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(Since the start of the pandemic, Bay Area food banks been a crucial resource for financially stretched families, with Alameda County Community Food bank distributing more than\u003ca href=\"https://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/local/bay-area-food-banks-still-see-huge-spikes-in-demand-as-pandemic-persists/2365229/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> 4 million pounds of food per month\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139244\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139244\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"People from HYBEAMS in masks smiling and giving thumbs up\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The HYBEAMS Travel Street Team \u003ccite>(Kelly Curry/HYBEAMS)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“There was this one mom with her daughter back in March,” remembers Curry. “This was the first day we did it, and I was just out there with our jar. And this little girl was like ‘Mommy, they have smoothies!’” Curry says that food banks don't always have fresh food items. It’s more common to see things like cereal and canned goods, so having that reaction from the little girl was really lovely for Curry. “The mom was like ‘Oh my god, I’m so glad there’s something local and fresh,’ and that was it for me. I was like, \u003cem>we got to keep doing this\u003c/em>,” says Curry. [aside postid='arts_13883580']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of that “keep doing this” was going on a Southern California tour, which wrapped up on Oct. 9. The HYBEAMS team wanted to reach people like farmworkers and nurses and help them protect their health through nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members of HYBEAMS toured all through Oxnard, Ventura County and other parts of Southern California to make connections and expand their education program. One of their first stops on the week-long tour was at Gusto Bread in Long Beach. The bakery has a lot of customers who come to pick up loaves every day. “They wanted to know what we were doing and why we were giving them up for free,” says HYBEAMS member Yenni Copto. “I wasn't expecting that, but I knew it was coming, so I had to improvise.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the tour, they gave out about 1,000 smoothies. Copto has first-hand experience on how a simple drink can help people nourish their bodies. She started making smoothies for her 9-year-old son, who doesn’t like to eat vegetables or fruit. Now he asks for them every morning. She hopes that the same thing will happen as a result of talking to people on the tour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curry hopes that this the first tour of many in the future, and is looking for creative ways to expand the program, such as training farmworkers to use unsellable produce for smoothies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We‘re really reinvigorating and trying to reshape the food system,” says Curry. “I’ve always felt that with the food justice equity world in the Bay Area, it’s kind of like a bottle neck. We need to move it down to the rest of California. You’ve got the farmworkers who grow so much of the nation’s food, and they couldn’t afford to buy a smoothie at a lot of places.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>HYBEAMS stands for “Heal your body, energy, attitude, mind, spirit.” How, exactly? Through something as simple as a green smoothie. The project is an initiative of Bay Area food sovereignty organization \u003ca href=\"https://plantingjustice.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Planting Justice\u003c/a>, which creates green jobs for people transitioning from prison. HYBEAMS started in January with a mission to teach people about nutrition while handing out free smoothies made from produce from the Planting Justice nursery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The founder behind \u003ca href=\"https://electricsmoothies.org/\">The Electric Smoothie Lab Apothecary\u003c/a>, Kelly Curry, was tapped to train the staff. Every Monday became their nutrition and healing day. Then March came. “We had to sit down and talk about whether we were going to go out and do our healing booth,” says Curry. “All the schools we worked in were shut down. So everything was sidelined.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After coming together, they decided to go to food banks in Oakland, San Francisco and the greater Bay Area to help develop a protocol to deliver smoothies that way. (Since the start of the pandemic, Bay Area food banks been a crucial resource for financially stretched families, with Alameda County Community Food bank distributing more than\u003ca href=\"https://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/local/bay-area-food-banks-still-see-huge-spikes-in-demand-as-pandemic-persists/2365229/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> 4 million pounds of food per month\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139244\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139244\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"People from HYBEAMS in masks smiling and giving thumbs up\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_3668-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The HYBEAMS Travel Street Team \u003ccite>(Kelly Curry/HYBEAMS)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“There was this one mom with her daughter back in March,” remembers Curry. “This was the first day we did it, and I was just out there with our jar. And this little girl was like ‘Mommy, they have smoothies!’” Curry says that food banks don't always have fresh food items. It’s more common to see things like cereal and canned goods, so having that reaction from the little girl was really lovely for Curry. “The mom was like ‘Oh my god, I’m so glad there’s something local and fresh,’ and that was it for me. I was like, \u003cem>we got to keep doing this\u003c/em>,” says Curry. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Part of that “keep doing this” was going on a Southern California tour, which wrapped up on Oct. 9. The HYBEAMS team wanted to reach people like farmworkers and nurses and help them protect their health through nutrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members of HYBEAMS toured all through Oxnard, Ventura County and other parts of Southern California to make connections and expand their education program. One of their first stops on the week-long tour was at Gusto Bread in Long Beach. The bakery has a lot of customers who come to pick up loaves every day. “They wanted to know what we were doing and why we were giving them up for free,” says HYBEAMS member Yenni Copto. “I wasn't expecting that, but I knew it was coming, so I had to improvise.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the tour, they gave out about 1,000 smoothies. Copto has first-hand experience on how a simple drink can help people nourish their bodies. She started making smoothies for her 9-year-old son, who doesn’t like to eat vegetables or fruit. Now he asks for them every morning. She hopes that the same thing will happen as a result of talking to people on the tour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Curry hopes that this the first tour of many in the future, and is looking for creative ways to expand the program, such as training farmworkers to use unsellable produce for smoothies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We‘re really reinvigorating and trying to reshape the food system,” says Curry. “I’ve always felt that with the food justice equity world in the Bay Area, it’s kind of like a bottle neck. We need to move it down to the rest of California. You’ve got the farmworkers who grow so much of the nation’s food, and they couldn’t afford to buy a smoothie at a lot of places.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>Howard Cao never really intended to get into the spirits business. As photographer and founder of the San Francisco-based advertising agency Form & Fiction, he and his team were celebrating the wrap of a client project that just happened to be on National Tequila Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His colleague suggested that they should have some to celebrate. Cao was skeptical at first. \"I think people look at tequila as this fire water type of thing,\" he says. His taste for the spirit bittered at a family reunion with his wife's family, who have a Mexican heritage. Cao and his wife's uncle would get into drinking contests. \"I learned not to like the taste of tequila after that,\" says Cao.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the trepidation, they pulled out a bottle that was a gift from their old studio manager. \"When I tasted it, I was like 'Oh man' I forgot how good tequila could be,\" says Cao. \"It was a real awakening.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cao looked at his friend, and started thinking aloud about creating a client gift by making their own bottles. They started designing moonshine bottles, and sent about 100 to family and friends.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response was overwhelming, and as an entrepreneur, Cao kept thinking: How hard would it actually be to produce a spirit or a tequila? At the time, he was working with Ken MacKenzie, who was the chief operation officer and co-founder of Republic Tequila with about 20 years of industry experience. When Cao asked MacKenzie about the idea, Mackenzie looked at him and said he wouldn't recommend it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Cao couldn't let it go, and that's how \u003ca href=\"https://www.kokorospirits.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kokoro Spirits\u003c/a> got started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting a tequila brand is a long process. First, in order to be called tequila, there's a geographically specific certification process similar to that of wine in Italy and France. To bear the name of the spirit, versus being called an agave-derived liquor, the blue agave has to be grown in one of five states and certified by \u003ca href=\"https://www.thrillist.com/drink/nation/tequila-terms-you-should-know\">The Tequila Regulatory Council\u003c/a> (CRT)— Jalisco, parts of Guanjuato, Tamaulipas, Michoacán and Nayarit. On top of that, there are other standards that are set by the (CRT). Beyond that, there's finding a distiller, working within U.S. guidelines and trying to change people's perspectives around the spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cao admits that he didn't know much about tequila when he first began this journey. \"I'm a kid from Nebraska, so my palate for all this stuff is not as sophisticated as if I were growing up on the West Coast,\" says Cao. \"All of this was a great learning experience for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers going down to Guadalajara going through tasting after tasting to try to find the perfect tequila for his brand. At the time, he wanted to produce an extra añejo, which is a designation of tequilas that are aged in oak barrels for at least three years. But then, he tasted a blanco, and that was his \"aha\" moment. Blancos are probably the type of tequila that most people are familiar with. Unlike the añejo or reposada, this tequila lacks color and isn't aged more than 50 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Cao, this particular blanco felt like a true representation of tequila. It wasn't fire-and-water, but very floral with apple notes and a kiss of pineapple. He asked the master distiller which of her tequilas made her the most proud. \"She told me the blanco because she had full control over it,\" says Cao. \"She said once it hits the wood (the barrels used for aging), I don't have a lot of control over it.\" That night, he recalls that he couldn't sleep because he made a big decision to make a blanco as his first spirit for the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, Cao is really happy with his decision. He says, with the other versions of tequila, the finished product ends up losing a lot of its agave qualities. The whole process took about three years, but on Oct. 10, Cao finally\u003ca href=\"https://www.kokorospirits.com/\"> launched Kokoro Spirits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even before the pandemic, Cao knew he wanted to have a direct-to-consumer model, and his small-batch brand is also in the process of becoming a certified B corporation, benefiting the \u003ca href=\"https://www.usbgfoundation.org/hdrf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">United States Bartenders Guild Helen David Relief Fund\u003c/a>, which supports those in the industry battling breast cancer, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.casahogaralegria.org/en/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Casa Hogar Alegria\u003c/a>, which aims to help girls in unstable homes.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Cao couldn't let it go, and that's how \u003ca href=\"https://www.kokorospirits.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kokoro Spirits\u003c/a> got started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting a tequila brand is a long process. First, in order to be called tequila, there's a geographically specific certification process similar to that of wine in Italy and France. To bear the name of the spirit, versus being called an agave-derived liquor, the blue agave has to be grown in one of five states and certified by \u003ca href=\"https://www.thrillist.com/drink/nation/tequila-terms-you-should-know\">The Tequila Regulatory Council\u003c/a> (CRT)— Jalisco, parts of Guanjuato, Tamaulipas, Michoacán and Nayarit. On top of that, there are other standards that are set by the (CRT). Beyond that, there's finding a distiller, working within U.S. guidelines and trying to change people's perspectives around the spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cao admits that he didn't know much about tequila when he first began this journey. \"I'm a kid from Nebraska, so my palate for all this stuff is not as sophisticated as if I were growing up on the West Coast,\" says Cao. \"All of this was a great learning experience for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers going down to Guadalajara going through tasting after tasting to try to find the perfect tequila for his brand. At the time, he wanted to produce an extra añejo, which is a designation of tequilas that are aged in oak barrels for at least three years. But then, he tasted a blanco, and that was his \"aha\" moment. Blancos are probably the type of tequila that most people are familiar with. Unlike the añejo or reposada, this tequila lacks color and isn't aged more than 50 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Cao, this particular blanco felt like a true representation of tequila. It wasn't fire-and-water, but very floral with apple notes and a kiss of pineapple. He asked the master distiller which of her tequilas made her the most proud. \"She told me the blanco because she had full control over it,\" says Cao. \"She said once it hits the wood (the barrels used for aging), I don't have a lot of control over it.\" That night, he recalls that he couldn't sleep because he made a big decision to make a blanco as his first spirit for the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the end, Cao is really happy with his decision. He says, with the other versions of tequila, the finished product ends up losing a lot of its agave qualities. The whole process took about three years, but on Oct. 10, Cao finally\u003ca href=\"https://www.kokorospirits.com/\"> launched Kokoro Spirits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even before the pandemic, Cao knew he wanted to have a direct-to-consumer model, and his small-batch brand is also in the process of becoming a certified B corporation, benefiting the \u003ca href=\"https://www.usbgfoundation.org/hdrf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">United States Bartenders Guild Helen David Relief Fund\u003c/a>, which supports those in the industry battling breast cancer, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.casahogaralegria.org/en/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Casa Hogar Alegria\u003c/a>, which aims to help girls in unstable homes.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]T[/dropcap]he social contract behind mutual aid is simple and elegant. It’s a system of engaging with one another rooted in the belief that survival is a communal project as opposed to an individual one. Six months deep into a pandemic, this is the value proliferating impactful reciprocal networks that match exigent needs with specific and timely responses. There’s very likely a network operating in your neighborhood, offering grocery and pharmacy runs and deliveries, mental health check-ins and other forms of support. Before COVID-19, the term might’ve only rung a bell in anti-capitalist circles, but these days, news outlets round up mutual aid projects as glimmers of positivity and ask if this mode of organizing will outlast the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As both the term “mutual aid” and its mode of community engagement become mainstream, there’s the creeping risk of co-optation or rather, a corrosion to its meaning. Mutual aid is not a corporate medium nor can it live inside the charitable non-profit model. It’s not scalable or \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“productivizeable” by the tech economy. Mutual aid’s values live in a specific, non-hierarchical and symbiotic exchange of care for which capitalism makes no space.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag='ruth-gebreyesus' label='More From Ruth Gebreyesus']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]I[/dropcap]n the realm of food, the most recent and visible mutual aid efforts come in the form of free community fridges maintained and stocked by volunteers in various cities across the country. These fridges showcase a different sort of social concern for others compared to the world of food-centered charity, where even giving away your leftovers could count as a gracious act. These fridges emphasize both quality and cultural specificity of the food stocked and offered by and for the community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first occasion I came across one was in early June when Zenat Begum, owner of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://playgroundcoffeeshop.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Playground Coffee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Brooklyn, put out a free fridge in front of her coffee shop filled with colorful fruits and vegetables after downsizing her shop’s operations. A more recent effort in the Bay Area comes from Cheetah, a San Francisco based wholesale food supplier which exclusively supplied restaurants but has pivoted to include a direct-to-consumer grocery service since the pandemic. The company has put up several fridges across the region that are stocked from inventory it wasn't able to sell to restaurants and customers and that food pantries wouldn't take due to their own demands and restrictions. It reminds me of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/aug/29/whitney-museum-black-artists-controversy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Whitney Museum’s now-cancelled show\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> wherein the museum planned to exhibit works by Black artists who sold their prints for $100 towards mutual aid funds. Cheetah rerouting its self-created food waste through a mutual aid model feels just as flagrant. When well-monied organizations like the Whitney or Cheetah, the latter which raised $36 million this spring rounding out its total investments to nearly \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://news.crunchbase.com/news/from-b2b-to-d2c-cheetah-raises-36m-for-contactless-food-pickup-delivery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$68 million\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, interact with mutual aid projects, they distort them. The mutuality is lopsided. It reads like publicity strategy rather than honest participation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before Cheetah’s fridges went up in the East and South Bay, the Bay Area had a few existing community-led free fridge projects. In late June, a growing collective of volunteers called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/townfridge/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Town Fridge\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> placed a fridge in West Oakland. Since their first location, the project has expanded to ten fridges across different corners of the town. Along with guidelines on how to label and stock food, Town Fridges bears the following: “This isn’t charity. This is mutual aid.” That distinction is important to consider. Charity, with its sympathetic ambitions and a disturbing attachment to the virtue of that sympathy, is entirely oppositional to mutual aid. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> In the case of charity, the power dynamics that lend to disparity are maintained—some people have enough to give abundantly to charity and for that, they are rewarded through tax breaks and commemorative artifacts of gratitude. And the deservedness of those in need is evaluated, their progress documented and often paraded as a signal of virtue for donors. The two groups, the donors and those in need of what’s being given, rarely if ever share communal space. This physical segregation is integral to the structure of charity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CC5EcVshBvH/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[dropcap]T[/dropcap]he power of mutual aid is the intimacy of its participants with the disparity that requires their work. The Black Panther Party had an exemplary list of mutual aid programs they termed \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.itsabouttimebpp.com/Survival_Programs/survival_programs.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Survival Programs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Free breakfast for school-aged children, commissary for those incarcerated, distribution of free clothes and shoes, free medical services and safety programs from armed patrols of police and transportation to assure the safety of senior citizens, just to name a few. Responding to specific needs by directing specific capacity is the organizing mode of mutual aid, and the Panthers met these needs to ensure the survival of Black life which continues to be left out of the design of social and legislative care. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If there are gaps between the community’s needs and the capacity of volunteers, mutual aid efforts tend to build bridges. This was the case with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sfcommunityfridge/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SF Community Fridge\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a free fridge effort that launched in the Mission in July whose founding volunteers felt it best to partner with existing local organizations who worked in food equity. They found exactly that in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://missionmealscoalition.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mission Meals Coalition\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, itself a mutual aid network that connects members of the community to essential resources. Through this collaboration, SF Community Fridge moved locations of its fridge some blocks to better meet the need and included a shopping list that assures that the food stocked in the fridge is culturally relevant to the community it seeks to serve. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">However clear the contours of present and past mutual aid efforts and its methods, corporate creep into that domain has arrived. Cheetah states that it was inspired by free fridges run by mutual aid models in Los Angeles and Oakland to start its own version. “We wanted to figure out some sort of way to get [food waste] down to zero, and that's how we thought of the fridge campaign,” explained Alexa Weiser, a program manager at the company. Weiser said the company donates to food pantries regularly and for its fridges, it partners with organizations and families who host the fridges. While encouraging others to do the same, Cheetah stocks and maintains the fridge once a week with its surplus food. The company does not cover electricity costs. Weiser also explained that Cheetah paid local artists to paint these fridges, which also sport a Cheetah logo. “The intent of [the logo] is to let people know about another resource where they can get wholesale prices,” Weiser said. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Late last month, Governor Gavin Newsom thanked a group of Israeli firefighters who came to California to tame August’s wildfires. “Mutual aid is a beautiful example of people from all backgrounds and communities coming together to help one another,” his \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/gavinnewsom/status/1300592616178765824?lang=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">post reads\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. This diplomatic relationship between Israel and California is not mutual aid. And though I’m not convinced there’s any use in policing the vocabularies of political leaders and corporations, it’s grating to be witness to this appropriation. What, for example, would it look like for Cheetah to give what they can and take what they need? Certainly not four fridges across the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Adapting the values of mutual aid, instead of the terminology, would require so much more undoing of power and demystifying lores of individualism and exceptionalism—the beliefs that some of us have and others have not by the grace of work, or chance, but instead because of disparities maintained by economic, political and cultural institutions. Mutual aid efforts like community fridges live in the margins of these institutions' myths, sowing their own tale. Theirs is a story whose moral is that the distribution of resources across the world is imbalanced and one way to dissolve that disparity is by truly giving what you can and taking whatever it is you need. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">T\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>he social contract behind mutual aid is simple and elegant. It’s a system of engaging with one another rooted in the belief that survival is a communal project as opposed to an individual one. Six months deep into a pandemic, this is the value proliferating impactful reciprocal networks that match exigent needs with specific and timely responses. There’s very likely a network operating in your neighborhood, offering grocery and pharmacy runs and deliveries, mental health check-ins and other forms of support. Before COVID-19, the term might’ve only rung a bell in anti-capitalist circles, but these days, news outlets round up mutual aid projects as glimmers of positivity and ask if this mode of organizing will outlast the pandemic.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As both the term “mutual aid” and its mode of community engagement become mainstream, there’s the creeping risk of co-optation or rather, a corrosion to its meaning. Mutual aid is not a corporate medium nor can it live inside the charitable non-profit model. It’s not scalable or \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“productivizeable” by the tech economy. Mutual aid’s values live in a specific, non-hierarchical and symbiotic exchange of care for which capitalism makes no space.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>n the realm of food, the most recent and visible mutual aid efforts come in the form of free community fridges maintained and stocked by volunteers in various cities across the country. These fridges showcase a different sort of social concern for others compared to the world of food-centered charity, where even giving away your leftovers could count as a gracious act. These fridges emphasize both quality and cultural specificity of the food stocked and offered by and for the community. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first occasion I came across one was in early June when Zenat Begum, owner of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://playgroundcoffeeshop.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Playground Coffee\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Brooklyn, put out a free fridge in front of her coffee shop filled with colorful fruits and vegetables after downsizing her shop’s operations. A more recent effort in the Bay Area comes from Cheetah, a San Francisco based wholesale food supplier which exclusively supplied restaurants but has pivoted to include a direct-to-consumer grocery service since the pandemic. The company has put up several fridges across the region that are stocked from inventory it wasn't able to sell to restaurants and customers and that food pantries wouldn't take due to their own demands and restrictions. It reminds me of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/aug/29/whitney-museum-black-artists-controversy\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">the Whitney Museum’s now-cancelled show\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> wherein the museum planned to exhibit works by Black artists who sold their prints for $100 towards mutual aid funds. Cheetah rerouting its self-created food waste through a mutual aid model feels just as flagrant. When well-monied organizations like the Whitney or Cheetah, the latter which raised $36 million this spring rounding out its total investments to nearly \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://news.crunchbase.com/news/from-b2b-to-d2c-cheetah-raises-36m-for-contactless-food-pickup-delivery/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$68 million\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, interact with mutual aid projects, they distort them. The mutuality is lopsided. It reads like publicity strategy rather than honest participation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before Cheetah’s fridges went up in the East and South Bay, the Bay Area had a few existing community-led free fridge projects. In late June, a growing collective of volunteers called \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/townfridge/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Town Fridge\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> placed a fridge in West Oakland. Since their first location, the project has expanded to ten fridges across different corners of the town. Along with guidelines on how to label and stock food, Town Fridges bears the following: “This isn’t charity. This is mutual aid.” That distinction is important to consider. Charity, with its sympathetic ambitions and a disturbing attachment to the virtue of that sympathy, is entirely oppositional to mutual aid. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> In the case of charity, the power dynamics that lend to disparity are maintained—some people have enough to give abundantly to charity and for that, they are rewarded through tax breaks and commemorative artifacts of gratitude. And the deservedness of those in need is evaluated, their progress documented and often paraded as a signal of virtue for donors. The two groups, the donors and those in need of what’s being given, rarely if ever share communal space. This physical segregation is integral to the structure of charity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">T\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>he power of mutual aid is the intimacy of its participants with the disparity that requires their work. The Black Panther Party had an exemplary list of mutual aid programs they termed \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.itsabouttimebpp.com/Survival_Programs/survival_programs.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Survival Programs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Free breakfast for school-aged children, commissary for those incarcerated, distribution of free clothes and shoes, free medical services and safety programs from armed patrols of police and transportation to assure the safety of senior citizens, just to name a few. Responding to specific needs by directing specific capacity is the organizing mode of mutual aid, and the Panthers met these needs to ensure the survival of Black life which continues to be left out of the design of social and legislative care. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If there are gaps between the community’s needs and the capacity of volunteers, mutual aid efforts tend to build bridges. This was the case with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/sfcommunityfridge/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">SF Community Fridge\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a free fridge effort that launched in the Mission in July whose founding volunteers felt it best to partner with existing local organizations who worked in food equity. They found exactly that in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://missionmealscoalition.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mission Meals Coalition\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, itself a mutual aid network that connects members of the community to essential resources. Through this collaboration, SF Community Fridge moved locations of its fridge some blocks to better meet the need and included a shopping list that assures that the food stocked in the fridge is culturally relevant to the community it seeks to serve. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">However clear the contours of present and past mutual aid efforts and its methods, corporate creep into that domain has arrived. Cheetah states that it was inspired by free fridges run by mutual aid models in Los Angeles and Oakland to start its own version. “We wanted to figure out some sort of way to get [food waste] down to zero, and that's how we thought of the fridge campaign,” explained Alexa Weiser, a program manager at the company. Weiser said the company donates to food pantries regularly and for its fridges, it partners with organizations and families who host the fridges. While encouraging others to do the same, Cheetah stocks and maintains the fridge once a week with its surplus food. The company does not cover electricity costs. Weiser also explained that Cheetah paid local artists to paint these fridges, which also sport a Cheetah logo. “The intent of [the logo] is to let people know about another resource where they can get wholesale prices,” Weiser said. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Late last month, Governor Gavin Newsom thanked a group of Israeli firefighters who came to California to tame August’s wildfires. “Mutual aid is a beautiful example of people from all backgrounds and communities coming together to help one another,” his \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/gavinnewsom/status/1300592616178765824?lang=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">post reads\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. This diplomatic relationship between Israel and California is not mutual aid. And though I’m not convinced there’s any use in policing the vocabularies of political leaders and corporations, it’s grating to be witness to this appropriation. What, for example, would it look like for Cheetah to give what they can and take what they need? Certainly not four fridges across the Bay Area. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Adapting the values of mutual aid, instead of the terminology, would require so much more undoing of power and demystifying lores of individualism and exceptionalism—the beliefs that some of us have and others have not by the grace of work, or chance, but instead because of disparities maintained by economic, political and cultural institutions. Mutual aid efforts like community fridges live in the margins of these institutions' myths, sowing their own tale. Theirs is a story whose moral is that the distribution of resources across the world is imbalanced and one way to dissolve that disparity is by truly giving what you can and taking whatever it is you need. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up, I loved Maruchan’s Instant Ramen noodles in a cup, specifically the shrimp flavor. I loved how they were portable, cheap and easy to make—just pour boiling water over them and wait for them to cook. Salt and pepper were the only seasonings I used to enhance my ramen. Though they weren’t much, I felt like that perfect duo took my noodles to another level. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All that changed when I entered high school. One day at lunch, the usual massive line of cool kids ditched the packaged, unflavored school lunch for ramen noodles in a cup. Displayed on the microwave table near the lunch table was an array of spices and flavorings beyond my trusted salt and pepper: Latin brands of hot sauce and a green bottle of squeezable lemon juice. My eyes widened as I watched my peers douse their noodles with these spicy, sour ingredients. My friend, who stood next to me, even sprinkled a few Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on her noodles. I quickly became curious about trying it on my own unflavored cup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After studying peers who went before me, I followed suit and added a good amount of hot sauce and lemon juice. I stirred the noodles around slowly to ensure that every noodle was equally coated, with specks of hot sauce floating around the broth. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138979\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Array of instant ramen noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Chriss / Unsplash\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I twirled the noodles with my plastic fork and took a bite. My world turned into that scene from \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ratatouille \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">where Remy discovered flavor combinations for the very first time. The saltiness from the broth was balanced nicely with the acidity of the lemon juice. The hot sauce tingled on my tongue right after saltiness and acidity dissipated. From that moment, I was a convert. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As I’ve gotten older, I've discovered many methods to dress my instant ramen: sauteed garlic pepper prawns, fried sunny side up eggs, teriyaki salmon skewers with sesame seeds—I’ve tried them all. Elevating this simple cup of noodles, so familiar and comfortable, offered a permission for curiosity and ways to explore more new flavor combinations—with the exception of the sprinkled Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on my ramen. I don’t think I'll ever be convinced to try that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up, I loved Maruchan’s Instant Ramen noodles in a cup, specifically the shrimp flavor. I loved how they were portable, cheap and easy to make—just pour boiling water over them and wait for them to cook. Salt and pepper were the only seasonings I used to enhance my ramen. Though they weren’t much, I felt like that perfect duo took my noodles to another level. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All that changed when I entered high school. One day at lunch, the usual massive line of cool kids ditched the packaged, unflavored school lunch for ramen noodles in a cup. Displayed on the microwave table near the lunch table was an array of spices and flavorings beyond my trusted salt and pepper: Latin brands of hot sauce and a green bottle of squeezable lemon juice. My eyes widened as I watched my peers douse their noodles with these spicy, sour ingredients. My friend, who stood next to me, even sprinkled a few Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on her noodles. I quickly became curious about trying it on my own unflavored cup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After studying peers who went before me, I followed suit and added a good amount of hot sauce and lemon juice. I stirred the noodles around slowly to ensure that every noodle was equally coated, with specks of hot sauce floating around the broth. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138979\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Array of instant ramen noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Chriss / Unsplash\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I twirled the noodles with my plastic fork and took a bite. My world turned into that scene from \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ratatouille \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">where Remy discovered flavor combinations for the very first time. The saltiness from the broth was balanced nicely with the acidity of the lemon juice. The hot sauce tingled on my tongue right after saltiness and acidity dissipated. From that moment, I was a convert. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "How Colonialism Brought a New Evolution of Pasta to East Africa",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A starch paired with another starch is an already dubious inclination, but spaghetti laced with a berbere-fortified tomato sauce and served on injera is even more so. The two carbs, one splayed flat with the other piled in a nest on top, appear to be unnatural companions on a plate. Yet the occurrence of this pairing in Ethiopian restaurants and homes qualifies this as a dish worth considering. And that consideration leads to a conversation about colonialism. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italy’s colonial interest in East Africa spread from present-day Eritrea, down the coast of the Red Sea to Somalia and inland to Ethiopia. From the late-19th century to the 1940s, these territories were seized, ruled or occupied. Italy’s monarchy, then its fascist regime, carried out massacres and the subjugation and segregation of people whose land they sought to make their own. If spaghetti appeared in this corner of the world before, this bloody period is one that guaranteed its stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Somalia, a particular kind of spaghetti dish is ubiquitous. Those noodles are served with suugo suqaar, an often meat-enriched,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/jul/14/recipe-that-reminds-me-of-home-souvlaki-somali-bean-stew\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> xawaash\u003c/span>\u003c/a>-\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">spiced tomato sauce. As with other savory dishes from the coastal nation, a banana is offered on the side to be peeled, chopped and distributed throughout the warmly-spiced pasta, adding both a sweet note and a different texture of starchiness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In both East African iterations of spaghetti, the preparation and presentation firmly bend the Italian dish towards centuries-old local tastes. The interventions at play, of spices and other starches, have no allegiance to European techniques. This defiance tells a particular story about food’s movement across cultural and national margins. Appropriation is a mode of transit we see often lamented in cultural writing—an erasure of authorship often followed by manufacturing at a capitalistic pace and design. Spaghetti on injera or with suugo suqaar are born out of a different modality: the absorption of a cultural product introduced by abject violence and forced occupation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/LFmmQ4G9xk4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s something about pasta’s bipartite composition of noodles and sauce that takes well to modifications and possibilities. There’s also what writer Hannah Giorgis called a “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tastecooking.com/ethiopian-diasporas-long-history-lasagna/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">culinary rebellion\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” when she wrote about lasagna’s ubiquitous presence among a sea of indigenous fare at Eritrean and Ethiopian gatherings. As Giorgis described it, lasagna in East Africa is a richly spiced, conservatively cheesed version—all revisions that honor the local appetites. It’d be unfair to say all of these choices are political by intention. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138988\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a meat and vegetable dish at Somali restaurant Jubba\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the dishes at Jubba in San Jose. \u003ccite>(KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At San Jose’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=jubba+kqed&oq=jubba+kqed&aqs=chrome..69i57.2640j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jubba\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Bay Area’s only brick-and-mortar Somali restaurant, you’ll find a menu reflecting the country’s various influences that drifted in via its ports and trading partners. Blending flavors from South Asia, the Middle East and neighboring African nations, Italy’s coercive history in the region lives in the baasto suugo suqaar on the menu. Jubba’s version features tomato paste, tomato sauce, bell peppers, onions, garlic, cilantro and xawaash, a blend of aromatic spices including cinnamon, cumin and cardamom, among others. “It’s a really robust pasta,” said Jubba cook Antonio Gomez, who worked at an Italian restaurant kitchen before joining the kitchen at the South Bay eatery two years ago. “It’s unique. You don’t get that flavor in Italian pasta.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/LTsXeRFMaM/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Owner Amina Nur’s daughter, Leyla Mohamed, has her preferences when it comes to the dish, which can be served with beef, chicken or meat-free. “I like the tuna suugo and my family likes it with ground beef,” Mohamed said. Asked about the Somali’s transformation of Italian pasta, Mohamed sees it simply: “We like flavorful [food]. So it gives it extra flavor instead of it being plain.” Hence the spices, the banana and sometimes even a squeeze of lime juice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first instance of an injera-swaddled pasta bite likely came as a circumstance of the two things sharing a plate. A noodle slinking away into a bite of injera and wot. Now, this combination is something that can be ordered at a restaurant where pasta shares equal real estate with native stews and greens on one platter. Suugo with pasta similarly shares a plate and flavor profiles with Somali-born dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The source of pasta of course can never be obfuscated and that isn't a righteous venture. The casual way that pasta dishes in East Africa are enjoyed, their \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">juxtapositions of starches and histories, don't rely on that rememberance. Rather historical harms are inoculated from the plate by the imposition of local preferences on foreign ingredients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A starch paired with another starch is an already dubious inclination, but spaghetti laced with a berbere-fortified tomato sauce and served on injera is even more so. The two carbs, one splayed flat with the other piled in a nest on top, appear to be unnatural companions on a plate. Yet the occurrence of this pairing in Ethiopian restaurants and homes qualifies this as a dish worth considering. And that consideration leads to a conversation about colonialism. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italy’s colonial interest in East Africa spread from present-day Eritrea, down the coast of the Red Sea to Somalia and inland to Ethiopia. From the late-19th century to the 1940s, these territories were seized, ruled or occupied. Italy’s monarchy, then its fascist regime, carried out massacres and the subjugation and segregation of people whose land they sought to make their own. If spaghetti appeared in this corner of the world before, this bloody period is one that guaranteed its stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/LFmmQ4G9xk4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/LFmmQ4G9xk4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s something about pasta’s bipartite composition of noodles and sauce that takes well to modifications and possibilities. There’s also what writer Hannah Giorgis called a “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tastecooking.com/ethiopian-diasporas-long-history-lasagna/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">culinary rebellion\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” when she wrote about lasagna’s ubiquitous presence among a sea of indigenous fare at Eritrean and Ethiopian gatherings. As Giorgis described it, lasagna in East Africa is a richly spiced, conservatively cheesed version—all revisions that honor the local appetites. It’d be unfair to say all of these choices are political by intention. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138988\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a meat and vegetable dish at Somali restaurant Jubba\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the dishes at Jubba in San Jose. \u003ccite>(KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At San Jose’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=jubba+kqed&oq=jubba+kqed&aqs=chrome..69i57.2640j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jubba\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Bay Area’s only brick-and-mortar Somali restaurant, you’ll find a menu reflecting the country’s various influences that drifted in via its ports and trading partners. Blending flavors from South Asia, the Middle East and neighboring African nations, Italy’s coercive history in the region lives in the baasto suugo suqaar on the menu. Jubba’s version features tomato paste, tomato sauce, bell peppers, onions, garlic, cilantro and xawaash, a blend of aromatic spices including cinnamon, cumin and cardamom, among others. “It’s a really robust pasta,” said Jubba cook Antonio Gomez, who worked at an Italian restaurant kitchen before joining the kitchen at the South Bay eatery two years ago. “It’s unique. You don’t get that flavor in Italian pasta.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Owner Amina Nur’s daughter, Leyla Mohamed, has her preferences when it comes to the dish, which can be served with beef, chicken or meat-free. “I like the tuna suugo and my family likes it with ground beef,” Mohamed said. Asked about the Somali’s transformation of Italian pasta, Mohamed sees it simply: “We like flavorful [food]. So it gives it extra flavor instead of it being plain.” Hence the spices, the banana and sometimes even a squeeze of lime juice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first instance of an injera-swaddled pasta bite likely came as a circumstance of the two things sharing a plate. A noodle slinking away into a bite of injera and wot. Now, this combination is something that can be ordered at a restaurant where pasta shares equal real estate with native stews and greens on one platter. Suugo with pasta similarly shares a plate and flavor profiles with Somali-born dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The source of pasta of course can never be obfuscated and that isn't a righteous venture. The casual way that pasta dishes in East Africa are enjoyed, their \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">juxtapositions of starches and histories, don't rely on that rememberance. Rather historical harms are inoculated from the plate by the imposition of local preferences on foreign ingredients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Reliable Comfort of Jajangmyeon",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My first encounter with jajangmyeon was a revelatory experience. Two years ago, I was in Seoul with my grandmother, eating our way through her home city\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when we ended up on a dedicated noodle journey. Yesterday’s lunch had been a chilled metal bowl of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://seonkyounglongest.com/naengmyeon/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">naengmyeon\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, extremely chewy buckwheat noodles served in a cold beef broth punched up with acidic kimchi juice and chalky slices of hard boiled egg. The day before, sweating in the June humidity at a stall in Gwangjang market, we’d slurped down \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://kimchimari.com/kalguksu-korean-knife-cut-noodle-soup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kal guksu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, knife cut noodles served with beef broth, carrots, cabbage, and shredded toasted seaweed on top. Just when I was certain there was no room left in my heart, or stomach, for another breathtaking bowl of noodles, we went to a fancy Chinese restaurant in Gangnam. The host led us to our table in a darkly lit room filled with stylish people in designer clothes and my grandmother ordered us heaping bowls of jajangmyeon. We tucked our napkins into our shirt collars and dug our chopsticks in to mix the noodles until they were slick with black sauce. The hand-pulled noodles were balanced: not too thick, gummy, or ethereal, with a bouncy chew. My grandmother and I slurped our bowls clean, waddled back to our Airbnb, and spent the rest of the trip talking about how incredible those noodles were. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not an exaggeration to say that I could write sonnets about jajangmyeon. The elements are all there: toothsome, chewy noodles topped with chunjang, a thick fermented black bean sauce cooked with small pieces of fatty pork, zucchini, and onion. The glossy sauce is adorned with crunchy, electric-yellow pickled danmuji (daikon), raw white onion, and matchstick cut cucumber. The richness of the chunjang, rivaling that of a slow-cooked bolognese, is balanced by the sweet acidity of danmuji cutting through the savoriness like a breath of fresh air. To me jajangmyeon is a comfort food to end all comfort foods, a healing salve for all occasions. It’s for filling a cavernously empty stomach, for soothing period cramps, and for nights when the world sits too heavily on your shoulders. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139175\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139175\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Granddaughter and grandmother eating\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olivia and her grandmother \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Won)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In my experience noodles are remarkable starting points for larger conversations about cultural history, politics, and diaspora. That naengmyeon lunch led to a discussion about the dish’s North Korean origin and my grandmother’s thoughts on reunification. Photos of kal guksu yielded a 30-minute lecture from my father about how wheat-based noodles became popularized during the Korean war, when American wheat flour was distributed with rations. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jajangmyeon proves to be no different, as its nation-spanning origins can spark feisty debates about the dish’s cultural heritage. The dish arrived in Korea when Chinese immigrants brought Shandong-style zhajiangmian to Incheon. From its diasporic beginnings, the Koreanized Chinese dish evolved in context to become a unique phenomenon in Korean culture. Popularly eaten on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2019/04/introduction-to-black-day.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Day\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> —the anti-Valentine’s holiday for sad singles— the dish is the most common takeout food in the nation. It has also spawned an extremely gushy \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfG93JVUAiw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">subgenre of ASMR mukbangs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Regardless of how you choose to classify jajangmyeon, the dish in mainstream Bay Area food culture still lives in shocking anonymity. You can order jajangmyeon at Chinese, Korean and Korean-Chinese restaurants under its many names (meat sauce noodles, zha jiang mian, jajangmyeon) and determine which interpretation best satisfies your particular palate (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/best-places-to-get-zha-jiang-mian-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-b5f8d8480c83\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">one writer, driven by a craving much like mine, did so for restaurants in San Francisco)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As months of pandemic-induced isolation ticked by and my mental health increasingly deteriorated, the specter of my perfect bowl of jajangmyeon began to haunt me. I followed \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/jjajangmyeon\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maangchi’s recipe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to make decent at-home versions, but they never quite hit the spot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Everything changed when a friend directed me to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/yu-yu-za-zang-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yu Yu Za Zang\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Telegraph Ave in Oakland. I must have driven by the storefront hundreds of times on frequent trips to Koreana Plaza throughout my life, but I had overlooked it, even with the neon lettering in the window displaying the dish’s name in hangul (of course, when I asked my grandmother if she had tried this spot, it turned out that it’s her preferred restaurant in Oakland for jajangmyeon). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its takeout form from Yu Yu Za Zang, the dish comes with sauce and noodles in separate containers, radish and onion fixings in tiny plastic cups. I mixed the noodles and promptly splattered black sauce everywhere with furious slurping. I had found my glass slipper, my ideal jajangmyeon, hidden in plain sight just a few blocks from my apartment. It was a rom-com moment of falling in love with the person next-door, but with noodles. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dish’s allure comes from the comforting assurance that even during the worst of times, the perfect noodles, with their magic power to soothe all ailments, can be slurped down while ugly-crying in pajamas. Jajangmyeon may elude easy classification, but when it exists somewhere out there, there is the certain promise of feeling okay. Because when one’s belly is full of noodles, it’s easier to believe that better days will come.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My first encounter with jajangmyeon was a revelatory experience. Two years ago, I was in Seoul with my grandmother, eating our way through her home city\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when we ended up on a dedicated noodle journey. Yesterday’s lunch had been a chilled metal bowl of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://seonkyounglongest.com/naengmyeon/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">naengmyeon\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, extremely chewy buckwheat noodles served in a cold beef broth punched up with acidic kimchi juice and chalky slices of hard boiled egg. The day before, sweating in the June humidity at a stall in Gwangjang market, we’d slurped down \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://kimchimari.com/kalguksu-korean-knife-cut-noodle-soup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kal guksu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, knife cut noodles served with beef broth, carrots, cabbage, and shredded toasted seaweed on top. Just when I was certain there was no room left in my heart, or stomach, for another breathtaking bowl of noodles, we went to a fancy Chinese restaurant in Gangnam. The host led us to our table in a darkly lit room filled with stylish people in designer clothes and my grandmother ordered us heaping bowls of jajangmyeon. We tucked our napkins into our shirt collars and dug our chopsticks in to mix the noodles until they were slick with black sauce. The hand-pulled noodles were balanced: not too thick, gummy, or ethereal, with a bouncy chew. My grandmother and I slurped our bowls clean, waddled back to our Airbnb, and spent the rest of the trip talking about how incredible those noodles were. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not an exaggeration to say that I could write sonnets about jajangmyeon. The elements are all there: toothsome, chewy noodles topped with chunjang, a thick fermented black bean sauce cooked with small pieces of fatty pork, zucchini, and onion. The glossy sauce is adorned with crunchy, electric-yellow pickled danmuji (daikon), raw white onion, and matchstick cut cucumber. The richness of the chunjang, rivaling that of a slow-cooked bolognese, is balanced by the sweet acidity of danmuji cutting through the savoriness like a breath of fresh air. To me jajangmyeon is a comfort food to end all comfort foods, a healing salve for all occasions. It’s for filling a cavernously empty stomach, for soothing period cramps, and for nights when the world sits too heavily on your shoulders. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139175\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139175\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Granddaughter and grandmother eating\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olivia and her grandmother \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Won)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In my experience noodles are remarkable starting points for larger conversations about cultural history, politics, and diaspora. That naengmyeon lunch led to a discussion about the dish’s North Korean origin and my grandmother’s thoughts on reunification. Photos of kal guksu yielded a 30-minute lecture from my father about how wheat-based noodles became popularized during the Korean war, when American wheat flour was distributed with rations. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jajangmyeon proves to be no different, as its nation-spanning origins can spark feisty debates about the dish’s cultural heritage. The dish arrived in Korea when Chinese immigrants brought Shandong-style zhajiangmian to Incheon. From its diasporic beginnings, the Koreanized Chinese dish evolved in context to become a unique phenomenon in Korean culture. Popularly eaten on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2019/04/introduction-to-black-day.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Day\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> —the anti-Valentine’s holiday for sad singles— the dish is the most common takeout food in the nation. It has also spawned an extremely gushy \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfG93JVUAiw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">subgenre of ASMR mukbangs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Regardless of how you choose to classify jajangmyeon, the dish in mainstream Bay Area food culture still lives in shocking anonymity. You can order jajangmyeon at Chinese, Korean and Korean-Chinese restaurants under its many names (meat sauce noodles, zha jiang mian, jajangmyeon) and determine which interpretation best satisfies your particular palate (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/best-places-to-get-zha-jiang-mian-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-b5f8d8480c83\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">one writer, driven by a craving much like mine, did so for restaurants in San Francisco)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As months of pandemic-induced isolation ticked by and my mental health increasingly deteriorated, the specter of my perfect bowl of jajangmyeon began to haunt me. I followed \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/jjajangmyeon\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maangchi’s recipe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to make decent at-home versions, but they never quite hit the spot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Everything changed when a friend directed me to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/yu-yu-za-zang-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yu Yu Za Zang\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Telegraph Ave in Oakland. I must have driven by the storefront hundreds of times on frequent trips to Koreana Plaza throughout my life, but I had overlooked it, even with the neon lettering in the window displaying the dish’s name in hangul (of course, when I asked my grandmother if she had tried this spot, it turned out that it’s her preferred restaurant in Oakland for jajangmyeon). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its takeout form from Yu Yu Za Zang, the dish comes with sauce and noodles in separate containers, radish and onion fixings in tiny plastic cups. I mixed the noodles and promptly splattered black sauce everywhere with furious slurping. I had found my glass slipper, my ideal jajangmyeon, hidden in plain sight just a few blocks from my apartment. It was a rom-com moment of falling in love with the person next-door, but with noodles. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dish’s allure comes from the comforting assurance that even during the worst of times, the perfect noodles, with their magic power to soothe all ailments, can be slurped down while ugly-crying in pajamas. Jajangmyeon may elude easy classification, but when it exists somewhere out there, there is the certain promise of feeling okay. Because when one’s belly is full of noodles, it’s easier to believe that better days will come.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Science (and Magic) of Egg Noodles",
"title": "The Science (and Magic) of Egg Noodles",
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"content": "\u003cp>I was a biochemist before becoming a chef. So I write this as a skeptical scientist: A bowl of pasta has an almost magical quality. Hidden in plain sight are layers of flavor, technique, thoughtfulness, science, exploration and love that reveal who we are as cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making fresh pasta can feel like an intimidating task. Most of us (including this pro) have experienced the awful frustration of fresh pasta gone awry. In fact, the worst night of my culinary career was punctuated by a failed pasta course ruined by a dried, cracked and unsalvageable egg pasta dough. As a result of that public failure, I realized that I had to learn more about the science of pasta\u003ca href=\"#1\">\u003csup>1\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp id=\"practicing\">So, I share my knowledge and experience from a place of great humility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139018\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-1020x774.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-160x121.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-768x583.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There's a science behind mixing eggs and flour together to create the perfect pasta. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The transformation of flour\u003ca href=\"#2\">\u003csup>2\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and eggs into a noodle begins with the thoughtful development of gluten. What we think of gluten is a mixture of two protein groups, gliadins and glutenins. Each contribute different but complementary chemical properties to the strength of the pasta dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gliadins provide viscosity and increased extensibility (the stretch of the dough). Glutenins gives the dough elasticity (the ability to return to its original shape after stretching).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139019\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139019\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg\" alt=\"fork whisking eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-1020x796.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-768x599.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a fork to whisk eggs can offer some precision and keep eggs within their flour well. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To fully exploit the properties of the gluten proteins and the egg’s chemistry, slowly incorporate the flour into the eggs\u003ca href=\"#3\">\u003csup>3\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. I use a fork and pretend I am making a\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wb5Crj917I\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> French omelet\u003c/a>. After the dough takes on a “Play-Doh” appearance, knead it. The natural rhythm of folding and pushing the dough increases the probability that the gluten proteins will interact with each other and with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.scienceofcooking.com/eggs/cooking-eggs-sous-vide.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">ovalbumin protein\u003c/a> from the egg. When exposed to the oxidative environment of ambient air, the sulfur containing cysteine amino acids in the gluten and egg ovalbumin protein form disulfide bonds with each other\u003ca href=\"#4\">\u003csup>4\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. These interactions are the basis of the gluten network characteristic of pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139020\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139020\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"fork mixing pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is what the dough will look like when all the flour has been incorporated. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139027\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ball of pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dough should eventually form into a ball like this. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the dough forms a stable but slight dry looking ball, vacuum seal it in a large bag\u003ca href=\"#5\">\u003csup>5\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. This step may seem, unnecessary especially when you consider people have crafted amazing handmade noodle for hundreds of years, but vacuum sealing enhances many of the dough’s chemical and physical characteristics. First, by decreasing the surface tension associated with air, vacuum sealing promotes even and more efficient hydration of the flour granules than kneading alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139028\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139028\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the dough looks like this, it's ready to vacuum seal. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Second, the dough’s strength is increased by removing the small air bubbles trapped in the dough. Third, the oxidation of egg yolk’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.livescience.com/52487-carotenoids.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">carotenoids\u003c/a> (lycopene, β‐carotene, lutein and vitamin A) is slowed thereby maintaining the dough’s deep golden hue for a longer period of time. And lastly, I really love the additional layers of sheen and silkiness vacuum sealing adds to the final pasta noodle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139035\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Vaccum sealed pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It might seem excessive, but vacuum sealing pasta dough has its scientific and culinary benefits, says Francis. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point the interlocked gluten and ovalbumin proteins are distributed randomly throughout dough. Rolling out the dough, folding and gradual thinning gives order and direction to the egg-fortified gluten network. If done properly, you can see and feel the rows of gluten form on a smooth silky elastic sheet of dough as it glides over your hands. The science behind an egg noodle is beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139023\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139023\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"sheeting pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis sheets his pasta dough. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I make this pasta dish at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.materialsandmethodssf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Materials+Methods\u003c/a> pop-up, I start by giving a demonstration on how to make fresh pasta. The demonstration is prelude to sharing my story of how transitioned from away my research science career towards becoming a chef. This dish explores my connection\u003ca href=\"#6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a>with eggs and cheese\u003ca href=\"#7\">\u003csup>7\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and is a platform to stack additional layers of depth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139021\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"bowl of pasta with cheese\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A good bowl of pasta comes down to ingredients. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fettuccinii\u003ca href=\"#8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a> hits a nice sweet spot: Thin enough to twirl, but wide enough to carry the eggy sauce along for the ride. Woven throughout the dish is smoke flavor layered in the form of smoked egg yolks\u003ca href=\"#9\">\u003csup>9\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>, slow rendered bacon\u003ca href=\"#10\">\u003csup>10\u003c/sup>,\u003c/a> and charcoal-activated Cyprus flake salt. When grated over the pasta, the egg yolks and bacon supply a subtle umami-rich smoke flavor that enhances the pasta’s egg flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruity arbequina olive oil not only prevents the fettuccini from sticking to each other, but also elevates the smoky notes with a subtle fruity heat that cuts through the richness of the egg. A custardy slow-cooked egg adorns the pasta. But it’s the salinity, texture and flavor of the charcoal-activated Cyprus sea salt that unlocks the egg’s rich beauty and unifies the whole dish. The pasta and eggs are covered in a snow of the deliciously nutty Esquirrou, a life-affirming sheep milk cheese from the French Basque region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of pasta with a fork\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This egg pasta dish evokes a playfulness. The joy of cutting into the slow cooked egg, and watching the yolk ooze out of it, is paired with the fun of tossing the pasta with runny egg and cheese until it becomes a cohesive slurp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond the playfulness is an overarching truth: I can passionately pursue my true love of cooking while retaining my identity as a scientist. And as a skeptical scientist, even I would say \u003cem>that’s \u003c/em>a pretty sweet magic trick!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch6>\u003csup>1 \u003c/sup>There are so many “perfect” egg pasta recipes, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. Most all of them are awesome. What I want to stress is that no matter what recipe you choose, focus on developing good technique. Learning how a proper dough should feel and taste. It sounds trite, but there is no substitution for practicing.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"2\">\u003csup>2 \u003c/sup>You can make an awesome pasta with any of these flours durum (semolina), AP, and “00”. Durum flour has the highest protein content, and “00” has the lowest. The dough will be enriched and fortified by proteins in the eggs, so obsessing about one over the other is not time well spent. The higher protein content of semolina, does however, allows for hydration with only water.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"3\">>\u003csup>3 \u003c/sup>At most restaurants I have worked in, we used a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, but at home I always employ the well method. Also I find using a scale and the metric measurements gives more consistent results and the are easier to scale or down. A decent scale is affordable, and even if it was not how much would you pay not divide a 1/8 of a tsp in half?\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"4\">>\u003csup>4 \u003c/sup>The majority of the protein in the egg white is ovalbumin at about 54% of total egg-white\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"5\">\u003csup>5 \u003c/sup>Almost any pasta dough can be made \u003cu>better by vacuum sealing\u003c/u>. Knead dough until it forms a stable ball then vacuum seal in a large bag. I typically let the dough rest for 4-12 hours before rolling out into sheets. 6 One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional kitchens.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"7\">\u003csup>7 \u003c/sup>\u003cu>Alpine cheeses\u003c/u>, like \u003cu>schallenberg\u003c/u>, \u003cu>hornbacher\u003c/u> or \u003cu>chällerhocker\u003c/u>, are some of my cherished flavors. They are wonderful on their own, and glorious in a French omelet (I was OCD about mastering those as well).\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup> I am not an absolutist about the rules of governing pasta and sauce\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"9\">\u003csup>9 \u003c/sup>Cure egg yolks (find recipes here or here) and cold smoke with cherry or pear wood smoke for 2 hours. It’s important to cold smoke as to not cook the yolks. I will say they are pretty tasty over charred asparagus.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"10\">\u003csup>10 \u003c/sup>Take a small slab (think like “credit card cut in half” size) from the meaty portion of smoky bacon and slow render it in the oven on low heat until it takes on a caramelized jerky appearance. Cool on a lint-free towel or over a wire rack. When finely grated, this will give you a clean, smoky, umami rich bacon flavor with eating tons of fat, but save the bacon fat anyway.\u003c/h6>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I was a biochemist before becoming a chef. So I write this as a skeptical scientist: A bowl of pasta has an almost magical quality. Hidden in plain sight are layers of flavor, technique, thoughtfulness, science, exploration and love that reveal who we are as cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making fresh pasta can feel like an intimidating task. Most of us (including this pro) have experienced the awful frustration of fresh pasta gone awry. In fact, the worst night of my culinary career was punctuated by a failed pasta course ruined by a dried, cracked and unsalvageable egg pasta dough. As a result of that public failure, I realized that I had to learn more about the science of pasta\u003ca href=\"#1\">\u003csup>1\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp id=\"practicing\">So, I share my knowledge and experience from a place of great humility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139018\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-1020x774.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-160x121.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-768x583.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There's a science behind mixing eggs and flour together to create the perfect pasta. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The transformation of flour\u003ca href=\"#2\">\u003csup>2\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and eggs into a noodle begins with the thoughtful development of gluten. What we think of gluten is a mixture of two protein groups, gliadins and glutenins. Each contribute different but complementary chemical properties to the strength of the pasta dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gliadins provide viscosity and increased extensibility (the stretch of the dough). Glutenins gives the dough elasticity (the ability to return to its original shape after stretching).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139019\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139019\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg\" alt=\"fork whisking eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-1020x796.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-768x599.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a fork to whisk eggs can offer some precision and keep eggs within their flour well. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To fully exploit the properties of the gluten proteins and the egg’s chemistry, slowly incorporate the flour into the eggs\u003ca href=\"#3\">\u003csup>3\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. I use a fork and pretend I am making a\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wb5Crj917I\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> French omelet\u003c/a>. After the dough takes on a “Play-Doh” appearance, knead it. The natural rhythm of folding and pushing the dough increases the probability that the gluten proteins will interact with each other and with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.scienceofcooking.com/eggs/cooking-eggs-sous-vide.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">ovalbumin protein\u003c/a> from the egg. When exposed to the oxidative environment of ambient air, the sulfur containing cysteine amino acids in the gluten and egg ovalbumin protein form disulfide bonds with each other\u003ca href=\"#4\">\u003csup>4\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. These interactions are the basis of the gluten network characteristic of pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139020\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139020\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"fork mixing pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is what the dough will look like when all the flour has been incorporated. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139027\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ball of pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dough should eventually form into a ball like this. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the dough forms a stable but slight dry looking ball, vacuum seal it in a large bag\u003ca href=\"#5\">\u003csup>5\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. This step may seem, unnecessary especially when you consider people have crafted amazing handmade noodle for hundreds of years, but vacuum sealing enhances many of the dough’s chemical and physical characteristics. First, by decreasing the surface tension associated with air, vacuum sealing promotes even and more efficient hydration of the flour granules than kneading alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139028\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139028\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the dough looks like this, it's ready to vacuum seal. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Second, the dough’s strength is increased by removing the small air bubbles trapped in the dough. Third, the oxidation of egg yolk’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.livescience.com/52487-carotenoids.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">carotenoids\u003c/a> (lycopene, β‐carotene, lutein and vitamin A) is slowed thereby maintaining the dough’s deep golden hue for a longer period of time. And lastly, I really love the additional layers of sheen and silkiness vacuum sealing adds to the final pasta noodle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139035\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Vaccum sealed pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It might seem excessive, but vacuum sealing pasta dough has its scientific and culinary benefits, says Francis. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point the interlocked gluten and ovalbumin proteins are distributed randomly throughout dough. Rolling out the dough, folding and gradual thinning gives order and direction to the egg-fortified gluten network. If done properly, you can see and feel the rows of gluten form on a smooth silky elastic sheet of dough as it glides over your hands. The science behind an egg noodle is beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139023\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139023\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"sheeting pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis sheets his pasta dough. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I make this pasta dish at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.materialsandmethodssf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Materials+Methods\u003c/a> pop-up, I start by giving a demonstration on how to make fresh pasta. The demonstration is prelude to sharing my story of how transitioned from away my research science career towards becoming a chef. This dish explores my connection\u003ca href=\"#6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a>with eggs and cheese\u003ca href=\"#7\">\u003csup>7\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and is a platform to stack additional layers of depth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139021\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"bowl of pasta with cheese\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A good bowl of pasta comes down to ingredients. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fettuccinii\u003ca href=\"#8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a> hits a nice sweet spot: Thin enough to twirl, but wide enough to carry the eggy sauce along for the ride. Woven throughout the dish is smoke flavor layered in the form of smoked egg yolks\u003ca href=\"#9\">\u003csup>9\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>, slow rendered bacon\u003ca href=\"#10\">\u003csup>10\u003c/sup>,\u003c/a> and charcoal-activated Cyprus flake salt. When grated over the pasta, the egg yolks and bacon supply a subtle umami-rich smoke flavor that enhances the pasta’s egg flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruity arbequina olive oil not only prevents the fettuccini from sticking to each other, but also elevates the smoky notes with a subtle fruity heat that cuts through the richness of the egg. A custardy slow-cooked egg adorns the pasta. But it’s the salinity, texture and flavor of the charcoal-activated Cyprus sea salt that unlocks the egg’s rich beauty and unifies the whole dish. The pasta and eggs are covered in a snow of the deliciously nutty Esquirrou, a life-affirming sheep milk cheese from the French Basque region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of pasta with a fork\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This egg pasta dish evokes a playfulness. The joy of cutting into the slow cooked egg, and watching the yolk ooze out of it, is paired with the fun of tossing the pasta with runny egg and cheese until it becomes a cohesive slurp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond the playfulness is an overarching truth: I can passionately pursue my true love of cooking while retaining my identity as a scientist. And as a skeptical scientist, even I would say \u003cem>that’s \u003c/em>a pretty sweet magic trick!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch6>\u003csup>1 \u003c/sup>There are so many “perfect” egg pasta recipes, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. Most all of them are awesome. What I want to stress is that no matter what recipe you choose, focus on developing good technique. Learning how a proper dough should feel and taste. It sounds trite, but there is no substitution for practicing.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"2\">\u003csup>2 \u003c/sup>You can make an awesome pasta with any of these flours durum (semolina), AP, and “00”. Durum flour has the highest protein content, and “00” has the lowest. The dough will be enriched and fortified by proteins in the eggs, so obsessing about one over the other is not time well spent. The higher protein content of semolina, does however, allows for hydration with only water.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"3\">>\u003csup>3 \u003c/sup>At most restaurants I have worked in, we used a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, but at home I always employ the well method. Also I find using a scale and the metric measurements gives more consistent results and the are easier to scale or down. A decent scale is affordable, and even if it was not how much would you pay not divide a 1/8 of a tsp in half?\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"4\">>\u003csup>4 \u003c/sup>The majority of the protein in the egg white is ovalbumin at about 54% of total egg-white\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"5\">\u003csup>5 \u003c/sup>Almost any pasta dough can be made \u003cu>better by vacuum sealing\u003c/u>. Knead dough until it forms a stable ball then vacuum seal in a large bag. I typically let the dough rest for 4-12 hours before rolling out into sheets. 6 One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional kitchens.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"7\">\u003csup>7 \u003c/sup>\u003cu>Alpine cheeses\u003c/u>, like \u003cu>schallenberg\u003c/u>, \u003cu>hornbacher\u003c/u> or \u003cu>chällerhocker\u003c/u>, are some of my cherished flavors. They are wonderful on their own, and glorious in a French omelet (I was OCD about mastering those as well).\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup> I am not an absolutist about the rules of governing pasta and sauce\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"9\">\u003csup>9 \u003c/sup>Cure egg yolks (find recipes here or here) and cold smoke with cherry or pear wood smoke for 2 hours. It’s important to cold smoke as to not cook the yolks. I will say they are pretty tasty over charred asparagus.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"10\">\u003csup>10 \u003c/sup>Take a small slab (think like “credit card cut in half” size) from the meaty portion of smoky bacon and slow render it in the oven on low heat until it takes on a caramelized jerky appearance. Cool on a lint-free towel or over a wire rack. When finely grated, this will give you a clean, smoky, umami rich bacon flavor with eating tons of fat, but save the bacon fat anyway.\u003c/h6>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Could Handmade Noodles Be the Next Sourdough Bread of the Pandemic?",
"title": "Could Handmade Noodles Be the Next Sourdough Bread of the Pandemic?",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back in April, when grocery shopping seemed especially precarious, I bought a 50-pound sack of flour about the size of the bag of kibble my Labrador goes through each month. Over the past five months, I’ve become proficient at feeding my sourdough starter and shaping loaves, and I find baking soothing. But we can’t live on bread alone; I’d have to find another use for all that flour. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Author Beth Bich Minh Nguyen, who relocated from Berkeley to Madison, Wisconsin, started making noodles back in April. Yaki udon is one of her kids’ favorite dinners, but the noodles were unavailable in stores. Since she often bakes cakes and pastries and has cranked out pasta in the past, she decided to try making the Japanese wheat noodle. “Udon is easier and faster, especially since I use my stand mixer to knead the dough,” said Nguyen, who couldn’t believe how easy and delicious it was. “The texture and chew! Also, the dough freezes well. So I’ve made udon numerous times now and may never go back!”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138997\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Recent heat waves were the breaking point for me. Turning on the oven was a non-starter. Maybe it was time to try making noodles? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">First, I checked with Sonoko Sakai. Before the pandemic, she was teaching in-person workshops in the Bay Area every two months—at the San Francisco Cooking School, Japanese Cultural Center, Pollinate Farms in Oakland and SHED in Healdsburg (which has since closed)—as well at her home in Los Angeles. Since shelter-in-place, she’s taught three soba webinars. Online teaching has posed some challenges; usually she provided specialized knives and rolling pins, as well as buckwheat flour from Japan that is especially fresh and finely milled for soba. Now, she mails ingredient kits to students and has adapted her technique for everyday kitchen equipment, producing a more rustic, homestyle soba. “Just make a dough and make a ball and roll it out and cut the noodles. Keep it really simple,” she explains, adding, “Soba is a finicky dough because it’s gluten-free.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linda Tay Esposito is another Bay Area cook who teaches a noodle class through 18 Reasons in San Francisco. She said that making noodles isn’t that different from baking bread. “It's just working with flour and water, you see the trend with sourdough,” Tay Esposito said. “The fact that you can get your hands into it gives people a feeling of groundedness. Especially with what we’re going through right now, it’s a nice feeling.” Her technique courses—hand-pulled noodles, dumplings—have been especially popular, as quarantined home cooks have time to learn new skills. I was drawn to a class that focused on gluten-free noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138998\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138998\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons. \u003ccite>( Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though gluten-free noodles can be made from rice, tapioca or mung beans, these starches are not substitutions for wheat. “In the south of China and a lot of Southeast Asia—I'm from Malaysia—we don't eat wheat, we have rice,” said Tay Esposito. “We have lots of cassava, which is tapioca. So we used those to make our noodles.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a Sunday afternoon, I logged onto Zoom along with ten other students. First up: liang fen, a slippery, cold noodle from western China that is served with julienned cucumbers, cilantro sauce and numbing chili and Sichuan peppercorn oil. Mung bean flour was mixed into a pot of boiling water and stirred constantly until it gelatinized. Then the slurry was poured into a baking dish—like Jell-O. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138999\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next, I whisked together rice and tapioca flours to make noodles for the Thai chicken soup, khao piak sen. My months of bread baking gave me confidence that the starch molecules would absorb the boiling water, a process called an autolyse, turning into plump dough. Some students struggled with the bright white dough, which was stickier—yet also dried out more easily—than the wheat kind. When rolled, the dough didn’t want to stay flat, snapping back into a smaller, thicker mass. But I finally managed to cut fettucine-width ribbons from it. The best part? Both the mung bean and rice and tapioca noodles provided a chewy, bouncy texture that we Taiwanese like to call “qq.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afterwards, I talked with another student, Jade Wang of Palo Alto, who hasn’t seen her parents since January. Making liang fen was a way to connect with her Chinese heritage. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her, shelter-in-place has been a time for experimenting without fear. “No one else can see your mistakes, so you may as well do it,” said Wang. “We are all experiencing a lot of sameness and a lot of interacting with screens, so doing something with my hands felt really great.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like a loaf of bread, a package of noodles costs just a few dollars, so making them at home isn’t much of a money saver. But the sense of comfort, the connection to tradition and perhaps the reassurance of self-sufficiency might be even more valuable during these uncertain times.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-136733\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-160x16.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sonoko Sakai teaches a two-day \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">vegan ramen webinar\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on October 10-11. 18 Reasons offers an \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italian egg pasta online class\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> with Viola Buitoni on October 25.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back in April, when grocery shopping seemed especially precarious, I bought a 50-pound sack of flour about the size of the bag of kibble my Labrador goes through each month. Over the past five months, I’ve become proficient at feeding my sourdough starter and shaping loaves, and I find baking soothing. But we can’t live on bread alone; I’d have to find another use for all that flour. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Author Beth Bich Minh Nguyen, who relocated from Berkeley to Madison, Wisconsin, started making noodles back in April. Yaki udon is one of her kids’ favorite dinners, but the noodles were unavailable in stores. Since she often bakes cakes and pastries and has cranked out pasta in the past, she decided to try making the Japanese wheat noodle. “Udon is easier and faster, especially since I use my stand mixer to knead the dough,” said Nguyen, who couldn’t believe how easy and delicious it was. “The texture and chew! Also, the dough freezes well. So I’ve made udon numerous times now and may never go back!”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138997\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Recent heat waves were the breaking point for me. Turning on the oven was a non-starter. Maybe it was time to try making noodles? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">First, I checked with Sonoko Sakai. Before the pandemic, she was teaching in-person workshops in the Bay Area every two months—at the San Francisco Cooking School, Japanese Cultural Center, Pollinate Farms in Oakland and SHED in Healdsburg (which has since closed)—as well at her home in Los Angeles. Since shelter-in-place, she’s taught three soba webinars. Online teaching has posed some challenges; usually she provided specialized knives and rolling pins, as well as buckwheat flour from Japan that is especially fresh and finely milled for soba. Now, she mails ingredient kits to students and has adapted her technique for everyday kitchen equipment, producing a more rustic, homestyle soba. “Just make a dough and make a ball and roll it out and cut the noodles. Keep it really simple,” she explains, adding, “Soba is a finicky dough because it’s gluten-free.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linda Tay Esposito is another Bay Area cook who teaches a noodle class through 18 Reasons in San Francisco. She said that making noodles isn’t that different from baking bread. “It's just working with flour and water, you see the trend with sourdough,” Tay Esposito said. “The fact that you can get your hands into it gives people a feeling of groundedness. Especially with what we’re going through right now, it’s a nice feeling.” Her technique courses—hand-pulled noodles, dumplings—have been especially popular, as quarantined home cooks have time to learn new skills. I was drawn to a class that focused on gluten-free noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138998\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138998\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons. \u003ccite>( Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though gluten-free noodles can be made from rice, tapioca or mung beans, these starches are not substitutions for wheat. “In the south of China and a lot of Southeast Asia—I'm from Malaysia—we don't eat wheat, we have rice,” said Tay Esposito. “We have lots of cassava, which is tapioca. So we used those to make our noodles.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a Sunday afternoon, I logged onto Zoom along with ten other students. First up: liang fen, a slippery, cold noodle from western China that is served with julienned cucumbers, cilantro sauce and numbing chili and Sichuan peppercorn oil. Mung bean flour was mixed into a pot of boiling water and stirred constantly until it gelatinized. Then the slurry was poured into a baking dish—like Jell-O. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138999\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next, I whisked together rice and tapioca flours to make noodles for the Thai chicken soup, khao piak sen. My months of bread baking gave me confidence that the starch molecules would absorb the boiling water, a process called an autolyse, turning into plump dough. Some students struggled with the bright white dough, which was stickier—yet also dried out more easily—than the wheat kind. When rolled, the dough didn’t want to stay flat, snapping back into a smaller, thicker mass. But I finally managed to cut fettucine-width ribbons from it. The best part? Both the mung bean and rice and tapioca noodles provided a chewy, bouncy texture that we Taiwanese like to call “qq.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afterwards, I talked with another student, Jade Wang of Palo Alto, who hasn’t seen her parents since January. Making liang fen was a way to connect with her Chinese heritage. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her, shelter-in-place has been a time for experimenting without fear. “No one else can see your mistakes, so you may as well do it,” said Wang. “We are all experiencing a lot of sameness and a lot of interacting with screens, so doing something with my hands felt really great.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like a loaf of bread, a package of noodles costs just a few dollars, so making them at home isn’t much of a money saver. But the sense of comfort, the connection to tradition and perhaps the reassurance of self-sufficiency might be even more valuable during these uncertain times.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-136733\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-160x16.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sonoko Sakai teaches a two-day \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">vegan ramen webinar\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on October 10-11. 18 Reasons offers an \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italian egg pasta online class\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> with Viola Buitoni on October 25.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn",
"title": "Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>Bún kèn \u003c/i>is one of the most treasured Vietnamese noodle dishes\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The aromatic assemblage of rice noodles topped with an amber-colored, heavily spiced, coconut fish curry, garnished with fresh herbs like bean sprouts, mint and cucumber, is not easy to find in Bay Area Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you travelled to Vietnam, you might miss it—unless you knew the right street vendor on the island of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cheftu.com/\">Chef Tu David Phu\u003c/a>, a Bay Area chef who also appeared on Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, whose family hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reverently declares he could eat bowls and bowls of it. Fish and spices, the essential elements of the dish, he explains, have always played pivotal roles on this island in the Mekong Delta, southwest of Vietnam. Its position on the Silk Road, bestowed on its cuisine an abundance of ingredients from many lands, such as lemon grass from Africa, and turmeric, ginger, and coriander from South Asia.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg\" alt=\"Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key...jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc. \u003ccite>(VietnamCoracle.com https://www.vietnamcoracle.com/island-broth-bun-ken/)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although his mother cooked the dish when Phu was a child, he figures he hadn’t yet developed the palate to appreciate its assertive flavors. The first time he actually recalls tasting \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was just a couple of years ago, at a gathering of local \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">islanders. “It had somehow got pushed out of my memory,” he says. “But it tasted familiar and something in me woke up.” Because of its strong spice profile, Phu, who is also a \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-2017-class-of-Chronicle-Rising-Star-Chefs-11087887.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, admits he mistakenly first pegged it as Indonesian.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now that he is enamored with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the chef tries to replicate it at home. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The key element,” he says, “is the texture of the fish in the curry sauce, which needs to be ‘bouncy.’” Phu achieves this by pounding the white fish (halibut is his choice) in a mortar for over an hour. It is important, he cautions, not to grind the fish as that would \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">result in a very different texture. “In southern Vietnamese cooking,” he says, “we love things that have a bounce. Even when we chop, or grind, we’re always trying to figure out how to get more chew into it.” The time-consuming dish, he says, involves “toasting and blooming tons of lemongrass, ginger, aromatics like turmeric and curry into the oil, thus infusing it with a dark turmeric color. Like a soup or stew you have to stand and stir it gently, not let it burn or over reduce, and give it lots of attention.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although Phu cooked for years at fine New York restaurants and concedes that he is considered an excellent chef, he still feels his attempts to make\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> have not yet achieved the ideal he is striving for. “As ‘accomplished’ as I am, I can’t cook as well as my Vietnamese aunt or my mom or my grandmother or a\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street vendor,” he admits. “They have been doing it every day, for generations.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Bún kèn at the Soapbox Café\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139070\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139070\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In his search for the perfect \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn,\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phu discovered an unassuming Russian Hill café called Soapbox Café. When he tasted the dish made by Van Nguyen, the matriarch and cook of the family-owned restaurant who also hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he knew he had found a master. “She nailed it!” says Phu.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen, her husband and two young daughters came to the U.S. as refugees in 1984 after spending two years in a Thai refugee camp. She and her older daughter, Loan Ly, have been running the café since 2015, serving mostly breakfast and lunch dishes. To celebrate their re-opening after an earthquake retrofitting in 2019, Nguyen was inspired to serve \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">for the first time at Soapbox Café.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139071\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Van Nguyen and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Van Nguyen(left) and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although both Nguyen and Ly had previously traveled to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> separately, their first trip to the island together was in 2017. As they visited relatives, they tasted the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at an aunt’s food stall and were smitten. (It was Ly’s first time eating it, because her mother explained, the labor-intensive dish is not usually made at home.) Although the women inquired, their aunt would only provide them with a general idea of its preparation. But the memory of its taste was enough for Nguyen, a skilled cook, to perfect the dish when she came home. She agrees with Phu: the secret to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is achieving the perfect texture for the fish curry, and that takes work. After cleaning, salting and boiling the fish, she pounds it with a stone mortar and pestle for two hours and then pounds it together with the spices. With her daughter interpreting over the phone, she described the desired texture as “fluffy like pork floss, or like a powder with a grainy, but bouncy texture.” The slender rice noodles at the base of the dish play an important counterbalance and require care to achieve a chewy, not mushy, texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen plans to start offering \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as an occasional popup special at Soapbox Cafe. (Check their website or Instagram site for details.) And her daughter will be watching very closely as her mother cooks, so that one day, she can master this special dish and carry on the family tradition.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci> Soapbox Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1800 Hyde Street, San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-814-3391\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@thesoapboxcafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Bún kèn is a treasured Vietnamese noodle dish that is an aromatic assemblage of rice noodles, spices , fish curry and herbs. For San Francisco chef Tu David Phu, this dish is one that holds a special place for him. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>Bún kèn \u003c/i>is one of the most treasured Vietnamese noodle dishes\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The aromatic assemblage of rice noodles topped with an amber-colored, heavily spiced, coconut fish curry, garnished with fresh herbs like bean sprouts, mint and cucumber, is not easy to find in Bay Area Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you travelled to Vietnam, you might miss it—unless you knew the right street vendor on the island of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cheftu.com/\">Chef Tu David Phu\u003c/a>, a Bay Area chef who also appeared on Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, whose family hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reverently declares he could eat bowls and bowls of it. Fish and spices, the essential elements of the dish, he explains, have always played pivotal roles on this island in the Mekong Delta, southwest of Vietnam. Its position on the Silk Road, bestowed on its cuisine an abundance of ingredients from many lands, such as lemon grass from Africa, and turmeric, ginger, and coriander from South Asia.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg\" alt=\"Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key...jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc. \u003ccite>(VietnamCoracle.com https://www.vietnamcoracle.com/island-broth-bun-ken/)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although his mother cooked the dish when Phu was a child, he figures he hadn’t yet developed the palate to appreciate its assertive flavors. The first time he actually recalls tasting \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was just a couple of years ago, at a gathering of local \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">islanders. “It had somehow got pushed out of my memory,” he says. “But it tasted familiar and something in me woke up.” Because of its strong spice profile, Phu, who is also a \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-2017-class-of-Chronicle-Rising-Star-Chefs-11087887.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, admits he mistakenly first pegged it as Indonesian.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now that he is enamored with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the chef tries to replicate it at home. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The key element,” he says, “is the texture of the fish in the curry sauce, which needs to be ‘bouncy.’” Phu achieves this by pounding the white fish (halibut is his choice) in a mortar for over an hour. It is important, he cautions, not to grind the fish as that would \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">result in a very different texture. “In southern Vietnamese cooking,” he says, “we love things that have a bounce. Even when we chop, or grind, we’re always trying to figure out how to get more chew into it.” The time-consuming dish, he says, involves “toasting and blooming tons of lemongrass, ginger, aromatics like turmeric and curry into the oil, thus infusing it with a dark turmeric color. Like a soup or stew you have to stand and stir it gently, not let it burn or over reduce, and give it lots of attention.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although Phu cooked for years at fine New York restaurants and concedes that he is considered an excellent chef, he still feels his attempts to make\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> have not yet achieved the ideal he is striving for. “As ‘accomplished’ as I am, I can’t cook as well as my Vietnamese aunt or my mom or my grandmother or a\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street vendor,” he admits. “They have been doing it every day, for generations.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Bún kèn at the Soapbox Café\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139070\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139070\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In his search for the perfect \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn,\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phu discovered an unassuming Russian Hill café called Soapbox Café. When he tasted the dish made by Van Nguyen, the matriarch and cook of the family-owned restaurant who also hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he knew he had found a master. “She nailed it!” says Phu.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen, her husband and two young daughters came to the U.S. as refugees in 1984 after spending two years in a Thai refugee camp. She and her older daughter, Loan Ly, have been running the café since 2015, serving mostly breakfast and lunch dishes. To celebrate their re-opening after an earthquake retrofitting in 2019, Nguyen was inspired to serve \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">for the first time at Soapbox Café.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139071\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Van Nguyen and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Van Nguyen(left) and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although both Nguyen and Ly had previously traveled to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> separately, their first trip to the island together was in 2017. As they visited relatives, they tasted the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at an aunt’s food stall and were smitten. (It was Ly’s first time eating it, because her mother explained, the labor-intensive dish is not usually made at home.) Although the women inquired, their aunt would only provide them with a general idea of its preparation. But the memory of its taste was enough for Nguyen, a skilled cook, to perfect the dish when she came home. She agrees with Phu: the secret to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is achieving the perfect texture for the fish curry, and that takes work. After cleaning, salting and boiling the fish, she pounds it with a stone mortar and pestle for two hours and then pounds it together with the spices. With her daughter interpreting over the phone, she described the desired texture as “fluffy like pork floss, or like a powder with a grainy, but bouncy texture.” The slender rice noodles at the base of the dish play an important counterbalance and require care to achieve a chewy, not mushy, texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen plans to start offering \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as an occasional popup special at Soapbox Cafe. (Check their website or Instagram site for details.) And her daughter will be watching very closely as her mother cooks, so that one day, she can master this special dish and carry on the family tradition.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci> Soapbox Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1800 Hyde Street, San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-814-3391\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@thesoapboxcafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "San Francisco Argentinian Grab-and-Go Restaurant Expands to Napa",
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"content": "\u003cp>El Porteño will be the newest addition to Napa's Oxbow Public Market. The Argentinian-inspired spot that's been popular at San Francisco's Ferry Building will feature sweet and savory empanadas as well as alfajores starting October 2.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept, from Joseph Ahearne, represents two generations of family recipes with local Napa ingredients. Ahearne, who grew up in Carneros, said that the expansion into Napa made sense for their current demographic. His mother had a restaurant in St. Helena on Railroad Avenue in the early 1970s. \"She wanted to do Argentinian food, but she didn't think people would have heard about it,\" said Ahearne. She'd put Argentinian recipes on the menu along with Mexican mainstays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139117\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139117\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Joseph Ahearne holding a tray of alfajores\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joseph Ahearne is the owner of El Porteño \u003ccite>(Emily Becker / El Porteño)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As far as the menu goes, favorites like the carne empanadas and champiñones, will be available at the Oxbow location as well as grab-and-go frozen empanada options in 2- and 8-packs. The carne empanada is stuffed with beef, onions, green olives, raisins and eggs, and the Champiñones empanada is a vegetarian version with mushrooms, shallots, aged parmesan and crème fraîche. They started these options after seeing sales drop 80% at the start of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pandemic and fires have been difficult for Ahearne, who had originally planned to open the restaurant in March. His space will take up some of the seating that was reserved for the Napa Bookmine. But he did say that his restaurant model of grab-and-go has been lucky throughout everything. \"We never really had a roof and certainly not dining tables,\" Ahearne said. \"But we figured if we tried to wait this out we would have already been [permanently] closed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brand was also previously in the hot bar at Whole Foods, which got shut down after the start of shelter-in-place. Last week, Ahearne was able to start selling retail with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "Oxbow Public Market in Napa is getting a new vendor. El Porteno will serve empanadas and alfajores. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>El Porteño will be the newest addition to Napa's Oxbow Public Market. The Argentinian-inspired spot that's been popular at San Francisco's Ferry Building will feature sweet and savory empanadas as well as alfajores starting October 2.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The concept, from Joseph Ahearne, represents two generations of family recipes with local Napa ingredients. Ahearne, who grew up in Carneros, said that the expansion into Napa made sense for their current demographic. His mother had a restaurant in St. Helena on Railroad Avenue in the early 1970s. \"She wanted to do Argentinian food, but she didn't think people would have heard about it,\" said Ahearne. She'd put Argentinian recipes on the menu along with Mexican mainstays.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139117\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139117\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Joseph Ahearne holding a tray of alfajores\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1024x1536.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1365x2048.jpg 1365w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-1920x2880.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Joeyalfajores-scaled.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Joseph Ahearne is the owner of El Porteño \u003ccite>(Emily Becker / El Porteño)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As far as the menu goes, favorites like the carne empanadas and champiñones, will be available at the Oxbow location as well as grab-and-go frozen empanada options in 2- and 8-packs. The carne empanada is stuffed with beef, onions, green olives, raisins and eggs, and the Champiñones empanada is a vegetarian version with mushrooms, shallots, aged parmesan and crème fraîche. They started these options after seeing sales drop 80% at the start of the pandemic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pandemic and fires have been difficult for Ahearne, who had originally planned to open the restaurant in March. His space will take up some of the seating that was reserved for the Napa Bookmine. But he did say that his restaurant model of grab-and-go has been lucky throughout everything. \"We never really had a roof and certainly not dining tables,\" Ahearne said. \"But we figured if we tried to wait this out we would have already been [permanently] closed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brand was also previously in the hot bar at Whole Foods, which got shut down after the start of shelter-in-place. Last week, Ahearne was able to start selling retail with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>San Francisco restaurants are allowed to have indoor dining starting today, Sept. 30. The San Francisco Department of Public Health (SFDPH) released interim guidance for both indoor and outdoor dining today, which stipulates reopening based on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/139092/pandemic-reopening-san-francisco-gets-ready-for-indoor-dining\">tier system linked to COVID-19 case numbers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both indoor and outdoor dining rules could change depending on spikes or dips of COVID cases. If cases increase to red or purple, the department can and will pause or reverse these re-opening measures. For now, at the orange tier, the measures allow for indoor dining at 25% capacity for up to 100 diners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simultaneously, the SFDPH also sent out guidelines and recommendations for HVAC systems and indoor ventilation, which has been a major concern for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/29/dining/indoor-dining-safety.html\">offering indoor dining in the first place\u003c/a>. A \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantbusinessonline.com/operations/new-cdc-report-cites-dining-out-significant-covid-risk\">recent CDC report cites\u003c/a> dining out as a significant COVID-19 risk that applies to both indoor and outdoor dining, due to the inability to wear masks while eating. The necessary improvements for ventilation include having HVAC systems serviced and functioning properly, increasing the flow of outdoor air and natural ventilation by opening windows and considering HEPA filters and fans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Current CDC guidelines still recommend drive-through, delivery, takeout or curbside pickup as the safest and lowest risk methods for restaurant food. With a predicted spike of cases in conjunction with flu season, guidelines also strongly recommend getting flu vaccines for workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Golden Gate Restaurant Association worked closely with SFDPH on these guidelines. Laurie Thomas, the association's executive director, said that everyone will need to make their own decisions based on their comfort level. \"But this is an important step forward in the reopening process,\" she said in a statement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additionally, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/business/article/S-F-waives-outdoor-business-permit-fees-till-2022-15607547.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> reported \u003c/a>that outdoor dining permit fees will be waived until spring of 2022, and refunded retroactively for fees paid after April 15, 2020.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's what you need to know:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>All places that offer indoor dining must serve \"bona fide meals\" to customers, meaning that all restaurants must serve at least a \"main course\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serving alcoholic beverages is not permitted without also offering a meal service\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All restaurants must have a valid permit to operate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All restaurants must complete a Health and Safety Plan and post it publicly and on its website\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The Health and Safety plan is linked to maintaining food permits, and includes proper signage, face coverage and enforcement of social distancing of six feet or more between people\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All spaces must be redesigned for proper social distancing\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>There need to be separate spaces for vendor pickups, delivery and take-out\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Staff must be trained on safety protocols\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Restaurants must verbally screen all diners upon entry and advise them to wear a face covering when not eating or drinking\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All buffets are prohibited at this time, including self-cook stations like hot pot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Restrooms need to be disinfected every four hours and surfaces should be cleaned at least once every hour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>—Urmila Ramakrishnan (\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/U_Ramakrishnan\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">@U_Ramakrishnan\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>San Francisco restaurants are allowed to have indoor dining starting today, Sept. 30. The San Francisco Department of Public Health (SFDPH) released interim guidance for both indoor and outdoor dining today, which stipulates reopening based on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/139092/pandemic-reopening-san-francisco-gets-ready-for-indoor-dining\">tier system linked to COVID-19 case numbers\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both indoor and outdoor dining rules could change depending on spikes or dips of COVID cases. If cases increase to red or purple, the department can and will pause or reverse these re-opening measures. For now, at the orange tier, the measures allow for indoor dining at 25% capacity for up to 100 diners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Simultaneously, the SFDPH also sent out guidelines and recommendations for HVAC systems and indoor ventilation, which has been a major concern for \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/29/dining/indoor-dining-safety.html\">offering indoor dining in the first place\u003c/a>. A \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantbusinessonline.com/operations/new-cdc-report-cites-dining-out-significant-covid-risk\">recent CDC report cites\u003c/a> dining out as a significant COVID-19 risk that applies to both indoor and outdoor dining, due to the inability to wear masks while eating. The necessary improvements for ventilation include having HVAC systems serviced and functioning properly, increasing the flow of outdoor air and natural ventilation by opening windows and considering HEPA filters and fans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Current CDC guidelines still recommend drive-through, delivery, takeout or curbside pickup as the safest and lowest risk methods for restaurant food. With a predicted spike of cases in conjunction with flu season, guidelines also strongly recommend getting flu vaccines for workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Golden Gate Restaurant Association worked closely with SFDPH on these guidelines. Laurie Thomas, the association's executive director, said that everyone will need to make their own decisions based on their comfort level. \"But this is an important step forward in the reopening process,\" she said in a statement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Additionally, \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/business/article/S-F-waives-outdoor-business-permit-fees-till-2022-15607547.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> reported \u003c/a>that outdoor dining permit fees will be waived until spring of 2022, and refunded retroactively for fees paid after April 15, 2020.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's what you need to know:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>All places that offer indoor dining must serve \"bona fide meals\" to customers, meaning that all restaurants must serve at least a \"main course\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serving alcoholic beverages is not permitted without also offering a meal service\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All restaurants must have a valid permit to operate\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All restaurants must complete a Health and Safety Plan and post it publicly and on its website\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The Health and Safety plan is linked to maintaining food permits, and includes proper signage, face coverage and enforcement of social distancing of six feet or more between people\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All spaces must be redesigned for proper social distancing\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>There need to be separate spaces for vendor pickups, delivery and take-out\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Staff must be trained on safety protocols\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Restaurants must verbally screen all diners upon entry and advise them to wear a face covering when not eating or drinking\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>All buffets are prohibited at this time, including self-cook stations like hot pot\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Restrooms need to be disinfected every four hours and surfaces should be cleaned at least once every hour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>—Urmila Ramakrishnan (\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/U_Ramakrishnan\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">@U_Ramakrishnan\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "This Bay Area Spice Company Is Fighting Climate Change and Colonialism",
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"content": "\u003cp>At the beginning of September, Bay Area foodie \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mr.thaliwallah/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rushi Sanathra\u003c/a> launched a subscription spice box, with a bit of a twist. Each box comes with a spice, a few recipes from him and his mom—often with a hand-written personalized note. The twist is not the mix of traditional Indian recipes and sustainable packaging, but the focus on the broader ecosystem. \u003ca href=\"https://www.zameenco.com/about-us\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Zameen\u003c/a> (meaning earth in Hindi) aims to expose the world to spices grown and harvested by small farmers. Zameen’s twist includes a focus on the farmer, the environment and social justice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the idea came to fruition this month, the seed was planted over ten years ago when Sanathra worked in a rural village in the state of Gujarat. Sanathra describes his initial foray into cooking as “Top Chef meets Survivor.” In 2009, he swapped his corporate job to volunteer in rural India. “The village, Dhedhuki, in the state of Gujarat, had few amenities. No public transit or grocery stores,” Sanathra wrote in a recent social media post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve lived with farmers,” he said, but even ten years later the farmers he’s in touch with said they wanted to do organic farming. \"But we're still looking for a market.” (full disclosure: Sanathra and I first met in India around this time.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13886964\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-13886964\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/1920_Rushi_Dehduki-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rushi Sanathra creator of Zameen in Dhedhuki, in Gujarat, India.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sanathra, also known as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mr.thaliwallah/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mr. Thaliwallah\u003c/a> on Instagram — loosely translated to Mr. plate-guy, said his initial desire to start \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zameenco/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Zameen\u003c/a> came from two main reasons: to bring traditional Indian recipes to a U.S. audience and supporting organic farmers in India. The concept to share spices has been roughly two years in the making. “Indian food traditions are being lost,” he said. Sending spices along with recipes is one way to revive those lost traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was working for Little Passports for the past few years, until he lost his job in January. Then, when the pandemic hit, he said he had no reason not to at least try. “In any other time, I would not have done this,” he said. While he has struggled with wanting everything to be perfect, he is adjusting to the idea that his vision won’t be perfect just yet, and he’s continually working to improve all aspects of the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CFNqkrKlv4P/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He’s also using his platform on social media to encourage people to talk about their own food stories and think through food and waste by hosting Instagram lives to talk about recipes and topics like kitchen composting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a self-described queer Desi, Sanathra talks about tasty food and the importance of supporting regenerative farming with equal enthusasm. He sees his work as an act against colonialism. “Having everything at your fingertips is a very colonial thought-process,” Sanathra said, “is there a way to encourage people to purchase locally, support local economies? And also support international regenerative farming?” he asks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13886974\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-13886974\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Product.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Each package comes with a jar of spices as well as recipes to try.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the moment, he’s working with an organization that works with farmers in Southern India on the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. In addition to the recipes, Sanathra intends on bringing stories of the local farmers as well. The region of southern India he is currently sourcing some of the spices from has been impacted by climate change and sees less rainwater. “Cardamon is intensive on resources — a lot of cardamom farmers are using groundwater,” he said as we went on a tangent about water usage, crops, and how some farmers in India are thinking about regenerative farming and integrating crops that grow well with less water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of cost, Sanathra admits the price could turn some people away, but he said on a broader scale, “It’s deciding how we are going to use our money.” While some South Asians in the U.S. may devalue their spices, Sanathra said this is a different way of looking at the plight of farmers, and another way of combating climate change. “A lot of my Desi friends want to buy the subscription for the recipe, not because they are helping farmers,” but for Sanathra it’s about more than just the recipe it’s about the food and what a well-meaning business can do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13886973\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-13886973\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WhatsApp-Image-2020-09-27-at-12.08.22-PM-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In an effort to ensure as little waste as possible, Zameen is using glass jars.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So far, his clients have been pleased with the product. “It was cool to try it out and learn how to use a spice differently,” said Joylani Shibata, who subscribes to Zameen and tried out the recipes. She knows Sanathra and trusts his taste as well as his judgement.”It’s nice knowing it will be a good quality spice — and learning how to use it differently,” she added. There’s also an element of excitement since she said she didn’t know what spice would be coming next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanathra would like to be able to grow the business to have enough capital to be able to purchase all of a farmer's crop. “I want it to be like Patagonia — for spices,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At the beginning of September, Bay Area foodie \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mr.thaliwallah/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rushi Sanathra\u003c/a> launched a subscription spice box, with a bit of a twist. Each box comes with a spice, a few recipes from him and his mom—often with a hand-written personalized note. The twist is not the mix of traditional Indian recipes and sustainable packaging, but the focus on the broader ecosystem. \u003ca href=\"https://www.zameenco.com/about-us\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Zameen\u003c/a> (meaning earth in Hindi) aims to expose the world to spices grown and harvested by small farmers. Zameen’s twist includes a focus on the farmer, the environment and social justice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the idea came to fruition this month, the seed was planted over ten years ago when Sanathra worked in a rural village in the state of Gujarat. Sanathra describes his initial foray into cooking as “Top Chef meets Survivor.” In 2009, he swapped his corporate job to volunteer in rural India. “The village, Dhedhuki, in the state of Gujarat, had few amenities. No public transit or grocery stores,” Sanathra wrote in a recent social media post.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve lived with farmers,” he said, but even ten years later the farmers he’s in touch with said they wanted to do organic farming. \"But we're still looking for a market.” (full disclosure: Sanathra and I first met in India around this time.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13886964\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-13886964\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/1920_Rushi_Dehduki-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rushi Sanathra creator of Zameen in Dhedhuki, in Gujarat, India.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sanathra, also known as \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/mr.thaliwallah/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mr. Thaliwallah\u003c/a> on Instagram — loosely translated to Mr. plate-guy, said his initial desire to start \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/zameenco/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Zameen\u003c/a> came from two main reasons: to bring traditional Indian recipes to a U.S. audience and supporting organic farmers in India. The concept to share spices has been roughly two years in the making. “Indian food traditions are being lost,” he said. Sending spices along with recipes is one way to revive those lost traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was working for Little Passports for the past few years, until he lost his job in January. Then, when the pandemic hit, he said he had no reason not to at least try. “In any other time, I would not have done this,” he said. While he has struggled with wanting everything to be perfect, he is adjusting to the idea that his vision won’t be perfect just yet, and he’s continually working to improve all aspects of the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>He’s also using his platform on social media to encourage people to talk about their own food stories and think through food and waste by hosting Instagram lives to talk about recipes and topics like kitchen composting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a self-described queer Desi, Sanathra talks about tasty food and the importance of supporting regenerative farming with equal enthusasm. He sees his work as an act against colonialism. “Having everything at your fingertips is a very colonial thought-process,” Sanathra said, “is there a way to encourage people to purchase locally, support local economies? And also support international regenerative farming?” he asks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13886974\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-13886974\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/Product.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Each package comes with a jar of spices as well as recipes to try.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the moment, he’s working with an organization that works with farmers in Southern India on the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. In addition to the recipes, Sanathra intends on bringing stories of the local farmers as well. The region of southern India he is currently sourcing some of the spices from has been impacted by climate change and sees less rainwater. “Cardamon is intensive on resources — a lot of cardamom farmers are using groundwater,” he said as we went on a tangent about water usage, crops, and how some farmers in India are thinking about regenerative farming and integrating crops that grow well with less water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of cost, Sanathra admits the price could turn some people away, but he said on a broader scale, “It’s deciding how we are going to use our money.” While some South Asians in the U.S. may devalue their spices, Sanathra said this is a different way of looking at the plight of farmers, and another way of combating climate change. “A lot of my Desi friends want to buy the subscription for the recipe, not because they are helping farmers,” but for Sanathra it’s about more than just the recipe it’s about the food and what a well-meaning business can do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_13886973\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-13886973\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/2/2020/09/WhatsApp-Image-2020-09-27-at-12.08.22-PM-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In an effort to ensure as little waste as possible, Zameen is using glass jars.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So far, his clients have been pleased with the product. “It was cool to try it out and learn how to use a spice differently,” said Joylani Shibata, who subscribes to Zameen and tried out the recipes. She knows Sanathra and trusts his taste as well as his judgement.”It’s nice knowing it will be a good quality spice — and learning how to use it differently,” she added. There’s also an element of excitement since she said she didn’t know what spice would be coming next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sanathra would like to be able to grow the business to have enough capital to be able to purchase all of a farmer's crop. “I want it to be like Patagonia — for spices,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"soldout": {
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