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"disqusTitle": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin",
"title": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>The first thing we were told when we entered Esan Classic, the new Thai restaurant on the edge of the Tenderloin for a recent media preview was “this is the most expensive Thai restaurant project in San Francisco; it was two and a half years in the making.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With an introduction like that, it’s hard not to have impossibly high expectations. Several courses in, one diner in our group declared that the Tom Yum Pla Kao, a hot and sour soup with black cod, was the best soup he had ever eaten in his life. Judging by that comment, our expectations were mostly met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120674\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120674\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Esan Classic is the fourth restaurant opened by owner Tom Silargorn, who owns the three popular \u003ca href=\"http://lersros.com/\">Lers Ros Thai\u003c/a> restaurants, with the original one being right across the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120664\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Esan Classic\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The Esan province of Thailand has the most rare food, and there are not a lot of people doing it, and even when people are, the authenticity is not up to par” explained Rene Colorado, the restaurant group’s general manager. “You’ll taste certain flowers and herbs here that are very expensive to import, but they’re doing it to have the most authentic flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Silargorn comes from the Esan province, (also spelled Isan or Isaan) which is in the northeast of Thailand. Given that it borders both Laos and Cambodia, there is significant overlap in both culture and food; for instance, while larb (a salad made from ground meat) is considered the national dish of Laos, it is also equally popular in Esan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120671\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While Esan is also known as the poorest region of Thailand, as it does not see the same amount of tourism as the south, that is not apparent at the restaurant, which has a sleek, sunken dining room, high ceilings, and oversized images of women reminiscent of eighties artist \u003ca href=\"http://www.patricknagel.com/\">Patrick Nagel\u003c/a> on the walls. It has bit of a nightclub feel (though with sports on two tvs in the bar) and intends to stay open until 2 am on weekends, though as of now, there is wine and beer, but no liquor license.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120659\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120657\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This media dinner was the first this reporter had ever been to where a host introduced each course with a microphone from a stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120649\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Goody Kay has lived here for years, he is somewhat of an influencer in Thailand, he told us privately, and was wearing sparkling silver shoes with spikes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120680\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests were treated to eleven courses, handpicked by Silargorn and Chef Chanon Hutasingh as their favorite dishes, and most representative of Esan cuisine. (Hutasingh is the chef that will oversee the kitchen at Esan Classic). It probably goes without saying that there was no pad thai or peanut sauce in sight. It must have been a difficult choice, given the menu is oversized and runs 11 pages long and has over 120 dishes on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120662\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg\" alt=\"Esan Classic media preview menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Esan Classic media preview menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the more adventurous eater, frogs legs and pork intestines and chicken hearts and gizzards are all on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120651\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120651\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg\" alt=\"Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street.\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we still experienced numerous flavors that were new to us; with the heat coming from both fresh and fried chilies, building up slowly throughout the meal. For instance, the above-mentioned tom yum soup had fresh chilies while the course that followed was a beef and chili powder soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/meNlzf1rQjM\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There were some misses. An appetizer of sun-dried calamari had guests wondering whether the squid – which looked almost like French fries – was best honored by this method. While it was certainly a new way to eat it, diners seemed more puzzled than wowed. A stewed beef plate made with tendon had a divine chili paste, but despite the long cooking time at very low heat, in some cases, there was much more fat than meat; large chunks were left on the plate. Despite Kay calling their larb “the best in the industry,” strings of fried pork fat were a bit too chewy to fully enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120668\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120668\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120669\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120669\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But other dishes were sublime. A dish called bitter melon salad, which had shrimp, scant pieces of bitter melon, and ground pork as the dominant ingredient (and also seemed rather larb-like) was a symphony of flavors, perfectly accentuated by chili and lime. “In Thailand, we believe that the more bitter something is, the better it is for you,” Kay instructed. It was that version of larb that we could have seen being called the best in the industry. The fish and beef soups were both so delicious and unusual, it was impossible to discern which we liked better. Mouth on fire, be damned, I kept going back for more. A sweet and spicy black bass came to the table fried into a shallow U, as if it were posing, head and tail perfectly aloft. A stir-fried green curry with beef was delicate and fragrant, a much more refined version than what we’re used to (which isn’t bad to begin with).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120673\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120673\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120675\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120675\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120655\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120655\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120676\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120677\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120677\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We thought we’d leave most of the dessert untouched, a sweet black sticky rice with coconut milk and Longan, a cousin of the lychee, but that was not to happen; the unctuous rice with just the right amount of sweetness had us going back for more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120678\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120678\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to the introduction Kay gave us, Silagorn could have retired back to Thailand after opening Lers Ros, but instead he opened two more. “His passion is cooking,” Kay told us. “All he wants to do is cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucky San Francisco. With cooking like that, all we wanted to do was eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120665\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg\" alt=\"The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.esanclassic.com/\">\u003cstrong>Esan Classic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (website not active yet)\u003cbr>\n739 Larkin St. [\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Esan+Classic/@37.7849199,-122.4201876,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580912e647a7b:0x55950d43d285b814!8m2!3d37.7849157!4d-122.4179989\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open Sun-Thu, 11am-12am and Fri-Sat, 11am-2am.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/esanclassicsf/\">esanclassicsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1513196112317547/esan-classic/\">@Esan-Classic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$ entrees from $10.95 to $35.95 (with most averaging around $15 to $20)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120656\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120656\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg\" alt=\"The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
"disqusIdentifier": "120543 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=120543",
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"excerpt": "Chefs Tom Silargorn and Chanon Hutasingh, of the popular Lers Ros restaurants, bring food from Silargorn's native Isan region of Thailand to the Tenderloin, in a sleek spot that's open late. ",
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"description": "Chefs Tom Silargorn and Chanon Hutasingh, of the popular Lers Ros restaurants, bring food from Silargorn's native Isan region of Thailand to the Tenderloin, in a sleek spot that's open late. ",
"title": "Preview: Esan Classic brings lesser-known Thai flavors to the Tenderloin | KQED",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The first thing we were told when we entered Esan Classic, the new Thai restaurant on the edge of the Tenderloin for a recent media preview was “this is the most expensive Thai restaurant project in San Francisco; it was two and a half years in the making.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With an introduction like that, it’s hard not to have impossibly high expectations. Several courses in, one diner in our group declared that the Tom Yum Pla Kao, a hot and sour soup with black cod, was the best soup he had ever eaten in his life. Judging by that comment, our expectations were mostly met.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120674\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120674\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg\" alt=\"Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6633-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot & Sour Soup with Black Cod - Tom Yum Pla Kao \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Esan Classic is the fourth restaurant opened by owner Tom Silargorn, who owns the three popular \u003ca href=\"http://lersros.com/\">Lers Ros Thai\u003c/a> restaurants, with the original one being right across the street.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120664\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120664\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Esan Classic\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6549-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“The Esan province of Thailand has the most rare food, and there are not a lot of people doing it, and even when people are, the authenticity is not up to par” explained Rene Colorado, the restaurant group’s general manager. “You’ll taste certain flowers and herbs here that are very expensive to import, but they’re doing it to have the most authentic flavors.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Silargorn comes from the Esan province, (also spelled Isan or Isaan) which is in the northeast of Thailand. Given that it borders both Laos and Cambodia, there is significant overlap in both culture and food; for instance, while larb (a salad made from ground meat) is considered the national dish of Laos, it is also equally popular in Esan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120671\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6600-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ground Pork Salad - Larb Pork \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While Esan is also known as the poorest region of Thailand, as it does not see the same amount of tourism as the south, that is not apparent at the restaurant, which has a sleek, sunken dining room, high ceilings, and oversized images of women reminiscent of eighties artist \u003ca href=\"http://www.patricknagel.com/\">Patrick Nagel\u003c/a> on the walls. It has bit of a nightclub feel (though with sports on two tvs in the bar) and intends to stay open until 2 am on weekends, though as of now, there is wine and beer, but no liquor license.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120659\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120659\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6522-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to the kitchen at Esan Classic. Owner and chef Tom Silargorn is visible in the left window. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120657\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg\" alt=\"The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6514-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The bar at Esan currently serves wine and beer. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This media dinner was the first this reporter had ever been to where a host introduced each course with a microphone from a stage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120649\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120649\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6568-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay announces each course being served from a stage at Esan Classic's preview dinner. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although Goody Kay has lived here for years, he is somewhat of an influencer in Thailand, he told us privately, and was wearing sparkling silver shoes with spikes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120680\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120680\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg\" alt=\"Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6681-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Goody Kay (L) introduces chef Chanon Hutasingh (R) who is overseeing the kitchen at Esan Classic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Guests were treated to eleven courses, handpicked by Silargorn and Chef Chanon Hutasingh as their favorite dishes, and most representative of Esan cuisine. (Hutasingh is the chef that will oversee the kitchen at Esan Classic). It probably goes without saying that there was no pad thai or peanut sauce in sight. It must have been a difficult choice, given the menu is oversized and runs 11 pages long and has over 120 dishes on offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120662\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120662\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg\" alt=\"Esan Classic media preview menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6534-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Esan Classic media preview menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For the more adventurous eater, frogs legs and pork intestines and chicken hearts and gizzards are all on the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120651\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120651\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg\" alt=\"Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street.\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1109-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serving soup tableside at Esan Classic. Lers Ros can be seen out the window across the street. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But we still experienced numerous flavors that were new to us; with the heat coming from both fresh and fried chilies, building up slowly throughout the meal. For instance, the above-mentioned tom yum soup had fresh chilies while the course that followed was a beef and chili powder soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/meNlzf1rQjM'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/meNlzf1rQjM'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>There were some misses. An appetizer of sun-dried calamari had guests wondering whether the squid – which looked almost like French fries – was best honored by this method. While it was certainly a new way to eat it, diners seemed more puzzled than wowed. A stewed beef plate made with tendon had a divine chili paste, but despite the long cooking time at very low heat, in some cases, there was much more fat than meat; large chunks were left on the plate. Despite Kay calling their larb “the best in the industry,” strings of fried pork fat were a bit too chewy to fully enjoy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120668\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120668\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6581-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sun-Dried Calamari - Pla Muk Haeng \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120669\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120669\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6587-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stewed Beef Plate - Nuer Peuay \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But other dishes were sublime. A dish called bitter melon salad, which had shrimp, scant pieces of bitter melon, and ground pork as the dominant ingredient (and also seemed rather larb-like) was a symphony of flavors, perfectly accentuated by chili and lime. “In Thailand, we believe that the more bitter something is, the better it is for you,” Kay instructed. It was that version of larb that we could have seen being called the best in the industry. The fish and beef soups were both so delicious and unusual, it was impossible to discern which we liked better. Mouth on fire, be damned, I kept going back for more. A sweet and spicy black bass came to the table fried into a shallow U, as if it were posing, head and tail perfectly aloft. A stir-fried green curry with beef was delicate and fragrant, a much more refined version than what we’re used to (which isn’t bad to begin with).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120673\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120673\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bitter Melon Salad - Yum Ma-Ra Koong Sod \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120675\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120675\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sturgeon Stir-Fried with Black Pepper - Pla Prik Thai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120655\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120655\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg\" alt=\"Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1118-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black Bass Sweet and Spicy - Pla Sam Ros \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120676\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120676\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6663-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crispy Catfish with Chili Paste - Prik Khing Pla Dook Fu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120677\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120677\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg\" alt=\"Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6671-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir-Fried Green Curry with Beef - Keawn Wan Pad Heang \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We thought we’d leave most of the dessert untouched, a sweet black sticky rice with coconut milk and Longan, a cousin of the lychee, but that was not to happen; the unctuous rice with just the right amount of sweetness had us going back for more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120678\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120678\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6675-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dessert: Thai-Esan Sweet Black Sticky Rice with Longan \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to the introduction Kay gave us, Silagorn could have retired back to Thailand after opening Lers Ros, but instead he opened two more. “His passion is cooking,” Kay told us. “All he wants to do is cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucky San Francisco. With cooking like that, all we wanted to do was eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120665\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120665\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg\" alt=\"The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6551-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The view from outside looking into the Esan Classic main dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.esanclassic.com/\">\u003cstrong>Esan Classic\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (website not active yet)\u003cbr>\n739 Larkin St. [\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Esan+Classic/@37.7849199,-122.4201876,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580912e647a7b:0x55950d43d285b814!8m2!3d37.7849157!4d-122.4179989\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open Sun-Thu, 11am-12am and Fri-Sat, 11am-2am.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/esanclassicsf/\">esanclassicsf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/1513196112317547/esan-classic/\">@Esan-Classic\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$ entrees from $10.95 to $35.95 (with most averaging around $15 to $20)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120656\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120656\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg\" alt=\"The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_1135-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The neon sign at night outside Esan Classic \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "So Your Kitchen Sponge Is A Bacteria Hotbed. Here's What To Do",
"title": "So Your Kitchen Sponge Is A Bacteria Hotbed. Here's What To Do",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/09/20170911_me_so_your_kitchen_sponge_is_a_bacteria_hotbed_heres_what_to_do.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in August, a study came out about bacteria in kitchen sponges that sent home chefs into a frenzy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when we looked carefully at the study, we realized much of the news coverage about it was incorrect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-017-06055-9\">published\u003c/a> in\u003cem> Scientific Reports\u003c/em>, undertook a thorough investigation into how many critters are living in used kitchen sponges. And the results were jawdropping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We found 362 different species of bacteria, and locally, the density of bacteria reached up to 45 billion per square centimeter,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.hs-furtwangen.de/willkommen/die-hochschule/zentrale-services/institut-fuer-angewandte-forschung/mitglieder/prof-dr-markus-egert.html\">Markus Egert\u003c/a>, a microbiologist at Furtwangen University in Germany, who led the study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty-five billion microbes per square centimeter? Are you kidding? If you scale that up, that's like stuffing all the people who live in Manhattan into the \u003ca href=\"https://therinkatrockcenter.com/\">Rockefeller ice rink\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's a very huge number of bacteria, indeed,\" Egert tells NPR. \"There's hardly any habitat on Earth where you'll find similar densities of bacteria, except for the human intestinal tract.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, there can be spots on your kitchen sponge with just as high concentrations of bacteria as in a toilet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That result in itself is pretty remarkable. And it makes you think twice about using the sponge to wipe up your dining room table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that finding isn't what got people riled up. Instead, it was a line in the study's abstract: Two species of bacteria \"showed significantly greater proportions in regularly sanitized sponges [compared to uncleaned sponges], thereby questioning such sanitation methods in a long term perspective,\" the study says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the media took this idea and ran with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Your Kitchen Sponge Is Gross, and Cleaning It Isn't Helping,\" \u003cem>New York \u003c/em>magazine's headline \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/scienceofus/2017/08/your-kitchen-sponge-is-gross-and-cleaning-it-isnt-helping.html\">read\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cleaning a Dirty Sponge Only Helps Its Worst Bacteria, Study Says,\" \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/04/science/sponges-bacteria-microwaving-cleaning.html?mcubz=0&_r=0\">put it\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people may think that microwaving a sponge kills its tiny residents, but they are only partly right,\" the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> story continued. \"It may nuke the weak ones, but the strongest, smelliest and potentially pathogenic bacteria will survive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After reading these stories, including one \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/NPR/posts/10155959410371756\">posted\u003c/a> on NPR's Facebook page, I started becoming a bit skeptical. Something smelled fishy here. This conclusion just didn't fit with my firsthand experience as a scientist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2007, I was a biochemistry postdoc slaving away in the lab. I spent many of those days growing huge flasks of bacteria closely related to food-borne pathogens. I fed them, harvested them, fished out their genes, studied their guts — and killed them — day after day after day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who has worked with food-borne pathogens — or their close relatives — knows that these little critters aren't \"the strongest.\" They are weaklings. You heat them up just a little bit and they literally pop!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's why we cook food. We know that heating will kill the pathogens,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://drexel.edu/cnhp/faculty/profiles/QuinlanJennifer/\">Jennifer Quinlan\u003c/a>, a food microbiologist at Drexel University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what in the heck is going on with this new sponge study? Are the findings upturning decades of public health recommendations?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not at all, Quinlan says. The media reports were simply not accurate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"After you contacted me for an interview, I read the study in great detail,\" she says. \"I feel now that the comments they make about not recommending washing in the abstract are really, really misleading.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, she says, you can't draw any conclusions about the effect of washing sponges from this study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For starters, there was no clear explanation of what \"regular cleaning\" meant, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"\u003c/em>What really irked me is that you had to go all the way into the supplemental material to find how people reported washing the sponges,\" Quinlan says. \"Even then the methods were very vague.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study stated that the sponges were either microwaved or put in hot, soapy water. The latter can actually make the sponge stinkier, Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nobody would recommend hot, soapy water as a way to disinfect a sponge,\" Quinlan says. \"That could actually encourage the bacteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study also looked at only five sponges that people said they \"cleaned\" regularly — and study participants did not say whether this cleaning took place in the microwave or in soapy water. \"We do not want to make public health recommendations based on five sponges from Germany,\" Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, families should stick with the same recommendations Quinlan has given for years:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Keep the sponge away from raw meat\u003c/strong>. \"If you're dealing with raw juices from meat or poultry, you should be using paper that can be disposed of,\" Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. Don't keep sponges around for too long\u003c/strong>. \"I replace mine every one to two weeks,\" she says. \"That's reasonable to me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. Clean the sponge every few days\u003c/strong>. The USDA recommends putting it in the dishwasher with a heated dry cycle, or wetting the sponge and popping it in the microwave for a minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Microwaving the sponge will knock down the bacteria living in it by about a million-fold, scientists at the U.S. Department of Agriculture \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0956713508001667\">reported\u003c/a> back in 2009. Of course, this method will leave many still alive since there are billions in the sponge. But the heat targets the dangerous ones, Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It doesn't sterilize the sponge,\" she says. \"But remember, the bacteria we want to kill are the ones that will make you sick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the new study, cleaning apparently boosted the levels of two species. Egert has no idea exactly what these species are, but one is \u003cem>related\u003c/em> to bacteria that give your dirty laundry that stinky, musty smell. The other is \u003cem>related\u003c/em> to bacteria that, on rare occasions, cause infections in people with suppressed immune systems. Neither of these relatives are known to cause food poisoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just five species of bacteria are responsible for more than 90 percent of hospitalizations due to food-borne illnesses. And these bacteria are actually quite rare in sponges, Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egert and his team didn't find any of these food-borne-illness-causing bugs in their 14 sponges. And in a study published earlier this year, Quinlan and her colleagues detected pathogens in only about 1 to 2 percent of sponges collected from kitchens in Philadelphia. Even then, the amount of the pathogens present was very small, her team \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28271927\">reported\u003c/a> in the \u003cem>Journal of Food Protection\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So when you microwave the sponge,\" she says, \"it will likely get rid of them all\" — if they are even there in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then you can rest easy that washing the dishes will not make you sick.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "For the first time, scientists have carefully analyzed all the critters in a kitchen sponge. There turns out to be a huge number. Despite recent news reports, there \u003cem>is\u003c/em> something you can do about it.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in August, a study came out about bacteria in kitchen sponges that sent home chefs into a frenzy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when we looked carefully at the study, we realized much of the news coverage about it was incorrect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study, \u003ca href=\"https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-017-06055-9\">published\u003c/a> in\u003cem> Scientific Reports\u003c/em>, undertook a thorough investigation into how many critters are living in used kitchen sponges. And the results were jawdropping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We found 362 different species of bacteria, and locally, the density of bacteria reached up to 45 billion per square centimeter,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.hs-furtwangen.de/willkommen/die-hochschule/zentrale-services/institut-fuer-angewandte-forschung/mitglieder/prof-dr-markus-egert.html\">Markus Egert\u003c/a>, a microbiologist at Furtwangen University in Germany, who led the study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Forty-five billion microbes per square centimeter? Are you kidding? If you scale that up, that's like stuffing all the people who live in Manhattan into the \u003ca href=\"https://therinkatrockcenter.com/\">Rockefeller ice rink\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's a very huge number of bacteria, indeed,\" Egert tells NPR. \"There's hardly any habitat on Earth where you'll find similar densities of bacteria, except for the human intestinal tract.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, there can be spots on your kitchen sponge with just as high concentrations of bacteria as in a toilet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That result in itself is pretty remarkable. And it makes you think twice about using the sponge to wipe up your dining room table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that finding isn't what got people riled up. Instead, it was a line in the study's abstract: Two species of bacteria \"showed significantly greater proportions in regularly sanitized sponges [compared to uncleaned sponges], thereby questioning such sanitation methods in a long term perspective,\" the study says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the media took this idea and ran with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Your Kitchen Sponge Is Gross, and Cleaning It Isn't Helping,\" \u003cem>New York \u003c/em>magazine's headline \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/scienceofus/2017/08/your-kitchen-sponge-is-gross-and-cleaning-it-isnt-helping.html\">read\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cleaning a Dirty Sponge Only Helps Its Worst Bacteria, Study Says,\" \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/04/science/sponges-bacteria-microwaving-cleaning.html?mcubz=0&_r=0\">put it\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people may think that microwaving a sponge kills its tiny residents, but they are only partly right,\" the \u003cem>Times\u003c/em> story continued. \"It may nuke the weak ones, but the strongest, smelliest and potentially pathogenic bacteria will survive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After reading these stories, including one \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/NPR/posts/10155959410371756\">posted\u003c/a> on NPR's Facebook page, I started becoming a bit skeptical. Something smelled fishy here. This conclusion just didn't fit with my firsthand experience as a scientist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 2007, I was a biochemistry postdoc slaving away in the lab. I spent many of those days growing huge flasks of bacteria closely related to food-borne pathogens. I fed them, harvested them, fished out their genes, studied their guts — and killed them — day after day after day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anyone who has worked with food-borne pathogens — or their close relatives — knows that these little critters aren't \"the strongest.\" They are weaklings. You heat them up just a little bit and they literally pop!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's why we cook food. We know that heating will kill the pathogens,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://drexel.edu/cnhp/faculty/profiles/QuinlanJennifer/\">Jennifer Quinlan\u003c/a>, a food microbiologist at Drexel University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what in the heck is going on with this new sponge study? Are the findings upturning decades of public health recommendations?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not at all, Quinlan says. The media reports were simply not accurate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"After you contacted me for an interview, I read the study in great detail,\" she says. \"I feel now that the comments they make about not recommending washing in the abstract are really, really misleading.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, she says, you can't draw any conclusions about the effect of washing sponges from this study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For starters, there was no clear explanation of what \"regular cleaning\" meant, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"\u003c/em>What really irked me is that you had to go all the way into the supplemental material to find how people reported washing the sponges,\" Quinlan says. \"Even then the methods were very vague.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study stated that the sponges were either microwaved or put in hot, soapy water. The latter can actually make the sponge stinkier, Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Nobody would recommend hot, soapy water as a way to disinfect a sponge,\" Quinlan says. \"That could actually encourage the bacteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study also looked at only five sponges that people said they \"cleaned\" regularly — and study participants did not say whether this cleaning took place in the microwave or in soapy water. \"We do not want to make public health recommendations based on five sponges from Germany,\" Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, families should stick with the same recommendations Quinlan has given for years:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1. Keep the sponge away from raw meat\u003c/strong>. \"If you're dealing with raw juices from meat or poultry, you should be using paper that can be disposed of,\" Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>2. Don't keep sponges around for too long\u003c/strong>. \"I replace mine every one to two weeks,\" she says. \"That's reasonable to me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>3. Clean the sponge every few days\u003c/strong>. The USDA recommends putting it in the dishwasher with a heated dry cycle, or wetting the sponge and popping it in the microwave for a minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Microwaving the sponge will knock down the bacteria living in it by about a million-fold, scientists at the U.S. Department of Agriculture \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0956713508001667\">reported\u003c/a> back in 2009. Of course, this method will leave many still alive since there are billions in the sponge. But the heat targets the dangerous ones, Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It doesn't sterilize the sponge,\" she says. \"But remember, the bacteria we want to kill are the ones that will make you sick.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the new study, cleaning apparently boosted the levels of two species. Egert has no idea exactly what these species are, but one is \u003cem>related\u003c/em> to bacteria that give your dirty laundry that stinky, musty smell. The other is \u003cem>related\u003c/em> to bacteria that, on rare occasions, cause infections in people with suppressed immune systems. Neither of these relatives are known to cause food poisoning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just five species of bacteria are responsible for more than 90 percent of hospitalizations due to food-borne illnesses. And these bacteria are actually quite rare in sponges, Quinlan says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Egert and his team didn't find any of these food-borne-illness-causing bugs in their 14 sponges. And in a study published earlier this year, Quinlan and her colleagues detected pathogens in only about 1 to 2 percent of sponges collected from kitchens in Philadelphia. Even then, the amount of the pathogens present was very small, her team \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28271927\">reported\u003c/a> in the \u003cem>Journal of Food Protection\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So when you microwave the sponge,\" she says, \"it will likely get rid of them all\" — if they are even there in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food",
"title": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Perhaps it was only a matter of time before a restaurant came to fruition as a result of two obsessed diners following each other on Instagram. Well, of course that’s only part of the story, but it’s how Jason Wang connected with Chavayos (Bob) Rattakul, a Thai partner, to bring \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a> to downtown Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opening tomorrow, the fast-casual concept is built around one particular dish, Khao Mun Gai, in which a piece of poached chicken is offered with rice cooked in chicken broth and other aromatics, with a punchy sauce of soy, garlic, ginger and chilies. The dish also comes with a bowl of chicken soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120453\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg\" alt=\"KMG - Khao Mun Gai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KMG - Khao Mun Gai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120448\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120448\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg\" alt=\"Side of Chicken Broth Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Side of Chicken Broth Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A popular street food in Thailand, the dish has slowly been gaining popularity in the U.S., and thanks to the guys behind the Umai Hospitality Group, it will be introduced to many more people in the coming years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re planning a rapid expansion, maybe opening five more of these in the next three years,” John Keh told Bay Area Bites. “We’re already looking at a location in the South Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg\" alt=\"John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with Wang, Keh is part of the Umai Hospitality Group; they along with two others, are all Cal graduates who founded and then sold the food delivery app \u003ca href=\"https://www.trycaviar.com/san-francisco\">Caviar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We think this food is really accessible to the American palate as it’s interesting, different and healthy. And since the chicken is poached, it’s not too fatty,” said Keh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street. Keh said the landlord was excited to get a Thai offering in the mix, since the street offers a wide range of international options already.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120450\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While one could think that it doesn’t take a lot to get such a simple dish right, she’d be wrong. Keh spent several months in Thailand with Rattakul, going from place to place, seeking out who did the most flavorful sauces; who made the most delicious rice. Rattakul then sought out their favorite recipes from these chefs, and in some cases, tasted their creations and guessed how to make them himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And because they knew they couldn’t build an entire restaurant – small as it may be – on one dish alone, they came up with three others to round out the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to the Khao Mun Gai (known as KMG on their menu) there is Fried KMG, Braised Pork, which comes with a soy-marinated egg and Asian greens, and Fried Tofu, which also comes with Asian greens. All dishes come with rice, (the two non-chicken dishes come with plain Jasmine rice rather than the chicken rice) and soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120456\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120456\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All ingredients for the sauces are imported from Thailand, and all the meat comes from Marin Sun Farms. Vegetables are local as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120447\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120447\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sauces that accompany the dishes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sauces that accompany the dishes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A small portion of each dish is $8.99, a regular is $10.99, making this a great bargain, especially for high-quality meat (we found the small large enough to satisfy one person, and the servings of rice are perhaps even a bit over generous).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found all the proteins with the exception of the poached chicken to be well-seasoned even without the sauces, but to not use the sauces would be a crime. The fried items were not the least bit greasy and the pork was especially flavorful even pre-sauced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We couldn’t help but wonder though, how many people except for the die-hard health nuts would order the KMG given the more attractive options of fried chicken or pork. But fear not, healthy people. Just a drizzle of this brown sauce elevates it to such a degree, that one need not fear. The only thing we didn’t like post-sauce was the skin; Keh confirmed that in Asia they eat every part of the chicken, but after poaching, the skin becomes limp and rubbery, everything you do not want chicken skin to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120449\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120449\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg\" alt=\"All menu items at Chick'n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All menu items at Chick'n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fried chicken came with sweet chili sauce; the tofu nuggets came with a different kind of soy based-sauce and the pork had a green sauce that was spicy and acidic and fragrant in the best possible way; it looked like a tomatillo salsa but of course it wasn’t; while we were told it had Thai green chilies, cilantro and vinegar in it, we tried without avail to guess what gave it its funk. It wasn’t fish sauce, and while Keh told us in a moment of weakness, he asked us to keep it a secret (and I will say that this writer, who knows a thing or two about food, had never heard of it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found the soup less interesting, but it too could be easily doctored up with the addition of more ginger and chilies, which they have on hand. We added some of the poached chicken to the soup, and with a bit of additional ginger and chilies, it was transformed into something an Asian grandmother might make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving Chick’n Rice without dessert would be a shame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keh called their dessert options an accident, in that they knew they wanted to offer a dessert, but had no idea what to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"none\" size=\"medium\" ids=\"120459,120458,120457\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hot out in Thailand, as it often is, and they wandered into a market to see what they could get that would be cool and refreshing. They found the traditional sticky rice and mango, but with a scoop of coconut ice cream. That same dessert is on offer, with a base of sticky rice cooked in coconut milk with a scoop of coconut, lychee or Thai iced tea ice cream on top. The ice cream comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/polly-ann-ice-cream-san-francisco\">Polly Ann Ice Cream\u003c/a> in the Outer Sunset district of San Francisco, and next to that green sauce for the pork was our favorite dish of the night. One wouldn’t go wrong by ordering any of the three flavors, but we definitely preferred the coconut or Thai iced tea over the lychee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice is open daily until 10pm\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice is open daily 11am until 10pm \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">\u003cstrong>Chick’n Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2136 Center St., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/S2PfLs\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open daily from 11am-10pm (Opens Friday 9/8/17)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/eatchicknrice/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatchicknrice/\">@eatchicknrice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $ ($8.99-$10.99 per entree)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Khao Mun Gai, or poached chicken and rice, is a popular street food in Thailand. The guys who brought you the Caviar food delivery app now want to popularize the dish here, starting in Berkeley with Chick’n Rice, their new fast-casual spot.",
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"description": "Khao Mun Gai, or poached chicken and rice, is a popular street food in Thailand. The guys who brought you the Caviar food delivery app now want to popularize the dish here, starting in Berkeley with Chick’n Rice, their new fast-casual spot.",
"title": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food | KQED",
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"headline": "Preview: Chick’n Rice Khao Mun Gai in Berkeley Offers Tasty Thai-Style Street Food",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Perhaps it was only a matter of time before a restaurant came to fruition as a result of two obsessed diners following each other on Instagram. Well, of course that’s only part of the story, but it’s how Jason Wang connected with Chavayos (Bob) Rattakul, a Thai partner, to bring \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a> to downtown Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opening tomorrow, the fast-casual concept is built around one particular dish, Khao Mun Gai, in which a piece of poached chicken is offered with rice cooked in chicken broth and other aromatics, with a punchy sauce of soy, garlic, ginger and chilies. The dish also comes with a bowl of chicken soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120453\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120453\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg\" alt=\"KMG - Khao Mun Gai\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6210-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">KMG - Khao Mun Gai \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120448\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120448\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg\" alt=\"Side of Chicken Broth Soup\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6168-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Side of Chicken Broth Soup \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A popular street food in Thailand, the dish has slowly been gaining popularity in the U.S., and thanks to the guys behind the Umai Hospitality Group, it will be introduced to many more people in the coming years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re planning a rapid expansion, maybe opening five more of these in the next three years,” John Keh told Bay Area Bites. “We’re already looking at a location in the South Bay.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120441\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120441\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg\" alt=\"John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6134-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Keh at the media preview of Chick’n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Along with Wang, Keh is part of the Umai Hospitality Group; they along with two others, are all Cal graduates who founded and then sold the food delivery app \u003ca href=\"https://www.trycaviar.com/san-francisco\">Caviar\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We think this food is really accessible to the American palate as it’s interesting, different and healthy. And since the chicken is poached, it’s not too fatty,” said Keh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street. Keh said the landlord was excited to get a Thai offering in the mix, since the street offers a wide range of international options already.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120450\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120450\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6192-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Berkeley location is on a restaurant row of sorts right near the Cal campus, at 2136 Center Street \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120446\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120446\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice interior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6149-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice interior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While one could think that it doesn’t take a lot to get such a simple dish right, she’d be wrong. Keh spent several months in Thailand with Rattakul, going from place to place, seeking out who did the most flavorful sauces; who made the most delicious rice. Rattakul then sought out their favorite recipes from these chefs, and in some cases, tasted their creations and guessed how to make them himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And because they knew they couldn’t build an entire restaurant – small as it may be – on one dish alone, they came up with three others to round out the menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120442\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120442\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice menu\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6137-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice menu \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In addition to the Khao Mun Gai (known as KMG on their menu) there is Fried KMG, Braised Pork, which comes with a soy-marinated egg and Asian greens, and Fried Tofu, which also comes with Asian greens. All dishes come with rice, (the two non-chicken dishes come with plain Jasmine rice rather than the chicken rice) and soup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120520\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120520\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6218-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried KMG - Khao Mun Gai Tod - with Chicken Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120456\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120456\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6230-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Pork - Khao Kha Moo - with Egg & Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120454\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120454\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg\" alt=\"Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6216-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tofu - Khao Mun Tao Hoo - Greens with Jasmine Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All ingredients for the sauces are imported from Thailand, and all the meat comes from Marin Sun Farms. Vegetables are local as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120447\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120447\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg\" alt=\"Sauces that accompany the dishes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6152-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sauces that accompany the dishes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A small portion of each dish is $8.99, a regular is $10.99, making this a great bargain, especially for high-quality meat (we found the small large enough to satisfy one person, and the servings of rice are perhaps even a bit over generous).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found all the proteins with the exception of the poached chicken to be well-seasoned even without the sauces, but to not use the sauces would be a crime. The fried items were not the least bit greasy and the pork was especially flavorful even pre-sauced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We couldn’t help but wonder though, how many people except for the die-hard health nuts would order the KMG given the more attractive options of fried chicken or pork. But fear not, healthy people. Just a drizzle of this brown sauce elevates it to such a degree, that one need not fear. The only thing we didn’t like post-sauce was the skin; Keh confirmed that in Asia they eat every part of the chicken, but after poaching, the skin becomes limp and rubbery, everything you do not want chicken skin to be.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120449\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120449\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg\" alt=\"All menu items at Chick'n Rice\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6173-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All menu items at Chick'n Rice \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fried chicken came with sweet chili sauce; the tofu nuggets came with a different kind of soy based-sauce and the pork had a green sauce that was spicy and acidic and fragrant in the best possible way; it looked like a tomatillo salsa but of course it wasn’t; while we were told it had Thai green chilies, cilantro and vinegar in it, we tried without avail to guess what gave it its funk. It wasn’t fish sauce, and while Keh told us in a moment of weakness, he asked us to keep it a secret (and I will say that this writer, who knows a thing or two about food, had never heard of it).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found the soup less interesting, but it too could be easily doctored up with the addition of more ginger and chilies, which they have on hand. We added some of the poached chicken to the soup, and with a bit of additional ginger and chilies, it was transformed into something an Asian grandmother might make.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leaving Chick’n Rice without dessert would be a shame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keh called their dessert options an accident, in that they knew they wanted to offer a dessert, but had no idea what to do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was hot out in Thailand, as it often is, and they wandered into a market to see what they could get that would be cool and refreshing. They found the traditional sticky rice and mango, but with a scoop of coconut ice cream. That same dessert is on offer, with a base of sticky rice cooked in coconut milk with a scoop of coconut, lychee or Thai iced tea ice cream on top. The ice cream comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/polly-ann-ice-cream-san-francisco\">Polly Ann Ice Cream\u003c/a> in the Outer Sunset district of San Francisco, and next to that green sauce for the pork was our favorite dish of the night. One wouldn’t go wrong by ordering any of the three flavors, but we definitely preferred the coconut or Thai iced tea over the lychee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120462\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-120462\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chick’n Rice is open daily until 10pm\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/IMG_6274-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chick’n Rice is open daily 11am until 10pm \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatchicknrice.com/\">\u003cstrong>Chick’n Rice\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2136 Center St., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/S2PfLs\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nHours: Open daily from 11am-10pm (Opens Friday 9/8/17)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/eatchicknrice/\">Chick’n Rice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/eatchicknrice/\">@eatchicknrice\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $ ($8.99-$10.99 per entree)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Guide: Where to Eat Now in Sonoma County",
"title": "Guide: Where to Eat Now in Sonoma County",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>With the bounty and the heat of late summer cresting, Sonoma Magazine's Dining Editor \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/biteclub/\">Heather Irwin\u003c/a> finds outdoor spots in which to cool down, beer up and enjoy the best of harvest season. Also: Seasonal doughnuts, boozy cupcakes and Bangkok in Sebastopol.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Amy’s Wicked Slush, Healdsburg\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Locals are lining up in droves to get a taste of something wicked in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in time for summer, Boston native Amy Covin has opened Amy’s Wicked Slush just steps from the Russian River — bringing an icy sweet treat of her childhood to Sonoma County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s a slush? Unless you’re from the East Coast, you probably have no idea. Think of this iconic New England dessert as Icee meets sorbet meets shave ice. Available in sizes from pipsqueak to “there’s no way you can eat that, bro,” slush is properly eaten with a spoon rather than a straw. Expect to find yourself with a wicked good melty mess on your hands halfway in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120472,120474,120473\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Wicked Slush is no mere ice cream shack. It’s more of an ode to Amy’s favorite New England foods, featuring nearly a dozen flavors of slush (mango and cherry to classic lemon) along with freshly made bagels and Italian subs that are straight from the North End of Boston.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah, the bagels! These are seriously good ones that don’t turn into a pile of crumbs when you cut them. It’s one of the only things we miss terribly about New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the Italian subs! Piles of mortadella, capicola, “hots” and not a dab of mustard in sight with a perfect hoagie roll. Bad delis have given this classic a bad name. The “half,” however, is bigger than your arm, and you’ll likely eat the whole thing. The whole is… well, bring a team to help you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wicked Slush didn’t happen by chance. Covin worked with local BurtoNZ Bakery in Windsor for three months to get the Italian hoagie rolls and boiled/baked bagels as authentic as possible. For the sandwiches, she used the power of persuasion and a whole lot of charm to get the secret recipes from the biggest names in Boston’s deli scene. And Covin can be very persuasive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is just street food,” says the former CPA (she worked this tax season while opening the slush spot) and president of Healdsburg’s Prune Packers baseball team.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though she had no real interest in a restaurant, after a string of tragedies that included her home burning to the ground and her daughter being seriously injured in a car accident, Covin was ready to leave her desk job and enjoy life a little more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting on the deck of Wicked Slush in a T-shirt, her fingers slush-stained as she holds her 2-month-old grandson, she’s clearly found her bliss. For the 55-year-old, that even includes pulling all-nighters jamming to Bruce Springsteen and making slush for the next day. That, and teaching high school kids she mentors how to properly make a dip cone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Usually on their fourth try they get it,” she says. But not without a few mishaps along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With her son Benny as general manager and most of her other family members, including her dad and her husband, helping out, there’s a cheerful kind of insanity as lines begin to form even on an early Tuesday afternoon. “We were lucky to survive the first week,” she laughs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Covin is currently working on her Wicked Wagon, a mobile slush truck for events and deliveries that will let the rest of Sonoma County taste a bit of Wicked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>13840 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-9253, \u003ca href=\"http://wickedslush.com/\">wickedslush.com\u003c/a>. Dog- and kid-friendly.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Trading Post, Cloverdale\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>After ownership changes last winter, new chef-owner Erik Johnson and baker Aaron Arabian are seriously ready for a close-up on their garden-to-table concept in the emerging culinary destination of Cloverdale. With late summer’s bountiful days upon us, there’s no better time to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu, in part, revolves around Ronnie’s Garden, the restaurant’s own culinary plot. Restaurant gardener Ron Ferrato’s Instagram account (@ferratosgarden) hosts a rainbow of lettuces, daikon, peas and whatever else is popping at the moment. That translates in the daily “Ronnie’s garden” ($8) plate of the morning’s vegetables, “prepared on a whim.” Don’t miss it. Our version included a lightly dressed salad of pea shoots, radish, chamomile-soaked carrots, pickled strawberries and daikon with house-made ricotta with black sesame seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120484,120485,120486\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Trading Post bread basket ($6) is a signature, with a daily selection of baker Arabian’s painstakingly made, always insanely delicious breads with house-cultured butters. Not your usual sad basket of dried-out baguettes, but Parmesan focaccia, wheat bread, sourdough and a hearty seeded wheat. You’ll want to leave with a loaf or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As seasons change, so will the menu, but there’s always a daily tartine, half roast chicken that’s juicier than a telenovela and duck fat potato tots that will make you weep with happiness. There are burgers and a flat iron steak for more traditional eaters, and a three-course midweek market menu is available for $30 per person on Wednesdays. Don’t miss the small takeout counter with breads, cookies and tarts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>102 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6483, \u003ca href=\"http://thepostcloverdale.com/\">thepostcloverdale.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>City Garden Doughnuts, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>These aren’t workaday donuts or wacky cereal-coated marshmallow-dipped curiosities that are more fun to look at than eat. Instead, City Garden takes a more subtle approach, using intensely flavored glazes made with fresh fruit (the lemon glaze is perfectly pucker-worthy) and chocolate atop pillowy brioche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120487,120483,120470\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Alan McCandless said he planned to either open a donut shop or a hamburger place. Or maybe a pizzeria. Donuts won, and over the last six months he created City Garden Doughnuts — named for the 1860sera Santa Rosa public garden that once stood nearby. Must-tries include the lemon, pepper and pistachio Santa Barbara donut; the maple bacon combo (made with Hobbs bacon) that’s a taste of Sunday morning any day of the week; orange-glazed with fresh orange juice and zest; strawberry-glazed; and Guittard chocolate with sea salt. Scones aren’t usually worth the calories, but City Garden’s “Hobbs” scone is (and we don’t say this lightly) the best scone we’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike the dusty hockey pucks we’ve had at too many places, this version falls apart like a stood-up prom date, but with a whole lot of bacon, Vella cheddar and green onion inside. Need a glucose stabilizer after all that yummy? City Garden Doughnuts’ Harney and Sons Cinnamon Spice Nitro Ice Tea is our official drink of the summer — made with three types of cinnamon, no sugar and a flavor that slaps your taste buds awake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1200 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-1932, \u003ca href=\"http://facebook.com/CityGardenDoughnuts\">facebook.com/CityGardenDoughnuts\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Brewster’s Beer Garden, Petaluma\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>BBQ and brews are the focus at this 350-seat outdoor beer garden in the heart of downtown Petaluma. Having tasted some of the very best — and very worst — barbecue that Sonoma County has to offer, we give Brewster’s high marks for flavor and technique. When it’s been a good long while since you’ve had a barbecued rib that actually falls off the bone without the use of a knife/hacksaw/gnawing, Brewster’s will be welcome relief — with smoky, saucy pork that acquiesces like a Georgia peach in August.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120477,120476,120475\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To avoid starting a civil war between ’quethusiasts, chef Chris Beerman makes a solid Texas-style beef brisket, St. Louis-style pork ribs and even smoked Korean short ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though there are also smoked beets, smoked wings, smoky pork belly, a smoky mezcal cocktail and smoked tea leaves, don’t bank on Brewster’s being just a barbecue spot. Modern comfort classics include his signature onion ring-topped mac and cheese, fried chicken sandwich and chocolate brownie sundae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The space is immense, with a plethora of picnic-style tables that are great for a group, or if you’re interested in being social. There’s a bocce court for grownups and a kids’ area to let the tots go nuts. Brunch, served on Saturday and Sunday, and an abbreviated lunch menu start at 11:30 a.m. and go until 5 p.m., when the larger dinner menu emerges. A children’s menu features chicken fingers and other tasty kid grub. Dogs are welcome, and there are weekly music events Friday through Sunday. Every other Thursday is Bluegrass and Bourbon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This busy restaurant can get crowded, and service can range from enthusiastic to dismissive depending on the time of day and staffing. Plating can also get a little haphazard when the kitchen is really humming. Finding the restaurant is tricky, since there’s not much signage from the street. Just follow your nose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>229 Water St. N., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, \u003ca href=\"http://brewstersbeergarden.com/\">brewstersbeergarden.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bump City Bakery, Petaluma\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The transition from fish biologist to baker isn’t as crazy as it might seem, according to Bump City Bakery’s Emily Floyd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cupcake, pie and cookie baker who used to spend her days studying the habitats of local fish now uses her science background as a basis for creating delicious gluten-free and vegan goodies. If you’ve ever tried to swap out typical baking ingredients with things like amaranth powder, rice flour, coconut milk and nut butters, you know gluten-free and vegan cooking is an exact science. Too much of one thing or not enough of another can make the mix grainy, or too dense, or just plain yucky. A biology and science background helps her tinker and experiment with foundational ingredients to get things just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120468,120466,120467\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just right also means spiking most of her cupcakes with a little booze (rum, Bailey’s, Campari, gin, bourbon or brandy) and calling them “Drunken Cupcakes.” Though the flavors change up, we downed almost three cupcakes in a single sitting: Irish Car Bomb (chocolate cake with Jameson, Bailey’s buttercream and chocolate sprinkles); Orange Creamsicle (nonalcoholic) and our very favorite, the Dark and Stormy with ginger-beer cake, dark rum and lime buttercream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of Floyd’s cupcakes are on a bender, with flavors like raspberry cheesecake, chocolate chocolate and vanilla vanilla, along with Creamsicle and whatever else she comes up with. Floyd also makes vegan cookies like Peanut Butter Cup, oatmeal raisin walnut, chocolate chip oatmeal and Salty Date with dates, pecans, almonds and chocolate chips. Rye Pecan Pie with Bulleit rye whiskey and key lime pies are available to order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>122 American Alley, Suite B, Petaluma, 707-888-9026, \u003ca href=\"http://bumpcitybakery.com/\">bumpcitybakery.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Khom Loi Pop-Up, Sebastopol\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>At the Khom Loi Thai pop-up in Sebastopol, there’s nothing shy or demure about the spicy, sweet, sour flavors of East Asia\u003cbr>\non the plate. The fire in my face, complete with watering eyes and running nose, makes that abundantly clear. Ramen Gaijin owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Shuman — who started their own ramen shop as a pop-up several years ago at Woodfour Brewing — are hosting a handful of summer dinners inspired by travels in Northern Thailand and Laos. The food focuses on Chiang Mai and nearby Laos, with nods to Central and Southern Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120482,120480,120479\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Packed to capacity on a warm summer night, the restaurant temps were already feeling a little bit Bangkokish. But a brisk housemade Thai Iced Tea and cocktail king Scott Beattie’s Tiger Uppercut (house coconut-fat washed rum, lime, coconut milk, raw ginger, Thai herbs) loaded with ice in a handmade pottery cup was as welcome as a cold shower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first Khom Loi menu included tiny bamboo baskets of sticky rice (khao niaw, $3), and cold green papaya salad with braised octopus (som tam plahmuk, $13) that made us remember why we love this grated mixture of sour papaya, beans, cherry tomatoes, dried shrimp, fish sauce, lime and not-fooling-around chiles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also couldn’t get enough of the charcoal grilled mushroom salad (het paa nom tok, $12) with a punch of mint and fish sauce, lemongrass and toasted rice powder. As an entrée, the standout was Chiang Mai-style yellow curry (khoa soi gai, $14) that’s a soothing, creamy foil to the heat of spicier dishes. With slippery noodles, coconut milk, chicken and chili sauce, you’ll be lapping at the bottom of the bowl within minutes. Menus will change over the course of the pop-ups, which are twice monthly. Check out \u003ca href=\"http://ramengaijin.com/\">ramengaijin.com\u003c/a> for details on upcoming events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, \u003ca href=\"http://ramengaijin.com/\">ramengaijin.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was originally published on \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/best-restaurants-sonoma/\">Sonomamag.com\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "With the bounty and the heat of late summer cresting, Sonoma Magazine’s Dining Editor Heather Irwin finds outdoor spots in which to cool down, beer up and enjoy the best of harvest season. Also: Seasonal doughnuts, boozy cupcakes and Bangkok in Sebastopol.\r\n\r\n",
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"nprByline": "\u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/author/heatherirwin/\">Heather Irwin,\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/\">Sonoma Magazine\u003c/a>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>With the bounty and the heat of late summer cresting, Sonoma Magazine's Dining Editor \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/biteclub/\">Heather Irwin\u003c/a> finds outdoor spots in which to cool down, beer up and enjoy the best of harvest season. Also: Seasonal doughnuts, boozy cupcakes and Bangkok in Sebastopol.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Amy’s Wicked Slush, Healdsburg\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Locals are lining up in droves to get a taste of something wicked in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just in time for summer, Boston native Amy Covin has opened Amy’s Wicked Slush just steps from the Russian River — bringing an icy sweet treat of her childhood to Sonoma County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s a slush? Unless you’re from the East Coast, you probably have no idea. Think of this iconic New England dessert as Icee meets sorbet meets shave ice. Available in sizes from pipsqueak to “there’s no way you can eat that, bro,” slush is properly eaten with a spoon rather than a straw. Expect to find yourself with a wicked good melty mess on your hands halfway in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Wicked Slush is no mere ice cream shack. It’s more of an ode to Amy’s favorite New England foods, featuring nearly a dozen flavors of slush (mango and cherry to classic lemon) along with freshly made bagels and Italian subs that are straight from the North End of Boston.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah, the bagels! These are seriously good ones that don’t turn into a pile of crumbs when you cut them. It’s one of the only things we miss terribly about New York City.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the Italian subs! Piles of mortadella, capicola, “hots” and not a dab of mustard in sight with a perfect hoagie roll. Bad delis have given this classic a bad name. The “half,” however, is bigger than your arm, and you’ll likely eat the whole thing. The whole is… well, bring a team to help you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wicked Slush didn’t happen by chance. Covin worked with local BurtoNZ Bakery in Windsor for three months to get the Italian hoagie rolls and boiled/baked bagels as authentic as possible. For the sandwiches, she used the power of persuasion and a whole lot of charm to get the secret recipes from the biggest names in Boston’s deli scene. And Covin can be very persuasive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is just street food,” says the former CPA (she worked this tax season while opening the slush spot) and president of Healdsburg’s Prune Packers baseball team.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though she had no real interest in a restaurant, after a string of tragedies that included her home burning to the ground and her daughter being seriously injured in a car accident, Covin was ready to leave her desk job and enjoy life a little more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting on the deck of Wicked Slush in a T-shirt, her fingers slush-stained as she holds her 2-month-old grandson, she’s clearly found her bliss. For the 55-year-old, that even includes pulling all-nighters jamming to Bruce Springsteen and making slush for the next day. That, and teaching high school kids she mentors how to properly make a dip cone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Usually on their fourth try they get it,” she says. But not without a few mishaps along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With her son Benny as general manager and most of her other family members, including her dad and her husband, helping out, there’s a cheerful kind of insanity as lines begin to form even on an early Tuesday afternoon. “We were lucky to survive the first week,” she laughs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Covin is currently working on her Wicked Wagon, a mobile slush truck for events and deliveries that will let the rest of Sonoma County taste a bit of Wicked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>13840 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-431-9253, \u003ca href=\"http://wickedslush.com/\">wickedslush.com\u003c/a>. Dog- and kid-friendly.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Trading Post, Cloverdale\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>After ownership changes last winter, new chef-owner Erik Johnson and baker Aaron Arabian are seriously ready for a close-up on their garden-to-table concept in the emerging culinary destination of Cloverdale. With late summer’s bountiful days upon us, there’s no better time to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu, in part, revolves around Ronnie’s Garden, the restaurant’s own culinary plot. Restaurant gardener Ron Ferrato’s Instagram account (@ferratosgarden) hosts a rainbow of lettuces, daikon, peas and whatever else is popping at the moment. That translates in the daily “Ronnie’s garden” ($8) plate of the morning’s vegetables, “prepared on a whim.” Don’t miss it. Our version included a lightly dressed salad of pea shoots, radish, chamomile-soaked carrots, pickled strawberries and daikon with house-made ricotta with black sesame seeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Trading Post bread basket ($6) is a signature, with a daily selection of baker Arabian’s painstakingly made, always insanely delicious breads with house-cultured butters. Not your usual sad basket of dried-out baguettes, but Parmesan focaccia, wheat bread, sourdough and a hearty seeded wheat. You’ll want to leave with a loaf or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As seasons change, so will the menu, but there’s always a daily tartine, half roast chicken that’s juicier than a telenovela and duck fat potato tots that will make you weep with happiness. There are burgers and a flat iron steak for more traditional eaters, and a three-course midweek market menu is available for $30 per person on Wednesdays. Don’t miss the small takeout counter with breads, cookies and tarts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>102 S. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale, 707-894-6483, \u003ca href=\"http://thepostcloverdale.com/\">thepostcloverdale.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>City Garden Doughnuts, Santa Rosa\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>These aren’t workaday donuts or wacky cereal-coated marshmallow-dipped curiosities that are more fun to look at than eat. Instead, City Garden takes a more subtle approach, using intensely flavored glazes made with fresh fruit (the lemon glaze is perfectly pucker-worthy) and chocolate atop pillowy brioche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owner Alan McCandless said he planned to either open a donut shop or a hamburger place. Or maybe a pizzeria. Donuts won, and over the last six months he created City Garden Doughnuts — named for the 1860sera Santa Rosa public garden that once stood nearby. Must-tries include the lemon, pepper and pistachio Santa Barbara donut; the maple bacon combo (made with Hobbs bacon) that’s a taste of Sunday morning any day of the week; orange-glazed with fresh orange juice and zest; strawberry-glazed; and Guittard chocolate with sea salt. Scones aren’t usually worth the calories, but City Garden’s “Hobbs” scone is (and we don’t say this lightly) the best scone we’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike the dusty hockey pucks we’ve had at too many places, this version falls apart like a stood-up prom date, but with a whole lot of bacon, Vella cheddar and green onion inside. Need a glucose stabilizer after all that yummy? City Garden Doughnuts’ Harney and Sons Cinnamon Spice Nitro Ice Tea is our official drink of the summer — made with three types of cinnamon, no sugar and a flavor that slaps your taste buds awake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>1200 Fourth St., Santa Rosa, 707-595-1932, \u003ca href=\"http://facebook.com/CityGardenDoughnuts\">facebook.com/CityGardenDoughnuts\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Brewster’s Beer Garden, Petaluma\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>BBQ and brews are the focus at this 350-seat outdoor beer garden in the heart of downtown Petaluma. Having tasted some of the very best — and very worst — barbecue that Sonoma County has to offer, we give Brewster’s high marks for flavor and technique. When it’s been a good long while since you’ve had a barbecued rib that actually falls off the bone without the use of a knife/hacksaw/gnawing, Brewster’s will be welcome relief — with smoky, saucy pork that acquiesces like a Georgia peach in August.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To avoid starting a civil war between ’quethusiasts, chef Chris Beerman makes a solid Texas-style beef brisket, St. Louis-style pork ribs and even smoked Korean short ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though there are also smoked beets, smoked wings, smoky pork belly, a smoky mezcal cocktail and smoked tea leaves, don’t bank on Brewster’s being just a barbecue spot. Modern comfort classics include his signature onion ring-topped mac and cheese, fried chicken sandwich and chocolate brownie sundae.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The space is immense, with a plethora of picnic-style tables that are great for a group, or if you’re interested in being social. There’s a bocce court for grownups and a kids’ area to let the tots go nuts. Brunch, served on Saturday and Sunday, and an abbreviated lunch menu start at 11:30 a.m. and go until 5 p.m., when the larger dinner menu emerges. A children’s menu features chicken fingers and other tasty kid grub. Dogs are welcome, and there are weekly music events Friday through Sunday. Every other Thursday is Bluegrass and Bourbon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This busy restaurant can get crowded, and service can range from enthusiastic to dismissive depending on the time of day and staffing. Plating can also get a little haphazard when the kitchen is really humming. Finding the restaurant is tricky, since there’s not much signage from the street. Just follow your nose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>229 Water St. N., Petaluma, 707-981-8330, \u003ca href=\"http://brewstersbeergarden.com/\">brewstersbeergarden.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Bump City Bakery, Petaluma\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The transition from fish biologist to baker isn’t as crazy as it might seem, according to Bump City Bakery’s Emily Floyd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cupcake, pie and cookie baker who used to spend her days studying the habitats of local fish now uses her science background as a basis for creating delicious gluten-free and vegan goodies. If you’ve ever tried to swap out typical baking ingredients with things like amaranth powder, rice flour, coconut milk and nut butters, you know gluten-free and vegan cooking is an exact science. Too much of one thing or not enough of another can make the mix grainy, or too dense, or just plain yucky. A biology and science background helps her tinker and experiment with foundational ingredients to get things just right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just right also means spiking most of her cupcakes with a little booze (rum, Bailey’s, Campari, gin, bourbon or brandy) and calling them “Drunken Cupcakes.” Though the flavors change up, we downed almost three cupcakes in a single sitting: Irish Car Bomb (chocolate cake with Jameson, Bailey’s buttercream and chocolate sprinkles); Orange Creamsicle (nonalcoholic) and our very favorite, the Dark and Stormy with ginger-beer cake, dark rum and lime buttercream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not all of Floyd’s cupcakes are on a bender, with flavors like raspberry cheesecake, chocolate chocolate and vanilla vanilla, along with Creamsicle and whatever else she comes up with. Floyd also makes vegan cookies like Peanut Butter Cup, oatmeal raisin walnut, chocolate chip oatmeal and Salty Date with dates, pecans, almonds and chocolate chips. Rye Pecan Pie with Bulleit rye whiskey and key lime pies are available to order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>122 American Alley, Suite B, Petaluma, 707-888-9026, \u003ca href=\"http://bumpcitybakery.com/\">bumpcitybakery.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Khom Loi Pop-Up, Sebastopol\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>At the Khom Loi Thai pop-up in Sebastopol, there’s nothing shy or demure about the spicy, sweet, sour flavors of East Asia\u003cbr>\non the plate. The fire in my face, complete with watering eyes and running nose, makes that abundantly clear. Ramen Gaijin owners Matthew Williams and Moishe Hahn-Shuman — who started their own ramen shop as a pop-up several years ago at Woodfour Brewing — are hosting a handful of summer dinners inspired by travels in Northern Thailand and Laos. The food focuses on Chiang Mai and nearby Laos, with nods to Central and Southern Thailand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Packed to capacity on a warm summer night, the restaurant temps were already feeling a little bit Bangkokish. But a brisk housemade Thai Iced Tea and cocktail king Scott Beattie’s Tiger Uppercut (house coconut-fat washed rum, lime, coconut milk, raw ginger, Thai herbs) loaded with ice in a handmade pottery cup was as welcome as a cold shower.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first Khom Loi menu included tiny bamboo baskets of sticky rice (khao niaw, $3), and cold green papaya salad with braised octopus (som tam plahmuk, $13) that made us remember why we love this grated mixture of sour papaya, beans, cherry tomatoes, dried shrimp, fish sauce, lime and not-fooling-around chiles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We also couldn’t get enough of the charcoal grilled mushroom salad (het paa nom tok, $12) with a punch of mint and fish sauce, lemongrass and toasted rice powder. As an entrée, the standout was Chiang Mai-style yellow curry (khoa soi gai, $14) that’s a soothing, creamy foil to the heat of spicier dishes. With slippery noodles, coconut milk, chicken and chili sauce, you’ll be lapping at the bottom of the bowl within minutes. Menus will change over the course of the pop-ups, which are twice monthly. Check out \u003ca href=\"http://ramengaijin.com/\">ramengaijin.com\u003c/a> for details on upcoming events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6948 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol, 707-827-3609, \u003ca href=\"http://ramengaijin.com/\">ramengaijin.com\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was originally published on \u003ca href=\"http://www.sonomamag.com/best-restaurants-sonoma/\">Sonomamag.com\u003c/a>\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "3, 2, 1 ... Beeeep! Your Microwave's 50th Anniversary Is Ready",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/09/20170904_me_3_2_1_beeeep_your_microwaves_50th_anniversary_is_ready.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just like comedian \u003ca href=\"http://www.rodney.com/\">Rodney Dangerfield\u003c/a>, the microwave oven often gets no respect. Every kitchen has one, but no self-respecting cook would admit to using it for anything more than just heating up last night's pasta. But it's hard to deny the influence the food-nuker has had on American life, and this year marks 50 years since its arrival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first countertop microwave was the Amana Radarange, which debuted in 1967 and sold for $495. It's the appliance that made zapping your food as routine as brushing your teeth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was called the \"Radarange\" because of a happy accident by an engineer who was working for the defense contractor Raytheon in the 1940s. Percy Spencer was using a magnetron, a device that generates the radio waves that are at the heart of radar technology. When he turned on the magnetron, he noticed that the candy bar in his front pocket was starting to melt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://explore.georgetown.edu/people/tjorge01/\">Timothy Jorgensen\u003c/a>, an associate professor of radiation medicine at Georgetown University, said Spencer then took the magnetron and pointed it at a raw egg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And the egg quickly heated up and exploded. And then he got some popcorn kernels and the popcorn kernels started to pop. So you can see where this is going.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raytheon went on to patent the microwave oven. But the first attempts at microwaves didn't catch on. They were huge, expensive and Jorgensen said the dishes came out looking kind of gross.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It didn't make the food brown like people were used to seeing from the oven. So there were spray-on things that you would spray on meats and things to make it brown and make it look like it had cooked in the oven.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creepy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward to today and it's still sometimes hard to find microwave dishes that actually look like something you want to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joe Yonan, the food and dining editor for The \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/food/?utm_term=.a5befae21bc0\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, makes a delicious microwave dessert called \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/recipes/strawberry-air-cakes-vanilla-cream/15981/?utm_term=.8a153527e2d9\">Strawberry Air Cakes\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It tastes like strawberry shortcake, but when it first comes out of the oven, it looks like an alien blob. Yonan says the key to microwave cooking is understanding what the ovens do well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you think about it, a microwave is targeting water. It's heating up the water molecules in the food. So steaming is great.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All it takes are a few splashes of water and couple of minutes in the microwave and green beans come out crisp and tasty, not mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Microwave \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipe/251600/microwave-potato-chips/\">potato chips\u003c/a> are all the rage on the Internet. They're crunchy, delicious and much healthier than anything that comes from a bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Yonan says unless you're stuck on a desert island and the only machine you have is a microwave, don't use it to cook meat. He says meats need to heat up more slowly to get the right the taste and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you can't call yourself a real cook unless you've ruined a meal or two in the microwave. As they saying goes, there's no such thing as a mistake in the kitchen, just a new recipe waiting to be born. Think of it as your chance to add a page to the now 50-year-old history of the little electromagnetic box that could. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just like comedian \u003ca href=\"http://www.rodney.com/\">Rodney Dangerfield\u003c/a>, the microwave oven often gets no respect. Every kitchen has one, but no self-respecting cook would admit to using it for anything more than just heating up last night's pasta. But it's hard to deny the influence the food-nuker has had on American life, and this year marks 50 years since its arrival.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first countertop microwave was the Amana Radarange, which debuted in 1967 and sold for $495. It's the appliance that made zapping your food as routine as brushing your teeth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was called the \"Radarange\" because of a happy accident by an engineer who was working for the defense contractor Raytheon in the 1940s. Percy Spencer was using a magnetron, a device that generates the radio waves that are at the heart of radar technology. When he turned on the magnetron, he noticed that the candy bar in his front pocket was starting to melt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://explore.georgetown.edu/people/tjorge01/\">Timothy Jorgensen\u003c/a>, an associate professor of radiation medicine at Georgetown University, said Spencer then took the magnetron and pointed it at a raw egg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And the egg quickly heated up and exploded. And then he got some popcorn kernels and the popcorn kernels started to pop. So you can see where this is going.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raytheon went on to patent the microwave oven. But the first attempts at microwaves didn't catch on. They were huge, expensive and Jorgensen said the dishes came out looking kind of gross.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It didn't make the food brown like people were used to seeing from the oven. So there were spray-on things that you would spray on meats and things to make it brown and make it look like it had cooked in the oven.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creepy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward to today and it's still sometimes hard to find microwave dishes that actually look like something you want to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joe Yonan, the food and dining editor for The \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/food/?utm_term=.a5befae21bc0\">Washington Post\u003c/a>, makes a delicious microwave dessert called \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/recipes/strawberry-air-cakes-vanilla-cream/15981/?utm_term=.8a153527e2d9\">Strawberry Air Cakes\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It tastes like strawberry shortcake, but when it first comes out of the oven, it looks like an alien blob. Yonan says the key to microwave cooking is understanding what the ovens do well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you think about it, a microwave is targeting water. It's heating up the water molecules in the food. So steaming is great.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All it takes are a few splashes of water and couple of minutes in the microwave and green beans come out crisp and tasty, not mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Microwave \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipe/251600/microwave-potato-chips/\">potato chips\u003c/a> are all the rage on the Internet. They're crunchy, delicious and much healthier than anything that comes from a bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Yonan says unless you're stuck on a desert island and the only machine you have is a microwave, don't use it to cook meat. He says meats need to heat up more slowly to get the right the taste and texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you can't call yourself a real cook unless you've ruined a meal or two in the microwave. As they saying goes, there's no such thing as a mistake in the kitchen, just a new recipe waiting to be born. Think of it as your chance to add a page to the now 50-year-old history of the little electromagnetic box that could. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "A Black Food Historian Explores His Bittersweet Connection To Robert E. Lee",
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"content": "\u003cp>Over the past few months, as the contentious ghost of Robert E. Lee galloped through the headlines, Southern food historian Michael W. Twitty's thoughts turned to the bittersweet connection his family shares with the Confederate general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On April 9, 1865, Twitty's great-great grandfather, Elijah Mitchell, and his older brother, George, happened to be on a street in the village of Appomattox Court House, Va., when General Lee, in full dress uniform, exited the McLean House after surrendering to Union General Ulysses S. Grant. It didn't take long for the two teenage lads to grasp the import of that ceremonial tableau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120375\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately.\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120375\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-160x189.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-240x283.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-375x442.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-520x613.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michael Twitty)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment, as the Confederacy's 150-year mourning period began,\" writes Twitty in his new book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Gene-Journey-African-American-Culinary/dp/0062379291\">The Cooking Gene\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, \"my great-great grandfather and his brother counted themselves among the first black people to find out that the long nightmare of American slavery — nearly three centuries in the making — was over. Their slaveholder, Blake Mitchell, immediately declared them free — even as they still held his horse in place, waiting for whatever was to come next.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twitty's prose movingly captures this momentous and profoundly personal moment and provides a glimpse of the scope and tone of his deeply researched, sometimes rambling, but altogether fascinating book that braids personal memoir, genealogy and culinary excavation to tell the story of a whole people through the lineage of their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is Twitty's flag. \"They took our names, they took our gods, they took our religion but they didn't take our food,\" he says. His aim is twofold: to puzzle out \"a recipe of who I am and where I came from,\" and, in doing so, to document how his captive ancestors radically enriched the diet of the antebellum South. They did this both through the produce — rice, okra, peanuts, cowpeas — that came with them on those slave ships from Africa, and through their skills in creating an \"edible jazz\" of barbecue, fried chicken, jambalaya, feijoada, spicy peanut stews, crispy okra, rice pudding and innumerable other dishes from their impoverished pantries. They were exemplars of farm-to-table and nose-to-tail cooking long before these hip terms were even coined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Twitty's percussive phrase, the \"enslaved enslaved the palate of those who enslaved them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, as the vexed debate over Confederate monuments \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/08/16/us/confederate-monuments-removed.html?_r=0\">consumes the country\u003c/a>, Twitty's book makes for important reading. Food historians like Twitty, much like the groups rallying for and against the monuments, are enjoined in the battle of memory — in Twitty's case, the memory of who \"owns\" Southern food, and what role African Americans have in that commemoration. Twitty's frontline may be the kitchen rather than the traffic circle, but his subject is as viscerally intertwined with race as any Confederate monument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our influence across the South,\" he writes, \"conquered more territory than any Confederate army ever managed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ringing statement, for which unwitting support can be found from no less than the \u003cem>beau ideal\u003c/em> of the Confederacy. Lee, who loved his black cook's fried chicken, \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/making-sense-of-robert-e-lee-85017563/\">once said\u003c/a> that all he wanted was \"a Virginia farm — no end of cream and fresh butter — and fried chicken. Not one fried chicken or two — but unlimited fried chicken.\" Moreover, during the Union blockade, when the South faced starvation, Lee praised the cowpea (also called black-eyed pea or cornfield pea) as \"the only unfailing friend the Confederacy ever had.\" Ironically, it was the humble West African cowpea and the African peanut that kept Southerners fed when bread was scarce. \"Living proof that African civilization was part and parcel of Southern existence,\" says Twitty. \"They couldn't do it without us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Twitty's projects is his \"Southern Discomfort Tour\" — a journey through the \"forgotten little Africa\" of the Old South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter\": He picks cotton, chops wood, works in rice fields and cooks for audiences in plantation kitchens while dressed in slave clothing to recreate what his ancestors had to endure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120378\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 341px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png\" alt='Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\"' width=\"341\" height=\"454\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120378\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png 341w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-240x320.png 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 341px) 100vw, 341px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Corey H. Weierke)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On one such trip to Virginia, Twitty cooked at Lee's birth home, Stratford Hall, an imposing brick manor with a commanding view of the Potomac. He says:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a big, old, cavernous kitchen. You could roast a whole ox in the fireplace if you wanted. The floor is all brick, so the cook could use the entire surface of the floor as a range. That brick floor will make your back ache and your feet feel like cement at the end of the day. Here I was, roasting chickens, making persimmon pudding, hot rolls, rabbit stew, oysters, and the light kept changing and getting darker and darker and the pots felt heavier and heavier. I'm in my interpreter's clothing — trousers, waistcoat, long shirt, kerchief — and caught between humidity and a December chill and it was the first time I really connected with the idea that not only was this not easy — it was tortuous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there were the guests. A woman from the United Daughters of the Confederacy chose to pivot from an uncomfortable discussion on slavery to Stratford Hall's architectural details. The Daughters then went upstairs, and in Twitty's \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhxjC3XX54g\">incredulous words\u003c/a>, \"wept over the crib of Robert E. Lee and prayed over it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment,\" he says, \"I had to run, I had to go, I felt I might have a one-man slave revolt.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On another occasion, at a South Carolina plantation, when an elderly German observed that America needed to deal with slavery like Germany had dealt with the Holocaust, the room of older white Southerners cleared out. \"They couldn't take it,\" Twitty \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYE0dG80JTw&t=1844s\">said in an interview\u003c/a>. \"They were there for us to be happy and cook and create wonderful smells in the kitchen. I'm not indicting them — they were older, probably the same age as the German man, but fed completely different messages of power, race, identity and truth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those messages also fueled the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KosherSoul/status/900570816487849984\">fusillade of tweets\u003c/a> that Twitty directed at President Donald Trump in response to the latter's tweet that removing statues was like ripping apart the country's history and culture. But Twitty also cautions that while toppling statues may be exhilarating, it may also be a simplistic show of justice. \"In my former town, Rockville, Maryland, they covered up the statue in honor of the Confederate solider the first time this debate had cultural currency,\" he says. \"And guess what? Systemic racism still exists. Honestly, maybe we should reverse it. It feels like we are eating the icing before the cake. Fight and demolish systemic racism and micro-aggressions and then celebrate by removing symbols of the old guard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seeking \"culinary justice\" for African Americans is Twitty's contribution to this long fight. It's what propels his blog, \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria.com\u003c/a>, what made him object to an article hailing a Southern white chef for \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2016/03/23/dear-sean-we-need-to-talk/\">\"discovering\"\u003c/a> the African roots of Southern cuisine; and what prompted him to write an \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2013/06/25/an-open-letter-to-paula-deen/\">open letter\u003c/a> to Georgia chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/06/27/196133579/racial-slur-puts-paula-deens-empire-at-risk\">Paula Deen\u003c/a> — he calls her \"a cousin, not a combatant\" — inviting her to discuss race over a shared meal at a plantation. \"The South,\" he wrote, \"isn't the birthplace or the natural home of America's racism. It has changed in many ways for the better, but now we have politicians and legislators trying to reverse the clock because they were horrified that a Black man got into the Oval Office. So we have a lot of work to do. I will sit anybody down at the same table, but they have to be willing to not go back to the patterns of the past. \u003cem>Sankofa \u003c/em>— in the words of my Akan ancestors: take the good from the past and move forward.\" His letter went viral, but Deen didn't respond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who is black, gay and Jewish, Twitty is emblematic of everything neo-Nazis rail against. His calm retort is that \"America is the only place on earth where I'm possible, and that is the dirty little secret behind these hate groups. They are here to take away the possibilities that America the Ideal represents.\" Undeterred by the Charlottesville riot, Twitty will soon \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritageharvestfestival.com/speakers/michael-w-twitty/\">be there\u003c/a>, cooking at the Monticello kitchen where Thomas Jefferson's enslaved \u003cem>chef de cuisine\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/17/449447335/behind-the-founding-foodie-a-french-trained-chef-bound-by-slavery\">James Hemings\u003c/a> once turned out gourmet confections. Hemings' legacy is as important to him as that of Elijah Mitchell, his great-great grandfather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened to young Elijah? \"He got land from the Mitchells after being a free hand for a while and a domestic,\" says Twitty. \"He married twice and taught his wife and children to read and write. I'm really proud he valued education — as many Reconstruction-era black folk did — and he lived to a good old age and was a revered family man. He was handsome and smartly dressed in all the photographs of him. Not bad for a man who started life as a \u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> puller (\u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> is the Hindi word for fan), fanning white people in chains.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elijah Mitchell died in 1923, during Jim Crow, when Confederate statues were going up across the South. He probably never imagined that one day his great-great grandson would recall his life story against the backdrop of those statues coming down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Michael Twitty's enslaved ancestors witnessed the Confederate general's surrender, the significance of which weaves through his new memoir as he seeks 'culinary justice' for African Americans.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Over the past few months, as the contentious ghost of Robert E. Lee galloped through the headlines, Southern food historian Michael W. Twitty's thoughts turned to the bittersweet connection his family shares with the Confederate general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On April 9, 1865, Twitty's great-great grandfather, Elijah Mitchell, and his older brother, George, happened to be on a street in the village of Appomattox Court House, Va., when General Lee, in full dress uniform, exited the McLean House after surrendering to Union General Ulysses S. Grant. It didn't take long for the two teenage lads to grasp the import of that ceremonial tableau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120375\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately.\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120375\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-160x189.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-240x283.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-375x442.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-520x613.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michael Twitty)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment, as the Confederacy's 150-year mourning period began,\" writes Twitty in his new book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Gene-Journey-African-American-Culinary/dp/0062379291\">The Cooking Gene\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, \"my great-great grandfather and his brother counted themselves among the first black people to find out that the long nightmare of American slavery — nearly three centuries in the making — was over. Their slaveholder, Blake Mitchell, immediately declared them free — even as they still held his horse in place, waiting for whatever was to come next.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twitty's prose movingly captures this momentous and profoundly personal moment and provides a glimpse of the scope and tone of his deeply researched, sometimes rambling, but altogether fascinating book that braids personal memoir, genealogy and culinary excavation to tell the story of a whole people through the lineage of their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is Twitty's flag. \"They took our names, they took our gods, they took our religion but they didn't take our food,\" he says. His aim is twofold: to puzzle out \"a recipe of who I am and where I came from,\" and, in doing so, to document how his captive ancestors radically enriched the diet of the antebellum South. They did this both through the produce — rice, okra, peanuts, cowpeas — that came with them on those slave ships from Africa, and through their skills in creating an \"edible jazz\" of barbecue, fried chicken, jambalaya, feijoada, spicy peanut stews, crispy okra, rice pudding and innumerable other dishes from their impoverished pantries. They were exemplars of farm-to-table and nose-to-tail cooking long before these hip terms were even coined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Twitty's percussive phrase, the \"enslaved enslaved the palate of those who enslaved them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, as the vexed debate over Confederate monuments \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/08/16/us/confederate-monuments-removed.html?_r=0\">consumes the country\u003c/a>, Twitty's book makes for important reading. Food historians like Twitty, much like the groups rallying for and against the monuments, are enjoined in the battle of memory — in Twitty's case, the memory of who \"owns\" Southern food, and what role African Americans have in that commemoration. Twitty's frontline may be the kitchen rather than the traffic circle, but his subject is as viscerally intertwined with race as any Confederate monument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our influence across the South,\" he writes, \"conquered more territory than any Confederate army ever managed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ringing statement, for which unwitting support can be found from no less than the \u003cem>beau ideal\u003c/em> of the Confederacy. Lee, who loved his black cook's fried chicken, \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/making-sense-of-robert-e-lee-85017563/\">once said\u003c/a> that all he wanted was \"a Virginia farm — no end of cream and fresh butter — and fried chicken. Not one fried chicken or two — but unlimited fried chicken.\" Moreover, during the Union blockade, when the South faced starvation, Lee praised the cowpea (also called black-eyed pea or cornfield pea) as \"the only unfailing friend the Confederacy ever had.\" Ironically, it was the humble West African cowpea and the African peanut that kept Southerners fed when bread was scarce. \"Living proof that African civilization was part and parcel of Southern existence,\" says Twitty. \"They couldn't do it without us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Twitty's projects is his \"Southern Discomfort Tour\" — a journey through the \"forgotten little Africa\" of the Old South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter\": He picks cotton, chops wood, works in rice fields and cooks for audiences in plantation kitchens while dressed in slave clothing to recreate what his ancestors had to endure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120378\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 341px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png\" alt='Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\"' width=\"341\" height=\"454\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120378\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png 341w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-240x320.png 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 341px) 100vw, 341px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Corey H. Weierke)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On one such trip to Virginia, Twitty cooked at Lee's birth home, Stratford Hall, an imposing brick manor with a commanding view of the Potomac. He says:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a big, old, cavernous kitchen. You could roast a whole ox in the fireplace if you wanted. The floor is all brick, so the cook could use the entire surface of the floor as a range. That brick floor will make your back ache and your feet feel like cement at the end of the day. Here I was, roasting chickens, making persimmon pudding, hot rolls, rabbit stew, oysters, and the light kept changing and getting darker and darker and the pots felt heavier and heavier. I'm in my interpreter's clothing — trousers, waistcoat, long shirt, kerchief — and caught between humidity and a December chill and it was the first time I really connected with the idea that not only was this not easy — it was tortuous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there were the guests. A woman from the United Daughters of the Confederacy chose to pivot from an uncomfortable discussion on slavery to Stratford Hall's architectural details. The Daughters then went upstairs, and in Twitty's \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhxjC3XX54g\">incredulous words\u003c/a>, \"wept over the crib of Robert E. Lee and prayed over it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment,\" he says, \"I had to run, I had to go, I felt I might have a one-man slave revolt.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On another occasion, at a South Carolina plantation, when an elderly German observed that America needed to deal with slavery like Germany had dealt with the Holocaust, the room of older white Southerners cleared out. \"They couldn't take it,\" Twitty \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYE0dG80JTw&t=1844s\">said in an interview\u003c/a>. \"They were there for us to be happy and cook and create wonderful smells in the kitchen. I'm not indicting them — they were older, probably the same age as the German man, but fed completely different messages of power, race, identity and truth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those messages also fueled the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KosherSoul/status/900570816487849984\">fusillade of tweets\u003c/a> that Twitty directed at President Donald Trump in response to the latter's tweet that removing statues was like ripping apart the country's history and culture. But Twitty also cautions that while toppling statues may be exhilarating, it may also be a simplistic show of justice. \"In my former town, Rockville, Maryland, they covered up the statue in honor of the Confederate solider the first time this debate had cultural currency,\" he says. \"And guess what? Systemic racism still exists. Honestly, maybe we should reverse it. It feels like we are eating the icing before the cake. Fight and demolish systemic racism and micro-aggressions and then celebrate by removing symbols of the old guard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seeking \"culinary justice\" for African Americans is Twitty's contribution to this long fight. It's what propels his blog, \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria.com\u003c/a>, what made him object to an article hailing a Southern white chef for \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2016/03/23/dear-sean-we-need-to-talk/\">\"discovering\"\u003c/a> the African roots of Southern cuisine; and what prompted him to write an \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2013/06/25/an-open-letter-to-paula-deen/\">open letter\u003c/a> to Georgia chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/06/27/196133579/racial-slur-puts-paula-deens-empire-at-risk\">Paula Deen\u003c/a> — he calls her \"a cousin, not a combatant\" — inviting her to discuss race over a shared meal at a plantation. \"The South,\" he wrote, \"isn't the birthplace or the natural home of America's racism. It has changed in many ways for the better, but now we have politicians and legislators trying to reverse the clock because they were horrified that a Black man got into the Oval Office. So we have a lot of work to do. I will sit anybody down at the same table, but they have to be willing to not go back to the patterns of the past. \u003cem>Sankofa \u003c/em>— in the words of my Akan ancestors: take the good from the past and move forward.\" His letter went viral, but Deen didn't respond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who is black, gay and Jewish, Twitty is emblematic of everything neo-Nazis rail against. His calm retort is that \"America is the only place on earth where I'm possible, and that is the dirty little secret behind these hate groups. They are here to take away the possibilities that America the Ideal represents.\" Undeterred by the Charlottesville riot, Twitty will soon \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritageharvestfestival.com/speakers/michael-w-twitty/\">be there\u003c/a>, cooking at the Monticello kitchen where Thomas Jefferson's enslaved \u003cem>chef de cuisine\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/17/449447335/behind-the-founding-foodie-a-french-trained-chef-bound-by-slavery\">James Hemings\u003c/a> once turned out gourmet confections. Hemings' legacy is as important to him as that of Elijah Mitchell, his great-great grandfather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened to young Elijah? \"He got land from the Mitchells after being a free hand for a while and a domestic,\" says Twitty. \"He married twice and taught his wife and children to read and write. I'm really proud he valued education — as many Reconstruction-era black folk did — and he lived to a good old age and was a revered family man. He was handsome and smartly dressed in all the photographs of him. Not bad for a man who started life as a \u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> puller (\u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> is the Hindi word for fan), fanning white people in chains.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elijah Mitchell died in 1923, during Jim Crow, when Confederate statues were going up across the South. He probably never imagined that one day his great-great grandson would recall his life story against the backdrop of those statues coming down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Rise Of Mock Meat: How Its Story Reflects America's Ever-Changing Values",
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"content": "\u003cp>Monday is Labor Day — the last hurrah of grilling for much of America. And at many of these summertime cookouts, you'll find veggie burgers alongside (or instead of) the traditional beef and brats. Whether for health, environmental or ethical reasons, more people are tossing veggie burgers on the grill — even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/08/14/212024490/even-carnivores-are-putting-more-fake-meat-on-their-plates\">carnivores\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's mock meats are getting \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/21/482322571/silicon-valley-s-bloody-plant-burger-smells-tastes-and-sizzles-like-meat\">closer and closer\u003c/a> to the taste and texture of the real thing. But as more Americans embrace these next-generation veggie burgers, we can't help but wonder — where did veggie burgers come from in the first place?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For early vegetarians, the lack of a meaty veggie burger with decent char wasn't just because our forebears hadn't mastered isolating wheat gluten and pea protein. It was ideological.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Through the 1850s and 1860s, vegetarian food is purposely plain,\" explains Pennsylvania's Marywood University historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.marywood.edu/socsci/faculty/facdisplay.html?id=abc29fc7-9ef0-4d16-9bb2-9198aaebbbd1\">Adam Shprintzen\u003c/a>, who traced the history of early American vegetarianism in his book \u003ca href=\"https://www.uncpress.org/book/9781469626529/the-vegetarian-crusade/\">\u003cem>The Vegetarian Crusade\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Part of the reason they're avoiding meat is the fear of overstimulation,\" he says. \"Health reformers were afraid of blackening food with pepper and other spices that were thought to overtax the system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the mid-19th century, when the \u003ca href=\"https://ivu.org/history/societies/americanvs.html\">American Vegetarian Society\u003c/a> formed, fare wasn't much more extravagant than boiled vegetables, coarse wheat breads and custards. But toward the end of the century, the food started to change, Shprintzen notes, in a way that mirrored the change in vegetarianism itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The push towards mock meat really represents a push in the nature of vegetarianism,\" he says. \"It tries to realign vegetarianism away from radical politics, and toward using vegetarianism as a vehicle for success — reform for the benefit of the individual, rather than social reform.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A broader approach to wellness\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Against this backdrop, it's no surprise that the first commercial mock meat came out of one of the most famous destinations for personal health of that era — Michigan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagebattlecreek.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=95&Itemid=73\">Battle Creek Sanitarium\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.howardmarkel.com/\">Howard Markel\u003c/a> became well-versed in the intricacies of the sanitarium when he dug into the history of the men behind it for his book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/216458/the-kelloggs-by-howard-markel/9780307907271/\">\u003cem>The Kelloggs: The Battling Brothers of Battle Creek\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. And yes, we're talking \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">\u003cem>those \u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">Kelloggs\u003c/a>. Although the name is now synonymous with breakfast, their original mission was to take a broader approach to wellness, with a retreat founded on their Seventh-Day Adventist health principles — a vegetarian diet, with days full of exercise (and sans tobacco and alcohol).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many guests of the Battle Creek Sanitarium signed up for the program because of dyspepsia — aka heartburn, indigestion, bloat and other such digestive unpleasantness. And Markel says it's not surprising, given the diet of the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They ate a lot of cured salted meats simmering in fatty gravy, a lot of butter, a lot of fried foods, a lot of sugar — and washed it down with a lot of alcohol.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Dr. John Harvey Kellogg's vegetarianism was inspired by his faith, the prevalence of indigestion (Walt Whitman called it \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/30/books/walt-whitman-promoted-a-paleo-diet-who-knew.html?mcubz=3\">the great American evil\u003c/a>\") gave Kellogg's clean eating a toehold in the wider culture, as the sanitarium drew guests such as women's and civil rights activist Sojourner Truth, pilot Amelia Earhart and \u003cem>Tarzan\u003c/em> actor Johnny Weismuller. In addition to health treatments, guests dined on then-revolutionary dishes like those containing soy milk or probiotics, flaked whole grain cereals ... and mock meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The doctor, as part of his own research, had a food lab,\" explains Markel. He, his wife, and his brother began to experiment with nut-based mock meats. And, according to the notebooks, there were \u003cem>a lot\u003c/em> of experiments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It didn't hold together, or there wasn't enough gluten, or they found boiling them at too high a temperature made them taste acrid or sour. Sometimes they even measured barometric pressure,\" laughs Markel. \"Like Edison, that's classic 19th century invention — you just try a million things until it worked. John Harvey Kellogg was exactly that type of inventor, but his lab was a kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all this tinkering, the Kelloggs came out with mock meats formed from a mix of nuts and gluten. Their first success was Protose — Kellogg claimed that the product \"resembles potted veal or chicken. It has a distinctly meaty odor and flavor. When a bit is torn off and chewed, it shows a distinct fiber. It is of such consistency that it may be masticated like tender meat and when cooked retains its form as does meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may have been a bit of an exaggeration — by all accounts, Protose tastes like, well, peanuts. And gluten. But it was protein-filled (or, to use the parlance of the time, blood-building), palatable, and, most importantly, had a monopoly in the mock-meat market. Kellogg served it to guests, and also sold cans via mail order — Markel estimates that at their height, annual sales of mock meat totaled over one million dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To boost popularity, Battle Creek produced recipe catalogues explaining how to make a delicious mushroom gravy for Protose, or to serve it to taste just like veal or chicken. Later products included veggie hot dogs, as well as \"skallops\" and other mock meats — although, Markel notes, \"They were all made out of the same thing, just shaped differently. There are only so many nuts, and so many things you can do with gluten.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other products followed suit in that era, mostly also from Adventist-affiliated corporations following a similar model of canned mock meat. For a while, that was pretty much the entirety of the mock-meat industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The new vegetarian movement\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/about/\">Paul Swanson\u003c/a>, an intellectual property litigator with a special interest in food, dug into \u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/2016/06/20/patenting-the-quest-for-a-more-perfect-veggie-burger/\">patent history\u003c/a> to track the evolution of veggie burgers. After the initial spate of Protose-inspired mock-meat development, he says, the scene was fairly quiet (save for the mid-century development of Bac-O Bits, which are arguably more of a salad condiment than full-fledged meat substitute). But then, as the natural foods movement, countercultural resistance and other social movements took hold, eating habits similarly began to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go into the 70s, and there's a newfound movement for vegetarianism,\" Swanson observes. \"You then have the second wave of innovation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Products like \u003ca href=\"http://www.gardenburger.com/\">Gardenburger\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftheinz-foodservice.com/en/productsandbrands/meats/boca/products\">Boca Burger\u003c/a> were developed, and began to spread across the country. These veggie patties not only tasted better than their turn-of-the-century forebears — they also ditched the cans, showing up in the freezer section.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Product placement is really important — if they want to be thought of as fresh, there's a psychology thing going on,\" acknowledges Swanson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these patties were sold closer to the frozen beef burgers, the second wave of mock meat was still mostly for vegetarians, or those steering clear of saturated fats (these were the days before Meatless Mondays.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on today's grills, we'll find something that's more like a third wave of veggie burgers, engineered to be more like meat than could have been conceived in the basement health-food stores of the 1980s (or the Kellogg labs of a century prior). According to Swanson, the novelty is no longer in the processing, but in the materials themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The recent patents are more about the composition. Things that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/02/11/514544431/saving-the-planet-one-burger-at-a-time-this-juicy-patty-is-meat-free\">bleed\u003c/a> ... they're doing so much work tearing apart and putting together plant matter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike the early religiously affiliated mock-meat producers, or the second-wave countercultural companies like Oregon's Gardenburger, some of these third-wave veggie burger makers (unsurprisingly) come out of Silicon Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegetarians (or omnivores) who toss a veggie burger on the grill this weekend may be looking for a modern \"disruption\" of the meat industry — either for health, environmental or ethical concerns. Or they might just be wanting a delicious summer cookout. And they can achieve their tasty goal with a just-developed can't-believe-it's-not-meat creation, or the current iteration of the classic second-wave burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although sadly, not with Protose — the last cans stopped production after just about a century. But thanks to those pioneers, the modern-day bearers of the mock-meat torch can be found at pretty much any neighborhood grocery store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Deena Prichep is a freelance print and radio journalist based in Portland, Ore.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Summer's coming to an end, and whether for health or ethical reasons, more people are flipping veggie burgers — which have come a long way since the sanitarium-created concoctions of the 19th century.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Monday is Labor Day — the last hurrah of grilling for much of America. And at many of these summertime cookouts, you'll find veggie burgers alongside (or instead of) the traditional beef and brats. Whether for health, environmental or ethical reasons, more people are tossing veggie burgers on the grill — even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/08/14/212024490/even-carnivores-are-putting-more-fake-meat-on-their-plates\">carnivores\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's mock meats are getting \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/21/482322571/silicon-valley-s-bloody-plant-burger-smells-tastes-and-sizzles-like-meat\">closer and closer\u003c/a> to the taste and texture of the real thing. But as more Americans embrace these next-generation veggie burgers, we can't help but wonder — where did veggie burgers come from in the first place?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For early vegetarians, the lack of a meaty veggie burger with decent char wasn't just because our forebears hadn't mastered isolating wheat gluten and pea protein. It was ideological.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Through the 1850s and 1860s, vegetarian food is purposely plain,\" explains Pennsylvania's Marywood University historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.marywood.edu/socsci/faculty/facdisplay.html?id=abc29fc7-9ef0-4d16-9bb2-9198aaebbbd1\">Adam Shprintzen\u003c/a>, who traced the history of early American vegetarianism in his book \u003ca href=\"https://www.uncpress.org/book/9781469626529/the-vegetarian-crusade/\">\u003cem>The Vegetarian Crusade\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Part of the reason they're avoiding meat is the fear of overstimulation,\" he says. \"Health reformers were afraid of blackening food with pepper and other spices that were thought to overtax the system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the mid-19th century, when the \u003ca href=\"https://ivu.org/history/societies/americanvs.html\">American Vegetarian Society\u003c/a> formed, fare wasn't much more extravagant than boiled vegetables, coarse wheat breads and custards. But toward the end of the century, the food started to change, Shprintzen notes, in a way that mirrored the change in vegetarianism itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The push towards mock meat really represents a push in the nature of vegetarianism,\" he says. \"It tries to realign vegetarianism away from radical politics, and toward using vegetarianism as a vehicle for success — reform for the benefit of the individual, rather than social reform.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A broader approach to wellness\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Against this backdrop, it's no surprise that the first commercial mock meat came out of one of the most famous destinations for personal health of that era — Michigan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagebattlecreek.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=95&Itemid=73\">Battle Creek Sanitarium\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historian \u003ca href=\"http://www.howardmarkel.com/\">Howard Markel\u003c/a> became well-versed in the intricacies of the sanitarium when he dug into the history of the men behind it for his book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/216458/the-kelloggs-by-howard-markel/9780307907271/\">\u003cem>The Kelloggs: The Battling Brothers of Battle Creek\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. And yes, we're talking \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">\u003cem>those \u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/08/542145177/how-the-battling-kellogg-brothers-revolutionized-american-breakfast\">Kelloggs\u003c/a>. Although the name is now synonymous with breakfast, their original mission was to take a broader approach to wellness, with a retreat founded on their Seventh-Day Adventist health principles — a vegetarian diet, with days full of exercise (and sans tobacco and alcohol).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many guests of the Battle Creek Sanitarium signed up for the program because of dyspepsia — aka heartburn, indigestion, bloat and other such digestive unpleasantness. And Markel says it's not surprising, given the diet of the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They ate a lot of cured salted meats simmering in fatty gravy, a lot of butter, a lot of fried foods, a lot of sugar — and washed it down with a lot of alcohol.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although Dr. John Harvey Kellogg's vegetarianism was inspired by his faith, the prevalence of indigestion (Walt Whitman called it \"\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/30/books/walt-whitman-promoted-a-paleo-diet-who-knew.html?mcubz=3\">the great American evil\u003c/a>\") gave Kellogg's clean eating a toehold in the wider culture, as the sanitarium drew guests such as women's and civil rights activist Sojourner Truth, pilot Amelia Earhart and \u003cem>Tarzan\u003c/em> actor Johnny Weismuller. In addition to health treatments, guests dined on then-revolutionary dishes like those containing soy milk or probiotics, flaked whole grain cereals ... and mock meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The doctor, as part of his own research, had a food lab,\" explains Markel. He, his wife, and his brother began to experiment with nut-based mock meats. And, according to the notebooks, there were \u003cem>a lot\u003c/em> of experiments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It didn't hold together, or there wasn't enough gluten, or they found boiling them at too high a temperature made them taste acrid or sour. Sometimes they even measured barometric pressure,\" laughs Markel. \"Like Edison, that's classic 19th century invention — you just try a million things until it worked. John Harvey Kellogg was exactly that type of inventor, but his lab was a kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all this tinkering, the Kelloggs came out with mock meats formed from a mix of nuts and gluten. Their first success was Protose — Kellogg claimed that the product \"resembles potted veal or chicken. It has a distinctly meaty odor and flavor. When a bit is torn off and chewed, it shows a distinct fiber. It is of such consistency that it may be masticated like tender meat and when cooked retains its form as does meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This may have been a bit of an exaggeration — by all accounts, Protose tastes like, well, peanuts. And gluten. But it was protein-filled (or, to use the parlance of the time, blood-building), palatable, and, most importantly, had a monopoly in the mock-meat market. Kellogg served it to guests, and also sold cans via mail order — Markel estimates that at their height, annual sales of mock meat totaled over one million dollars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To boost popularity, Battle Creek produced recipe catalogues explaining how to make a delicious mushroom gravy for Protose, or to serve it to taste just like veal or chicken. Later products included veggie hot dogs, as well as \"skallops\" and other mock meats — although, Markel notes, \"They were all made out of the same thing, just shaped differently. There are only so many nuts, and so many things you can do with gluten.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other products followed suit in that era, mostly also from Adventist-affiliated corporations following a similar model of canned mock meat. For a while, that was pretty much the entirety of the mock-meat industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The new vegetarian movement\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/about/\">Paul Swanson\u003c/a>, an intellectual property litigator with a special interest in food, dug into \u003ca href=\"http://www.earthandtablelawreporter.com/2016/06/20/patenting-the-quest-for-a-more-perfect-veggie-burger/\">patent history\u003c/a> to track the evolution of veggie burgers. After the initial spate of Protose-inspired mock-meat development, he says, the scene was fairly quiet (save for the mid-century development of Bac-O Bits, which are arguably more of a salad condiment than full-fledged meat substitute). But then, as the natural foods movement, countercultural resistance and other social movements took hold, eating habits similarly began to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You go into the 70s, and there's a newfound movement for vegetarianism,\" Swanson observes. \"You then have the second wave of innovation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Products like \u003ca href=\"http://www.gardenburger.com/\">Gardenburger\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftheinz-foodservice.com/en/productsandbrands/meats/boca/products\">Boca Burger\u003c/a> were developed, and began to spread across the country. These veggie patties not only tasted better than their turn-of-the-century forebears — they also ditched the cans, showing up in the freezer section.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Product placement is really important — if they want to be thought of as fresh, there's a psychology thing going on,\" acknowledges Swanson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these patties were sold closer to the frozen beef burgers, the second wave of mock meat was still mostly for vegetarians, or those steering clear of saturated fats (these were the days before Meatless Mondays.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on today's grills, we'll find something that's more like a third wave of veggie burgers, engineered to be more like meat than could have been conceived in the basement health-food stores of the 1980s (or the Kellogg labs of a century prior). According to Swanson, the novelty is no longer in the processing, but in the materials themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The recent patents are more about the composition. Things that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/02/11/514544431/saving-the-planet-one-burger-at-a-time-this-juicy-patty-is-meat-free\">bleed\u003c/a> ... they're doing so much work tearing apart and putting together plant matter.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike the early religiously affiliated mock-meat producers, or the second-wave countercultural companies like Oregon's Gardenburger, some of these third-wave veggie burger makers (unsurprisingly) come out of Silicon Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vegetarians (or omnivores) who toss a veggie burger on the grill this weekend may be looking for a modern \"disruption\" of the meat industry — either for health, environmental or ethical concerns. Or they might just be wanting a delicious summer cookout. And they can achieve their tasty goal with a just-developed can't-believe-it's-not-meat creation, or the current iteration of the classic second-wave burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although sadly, not with Protose — the last cans stopped production after just about a century. But thanks to those pioneers, the modern-day bearers of the mock-meat torch can be found at pretty much any neighborhood grocery store.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Deena Prichep is a freelance print and radio journalist based in Portland, Ore.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Labor Day Recipe: Summer Sweet Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté with Lemon and Fresh Herbs",
"title": "Labor Day Recipe: Summer Sweet Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté with Lemon and Fresh Herbs",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe video by Vic Chin.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year we finally planted our first real vegetable garden, since we now live in a place that is warm enough to have a real vegetable garden. Every day my daughter is out there foraging for whatever looks yummy and ripe—raspberries, lettuce, celery, potatoes, and more—because there really is nothing like a just-picked vegetable or fruit. Things my daughter thought she didn’t like (lettuce, go figure) she loves from our garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the best things we planted was green beans, and she’s become a pro at picking them. I even bought her her very own teeny gardening shears so she can cut (as opposed to rip) the tender veggies from the vine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, of course, there are the tomatoes. Living in San Francisco, we tried every year to grow tomatoes and really only managed to succeed with cherry tomatoes (which felt like a victory!). But now we have an entire raised bed devoted to 6 different varieties. Of course, we will always include a cherry tomato plant, because those are the most easy to pop into your mouth whenever you see a ripe one. But, as anyone who grows cherry tomatoes (or any tomatoes) knows, all of a sudden they will ripen and you’ll become overwhelmed by them. So I’m always looking for new, tasty ways to use them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This corn, green bean, and cherry tomato combo is my go-to summer sauté. I make it at least once a week, if not more, when all these summer veggies are in season. It’s a super versatile side because the sweet-tangy flavor is terrific alongside roasted or \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/01/labor-day-recipe-easy-grilled-boneless-chicken-breasts-with-herb-garlic-lemon-vinaigrette/\">grilled chicken\u003c/a>, grilled or baked \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/01/an-end-of-summer-celebration-how-to-roast-a-whole-salmon/\">salmon\u003c/a> fillets, a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/24/memorial-day-bbq-simply-awesome-grilled-bone-in-ribeye-steak/\">gorgeous grilled steak\u003c/a>, or atop creamy or grilled polenta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make it vegan, simply omit the butter. Feel free to swap out sugar snap peas for the green beans, or play with the herbs you have growing in your own garden. It’s lovely with basil, oregano, thyme or all of them combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120283\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120283\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 lb green beans, trimmed and halved crosswise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ears fresh corn, shucked\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups halved sweet cherry tomatoes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp chopped thyme, parsley, marjoram, basil, and/or oregano\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp unsalted butter (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120286\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme.jpg\" alt=\"Chop thyme along with other fresh herbs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120286\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chop thyme along with other fresh herbs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>To blanch the green beans, fill a mixing bowl with ice and cold water to create an ice bath. Bring a saucepan half filled with salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the green beans. Cook until just crisp-tender, then drain in a colander and transfer to the ice bath. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120267\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Bring a saucepan half filled with salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the green beans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120267\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bring a saucepan half filled with salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the green beans. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120269\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer.jpg\" alt=\"Cook green beans until just crisp-tender, then drain in a colander.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120269\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook green beans until just crisp-tender, then drain in a colander. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120282\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans.jpg\" alt=\"Transfer green beans to the ice bath.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120282\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Transfer green beans to the ice bath. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>To cut the kernels off the cob, snap or cut the cob in half crosswise. Stand the cob on the flat end, and, using a sharp knife, cut down the side of the cob to remove the kernels.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1.jpg\" alt=\"To cut the kernels off the cob, snap or cut the cob in half crosswise.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120275\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To cut the kernels off the cob, snap or cut the cob in half crosswise. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120276\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn.jpg\" alt=\"Stand the cob on the flat end, and, using a sharp knife, cut down the side of the cob to remove the kernels.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120276\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stand the cob on the flat end, and, using a sharp knife, cut down the side of the cob to remove the kernels. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the corn, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the corn is just barely tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the green beans (remove any ice cubes) and add to the corn mixture along with the lemon juice and butter, if using. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120274\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn.jpg\" alt=\"In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the corn.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120274\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the corn. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1.jpg\" alt=\"Add the tomatoes, fresh herbs, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the corn is just barely tender, about 3 minutes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120288\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the tomatoes, fresh herbs, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the corn is just barely tender, about 3 minutes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120272\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2.jpg\" alt=\"Drain the green beans (remove any ice cubes) and add to the corn mixture along with the lemon juice and butter, if using. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120272\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Drain the green beans (remove any ice cubes) and add to the corn mixture along with the lemon juice and butter, if using. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120285\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir.jpg\" alt=\"Cook, stirring, until the mixture is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook, stirring, until the mixture is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120281\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3.jpg\" alt=\"Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120281\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serve the Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté hot or at room temperature. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "This sweet-tart veggie combination is a summertime winner. It’s great as a vegetarian main dish served over grilled polenta, or as a side dish for grilled salmon, chicken, or steak.",
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"description": "This sweet-tart veggie combination is a summertime winner. It’s great as a vegetarian main dish served over grilled polenta, or as a side dish for grilled salmon, chicken, or steak.",
"title": "Labor Day Recipe: Summer Sweet Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté with Lemon and Fresh Herbs | KQED",
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"headline": "Labor Day Recipe: Summer Sweet Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté with Lemon and Fresh Herbs",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe video by Vic Chin.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year we finally planted our first real vegetable garden, since we now live in a place that is warm enough to have a real vegetable garden. Every day my daughter is out there foraging for whatever looks yummy and ripe—raspberries, lettuce, celery, potatoes, and more—because there really is nothing like a just-picked vegetable or fruit. Things my daughter thought she didn’t like (lettuce, go figure) she loves from our garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the best things we planted was green beans, and she’s become a pro at picking them. I even bought her her very own teeny gardening shears so she can cut (as opposed to rip) the tender veggies from the vine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, of course, there are the tomatoes. Living in San Francisco, we tried every year to grow tomatoes and really only managed to succeed with cherry tomatoes (which felt like a victory!). But now we have an entire raised bed devoted to 6 different varieties. Of course, we will always include a cherry tomato plant, because those are the most easy to pop into your mouth whenever you see a ripe one. But, as anyone who grows cherry tomatoes (or any tomatoes) knows, all of a sudden they will ripen and you’ll become overwhelmed by them. So I’m always looking for new, tasty ways to use them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This corn, green bean, and cherry tomato combo is my go-to summer sauté. I make it at least once a week, if not more, when all these summer veggies are in season. It’s a super versatile side because the sweet-tangy flavor is terrific alongside roasted or \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/01/labor-day-recipe-easy-grilled-boneless-chicken-breasts-with-herb-garlic-lemon-vinaigrette/\">grilled chicken\u003c/a>, grilled or baked \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/01/an-end-of-summer-celebration-how-to-roast-a-whole-salmon/\">salmon\u003c/a> fillets, a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/24/memorial-day-bbq-simply-awesome-grilled-bone-in-ribeye-steak/\">gorgeous grilled steak\u003c/a>, or atop creamy or grilled polenta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make it vegan, simply omit the butter. Feel free to swap out sugar snap peas for the green beans, or play with the herbs you have growing in your own garden. It’s lovely with basil, oregano, thyme or all of them combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120283\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120283\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ingredients-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ingredients for Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1 lb green beans, trimmed and halved crosswise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ears fresh corn, shucked\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups halved sweet cherry tomatoes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp chopped thyme, parsley, marjoram, basil, and/or oregano\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp unsalted butter (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120286\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme.jpg\" alt=\"Chop thyme along with other fresh herbs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120286\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-thyme-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chop thyme along with other fresh herbs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>To blanch the green beans, fill a mixing bowl with ice and cold water to create an ice bath. Bring a saucepan half filled with salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the green beans. Cook until just crisp-tender, then drain in a colander and transfer to the ice bath. Set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120267\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot.jpg\" alt=\"Bring a saucepan half filled with salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the green beans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120267\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-pot-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bring a saucepan half filled with salted water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the green beans. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120269\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer.jpg\" alt=\"Cook green beans until just crisp-tender, then drain in a colander.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120269\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans-strainer-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook green beans until just crisp-tender, then drain in a colander. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120282\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans.jpg\" alt=\"Transfer green beans to the ice bath.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120282\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-ice-beans-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Transfer green beans to the ice bath. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>To cut the kernels off the cob, snap or cut the cob in half crosswise. Stand the cob on the flat end, and, using a sharp knife, cut down the side of the cob to remove the kernels.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1.jpg\" alt=\"To cut the kernels off the cob, snap or cut the cob in half crosswise.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120275\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To cut the kernels off the cob, snap or cut the cob in half crosswise. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120276\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn.jpg\" alt=\"Stand the cob on the flat end, and, using a sharp knife, cut down the side of the cob to remove the kernels.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120276\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-cut-corn-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stand the cob on the flat end, and, using a sharp knife, cut down the side of the cob to remove the kernels. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cli>In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the corn, tomatoes, fresh herbs, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the corn is just barely tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the green beans (remove any ice cubes) and add to the corn mixture along with the lemon juice and butter, if using. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120274\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn.jpg\" alt=\"In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the corn.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120274\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-corn-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In a large frying pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the corn. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120288\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1.jpg\" alt=\"Add the tomatoes, fresh herbs, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the corn is just barely tender, about 3 minutes.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120288\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-tomatoes1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the tomatoes, fresh herbs, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the corn is just barely tender, about 3 minutes. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120272\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2.jpg\" alt=\"Drain the green beans (remove any ice cubes) and add to the corn mixture along with the lemon juice and butter, if using. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120272\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-beans2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Drain the green beans (remove any ice cubes) and add to the corn mixture along with the lemon juice and butter, if using. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120285\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir.jpg\" alt=\"Cook, stirring, until the mixture is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-stir-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook, stirring, until the mixture is warmed through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120281\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3.jpg\" alt=\"Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120281\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/veg-saute-final3-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serve the Corn, Green Bean, and Cherry Tomato Sauté hot or at room temperature. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Aquaponics Farmers Band Together to Set Their Industry Apart",
"title": "Aquaponics Farmers Band Together to Set Their Industry Apart",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>Growers that add fish to their vegetable mix say they're combining the benefits of an ecosystem with the resource-efficiency of an water-based operation.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimberly Aney, a recent graduate of the agriculture program at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cobleskill.edu/home.asp\">SUNY Cobleskill\u003c/a> in Upstate New York, has dreams of building a small farm that grows fish and lettuce in concert with one another. She says she sees the practice, known as aquaponics, as a cheap, clean, and compact alternative to the inefficiencies she observed on the dairy farm on which she grew up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In southern Oregon, Michael Hasey extends the growing season of his 40-acre organic farm with an aquaponics system that produces greens and tilapia throughout the winter. It’s a way to squeak out an extra margin, rest his fields, and, he believes, improve both his own soil and the environment at large.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, in New Orleans, Marianne Cufone uses her in-ground aquaponics system—in which ponds full of fish provide nutrients for the trays of herbs, cucumbers, and melons floating above them, and vice versa—partly as an educational tool. She wants more people to know about the myriad benefits she’s reaped while farming this way: about the hyper-local crops, the reliable fresh food in flood-prone regions, and the minimal waste inherent in the system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg\" alt=\"Diagram courtesy of Aquaponics Phillipines.\" width=\"768\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-375x326.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-520x452.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diagram courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://aquaponicsphilippines.com/\">Aquaponics Phillipines.\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike modern hydroponic farms, which can feed plants regular quantities of synthetic fertilizers, aquaponics harks back to early growing methods developed in Asia and South America that blend aquaculture (or fish farming) with agriculture. The practice functions in an ecosystem in which the fish eat things like duckweed and, when they’re housed outside, insects; their waste feeds the plants; and the plants filter the water for the fish. Any remaining waste is composted and, as in the case of Hasey’s farm, added back to the soil in which he grows his row crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone also has a larger goal. What began as a community-based mission has expanded into a national effort as she seeks to drum up awareness about aquaponic farming in her role as executive director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.recirculatingfarms.org/\">Recirculating Farms Coalition\u003c/a> (RFC), and to mobilize other farmers using the technology to become more vocal about its virtues and its future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, though, she has to find them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120331\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg\" alt=\"Marianne Cufone.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marianne Cufone. \u003ccite>(Dulce Fernandes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Even though [aquaponic farmers] have been operating in the U.S. for more than 30 years, we don’t have a good count,” Cufone says. That applies both to commercial operations such as Hasey’s that sell to regional supermarkets and also to backyard, or “recreational,” farms like the one Aney would like to set up. The latter are especially difficult to track. RFC wants to see aquaculture acknowledged as a positive addition to American agriculture and thereby boost its lobbying power. Haney, an RFC member, calls aquaponics, “the answer” to generating year-round income for farmers constrained by the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone is currently working on a map of the larger outfits, and reaching out to organizations that keep track of the smaller ones. So far, estimates put the number of commercial aquafarms operating nationally at between 40 and 100, although Cufone says it’s likely higher if one includes backyard operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone’s work comes at a critical juncture for American aquaculture. For over a decade, the USDA Organic label, through some third-party licensing organizations like Oregon Tilth, has been conferred upon compliant aquaponic and hydroponic farms. Recently, traditional “dirt first” organic farmers have been pushing the USDA’s National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) to make aquaponics and hydroponics ineligible for the Organic label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some opposed to the change, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/13/why-you-cant-have-organic-food-without-soil/\">such as Maine farmer and author Eliot Coleman\u003c/a>, say that food that isn’t grown in “biologically active, fertile soil” doesn’t deserve to use the moniker for which generations of farmers have built up a market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest targets of some dirt-first lobbyists is scaled-up operations that raise hydroponic produce in places like Mexico. They say these vast international operations siphon off revenue from American farmers as they drive down the price of organics. Aquaponic farmers, who claim to use best organic practices and challenge the assertion that their farms do not give back directly to the soil, may be caught in the crossfire of a bigger, thornier debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Aquaponic farmers employ microbiology in their systems, in the same way dirt farmers do, and the waste [from it] builds beautiful topsoil,” says Hasey. In the process, “We grow copious amounts of food without taxing the land. It’s incredibly sustainable.” Sustainability is also Cufone’s virtue of choice when discussing aquaponics—both for lowering water and energy usage in produce growing as well as for raising fish. Cufone began her career in fisheries management and has seen aquaponics develop to the point where she thinks it now provides a viable, clean way for fishermen to grow some of the protein they can no longer catch in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ecowatch.com/one-third-of-commercial-fish-stocks-fished-at-unsustainable-levels-1910593830.html\">depleted oceans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stacy Tollefson is a professor of agricultural and biosystems engineering at the University of Arizona. Along with Cufone, she was part of the most recent task force advising NOSB on the organic certification of aquaponic and hydroponic farms. The way she sees it, what organics-seeking consumers want most of all is pesticide-free produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And water-based systems “open the doors to more people getting access to that,” she says. “The traditional agriculture approach says organics have to be grown in soil—but that was when there was no other way to do it. There are still old-school philosophical folks who say, ‘You’re not saving the soil!’ But I think we are doing a lot to \u003cem>not\u003c/em> damage the earth.” (The dirt first response to this: That still doesn’t mean it fits the historical definition of \u003cem>organic\u003c/em>; they’re contemplating changing their own labeling if hydroponic and aquaponic farmers continue to be able to earn “organic” status.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone agrees with Tollefson, and also cites what she sees as another overlooked benefit to aquaponics. “The U.S. Department of Agriculture is always talking about attracting new people to farming. Well, this is one part of the industry that’s growing,” she says. She hopes RFC will play a pivotal role in bringing aquaponics further into the mainstream. “When I first learned about recirculating systems, I brought a bunch of people together in a room and had a conversation about the viability of the industry. At the end of two days I asked, ‘If you had $1 million, what would you do?’ And every one of them said, ‘Start an organization that would advertise our industry, and help change policy about it.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the six years since RFC was founded, Hasey has come to rely on it to represent him and his needs. “As a farmer, I spend all day with my head in the plants. I just don’t have time to go out and campaign and get involved in issues,” he says. Both he and Cufone hope the organization will provide their segment of the farm industry with the necessary traction to grow, and thrive.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Growers that add fish to their vegetable mix say they're combining the benefits of an ecosystem with the resource-efficiency of an water-based operation.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Growers that add fish to their vegetable mix say they're combining the benefits of an ecosystem with the resource-efficiency of an water-based operation.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kimberly Aney, a recent graduate of the agriculture program at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cobleskill.edu/home.asp\">SUNY Cobleskill\u003c/a> in Upstate New York, has dreams of building a small farm that grows fish and lettuce in concert with one another. She says she sees the practice, known as aquaponics, as a cheap, clean, and compact alternative to the inefficiencies she observed on the dairy farm on which she grew up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In southern Oregon, Michael Hasey extends the growing season of his 40-acre organic farm with an aquaponics system that produces greens and tilapia throughout the winter. It’s a way to squeak out an extra margin, rest his fields, and, he believes, improve both his own soil and the environment at large.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, in New Orleans, Marianne Cufone uses her in-ground aquaponics system—in which ponds full of fish provide nutrients for the trays of herbs, cucumbers, and melons floating above them, and vice versa—partly as an educational tool. She wants more people to know about the myriad benefits she’s reaped while farming this way: about the hyper-local crops, the reliable fresh food in flood-prone regions, and the minimal waste inherent in the system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120330\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg\" alt=\"Diagram courtesy of Aquaponics Phillipines.\" width=\"768\" height=\"668\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120330\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-160x139.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-240x209.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-375x326.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/170830-aquaponics-figure-768x668-520x452.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Diagram courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://aquaponicsphilippines.com/\">Aquaponics Phillipines.\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Unlike modern hydroponic farms, which can feed plants regular quantities of synthetic fertilizers, aquaponics harks back to early growing methods developed in Asia and South America that blend aquaculture (or fish farming) with agriculture. The practice functions in an ecosystem in which the fish eat things like duckweed and, when they’re housed outside, insects; their waste feeds the plants; and the plants filter the water for the fish. Any remaining waste is composted and, as in the case of Hasey’s farm, added back to the soil in which he grows his row crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone also has a larger goal. What began as a community-based mission has expanded into a national effort as she seeks to drum up awareness about aquaponic farming in her role as executive director of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.recirculatingfarms.org/\">Recirculating Farms Coalition\u003c/a> (RFC), and to mobilize other farmers using the technology to become more vocal about its virtues and its future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, though, she has to find them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120331\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg\" alt=\"Marianne Cufone.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/180828-aquaponic-farming-cufone-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marianne Cufone. \u003ccite>(Dulce Fernandes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Even though [aquaponic farmers] have been operating in the U.S. for more than 30 years, we don’t have a good count,” Cufone says. That applies both to commercial operations such as Hasey’s that sell to regional supermarkets and also to backyard, or “recreational,” farms like the one Aney would like to set up. The latter are especially difficult to track. RFC wants to see aquaculture acknowledged as a positive addition to American agriculture and thereby boost its lobbying power. Haney, an RFC member, calls aquaponics, “the answer” to generating year-round income for farmers constrained by the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone is currently working on a map of the larger outfits, and reaching out to organizations that keep track of the smaller ones. So far, estimates put the number of commercial aquafarms operating nationally at between 40 and 100, although Cufone says it’s likely higher if one includes backyard operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone’s work comes at a critical juncture for American aquaculture. For over a decade, the USDA Organic label, through some third-party licensing organizations like Oregon Tilth, has been conferred upon compliant aquaponic and hydroponic farms. Recently, traditional “dirt first” organic farmers have been pushing the USDA’s National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) to make aquaponics and hydroponics ineligible for the Organic label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some opposed to the change, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2015/04/13/why-you-cant-have-organic-food-without-soil/\">such as Maine farmer and author Eliot Coleman\u003c/a>, say that food that isn’t grown in “biologically active, fertile soil” doesn’t deserve to use the moniker for which generations of farmers have built up a market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the biggest targets of some dirt-first lobbyists is scaled-up operations that raise hydroponic produce in places like Mexico. They say these vast international operations siphon off revenue from American farmers as they drive down the price of organics. Aquaponic farmers, who claim to use best organic practices and challenge the assertion that their farms do not give back directly to the soil, may be caught in the crossfire of a bigger, thornier debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Aquaponic farmers employ microbiology in their systems, in the same way dirt farmers do, and the waste [from it] builds beautiful topsoil,” says Hasey. In the process, “We grow copious amounts of food without taxing the land. It’s incredibly sustainable.” Sustainability is also Cufone’s virtue of choice when discussing aquaponics—both for lowering water and energy usage in produce growing as well as for raising fish. Cufone began her career in fisheries management and has seen aquaponics develop to the point where she thinks it now provides a viable, clean way for fishermen to grow some of the protein they can no longer catch in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ecowatch.com/one-third-of-commercial-fish-stocks-fished-at-unsustainable-levels-1910593830.html\">depleted oceans\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stacy Tollefson is a professor of agricultural and biosystems engineering at the University of Arizona. Along with Cufone, she was part of the most recent task force advising NOSB on the organic certification of aquaponic and hydroponic farms. The way she sees it, what organics-seeking consumers want most of all is pesticide-free produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And water-based systems “open the doors to more people getting access to that,” she says. “The traditional agriculture approach says organics have to be grown in soil—but that was when there was no other way to do it. There are still old-school philosophical folks who say, ‘You’re not saving the soil!’ But I think we are doing a lot to \u003cem>not\u003c/em> damage the earth.” (The dirt first response to this: That still doesn’t mean it fits the historical definition of \u003cem>organic\u003c/em>; they’re contemplating changing their own labeling if hydroponic and aquaponic farmers continue to be able to earn “organic” status.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cufone agrees with Tollefson, and also cites what she sees as another overlooked benefit to aquaponics. “The U.S. Department of Agriculture is always talking about attracting new people to farming. Well, this is one part of the industry that’s growing,” she says. She hopes RFC will play a pivotal role in bringing aquaponics further into the mainstream. “When I first learned about recirculating systems, I brought a bunch of people together in a room and had a conversation about the viability of the industry. At the end of two days I asked, ‘If you had $1 million, what would you do?’ And every one of them said, ‘Start an organization that would advertise our industry, and help change policy about it.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the six years since RFC was founded, Hasey has come to rely on it to represent him and his needs. “As a farmer, I spend all day with my head in the plants. I just don’t have time to go out and campaign and get involved in issues,” he says. Both he and Cufone hope the organization will provide their segment of the farm industry with the necessary traction to grow, and thrive.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen",
"title": "Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Amid the hustle and bustle of the kitchen at Marcel's, a fine dining restaurant in Washington, D.C., one member of the staff is immune to the noise. It's David Uzzell, the 28-year-old \u003cem>saucier\u003c/em> responsible for such delicacies as pan-seared foie gras or mushroom mornay sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell is a deaf chef — a rarity in the vast majority of restaurant kitchens. When chef and owner Robert Wiedmaier needs to get Uzzell's attention while expediting during dinner service, he pokes him in the shoulder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"David gets poked a lot,\" says Wiedmaier. \"There might be a dent in his shoulder from my finger by now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not all poking, according to Uzzell. \"We've come up with some workarounds,\" he says — or writes, using one of the many notepads that are permanently kept at his station to help with more lengthy communications. Having completely lost his hearing by the time he was a year old, Uzzell is used to having to figure out how to communicate to a hearing audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've never seen somebody text so fast,\" says Wiedmaier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being hard of hearing in a busy restaurant kitchen means that Uzzell's coworkers have come up with a variety of ways to get his attention over the past few years, from laser pointers to elaborate hand signals. At the same time, Uzzell is now such a fixture in the \u003cem>brigade de cuisine\u003c/em> — the French term for the hierarchy of kitchen staff — that they sometimes forget that he's deaf at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, sous chef Chris McFayden has a tendency to just talk extra loudly to Uzzell, which the kitchen staff finds amusing — as Wiedmaier quips, \"It doesn't matter how loud you are, he still can't hear you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Uzzell's part, whether or not he can hear McFayden yelling is less about the noise and more about the lesson. \"You have to develop a thick skin,\" he says of working in a restaurant kitchen. \"You can't take criticism personally. It's not about whether or not I'm deaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In a kitchen,\" says McFayden, \"everybody tends to learn when the chef yells at somebody else for a mistake. With David, I have to remember that he's not going to hear me telling someone that they did something wrong; I'm going to have to make a point to make sure he knows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduating in 2012 from Gallaudet University, a private university for the deaf and hard of hearing in Washington, D.C., Uzzell had a degree in history but no actual work history to help him to find a job. It's a common problem in the deaf community. According to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldeafcenter.org/deaf-people-and-employment-united-states-2016\">2016 study\u003c/a> by the National Deaf Center, just 48 percent of deaf Americans, aged 21 to 64, is employed, either full or part time, as compared to 72 percent of the hearing population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend recommended that Uzzell look for work at Union Market, a popular upscale food court near Gallaudet, whose vendors catered to the nearby deaf community. Starting off as a dishwasher and working his way up through the ranks in a few professional kitchens, Uzzell arrived at Marcel's in 2014 looking for new opportunities. The fact that he was hard of hearing was not a hindrance as far as Wiedmaier was concerned, since he'd already previously employed a deaf chef at another restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottom line, says Wiedmaier, \"I couldn't have hired David if he had no taste or sense of smell. Being deaf hasn't stopped him from being a damn good chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of lip reading, writing, and hand signals has become de rigueur in the kitchen at Marcel's — but it's not always foolproof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I first started,\" recalls Uzzell, \"there were a few times when I thought Chef was asking for 'sea salt' when he was asking for 'Dijon.' The words lip-read very similarly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McFayden's predecessor employed a laser pointer, aiming it on the counter at Uzzell's work station to alert him about new orders. In order to help communication run smoothly within the brigade, learning — and even inventing — a certain amount of sign language has become necessary to help convey the subtleties of cooking techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes there's just not a sign that explains something very specific,\" says McFayden. \"When David worked at the roast station, that was trickier because there are different temperatures for the meats, like squab, elk, or bison, and timing becomes very important. So we created our own sign language, just for our kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Deaf people do have the deck stacked against them — we have to deal with a lot of factors,\" says Uzzell. \"I've been fortunate to be in a supportive and inclusive environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While being deaf in a hearing world is a challenge, Uzzell thinks that not being distracted by the noise around him in the kitchen can be a plus, allowing him to concentrate on the minute details that are crucial to presenting a perfectly prepared dish. Says Wiedmaier, \"He has a laser focus on his tasks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the kitchen at Marcel's, the staff loves to joke about the time a new cook was working on the line and couldn't get an order right, no matter how many times McFayden called it out, leading the sous chef to finally yell in exasperation, \"We've got a deaf guy that hears better than you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a few restaurants have been highlighted in recent years for hiring deaf employees, notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/3043126/inside-san-franciscos-deaf-owned-and-operated-pizzeria\">Mozzaria\u003c/a> in San Francisco — which is also deaf-owned — and \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/food/article/20864298/fare-well-accommodates-way-more-than-vegan-diners\">Fare Well\u003c/a> in Washington, D.C., it still remains a tough job for the deaf to land. For Wiedmaier's part, having Uzzell on staff offers a model that he thinks other employers should take note of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's important that we do this as a society,\" he says, about providing work for people with disabilities. \"In my 45 years in the business, I've only had two deaf chefs, but that's two more than most other restaurants have ever had. It's a bit challenging, but it's also worth the challenge. David has become so integrated in our kitchen that we honestly forget that he's deaf; we've all adapted to each other to function as a team.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell agrees, suggesting that employers be willing to think outside the box when it comes to communication, in order to help the deaf integrate into the workplace. \"Don't be afraid to hire us,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Uzzell is focused on helping Marcel's gain a coveted Michelin star, but he still has some advice for those in the deaf community looking to land a job in a restaurant kitchen: \"Bust ass, work hard, and keep your knives sharp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kristenhartke.com\">Kristen Hartke\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "David Uzzell is deaf and works as a chef at a Washington, D.C., restaurant. Being deaf makes communication in the kitchen challenging. But Uzzell's colleagues have come up with some workarounds.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Amid the hustle and bustle of the kitchen at Marcel's, a fine dining restaurant in Washington, D.C., one member of the staff is immune to the noise. It's David Uzzell, the 28-year-old \u003cem>saucier\u003c/em> responsible for such delicacies as pan-seared foie gras or mushroom mornay sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell is a deaf chef — a rarity in the vast majority of restaurant kitchens. When chef and owner Robert Wiedmaier needs to get Uzzell's attention while expediting during dinner service, he pokes him in the shoulder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"David gets poked a lot,\" says Wiedmaier. \"There might be a dent in his shoulder from my finger by now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not all poking, according to Uzzell. \"We've come up with some workarounds,\" he says — or writes, using one of the many notepads that are permanently kept at his station to help with more lengthy communications. Having completely lost his hearing by the time he was a year old, Uzzell is used to having to figure out how to communicate to a hearing audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've never seen somebody text so fast,\" says Wiedmaier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being hard of hearing in a busy restaurant kitchen means that Uzzell's coworkers have come up with a variety of ways to get his attention over the past few years, from laser pointers to elaborate hand signals. At the same time, Uzzell is now such a fixture in the \u003cem>brigade de cuisine\u003c/em> — the French term for the hierarchy of kitchen staff — that they sometimes forget that he's deaf at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, sous chef Chris McFayden has a tendency to just talk extra loudly to Uzzell, which the kitchen staff finds amusing — as Wiedmaier quips, \"It doesn't matter how loud you are, he still can't hear you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Uzzell's part, whether or not he can hear McFayden yelling is less about the noise and more about the lesson. \"You have to develop a thick skin,\" he says of working in a restaurant kitchen. \"You can't take criticism personally. It's not about whether or not I'm deaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In a kitchen,\" says McFayden, \"everybody tends to learn when the chef yells at somebody else for a mistake. With David, I have to remember that he's not going to hear me telling someone that they did something wrong; I'm going to have to make a point to make sure he knows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduating in 2012 from Gallaudet University, a private university for the deaf and hard of hearing in Washington, D.C., Uzzell had a degree in history but no actual work history to help him to find a job. It's a common problem in the deaf community. According to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldeafcenter.org/deaf-people-and-employment-united-states-2016\">2016 study\u003c/a> by the National Deaf Center, just 48 percent of deaf Americans, aged 21 to 64, is employed, either full or part time, as compared to 72 percent of the hearing population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend recommended that Uzzell look for work at Union Market, a popular upscale food court near Gallaudet, whose vendors catered to the nearby deaf community. Starting off as a dishwasher and working his way up through the ranks in a few professional kitchens, Uzzell arrived at Marcel's in 2014 looking for new opportunities. The fact that he was hard of hearing was not a hindrance as far as Wiedmaier was concerned, since he'd already previously employed a deaf chef at another restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottom line, says Wiedmaier, \"I couldn't have hired David if he had no taste or sense of smell. Being deaf hasn't stopped him from being a damn good chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of lip reading, writing, and hand signals has become de rigueur in the kitchen at Marcel's — but it's not always foolproof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I first started,\" recalls Uzzell, \"there were a few times when I thought Chef was asking for 'sea salt' when he was asking for 'Dijon.' The words lip-read very similarly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McFayden's predecessor employed a laser pointer, aiming it on the counter at Uzzell's work station to alert him about new orders. In order to help communication run smoothly within the brigade, learning — and even inventing — a certain amount of sign language has become necessary to help convey the subtleties of cooking techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes there's just not a sign that explains something very specific,\" says McFayden. \"When David worked at the roast station, that was trickier because there are different temperatures for the meats, like squab, elk, or bison, and timing becomes very important. So we created our own sign language, just for our kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Deaf people do have the deck stacked against them — we have to deal with a lot of factors,\" says Uzzell. \"I've been fortunate to be in a supportive and inclusive environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While being deaf in a hearing world is a challenge, Uzzell thinks that not being distracted by the noise around him in the kitchen can be a plus, allowing him to concentrate on the minute details that are crucial to presenting a perfectly prepared dish. Says Wiedmaier, \"He has a laser focus on his tasks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the kitchen at Marcel's, the staff loves to joke about the time a new cook was working on the line and couldn't get an order right, no matter how many times McFayden called it out, leading the sous chef to finally yell in exasperation, \"We've got a deaf guy that hears better than you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a few restaurants have been highlighted in recent years for hiring deaf employees, notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/3043126/inside-san-franciscos-deaf-owned-and-operated-pizzeria\">Mozzaria\u003c/a> in San Francisco — which is also deaf-owned — and \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/food/article/20864298/fare-well-accommodates-way-more-than-vegan-diners\">Fare Well\u003c/a> in Washington, D.C., it still remains a tough job for the deaf to land. For Wiedmaier's part, having Uzzell on staff offers a model that he thinks other employers should take note of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's important that we do this as a society,\" he says, about providing work for people with disabilities. \"In my 45 years in the business, I've only had two deaf chefs, but that's two more than most other restaurants have ever had. It's a bit challenging, but it's also worth the challenge. David has become so integrated in our kitchen that we honestly forget that he's deaf; we've all adapted to each other to function as a team.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell agrees, suggesting that employers be willing to think outside the box when it comes to communication, in order to help the deaf integrate into the workplace. \"Don't be afraid to hire us,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Uzzell is focused on helping Marcel's gain a coveted Michelin star, but he still has some advice for those in the deaf community looking to land a job in a restaurant kitchen: \"Bust ass, work hard, and keep your knives sharp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kristenhartke.com\">Kristen Hartke\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Kristen Rasmussen Creates Smørrebrød Sandwiches with a West Coast Spin",
"title": "Kristen Rasmussen Creates Smørrebrød Sandwiches with a West Coast Spin",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Some people create art by applying oil paint to canvas. \u003ca href=\"http://www.rootedfood.com/about/\">Kristen Rasmussen\u003c/a> fashions edible artwork by applying pomegranate-cured carrots, shaved icicle radishes and foraged fennel flowers to a canvas of dense rye bread. At her recent pair of Berkeley pop-ups, Rasmussen served two of her sandwich creations. These are clearly not your ho-hum ham and swiss or PB&J; but rather a west-coast riff on \u003cem>smørrebrød\u003c/em>, the traditional Danish lunch, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/how-to-make-smorrebrod\">whose popularity\u003c/a> is spreading like the thick smear of creamy butter that’s a necessary element in each artistic assemblage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with sleek modern chairs, Havarti cheese and the cozy concept of \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/24/books/review/hygge-is-where-the-heart-is.html\">\u003cem>hygge\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, smørrebrød is one of Denmark’s gifts to the world. In the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when Danish factory workers couldn’t return home for their midday meal, they packed a practical lunch of open-faced buttered bread topped with leftovers of cold meat or smoked fish. Gradually, these morphed into more elaborate creations, especially at Christmastime. Classic combinations might include pickled herring with a twist of lemon plus a mini-bouquet of fried parsley or chicken salad layered with smoked potatoes and bacon, topped by a haystack of fried carrot shreds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120196\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kristen Rasmussen shares her Danish-inspired dishes at local pop-ups.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120196\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kristen Rasmussen shares her Danish-inspired dishes at local pop-ups. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although she can trace her last name and family roots back to Denmark, Rasmussen admits to “growing up very American in Humboldt County.” The only connection to her Nordic heritage was her grandmother’s homemade Danish butter cookies at Christmas. Four years ago, when she finally visited Denmark, Rasmussen says, “I fell in love with smørrebrød because it’s delicious, aesthetically pleasing, nurturing, and can be made gluten-free, vegan, decadent, and portable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rasmussen and assistants set up for pop-up lunch on a rooftop in Berkeley, amid the organic garden plots of Top Leaf Farms.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1526\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120199\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-160x127.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-800x636.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-768x610.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-1020x811.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-1180x938.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-960x763.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-240x191.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-375x298.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-520x413.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rasmussen and assistants set up for pop-up lunch on a rooftop in Berkeley, amid the organic garden plots of Top Leaf Farms. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>August's pop-up lunches could not have taken place in a more striking setting: on a Berkeley rooftop with a killer view, amidst \u003ca href=\"http://www.topleaffarms.com/index.html\">Top Leaf Farms’\u003c/a> 16 lush garden plots, which practically erupt in edible vegetation. Rasmussen, a Registered Dietitian Nutritionist, has taught food science at UC Berkeley and the Culinary Institute of America and worked in restaurants. She consults on menu design, recipe development and sustainable sourcing. Since she is totally behind the hyper-local, bio-intensive growing techniques of Top Leaf Farms and often includes their micro-greens, herbs and roots in her menus, she decided to have her smørrebrød pop-ups a stone’s throw from the beds where many of her ingredients are grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new.jpg\" alt=\"Top Leaf Farm's founder, ecological designer and organic farmer Benjamin Fahrer, introduces some of his bounty. His hyper-local rooftop farm, delivers to customers within a 3 mile radius, including Pizzaiolo, Gather and Chez Panisse.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1697\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120201\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-160x141.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-800x707.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-768x679.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-1020x902.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-1180x1043.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-960x849.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-240x212.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-375x331.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-520x460.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Top Leaf Farm's founder, ecological designer and organic farmer Benjamin Fahrer, introduces some of his bounty. His hyper-local rooftop farm, delivers to customers within a 3 mile radius, including Pizzaiolo, Gather and Chez Panisse. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fruits of foraging, another of her passions, also enlivened her smørrebrød and the famous Danish dessert (and infamous Danish tongue twister) \u003cem>Rødgrød med fløde\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Spidery yellow fennel flowers festooned salmon sandwiches. She made a cordial from elder flowers she had collected in Tilden Park to flavor the whipped cream cupping the raspberries. (Here is her \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/recipes/beverages/classic-elderflower-cordial/\">recipe for making elderflower cordial.\u003c/a>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120202\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rasmussen cures her own herb-salted salmon and pomegranate-cured carrots. She foraged the fennel flowers in her Oakland neighborhood.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120202\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rasmussen cures her own herb-salted salmon and pomegranate-cured carrots. She foraged the fennel flowers in her Oakland neighborhood. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I have always foraged things,” says Rasmussen. “Growing up in Humboldt County, I picked wild blackberries. When I lived in Arizona, I noticed large numbers of Seville orange trees that no one was harvesting. So I picked oranges, made marmalade and sold it. Then I got into dates and cactus. Foraging is a fun way to connect to season and environment, with edible flowers (such as borage, nasturtiums, and mustard flowers), roots, seeds and even pesto made from dandelion greens.” Rasmussen is involved with Wild and Feral Food Week (WFFW) and \u003ca href=\"https://forage.berkeley.edu/\">Berkeley Open Source Food\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The forager also became a “porridge-er” after visiting \u003ca href=\"http://groed.com/en/our-restaurants/\">Grød,\u003c/a> a famous Danish restaurant chain that specializes in savory as well as sweet porridges. Besides smørrebrød themed lunches, Rasmussen also holds\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Kristen-Rasmussen-finds-comfort-in-a-bowl-of-11273927.php\"> porridge-focused pop-ups\u003c/a> and is seriously flirting with the idea of opening a restaurant combining her two obsessions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With her strong belief in seasonality and eating local, Rasmussen admits that she doesn’t make Danish dishes exactly the way they are made in Denmark. She calls her approach West-Coast Nordic, and may include ingredients such as avocados, mayo with chives and tahini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, while she wants to introduce Californians to the goodness of Danish dishes, she is equally drawn to bringing Californian goodies to Denmark. In July, she did a stage at Selma, a prize-winning smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. “The chef invited me to do a West Coast Nordic pop-up and I made a California BLT with bacon, little gem lettuce, tomato, charred avocado with Serrano aioli and shiso. And for dessert, a S'mores smørrebrød: flamed beach rose-scented marshmallow, crispy rye and cardamom chocolate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120198\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rasmussen's homemade sourdough rye bread with flax and sunflower seeds provides the perfect base for her creations.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120198\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-160x121.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-800x604.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-768x580.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-1020x770.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-1180x891.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-960x725.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-240x181.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-375x283.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-520x393.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rasmussen's homemade sourdough rye bread with flax and sunflower seeds provides the perfect base for her creations. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The backbone of smørrebrød (which literally means “buttered bread”) is the dark, dense rye that serves as base and ballast for fanciful combinations of varied toppings. It’s practically impossible to find the classic Danish rugbrød in these parts. But leave it to Rasmussen to figure out how to recreate the dark, sour loaves herself. “It's a time-intensive process that takes three days,” she explains, “but that is mostly waiting for it to ferment.” It also requires a sourdough rye starter, although Rasmussen says she just uses the spores from the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steve Thompson of Euclidean Building crafted wood platters and bowls for the pop-up lunch. Guests were invited to take them home.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1054\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-960x1012.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Thompson of Euclidean Building crafted wood platters and bowls for the pop-up lunch. Guests were invited to take them home. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120197\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Octagonal cup by Steve Thompson holds classic Danish dessert, <em>Rødgrød med fløde,</em> raspberries, elderflower cream with brown butter rye crumbles.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2191\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120197\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-160x183.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-800x913.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-768x876.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-1020x1164.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-1180x1347.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-960x1096.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-240x274.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-375x428.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-520x593.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Octagonal cup by Steve Thompson holds classic Danish dessert, \u003cem>Rødgrød med fløde,\u003c/em> raspberries, elderflower cream with brown butter rye crumbles. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The culinary nutrition expert is all about collaboration, whether that encompasses working with spores in the air, seasonal plants, weeds and flowers that spring up on her path or her fellow artists. For the August smørrebrød pop-up, her friend Steve Thompson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.euclideanbuilding.com/portfolio-1/\">Euclidean Building\u003c/a> fashioned sturdy plates and cups from Douglas fir which guests could take home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the next smørrebrød pop-up in Oakland on September 30, ceramicist\u003ca href=\"http://sarahkoik.com/\"> Sarah Koik\u003c/a> will make mugs and bowls. See Rasmussen's website \u003ca href=\"http://www.rootedfood.com/\">Rootedfood.com\u003c/a> for details on upcoming events and links to purchase tickets.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Smørrebrød are composed Danish open-faced sandwiches that double as artistic creations. Try them at East Bay culinary nutrition expert Kristen Rasmussen's pop-up lunches. ",
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"description": "Smørrebrød are composed Danish open-faced sandwiches that double as artistic creations. Try them at East Bay culinary nutrition expert Kristen Rasmussen's pop-up lunches. ",
"title": "Kristen Rasmussen Creates Smørrebrød Sandwiches with a West Coast Spin | KQED",
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"headline": "Kristen Rasmussen Creates Smørrebrød Sandwiches with a West Coast Spin",
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"source": "Restaurants, Bars, Cafes, Pop-Ups",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Some people create art by applying oil paint to canvas. \u003ca href=\"http://www.rootedfood.com/about/\">Kristen Rasmussen\u003c/a> fashions edible artwork by applying pomegranate-cured carrots, shaved icicle radishes and foraged fennel flowers to a canvas of dense rye bread. At her recent pair of Berkeley pop-ups, Rasmussen served two of her sandwich creations. These are clearly not your ho-hum ham and swiss or PB&J; but rather a west-coast riff on \u003cem>smørrebrød\u003c/em>, the traditional Danish lunch, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/how-to-make-smorrebrod\">whose popularity\u003c/a> is spreading like the thick smear of creamy butter that’s a necessary element in each artistic assemblage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with sleek modern chairs, Havarti cheese and the cozy concept of \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/24/books/review/hygge-is-where-the-heart-is.html\">\u003cem>hygge\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, smørrebrød is one of Denmark’s gifts to the world. In the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when Danish factory workers couldn’t return home for their midday meal, they packed a practical lunch of open-faced buttered bread topped with leftovers of cold meat or smoked fish. Gradually, these morphed into more elaborate creations, especially at Christmastime. Classic combinations might include pickled herring with a twist of lemon plus a mini-bouquet of fried parsley or chicken salad layered with smoked potatoes and bacon, topped by a haystack of fried carrot shreds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120196\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kristen Rasmussen shares her Danish-inspired dishes at local pop-ups.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120196\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-800x1066.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/Kristen-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kristen Rasmussen shares her Danish-inspired dishes at local pop-ups. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although she can trace her last name and family roots back to Denmark, Rasmussen admits to “growing up very American in Humboldt County.” The only connection to her Nordic heritage was her grandmother’s homemade Danish butter cookies at Christmas. Four years ago, when she finally visited Denmark, Rasmussen says, “I fell in love with smørrebrød because it’s delicious, aesthetically pleasing, nurturing, and can be made gluten-free, vegan, decadent, and portable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rasmussen and assistants set up for pop-up lunch on a rooftop in Berkeley, amid the organic garden plots of Top Leaf Farms.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1526\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120199\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-160x127.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-800x636.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-768x610.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-1020x811.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-1180x938.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-960x763.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-240x191.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-375x298.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/3-view-new-520x413.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rasmussen and assistants set up for pop-up lunch on a rooftop in Berkeley, amid the organic garden plots of Top Leaf Farms. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>August's pop-up lunches could not have taken place in a more striking setting: on a Berkeley rooftop with a killer view, amidst \u003ca href=\"http://www.topleaffarms.com/index.html\">Top Leaf Farms’\u003c/a> 16 lush garden plots, which practically erupt in edible vegetation. Rasmussen, a Registered Dietitian Nutritionist, has taught food science at UC Berkeley and the Culinary Institute of America and worked in restaurants. She consults on menu design, recipe development and sustainable sourcing. Since she is totally behind the hyper-local, bio-intensive growing techniques of Top Leaf Farms and often includes their micro-greens, herbs and roots in her menus, she decided to have her smørrebrød pop-ups a stone’s throw from the beds where many of her ingredients are grown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120201\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new.jpg\" alt=\"Top Leaf Farm's founder, ecological designer and organic farmer Benjamin Fahrer, introduces some of his bounty. His hyper-local rooftop farm, delivers to customers within a 3 mile radius, including Pizzaiolo, Gather and Chez Panisse.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1697\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120201\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-160x141.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-800x707.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-768x679.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-1020x902.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-1180x1043.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-960x849.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-240x212.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-375x331.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/4-Benjamin-new-520x460.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Top Leaf Farm's founder, ecological designer and organic farmer Benjamin Fahrer, introduces some of his bounty. His hyper-local rooftop farm, delivers to customers within a 3 mile radius, including Pizzaiolo, Gather and Chez Panisse. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fruits of foraging, another of her passions, also enlivened her smørrebrød and the famous Danish dessert (and infamous Danish tongue twister) \u003cem>Rødgrød med fløde\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Spidery yellow fennel flowers festooned salmon sandwiches. She made a cordial from elder flowers she had collected in Tilden Park to flavor the whipped cream cupping the raspberries. (Here is her \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/recipes/beverages/classic-elderflower-cordial/\">recipe for making elderflower cordial.\u003c/a>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120202\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rasmussen cures her own herb-salted salmon and pomegranate-cured carrots. She foraged the fennel flowers in her Oakland neighborhood.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1365\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120202\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-800x569.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-768x546.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-1020x725.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-1180x839.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-960x683.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/5-sandwich-elements-new-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rasmussen cures her own herb-salted salmon and pomegranate-cured carrots. She foraged the fennel flowers in her Oakland neighborhood. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I have always foraged things,” says Rasmussen. “Growing up in Humboldt County, I picked wild blackberries. When I lived in Arizona, I noticed large numbers of Seville orange trees that no one was harvesting. So I picked oranges, made marmalade and sold it. Then I got into dates and cactus. Foraging is a fun way to connect to season and environment, with edible flowers (such as borage, nasturtiums, and mustard flowers), roots, seeds and even pesto made from dandelion greens.” Rasmussen is involved with Wild and Feral Food Week (WFFW) and \u003ca href=\"https://forage.berkeley.edu/\">Berkeley Open Source Food\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The forager also became a “porridge-er” after visiting \u003ca href=\"http://groed.com/en/our-restaurants/\">Grød,\u003c/a> a famous Danish restaurant chain that specializes in savory as well as sweet porridges. Besides smørrebrød themed lunches, Rasmussen also holds\u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Kristen-Rasmussen-finds-comfort-in-a-bowl-of-11273927.php\"> porridge-focused pop-ups\u003c/a> and is seriously flirting with the idea of opening a restaurant combining her two obsessions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With her strong belief in seasonality and eating local, Rasmussen admits that she doesn’t make Danish dishes exactly the way they are made in Denmark. She calls her approach West-Coast Nordic, and may include ingredients such as avocados, mayo with chives and tahini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, while she wants to introduce Californians to the goodness of Danish dishes, she is equally drawn to bringing Californian goodies to Denmark. In July, she did a stage at Selma, a prize-winning smørrebrød restaurant in Copenhagen. “The chef invited me to do a West Coast Nordic pop-up and I made a California BLT with bacon, little gem lettuce, tomato, charred avocado with Serrano aioli and shiso. And for dessert, a S'mores smørrebrød: flamed beach rose-scented marshmallow, crispy rye and cardamom chocolate.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120198\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new.jpg\" alt=\"Rasmussen's homemade sourdough rye bread with flax and sunflower seeds provides the perfect base for her creations.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120198\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-160x121.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-800x604.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-768x580.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-1020x770.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-1180x891.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-960x725.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-240x181.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-375x283.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/6-rye-bread-new-520x393.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rasmussen's homemade sourdough rye bread with flax and sunflower seeds provides the perfect base for her creations. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The backbone of smørrebrød (which literally means “buttered bread”) is the dark, dense rye that serves as base and ballast for fanciful combinations of varied toppings. It’s practically impossible to find the classic Danish rugbrød in these parts. But leave it to Rasmussen to figure out how to recreate the dark, sour loaves herself. “It's a time-intensive process that takes three days,” she explains, “but that is mostly waiting for it to ferment.” It also requires a sourdough rye starter, although Rasmussen says she just uses the spores from the air.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120200\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steve Thompson of Euclidean Building crafted wood platters and bowls for the pop-up lunch. Guests were invited to take them home.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1054\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-160x169.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-800x843.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-768x809.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-960x1012.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-240x253.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-375x395.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/7-boards-new-520x548.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Thompson of Euclidean Building crafted wood platters and bowls for the pop-up lunch. Guests were invited to take them home. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120197\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Octagonal cup by Steve Thompson holds classic Danish dessert, <em>Rødgrød med fløde,</em> raspberries, elderflower cream with brown butter rye crumbles.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2191\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120197\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-160x183.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-800x913.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-768x876.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-1020x1164.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-1180x1347.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-960x1096.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-240x274.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-375x428.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/8-dessert-new-1-520x593.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Octagonal cup by Steve Thompson holds classic Danish dessert, \u003cem>Rødgrød med fløde,\u003c/em> raspberries, elderflower cream with brown butter rye crumbles. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The culinary nutrition expert is all about collaboration, whether that encompasses working with spores in the air, seasonal plants, weeds and flowers that spring up on her path or her fellow artists. For the August smørrebrød pop-up, her friend Steve Thompson of \u003ca href=\"http://www.euclideanbuilding.com/portfolio-1/\">Euclidean Building\u003c/a> fashioned sturdy plates and cups from Douglas fir which guests could take home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the next smørrebrød pop-up in Oakland on September 30, ceramicist\u003ca href=\"http://sarahkoik.com/\"> Sarah Koik\u003c/a> will make mugs and bowls. See Rasmussen's website \u003ca href=\"http://www.rootedfood.com/\">Rootedfood.com\u003c/a> for details on upcoming events and links to purchase tickets.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Gio’s Pizza & Bocce Opens in Downtown Berkeley After Complete Remodel of Former Giovanni Space",
"title": "Gio’s Pizza & Bocce Opens in Downtown Berkeley After Complete Remodel of Former Giovanni Space",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cem>A beloved downtown Berkeley haunt is reinvigorated with the grand opening of Gio’s Pizza & Bocce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a complete overhaul of the long-beloved Giovanni Bar & Grill in downtown Berkeley, \u003ca href=\"http://giosberkeley.com/\">Gio’s Pizza & Bocce\u003c/a> has transformed the once dark, cavernous space into a cool, golden-hued hangout with an indoor bocce court, an obsession with Italian \u003cem>appertivi\u003c/em>, and a menu of solid pastas and salads. We visited the newly christened spot last week during Gio’s soft opening and tried most of the dishes on the limited menu (which will expand this week at the grand opening today, Wednesday, August 23).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120133\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio's front room interior with bar, tables and Bocce court.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120133\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio's front room interior with bar, tables and Bocce court. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The huge space was beautifully designed by Farm League Design Management, who nailed just the right shade of orange for the mid-century Modern look of the banquettes and wisely retained the original murals along the back wall and neon lights above the kitchen announcing “PIZZA CALZONE.” Adam Stemmler, from the design firm, manages all restaurant operations, and Frederico Oliveira, formerly of La Mar Cebicheria and Boulevard in San Francisco, is the chef de cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120141\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio’s open kitchen with original Giovanni's neon signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120141\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio’s open kitchen with original Giovanni's neon signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The brilliance of the new space, opened by locals Xin and Michele Jin and developer Nathan George, and what the eye is continually drawn to, is the indoor bocce court, where you can let your kids roam and play while you peruse the beverage list. Above the astro-turf-lined court are several big TVs playing black-and-white Italian gangster movies. The whole deal almost fell apart during the pair’s negotiations to buy the place from longtime owners, the Schipani family, when a fire broke out and did enough damage to make the renovation a considerably more extensive proposition. But it worked out nearly two years later, as the restaurant opened its doors to guests last week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kid-friendly indoor bocce court.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120136\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kid-friendly indoor bocce court. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The drinks menu leads with six classic apertifs, from the sweet Cocchi Americano vermouth to the bitterish digestif Carpano Punt e Mes, also available in flights of three (stick with sweet or bitter or mix it up). We enjoyed a refreshing spritz of watermelon and mint with another digestif, Carpano Bianco, and a splash of Mezcal. The classic Venetian aperol spritz (with soda water and prosecco) is also available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120146\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"Spritz of watermelon and mint with Carpano Bianco, and a splash of Mezcal.\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-120146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-520x780.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spritz of watermelon and mint with Carpano Bianco, and a splash of Mezcal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We ordered two appetizers, two salads, two pastas, two little pizzas and one main dish to share among six, and there was ample food to go around. Fried calamari was light and crispy, served with lemon aioli and sprinkled with fried parsley. We also tried the spicy meatballs, a little bowl of tender beef and pork meatballs with bread and grana Padano, swimming in a deliciously sweet, chile-inflected tomato sauce. When the meatballs were gone, we saved the sauce for dipping the pizza crusts that were to come later. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120138\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Calamari\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120138\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried Calamari \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Meatballs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120137\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spicy Meatballs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads and pastas were the highlight of the meal. A generous caprese salad with perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes and room-temperature burrata (much preferable to straight out of the fridge) was dressed with olive oil and a splash of sweet balsamic vinegar reduction. And the equally attractive yellow beet salad was composed of thin coins of beets on the bottom and a mound of baby arugula on top, tossed in a pleasingly tart lemon vinaigrette. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Caprese salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120176\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caprese salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Beet Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120177\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our two pasta selections were winners, according to kids and adults alike. A study in both contrast and simplicity, the linguine marinara was tossed with the same sauce as the meatballs, without the chiles, while the fettucine Alfredo (now an American classic more than an Italian one) was subtly complex, creamy, egg-laden, and with hints of spices (perhaps nutmeg?). Both were served \u003cem>al dente\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new.jpg\" alt=\"Linguine & Marinara (served with spaghetti pasta)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linguine & Marinara (served with spaghetti pasta on our visit) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120145\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fettucine Alfredo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120145\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fettucine Alfredo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The pizza genre is a bit of a mystery. Billed as “single Sicilian-style,” these little flatbreads are just the right size for kids and have quality ingredients. But they’re rather doughy, not crisp, something to be aware of if you prefer thin and crispy pizza. Both the Margherita with pepperoni added and the fungi & sausage are quite cheesy, the former with red sauce and the latter with a cream-based sauce with a sprinkle of thyme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new.jpg\" alt=\"Margherita pizza with pepperoni added\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120139\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Margherita pizza with pepperoni added. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120140\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fungi & sausage pizza ordered without sausage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120140\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fungi & sausage pizza ordered without sausage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There was one entrée special, and the carnivores among us shared it: medium-rare hanger steak with fingerling potatoes and a baby arugula salad, paired with the house red wine (a Sierra Foothills red blend) for $5.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new.jpg\" alt=\"Medium-rare hanger steak with fingerling potatoes and a baby arugula salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120147\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medium-rare hanger steak with fingerling potatoes and a baby arugula salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The one dessert on the menu offered something for everyone. Large enough for all six of us to snag a few bites, the polenta cake was topped with ricotta cream, summer fruit, and a surprising and wonderful garnish of kettle corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new.jpg\" alt=\"Polenta cake topped with ricotta cream, summer fruit, and a surprising and wonderful garnish of kettle corn.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Polenta cake topped with ricotta cream, summer fruit, and a surprising and wonderful garnish of kettle corn. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> If you peak behind the mystery door made of olive oil cans (which doubles as an art piece on view for guests in the main dining room), you’ll find a little museum of the old Giovanni’s space, a dimly lit private dining area with movies, a loungey feel, and full menu service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new.jpg\" alt=\"Olive oil cans doorway to private dining room\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120134\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olive oil cans doorway to private dining room \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>[gallery columns=\"2\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"120135,120152\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gio’s is a fun downtown-Berkeley destination, nicely situated near movie theaters and BAMPFA, and with bocce to boot!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior at night. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://giosberkeley.com/\">\u003cstrong>Gio’s Pizza & Bocce\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2420 Shattuck Ave.\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704 [ \u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/p9CUXn\">Map\u003c/a> ]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 647-9963\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Sun, 5-10pm; closed Mon-Tue\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$-$$$ ($12-$25)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/giosberkeley/\">@giosberkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/giosberkeley/\">@giosberkeley\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "A beloved downtown Berkeley haunt is reinvigorated with the grand opening of Gio’s Pizza & Bocce.",
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"title": "Gio’s Pizza & Bocce Opens in Downtown Berkeley After Complete Remodel of Former Giovanni Space | KQED",
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"headline": "Gio’s Pizza & Bocce Opens in Downtown Berkeley After Complete Remodel of Former Giovanni Space",
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"source": "Restaurants, Bars, Cafes, Pop-Ups",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>A beloved downtown Berkeley haunt is reinvigorated with the grand opening of Gio’s Pizza & Bocce.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a complete overhaul of the long-beloved Giovanni Bar & Grill in downtown Berkeley, \u003ca href=\"http://giosberkeley.com/\">Gio’s Pizza & Bocce\u003c/a> has transformed the once dark, cavernous space into a cool, golden-hued hangout with an indoor bocce court, an obsession with Italian \u003cem>appertivi\u003c/em>, and a menu of solid pastas and salads. We visited the newly christened spot last week during Gio’s soft opening and tried most of the dishes on the limited menu (which will expand this week at the grand opening today, Wednesday, August 23).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_9966-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120133\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio's front room interior with bar, tables and Bocce court.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120133\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0001-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio's front room interior with bar, tables and Bocce court. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The huge space was beautifully designed by Farm League Design Management, who nailed just the right shade of orange for the mid-century Modern look of the banquettes and wisely retained the original murals along the back wall and neon lights above the kitchen announcing “PIZZA CALZONE.” Adam Stemmler, from the design firm, manages all restaurant operations, and Frederico Oliveira, formerly of La Mar Cebicheria and Boulevard in San Francisco, is the chef de cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120141\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio’s open kitchen with original Giovanni's neon signage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120141\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0110-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio’s open kitchen with original Giovanni's neon signage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The brilliance of the new space, opened by locals Xin and Michele Jin and developer Nathan George, and what the eye is continually drawn to, is the indoor bocce court, where you can let your kids roam and play while you peruse the beverage list. Above the astro-turf-lined court are several big TVs playing black-and-white Italian gangster movies. The whole deal almost fell apart during the pair’s negotiations to buy the place from longtime owners, the Schipani family, when a fire broke out and did enough damage to make the renovation a considerably more extensive proposition. But it worked out nearly two years later, as the restaurant opened its doors to guests last week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kid-friendly indoor bocce court.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120136\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0033-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kid-friendly indoor bocce court. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The drinks menu leads with six classic apertifs, from the sweet Cocchi Americano vermouth to the bitterish digestif Carpano Punt e Mes, also available in flights of three (stick with sweet or bitter or mix it up). We enjoyed a refreshing spritz of watermelon and mint with another digestif, Carpano Bianco, and a splash of Mezcal. The classic Venetian aperol spritz (with soda water and prosecco) is also available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120146\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"Spritz of watermelon and mint with Carpano Bianco, and a splash of Mezcal.\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-120146\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new-520x780.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0185-new.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spritz of watermelon and mint with Carpano Bianco, and a splash of Mezcal. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We ordered two appetizers, two salads, two pastas, two little pizzas and one main dish to share among six, and there was ample food to go around. Fried calamari was light and crispy, served with lemon aioli and sprinkled with fried parsley. We also tried the spicy meatballs, a little bowl of tender beef and pork meatballs with bread and grana Padano, swimming in a deliciously sweet, chile-inflected tomato sauce. When the meatballs were gone, we saved the sauce for dipping the pizza crusts that were to come later. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120138\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Calamari\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120138\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0077-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fried Calamari \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy Meatballs\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120137\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0070-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spicy Meatballs \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salads and pastas were the highlight of the meal. A generous caprese salad with perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes and room-temperature burrata (much preferable to straight out of the fridge) was dressed with olive oil and a splash of sweet balsamic vinegar reduction. And the equally attractive yellow beet salad was composed of thin coins of beets on the bottom and a mound of baby arugula on top, tossed in a pleasingly tart lemon vinaigrette. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Caprese salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120176\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0131-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caprese salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120177\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Beet Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120177\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0145-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beet Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our two pasta selections were winners, according to kids and adults alike. A study in both contrast and simplicity, the linguine marinara was tossed with the same sauce as the meatballs, without the chiles, while the fettucine Alfredo (now an American classic more than an Italian one) was subtly complex, creamy, egg-laden, and with hints of spices (perhaps nutmeg?). Both were served \u003cem>al dente\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120144\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new.jpg\" alt=\"Linguine & Marinara (served with spaghetti pasta)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120144\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0161-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Linguine & Marinara (served with spaghetti pasta on our visit) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120145\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fettucine Alfredo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120145\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0176-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fettucine Alfredo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The pizza genre is a bit of a mystery. Billed as “single Sicilian-style,” these little flatbreads are just the right size for kids and have quality ingredients. But they’re rather doughy, not crisp, something to be aware of if you prefer thin and crispy pizza. Both the Margherita with pepperoni added and the fungi & sausage are quite cheesy, the former with red sauce and the latter with a cream-based sauce with a sprinkle of thyme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120139\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new.jpg\" alt=\"Margherita pizza with pepperoni added\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120139\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0084-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Margherita pizza with pepperoni added. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120140\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fungi & sausage pizza ordered without sausage.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120140\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0100-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fungi & sausage pizza ordered without sausage. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There was one entrée special, and the carnivores among us shared it: medium-rare hanger steak with fingerling potatoes and a baby arugula salad, paired with the house red wine (a Sierra Foothills red blend) for $5.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120147\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new.jpg\" alt=\"Medium-rare hanger steak with fingerling potatoes and a baby arugula salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120147\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0193-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medium-rare hanger steak with fingerling potatoes and a baby arugula salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The one dessert on the menu offered something for everyone. Large enough for all six of us to snag a few bites, the polenta cake was topped with ricotta cream, summer fruit, and a surprising and wonderful garnish of kettle corn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120150\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new.jpg\" alt=\"Polenta cake topped with ricotta cream, summer fruit, and a surprising and wonderful garnish of kettle corn.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120150\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0216-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Polenta cake topped with ricotta cream, summer fruit, and a surprising and wonderful garnish of kettle corn. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> If you peak behind the mystery door made of olive oil cans (which doubles as an art piece on view for guests in the main dining room), you’ll find a little museum of the old Giovanni’s space, a dimly lit private dining area with movies, a loungey feel, and full menu service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new.jpg\" alt=\"Olive oil cans doorway to private dining room\" width=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120134\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0007-new-520x780.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olive oil cans doorway to private dining room \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gio’s is a fun downtown-Berkeley destination, nicely situated near movie theaters and BAMPFA, and with bocce to boot!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120153\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new.jpg\" alt=\"Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior at night.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120153\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/08/IMG_0264-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gio's Pizza & Bocce exterior at night. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://giosberkeley.com/\">\u003cstrong>Gio’s Pizza & Bocce\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2420 Shattuck Ave.\u003cbr>\nBerkeley, CA 94704 [ \u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/p9CUXn\">Map\u003c/a> ]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 647-9963\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Sun, 5-10pm; closed Mon-Tue\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $$-$$$ ($12-$25)\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/giosberkeley/\">@giosberkeley\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/giosberkeley/\">@giosberkeley\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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