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"disqusTitle": "2010: The Future in a Cup of Coffee",
"title": "2010: The Future in a Cup of Coffee",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-grounds.jpg\" alt=\"coffee grounds\" title=\"coffee grounds\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9419\">See these Greek coffee grounds? They just told me my future.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am sitting here, wired and edgy from two cups of the stuff, trying to let my mind become open to what the residue left behind is trying to tell me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I am not entirely sure what to make of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there are a lot of people who might not know what I'm talking about, since I have encountered a hell of a lot of people who don't even know what Greek coffee is, let alone what Greek coffee can tell a person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Greek Coffee\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people who come into our restaurant have no idea what Greek coffee is. When I ask these people if they have ever had Turkish coffee and they reply in the affirmative, I can simply say, \"Well, it's just like that, only we don't say 'Turkish' much around here.\" If they reply in the negative, well, that's a different story. I explain that Greek coffee is made from a fine, powdery coffee grounds, that sugar is added to suit the drinker's taste and that, after it has come to a boil, the coffee-- grounds and all-- are poured into a little, white cup. And, of course, that it is an excellent beverage to consume if one has a lot of house cleaning to do in the immediate future or if one is about to go out dancing-- it's that caffeinated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-boiling.jpg\" alt=\"coffee boiling\" title=\"coffee boiling\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9420\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When guests see the huge, heated cauldron of sand we use for making the coffee at the end of a hallway that leads into the main dining room point and ask \"Oooh! What's \u003cem>that\u003c/em> for?\", most of the time I will cheerfully tell them it is where we make the coffee. Other times, when I have tired of answering that question for the twentieth time that evening, I remain polite, but tell people it's a repurposed baptismal font-- a sad reminder of how everyone seems to have lost their faith these days or, more commonly, that it is a more sanitary place for the cats who roam the restaurant after hours to do their business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people read our dessert menu and see the coffee advertised as heated over hot sand and ask, \"So there's sand \u003cem>in\u003c/em> the coffee?\" I tell them that Greeks, like most birds, need to eat sand and small rocks to help them grind up their food. It's a genetic fluke, but it they make it work for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I might tell them the truth-- that, traditionally, coffee was heated over hot coals and that, since placing the boiling vessel (\u003cem>briki\u003c/em>) directly over the coals would burn the coffee, sand was used to diffuse the heat and provide stability for the wide-bottomed, long-handled thing. I then mention that most people now boil their coffee on their stove tops (as pictured above), but that wouldn't be nearly as attractive as doing it in the sand, now would it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-ready.jpg\" alt=\"coffee ready\" title=\"coffee ready\" width=\"350\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9421\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fortune Telling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apart from the caffeine, the best thing about drinking a cup of Greek coffee is knowing that, as you drink it, you are sealing your own fate-- from how you sip, to how you swirl the cup-- you are influencing the placement of the grounds that settle into a sort of mud at the bottom. It is from this mud that one's future can be divined. It's an old tradition that dates back to the Turks (who introduced their own, slightly darker-roasted coffee to the Greeks), of course, but one never mentions that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been reading Greek coffee cups for years. Not that I'm Greek, mind you-- I just work in a Greek restaurant where, unsurprisingly, Greek coffee is served. And I look just Greek enough that people don't think twice about asking me to tell their fortune.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You want me to read your fortune?\" I'd say when people first started asking. \"Oh, I'm not Greek. Let me go find a Greek person who can do it for you.\" Of course, this irritated the hell out of most of the ethnically Greek staff. It's not as if they weren't busy enough what with chain-smoking outside, eating in the back hallway, or overwhelming their bussers with work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, one day, I just pretended I knew what I was doing and started reading peoples' coffee grounds. And I quickly found out how good I was at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My foray into \u003cem>cafeomancy\u003c/em> (the reading of coffee grounds) began when I was stuck serving a private dinner in our downstairs dining room-- where one is fairly isolated from the main action of the restaurant. Two members of the party were drinking Greek coffee. When one of them asked if I could read her cup, I thought, \"Well, why not?\" I just might be able to bee-ess my way through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I examined her grounds, mindful of the fact that I had absolutely no knowledge of what any of the traditional symbols might mean, I looked at the grounds as if it were my own, personal Rorschach Test and went to town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I see two figures-- one is hunched, the other is walking upright. Both are moving away from the handle of the cup. I'm not certain that these are two, separate people.\" And then I thought a moment and said, \"I think they both represent you. My guess it that you have just gone through or are going through something difficult or painful (crouched figure). The upright figure, however, tells me that you are going to come out of it just fine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There. Nice and vague, but with a happy ending.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, the woman's husband said,\"Let me see that thing. My wife has been recovering from major back surgery.\" He and his wife were more than a little shocked that such a thing could be told from the sludge found along the side of a cup, but they both saw what I saw. Score one for the non-Greek, bee-essing waiter. Beginner's luck, I thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second coffee drinker enthusiastically handed me his cup. I held the cup under the light of a floor lamp, did a bit of chin-scratching, uttering \"hmmms\" and \"well, \u003cem>this\u003c/em> is interesting\" as I looked, then finally came back to the man to say, \"I see two men in a rowboat. One of the men is you. The other person, it seems, is rowing in the opposite direction-- against you. All I can say is that you and someone important in your life are working against each other.\" Not exactly a rosy future, but that was the first thing that came to mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He grabbed the cup and showed it to his wife. \"I had a huge fight with my best friend this weekend.\" His wife added that her husband and his erstwhile best friend were on a crew team together. I had stunned the crowd. And myself a little, too-- I had no idea I was such a gifted bee-ess artist. I received an enormous gratuity that night, in case you were wondering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the greatest fortune of all was not divined by me-- I merely confirmed it. Shortly after my success in the private dining room below, I waited on a husband and wife upstairs at the table closest to the Greek coffee sand pit. As the husband was sipping his coffee, I offered to read his fortune when he had finished. \"That's okay, I'll read it for him,\" said his wife. When he got down to the mud, he swirled his cup three times, placed the saucer upside down over his cup and turned them both over to do their thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few minutes later, the wife called me over. \"You looked puzzled,\" I said, \"what's the matter? Bad fortune or something?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh, it's not bad. I just want to know if you see what I see, because I've never seen anything like \u003cem>this\u003c/em>.\" I took the cup and held it under the light. There was no mistaking what I saw. There on the side of the cup was the profile of a woman (it was unmistakably a woman with big, poofy hair and almond-shaped eyes) with her mouth wide open around (but not quite touching) something protruding horizontally from the middle part of a male figure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well? Do you see what I see or am I just crazy?\" she asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I see something, but I don't quite know how to phrase it without sounding, um, crude. That's the most sexually graphic cup I've ever seen.\" I replied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Then you saw exactly what we both saw,\" she answered with a grin. Her husband immediately asked for the check. The cup, by the way, went straight to the office downstairs where everyone could take a look.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-fortune.jpg\" alt=\"coffee fortune\" title=\"coffee fortune\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9423\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've had enough with other peoples' fortunes for the moment. I want to know a little more about my own future, for a change. No one has ever read \u003cem>my\u003c/em> coffee grounds. So I would like you to do it for me, since one is not supposed to read one's own grounds, according to the Greeks (the Turks, however, are not so strict upon this matter).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I'm going to do it anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my cup, I see a giant rabbit falling from a rock onto a small dolphin with water spouting from its blow hole. Or maybe it's a whale. According to one source, a rabbit implies timidity, while a whale is representative of financial success. Personally, I feel I must be the timid, shy little rabbit (Rabbit, incidentally, was the pet name given to me by a boyfriend many years ago). Does this mean I will fall upon better times in the year ahead? Fall (I hope figuratively rather than literally) into money and good fortune? Well, that would certainly be welcome news, since 2009 was pretty much a washout in terms of, well, just about everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's hoping we all fall upon better times in 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy, happy New Year or, as my Greek brethren say it \u003cem>Chronia pola\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "See these Greek coffee grounds? They just told me my future.\r\n\r\nI am sitting here, wired and edgy from two cups of the stuff, trying to let my mind become open to what the residue left behind is trying to tell me.\r\n\r\nAnd I am not entirely sure what to make of it.\r\n\r\nOf course, there are a lot of people who might not know what I'm talking about, since I have encountered a hell of a lot of people who don't even know what Greek coffee is, let alone what Greek coffee can tell a person.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people who come into our restaurant have no idea what Greek coffee is. When I ask these people if they have ever had Turkish coffee and they reply in the affirmative, I can simply say, \"Well, it's just like that, only we don't say 'Turkish' much around here.\" If they reply in the negative, well, that's a different story. I explain that Greek coffee is made from a fine, powdery coffee grounds, that sugar is added to suit the drinker's taste and that, after it has come to a boil, the coffee-- grounds and all-- are poured into a little, white cup. And, of course, that it is an excellent beverage to consume if one has a lot of house cleaning to do in the immediate future or if one is about to go out dancing-- it's that caffeinated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-boiling.jpg\" alt=\"coffee boiling\" title=\"coffee boiling\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9420\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When guests see the huge, heated cauldron of sand we use for making the coffee at the end of a hallway that leads into the main dining room point and ask \"Oooh! What's \u003cem>that\u003c/em> for?\", most of the time I will cheerfully tell them it is where we make the coffee. Other times, when I have tired of answering that question for the twentieth time that evening, I remain polite, but tell people it's a repurposed baptismal font-- a sad reminder of how everyone seems to have lost their faith these days or, more commonly, that it is a more sanitary place for the cats who roam the restaurant after hours to do their business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When people read our dessert menu and see the coffee advertised as heated over hot sand and ask, \"So there's sand \u003cem>in\u003c/em> the coffee?\" I tell them that Greeks, like most birds, need to eat sand and small rocks to help them grind up their food. It's a genetic fluke, but it they make it work for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I might tell them the truth-- that, traditionally, coffee was heated over hot coals and that, since placing the boiling vessel (\u003cem>briki\u003c/em>) directly over the coals would burn the coffee, sand was used to diffuse the heat and provide stability for the wide-bottomed, long-handled thing. I then mention that most people now boil their coffee on their stove tops (as pictured above), but that wouldn't be nearly as attractive as doing it in the sand, now would it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-ready.jpg\" alt=\"coffee ready\" title=\"coffee ready\" width=\"350\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9421\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fortune Telling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apart from the caffeine, the best thing about drinking a cup of Greek coffee is knowing that, as you drink it, you are sealing your own fate-- from how you sip, to how you swirl the cup-- you are influencing the placement of the grounds that settle into a sort of mud at the bottom. It is from this mud that one's future can be divined. It's an old tradition that dates back to the Turks (who introduced their own, slightly darker-roasted coffee to the Greeks), of course, but one never mentions that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been reading Greek coffee cups for years. Not that I'm Greek, mind you-- I just work in a Greek restaurant where, unsurprisingly, Greek coffee is served. And I look just Greek enough that people don't think twice about asking me to tell their fortune.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You want me to read your fortune?\" I'd say when people first started asking. \"Oh, I'm not Greek. Let me go find a Greek person who can do it for you.\" Of course, this irritated the hell out of most of the ethnically Greek staff. It's not as if they weren't busy enough what with chain-smoking outside, eating in the back hallway, or overwhelming their bussers with work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, one day, I just pretended I knew what I was doing and started reading peoples' coffee grounds. And I quickly found out how good I was at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My foray into \u003cem>cafeomancy\u003c/em> (the reading of coffee grounds) began when I was stuck serving a private dinner in our downstairs dining room-- where one is fairly isolated from the main action of the restaurant. Two members of the party were drinking Greek coffee. When one of them asked if I could read her cup, I thought, \"Well, why not?\" I just might be able to bee-ess my way through it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I examined her grounds, mindful of the fact that I had absolutely no knowledge of what any of the traditional symbols might mean, I looked at the grounds as if it were my own, personal Rorschach Test and went to town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I see two figures-- one is hunched, the other is walking upright. Both are moving away from the handle of the cup. I'm not certain that these are two, separate people.\" And then I thought a moment and said, \"I think they both represent you. My guess it that you have just gone through or are going through something difficult or painful (crouched figure). The upright figure, however, tells me that you are going to come out of it just fine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There. Nice and vague, but with a happy ending.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, the woman's husband said,\"Let me see that thing. My wife has been recovering from major back surgery.\" He and his wife were more than a little shocked that such a thing could be told from the sludge found along the side of a cup, but they both saw what I saw. Score one for the non-Greek, bee-essing waiter. Beginner's luck, I thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second coffee drinker enthusiastically handed me his cup. I held the cup under the light of a floor lamp, did a bit of chin-scratching, uttering \"hmmms\" and \"well, \u003cem>this\u003c/em> is interesting\" as I looked, then finally came back to the man to say, \"I see two men in a rowboat. One of the men is you. The other person, it seems, is rowing in the opposite direction-- against you. All I can say is that you and someone important in your life are working against each other.\" Not exactly a rosy future, but that was the first thing that came to mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He grabbed the cup and showed it to his wife. \"I had a huge fight with my best friend this weekend.\" His wife added that her husband and his erstwhile best friend were on a crew team together. I had stunned the crowd. And myself a little, too-- I had no idea I was such a gifted bee-ess artist. I received an enormous gratuity that night, in case you were wondering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the greatest fortune of all was not divined by me-- I merely confirmed it. Shortly after my success in the private dining room below, I waited on a husband and wife upstairs at the table closest to the Greek coffee sand pit. As the husband was sipping his coffee, I offered to read his fortune when he had finished. \"That's okay, I'll read it for him,\" said his wife. When he got down to the mud, he swirled his cup three times, placed the saucer upside down over his cup and turned them both over to do their thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few minutes later, the wife called me over. \"You looked puzzled,\" I said, \"what's the matter? Bad fortune or something?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Oh, it's not bad. I just want to know if you see what I see, because I've never seen anything like \u003cem>this\u003c/em>.\" I took the cup and held it under the light. There was no mistaking what I saw. There on the side of the cup was the profile of a woman (it was unmistakably a woman with big, poofy hair and almond-shaped eyes) with her mouth wide open around (but not quite touching) something protruding horizontally from the middle part of a male figure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Well? Do you see what I see or am I just crazy?\" she asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I see something, but I don't quite know how to phrase it without sounding, um, crude. That's the most sexually graphic cup I've ever seen.\" I replied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Then you saw exactly what we both saw,\" she answered with a grin. Her husband immediately asked for the check. The cup, by the way, went straight to the office downstairs where everyone could take a look.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/coffee-fortune.jpg\" alt=\"coffee fortune\" title=\"coffee fortune\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9423\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've had enough with other peoples' fortunes for the moment. I want to know a little more about my own future, for a change. No one has ever read \u003cem>my\u003c/em> coffee grounds. So I would like you to do it for me, since one is not supposed to read one's own grounds, according to the Greeks (the Turks, however, are not so strict upon this matter).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I'm going to do it anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my cup, I see a giant rabbit falling from a rock onto a small dolphin with water spouting from its blow hole. Or maybe it's a whale. According to one source, a rabbit implies timidity, while a whale is representative of financial success. Personally, I feel I must be the timid, shy little rabbit (Rabbit, incidentally, was the pet name given to me by a boyfriend many years ago). Does this mean I will fall upon better times in the year ahead? Fall (I hope figuratively rather than literally) into money and good fortune? Well, that would certainly be welcome news, since 2009 was pretty much a washout in terms of, well, just about everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's hoping we all fall upon better times in 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy, happy New Year or, as my Greek brethren say it \u003cem>Chronia pola\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Burb Burps: Evvia Estiatorio",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/octopus.jpg\" alt=\"octopus\" title=\"octopus\" width=\"450\" height=\"338\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9409\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evvia -- sister to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kokkari.com\">Kokkari\u003c/a> in San Francisco -- is one of our favorite of the favorites down here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia\u003c/a> serves wonderfully classic Greek fare along with dishes they describe as \"local interpretations of many traditional Hellenic favorites.\" Because of a minor kitchen fire, Evvia had to close for a few weeks this fall and my husband and I were clutching our stomachs in fear that they would never reopen. Lucky for us and for Palo Alto, they did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For us, It's all about the octopus. I mean, I suppose you COULD order the succulent lamb chops, or the piping hot gigantes beans with herbed feta, or even the eggplant and artichoke saganaki with the huge drift of Greek yogurt that needs to be spread over everything I eat for the rest of my life. But really, Evvia is all about the octopus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the menu, it's listed as \"Octapadaki tou Yiorgou\" and described as \"traditional grilled octopus with lemon, oregano, and olive oil.\" Like the best things in life, this dish is simple. No foam, no gelees, no essences of boiled-down essences. All it takes is four ingredients -- five, really, if you count the wood fire grill needed to edge the chopped cephalopod with charred, smoky goodness -- for that dish to wend its tentacled way into my hungry, waking moments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though normally quite generous with one another when it comes to food, my husband and I now have to put in a double order, because where Evvia's octopus is concerned, we're way too greedy to share a single.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as much as we'd like to, diner can not live on octopus alone, and we do have other standard favorites at Evvia. The gigantes beans are the legume equivalent of a hot bath. Simmered in a rich marinara sauce with molten feta and oregano oil, Evvia's beans keep me from missing my favorite wood-baked beans at \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. They're definitely a must-order for us. When tomatoes are in season the Horiatiki salad is another winner. Crisp and refreshing with shavings of sweet purple onion, dusky olives, cucumber chunks, and salty squares of feta, it's the best classic Greek salad I've ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, eating Greek almost always means that the meal is incomplete without lamb of some sort. Evvia's simple lamb chops are perfectly cooked and served with a lemon half and crackly, roasted potatoes. They're lovely. I've also become very fond of the loukanika -- plump lengths of mesquite-grilled lamb sausage -- which beg to be dragged through their cucumber-yogurt side sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a way, it's unfortunate that we have such firm favorites, because while Evvia has so many other things I'd like to try, I'm not willing to sacrifice one of our usuals to do so. Maybe some day we'll have a large enough party that we'll have to order more food and then I'll finally get to try the moussaka with yogurt béchamel. Or the braised goat with tomatoes and orzo. Oooh, or the egg-lemon soup!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You now, it was really quite stupid of me to write this post on an empty stomach because I'm putting all my dinner plans back in the fridge, and we're getting Evvia in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia Estiatorio\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n420 Emerson Street (at Lytton)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n(650)326-0983\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thurday: 11:30am-2:00pm (lunch)\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thursday: 5:30pm-10:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nFriday: 5:30pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSaturday: 5:00pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSunday: 5:00pm-9:00pm (dinner)\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Evvia -- sister to \u003cem>Kokkari\u003c/em> in San Francisco -- is one of our favorite of the favorites down here. \u003cem>Evvia\u003c/em> serves wonderfully classic Greek fare along with dishes they describe as \"local interpretations of many traditional Hellenic favorites.\" Because of a minor kitchen fire, Evvia had to close for a few weeks this fall and my husband and I were clutching our stomachs in fear that they would never reopen. Lucky for us and for Palo Alto, they did. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/octopus.jpg\" alt=\"octopus\" title=\"octopus\" width=\"450\" height=\"338\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9409\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evvia -- sister to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kokkari.com\">Kokkari\u003c/a> in San Francisco -- is one of our favorite of the favorites down here. \u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia\u003c/a> serves wonderfully classic Greek fare along with dishes they describe as \"local interpretations of many traditional Hellenic favorites.\" Because of a minor kitchen fire, Evvia had to close for a few weeks this fall and my husband and I were clutching our stomachs in fear that they would never reopen. Lucky for us and for Palo Alto, they did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For us, It's all about the octopus. I mean, I suppose you COULD order the succulent lamb chops, or the piping hot gigantes beans with herbed feta, or even the eggplant and artichoke saganaki with the huge drift of Greek yogurt that needs to be spread over everything I eat for the rest of my life. But really, Evvia is all about the octopus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the menu, it's listed as \"Octapadaki tou Yiorgou\" and described as \"traditional grilled octopus with lemon, oregano, and olive oil.\" Like the best things in life, this dish is simple. No foam, no gelees, no essences of boiled-down essences. All it takes is four ingredients -- five, really, if you count the wood fire grill needed to edge the chopped cephalopod with charred, smoky goodness -- for that dish to wend its tentacled way into my hungry, waking moments.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though normally quite generous with one another when it comes to food, my husband and I now have to put in a double order, because where Evvia's octopus is concerned, we're way too greedy to share a single.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as much as we'd like to, diner can not live on octopus alone, and we do have other standard favorites at Evvia. The gigantes beans are the legume equivalent of a hot bath. Simmered in a rich marinara sauce with molten feta and oregano oil, Evvia's beans keep me from missing my favorite wood-baked beans at \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. They're definitely a must-order for us. When tomatoes are in season the Horiatiki salad is another winner. Crisp and refreshing with shavings of sweet purple onion, dusky olives, cucumber chunks, and salty squares of feta, it's the best classic Greek salad I've ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me, eating Greek almost always means that the meal is incomplete without lamb of some sort. Evvia's simple lamb chops are perfectly cooked and served with a lemon half and crackly, roasted potatoes. They're lovely. I've also become very fond of the loukanika -- plump lengths of mesquite-grilled lamb sausage -- which beg to be dragged through their cucumber-yogurt side sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a way, it's unfortunate that we have such firm favorites, because while Evvia has so many other things I'd like to try, I'm not willing to sacrifice one of our usuals to do so. Maybe some day we'll have a large enough party that we'll have to order more food and then I'll finally get to try the moussaka with yogurt béchamel. Or the braised goat with tomatoes and orzo. Oooh, or the egg-lemon soup!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You now, it was really quite stupid of me to write this post on an empty stomach because I'm putting all my dinner plans back in the fridge, and we're getting Evvia in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.evvia.net/home/\">Evvia Estiatorio\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n420 Emerson Street (at Lytton)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n(650)326-0983\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thurday: 11:30am-2:00pm (lunch)\u003cbr>\nMonday-Thursday: 5:30pm-10:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nFriday: 5:30pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSaturday: 5:00pm-11:00pm (dinner)\u003cbr>\nSunday: 5:00pm-9:00pm (dinner)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Sparkling Citrus Gelée for New Year's Eve",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/cocktail-nye300.jpg\" alt=\"Sparkling Citrus Gelee. Photo by Steve Duell\" title=\"Sparkling Citrus Gelee. Photo by Steve Duell\" width=\"300\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9361\">What are you doing for New Year's Eve? As much as I'd like to be waltzing in silver lamé, this year I'll be taking a page from the late novelist and essayist Laurie Colwin, who wrote persuasively in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060955317/kqedorg-20\">More Home Cooking\u003c/a> about the joys of opting out of the big razzle-dazzle. Instead, she brought the party home, making a tradition out of sharing champagne, salmon, and homemade biscuits with friends and family at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, who wants to scramble for reservations when so many restaurants will be flinging confetti on the tablecloths and pushing high-priced prix fixe menus and set seatings?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, I'll be corralling a small group for dinner at six, starting with a champagne cocktail hour with crab salad in endive spears, followed by chestnut soup with warm popovers, slow-roasted artic char plastered with herbs, and for dessert, an adaptation of David Lebovitz's Champagne Citrus Gelée, from his excellent first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060191856/kqedorg-20\">Room for Dessert\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/davidlebovitz\">Lebovitz\u003c/a>, who used to be a pastry chef at Chez Panisse, took the ex-pat route over a decade ago and has since created an enviable life for himself in Paris, writing cookbooks and a very popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/\">blog\u003c/a>, teaching cooking workshops, and leading food/chocolate/pastry tours throughout France. In my experience, every recipe of his that I've made has been plate-cleaningly delicious, since he has not just skill and smarts but also a great palate and a willingness to test and test and test again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, however, is my own version of Lebovitz's recipe, tweaked and modified to reflect my personal taste. But I'm absolutely indebted to his book for the original concept, and for creating a dessert that's not only sparkly and festive but also perfectly seasonal for San Francisco in the wintertime, when the citrus and pomegranates come in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can also be eaten by almost everyone, no mean feat in the Bay Area. Wheat-, gluten-, dairy-, and fat-free, there's nothing here to wreak havoc on even the most stringent January 1st resolution. No, you couldn't serve it to vegans, but you could probably mess around and figure out how to replace the gelatin with agar-agar. Skipping the alcohol? Replace the champagne with a pleasant, not-too-sweet sparkling fruit juice. Strictly no-sugar? Serve the citrus compote plain. Even without the gelée, the colors look gorgeous enough to be worth a toast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sparkling Citrus Gelée\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLook for the little orange-and-white boxes of Knox unflavored gelatin in the powdered dessert mix/Jell-O section of the baking aisle. Don't even \u003cem>think\u003c/em> of using lemon Jell-O. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Serves 8\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n2 navel oranges\u003cbr>\n2 blood oranges\u003cbr>\n1-2 tbsp good-quality orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier (not the cheap stuff that tastes like baby aspirin)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 envelopes powdered unflavored gelatin (such as Knox)\u003cbr>\n1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar, or to taste\u003cbr>\n1 bottle (750 ml) sparkling wine, Prosecco, or Champagne (not Cooks, but not Tattinger, either. Something Californian in the $10-$15 range should be just fine)\u003cbr>\nJuice of 1 lime or lemon (and use a real one, not a squirt from one of those nasty plastic jobs full of bitter battery acid)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 kumquats, ends and seeds removed, sliced thinly\u003cbr>\nSeeds of 1 large pomegranate\u003cbr>\nSoft Candied Citrus Peel in syrup (see below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. First, prep your fruit: Cut off the top and bottom of the grapefruit so it sits flat, then slice off peel and white membrane from top to bottom in vertical strips, moving around the circumference. Trim off every speck of white pith. Really, get it off now. You'll thank me later. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cupping the now-naked fruit with one hand, free the fruit segments from between the \"fans\" of tough membrane using a small sharp paring knife. Do this over a bowl so you can catch all the excess juice. Slice or wiggle the fruit out, so you get a glistening arc of membrane-free fruit. Drop fruit slices into the bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Repeat with remaining grapefruits and oranges. Sprinkle with orange liqueur, if desired. Refrigerate, tightly covered, if not using right away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. When you're ready to make the gelée, drain juice from fruit segments and reserve; you should have at least 1 cup. Sprinkle gelatin over 1/2 cup reserved fruit juice and let soften for 5 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Heat additional 1/2 cup juice with sugar until sugar dissolves and mixture is hot. Pour sugar syrup over gelatin and stir until gelatin is thoroughly dissolved. Pour the gelatin mixture into a big bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Pop the cork on your sparkling wine and pour in the whole bottle. Watch out for the froth! Add about half the lime or lemon juice, then taste and add more as needed. Cover and refrigerate until it begins to thicken and set.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Make the candied peel in syrup (recipe below), or take it out of the fridge if you made it earlier. Warm gently until syrup is liquid again. Stir in sliced kumquats. Take off heat and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Take out 8 stemmed parfait or wine glasses. Drain the kumquats/candied peel. (Save the orange syrup if you can think of something to do with it later). Get out the gelée, the pomegranate seeds, and the bowl of fruit slices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. To assemble, spoon some of the gelée into each glass. Add some pomegranate seeds, a few pieces of citrus, a few slices of kumquat, and a few strands of candied peel. Continue layering gelée, pomegranate seeds, citrus, kumquat, and candied peel until glass is full. Repeat with remaining glasses. Chill for several hours, until fully set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soft Candied Citrus Peel\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 lemons or oranges, preferably organic, washed\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups water\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp corn syrup or honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Remove zest (the colored part of the peel) with a vegetable peeler. Cut lengthwise into very narrow strips. Cover peel with water, bring to a boil, and cook until soft and translucent, about 5-6 minutes. Drain peel and discard water. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Bring 1 1/2 cups water, sugar, and syrup to a boil. Add peel, reduce heat, and simmer until peel is translucent and candied-looking, about 20 minutes. Cool in syrup and refrigerate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sparkling Citrus Gelée photo by Steve Duell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/cocktail-nye300.jpg\" alt=\"Sparkling Citrus Gelee. Photo by Steve Duell\" title=\"Sparkling Citrus Gelee. Photo by Steve Duell\" width=\"300\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9361\">What are you doing for New Year's Eve? As much as I'd like to be waltzing in silver lamé, this year I'll be taking a page from the late novelist and essayist Laurie Colwin, who wrote persuasively in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060955317/kqedorg-20\">More Home Cooking\u003c/a> about the joys of opting out of the big razzle-dazzle. Instead, she brought the party home, making a tradition out of sharing champagne, salmon, and homemade biscuits with friends and family at home. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, who wants to scramble for reservations when so many restaurants will be flinging confetti on the tablecloths and pushing high-priced prix fixe menus and set seatings?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, I'll be corralling a small group for dinner at six, starting with a champagne cocktail hour with crab salad in endive spears, followed by chestnut soup with warm popovers, slow-roasted artic char plastered with herbs, and for dessert, an adaptation of David Lebovitz's Champagne Citrus Gelée, from his excellent first cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060191856/kqedorg-20\">Room for Dessert\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/davidlebovitz\">Lebovitz\u003c/a>, who used to be a pastry chef at Chez Panisse, took the ex-pat route over a decade ago and has since created an enviable life for himself in Paris, writing cookbooks and a very popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/\">blog\u003c/a>, teaching cooking workshops, and leading food/chocolate/pastry tours throughout France. In my experience, every recipe of his that I've made has been plate-cleaningly delicious, since he has not just skill and smarts but also a great palate and a willingness to test and test and test again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, however, is my own version of Lebovitz's recipe, tweaked and modified to reflect my personal taste. But I'm absolutely indebted to his book for the original concept, and for creating a dessert that's not only sparkly and festive but also perfectly seasonal for San Francisco in the wintertime, when the citrus and pomegranates come in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can also be eaten by almost everyone, no mean feat in the Bay Area. Wheat-, gluten-, dairy-, and fat-free, there's nothing here to wreak havoc on even the most stringent January 1st resolution. No, you couldn't serve it to vegans, but you could probably mess around and figure out how to replace the gelatin with agar-agar. Skipping the alcohol? Replace the champagne with a pleasant, not-too-sweet sparkling fruit juice. Strictly no-sugar? Serve the citrus compote plain. Even without the gelée, the colors look gorgeous enough to be worth a toast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sparkling Citrus Gelée\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLook for the little orange-and-white boxes of Knox unflavored gelatin in the powdered dessert mix/Jell-O section of the baking aisle. Don't even \u003cem>think\u003c/em> of using lemon Jell-O. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Serves 8\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 pink grapefruits\u003cbr>\n2 navel oranges\u003cbr>\n2 blood oranges\u003cbr>\n1-2 tbsp good-quality orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier (not the cheap stuff that tastes like baby aspirin)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 envelopes powdered unflavored gelatin (such as Knox)\u003cbr>\n1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar, or to taste\u003cbr>\n1 bottle (750 ml) sparkling wine, Prosecco, or Champagne (not Cooks, but not Tattinger, either. Something Californian in the $10-$15 range should be just fine)\u003cbr>\nJuice of 1 lime or lemon (and use a real one, not a squirt from one of those nasty plastic jobs full of bitter battery acid)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 kumquats, ends and seeds removed, sliced thinly\u003cbr>\nSeeds of 1 large pomegranate\u003cbr>\nSoft Candied Citrus Peel in syrup (see below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. First, prep your fruit: Cut off the top and bottom of the grapefruit so it sits flat, then slice off peel and white membrane from top to bottom in vertical strips, moving around the circumference. Trim off every speck of white pith. Really, get it off now. You'll thank me later. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cupping the now-naked fruit with one hand, free the fruit segments from between the \"fans\" of tough membrane using a small sharp paring knife. Do this over a bowl so you can catch all the excess juice. Slice or wiggle the fruit out, so you get a glistening arc of membrane-free fruit. Drop fruit slices into the bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Repeat with remaining grapefruits and oranges. Sprinkle with orange liqueur, if desired. Refrigerate, tightly covered, if not using right away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. When you're ready to make the gelée, drain juice from fruit segments and reserve; you should have at least 1 cup. Sprinkle gelatin over 1/2 cup reserved fruit juice and let soften for 5 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Heat additional 1/2 cup juice with sugar until sugar dissolves and mixture is hot. Pour sugar syrup over gelatin and stir until gelatin is thoroughly dissolved. Pour the gelatin mixture into a big bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Pop the cork on your sparkling wine and pour in the whole bottle. Watch out for the froth! Add about half the lime or lemon juice, then taste and add more as needed. Cover and refrigerate until it begins to thicken and set.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Make the candied peel in syrup (recipe below), or take it out of the fridge if you made it earlier. Warm gently until syrup is liquid again. Stir in sliced kumquats. Take off heat and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Take out 8 stemmed parfait or wine glasses. Drain the kumquats/candied peel. (Save the orange syrup if you can think of something to do with it later). Get out the gelée, the pomegranate seeds, and the bowl of fruit slices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. To assemble, spoon some of the gelée into each glass. Add some pomegranate seeds, a few pieces of citrus, a few slices of kumquat, and a few strands of candied peel. Continue layering gelée, pomegranate seeds, citrus, kumquat, and candied peel until glass is full. Repeat with remaining glasses. Chill for several hours, until fully set. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soft Candied Citrus Peel\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 lemons or oranges, preferably organic, washed\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups water\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp corn syrup or honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Remove zest (the colored part of the peel) with a vegetable peeler. Cut lengthwise into very narrow strips. Cover peel with water, bring to a boil, and cook until soft and translucent, about 5-6 minutes. Drain peel and discard water. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Bring 1 1/2 cups water, sugar, and syrup to a boil. Add peel, reduce heat, and simmer until peel is translucent and candied-looking, about 20 minutes. Cool in syrup and refrigerate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/steakpotatoes-248x140.jpg\" alt=\"steak and potatoes\" title=\"steak and potatoes\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9335\">\u003cstrong>KQED Radio's Forum:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/epArchive/R200912291000\">The Decade in Food\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nIn the past decade, the Bay Area's hippest food has changed from teetering geometric towers of raw tuna to a simple slab of pork with a side of potatoes. The dainty Apple-tini ordered in the early part of the decade has given way to the masculine Manhattan. Forum talks about the food and cocktail trends of the decade.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"wmode\" value=\"transparent\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R200912291000.xml\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" wmode=\"transparent\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R200912291000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Scott Shafer\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong> Lessley Anderson, senior editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com\">Chow.com\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n",
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"excerpt": "In the past decade, the Bay Area's hippest food has changed from teetering geometric towers of raw tuna to a simple slab of pork with a side of potatoes. The dainty Apple-tini ordered in the early part of the decade has given way to the masculine Manhattan. Forum talks about the food and cocktail trends of the decade. \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/12/29/forum-the-decade-in-food/\">Listen to the program online!\u003c/a>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/steakpotatoes-248x140.jpg\" alt=\"steak and potatoes\" title=\"steak and potatoes\" width=\"248\" height=\"140\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9335\">\u003cstrong>KQED Radio's Forum:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/epArchive/R200912291000\">The Decade in Food\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nIn the past decade, the Bay Area's hippest food has changed from teetering geometric towers of raw tuna to a simple slab of pork with a side of potatoes. The dainty Apple-tini ordered in the early part of the decade has given way to the masculine Manhattan. Forum talks about the food and cocktail trends of the decade.\u003cbr clear=\"all\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"335\" height=\"85\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\">\u003cparam name=\"wmode\" value=\"transparent\">\u003cparam name=\"flashvars\" value=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R200912291000.xml\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.kqed.org/assets/flash/kqedplayer.swf\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" wmode=\"transparent\" width=\"335\" height=\"85\" flashvars=\"file=http://www.kqed.org/radio/archives/R200912291000.xml\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Host:\u003c/strong> Scott Shafer\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Guest:\u003c/strong> Lessley Anderson, senior editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com\">Chow.com\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>If all the raindrops\u003cbr>\nWere lemondrops and gumdrops\u003cbr>\nOh, what a rain that would be!\u003cbr>\nStanding outside, with my mouth open wide\u003cbr>\nAh, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah\u003cbr>\nIf all the raindrops\u003cbr>\nWere lemondrops and gumdrops\u003cbr>\nOh, what a rain that would be!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If all the snowflakes\u003cbr>\nWere candy bars and milkshakes\u003cbr>\nOh, what a snow that would be!\u003cbr>\nStanding outside, with my mouth open wide\u003cbr>\nAh, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah\u003cbr>\nIf all the snowflakes\u003cbr>\nWere candy bars and milkshakes\u003cbr>\nOh, what a snow that would be! \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>These are lyrics from a horrible song by \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsKO_r76kfQ\">Barney, the big purple dinosaur\u003c/a>. The fact that I know it means I've spent too much time working with small children. As you can sense here, the tune unfolds as a series of meditations on a central theme. The first section poses a question and offers up a winsome, catchy answer; the second breathlessly imagines an equally scrumptious scenario, and resolves in the same fashion. Each verse ends with a fantasy plucked straight out of some powdered sugar-smeared four-year old's optimistic re-write of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloudy_with_a_Chance_of_Meatballs\">Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\u003c/a>. What's (sort of) fun about the song though -- at least for four-year olds -- is that the verses lend themselves to inspired free association. If all the night fog were 'nilla fudge and eggnog, for example. The possibilities are limitless so long as you adhere to the childish conceit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless all the sunbeams happened to be kosher salt and sea bream, the world described in this tune would be a wretched place for me to inhabit. Even if widespread stickiness and insect onslaughts didn't pose insurmountable sanitation problems, I would be submerged in gastronomic hell, soaked in a deluge of food I didn't like and everyone else -- joyous screaming little ones skating on lakes of jelly, old ladies slipping on hard candy cobblestones, climbers chewing their way to the tops of cookie mountains -- seemed to love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweets can pretty much shove it. That's the short story, I suppose, but in truth, it's a complicated issue of taste. You see, I like most pies, especially plum, chocolate in croissants and puddings, lemon bars, caramel ice cream, malts, and jelly beans. I respect carrot cake, mostly for its steadfast association with cream cheese frosting. I will rarely refuse a sandwich cookie when it's offered. I am open to enlightenment courtesy of thrilling and creative restaurant desserts of all sorts. Yet I never crave sweet things or go out of my way to consume them. I'm convinced the very bland affection I do muster is a product of 29 years spent immersed in a culture obsessed with them. Desserts are not central to my eating routines, or even peripheral. If they disappeared, I would shed no corn syrupy tears. In the end, I eat them if they are around because, simply put, I will eat nearly anything. Unfortunately, they are often around -- one-dimensional and over-bearing, yet brutally effective at providing the jolts of fat and sugar we're conditioned to desire. Two weeks ago, I was substituting for a flu-ridden history teacher at Lowell High. A kid suggested I let the class leave five minutes early, and I said no. He then asked if I'd accept a chocolate bribe. Having left my meager lunch of leftovers at home, I wondered out loud if he might be able to find me fried chicken instead. Give me the choice between savory and sweet and I'll always lean towards the former. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/truffles500.jpg\" alt=\"truffles\" title=\"truffles\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9309\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This frosting-heavy time of year, sweet reigns supreme. In the days leading up to Christmas, office kitchens look like Candyland blooming with cheap chocolate truffles, tins of shortbread, fruitcake, and panettone from Walgreens. Red-and-white canes and Hershey's kisses bulge in stockings. Avid bakers exchange trays of garish cookies iced green, red, and snowy white. Holiday celebrations can be as much about sugar as booze -- particularly work parties, oddly enough. Four years ago, I wore a crisp shirt in the basement of a Financial District hotel and sipped whiskey, glumly watching pastries and puddings vanish from platters as the big boss -- white-maned, stooped, a long arm wrapped around his beaming wife -- grimly intoned that it had been a good year. Hooray, everyone had shouted, thinking of their bonuses, toasting, lowering slices of a towering cake onto plates. The sight of so much confection made me feel sicker than did all the Jack Daniel's I was drinking. I'm prejudiced against sweets. Individuals are reasonably fine, but as a whole population, they rub me the wrong way. So I give out homemade hot sauce and artisanal salame as holiday gifts, and refrain from ordering dessert in restaurants unless I'm with someone's mom or dining in a professional capacity. Part of the problem is the infantile glee sweets elicit in people -- even though they're often described in silly quasi-adult terms -- sinful, indulgent, naughty, and lusty -- and framed as transgressions for which to (eventually) feel guilt. It puts me off. Every late December, cubicle jockeys scuttle down hallways, scarfing whatever delights happen to be circulating around their offices. At the same time, they vocally fret over how their excesses will impact their health and appearance. Inevitably, they resolve to do penance the following week, once the season is over. \"I shouldn't be doing this,\" I once heard a co-worker sigh blandly, her hands digging determinedly into a box for the last lumpy cupcake, \"but I'm doing it.\" Weirdly enough, I first heard those words muttered by the slimy male lead of a classic 1980s adult film. He was committing adultery with the help of two video store clerks, and surfing past a fleeting twinge of contrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The love/hate relationships people carry on with sweets may come from culture, but we're actually biologically wired to want them in the first place. Last year, some scientists \u003ca href=\"http://www.thelifeledger.com/2008/04/16/scientists-discover-why-addicted-sweets/\">figured out\u003c/a> that our brains can sense the calories in food independent of what we're tasting by presenting \"sweet-blind\" mice with water samples laced with sucralose and real sugar. The mice preferred the samples with calories. As it turned out, the mousy reward system is galvanized into action by caloric intake, as levels of the brain chemical dopamine, known to be central to sparking that system's circuitry, spike with each sip. My chemicals too may sizzle in the presence of a Twix bar, but my reward system clearly responds more feebly than most -- because I never feel rewarded after an encounter. I'm not alone in my attitude. I know people with heartier aversions. A friend from college won't even drink orange juice. Another friend's dad candidly once told me he didn't like sweets because he drank too much, and something about the combination didn't jive with his system. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweets are even harder to take after the holidays, once they're stale. Mass-produced candies may outlive us all, but those old abandoned cookies, their iced tops hardened and cracked, the fossilized fruitcakes -- a few days after Christmas, they start looking like ruins, diminutive \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_Gardens\">Grey Gardens\u003c/a>, once decadent, now downtrodden, in shambles. There's something very lonely about them -- especially when its clear time and care went into their preparation -- and they're hard to throw away -- even if you didn't really want them in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\u003cem>If all the raindrops\u003cbr>\nWere lemondrops and gumdrops\u003cbr>\nOh, what a rain that would be!\u003cbr>\nStanding outside, with my mouth open wide\u003cbr>\nAh, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah\u003cbr>\nIf all the raindrops\u003cbr>\nWere lemondrops and gumdrops\u003cbr>\nOh, what a rain that would be!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If all the snowflakes\u003cbr>\nWere candy bars and milkshakes\u003cbr>\nOh, what a snow that would be!\u003cbr>\nStanding outside, with my mouth open wide\u003cbr>\nAh, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah, ah\u003cbr>\nIf all the snowflakes\u003cbr>\nWere candy bars and milkshakes\u003cbr>\nOh, what a snow that would be! \u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>These are lyrics from a horrible song by \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsKO_r76kfQ\">Barney, the big purple dinosaur\u003c/a>. The fact that I know it means I've spent too much time working with small children. As you can sense here, the tune unfolds as a series of meditations on a central theme. The first section poses a question and offers up a winsome, catchy answer; the second breathlessly imagines an equally scrumptious scenario, and resolves in the same fashion. Each verse ends with a fantasy plucked straight out of some powdered sugar-smeared four-year old's optimistic re-write of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cloudy_with_a_Chance_of_Meatballs\">Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs\u003c/a>. What's (sort of) fun about the song though -- at least for four-year olds -- is that the verses lend themselves to inspired free association. If all the night fog were 'nilla fudge and eggnog, for example. The possibilities are limitless so long as you adhere to the childish conceit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless all the sunbeams happened to be kosher salt and sea bream, the world described in this tune would be a wretched place for me to inhabit. Even if widespread stickiness and insect onslaughts didn't pose insurmountable sanitation problems, I would be submerged in gastronomic hell, soaked in a deluge of food I didn't like and everyone else -- joyous screaming little ones skating on lakes of jelly, old ladies slipping on hard candy cobblestones, climbers chewing their way to the tops of cookie mountains -- seemed to love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweets can pretty much shove it. That's the short story, I suppose, but in truth, it's a complicated issue of taste. You see, I like most pies, especially plum, chocolate in croissants and puddings, lemon bars, caramel ice cream, malts, and jelly beans. I respect carrot cake, mostly for its steadfast association with cream cheese frosting. I will rarely refuse a sandwich cookie when it's offered. I am open to enlightenment courtesy of thrilling and creative restaurant desserts of all sorts. Yet I never crave sweet things or go out of my way to consume them. I'm convinced the very bland affection I do muster is a product of 29 years spent immersed in a culture obsessed with them. Desserts are not central to my eating routines, or even peripheral. If they disappeared, I would shed no corn syrupy tears. In the end, I eat them if they are around because, simply put, I will eat nearly anything. Unfortunately, they are often around -- one-dimensional and over-bearing, yet brutally effective at providing the jolts of fat and sugar we're conditioned to desire. Two weeks ago, I was substituting for a flu-ridden history teacher at Lowell High. A kid suggested I let the class leave five minutes early, and I said no. He then asked if I'd accept a chocolate bribe. Having left my meager lunch of leftovers at home, I wondered out loud if he might be able to find me fried chicken instead. Give me the choice between savory and sweet and I'll always lean towards the former. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/truffles500.jpg\" alt=\"truffles\" title=\"truffles\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9309\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This frosting-heavy time of year, sweet reigns supreme. In the days leading up to Christmas, office kitchens look like Candyland blooming with cheap chocolate truffles, tins of shortbread, fruitcake, and panettone from Walgreens. Red-and-white canes and Hershey's kisses bulge in stockings. Avid bakers exchange trays of garish cookies iced green, red, and snowy white. Holiday celebrations can be as much about sugar as booze -- particularly work parties, oddly enough. Four years ago, I wore a crisp shirt in the basement of a Financial District hotel and sipped whiskey, glumly watching pastries and puddings vanish from platters as the big boss -- white-maned, stooped, a long arm wrapped around his beaming wife -- grimly intoned that it had been a good year. Hooray, everyone had shouted, thinking of their bonuses, toasting, lowering slices of a towering cake onto plates. The sight of so much confection made me feel sicker than did all the Jack Daniel's I was drinking. I'm prejudiced against sweets. Individuals are reasonably fine, but as a whole population, they rub me the wrong way. So I give out homemade hot sauce and artisanal salame as holiday gifts, and refrain from ordering dessert in restaurants unless I'm with someone's mom or dining in a professional capacity. Part of the problem is the infantile glee sweets elicit in people -- even though they're often described in silly quasi-adult terms -- sinful, indulgent, naughty, and lusty -- and framed as transgressions for which to (eventually) feel guilt. It puts me off. Every late December, cubicle jockeys scuttle down hallways, scarfing whatever delights happen to be circulating around their offices. At the same time, they vocally fret over how their excesses will impact their health and appearance. Inevitably, they resolve to do penance the following week, once the season is over. \"I shouldn't be doing this,\" I once heard a co-worker sigh blandly, her hands digging determinedly into a box for the last lumpy cupcake, \"but I'm doing it.\" Weirdly enough, I first heard those words muttered by the slimy male lead of a classic 1980s adult film. He was committing adultery with the help of two video store clerks, and surfing past a fleeting twinge of contrition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The love/hate relationships people carry on with sweets may come from culture, but we're actually biologically wired to want them in the first place. Last year, some scientists \u003ca href=\"http://www.thelifeledger.com/2008/04/16/scientists-discover-why-addicted-sweets/\">figured out\u003c/a> that our brains can sense the calories in food independent of what we're tasting by presenting \"sweet-blind\" mice with water samples laced with sucralose and real sugar. The mice preferred the samples with calories. As it turned out, the mousy reward system is galvanized into action by caloric intake, as levels of the brain chemical dopamine, known to be central to sparking that system's circuitry, spike with each sip. My chemicals too may sizzle in the presence of a Twix bar, but my reward system clearly responds more feebly than most -- because I never feel rewarded after an encounter. I'm not alone in my attitude. I know people with heartier aversions. A friend from college won't even drink orange juice. Another friend's dad candidly once told me he didn't like sweets because he drank too much, and something about the combination didn't jive with his system. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweets are even harder to take after the holidays, once they're stale. Mass-produced candies may outlive us all, but those old abandoned cookies, their iced tops hardened and cracked, the fossilized fruitcakes -- a few days after Christmas, they start looking like ruins, diminutive \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grey_Gardens\">Grey Gardens\u003c/a>, once decadent, now downtrodden, in shambles. There's something very lonely about them -- especially when its clear time and care went into their preparation -- and they're hard to throw away -- even if you didn't really want them in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/celtic-chutney-cheese500.jpg\" alt=\"fig chutney with cheese, crackers, and cashews. Photo by Scott Hawkins\" title=\"fig chutney with cheese, crackers, and cashews. Photo by Scott Hawkins\" width=\"500\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9277\">\u003cem>Fig chutney with cheese, crackers, and cashews.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did you like your presents? Although I was hoping for cashmere socks, the funniest, \u003ca href=\"http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=37228555&ref=sr_gallery_1&&ga_search_query=bird+with+french+fry&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_page=&includes%5B%5D=tags&includes%5B%5D=title\">etsy\u003c/a>-est thing I got this year was a little poster from my sister, printed in block type, that read, \"Today I will be happier than a bird with a French fry.\" Words to live by, my friends!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what else do you have, in the holiday aftermath? The days after Christmas are often the best part, when the stress-inducing members of the family have gone up to the Wharf or down to Disneyland, and you're left with the fun sibs, the leftover booze, and a fridge full of leftover cold turkey and ham. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's better than a stiff drink and a ham-and-turkey sandwich with people you never have to impress? I'll tell you: a ham-and-turkey sandwich dolloped with chutney, that's what. And not just any common-or-garden chutney, no sirree Bob, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcquadechutneys.com\">McQuade's Celtic Chutney\u003c/a>, made by red-headed Scotswoman Alison McQuade in small, aromatic batches, just like you would at home, if you were lucky enough to come from chutney-making people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hailing from Glasgow, McQuade comes by the Celtic appellation honestly, but her chutneys have a distinct California twist, thanks to the spark of heat and spice that zaps each one. Habanero and apple, fig and ginger (made with dried figs), and spiced apple are her mainstays, with other varieties rotated in depending on what's in season. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking through the darkened downtown San Francisco restaurant where McQuade rents kitchen space in the off hours, I could smell the sharp, sweet zip of spice and vinegar the moment I stepped in from the street. Back in the small, fluorescent-lit kitchen, McQuade and an assistant are stirring two pots on the stove, each half-full chopped figs, cider vinegar, brown sugar, raisins, apples, lemon zest and a plum pudding's worth of spices—nutmeg, ginger, allspice, cloves, cinnamon—all cooking down to a rich and fragrant gloss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the counter are boxes of fresh Fuyu persimmons, a backyard gift from the owners of the Hidden Vine wine bar nearby, a favorite hangout of McQuade's. They'll go into a new winter favorite, persimmon-habanero chutney. At the cozy Farm:Table cafe just a few blocks away (where McQuade often starts her day), jars of ruby cranberry-mandarin Christmas chutney are stacked up by the cash register. For McQuade, the chutney business is as much about building relationships and forging community as it is about filling jars. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of McQuade's ingredients are sourced locally, from farms like Torey's Farms, which she loves for their top-quality stone fruit and citrus. Cooking in small quantities (each batch usually fills about 30 7-oz jars) allows for a lot of flexibility. If something good turns up—fresh spring rhubarb, those backyard persimmons, a great deal on bananas or pineapple—she can adjust (or invent) a recipe on the spot, tossing the new variety into her ever-evolving product line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many small-scale food artisans, McQuade had a long professional career first, working for the British Consulate and at law firms in both New York and Los Angeles. Missing the chutneys her grandmother had made while she was growing up in Scotland, she set to making a few jars for family and friends, bringing them to parties and giving it as gifts. Her hairdresser happened to try some, and a few days later called her from the salon. Get down here now with your chutney, she demanded. There's someone here who needs to try it. McQuade, mystified but intrigued, grabbed a few jars and headed over. The woman in question took a taste and asked for 60 cases on the spot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She turned out to be Peggy Smith, one of the founders of Cowgirl Creamery, whose cheese shops have remained one of McQuade's best customers. That was 5 years ago, and now McQuade's chutneys are available in shops throughout the Bay Area, including Bi-Rite, Falletti's, Tomales Bay Foods, Whole Foods, Cheese Plus, and more. Restaurant and bars like Range, Hidden Vine, and the St. Francis Hotel's Clock Bar have found uses for her sweet-spicy-tangy spreads, adding it to cheese plates, even putting it into cocktails themselves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, she's been exploring more savory ways of using her chutneys, like shrimp stir-fry made with habanero chutney, or pork roast glazed with fig. Scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, blue cheese, just about any kind of cold meat or sandwich: they're all the better for a smear of chutney to keep out the cold. Even peanut butter's better for a chutney hookup: the late (and much-loved) novelist and food writer Laurie Colwin often waxed rhapsodic about chutney, fondly recalling a tiny, perfect peanut butter-and-chutney sandwich she'd been served once at a cocktail party. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For next year, McQuade is working on a line of savory shortbreads flavored with fresh herbs like thyme and rosemary. Will they go with chutney? Did you even have to ask? \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "What's better than a stiff drink and a ham-and-turkey sandwich with people you never have to impress? I'll tell you: a ham-and-turkey sandwich dolloped with chutney, that's what. And not just any common-or-garden chutney, no sirree Bob, but McQuade's Celtic Chutney, made by red-headed Scotswoman Alison McQuade in small, aromatic batches, just like you would at home, if you were lucky enough to come from chutney-making people. \r\n\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/celtic-chutney-cheese500.jpg\" alt=\"fig chutney with cheese, crackers, and cashews. Photo by Scott Hawkins\" title=\"fig chutney with cheese, crackers, and cashews. Photo by Scott Hawkins\" width=\"500\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9277\">\u003cem>Fig chutney with cheese, crackers, and cashews.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did you like your presents? Although I was hoping for cashmere socks, the funniest, \u003ca href=\"http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=37228555&ref=sr_gallery_1&&ga_search_query=bird+with+french+fry&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_page=&includes%5B%5D=tags&includes%5B%5D=title\">etsy\u003c/a>-est thing I got this year was a little poster from my sister, printed in block type, that read, \"Today I will be happier than a bird with a French fry.\" Words to live by, my friends!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what else do you have, in the holiday aftermath? The days after Christmas are often the best part, when the stress-inducing members of the family have gone up to the Wharf or down to Disneyland, and you're left with the fun sibs, the leftover booze, and a fridge full of leftover cold turkey and ham. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's better than a stiff drink and a ham-and-turkey sandwich with people you never have to impress? I'll tell you: a ham-and-turkey sandwich dolloped with chutney, that's what. And not just any common-or-garden chutney, no sirree Bob, but \u003ca href=\"http://www.mcquadechutneys.com\">McQuade's Celtic Chutney\u003c/a>, made by red-headed Scotswoman Alison McQuade in small, aromatic batches, just like you would at home, if you were lucky enough to come from chutney-making people. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hailing from Glasgow, McQuade comes by the Celtic appellation honestly, but her chutneys have a distinct California twist, thanks to the spark of heat and spice that zaps each one. Habanero and apple, fig and ginger (made with dried figs), and spiced apple are her mainstays, with other varieties rotated in depending on what's in season. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Walking through the darkened downtown San Francisco restaurant where McQuade rents kitchen space in the off hours, I could smell the sharp, sweet zip of spice and vinegar the moment I stepped in from the street. Back in the small, fluorescent-lit kitchen, McQuade and an assistant are stirring two pots on the stove, each half-full chopped figs, cider vinegar, brown sugar, raisins, apples, lemon zest and a plum pudding's worth of spices—nutmeg, ginger, allspice, cloves, cinnamon—all cooking down to a rich and fragrant gloss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the counter are boxes of fresh Fuyu persimmons, a backyard gift from the owners of the Hidden Vine wine bar nearby, a favorite hangout of McQuade's. They'll go into a new winter favorite, persimmon-habanero chutney. At the cozy Farm:Table cafe just a few blocks away (where McQuade often starts her day), jars of ruby cranberry-mandarin Christmas chutney are stacked up by the cash register. For McQuade, the chutney business is as much about building relationships and forging community as it is about filling jars. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of McQuade's ingredients are sourced locally, from farms like Torey's Farms, which she loves for their top-quality stone fruit and citrus. Cooking in small quantities (each batch usually fills about 30 7-oz jars) allows for a lot of flexibility. If something good turns up—fresh spring rhubarb, those backyard persimmons, a great deal on bananas or pineapple—she can adjust (or invent) a recipe on the spot, tossing the new variety into her ever-evolving product line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many small-scale food artisans, McQuade had a long professional career first, working for the British Consulate and at law firms in both New York and Los Angeles. Missing the chutneys her grandmother had made while she was growing up in Scotland, she set to making a few jars for family and friends, bringing them to parties and giving it as gifts. Her hairdresser happened to try some, and a few days later called her from the salon. Get down here now with your chutney, she demanded. There's someone here who needs to try it. McQuade, mystified but intrigued, grabbed a few jars and headed over. The woman in question took a taste and asked for 60 cases on the spot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She turned out to be Peggy Smith, one of the founders of Cowgirl Creamery, whose cheese shops have remained one of McQuade's best customers. That was 5 years ago, and now McQuade's chutneys are available in shops throughout the Bay Area, including Bi-Rite, Falletti's, Tomales Bay Foods, Whole Foods, Cheese Plus, and more. Restaurant and bars like Range, Hidden Vine, and the St. Francis Hotel's Clock Bar have found uses for her sweet-spicy-tangy spreads, adding it to cheese plates, even putting it into cocktails themselves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lately, she's been exploring more savory ways of using her chutneys, like shrimp stir-fry made with habanero chutney, or pork roast glazed with fig. Scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, blue cheese, just about any kind of cold meat or sandwich: they're all the better for a smear of chutney to keep out the cold. Even peanut butter's better for a chutney hookup: the late (and much-loved) novelist and food writer Laurie Colwin often waxed rhapsodic about chutney, fondly recalling a tiny, perfect peanut butter-and-chutney sandwich she'd been served once at a cocktail party. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For next year, McQuade is working on a line of savory shortbreads flavored with fresh herbs like thyme and rosemary. Will they go with chutney? Did you even have to ask? \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-9170 aligncenter\" title=\"Scrooge and Bob Cratchit\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Scrooge-and-Bob-Cratchit.jpg\" alt=\"Scrooge and Bob Cratchit\" width=\"382\" height=\"427\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"A merry Christmas, Bob! Said Scrooge, with an earnestness that could not be mistaken…I'll raise your salary, and endeavour to assist your struggling family, and we will discuss your affairs this very afternoon, over a Christmas bowl of smoking bishop, Bob!...\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like a lot of Christmas revelers out there, I count \u003cem>A Christmas Carol\u003c/em> as my favorite holiday story. Yet my reason for loving this Dickens tale is probably a little different than you might expect. Although I find Scrooge's metamorphoses from Bah-humbug kill joy to jolly benefactor heartwarming, I adore his transition from gruel eater to Smoking Bishop drinker even more. In one day, old Ebenezer goes from eating only to survive -- I mean, come on, gruel for dinner on Christmas Eve? -- to purchasing the largest and best Christmas turkey in London. His change is so dramatic that he actually suggests imbibing a bowl of Smoking Bishop early in the day with the much abused Bob Cratchit. I find this act even more profound than when he raises Bob's salary a moment earlier. It's Ebenezer Scrooge's wish to indulge in a holiday cocktail that seems the greatest evidence he has found his yuletide soul. Ah... good old converted Scrooge and his new-found love of the drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what is Smoking Bishop and how did it get such an entertaining name? I did a little research and found a great clip from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=890045\">Morning Edition episode in 2002\u003c/a> on NPR. In the piece, Neda Ulaby interviews Cedrick Dickens, Charles Dickens great-grandson, who explains that \"people back in the 1800s enjoyed a whole range of 'clerical drinks,' and Smoking Bishop was one of these. \"Pope is burgundy, Cardinal is champagne or rye, Archbishop is claret, Bishop is port, and so on,\" Dickens goes on to say. I just love the English and their naming conventions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smoking Bishop is basically a type of warmed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/06/05/sangria-the-ultimate-summer-refresher/\">sangria\u003c/a> made with port. From what I can tell, it's a traditional Christmas drink, but I'm not sure if this happened because of the reference in \u003cem>A Christmas Carol,\u003c/em> or if it was already a holiday beverage before that. Whatever the case, as a lover of sangria and \u003cem>A Christmas Carol\u003c/em>, I think I'll need to give it a try this holiday season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 1999 version of \u003cem>A Christmas Carol\u003c/em> with Patrick Stewart is the only film version I know of where Scrooge actually calls the drink Smoking Bishop (which is how Dickens himself referred to it in the story), although as my family only watches this version (which is my daughters' favorite) and the Alastair Sim's \u003cem>Scrooge\u003c/em> (which is my favorite -- too bad he scares my kids), I'm sure there are others I'm not aware of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the all-time classic Alastair Sim's version -- who, as far as I'm concerned, plays the greatest Scrooge of all time -- they have changed the line so Scrooge now says \"a bowl of hot punch.\" I wonder if they changed the line because they didn't think anyone would know what Smoking Bishop was; whatever the case, I'll forgive them as it's a near perfect Christmas film otherwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for your own holiday entertainment, watch the full version of Seymour Hicks in Scrooge from 1935.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.youtube.com/embed/_Sr2ow_ZH9w\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make your own bowl of smoking bishop, here's the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=890045\">recipe from Ms. Ulaby's interview\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Smoking Bishop\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Take six Seville oranges and bake them in a moderate oven until pale brown. If you cannot procure any bitter Seville oranges, use four regular oranges and one large grapefruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Prick each of the oranges with five whole cloves, put them into a warmed ceramic or glass vessel with one-quarter pound of sugar and a bottle of red wine, cover the vessel, and leave it in a warm place for 24 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Take the oranges out of the mixture, cut in half and squeeze the juice, then pour the juice back into the wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Pour the mixture into a saucepan through a sieve, add a bottle of port, heat (without boiling), and serve in warmed glasses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Drink the mixture, and keep Christmas well!\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Like a lot of Christmas revelers out there, I count A Christmas Carol as my favorite holiday story. Yet my reason for loving this Dickens tale is probably a little different than you might expect. Although I find Scrooge's metamorphoses from Bah-humbug kill joy to jolly benefactor heartwarming, I adore his transition from gruel eater to Smoking Bishop drinker even more. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-9170 aligncenter\" title=\"Scrooge and Bob Cratchit\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Scrooge-and-Bob-Cratchit.jpg\" alt=\"Scrooge and Bob Cratchit\" width=\"382\" height=\"427\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"A merry Christmas, Bob! Said Scrooge, with an earnestness that could not be mistaken…I'll raise your salary, and endeavour to assist your struggling family, and we will discuss your affairs this very afternoon, over a Christmas bowl of smoking bishop, Bob!...\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like a lot of Christmas revelers out there, I count \u003cem>A Christmas Carol\u003c/em> as my favorite holiday story. Yet my reason for loving this Dickens tale is probably a little different than you might expect. Although I find Scrooge's metamorphoses from Bah-humbug kill joy to jolly benefactor heartwarming, I adore his transition from gruel eater to Smoking Bishop drinker even more. In one day, old Ebenezer goes from eating only to survive -- I mean, come on, gruel for dinner on Christmas Eve? -- to purchasing the largest and best Christmas turkey in London. His change is so dramatic that he actually suggests imbibing a bowl of Smoking Bishop early in the day with the much abused Bob Cratchit. I find this act even more profound than when he raises Bob's salary a moment earlier. It's Ebenezer Scrooge's wish to indulge in a holiday cocktail that seems the greatest evidence he has found his yuletide soul. Ah... good old converted Scrooge and his new-found love of the drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what is Smoking Bishop and how did it get such an entertaining name? I did a little research and found a great clip from a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=890045\">Morning Edition episode in 2002\u003c/a> on NPR. In the piece, Neda Ulaby interviews Cedrick Dickens, Charles Dickens great-grandson, who explains that \"people back in the 1800s enjoyed a whole range of 'clerical drinks,' and Smoking Bishop was one of these. \"Pope is burgundy, Cardinal is champagne or rye, Archbishop is claret, Bishop is port, and so on,\" Dickens goes on to say. I just love the English and their naming conventions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smoking Bishop is basically a type of warmed \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/06/05/sangria-the-ultimate-summer-refresher/\">sangria\u003c/a> made with port. From what I can tell, it's a traditional Christmas drink, but I'm not sure if this happened because of the reference in \u003cem>A Christmas Carol,\u003c/em> or if it was already a holiday beverage before that. Whatever the case, as a lover of sangria and \u003cem>A Christmas Carol\u003c/em>, I think I'll need to give it a try this holiday season.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The 1999 version of \u003cem>A Christmas Carol\u003c/em> with Patrick Stewart is the only film version I know of where Scrooge actually calls the drink Smoking Bishop (which is how Dickens himself referred to it in the story), although as my family only watches this version (which is my daughters' favorite) and the Alastair Sim's \u003cem>Scrooge\u003c/em> (which is my favorite -- too bad he scares my kids), I'm sure there are others I'm not aware of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the all-time classic Alastair Sim's version -- who, as far as I'm concerned, plays the greatest Scrooge of all time -- they have changed the line so Scrooge now says \"a bowl of hot punch.\" I wonder if they changed the line because they didn't think anyone would know what Smoking Bishop was; whatever the case, I'll forgive them as it's a near perfect Christmas film otherwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And for your own holiday entertainment, watch the full version of Seymour Hicks in Scrooge from 1935.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/_Sr2ow_ZH9w'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/_Sr2ow_ZH9w'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>To make your own bowl of smoking bishop, here's the \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=890045\">recipe from Ms. Ulaby's interview\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Smoking Bishop\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Take six Seville oranges and bake them in a moderate oven until pale brown. If you cannot procure any bitter Seville oranges, use four regular oranges and one large grapefruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Prick each of the oranges with five whole cloves, put them into a warmed ceramic or glass vessel with one-quarter pound of sugar and a bottle of red wine, cover the vessel, and leave it in a warm place for 24 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Take the oranges out of the mixture, cut in half and squeeze the juice, then pour the juice back into the wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Pour the mixture into a saucepan through a sieve, add a bottle of port, heat (without boiling), and serve in warmed glasses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>• Drink the mixture, and keep Christmas well!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Brussels Sprouts Two Ways",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Brussel-Sprouts-005.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Sprouts on the stalk\" title=\"Brussels Sprouts on the stalk\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9217\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Did you know Brussels sprouts grew on long stalks?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a late bloomer when it comes to Brussels sprouts love. It's not that I hated the stuff (as I was always told I should), I just never had it before. Then I moved to SF two years ago and with the coming of my first Thanksgiving here, was flooded with recipes by adoring fooderati who worshipped the sprout with the bad rap. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't really get why Brussels sprouts got such a reputation to begin with. They seem harmless enough. Cute in fact. And if you happen to see them on the stalk still, those bright green clusters are downright gorgeous. Looks aside, they are tasty! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My intro to Brussels sprouts adoration started off nice and easy, with generous bits of bacon or pancetta added to grease the wheel. More recently however, I have witnessed two distinctive preparations of this fascinatingly polarizing vegetable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Foodbuzz-Blogger-Festival-Dinner-11.7.09-068.jpg\" alt=\"Dennis Lee Namu Brussels Sprouts with Bonito Flakes\" title=\"Dennis Lee Namu Brussels Sprouts with Bonito Flakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9218\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first was a dish that Chef Dennis Lee of \u003ca href=\"http://namusf.com/\">Namu\u003c/a> made at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodbuzz.com/pages/festival\">Foodbuzz Blogger Festival\u003c/a> community dinner in early November.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His \u003cstrong>Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes\u003c/strong> were a work of art. Creative, complex, and soul-satisfying, in classic Namu-form. The Brussels sprouts were roasted to golden sweetness, the guanciale was appropriately full of crispy, fatty, pork goodness, and the bonito flakes added an element of surprise. The savory, smoky fish flavor blended well with the other ingredients at work, and the sight of them undulating like a creepy science project was just awesome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Thanksgiving-2009-069.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\" title=\"Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9216\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second take on Brussels sprouts that solidified my allegiance to the fan camp was one of the dishes that made my Thanksgiving potluck table this year: \u003cstrong>Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>. Potlucks can be a hit or miss, depending on the participants. We lucked out this year, as our hostess' roommate turned out to be a chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.eotrading.com/\">E&O Trading Co\u003c/a> in Larkspur. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Thanksgiving-2009-018.jpg\" alt=\"Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird\" title=\"Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9219\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Chef Rene Caceres we owe not only one of the most succulent turkeys I've ever tasted (3 days of brining will do that), but a phenomenal Brussels sprouts recipe that doesn't even lean on a bacon crutch! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The freshness of the sprouts shines in this dish. And the balance of the caramelized sweet onion and acidity of the mustard vinaigrette are the perfect complement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naysayers, this may be your turning point. Just give it a try, and let me know if you don't find yourself popping these into your mouth like truffles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from Rene Caceres\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 lb. Brussels sprouts\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion\u003cbr>\n2 oz. whole grain mustard vinaigrette\u003cbr>\n½ oz. olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For the vinaigrette:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 cup whole grain mustard\u003cbr>\n½ cup white balsamic vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tCook the Brussels sprouts in boiling water for about 15 to 20 minutes. Let them cool and cut them in half.\u003cbr>\n2.\tThinly slice the red onion and reserve.\u003cbr>\n3.\tMake the vinaigrette by combining the mustard with the vinegar. Whisk the oil slowly into the mixture and add the salt and sugar.\u003cbr>\n4.\tSauté the red onion first for about one minute. Then add the Brussels sprouts face down. Cook until they get nice and caramelized. Turn them and add the vinaigrette. Toss them together and let them cook for about 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>******************\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from Dennis Lee, Namu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 lb. Brussels sprouts\u003cbr>\n¼ lb. guanciale\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon fried garlic\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Note: You can mince and fry this yourself on the stove in a pan with enough oil (neutral oil, i.e. rice, canola, grapeseed) to coat the garlic. Fry over low heat until the garlic starts to brown, remove with metal screen strainer (it will continue to brown) and place on paper towel and spread to cool with a spoon or chopsticks. Otherwise they sell wonderful fried garlic in Asian markets in a jar.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n4 oz. ponzu\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Note: This can also be bought in an Asian grocer. If you want to make your own, its 2 parts dashi stock, 1 part soy, 1 part rice vinegar and citrus juice to taste (Meyer Lemon juice or Yuzu juice works great).\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n4 oz. soy dashi\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Note: Comprised of bonito, konbu, and soy water; or instant dashi or tsuyu (liquid dashi concentrate) are sold in Asian grocers.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon butter\u003cbr>\nExtra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nShichimi or Togarashi spice\u003cbr>\nBonito flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For the Brussels Sprouts:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1. Quarter the heads or globes so the roots stay intact, keeping the leaves together.\u003cbr>\n2. Blanch the Brussels sprouts. Always blanch in a large pot (large enough that it won't stop boiling when you drop the sprouts into it) of water with a healthy dose of salt (2-3 tablespoons). While waiting for the water to boil, prepare an ice bath. Boil the sprouts until they turn bright green, then immediately shock them in the ice bath. This can be done up to a day in advance and the sprouts can be stored, in the refrigerator covered.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nFor the Guanciale:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1. Cut the guanciale into about ½ inch cubes (remember it will slightly shrink when it cooks).\u003cbr>\n2. Boil the guanciale in a pot with the water at about 1 ½ inches above the meat. Bring it to a boil and simmer until soft. Much of the fat will render, but the flavor will remain rich. Drain and discard the liquid. This can also be done in advance and stored in a refrigerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Brussels sprouts can either be roasted or pan fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Method 1: Roasting\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nRoast the sprouts and guanciale in the oven at 375 degrees F until golden brown with enough olive oil to coat, making sure to stir it every 5 minutes or so to get an even color. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Method 2: Pan Frying (Recommended)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1. Put 1 tablespoon of butter in a pan coated with extra virgin olive oil. When the butter melts, add the guanciale and Brussels sprouts. Put the pan on high and stir fry the ingredients. You want to get a nice brown color on the leaves of the sprouts, with some crispiness. The guanciale will also crisp up a little on the surface like bacon.\u003cbr>\n2. Once everything is nicely browned, add ponzu and soy dashi. Be careful as the pan will be very hot and will sizzle when you add the wet ingredients.\u003cbr>\n3. Let this reduce to the desired flavor, making sure to regularly toss the sprouts.\u003cbr>\n4. Top with shichimi, fried garlic and bonito flakes. The flakes will dance with joy.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Brussel-Sprouts-005.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Sprouts on the stalk\" title=\"Brussels Sprouts on the stalk\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9217\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Did you know Brussels sprouts grew on long stalks?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm a late bloomer when it comes to Brussels sprouts love. It's not that I hated the stuff (as I was always told I should), I just never had it before. Then I moved to SF two years ago and with the coming of my first Thanksgiving here, was flooded with recipes by adoring fooderati who worshipped the sprout with the bad rap. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't really get why Brussels sprouts got such a reputation to begin with. They seem harmless enough. Cute in fact. And if you happen to see them on the stalk still, those bright green clusters are downright gorgeous. Looks aside, they are tasty! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My intro to Brussels sprouts adoration started off nice and easy, with generous bits of bacon or pancetta added to grease the wheel. More recently however, I have witnessed two distinctive preparations of this fascinatingly polarizing vegetable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Foodbuzz-Blogger-Festival-Dinner-11.7.09-068.jpg\" alt=\"Dennis Lee Namu Brussels Sprouts with Bonito Flakes\" title=\"Dennis Lee Namu Brussels Sprouts with Bonito Flakes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9218\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first was a dish that Chef Dennis Lee of \u003ca href=\"http://namusf.com/\">Namu\u003c/a> made at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodbuzz.com/pages/festival\">Foodbuzz Blogger Festival\u003c/a> community dinner in early November.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His \u003cstrong>Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes\u003c/strong> were a work of art. Creative, complex, and soul-satisfying, in classic Namu-form. The Brussels sprouts were roasted to golden sweetness, the guanciale was appropriately full of crispy, fatty, pork goodness, and the bonito flakes added an element of surprise. The savory, smoky fish flavor blended well with the other ingredients at work, and the sight of them undulating like a creepy science project was just awesome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Thanksgiving-2009-069.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\" title=\"Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9216\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The second take on Brussels sprouts that solidified my allegiance to the fan camp was one of the dishes that made my Thanksgiving potluck table this year: \u003cstrong>Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>. Potlucks can be a hit or miss, depending on the participants. We lucked out this year, as our hostess' roommate turned out to be a chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.eotrading.com/\">E&O Trading Co\u003c/a> in Larkspur. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Thanksgiving-2009-018.jpg\" alt=\"Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird\" title=\"Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9219\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Rene unveils the Thanksgiving bird\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To Chef Rene Caceres we owe not only one of the most succulent turkeys I've ever tasted (3 days of brining will do that), but a phenomenal Brussels sprouts recipe that doesn't even lean on a bacon crutch! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The freshness of the sprouts shines in this dish. And the balance of the caramelized sweet onion and acidity of the mustard vinaigrette are the perfect complement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naysayers, this may be your turning point. Just give it a try, and let me know if you don't find yourself popping these into your mouth like truffles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brussels Sprouts with Red Onions in a Mustard Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from Rene Caceres\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 lb. Brussels sprouts\u003cbr>\n1 small red onion\u003cbr>\n2 oz. whole grain mustard vinaigrette\u003cbr>\n½ oz. olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For the vinaigrette:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 cup whole grain mustard\u003cbr>\n½ cup white balsamic vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tCook the Brussels sprouts in boiling water for about 15 to 20 minutes. Let them cool and cut them in half.\u003cbr>\n2.\tThinly slice the red onion and reserve.\u003cbr>\n3.\tMake the vinaigrette by combining the mustard with the vinegar. Whisk the oil slowly into the mixture and add the salt and sugar.\u003cbr>\n4.\tSauté the red onion first for about one minute. Then add the Brussels sprouts face down. Cook until they get nice and caramelized. Turn them and add the vinaigrette. Toss them together and let them cook for about 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>******************\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Ponzu Fried Garlic, Guanciale, and Bonito Flakes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe adapted from Dennis Lee, Namu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 lb. Brussels sprouts\u003cbr>\n¼ lb. guanciale\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon fried garlic\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Note: You can mince and fry this yourself on the stove in a pan with enough oil (neutral oil, i.e. rice, canola, grapeseed) to coat the garlic. Fry over low heat until the garlic starts to brown, remove with metal screen strainer (it will continue to brown) and place on paper towel and spread to cool with a spoon or chopsticks. Otherwise they sell wonderful fried garlic in Asian markets in a jar.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n4 oz. ponzu\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Note: This can also be bought in an Asian grocer. If you want to make your own, its 2 parts dashi stock, 1 part soy, 1 part rice vinegar and citrus juice to taste (Meyer Lemon juice or Yuzu juice works great).\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n4 oz. soy dashi\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Note: Comprised of bonito, konbu, and soy water; or instant dashi or tsuyu (liquid dashi concentrate) are sold in Asian grocers.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon butter\u003cbr>\nExtra virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nShichimi or Togarashi spice\u003cbr>\nBonito flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For the Brussels Sprouts:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1. Quarter the heads or globes so the roots stay intact, keeping the leaves together.\u003cbr>\n2. Blanch the Brussels sprouts. Always blanch in a large pot (large enough that it won't stop boiling when you drop the sprouts into it) of water with a healthy dose of salt (2-3 tablespoons). While waiting for the water to boil, prepare an ice bath. Boil the sprouts until they turn bright green, then immediately shock them in the ice bath. This can be done up to a day in advance and the sprouts can be stored, in the refrigerator covered.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nFor the Guanciale:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1. Cut the guanciale into about ½ inch cubes (remember it will slightly shrink when it cooks).\u003cbr>\n2. Boil the guanciale in a pot with the water at about 1 ½ inches above the meat. Bring it to a boil and simmer until soft. Much of the fat will render, but the flavor will remain rich. Drain and discard the liquid. This can also be done in advance and stored in a refrigerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Brussels sprouts can either be roasted or pan fried.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Method 1: Roasting\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nRoast the sprouts and guanciale in the oven at 375 degrees F until golden brown with enough olive oil to coat, making sure to stir it every 5 minutes or so to get an even color. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Method 2: Pan Frying (Recommended)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1. Put 1 tablespoon of butter in a pan coated with extra virgin olive oil. When the butter melts, add the guanciale and Brussels sprouts. Put the pan on high and stir fry the ingredients. You want to get a nice brown color on the leaves of the sprouts, with some crispiness. The guanciale will also crisp up a little on the surface like bacon.\u003cbr>\n2. Once everything is nicely browned, add ponzu and soy dashi. Be careful as the pan will be very hot and will sizzle when you add the wet ingredients.\u003cbr>\n3. Let this reduce to the desired flavor, making sure to regularly toss the sprouts.\u003cbr>\n4. Top with shichimi, fried garlic and bonito flakes. The flakes will dance with joy.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "'Burb Burps: Shokolaat",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatlobster.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8914\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Lobster Salad Sandwich. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing you see when you walk into this self-described modern bistro are the sparkling cases stuffed with rich piles of handmade chocolates and pastries. That decadent display alone would be enough to draw one back to Shokolaat, but I was after quite another attraction: a meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been to Shokolaat only for lunch (truth be told, I find their lunch menu far more interesting than their dinner offerings) and I have yet to be disappointed. Last spring, I had a mushroom soup drizzled with mint oil that was incredibly satisfying without being overly rich. That soup was good, very good, wonderfully good, but the salad I paired with it was great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's was nothing particularly interesting about the salad in question -- if I recall correctly, it was just greens and herbs -- but the greens were fresh and springy and the vinaigrette was neither too heavy nor too sweet. Fresh salad greens seem so simple, but I've met way too many salads that are ruined by limp lettuces and bad vinaigrette and, for me, there's nothing so disappointing as a bad salad. It's surprising how many restaurants can get it wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But oy, that meatloaf sandwich! I'm a meatloaf lover. I love it hot and fresh with a steaming baked potato that has the perfect salt: butter: sour cream: minced scallion ratio. I love it cold the next morning, noon, or night. However, until Shokolaat showed me the way, I never loved it on a sandwich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served open-faced on two pieces of hearty bread coated with thin slices of oven-melted cheese, the spicy meat mixture has a tender, succulent crumb, full of flavor and comfort. \u003ci>Sigh.\u003c/i> I get a big silly smile on my face just thinking about it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and a word on that cheese addition, because of course I have decided cheese opinions. I don't add cheese to the meatloaf sandwiches I now make at home, but Shokolaat's sandwich has just the right amount to give flavor and texture but not so much that it puts this fairly elegant sandwich in grinder territory. I loathe it when cheese takes over any dish except fondue, but Shokolaat strikes the perfect balance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, I found out that the meatloaf sandwich rotates out with other sandwiches they like to offer. \"We have a really good hamburger right now!\" the Shokolaat guy insisted when I called to ask about the meatloaf sandwich. Hey, I'll try it, but there are bunches of places in Palo Alto and Menlo Park to get good hamburgers. The same can hardly be said of an awesome meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatpizza.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8916\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Pizzetta. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other highlights I discovered are two tasty pizzettas with pretty good crusts, macaroni and cheese topped with brioche crumbs and served in an impossibly adorable, personal-sized Le Creuset Dutch oven, and a lobster salad sandwich with avocado and Meyer lemon vinaigrette on a fresh, buttery croissant. The menu calls the lobster sandwich the \"Neighborhood Favorite\" and notes that they tried to take this particular item off but people, like, rioted or something, so they learned their lesson and there it stays. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe I need to start a riot to bring the meatloaf sandwich back sooner...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shokolaat.com/\">Shokolaat\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n516 University Ave (at Cowper)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n650.289.0719\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nBrunch:\tSaturday-Sunday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nDinner:\tMonday-Saturday 5:30pm-9:00pm; Sunday 5:30pm-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The first thing you see when you walk into this self-described modern bistro are the sparkling cases stuffed with rich piles of handmade chocolates and pastries. That decadent display alone would be enough to draw one back to Shokolaat, but I was after quite another attraction: a meatloaf sandwich.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatlobster.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Lobster Sandwich- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8914\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Lobster Salad Sandwich. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first thing you see when you walk into this self-described modern bistro are the sparkling cases stuffed with rich piles of handmade chocolates and pastries. That decadent display alone would be enough to draw one back to Shokolaat, but I was after quite another attraction: a meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been to Shokolaat only for lunch (truth be told, I find their lunch menu far more interesting than their dinner offerings) and I have yet to be disappointed. Last spring, I had a mushroom soup drizzled with mint oil that was incredibly satisfying without being overly rich. That soup was good, very good, wonderfully good, but the salad I paired with it was great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's was nothing particularly interesting about the salad in question -- if I recall correctly, it was just greens and herbs -- but the greens were fresh and springy and the vinaigrette was neither too heavy nor too sweet. Fresh salad greens seem so simple, but I've met way too many salads that are ruined by limp lettuces and bad vinaigrette and, for me, there's nothing so disappointing as a bad salad. It's surprising how many restaurants can get it wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But oy, that meatloaf sandwich! I'm a meatloaf lover. I love it hot and fresh with a steaming baked potato that has the perfect salt: butter: sour cream: minced scallion ratio. I love it cold the next morning, noon, or night. However, until Shokolaat showed me the way, I never loved it on a sandwich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Served open-faced on two pieces of hearty bread coated with thin slices of oven-melted cheese, the spicy meat mixture has a tender, succulent crumb, full of flavor and comfort. \u003ci>Sigh.\u003c/i> I get a big silly smile on my face just thinking about it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and a word on that cheese addition, because of course I have decided cheese opinions. I don't add cheese to the meatloaf sandwiches I now make at home, but Shokolaat's sandwich has just the right amount to give flavor and texture but not so much that it puts this fairly elegant sandwich in grinder territory. I loathe it when cheese takes over any dish except fondue, but Shokolaat strikes the perfect balance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, I found out that the meatloaf sandwich rotates out with other sandwiches they like to offer. \"We have a really good hamburger right now!\" the Shokolaat guy insisted when I called to ask about the meatloaf sandwich. Hey, I'll try it, but there are bunches of places in Palo Alto and Menlo Park to get good hamburgers. The same can hardly be said of an awesome meatloaf sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/shokolaatpizza.jpg\" alt=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" title=\"Shokolaat Pizzetta- Photo courtesy Kitchen Gadget Girl\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8916\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Shokolaat Pizzetta. Photo courtesy \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchengadgetgirl.com/\">Kitchen Gadget Girl\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other highlights I discovered are two tasty pizzettas with pretty good crusts, macaroni and cheese topped with brioche crumbs and served in an impossibly adorable, personal-sized Le Creuset Dutch oven, and a lobster salad sandwich with avocado and Meyer lemon vinaigrette on a fresh, buttery croissant. The menu calls the lobster sandwich the \"Neighborhood Favorite\" and notes that they tried to take this particular item off but people, like, rioted or something, so they learned their lesson and there it stays. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe I need to start a riot to bring the meatloaf sandwich back sooner...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.shokolaat.com/\">Shokolaat\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n516 University Ave (at Cowper)\u003cbr>\nPalo Alto, CA 94301\u003cbr>\n650.289.0719\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nLunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nBrunch:\tSaturday-Sunday 11:30am-2:00pm\u003cbr>\nDinner:\tMonday-Saturday 5:30pm-9:00pm; Sunday 5:30pm-8:30pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/shingwong/4157066180/in/set-72157622805552011/\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8733\" title=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/cc-panel1.jpg\" alt=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" width=\"499\" height=\"330\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Commonwealth Club: The State of Pastry in SF INFORUM panel. Photo by Shing Wong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may be hard to believe, but there was a time—call it the 1990s—when people, even suave city folk like yourself, did not want salt in their caramels or bacon in their chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, what did the fancy folk want? Having spent most of that decade as a restaurant critic, I can tell you: they wanted crème brûlée. Ginger crème brûlée. Lavender crème brûlée, introduced at Absinthe by then-pastry chef Clare Legas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then molten chocolate cake slipped in. First simply warm and a little gooey inside, it morphed slowly into a volcano of bubbling chocolate lava held back by only the thinnests of crusts. Near the end of the decade, the endless forward march of glassy-topped custards was briefly interrupted by a wiggle of panna cottas. (Surely, at Delfina, some bill is paid purely by sales of their buttermilk panna cotta, a dessert that's never been off the menu in ten years.) There were flirtations with Asian flavors, a little green tea there, a spark of yuzu here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, of course, you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-bacon-gingerbread cupcake. Salt and bacon seem here to stay, as does anything cute and bite-sized. Olive oil ice cream (or olive oil \u003cem>over\u003c/em> ice cream), curry sabayons, a creeping hint of soy and balsamic vinegar: savory has colonized our sweet, and that's the way we like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was the takeaway from last Tuesday's \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/INFORUM/about.html\">INFORUM\u003c/a> panel at the \u003ca href=\"http://tickets.commonwealthclub.org/\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a>, where four of the city's most innovative pastry chefs gathered to discuss \u003cstrong>The State of Pastry in SF\u003c/strong>. On the panel were Luis Villavelasquez (\u003ca href=\"http://www.absinthe.com/\">Absinthe\u003c/a>), William Werner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.quincerestaurant.com\">Quince\u003c/a>), Elizabeth Falkner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.orsonsf.com\">Orson\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a>), and Bill Corbett, recently of \u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelmina.net\">Michael Mina\u003c/a>. The questions tossed out by moderator Jessica Battalina, associate food editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com\">7x7\u003c/a>, were marshmallow-soft, but some interesting tidbits did arise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On NYC vs. SF Pastry Styles:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Corbett:\u003c/em> I spent 5 years cooking in New York before I came to California. New York chefs can't rely on getting really excellent produce all the time, so it forces their creativity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(True: Would Momofuku's Christina Tosi be so obsessed with \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/52411/\">cereal milk\u003c/a> if she had Betty Van Dyke's apricots in her backyard?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Here, we don't have time to screw around with stuff that's only going to be here for a couple of weeks, like elephant-heart plums or Indian red peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Wooing Diners to Weirdness:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> It helps to put it into a recognizable form. If I want to use beets, for example, I might use them in a red velvet cake, because everyone knows what that is.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> In Japan, they use a lot of Okinawa blue potatoes, which are not well know here. But we do have sweet potato pie, so you could use them in something like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as artists as well as artisans, these chefs would love to play to an audience eager and willing for innovation. But then again, restaurants are businesses, and change comes at a price. Unfamiliar flavors tend to sneak via the fine print. At Quince, Werner gives his pear tart a bump with a side of rosemary ice cream. At Absinthe, the earthy sweetness of a carrot reduction plays off the mellow spice of a pumpkin custard, while at Orson, creole cream cheese and Tabasco gives a kick in the shins to sticky toffee pudding. Sometimes, though, two great tastes don't go great together. . .\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Epic Fails?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> When I started at Michael Mina, I had lofty intentions—I was going to be the one to show customers how to break out. I did this chocolate plate that had a basil s'more, a tahini chocolate mousse. . . all that was fine until I put in this perfect cube of devil's food cake with black olives. Now, I love chocolate and olives, I think they go really well together. But I realized that when people saw what they thought was a piece of devil's food cake, they expected one thing. So, you can't make an unfamiliar thing look too familiar.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Anchovy croissants. It was a humbling experience.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Trying to transport an elaborate wedding cake on a hot summer day in the backseat of an old Pinto with no A/C. I got to the Sherman House with the cake melted all over me, and they just looked at me, like, 'What kind of punk-ass are you'?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Current Obsessions?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Hydrocolloids! That's what I say to everyone these days. I feel like that guy in \u003cem>The Graduate\u003c/em>, telling Dustin Hoffman to get into plastics.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Persimmons, because I don't really like them. I'm forcing myself to use them and see what I can do.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Squash. It's a very autumnal ingredient. You can put it in cake, foams, all kinds of things.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Coconut, bourbon, persimmons. I ask my chefs to think about how the season tastes. I'm also very into garam masala right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classic and Perfect, or Provocative but Flawed?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGiven the chance to enjoy a perfectly made, perfectly simple pear tart, or to taste a more experimental dish that didn't quite work, which would they pick?\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Pastry chefs don't eat dessert! Steak or a pizza, that's you want at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What about you, Werner? Do you order dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Not unless the pastry chef sees me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only Villavelasquez admitted to dessert splurges, saving up to eat nothing but desserts—sometimes 4 or 5 in a sitting—at restaurants that intrigue him here or abroad. But all agreed that as creative artists interested in pushing, pulling and poking at the concept of the sweet course, they'd go for the flawed experiment every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> In a classic dessert, there's no tricks, nothing to hide. But for me right now the most exciting desserts are the ones that the most innovative and new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Inspirations?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Song titles or lyrics. We've got a dessert now called \"Mesh and Lace.\" Sometimes the title comes first, like \"Burning Down the House\": you think, what would that be? Sometimes it's based on a gesture, something sculptural or conceptual, or wanting to create a texture that doesn't exist yet.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Asian and Japanese flavors and ingredients. There are a lot of innovative textures, ingredients, and spices that are unfamiliar here. Also, just putting 3 flavors out there and making them work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, What's the Next Bacon?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Porcini syrup.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Deeper salts. Olives.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Soy and miso.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> I had a jasmine cupcake somewhere, and that led to a scone we're doing at Arlequin, with quince, jasmine, and earl grey tea. I'm thinking like a bartender these days, thinking about using floral syrups and waters like jasmine, violet, orange blossom. Lavender's used up. But in the end, it comes down to butter all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slideshow of State of Pastry in SF event: Photos by Shing Wong\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Now that you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-gingerbread-bacon cupcake, what's the future of dessert? Four of the city's most innovative confectionaries got together last week to discuss the current State of Pastry in SF. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/shingwong/4157066180/in/set-72157622805552011/\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8733\" title=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/cc-panel1.jpg\" alt=\"Commonwealth Club panel\" width=\"499\" height=\"330\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Commonwealth Club: The State of Pastry in SF INFORUM panel. Photo by Shing Wong.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may be hard to believe, but there was a time—call it the 1990s—when people, even suave city folk like yourself, did not want salt in their caramels or bacon in their chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, what did the fancy folk want? Having spent most of that decade as a restaurant critic, I can tell you: they wanted crème brûlée. Ginger crème brûlée. Lavender crème brûlée, introduced at Absinthe by then-pastry chef Clare Legas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then molten chocolate cake slipped in. First simply warm and a little gooey inside, it morphed slowly into a volcano of bubbling chocolate lava held back by only the thinnests of crusts. Near the end of the decade, the endless forward march of glassy-topped custards was briefly interrupted by a wiggle of panna cottas. (Surely, at Delfina, some bill is paid purely by sales of their buttermilk panna cotta, a dessert that's never been off the menu in ten years.) There were flirtations with Asian flavors, a little green tea there, a spark of yuzu here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, of course, you can't swing a puggle in this town without landing it face-first in someone's salted-caramel-bacon-gingerbread cupcake. Salt and bacon seem here to stay, as does anything cute and bite-sized. Olive oil ice cream (or olive oil \u003cem>over\u003c/em> ice cream), curry sabayons, a creeping hint of soy and balsamic vinegar: savory has colonized our sweet, and that's the way we like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was the takeaway from last Tuesday's \u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthclub.org/INFORUM/about.html\">INFORUM\u003c/a> panel at the \u003ca href=\"http://tickets.commonwealthclub.org/\">Commonwealth Club\u003c/a>, where four of the city's most innovative pastry chefs gathered to discuss \u003cstrong>The State of Pastry in SF\u003c/strong>. On the panel were Luis Villavelasquez (\u003ca href=\"http://www.absinthe.com/\">Absinthe\u003c/a>), William Werner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.quincerestaurant.com\">Quince\u003c/a>), Elizabeth Falkner (\u003ca href=\"http://www.orsonsf.com\">Orson\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.citizencake.com\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a>), and Bill Corbett, recently of \u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelmina.net\">Michael Mina\u003c/a>. The questions tossed out by moderator Jessica Battalina, associate food editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com\">7x7\u003c/a>, were marshmallow-soft, but some interesting tidbits did arise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On NYC vs. SF Pastry Styles:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Corbett:\u003c/em> I spent 5 years cooking in New York before I came to California. New York chefs can't rely on getting really excellent produce all the time, so it forces their creativity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(True: Would Momofuku's Christina Tosi be so obsessed with \u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/52411/\">cereal milk\u003c/a> if she had Betty Van Dyke's apricots in her backyard?)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Here, we don't have time to screw around with stuff that's only going to be here for a couple of weeks, like elephant-heart plums or Indian red peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Wooing Diners to Weirdness:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> It helps to put it into a recognizable form. If I want to use beets, for example, I might use them in a red velvet cake, because everyone knows what that is.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> In Japan, they use a lot of Okinawa blue potatoes, which are not well know here. But we do have sweet potato pie, so you could use them in something like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, as artists as well as artisans, these chefs would love to play to an audience eager and willing for innovation. But then again, restaurants are businesses, and change comes at a price. Unfamiliar flavors tend to sneak via the fine print. At Quince, Werner gives his pear tart a bump with a side of rosemary ice cream. At Absinthe, the earthy sweetness of a carrot reduction plays off the mellow spice of a pumpkin custard, while at Orson, creole cream cheese and Tabasco gives a kick in the shins to sticky toffee pudding. Sometimes, though, two great tastes don't go great together. . .\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Epic Fails?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> When I started at Michael Mina, I had lofty intentions—I was going to be the one to show customers how to break out. I did this chocolate plate that had a basil s'more, a tahini chocolate mousse. . . all that was fine until I put in this perfect cube of devil's food cake with black olives. Now, I love chocolate and olives, I think they go really well together. But I realized that when people saw what they thought was a piece of devil's food cake, they expected one thing. So, you can't make an unfamiliar thing look too familiar.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Anchovy croissants. It was a humbling experience.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Trying to transport an elaborate wedding cake on a hot summer day in the backseat of an old Pinto with no A/C. I got to the Sherman House with the cake melted all over me, and they just looked at me, like, 'What kind of punk-ass are you'?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Current Obsessions?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Hydrocolloids! That's what I say to everyone these days. I feel like that guy in \u003cem>The Graduate\u003c/em>, telling Dustin Hoffman to get into plastics.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Persimmons, because I don't really like them. I'm forcing myself to use them and see what I can do.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Squash. It's a very autumnal ingredient. You can put it in cake, foams, all kinds of things.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Coconut, bourbon, persimmons. I ask my chefs to think about how the season tastes. I'm also very into garam masala right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Classic and Perfect, or Provocative but Flawed?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGiven the chance to enjoy a perfectly made, perfectly simple pear tart, or to taste a more experimental dish that didn't quite work, which would they pick?\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Pastry chefs don't eat dessert! Steak or a pizza, that's you want at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What about you, Werner? Do you order dessert?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Not unless the pastry chef sees me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only Villavelasquez admitted to dessert splurges, saving up to eat nothing but desserts—sometimes 4 or 5 in a sitting—at restaurants that intrigue him here or abroad. But all agreed that as creative artists interested in pushing, pulling and poking at the concept of the sweet course, they'd go for the flawed experiment every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> In a classic dessert, there's no tricks, nothing to hide. But for me right now the most exciting desserts are the ones that the most innovative and new.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Inspirations?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Song titles or lyrics. We've got a dessert now called \"Mesh and Lace.\" Sometimes the title comes first, like \"Burning Down the House\": you think, what would that be? Sometimes it's based on a gesture, something sculptural or conceptual, or wanting to create a texture that doesn't exist yet.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> Asian and Japanese flavors and ingredients. There are a lot of innovative textures, ingredients, and spices that are unfamiliar here. Also, just putting 3 flavors out there and making them work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So, What's the Next Bacon?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Corbett:\u003c/em> Porcini syrup.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Falkner:\u003c/em> Deeper salts. Olives.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Werner:\u003c/em> Soy and miso.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Villavelasquez:\u003c/em> I had a jasmine cupcake somewhere, and that led to a scone we're doing at Arlequin, with quince, jasmine, and earl grey tea. I'm thinking like a bartender these days, thinking about using floral syrups and waters like jasmine, violet, orange blossom. Lavender's used up. But in the end, it comes down to butter all the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Slideshow of State of Pastry in SF event: Photos by Shing Wong\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Elsieberry Pudding",
"title": "Elsieberry Pudding",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-8692\" title=\"Elsieberry King\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/7826_1223868687481_1551911052_30615028_4611742_n-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"Elsieberry King\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\">I have always had this thing for Southern people. I don't know exactly what it is about them, but I tend to collect them much in the same way I collect Canadians and Edward Gorey first editions. Maybe it was my obsession with \u003cem>Gone with The Wind\u003c/em> at age nine, or maybe it was the fact that, at the age of five, I insisted I was a Southerner because I was from Southern California and could argue that Anaheim was at approximately the same latitude as Atlanta, Georgia.. There are lots of reasons, really, but none of them are really very important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lady-- and I do mean \u003cem>lady\u003c/em>-- in the above photograph was very, very Southern. Her name was Elsieberry King. Elsieberry-- you just can't get more Southern than that. She was the best friend of my best friend's mother in Greensboro, North Carolina. In some circles, that makes us practically related. Sadly, I never got to meet her, but my friend mentions her from time to time and has nothing but fond memories of this woman and, because of him, I have them too, even though mine are entirely made up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know very little about her apart from her fondness for her \"\u003cem>wickuh\u003c/em>, \u003cem>silvuh\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>pewtuh\u003c/em>.\" And her penchant for making banana pudding. My friend Jay's family, the Floyds, and the Kings rented a beach house together every summer. And every summer, there would be an enormous batch of banana pudding, made by Mrs. King, sitting on the kitchen counter to greet Jay and his sisters. And that tradition never changed. In later years, no matter what troubles my friend was facing in his life, if he walked into that beach house and saw a big dish of banana pudding sitting on that counter, he somehow knew that everything was going to be just fine. Pudding has that sort of power, apparently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banana pudding is something relatively new to me-- a gaping hole in my Southern repertoire. I've mastered fried chicken, I make killer greens and lickuh, and getting better at biscuits every day. But I've never tackled banana pudding until recently, when Jay sent shot me an email that included Elsieberry's famous recipe, which her husband found stuck in an old book, passed it along to his daughter, who then sent it to Jay, who sent it to me, who was going to send it to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I read the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though hand written, it is-- almost word for word-- the recipe from the back of a Nabisco Nilla Wafers box. I don't understand why I was expecting some else, like India ink on lilac-scented vellum, but I was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't matter one bit that her \"famous\" banana pudding came from the back of a box-- somewhere along the way, she made it her own. To her family and friends, banana pudding might never be the same unless Elsieberry King made it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Mrs. King is gone and I will never have the good fortune to meet her, she has inspired me to make my own banana pudding. It part me, it's part Elsieberry, and it's part back-of-the-box. I'm naming it after her, to give it a nice Southern touch. Though it's being made by a California boy who has only ventured south of the Mason-Dixon line twice in his life, it doesn't matter, damn it. I'm Southern enough when I want to be. Besides, I've learned a little something from my Southern friends, who have since left their homes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being Southern isn't necessarily about latitude-- it's about attitude.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So do yourself or your husband a \u003cem>fayvuh\u003c/em> and make yourself a little Elsieberry Pudding this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8694\" title=\"Elsieberry Pudding\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Elsieberry-Pudding-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"Elsieberry Pudding\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Elsieberry Pudding\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serve Four to Six\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are essentially two kinds of banana puddings: those topped with meringue and baked, and those that are topped with whipped cream and refrigerated. The meringue version (which was Elsieberry's preference) is delicious, but it doesn't lend itself well to delightful, individual servings. I've gone the whipped cream, no-bake route, and with much success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have made two changes-- nothing earth-shattering, mind you-- to the traditional recipe: I decided to make a slightly butterscotchy custard, and I have added an extra bit of banana purée (mush, really) to the center to punch up the banana flavor. Give it a go, if you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a truly simple dessert to master. And one of the best things about it is that, the longer you let it set about and let the ingredients get downright neighborly, the better it gets. Banana pudding on Day One is delicious. Banana pudding on Day Two is fantastic. I've never had the patience to let it linger into Day Three, so I really couldn't tell you what it's like then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup white sugar divided into two 1/4 cups\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus three tablespoons dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 medium-ripe yellow bananas sliced into 1/2 inch slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One box of Nilla Wafers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy whipping cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add brown sugar and blend. When the mixture begins to bubble slightly, add three of your sliced bananas. Coat bananas in the butter and brown sugar and cook well-- until the bananas begin to fall apart. Transfer to bowl. Don't bother to purée, just mash them with a fork and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Combine egg yolks and milk in the top of a double boiler. Whisk until thoroughly blended. Add 1/4 cup of your white sugar, the flour, and a heavy pinch of salt. Whisk over medium heat (and water, naturally-- don't forget to put water in the bottom pan of your double boiler) until well mixed. Now, using a wooden spoon, stir the soon-to-be custard until it heats and becomes, well, custard-like. About 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the top pan (or bowl) and cool it's bottom in an ice bath. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Layer the bottom (or bottoms, if you are serving in individual bowls) of your serving dish with wafers and create one ring of wafers facing the outside of your bowl to make the cookies look as though they are desperately trying to escape their fate of being suffocated by custard. Add a generous dollop (you're creating a layer that doesn't quite go all the way to the edge) of the mashed brown sugar banana. Cover with a layer of custard. Now roughly crumble enough wafers to create a crunchy layer, ringing the outside with slices of fresh banana to mimic the panic of their cookie brethren below. dot the top of the crushed wafers with more banana, then cover with custard. Repeat process until you have reached the top of your dish, but be certain to always finish with custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Refrigerate overnight, ideally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. When ready to serve, whip your cream (adding the second 1/4 cup of white sugar and maybe a dash of vanilla) until it keeps a soft peak, dollop a bit over each serving crumble a bit of wafer over the top(s) and add sliced fresh banana on top to warn of anyone unfortunate enough to suffer from banana allergies. One must think of such things, you know.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I have always had this thing for Southern people. I don't know exactly what it is about them, but I tend to collect them much in the same way I collect Canadians and Edward Gorey first editions. Maybe it was my obsession with Gone with The Wind at age nine, or maybe it was the fact that, at the age of five, I insisted I was a Southerner because I was from Southern California and could argue that Anaheim was at approximately the same latitude as Atlanta, Georgia.. There are lots of reasons, really, but none of them are really very important.\r\n",
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"description": "I have always had this thing for Southern people. I don't know exactly what it is about them, but I tend to collect them much in the same way I collect Canadians and Edward Gorey first editions. Maybe it was my obsession with Gone with The Wind at age nine, or maybe it was the fact that, at the age of five, I insisted I was a Southerner because I was from Southern California and could argue that Anaheim was at approximately the same latitude as Atlanta, Georgia.. There are lots of reasons, really, but none of them are really very important.\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-8692\" title=\"Elsieberry King\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/7826_1223868687481_1551911052_30615028_4611742_n-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"Elsieberry King\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\">I have always had this thing for Southern people. I don't know exactly what it is about them, but I tend to collect them much in the same way I collect Canadians and Edward Gorey first editions. Maybe it was my obsession with \u003cem>Gone with The Wind\u003c/em> at age nine, or maybe it was the fact that, at the age of five, I insisted I was a Southerner because I was from Southern California and could argue that Anaheim was at approximately the same latitude as Atlanta, Georgia.. There are lots of reasons, really, but none of them are really very important.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lady-- and I do mean \u003cem>lady\u003c/em>-- in the above photograph was very, very Southern. Her name was Elsieberry King. Elsieberry-- you just can't get more Southern than that. She was the best friend of my best friend's mother in Greensboro, North Carolina. In some circles, that makes us practically related. Sadly, I never got to meet her, but my friend mentions her from time to time and has nothing but fond memories of this woman and, because of him, I have them too, even though mine are entirely made up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I know very little about her apart from her fondness for her \"\u003cem>wickuh\u003c/em>, \u003cem>silvuh\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>pewtuh\u003c/em>.\" And her penchant for making banana pudding. My friend Jay's family, the Floyds, and the Kings rented a beach house together every summer. And every summer, there would be an enormous batch of banana pudding, made by Mrs. King, sitting on the kitchen counter to greet Jay and his sisters. And that tradition never changed. In later years, no matter what troubles my friend was facing in his life, if he walked into that beach house and saw a big dish of banana pudding sitting on that counter, he somehow knew that everything was going to be just fine. Pudding has that sort of power, apparently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Banana pudding is something relatively new to me-- a gaping hole in my Southern repertoire. I've mastered fried chicken, I make killer greens and lickuh, and getting better at biscuits every day. But I've never tackled banana pudding until recently, when Jay sent shot me an email that included Elsieberry's famous recipe, which her husband found stuck in an old book, passed it along to his daughter, who then sent it to Jay, who sent it to me, who was going to send it to you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I read the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though hand written, it is-- almost word for word-- the recipe from the back of a Nabisco Nilla Wafers box. I don't understand why I was expecting some else, like India ink on lilac-scented vellum, but I was.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It doesn't matter one bit that her \"famous\" banana pudding came from the back of a box-- somewhere along the way, she made it her own. To her family and friends, banana pudding might never be the same unless Elsieberry King made it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Mrs. King is gone and I will never have the good fortune to meet her, she has inspired me to make my own banana pudding. It part me, it's part Elsieberry, and it's part back-of-the-box. I'm naming it after her, to give it a nice Southern touch. Though it's being made by a California boy who has only ventured south of the Mason-Dixon line twice in his life, it doesn't matter, damn it. I'm Southern enough when I want to be. Besides, I've learned a little something from my Southern friends, who have since left their homes:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being Southern isn't necessarily about latitude-- it's about attitude.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So do yourself or your husband a \u003cem>fayvuh\u003c/em> and make yourself a little Elsieberry Pudding this weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8694\" title=\"Elsieberry Pudding\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/Elsieberry-Pudding-199x300.jpg\" alt=\"Elsieberry Pudding\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Elsieberry Pudding\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serve Four to Six\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are essentially two kinds of banana puddings: those topped with meringue and baked, and those that are topped with whipped cream and refrigerated. The meringue version (which was Elsieberry's preference) is delicious, but it doesn't lend itself well to delightful, individual servings. I've gone the whipped cream, no-bake route, and with much success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have made two changes-- nothing earth-shattering, mind you-- to the traditional recipe: I decided to make a slightly butterscotchy custard, and I have added an extra bit of banana purée (mush, really) to the center to punch up the banana flavor. Give it a go, if you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a truly simple dessert to master. And one of the best things about it is that, the longer you let it set about and let the ingredients get downright neighborly, the better it gets. Banana pudding on Day One is delicious. Banana pudding on Day Two is fantastic. I've never had the patience to let it linger into Day Three, so I really couldn't tell you what it's like then.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup white sugar divided into two 1/4 cups\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus three tablespoons dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 medium-ripe yellow bananas sliced into 1/2 inch slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One box of Nilla Wafers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy whipping cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add brown sugar and blend. When the mixture begins to bubble slightly, add three of your sliced bananas. Coat bananas in the butter and brown sugar and cook well-- until the bananas begin to fall apart. Transfer to bowl. Don't bother to purée, just mash them with a fork and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Combine egg yolks and milk in the top of a double boiler. Whisk until thoroughly blended. Add 1/4 cup of your white sugar, the flour, and a heavy pinch of salt. Whisk over medium heat (and water, naturally-- don't forget to put water in the bottom pan of your double boiler) until well mixed. Now, using a wooden spoon, stir the soon-to-be custard until it heats and becomes, well, custard-like. About 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the top pan (or bowl) and cool it's bottom in an ice bath. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Layer the bottom (or bottoms, if you are serving in individual bowls) of your serving dish with wafers and create one ring of wafers facing the outside of your bowl to make the cookies look as though they are desperately trying to escape their fate of being suffocated by custard. Add a generous dollop (you're creating a layer that doesn't quite go all the way to the edge) of the mashed brown sugar banana. Cover with a layer of custard. Now roughly crumble enough wafers to create a crunchy layer, ringing the outside with slices of fresh banana to mimic the panic of their cookie brethren below. dot the top of the crushed wafers with more banana, then cover with custard. Repeat process until you have reached the top of your dish, but be certain to always finish with custard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Refrigerate overnight, ideally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. When ready to serve, whip your cream (adding the second 1/4 cup of white sugar and maybe a dash of vanilla) until it keeps a soft peak, dollop a bit over each serving crumble a bit of wafer over the top(s) and add sliced fresh banana on top to warn of anyone unfortunate enough to suffer from banana allergies. One must think of such things, you know.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook",
"title": "The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/steamykitchencookbookcover_em.jpg\" alt=\"Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\" title=\"Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\" width=\"200\" height=\"189\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8649\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A girl's gotta eat!\" quips \u003cstrong>Jaden Hair\u003c/strong>, self-taught cook, creator of the popular food blog \u003ca href=\"http://steamykitchen.com/\">Steamy Kitchen\u003c/a>, and most recently, author of \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of sass and practicality that makes Jaden's work so enjoyable and relatable. Her new book is dubbed, \"101 Asian Recipes Simple Enough for Tonight's Dinner\" and features fast, simple, and delicious recipes passed down from her mom and inspired by her fellow food bloggers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first met Jaden at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/28/blogher-food-09/\">BlogHer Food\u003c/a> conference a few months ago, and was struck by her focus, drive, and of course, her sparkling personality. Judging from her expansive multi-media reach (Jaden is workin' it -- not only does she have a blog and book, she also writes a weekly column for the \u003cem>Tampa Tribune\u003c/em> and has a syndicated show on \u003cem>Tampa Bay's CBS10\u003c/em>), it's hard to believe that she's only been at this whole food thing for 2 ½ years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Other than feeling a little bad about myself) I find inspiration in her hustle. It was a pleasure chatting with Jaden, and I found myself nodding and smiling as her enthusiasm flowed through the phone line. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until she moved away from California to a suburb of Tampa, devoid of good Asian markets and her mother's home cooking, that Jaden learned to cook. She earned her culinary degree via a $448.63 cell phone bill, and when I read her dedication on the front page of her book (\"To my Mom, who spent thousands of hours reciting family recipe over the phone...and to my Dad, who patiently translated when our Chinglish didn't suffice.\"), I was reminded of my own inadequate Chinglish...and all the times I called my own mom from the grocery store, or begged her to just \u003cem>estimate\u003c/em> how much soy sauce/rice vinegar/black bean sauce she used in a dish so I could piece together some semblance of a recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Steamy Kitchen\u003c/strong> honors the passing down of recipes from generation to generation, from friend to friend, and recognizes that in doing so, it becomes more than just a recipe, but a tangible expression of family and community. I love that. I also love that the cookbook lends a real-life perspective on learning how to take what you have available and adapt it to your family meal. And, I love that this is a \"homegrown\" cookbook, written, styled, and photographed by Jaden herself. (True fact, the photos where you see her hands preparing a dish were taken by her 4-year-old son via tripod, wireless remote clicker, and chocolate bribe.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below is a recipe for \u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>, straight from \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. It is a recipe that has become a regular at Jaden's dinner parties, and she warns, they rarely make it to the table because guests stand in the kitchen snagging them as they cool on the rack. The recipe is originally from \u003cstrong>Rice and Noodles\u003c/strong> by \u003cstrong>Mae Gabriel\u003c/strong>, a blog that inspired Jaden to take food photography seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good indication of the other dishes in The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook, these Firecracker Shrimp are enticing and accessible. And, I'm fairly certain they won't be making it past the cooling rack at my next party either. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" title=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8647\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Firecracker Shrimp, Photo by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6 as appetizer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cornstarch or flour\u003cbr>\n¼ cup water\u003cbr>\n24 medium tail-on shrimp, shelled (leave tails on) and deveined\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 cup sweet chilli sauce, divided \u003cem>*Recommended brands: Mae Ploy and Lingham (thicker, spicier and less sweet than Mae Ploy)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n12 eggroll or fresh spring roll wrappers, cut in half diagonally and covered with plastic wrap or a damp cloth\u003cbr>\nHigh-heat cooking oil for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tIn a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with the water to make a slurry.\u003cbr>\n2)\tLay the shrimp flat on a cutting board and using a sharp paring knife, cut a few nicks on the inside curve of the shrimp. Be careful not to cut through the shrimp. Pat the shrimp very dry.\u003cbr>\n3)\tSeason the shrimp with the salt and pepper. Pour ¼ cup of the sweet chilli sauce on a small plate. Hold the shrimp by its tail and dip both sides of the shrimp in the sweet chilli sauce. Avoid getting the tails wet (if the tail of the shrimp is wet with marinade, it will splatter in the hot oil). Let the shrimp marinade for 10 minutes at room temperature.\u003cbr>\n4)\tUse paper towels to pat the shrimp slightly, to soak up the extra marinade. Some of the sticky sweet chilli sauce should still be on the shrimp.\u003cbr>\n5)\tRoll the shrimp in the halved wrappers, following the instructions below.\u003cbr>\n6)\tIn a wok, deep fryer or large sauté pan, add 1 ½ inches of oil and heat it to 375 degrees F. Add the firecracker shrimp a few at a time to the oil and fry until golden brown on each side, about 3 minutes. Drain on a baking rack and serve with a side of sweet chilli sauce for dipping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Option: \u003c/em>Add a thin slice of mango with the shrimp with wrapping to make Firecracker Mango Shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-wrapoing.jpg\" alt=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" title=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" width=\"500\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8648\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Step by Step Wrapping\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolling the Shrimp Wrapper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tLay an eggroll or spring roll wrapper on a dry, clean surface as shown. Lay a shrimp with the tail sticking out.\u003cbr>\n2)\tBring the left corner of the wrapper over the shrimp and being rolling left to right. Make sure that you are rolling tightly. As you roll, bring the top corner o the wrapper down and over the shrimp. Again, make sure you leave no open pockets of air. Big air pockets and holes will allow oil to seep in.\u003cbr>\n3)\tContinue rolling towards the right. Dip your finger or a pastry brush into the cornstarch slurry and pain the final corner. Roll to seal. Lay the roll seam side down on a dry plate or tray. Repeat with the rest of the shrimp and wrappers. Keep all uncooked Firecracker Shrimp covered with plastic wrap or barely damp towel.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Take a peek into Jaden Hair's Steamy Kitchen Cookbook and learn to make her irresistible Firecracker Shrimp.",
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"description": "Take a peek into Jaden Hair's Steamy Kitchen Cookbook and learn to make her irresistible Firecracker Shrimp.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/steamykitchencookbookcover_em.jpg\" alt=\"Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\" title=\"Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\" width=\"200\" height=\"189\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8649\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A girl's gotta eat!\" quips \u003cstrong>Jaden Hair\u003c/strong>, self-taught cook, creator of the popular food blog \u003ca href=\"http://steamykitchen.com/\">Steamy Kitchen\u003c/a>, and most recently, author of \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the kind of sass and practicality that makes Jaden's work so enjoyable and relatable. Her new book is dubbed, \"101 Asian Recipes Simple Enough for Tonight's Dinner\" and features fast, simple, and delicious recipes passed down from her mom and inspired by her fellow food bloggers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first met Jaden at the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/28/blogher-food-09/\">BlogHer Food\u003c/a> conference a few months ago, and was struck by her focus, drive, and of course, her sparkling personality. Judging from her expansive multi-media reach (Jaden is workin' it -- not only does she have a blog and book, she also writes a weekly column for the \u003cem>Tampa Tribune\u003c/em> and has a syndicated show on \u003cem>Tampa Bay's CBS10\u003c/em>), it's hard to believe that she's only been at this whole food thing for 2 ½ years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Other than feeling a little bad about myself) I find inspiration in her hustle. It was a pleasure chatting with Jaden, and I found myself nodding and smiling as her enthusiasm flowed through the phone line. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until she moved away from California to a suburb of Tampa, devoid of good Asian markets and her mother's home cooking, that Jaden learned to cook. She earned her culinary degree via a $448.63 cell phone bill, and when I read her dedication on the front page of her book (\"To my Mom, who spent thousands of hours reciting family recipe over the phone...and to my Dad, who patiently translated when our Chinglish didn't suffice.\"), I was reminded of my own inadequate Chinglish...and all the times I called my own mom from the grocery store, or begged her to just \u003cem>estimate\u003c/em> how much soy sauce/rice vinegar/black bean sauce she used in a dish so I could piece together some semblance of a recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Steamy Kitchen\u003c/strong> honors the passing down of recipes from generation to generation, from friend to friend, and recognizes that in doing so, it becomes more than just a recipe, but a tangible expression of family and community. I love that. I also love that the cookbook lends a real-life perspective on learning how to take what you have available and adapt it to your family meal. And, I love that this is a \"homegrown\" cookbook, written, styled, and photographed by Jaden herself. (True fact, the photos where you see her hands preparing a dish were taken by her 4-year-old son via tripod, wireless remote clicker, and chocolate bribe.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Below is a recipe for \u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>, straight from \u003cstrong>The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook\u003c/strong>. It is a recipe that has become a regular at Jaden's dinner parties, and she warns, they rarely make it to the table because guests stand in the kitchen snagging them as they cool on the rack. The recipe is originally from \u003cstrong>Rice and Noodles\u003c/strong> by \u003cstrong>Mae Gabriel\u003c/strong>, a blog that inspired Jaden to take food photography seriously.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good indication of the other dishes in The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook, these Firecracker Shrimp are enticing and accessible. And, I'm fairly certain they won't be making it past the cooling rack at my next party either. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-photo.jpg\" alt=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" title=\"Firecracker Shrimp Appetizer\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8647\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Firecracker Shrimp, Photo by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Firecracker Shrimp\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>From The Steamy Kitchen Cookbook by Jaden Hair\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6 as appetizer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cornstarch or flour\u003cbr>\n¼ cup water\u003cbr>\n24 medium tail-on shrimp, shelled (leave tails on) and deveined\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground black pepper\u003cbr>\n1 cup sweet chilli sauce, divided \u003cem>*Recommended brands: Mae Ploy and Lingham (thicker, spicier and less sweet than Mae Ploy)\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n12 eggroll or fresh spring roll wrappers, cut in half diagonally and covered with plastic wrap or a damp cloth\u003cbr>\nHigh-heat cooking oil for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tIn a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with the water to make a slurry.\u003cbr>\n2)\tLay the shrimp flat on a cutting board and using a sharp paring knife, cut a few nicks on the inside curve of the shrimp. Be careful not to cut through the shrimp. Pat the shrimp very dry.\u003cbr>\n3)\tSeason the shrimp with the salt and pepper. Pour ¼ cup of the sweet chilli sauce on a small plate. Hold the shrimp by its tail and dip both sides of the shrimp in the sweet chilli sauce. Avoid getting the tails wet (if the tail of the shrimp is wet with marinade, it will splatter in the hot oil). Let the shrimp marinade for 10 minutes at room temperature.\u003cbr>\n4)\tUse paper towels to pat the shrimp slightly, to soak up the extra marinade. Some of the sticky sweet chilli sauce should still be on the shrimp.\u003cbr>\n5)\tRoll the shrimp in the halved wrappers, following the instructions below.\u003cbr>\n6)\tIn a wok, deep fryer or large sauté pan, add 1 ½ inches of oil and heat it to 375 degrees F. Add the firecracker shrimp a few at a time to the oil and fry until golden brown on each side, about 3 minutes. Drain on a baking rack and serve with a side of sweet chilli sauce for dipping.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Option: \u003c/em>Add a thin slice of mango with the shrimp with wrapping to make Firecracker Mango Shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/firecracker-shrimp-wrapoing.jpg\" alt=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" title=\"Wrapping firecracker shrimp, step by step\" width=\"500\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8648\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Step by Step Wrapping\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rolling the Shrimp Wrapper\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1)\tLay an eggroll or spring roll wrapper on a dry, clean surface as shown. Lay a shrimp with the tail sticking out.\u003cbr>\n2)\tBring the left corner of the wrapper over the shrimp and being rolling left to right. Make sure that you are rolling tightly. As you roll, bring the top corner o the wrapper down and over the shrimp. Again, make sure you leave no open pockets of air. Big air pockets and holes will allow oil to seep in.\u003cbr>\n3)\tContinue rolling towards the right. Dip your finger or a pastry brush into the cornstarch slurry and pain the final corner. Roll to seal. Lay the roll seam side down on a dry plate or tray. Repeat with the rest of the shrimp and wrappers. Keep all uncooked Firecracker Shrimp covered with plastic wrap or barely damp towel.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "The Political Mind of Jerry Brown brings listeners the wisdom of the former Governor, Mayor, and presidential candidate. Scott Shafer interviewed Brown for more than 40 hours, covering the former governor's life and half-century in the political game – and Brown has some lessons he'd like to share. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"mindshift": {
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"order": 12
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"info": "\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us",
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"perspectives": {
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"planet-money": {
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"info": "The economy explained. Imagine you could call up a friend and say, Meet me at the bar and tell me what's going on with the economy. Now imagine that's actually a fun evening.",
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"politicalbreakdown": {
"id": "politicalbreakdown",
"title": "Political Breakdown",
"tagline": "Politics from a personal perspective",
"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
"airtime": "THU 6:30pm-7pm",
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"possible": {
"id": "possible",
"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
"airtime": "SUN 2pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.possible.fm/",
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"source": "Possible"
},
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},
"pri-the-world": {
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"title": "PRI's The World: Latest Edition",
"info": "Each weekday, host Marco Werman and his team of producers bring you the world's most interesting stories in an hour of radio that reminds us just how small our planet really is.",
"airtime": "MON-FRI 2pm-3pm",
"imageSrc": "https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/The-World-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg",
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},
"radiolab": {
"id": "radiolab",
"title": "Radiolab",
"info": "A two-time Peabody Award-winner, Radiolab is an investigation told through sounds and stories, and centered around one big idea. In the Radiolab world, information sounds like music and science and culture collide. Hosted by Jad Abumrad and Robert Krulwich, the show is designed for listeners who demand skepticism, but appreciate wonder. WNYC Studios is the producer of other leading podcasts including Freakonomics Radio, Death, Sex & Money, On the Media and many more.",
"airtime": "SUN 12am-1am, SAT 2pm-3pm",
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},
"reveal": {
"id": "reveal",
"title": "Reveal",
"info": "Created by The Center for Investigative Reporting and PRX, Reveal is public radios first one-hour weekly radio show and podcast dedicated to investigative reporting. Credible, fact based and without a partisan agenda, Reveal combines the power and artistry of driveway moment storytelling with data-rich reporting on critically important issues. The result is stories that inform and inspire, arming our listeners with information to right injustices, hold the powerful accountable and improve lives.Reveal is hosted by Al Letson and showcases the award-winning work of CIR and newsrooms large and small across the nation. In a radio and podcast market crowded with choices, Reveal focuses on important and often surprising stories that illuminate the world for our listeners.",
"airtime": "SAT 4pm-5pm",
"imageSrc": "https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/reveal300px.png",
"officialWebsiteLink": "https://www.revealnews.org/episodes/",
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"source": "npr"
},
"link": "/radio/program/reveal",
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"rss": "http://feeds.revealradio.org/revealpodcast"
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},
"rightnowish": {
"id": "rightnowish",
"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"source": "kqed",
"order": 16
},
"link": "/podcasts/rightnowish",
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