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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/sliced-lemons1.jpg\" alt=\"sliced lemons\" title=\"sliced lemons\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9886\">\u003cbr>\nIt's January, which in the Bay Area (and all of California, for that matter) means it's citrus season. While much of the rest of the country is frozen over -- today in Boston the forecast was 34 degrees and snowing -- we're lucky enough to live someplace where winter means fresh oranges, limes, grapefruits and lemons. And queen among the local citrus trees -- at least in my book -- is the Meyer lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer lemons are an amazing fruit. Originally created in China as a lemon and mandarin orange hybrid, it has an appealing sweetness lacking in other lemons. And, with a fragrant and thin rind, barely any pith, and ample juice, it's really the ideal cooking lemon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I planted my Meyer lemon tree around five years ago, and although it's given me a steady stream of fruit since we first set it into the ground outside our front porch, this is the first year that our tree was crowded with lemons. So what do you do with an overabundance of sweet and tart Meyers? In my case, I had great plans to make marmalade. I pondered how to make it, discussed recipes with neighbors, and deliberated over whether or not I should incorporate other citruses into the jam. But after a couple of weeks with sick kids and a sicker husband, plus a pile of work to wade through, those lemons still sat on the tree: bright yellow orbs taunting me each time I walked up my front stairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully I have talented friends with a can-do attitude (well, one friend in particular). When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim and Keith Laidlaw\u003c/a> came to my house last weekend, I mentioned my marmalade aspirations as we walked past the tree, hoping that one day soon I'd be able to make it. And then something miraculous happened. After walking the dogs in the rain a half hour later, I dried off their mud spattered fur and entered the kitchen to warm up with some hot tea. But instead of finding Kim and Keith relaxing in my family room, I was met instead with the glorious image of Kim sitting at my counter, patiently slicing lemons from the enormous pile she had picked while I was out. A true friend indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Kim-hard-at-work.jpg\" alt=\"Kim hard at work\" title=\"Kim hard at work\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9862\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the lemons were all sliced, we set them in a pot and covered them with water to steep overnight. This allows some of the pectin in the pith beneath the rind to release into the water. It also makes the lemon slices more malleable. In the morning, we added some sugar along with a satchel of the lemon seeds, pith and lemon ends (which we had saved and tied in a cheesecloth) to the pot. After simmering for an hour, the mixture was ready to go. It was sweet and tart with a nice mild bitter marmalade edge. If you don't like any bitterness in your preserves, you can omit the seeds from the recipe, but you may end up with a runnier marmalade as the seeds add pectin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/marmalade-in-a-jar.jpg\" alt=\"marmalade in a jar\" title=\"marmalade in a jar\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9863\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now normally I would can my jam, but the ennui that has enveloped me all January was still too strong, so Kim and I instead plopped some of the marmalade into washed jars to be used immediately and then I also froze some for later use. I hear that marmalade improves with age, so if you have the time and inclination, it's worth canning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning after the kids left for school, I sat and ate toast topped with Meyer lemon marmalade while contemplating how lucky I was to have such a lovely jam-making friend. It takes someone special to notice when your life gets in the way of your hopes, even if that hope is simply to make marmalade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/lemon-to-be-cut.jpg\" alt=\"lemon to be cut\" title=\"lemon to be cut\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9865\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Meyer Lemon Marmalade\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Kim, the key to great marmalade is slicing the lemons sliver thin. So be sure to use a sharp chef's knife. Here's what you do:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Wash the lemons and set in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-off-the-ends1.jpg\" alt=\"slicing off the ends\" title=\"slicing off the ends\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9866\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut the ends off the lemons and then slice in half length-wise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/removing-the-inner-pith.jpg\" alt=\"removing the inner pith\" title=\"removing the inner pith\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9867\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Slice out the pith in the lemon's inner core and set into a bowl to keep for later use. You should also set the lemon ends in this bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon's seeds and place into that bowl of pith and ends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-the-lemon.jpg\" alt=\"slicing the lemon\" title=\"slicing the lemon\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9868\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Cut lemons into paper thin slices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Place lemon slices in a large pot, being sure to scrape the juice from the cutting board in as well so you retain the juices. Soak at least over night and up to two days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the recipe we used. The sugar amount is flexible and should be determined by how sweet you like your marmalade. Kim and I both like ours a bit tart, so we used the lesser amount. When your batch is complete, you can either can the jam in hot jars, freeze it in plastic bags or containers, or refrigerate and then eat within a week or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>6 small or 3 large jars of jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 cups thinly sliced lemons with the seeds, ends and inner pith removed and set aside\u003cbr>\n5 cups water\u003cbr>\n4-5 cups granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPreparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place lemon slices in a large pot and cover with water. Let steep overnight.\u003cbr>\n2. Once lemons have steeped, add the sugar to the pot and mix.\u003cbr>\n3. Place the seeds, pith and lemon ends in cheesecloth. Tie up and set into the mixture.\u003cbr>\n4. Bring the lemons to a boil and then reduce heat. Simmer for one hour.\u003cbr>\n5. Can or freeze.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I planted my Meyer lemon tree around five years ago, and although it's given me a steady stream of fruit since we first set it into the ground outside our front porch, this is the first year that our tree was crowded with lemons. So what do you do with an overabundance of sweet and tart Meyers? In my case, I had great plans to make marmalade. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/sliced-lemons1.jpg\" alt=\"sliced lemons\" title=\"sliced lemons\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9886\">\u003cbr>\nIt's January, which in the Bay Area (and all of California, for that matter) means it's citrus season. While much of the rest of the country is frozen over -- today in Boston the forecast was 34 degrees and snowing -- we're lucky enough to live someplace where winter means fresh oranges, limes, grapefruits and lemons. And queen among the local citrus trees -- at least in my book -- is the Meyer lemon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer lemons are an amazing fruit. Originally created in China as a lemon and mandarin orange hybrid, it has an appealing sweetness lacking in other lemons. And, with a fragrant and thin rind, barely any pith, and ample juice, it's really the ideal cooking lemon. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I planted my Meyer lemon tree around five years ago, and although it's given me a steady stream of fruit since we first set it into the ground outside our front porch, this is the first year that our tree was crowded with lemons. So what do you do with an overabundance of sweet and tart Meyers? In my case, I had great plans to make marmalade. I pondered how to make it, discussed recipes with neighbors, and deliberated over whether or not I should incorporate other citruses into the jam. But after a couple of weeks with sick kids and a sicker husband, plus a pile of work to wade through, those lemons still sat on the tree: bright yellow orbs taunting me each time I walked up my front stairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully I have talented friends with a can-do attitude (well, one friend in particular). When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim and Keith Laidlaw\u003c/a> came to my house last weekend, I mentioned my marmalade aspirations as we walked past the tree, hoping that one day soon I'd be able to make it. And then something miraculous happened. After walking the dogs in the rain a half hour later, I dried off their mud spattered fur and entered the kitchen to warm up with some hot tea. But instead of finding Kim and Keith relaxing in my family room, I was met instead with the glorious image of Kim sitting at my counter, patiently slicing lemons from the enormous pile she had picked while I was out. A true friend indeed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Kim-hard-at-work.jpg\" alt=\"Kim hard at work\" title=\"Kim hard at work\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9862\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the lemons were all sliced, we set them in a pot and covered them with water to steep overnight. This allows some of the pectin in the pith beneath the rind to release into the water. It also makes the lemon slices more malleable. In the morning, we added some sugar along with a satchel of the lemon seeds, pith and lemon ends (which we had saved and tied in a cheesecloth) to the pot. After simmering for an hour, the mixture was ready to go. It was sweet and tart with a nice mild bitter marmalade edge. If you don't like any bitterness in your preserves, you can omit the seeds from the recipe, but you may end up with a runnier marmalade as the seeds add pectin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/marmalade-in-a-jar.jpg\" alt=\"marmalade in a jar\" title=\"marmalade in a jar\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9863\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now normally I would can my jam, but the ennui that has enveloped me all January was still too strong, so Kim and I instead plopped some of the marmalade into washed jars to be used immediately and then I also froze some for later use. I hear that marmalade improves with age, so if you have the time and inclination, it's worth canning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next morning after the kids left for school, I sat and ate toast topped with Meyer lemon marmalade while contemplating how lucky I was to have such a lovely jam-making friend. It takes someone special to notice when your life gets in the way of your hopes, even if that hope is simply to make marmalade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/lemon-to-be-cut.jpg\" alt=\"lemon to be cut\" title=\"lemon to be cut\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9865\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Homemade Meyer Lemon Marmalade\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Kim, the key to great marmalade is slicing the lemons sliver thin. So be sure to use a sharp chef's knife. Here's what you do:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Wash the lemons and set in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-off-the-ends1.jpg\" alt=\"slicing off the ends\" title=\"slicing off the ends\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9866\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cut the ends off the lemons and then slice in half length-wise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/removing-the-inner-pith.jpg\" alt=\"removing the inner pith\" title=\"removing the inner pith\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9867\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Slice out the pith in the lemon's inner core and set into a bowl to keep for later use. You should also set the lemon ends in this bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Remove the lemon's seeds and place into that bowl of pith and ends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/slicing-the-lemon.jpg\" alt=\"slicing the lemon\" title=\"slicing the lemon\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9868\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Cut lemons into paper thin slices. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Place lemon slices in a large pot, being sure to scrape the juice from the cutting board in as well so you retain the juices. Soak at least over night and up to two days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the recipe we used. The sugar amount is flexible and should be determined by how sweet you like your marmalade. Kim and I both like ours a bit tart, so we used the lesser amount. When your batch is complete, you can either can the jam in hot jars, freeze it in plastic bags or containers, or refrigerate and then eat within a week or two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes: \u003c/strong>6 small or 3 large jars of jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 cups thinly sliced lemons with the seeds, ends and inner pith removed and set aside\u003cbr>\n5 cups water\u003cbr>\n4-5 cups granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nPreparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place lemon slices in a large pot and cover with water. Let steep overnight.\u003cbr>\n2. Once lemons have steeped, add the sugar to the pot and mix.\u003cbr>\n3. Place the seeds, pith and lemon ends in cheesecloth. Tie up and set into the mixture.\u003cbr>\n4. Bring the lemons to a boil and then reduce heat. Simmer for one hour.\u003cbr>\n5. Can or freeze.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust ",
"title": "Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust ",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-035.jpg\" alt=\"Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" title=\"Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9839\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did you know that today is National Cheese Lover's Day? Isn't that lovely?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To commemorate this happy holiday, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/\">Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board\u003c/a> is launching a \u003cstrong>Macaroni & Cheese Blog\u003c/strong> which will feature a new macaroni & cheese recipe every day for thirty days. There goes that New Year's resolution (unless your resolution was to be happier in life). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've always been partial to using gruyere and parmigiano for mac 'n' cheese, but the good people at Wisconsin Milk convinced me to give American a try. They sent me some aged Marieke Gouda and Stravecchio Parmesan from Sartori Reserve...and I was promptly inspired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without a question, the ultimate comfort food is macaroni and cheese. Gooey, cheesy, warm, and indulgent. The inspiration on this twist on the classic mac 'n' cheese comes from one of my favorite pasta dishes, \u003cem>Tortelli di Zucca\u003c/em> (large ravioli-like pasta stuffed with a pumpkin filling). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first sampled this taste of heaven during my year abroad living in Italy. On a visit to the charming Renaissance city of \u003cem>Mantova\u003c/em> (Mantua), I was introduced to the town's signature dish of handmade ravioli stuffed with a velvety smooth puree of pumpkin, crushed almondy Amaretti cookies, and a hint of spices. The al dente pillows of precious filled pasta were bathed in a luxurious sauce of brown butter and a shower of parmigiano.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That meal has haunted me for 6 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it has coaxed me into creating this Italian-American fusion of ultimate comfort, \u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-005.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" title=\"Ingredients for Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9831\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butternut squash is one of my favorite ingredients to work with during the fall and winter because it just exudes a sweet, hearty, warmth. When it's roasted, all the sugars caramelize and the flavor of the squash is intensified. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-010.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash\" title=\"Butternut Squash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9833\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pair it with the other star ingredient in this dish, the aged Gouda, and we have ourselves a sweet-and-savory homerun! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-008.jpg\" alt=\"Marieke Gouda\" title=\"Marieke Gouda\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9832\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The technique to making this dish is pretty standard as far as mac and cheese goes. After sautéing the onions and sage, a roux is made with flour, chicken stock, and milk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-018.jpg\" alt=\"Roux\" title=\"Roux\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9835\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the squash is added to the mix...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-020.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash and roux\" title=\"Butternut Squash and roux\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9836\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and smashed in a bit to fully incorporate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-022.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash cheese sauce\" title=\"Butternut Squash cheese sauce\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9837\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the sauce is made, it is added to the macaroni (since we can't all be as blessed as the Mantuans with their homemade pasta at a finger's snap). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-027.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Mac n Cheese\" title=\"Butternut Squash Mac n Cheese\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9838\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, comes the magic of toppings. I loved how the nutty spice of the Amaretti cookies played with the flavor of the pumpkin in the \u003cem>Tortelli di Zucca\u003c/em>. In this mac and cheese, that sweet, unexpected crunch translates as gingersnaps. I also threw in a handful of chopped pecans too because I love how their faintly maple flavor goes with sweet potatoes, and I thought...butternut squash? Sweet potato? Pretty similar, no? (At the very least, both orange.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I may not be able to jet-set to Italy whenever I get the craving for some \u003cem>tortelli\u003c/em> lovin', but that doesn't mean I can't get my fix of pumpkin and spice and everything nice! Surprise your guests with this dish this winter. The presentation is beautiful and homey, and one bite will have them coming for more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-036.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust \" title=\"Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9840\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 small butternut squash (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups)\u003cbr>\n1 lb elbow macaroni\u003cbr>\n1 small onion, diced\u003cbr>\n1 cup chicken stock\u003cbr>\n1 ½ cups nonfat milk\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp flour\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon fresh sage, minced\u003cbr>\n2 cups grated aged Marieke Gouda cheese\u003cbr>\n1 cup grated Stravecchio Parmesan cheese (Sartori Reserve, 2 year aged)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Dijon mustard\u003cbr>\npinch of freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>\npinch of cayenne pepper\u003cbr>\n½ cup crumbled gingersnap cookies (about 8 cookies)\u003cbr>\n½ cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp olive oil\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon pepper \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.\tPreheat the oven to 450°F. Toss the squash with olive oil, salt and pepper to season. Roast on a foil-lined baking sheet for 20-25 minutes until lightly browned. Set aside and turn the oven down to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\tBring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add macaroni and cook until al dente according to the package instructions, about 8 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3.\tWhile the pasta cooks, heat a large pan over medium heat. Add the butter, chopped onion, and sage. Saute about 4-5 minutes until onions are translucent. Add the flour and stir to combine. Let the mixture cook for 1-2 more minutes. Whisk in stock and milk, and let come to a boil to thicken up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4.\tNext, add the cheeses, mustard, nutmeg, and cayenne. Stir to combine. Then, mix in the squash. Use a whisk to mash up the squash a little. I prefer to leave a few chunky pieces of the squash in the sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5.\tDrain the cooked pasta and return it to the pot. Pour the sauce over the pasta and combine well. Pour the mac 'n' cheese into a buttered casserole dish. Sprinkle the gingersnap cookie crumble and pecans over the top and drizzle with a little olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6.\tCover with foil and bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes more. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Gooey, cheesy, warm, and indulgent. The inspiration for this twist on the classic mac n' cheese comes from the haunting memory of Tortelli di Zucca from Mantua (handmade ravioli stuffed with a velvety smooth puree of pumpkin, crushed almondy Amaretti cookies, and a hint of spices). ",
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"description": "Gooey, cheesy, warm, and indulgent. The inspiration for this twist on the classic mac n' cheese comes from the haunting memory of Tortelli di Zucca from Mantua (handmade ravioli stuffed with a velvety smooth puree of pumpkin, crushed almondy Amaretti cookies, and a hint of spices). ",
"title": "Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust | KQED",
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"headline": "Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-035.jpg\" alt=\"Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" title=\"Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9839\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did you know that today is National Cheese Lover's Day? Isn't that lovely?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To commemorate this happy holiday, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/\">Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board\u003c/a> is launching a \u003cstrong>Macaroni & Cheese Blog\u003c/strong> which will feature a new macaroni & cheese recipe every day for thirty days. There goes that New Year's resolution (unless your resolution was to be happier in life). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've always been partial to using gruyere and parmigiano for mac 'n' cheese, but the good people at Wisconsin Milk convinced me to give American a try. They sent me some aged Marieke Gouda and Stravecchio Parmesan from Sartori Reserve...and I was promptly inspired. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without a question, the ultimate comfort food is macaroni and cheese. Gooey, cheesy, warm, and indulgent. The inspiration on this twist on the classic mac 'n' cheese comes from one of my favorite pasta dishes, \u003cem>Tortelli di Zucca\u003c/em> (large ravioli-like pasta stuffed with a pumpkin filling). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I first sampled this taste of heaven during my year abroad living in Italy. On a visit to the charming Renaissance city of \u003cem>Mantova\u003c/em> (Mantua), I was introduced to the town's signature dish of handmade ravioli stuffed with a velvety smooth puree of pumpkin, crushed almondy Amaretti cookies, and a hint of spices. The al dente pillows of precious filled pasta were bathed in a luxurious sauce of brown butter and a shower of parmigiano.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That meal has haunted me for 6 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it has coaxed me into creating this Italian-American fusion of ultimate comfort, \u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-005.jpg\" alt=\"Ingredients for Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" title=\"Ingredients for Mac n Cheese with Butternut Squash\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9831\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butternut squash is one of my favorite ingredients to work with during the fall and winter because it just exudes a sweet, hearty, warmth. When it's roasted, all the sugars caramelize and the flavor of the squash is intensified. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-010.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash\" title=\"Butternut Squash\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9833\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pair it with the other star ingredient in this dish, the aged Gouda, and we have ourselves a sweet-and-savory homerun! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-008.jpg\" alt=\"Marieke Gouda\" title=\"Marieke Gouda\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9832\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The technique to making this dish is pretty standard as far as mac and cheese goes. After sautéing the onions and sage, a roux is made with flour, chicken stock, and milk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-018.jpg\" alt=\"Roux\" title=\"Roux\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9835\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the squash is added to the mix...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-020.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash and roux\" title=\"Butternut Squash and roux\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9836\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>...and smashed in a bit to fully incorporate. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-022.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash cheese sauce\" title=\"Butternut Squash cheese sauce\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9837\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the sauce is made, it is added to the macaroni (since we can't all be as blessed as the Mantuans with their homemade pasta at a finger's snap). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-027.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Mac n Cheese\" title=\"Butternut Squash Mac n Cheese\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9838\"> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After that, comes the magic of toppings. I loved how the nutty spice of the Amaretti cookies played with the flavor of the pumpkin in the \u003cem>Tortelli di Zucca\u003c/em>. In this mac and cheese, that sweet, unexpected crunch translates as gingersnaps. I also threw in a handful of chopped pecans too because I love how their faintly maple flavor goes with sweet potatoes, and I thought...butternut squash? Sweet potato? Pretty similar, no? (At the very least, both orange.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I may not be able to jet-set to Italy whenever I get the craving for some \u003cem>tortelli\u003c/em> lovin', but that doesn't mean I can't get my fix of pumpkin and spice and everything nice! Surprise your guests with this dish this winter. The presentation is beautiful and homey, and one bite will have them coming for more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Mac-n-Cheese-with-Butternut-Squash-036.jpg\" alt=\"Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust \" title=\"Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9840\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Butternut Squash Mac and Cheese with Sage and Gingersnap-Pecan Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 small butternut squash (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups)\u003cbr>\n1 lb elbow macaroni\u003cbr>\n1 small onion, diced\u003cbr>\n1 cup chicken stock\u003cbr>\n1 ½ cups nonfat milk\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp flour\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon fresh sage, minced\u003cbr>\n2 cups grated aged Marieke Gouda cheese\u003cbr>\n1 cup grated Stravecchio Parmesan cheese (Sartori Reserve, 2 year aged)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Dijon mustard\u003cbr>\npinch of freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>\npinch of cayenne pepper\u003cbr>\n½ cup crumbled gingersnap cookies (about 8 cookies)\u003cbr>\n½ cup chopped pecans\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp olive oil\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n½ teaspoon pepper \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.\tPreheat the oven to 450°F. Toss the squash with olive oil, salt and pepper to season. Roast on a foil-lined baking sheet for 20-25 minutes until lightly browned. Set aside and turn the oven down to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2.\tBring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add macaroni and cook until al dente according to the package instructions, about 8 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3.\tWhile the pasta cooks, heat a large pan over medium heat. Add the butter, chopped onion, and sage. Saute about 4-5 minutes until onions are translucent. Add the flour and stir to combine. Let the mixture cook for 1-2 more minutes. Whisk in stock and milk, and let come to a boil to thicken up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4.\tNext, add the cheeses, mustard, nutmeg, and cayenne. Stir to combine. Then, mix in the squash. Use a whisk to mash up the squash a little. I prefer to leave a few chunky pieces of the squash in the sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5.\tDrain the cooked pasta and return it to the pot. Pour the sauce over the pasta and combine well. Pour the mac 'n' cheese into a buttered casserole dish. Sprinkle the gingersnap cookie crumble and pecans over the top and drizzle with a little olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6.\tCover with foil and bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until lightly browned on top, about 30 minutes more. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Restorative Noshing",
"title": "Restorative Noshing",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>Someone must close down the bar, but I am through volunteering for the position. This is not to say bourbon has lost its bloom, or that work days do not begin with brief foamy fantasies about the first cold beers to be cracked eight hours later. I can say (with a straight face) that serious carousing is an occupation for swollen wallets and spare time, and claim that, as of late, I have neither. I can rationalize moderation because I wake up very early and tire before last call the following morning. I can insist that going out is harder than staying in, especially when it's raining and there's work to do and Netflix in the mailbox. I can affect a jaded outlook, yawning that the sport of drinking doesn't hold the appeal it had ten years ago. I can label it a secondary activity, something I associate with games to watch, gigs to play, food to eat, and good conversations with friends. Big nights happen, yes, but usually on accident, I can say -- candidly, with no regrets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all parts of the problem (if embracing moderation can ever be considered one) but the real reason, the one that really has me avoiding bars and heading home early when I can't, is that these days, when I drink too much, my hangovers hit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MY3RtJUrD8\">Mike Tyson circa 1986\u003c/a>. After a few too many, I wake up stuffy, morose, disoriented, ugly, and sore. I don't ever get sick, but I forget details about where I went and who I saw. I don't have the energy to do the things that the day ahead demands, and my mood plummets correspondingly. When I was 20, I could shake off boozy sweats, dehydration, and body aches, and spring out of bed after five hours of sleep to bound around the house, read, study, and socialize -- all miraculously on an empty stomach. Now, on those increasingly infrequent occasions where I over-indulge, I am discovering that I desperately require food -- breakfast maybe, or at least a snack of heroic proportions -- to piece myself together again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restorative noshing is welcome immediately after the party, or hours later, upon waking. The fact that I've only really realized this in the latter half of my twenties probably says something about my learning curve in general. If hunger pangs strike on the way home from the bar, possibilities are limited. Most restaurants aren't open. Chorizo tacos from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-farolito-san-francisco-2\">El Farolito\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=la+vallarta+sf&fb=1&gl=us&hq=la+vallarta&hnear=sf&cid=3981052901989885288\">Taqueria Vallarta\u003c/a> hit the spot. I haven't been, but \u003ca href=\"http://myizakaya.com/\">Nombe\u003c/a>, the new-ish izakaya on Mission St., has a late-night take-out window selling ramen to revelers staggering home. Sometimes, an attack on the refrigerator is the best and cheapest recourse. I went out on Saturday night and stayed out -- gasp -- until 1 a.m. When I came home I realized nearly everything in the house that I felt like eating was being saved for a dinner with my dad the following night -- sausage for pizza, bread for croutons, and olives. Instead, I microwaved some leftover white rice and added salt and a few squirts of srirachi sauce. Something with srirachi sauce usually does the trick. Lately, I've also been especially enjoying plain corn tortillas roasted on a cast-iron skillet and then topped with srirachi and a few creamy squiggles of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/condiments-dressings/what-is-kewpie-mayonnaise-044639\">Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/a>. I do two at a time, folded over like miniature fusion-y quesadillas, and eat them fast, usually burning my mouth in the process. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those disinclined to wallow in gastronomic gutters, there is also, of course, street food -- bacon dogs, tamales, and the ever-growing assortment of heavily Twittered carts that tend to pop up on corners outside the doors of drinking establishments. As good as some of this stuff is (I'm thinking about you, gumbo guy), such trendy offerings come with long lines, and waiting fifteen minutes for a grilled flatbread behind a bunch of ravenous drunk people is rarely an attractive option when you're ravenous and drunk yourself. Fifteen minutes? I could be home by then, putting the final drizzle of srirachi on a corn tortilla, wearing the sweats, watching a little Larry David before passing out with a smile on my face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/tortilla-srirachi-mayo500.jpg\" alt=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" title=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9815\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise. You won't see this in Saveur.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol stirs the strangest cravings the morning after. Some people wake up and go for eggs, pancakes, waffles, sausage, and other conventional breakfast-y things. There is scientific logic to this. Eggs contain cysteine, a substance that breaks down the hangover-causing toxin acetaldehyde in the liver. Fruit juice actually hastens the rate at which a body gets ride of toxins like those generated by alcohol metabolism. Bananas, also common at breakfast, replace potassium lost to alcohol's diuretic tendencies. Fried or stupendously unhealthy foods appeal because sufferers suspect that grease will soothe their irritated stomach linings -- nevermind the fact that it's more likely to have the opposite effect. Psychology is powerful, however, especially the morning after losing brain cells, and I think that sometimes people condition themselves to crave the very things that will hurt them more. It's, in the long run, a fairly harmless sort of self-loathing -- sitting down to a plate of battered chicken, savoring the punishment disguised as a cure, letting your over-taxed body pay the tab your inconsiderate brain racked up. Some treat their morning afflictions like illness and self-medicate with more austere feasts -- steamed vegetables, spicy broths, and so on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, usually when New Year's Eve approaches, publications feel it necessary to run stories about hangovers and how to avoid them. Typically, these pieces involve interviews with bartenders, operating under the assumption that these callous dispensers of liquid poison know something about recovery too. On Christmas Eve, Grub Street \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2009/12/sf_bartenders_share_their_favo.html\">consulted\u003c/a> some mixologists on the subject, and the responses were fairly telegraphed, with most suggesting hair of the dog remedies. Likewise, a Dec. 31 Examiner article \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfexaminer.com/entertainment/Handy-cures-for-holiday-hangovers-80371202.html\">expanded\u003c/a> the sample group and saw similar results, with respondents largely sticking to the guns articulated by their respective professions. The bartender recommended more booze. The personal trainer advocated drinking plenty of water and working out. The doctor condemned drinking too much in the first place. The acupuncturist suggested acupuncture. I'm not sure if I have a profession to stick to, but I have done both drinking and thinking in my day, and for that reason, I hesitate to press any so-called \"cures\" on others. Hangovers are, after all, very personal things. I will however share a few meals that I have managed to enjoy under the bleariest of circumstances:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Indian buffet.\u003c/strong> This goes back to a summer home from college. The morning after a long night, some friends and I went to an Indian restaurant attached to a worn motel. After three plates of chicken korma, saag paneer, and samosas, I felt well enough to spend the rest of the day at the zoo. I'm not sure if there's a San Francisco equivalent, but once I woke up in San Jose, went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/new-indian-cuisine-san-jose#hrid:4hAyRH5dgltohBCagstFaA/src:search/query:buffet%20indian\">New Indian Cuisine\u003c/a>, and came away again convinced that naan is merely Advil slicked with ghee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A breaded chicken torta with chipotles\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-torta-gorda-san-francisco\">La Torta Gorda\u003c/a>. I'm always momentarily tempted to get a junior, but the full is the way to go. Go home, eat half, and put the remainder in the fridge. Get some covers and stretch out on the couch. Watch basketball or half a season of a television show you've already seen. Look up at the clock. It's nearly dinner-time. Good thing you have a brick-sized piece of torta to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A pickle, dill.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soup.\u003c/strong> I'm a soup person -- that could be a post in and of itself -- but it doesn't help my hangovers unless it's French onion from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ti-couz-san-francisco\">Ti Couz\u003c/a>, with some seafood salad and maybe a mushroom crepe on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken fingers and waffle fries with ranch dressing\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.phatphillys.com/\">Phat Philly\u003c/a>. This is actually my girlfriend's thing. She's yelling at me from the other room to include it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.johncampbells.com/\">John Campbell's Irish Bakery\u003c/a>. Once, a few years ago, I was staying out at my dad's in the Richmond District -- dog-sitting, house sitting, and cable-watching -- and I woke up after a night out with a painkiller-resistant headache, a sour hollow stomach, and my dad's whippet dashing around the bed in frantic circles. I had hopped off the 38 at 1:30 a.m. and decided to grab one more at the Blarney Stone. Pulling on a coat, leashing the dog, and stepping out into the stabbing mist, I walked back to the scene of the crime and had a piece of pizza (it might have been called \"focaccia\") from John Campbell's, the fantastic bakery next door to the 'Stone. This was like nothing you'd see at A16, Flour + Water, or even Pizza Hut. There was turkey or ham in cubes, peppers and onions, maybe. A white sauce and cheese, I want to say. The dog was whimpering, begging for a taste. I can't recall the details, but the slice (a slab, really) was like a combination of stew and scone, or an upside-down pot pie even -- bread-y, bland, and bad, at least as far as pizza goes. Yet held to a different standard -- alcohol absorption -- it delivered -- nearly as well as a corn tortilla with hot sauce and mayo.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The bartender recommended more booze. The personal trainer advocated drinking plenty of water and working out. The doctor condemned drinking too much in the first place. The acupuncturist suggested acupuncture. I'm not sure if I have a profession to stick to, but I have done both drinking and thinking in my day, and for that reason, I hesitate to press any so-called \"cures\" on others. Hangovers are, after all, very personal things. I will however share a few meals that I have managed to enjoy under the bleariest of circumstances.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Someone must close down the bar, but I am through volunteering for the position. This is not to say bourbon has lost its bloom, or that work days do not begin with brief foamy fantasies about the first cold beers to be cracked eight hours later. I can say (with a straight face) that serious carousing is an occupation for swollen wallets and spare time, and claim that, as of late, I have neither. I can rationalize moderation because I wake up very early and tire before last call the following morning. I can insist that going out is harder than staying in, especially when it's raining and there's work to do and Netflix in the mailbox. I can affect a jaded outlook, yawning that the sport of drinking doesn't hold the appeal it had ten years ago. I can label it a secondary activity, something I associate with games to watch, gigs to play, food to eat, and good conversations with friends. Big nights happen, yes, but usually on accident, I can say -- candidly, with no regrets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those are all parts of the problem (if embracing moderation can ever be considered one) but the real reason, the one that really has me avoiding bars and heading home early when I can't, is that these days, when I drink too much, my hangovers hit like \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MY3RtJUrD8\">Mike Tyson circa 1986\u003c/a>. After a few too many, I wake up stuffy, morose, disoriented, ugly, and sore. I don't ever get sick, but I forget details about where I went and who I saw. I don't have the energy to do the things that the day ahead demands, and my mood plummets correspondingly. When I was 20, I could shake off boozy sweats, dehydration, and body aches, and spring out of bed after five hours of sleep to bound around the house, read, study, and socialize -- all miraculously on an empty stomach. Now, on those increasingly infrequent occasions where I over-indulge, I am discovering that I desperately require food -- breakfast maybe, or at least a snack of heroic proportions -- to piece myself together again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restorative noshing is welcome immediately after the party, or hours later, upon waking. The fact that I've only really realized this in the latter half of my twenties probably says something about my learning curve in general. If hunger pangs strike on the way home from the bar, possibilities are limited. Most restaurants aren't open. Chorizo tacos from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-farolito-san-francisco-2\">El Farolito\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=la+vallarta+sf&fb=1&gl=us&hq=la+vallarta&hnear=sf&cid=3981052901989885288\">Taqueria Vallarta\u003c/a> hit the spot. I haven't been, but \u003ca href=\"http://myizakaya.com/\">Nombe\u003c/a>, the new-ish izakaya on Mission St., has a late-night take-out window selling ramen to revelers staggering home. Sometimes, an attack on the refrigerator is the best and cheapest recourse. I went out on Saturday night and stayed out -- gasp -- until 1 a.m. When I came home I realized nearly everything in the house that I felt like eating was being saved for a dinner with my dad the following night -- sausage for pizza, bread for croutons, and olives. Instead, I microwaved some leftover white rice and added salt and a few squirts of srirachi sauce. Something with srirachi sauce usually does the trick. Lately, I've also been especially enjoying plain corn tortillas roasted on a cast-iron skillet and then topped with srirachi and a few creamy squiggles of \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/thekitchn/condiments-dressings/what-is-kewpie-mayonnaise-044639\">Kewpie mayonnaise\u003c/a>. I do two at a time, folded over like miniature fusion-y quesadillas, and eat them fast, usually burning my mouth in the process. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those disinclined to wallow in gastronomic gutters, there is also, of course, street food -- bacon dogs, tamales, and the ever-growing assortment of heavily Twittered carts that tend to pop up on corners outside the doors of drinking establishments. As good as some of this stuff is (I'm thinking about you, gumbo guy), such trendy offerings come with long lines, and waiting fifteen minutes for a grilled flatbread behind a bunch of ravenous drunk people is rarely an attractive option when you're ravenous and drunk yourself. Fifteen minutes? I could be home by then, putting the final drizzle of srirachi on a corn tortilla, wearing the sweats, watching a little Larry David before passing out with a smile on my face. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/tortilla-srirachi-mayo500.jpg\" alt=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" title=\"tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9815\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tortilla with srirachi and Kewpie mayonnaise. You won't see this in Saveur.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol stirs the strangest cravings the morning after. Some people wake up and go for eggs, pancakes, waffles, sausage, and other conventional breakfast-y things. There is scientific logic to this. Eggs contain cysteine, a substance that breaks down the hangover-causing toxin acetaldehyde in the liver. Fruit juice actually hastens the rate at which a body gets ride of toxins like those generated by alcohol metabolism. Bananas, also common at breakfast, replace potassium lost to alcohol's diuretic tendencies. Fried or stupendously unhealthy foods appeal because sufferers suspect that grease will soothe their irritated stomach linings -- nevermind the fact that it's more likely to have the opposite effect. Psychology is powerful, however, especially the morning after losing brain cells, and I think that sometimes people condition themselves to crave the very things that will hurt them more. It's, in the long run, a fairly harmless sort of self-loathing -- sitting down to a plate of battered chicken, savoring the punishment disguised as a cure, letting your over-taxed body pay the tab your inconsiderate brain racked up. Some treat their morning afflictions like illness and self-medicate with more austere feasts -- steamed vegetables, spicy broths, and so on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, usually when New Year's Eve approaches, publications feel it necessary to run stories about hangovers and how to avoid them. Typically, these pieces involve interviews with bartenders, operating under the assumption that these callous dispensers of liquid poison know something about recovery too. On Christmas Eve, Grub Street \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2009/12/sf_bartenders_share_their_favo.html\">consulted\u003c/a> some mixologists on the subject, and the responses were fairly telegraphed, with most suggesting hair of the dog remedies. Likewise, a Dec. 31 Examiner article \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfexaminer.com/entertainment/Handy-cures-for-holiday-hangovers-80371202.html\">expanded\u003c/a> the sample group and saw similar results, with respondents largely sticking to the guns articulated by their respective professions. The bartender recommended more booze. The personal trainer advocated drinking plenty of water and working out. The doctor condemned drinking too much in the first place. The acupuncturist suggested acupuncture. I'm not sure if I have a profession to stick to, but I have done both drinking and thinking in my day, and for that reason, I hesitate to press any so-called \"cures\" on others. Hangovers are, after all, very personal things. I will however share a few meals that I have managed to enjoy under the bleariest of circumstances:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Indian buffet.\u003c/strong> This goes back to a summer home from college. The morning after a long night, some friends and I went to an Indian restaurant attached to a worn motel. After three plates of chicken korma, saag paneer, and samosas, I felt well enough to spend the rest of the day at the zoo. I'm not sure if there's a San Francisco equivalent, but once I woke up in San Jose, went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/new-indian-cuisine-san-jose#hrid:4hAyRH5dgltohBCagstFaA/src:search/query:buffet%20indian\">New Indian Cuisine\u003c/a>, and came away again convinced that naan is merely Advil slicked with ghee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A breaded chicken torta with chipotles\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-torta-gorda-san-francisco\">La Torta Gorda\u003c/a>. I'm always momentarily tempted to get a junior, but the full is the way to go. Go home, eat half, and put the remainder in the fridge. Get some covers and stretch out on the couch. Watch basketball or half a season of a television show you've already seen. Look up at the clock. It's nearly dinner-time. Good thing you have a brick-sized piece of torta to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A pickle, dill.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Soup.\u003c/strong> I'm a soup person -- that could be a post in and of itself -- but it doesn't help my hangovers unless it's French onion from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ti-couz-san-francisco\">Ti Couz\u003c/a>, with some seafood salad and maybe a mushroom crepe on the side. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chicken fingers and waffle fries with ranch dressing\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.phatphillys.com/\">Phat Philly\u003c/a>. This is actually my girlfriend's thing. She's yelling at me from the other room to include it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.johncampbells.com/\">John Campbell's Irish Bakery\u003c/a>. Once, a few years ago, I was staying out at my dad's in the Richmond District -- dog-sitting, house sitting, and cable-watching -- and I woke up after a night out with a painkiller-resistant headache, a sour hollow stomach, and my dad's whippet dashing around the bed in frantic circles. I had hopped off the 38 at 1:30 a.m. and decided to grab one more at the Blarney Stone. Pulling on a coat, leashing the dog, and stepping out into the stabbing mist, I walked back to the scene of the crime and had a piece of pizza (it might have been called \"focaccia\") from John Campbell's, the fantastic bakery next door to the 'Stone. This was like nothing you'd see at A16, Flour + Water, or even Pizza Hut. There was turkey or ham in cubes, peppers and onions, maybe. A white sauce and cheese, I want to say. The dog was whimpering, begging for a taste. I can't recall the details, but the slice (a slab, really) was like a combination of stew and scone, or an upside-down pot pie even -- bread-y, bland, and bad, at least as far as pizza goes. Yet held to a different standard -- alcohol absorption -- it delivered -- nearly as well as a corn tortilla with hot sauce and mayo.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "2010 Fancy Food Show",
"title": "2010 Fancy Food Show",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/fancyfoodpanda.jpg\" alt=\"fancy food show panda licorice\" title=\"fancy food show panda licorice\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10042\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.specialtyfood.com/do/fancyFoodShow/LocationsAndDates\">Winter Fancy Food Show\u003c/a> is here in San Francisco through Tuesday, sprawling through the windowless, blue-carpeted acres of the Moscone Center. It's huge, filling both the North and South Halls on either side of Howard Street, over 2000 vendors on display, all here to make deals, talk shop, taste, schmooze, scope out the competition, see which way the market is moving. It's the biggest food-product show in the country, attracting all levels of the industry from big distributors with furry-suited mascots to small cheesemakers. The sleek Italians are here, promoting the wines of Sardinia, just a few aisles away from the guys touting a line of wine-bottle carriers and gift bags. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's on display? Everything. It's both cheering and depressing at once. Everyone seems to have the utmost faith in their product, a shiny white-teeth optimism that \u003cem>of course\u003c/em> America needs bacon-flavored microwave popcorn that's also vegetarian and kosher, or applesauce in astronaut-style squeeze bags. Would you like to try a glass of water shipped from Siberia? Wouldn't you like to fancy up your dessert presentations with chocolate-truffle foam, now in a handy squirt can? Goji berries are good for you, you know. Here, you can eat them in cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone has a gimmick. These truffles are vegan and aligned with Indian ayurvedic practice, stamped with what could be the logo of a yoga studio and filled with coconut ginger-lemongrass ganache. These crunchy little cheese straws are made by real buttery-accented Southern ladies handing them out as if at a United Daughters of the Confederacy tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tabletop wedding fountains spout ginger-haberno barbecue glaze as an entire Hyatt's worth of men in dark blue suits crunch spreadsheet numbers behind brightly lit cheese displays. Pisco sours are being poured in the Peruvian aisle (a good thing), Lincolnshire elderflower soda in the British one. All the chocolate is decadent, all the cakes indulgent but guilt-free. And everyone is still smiling, smiling, under the fluorescent lights, snapping up samples and trading shop talk about warehouses and brokers, reps and prices. All the packaging is bright, brighter, brightest. Hand-sanitizing stations are set up at the end of every few aisles, even as it's impossible to estimate how many fingers have dug into the big bowls of loose nuts on display at this table, or scooped into that oozing wedge of Brie. One uses a toothpick, looks for untouched edges or single-serving cups, and hopes for the best. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what was worth trying? The new whole-milk ricotta at West Marin's \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a>, creamily rich and lusciously smooth, the product of months of experimentation by artisanal-dairy matriarch Cindy Callahan and her son Liam. Unlike their Jersey and sheep's-milk ricottas, made the traditional way from the leftover whey pressed out of their other cheeses, this ricotta starts with full-fat milk that's cultured, like yogurt, then left to coagulate and ripen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/cindy-callahan300.jpg\" alt=\"cindy callahan\" title=\"cindy callahan\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9786\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company's sheep herd is expanding, with lambing happening year-round now. This means more milk, which means the rest of the country will finally get the chance to breakfast on Bellwether's excellent sheep's-milk yogurt, as the company finally begins distribution beyond California. Callahan is upbeat; 2009 was a very good year for her sheep's-milk products. Down the road, she hopes, might be a Bellweather blue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Representing the green hills of Vermont, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.graftonvillagecheese.com/\">Grafton Village Cheese Company\u003c/a> is looking back to the roots of its popular Cheddar. Tasty, wax-sealed blocks of easy-to-love New England cheddar made be Grafton's stock in trade, but right now they're most excited about their old English-style wheels of bandage-wrapped cheddar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/graftoncheese500.jpg\" alt=\"grafton cheese\" title=\"grafton cheese\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9783\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raw milk from their two best farms goes straight from the milking parlors into the cheese-making rooms. Once the cheeses are formed and cloth-wrapped, they're sent over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cellarsatjasperhill.com/\">Cellars at Jasper Hill\u003c/a>, a custom aging facility built by the small-batch cheesemakers of Jasper Hill. The cloth wrapping lets the cheese breathe as it ages, collecting more flavor-inducing bacteria and developing an alluring bovine funk over 16 months in the caves. It's not quite up to the grand complexity of a great English cheddars like Montgomery, but it's closer than most. So far, the company is selling it by the wheel to a small number of cheese stores and high-end supermarkets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sauerkraut hasn't hit the scene yet, although it feels like a safe bet that it will by next year. Instead, there's the palate-cleansing, corpse-reviving blast of \u003ca href=\"http://www.milkimchi.com\">Mother-in-Law's Kimchi\u003c/a> neatly balanced between crunch and bite, heat and ferment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/kimchee500.jpg\" alt=\"kimchi\" title=\"kimchi\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9784\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Putting her mother and aunt to work serving up samples is company founder Lauryn Chun, who got the idea after hauling jars of her mother's homemade kimchi home to New York City following every visit home. Friends devoured the spicy condiment and begged for more. Now, she sells her Mason jars of fermented cabbage in fancy New York gourmet shops like Dean & Deluca as well at Bay Area-based online retailer \u003ca href=\"http://milkimchi.foodzie.com/artisan-kimchi-gift-pack.html\">Foodzie\u003c/a>. While Chun organizes kimchi-and-wine pairings in Manhattan, her mother stands by a more traditional approach. \"Koreans eat it three times a day,\" she tells curious customers at her daughter's stand. \"If we don't have kimchi, we \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/24/world/asia/24kimchi.html\">can't eat\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something to drink? There's lemon-ginger and berry-hibiscus kombucha, ready to retail at $3.50 a pop over at the Honest Tea booth. It tastes like kombucha does, like diluted cider vinegar with a hint of fruit. It will be rolling out nationally in March, and already the spokespeople at the booth can hear the happy hippie ka-ching at the registers of Whole Foods and elsewhere. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/kombucha500.jpg\" alt=\"kombucha\" title=\"kombucha\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9791\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More alluring are the Edwardian English-summer drinks from \u003ca href=\"http://www.belvoircordials.co.uk\">Belvoir\u003c/a>: a lightly herbal elderflower pressé the color of pale champagne, a vigorous, not-too-sweet ginger beer. Lovely on their own, they'd also make wonderful bases for summer cocktails, if San Francisco's bartenders ever look up from their current hot-and-heavy with absinthe and bitters. What could be more ladylike than a double-elderflower whammy with the ubiquitous St. Germain elderflower liqueur?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/belvoir500.jpg\" alt=\"belvoir\" title=\"belvoir\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9785\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, of course, comes chocolate. Chocolate is everywhere. It's \u003cem>still\u003c/em> decadent, \u003cem>still \u003c/em>indulgent, saving the world through fair-trade sourcing, scouring out those annoying free radicals, filled with everything from red wine to lemongrass. The cream of the crop, though, is elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.valrhona.com/us#/accueil\">Valrhona\u003c/a>, still clad in French Vogue-editor matte black. But the doors to the chateau have been eased open slowly, as the company launches an expanded line of baking chocolates geared towards the serious home cook, along with more single-origin bars and bonbon assortments. A box of 52 squares, each a single bite, is divvied up between 4 levels of cocoa percentage (from a 33% milk to a 70% dark) and 4 places of origin. It's the size of a small jewelry box, and much more of a sure thing, especially for the ladies on your list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ginger continues its ascendancy, in both sweet and savory alike. But never better than in the teeth-sticking chewies of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.gingerpeople.com/\">Ginger People\u003c/a>, who clearly know just what this sample-weary audience needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/ginger500.jpg\" alt=\"the ginger people - relieving nausea since 1984\" title=\"the ginger people - relieving nausea since 1984\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9782\">\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "The Winter Fancy Food Show is here in San Francisco through Tuesday, sprawling through the windowless, blue-carpeted acres down in the Moscone Center. It's huge, filling both the North and South Halls on either side of Howard Street, over 2000 vendors on display, all here to make deals, talk shop, taste, schmooze, scope out the competition, see which way the market is moving. It's the biggest food-product show in the country, attracting all levels of the industry from big distributors to small cheesemakers.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/fancyfoodpanda.jpg\" alt=\"fancy food show panda licorice\" title=\"fancy food show panda licorice\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10042\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.specialtyfood.com/do/fancyFoodShow/LocationsAndDates\">Winter Fancy Food Show\u003c/a> is here in San Francisco through Tuesday, sprawling through the windowless, blue-carpeted acres of the Moscone Center. It's huge, filling both the North and South Halls on either side of Howard Street, over 2000 vendors on display, all here to make deals, talk shop, taste, schmooze, scope out the competition, see which way the market is moving. It's the biggest food-product show in the country, attracting all levels of the industry from big distributors with furry-suited mascots to small cheesemakers. The sleek Italians are here, promoting the wines of Sardinia, just a few aisles away from the guys touting a line of wine-bottle carriers and gift bags. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's on display? Everything. It's both cheering and depressing at once. Everyone seems to have the utmost faith in their product, a shiny white-teeth optimism that \u003cem>of course\u003c/em> America needs bacon-flavored microwave popcorn that's also vegetarian and kosher, or applesauce in astronaut-style squeeze bags. Would you like to try a glass of water shipped from Siberia? Wouldn't you like to fancy up your dessert presentations with chocolate-truffle foam, now in a handy squirt can? Goji berries are good for you, you know. Here, you can eat them in cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone has a gimmick. These truffles are vegan and aligned with Indian ayurvedic practice, stamped with what could be the logo of a yoga studio and filled with coconut ginger-lemongrass ganache. These crunchy little cheese straws are made by real buttery-accented Southern ladies handing them out as if at a United Daughters of the Confederacy tea. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tabletop wedding fountains spout ginger-haberno barbecue glaze as an entire Hyatt's worth of men in dark blue suits crunch spreadsheet numbers behind brightly lit cheese displays. Pisco sours are being poured in the Peruvian aisle (a good thing), Lincolnshire elderflower soda in the British one. All the chocolate is decadent, all the cakes indulgent but guilt-free. And everyone is still smiling, smiling, under the fluorescent lights, snapping up samples and trading shop talk about warehouses and brokers, reps and prices. All the packaging is bright, brighter, brightest. Hand-sanitizing stations are set up at the end of every few aisles, even as it's impossible to estimate how many fingers have dug into the big bowls of loose nuts on display at this table, or scooped into that oozing wedge of Brie. One uses a toothpick, looks for untouched edges or single-serving cups, and hopes for the best. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what was worth trying? The new whole-milk ricotta at West Marin's \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a>, creamily rich and lusciously smooth, the product of months of experimentation by artisanal-dairy matriarch Cindy Callahan and her son Liam. Unlike their Jersey and sheep's-milk ricottas, made the traditional way from the leftover whey pressed out of their other cheeses, this ricotta starts with full-fat milk that's cultured, like yogurt, then left to coagulate and ripen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/cindy-callahan300.jpg\" alt=\"cindy callahan\" title=\"cindy callahan\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9786\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company's sheep herd is expanding, with lambing happening year-round now. This means more milk, which means the rest of the country will finally get the chance to breakfast on Bellwether's excellent sheep's-milk yogurt, as the company finally begins distribution beyond California. Callahan is upbeat; 2009 was a very good year for her sheep's-milk products. Down the road, she hopes, might be a Bellweather blue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Representing the green hills of Vermont, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.graftonvillagecheese.com/\">Grafton Village Cheese Company\u003c/a> is looking back to the roots of its popular Cheddar. Tasty, wax-sealed blocks of easy-to-love New England cheddar made be Grafton's stock in trade, but right now they're most excited about their old English-style wheels of bandage-wrapped cheddar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/graftoncheese500.jpg\" alt=\"grafton cheese\" title=\"grafton cheese\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9783\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raw milk from their two best farms goes straight from the milking parlors into the cheese-making rooms. Once the cheeses are formed and cloth-wrapped, they're sent over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cellarsatjasperhill.com/\">Cellars at Jasper Hill\u003c/a>, a custom aging facility built by the small-batch cheesemakers of Jasper Hill. The cloth wrapping lets the cheese breathe as it ages, collecting more flavor-inducing bacteria and developing an alluring bovine funk over 16 months in the caves. It's not quite up to the grand complexity of a great English cheddars like Montgomery, but it's closer than most. So far, the company is selling it by the wheel to a small number of cheese stores and high-end supermarkets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sauerkraut hasn't hit the scene yet, although it feels like a safe bet that it will by next year. Instead, there's the palate-cleansing, corpse-reviving blast of \u003ca href=\"http://www.milkimchi.com\">Mother-in-Law's Kimchi\u003c/a> neatly balanced between crunch and bite, heat and ferment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/kimchee500.jpg\" alt=\"kimchi\" title=\"kimchi\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9784\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Putting her mother and aunt to work serving up samples is company founder Lauryn Chun, who got the idea after hauling jars of her mother's homemade kimchi home to New York City following every visit home. Friends devoured the spicy condiment and begged for more. Now, she sells her Mason jars of fermented cabbage in fancy New York gourmet shops like Dean & Deluca as well at Bay Area-based online retailer \u003ca href=\"http://milkimchi.foodzie.com/artisan-kimchi-gift-pack.html\">Foodzie\u003c/a>. While Chun organizes kimchi-and-wine pairings in Manhattan, her mother stands by a more traditional approach. \"Koreans eat it three times a day,\" she tells curious customers at her daughter's stand. \"If we don't have kimchi, we \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/24/world/asia/24kimchi.html\">can't eat\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something to drink? There's lemon-ginger and berry-hibiscus kombucha, ready to retail at $3.50 a pop over at the Honest Tea booth. It tastes like kombucha does, like diluted cider vinegar with a hint of fruit. It will be rolling out nationally in March, and already the spokespeople at the booth can hear the happy hippie ka-ching at the registers of Whole Foods and elsewhere. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/kombucha500.jpg\" alt=\"kombucha\" title=\"kombucha\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9791\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More alluring are the Edwardian English-summer drinks from \u003ca href=\"http://www.belvoircordials.co.uk\">Belvoir\u003c/a>: a lightly herbal elderflower pressé the color of pale champagne, a vigorous, not-too-sweet ginger beer. Lovely on their own, they'd also make wonderful bases for summer cocktails, if San Francisco's bartenders ever look up from their current hot-and-heavy with absinthe and bitters. What could be more ladylike than a double-elderflower whammy with the ubiquitous St. Germain elderflower liqueur?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/belvoir500.jpg\" alt=\"belvoir\" title=\"belvoir\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9785\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, of course, comes chocolate. Chocolate is everywhere. It's \u003cem>still\u003c/em> decadent, \u003cem>still \u003c/em>indulgent, saving the world through fair-trade sourcing, scouring out those annoying free radicals, filled with everything from red wine to lemongrass. The cream of the crop, though, is elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.valrhona.com/us#/accueil\">Valrhona\u003c/a>, still clad in French Vogue-editor matte black. But the doors to the chateau have been eased open slowly, as the company launches an expanded line of baking chocolates geared towards the serious home cook, along with more single-origin bars and bonbon assortments. A box of 52 squares, each a single bite, is divvied up between 4 levels of cocoa percentage (from a 33% milk to a 70% dark) and 4 places of origin. It's the size of a small jewelry box, and much more of a sure thing, especially for the ladies on your list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ginger continues its ascendancy, in both sweet and savory alike. But never better than in the teeth-sticking chewies of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.gingerpeople.com/\">Ginger People\u003c/a>, who clearly know just what this sample-weary audience needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"disqusTitle": "Labouyi Bannann: A Bit of Haitian Comfort",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9686\" title=\"Labouyi Bannann\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Labouyi-Bannann.jpg\" alt=\"Labouyi Bannann\" width=\"288\" height=\"350\">I don't much feel like being clever today. My thoughts are 3,286 miles away in Port-au-Prince-- a city I have yet to visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps it is the fact that I live in a city that has been devastated by earthquakes in the past and will be, undoubtably, devastated again that the one in Haiti has taken up so much of my attention. The thought of those people I love most in the world killed, or trapped alive by fallen concrete and steel is something I wonder if I would have the strength to bear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for us, we have strict earthquake-driven building codes. We have support and money and infrastructure-- what little of that the people of Port-au-Prince had is destroyed or severely crippled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haitians need food, they need shelter, they need clothes, and they need medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rElMVoZ-vQ\">no matter what Mr. Limbaugh says\u003c/a>, they need our sympathy and our money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are interested in donating money to the cause of helping the victims of the Port-au-Prince earthquake I would recommend a quick visit to \u003ca href=\"http://www.charitynavigator.org/index.cfm?bay=content.view&cpid=1004\">Charity Navigator\u003c/a>. It can answer any questions/concerns you might have about \u003ca href=\"http://blog.charitynavigator.org/2010/01/are-text-donations-safe.html\">text-driven donations\u003c/a>, and assist in your decision as to which charity you might give.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or check out KQED's own \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/community/haitiaid.jsp\">Haiti Aid Resource Guide\u003c/a> while you're here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to \u003ca href=\"http://food.theatlantic.com/food-wire/food-for-haiti.php\">donate money specifically toward food aid in Haiti\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Atlantic\u003c/em> has an article linking to food aid resources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a growing number of local restaurants, musicians, book publishers, and whatnots joining the Haiti donating various percentages of their proceeds (in some cases 100%) to Haitian Relief. If you can stomach the exaggerated, offensive photo borrowed from The New York Post, you might actually find some good activities in which to engage over at \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2010/01/14/how_sf_restaurants_are_helping_haiti_how_you_can_too.php\">Eater SF.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Labouyi Bannann\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I was baking off the bit of fun I had originally planned to share today, everything just felt wrong. As I stood in my kitchen, I realized that I had never given much thought to Haiti. Period. I knew nothing of their music, or culture, or food. All that had ever come to mind prior to yesterday were thoughts of slavery, revolution, poverty, and natural disaster. Never in my life had I had a single, happy thought about the place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wondered what the people of Haiti ate? There are few better ways of getting the feel of an unfamiliar place or culture than to eat their food. If I were Haitian, I'd want something nourishing and, above all, comforting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's where Labouyi Banann comes in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's porridge, essentially-- one made from ripe banana and unripe plantain. There are myriad ways to spell it, but only one way to eat it-- with a spoon. Make that two ways to eat it-- hot or cold. Either way, it's a good way to start the day. Or end it, for that matter. The following recipe makes six to eight servings, so I will be breakfasting on it every morning and, while I do, I will be reading and watching and praying for things to get better (can these people \u003cem>please\u003c/em> get a break once in a while?) in Haiti.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 unripe (green) plantain\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large or two small, ripe yellow bananas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can (12 oz.) of evaporated milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can (12 oz.) of coconut milk (or 1 cup whole milk)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 whole star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of grated nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A heavy pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ light or dark brown sugar (white sugar will work, too)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ teaspoon grated lime zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More dark brown sugar and lime zest for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a blender, purée plantain, banana, and water until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place purée into a medium sized, heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil over low to medium heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add evaporated and coconut milks, lime zest, sugar, star anise, nutmeg, salt, and cinnamon sticks. Bring again to a boil and reduce to a simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent any burning. The texture should less like oatmeal and more like Cream of Wheat. Turn off heat and stir in vanilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. This can be eaten hot or cold. Garnish with a sprinkle of dark brown sugar and lime zest.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "I don't much feel like being clever today. My thoughts are 3,286 miles away in Port-au-Prince-- a city I have yet to visit.\r\n\r\nPerhaps it is the fact that I live in a city that has been devastated by earthquakes in the past and will be, undoubtably, devastated again that the earthquake in Haiti has taken up so much of my attention. The thought of those people I love most in the world killed, or trapped alive by fallen concrete and steel is something I wonder if I would have the strength to bear.\r\n\r\nFortunately for us, we have strict earthquake-driven building codes. We have support and money and infrastructure-- what little of that the people of Port-au-Prince had is destroyed or severely crippled.\r\n\r\nHaitians need food, they need shelter, they need clothes, and they need medicine.\r\n\r\nAnd, no matter what Mr. Limbaugh says, they need our sympathy and our money.",
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"description": "I don't much feel like being clever today. My thoughts are 3,286 miles away in Port-au-Prince-- a city I have yet to visit.\r\n\r\nPerhaps it is the fact that I live in a city that has been devastated by earthquakes in the past and will be, undoubtably, devastated again that the earthquake in Haiti has taken up so much of my attention. The thought of those people I love most in the world killed, or trapped alive by fallen concrete and steel is something I wonder if I would have the strength to bear.\r\n\r\nFortunately for us, we have strict earthquake-driven building codes. We have support and money and infrastructure-- what little of that the people of Port-au-Prince had is destroyed or severely crippled.\r\n\r\nHaitians need food, they need shelter, they need clothes, and they need medicine.\r\n\r\nAnd, no matter what Mr. Limbaugh says, they need our sympathy and our money.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9686\" title=\"Labouyi Bannann\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Labouyi-Bannann.jpg\" alt=\"Labouyi Bannann\" width=\"288\" height=\"350\">I don't much feel like being clever today. My thoughts are 3,286 miles away in Port-au-Prince-- a city I have yet to visit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps it is the fact that I live in a city that has been devastated by earthquakes in the past and will be, undoubtably, devastated again that the one in Haiti has taken up so much of my attention. The thought of those people I love most in the world killed, or trapped alive by fallen concrete and steel is something I wonder if I would have the strength to bear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately for us, we have strict earthquake-driven building codes. We have support and money and infrastructure-- what little of that the people of Port-au-Prince had is destroyed or severely crippled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Haitians need food, they need shelter, they need clothes, and they need medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rElMVoZ-vQ\">no matter what Mr. Limbaugh says\u003c/a>, they need our sympathy and our money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you are interested in donating money to the cause of helping the victims of the Port-au-Prince earthquake I would recommend a quick visit to \u003ca href=\"http://www.charitynavigator.org/index.cfm?bay=content.view&cpid=1004\">Charity Navigator\u003c/a>. It can answer any questions/concerns you might have about \u003ca href=\"http://blog.charitynavigator.org/2010/01/are-text-donations-safe.html\">text-driven donations\u003c/a>, and assist in your decision as to which charity you might give.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or check out KQED's own \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/community/haitiaid.jsp\">Haiti Aid Resource Guide\u003c/a> while you're here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want to \u003ca href=\"http://food.theatlantic.com/food-wire/food-for-haiti.php\">donate money specifically toward food aid in Haiti\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Atlantic\u003c/em> has an article linking to food aid resources.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a growing number of local restaurants, musicians, book publishers, and whatnots joining the Haiti donating various percentages of their proceeds (in some cases 100%) to Haitian Relief. If you can stomach the exaggerated, offensive photo borrowed from The New York Post, you might actually find some good activities in which to engage over at \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2010/01/14/how_sf_restaurants_are_helping_haiti_how_you_can_too.php\">Eater SF.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Labouyi Bannann\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I was baking off the bit of fun I had originally planned to share today, everything just felt wrong. As I stood in my kitchen, I realized that I had never given much thought to Haiti. Period. I knew nothing of their music, or culture, or food. All that had ever come to mind prior to yesterday were thoughts of slavery, revolution, poverty, and natural disaster. Never in my life had I had a single, happy thought about the place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wondered what the people of Haiti ate? There are few better ways of getting the feel of an unfamiliar place or culture than to eat their food. If I were Haitian, I'd want something nourishing and, above all, comforting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's where Labouyi Banann comes in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's porridge, essentially-- one made from ripe banana and unripe plantain. There are myriad ways to spell it, but only one way to eat it-- with a spoon. Make that two ways to eat it-- hot or cold. Either way, it's a good way to start the day. Or end it, for that matter. The following recipe makes six to eight servings, so I will be breakfasting on it every morning and, while I do, I will be reading and watching and praying for things to get better (can these people \u003cem>please\u003c/em> get a break once in a while?) in Haiti.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 unripe (green) plantain\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large or two small, ripe yellow bananas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can (12 oz.) of evaporated milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 can (12 oz.) of coconut milk (or 1 cup whole milk)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 whole star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A pinch of grated nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A heavy pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ light or dark brown sugar (white sugar will work, too)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ teaspoon grated lime zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More dark brown sugar and lime zest for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a blender, purée plantain, banana, and water until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Place purée into a medium sized, heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil over low to medium heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add evaporated and coconut milks, lime zest, sugar, star anise, nutmeg, salt, and cinnamon sticks. Bring again to a boil and reduce to a simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent any burning. The texture should less like oatmeal and more like Cream of Wheat. Turn off heat and stir in vanilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. This can be eaten hot or cold. Garnish with a sprinkle of dark brown sugar and lime zest.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/the-princess-sapphire.jpg\" alt=\"the princess sapphire\" title=\"the princess sapphire\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9670\">\u003cbr>\nNormally I spend my winter holiday season with visions of sugar plums dancing in my head. Homemade gingerbread and sugar cookies sit on a counter already crowded with pumpkin bread and \u003ca href=\"http://i.ehow.com/images/a02/27/mj/struffola-easy-steps-200X200.jpg\">struffola\u003c/a>; my mom and I debate the merits of popovers versus Yorkshire pudding; and a medley of Christmas movies -- from \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0047673/\">White Christmas\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0319343/\">Elf \u003c/a>-- play in the background. But this year, the week of Christmas was a little different as my family and I spent our time with nary a Christmas cookie in sight. Instead, we lounged on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.princess.com/learn/ships/sa/index.html\">Princess Sapphire\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now we are not, by any stretch of the imagination, cruisers. As I mentioned in last week's post on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/07/marisma-fish-tacos/\">Marisma Fish Tacos\u003c/a>, my Christmas holiday vacation was a family obligation. I realize there are people out there who will think I'm an ungrateful whiner. That during a time when an icy winter cold front barrels across the country, and people everywhere are fantasizing about Mexico, I do nothing but carp about my time aboard a luxury liner sailing toward that destination. My response to those people is simply to say -- different strokes for different folks. Cruising is not my stroke. For one thing, I was a bit seasick the first few days. I was also appalled by the number of \u003ca href=\"http://radiopatriot.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/glenn-beck2.jpg\">Glenn Beck\u003c/a> books I saw people reading. That, plus the bombardment of Mariah Carey and her brethren from speakers discreetly placed throughout the ship almost did me in. Yet I could have handled the many small annoyances if I hadn't been so overwhelmed by the onslaught of underwhelming food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food on a cruise ship comes in many different shapes and forms and from a variety of locations. For the most part, the food is free (well, it's included in your passage price), and other than soda and alcohol, plus a couple of restaurants that charge a moderate fee for a finer dining experience, you can graze to your heart's content (or detriment) at no additional cost. There are large buffet areas with everything from tri tip and beef pot pies to Indian curries and salad bars. Near the pool on the Lido deck sits a pizza and hamburger counter, an ice cream and smoothie stand, and a regular mixed drink bar. There are then numerous other bars set throughout the ship, plus six or seven sit-down restaurants. You can even have food delivered to your room. Basically, it's impossible to starve on a cruise ship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you go on a cruise, however, you must relinquish any expectations to eat local, organic or sustainably-produced food. These simply do not exist in the cruising world. All the meat is corn-fed, endangered fish is bandied about like it was 1950, and spring vegetables sit in all their glory on your December plate. So forgo any high-minded expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you will find instead are masses of edibles laid out in every corner of your floating world. I have never seen such an abundance of food. Daily I was encountered with enormous buffets filled with steak, breaded shrimp, cheeses, breads, puddings, and cakes of all kinds. As I walked through this menagerie of high cholesterol, a parade of humanity -- from the very young to the almost ancient -- jostled past in their individual quests to fill their plates. Grown men in their 50s piled so much shrimp cocktail on 9 x 13\" plates that they overflowed. Small children skipped the fruit section entirely, and often the actual entrées, instead loading their platters with cakes and cookies. And chubby people everywhere stood in line at the prime rib counter, asking for extra helpings of gravy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was in no way immune. After choosing six shrimp one afternoon, I looked around, saw the heaping helpings all around me, and then added a few more shrimp to my plate. \"Why not?\" I thought, even though I would have never taken that many at home. At breakfast, I decided to get a sunny-side-up egg PLUS a bagel with salmon and cream cheese PLUS sausage PLUS a yogurt. How could I resist? There was nothing else to do. I started to wonder if the clever folks at Pixar modeled \u003ca href=\"http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/pixar/images/0/06/Wall-E&EVE_AXIOM.jpg\">the Axiom\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"http://www.pixar.com/featurefilms/walle/\">WALL-E\u003c/a> on a cruise ship. The similarities are uncanny: large people lounging in chairs all day, unremittingly consuming from dawn to bedtime while staff sweep and serve around them. Red is the new blue! Shrimp cocktail for everyone!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully some sanity with proportions was found in the sit-down restaurants, which is where we dined most evenings. The helpings there were more moderate. The restaurants on the ship all serve the same daily menus, with each dining location adding its own specialty dish. Standard dinner fare included mignonettes --- the wait staff told us these were like little filet mignons although I'm pretty sure they weren't cut from the tenderloin -- with potatoes; fish in various types of cream sauces; pork chops with baked apples and sweet potatoes; and usually something more exotic like duck à l'orange. On New Year's Eve, everyone--and I mean everyone--had lobster. The quality of the food was equivalent to what you'd find at a mid-level hotel: under-seasoned, a bit dry, and trying too hard. Not horrible, but also nothing memorable. The most disappointing course was the dessert. The best cakes were simply okay, while others verged on spit-into-a-napkin horrible. We learned to stick with the ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think what amazed me most was the communal sense of gratuitous gluttony for food I found barely edible. Sure, there was a ton to eat, but nothing was singular. The presence of quantity seemed to make everyone lose sight of the absence of quality. But in a country where Olive Gardens and Red Lobsters -- known for their all you can eat bread sticks and shrimp -- are putting small restaurants out of business, should I really be surprised? A testament to how depressing this all was is the fact that I did not take any pictures of the food other than the fish tacos at Marisma. I am normally pretty obsessive about photographing my meals, yet during an entire week on the Princess Sapphire, I couldn't muster up the energy to take one picture. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/the-princess-sapphire.jpg\" alt=\"the princess sapphire\" title=\"the princess sapphire\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9670\">\u003cbr>\nNormally I spend my winter holiday season with visions of sugar plums dancing in my head. Homemade gingerbread and sugar cookies sit on a counter already crowded with pumpkin bread and \u003ca href=\"http://i.ehow.com/images/a02/27/mj/struffola-easy-steps-200X200.jpg\">struffola\u003c/a>; my mom and I debate the merits of popovers versus Yorkshire pudding; and a medley of Christmas movies -- from \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0047673/\">White Christmas\u003c/a> to \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0319343/\">Elf \u003c/a>-- play in the background. But this year, the week of Christmas was a little different as my family and I spent our time with nary a Christmas cookie in sight. Instead, we lounged on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.princess.com/learn/ships/sa/index.html\">Princess Sapphire\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now we are not, by any stretch of the imagination, cruisers. As I mentioned in last week's post on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/07/marisma-fish-tacos/\">Marisma Fish Tacos\u003c/a>, my Christmas holiday vacation was a family obligation. I realize there are people out there who will think I'm an ungrateful whiner. That during a time when an icy winter cold front barrels across the country, and people everywhere are fantasizing about Mexico, I do nothing but carp about my time aboard a luxury liner sailing toward that destination. My response to those people is simply to say -- different strokes for different folks. Cruising is not my stroke. For one thing, I was a bit seasick the first few days. I was also appalled by the number of \u003ca href=\"http://radiopatriot.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/glenn-beck2.jpg\">Glenn Beck\u003c/a> books I saw people reading. That, plus the bombardment of Mariah Carey and her brethren from speakers discreetly placed throughout the ship almost did me in. Yet I could have handled the many small annoyances if I hadn't been so overwhelmed by the onslaught of underwhelming food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food on a cruise ship comes in many different shapes and forms and from a variety of locations. For the most part, the food is free (well, it's included in your passage price), and other than soda and alcohol, plus a couple of restaurants that charge a moderate fee for a finer dining experience, you can graze to your heart's content (or detriment) at no additional cost. There are large buffet areas with everything from tri tip and beef pot pies to Indian curries and salad bars. Near the pool on the Lido deck sits a pizza and hamburger counter, an ice cream and smoothie stand, and a regular mixed drink bar. There are then numerous other bars set throughout the ship, plus six or seven sit-down restaurants. You can even have food delivered to your room. Basically, it's impossible to starve on a cruise ship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you go on a cruise, however, you must relinquish any expectations to eat local, organic or sustainably-produced food. These simply do not exist in the cruising world. All the meat is corn-fed, endangered fish is bandied about like it was 1950, and spring vegetables sit in all their glory on your December plate. So forgo any high-minded expectations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What you will find instead are masses of edibles laid out in every corner of your floating world. I have never seen such an abundance of food. Daily I was encountered with enormous buffets filled with steak, breaded shrimp, cheeses, breads, puddings, and cakes of all kinds. As I walked through this menagerie of high cholesterol, a parade of humanity -- from the very young to the almost ancient -- jostled past in their individual quests to fill their plates. Grown men in their 50s piled so much shrimp cocktail on 9 x 13\" plates that they overflowed. Small children skipped the fruit section entirely, and often the actual entrées, instead loading their platters with cakes and cookies. And chubby people everywhere stood in line at the prime rib counter, asking for extra helpings of gravy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was in no way immune. After choosing six shrimp one afternoon, I looked around, saw the heaping helpings all around me, and then added a few more shrimp to my plate. \"Why not?\" I thought, even though I would have never taken that many at home. At breakfast, I decided to get a sunny-side-up egg PLUS a bagel with salmon and cream cheese PLUS sausage PLUS a yogurt. How could I resist? There was nothing else to do. I started to wonder if the clever folks at Pixar modeled \u003ca href=\"http://images2.wikia.nocookie.net/pixar/images/0/06/Wall-E&EVE_AXIOM.jpg\">the Axiom\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"http://www.pixar.com/featurefilms/walle/\">WALL-E\u003c/a> on a cruise ship. The similarities are uncanny: large people lounging in chairs all day, unremittingly consuming from dawn to bedtime while staff sweep and serve around them. Red is the new blue! Shrimp cocktail for everyone!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thankfully some sanity with proportions was found in the sit-down restaurants, which is where we dined most evenings. The helpings there were more moderate. The restaurants on the ship all serve the same daily menus, with each dining location adding its own specialty dish. Standard dinner fare included mignonettes --- the wait staff told us these were like little filet mignons although I'm pretty sure they weren't cut from the tenderloin -- with potatoes; fish in various types of cream sauces; pork chops with baked apples and sweet potatoes; and usually something more exotic like duck à l'orange. On New Year's Eve, everyone--and I mean everyone--had lobster. The quality of the food was equivalent to what you'd find at a mid-level hotel: under-seasoned, a bit dry, and trying too hard. Not horrible, but also nothing memorable. The most disappointing course was the dessert. The best cakes were simply okay, while others verged on spit-into-a-napkin horrible. We learned to stick with the ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think what amazed me most was the communal sense of gratuitous gluttony for food I found barely edible. Sure, there was a ton to eat, but nothing was singular. The presence of quantity seemed to make everyone lose sight of the absence of quality. But in a country where Olive Gardens and Red Lobsters -- known for their all you can eat bread sticks and shrimp -- are putting small restaurants out of business, should I really be surprised? A testament to how depressing this all was is the fact that I did not take any pictures of the food other than the fish tacos at Marisma. I am normally pretty obsessive about photographing my meals, yet during an entire week on the Princess Sapphire, I couldn't muster up the energy to take one picture. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Chinese-White-Cut-Chicken-013.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese White Cut Chicken\" title=\"Chinese White Cut Chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9667\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>White Cut Chicken (bok cheet gai) with Ginger-Scallion Oil, Cantonese comfort food \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite things about Chinese home cooking is that it is often incredibly simplistic. Just a few ingredients, clean, vibrant flavors, and no fussiness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe for poached chicken with ginger-scallion oil is one of my staple dishes when I feel the need to recharge. Served over a bowl of steaming jasmine rice, it is pure comfort and nourishment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see this dish at a lot of Chinese wedding banquets or New Year celebrations. As is customary for many Chinese foods, there is a special symbolism to this dish. The white chicken symbolizes happiness and purity, and if it is served whole, it symbolizes family as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am always surprised at how flavorful this chicken is, considering all you're doing is boiling it. However, the combination of the salt rub and the salted water infused with ginger and garlic must make one phenomenal Jacuzzi bath, because something wonderful happens to that chicken. The meat becomes tender and juicy, and the sesame oil massage adds a warm, nutty fragrance to the skin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dipping sauce of minced scallion, minced and grated ginger, salt, and vegetable oil is the finishing touch. The secret to this sauce is heating the oil so that the ginger and scallion bloom with aromatic bliss. Spoon this all over some fluffy white rice, now it's your turn to reach bliss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Added Bonus:\u003c/em> Save the poaching liquid (removing any scum off the surface) and the chicken carcass to make a fantastic chicken stock. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chinese White Cut Chicken (\u003cem>Bok Cheet Gai\u003c/em>) with Ginger-Scallion Oil\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 whole chicken, 4-5 pounds\u003cbr>\n3-4 big chunks of ginger (1-inch thick), peeled and smashed\u003cbr>\n6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Kosher salt, plus more to season the chicken\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dipping Sauce:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons scallion, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon ginger, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon ginger, grated (a Microplane is perfect for this)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n½ cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tClean the chicken inside and out, removing any innards, and pat it dry. Rub salt liberally inside and out. Allow it to sit for 1 hour.\u003cbr>\n2.\tFill a large pot with water full enough to cover at least ¾ of the chicken. Bring the water to a boil with the smashed ginger, garlic, and 2 tablespoons of salt. Place the chicken in breast side up, cover, and bring to a boil. Switch it to low heat and let cook for 45 minutes.\u003cbr>\n3.\tFlip the chicken, cover it and cook on low heat for another 45 minutes.\u003cbr>\n4.\tTo test if the chicken is done, insert a chopstick near the thigh. If it goes in and there is no pinkness, it’s done. To lift the bird out of the pot, slip 2 chopsticks beneath the wings and lift up.\u003cbr>\n5.\tPat the bird dry and rub with the sesame oil. Allow it to cool for 30 minutes before cutting. Serve with dipping sauce.\u003cbr>\n6.\tPrepare the dipping sauce by heating the vegetable oil just until it starts to smoke. Pour it over the scallion, ginger, and salt, and mix together. Serve with the chicken immediately.\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "You see this dish at a lot of Chinese wedding banquets or New Year celebrations. As is customary for many Chinese foods, there is a special symbolism to this dish. The white chicken symbolizes happiness and purity, and if it is served whole, it symbolizes family as well.",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Chinese-White-Cut-Chicken-013.jpg\" alt=\"Chinese White Cut Chicken\" title=\"Chinese White Cut Chicken\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9667\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>White Cut Chicken (bok cheet gai) with Ginger-Scallion Oil, Cantonese comfort food \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite things about Chinese home cooking is that it is often incredibly simplistic. Just a few ingredients, clean, vibrant flavors, and no fussiness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This recipe for poached chicken with ginger-scallion oil is one of my staple dishes when I feel the need to recharge. Served over a bowl of steaming jasmine rice, it is pure comfort and nourishment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You see this dish at a lot of Chinese wedding banquets or New Year celebrations. As is customary for many Chinese foods, there is a special symbolism to this dish. The white chicken symbolizes happiness and purity, and if it is served whole, it symbolizes family as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am always surprised at how flavorful this chicken is, considering all you're doing is boiling it. However, the combination of the salt rub and the salted water infused with ginger and garlic must make one phenomenal Jacuzzi bath, because something wonderful happens to that chicken. The meat becomes tender and juicy, and the sesame oil massage adds a warm, nutty fragrance to the skin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dipping sauce of minced scallion, minced and grated ginger, salt, and vegetable oil is the finishing touch. The secret to this sauce is heating the oil so that the ginger and scallion bloom with aromatic bliss. Spoon this all over some fluffy white rice, now it's your turn to reach bliss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Added Bonus:\u003c/em> Save the poaching liquid (removing any scum off the surface) and the chicken carcass to make a fantastic chicken stock. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chinese White Cut Chicken (\u003cem>Bok Cheet Gai\u003c/em>) with Ginger-Scallion Oil\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 4-6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 whole chicken, 4-5 pounds\u003cbr>\n3-4 big chunks of ginger (1-inch thick), peeled and smashed\u003cbr>\n6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons Kosher salt, plus more to season the chicken\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dipping Sauce:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons scallion, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon ginger, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon ginger, grated (a Microplane is perfect for this)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n½ cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tClean the chicken inside and out, removing any innards, and pat it dry. Rub salt liberally inside and out. Allow it to sit for 1 hour.\u003cbr>\n2.\tFill a large pot with water full enough to cover at least ¾ of the chicken. Bring the water to a boil with the smashed ginger, garlic, and 2 tablespoons of salt. Place the chicken in breast side up, cover, and bring to a boil. Switch it to low heat and let cook for 45 minutes.\u003cbr>\n3.\tFlip the chicken, cover it and cook on low heat for another 45 minutes.\u003cbr>\n4.\tTo test if the chicken is done, insert a chopstick near the thigh. If it goes in and there is no pinkness, it’s done. To lift the bird out of the pot, slip 2 chopsticks beneath the wings and lift up.\u003cbr>\n5.\tPat the bird dry and rub with the sesame oil. Allow it to cool for 30 minutes before cutting. Serve with dipping sauce.\u003cbr>\n6.\tPrepare the dipping sauce by heating the vegetable oil just until it starts to smoke. Pour it over the scallion, ginger, and salt, and mix together. Serve with the chicken immediately.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Saying Goodbye, Sol Food Style",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/solfood.jpg\" alt=\"Sol Food- Puerto Rican food done right\" title=\"Sol Food- Puerto Rican food done right\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9611\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>San Rafael's Sol Food: Puerto Rican food done right\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time this post is published, I will have packed up a 14-food U-haul, probably strained my lower back, and sweated up and down five flights of stairs (no mom, there's no elevator) as I schlep my life's belongings into a little apartment in Alamo Square Park. I'm unspeakably excited about moving from San Rafael to the city; truthfully, this was all supposed to happen a year ago. But you know how things don't always go as planned. So as folks were busy making New Years resolutions and goals for the coming year ahead, I've been taking a moment to reflect on living in Marin and what I'll miss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now there's a big part of me that feels like this list is quite small. I'll be honest: I haven't been the most vocal member of Marin's fan club. In fact, I never even joined. Socially, I'm generally the youngest one at any given location by a good twenty years. I'm not raising kids, and I'm in a pretty darn low tax bracket so that makes me the exception. And heck, I often like to eat dinner after 9 p.m. Suffice it to say, I've learned to eat earlier. Not only can you not get a decent burger after the sun sets, you can barely get a gallon of milk or sack of flour. The place shuts down. However, San Rafael has a lot going for it, too. I loved getting to know all of the hiking trails with my mom's two dogs. West Marin is a quick, awesome getaway where life feels slower and somehow more conscious and deliberate. It's generally easy to park in Marin, I love my consignment store, and can't get enough of the Fairfax Scoop in the summers. And of course, you can get the best Puerto Rican food in the Bay Area. I'll miss all of those things, especially the latter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you haven't been to Sol Food, it's owned by Sol Hernandez, an enterprising San Rafael native who decided to bring Puerto Rican food to Marin. She lived on the island for quite awhile with her boyfriend and his mother and spent her free time learning how to cook the local dishes. The original Sol Food is a tiny little outpost on the corner of 4th and Lincoln in San Rafael. There aren't any formal indoor tables although there are stools by the window and up by the counter. When I first started hitting up the authentic eatery, I could just stroll in, order, and be on my way. Now I rarely go to this location because it's always obscenely crowded, and I can usually find seating at the other location right away. Locals differentiate between the two in size, calling the original location on 4th Street \"the small one\" and the newer location on Lincoln Avenue \"the big one.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of which one you choose, Sol has successfully created two restaurant spaces that look and feel like Puerto Rico: colorful shutters and chairs, green plantains holding down stacks of napkins, and big leafy plants gracing every inch of usable counter space. Loud, lively music streams throughout the bustling cafe, and one of the things I love the most are the communal tables (at the larger location). Here, you may be seated next to a teacher grading papers, an older man reading the paper, gossipy college students, and tattoo artists from down the street. There aren't a lot of places around Marin where young and old, conservative and raucous, come together and chat over pink beans and rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/signaturesolfood.jpg\" alt=\"Sol Food housemade hot sauce and decorative shuttered interior\" title=\"Sol Food housemade hot sauce and decorative shuttered interior\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9613\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Two of Sol Food's signatures: their infamous housemade hot sauce and decorative shuttered interior\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the food: Everything on the menu is delicious, from the Maduros (sweet fried yellow plantains) to the Bistec or Cubano sandwiches. I was a vegetarian for the first few years that I lived in San Rafael and I'd come to Sol Food often to get a side of beans. It's the best deal in town, and still my go-to meal when I'm in a hurry or want a light lunch. For a mere $3.95, you get a generous portion of pink beans, half an avocado, and a plantain of your choosing. It's delicious, it's cheap, and it's made with local and organic ingredients. Can't beat that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/polloalhorno.jpg\" alt=\"Pollo Al Horno\" title=\"Pollo Al Horno\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9612\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>My favorite Sol Food dish, Pollo Al Horno\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today though, I generally rely on the Pollo Al Horno: boneless, skinless organic chicken thighs marinated with oregano and lots of garlic. It's served with an organic salad, plantains, and rice and beans. If someone could teach me how to make chicken this juicy and flavorful, I'm not sure I'd eat anything else. Ever again. Their daily specials are something to organize your week around (check online for information). Mondays are my day of choice with the Arroz Con Picadillo, seasoned ground beef over rice served with beans, fresh avocado, fried plantain, and greens. Picadillo is a traditional dish in many Latin American countries and is often served with rice or used as a filling in tacos or empanadas. It sounds basic--kind of like you could whip it up at home. But you can't. I assure you. The beef is spicy and has a kick of vinegar, garlic and onion. Head over on a Monday and you can see what I mean. Order a Fizzie Lizzie, their Cafe Helado (sweetened iced espresso with milk served in a mason jar), or a coconut water to wash it all down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while I can't wait to live in a neighborhood where I can get a slice of pizza into the wee hours and where there will be more than two other people my age walking down the street (I'm kidding...sort of), I'm grateful that San Rafael's just a skip away. My mom lives here, so I'll come back to hike with her dogs, throw in load of laundry every now and then, catch up on Dexter, and get my fill of pink beans and rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.solfoodrestaurant.com/\">Sol Food Restaurant\u003c/a> (Small One/Original)\u003cbr>\n732 4th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\n(415) 451-4765\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours\u003c/strong>: Sun.-Thurs. 7am-12am; Fri. 7am-2am; Sat. 8am-2am\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.solfoodrestaurant.com/\">Sol Food Restaurant\u003c/a> (Big One)\u003cbr>\n901 Lincoln Avenue\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\n(415) 451-4765 (same number as above)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Daily from 11am-10pm\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/solfood.jpg\" alt=\"Sol Food- Puerto Rican food done right\" title=\"Sol Food- Puerto Rican food done right\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9611\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>San Rafael's Sol Food: Puerto Rican food done right\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time this post is published, I will have packed up a 14-food U-haul, probably strained my lower back, and sweated up and down five flights of stairs (no mom, there's no elevator) as I schlep my life's belongings into a little apartment in Alamo Square Park. I'm unspeakably excited about moving from San Rafael to the city; truthfully, this was all supposed to happen a year ago. But you know how things don't always go as planned. So as folks were busy making New Years resolutions and goals for the coming year ahead, I've been taking a moment to reflect on living in Marin and what I'll miss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now there's a big part of me that feels like this list is quite small. I'll be honest: I haven't been the most vocal member of Marin's fan club. In fact, I never even joined. Socially, I'm generally the youngest one at any given location by a good twenty years. I'm not raising kids, and I'm in a pretty darn low tax bracket so that makes me the exception. And heck, I often like to eat dinner after 9 p.m. Suffice it to say, I've learned to eat earlier. Not only can you not get a decent burger after the sun sets, you can barely get a gallon of milk or sack of flour. The place shuts down. However, San Rafael has a lot going for it, too. I loved getting to know all of the hiking trails with my mom's two dogs. West Marin is a quick, awesome getaway where life feels slower and somehow more conscious and deliberate. It's generally easy to park in Marin, I love my consignment store, and can't get enough of the Fairfax Scoop in the summers. And of course, you can get the best Puerto Rican food in the Bay Area. I'll miss all of those things, especially the latter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you haven't been to Sol Food, it's owned by Sol Hernandez, an enterprising San Rafael native who decided to bring Puerto Rican food to Marin. She lived on the island for quite awhile with her boyfriend and his mother and spent her free time learning how to cook the local dishes. The original Sol Food is a tiny little outpost on the corner of 4th and Lincoln in San Rafael. There aren't any formal indoor tables although there are stools by the window and up by the counter. When I first started hitting up the authentic eatery, I could just stroll in, order, and be on my way. Now I rarely go to this location because it's always obscenely crowded, and I can usually find seating at the other location right away. Locals differentiate between the two in size, calling the original location on 4th Street \"the small one\" and the newer location on Lincoln Avenue \"the big one.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of which one you choose, Sol has successfully created two restaurant spaces that look and feel like Puerto Rico: colorful shutters and chairs, green plantains holding down stacks of napkins, and big leafy plants gracing every inch of usable counter space. Loud, lively music streams throughout the bustling cafe, and one of the things I love the most are the communal tables (at the larger location). Here, you may be seated next to a teacher grading papers, an older man reading the paper, gossipy college students, and tattoo artists from down the street. There aren't a lot of places around Marin where young and old, conservative and raucous, come together and chat over pink beans and rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/signaturesolfood.jpg\" alt=\"Sol Food housemade hot sauce and decorative shuttered interior\" title=\"Sol Food housemade hot sauce and decorative shuttered interior\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9613\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Two of Sol Food's signatures: their infamous housemade hot sauce and decorative shuttered interior\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, the food: Everything on the menu is delicious, from the Maduros (sweet fried yellow plantains) to the Bistec or Cubano sandwiches. I was a vegetarian for the first few years that I lived in San Rafael and I'd come to Sol Food often to get a side of beans. It's the best deal in town, and still my go-to meal when I'm in a hurry or want a light lunch. For a mere $3.95, you get a generous portion of pink beans, half an avocado, and a plantain of your choosing. It's delicious, it's cheap, and it's made with local and organic ingredients. Can't beat that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/polloalhorno.jpg\" alt=\"Pollo Al Horno\" title=\"Pollo Al Horno\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9612\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>My favorite Sol Food dish, Pollo Al Horno\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today though, I generally rely on the Pollo Al Horno: boneless, skinless organic chicken thighs marinated with oregano and lots of garlic. It's served with an organic salad, plantains, and rice and beans. If someone could teach me how to make chicken this juicy and flavorful, I'm not sure I'd eat anything else. Ever again. Their daily specials are something to organize your week around (check online for information). Mondays are my day of choice with the Arroz Con Picadillo, seasoned ground beef over rice served with beans, fresh avocado, fried plantain, and greens. Picadillo is a traditional dish in many Latin American countries and is often served with rice or used as a filling in tacos or empanadas. It sounds basic--kind of like you could whip it up at home. But you can't. I assure you. The beef is spicy and has a kick of vinegar, garlic and onion. Head over on a Monday and you can see what I mean. Order a Fizzie Lizzie, their Cafe Helado (sweetened iced espresso with milk served in a mason jar), or a coconut water to wash it all down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So while I can't wait to live in a neighborhood where I can get a slice of pizza into the wee hours and where there will be more than two other people my age walking down the street (I'm kidding...sort of), I'm grateful that San Rafael's just a skip away. My mom lives here, so I'll come back to hike with her dogs, throw in load of laundry every now and then, catch up on Dexter, and get my fill of pink beans and rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.solfoodrestaurant.com/\">Sol Food Restaurant\u003c/a> (Small One/Original)\u003cbr>\n732 4th Street\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\n(415) 451-4765\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours\u003c/strong>: Sun.-Thurs. 7am-12am; Fri. 7am-2am; Sat. 8am-2am\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.solfoodrestaurant.com/\">Sol Food Restaurant\u003c/a> (Big One)\u003cbr>\n901 Lincoln Avenue\u003cbr>\nSan Rafael, CA 94901\u003cbr>\n(415) 451-4765 (same number as above)\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Daily from 11am-10pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/bread500a.jpg\" alt=\"Multi-Grain bread\" title=\"Multi-Grain bread\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9596\">\u003cbr>\nWhy bake bread when you live in Bay Area? Acme, Della Fattoria, Grace, Brickmaiden, Thorough Bread, and Tartine (to name just a few favorites) all ply their trade around here, kneading and rising and selling their wares at storefront bakeries and supermarkets, gourmet stores and farmers' markets. Just as you can usually pick up a decent bottle of wine or a six-pack of microbrew at even a dumpy corner bodega here, so you don't have to go far to score a pretty excellent loaf of bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, yes, I'm grateful to all the dedicated professional bakers out there. But sometimes I don't \u003cem>want\u003c/em> the hard-crusted, rip-and-tug Euro-styled country loaf that has become our city's default daily bread. Sometimes, my jam and I want a slice that's a little more dense and mellow, something without gaping jelly-dripping holes, something whose crumb is worth chewing. A bread that holds up to slicing and toasting. A butter-and-honey bread, a bread for peanut butter and banana sandwiches, in short, a bread that you can only have if you make it yourself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there are perfectly nice, widely available loaf breads out there. Vital Vittles makes a bunch, as does Alvarado Street Bakery. But somehow, pre-sliced bread twist-tied in a plastic bag always feels a little soulless to me, no matter how many wheat berries and sunflower seeds are found within. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is nothing like the smell of homemade bread to perfume your house on a winter's day, and nothing like the taste of it, either. And any invitation—to dinner, to teatime, to dinner that you hope will be followed by breakfast—is sweetened by the nonchalant appearance of bread baked by your very own hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before you laugh hollowly, contemplating your overscheduled life with no room for rising in it, I say, the cool, slow, low-yeast rise is your friend, my busy pal. Most bread recipes call for way too much yeast and heat. Why? Because a dough loaded up with yeast, like a Long Island Iced Tea or a turbo-charged vibrator, gets the job done faster. But the point here is the product, not how fast you can get there. A bread that rises slowly is a bread that tastes of grain, not yeast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, slowing down the time it takes for your bread to go from dough to loaf frees you up. A long, cool rise is actually much easier to manage, because you can leave the house for hours at a time and get all manner of things done while your dough is slowly inching up in the bowl. Plus, you have a lot more wiggle room. Since the rise goes slowly, it takes a lot longer to get to the threat-of-collapse stage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that the average drafty Victorian is fairly cool, even with the hallway heater on, a bowl of dough left on the kitchen counter will probably take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours to double in size. And if things (playdates, the line at the DMV, prime makeout opportunities) get away from you, you can always punch it down and let it go for a second rise before shaping it into loaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In general, it's pretty hard to screw this bread up. Once you make it a few times, you won't even need to measure; as long as the proportions are roughly the same, precision isn't necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one bread-killer is overheating the yeast; yeast dies outright at 140 degrees F, and doesn't much like temps over 120 degrees. So, make sure to dissolve your yeast in tepid water (drip some on your wrist; it should feel just about skin temperature, neither hot nor cold) and make sure that the cereal goop has cooled to barely lukewarm before you stir in the flour and yeast. (Stir the mix thoroughly to make sure there are no pockets of heat remaining before you add the yeast.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, because I like a slow rise, I use ordinary active dry yeast, not rapid-rise or instant yeast. And speaking of yeast, it seems a lot of people worry about the viability of their yeast. Unless you bought it 10 years ago or have kept it stashed right over the stove, it's fine. Most jars or foil-sealed packets of yeast are good for a year or more at room temperature, even more if stored in the freezer or fridge. In decades of bread baking, the only bad yeast experience I've ever had has been with Rize Organic Yeast. In the 2 or 3 times I've tried this brand, it has never risen for me, leaving me with leaden lumps of useless dough. With the readily available Red Star and Fleischmann's brands, no problems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, this bread is the best use I know for that multi-grain, steel-cut hot cereal mix you find in the bulk bins at Rainbow Grocery or Berkeley Bowl. The texture depends on the nubbly chunkiness of the mix, so don't substitute powdery instant or quick-cooking cereal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Easy Multi-Grain Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could also make a vegan version by substituting vegetable oil or Earth Balance (the kind that comes in sticks, not in a tub) for the butter, and agave, maple, or brown-rice syrup for the honey. Molasses works too, although it will add a more prominent flavor to the finished loaf. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 cup multi-grain hot cereal blend (not instant)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dry polenta\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups boiling water\u003cbr>\n1 packet active dry yeast (2 tsp)\u003cbr>\n1 cup rye flour\u003cbr>\n3 to 3 1/2 cups white flour (or a mix of whole wheat and white flour)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a large bowl, combine cereal, polenta, butter, salt, and honey. Pour in boiling water and stir to combine. Set aside to cool, which will probably take about 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When mixture has cooled to lukewarm, it's time to get your yeast ready. Sprinkle yeast over 3 tablespoons of tepid water in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat rye flour into cereal mixture. Stir in yeast, then add white and/or whole wheat flour, 1 cup at a time. Dough should be soft and sticky, but not so goopy that your hands turn into big gooey dough-paws when you try to knead it. Every batch will be different, depending on the humidity of the air and the moisture in your flour, but start with 3 cups, and save the remaining half-cup to sprinkle in as necessary while you knead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. If you can, let dough rest for 10 minutes before kneading. This helps the flour begin absorbing the liquid in the dough, so you won't have to add so much extra flour to make it manageable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Push the dough away from you with the heels of your hands. Fold it over towards you. Turn it a quarter turn to the right, and repeat. Push, fold, turn, for about 10 minutes, adding small sprinkles of flour as needed to keep it from getting unbearably sticky. When well-kneaded, it should feel like a relaxed inner thigh, or a lady's un-Pilatized stomach. (If naked ladies aren't your frame of reference, a man's torso will do just fine, but imagine more bear than buff.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Drop the dough back in the bowl and cover with a damp towel. Let rise, preferably at around 70-75 degrees, for 3 to 5 hours, until doubled in bulk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Press down gently to get all the air out. Divide in half and shape into two round loaves. Set on a lightly greased or parchment-covered baking sheet and let rise until doubled in size, anywhere from 2 to 3 hours, possibly more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until crust is well-browned. To avoid gumminess, let cool on a rack for at least an hour before you tear into it. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Sometimes, you don't want the hard-crusted, rip-and-tug Euro-styled country loaf that's become the city's default daily bread. Sometimes, you and your jam want a bread that holds up to slicing and toasting, a bread without gaping jelly-dripping holes, ready for butter and honey or peanut butter and banana sandwiches, in short, a bread you can only have if you make it yourself. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/bread500a.jpg\" alt=\"Multi-Grain bread\" title=\"Multi-Grain bread\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9596\">\u003cbr>\nWhy bake bread when you live in Bay Area? Acme, Della Fattoria, Grace, Brickmaiden, Thorough Bread, and Tartine (to name just a few favorites) all ply their trade around here, kneading and rising and selling their wares at storefront bakeries and supermarkets, gourmet stores and farmers' markets. Just as you can usually pick up a decent bottle of wine or a six-pack of microbrew at even a dumpy corner bodega here, so you don't have to go far to score a pretty excellent loaf of bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, yes, I'm grateful to all the dedicated professional bakers out there. But sometimes I don't \u003cem>want\u003c/em> the hard-crusted, rip-and-tug Euro-styled country loaf that has become our city's default daily bread. Sometimes, my jam and I want a slice that's a little more dense and mellow, something without gaping jelly-dripping holes, something whose crumb is worth chewing. A bread that holds up to slicing and toasting. A butter-and-honey bread, a bread for peanut butter and banana sandwiches, in short, a bread that you can only have if you make it yourself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there are perfectly nice, widely available loaf breads out there. Vital Vittles makes a bunch, as does Alvarado Street Bakery. But somehow, pre-sliced bread twist-tied in a plastic bag always feels a little soulless to me, no matter how many wheat berries and sunflower seeds are found within. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is nothing like the smell of homemade bread to perfume your house on a winter's day, and nothing like the taste of it, either. And any invitation—to dinner, to teatime, to dinner that you hope will be followed by breakfast—is sweetened by the nonchalant appearance of bread baked by your very own hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But before you laugh hollowly, contemplating your overscheduled life with no room for rising in it, I say, the cool, slow, low-yeast rise is your friend, my busy pal. Most bread recipes call for way too much yeast and heat. Why? Because a dough loaded up with yeast, like a Long Island Iced Tea or a turbo-charged vibrator, gets the job done faster. But the point here is the product, not how fast you can get there. A bread that rises slowly is a bread that tastes of grain, not yeast. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, slowing down the time it takes for your bread to go from dough to loaf frees you up. A long, cool rise is actually much easier to manage, because you can leave the house for hours at a time and get all manner of things done while your dough is slowly inching up in the bowl. Plus, you have a lot more wiggle room. Since the rise goes slowly, it takes a lot longer to get to the threat-of-collapse stage. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given that the average drafty Victorian is fairly cool, even with the hallway heater on, a bowl of dough left on the kitchen counter will probably take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours to double in size. And if things (playdates, the line at the DMV, prime makeout opportunities) get away from you, you can always punch it down and let it go for a second rise before shaping it into loaves. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In general, it's pretty hard to screw this bread up. Once you make it a few times, you won't even need to measure; as long as the proportions are roughly the same, precision isn't necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The one bread-killer is overheating the yeast; yeast dies outright at 140 degrees F, and doesn't much like temps over 120 degrees. So, make sure to dissolve your yeast in tepid water (drip some on your wrist; it should feel just about skin temperature, neither hot nor cold) and make sure that the cereal goop has cooled to barely lukewarm before you stir in the flour and yeast. (Stir the mix thoroughly to make sure there are no pockets of heat remaining before you add the yeast.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Again, because I like a slow rise, I use ordinary active dry yeast, not rapid-rise or instant yeast. And speaking of yeast, it seems a lot of people worry about the viability of their yeast. Unless you bought it 10 years ago or have kept it stashed right over the stove, it's fine. Most jars or foil-sealed packets of yeast are good for a year or more at room temperature, even more if stored in the freezer or fridge. In decades of bread baking, the only bad yeast experience I've ever had has been with Rize Organic Yeast. In the 2 or 3 times I've tried this brand, it has never risen for me, leaving me with leaden lumps of useless dough. With the readily available Red Star and Fleischmann's brands, no problems. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, this bread is the best use I know for that multi-grain, steel-cut hot cereal mix you find in the bulk bins at Rainbow Grocery or Berkeley Bowl. The texture depends on the nubbly chunkiness of the mix, so don't substitute powdery instant or quick-cooking cereal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Easy Multi-Grain Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could also make a vegan version by substituting vegetable oil or Earth Balance (the kind that comes in sticks, not in a tub) for the butter, and agave, maple, or brown-rice syrup for the honey. Molasses works too, although it will add a more prominent flavor to the finished loaf. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nIngredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 cup multi-grain hot cereal blend (not instant)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dry polenta\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp honey\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups boiling water\u003cbr>\n1 packet active dry yeast (2 tsp)\u003cbr>\n1 cup rye flour\u003cbr>\n3 to 3 1/2 cups white flour (or a mix of whole wheat and white flour)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a large bowl, combine cereal, polenta, butter, salt, and honey. Pour in boiling water and stir to combine. Set aside to cool, which will probably take about 30 minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When mixture has cooled to lukewarm, it's time to get your yeast ready. Sprinkle yeast over 3 tablespoons of tepid water in a small bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat rye flour into cereal mixture. Stir in yeast, then add white and/or whole wheat flour, 1 cup at a time. Dough should be soft and sticky, but not so goopy that your hands turn into big gooey dough-paws when you try to knead it. Every batch will be different, depending on the humidity of the air and the moisture in your flour, but start with 3 cups, and save the remaining half-cup to sprinkle in as necessary while you knead. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. If you can, let dough rest for 10 minutes before kneading. This helps the flour begin absorbing the liquid in the dough, so you won't have to add so much extra flour to make it manageable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Push the dough away from you with the heels of your hands. Fold it over towards you. Turn it a quarter turn to the right, and repeat. Push, fold, turn, for about 10 minutes, adding small sprinkles of flour as needed to keep it from getting unbearably sticky. When well-kneaded, it should feel like a relaxed inner thigh, or a lady's un-Pilatized stomach. (If naked ladies aren't your frame of reference, a man's torso will do just fine, but imagine more bear than buff.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Drop the dough back in the bowl and cover with a damp towel. Let rise, preferably at around 70-75 degrees, for 3 to 5 hours, until doubled in bulk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Press down gently to get all the air out. Divide in half and shape into two round loaves. Set on a lightly greased or parchment-covered baking sheet and let rise until doubled in size, anywhere from 2 to 3 hours, possibly more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until crust is well-browned. To avoid gumminess, let cool on a rack for at least an hour before you tear into it. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "The Henri Bergson: Creative Evolution of a Sandwich",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Chicken-and-Egg-Salad.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken and Egg Salad\" title=\"Chicken and Egg Salad\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9571\">Which came first: the chicken salad or the egg salad? It's a question I'd never bothered to ask myself before this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until recently, I don't think I've ever much cared, since I've never considered myself much of a creamy, protein-based salad person: egg salad, chicken salad, tuna salad, you-name-it salad. Boring stuff, all of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So maybe I was wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to my friends, the Rosas, I have suddenly and quite firmly changed my mind. I developed a mad crush on \u003ca href=\"http://michaelprocopio.wordpress.com/2009/05/01/coronation-chicken-salad-fit-for-a-queen/\">Coronation chicken salad\u003c/a>, thanks to my friend Shannon's mother when she made them for a egg-and-chicken salad, Creationism, eggs salad, evolution, Henri Bergson, recipecharity tea party. More recently, my disdain for egg salad melted away amid the hungry cries of three members of the 10-and-under set. When their father, Craig, asked me if I could whip up some egg salad for the kids, I didn't bat an eye, though I realized that I had never before in my life thought to make such a thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a simple affair: hard boiled eggs, mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper. Uncomplicated, unfussy, and just the thing for three sometimes-fussy and anything-but-uncomplicated kids. And it was good-- it left me wanting more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Moral Pickle\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As my mind turned to thoughts of lunch for the week, I couldn't make up my mind as to whether I should make a batch of chicken salad or egg salad. The annoying old chestnut \"which came first, the chicken or the egg?\" came to mind? Frankly, I had no idea. It's a frustrating scientific/philosophic question that has no business complicating my luncheon plans. But I thought about it some more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/worms-eye-view.jpg\" alt=\"worms eye view\" title=\"worms eye view\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9572\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Now who are the people that believe that chickens came first?\" I thought. Creationists, of course. But then, I wondered, did the chickens of Eden actually lay eggs? What would be the purpose of that, apart from providing the occasional treat for Adam and Eve? Did the necessity of egg-laying or, at least, egg fertilization occur after The Fall? Were these chickens tainted with the mark of Original Sin along with the humans who caused all the trouble in the first place? These were questions I refused to answer on an empty stomach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/carton.jpg\" alt=\"carton\" title=\"carton\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9573\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And who falls into the egg-first camp?\" I wondered. I figured it must be the Evolutionists or, if one wants to be less 19th Century about it, Scientists. If I were to make a sandwich to please those who believe that all life on earth began with single-celled organisms which gradually evolved into more complex organisms like, oh, chickens, it seemed to me that I might want to start with a simpler, earlier version of the animal. In other words, eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a little overwhelmed by now and uncertain as to whether or not I should even bother with lunch at all-- I was losing my appetite. \"To hell with it,\" I thought, \"I'll just make a salad with chicken and egg and make everybody happy.\" I thought I might couch it as a Creative Evolution sort of thing. Of course, people have been trying to reconcile the two camps ever since Darwin came out with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On_the_Origin_of_Species\">that book of his\u003c/a> more than a century and a half ago. Some people are still trying. I'd like to think that, should the great minds belonging to each camp ever sit down together to try and hash things out, they might like to have this sandwich for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Egg-Yolk-Dressing.jpg\" alt=\"Egg Yolk Dressing\" title=\"Egg Yolk Dressing\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9574\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Henri Bergson\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes about 6 sandwiches\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sstrj15XpWQ\">Bergson\u003c/a>'s theory of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creative_Evolution_(book)\">Creative Evolution\u003c/a> doesn't really cut the mustard with scientists anymore. And it certainly doesn't give much in the way of time-of-day to the Creationists. But he coined the term which I borrowed, so he gets the sandwich. Besides, there was a certain élan vital-- a natural creative impulse (in this case, the need to please myself by the avoidance of inner conflict)-- that caused the evolution of this here sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When making this salad, I discovered, much to my own mayo-loving horror, that I had only about two tablespoons left of the stuff in my refrigerator. Hmm. And then it dawned on me: why on earth does one need to add mayonnaise to an egg salad, when it's already, well, so \u003cem>eggy\u003c/em>? What is mayonnaise anyhow but egg yolk, oil, acid, and a few other things? Necessity or, at least, an unwillingness to make an extra trip to the grocery store is the mother of culinary invention. And it's excellent for its purpose, in case you were wondering. I might never add mayo again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and the apple? Totally works, too. Though the apple isn't specifically mentioned in Genesis Garden of Eden story, neither is celery, with is more traditionally used for crunch in egg and/or chicken salads. And, well, I'm just not a huge fan of celery. In terms of Western mythologies, the apple is the traditional trouble maker. Think Adam and Eve, think Judgement of Paris. It's sexier and much, much tastier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 large eggs, hard boiled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 breasts of chicken or whatever other parts you prefer/have on hand, diced. I poached the bird pieces for this recipe, but bits of roasted chicken would work well, too. Just make sure to yield 1 1/2 to 2 cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 apple finely diced, your preference. Something sweet and tart, like a Pink Lady will do nicely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 5 tablespoons of olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juice and zest of one lemon (Meyer, in my case)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar (or more to taste)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A heavy pinch of salt (or two)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Capers (as many as you like)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chopped chives and dill for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground pepper, to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Peel and slice your hardboiled eggs lengthwise. If you haven't the faintest idea as to how you might properly hard boil an egg, you are not alone. To hard boil eggs for this recipe, place the eggs in a single layer at the bottom of a pan and cover with cold water. Bring water to a boil, then immediately turn off the heat and let sit for seven minutes. Run cold water over the eggs to cool down the hot water, then add ice to the pot to stop the cooking process entirely. Congratulations, you now hopefully have six hard boiled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Remove yolks from the whites of your eggs and place them in a medium-sized bowl. Chop egg whites and add to another, larger bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Mash yolks with a fork and to them add olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, and salt. No need to worry about emulsifying-- everything will blend together. And there's no need to worry about lumps-- it's an egg salad, for God's sake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add diced chicken, apples, capers, and lemon zest to the chopped egg whites and toss together. Now add the egg yolk dressing, chives, dill, and ground pepper. Mix until thoroughly combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. If you are not currently feeling rushed by the cries of cranky, hungry small children, you might want to let the salad sit in your refrigerator overnight. The results will charm the pants right off of you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. For best eating results, let salad warm for several minutes to shake the chill of refrigeration off its shoulder. So to speak, since it should be (hopefully) obvious to you that chopped salads do not, as a rule, have shoulders unless they have been molded to into the likeness of something with shoulders, in which case, it still wouldn't have shoulders, but merely looks as though it might have them. I think you know what I mean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Serve over lightly-dressed greens or between two slices of toasted, hearty bread, like pumpernickel (as shown above).\u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "As my mind turned to thoughts of lunch for the week, I couldn't make up my mind as to whether I should make a batch of chicken salad or egg salad. The annoying old chestnut \"which came first, the chicken or the egg?\" came to mind? Frankly, I had no idea. It's a frustrating scientific/philosophic question that has no business complicating my luncheon plans. But I thought about it some more.\r\n\r\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Chicken-and-Egg-Salad.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken and Egg Salad\" title=\"Chicken and Egg Salad\" width=\"350\" height=\"233\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9571\">Which came first: the chicken salad or the egg salad? It's a question I'd never bothered to ask myself before this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until recently, I don't think I've ever much cared, since I've never considered myself much of a creamy, protein-based salad person: egg salad, chicken salad, tuna salad, you-name-it salad. Boring stuff, all of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So maybe I was wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to my friends, the Rosas, I have suddenly and quite firmly changed my mind. I developed a mad crush on \u003ca href=\"http://michaelprocopio.wordpress.com/2009/05/01/coronation-chicken-salad-fit-for-a-queen/\">Coronation chicken salad\u003c/a>, thanks to my friend Shannon's mother when she made them for a egg-and-chicken salad, Creationism, eggs salad, evolution, Henri Bergson, recipecharity tea party. More recently, my disdain for egg salad melted away amid the hungry cries of three members of the 10-and-under set. When their father, Craig, asked me if I could whip up some egg salad for the kids, I didn't bat an eye, though I realized that I had never before in my life thought to make such a thing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a simple affair: hard boiled eggs, mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper. Uncomplicated, unfussy, and just the thing for three sometimes-fussy and anything-but-uncomplicated kids. And it was good-- it left me wanting more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Moral Pickle\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As my mind turned to thoughts of lunch for the week, I couldn't make up my mind as to whether I should make a batch of chicken salad or egg salad. The annoying old chestnut \"which came first, the chicken or the egg?\" came to mind? Frankly, I had no idea. It's a frustrating scientific/philosophic question that has no business complicating my luncheon plans. But I thought about it some more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/worms-eye-view.jpg\" alt=\"worms eye view\" title=\"worms eye view\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9572\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Now who are the people that believe that chickens came first?\" I thought. Creationists, of course. But then, I wondered, did the chickens of Eden actually lay eggs? What would be the purpose of that, apart from providing the occasional treat for Adam and Eve? Did the necessity of egg-laying or, at least, egg fertilization occur after The Fall? Were these chickens tainted with the mark of Original Sin along with the humans who caused all the trouble in the first place? These were questions I refused to answer on an empty stomach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/carton.jpg\" alt=\"carton\" title=\"carton\" width=\"224\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9573\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And who falls into the egg-first camp?\" I wondered. I figured it must be the Evolutionists or, if one wants to be less 19th Century about it, Scientists. If I were to make a sandwich to please those who believe that all life on earth began with single-celled organisms which gradually evolved into more complex organisms like, oh, chickens, it seemed to me that I might want to start with a simpler, earlier version of the animal. In other words, eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a little overwhelmed by now and uncertain as to whether or not I should even bother with lunch at all-- I was losing my appetite. \"To hell with it,\" I thought, \"I'll just make a salad with chicken and egg and make everybody happy.\" I thought I might couch it as a Creative Evolution sort of thing. Of course, people have been trying to reconcile the two camps ever since Darwin came out with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On_the_Origin_of_Species\">that book of his\u003c/a> more than a century and a half ago. Some people are still trying. I'd like to think that, should the great minds belonging to each camp ever sit down together to try and hash things out, they might like to have this sandwich for lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Egg-Yolk-Dressing.jpg\" alt=\"Egg Yolk Dressing\" title=\"Egg Yolk Dressing\" width=\"233\" height=\"350\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9574\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Henri Bergson\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Makes about 6 sandwiches\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sstrj15XpWQ\">Bergson\u003c/a>'s theory of \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creative_Evolution_(book)\">Creative Evolution\u003c/a> doesn't really cut the mustard with scientists anymore. And it certainly doesn't give much in the way of time-of-day to the Creationists. But he coined the term which I borrowed, so he gets the sandwich. Besides, there was a certain élan vital-- a natural creative impulse (in this case, the need to please myself by the avoidance of inner conflict)-- that caused the evolution of this here sandwich.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When making this salad, I discovered, much to my own mayo-loving horror, that I had only about two tablespoons left of the stuff in my refrigerator. Hmm. And then it dawned on me: why on earth does one need to add mayonnaise to an egg salad, when it's already, well, so \u003cem>eggy\u003c/em>? What is mayonnaise anyhow but egg yolk, oil, acid, and a few other things? Necessity or, at least, an unwillingness to make an extra trip to the grocery store is the mother of culinary invention. And it's excellent for its purpose, in case you were wondering. I might never add mayo again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and the apple? Totally works, too. Though the apple isn't specifically mentioned in Genesis Garden of Eden story, neither is celery, with is more traditionally used for crunch in egg and/or chicken salads. And, well, I'm just not a huge fan of celery. In terms of Western mythologies, the apple is the traditional trouble maker. Think Adam and Eve, think Judgement of Paris. It's sexier and much, much tastier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 large eggs, hard boiled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 breasts of chicken or whatever other parts you prefer/have on hand, diced. I poached the bird pieces for this recipe, but bits of roasted chicken would work well, too. Just make sure to yield 1 1/2 to 2 cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 apple finely diced, your preference. Something sweet and tart, like a Pink Lady will do nicely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 5 tablespoons of olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons dijon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The juice and zest of one lemon (Meyer, in my case)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon of apple cider vinegar (or more to taste)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A heavy pinch of salt (or two)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Capers (as many as you like)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chopped chives and dill for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground pepper, to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Peel and slice your hardboiled eggs lengthwise. If you haven't the faintest idea as to how you might properly hard boil an egg, you are not alone. To hard boil eggs for this recipe, place the eggs in a single layer at the bottom of a pan and cover with cold water. Bring water to a boil, then immediately turn off the heat and let sit for seven minutes. Run cold water over the eggs to cool down the hot water, then add ice to the pot to stop the cooking process entirely. Congratulations, you now hopefully have six hard boiled eggs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Remove yolks from the whites of your eggs and place them in a medium-sized bowl. Chop egg whites and add to another, larger bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Mash yolks with a fork and to them add olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, and salt. No need to worry about emulsifying-- everything will blend together. And there's no need to worry about lumps-- it's an egg salad, for God's sake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add diced chicken, apples, capers, and lemon zest to the chopped egg whites and toss together. Now add the egg yolk dressing, chives, dill, and ground pepper. Mix until thoroughly combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. If you are not currently feeling rushed by the cries of cranky, hungry small children, you might want to let the salad sit in your refrigerator overnight. The results will charm the pants right off of you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. For best eating results, let salad warm for several minutes to shake the chill of refrigeration off its shoulder. So to speak, since it should be (hopefully) obvious to you that chopped salads do not, as a rule, have shoulders unless they have been molded to into the likeness of something with shoulders, in which case, it still wouldn't have shoulders, but merely looks as though it might have them. I think you know what I mean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Serve over lightly-dressed greens or between two slices of toasted, hearty bread, like pumpernickel (as shown above).\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Marisma Fish Tacos",
"title": "Marisma Fish Tacos",
"headTitle": "Bay Area Bites | KQED Food",
"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Marisma2.jpg\" alt=\"Marisma\" title=\"Marisma\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9537\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just took a vacation where the food was so uninspired and mediocre I wanted to weep each day over my plate. It was one of those \"family obligation\" vacations. You know the kind. Where a family member insists everyone spend their hard-earned vacation time and money at a destination where she/he wants to go. This family member insists you'll all love it, but you don't. You can't really complain out loud, because your beloved family member is so pleased that everyone is together in seeming harmony at their very special holiday spot, that you choke back your snarky comments. So while you sit miserably and snicker with your partner over the faults of the locale, the family member who convinced everyone to go is having the time of her life. Thankfully my very special persuasive family member doesn't read my BAB posts, so I can fully vent here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now although I had never actually set foot on a cruise ship before December 26 of this year -- yes, that's the very special holiday location -- I always knew I never wanted to take a cruise. My information on this type of vacation was limited, mainly culled from Love Boat episodes and those awful Carnival Cruise Line commercials where everyone is partying down. But I am not a party-down-on-a-cruise-ship type of person. When I go on vacation, I like to explore places I've never visited or return to locations I love: ambling into small family restaurants and town squares, sitting on park benches while I watch locals meander by, romping with my kids, and investigating trails and roads previously unknown. I enjoy strolling through museums, watching local theater, wandering around national parks, and chatting with people I normally wouldn't meet. I also like to sometimes just quietly read my book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, let's just say that my vacation wasn't quite what I would have planned had I been persuasive enough to convince my family where to vacation this holiday season. I will discuss the food on my own private Love Boat in another post -- as I just can't muster up the energy to rehash it now -- but this week I want to talk about something amazing I ate while away. It's the beginning of a new year, and I have warm and fuzzy thoughts of being less negative (we'll see if I can carry this through to February), so I want to start off with a post about something delicious. Luckily, in the midst of all that cruise ship hubbub, we found one truly amazing meal, and of course it was on land.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/A-little-music-at-Marisa.jpg\" alt=\"A little music at Marisa\" title=\"A little music at Marisa\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9538\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After three days at sea, our enormous polluting ship sailed into beautiful Puerto Vallarta. While the rest of our group took off to the jungle to zip line for a couple of hours, my family and I taxied downtown to meet fellow Babber \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a> (who just happened to be staying an hour away) and her husband Keith (looking very tall and Scottish in the Mexican sun). Now although I usually research restaurants before I leave for vacation, I must admit that I failed to do so this time around. Maybe it was because our time in each port was limited to a few hours, or maybe it was due to my resentment at having to go on a cruise. Whatever the case, I was remiss. Luckily Kim is a much better woman than I. Before taking a taxi to meet us, she had researched the perfect place to eat fish tacos while visiting the beautiful \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi1383006233/\">Night of the Iguana\u003c/a> location city of Puerto Vallarta. So while the other tourists made their way to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bubbagump.com/locations/puerto_vallarta.html\">Bubba Gump Shrimp Company\u003c/a> (there really is one of those in every seaside tourist town) our group meandered about 8 blocks away from the crowded boardwalk and into the city where we found a small aluminum taco cart called Marisma Fish Taco (yes, I realize \"Marisma Fish Tacos\" sounds more catchy, but the sign left off that last \"s\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marisma is the type of eating establishment I dream of finding while on vacation. With locals crowding the few stools available to taste the pleasures of its fried fish, smoked marlin and shrimp tacos, it's the real deal. Marisma, from what I understand with my limited Spanish, is the lovely woman who runs it all and I am witness to the fact that she and the other women who work there are masters at making Baja-style tacos. While orders are being taken and patrons eat at the counter or at the few tables set up on the neighboring sidewalk, one lovely young woman continually pulls handfuls of masa from a small mountain of the stuff and grills freshly-made tortillas while another woman, who I think is Marisma, cooks and runs the show behind her. And here they are...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are salsas set up on the counter, red and green with just the right amount of spice, but the real show stopper is the chile and onion compote set in large glass goblets. This mixture -- picante, tangy, and sweet all at the same time -- is the perfect accompaniment to the fish taco, or really anything for that matter. I wish I had some to slather on my chicken at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/smoked-marlin-taco.jpg\" alt=\"smoked marlin taco\" title=\"smoked marlin taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9540\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you taste those tacos you know why, in a city full of food, people stand in line for their lunch here. I started with the smoked marlin taco, which is served in a gorgeous red sauce that wakes up the tongue and makes it dance. I then went on to the house specialty: fish tacos. These are, in essence, perfect. Dorado covered in the simplest of batters, fried until golden, crisp and beautiful and then set inside a tortilla fresh off the grill with a topping of crema and cabbage. After days of heavily sauced mediocrity on board the ship, my taste buds sighed in relief. I devoured the first taco in a few seconds, so then had to order another one, pacing myself so I could slowly enjoy the flavors. While listening to a man strum on the guitar nearby, I marveled at how such simple ingredients could coalesce to create the perfect taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/fish-taco.jpg\" alt=\"fish taco\" title=\"fish taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9539\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chatted with the nice man beside me. He had grown up in Puerto Vallarta and ate at Marisma a few times a week. At 13 pesos a taco (about one U.S. dollar) it was a bargain for both tourists and locals alike. Kim and Keith treated my family to our feast, which came out to about $20 for the six of us, which included sodas. Thanks, Laidlaws!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After returning to our ship that evening, my family and I talked glowingly of our lunch that day. While tuxedoed waiters flitted about us, serving us a very forgettable meal on china plates, our thoughts were with those fish tacos. \u003cem>Yo sueño con Marisma Fish Taco\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nMarisma Fish Taco\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n320 Calle Naranjo\u003cbr>\nPuerto Vallarta\u003cbr>\nMexico. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"excerpt": "Once you taste those tacos you know why, in a city full of food, people stand in line for their lunch here. I started with the smoked marlin taco, which is served in a gorgeous red sauce that wakes up the tongue and makes it dance. I then went on to the house specialty: fish tacos. These are, in essence, perfect. Dorado covered in the simplest of batters, fried to perfection and then set inside a tortilla fresh off the grill with a topping of crema and cabbage. ",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/Marisma2.jpg\" alt=\"Marisma\" title=\"Marisma\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9537\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just took a vacation where the food was so uninspired and mediocre I wanted to weep each day over my plate. It was one of those \"family obligation\" vacations. You know the kind. Where a family member insists everyone spend their hard-earned vacation time and money at a destination where she/he wants to go. This family member insists you'll all love it, but you don't. You can't really complain out loud, because your beloved family member is so pleased that everyone is together in seeming harmony at their very special holiday spot, that you choke back your snarky comments. So while you sit miserably and snicker with your partner over the faults of the locale, the family member who convinced everyone to go is having the time of her life. Thankfully my very special persuasive family member doesn't read my BAB posts, so I can fully vent here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now although I had never actually set foot on a cruise ship before December 26 of this year -- yes, that's the very special holiday location -- I always knew I never wanted to take a cruise. My information on this type of vacation was limited, mainly culled from Love Boat episodes and those awful Carnival Cruise Line commercials where everyone is partying down. But I am not a party-down-on-a-cruise-ship type of person. When I go on vacation, I like to explore places I've never visited or return to locations I love: ambling into small family restaurants and town squares, sitting on park benches while I watch locals meander by, romping with my kids, and investigating trails and roads previously unknown. I enjoy strolling through museums, watching local theater, wandering around national parks, and chatting with people I normally wouldn't meet. I also like to sometimes just quietly read my book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, let's just say that my vacation wasn't quite what I would have planned had I been persuasive enough to convince my family where to vacation this holiday season. I will discuss the food on my own private Love Boat in another post -- as I just can't muster up the energy to rehash it now -- but this week I want to talk about something amazing I ate while away. It's the beginning of a new year, and I have warm and fuzzy thoughts of being less negative (we'll see if I can carry this through to February), so I want to start off with a post about something delicious. Luckily, in the midst of all that cruise ship hubbub, we found one truly amazing meal, and of course it was on land.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/A-little-music-at-Marisa.jpg\" alt=\"A little music at Marisa\" title=\"A little music at Marisa\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9538\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After three days at sea, our enormous polluting ship sailed into beautiful Puerto Vallarta. While the rest of our group took off to the jungle to zip line for a couple of hours, my family and I taxied downtown to meet fellow Babber \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a> (who just happened to be staying an hour away) and her husband Keith (looking very tall and Scottish in the Mexican sun). Now although I usually research restaurants before I leave for vacation, I must admit that I failed to do so this time around. Maybe it was because our time in each port was limited to a few hours, or maybe it was due to my resentment at having to go on a cruise. Whatever the case, I was remiss. Luckily Kim is a much better woman than I. Before taking a taxi to meet us, she had researched the perfect place to eat fish tacos while visiting the beautiful \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi1383006233/\">Night of the Iguana\u003c/a> location city of Puerto Vallarta. So while the other tourists made their way to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bubbagump.com/locations/puerto_vallarta.html\">Bubba Gump Shrimp Company\u003c/a> (there really is one of those in every seaside tourist town) our group meandered about 8 blocks away from the crowded boardwalk and into the city where we found a small aluminum taco cart called Marisma Fish Taco (yes, I realize \"Marisma Fish Tacos\" sounds more catchy, but the sign left off that last \"s\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marisma is the type of eating establishment I dream of finding while on vacation. With locals crowding the few stools available to taste the pleasures of its fried fish, smoked marlin and shrimp tacos, it's the real deal. Marisma, from what I understand with my limited Spanish, is the lovely woman who runs it all and I am witness to the fact that she and the other women who work there are masters at making Baja-style tacos. While orders are being taken and patrons eat at the counter or at the few tables set up on the neighboring sidewalk, one lovely young woman continually pulls handfuls of masa from a small mountain of the stuff and grills freshly-made tortillas while another woman, who I think is Marisma, cooks and runs the show behind her. And here they are...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/Ry0j9MU0nAE&hl=en_US&fs=1&\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are salsas set up on the counter, red and green with just the right amount of spice, but the real show stopper is the chile and onion compote set in large glass goblets. This mixture -- picante, tangy, and sweet all at the same time -- is the perfect accompaniment to the fish taco, or really anything for that matter. I wish I had some to slather on my chicken at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/smoked-marlin-taco.jpg\" alt=\"smoked marlin taco\" title=\"smoked marlin taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9540\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you taste those tacos you know why, in a city full of food, people stand in line for their lunch here. I started with the smoked marlin taco, which is served in a gorgeous red sauce that wakes up the tongue and makes it dance. I then went on to the house specialty: fish tacos. These are, in essence, perfect. Dorado covered in the simplest of batters, fried until golden, crisp and beautiful and then set inside a tortilla fresh off the grill with a topping of crema and cabbage. After days of heavily sauced mediocrity on board the ship, my taste buds sighed in relief. I devoured the first taco in a few seconds, so then had to order another one, pacing myself so I could slowly enjoy the flavors. While listening to a man strum on the guitar nearby, I marveled at how such simple ingredients could coalesce to create the perfect taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/fish-taco.jpg\" alt=\"fish taco\" title=\"fish taco\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9539\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chatted with the nice man beside me. He had grown up in Puerto Vallarta and ate at Marisma a few times a week. At 13 pesos a taco (about one U.S. dollar) it was a bargain for both tourists and locals alike. Kim and Keith treated my family to our feast, which came out to about $20 for the six of us, which included sodas. Thanks, Laidlaws!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After returning to our ship that evening, my family and I talked glowingly of our lunch that day. While tuxedoed waiters flitted about us, serving us a very forgettable meal on china plates, our thoughts were with those fish tacos. \u003cem>Yo sueño con Marisma Fish Taco\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nMarisma Fish Taco\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n320 Calle Naranjo\u003cbr>\nPuerto Vallarta\u003cbr>\nMexico. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"disqusTitle": "Soup of the Evening, Beautiful Soup",
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"content": "\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/broccoli-soup500.jpg\" alt=\"Curried Broccoli Soup photo by David Rodwin\" title=\"Curried Broccoli and Greens Soup photo by David Rodwin\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9452\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Curried Broccoli and Greens Soup. Photo by David Rodwin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nBeautiful Soup, so rich and green,\u003cbr>\nWaiting in a hot tureen!\u003cbr>\nWho for such dainties would not stoop?\u003cbr>\nSoup of the evening, beautiful Soup!\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You wouldn't necessarily want to follow Alice in Wonderland's diet (at least outside the environs of Burning Man) but Lewis Carroll had it right with this paean to the steamiest, best food of winter. And it's a good reminder that broccoli and greens, cold weather's staples, can come to the table in another guise besides the endlessly repeated cycle of steamed, steamed, stir-fried, and steamed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carroll doesn't mention curry powder, but he should. Yes, that old pantry staple, yellow and dependable in its plastic jar or shiny little tin. You might even be embarrassed by its ongoing presence in your spice drawer, proof that you haven't graduated to six different regional garam masalas, aromatic evidence that you're not spending these long dark nights grinding your own fenugreek. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But really, a good spice mix is always a handy thing. Even when you know your idlis from your dosas, there's something comforting about the familiarity of that standard supermarket blend. For me, the smell instantly transports me back to the gourmet takeout shops of the '80s, where I earned my college-summer paychecks by mixing up big plastic tubs of curried chicken salad, dicing an endless parade of chicken breasts, glopping in the mayonnaise and sour cream, scooping in mango chutney and raisins and then adding curry powder until the whole bowlful turned a vivid Sahara yellow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or you might remember M.F.K. Fisher's famous story of \"Hindoo Eggs,\" wherein the young Mary Frances, desperate for a little exoticism to liven up her grandmother's Spartan table, tripled the amount of curry powder used to flavor a white sauce poured over hard-boiled eggs. For a palate reared on bland boiled everything, the result was inedibly fiery; still, out of stubbornness and loyalty, M.F.K. and her sister ate until blisters rose up on their lips and tongues. They finished the meal by sitting on the edge of the bathtub with their mouths full of mineral oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But my curry-powder favorite is adapted from yet another foolproof and delicious recipe in Laurie Colwin's second volume of food essays, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060955317/kqedorg-20\"> More Home Cooking\u003c/a>. Her version is so easy as to be almost laughable, and yet you could eat it any day of the week and be very happy. Potatoes, broccoli, and a garlic clove are simmered in chicken stock until tender. Curry powder and a little orange rind are added, and the whole thing is tipped into the blender and buzzed to a warming, healthy puree. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All very well, but it hardly takes any more effort to give it a little finesse. Sauteing the curry power with onion gives depth and mellowness while softening the raw bite of the spices. A squeeze of orange juice brings freshness (and vitamins). And cooking the potato almost all the way through, then adding your broccoli (and a handful of whatever greens are languishing in the fridge or winter garden) keeps your bowlful more verdant green than sludgy khaki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Curried Broccoli and Greens Soup\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis soup also keeps and freezes well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large or 2 fist-sized potatoes, scrubbed and cut into chunks\u003cbr>\n4 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003cbr>\n1 onion, peeled and sliced thinly\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp butter, olive, or vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n2 tsp curry powder, or to taste\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\ngrated rind and juice of 1 orange\u003cbr>\n1 head broccoli, stalks peeled and chopped, flowerets broken into pieces\u003cbr>\n1 handful watercress or arugula\u003cbr>\n2 cups water, or as needed\u003cbr>\nYogurt or sour cream for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a medium saucepan, cover potato chunks with chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat until potato is just tender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. While potato is cooking, saute sliced onion in butter or oil over medium heat until translucent but not browned. Add curry powder, garlic and orange rind and cook, stirring, for another minute. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When potato is tender, add curried onion mixture, broccoli, greens, water, and salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer until broccoli is very tender. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Add orange juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using a blender or immersion blender, puree mixture until smooth, adding water as necessary if soup seems too thick. Reheat to serve. Top each bowlful with a spoonful of yogurt, if desired. \u003c/p>\n\n",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/broccoli-soup500.jpg\" alt=\"Curried Broccoli Soup photo by David Rodwin\" title=\"Curried Broccoli and Greens Soup photo by David Rodwin\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-9452\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Curried Broccoli and Greens Soup. Photo by David Rodwin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nBeautiful Soup, so rich and green,\u003cbr>\nWaiting in a hot tureen!\u003cbr>\nWho for such dainties would not stoop?\u003cbr>\nSoup of the evening, beautiful Soup!\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You wouldn't necessarily want to follow Alice in Wonderland's diet (at least outside the environs of Burning Man) but Lewis Carroll had it right with this paean to the steamiest, best food of winter. And it's a good reminder that broccoli and greens, cold weather's staples, can come to the table in another guise besides the endlessly repeated cycle of steamed, steamed, stir-fried, and steamed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carroll doesn't mention curry powder, but he should. Yes, that old pantry staple, yellow and dependable in its plastic jar or shiny little tin. You might even be embarrassed by its ongoing presence in your spice drawer, proof that you haven't graduated to six different regional garam masalas, aromatic evidence that you're not spending these long dark nights grinding your own fenugreek. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But really, a good spice mix is always a handy thing. Even when you know your idlis from your dosas, there's something comforting about the familiarity of that standard supermarket blend. For me, the smell instantly transports me back to the gourmet takeout shops of the '80s, where I earned my college-summer paychecks by mixing up big plastic tubs of curried chicken salad, dicing an endless parade of chicken breasts, glopping in the mayonnaise and sour cream, scooping in mango chutney and raisins and then adding curry powder until the whole bowlful turned a vivid Sahara yellow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>",
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"content": "\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or you might remember M.F.K. Fisher's famous story of \"Hindoo Eggs,\" wherein the young Mary Frances, desperate for a little exoticism to liven up her grandmother's Spartan table, tripled the amount of curry powder used to flavor a white sauce poured over hard-boiled eggs. For a palate reared on bland boiled everything, the result was inedibly fiery; still, out of stubbornness and loyalty, M.F.K. and her sister ate until blisters rose up on their lips and tongues. They finished the meal by sitting on the edge of the bathtub with their mouths full of mineral oil. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But my curry-powder favorite is adapted from yet another foolproof and delicious recipe in Laurie Colwin's second volume of food essays, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060955317/kqedorg-20\"> More Home Cooking\u003c/a>. Her version is so easy as to be almost laughable, and yet you could eat it any day of the week and be very happy. Potatoes, broccoli, and a garlic clove are simmered in chicken stock until tender. Curry powder and a little orange rind are added, and the whole thing is tipped into the blender and buzzed to a warming, healthy puree. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All very well, but it hardly takes any more effort to give it a little finesse. Sauteing the curry power with onion gives depth and mellowness while softening the raw bite of the spices. A squeeze of orange juice brings freshness (and vitamins). And cooking the potato almost all the way through, then adding your broccoli (and a handful of whatever greens are languishing in the fridge or winter garden) keeps your bowlful more verdant green than sludgy khaki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Curried Broccoli and Greens Soup\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis soup also keeps and freezes well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large or 2 fist-sized potatoes, scrubbed and cut into chunks\u003cbr>\n4 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003cbr>\n1 onion, peeled and sliced thinly\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp butter, olive, or vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n2 tsp curry powder, or to taste\u003cbr>\n2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003cbr>\ngrated rind and juice of 1 orange\u003cbr>\n1 head broccoli, stalks peeled and chopped, flowerets broken into pieces\u003cbr>\n1 handful watercress or arugula\u003cbr>\n2 cups water, or as needed\u003cbr>\nYogurt or sour cream for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a medium saucepan, cover potato chunks with chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat until potato is just tender. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. While potato is cooking, saute sliced onion in butter or oil over medium heat until translucent but not browned. Add curry powder, garlic and orange rind and cook, stirring, for another minute. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When potato is tender, add curried onion mixture, broccoli, greens, water, and salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer until broccoli is very tender. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Add orange juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using a blender or immersion blender, puree mixture until smooth, adding water as necessary if soup seems too thick. Reheat to serve. Top each bowlful with a spoonful of yogurt, if desired. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>",
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"info": "What kind of no sabo word is Hyphenación? For us, it’s about living within a hyphenation. Like being a third-gen Mexican-American from the Texas border now living that Bay Area Chicano life. Like Xorje! Each week we bring together a couple of hyphenated Latinos to talk all about personal life choices: family, careers, relationships, belonging … everything is on the table. ",
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"info": "Our flagship program, helmed by Kai Ryssdal, examines what the day in money delivered, through stories, conversations, newsworthy numbers and more. Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.",
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"info": "The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>",
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"info": "For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?",
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"info": "Political Breakdown is a new series that explores the political intersection of California and the nation. Each week hosts Scott Shafer and Marisa Lagos are joined with a new special guest to unpack politics -- with personality — and offer an insider’s glimpse at how politics happens.",
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"possible": {
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"title": "Possible",
"info": "Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.",
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"radiolab": {
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},
"rightnowish": {
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"title": "Rightnowish",
"tagline": "Art is where you find it",
"info": "Rightnowish digs into life in the Bay Area right now… ish. Journalist Pendarvis Harshaw takes us to galleries painted on the sides of liquor stores in West Oakland. We'll dance in warehouses in the Bayview, make smoothies with kids in South Berkeley, and listen to classical music in a 1984 Cutlass Supreme in Richmond. Every week, Pen talks to movers and shakers about how the Bay Area shapes what they create, and how they shape the place we call home.",
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"tagline": "Real stories with killer beats",
"info": "The Snap Judgment radio show and podcast mixes real stories with killer beats to produce cinematic, dramatic radio. Snap's musical brand of storytelling dares listeners to see the world through the eyes of another. This is storytelling... with a BEAT!! Snap first aired on public radio stations nationwide in July 2010. Today, Snap Judgment airs on over 450 public radio stations and is brought to the airwaves by KQED & PRX.",
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"soldout": {
"id": "soldout",
"title": "SOLD OUT: Rethinking Housing in America",
"tagline": "A new future for housing",
"info": "Sold Out: Rethinking Housing in America",
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