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"disqusTitle": "King Friday: Three Kings Cake",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/king-friday.jpg\" alt=\"king friday\" title=\"king friday\" width=\"231\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9896\">A couple of weeks ago at work, our pastry chef, Guillermo, brought up a large, round cake from the pastry kitchen downstairs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone quickly descended upon it. It was devoured within minutes of its initial appearance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Tell me if you find the bean!,\" he said to the staff as they crowded around the cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I had never encountered a King's Cake in person, I had seen them eaten on occasion in European films during my college days. I knew that the lucky fellow or fellowess that found the bean would be crowned \"King/Queen for a Day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted that bean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I took a bite of the yeasty cake. I tasted cinnamon, I tasted orange water, but nothing that might chip my front tooth like a hard bean or a plastic baby, which are sometimes used. Then I took another bite...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was no crunch, no cracking of enamel, just a hint of something with a little less give than the bready cake that surrounded it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found the bean. Though it was nearly 10 pm, I knew that I was going to be king for the next two hours. I wanted to make the most of it, issuing decrees to my fellow staff members. \"We command you to run our drinks to table 41.\" \"We feel that the emptying out of ice buckets is beneath us.\" How I longed to have a legitimate excuse to use the royal \"we\".\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I told Guillermo that I had found the bean, I wondered aloud where my crown was. \"Sorry,\" he said, \"no crowns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So what do I get then?\" I asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our executive chef looked at me, laughed, and said, \"You get to buy Mexican coke and tamales for the entire kitchen staff.\" I learned the hard way how hard life must be for other royals, what with all that responsibility of feeding the masses and what not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, I learned that there were two other beans planted in that cake, which not only tied in nicely with the story of the appearance of The Three Kings, or Magi (which is how this whole Epiphany business got started), but cut my portion of the gifting down to one third. Delightful. And it's supposed to bring me good luck for the rest of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to some traditions, since I found the bean, it is now my turn to make a King's cake. Some cultures only make them for the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epiphany_(holiday)\">Feast of the Epiphany\u003c/a>, others, like the notoriously celebratory denizens of New Orleans, see Epiphany as more or less the kick-off to a month of parties that lead up to Mardi Gras. I'm siding with New Orleans here, since that means I'm well within the King's Cake zone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Three Kings\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/babyjesus-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"babyjesus\" title=\"babyjesus\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9899\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/elvis-presley-wall1-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"elvis-presley-wall1\" title=\"elvis-presley-wall1\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9900\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/DrMartinLutherKingJr-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"DrMartinLutherKingJr\" title=\"DrMartinLutherKingJr\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9901\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When thinking about this cake, I realized something significant-- January is rather king-heavy in its celebrations. At the beginning of the month, we've got the baby Jesus, who some call the King of Kings; right after that comes the birthday of Elvis, the King of rock and roll; and, finally, there is Martin Luther King, Jr. Holiday. Three kings. Count 'em.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was all \u003cem>too\u003c/em> perfect to pass up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than make a straightforward, Jesus-oriented King's cake cake, I could celebrate all three kings (Sorry, Carole King was born in February) by adding three different kinds of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/three-beans-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"three beans\" title=\"three beans\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9904\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ideally, I would have liked one of those plastic babies to stand in for Jesus, a quaalude for Elvis, and a little peace sign for Dr. King. However, I had concerns about them melting/dissolving and causing those who ate of the cake all sorts of problems and I can't afford another lawsuit this year, so I stuck to beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Play the Cake Game\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suggest you tell those who would consume this cake precisely which bean represents whom (It's your choice. Mix it up a little. I'm sure Dr. King, for example, would get awfully tired of always having to be the black bean. There should be \u003cstrong>no grey areas\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>no trading allowed\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once all three beans are found, each lucky finder will then be obligated to spend the rest of the day emulating the king he or she has found. For example, if one person finds the Jesus bean, she might take a stab at practicing forgiveness (especially to the baker of this cake, who is the person what got them into this situation in the first place). If another finds the Dr. King bean, he might perform an act in the name of civil rights. I do not recommend, however, that the finder of the Elvis bean start dating underage girls. Perhaps a song or a little swiveling of the hips would be more appropriate. Do what you want-- you baked the cake, so you get to set the rules, king maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How's that for absolute power?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/finished-king-cake.jpg\" alt=\"finished king cake\" title=\"finished king cake\" width=\"256\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9905\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Three Kings' Cake\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my own, made-up version of the Mexican King Cake, \u003cem>Rosca de Reyes\u003c/em>, but done Sicilian style, because, well, I'm Sicilian. More correctly, I am slightly less that 1/4 Sicilian, but that's the part of the family which dominated family holidays, so that's what I'm going with. To my knowledge, no one in my family has ever bothered with such a dessert before. Not even the mass-attending, fish-on-Fridays older generations. Hell, I didn't even know what 12th Night was until I was old enough to run for president.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the things I liked about the \u003cstrong>Rosca de Reyes\u003c/strong> that my friend Guillermo made was its subtlety, both in flavor and in decoration-- all the other King Cakes I've tried have been either sickeningly sweet or frightfully/delightfully garish, like the ones that come out of \u003ca href=\"http://whereyat.wordpress.com/2010/01/06/an-epiphany/\">New Orleans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>King cakes come in so many styles and flavors that there is no one correct way to go about it. Experiment a little, why don't you? That's what I did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 to 6 cups all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 eggs, plus 1 egg for glazing, all room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup granulated sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup milk, scalded then cooled to lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 ounce dry active yeast (1 packet)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon almond extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>the zest of 1 orange\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon anise seed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon orange flower water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>slivered almonds for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>dried figs, slivered, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turbinado sugar for garnish. Turbinado-- I remember a friend of mind telling me in a low, throaty voice, that it would be his drag name, but that is another story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>AND THREE BEANS\u003c/strong>, your choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Scald milk and let cool down to luke warm. Sprinkle yeast over the milk and let sit for about ten minutes to let it \"bloom.\" Melt butter and let cool to warm, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In the bowl of your electric mixer (it can, of course, be done by hand, too, but why bother if you can avoid it?), combine the butter and sugar using the paddle attachment that should have hopefully come with your machine. Add the three eggs and beat well-- until light, but not too frothy. Add vanilla and almond extracts, orange zest, and orange blossom water. \u003cstrong>Replace paddle attachment with dough hook.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In a separate bowl, combine flour, salt, and anise seed. Gradually add these dry ingredients to the wet ones and knead until the dough forms a loose, sticky ball. Place dough in a large lightly oiled, clean bowl, cover it with a moistened (clean) cloth and let sit somewhere warm until it has doubled in size (about an hour and a half). I prefer the inside of my turned-off oven myself. And you?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Turn dough out onto a floured work surface. If the dough seems a little too sticky or loose to work with at this point, just add more flour. If you're adding a lot more flour, add a little more sugar, too while you're at it. The dough should be workable, but not dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Place some sort of heat-proof bowl or other such roundish item at the center of a parchment (or better, silpat) lined baking sheet. Brush or rub the bowl lightly with butter or oil to prevent sticking. Roll the dough with your hands to make a rather thickish rope and wrap it around the bowl, tucking one of the ends under the other. If there are strange little folds or creases, it doesn't matter-- they will work themselves out in the end. And don't fret about using all of the dough. I did not-- it won't all quite fit into a baking sheet, so there is some to discard of find other, novel uses for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Let the dough rise again, just as one of these three kings as promised to do. Fortunately, one only has to wait about 40 minutes to an hour for the bread, not 2,000 years like the Christians have been doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/unbaked-king-cake-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"unbaked king cake\" title=\"unbaked king cake\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9893\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. When sufficiently risen, lightly brush the surface of your dough ring with an egg wash (the remaining egg beaten with about a tablespoon of water). Decorate with dried figs, almonds, and Turbinado sugar. \u003cstrong>Tuck the three beans into the underside of the dough at various intervals.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Bake in a 375° oven until done. I know this sounds vague, but it depends entirely upon how large you decide to make your cake. This particular cake will take anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour. Give it a little check at around minute 35 or so. Essentially, when it smells done, it's done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. When sufficiently cooled, inflict this cake upon your friends and loved ones, all the while preparing yourself for retribution.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "January is rather king-heavy in its celebrations. At the beginning of the month, we've got the baby Jesus, who some call the King of Kings; right after that comes the birthday of Elvis, the King of rock and roll; and, finally, there is Martin Luther King, jr. Holiday. Three kings. Count 'em.\r\n\r\nIt was all \u003cem>too\u003c/em> perfect to pass up.\r\n\r\nRather than make a straightforward, Jesus-oriented King's cake cake, I could celebrate all three kings by adding three different kinds of beans.\r\n\r\n",
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"description": "January is rather king-heavy in its celebrations. At the beginning of the month, we've got the baby Jesus, who some call the King of Kings; right after that comes the birthday of Elvis, the King of rock and roll; and, finally, there is Martin Luther King, jr. Holiday. Three kings. Count 'em.\r\n\r\nIt was all too perfect to pass up.\r\n\r\nRather than make a straightforward, Jesus-oriented King's cake cake, I could celebrate all three kings by adding three different kinds of beans.\r\n\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/king-friday.jpg\" alt=\"king friday\" title=\"king friday\" width=\"231\" height=\"250\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9896\">A couple of weeks ago at work, our pastry chef, Guillermo, brought up a large, round cake from the pastry kitchen downstairs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone quickly descended upon it. It was devoured within minutes of its initial appearance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Tell me if you find the bean!,\" he said to the staff as they crowded around the cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I had never encountered a King's Cake in person, I had seen them eaten on occasion in European films during my college days. I knew that the lucky fellow or fellowess that found the bean would be crowned \"King/Queen for a Day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted that bean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I took a bite of the yeasty cake. I tasted cinnamon, I tasted orange water, but nothing that might chip my front tooth like a hard bean or a plastic baby, which are sometimes used. Then I took another bite...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was no crunch, no cracking of enamel, just a hint of something with a little less give than the bready cake that surrounded it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found the bean. Though it was nearly 10 pm, I knew that I was going to be king for the next two hours. I wanted to make the most of it, issuing decrees to my fellow staff members. \"We command you to run our drinks to table 41.\" \"We feel that the emptying out of ice buckets is beneath us.\" How I longed to have a legitimate excuse to use the royal \"we\".\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I told Guillermo that I had found the bean, I wondered aloud where my crown was. \"Sorry,\" he said, \"no crowns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So what do I get then?\" I asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our executive chef looked at me, laughed, and said, \"You get to buy Mexican coke and tamales for the entire kitchen staff.\" I learned the hard way how hard life must be for other royals, what with all that responsibility of feeding the masses and what not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, I learned that there were two other beans planted in that cake, which not only tied in nicely with the story of the appearance of The Three Kings, or Magi (which is how this whole Epiphany business got started), but cut my portion of the gifting down to one third. Delightful. And it's supposed to bring me good luck for the rest of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to some traditions, since I found the bean, it is now my turn to make a King's cake. Some cultures only make them for the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epiphany_(holiday)\">Feast of the Epiphany\u003c/a>, others, like the notoriously celebratory denizens of New Orleans, see Epiphany as more or less the kick-off to a month of parties that lead up to Mardi Gras. I'm siding with New Orleans here, since that means I'm well within the King's Cake zone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Three Kings\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/babyjesus-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"babyjesus\" title=\"babyjesus\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9899\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/elvis-presley-wall1-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"elvis-presley-wall1\" title=\"elvis-presley-wall1\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9900\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/DrMartinLutherKingJr-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"DrMartinLutherKingJr\" title=\"DrMartinLutherKingJr\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-9901\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When thinking about this cake, I realized something significant-- January is rather king-heavy in its celebrations. At the beginning of the month, we've got the baby Jesus, who some call the King of Kings; right after that comes the birthday of Elvis, the King of rock and roll; and, finally, there is Martin Luther King, Jr. Holiday. Three kings. Count 'em.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was all \u003cem>too\u003c/em> perfect to pass up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than make a straightforward, Jesus-oriented King's cake cake, I could celebrate all three kings (Sorry, Carole King was born in February) by adding three different kinds of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/three-beans-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"three beans\" title=\"three beans\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9904\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ideally, I would have liked one of those plastic babies to stand in for Jesus, a quaalude for Elvis, and a little peace sign for Dr. King. However, I had concerns about them melting/dissolving and causing those who ate of the cake all sorts of problems and I can't afford another lawsuit this year, so I stuck to beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How to Play the Cake Game\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suggest you tell those who would consume this cake precisely which bean represents whom (It's your choice. Mix it up a little. I'm sure Dr. King, for example, would get awfully tired of always having to be the black bean. There should be \u003cstrong>no grey areas\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>no trading allowed\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once all three beans are found, each lucky finder will then be obligated to spend the rest of the day emulating the king he or she has found. For example, if one person finds the Jesus bean, she might take a stab at practicing forgiveness (especially to the baker of this cake, who is the person what got them into this situation in the first place). If another finds the Dr. King bean, he might perform an act in the name of civil rights. I do not recommend, however, that the finder of the Elvis bean start dating underage girls. Perhaps a song or a little swiveling of the hips would be more appropriate. Do what you want-- you baked the cake, so you get to set the rules, king maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How's that for absolute power?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/finished-king-cake.jpg\" alt=\"finished king cake\" title=\"finished king cake\" width=\"256\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9905\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Three Kings' Cake\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is my own, made-up version of the Mexican King Cake, \u003cem>Rosca de Reyes\u003c/em>, but done Sicilian style, because, well, I'm Sicilian. More correctly, I am slightly less that 1/4 Sicilian, but that's the part of the family which dominated family holidays, so that's what I'm going with. To my knowledge, no one in my family has ever bothered with such a dessert before. Not even the mass-attending, fish-on-Fridays older generations. Hell, I didn't even know what 12th Night was until I was old enough to run for president.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the things I liked about the \u003cstrong>Rosca de Reyes\u003c/strong> that my friend Guillermo made was its subtlety, both in flavor and in decoration-- all the other King Cakes I've tried have been either sickeningly sweet or frightfully/delightfully garish, like the ones that come out of \u003ca href=\"http://whereyat.wordpress.com/2010/01/06/an-epiphany/\">New Orleans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>King cakes come in so many styles and flavors that there is no one correct way to go about it. Experiment a little, why don't you? That's what I did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 to 6 cups all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 eggs, plus 1 egg for glazing, all room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup granulated sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup milk, scalded then cooled to lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 ounce dry active yeast (1 packet)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon almond extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>the zest of 1 orange\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon anise seed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon orange flower water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>slivered almonds for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>dried figs, slivered, for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turbinado sugar for garnish. Turbinado-- I remember a friend of mind telling me in a low, throaty voice, that it would be his drag name, but that is another story.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>AND THREE BEANS\u003c/strong>, your choice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Scald milk and let cool down to luke warm. Sprinkle yeast over the milk and let sit for about ten minutes to let it \"bloom.\" Melt butter and let cool to warm, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In the bowl of your electric mixer (it can, of course, be done by hand, too, but why bother if you can avoid it?), combine the butter and sugar using the paddle attachment that should have hopefully come with your machine. Add the three eggs and beat well-- until light, but not too frothy. Add vanilla and almond extracts, orange zest, and orange blossom water. \u003cstrong>Replace paddle attachment with dough hook.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In a separate bowl, combine flour, salt, and anise seed. Gradually add these dry ingredients to the wet ones and knead until the dough forms a loose, sticky ball. Place dough in a large lightly oiled, clean bowl, cover it with a moistened (clean) cloth and let sit somewhere warm until it has doubled in size (about an hour and a half). I prefer the inside of my turned-off oven myself. And you?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Turn dough out onto a floured work surface. If the dough seems a little too sticky or loose to work with at this point, just add more flour. If you're adding a lot more flour, add a little more sugar, too while you're at it. The dough should be workable, but not dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Place some sort of heat-proof bowl or other such roundish item at the center of a parchment (or better, silpat) lined baking sheet. Brush or rub the bowl lightly with butter or oil to prevent sticking. Roll the dough with your hands to make a rather thickish rope and wrap it around the bowl, tucking one of the ends under the other. If there are strange little folds or creases, it doesn't matter-- they will work themselves out in the end. And don't fret about using all of the dough. I did not-- it won't all quite fit into a baking sheet, so there is some to discard of find other, novel uses for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Let the dough rise again, just as one of these three kings as promised to do. Fortunately, one only has to wait about 40 minutes to an hour for the bread, not 2,000 years like the Christians have been doing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/unbaked-king-cake-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"unbaked king cake\" title=\"unbaked king cake\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-9893\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. When sufficiently risen, lightly brush the surface of your dough ring with an egg wash (the remaining egg beaten with about a tablespoon of water). Decorate with dried figs, almonds, and Turbinado sugar. \u003cstrong>Tuck the three beans into the underside of the dough at various intervals.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Bake in a 375° oven until done. I know this sounds vague, but it depends entirely upon how large you decide to make your cake. This particular cake will take anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour. Give it a little check at around minute 35 or so. Essentially, when it smells done, it's done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. When sufficiently cooled, inflict this cake upon your friends and loved ones, all the while preparing yourself for retribution.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Julie Powell: Video Interview and \"Cleaving\" Reading",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/julie-powell3b.jpg\" alt=\"Julie Powell at KQED reading from her book Cleaving - A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\" title=\"Julie Powell at KQED reading from her book Cleaving - A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8872\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie Powell visited KQED's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=26816\">The Writers' Block to record a reading\u003c/a> from her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0316003360/kqedorg-20\">\u003cem>Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. She was open to participating in a video interview and shared her thoughts about the importance of transparency in the process of transforming animals into meat; how the fame she received from Julie and Julia affected her career path and personal life; revealed some themes for her next fiction novel and showed us her tattoo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"480\" height=\"295\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/1p-QbF6IMJo&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/1p-QbF6IMJo&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"480\" height=\"295\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/julie-powell-tatt.jpg\" alt=\"Julie Powell tattoo Loufoque which translates from French to English meaning wild and crazy\" title=\"Julie Powell tattoo Loufoque which translates from French to English meaning wild and crazy\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julie Powell's tattoo \"Loufoque\" which translates from French to English as \"Crazy, Zany\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=26816\">Listen to Julie Powell's reading\u003c/a> at The Writers' Block\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0316069906/kqedorg-20\">Purchase \u003cem>Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession \u003c/em>\u003c/a> at Amazon.com\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/031604251X/kqedorg-20\">Purchase \u003cem>Julie and Julia: My Year of Cooking Dangerously\u003c/em>\u003c/a> at Amazon.com\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Julie-Powell/e/B001HCWYAO/ref=ntt_dp_epwbk_0\">Julie Powell's Amazon.com page\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.salon.com/0001399/\">The Julie/Julia Project:\u003c/a> Nobody here but us servantless American cooks...\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Julie Powell's blog: \u003ca href=\"http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/\">What Could Happen? \u003cem>Musings from a \"Libidinous Shrew\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Credits:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Video by Emmanuel Hapsis & Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photos by Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Julie Powell visited KQED's The Writers' Block to record a reading from her latest book, \u003cem>Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\u003c/em>. She was open to participating in a video interview and shared her thoughts about the importance of transparency in the process of transforming animals into meat; how the fame she received from Julie and Julia affected her career path and personal life; revealed some themes for her next fiction novel and showed us her tattoo.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/julie-powell3b.jpg\" alt=\"Julie Powell at KQED reading from her book Cleaving - A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\" title=\"Julie Powell at KQED reading from her book Cleaving - A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8872\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie Powell visited KQED's \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=26816\">The Writers' Block to record a reading\u003c/a> from her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0316003360/kqedorg-20\">\u003cem>Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. She was open to participating in a video interview and shared her thoughts about the importance of transparency in the process of transforming animals into meat; how the fame she received from Julie and Julia affected her career path and personal life; revealed some themes for her next fiction novel and showed us her tattoo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"480\" height=\"295\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/1p-QbF6IMJo&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/1p-QbF6IMJo&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"480\" height=\"295\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/julie-powell-tatt.jpg\" alt=\"Julie Powell tattoo Loufoque which translates from French to English meaning wild and crazy\" title=\"Julie Powell tattoo Loufoque which translates from French to English meaning wild and crazy\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Julie Powell's tattoo \"Loufoque\" which translates from French to English as \"Crazy, Zany\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Links:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/arts/programs/writersblock/episode.jsp?essid=26816\">Listen to Julie Powell's reading\u003c/a> at The Writers' Block\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0316069906/kqedorg-20\">Purchase \u003cem>Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession \u003c/em>\u003c/a> at Amazon.com\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/031604251X/kqedorg-20\">Purchase \u003cem>Julie and Julia: My Year of Cooking Dangerously\u003c/em>\u003c/a> at Amazon.com\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Julie-Powell/e/B001HCWYAO/ref=ntt_dp_epwbk_0\">Julie Powell's Amazon.com page\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://blogs.salon.com/0001399/\">The Julie/Julia Project:\u003c/a> Nobody here but us servantless American cooks...\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Julie Powell's blog: \u003ca href=\"http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/\">What Could Happen? \u003cem>Musings from a \"Libidinous Shrew\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Credits:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Video by Emmanuel Hapsis & Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photos by Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Cesare's Salad: Tossing My Own.",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8314\" title=\"caesar salad\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/caesar-salad.jpg\" alt=\"caesar salad\" width=\"350\" height=\"231\">I'm a sucker for a great Caesar salad. Call me old school, but there are few things that can beat it in my book. Garlicky, lemony, cheesy, and anchovy-y, if there is such a word. If there isn't, there should be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, a great restaurant Caesar salad has eluded me in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the possible exceptions of Zuni Café and Tadich Grill (both old school and old guard), I have been bitterly disappointed every time I order a Caesar salad in a restaurant. And the above venues merely create good salads, not, in my opinion, great ones. Yet I keep on ordering them everywhere I go. It's like forgetting the pain of childbirth or the tragedy of falling in love with a crazy sadist-- I fall blindly and hopefully back into bed with the salad section of the menu and think, \"This time, it's going to be good. This time I am going to find the one I've been waiting for all my life.\" Invariably, I am served a Romaine salad with either a flaccid, mayonnaise-like dressing, or an underdressed, uninspired one with croutons like ship biscuits that leaves me asking my server for a little extra lemon and another napkin with which I might dry my tears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I just live to be disappointed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, when discussing the demise of this salad with a friend over a lunch that included a particularly sorry looking one, I understood what all of these salads were missing, good and bad:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Drama.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Caesar salad is a dish that cries out for table-side service. It is, in my opinion if not in fact, the ham actor of the salad world-- a fact none too surprising when one considers that it was first created in a pique of impromptu by Cesare Cardini, an Italian man living in the once-glamorous town Tijuana, Mexico. Fortunately for us, Cardini had the good sense (or delicious folly, depending on your point of view) to seek out his fame and fortune in Hollywood, dressing recipe in hand, where the salad soon became a favorite among the local movie stars and luncheon élite. Cesare's salad soon evolved into Caesar's salad and, somewhere along the way, the apostrophe \"s\" was lost, and Caesar salads were being dramatically created in front of and for delighted diners in leather banquetted dining rooms and Danish Modern living rooms across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, Cesare's salad is going the way of Banana's Foster, Cherries Jubilee, and the dodo, thanks to the demise of table side service. There is little room in most restaurants today to manoeuver the necessary salad carts, and diners (with the possible exception of brief fads like the Benihana's craze of the 70's, and eating at chef's tables in the 90's) seem less interested in having a server who entertains. Lastly, and perhaps most sadly of all, those venues who do still provide table side cooking are often so old-fashioned and unchanging that they have become a sort of dwindling, petrified forest. And those diners who habituate them are either equally as fossilized or, at best, there solely for kitsch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So what can one do?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I, for one, have started making my own damned Caesar salads. Or Cesare salads, as I prefer now to call them. I can make them as obscenely garlicky as I like and can toss them as high and dramatically as my ceiling and physical abilities allow. I'm a professional waiter, after all, and one with a strong dramatic bent. Just ask anyone. Just don't ask me to make one for you at my restaurant-- there is no way in hell I could ever get that rolling cart past the drunken cougars hovering at the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lyle's Muy Fuerte Cesare's Salad:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 2 to 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At my birthday party last summer, I had decided that my own contribution to the buffet would be my favorite old-school salad, since I was now, officially (according to some people) old. It was then that I realized that I had never actually made one before. The one's I had known and loved were always made for me by people who understand gusto like my friend Shan or my ex-boyfriend Paul, who was about as theatrically dramatic as they come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I confessed this salad-tossing inexperience to my friend Lyle, he told me he would walk me through the entire process. Being my birthday, I let him take over, while I poured myself another glass of wine and watched him do all the work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe \u003cem>muy fuerte\u003c/em>-- extra garlic, extra anchovy, extra everything. Brash and unsubtle. In other words, just the way I like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I would suggest preparing this dish with at least one other person in the room when you first try it. Talk the entire time you are mashing, whisking, and tossing. Remember: you are the entertainment. If you don't have anyone on hand to chat with, I suggest, chatting up your pet. If you have no pet, bring a houseplant into your kitchen and talk to that. If you are lacking a house plant, you are more than likely not the type of person who would ever make a Caesar salad and are therefore not reading this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two heads of Romaine lettuce, well washed, outer leaves removed, and torn into bite-sized pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese. Please use the good stuff. Nothing that comes out of a shaker will do no matter how good a deal you got with that double coupon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole anchovies for garnish are entirely optional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 coddled egg. Yolk only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 anchovy filets (spanish, preferably)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of coarse salt (kosher is excellent)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juice of one half lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Worcestershire sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Tabasco sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons (approximate) of extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coarsely ground black pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For two cups of croutons (it is always a good idea to make extra):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups of day-old bread (french, sour, white-- take your pick), dried out a touch and cut into 3/4\" cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a heavy pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Coddle an Egg:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coddling the egg yolk lends a richer texture to the dressing by thickening it slightly, in case you were wondering. If you want a better scientific understanding of this process, ask a scientist. I prefer to live in ignorance and call it a miracle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring your egg (which should be very fresh) to room temperature by placing it in a heat-proof glass of warm water for a few minutes. When this temperature has been achieved, drain water and cover egg with boiling water. Let stand for exactly one minute. Drain. Run cold water over egg. Egg has now been thoroughly traumatized and is now ready for use in your dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Making the Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 375F. Drizzle butter/oil mixture over bread cubes while tossing cubes with your free hand (if you have no extra hand available, use someone else's.) Coat evenly but do try to avoid an absolute drenching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a single layer of bread cubes on a baking sheet and pop into the oven on the upper rack. Peek into oven at around 7 to 8 minutes into the process, shake and turn cubes. Remove from oven when cubes have become golden brown and therefore have officially attained crouton status*.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*To my mind, croutons should be very much like Lou Grant from The Mary Tyler Moore Show-- hard, crusty exterior, but soft and warm on the inside. They should, however, not smell strongly of bourbon in the middle of the afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Make the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8312\" title=\"anchovy and garlic\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/anchovy-and-garlic.jpg\" alt=\"anchovy and garlic\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place kosher salt, anchovy, and garlic in the bottom of a wooden bowl. Mash these ingredients together with the aid of two forks until a rough paste is formed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Next, add mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and lemon juice. Trade in the two forks for a wire whisk. Whisk until well-blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add coddled egg yolk to the mix and whisk with gusto for about one minute to allow the citric acid from the lemon to \"cook\" the yolk a little.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Slowly drizzle in olive oil from as great a height as you dare, for theatrical purposes. Pause occasionally to taste with a clean finger. Make dramatic noises as you do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8313\" title=\"falling romaine leaves\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/falling-romaine-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"falling romaine leaves\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Let the lettuce leaves rain down into your dressing-drenched wooden bowl. Do not add any sound effects at this point. With the two forks you had earlier cast aside or with larger, more festive, salad utensils, begin to toss the salad. Sprinkle in a little cheese here, a little there. Hum as you sprinkle. Something lilting and hopeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Add your croutons, tossing and humming all the more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Now add cracked black pepper to finish both the tossing of your salad and the incessant humming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. If serving directly from the salad bowl, sprinkle with a bit more cheese to garnish, if serving individually, divide equally among chilled plates, then add more cheese. Whatever you do, serve and eat immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I'm a sucker for a great Caesar salad. Call me old school, but there are few things that can beat it in my book. Garlicky, lemony, cheesy, and anchovy-y, if there is such a word. If there isn't, there should be.\r\n\r\nSadly, a great restaurant Caesar salad has eluded me in this city of ours.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-8314\" title=\"caesar salad\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/caesar-salad.jpg\" alt=\"caesar salad\" width=\"350\" height=\"231\">I'm a sucker for a great Caesar salad. Call me old school, but there are few things that can beat it in my book. Garlicky, lemony, cheesy, and anchovy-y, if there is such a word. If there isn't, there should be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, a great restaurant Caesar salad has eluded me in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the possible exceptions of Zuni Café and Tadich Grill (both old school and old guard), I have been bitterly disappointed every time I order a Caesar salad in a restaurant. And the above venues merely create good salads, not, in my opinion, great ones. Yet I keep on ordering them everywhere I go. It's like forgetting the pain of childbirth or the tragedy of falling in love with a crazy sadist-- I fall blindly and hopefully back into bed with the salad section of the menu and think, \"This time, it's going to be good. This time I am going to find the one I've been waiting for all my life.\" Invariably, I am served a Romaine salad with either a flaccid, mayonnaise-like dressing, or an underdressed, uninspired one with croutons like ship biscuits that leaves me asking my server for a little extra lemon and another napkin with which I might dry my tears.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps I just live to be disappointed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, when discussing the demise of this salad with a friend over a lunch that included a particularly sorry looking one, I understood what all of these salads were missing, good and bad:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Drama.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Caesar salad is a dish that cries out for table-side service. It is, in my opinion if not in fact, the ham actor of the salad world-- a fact none too surprising when one considers that it was first created in a pique of impromptu by Cesare Cardini, an Italian man living in the once-glamorous town Tijuana, Mexico. Fortunately for us, Cardini had the good sense (or delicious folly, depending on your point of view) to seek out his fame and fortune in Hollywood, dressing recipe in hand, where the salad soon became a favorite among the local movie stars and luncheon élite. Cesare's salad soon evolved into Caesar's salad and, somewhere along the way, the apostrophe \"s\" was lost, and Caesar salads were being dramatically created in front of and for delighted diners in leather banquetted dining rooms and Danish Modern living rooms across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sadly, Cesare's salad is going the way of Banana's Foster, Cherries Jubilee, and the dodo, thanks to the demise of table side service. There is little room in most restaurants today to manoeuver the necessary salad carts, and diners (with the possible exception of brief fads like the Benihana's craze of the 70's, and eating at chef's tables in the 90's) seem less interested in having a server who entertains. Lastly, and perhaps most sadly of all, those venues who do still provide table side cooking are often so old-fashioned and unchanging that they have become a sort of dwindling, petrified forest. And those diners who habituate them are either equally as fossilized or, at best, there solely for kitsch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So what can one do?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I, for one, have started making my own damned Caesar salads. Or Cesare salads, as I prefer now to call them. I can make them as obscenely garlicky as I like and can toss them as high and dramatically as my ceiling and physical abilities allow. I'm a professional waiter, after all, and one with a strong dramatic bent. Just ask anyone. Just don't ask me to make one for you at my restaurant-- there is no way in hell I could ever get that rolling cart past the drunken cougars hovering at the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lyle's Muy Fuerte Cesare's Salad:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 2 to 4\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At my birthday party last summer, I had decided that my own contribution to the buffet would be my favorite old-school salad, since I was now, officially (according to some people) old. It was then that I realized that I had never actually made one before. The one's I had known and loved were always made for me by people who understand gusto like my friend Shan or my ex-boyfriend Paul, who was about as theatrically dramatic as they come.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I confessed this salad-tossing inexperience to my friend Lyle, he told me he would walk me through the entire process. Being my birthday, I let him take over, while I poured myself another glass of wine and watched him do all the work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a recipe \u003cem>muy fuerte\u003c/em>-- extra garlic, extra anchovy, extra everything. Brash and unsubtle. In other words, just the way I like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I would suggest preparing this dish with at least one other person in the room when you first try it. Talk the entire time you are mashing, whisking, and tossing. Remember: you are the entertainment. If you don't have anyone on hand to chat with, I suggest, chatting up your pet. If you have no pet, bring a houseplant into your kitchen and talk to that. If you are lacking a house plant, you are more than likely not the type of person who would ever make a Caesar salad and are therefore not reading this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two heads of Romaine lettuce, well washed, outer leaves removed, and torn into bite-sized pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese. Please use the good stuff. Nothing that comes out of a shaker will do no matter how good a deal you got with that double coupon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whole anchovies for garnish are entirely optional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 coddled egg. Yolk only.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 anchovy filets (spanish, preferably)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of coarse salt (kosher is excellent)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juice of one half lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Worcestershire sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 to 5 drops Tabasco sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons (approximate) of extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coarsely ground black pepper to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For two cups of croutons (it is always a good idea to make extra):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups of day-old bread (french, sour, white-- take your pick), dried out a touch and cut into 3/4\" cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>a heavy pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Coddle an Egg:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coddling the egg yolk lends a richer texture to the dressing by thickening it slightly, in case you were wondering. If you want a better scientific understanding of this process, ask a scientist. I prefer to live in ignorance and call it a miracle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Bring your egg (which should be very fresh) to room temperature by placing it in a heat-proof glass of warm water for a few minutes. When this temperature has been achieved, drain water and cover egg with boiling water. Let stand for exactly one minute. Drain. Run cold water over egg. Egg has now been thoroughly traumatized and is now ready for use in your dressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Making the Croutons:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 375F. Drizzle butter/oil mixture over bread cubes while tossing cubes with your free hand (if you have no extra hand available, use someone else's.) Coat evenly but do try to avoid an absolute drenching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place a single layer of bread cubes on a baking sheet and pop into the oven on the upper rack. Peek into oven at around 7 to 8 minutes into the process, shake and turn cubes. Remove from oven when cubes have become golden brown and therefore have officially attained crouton status*.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*To my mind, croutons should be very much like Lou Grant from The Mary Tyler Moore Show-- hard, crusty exterior, but soft and warm on the inside. They should, however, not smell strongly of bourbon in the middle of the afternoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To Make the Dressing:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8312\" title=\"anchovy and garlic\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/anchovy-and-garlic.jpg\" alt=\"anchovy and garlic\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place kosher salt, anchovy, and garlic in the bottom of a wooden bowl. Mash these ingredients together with the aid of two forks until a rough paste is formed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Next, add mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and lemon juice. Trade in the two forks for a wire whisk. Whisk until well-blended.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add coddled egg yolk to the mix and whisk with gusto for about one minute to allow the citric acid from the lemon to \"cook\" the yolk a little.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Slowly drizzle in olive oil from as great a height as you dare, for theatrical purposes. Pause occasionally to taste with a clean finger. Make dramatic noises as you do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8313\" title=\"falling romaine leaves\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/falling-romaine-leaves.jpg\" alt=\"falling romaine leaves\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Let the lettuce leaves rain down into your dressing-drenched wooden bowl. Do not add any sound effects at this point. With the two forks you had earlier cast aside or with larger, more festive, salad utensils, begin to toss the salad. Sprinkle in a little cheese here, a little there. Hum as you sprinkle. Something lilting and hopeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Add your croutons, tossing and humming all the more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Now add cracked black pepper to finish both the tossing of your salad and the incessant humming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. If serving directly from the salad bowl, sprinkle with a bit more cheese to garnish, if serving individually, divide equally among chilled plates, then add more cheese. Whatever you do, serve and eat immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Just in Time for Halloween: The Jackie O. Lantern",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/jackie-o-lantern.jpg\" alt=\"jackie-o-lantern\" title=\"jackie-o-lantern\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7747\">A few days ago, I got an email from our editor here at Bay Area Bites asking me if I would incorporate \"in my own very special way\" a Halloween theme into this week's post. Rather than over think it I decided to do the first thing that popped into my head:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacqueline_Kennedy_Onassis\">Jackie O.\u003c/a> Lantern.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as I'm concerned, creating this lantern satisfies three important Halloween criteria: 1.) It allows me to dress inanimate fruit in drag, 2.) It caters to the modern obsession with celebrity (the fact that said celebrity is dead and was a Roman Catholic is pure holiday gravy), and 3.) It gives an appropriate nod to the centuries-old tradition of warding off evil spirits. Of course, the only spirit a Jackie O. Lantern might ward off is that of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Callas\">Maria Callas\u003c/a>. Or Christina Onassis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I Googled images of Jackie O. Lanterns and was shocked-- there weren't any. Yes, there were a few that called themselves Jackie O. Lanterns, but they were either just female jack-o-lanterns or, more dishearteningly, Jackie-o-lanterns wearing pink pillbox hats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's wrong, I tell you, just \u003cem>wrong\u003c/em>. That pillbox hat-- that's not Jackie O., that's Jackie Kennedy at the moment of her first husband's death. I wanted to convey a more cynical Jackie (or practical, depending upon your point of view)-- I wanted the Jackie who cashed in her status as American royalty to marry an aging stallion/obscenely wealthy Greek shipping magnate in order to protect what was left of her family and garner unheard of shopping privileges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I borrowed a wig, big sunglasses, and a scarf from my friend Natalie, who likes to play dress up more than any other adult I know, and tarted up a little sugar pumpkin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To make your very own Jackie O. Lantern, you will need:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big sunglasses. It's all about the sunglasses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A long brown wig\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sugar pumpkin. (Note: take the sunglasses with you while pumpkin shopping. If the glasses fit around the pumpkin's girth, you've got your pumpkin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some sort of carving instrument, like a small, sharp knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A spoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A votive candle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A vintage scarf. (Purely optional, but it does complete the look. Pucci's nice.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cut out a lid on the top of the pumpkin at a 45 degree angle so that the lid will remain in place when pumpkin is hollowed. This opening should be just large enough to allow access to your clenched fist. The smaller the hands, the better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Scoop out seeds and stringy bits of pulp from the inside of your pumpkin with a spoon, preferably made of sterling silver. It's even better if you are using a dessert spoon that has been stolen from the Plaza Hotel in New York. Since I have no such spoon, I had to settle for one I stole from the Algonquin Hotel instead. I am not advocating stealing-- I was just pretending I was \u003ca href=\"http://www.famousquotesandauthors.com/authors/robert_benchley_quotes.html\">Robert Benchley\u003c/a> and was therefore necessarily pickled. Reserve the pumpkin seeds for later roasting, since the seeds of the sugar pumpkin are the best for toasting, which is something I learned from Elise Bauer's always helpful \u003ca href=\"http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/toasted_pumpkin_seeds/\">Simply Recipes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Situate sunglasses onto the face of the pumpkin to determine the best placement for the eye holes. Cut out small holes with the tip of a sharp knife, then enlarge the holes with the same, stolen silver spoon you used to scrape out the pumpkin's insides. (Note: Holes should not be larger than the sunglasses.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Put your now-naked Jackie O. Lantern upon some sort of pedestal (I used one originally intended for cakes) which, now that I think of it, seems entirely appropriate. Dress up your pumpkin doll with wig, sunglasses, and a purely optional scarf-around-the-neck. Presto! You've got an international woman of glamour sitting on a cake stand in your kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/jackie-o-glow.jpg\" alt=\"jackie-o-glow\" title=\"jackie-o-glow\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7748\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lighting Jackie's Fire\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To add an inner glow to your Jackie O. Lantern, remove the wig and lid from the pumpkin, place a votive candle inside her, and light. Replace lid and wig. Adjust hairstyle, if the need or desire arises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a delicious bit of added fun, summon the spirit of Aristotle Onassis with the help of your Ouija board. Once you have his full attention, blast a Maria Callas aria from your surround sound speakers, then sit back and feel the tension. Voi lo Sapete from Mascagni's \u003ca href=\"http://www.musicwithease.com/cavalleria-rusticana-2.html\">Cavalleria Rusticana\u003c/a> would do very nicely. I recommend hiding all valuable, breakable objects.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do not recommend leaving your Jackie O. Lantern burning with fire from the inside unattended, unless you wish to melt your wig or set your house ablaze, but lighting it does make her eyes shine bright and wide, which makes sense, if you think about it:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That woman \u003cem>saw\u003c/em> things that no woman should ever have to see.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "A few days ago, I got an email from our editor here at Bay Area Bites asking me if I would incorporate \"in my own very special way\" a Halloween theme into this week's post. Rather than over think it, I decided to do the first thing that popped into my head:\r\n\r\nA Jackie O. Lantern.\r\n\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/jackie-o-lantern.jpg\" alt=\"jackie-o-lantern\" title=\"jackie-o-lantern\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7747\">A few days ago, I got an email from our editor here at Bay Area Bites asking me if I would incorporate \"in my own very special way\" a Halloween theme into this week's post. Rather than over think it I decided to do the first thing that popped into my head:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacqueline_Kennedy_Onassis\">Jackie O.\u003c/a> Lantern.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As far as I'm concerned, creating this lantern satisfies three important Halloween criteria: 1.) It allows me to dress inanimate fruit in drag, 2.) It caters to the modern obsession with celebrity (the fact that said celebrity is dead and was a Roman Catholic is pure holiday gravy), and 3.) It gives an appropriate nod to the centuries-old tradition of warding off evil spirits. Of course, the only spirit a Jackie O. Lantern might ward off is that of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_Callas\">Maria Callas\u003c/a>. Or Christina Onassis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I Googled images of Jackie O. Lanterns and was shocked-- there weren't any. Yes, there were a few that called themselves Jackie O. Lanterns, but they were either just female jack-o-lanterns or, more dishearteningly, Jackie-o-lanterns wearing pink pillbox hats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's wrong, I tell you, just \u003cem>wrong\u003c/em>. That pillbox hat-- that's not Jackie O., that's Jackie Kennedy at the moment of her first husband's death. I wanted to convey a more cynical Jackie (or practical, depending upon your point of view)-- I wanted the Jackie who cashed in her status as American royalty to marry an aging stallion/obscenely wealthy Greek shipping magnate in order to protect what was left of her family and garner unheard of shopping privileges.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I borrowed a wig, big sunglasses, and a scarf from my friend Natalie, who likes to play dress up more than any other adult I know, and tarted up a little sugar pumpkin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To make your very own Jackie O. Lantern, you will need:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Big sunglasses. It's all about the sunglasses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A long brown wig\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sugar pumpkin. (Note: take the sunglasses with you while pumpkin shopping. If the glasses fit around the pumpkin's girth, you've got your pumpkin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some sort of carving instrument, like a small, sharp knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A spoon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A votive candle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A vintage scarf. (Purely optional, but it does complete the look. Pucci's nice.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cut out a lid on the top of the pumpkin at a 45 degree angle so that the lid will remain in place when pumpkin is hollowed. This opening should be just large enough to allow access to your clenched fist. The smaller the hands, the better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Scoop out seeds and stringy bits of pulp from the inside of your pumpkin with a spoon, preferably made of sterling silver. It's even better if you are using a dessert spoon that has been stolen from the Plaza Hotel in New York. Since I have no such spoon, I had to settle for one I stole from the Algonquin Hotel instead. I am not advocating stealing-- I was just pretending I was \u003ca href=\"http://www.famousquotesandauthors.com/authors/robert_benchley_quotes.html\">Robert Benchley\u003c/a> and was therefore necessarily pickled. Reserve the pumpkin seeds for later roasting, since the seeds of the sugar pumpkin are the best for toasting, which is something I learned from Elise Bauer's always helpful \u003ca href=\"http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/toasted_pumpkin_seeds/\">Simply Recipes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Situate sunglasses onto the face of the pumpkin to determine the best placement for the eye holes. Cut out small holes with the tip of a sharp knife, then enlarge the holes with the same, stolen silver spoon you used to scrape out the pumpkin's insides. (Note: Holes should not be larger than the sunglasses.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Put your now-naked Jackie O. Lantern upon some sort of pedestal (I used one originally intended for cakes) which, now that I think of it, seems entirely appropriate. Dress up your pumpkin doll with wig, sunglasses, and a purely optional scarf-around-the-neck. Presto! You've got an international woman of glamour sitting on a cake stand in your kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/jackie-o-glow.jpg\" alt=\"jackie-o-glow\" title=\"jackie-o-glow\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7748\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lighting Jackie's Fire\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To add an inner glow to your Jackie O. Lantern, remove the wig and lid from the pumpkin, place a votive candle inside her, and light. Replace lid and wig. Adjust hairstyle, if the need or desire arises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a delicious bit of added fun, summon the spirit of Aristotle Onassis with the help of your Ouija board. Once you have his full attention, blast a Maria Callas aria from your surround sound speakers, then sit back and feel the tension. Voi lo Sapete from Mascagni's \u003ca href=\"http://www.musicwithease.com/cavalleria-rusticana-2.html\">Cavalleria Rusticana\u003c/a> would do very nicely. I recommend hiding all valuable, breakable objects.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do not recommend leaving your Jackie O. Lantern burning with fire from the inside unattended, unless you wish to melt your wig or set your house ablaze, but lighting it does make her eyes shine bright and wide, which makes sense, if you think about it:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That woman \u003cem>saw\u003c/em> things that no woman should ever have to see.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Let's say you're at a party, hovering over a gooey white puck of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">Mt. Tam\u003c/a>, canape-concerned, ignoring the guests swirling around you, when a stranger sidles over and sizes you up. \"Hey,\" he says, a wide, knowing grin spreading across his face as he gestures at the cheese-covered knife you're determinedly sliding across a good cracker. \"You're a real foodie, aren't you?\" \"No, I'm just hungry,\" you say, wincing -- because you hate that word. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're not alone. To its detractors, the term \"foodie\" brings to mind \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/\">Yelp\u003c/a>--happy yuppies prone to infantile rhapsodizing on the subject of beloved foodstuffs. Yet to its advocates, the word merely characterizes a commitment to eating well -- less prissy-sounding than \"epicure,\" without the \u003ca href=\"http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Vmpox61t3Mo/SVfFNR7aPHI/AAAAAAAAAE8/Q4PpoRBEwxc/s1600-h/ego.jpg\">Anton Ego\u003c/a>-esque pomposity \"gourmand\" evokes. According to etymologist Barry Popik, former New York magazine food critic Gael Greene first used it in print in 1980. A few years later, Paul Levy and Ann Barr inserted \"foodie\" into the title of their book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Official-Foodie-Handbook-Ann-Barr/dp/0877957274/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1252349171&sr=8-2/\">\"The Official Foodie Handbook.\"\u003c/a> Since then, it's appeared in countless cookbooks and memoirs, and thoroughly penetrated our vernacular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people think arguing about what words mean is a silly preoccupation. Given life's great challenges and the limits clocks and calendars impose, this particular linguistic scrap is not, in the big scheme of things, a fantastic use of time, but if enough people harbor strong opinions about the term's use and meaning, it's by nature worth addressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all know people who truly don't care what they eat, much less where their food comes from, or who makes it. These folks backpack through Europe proudly subsisting on jug wine and potato chips. They eat peanut butter sandwiches for lunch every day. They forget to eat at all unless they're reminded to do so. Food is just fuel, nothing more. Identifying yourself as a \"foodie\" is a way of saying you're different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course labels define people in overly simplistic and easily adjustable terms. People don't necessarily have a problem with the existence of \"foodie,\" just with its ubiquity and the vague jumble of ever-evolving potential meanings it implies. If you're a \"foodie,\" do you eat for pleasure? Do you talk about food all the time? Do you think eating is a political act? Do you dutifully follow food trends? Are you knowledgeable about food? Are you a fan? An aficionado? An adventurer? Do you spend too much at restaurants? Do you buy organic and local? Do you really have the time to track down every Twittered street food cart in town? \"Foodie\" may have been conjured up with a positive meaning in mind, but most word configurations ending in \"ie\" that describe people -- alkie, druggie, yuppie, even hippie -- tend to have disparaging connotations, and this one is no exception. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, similar one-word alternatives to \"foodie\" flop for other reasons: phonetically speaking, \"foodist\" is one letter away from \"nudist;\" a \"foodster\" sounds like a runaway hot-dog cart souped up with a diesel engine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/foodie1500.jpg\" alt=\"a house party in the Mission- are these guys foodies?\" title=\"a house party in the Mission- are these guys foodies?\" width=\"500\" height=\"423\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6687\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A house party in the Mission: Are these guys foodies? Photo by Michael Chopko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/foodie2500.jpg\" alt=\"my house- what about this lady? is she a foodie?\" title=\"my house- what about this lady? is she a foodie?\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6688\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>My house: What about this lady? Photo by A. Simmons\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Foodie\" makes me think of hedonists with healthy appetites and strong opinions, but only a fleeting, superficial interest in food as anything more than a source of sensory delight. I'm not prescribing any \u003ca href=\"http://freshideasnutritainment.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/michael-pollan.jpg\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a>. The unexamined sandwich is still sometimes worth eating, but to me, \"foodie\" as a label implies frivolity when food is actually quite serious: an essential human requirement in which we've merely evolved to seek and derive incredible joy. Our relationship with what we eat shapes a text as rich as any other, a tapestry of taste woven across time through history, language, science, and art -- reflective of, as is the case with most of what's really important, everything humans have experienced. From fire-pits to \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferran_Adri%C3%A0\">Ferran Adria\u003c/a>, food preparation is much older than music, art, and theater; it's right up there with sex and violence. Being in touch with the role it plays means you're engaged, not elitist. Seeing a dude on the bus with a grease-smeared McDonald's bag in his lap and sneering because he doesn't appear to value good food is elitist -- and presumptuous. Maybe that guy knows more about food than you. Maybe he's more passionate about his quarter-pounder than you are about \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a>. Maybe he eats those weak burgers and, with every savored nibble, whips up waves of fond memory -- road trips, family vacations, burger-y smells filling up the car and fogging up the windows, styrofoam folders of steaming breakfast munched on the school steps before homeroom -- and puts him back in places he likes to keep close. Maybe he's not what some people would call a foodie. Maybe he's more than that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, I enjoyed a dinner with dedicated eaters. As the first course landed, I asked them what they thought of the word \"foodie.\" Predictably, a few embraced the term, a few dismissed it, and the rest shrugged and said they did not care. The newish \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/08/city_of_burgers_mission_burger.php/\">Mission Burger\u003c/a> came up an hour later, right after dessert, once a bottle of whiskey had begun making the rounds. \"Oh, you should check it out,\" I said, perking up. \"It's in a market, next to the meat counter.\" I went on. \"Sounds like something a foodie would say,\" a friend immediately remarked wryly once I'd paused. \"Right -- and then blog,\" said another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People vulnerable to the foodie label like to discuss food and break news of hidden favorites. As we sat in my dining room, stuffed, half-drunk, talking about food, I thought of my late great-aunt Florence from \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=barlow+kentucky&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=43.983628,87.011719&ie=UTF8&z=15&iwloc=A\">Barlow, Kentucky\u003c/a>. A large, funny woman with a tiny kitchen and pecan trees out back, she used each meal as an opportunity to plan the next. Sitting at the table tucking into bacon, eggs, and toast, she'd wonder aloud: \"now, we'll have green beans for supper, with potatoes and maybe a little ham.\" She wouldn't have known the difference between gazpacho and a can of Campbell's, but she really liked to eat and talk about eating. Was she a foodie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The foodie compulsion to share obsessively can irritate, but if food has the capacity to enrich lives, help forge relationships, and enlighten perspectives, then by passing it along, such fervent consumers -- whether they be writers, food industry professionals, or laypeople -- might be doing a service by sharing those possibilities with others. Sure, haughty critics and tastemakers (as well as discerning consumers) often spout off snark with no personal creative perspective -- like a know-it-all modern furniture buff who doesn't own a hammer, or an avid record collector who has never set foot in a studio. All the same, an intelligent thoughtful discourse about something meaningful elevates that something. People preserve things by paying attention to them, and what we preserve says a lot about us. Food is no exception. Every little bite counts. A burger is not just a burger, and anyone who doesn't get that isn't looking hard enough. Writing and talking about food isn't dancing about architecture -- not that dancing about architecture is a particularly bad idea -- once you think about it. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Let's say you're at a party, hovering over a gooey white puck of Mt. Tam, canape-concerned, ignoring the guests swirling around you, when a stranger sidles over and sizes you up. \"Hey,\" he says, a wide, knowing grin spreading across his face as he gestures at the cheese-covered knife you're determinedly sliding across a good cracker. \"You're a real foodie, aren't you?\" \"No, I'm just hungry,\" you say, wincing -- because you hate that word. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Let's say you're at a party, hovering over a gooey white puck of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">Mt. Tam\u003c/a>, canape-concerned, ignoring the guests swirling around you, when a stranger sidles over and sizes you up. \"Hey,\" he says, a wide, knowing grin spreading across his face as he gestures at the cheese-covered knife you're determinedly sliding across a good cracker. \"You're a real foodie, aren't you?\" \"No, I'm just hungry,\" you say, wincing -- because you hate that word. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You're not alone. To its detractors, the term \"foodie\" brings to mind \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/\">Yelp\u003c/a>--happy yuppies prone to infantile rhapsodizing on the subject of beloved foodstuffs. Yet to its advocates, the word merely characterizes a commitment to eating well -- less prissy-sounding than \"epicure,\" without the \u003ca href=\"http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Vmpox61t3Mo/SVfFNR7aPHI/AAAAAAAAAE8/Q4PpoRBEwxc/s1600-h/ego.jpg\">Anton Ego\u003c/a>-esque pomposity \"gourmand\" evokes. According to etymologist Barry Popik, former New York magazine food critic Gael Greene first used it in print in 1980. A few years later, Paul Levy and Ann Barr inserted \"foodie\" into the title of their book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Official-Foodie-Handbook-Ann-Barr/dp/0877957274/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1252349171&sr=8-2/\">\"The Official Foodie Handbook.\"\u003c/a> Since then, it's appeared in countless cookbooks and memoirs, and thoroughly penetrated our vernacular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people think arguing about what words mean is a silly preoccupation. Given life's great challenges and the limits clocks and calendars impose, this particular linguistic scrap is not, in the big scheme of things, a fantastic use of time, but if enough people harbor strong opinions about the term's use and meaning, it's by nature worth addressing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all know people who truly don't care what they eat, much less where their food comes from, or who makes it. These folks backpack through Europe proudly subsisting on jug wine and potato chips. They eat peanut butter sandwiches for lunch every day. They forget to eat at all unless they're reminded to do so. Food is just fuel, nothing more. Identifying yourself as a \"foodie\" is a way of saying you're different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course labels define people in overly simplistic and easily adjustable terms. People don't necessarily have a problem with the existence of \"foodie,\" just with its ubiquity and the vague jumble of ever-evolving potential meanings it implies. If you're a \"foodie,\" do you eat for pleasure? Do you talk about food all the time? Do you think eating is a political act? Do you dutifully follow food trends? Are you knowledgeable about food? Are you a fan? An aficionado? An adventurer? Do you spend too much at restaurants? Do you buy organic and local? Do you really have the time to track down every Twittered street food cart in town? \"Foodie\" may have been conjured up with a positive meaning in mind, but most word configurations ending in \"ie\" that describe people -- alkie, druggie, yuppie, even hippie -- tend to have disparaging connotations, and this one is no exception. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, similar one-word alternatives to \"foodie\" flop for other reasons: phonetically speaking, \"foodist\" is one letter away from \"nudist;\" a \"foodster\" sounds like a runaway hot-dog cart souped up with a diesel engine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/foodie1500.jpg\" alt=\"a house party in the Mission- are these guys foodies?\" title=\"a house party in the Mission- are these guys foodies?\" width=\"500\" height=\"423\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6687\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A house party in the Mission: Are these guys foodies? Photo by Michael Chopko\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/foodie2500.jpg\" alt=\"my house- what about this lady? is she a foodie?\" title=\"my house- what about this lady? is she a foodie?\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6688\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>My house: What about this lady? Photo by A. Simmons\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Foodie\" makes me think of hedonists with healthy appetites and strong opinions, but only a fleeting, superficial interest in food as anything more than a source of sensory delight. I'm not prescribing any \u003ca href=\"http://freshideasnutritainment.files.wordpress.com/2009/04/michael-pollan.jpg\">Michael Pollan\u003c/a>. The unexamined sandwich is still sometimes worth eating, but to me, \"foodie\" as a label implies frivolity when food is actually quite serious: an essential human requirement in which we've merely evolved to seek and derive incredible joy. Our relationship with what we eat shapes a text as rich as any other, a tapestry of taste woven across time through history, language, science, and art -- reflective of, as is the case with most of what's really important, everything humans have experienced. From fire-pits to \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferran_Adri%C3%A0\">Ferran Adria\u003c/a>, food preparation is much older than music, art, and theater; it's right up there with sex and violence. Being in touch with the role it plays means you're engaged, not elitist. Seeing a dude on the bus with a grease-smeared McDonald's bag in his lap and sneering because he doesn't appear to value good food is elitist -- and presumptuous. Maybe that guy knows more about food than you. Maybe he's more passionate about his quarter-pounder than you are about \u003ca href=\"http://blog.missionstreetfood.com/\">Mission Street Food\u003c/a>. Maybe he eats those weak burgers and, with every savored nibble, whips up waves of fond memory -- road trips, family vacations, burger-y smells filling up the car and fogging up the windows, styrofoam folders of steaming breakfast munched on the school steps before homeroom -- and puts him back in places he likes to keep close. Maybe he's not what some people would call a foodie. Maybe he's more than that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, I enjoyed a dinner with dedicated eaters. As the first course landed, I asked them what they thought of the word \"foodie.\" Predictably, a few embraced the term, a few dismissed it, and the rest shrugged and said they did not care. The newish \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/08/city_of_burgers_mission_burger.php/\">Mission Burger\u003c/a> came up an hour later, right after dessert, once a bottle of whiskey had begun making the rounds. \"Oh, you should check it out,\" I said, perking up. \"It's in a market, next to the meat counter.\" I went on. \"Sounds like something a foodie would say,\" a friend immediately remarked wryly once I'd paused. \"Right -- and then blog,\" said another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People vulnerable to the foodie label like to discuss food and break news of hidden favorites. As we sat in my dining room, stuffed, half-drunk, talking about food, I thought of my late great-aunt Florence from \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=barlow+kentucky&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=43.983628,87.011719&ie=UTF8&z=15&iwloc=A\">Barlow, Kentucky\u003c/a>. A large, funny woman with a tiny kitchen and pecan trees out back, she used each meal as an opportunity to plan the next. Sitting at the table tucking into bacon, eggs, and toast, she'd wonder aloud: \"now, we'll have green beans for supper, with potatoes and maybe a little ham.\" She wouldn't have known the difference between gazpacho and a can of Campbell's, but she really liked to eat and talk about eating. Was she a foodie?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The foodie compulsion to share obsessively can irritate, but if food has the capacity to enrich lives, help forge relationships, and enlighten perspectives, then by passing it along, such fervent consumers -- whether they be writers, food industry professionals, or laypeople -- might be doing a service by sharing those possibilities with others. Sure, haughty critics and tastemakers (as well as discerning consumers) often spout off snark with no personal creative perspective -- like a know-it-all modern furniture buff who doesn't own a hammer, or an avid record collector who has never set foot in a studio. All the same, an intelligent thoughtful discourse about something meaningful elevates that something. People preserve things by paying attention to them, and what we preserve says a lot about us. Food is no exception. Every little bite counts. A burger is not just a burger, and anyone who doesn't get that isn't looking hard enough. Writing and talking about food isn't dancing about architecture -- not that dancing about architecture is a particularly bad idea -- once you think about it. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>When it came to food, my grandfather prized quantity. Maybe it was something about being a kid during the Depression and then an adult during World War II rationing, but he relished, like little else, walking into the dining room of a second-rate hotel restaurant, and seeing brunch laid out: a legion of steaming metal tubs on tables in rows, like shining shields, their handles swathed in white cloth napkins. There'd be a d.i.y waffle station to the left, a man shaking omelets to the right. Cascades of silly, under-ripe fruit would pile on circular tables here and there. There'd be a roast beef carving counter, little sausage links, pancakes, scrambled eggs, and lunch-like dishes -- baked chicken-y things, bad salads, mysterious gratins -- no one ever seemed to actually eat. He loved brunch, specifically buffets, because he could eat anything he wanted, in whatever sequence and amounts he desired. Brunch was freedom in the form of phony opulence. It reminded him of the cruises he adored, I think, an earthly manifestation of those magical floating worlds where dedicated gluttons could dine four times a day and hop freely from one bastardized culinary tradition to another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, buffets are more luxurious than those I knew in Kentucky as a kid. On Sunday mornings, from 10:30 a.m. until 1:30 p.m., you can enjoy $68 worth of omelets made to order, sushi and sashimi, pasta, dim sum, crepes, breads, pastries, and desserts -- along with posh digs and about 800 tourists -- at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpalace.com/Dining\">Court Garden of the Palace Hotel\u003c/a> on the corner of Market and New Mongomery. The most trumpeted neighborhood brunch spots, typically buffet-less, are usually no less packed with locals. Brunch isn't breakfast. Breakfast happens on a walk from BART to work, right after a stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.specialtysdirect.com/welcome.asp\">Specialty's\u003c/a>, or at a diner in the middle of Wyoming at 5 a.m. You eat breakfast because you're hungry. More than sustenance, brunch is a time to linger, a special occasion you get used to, even if you're having it around the corner from your apartment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ultimate slow feed originated in Britain, close to the end of the 1800s. Since the dawn of civilization, the privileged and wealthy had enjoyed leisurely, pleasurable meals at an expense of money and time unsustainable for poorer people. Brunch was a trendy expression of this long-running culinary tradition. While the meal itself would gain great popularity in the United States well after the turn-of-the-century, the name was coined in 1895 by Hunter's Weekly contributor Guy Beringer. In an article entitled \"Brunch: A Plea\", Beringer advocated the adoption of a new meal, offered around noon, to replace early Sunday dinner, that daunting afternoon ritual of gravy-sauced roasts and meat pastries Beringer found unduly rough on a booze-imbued stomach. \"Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting,\" Beringer wrote, thinking of good toast, fine jams, and languorous mugs of coffee to precede heartier indulgences. \"It is talk-compelling. It puts you in a good temper, it makes you satisfied with yourself and your fellow beings, it sweeps away the worries and cobwebs of the week.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over a hundred years later, in his career-making 2001 book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Confidential-Adventures-Culinary-Underbelly/dp/0060934913\">\"Kitchen Confidential\"\u003c/a>, celebrity face-stuffer \u003ca href=\"http://trishatruly.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/bourdain.jpg\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> (I'd like to leave him be but he keeps popping up like a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whac-A-Mole\">Whac-A-Mole\u003c/a> at the county fair) notoriously took brunch's modern, evolved form to task:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Brunch menus are an open invitation to the cost-conscious chef, a dumping ground for the odd bits left over from Friday and Saturday nights. How about hollandaise sauce? Not for me. Bacteria love hollandaise. And nobody I know has ever made hollandaise to order. And how long has that Canadian bacon been festering in the walk-in? Remember, brunch is only served once a week -- on the weekends. Cooks hate brunch. Brunch is punishment block for the B-Team cooks, or where the farm team of recent dishwashers learn their chops.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>From outside the kitchen, the view is still a little bleak, or significantly brighter -- depending on where you stand. Stale bread breakfast casseroles, hash, and whatever-with-eggs may be unabashed second chances for unpopular dinner specials, leftovers slopped together by the bored, hung-over chefs inhabiting Bourdain's tableau. Yet the brunching masses greet them with enthusiasm all the same, dropping dinner-sized wads on scrambles, stacks, and the odd strata. For some urban professionals, a Sunday morning wouldn't be quite right without lingering al fresco at some cafe over granola, crumbly biscuits, vegan gravy, and a bottomless mimosa. For others, weekend mornings and early afternoons are times for errands and exercise. On their paths to such less idle pursuits, they worm their ways through throngs of shades-wearing folks holding out for coveted tables, seemingly with nothing better to do save wait. Brunch isn't just a meal, an enduring dining convention \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/01/28/36-breakfast-places/\">white people like\u003c/a> -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/03/02/79-modern-furniture/\">modern furniture\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/01/30/39-apple-products/\">Apple products\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/full-list-of-stuff-white-people-like/\">other stuff\u003c/a>. Today, it's a state of mind, and a polarizing one at that. Brunch-positive people work hard and play hard. They see brunch as a soothing extension of the partying they did the night before, a necessary putting back together of things that were dislodged -- a ritual well worth the inflated price of pancakes and a lengthy wait. Brunch-negative people think waiting for food they could make at home for a fraction of the cost is a waste of a day's best hours. There are two sides, and San Francisco's boutique-lined streets -- Haight, Church, Valencia -- are divided between them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/andrewsimmons-brunch.jpg\" alt=\"blogger andrew simmons on right at brunch\" title=\"blogger andrew simmons on right at brunch\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6615\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The blogger (Andrew on right) captured in a rare moment of brunch-positivity. Photo by Rich Good.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Tuesday, S.F. Chronicle writer Trey Bundy tackled brunch-positivity in his People Meter column, opening with the following salvo:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"San Franciscans are a vocal lot when it comes to waiting on Muni, but apparently don't mind waiting half the morning to order breakfast.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>He'd sidled up to crowds of hopeful patrons at \u003ca href=\"http://www.boogaloossf.com/\">Boogaloos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/dotties-true-blue-cafe-san-francisco\">Dottie's True Blue Cafe\u003c/a> two days prior, and peppered them with the sorts of questions brunch-negative people often contemplate posing: How long are you willing to wait for this brunch? What makes waiting for so long worthwhile? What would you do with more free time, assuming you spent less of it waiting for brunch? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reading \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/25/DDMK19CM7A.DTL\">the responses\u003c/a>, I was surprised to find that the waits were even longer than I'd imagined, and the reasons for doing so seriously non-compelling. The great \u003ca href=\"http://www.weirdwreckuds.com/\">Millie Jackson\u003c/a> once sang that \"anything worth having is worth waiting on.\" She wasn't talking about the green gravy with carrot chunks at Boogaloos. This substance is not one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPxPciXcJvc\">Sam-I-Am\u003c/a>'s less successful forays into the culinary world; to a few of the quoted, it's a real treat deserving of an hour-long dally on the sidewalk. I've had it, and though it is reasonably palatable, it is, unlike a pig roast, a trip to \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com/\">Hog Island\u003c/a>, or a mammoth fish fry, not a food around which to plan a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully, brunch-positives are not waiting for food at all. The soft, crunchy, creamy, salty, and sweet kinds of food enjoyed at brunch are signifiers of the desired experience, not the whole of it. At such a time, when Beringer's cobwebs droop low, whether from a hangover as wicked as the cook's or the queasy dregs of a tough week at work, the waiting to eat is probably as valued as the eating itself, not to mention the obvious habit-shaped act of sitting down, ordering, getting coffee, passing the paper, observing other tables, and conversing with your companions. You're supposed to wait. Brunch is satisfying because you know what you're waiting for and what to expect. There are no surprises. The cafe is loud, swollen with chatter and the clatter of a hundred plates. Water is slow to arrive, and when it does, you finish it quickly and want more. Your head throbs, but help is on the way. Godot is a criminally-overpriced mess of eggs, nothing more, but if you order him, he really will come, and everything else will fall into place -- while the rest of the world whizzes by. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": " Brunch-positive people work hard and play hard. They see brunch as a soothing extension of the partying they did the night before, a necessary putting back together of things that were dislodged -- a ritual well worth the inflated price of pancakes and a lengthy wait. Brunch-negative people think waiting for food they could make at home for a fraction of the cost is a waste of a day's best hours. There are two sides, and San Francisco's boutique-lined streets -- Haight, Church, Valencia -- are divided between them.\r\n",
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"title": "Brunchin' is a Habit: Waiting for the Bran ($26 in My Hand) | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When it came to food, my grandfather prized quantity. Maybe it was something about being a kid during the Depression and then an adult during World War II rationing, but he relished, like little else, walking into the dining room of a second-rate hotel restaurant, and seeing brunch laid out: a legion of steaming metal tubs on tables in rows, like shining shields, their handles swathed in white cloth napkins. There'd be a d.i.y waffle station to the left, a man shaking omelets to the right. Cascades of silly, under-ripe fruit would pile on circular tables here and there. There'd be a roast beef carving counter, little sausage links, pancakes, scrambled eggs, and lunch-like dishes -- baked chicken-y things, bad salads, mysterious gratins -- no one ever seemed to actually eat. He loved brunch, specifically buffets, because he could eat anything he wanted, in whatever sequence and amounts he desired. Brunch was freedom in the form of phony opulence. It reminded him of the cruises he adored, I think, an earthly manifestation of those magical floating worlds where dedicated gluttons could dine four times a day and hop freely from one bastardized culinary tradition to another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In San Francisco, buffets are more luxurious than those I knew in Kentucky as a kid. On Sunday mornings, from 10:30 a.m. until 1:30 p.m., you can enjoy $68 worth of omelets made to order, sushi and sashimi, pasta, dim sum, crepes, breads, pastries, and desserts -- along with posh digs and about 800 tourists -- at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfpalace.com/Dining\">Court Garden of the Palace Hotel\u003c/a> on the corner of Market and New Mongomery. The most trumpeted neighborhood brunch spots, typically buffet-less, are usually no less packed with locals. Brunch isn't breakfast. Breakfast happens on a walk from BART to work, right after a stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.specialtysdirect.com/welcome.asp\">Specialty's\u003c/a>, or at a diner in the middle of Wyoming at 5 a.m. You eat breakfast because you're hungry. More than sustenance, brunch is a time to linger, a special occasion you get used to, even if you're having it around the corner from your apartment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ultimate slow feed originated in Britain, close to the end of the 1800s. Since the dawn of civilization, the privileged and wealthy had enjoyed leisurely, pleasurable meals at an expense of money and time unsustainable for poorer people. Brunch was a trendy expression of this long-running culinary tradition. While the meal itself would gain great popularity in the United States well after the turn-of-the-century, the name was coined in 1895 by Hunter's Weekly contributor Guy Beringer. In an article entitled \"Brunch: A Plea\", Beringer advocated the adoption of a new meal, offered around noon, to replace early Sunday dinner, that daunting afternoon ritual of gravy-sauced roasts and meat pastries Beringer found unduly rough on a booze-imbued stomach. \"Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting,\" Beringer wrote, thinking of good toast, fine jams, and languorous mugs of coffee to precede heartier indulgences. \"It is talk-compelling. It puts you in a good temper, it makes you satisfied with yourself and your fellow beings, it sweeps away the worries and cobwebs of the week.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over a hundred years later, in his career-making 2001 book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Confidential-Adventures-Culinary-Underbelly/dp/0060934913\">\"Kitchen Confidential\"\u003c/a>, celebrity face-stuffer \u003ca href=\"http://trishatruly.files.wordpress.com/2008/08/bourdain.jpg\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> (I'd like to leave him be but he keeps popping up like a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whac-A-Mole\">Whac-A-Mole\u003c/a> at the county fair) notoriously took brunch's modern, evolved form to task:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Brunch menus are an open invitation to the cost-conscious chef, a dumping ground for the odd bits left over from Friday and Saturday nights. How about hollandaise sauce? Not for me. Bacteria love hollandaise. And nobody I know has ever made hollandaise to order. And how long has that Canadian bacon been festering in the walk-in? Remember, brunch is only served once a week -- on the weekends. Cooks hate brunch. Brunch is punishment block for the B-Team cooks, or where the farm team of recent dishwashers learn their chops.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>From outside the kitchen, the view is still a little bleak, or significantly brighter -- depending on where you stand. Stale bread breakfast casseroles, hash, and whatever-with-eggs may be unabashed second chances for unpopular dinner specials, leftovers slopped together by the bored, hung-over chefs inhabiting Bourdain's tableau. Yet the brunching masses greet them with enthusiasm all the same, dropping dinner-sized wads on scrambles, stacks, and the odd strata. For some urban professionals, a Sunday morning wouldn't be quite right without lingering al fresco at some cafe over granola, crumbly biscuits, vegan gravy, and a bottomless mimosa. For others, weekend mornings and early afternoons are times for errands and exercise. On their paths to such less idle pursuits, they worm their ways through throngs of shades-wearing folks holding out for coveted tables, seemingly with nothing better to do save wait. Brunch isn't just a meal, an enduring dining convention \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/01/28/36-breakfast-places/\">white people like\u003c/a> -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/03/02/79-modern-furniture/\">modern furniture\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/01/30/39-apple-products/\">Apple products\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/full-list-of-stuff-white-people-like/\">other stuff\u003c/a>. Today, it's a state of mind, and a polarizing one at that. Brunch-positive people work hard and play hard. They see brunch as a soothing extension of the partying they did the night before, a necessary putting back together of things that were dislodged -- a ritual well worth the inflated price of pancakes and a lengthy wait. Brunch-negative people think waiting for food they could make at home for a fraction of the cost is a waste of a day's best hours. There are two sides, and San Francisco's boutique-lined streets -- Haight, Church, Valencia -- are divided between them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/andrewsimmons-brunch.jpg\" alt=\"blogger andrew simmons on right at brunch\" title=\"blogger andrew simmons on right at brunch\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6615\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The blogger (Andrew on right) captured in a rare moment of brunch-positivity. Photo by Rich Good.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Tuesday, S.F. Chronicle writer Trey Bundy tackled brunch-positivity in his People Meter column, opening with the following salvo:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"San Franciscans are a vocal lot when it comes to waiting on Muni, but apparently don't mind waiting half the morning to order breakfast.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>He'd sidled up to crowds of hopeful patrons at \u003ca href=\"http://www.boogaloossf.com/\">Boogaloos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/dotties-true-blue-cafe-san-francisco\">Dottie's True Blue Cafe\u003c/a> two days prior, and peppered them with the sorts of questions brunch-negative people often contemplate posing: How long are you willing to wait for this brunch? What makes waiting for so long worthwhile? What would you do with more free time, assuming you spent less of it waiting for brunch? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reading \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/25/DDMK19CM7A.DTL\">the responses\u003c/a>, I was surprised to find that the waits were even longer than I'd imagined, and the reasons for doing so seriously non-compelling. The great \u003ca href=\"http://www.weirdwreckuds.com/\">Millie Jackson\u003c/a> once sang that \"anything worth having is worth waiting on.\" She wasn't talking about the green gravy with carrot chunks at Boogaloos. This substance is not one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPxPciXcJvc\">Sam-I-Am\u003c/a>'s less successful forays into the culinary world; to a few of the quoted, it's a real treat deserving of an hour-long dally on the sidewalk. I've had it, and though it is reasonably palatable, it is, unlike a pig roast, a trip to \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com/\">Hog Island\u003c/a>, or a mammoth fish fry, not a food around which to plan a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully, brunch-positives are not waiting for food at all. The soft, crunchy, creamy, salty, and sweet kinds of food enjoyed at brunch are signifiers of the desired experience, not the whole of it. At such a time, when Beringer's cobwebs droop low, whether from a hangover as wicked as the cook's or the queasy dregs of a tough week at work, the waiting to eat is probably as valued as the eating itself, not to mention the obvious habit-shaped act of sitting down, ordering, getting coffee, passing the paper, observing other tables, and conversing with your companions. You're supposed to wait. Brunch is satisfying because you know what you're waiting for and what to expect. There are no surprises. The cafe is loud, swollen with chatter and the clatter of a hundred plates. Water is slow to arrive, and when it does, you finish it quickly and want more. Your head throbs, but help is on the way. Godot is a criminally-overpriced mess of eggs, nothing more, but if you order him, he really will come, and everything else will fall into place -- while the rest of the world whizzes by. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Julie & Julia: Movie Food, Obsession, & Boeuf Blog-uignon",
"title": "Julie & Julia: Movie Food, Obsession, & Boeuf Blog-uignon",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild1.jpg\" alt=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" width=\"490\" height=\"625\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6047\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Avec poultry\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every exuberantly stylish and special \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPiQcIxjZTA\">\"Tampopo,\"\u003c/a> a few dozen \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-5RJTf0-Jk\">\"No Reservations\"\u003c/a> sail into theaters to sully the food flick sub-genre: bland, safe, commercial fare smothering run-of-the-mill romance in warmed-over foodie platitudes. The tradition is troublesome, by nature, a challenge. Food engages many senses; apart from the best singularly dedicated cooking shows, the characteristics of a great meal aren't easily palpable to a viewer deprived of taste -- especially when the meal unfolds within the context of a scene in a larger narrative. Food might look okay on-screen, but it rarely comes off as particularly delicious, even in decent movies. Actors can munch on some food stylist's pretty concoction, roll their eyes, and moan embarrassingly with hammy delight, but, so frequently, even the most sumptuous footage -- hyper-real and luscious -- falls flat beneath the weight of woefully unnatural theatrics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the newish \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonypictures.com/movies/juliejulia/\">\"Julie & Julia,\"\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001188/\">Nora Ephron\u003c/a> supposedly \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/29/dining/29movie.html\">insisted\u003c/a> that the food both look and taste right. In this movie, the food being cooked and eaten was clearly conceived as a character, something alive and provocative, ripe for interaction: the actors must enjoy what they're spooning up, so their enthusiastic oohs and ahhs ring truer with audiences. The whole thing theoretically hinges on faith in the food's ability to convincingly express itself, which is interesting, considering the film, at its core, isn't so much about food at all. Or at least that's how I saw it at the Kabuki on Saturday afternoon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \"Julie & Julia,\" two stories, separated by continents and over half a century, congeal in parallel narratives: In 1949, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> discovers fine food in Paris and ventures towards the brink of a soon-to-be mighty culinary career; in 2002, \u003ca href=\"http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/\">Julie Powell\u003c/a>, a younger woman, exiled to Queens, directionless and dissatisfied, parlays a therapeutic tear through Child's ultra-famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">\"Mastering the Art of French Cooking\"\u003c/a> into a \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.salon.com/0001399/\">popular blog\u003c/a>, and ventures towards the brink of writerly success in the form of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/031604427X/kqedorg-20\">book deal\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the beginning, Meryl Streep's guffawing party-gal of a gastronomic icon just wants something to do. She likes many things, including hats, but food is the latest fancy, her greatest since arriving in Paris with her husband Paul. Encountering a sprinkling of sexism and a healthy dose of anti-American resistance, Julia studies at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cordonbleu.edu/\">Le Cordon Bleu\u003c/a>, begins teaching classes, and starts work on what will become her seminal tome. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie is about to turn 30. She's not a selfless person, but she works a selfless job, answering phones in a cubicle for the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation post-9/11. Like bleak shades of \u003ca href=\"http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/09_03/SATCfilmingXP_468x460.jpg\">Charlotte, Miranda, and Samantha\u003c/a>, her crummy friends from college torment her over tedious Cobb salad lunches, bragging about the money they make and the professional coups they score, pausing only to scream into cell phones at beleaguered assistants. A failed novelist, Julie also wants something to do, something more, something bigger for herself to give her purpose, an important project to complete -- because, in her mind, she's never been much good at that, the finishing of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film doesn't sufficiently sell Julie's decision to blog about cooking her way through Child's celebrated book. That on-screen moment is weak, her impetus glossed over like ripples in a cake's frosting. Once Julie gets going, her resolve blossoms into a slightly creepy, worshipful obsession. Julia becomes her imaginary friend, a beacon guiding her through recipe after recipe, challenge after challenge, building and shaping her confidence. I start to become concerned when she dresses up like Child for her 30th birthday party, standing smartly before the gathered company, practically saluting, looking a little like a girl scout pretending to be a totalitarian dictator. She's mean to her husband, a sweet, easy-going guy with little cinematic heft. In a nod to gender roles, he kills lobsters when her hand falters, and willingly suffers through indigestion and his wife's marked disinterest in sex. Again and again, he tries to understand as she flies off the handle, frenzied and emotional, whenever a recipe goes wrong, when she's too whacked on gimlets to hear the timer, or, most memorably, when a stuffed chicken slides awkwardly off the kitchen counter and plummets to the floor in a heap of translucent muck, bone, and splattered forcemeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild2.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" width=\"432\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6048\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Slightly creepy, right?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This movie is about women's lives in transition, journeys unfolding across unfamiliar terrain. Even though food is not overly sensualized here, tastes only rarely poured over and described rapturously and richly, it's a movie dependent on the power of food, not just to galvanize our appetites and inspire the actors, but to spur on the characters they inhabit, to drive the narrative. In Julie's case, her love of food merely flickers in comparison with her pressing compulsion to broil, stew, and steam her way through the book, for the sake of the blog. When Julia cooks, she's on a journey in a purer sense, without a fixed deadline, only fretting over the fruits of her labor once they've slid into view. Cooking is passion for her, as wild and satisfying as sex, to which she doesn't hesitate to draw parallels. \"These damn things are as hot as a stiff cock,\" she bursts out giddily in Streep's best Child-ese, as she juggles a piping hot cannelloni. At both discoveries, her joy bubbles over in ribald exaltation, whereas Julie, while acknowledging Child's chronicled passion, both in the kitchen and with Paul, the \"butter to [her] bread\", is too busy counting down the chapters to approach her journey with a similarly holistic vigor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't love the movie, but it was wonderful to see Child rendered so Child-like by a great actress, especially pre-fame, many decades away from becoming the quirky, charming old lady I grew up watching spar with \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-oNv6IZ-w\">Jacques Pepin\u003c/a> every Saturday morning. By comparison, the Julie sequences sink like leaden quenelles. They simply prove a point: in this story, or gathering of stories, recipes are vessels. Over the course of the film, three different characters -- Julie, Julia, and Judith Jones, Child's first publisher -- make \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/Boeuf-Bourguignon-a-La-Julia-Child-148007\">boeuf bourguignon\u003c/a>. The same recipe comes to life in different kitchens, under different circumstances. Everyone who cooks it owns a memory of it; each individual effort passing through the recipe as if it were a conduit of experience. As many millions of cookbook owners can attest, Julia Child, or more accurately, what she represents, is a moveable feast. \"I have conversations with her when I cook,\" says Julie, and she's right. Following a recipe is like having a conversation with convention across time and, maybe, depending on how crazy you are, the person who devised it. Like aspics, recipes can be shaky propositions; they're not infallible. For a variety of reasons, they don't always work the way they're supposed to; they require the flexibility, improvisation, and intuition only continued evolution through personal experience can provide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie despairs when, on the precipice of major media triumph, she finds out the real Julia, not the clucking, whisk-brandishing fairy toque-mother of her fantasies, thinks less than highly of her blog. I'm not surprised; the idea of blogging alone probably couldn't bridge that multi-generational gap, though Child's purported sentiment has been \u003ca href=\"http://thefastertimes.com/foodtrends/2009/08/11/hey-julie-powell-haters-methinks-you-protest-too-much/\">echoed\u003c/a>, unjustly or not, by many of Julie's blogger contemporaries. In the movie, Julie describes blogging as \"yelling into the void.\" She goes from wondering if anyone is reading at all to worrying about what to write because so many people are reading. \"Julie & Julia\" is the first movie I've seen with a built-in blogging debate: are people who share their personal lives online inherently narcissistic and self-indulgent? Are they disingenuous? Are they presumptuous, like some stuffy twit way back in the pre-Internet era, dutifully keeping a diary with the idea it'll later be pored over by fascinated contributors to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nybooks.com/\">New York Review of Books\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What if Julia Child had fallen for Chinese food when she lived there just a few years before moving to Paris? Would American housewives have had to come to terms with \"Mastering the Art of Mandarin Cooking,\" \"Handling Hunan,\" or \"Szechuan From Scratch\"? Might Julie be a directionless, dissatisfied San Franciscan, sequestered in the far reaches of the Richmond District, dashing down Clement Street in search of exotic ingredients, pondering Child's secrets to a sublime \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaolongbao\">Shanghai soup dumpling\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's another blog for another day.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild1.jpg\" alt=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Meryl Streep as Julia Child in Julie and Julia\" width=\"490\" height=\"625\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6047\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Avec poultry\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For every exuberantly stylish and special \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPiQcIxjZTA\">\"Tampopo,\"\u003c/a> a few dozen \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-5RJTf0-Jk\">\"No Reservations\"\u003c/a> sail into theaters to sully the food flick sub-genre: bland, safe, commercial fare smothering run-of-the-mill romance in warmed-over foodie platitudes. The tradition is troublesome, by nature, a challenge. Food engages many senses; apart from the best singularly dedicated cooking shows, the characteristics of a great meal aren't easily palpable to a viewer deprived of taste -- especially when the meal unfolds within the context of a scene in a larger narrative. Food might look okay on-screen, but it rarely comes off as particularly delicious, even in decent movies. Actors can munch on some food stylist's pretty concoction, roll their eyes, and moan embarrassingly with hammy delight, but, so frequently, even the most sumptuous footage -- hyper-real and luscious -- falls flat beneath the weight of woefully unnatural theatrics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the newish \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonypictures.com/movies/juliejulia/\">\"Julie & Julia,\"\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001188/\">Nora Ephron\u003c/a> supposedly \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/29/dining/29movie.html\">insisted\u003c/a> that the food both look and taste right. In this movie, the food being cooked and eaten was clearly conceived as a character, something alive and provocative, ripe for interaction: the actors must enjoy what they're spooning up, so their enthusiastic oohs and ahhs ring truer with audiences. The whole thing theoretically hinges on faith in the food's ability to convincingly express itself, which is interesting, considering the film, at its core, isn't so much about food at all. Or at least that's how I saw it at the Kabuki on Saturday afternoon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \"Julie & Julia,\" two stories, separated by continents and over half a century, congeal in parallel narratives: In 1949, \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> discovers fine food in Paris and ventures towards the brink of a soon-to-be mighty culinary career; in 2002, \u003ca href=\"http://juliepowell.blogspot.com/\">Julie Powell\u003c/a>, a younger woman, exiled to Queens, directionless and dissatisfied, parlays a therapeutic tear through Child's ultra-famous \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0375413405/kqedorg-20\">\"Mastering the Art of French Cooking\"\u003c/a> into a \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.salon.com/0001399/\">popular blog\u003c/a>, and ventures towards the brink of writerly success in the form of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/031604427X/kqedorg-20\">book deal\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the beginning, Meryl Streep's guffawing party-gal of a gastronomic icon just wants something to do. She likes many things, including hats, but food is the latest fancy, her greatest since arriving in Paris with her husband Paul. Encountering a sprinkling of sexism and a healthy dose of anti-American resistance, Julia studies at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cordonbleu.edu/\">Le Cordon Bleu\u003c/a>, begins teaching classes, and starts work on what will become her seminal tome. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie is about to turn 30. She's not a selfless person, but she works a selfless job, answering phones in a cubicle for the Lower Manhattan Development Corporation post-9/11. Like bleak shades of \u003ca href=\"http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/09_03/SATCfilmingXP_468x460.jpg\">Charlotte, Miranda, and Samantha\u003c/a>, her crummy friends from college torment her over tedious Cobb salad lunches, bragging about the money they make and the professional coups they score, pausing only to scream into cell phones at beleaguered assistants. A failed novelist, Julie also wants something to do, something more, something bigger for herself to give her purpose, an important project to complete -- because, in her mind, she's never been much good at that, the finishing of things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The film doesn't sufficiently sell Julie's decision to blog about cooking her way through Child's celebrated book. That on-screen moment is weak, her impetus glossed over like ripples in a cake's frosting. Once Julie gets going, her resolve blossoms into a slightly creepy, worshipful obsession. Julia becomes her imaginary friend, a beacon guiding her through recipe after recipe, challenge after challenge, building and shaping her confidence. I start to become concerned when she dresses up like Child for her 30th birthday party, standing smartly before the gathered company, practically saluting, looking a little like a girl scout pretending to be a totalitarian dictator. She's mean to her husband, a sweet, easy-going guy with little cinematic heft. In a nod to gender roles, he kills lobsters when her hand falters, and willingly suffers through indigestion and his wife's marked disinterest in sex. Again and again, he tries to understand as she flies off the handle, frenzied and emotional, whenever a recipe goes wrong, when she's too whacked on gimlets to hear the timer, or, most memorably, when a stuffed chicken slides awkwardly off the kitchen counter and plummets to the floor in a heap of translucent muck, bone, and splattered forcemeat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/juliachild2.jpg\" alt=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" title=\"Amy Adams as Julie Powell in Julie and Julia\" width=\"432\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6048\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Slightly creepy, right?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This movie is about women's lives in transition, journeys unfolding across unfamiliar terrain. Even though food is not overly sensualized here, tastes only rarely poured over and described rapturously and richly, it's a movie dependent on the power of food, not just to galvanize our appetites and inspire the actors, but to spur on the characters they inhabit, to drive the narrative. In Julie's case, her love of food merely flickers in comparison with her pressing compulsion to broil, stew, and steam her way through the book, for the sake of the blog. When Julia cooks, she's on a journey in a purer sense, without a fixed deadline, only fretting over the fruits of her labor once they've slid into view. Cooking is passion for her, as wild and satisfying as sex, to which she doesn't hesitate to draw parallels. \"These damn things are as hot as a stiff cock,\" she bursts out giddily in Streep's best Child-ese, as she juggles a piping hot cannelloni. At both discoveries, her joy bubbles over in ribald exaltation, whereas Julie, while acknowledging Child's chronicled passion, both in the kitchen and with Paul, the \"butter to [her] bread\", is too busy counting down the chapters to approach her journey with a similarly holistic vigor. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't love the movie, but it was wonderful to see Child rendered so Child-like by a great actress, especially pre-fame, many decades away from becoming the quirky, charming old lady I grew up watching spar with \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-oNv6IZ-w\">Jacques Pepin\u003c/a> every Saturday morning. By comparison, the Julie sequences sink like leaden quenelles. They simply prove a point: in this story, or gathering of stories, recipes are vessels. Over the course of the film, three different characters -- Julie, Julia, and Judith Jones, Child's first publisher -- make \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/Boeuf-Bourguignon-a-La-Julia-Child-148007\">boeuf bourguignon\u003c/a>. The same recipe comes to life in different kitchens, under different circumstances. Everyone who cooks it owns a memory of it; each individual effort passing through the recipe as if it were a conduit of experience. As many millions of cookbook owners can attest, Julia Child, or more accurately, what she represents, is a moveable feast. \"I have conversations with her when I cook,\" says Julie, and she's right. Following a recipe is like having a conversation with convention across time and, maybe, depending on how crazy you are, the person who devised it. Like aspics, recipes can be shaky propositions; they're not infallible. For a variety of reasons, they don't always work the way they're supposed to; they require the flexibility, improvisation, and intuition only continued evolution through personal experience can provide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julie despairs when, on the precipice of major media triumph, she finds out the real Julia, not the clucking, whisk-brandishing fairy toque-mother of her fantasies, thinks less than highly of her blog. I'm not surprised; the idea of blogging alone probably couldn't bridge that multi-generational gap, though Child's purported sentiment has been \u003ca href=\"http://thefastertimes.com/foodtrends/2009/08/11/hey-julie-powell-haters-methinks-you-protest-too-much/\">echoed\u003c/a>, unjustly or not, by many of Julie's blogger contemporaries. In the movie, Julie describes blogging as \"yelling into the void.\" She goes from wondering if anyone is reading at all to worrying about what to write because so many people are reading. \"Julie & Julia\" is the first movie I've seen with a built-in blogging debate: are people who share their personal lives online inherently narcissistic and self-indulgent? Are they disingenuous? Are they presumptuous, like some stuffy twit way back in the pre-Internet era, dutifully keeping a diary with the idea it'll later be pored over by fascinated contributors to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nybooks.com/\">New York Review of Books\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What if Julia Child had fallen for Chinese food when she lived there just a few years before moving to Paris? Would American housewives have had to come to terms with \"Mastering the Art of Mandarin Cooking,\" \"Handling Hunan,\" or \"Szechuan From Scratch\"? Might Julie be a directionless, dissatisfied San Franciscan, sequestered in the far reaches of the Richmond District, dashing down Clement Street in search of exotic ingredients, pondering Child's secrets to a sublime \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaolongbao\">Shanghai soup dumpling\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's another blog for another day.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Swish Steak: Camp Food",
"title": "Swish Steak: Camp Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/phpvpv14tpm.jpg\" alt=\"The Gay Cookbook\" title=\"The Gay Cookbook\" width=\"249\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5960\">Yes, Swish Steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among my cookbooks, there is a recent acquisition I consider to be the jewel in my crown-- a must-have for anyone who fancies herself (or, of course, himself) Queen of the Kitchen: \u003cstrong>The Gay Cookbook\u003c/strong> by Chef Lou Rand Hogan* (Sherbourne Press, 1965).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Gay Cookbook: \"the complete compendium of campy cuisine and menus for men... or what have you\" was first brought to my attention by Celia Sacks of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books on Food\u003c/a>, who had a copy proudly displayed in her store window the last time I visited. She always seems to know what will pique my interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003cem>gay\u003c/em> cookbook? \u003cem>Pre\u003c/em>-Stonewall? I never thought any such thing could exist. I was transfixed. I just had to have a copy for my library. I mentioned the book later that evening to friends over drinks. One month later, those same friends placed a copy in my not-so-little hands. It was probably the most perfect birthday present. Ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I returned home, I opened the book and was immediately struck by how much times have changed since 1965. Not only our food ways, but our slang, too. Especially what I would call gay-speak. The \"girlfriend\" tone has remained, but the terms have certainly changed. There is a self-mockery that may be horrifying to some readers; others might find the embracing of extreme stereotyping fun and, in a sense, freeing. The last two paragraphs of the book's introduction leave no doubt as to what the reader is in for:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Yes, in that magic hour 'tween day and dark, after effacing the ravages of the day's toil, and before the night's serious cruising, ya gotta take on some food. Man, woman, or child, a girl has got to eat!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So we'll offer here a sort of nonsensical cookbook for the androgynous (don't bother to look it up, Maude. It means \"limp-wristed\"), and while we can't guarantee the quality of the guests these dishes may be set before, we do not hesitate to assure the reader that all preparations and recipe details are honest and practical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here then is the GAY COOKBOOK, which some queen will promptly call FAGGOT'S FARE.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Fierce! At least we have been warned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I knew I just had to make something from this book. But what? Something from Chapter Six: That Old, Tired Fish? Chapter Five: The Shell Game; Oysters, Lobsters, Shrimp, and What To Do With Crabs? I finally settled on the dish I feel best exemplifies this time capsule of Camp: Swish Steak-- a dish that just may have been served in many a home among the Swish Alps-- otherwise known as the Hollywood Hills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/swish-steak.jpg\" alt=\"Swish Steak with Jim Nabors\" title=\"Swish Steak with Jim Nabors\" width=\"235\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5955\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Swish Steak\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe is delivered to you as originally written. The curly parsley is my own photographic addition. I happen to think that this is an unintentional omission of the author. What gay chef in his right mind would not add a splash of color to a monochromatic dish?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did, however, omit the MSG. My concern is not for my own health, but for yours. And for the health of Dr. Joyce Brothers. If she happened to wander into your kitchen uninvited and took a bite of MSG-laden Swish Steak, it would kill her. I know this for a fact because she told me so. If you are too young to remember Dr. Joyce Brothers, then you are certainly too young to remember this cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It really does taste like the 1960's. Or, at least this is what I imagine them to taste like. I was only there for about five months. And on bottle-fed formula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suggest you pop this little number into the oven, pour yourself some Cream Sherry, and sit back to enjoy a careful watching of \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065488/\">The Boys in The Band\u003c/a>. By the time you've finished, dinner will be ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Go on, \u003cem>gurl\u003c/em>. Dish it out like only you know how to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 Steaks (for swishing)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 medium onions, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 pts. gravy--OR-- part gravy, part rich stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 buds garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp. coarse-ground Black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp. salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ½ tsp. MSG\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 Tbs. flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 Tbs. fat (bacon if possible)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(opt.) small can mushrooms 'stems & pieces'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(opt.) small can Tomato sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(opt.) 1 Tbs. meat extract (V.V., Boveril, etc.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong> [No paragraph breaks]:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay each steak flat; pound lightly with a meat tenderizer (a sort of mallet-like thing with a big and peculiar shaped head), or give each steak a dozen or so whacks with the blunt back of a heave knife, sort of criss-cross on either side. These blows should just cut the surface of the meat but not too deeeply [sic]. Dredge each piece in the flour; heat fat in heavy skillet to very hot. Sear (Brown... as if you didn't know...) meat on both sides in fat in skillet. Take meat out of skillet, put into roast pan (one with a cover). Toss sliced onions and garlic into fat in skillet, cover, cook 3-5 minutes; then dump it all into the roast pan onto the steaks. Add salt and pepper, the MSG, the leftover flour, the mushrooms and tomato sauce if used. Pour stock and gravy (any left-over, rich, brown gravy, except 'sweet-sour' or sauerbraten gravy), into roaster over and around the meat. Cover and cook in 325° oven until tender. This may be 2 or 3 hours. For last half hour, take cover off roast pan, but gravy should still just cover the meat. When meat is real tender, carefully take steaks out of the gravy and set aside on a platter or pan in a warm place. Why not the oven with the heat turned off? Scrape out all the sauce, etc. from the roast pan into a small sauce pot, getting every bit of it. Let this sit for a while on the stove until all the fat-- and there'll be quite a lot of it-- rises to the top. Skim this away. The gravy, full of onion, mushrooms, etc. should be thick enough; taste for seasoning, and you're ready for chow down! Serve the Swish Steak with some of the sauce over each piece of meat. This is wonderful with hot buttered noodles, or with mashed potatoes, etc. Men just love this one, though whether it's the 'swish' or the 'steak' would be hard to say. But-- keep 'em happy...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Lou Rand Hogan was also the creator of what is believed to be the first gay detective in print (the sexual identity of that perennial bachelor, Sherlock Holmes, is open for debate), Francis Morley, in Rough Trade (originally titled The Gay Detective), also from 1965. The Gay Cookbook, incidentally, was written right here in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Yes, Swish Steak.\r\n\r\nAmong my cookbooks, there is a recent acquisition I consider to be the jewel in my crown-- a must-have for anyone who fancies herself (or, of course, himself) Queen of the Kitchen: The Gay Cookbook by Chef Lou Rand Hogan* (Sherbourne Press, 1965).\r\n\r\nThe Gay Cookbook: \"the complete compendium of campy cuisine and menus for men... or what have you\" was first brought to my attention by Celia Sacks of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books on Food\u003c/a>, who had a copy proudly displayed in her store window the last time I visited. She always seems to know what will pique my interest.",
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"description": "Yes, Swish Steak.\r\n\r\nAmong my cookbooks, there is a recent acquisition I consider to be the jewel in my crown-- a must-have for anyone who fancies herself (or, of course, himself) Queen of the Kitchen: The Gay Cookbook by Chef Lou Rand Hogan* (Sherbourne Press, 1965).\r\n\r\nThe Gay Cookbook: "the complete compendium of campy cuisine and menus for men... or what have you" was first brought to my attention by Celia Sacks of Omnivore Books on Food, who had a copy proudly displayed in her store window the last time I visited. She always seems to know what will pique my interest.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/phpvpv14tpm.jpg\" alt=\"The Gay Cookbook\" title=\"The Gay Cookbook\" width=\"249\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5960\">Yes, Swish Steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among my cookbooks, there is a recent acquisition I consider to be the jewel in my crown-- a must-have for anyone who fancies herself (or, of course, himself) Queen of the Kitchen: \u003cstrong>The Gay Cookbook\u003c/strong> by Chef Lou Rand Hogan* (Sherbourne Press, 1965).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Gay Cookbook: \"the complete compendium of campy cuisine and menus for men... or what have you\" was first brought to my attention by Celia Sacks of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\">Omnivore Books on Food\u003c/a>, who had a copy proudly displayed in her store window the last time I visited. She always seems to know what will pique my interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003cem>gay\u003c/em> cookbook? \u003cem>Pre\u003c/em>-Stonewall? I never thought any such thing could exist. I was transfixed. I just had to have a copy for my library. I mentioned the book later that evening to friends over drinks. One month later, those same friends placed a copy in my not-so-little hands. It was probably the most perfect birthday present. Ever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I returned home, I opened the book and was immediately struck by how much times have changed since 1965. Not only our food ways, but our slang, too. Especially what I would call gay-speak. The \"girlfriend\" tone has remained, but the terms have certainly changed. There is a self-mockery that may be horrifying to some readers; others might find the embracing of extreme stereotyping fun and, in a sense, freeing. The last two paragraphs of the book's introduction leave no doubt as to what the reader is in for:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Yes, in that magic hour 'tween day and dark, after effacing the ravages of the day's toil, and before the night's serious cruising, ya gotta take on some food. Man, woman, or child, a girl has got to eat!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So we'll offer here a sort of nonsensical cookbook for the androgynous (don't bother to look it up, Maude. It means \"limp-wristed\"), and while we can't guarantee the quality of the guests these dishes may be set before, we do not hesitate to assure the reader that all preparations and recipe details are honest and practical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here then is the GAY COOKBOOK, which some queen will promptly call FAGGOT'S FARE.\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Fierce! At least we have been warned.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I knew I just had to make something from this book. But what? Something from Chapter Six: That Old, Tired Fish? Chapter Five: The Shell Game; Oysters, Lobsters, Shrimp, and What To Do With Crabs? I finally settled on the dish I feel best exemplifies this time capsule of Camp: Swish Steak-- a dish that just may have been served in many a home among the Swish Alps-- otherwise known as the Hollywood Hills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/swish-steak.jpg\" alt=\"Swish Steak with Jim Nabors\" title=\"Swish Steak with Jim Nabors\" width=\"235\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5955\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Swish Steak\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves 4.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe is delivered to you as originally written. The curly parsley is my own photographic addition. I happen to think that this is an unintentional omission of the author. What gay chef in his right mind would not add a splash of color to a monochromatic dish?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did, however, omit the MSG. My concern is not for my own health, but for yours. And for the health of Dr. Joyce Brothers. If she happened to wander into your kitchen uninvited and took a bite of MSG-laden Swish Steak, it would kill her. I know this for a fact because she told me so. If you are too young to remember Dr. Joyce Brothers, then you are certainly too young to remember this cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It really does taste like the 1960's. Or, at least this is what I imagine them to taste like. I was only there for about five months. And on bottle-fed formula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suggest you pop this little number into the oven, pour yourself some Cream Sherry, and sit back to enjoy a careful watching of \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065488/\">The Boys in The Band\u003c/a>. By the time you've finished, dinner will be ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Go on, \u003cem>gurl\u003c/em>. Dish it out like only you know how to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 Steaks (for swishing)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 medium onions, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 pts. gravy--OR-- part gravy, part rich stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 buds garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp. coarse-ground Black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tsp. salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ½ tsp. MSG\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 Tbs. flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 Tbs. fat (bacon if possible)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(opt.) small can mushrooms 'stems & pieces'\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(opt.) small can Tomato sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(opt.) 1 Tbs. meat extract (V.V., Boveril, etc.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong> [No paragraph breaks]:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay each steak flat; pound lightly with a meat tenderizer (a sort of mallet-like thing with a big and peculiar shaped head), or give each steak a dozen or so whacks with the blunt back of a heave knife, sort of criss-cross on either side. These blows should just cut the surface of the meat but not too deeeply [sic]. Dredge each piece in the flour; heat fat in heavy skillet to very hot. Sear (Brown... as if you didn't know...) meat on both sides in fat in skillet. Take meat out of skillet, put into roast pan (one with a cover). Toss sliced onions and garlic into fat in skillet, cover, cook 3-5 minutes; then dump it all into the roast pan onto the steaks. Add salt and pepper, the MSG, the leftover flour, the mushrooms and tomato sauce if used. Pour stock and gravy (any left-over, rich, brown gravy, except 'sweet-sour' or sauerbraten gravy), into roaster over and around the meat. Cover and cook in 325° oven until tender. This may be 2 or 3 hours. For last half hour, take cover off roast pan, but gravy should still just cover the meat. When meat is real tender, carefully take steaks out of the gravy and set aside on a platter or pan in a warm place. Why not the oven with the heat turned off? Scrape out all the sauce, etc. from the roast pan into a small sauce pot, getting every bit of it. Let this sit for a while on the stove until all the fat-- and there'll be quite a lot of it-- rises to the top. Skim this away. The gravy, full of onion, mushrooms, etc. should be thick enough; taste for seasoning, and you're ready for chow down! Serve the Swish Steak with some of the sauce over each piece of meat. This is wonderful with hot buttered noodles, or with mashed potatoes, etc. Men just love this one, though whether it's the 'swish' or the 'steak' would be hard to say. But-- keep 'em happy...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Lou Rand Hogan was also the creator of what is believed to be the first gay detective in print (the sexual identity of that perennial bachelor, Sherlock Holmes, is open for debate), Francis Morley, in Rough Trade (originally titled The Gay Detective), also from 1965. The Gay Cookbook, incidentally, was written right here in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Highlight Reel",
"title": "SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Highlight Reel",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-ribbon-cutting.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" title=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5872\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Ribbon Cutting: Linda Lim, Mayor Gavin Newsom, Kevin Westlye, Tyler Florence\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To quote Mayor Gavin Newsom, \"Aspen, eat your heart out.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An epic event 2 ½ years in the making, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/a> was like a food-lover's Disneyland with over 200 of the Bay Area's finest chefs, 450 wineries, and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/09/cocktail-culture-at-sf-chefs-food-wine/\">mixologists\u003c/a> aplenty strutting their stuff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past four days, Union Square was transformed into a playground of tastings, seminars, and demonstrations from a who's who list of culinary legends, rising stars, artisans, and experts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-80909-view-from-the-top-thomas-keller-charles-phan-douglas-keane.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" title=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>View from the top: Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-sara-moulton-cindy-pawlcyn.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" title=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5881\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-martin-yan.jpg\" alt=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" title=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Martin Yan, Yan Can Cook\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-as-seen-on-tv-jennifer-biesty-ryan-scott.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" title=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5876\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Top Cheftestants Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sometimes feel like a blessing and a curse to live in a city with so many amazing restaurants to try because let's face it, who can afford to try them all? One can read about them, drool over descriptions and photos of them, and then place them on an ever-growing bucket list of places to try. The Grand Tasting Tent at \u003cstrong>SF Chefs\u003c/strong> provided the rare opportunity to hone that list, allowing participants to really taste, touch, see, and feel for themselves, a sliver of what some of these heralded restaurants are all about. The air was electric and the excitement palpable, as the wine flowed and the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/sfeats/sf-chefs-food-wine-highlight-reel/#more-3396\">bites\u003c/a> were dished out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-moss-room-monterey-squid-3.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" title=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-5870\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Monterey Squid, Chef Justin Simoneaux, Moss Room \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-lemongrass-thai-green-wrap.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" title=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5891\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Thai Wrap, Chef Toi Sawatdee, Lemongrass Thai Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was interesting to see the chefs do riffs on many of the same ingredients that are in peak season right now: corn, heirloom tomatoes, melons, figs, and refreshing preparations like gazpachos and ceviches. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-cortez-brulee-fig.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" title=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5892\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Bruleed Fig with Kaffir Lime Oil and Vanilla Salt, Chef Jenn Puccio, Cortez\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, there was no shortage of parties…all benefiting good causes of course: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ggra.org/default.aspx\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association Scholarship Foundation\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowaa.org/Page.aspx?pid=183\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.openhand.org/\">Project Open Hand\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sffoodbank.org/\">San Francisco Food Bank\u003c/a> (a member of Feeding America). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thursday night reunited Rising Star Chefs and Bar Stars named by the San Francisco Chronicle, and a special dinner prepared by Arnold Eric Wong (E&O Trading Co.), Charles Phan (The Slanted Door/Heaven's Dog), and Martin Yan (Yan Can Cook). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday night honored America's Culinary Pioneers, Emily Luchetti (Farallon/Waterbar), Judy Rodgers (Zuni Café), Patricia Unterman (Hayes Street Grill), Joyce Goldstein (author and restaurateur), and Chuck Williams (Williams-Sonoma). There was also Out in the Fog, a celebration of the diverse LGBT community, at Elizabeth Falkner's Orson. It was chic, it was sexy, and it had a giant projection of Julia baking a cake on the wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Party time went strong through Saturday night, and the tasting tent was bumping with DJ Chef Hubert Keller laying down some beats at the Urban BBQ. Rock Star. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-urban-bbq-dj-hubert-keller.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" title=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5883\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>DJ Chef Hubert Keller\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>God forbid that dancing put anyone in a negative calorie count. The night continued at a Chocolate Enchantment after-party, complete with a floor to ceiling spinning display of chocolate decadence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-chocolate-enchantment.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" title=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5877\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend's festivities were a true celebration of the unique culinary spirit of San Francisco, bringing together a community of both industry and non-industry people through a common love of food. It was a treat to have executive chefs live and in person, serving their dishes and chatting about their food, or seeing them interact with one another and catching a glimpse of that intriguing \"chef's world\" that has captured our imagination. We are a city that loves our food, and by direct association, honors the craftsmen and -women who bring joy through food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/strong> hit on a winning combination of accessibility to hometown celeb-status chefs, utterly delicious food, fine wine, education, and awareness of important issues in food politics. It was fun, multi-faceted, and full of passion. It was, in a nutshell, San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-bread-montage-trolley.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" title=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5864\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Ding-ding\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-ribbon-cutting.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" title=\"SF Chefs.Food.Wine. Ribbon Cutting\" width=\"444\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5872\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs. Food. Wine. Ribbon Cutting: Linda Lim, Mayor Gavin Newsom, Kevin Westlye, Tyler Florence\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To quote Mayor Gavin Newsom, \"Aspen, eat your heart out.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>An epic event 2 ½ years in the making, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchefsfoodwine.com/\">SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/a> was like a food-lover's Disneyland with over 200 of the Bay Area's finest chefs, 450 wineries, and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/09/cocktail-culture-at-sf-chefs-food-wine/\">mixologists\u003c/a> aplenty strutting their stuff. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past four days, Union Square was transformed into a playground of tastings, seminars, and demonstrations from a who's who list of culinary legends, rising stars, artisans, and experts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-80909-view-from-the-top-thomas-keller-charles-phan-douglas-keane.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" title=\"SF Chefs Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>View from the top: Charles Phan, Thomas Keller, Douglas Keane\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-sara-moulton-cindy-pawlcyn.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" title=\"SF Chefs Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawclyn\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5881\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Sara Moulton and Cindy Pawlcyn\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-martin-yan.jpg\" alt=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" title=\"Sf Chefs Martin Yan\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Martin Yan, Yan Can Cook\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-as-seen-on-tv-jennifer-biesty-ryan-scott.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" title=\"SF Chefs Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5876\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Top Cheftestants Jennifer Biesty and Ryan Scott\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It sometimes feel like a blessing and a curse to live in a city with so many amazing restaurants to try because let's face it, who can afford to try them all? One can read about them, drool over descriptions and photos of them, and then place them on an ever-growing bucket list of places to try. The Grand Tasting Tent at \u003cstrong>SF Chefs\u003c/strong> provided the rare opportunity to hone that list, allowing participants to really taste, touch, see, and feel for themselves, a sliver of what some of these heralded restaurants are all about. The air was electric and the excitement palpable, as the wine flowed and the \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/sfeats/sf-chefs-food-wine-highlight-reel/#more-3396\">bites\u003c/a> were dished out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-opening-moss-room-monterey-squid-3.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" title=\"SF Chefs Moss Room Monterey Squid\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-5870\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Monterey Squid, Chef Justin Simoneaux, Moss Room \u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8709-tasting-tent-lemongrass-thai-green-wrap.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" title=\"SF Chefs Lemongrass Thai Green Wrap\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5891\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Thai Wrap, Chef Toi Sawatdee, Lemongrass Thai Cuisine\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was interesting to see the chefs do riffs on many of the same ingredients that are in peak season right now: corn, heirloom tomatoes, melons, figs, and refreshing preparations like gazpachos and ceviches. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-tasting-tent-cortez-brulee-fig.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" title=\"SF Chefs Cortez bruleed fig\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5892\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Bruleed Fig with Kaffir Lime Oil and Vanilla Salt, Chef Jenn Puccio, Cortez\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, there was no shortage of parties…all benefiting good causes of course: the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ggra.org/default.aspx\">Golden Gate Restaurant Association Scholarship Foundation\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mowaa.org/Page.aspx?pid=183\">Meals on Wheels\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.openhand.org/\">Project Open Hand\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sffoodbank.org/\">San Francisco Food Bank\u003c/a> (a member of Feeding America). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thursday night reunited Rising Star Chefs and Bar Stars named by the San Francisco Chronicle, and a special dinner prepared by Arnold Eric Wong (E&O Trading Co.), Charles Phan (The Slanted Door/Heaven's Dog), and Martin Yan (Yan Can Cook). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Friday night honored America's Culinary Pioneers, Emily Luchetti (Farallon/Waterbar), Judy Rodgers (Zuni Café), Patricia Unterman (Hayes Street Grill), Joyce Goldstein (author and restaurateur), and Chuck Williams (Williams-Sonoma). There was also Out in the Fog, a celebration of the diverse LGBT community, at Elizabeth Falkner's Orson. It was chic, it was sexy, and it had a giant projection of Julia baking a cake on the wall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Party time went strong through Saturday night, and the tasting tent was bumping with DJ Chef Hubert Keller laying down some beats at the Urban BBQ. Rock Star. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-urban-bbq-dj-hubert-keller.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" title=\"SF Chefs DJ Hubert Keller\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5883\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>DJ Chef Hubert Keller\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>God forbid that dancing put anyone in a negative calorie count. The night continued at a Chocolate Enchantment after-party, complete with a floor to ceiling spinning display of chocolate decadence. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8809-chocolate-enchantment.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" title=\"SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5877\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>SF Chefs chocolate enchantment\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend's festivities were a true celebration of the unique culinary spirit of San Francisco, bringing together a community of both industry and non-industry people through a common love of food. It was a treat to have executive chefs live and in person, serving their dishes and chatting about their food, or seeing them interact with one another and catching a glimpse of that intriguing \"chef's world\" that has captured our imagination. We are a city that loves our food, and by direct association, honors the craftsmen and -women who bring joy through food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SF Chefs. Food. Wine.\u003c/strong> hit on a winning combination of accessibility to hometown celeb-status chefs, utterly delicious food, fine wine, education, and awareness of important issues in food politics. It was fun, multi-faceted, and full of passion. It was, in a nutshell, San Francisco. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/sf-chefs-8609-bread-montage-trolley.jpg\" alt=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" title=\"SF Chefs Bread Montage Trolley Car\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5864\">\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>Ding-ding\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Graham Crackers: Eat Them or Go Blind",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5590\" title=\"graham crackers\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/graham-crackers.jpg\" alt=\"graham crackers\" width=\"261\" height=\"350\">I am suddenly turned on by the thought of graham crackers. And that is just the sort of attitude that would make Reverend Graham turn in his grave, since I am undoing all of his good work. Not Billy Graham. He's still (barely) alive, though he also may not approve. I'm talking Sylvester Graham, the inventor of the eponymous cracker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The graham cracker was created in tandem with the Graham Diet, which advocated fresh fruits and vegetables, whole wheat, and lots of fiber, and denounced meats, alcohol, and spices. Dairy was to be used sparingly. A forefather of Dr. Kellogg and his cornflake-fueled sanitarium, Graham firmly believed that a bland diet would prevent people from having impure thoughts, therefore preventing masturbation (which Graham believed lead to blindness and insanity).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that is correct. The graham cracker was originally invented to curb sexual desire. I think that is a lot to ask from a cracker, don't you?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Small wonder graham crackers play no major role in my adult life, save at the bottom of the occasional pie or cheesecake, but they were an ever-present staple in my household throughout my childhood. It's enough to make me think my crafty mother was fully aware of this cracker's mystical, anti-inflammatory powers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How clever, too, the scoutmasters of this country for popularizing the s'more. Leaving a group of adolescent boys out in the wild seems to be asking for trouble, but stuff them with enough graham crackers and parents can rest assured that the only sticks those boys will be rubbing together will be to make a campfire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you uncover any more graham cracker-related conspiracies, please contact me. I need to know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the heat of summer has got you all sweaty and lathered, I propose cooling your jets with some homemade graham crackers. For extra measure, substitute saltpeter for cinnamon in the topping as listed in the recipe below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Graham Crackers\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone seems to be in agreement that \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nancy_Silverton\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a>'s recipe for these beauties is the very last word, so who am I to argue? Here is her recipe, more or less. Mostly more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes about 10 4\" crackers or 20 2\" ones. The math is easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry or all-purpose flour. \u003cem>Un\u003c/em>bleached. Dr. Graham loathed bleached flours, so please bear that in mind.\u003cbr>\n1 cup dark brown sugar, lightly packed\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup honey (mildly flavored, like clover)\u003cbr>\n5 tablespoons whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the topping:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt. Pulse just enough to incorporate the ingredients. Add butter and pulse until mixture is the consistency of coarse meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, milk, and vanilla extract. Add to the flour mixture and pulse until the dough just comes together. Don't worry, it's supposed to be sticky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Turn dough onto a lightly-floured work surface and pat the dough into a rectangle about 1 inch in thickness. Wrap in plastic and chill until firm; anywhere from 2 hours to overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Prepare the topping by combining sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Divide the dough in half and return the unused half to the refrigerator. Sift an even layer of flour onto your work surface and roll the dough into a long rectangle about 1/8\" think. The dough will still be sticky, so flour as needed. Trim the edges of the rectangle to 4\" wide. Working with the short side that should be facing you, cut the strip every 4 1/2\". (I chose to make mine 2\" wide, but that is a personal preference.) Place crackers on a parchment-lined baking sheet, sprinkle with topping, and refrigerate. Repeat rolling and cutting actions with the second half of the dough. If you are frugal and not lazy, gather the remaining dough scraps, re-form, refrigerate and repeat. The crackers should chill to firm for another 30 to 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Preheat your oven to 350º F and adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Make a vertical line through the middle of the crackers, being careful not to cut all the way through the dough. Score them. That's the better word. Prick the dough in decorative rows. But not too many. Mine look rather like dominoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Bake for 25 minutes, until browned and slightly firm-to-tough. Rotate baking sheet (or sheets, depending on how many you are making) half way through baking to ensure an even doneness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Let the them and your passions cool, put on a nice Andy Williams album, place a cracker or two in the unhairy palm of your hand and enjoy with a wholesome glass of milk.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The graham cracker was created in tandem with the Graham Diet, which advocated fresh fruits and vegetables, whole wheat, and lots of fiber, and denounced meats, alcohol, and spices. Dairy was to be used sparingly. A forefather of Dr. Kellogg and his cornflake-fueled sanitarium, Graham firmly believed that a bland diet would prevent people from having impure thoughts and such a reduction would prevent masturbation (which Graham believed lead to blindness and insanity).\r\n\r\nYes, that is correct. The graham cracker was originally invented to curb sexual desire. I think that is a lot to ask from a cracker, don't you?\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-5590\" title=\"graham crackers\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/graham-crackers.jpg\" alt=\"graham crackers\" width=\"261\" height=\"350\">I am suddenly turned on by the thought of graham crackers. And that is just the sort of attitude that would make Reverend Graham turn in his grave, since I am undoing all of his good work. Not Billy Graham. He's still (barely) alive, though he also may not approve. I'm talking Sylvester Graham, the inventor of the eponymous cracker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The graham cracker was created in tandem with the Graham Diet, which advocated fresh fruits and vegetables, whole wheat, and lots of fiber, and denounced meats, alcohol, and spices. Dairy was to be used sparingly. A forefather of Dr. Kellogg and his cornflake-fueled sanitarium, Graham firmly believed that a bland diet would prevent people from having impure thoughts, therefore preventing masturbation (which Graham believed lead to blindness and insanity).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, that is correct. The graham cracker was originally invented to curb sexual desire. I think that is a lot to ask from a cracker, don't you?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Small wonder graham crackers play no major role in my adult life, save at the bottom of the occasional pie or cheesecake, but they were an ever-present staple in my household throughout my childhood. It's enough to make me think my crafty mother was fully aware of this cracker's mystical, anti-inflammatory powers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How clever, too, the scoutmasters of this country for popularizing the s'more. Leaving a group of adolescent boys out in the wild seems to be asking for trouble, but stuff them with enough graham crackers and parents can rest assured that the only sticks those boys will be rubbing together will be to make a campfire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you uncover any more graham cracker-related conspiracies, please contact me. I need to know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the heat of summer has got you all sweaty and lathered, I propose cooling your jets with some homemade graham crackers. For extra measure, substitute saltpeter for cinnamon in the topping as listed in the recipe below.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Graham Crackers\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone seems to be in agreement that \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nancy_Silverton\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a>'s recipe for these beauties is the very last word, so who am I to argue? Here is her recipe, more or less. Mostly more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Makes about 10 4\" crackers or 20 2\" ones. The math is easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry or all-purpose flour. \u003cem>Un\u003c/em>bleached. Dr. Graham loathed bleached flours, so please bear that in mind.\u003cbr>\n1 cup dark brown sugar, lightly packed\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup honey (mildly flavored, like clover)\u003cbr>\n5 tablespoons whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the topping:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt. Pulse just enough to incorporate the ingredients. Add butter and pulse until mixture is the consistency of coarse meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, milk, and vanilla extract. Add to the flour mixture and pulse until the dough just comes together. Don't worry, it's supposed to be sticky.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Turn dough onto a lightly-floured work surface and pat the dough into a rectangle about 1 inch in thickness. Wrap in plastic and chill until firm; anywhere from 2 hours to overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Prepare the topping by combining sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Divide the dough in half and return the unused half to the refrigerator. Sift an even layer of flour onto your work surface and roll the dough into a long rectangle about 1/8\" think. The dough will still be sticky, so flour as needed. Trim the edges of the rectangle to 4\" wide. Working with the short side that should be facing you, cut the strip every 4 1/2\". (I chose to make mine 2\" wide, but that is a personal preference.) Place crackers on a parchment-lined baking sheet, sprinkle with topping, and refrigerate. Repeat rolling and cutting actions with the second half of the dough. If you are frugal and not lazy, gather the remaining dough scraps, re-form, refrigerate and repeat. The crackers should chill to firm for another 30 to 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Preheat your oven to 350º F and adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Make a vertical line through the middle of the crackers, being careful not to cut all the way through the dough. Score them. That's the better word. Prick the dough in decorative rows. But not too many. Mine look rather like dominoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Bake for 25 minutes, until browned and slightly firm-to-tough. Rotate baking sheet (or sheets, depending on how many you are making) half way through baking to ensure an even doneness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Let the them and your passions cool, put on a nice Andy Williams album, place a cracker or two in the unhairy palm of your hand and enjoy with a wholesome glass of milk.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4735\" title=\"frybread - Indian tacos\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_taco1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread - Indian tacos\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As California's road trip season begins, it's time to pull out that list of foods that are worth a detour or two. If you're passing by or through tribal land, allow time in your day and space in your stomach for a stop at roadside stalls offering fry bread or, even better, Indian tacos. Many of us are all a-twitter about the mash-up of Korean bbq and tortillas. But this much quieter and long established blend of taco toppings on soft, still-hot flatbread is better than anything I've tasted from digitally hyped menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4734\" title=\"frybread stall\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_stall1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread stall\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the taco aficionados among you: Do not pepper me with hate comments about what constitutes a \"real\" taco. Take it up with the Indian Nations. For the politically minded, I acknowledge that the physical and cultural repercussions of making refined white flour a daily staple, is not something to celebrate, especially in communities stranded both literally and figuratively in the middle of vast food deserts. Like many foods we love, from latkes to lumpia, eating more isn't eating better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those who are open to the culinary creativity of everyday folks, then this is food worth savoring. During your summer travels, look for stands located on busier strips near post offices, grocery stores or tribal councils. For the best fry breads, plan on arriving earlier in the day, as they will sell out. Peek around and see if there are cast iron pans at the ready. Each round of dough should be patted by hand and fried to order, and if it's your first time, order a plain one to enjoy fry bread at its humblest. If you like funnel cakes, doughnuts, angel wings, or those little bits of leftover pie dough that your mom fried up just for you, then you'll be right at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4733\" title=\"frybread small round\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_smallround1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread small round\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many give Navajos of the Southwest the blue ribbon for making the best fry bread, but tribes all across the country have perfected their own versions. Some use baking powder; others have developed yeasty variations. Big or small, round or square, thin or hefty -- everyone has their favorite way of making it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wish I could say that fry bread has a happy history. Stories that includes broken treaties, prison camps and reservations, surplus commodities and starvation are not the ones usually passed around while we're stuffing our faces. But like bitter parsley and unsalted bread, times of suffering are also passed from table to table with pride. We are here. We survived. We are together. We will prevail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pow wows are one of the best places to enjoy native foods. Celebratory gatherings, these were banned by our government until the 1960s, but fortunately, they now appear annually in every region. Search this \u003ca href=\"http://www.snowwowl.com/pwlinks.html\">\u003cstrong>pow wow calendar for California\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to see if you'll be near one this year. Be sure it's open to the public, and check for special events that the kids will especially enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fry bread is super easy to make, and kids will enjoy patting their own rounds. For a healthier version, try grilling the bread, another trick that is family friendly and even easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4732\" title=\"frybread meal\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_meal1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread meal\" width=\"500\" height=\"266\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FRY BREAD\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is adapted from one that appears in the excellent book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Foods-Americas-Native-Recipes-Traditions/dp/1580082599/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1245694824&sr=1-1\">Foods of the Americas\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, by Fernando and Marlene Divina, published in partnership with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nmai.si.edu/\">\u003cstrong>Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Fry bread is usually cooked until golden, without deep browning or char marks. You can sprinkle the rounds with cinnamon and sugar for a sweet treat, or wrap your favorite sandwich fillings for a savory meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8 small rounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon baking powder\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups warm water\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil, for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a bowl, combine and stir together the flour, baking powder and salt. Make a well and then pour in the water. Form a soft dough, and then knead very gently and briefly to form a ball. Roll into a log, cover with a clean towel and let rest for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut the dough crosswise into 8 pieces, keeping the pieces covered while you're working. Patting with floured hands and using a rolling pin, form rounds that are about 1/4-inch thick. Dust both sides of each round evenly with flour, stack and cover with a cloth until ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To fry: Heat 1 inch of oil in a deep, wide pan over medium-high heat. Cook 1 to 2 pieces of dough at a time, taking care not to overcrowd. Cook, turning once, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Cook one first, and test for doneness before continuing with the other rounds. The fry bread should be dry and crisp on the outside, moist on the inside. Drain on paper towels and serve will still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To grill: Prepare charcoal or heat a gas grill to medium-high. After forming the rounds, place the dough on the grill rack and cook until bubbles form and the dough has risen slightly, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. The surface of the bread should be dry to the touch.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4735\" title=\"frybread - Indian tacos\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_taco1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread - Indian tacos\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As California's road trip season begins, it's time to pull out that list of foods that are worth a detour or two. If you're passing by or through tribal land, allow time in your day and space in your stomach for a stop at roadside stalls offering fry bread or, even better, Indian tacos. Many of us are all a-twitter about the mash-up of Korean bbq and tortillas. But this much quieter and long established blend of taco toppings on soft, still-hot flatbread is better than anything I've tasted from digitally hyped menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4734\" title=\"frybread stall\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_stall1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread stall\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the taco aficionados among you: Do not pepper me with hate comments about what constitutes a \"real\" taco. Take it up with the Indian Nations. For the politically minded, I acknowledge that the physical and cultural repercussions of making refined white flour a daily staple, is not something to celebrate, especially in communities stranded both literally and figuratively in the middle of vast food deserts. Like many foods we love, from latkes to lumpia, eating more isn't eating better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those who are open to the culinary creativity of everyday folks, then this is food worth savoring. During your summer travels, look for stands located on busier strips near post offices, grocery stores or tribal councils. For the best fry breads, plan on arriving earlier in the day, as they will sell out. Peek around and see if there are cast iron pans at the ready. Each round of dough should be patted by hand and fried to order, and if it's your first time, order a plain one to enjoy fry bread at its humblest. If you like funnel cakes, doughnuts, angel wings, or those little bits of leftover pie dough that your mom fried up just for you, then you'll be right at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4733\" title=\"frybread small round\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_smallround1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread small round\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many give Navajos of the Southwest the blue ribbon for making the best fry bread, but tribes all across the country have perfected their own versions. Some use baking powder; others have developed yeasty variations. Big or small, round or square, thin or hefty -- everyone has their favorite way of making it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wish I could say that fry bread has a happy history. Stories that includes broken treaties, prison camps and reservations, surplus commodities and starvation are not the ones usually passed around while we're stuffing our faces. But like bitter parsley and unsalted bread, times of suffering are also passed from table to table with pride. We are here. We survived. We are together. We will prevail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pow wows are one of the best places to enjoy native foods. Celebratory gatherings, these were banned by our government until the 1960s, but fortunately, they now appear annually in every region. Search this \u003ca href=\"http://www.snowwowl.com/pwlinks.html\">\u003cstrong>pow wow calendar for California\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> to see if you'll be near one this year. Be sure it's open to the public, and check for special events that the kids will especially enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fry bread is super easy to make, and kids will enjoy patting their own rounds. For a healthier version, try grilling the bread, another trick that is family friendly and even easier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4732\" title=\"frybread meal\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/frybread_meal1.jpg\" alt=\"frybread meal\" width=\"500\" height=\"266\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FRY BREAD\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe is adapted from one that appears in the excellent book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Foods-Americas-Native-Recipes-Traditions/dp/1580082599/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1245694824&sr=1-1\">Foods of the Americas\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, by Fernando and Marlene Divina, published in partnership with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nmai.si.edu/\">\u003cstrong>Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. Fry bread is usually cooked until golden, without deep browning or char marks. You can sprinkle the rounds with cinnamon and sugar for a sweet treat, or wrap your favorite sandwich fillings for a savory meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8 small rounds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon baking powder\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups warm water\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil, for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a bowl, combine and stir together the flour, baking powder and salt. Make a well and then pour in the water. Form a soft dough, and then knead very gently and briefly to form a ball. Roll into a log, cover with a clean towel and let rest for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut the dough crosswise into 8 pieces, keeping the pieces covered while you're working. Patting with floured hands and using a rolling pin, form rounds that are about 1/4-inch thick. Dust both sides of each round evenly with flour, stack and cover with a cloth until ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. To fry: Heat 1 inch of oil in a deep, wide pan over medium-high heat. Cook 1 to 2 pieces of dough at a time, taking care not to overcrowd. Cook, turning once, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Cook one first, and test for doneness before continuing with the other rounds. The fry bread should be dry and crisp on the outside, moist on the inside. Drain on paper towels and serve will still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. To grill: Prepare charcoal or heat a gas grill to medium-high. After forming the rounds, place the dough on the grill rack and cook until bubbles form and the dough has risen slightly, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. The surface of the bread should be dry to the touch.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Bismarcks: At the Gates of Paris",
"title": "Bismarcks: At the Gates of Paris",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4195\" title=\"bismarcks\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/bismarcks.jpg\" alt=\"bismarcks\" width=\"262\" height=\"350\">I've currently got Paris on the brain. I'm about to invade that city for a week of eating and drinking and wandering and thinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, naturally, the first thing to pop into my head for today's post was, \"Oh, I should do something \u003cem>German\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because that's how my mind works.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, it's not what you're thinking. My mind has been on the Franco-Prussian War, naturally enough, since I'm currently re-reading \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Seven-Ages-Paris-Alistair-Horne/dp/0679454810\">The Seven Ages of Paris\u003c/a> by Alistair Horne.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paris is a city that has been, at least historically, in perpetual turmoil. It started with the Norsemen pillaging and burning the town until they were bought off with a big chunk of land in the North (Normandy). Only to see those same Normans a couple of centuries later restyling themselves as Englishmen and setting the country afire during a little conflict known as The 100 Years War.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, there were several plagues, internal revolts, sieges, and revolutions-- 1789, 1830, and 1848 (twice in three months), World Wars I and II, and a near-revolution in 1968.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But never did the city of Paris suffer more than during what the French refer to as \u003cem>L'Année Terrible\u003c/em>, 1870-1871.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Year in Review\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sickly Emperor Napoleon III declared war on Prussia on July 19th, 1870, hoping to distract people from the problems at home in his dying Empire. It was a bad move, but one made with characteristically Gallic flair. The French were trounced, the Emperor was captured six weeks later at Sedan, and that was pretty much that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or so the Parisians thought. They celebrated the fall of the Empire with a lot of cheering and declared The Third Republic two days later. The war was lost, but at least it was over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or not. The Prussians, with the iron-willed, iron-fisted, all-around Iron Chancellor Otto von Bismarck forging policy, kept on coming. The French, Bismarck felt, needed to be taught a lesson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So they marched on Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surrounding the city, the Prussians sought to starve Paris into capitulation. For five months, the only contact Paris had with the outside world was via hot air balloons floating up and over the enemy filled with letters and dispatches from those trapped inside. The only messages in came from an occasional carrier pigeon. Rats, horses, house pets and nearly every animal in the zoo (one exception being monkeys because, apparently, the Parisians embraced Darwinism) were consumed by the hungry Parisians in their effort to fend off starvation*. By the time the French surrendered, Germany had united over the near-dead body of France and declared itself an empire. At the palace of Versailles, of all places. Nice touch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that wasn't the worst part.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As happened so often in Paris, the working class sparked a revolt, leading to a government take-over. In a nutshell, The Paris Commune was set up, socialist reforms were attempted and things went generally crazy. The Tuilleries Palace was burned to the ground, the Vendome Column toppled, even Notre Dame barely escaped destruction-- it's benches had been piled up and doused with kerosene but was saved at the last minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Commune ultimately failed-- stamped out by the what was left of the French government and army in the bloodiest moment of the city's history-- 20,000 Parisians were slaughtered in just one week alone. The city was shattered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or was it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What has always amazed me is the resilience of Paris. Each time it is beaten down, it seems to come back a little bit stronger. After a year of alienation, isolation, the pounding and ensuing humiliation by a stronger enemy, self-destruction, and thanks to a 5 billion franc war reparation bill, crippling debt, Paris rebounded into one of the most brilliant (or at least, fondly remembered) periods of its history-- \u003cem>La Belle Epoque\u003c/em>, which lasted nearly 43 years. Solidly, it returned to and confirmed its status as the cultural capital of Europe, if not the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's as though Paris can historically shake off its woes with its world-famous shrug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So why the history lesson today? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, I'm coming out of my own \u003cem>p'tit année terrible\u003c/em>-- one that strangely mimics the year Paris faced, but on a much smaller, human scale. So I'm off to see how the Parisians manage it; to do a little shrugging of my own, you might say. I will eat and wander and observe the natives in a place that is more than likely Bismarck-free both in terms of the pastry and the guy who brought Paris to its knees. Or the one who brought me to mine, for that matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And maybe I'm hoping for a little \u003cem>belle époque\u003c/em> of my own to begin. 43 years? Yeah, I think that will do. That will do nicely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will be back blogging June 19th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* On the bright side, the Parisians were never in any danger of running out of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bismarcks\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bismarck is the Canadian/American name for the German pastry Berliner, as in John F. Kennedy's famous declaration, \"Ich bin ein Berliner.\" In Berlin, however, they are referred to as \u003cem>Pfannkuchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it whatever you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apart from the time spent allowing the yeast dough to rise, these doughnuts are relatively simple to make. And delicious-- the unfilled pastry being light and airy and not especially sweet. Fill them with whatever you like, sweet or savory. Hell, toast one and use it to bookend a hamburger, while we're eating things named after German cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a good thing Kennedy wasn't in Hamburg when he decided to make that speech. Or worse, Vienna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 12 Bismarcks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 packages of yeast\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons of sugar\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n8 egg yolks\u003cbr>\na pinch of salt\u003cbr>\nRaspberry Jam for filling\u003cbr>\nPowdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a saucepan, bring milk to a boil. Turn off heat and stir in butter and sugar. Cool to lukewarm. Sprinkle yeast over the top of the milk mixture and leave it to bloom and reanimate for about 10 to 15 minutes, until it starts to foam up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add this yeasty liquid to a large bowl in which the flour and salt have been patiently waiting. Stir and fold to combine into a sticky mess of dough. Cover with a damp, clean cloth and set in a warm place to rise for two hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. With floured hands, turn dough onto a lightly-floured surface and roll to a 3/8-inch thickness. Cut into circles (I used a 3 1/2- inch cutter). Place them on a baking sheet or what-have-you and cover with the same damp cloth to rise for another 30 minutes or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Fry the Bismarcks in 350° F vegetable oil or lard for 4 minutes. I find flipping them every 30 seconds helpful for some reason. Drain on a paper towel-lined rack to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. If you are filling these pastries (and you should be or they're not Bismarcks), if you lack a pastry syringe, cut a small opening into the side of each bun and wiggle your knife or (what I used) scissor blade around the inside to create a small pocket into which the jam might find purchase.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Put jam into a pastry bag with a plain tip. Place the tip into the pastry's hole and pipe in the jam until it starts to spill out the side like some mortal flesh wound. The jam should be cold, like the blood of Bismarck himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve fresh, and not over anyone's white carpeting.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I've currently got Paris on the brain. I'm about to invade that city for a week of eating and drinking and wandering and thinking.\r\n\r\nSo, naturally, the first thing to pop into my head for today's post was, \"I should do something \u003cem>German\u003c/em>.\"\r\n\r\nBecause that's how my mind works.",
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"description": "I've currently got Paris on the brain. I'm about to invade that city for a week of eating and drinking and wandering and thinking.\r\n\r\nSo, naturally, the first thing to pop into my head for today's post was, "I should do something German."\r\n\r\nBecause that's how my mind works.",
"title": "Bismarcks: At the Gates of Paris | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-4195\" title=\"bismarcks\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/bismarcks.jpg\" alt=\"bismarcks\" width=\"262\" height=\"350\">I've currently got Paris on the brain. I'm about to invade that city for a week of eating and drinking and wandering and thinking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, naturally, the first thing to pop into my head for today's post was, \"Oh, I should do something \u003cem>German\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because that's how my mind works.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, it's not what you're thinking. My mind has been on the Franco-Prussian War, naturally enough, since I'm currently re-reading \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Seven-Ages-Paris-Alistair-Horne/dp/0679454810\">The Seven Ages of Paris\u003c/a> by Alistair Horne.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paris is a city that has been, at least historically, in perpetual turmoil. It started with the Norsemen pillaging and burning the town until they were bought off with a big chunk of land in the North (Normandy). Only to see those same Normans a couple of centuries later restyling themselves as Englishmen and setting the country afire during a little conflict known as The 100 Years War.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, there were several plagues, internal revolts, sieges, and revolutions-- 1789, 1830, and 1848 (twice in three months), World Wars I and II, and a near-revolution in 1968.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But never did the city of Paris suffer more than during what the French refer to as \u003cem>L'Année Terrible\u003c/em>, 1870-1871.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Year in Review\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sickly Emperor Napoleon III declared war on Prussia on July 19th, 1870, hoping to distract people from the problems at home in his dying Empire. It was a bad move, but one made with characteristically Gallic flair. The French were trounced, the Emperor was captured six weeks later at Sedan, and that was pretty much that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or so the Parisians thought. They celebrated the fall of the Empire with a lot of cheering and declared The Third Republic two days later. The war was lost, but at least it was over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or not. The Prussians, with the iron-willed, iron-fisted, all-around Iron Chancellor Otto von Bismarck forging policy, kept on coming. The French, Bismarck felt, needed to be taught a lesson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So they marched on Paris.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Surrounding the city, the Prussians sought to starve Paris into capitulation. For five months, the only contact Paris had with the outside world was via hot air balloons floating up and over the enemy filled with letters and dispatches from those trapped inside. The only messages in came from an occasional carrier pigeon. Rats, horses, house pets and nearly every animal in the zoo (one exception being monkeys because, apparently, the Parisians embraced Darwinism) were consumed by the hungry Parisians in their effort to fend off starvation*. By the time the French surrendered, Germany had united over the near-dead body of France and declared itself an empire. At the palace of Versailles, of all places. Nice touch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that wasn't the worst part.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As happened so often in Paris, the working class sparked a revolt, leading to a government take-over. In a nutshell, The Paris Commune was set up, socialist reforms were attempted and things went generally crazy. The Tuilleries Palace was burned to the ground, the Vendome Column toppled, even Notre Dame barely escaped destruction-- it's benches had been piled up and doused with kerosene but was saved at the last minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Commune ultimately failed-- stamped out by the what was left of the French government and army in the bloodiest moment of the city's history-- 20,000 Parisians were slaughtered in just one week alone. The city was shattered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or was it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What has always amazed me is the resilience of Paris. Each time it is beaten down, it seems to come back a little bit stronger. After a year of alienation, isolation, the pounding and ensuing humiliation by a stronger enemy, self-destruction, and thanks to a 5 billion franc war reparation bill, crippling debt, Paris rebounded into one of the most brilliant (or at least, fondly remembered) periods of its history-- \u003cem>La Belle Epoque\u003c/em>, which lasted nearly 43 years. Solidly, it returned to and confirmed its status as the cultural capital of Europe, if not the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's as though Paris can historically shake off its woes with its world-famous shrug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So why the history lesson today? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, I'm coming out of my own \u003cem>p'tit année terrible\u003c/em>-- one that strangely mimics the year Paris faced, but on a much smaller, human scale. So I'm off to see how the Parisians manage it; to do a little shrugging of my own, you might say. I will eat and wander and observe the natives in a place that is more than likely Bismarck-free both in terms of the pastry and the guy who brought Paris to its knees. Or the one who brought me to mine, for that matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And maybe I'm hoping for a little \u003cem>belle époque\u003c/em> of my own to begin. 43 years? Yeah, I think that will do. That will do nicely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will be back blogging June 19th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* On the bright side, the Parisians were never in any danger of running out of wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bismarcks\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bismarck is the Canadian/American name for the German pastry Berliner, as in John F. Kennedy's famous declaration, \"Ich bin ein Berliner.\" In Berlin, however, they are referred to as \u003cem>Pfannkuchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Call it whatever you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apart from the time spent allowing the yeast dough to rise, these doughnuts are relatively simple to make. And delicious-- the unfilled pastry being light and airy and not especially sweet. Fill them with whatever you like, sweet or savory. Hell, toast one and use it to bookend a hamburger, while we're eating things named after German cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a good thing Kennedy wasn't in Hamburg when he decided to make that speech. Or worse, Vienna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 12 Bismarcks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 cups all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 packages of yeast\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons of sugar\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n8 egg yolks\u003cbr>\na pinch of salt\u003cbr>\nRaspberry Jam for filling\u003cbr>\nPowdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a saucepan, bring milk to a boil. Turn off heat and stir in butter and sugar. Cool to lukewarm. Sprinkle yeast over the top of the milk mixture and leave it to bloom and reanimate for about 10 to 15 minutes, until it starts to foam up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Add this yeasty liquid to a large bowl in which the flour and salt have been patiently waiting. Stir and fold to combine into a sticky mess of dough. Cover with a damp, clean cloth and set in a warm place to rise for two hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. With floured hands, turn dough onto a lightly-floured surface and roll to a 3/8-inch thickness. Cut into circles (I used a 3 1/2- inch cutter). Place them on a baking sheet or what-have-you and cover with the same damp cloth to rise for another 30 minutes or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Fry the Bismarcks in 350° F vegetable oil or lard for 4 minutes. I find flipping them every 30 seconds helpful for some reason. Drain on a paper towel-lined rack to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. If you are filling these pastries (and you should be or they're not Bismarcks), if you lack a pastry syringe, cut a small opening into the side of each bun and wiggle your knife or (what I used) scissor blade around the inside to create a small pocket into which the jam might find purchase.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Put jam into a pastry bag with a plain tip. Place the tip into the pastry's hole and pipe in the jam until it starts to spill out the side like some mortal flesh wound. The jam should be cold, like the blood of Bismarck himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />",
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"id": "commonwealth-club",
"title": "Commonwealth Club of California Podcast",
"info": "The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.",
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"order": 9
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"meta": {
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"id": "fresh-air",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory",
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"hidden-brain": {
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"airtime": "SUN 7pm-8pm",
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"info": "Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. How I Built This weaves a narrative journey about innovators, entrepreneurs and idealists—and the movements they built.",
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"airtime": "SUN 7:30pm-8pm",
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"hyphenacion": {
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"tagline": "Where conversation and cultura meet",
"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"order": 15
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"jerrybrown": {
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"title": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown",
"tagline": "Lessons from a lifetime in politics",
"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"order": 18
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},
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"title": "Latino USA",
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"info": "Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.",
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},
"marketplace": {
"id": "marketplace",
"title": "Marketplace",
"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.marketplace.org/",
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"source": "American Public Media"
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},
"masters-of-scale": {
"id": "masters-of-scale",
"title": "Masters of Scale",
"info": "Masters of Scale is an original podcast in which LinkedIn co-founder and Greylock Partner Reid Hoffman sets out to describe and prove theories that explain how great entrepreneurs take their companies from zero to a gazillion in ingenious fashion.",
"airtime": "Every other Wednesday June 12 through October 16 at 8pm (repeats Thursdays at 2am)",
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"meta": {
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"rss": "https://rss.art19.com/masters-of-scale"
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},
"mindshift": {
"id": "mindshift",
"title": "MindShift",
"tagline": "A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids",
"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
"imageAlt": "KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn",
"officialWebsiteLink": "/mindshift/",
"meta": {
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 12
},
"link": "/podcasts/mindshift",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5",
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},
"morning-edition": {
"id": "morning-edition",
"title": "Morning Edition",
"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"onourwatch": {
"id": "onourwatch",
"title": "On Our Watch",
"tagline": "Deeply-reported investigative journalism",
"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
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"order": 11
},
"link": "/podcasts/onourwatch",
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"google": "https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw",
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},
"on-the-media": {
"id": "on-the-media",
"title": "On The Media",
"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm",
"meta": {
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"source": "wnyc"
},
"link": "/radio/program/on-the-media",
"subscribe": {
"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/",
"rss": "http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"
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},
"pbs-newshour": {
"id": "pbs-newshour",
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"info": "Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.",
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"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"link": "/radio/program/pbs-newshour",
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2",
"tuneIn": "https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/",
"rss": "https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"
}
},
"perspectives": {
"id": "perspectives",
"title": "Perspectives",
"tagline": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991",
"info": "KQED's series of daily listener commentaries since 1991.",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/Perspectives_Tile_Final.jpg",
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"officialWebsiteLink": "/perspectives/",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 14
},
"link": "/perspectives",
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"npr": "https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives",
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"planet-money": {
"id": "planet-money",
"title": "Planet Money",
"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
"airtime": "SUN 3pm-4pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/planetmoney.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.npr.org/sections/money/",
"meta": {
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/planet-money",
"subscribe": {
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"apple": "https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/planet-money/id290783428?mt=2",
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"rss": "https://feeds.npr.org/510289/podcast.xml"
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},
"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Political-Breakdown-2024-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 5
},
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