assure you that my avoirdupois is being rapidly reduced,\"Anthony wrote with characteristic humor in a letter to her family in Rochester, N.Y. Fortunately, she had a robust constitution and weathered the harsh travel conditions mostly without complaint, but a plangent sigh in her diary reflects her frustration: \"O, the crimes that are committed in the kitchens of this land!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The unhealthy food they were served in hotels and many homes was, sadly, characteristic of the age. \"One of the greatest trials these travelers had to endure was the wretched cooking which was the rule and not exception among our much-praised foremothers,\" writes another biographer, Ida Husted Harper, in \u003cem>The Life and Work of Susan B. Anthony:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In those days the housewife could not step around the corner and buy for two cents a cake of yeast which insured good bread, but the process of yeast-making was long and difficult and not well understood by the average housekeeper, so a substitute was found in 'salt risings,' and a heavy indigestible mass generally resulted. White flour was little used and was of a poor quality. Baking powder was unknown and all forms of cakes and warm bread were made with sour milk and soda, easily ruined by too much or too little of the latter. In no particular did the table compare favorably with that of modern families.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anthony was herself an excellent and competent cook – an accomplishment that came as a surprise to those \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/05/454246666/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion\">who believed that suffragists were kitchen-hating viragoes\u003c/a> who couldn't boil water or feed their families because they were out pounding the streets and shrieking for the vote. The anti-suffrage pamphlets of the time were full of sneers: \u003cstrong>\"\u003c/strong>Good cooking lessens alcoholic craving quicker than a vote.\"(Many suffragists were often also temperance movement advocates.) Or, \"You do not need a ballot to clean out your sink.\" The ballot, critics warned, would \"unsex\" women. Anthony, who was unmarried, was especially vulnerable to being typecast as the undomesticated and unattractive spinster, never mind that she was \"a stately Quaker girl\" (in the words of her close friend Elizabeth Cady Stanton), who dressed in quiet but expensive clothes and could pickle, can, garden, varnish, quilt and bake as well as anyone with a brood of children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often, friends of the suffragists invited them home. But this came with its own hazards, since many of those who sympathized with progressive causes were also \"cranks\" – to use the terminology of the day — in thrall to a pure food regimen. In one affluent house in a town near New York City, Anthony and her two friends were offered nuts, apples and baked bran-and-water (which supposedly helped to \"sweep out\" the intestines, in the words of John Harvey Kellogg, a prominent advocate of this kind of ascetic diet) for three meals in a row. After that, her two male abolitionist companions fled, leaving Anthony to stay on through the weekend for the Monday meeting. \"She lived through it,\" writes her biographer Harper, \"but on Tuesday started for New York and never stopped till she reached Delmonico's, where she reveled in a porterhouse steak and a pot of coffee.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But travel is full of strange twists. And Anthony discovered that coffee and courtesy could turn up in the most unexpected places: in a hovel and a saloon, respectively.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuck for hours in Missouri in a fetid train car full of families – \"Any decent farmer's pigpen would be as clean as that car,\" she wrote – Anthony was desperate to get out and join the men who were having a wash at a hovel that stood on the bank. Finally, she got out, rushed up to the woman in charge and asked if she would sell her a cup of coffee. What happened next took her by surprise in the nicest way possible. The woman, wrote Anthony, \"grunted out yes, after some hesitation, and while she was making it, I washed my face and hands. When she handed me my drink she said, 'This is no rye; it is real coffee.' And so it was and I enjoyed it, brass spoon, thick, dingy, cracked cup and all.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for courtesy, it was extended to her by those she described as the \"roughest group\" she had ever encountered – the miners in the boomtown of Leadville, Colo. Since the town's saloon was the largest public space available, Anthony spoke there about women's rights. In deference to her temperance views, the owner draped yards of calico over the bottles behind the bar to hide them from the public. The room was so packed with miners that the crowd overflowed onto the street. When they saw that Anthony was coughing, they immediately put out their pipes (and ordered more drinks). Against every expectation, she was warmly applauded, and when she asked for donations, the men passed a hat around and filled it up with gold dust and nuggets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sixteen years later, in 1893, Colorado became the first state to enact women's suffrage by popular referendum – and Anthony was alive to savor that victory. Though she died before the historic 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> Amendment was passed in 1920 granting American women the right to vote, she knew that its passage was inevitable. As she famously said in her last speech in 1906, a month before she died, \"Failure is impossible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The steeliness of her resolve is captured in an incident that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>occurred at the Fort William Henry hotel in New York state, when Anthony tried to order her own breakfast. Also present at the table was the abolitionist Aaron Powell and suffragist Antoinette Blackwell, who provided the following gleeful account to Harper:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I remember a rich scene at the breakfast table. Aaron Powell was with us and the colored waiter pointedly offered him the bill of fare. Miss Anthony glanced at it and began to give her order, not to Powell in ladylike modesty, but promptly and energetically to the waiter. He turned a grandiloquent, deaf ear; Powell fidgeted and studied his newspaper; she persisted, determined that no man should come between her and her own order for coffee, cornbread and beefsteak. 'What do I understand is the full order, sir, for your party?' demanded the waiter, doggedly and suggestively. Powell tried to repeat her wishes, but stumbled and stammered and grew red in the face ... while she, coolly unconscious of everything except that there was no occasion for a 'middleman,' since she was entirely competent to look after her own breakfast, repeated her order, and the waiter, looking intensely disgusted, concluded to bring something, right or wrong.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One phrase in that paragraph will jump out at the contemporary reader: She persisted. Through green soda bread, muddy coffee, bedbugs, rotten eggs, and patriarchal waiters, Susan B. Anthony stumped right on.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125505\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1744px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855.png\" alt=\"Public relations portrait of Susan B. Anthony as used in the History of Woman Suffrage by Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Volume I, published in 1881.\" width=\"1744\" height=\"1873\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125505\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855.png 1744w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-160x172.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-800x859.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-768x825.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-1020x1095.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-1180x1267.png 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-960x1031.png 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-240x258.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-375x403.png 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/Susan_B_Anthony_c1855-520x558.png 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1744px) 100vw, 1744px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Public relations portrait of Susan B. Anthony as used in the History of Woman Suffrage by Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Volume I, published in 1881. \u003ccite>(By Engraved by G.E. Perine & Co., NY [Public domain], \u003ca href=\"https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Susan_B_Anthony_c1855.png\">via Wikimedia Commons\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She was hanged in effigy and mocked in cartoons; laughed at by Congress for demanding equal rights for women and fined for casting her \"illegal\" vote in 1872; shouted down at public meetings and ridiculed in the press by the upright and uptight columnists of the day. That Susan B. Anthony, champion of the women's movement in the U.S., had to suffer these ignominies is well known.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Less well known is the grueling physical hardship she endured in her long and tireless quest to get women the right to vote. For 45 years, Anthony traveled relentlessly, giving close to a hundred anti-slavery and woman's suffrage speeches a year. This meant that she quite literally lived on the road – travelling through snowstorms and blizzards by train, wagon, boat, skiff and sleigh. She stumped her way through New York, Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Nevada, Oregon, Washington, California and even – against the advice of other suffragists – \"polygamous Utah.\" Often the only woman in the room, she spoke at any public venue that opened its doors to her – from African-American churches and saloons to teachers' institutes, railroad depots, abandoned barracks and tobacco factories. Once, she even lectured from atop a lumber wagon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The journeys were punishing and the reception, while sometimes warm and encouraging, was often apathetic, sullen or viciously combative. On the eve of the Civil War, when the national mood was fissile, rotten eggs were lobbed at the stage and cayenne pepper flung on the stove to disrupt the meeting. Implacable, Anthony stood her ground. But one can well imagine how much she and her companions longed for a hot meal and a clean bed after these brutal encounters. In most cases, however, they went back to a dirty hotel and terrible food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Most of the food served them was green with soda or floating in grease and the hotels were infested with bedbugs,\" writes her biographer Alma Lutz in \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/20439/20439-h/20439-h.htm\">\u003cem>Susan B. Anthony: Rebel, Crusader, Humanitarian\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Susan wrote her family of sleepless nights and of picking the 'tormentors' out of their bonnets and the ruffles of their dresses.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>One South Dakota hotel served \"sour bread, muddy coffee and stewed green grapes.\"\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>In others they were faced with unclean water, straw pallets and coffee without cream or milk, sweetened only with sorghum – a good cup of coffee was something Anthony sorely missed, as is evident from\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a report she filed for a newspaper describing how she \"luxuriated in a Christian cup of coffee\" in Trinidad, Colo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can assure you that my avoirdupois is being rapidly reduced,\"Anthony wrote with characteristic humor in a letter to her family in Rochester, N.Y. Fortunately, she had a robust constitution and weathered the harsh travel conditions mostly without complaint, but a plangent sigh in her diary reflects her frustration: \"O, the crimes that are committed in the kitchens of this land!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The unhealthy food they were served in hotels and many homes was, sadly, characteristic of the age. \"One of the greatest trials these travelers had to endure was the wretched cooking which was the rule and not exception among our much-praised foremothers,\" writes another biographer, Ida Husted Harper, in \u003cem>The Life and Work of Susan B. Anthony:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In those days the housewife could not step around the corner and buy for two cents a cake of yeast which insured good bread, but the process of yeast-making was long and difficult and not well understood by the average housekeeper, so a substitute was found in 'salt risings,' and a heavy indigestible mass generally resulted. White flour was little used and was of a poor quality. Baking powder was unknown and all forms of cakes and warm bread were made with sour milk and soda, easily ruined by too much or too little of the latter. In no particular did the table compare favorably with that of modern families.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anthony was herself an excellent and competent cook – an accomplishment that came as a surprise to those \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/05/454246666/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion\">who believed that suffragists were kitchen-hating viragoes\u003c/a> who couldn't boil water or feed their families because they were out pounding the streets and shrieking for the vote. The anti-suffrage pamphlets of the time were full of sneers: \u003cstrong>\"\u003c/strong>Good cooking lessens alcoholic craving quicker than a vote.\"(Many suffragists were often also temperance movement advocates.) Or, \"You do not need a ballot to clean out your sink.\" The ballot, critics warned, would \"unsex\" women. Anthony, who was unmarried, was especially vulnerable to being typecast as the undomesticated and unattractive spinster, never mind that she was \"a stately Quaker girl\" (in the words of her close friend Elizabeth Cady Stanton), who dressed in quiet but expensive clothes and could pickle, can, garden, varnish, quilt and bake as well as anyone with a brood of children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often, friends of the suffragists invited them home. But this came with its own hazards, since many of those who sympathized with progressive causes were also \"cranks\" – to use the terminology of the day — in thrall to a pure food regimen. In one affluent house in a town near New York City, Anthony and her two friends were offered nuts, apples and baked bran-and-water (which supposedly helped to \"sweep out\" the intestines, in the words of John Harvey Kellogg, a prominent advocate of this kind of ascetic diet) for three meals in a row. After that, her two male abolitionist companions fled, leaving Anthony to stay on through the weekend for the Monday meeting. \"She lived through it,\" writes her biographer Harper, \"but on Tuesday started for New York and never stopped till she reached Delmonico's, where she reveled in a porterhouse steak and a pot of coffee.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But travel is full of strange twists. And Anthony discovered that coffee and courtesy could turn up in the most unexpected places: in a hovel and a saloon, respectively.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuck for hours in Missouri in a fetid train car full of families – \"Any decent farmer's pigpen would be as clean as that car,\" she wrote – Anthony was desperate to get out and join the men who were having a wash at a hovel that stood on the bank. Finally, she got out, rushed up to the woman in charge and asked if she would sell her a cup of coffee. What happened next took her by surprise in the nicest way possible. The woman, wrote Anthony, \"grunted out yes, after some hesitation, and while she was making it, I washed my face and hands. When she handed me my drink she said, 'This is no rye; it is real coffee.' And so it was and I enjoyed it, brass spoon, thick, dingy, cracked cup and all.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for courtesy, it was extended to her by those she described as the \"roughest group\" she had ever encountered – the miners in the boomtown of Leadville, Colo. Since the town's saloon was the largest public space available, Anthony spoke there about women's rights. In deference to her temperance views, the owner draped yards of calico over the bottles behind the bar to hide them from the public. The room was so packed with miners that the crowd overflowed onto the street. When they saw that Anthony was coughing, they immediately put out their pipes (and ordered more drinks). Against every expectation, she was warmly applauded, and when she asked for donations, the men passed a hat around and filled it up with gold dust and nuggets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sixteen years later, in 1893, Colorado became the first state to enact women's suffrage by popular referendum – and Anthony was alive to savor that victory. Though she died before the historic 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> Amendment was passed in 1920 granting American women the right to vote, she knew that its passage was inevitable. As she famously said in her last speech in 1906, a month before she died, \"Failure is impossible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The steeliness of her resolve is captured in an incident that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>occurred at the Fort William Henry hotel in New York state, when Anthony tried to order her own breakfast. Also present at the table was the abolitionist Aaron Powell and suffragist Antoinette Blackwell, who provided the following gleeful account to Harper:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I remember a rich scene at the breakfast table. Aaron Powell was with us and the colored waiter pointedly offered him the bill of fare. Miss Anthony glanced at it and began to give her order, not to Powell in ladylike modesty, but promptly and energetically to the waiter. He turned a grandiloquent, deaf ear; Powell fidgeted and studied his newspaper; she persisted, determined that no man should come between her and her own order for coffee, cornbread and beefsteak. 'What do I understand is the full order, sir, for your party?' demanded the waiter, doggedly and suggestively. Powell tried to repeat her wishes, but stumbled and stammered and grew red in the face ... while she, coolly unconscious of everything except that there was no occasion for a 'middleman,' since she was entirely competent to look after her own breakfast, repeated her order, and the waiter, looking intensely disgusted, concluded to bring something, right or wrong.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One phrase in that paragraph will jump out at the contemporary reader: She persisted. Through green soda bread, muddy coffee, bedbugs, rotten eggs, and patriarchal waiters, Susan B. Anthony stumped right on.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Like Lemons? Quinoa? Thank This Food Explorer For Bringing Them To Your Plate",
"title": "Like Lemons? Quinoa? Thank This Food Explorer For Bringing Them To Your Plate",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/02/20180220_atc_like_lemons_quinoa_thank_this_food_explorer_for_bringing_them_to_your_plate.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Botanist David Fairchild grew up in Kansas at the end of the 19th century. He loved plants, and he loved travel, and he found a way to combine both into a job for the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125144\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of David Fairchild.\" width=\"600\" height=\"968\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-160x258.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-240x387.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-375x605.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-520x839.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A portrait of David Fairchild. \u003ccite>(Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the age of 22, he created the Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction of the USDA, and for the next 37 years, he traveled the world in search of useful plants to bring back to America. He \u003ca href=\"https://www.fairchildgarden.org/About-Fairchild/Mission-History\">visited\u003c/a> every continent except Antarctica and brought back mangos, quinoa, dates, cotton, soybeans, bamboo and the flowering Japanese cherry trees that blossom all over Washington D.C. each spring, as well as hundreds of other plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All Things Considered host Ari Shapiro talked with \u003ca href=\"https://www.danielstonebooks.com/\">Daniel Stone\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>The Food Explorer: The True Adventures Of A Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats\u003c/em>, which recounts Fairchild's sometimes harrowing adventures acquiring the familiar foods we eat and plants we take for granted today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how common a traveling foodie would have been in Fairchild's time\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was very rare. This was an era where people did not travel very far and travel was very difficult. It was often by boat or steamer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Fairchild traveled to over 50 countries, and met all sorts of people, some hostile, some diplomatic, and some friendly. He outran diseases, he got arrested, and he made it back with seeds almost every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He caught typhoid at one point, he gets arrows shot at him in the Malay Islands, he almost falls off a mule over a canyon in the Andes while he's looking for quinoa — but he survives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Fairchild's tactics for finding plants\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125146\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-240x317.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-375x495.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-520x686.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Food Explorer book \u003ccite>(Dutton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He started out as many of us do in new jobs — awkward and unequipped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He could steal things, as he did in Corsica, searching for new types of citron, or lemons. He got arrested and had to leave very quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he eventually develops a strategy of talking with people, going to markets, observing what people are eating and what they're growing. And he sends back seeds and cuttings to try in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Fairchild was sure he'd discovered the next big thing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1903 he travels around southern Africa and he finds a pint-sized pineapple — the size of a banana — very small. He thinks everyone's going to want a small pineapple, but the pineapple growers in the states and in South American say, 'No, people want bigger pineapples.' And now, 100 years later, we have even bigger pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On whether Fairchild was a genius or just lucky\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125148\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California.\" width=\"600\" height=\"915\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125148\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-160x244.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-240x366.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-375x572.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-520x793.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California. \u003ccite>(D.G. Passmore/U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He got lucky. He found a way to feed his wanderlust on a need his country had. So much of the labor force was farmers in that era, and they needed food to grow. The growth of America was the growth of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his efforts to improve existing American food crops\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 19th century, American beer was not very good. Germany had been brewing beer for centuries. Fairchild went to Bavaria to find better hops to brew better beer. Now, Germany knew it had great hops and had dogs guarding the hops fields at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fairchild could have stolen some of the hops, but he sees this as an opportunity for diplomacy. He befriends the growers, drinks with them in the beer hall, and eventually one of them says, 'I'll give you some hops but you can't tell anyone and you have to leave tomorrow.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125151\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"881\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125151\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-160x94.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-800x470.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-768x451.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1020x599.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1180x693.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-960x564.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-240x141.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-375x220.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-520x305.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the role of foods as immigrants in America\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples come from Kahzakstan, bananas come from New Guinea, pineapples from Brazil, and the oranges and lemons that have fueled the economies of Florida and California? They originated in China ... Almost every food we eat is an immigrant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-160x131.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-800x653.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-768x627.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1020x833.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1180x964.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-960x784.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-240x196.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-375x306.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-520x425.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Smokey Baer, Jolie Myers, and April Fulton contributed to this report.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "In the early 20th century, botanist David Fairchild traveled the world and brought plants back to the U.S. that we now see as thoroughly American. NPR talks with the author of a book on Fairchild.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Botanist David Fairchild grew up in Kansas at the end of the 19th century. He loved plants, and he loved travel, and he found a way to combine both into a job for the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125144\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A portrait of David Fairchild.\" width=\"600\" height=\"968\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-160x258.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-240x387.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-375x605.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/00188_custom-5215cf2bc0aa18f2ae3949aa4382b2deda5b3fc9-s600-c85-520x839.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A portrait of David Fairchild. \u003ccite>(Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the age of 22, he created the Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction of the USDA, and for the next 37 years, he traveled the world in search of useful plants to bring back to America. He \u003ca href=\"https://www.fairchildgarden.org/About-Fairchild/Mission-History\">visited\u003c/a> every continent except Antarctica and brought back mangos, quinoa, dates, cotton, soybeans, bamboo and the flowering Japanese cherry trees that blossom all over Washington D.C. each spring, as well as hundreds of other plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All Things Considered host Ari Shapiro talked with \u003ca href=\"https://www.danielstonebooks.com/\">Daniel Stone\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>The Food Explorer: The True Adventures Of A Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats\u003c/em>, which recounts Fairchild's sometimes harrowing adventures acquiring the familiar foods we eat and plants we take for granted today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how common a traveling foodie would have been in Fairchild's time\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was very rare. This was an era where people did not travel very far and travel was very difficult. It was often by boat or steamer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet Fairchild traveled to over 50 countries, and met all sorts of people, some hostile, some diplomatic, and some friendly. He outran diseases, he got arrested, and he made it back with seeds almost every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He caught typhoid at one point, he gets arrows shot at him in the Malay Islands, he almost falls off a mule over a canyon in the Andes while he's looking for quinoa — but he survives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Fairchild's tactics for finding plants\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125146\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"792\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-160x211.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-240x317.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-375x495.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/foodexplorer-hc_custom-4a3370d46e54755d892dfacfc77bbea3b3210375-s600-c85-520x686.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Food Explorer book \u003ccite>(Dutton)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He started out as many of us do in new jobs — awkward and unequipped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He could steal things, as he did in Corsica, searching for new types of citron, or lemons. He got arrested and had to leave very quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he eventually develops a strategy of talking with people, going to markets, observing what people are eating and what they're growing. And he sends back seeds and cuttings to try in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Fairchild was sure he'd discovered the next big thing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1903 he travels around southern Africa and he finds a pint-sized pineapple — the size of a banana — very small. He thinks everyone's going to want a small pineapple, but the pineapple growers in the states and in South American say, 'No, people want bigger pineapples.' And now, 100 years later, we have even bigger pineapples.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On whether Fairchild was a genius or just lucky\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125148\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California.\" width=\"600\" height=\"915\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125148\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-160x244.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-240x366.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-375x572.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/corsicanlimon_1899a_custom-7e5d76314e3dc39ccc0f73f389b369e98535a63e-s600-c85-520x793.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">1899 Watercolor of a Corsican Lemon grown in California. \u003ccite>(D.G. Passmore/U.S. Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>He got lucky. He found a way to feed his wanderlust on a need his country had. So much of the labor force was farmers in that era, and they needed food to grow. The growth of America was the growth of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his efforts to improve existing American food crops\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 19th century, American beer was not very good. Germany had been brewing beer for centuries. Fairchild went to Bavaria to find better hops to brew better beer. Now, Germany knew it had great hops and had dogs guarding the hops fields at night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fairchild could have stolen some of the hops, but he sees this as an opportunity for diplomacy. He befriends the growers, drinks with them in the beer hall, and eventually one of them says, 'I'll give you some hops but you can't tell anyone and you have to leave tomorrow.'\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125151\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"881\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125151\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-160x94.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-800x470.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-768x451.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1020x599.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-1180x693.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-960x564.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-240x141.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-375x220.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/07754-012_custom-57b568e1238528da60aae8aaf938b7d3c579c306-s1500-c85-520x305.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To acquire hops in Bavaria in 1901, Fairchild resorted to flattery. He took this portrait of a Bavarian beer brewer to cajole the man into giving him hops. The plan worked and Fairchild's hops enriched American beermakers in the years before Prohibition. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the role of foods as immigrants in America\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples come from Kahzakstan, bananas come from New Guinea, pineapples from Brazil, and the oranges and lemons that have fueled the economies of Florida and California? They originated in China ... Almost every food we eat is an immigrant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking.\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-160x131.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-800x653.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-768x627.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1020x833.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-1180x964.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-960x784.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-240x196.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-375x306.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/10876-077_custom-90fad5d1f3baa45ece194b5972ceb897fea72132-s1500-c85-520x425.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While visiting the grand canal of Venice in 1898, Fairchild photographed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were the earlier conquests of European plant explorers who brought them back from the New World. Items like tomatoes, onions, and squashes, like those pictured here, became central ingredients in Italian cooking. \u003ccite>(David Fairchild/Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Smokey Baer, Jolie Myers, and April Fulton contributed to this report.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Did Salt And Pepper Become The Soulmates Of Western Cuisine?",
"title": "How Did Salt And Pepper Become The Soulmates Of Western Cuisine?",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Salt and pepper shakers are so omnipresent on tabletops that adding a dash of the white or black stuff (or both!) is almost a dining rite. The seasonings pair well with just about everything and they go together like — well, salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these two culinary staples have not always occupied such a place of prominence. \"It's a weird accident of history,\" says Ken Albala, a professor of history and founder of the Food Studies Program at the University of the Pacific. In Europe during the Late Middle Ages, \"Pepper was never on the table, nor was any other spice, for that matter. Usually spices would be added in the kitchen with a very heavy hand until the 17\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt was on the table, but not in a shaker. Instead, salt was often presented in saltcellars, or in Italian courtly settings, at the end of a knife offered by a \u003cem>trinciante\u003c/em>, or meat carver. According to Albala, the \u003cem>trinciante\u003c/em> would carve the meat in the air, allowing each slice to fall delicately to the person being served. The \u003cem>trinciante\u003c/em> would then dip the end of the knife in salt and scrape it onto the diner's plate. (If this sounds complicated, it was; there were entire books dedicated to the art of carving, and noblemen were often the carvers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, salt has occupied a place of culinary dominance across cultures. \"We like the taste of salt innately because salt is a signal of protein in nature,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.brown.edu/Departments/CLPS/people/rachel-herz\">Rachel Herz\u003c/a>, an adjunct assistant professor of psychiatry and human behavior at Brown University and author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Why-You-Eat-What-Relationship/dp/0393243311/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517517859&sr=8-1&keywords=why+you+eat+what+you+eat\">Why You Eat What You Eat\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. What's more, humans need salt to regulate fluid balance and help nerves and muscles function. Salt also helped preserve food before refrigeration. And, Herz says, studies have shown that the more salt people eat, the more they crave it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So salt had a foothold in cooking, and pepper was one of many spices used in heavily seasoned dishes. But after the Middle Ages, the use of most spices decreased. The decline likely had \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/26/394339284/how-snobbery-helped-take-the-spice-out-of-european-cooking\">multiple causes\u003c/a>. As spices got more affordable, they grew less associated with wealth and featured less in European courtly cooking. At the same time, the view that spices were necessary for specific healthful properties declined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Albala, increasingly influential French haute cuisine relegated most spices to dessert, but salty and spicy flavors were not incorporated into the final course. Because they did not fit in dessert, salt and pepper remained flavors in savory dishes. Salt shakers, Albala surmises, probably became common in the early 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when producers figured out how to keep salt from clumping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tabletop seasonings may do more than flavor food, according to \u003ca href=\"https://steinhardt.nyu.edu/faculty/Krishnendu_Ray\">Krishnendu Ray\u003c/a>, an associate professor of food studies at New York University. Unlike today — when many people have personalized diets for nutritional, ethical or preferential reasons — \"in most traditional cuisines, individual exceptions were rare. Most people ate what people around them ate. Seasonings allowed room for idiosyncrasies and personal preferences.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seasonings can also serve as bridges between different types of cuisine. Ray, for example, grew up in a small town in Odisha, a state in eastern India. On special occasions, his family would go to one of two Chinese restaurants, and both featured a tabletop condiment of green chiles in vinegar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very Indian to have green chiles,\" says Ray. \"But vinegar isn't that common in Indian food, other than being used in some marinades.\" The sauce was so central to his conception of Chinese food, that he was \"shocked\" when he came to the West and learned the condiment was not a staple in Chinese food everywhere. In retrospect, he views the condiment as building a bridge between Indian and Chinese cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Ray's story demonstrates, salt and pepper may rule supreme among seasonings in European dishes, but many culinary traditions have produced plenty of tabletop alternatives. Ray asked for examples on the Association for the Study of Food and Society's \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/groups/9531416060/permalink/10155855961111061/?comment_id=10155856351326061¬if_id=1516647870081571¬if_t=group_comment\">Facebook page\u003c/a> and received 36 responses within two hours. Among the examples: fish sauce and crushed red peppers in Thailand and Laos; lime, salsa, and chopped onion and cilantro in Mexico; and chile-based awaze paste in Ethiopia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's chefs could even incorporate some tips from the Middle Ages and Renaissance, according to Albala, who has cooked a number of recipes from the past. Many old recipes do not say exactly how much seasoning to add; one 16\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century French cookbook simply advises \"a great deal of sugar.\" The recipes can probably take up to a tablespoon of seasoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people assume they couldn't have put so much seasoning on, because it wouldn't taste good. I say nonsense!\" Albala declares. \"Sprinkle cinnamon and sugar on top of chicken or pasta, and it is so good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Natalie Jacewicz is a science writer based in New York City. You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"http://nataliejacewicz.com/\">here\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/524730163/gnawing-questions\">Gnawing Questions\u003c/a> is a semi-regular column answering the food mysteries puzzling us and our readers. Got a question you want us to explore? \u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Let us know via our \u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://help.npr.org/customer/portal/emails/new?i=1&s=The%20Salt\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>contact form\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The two flavors are mainstays on nearly every Western dining table, but their dominance was far from inevitable. In fact, their dual reign resulted from a \"weird accident of history.\"",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Salt and pepper shakers are so omnipresent on tabletops that adding a dash of the white or black stuff (or both!) is almost a dining rite. The seasonings pair well with just about everything and they go together like — well, salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But these two culinary staples have not always occupied such a place of prominence. \"It's a weird accident of history,\" says Ken Albala, a professor of history and founder of the Food Studies Program at the University of the Pacific. In Europe during the Late Middle Ages, \"Pepper was never on the table, nor was any other spice, for that matter. Usually spices would be added in the kitchen with a very heavy hand until the 17\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt was on the table, but not in a shaker. Instead, salt was often presented in saltcellars, or in Italian courtly settings, at the end of a knife offered by a \u003cem>trinciante\u003c/em>, or meat carver. According to Albala, the \u003cem>trinciante\u003c/em> would carve the meat in the air, allowing each slice to fall delicately to the person being served. The \u003cem>trinciante\u003c/em> would then dip the end of the knife in salt and scrape it onto the diner's plate. (If this sounds complicated, it was; there were entire books dedicated to the art of carving, and noblemen were often the carvers.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, salt has occupied a place of culinary dominance across cultures. \"We like the taste of salt innately because salt is a signal of protein in nature,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://www.brown.edu/Departments/CLPS/people/rachel-herz\">Rachel Herz\u003c/a>, an adjunct assistant professor of psychiatry and human behavior at Brown University and author of \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Why-You-Eat-What-Relationship/dp/0393243311/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517517859&sr=8-1&keywords=why+you+eat+what+you+eat\">Why You Eat What You Eat\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. What's more, humans need salt to regulate fluid balance and help nerves and muscles function. Salt also helped preserve food before refrigeration. And, Herz says, studies have shown that the more salt people eat, the more they crave it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So salt had a foothold in cooking, and pepper was one of many spices used in heavily seasoned dishes. But after the Middle Ages, the use of most spices decreased. The decline likely had \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/26/394339284/how-snobbery-helped-take-the-spice-out-of-european-cooking\">multiple causes\u003c/a>. As spices got more affordable, they grew less associated with wealth and featured less in European courtly cooking. At the same time, the view that spices were necessary for specific healthful properties declined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Albala, increasingly influential French haute cuisine relegated most spices to dessert, but salty and spicy flavors were not incorporated into the final course. Because they did not fit in dessert, salt and pepper remained flavors in savory dishes. Salt shakers, Albala surmises, probably became common in the early 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when producers figured out how to keep salt from clumping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tabletop seasonings may do more than flavor food, according to \u003ca href=\"https://steinhardt.nyu.edu/faculty/Krishnendu_Ray\">Krishnendu Ray\u003c/a>, an associate professor of food studies at New York University. Unlike today — when many people have personalized diets for nutritional, ethical or preferential reasons — \"in most traditional cuisines, individual exceptions were rare. Most people ate what people around them ate. Seasonings allowed room for idiosyncrasies and personal preferences.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seasonings can also serve as bridges between different types of cuisine. Ray, for example, grew up in a small town in Odisha, a state in eastern India. On special occasions, his family would go to one of two Chinese restaurants, and both featured a tabletop condiment of green chiles in vinegar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very Indian to have green chiles,\" says Ray. \"But vinegar isn't that common in Indian food, other than being used in some marinades.\" The sauce was so central to his conception of Chinese food, that he was \"shocked\" when he came to the West and learned the condiment was not a staple in Chinese food everywhere. In retrospect, he views the condiment as building a bridge between Indian and Chinese cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Ray's story demonstrates, salt and pepper may rule supreme among seasonings in European dishes, but many culinary traditions have produced plenty of tabletop alternatives. Ray asked for examples on the Association for the Study of Food and Society's \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/groups/9531416060/permalink/10155855961111061/?comment_id=10155856351326061¬if_id=1516647870081571¬if_t=group_comment\">Facebook page\u003c/a> and received 36 responses within two hours. Among the examples: fish sauce and crushed red peppers in Thailand and Laos; lime, salsa, and chopped onion and cilantro in Mexico; and chile-based awaze paste in Ethiopia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's chefs could even incorporate some tips from the Middle Ages and Renaissance, according to Albala, who has cooked a number of recipes from the past. Many old recipes do not say exactly how much seasoning to add; one 16\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century French cookbook simply advises \"a great deal of sugar.\" The recipes can probably take up to a tablespoon of seasoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people assume they couldn't have put so much seasoning on, because it wouldn't taste good. I say nonsense!\" Albala declares. \"Sprinkle cinnamon and sugar on top of chicken or pasta, and it is so good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Natalie Jacewicz is a science writer based in New York City. You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"http://nataliejacewicz.com/\">here\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/524730163/gnawing-questions\">Gnawing Questions\u003c/a> is a semi-regular column answering the food mysteries puzzling us and our readers. Got a question you want us to explore? \u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Let us know via our \u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://help.npr.org/customer/portal/emails/new?i=1&s=The%20Salt\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>contact form\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Jews Feast on Forbidden Foods to Remember Rabbis' Radical Banquet",
"title": "Jews Feast on Forbidden Foods to Remember Rabbis' Radical Banquet",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>When a journalist and chef made the decision to host a dinner party and invite members of the Illuminoshi (a not-so-secret society of San Francisco Bay Area Jewish food professionals) to eat a meal of pork and shellfish-filled dishes in the name of education, she knew that more than a few people would have some beef with the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An event like that takes lots of, as the Jews say, \u003cem>chutzpah\u003c/em> to put on. Which is why Alix Wall prefaced the announcement of Trefa Banquet 2.0 with an apology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can hear the groans coming from a few of you,\" Wall, the founder of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jweekly.com/2016/04/15/a-not-so-secret-society-for-jewish-foodies/\">Illuminoshi\u003c/a>, writes in the invitation. \"I want to explain that I am not doing this just to be disrespectful by celebrating Jews' love for all things forbidden to us, even though we all know it's real. I thought a celebration of \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> should be accompanied by learning about the real one.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The real \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> (a Yiddish word for non-kosher) was \u003ca href=\"http://americanjewisharchives.org/publications/journal/PDF/2005_57_01_02_sussman.pdf\">the original Trefa Banquet\u003c/a>, a scandalous summer evening in 1883 when a group of newly appointed rabbis of the reform movement's Hebrew Union College in Cincinnati commemorated their achievements as most do, by treating themselves. Except this treat included nine courses of non-kosher French food — beginning with littleneck clams on the half-shell and ending with a spread of ice cream and cheese for dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal became a myth of sorts among the community, thanks to varying accounts of what happened that night. Some American Jews say that several of the newly ordained rabbis, in true \u003cem>Real Housewives\u003c/em> style, caused a commotion at the table, then fled the dinner in horror — and kept running until they found a place to start the flagship rabbinical school of the conservative Jewish movement, the Jewish Theological Seminary, three years later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124551\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124551\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt='The crowd of diners at the Trefa Banquet 2.0 event. \"Today, American Jews remember the [original 1883] meal as a statement about the values of the reform movement,\" says Rachel Gross, a professor of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University.' width=\"1500\" height=\"998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The crowd of diners at the Trefa Banquet 2.0 event. \"Today, American Jews remember the [original 1883] meal as a statement about the values of the reform movement,\" says Rachel Gross, a professor of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The rules of keeping kosher, or \u003cem>kashrut\u003c/em>, are a complex symbol of holiness in the Torah and an example of one's ability to practice discipline during the necessary human act of eating. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.koshercertification.org.uk/whatdoe.html\">somewhat confusing Jewish dietary laws\u003c/a>, fish with fins and scales can be eaten (hence the ubiquity of lox), but scaleless finned catfish are sinful. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ok.org/companies/what-is-kosher/meat-dairy-pareve-setting-boundaries/\">Animals with a \"split hoof\" who \"chew the cud,\u003c/a>\" a digestive process that could make you swear-off eating altogether, are all the livestock that are allowed. This means burgers are aplenty but no rabbit or pork in all of their glorious forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheeseburgers, however, are forbidden. The Torah explains that \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/5191-dietary-laws%23anchor5\">cooking a calf in mother's milk is prohibited\u003c/a>, a rule that later transformed into restricting the consumption of dairy and meat both at the same time and during the same meal (no dairy in your coffee or dessert if you've eaten meat).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, when \u003cem>kashrut\u003c/em> laws were created, Moses didn't have the benefit of food safety laws. Which invites the dilemma that America Jews in the last century have faced when it comes to the food they eat. The rules of \u003cem>kashrut \u003c/em>are elaborate, and some have argued that the dietary laws were merely given as an example of a time when man must obey God's authority without asking why.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is exactly why reform Rabbi Camille Angel found the treyf 2.0 event to be kosher in her book. \"I don't keep kosher at home, so the opportunity to be part of an educational gourmet evening out with community is compelling and fun,\" explains Angel, the daughter of a lobster-eating reform rabbi. \"Many people here didn't know about this historic moment in the the reform movement. We were radical then, and we continue to push the boundaries of progress now. You can be Jewish and modern, whether or not you keep kosher.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124552\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124552\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ari Feingold created these peanut butter pies with bacon. What illicit hooch meant to Prohibition, pork meant to Trefa Banquet 2.0.\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ari Feingold created these peanut butter pies with bacon. What illicit hooch meant to Prohibition, pork meant to Trefa Banquet 2.0. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back at the original banquet, no pork was served, although there was plenty of shellfish. According to Rachel Gross, a kosher-keeping professor of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University who attended Trefa Banquet 2.0, the lack of pork suggests that the menu was a snapshot of what most American Jews ate in the late 19th century, practicing selective \u003cem>kashrut\u003c/em> because there was no standardized oversight of kosher meat at that time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Today, American Jews remember the meal as a statement about the values of the reform movement,\" said Gross at the dinner. \"Ideas about what is and is not acceptable to eat are important ways in which humans have organized their societies and the way [Jewish] people have thought about themselves as Jews and as Americans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chefs at Trefa Banquet 2.0 were all non-kosher Jews, the dishes were put together like they had been waiting their entire lives to add pork to their favorite Jewish foods. Like they could never put their finger on what was missing from potato \u003cem>kugel\u003c/em> until they added some pulled pork to it. Bacon also found its way into several dishes that night. Diners snacked on bacon jam-topped chicken liver profiteroles, potato pancakes garnished with crispy bacon, and even miniature peanut butter pies sprinkled with fresh bacon bits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What illicit hooch meant to Prohibition, pork meant to Trefa Banquet 2.0.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before we dug into the swine-y supper, Rabbi Sydney Mintz (a lesbian with a stand-up comedy side-hustle) of Reform Congregation Emanu-El in San Francisco gave the banquet her blessing, mentioning to the crowd that she and many other modern Jews have shifted their focus from kosher food to humanely, ethically, and sustainably raised meat. In fact, the pork and rabbit we ate that night was donated by the Jewish farmers from Devil's Gulch Ranch who practice exactly that on the Northern California coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some Jews like Wall, eating pork is actually a part of their Jewish identity. As a child during the Holocaust, Wall's mother hid with a pork-eating Catholic family in Poland. She \u003ca href=\"https://porkmemoirs.com/2011/12/30/surviving-on-raw-bacon-in-wartime-poland/\">ate the raw bacon meals\u003c/a> that she was served. When she came to America, eating pork was a symbol of nostalgia for her, and eating \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> foods became a part of Wall's connection to her Jewishness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever happened during that first \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> banquet, many Jews know how they \u003cem>feel \u003c/em>about the idea of what happened that night. Which invites the modern dilemma Americans face today: Do feelings or facts matter more?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which got me thinking about the way the treyf diet has been marketed. What if the reformed kosher diet was rebranded as \"Jewish-American fusion?\" Would the Jewish community be supportive of more treyf dinner parties? Who doesn't love a good fusion restaurant?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Ancient Jewish teachings ban pork, shellfish, and meat mixed with dairy in the same meal. Some modern Jews wanting to evolve the way they eat look to a scandalous feast of the past for inspiration.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When a journalist and chef made the decision to host a dinner party and invite members of the Illuminoshi (a not-so-secret society of San Francisco Bay Area Jewish food professionals) to eat a meal of pork and shellfish-filled dishes in the name of education, she knew that more than a few people would have some beef with the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An event like that takes lots of, as the Jews say, \u003cem>chutzpah\u003c/em> to put on. Which is why Alix Wall prefaced the announcement of Trefa Banquet 2.0 with an apology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I can hear the groans coming from a few of you,\" Wall, the founder of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jweekly.com/2016/04/15/a-not-so-secret-society-for-jewish-foodies/\">Illuminoshi\u003c/a>, writes in the invitation. \"I want to explain that I am not doing this just to be disrespectful by celebrating Jews' love for all things forbidden to us, even though we all know it's real. I thought a celebration of \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> should be accompanied by learning about the real one.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The real \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> (a Yiddish word for non-kosher) was \u003ca href=\"http://americanjewisharchives.org/publications/journal/PDF/2005_57_01_02_sussman.pdf\">the original Trefa Banquet\u003c/a>, a scandalous summer evening in 1883 when a group of newly appointed rabbis of the reform movement's Hebrew Union College in Cincinnati commemorated their achievements as most do, by treating themselves. Except this treat included nine courses of non-kosher French food — beginning with littleneck clams on the half-shell and ending with a spread of ice cream and cheese for dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal became a myth of sorts among the community, thanks to varying accounts of what happened that night. Some American Jews say that several of the newly ordained rabbis, in true \u003cem>Real Housewives\u003c/em> style, caused a commotion at the table, then fled the dinner in horror — and kept running until they found a place to start the flagship rabbinical school of the conservative Jewish movement, the Jewish Theological Seminary, three years later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124551\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124551\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt='The crowd of diners at the Trefa Banquet 2.0 event. \"Today, American Jews remember the [original 1883] meal as a statement about the values of the reform movement,\" says Rachel Gross, a professor of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University.' width=\"1500\" height=\"998\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-107_custom-e4537658dad15725ffdda41822e4cf2d2dab837b-s1500-c85-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The crowd of diners at the Trefa Banquet 2.0 event. \"Today, American Jews remember the [original 1883] meal as a statement about the values of the reform movement,\" says Rachel Gross, a professor of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The rules of keeping kosher, or \u003cem>kashrut\u003c/em>, are a complex symbol of holiness in the Torah and an example of one's ability to practice discipline during the necessary human act of eating. According to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.koshercertification.org.uk/whatdoe.html\">somewhat confusing Jewish dietary laws\u003c/a>, fish with fins and scales can be eaten (hence the ubiquity of lox), but scaleless finned catfish are sinful. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ok.org/companies/what-is-kosher/meat-dairy-pareve-setting-boundaries/\">Animals with a \"split hoof\" who \"chew the cud,\u003c/a>\" a digestive process that could make you swear-off eating altogether, are all the livestock that are allowed. This means burgers are aplenty but no rabbit or pork in all of their glorious forms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cheeseburgers, however, are forbidden. The Torah explains that \u003ca href=\"http://www.jewishencyclopedia.com/articles/5191-dietary-laws%23anchor5\">cooking a calf in mother's milk is prohibited\u003c/a>, a rule that later transformed into restricting the consumption of dairy and meat both at the same time and during the same meal (no dairy in your coffee or dessert if you've eaten meat).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, when \u003cem>kashrut\u003c/em> laws were created, Moses didn't have the benefit of food safety laws. Which invites the dilemma that America Jews in the last century have faced when it comes to the food they eat. The rules of \u003cem>kashrut \u003c/em>are elaborate, and some have argued that the dietary laws were merely given as an example of a time when man must obey God's authority without asking why.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is exactly why reform Rabbi Camille Angel found the treyf 2.0 event to be kosher in her book. \"I don't keep kosher at home, so the opportunity to be part of an educational gourmet evening out with community is compelling and fun,\" explains Angel, the daughter of a lobster-eating reform rabbi. \"Many people here didn't know about this historic moment in the the reform movement. We were radical then, and we continue to push the boundaries of progress now. You can be Jewish and modern, whether or not you keep kosher.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_124552\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-124552\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Ari Feingold created these peanut butter pies with bacon. What illicit hooch meant to Prohibition, pork meant to Trefa Banquet 2.0.\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/01/treyfa-054a_custom-cc4db1a4b8ef52f2e4e6ddb6719ce3d4d58b88f5-s600-c85-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Ari Feingold created these peanut butter pies with bacon. What illicit hooch meant to Prohibition, pork meant to Trefa Banquet 2.0. \u003ccite>(Lydia Daniller)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back at the original banquet, no pork was served, although there was plenty of shellfish. According to Rachel Gross, a kosher-keeping professor of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University who attended Trefa Banquet 2.0, the lack of pork suggests that the menu was a snapshot of what most American Jews ate in the late 19th century, practicing selective \u003cem>kashrut\u003c/em> because there was no standardized oversight of kosher meat at that time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Today, American Jews remember the meal as a statement about the values of the reform movement,\" said Gross at the dinner. \"Ideas about what is and is not acceptable to eat are important ways in which humans have organized their societies and the way [Jewish] people have thought about themselves as Jews and as Americans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chefs at Trefa Banquet 2.0 were all non-kosher Jews, the dishes were put together like they had been waiting their entire lives to add pork to their favorite Jewish foods. Like they could never put their finger on what was missing from potato \u003cem>kugel\u003c/em> until they added some pulled pork to it. Bacon also found its way into several dishes that night. Diners snacked on bacon jam-topped chicken liver profiteroles, potato pancakes garnished with crispy bacon, and even miniature peanut butter pies sprinkled with fresh bacon bits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What illicit hooch meant to Prohibition, pork meant to Trefa Banquet 2.0.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before we dug into the swine-y supper, Rabbi Sydney Mintz (a lesbian with a stand-up comedy side-hustle) of Reform Congregation Emanu-El in San Francisco gave the banquet her blessing, mentioning to the crowd that she and many other modern Jews have shifted their focus from kosher food to humanely, ethically, and sustainably raised meat. In fact, the pork and rabbit we ate that night was donated by the Jewish farmers from Devil's Gulch Ranch who practice exactly that on the Northern California coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some Jews like Wall, eating pork is actually a part of their Jewish identity. As a child during the Holocaust, Wall's mother hid with a pork-eating Catholic family in Poland. She \u003ca href=\"https://porkmemoirs.com/2011/12/30/surviving-on-raw-bacon-in-wartime-poland/\">ate the raw bacon meals\u003c/a> that she was served. When she came to America, eating pork was a symbol of nostalgia for her, and eating \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> foods became a part of Wall's connection to her Jewishness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever happened during that first \u003cem>treyf\u003c/em> banquet, many Jews know how they \u003cem>feel \u003c/em>about the idea of what happened that night. Which invites the modern dilemma Americans face today: Do feelings or facts matter more?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which got me thinking about the way the treyf diet has been marketed. What if the reformed kosher diet was rebranded as \"Jewish-American fusion?\" Would the Jewish community be supportive of more treyf dinner parties? Who doesn't love a good fusion restaurant?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "At Christmas, The Swedish Smörgåsbord Redefines Over The Top",
"title": "At Christmas, The Swedish Smörgåsbord Redefines Over The Top",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Ask any Swede and they'll tell you that a smörgåsbord table without herring is (gasp) unthinkable. While there are other foods they may rattle off as equally important ––gravlax, cured ham, meatballs and rice pudding –– it's these tiny, pickled fish that are the backbone of the elaborate buffet, which likely traces its roots back to high-society gatherings in the 1500s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The spread was smaller then, and was called the \"aquavite buffet.\" Since people were traveling long distances, it was a way to entertain guests, mostly men in earlier times, while waiting for stragglers. A separate table was set up in a side room with savory bites that could be enjoyed while standing along with glasses of aquavit –– made from potato or grains and cured with herbs like caraway, dill, fennel, coriander and anise. \u003ca href=\"http://kokblog.johannak.com/\">Johanna Kindvall\u003c/a>, writer and illustrator of the book\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/548259/smorgasbord-by-johanna-kindvall/9780399579097/\">Smörgåsbord\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, says it's possible the tradition was borrowed from the Russians who liked to mingle around eating caviar, herring and vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That snack grew into a meal — and that meal grew into what it is today: a smörgåsbord, a table set with seemingly every iconic dish known to Sweden. First introduced to America by the Swedish delegation at the 1939 World's Fair in Flushing, Queens, the smörgåsbord meal is traditionally served on Dec. 24, when it's called the \u003cem>julbord\u003c/em> — or Christmas table. Over time it extended its reach and became the default celebratory meal served at holidays like Mother's Day and Easter, at hotels, in train stations and restaurants, and of course, the home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're lucky enough to get invited to a traditional smörgåsbord meal, you should know that there are as many rules as there are dishes. If you're Swedish, these rules are instilled from a very early age and are as instinctual as breathing, or the umlaut. Long tables are buried under a sea of plates — sometimes placed at different heights to accommodate the sheer number. Your job will be to approach it with the restraint of someone who can take food or leave it, even if you're like me: a cured-fish fanatic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd.jpg\" alt=\"A seasoned smörgåsbord muncher will tell you: start with the herring. At the Swedish embassy, there were at least eight different herring dishes — from basil-lemon to vodka cucumber — laid out on this table.\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A seasoned smörgåsbord muncher will tell you: start with the herring. At the Swedish embassy, there were at least eight different herring dishes — from basil-lemon to vodka cucumber — laid out on this table. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The trick is to take it easy, because if you overload [your plate] you don't get to the fourth course,\" says Kindvall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules are here to help. You start with herring and cheese, then dabble in seafood, gravlax, crawfish, shrimp and fish paté. The third round is cold cuts, ham, sausage, paté, salad and pickles and the fourth is warm dishes, meatballs and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/5707-janssons-temptation\">Jansson's Temptation\u003c/a> — a potato casserole with cured sprats (a forage fish-like herring). And then there's dessert. Who has room for dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Swedish embassy in Washington, D.C., which hosts an invitation-only Christmas table for 1,000 guests every December, chef Frida Johansson (and her team of one) begin prep work two months ahead of time. First up is glögg, a traditionally red drink that Johansson reimagines as a white drink. (No red drinks are allowed in the Embassy due to the white flooring.) Despite the heavy workload come December, the chef loves her job. \"I came for one year and seven years later I am still here,\" she says with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Americans agonize about holiday shopping, in Sweden they're too busy cooking. \"We spent the whole December preparing for the feast,\" says Kindvall, recalling her childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123787\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6.jpg\" alt=\"Ham is often considered a star of the julbord, seen here at the Swedish embassy. Aquavit chef Emma Bengtsson says as a child, she loved her mother's Christmas ham: It was "really, really good. Other people would say it's dry as hell and overcooked, but that's what I grew up with. I can't eat it any other way."\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123787\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ham is often considered a star of the julbord, seen here at the Swedish embassy. Aquavit chef Emma Bengtsson says as a child, she loved her mother's Christmas ham: It was \"really, really good. Other people would say it's dry as hell and overcooked, but that's what I grew up with. I can't eat it any other way.\" \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This was a recurring theme. Emma Bengtsson, the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"https://www.aquavit.org/\">Aquavit\u003c/a>, a Scandinavian restaurant in midtown Manhattan that hosts an often sold-out series of weekend smörgåsbord meals, told me, \"It's pretty much a month of cooking. I just got off the phone with my mom this Sunday and she already started cooking for Christmas.\" The chef chuckled. It was Dec. 3. Bengston's elaborate preparations borrow heavily from her time working at \u003ca href=\"https://operakallaren.se/\">Operakällaren\u003c/a>, a Swedish restaurant that opened in 1787. The renowned restaurant is famous for its own meal, which is displayed on a special bronze table made just for the occasion. The wow effect is real.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hakan Swahn, the owner of Aquavit, which just celebrated its 30th anniversary, has equally fond memories of his mother's month-long efforts. \"It was very, very ritualistic. She pickled her own herrings, baked her own cookies and cake, and ham from scratch. As a child you always remember the whole procedure and you can't wait until Christmas because you can't eat anything beforehand.\" Like Bengtsson and Kindvall, he said his favorite dish was the ham.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123788\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb.jpg\" alt=\"This year's julbord at the Swedish embassy offered eight types of herring, 11 kinds of fish and cheese, 14 warm dishes, and finally, a diet-killing 30 desserts.\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123788\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This year's julbord at the Swedish embassy offered eight types of herring, 11 kinds of fish and cheese, 14 warm dishes, and finally, a diet-killing 30 desserts. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One more reason to moderate your eating as you make your way through the \u003cem>julbord:\u003c/em> so you last until dessert. \"It's a lot about the little candies,\" says Bengtsson, who served as Aquavit's pastry chef before ascending to executive chef. Think fudge, chocolate and marzipan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are the cookies — so many cookies: almond, gingerbread, caramel and chocolate — the list goes on and on. This is true in general, but outside of the home, at high-end restaurants like Aquavit, it is especially vast. The showstopper is a rice pudding called \u003cem>risgrynsgröt\u003c/em> made from Arborio rice, cinnamon, vanilla and whole cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I never understood it, but it's quite delicious,\" says Kindvall, of the over-the-top rich dessert after an already over-the-top meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382.jpg\" alt=\"Pace yourself: You'll want to leave room for dessert. Or should we say desserts?\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pace yourself: You'll want to leave room for dessert. Or should we say desserts? \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So next time you find yourself saying the word \"smörgåsbord\" to convey an extravagant array of foods, remember: It's not really a smörgåsbord unless it begins with herring and ends with ham. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "First rule of smörgåsbord: Pace yourself. You've got to make your way through dozens of dishes — fish courses, ham, cheeses, warm entrees. And don't forget dessert. Or should we say desserts?",
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"description": "First rule of smörgåsbord: Pace yourself. You've got to make your way through dozens of dishes — fish courses, ham, cheeses, warm entrees. And don't forget dessert. Or should we say desserts?",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Ask any Swede and they'll tell you that a smörgåsbord table without herring is (gasp) unthinkable. While there are other foods they may rattle off as equally important ––gravlax, cured ham, meatballs and rice pudding –– it's these tiny, pickled fish that are the backbone of the elaborate buffet, which likely traces its roots back to high-society gatherings in the 1500s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The spread was smaller then, and was called the \"aquavite buffet.\" Since people were traveling long distances, it was a way to entertain guests, mostly men in earlier times, while waiting for stragglers. A separate table was set up in a side room with savory bites that could be enjoyed while standing along with glasses of aquavit –– made from potato or grains and cured with herbs like caraway, dill, fennel, coriander and anise. \u003ca href=\"http://kokblog.johannak.com/\">Johanna Kindvall\u003c/a>, writer and illustrator of the book\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/548259/smorgasbord-by-johanna-kindvall/9780399579097/\">Smörgåsbord\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, says it's possible the tradition was borrowed from the Russians who liked to mingle around eating caviar, herring and vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That snack grew into a meal — and that meal grew into what it is today: a smörgåsbord, a table set with seemingly every iconic dish known to Sweden. First introduced to America by the Swedish delegation at the 1939 World's Fair in Flushing, Queens, the smörgåsbord meal is traditionally served on Dec. 24, when it's called the \u003cem>julbord\u003c/em> — or Christmas table. Over time it extended its reach and became the default celebratory meal served at holidays like Mother's Day and Easter, at hotels, in train stations and restaurants, and of course, the home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're lucky enough to get invited to a traditional smörgåsbord meal, you should know that there are as many rules as there are dishes. If you're Swedish, these rules are instilled from a very early age and are as instinctual as breathing, or the umlaut. Long tables are buried under a sea of plates — sometimes placed at different heights to accommodate the sheer number. Your job will be to approach it with the restraint of someone who can take food or leave it, even if you're like me: a cured-fish fanatic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123786\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd.jpg\" alt=\"A seasoned smörgåsbord muncher will tell you: start with the herring. At the Swedish embassy, there were at least eight different herring dishes — from basil-lemon to vodka cucumber — laid out on this table.\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123786\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9756_slide-6fe8201cd4b63d387464a754d352385ab6a906dd-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A seasoned smörgåsbord muncher will tell you: start with the herring. At the Swedish embassy, there were at least eight different herring dishes — from basil-lemon to vodka cucumber — laid out on this table. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The trick is to take it easy, because if you overload [your plate] you don't get to the fourth course,\" says Kindvall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules are here to help. You start with herring and cheese, then dabble in seafood, gravlax, crawfish, shrimp and fish paté. The third round is cold cuts, ham, sausage, paté, salad and pickles and the fourth is warm dishes, meatballs and \u003ca href=\"https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/5707-janssons-temptation\">Jansson's Temptation\u003c/a> — a potato casserole with cured sprats (a forage fish-like herring). And then there's dessert. Who has room for dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Swedish embassy in Washington, D.C., which hosts an invitation-only Christmas table for 1,000 guests every December, chef Frida Johansson (and her team of one) begin prep work two months ahead of time. First up is glögg, a traditionally red drink that Johansson reimagines as a white drink. (No red drinks are allowed in the Embassy due to the white flooring.) Despite the heavy workload come December, the chef loves her job. \"I came for one year and seven years later I am still here,\" she says with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Americans agonize about holiday shopping, in Sweden they're too busy cooking. \"We spent the whole December preparing for the feast,\" says Kindvall, recalling her childhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123787\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6.jpg\" alt=\"Ham is often considered a star of the julbord, seen here at the Swedish embassy. Aquavit chef Emma Bengtsson says as a child, she loved her mother's Christmas ham: It was "really, really good. Other people would say it's dry as hell and overcooked, but that's what I grew up with. I can't eat it any other way."\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123787\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9707_slide-1259f6b96ca69d0f013d3cfe09e2c4a23ae0fbe6-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ham is often considered a star of the julbord, seen here at the Swedish embassy. Aquavit chef Emma Bengtsson says as a child, she loved her mother's Christmas ham: It was \"really, really good. Other people would say it's dry as hell and overcooked, but that's what I grew up with. I can't eat it any other way.\" \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This was a recurring theme. Emma Bengtsson, the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"https://www.aquavit.org/\">Aquavit\u003c/a>, a Scandinavian restaurant in midtown Manhattan that hosts an often sold-out series of weekend smörgåsbord meals, told me, \"It's pretty much a month of cooking. I just got off the phone with my mom this Sunday and she already started cooking for Christmas.\" The chef chuckled. It was Dec. 3. Bengston's elaborate preparations borrow heavily from her time working at \u003ca href=\"https://operakallaren.se/\">Operakällaren\u003c/a>, a Swedish restaurant that opened in 1787. The renowned restaurant is famous for its own meal, which is displayed on a special bronze table made just for the occasion. The wow effect is real.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hakan Swahn, the owner of Aquavit, which just celebrated its 30th anniversary, has equally fond memories of his mother's month-long efforts. \"It was very, very ritualistic. She pickled her own herrings, baked her own cookies and cake, and ham from scratch. As a child you always remember the whole procedure and you can't wait until Christmas because you can't eat anything beforehand.\" Like Bengtsson and Kindvall, he said his favorite dish was the ham.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123788\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb.jpg\" alt=\"This year's julbord at the Swedish embassy offered eight types of herring, 11 kinds of fish and cheese, 14 warm dishes, and finally, a diet-killing 30 desserts.\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123788\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9736_slide-c4f5adffb4b2b9c06bdbe9f156d9a2922a3923fb-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This year's julbord at the Swedish embassy offered eight types of herring, 11 kinds of fish and cheese, 14 warm dishes, and finally, a diet-killing 30 desserts. \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One more reason to moderate your eating as you make your way through the \u003cem>julbord:\u003c/em> so you last until dessert. \"It's a lot about the little candies,\" says Bengtsson, who served as Aquavit's pastry chef before ascending to executive chef. Think fudge, chocolate and marzipan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are the cookies — so many cookies: almond, gingerbread, caramel and chocolate — the list goes on and on. This is true in general, but outside of the home, at high-end restaurants like Aquavit, it is especially vast. The showstopper is a rice pudding called \u003cem>risgrynsgröt\u003c/em> made from Arborio rice, cinnamon, vanilla and whole cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I never understood it, but it's quite delicious,\" says Kindvall, of the over-the-top rich dessert after an already over-the-top meal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_123789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2997px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382.jpg\" alt=\"Pace yourself: You'll want to leave room for dessert. Or should we say desserts?\" width=\"2997\" height=\"1998\" class=\"size-full wp-image-123789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382.jpg 2997w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/12/mg_9704_slide-4c605af43f8e8be38c8671dad2d4813083f95382-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2997px) 100vw, 2997px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pace yourself: You'll want to leave room for dessert. Or should we say desserts? \u003ccite>(Jennifer Kerrigan/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So next time you find yourself saying the word \"smörgåsbord\" to convey an extravagant array of foods, remember: It's not really a smörgåsbord unless it begins with herring and ends with ham. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Other Reformation: How Martin Luther Changed Our Beer, Too",
"title": "The Other Reformation: How Martin Luther Changed Our Beer, Too",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>On this day 500 years ago, an obscure Saxon monk launched a protest movement against the Catholic Church that would transform Europe. Martin Luther's Protestant Reformation changed not just the way Europeans lived, fought, worshipped, worked and created art but also how they ate and drank. For among the things it impacted was a drink beloved throughout the world and especially in Luther's native Germany: beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change in beer production was wrought by the pale green conical flower of a wildly prolific plant — hops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every hip craft brewery today peddling expensive hoppy beers owes a debt of gratitude to Luther and his followers for promoting the use of hops as an act of rebellion against the Catholic Church. But why did Protestants decide to embrace this pretty flower, and what did it have to do with religious rebellion?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Therein foams a bitter pint of history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 16th century, the Catholic Church had a stranglehold on beer production, since it held the monopoly on \u003cem>gruit\u003c/em> — the mixture of herbs and botanicals (sweet gale, mug wort, yarrow, ground ivy, heather, rosemary, juniper berries, ginger, cinnamon) used to flavor and preserve beer. Hops, however, were not taxed. Considered undesirable weeds, they grew plentifully and vigorously — their invasive nature captured by their melodic Latin name, \u003cem>Humulus lupulus \u003c/em>(which the music-loving Luther would have loved), which means \"climbing wolf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The church didn't like hops,\" says William Bostwick, the beer critic for\u003cem> The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Wall Street Journal \u003c/em>and author of\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Tale-History-World-According/dp/B00TXPCMEU\">The Brewer's Tale: A History of the World According to Beer\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \"One reason was that the 12th century German mystic and abbess Hildegard had pronounced that hops were not very good for you, because they 'make the soul of a man sad and weigh down his inner organs.' So, if you were a Protestant brewer and wanted to thumb your nose at Catholicism, you used hops instead of herbs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even before the Reformation, German princes had been moving toward hops — in 1516, for instance, a Bavarian law mandated that beer could be made only with hops, water and barley. But Luther's revolt gave the weed a significant boost. The fact that hops were tax-free constituted only part of the draw. Hops had other qualities that appealed to the new movement; chiefly, their excellent preservative qualities. \"All herbs and spices have preservative qualities, but with hops, beer could travel really well, so it became a unit of international trade that symbolized the growing business class, which was tangentially connected with the Protestant work ethic and capitalism,\" says Bostwick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another virtue in hops' favor was their sedative properties. The mystic Hildegard was right in saying hops weighed down one's innards. \"I sleep six or seven hours running, and afterwards two or three. I am sure it is owing to the beer,\" wrote Luther to his wife, Katharina, from the town of Torgau, renowned for its beer. The soporific, mellowing effect of hops might seem like a drawback, but in fact it offered a welcome alternative to many of the spices and herbs used by the church that had hallucinogenic and aphrodisiacal properties. \"Fueled by these potent concoctions, church ales could be as boisterous as the Germanic drinking bouts church elders once frowned on,\" writes Bostwick. \"And so, to distance themselves further from papal excesses, when Protestants drank beer they preferred it hopped.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the Catholic Church lost control over the printed word with the invention of the printing press — the technological weapon that ensured Luther's success — it lost control over beer with the rise of hops. \"The head went flat on monastic beer,\" says Bostwick. \"Did Protestantism explicitly promote hops? I don't think so. But did it encourage the use of hops? I would say, yes, probably.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122164\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Luther's wife, Katharina, was the brewer of the family.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122164\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-160x234.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-240x351.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-375x548.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-520x760.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luther's wife, Katharina, was the brewer of the family. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Luther Memorials Foundation of Saxony-Anhalt)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Luther would have relished his role in promoting hops. If anyone loved and appreciated good beer, it was this stout, sensual and gregarious monk. His letters often mentioned beer, whether it was the delicious Torgau beer that he extolled as finer than wine or the \"nasty\" Dessau beer that made him long for Katharina's homebrew. \"I keep thinking what good wine and beer I have at home, as well as a beautiful wife,\" he wrote. \"You would do well to send me over my whole cellar of wine and a bottle of thy beer.\" Days before he died, in February 1546, in one of his last letters to his wife, he praised Naumburg beer for its laxative properties. Luther suffered excruciating agonies from constipation, and it was therefore with immense satisfaction that he announced his \"three bowel movements\" that morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age where the water was unsafe, beer was drunk by everyone and was the nutritional and social fuel of Germany. \"It was a really natural and very common part of every household pantry,\" says Bostwick. \"I compare it these days to a pot of coffee always simmering on your countertop. Back then it was a kettle of beer. Beer was brewed less for pure enjoyment than for medicinal reasons (it incorporated herbs and spices) and for pure sustenance. Beers then were richer and heartier than today. They were a source of calories for the lower classes who did not have access to rich foods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, beer pops up at pivotal moments in Luther's life. Most notably, after taking on the formidable might of the Catholic Church, an unruffled Luther famously declared that God and the Word did everything, \"while I drank beer with my [friends] Philipp and Amsdorf.\" Luther's teachings were mocked as \"sour beer,\" and one of his critics disparaged him as a heretic from the filthy market town of Wittenberg, populated by \"a barbarous people who make their living from breweries and saloons.\" But as he gained fame and became a popular hero, a range of Lutheran merchandise was launched, including beer mugs featuring the pope as the Antichrist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the excommunicated Luther married the runaway nun Katharina von Bora, the town council gave the couple a barrel of excellent Einbeck beer. It was a fitting gift. Beer was soon to assume an even more central role in Luther's life, thanks to his wife. The intelligent, talented and exceptionally competent Katharina not only bore six children and managed the Luthers' large household with its endless stream of guests but also planted a vegetable garden and fruit trees, raised cows and pigs, had a fish pond, drove a wagon, and — to her husband's undying delight — opened a brewery that produced thousands of pints of beer each year. Her initial shaky attempts produced a thin, weak brew, but she soon got the hang of it and learned exactly how much malt to add to suit her husband's taste. Luther was ecstatic — Lord Katie, as he affectionately called her, had assured him a steady supply even when Wittenberg's breweries ran dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luther's favorite spot to hold forth on theology, philosophy and life in general was not the tavern but the table. The long refectory table in the cavernous Luther home seated up to 50 people. \"This was Luther's especial domain,\" writes Andrew Pettegree in his elegant biography \u003cem>Brand Luther: How an Unheralded Monk Turned History\u003c/em>. \"The day's labors past, he would sit with his friends and talk. Fueled by his wife's excellent beer, conversation would become general, discursive, and sometimes unbuttoned.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unbuttoned is an understatement. Voluble, energetic and beery, Luther's conversation zigged and zagged between the sublime and the scatological, to the amazement of his students, who hung on his every word. The church was called a brothel and the pope the Antichrist. Former popes \"farted like the devil\" and were sodomites and transvestites. His students collected these jewels into a book called \u003cem>Table Talk\u003c/em>. When it was published, it went viral.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But though he clearly loved his tankard, there is no record of Luther being a lush. In fact, he could be quite a scold when it came to drunken behavior. He lamented the German addiction to beer, saying, \"such an eternal thirst, I am afraid, will remain as Germany's plague until the Last Day.\" And he once declared, \"I wish brewing had never been invented, for a great deal of grain is consumed to make it, and nothing good is brewed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was no doubt a spot of grandstanding. For all his protestations, Luther's beer stein was always full. He loved local beer, boasted of his wife's brewing skills, and launched a movement that helped promote hops. Does that make him a patron saint of the craft brewery?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Luther might blanch a bit as a good Protestant at being called a saint,\" points out Bostwick, \"and there's already a brewery saint called St. Arnold, who saved his congregation from the plague by making them drink beer. In the interests of Protestantism, I wouldn't call him a saint, but he was certainly a beer enthusiast, and many a beer bar and brewery today has a picture of Martin Luther on their wall. So let's say that while we certainly don't genuflect to him, he's known and appreciated.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hoppy Quincentennial, Martin Luther!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The protest movement Luther launched 500 years ago revamped not only how Europe worshipped but how it drank. We'd call him the patron saint of beer except, well, he wouldn't like the \"saint\" part.",
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"description": "The protest movement Luther launched 500 years ago revamped not only how Europe worshipped but how it drank. We'd call him the patron saint of beer except, well, he wouldn't like the "saint" part.",
"title": "The Other Reformation: How Martin Luther Changed Our Beer, Too | KQED",
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"headline": "The Other Reformation: How Martin Luther Changed Our Beer, Too",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On this day 500 years ago, an obscure Saxon monk launched a protest movement against the Catholic Church that would transform Europe. Martin Luther's Protestant Reformation changed not just the way Europeans lived, fought, worshipped, worked and created art but also how they ate and drank. For among the things it impacted was a drink beloved throughout the world and especially in Luther's native Germany: beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The change in beer production was wrought by the pale green conical flower of a wildly prolific plant — hops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every hip craft brewery today peddling expensive hoppy beers owes a debt of gratitude to Luther and his followers for promoting the use of hops as an act of rebellion against the Catholic Church. But why did Protestants decide to embrace this pretty flower, and what did it have to do with religious rebellion?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Therein foams a bitter pint of history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 16th century, the Catholic Church had a stranglehold on beer production, since it held the monopoly on \u003cem>gruit\u003c/em> — the mixture of herbs and botanicals (sweet gale, mug wort, yarrow, ground ivy, heather, rosemary, juniper berries, ginger, cinnamon) used to flavor and preserve beer. Hops, however, were not taxed. Considered undesirable weeds, they grew plentifully and vigorously — their invasive nature captured by their melodic Latin name, \u003cem>Humulus lupulus \u003c/em>(which the music-loving Luther would have loved), which means \"climbing wolf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The church didn't like hops,\" says William Bostwick, the beer critic for\u003cem> The\u003c/em> \u003cem>Wall Street Journal \u003c/em>and author of\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Tale-History-World-According/dp/B00TXPCMEU\">The Brewer's Tale: A History of the World According to Beer\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \"One reason was that the 12th century German mystic and abbess Hildegard had pronounced that hops were not very good for you, because they 'make the soul of a man sad and weigh down his inner organs.' So, if you were a Protestant brewer and wanted to thumb your nose at Catholicism, you used hops instead of herbs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even before the Reformation, German princes had been moving toward hops — in 1516, for instance, a Bavarian law mandated that beer could be made only with hops, water and barley. But Luther's revolt gave the weed a significant boost. The fact that hops were tax-free constituted only part of the draw. Hops had other qualities that appealed to the new movement; chiefly, their excellent preservative qualities. \"All herbs and spices have preservative qualities, but with hops, beer could travel really well, so it became a unit of international trade that symbolized the growing business class, which was tangentially connected with the Protestant work ethic and capitalism,\" says Bostwick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another virtue in hops' favor was their sedative properties. The mystic Hildegard was right in saying hops weighed down one's innards. \"I sleep six or seven hours running, and afterwards two or three. I am sure it is owing to the beer,\" wrote Luther to his wife, Katharina, from the town of Torgau, renowned for its beer. The soporific, mellowing effect of hops might seem like a drawback, but in fact it offered a welcome alternative to many of the spices and herbs used by the church that had hallucinogenic and aphrodisiacal properties. \"Fueled by these potent concoctions, church ales could be as boisterous as the Germanic drinking bouts church elders once frowned on,\" writes Bostwick. \"And so, to distance themselves further from papal excesses, when Protestants drank beer they preferred it hopped.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the Catholic Church lost control over the printed word with the invention of the printing press — the technological weapon that ensured Luther's success — it lost control over beer with the rise of hops. \"The head went flat on monastic beer,\" says Bostwick. \"Did Protestantism explicitly promote hops? I don't think so. But did it encourage the use of hops? I would say, yes, probably.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122164\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Luther's wife, Katharina, was the brewer of the family.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122164\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-160x234.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-240x351.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-375x548.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/ext_201512180022_custom-90979e6dd576eff43d1bcf5b8f02381b227a2c06-s700-c85-520x760.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Luther's wife, Katharina, was the brewer of the family. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Luther Memorials Foundation of Saxony-Anhalt)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Luther would have relished his role in promoting hops. If anyone loved and appreciated good beer, it was this stout, sensual and gregarious monk. His letters often mentioned beer, whether it was the delicious Torgau beer that he extolled as finer than wine or the \"nasty\" Dessau beer that made him long for Katharina's homebrew. \"I keep thinking what good wine and beer I have at home, as well as a beautiful wife,\" he wrote. \"You would do well to send me over my whole cellar of wine and a bottle of thy beer.\" Days before he died, in February 1546, in one of his last letters to his wife, he praised Naumburg beer for its laxative properties. Luther suffered excruciating agonies from constipation, and it was therefore with immense satisfaction that he announced his \"three bowel movements\" that morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age where the water was unsafe, beer was drunk by everyone and was the nutritional and social fuel of Germany. \"It was a really natural and very common part of every household pantry,\" says Bostwick. \"I compare it these days to a pot of coffee always simmering on your countertop. Back then it was a kettle of beer. Beer was brewed less for pure enjoyment than for medicinal reasons (it incorporated herbs and spices) and for pure sustenance. Beers then were richer and heartier than today. They were a source of calories for the lower classes who did not have access to rich foods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not surprisingly, beer pops up at pivotal moments in Luther's life. Most notably, after taking on the formidable might of the Catholic Church, an unruffled Luther famously declared that God and the Word did everything, \"while I drank beer with my [friends] Philipp and Amsdorf.\" Luther's teachings were mocked as \"sour beer,\" and one of his critics disparaged him as a heretic from the filthy market town of Wittenberg, populated by \"a barbarous people who make their living from breweries and saloons.\" But as he gained fame and became a popular hero, a range of Lutheran merchandise was launched, including beer mugs featuring the pope as the Antichrist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the excommunicated Luther married the runaway nun Katharina von Bora, the town council gave the couple a barrel of excellent Einbeck beer. It was a fitting gift. Beer was soon to assume an even more central role in Luther's life, thanks to his wife. The intelligent, talented and exceptionally competent Katharina not only bore six children and managed the Luthers' large household with its endless stream of guests but also planted a vegetable garden and fruit trees, raised cows and pigs, had a fish pond, drove a wagon, and — to her husband's undying delight — opened a brewery that produced thousands of pints of beer each year. Her initial shaky attempts produced a thin, weak brew, but she soon got the hang of it and learned exactly how much malt to add to suit her husband's taste. Luther was ecstatic — Lord Katie, as he affectionately called her, had assured him a steady supply even when Wittenberg's breweries ran dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Luther's favorite spot to hold forth on theology, philosophy and life in general was not the tavern but the table. The long refectory table in the cavernous Luther home seated up to 50 people. \"This was Luther's especial domain,\" writes Andrew Pettegree in his elegant biography \u003cem>Brand Luther: How an Unheralded Monk Turned History\u003c/em>. \"The day's labors past, he would sit with his friends and talk. Fueled by his wife's excellent beer, conversation would become general, discursive, and sometimes unbuttoned.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unbuttoned is an understatement. Voluble, energetic and beery, Luther's conversation zigged and zagged between the sublime and the scatological, to the amazement of his students, who hung on his every word. The church was called a brothel and the pope the Antichrist. Former popes \"farted like the devil\" and were sodomites and transvestites. His students collected these jewels into a book called \u003cem>Table Talk\u003c/em>. When it was published, it went viral.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But though he clearly loved his tankard, there is no record of Luther being a lush. In fact, he could be quite a scold when it came to drunken behavior. He lamented the German addiction to beer, saying, \"such an eternal thirst, I am afraid, will remain as Germany's plague until the Last Day.\" And he once declared, \"I wish brewing had never been invented, for a great deal of grain is consumed to make it, and nothing good is brewed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was no doubt a spot of grandstanding. For all his protestations, Luther's beer stein was always full. He loved local beer, boasted of his wife's brewing skills, and launched a movement that helped promote hops. Does that make him a patron saint of the craft brewery?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Luther might blanch a bit as a good Protestant at being called a saint,\" points out Bostwick, \"and there's already a brewery saint called St. Arnold, who saved his congregation from the plague by making them drink beer. In the interests of Protestantism, I wouldn't call him a saint, but he was certainly a beer enthusiast, and many a beer bar and brewery today has a picture of Martin Luther on their wall. So let's say that while we certainly don't genuflect to him, he's known and appreciated.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hoppy Quincentennial, Martin Luther!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"marketplace": {
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"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
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"source": "American Public Media"
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"masters-of-scale": {
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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"morning-edition": {
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
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"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"on-the-media": {
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"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
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},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
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"order": 14
},
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"order": 5
},
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
"link": "/radio/program/possible",
"subscribe": {
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"spotify": "https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"
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},
"pri-the-world": {
"id": "pri-the-world",
"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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"source": "PRI"
},
"link": "/radio/program/pri-the-world",
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"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/podcasts/News--Politics-Podcasts/PRIs-The-World-p24/",
"rss": "http://feeds.feedburner.com/pri/theworld"
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
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